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INSTRUCTION MANUAL
FOR
BLACKSTONE
E" MARK 2 RANGE DIESEL ENGINES
5, 6, 8, AND 9 CYLINDERS
The manuals supplied with each engine bear the serial number of that particular engine.
A copy supplied subsequently may be a later edition. Technical information and spare
part numbers should, therefore, be taken from the original manuals if possible. The
parts list is a separate volume.
The drawing(s) sent with the engine should be kept for future reference, as part numbers
quoted thereon will not be found in the parts list but may eventually be required for
ordering spares. Marine engines - drawings showing emergency running systems
must be kept available for immediate reference in case of emergency.
LIST OF SECTIONS
See contents list at the beginning of each section. See also detailed index -
Section 19
3. FUEL SYSTEM
4. LUBRICATING SYSTEM
5. COOLING SYSTEM
13. TORQUES
14. INSTALLATION
19. INDEX
INTRODUCTION
SECTION CONTENTS
1.1. GENERAL REMARKS
1.2 ENGINE MAINTENANCE AND OVERHAUL
1.3 HEALTH AND SAFTEY - (General Hazards And Precautions To Be Taken)
1.4 HEALTH AND SAFETY - VITON FLUORELASTOMER
1.1. GENERAL REMARKS
This instruction manual and the corresponding parts list, covering the ESL MK 2 : 5,6,8
and 9 cylinder engine, assume the following main features as standard, and where any
variation has been incorporated in the engine build, the instructions must be read
accordingly:-
Standard rotation right hand engine with air starting (through the cylinders); wet sump,
cooling by heat exchanger and oil cooler, with raw water to the intercooler; turbocharger
at the free end. Industrial and marine auxiliary engines have constant speed governors,
whilst marine propulsion engines have variable speed governors.
The cylinders are always numbered beginning with number 1 at the flywheel end.
Standard direction of crankshaft rotation is clockwise, looking on the free end of the
engine. Reverse rotation engines have an 'R' at the end of the engine number on the
Data Plate.
Engines are built with the camshaft and controls on the right hand side of the engine as
viewed from the free end, the controls being situated at the flywheel end.
In the text of the manual, unless stated otherwise, general instructions apply to all
engines: details for specific features apply only where the particular part/assembly is
fitted. Certain stages of the installation procedure for industrial engines are necessarily
different from those for marine engines Accordingly both procedures have been given,
even though this has involved some repetition of instructions. The remainder of the
book applies to both industrial and marine engines unless stated otherwise.
There are two versions of this engine available. The first is on distillate fuel at 17.5 bar
(254 lb.ft/Sq in) bmep alternatively it may be operated on heavy or residual fuels when
additional equipment is provided (mostly external)
In general the developed power may be calculated from the expressions:
kW= P.N.n kilowatt or (bhp = P.N.n )
105.9 1145.3
where P = bmep std 17.5 bar (254 lb/sq.in)
N = 750, 900, 1000 rpm nominal speed
n = 5, 6, 8, 9 cylinders
In every case, however the rated output for each engine, when delivered from the works,
is given on the rating plate mounted on the cam-side of the engine base It is defined by
the brake mean effective pressure (B.M.E.P.) rating in 'bars' and is effectively the power
available at or below the site conditions pertaining at the point of operation. If the site
conditions exceed these shown on the rating plate then the site power developed may
vary depending upon altitude ambient temperature and humidity excesses in
accordance with British Standard No. 5514.
No variation should be made to the engine build which could in any way affect the
torsional, heat dissipation, stress or other characteristics of the engine without our prior
agreement. A constant speed engine on other than A.C generating duty should be run
only at the specified operation speed.
Small differences may be noted between the descriptions given in this manual and the
engine as received, due to refinements introduced since publication. Where - to met
client's requirements - an engine is supplied incorporating non-standard
components, the relative information given in this manual may not apply.
Every engine is built with care and skill, and thoroughly tested before leaving the Works.
It still needs proper installation, and thereafter care, cleanliness and regular
maintenance will help to ensure a long and trouble-free life. This book has been
compiled to assist the operator to look after the engine, by giving detailed information
where it is likely to be needed, assuming that the operator will at all times and in all
matters follow good engineering practice. No responsibility can be accepted by
Mirrlees Blackstone Limited for misunderstandings or misinterpretation of any
information, nor for the manner in which the instructions are observed or any
consequence thereof.
We shall be pleased to answer questions or give advice on problems regarding the
running and maintenance of your engine at any time.
2. Before any servicing operation is undertaken during which the accidental movement of
'working parts' could be dangerous to the operator or cause damage to the engine, the
starting air (or electric) supply should be positively disconnected, (and not just turned
off by a valve or switch which could be operated by mistake).
3. Certain operations such as cleaning heat exchangers and oil coolers on marine
installations should be carried out on shore.
4. Before using the torque wrench kit for any of the tightening operations, the setting of the
wrench must be checked, and if necessary, adjusted Also, when using an adaptor, the
appropriate (reduced) torque MUST be used, to give the correct torque on the nut/bolt
itself. Failure to do this can result in serious over-stressing or incorrect tightening of
bolts. When in use, the torque wrench must be grasped at the hand grip and not part
way down the handle. Threads in nuts and on screws should be lubricated with clean
engine oil before fixing unless stated otherwise. Screw threads are to metric standards.
5. Where electrical generators or control gear embody solid state equipment (diodes,
timers, detectors, etc) no flash/insulation tests should be made unless the solid state
components have first been disconnected and removed.
6. Latest engines are supplied with cam and crankcase door joints made in round section
rubber substance. When removing the doors during inspection and overhaul, avoid if
possible removing the joints which might suffer undue stretching. In any case try to
ensure the joints are in their original positions when replacing the doors.
Sets of joints, etc., are available as follows:
Set of Decarbonising Joints
Comprehensive Set of Joints
Set of Joints for removing /refitting one cylinder head
Set of spares to 'Survey' requirements
Set of springs
Contingency spares -List of suggested spares to provide either a basic back-up (`1st
level') or a more comprehensive back-up (`2nd level')
Consumables - List of anticipated needs can be compiled for period of running
stipulated by user.
1.3. HEALTH AND SAFETY - (General Hazards And Precautions To Be Taken):
Moving Parts - the engine should not be run with guards and covers removed, unless
specified in a servicing task.
Isolate the air-start system, prevent the driven equipment from turning the engine (if
applicable) and set the control lever to 'STOP' before working on any moving parts and
before barring the engine over.
Engine Side Covers - these should not be removed for at least 10 minutes after the
engine has stopped running.
Noise - engine noise can damage hearing. All personnel should wear ear protectors
when close to a running engine.
Heat - parts of the engine become very hot during running, e.g. exhaust system, air
inlet system, and should not be handled. All heat shields must be in position whilst the
engine is running, unless specified in a servicing task.
Lifting - many engine components are heavy and may cause injury if dropped or
incorrectly lifted. Lifting equipment should be inspected before use and its safe
operating load must not be exceeded. Care must be taken to support adequately parts
to be lifted, whether by crane or by hand. A list of the weights of the major components is
given on page 2-2. Working beneath suspended loads is dangerous. If it is
unavoidable, however, the load should be additionally supported by an independent
means.
Spillages - oil or fuel spillages present a fire hazard and can make surfaces slippery;
they should be cleaned up immediately.
HIGH PRESSURE FLUIDS AND GASES - (Fuel Injection System and Air Start
Systems). If misused, there is a danger of high pressure fluid or gas being injected into
the body through the skin (if this should occur, seek immediately medical attention). Do
not connect, disconnect or attempt to rectify any of these systems whilst pressurised,
unless specified in a servicing procedure (e.g. bleeding the fuel injection system). In this
case, wear protective clothing, goggles and gloves and keep any high pressure flow
clear of all parts of the body. When using the hydraulic pack, ensure that the flexible
hoses are not trapped, stretched or kinked, or they may be weakened. This can lead to
component failure.
Cleaning Agents - Always Follow Manufacturers Instructions Carefully
Upon advice from the manufacturer the following has been prepared in respect to the
safety precautions required when this material is utilised on various seals, gaskets and
'O' rings.
Viton, as used in manufacturing various seals, gaskets and 'O' rings fitted to the above
range of Mirrlees engines is a Fluorelastomer i.e. a synthetic, rubber-like material.
During normal use and under conditions for which they have been designed these seals
are perfectly safe and have an adequate service life. However, it has been noted that
should such seals be exposed to temperatures in excess of 316 degrees Celsius, (600
degrees Fahrenheit) the material does not burn, but goes into a process of
The level of water content needed to form hydrofluoric acid may vary from water present
in the atmosphere to the amount obtained from a major leak of a cooling system or to the
ultimate the volume of water required to extinguish a fire.
THIS ACID IS HIGHLY CORROSIVE and extremely difficult to remove if it comes into
contact with the skin.
Should it be necessary to dismantle any engine components that have been subjected
to temperatures in excess of 3150C (6000F) then the condition of the gaskets and 'O'
rings should be closely visually examined to determine if the seals have decomposed. If
decomposition has taken place the seals will be charred in appearance or may have
changed to a black sticky mass.
DO NOT touch any component until such procedures have been implemented and the
area considered safe.
It should be noted that all seals used in the engine are not exposed to high temperatures
in normal operation and may be expected to be found in harmless and satisfactory
condition except where abnormal temperature conditions have existed.
NOTE:
Neither natural rubber or nitrile rubber seals present any such hazard and are,
therefore, not subject to the previous procedures.
It is possible that the evolved acid may be neutralised following contact with meĆ
tallic components of the engine as the acid strength will dissipate as it attacks the
metal.
1.5. SYMPTOMS
. Coughing
. Choking
. Fever
. Cough
. Chest tightness
. Pulmonary edema (congestion)
. Bronchial pneumonia
c) Skin Contact
1.6. TREATMENT
a) Inhalation
Remove to fresh air and obtain medical supportive treatment immediately. Treat for
pulmonary edema.
b) Skin Contact
ii) Irrigate the affected areas with clean, running water for at least fifteen minutes
iii) Liberal applications of 2% calcium gluconate gel to be massaged into the affected
areas for at least fifteen minutes or until medical assistance becomes available.
c) Eye Contact
Wash/irrigate eyes immediately with water followed by a solution for 30-60 minutes.
Obtain immediate medical attention.
The manufacturer of Viton has issued the following guideĆlines in respect to ViĆ
ton and this is repeated as:
Fine dust resulting from the grinding or abrading of raw VITON polymer or products
made from it can generate toxic decomposition products if burned. Operators engaged
in grinding or abrading vulcanizate of VITON should be cautioned to avoid
contaminating smoking materials with the fine dust. Smoking in such work areas should
be prohibited. Workers should also be advised to wash their hands thoroughly before
smoking anywhere. Inhalation of dust particles should be avoided. As with all grinding
operations, respirators and safety goggles should be worn and adequate ventilation
should be used.
present since their effect on decomposition cannot be predicted. Therefore, the use or
testing of vulcanizate of VITON above the range of initial exotherm
(310-3250C)/(590-6170F) or in other media, is not recommended unless effective
precautions are taken to protect personnel from exposure to the fumes. It is the
responsibility of the part manufacturer and the end user to determine whether a specific
application is safe, particularly at temperatures above 3160C/6000F.
NOTE: The foregoing applies only to parts made from conventional FKM type fluoĆ
relastomer. It does not apply to parts made from Du Pont Teflon fluorocarbon resin
or KALREZ perfluoroelastomer, which have different high temperature properties.
TECHNICAL DATA
SECTION CONTENTS
2.1. READY REFERENCE DATA
2.2. APPROXIMATE WEIGHT OF THE LARGER COMPONENTS
2.1. READY REFERENCE DATA
kg lb
Flywheel 1016 x 152.5mm (40" x 6") 516 1135
1016 x 203mm (40" x 8") 658 1449
1016 x 292mm (40" x 11.5") 1032 2270
Turbocharger complete VTR 200 (Brown Boveri) 187 410
VTR 250 (Brown Boveri) 354 780
Cylinder Head complete 97 214
Free End Cover 141 311
Cylinder housing (bare) 5 cyl 1523 3351
9 cyl
FUEL SYSTEM
SECTION CONTENTS
3.1. FUEL FILTER
3.2. FILTER CHANGEOVER VALVE
3.3. DESCRIPTION OF THE FUEL SYSTEM
3.4. FUEL MANIFOLDS
3.5. FUEL PUMP
3.6. FUEL PUMP CONTROL LINKAGE AND OVERLOAD STOP ADJUSTMENT
3.7. FUEL PUMP TIMING
3.8. INJECTOR
3.9. FUEL OIL SPECIFICATION (DISTILLATE FUELS)
RELEVANT SPECIFICATION LIMITS - FUEL OIL
3.10.OPERATION OF ENGINE ON HEAVY - RESIDUAL - FUEL,
WHEN FITTED WITH SPECIALISED EQUIPMENT
3.11.SUITABLE RESIDUAL FUEL
3.12.ENGINE EFFICIENCY
3.1. FUEL FILTER
2) The fuel must be entirely free from foreign matter as it enters the engine otherwise
excessive wear will take place, particularly in the fuel injection system. On marine
engines a duplex filter is fitted and the changeover from one bowl to the other can be
made whilst the engine is running. On industrial engines, however, a single, simplex
filter is usually fitted. In either case it is good practice to have spare filter elements to
hand.
3) One duplex bowl should be used at a time. Renew the element as indicated in Section
18 (Servicing Routine) (or sooner if there are signs of fuel starvation caused by a choked
filter). Change to the other bowl and fit a new element to the bowl just used.
4) To fit a new element:-
a) Remove the vent plug, loosen the centre bolt and empty the bowl.
b) Undo the centre bolt and remove the bowl complete with the element. Discard the
element.
c) Clean the inside of the bowl and check the condition of spring, seals, etc. Fit a new
element.
d) Refit the bowl to the filter head and tighten the centre bolt. (Do not over-tighten
- correct torque is 13.5 Nm (10 lb.ft)). Refit the drain plug.
e) Vent the filter by moving the handle until the arrow points to the position indicated
between the central position and the run position for the other bowl, letting the fuel
run into the fuel drain tank until the bubbles cease to appear. (Open one small
cock).
1) To fit new O rings to the changeover valve spindle, it is necessary to remove the filter
from the mounting bracket in order to gain access to the four screws holding the rear
cover plate. Remove the plate - this breaks the suction and enables the spindle to be
withdrawn.
2) Next remove the bolt securing the changeover handle and lift away the handle, using a
slight rocking motion. Remove the internal circlip.
3) Finally, remove the spindle, starting it if necessary by tapping lightly on the rear end with
a wooden punch. Clean the spindle and fit new O rings.
4) Re-assemble in reverse order, taking care not to damage the O rings. Renew the rear
cover gasket if necessary. Refit the filter to the engine and prime the filter.
5) A simplex filter element should simply be refitted when the engine is at rest and the filter
bowl refilled before 'bleeding' the fuel system of air before re- starting (see Section 15.1
(4).
1) Each cylinder has a separate pump with facility for adjusting the amount of fuel
delivered by that pump. The pumps are all pre-set and are therefore interchangeable,
thus effecting a considerable time saving in servicing. (In case of need, adjustment to
the injection timing can be made by varying the shimming underneath the tappet head
- see Section 3.6)
NOTE: The mating faces at the pump seating MUST be clean when the pump is
refitted or the timing will be affected.
2) To ensure that the fuel injection pumps operate satisfactorily under all conditions of
engine installation and operation, the engine is fitted with a fuel pressurising pump. This
is a proprietary positive displacement unit which is gear driven from the fresh water
pump at the free end of the engine. In case of failure however, a bypass and 3 way cock
is included to provide continued running when the daily service tank outlet is mounted at
least 2.5 metres above crankshaft level. Any other position of the fuel supply tank will
require the addition of a remote fuel lift pump, since the pressurising pump is not
intended to provide suction lift.
3) A relief valve, set to relieve at 1.4 bar (20 lb/sq.in) is placed across the filter and injection
pumps to protect against a blocked filter whilst another relief valve set to 0.8 bar (12
lb/sq.in) is placed in series with the main pumps to reduce any tendency to activation.
See remarks under 'Installation' - Section 14.5) (Industrial and 14.11 (Marine) and
drawings supplied with engine.
1) The manifolds on both sides of the pumps feed the fuel from the filter to the pumps.
2) If any difficulty should be experienced in venting air from the manifolds, slacken the
uppermost plug in each manifold end flange to enable the air to escape. Similarly, if
draining the manifolds, slacken the plugs to let air enter the manifolds.
KEY
A Lower circlip
B Tappet
C Lower Spring Plate
D Plunger spring
E Plunger
F Pinion
G Discharge union
H Valve spring
J Locking plate
K Delivery valve
L Delivery valve seat
M High pressure seal
N Sleeve
Dismantling Procedure
1) With the tappet uppermost, hold the pump in a vice equipped with soft metal jaw pads.
Press the tappet down and hold it by inserting a pin in the 3.97mm diameter holes drilled
in the body spigot.
2) Remove the lower circlip (A).
3) Take out the retaining pin carefully and remove the tappet (B) lower spring plate (C),
plunger spring (D) and plunger (E). Note the position of the plunger dog in the pinion
(F), and the assembly marks on the pinion and the control rod teeth.
4) Remove the pinion (F), upper spring plate and circlip.
5) Reverse the pump in the vice and remove the locking plate (J) and the discharge union
(G), the delivery valve spring (H) and valve assembly (K) and (L) together with the
sealing washer (M). The delivery valve and seating must always be kept together as a
working pair.
6) Remove the sleeve (N). It may be necessary to tap the lower end of the sleeve with a soft
instrument to dislodge it from its seat and enable it to be withdrawn through the top of the
housing. The pump plunger and barrel must be kept together as a working pair, and
particular care should be taken to avoid damaging either component by contact with an
abrasive or hard surface.
Re-assembly procedure
1) Build up the components, reversing the dismantling sequence, making sure that all
parts are scrupulously clean and freely covered with clean fuel oil. Do not use fluffy rags.
It is recommended that new washers are fitted and that copper washers are annealed by
heating until red hot and quenching in water. Clean off any scale.
2) Ensure that the sleeve is properly seated before proceeding with subsequent
operations.
3) Check that the rack moves quite freely throughout its full travel.
4) For discharge union body tightening torque, see Section 13.1.
5) To facilitate subsequent removal of the circlip, the circlip gap should be about 12.7 mm
(1/2") from one of the holes in the circlip groove.
After removing a fuel pump, the tappet sleeve and tappet may be removed by removing
the fuel drain manifold banjo, then the four capscrews securing the sleeve, and
withdrawing the (guide) sleeve and tappet together, taking care not to damage the O
rings.
The tappet can now be separated from the sleeve, taking care not to damage the special
seal in the bore of the sleeve.
Do not undo the adjuster unless it needs renewing, otherwise the fuel pump timing will
need to be checked. See Section 3.6. (5).
3) Unpin one spherical joint in the linkage from the governor and check that the fuel pump
control lever will turn freely. Re-pin the spherical joint.
4) Set the length of the linkage incorporating the spring box to 271 mm between the fork
joint pin centres. (See NOTE above).
5) With the governor lever in the full load position (8 on the scale), set No.1 adjusting lever
(R) to give the rack reading shown on the test sheet for full load, with equal adjustment
possible in either direction by the rack adjusting screw (K) and arm (J). At full load the
slot in lever (J) is to be as near as possible parallel to the centre line of the pump, the pin
should be set in mid position of the slot. This may involve resetting the overload stop (P)
on illustration for Lubricating Oil Low Pressure Trip in Section 12).
Balance pumps on full load. The pumps should now be balanced at the no load
position. This adjustment can be affected by moving the pin in the slot, lowering the pin
will increase the fuel, raising will decrease the fuel.
NOTE:- Any adjustment of the pin in the slot at no load will not significantly affect
the initial setting at the full load position.
6) Check that when the governor lever is moved to the 'no load' position, the governor
reads '2'
7) Set the remaining pump racks to the same figures as No.1.
8) Return the lubricating oil low pressure trip operating pin to its working position (whilst
pushing the trip button back, clear of the pin).
KEY
J Adjusting lever arm
K Adjuster screw
L Spring
M Pump rack
R Adjusting lever
CAUTION: It is imperative that this final operation is carried out, otherwise there
will be no protection against lubricating oil pressure failure.
Set pump rack to full load position (See Test sheet Mean Rack Reading).
Adjust link to dimension (S) of 63mm between M/C face on body of pump and outside
face of link.
NOTE:- This dimension will be approximate as link can only be adjusted by one
complete turn, limitation therefore will be to a tolerance of +/- 0.75mm.
Pump Rack Link Setting For CV Fuel Pump
Set pump rack to full position by measuring the distance between stop end cap and box
(U) (See Test Sheet Mean Rack Readings).
Adjust link to dimension (T) of 60mm between boss face and outside face of link.
NOTE:- This dimension will be approximate as link can only be adjusted by one
complete turn, limitation therefore will be to a tolerance of +/- 0.75mm
10) To adjust individual rack settings by matching the exhaust temperatures, loosen the
pump rack adjusting setscrew locknut; turn the setscrew (K), slightly (clockwise to
increase the amount of fuel injected; this will give the effect of increasing the exhaust
temperature of the cylinder and vice versa). Tighten the locknut. In this manner, the
quantity of fuel for any pump can be adjusted without interfering with the settings of the
other pumps. After each adjustment allow time for the temperature to 'settle.' The
temperature should be balanced up within 10 deg.C (18 deg F) above or below the
mean for the engine at full load. Any rack reading more than 1/2mm above or below the
mean for the engine should be investigated. The pump plunger and barrel should be
examined, and if their surfaces are scored, or the edges of the plunger or the holes in the
bore of the barrel are chipped, it will be necessary to fit a replacement pump, and send
the old pump for overhaul.
3.7. FUEL PUMP TIMING
The fuel pumps are individually timed by shimming during manufacture. If, however, a
pump has become worn with prolonged use or for any reason the timing is suspect, the
spill point and timing should be checked as follows:-
1) If necessary first check the camshaft to crankshaft timing according to the instructions in
Section 10.3 under 'Camshaft Timing'.
2) Next remove the delivery valve from the fuel pump and reconnect the delivery pipe but
leave the top end of the pipe disconnected from the injector. (Fuel coming from the pipe
during the remaining steps of this procedure should be caught in a suitable receptacle).
Press in the fuel pump rack operating lever to approximately the full load position and
hold it in this position with a wooden wedge.
3) Bar the engine in its correct direction of rotation until the cylinder for the pump being
checked is just on the Compression Stroke. Turn on the fuel supply, whereupon fuel
should flow from the top of the delivery pipe.
4) Continue barring the engine round until the flow of fuel oil is not more than ten drops per
minute, but has NOT completely stopped - this is important.
If during this operation the fuel flow is inadequate - due to the fuel level in the daily
service tank being too low to provide a sufficient head of fuel - or a pressurised fuel
system gives an excessive flow - it may be advisable to arrange a temporary supply
feeding into the fuel filter from a container fixed at a suitable height above the level of the
pump-to injector pipe outlet.
5) Check crankshaft angle or piston distance below TDC for the cylinder in question and if
not within the tolerances given in the table below, the pump tappet shimming must be
adjusted as necessary (0.18 mm thickness equals approximately one degree
crankshaft angle).
Std (up to 210 bmep) (Uprated above 210 bmep)
Angular Spill Timing 0BTDC 200 +/- 1/20 240 + 1/20
Piston displacement* at 10.65 mm 15.52 mm
Spill Timing BTDC +/ 0.65 mm +/ 0.65 mm
- -
*Using probe mentioned under 'Camshaft Timing' in Section 10.3(4).
WARNING: After adding or removing any shims or when fitting a fresh pump,
check that the pump plunger is not being forced hard against the delivery valve
seating at the top of the stroke nor riding on the lower spring clip at the bottom of
the stroke. To ensure this, fit the pump with the follower on the base of the cam
and check that there is still some clearance (0.25 mm is sufficient) beneath the
pump fixing flange as the fixing screws begin to tighten against the spring pressure
- this proves the element will not ride on the retaining spring ring when the pump
is tightened down; then after tightening down, move the cam progressively to peak
whilst making repeated checks that the follower can be lifted clear of the cam (by
carefully inserting a screwdriver blade between the cam and the follower) - this
ensures that the pump plunger is not touching the delivery valve seating. The fuel
pump bumping clearance is 1.5 mm
6) When the spill timing is correct, refit the fuel pump delivery valve, reconnect to the
injector, prime the fuel system, etc.
NOTE: The shimming must not be altered for any reason other than to maintain
correct spill timing
3.8. INJECTOR
As with the fuel pump, working conditions of absolute cleanliness are required when
servicing the fuel injector. Site servicing will usually be limited to thorough cleaning and
KEY
A Inlet connector
B Inlet connector washer
C Clamp
D Circlip
E Injector body
F Shim plate
G Shims
H Spring plate
J Spring
K Nozzle nut
L Dowel
M Spindle
N Transfer block
P Blanking washer (to be removed
before fitting nozzle assembly)
INJECTOR
to the fitting of new parts in place of any that are found to be damaged or worn. It is,
therefore, a good policy always to have one or more spare injectors or at least nozzles
and valves available for use whilst those needing reconditioning are returned to the
makers or their agents for specialist attention.
Dismantling Procedure
1) Grip the injector body in a vice, nozzle uppermost. (Clamp the jaws on the flats formed
on the shank).
2) Using a ring or socket wrench to fit 32 mm nut and capable of exerting a torque of 270
Nm (200 lb.ft.), slacken the nozzle nut. Note: The socket must be at least 45 mm deep to
clear the nozzle tip. A steady force must be applied; do not snatch or hammer the
wrench, and do not grip the nozzle stem.
3) Remove the nozzle nut, nozzle, transfer block, thrust spindle and spring.
4) Release the injector body from the vice and tip out the spring, plate and shims.
5) If the valve is seized in the nozzle, fit a replacement nozzle and valve. The faulty parts
should be sent to a local agent for attention, as any attempt by an operator in the field to
separate them is unlikely to leave them in a condition suitable for further satisfactory
service.
6) Provided the valve and nozzle are not seized, thoroughly clean all the components using
a brass wire brush (from the injector cleaning kit - available if specially ordered), paying
particular attention to the fuel gallery, the feed channel bore, the valve seating, the nozzle
holes, and the pressure surfaces between the body and the upper face of the transfer
block, and between the lower face of the transfer block and the nozzle. If the impact of
the needle at full lift has caused indentation of the lower face of the transfer block, a new
block should be fitted.
Rotate the valve on its seat WITHOUT ANY ABRASIVE. Clean fuel oil, petrol or an
approved solvent can be used to soften the carbon, but on no account must any attempt
be made to lap in the nozzle and valve. For the nozzle holes use wire 0.34-0.36 mm
diameter.
NOTE: If the valve shows signs of damage or uneven finish (dull or very bright
spots), or is coloured due to overheating, and cleaning fails to cure these defects,
the nozzle assembly should be carefully packed and sent to an agent for
examination and possible reconditioning.
7) Renew any spring showing signs of corrosion, pitting, collapse or distortion, or having a
free length less than 51 mm (2.01 in).
8) Check that the thrust spindle is undamaged and slides smoothly in the bore of the spring
plate.
Re-assembly Procedure
9) If the top end of the injector has been dismantled, fit new sealing washers and tighten to
torque shown in Section 13.1.
10) Fit the dowels to the transfer block. They should be a push fit or at most a light tap fit (not
any tighter!) If the dowels are a drive fit, the transfer block may crack.
11) Grip the injector body in a vice as for dismantling and reassemble the spring, thrust
spindle, transfer block, etc. in the reverse of the dismantling sequence. For nozzle nut
torque, see Section 13.1.
12) Using an injector testing pump check the release pressure and spray characteristics. If
the release pressure is low, adjust the shim thickness above the spring plate. Addition of
0.1 mm thickness will increase the nozzle opening (release) pressure by approximately
7.4 bars (108 lb.f/sq.in). Removal of shims will, of course, reduce the release pressure
by a similar amount. Alternatively a change of 10 atmospheres. represents a shim
change of approximately 0.14 mm (0.0055").
If the injector is dismantled and components replaced, or new shims are fitted, then the
release pressure should be set at 303 bar (4400 lb/sq.in) to allow for component
settlement during initial running.
The stated pressure of 303 bar (4400 lb/sq.in) is nominal and engines should operate
satisfactorily at a settled pressure as low as 276 bar (4000 lb/sq.in) under optimum
conditions.
WARNING: The nozzle spray is highly penetrating and should be directed away
from the operator's hands and body. The working pressure can cause the oil to
penetrate the skin with ease.
Fit a new nozzle washer, ensuring that the old one has not been left in the cylinder
head.
Injector Mounting
Nuts are fitted on the injector mounting studs below the injector clamp; these are for
jacking the injector out of the cylinder head. Both nuts must be turned together to keep
the clamp level throughout the jacking process.
To ensure adequate cooling, the injector is mounted in a tube which passes through the
coolant space in the cylinder head. This tube has seals top and bottom, and for these to
be effective, it must be pressed right home. It is retained by a ring nut, screwed flush into
the cylinder head and which bears upon the tube through a pack of dished washers.
See note in paragraph (1) of Section 11.9. The top portion of the tube is threaded G1 1/4
female to enable the tube to be extracted. (NOTE: G1 1/4 was previously known as 1
1/4" BSPF - see Introduction Section 1.2(4).
NOTE: Drain the fresh water to below the level of the top of the cylinder housing
before removing the injector tube. Before re-fitting the injector tube, ensure that
the bottom seating is quite clean. Lightly lubricate the rubber rings after fitting
them in the grooves in the tube and push the tube into place with steady pressure.
3.9. FUEL OIL SPECIFICATION (DISTILLATE FUELS)
The fuel oil should be to specification BS 2869:1970, Class A1, A2 or B1. Before fuel to
any lower specification is used, details of the proposed oil should be forwarded to the
Works for consideration.
It is the user's responsibility to obtain good clean fuel as indicated above and our agent
or the local agent of the oil company should be contacted for recommendations of
suitable fuels.
to run satisfactorily for a short time on unsuitable fuel, excessive wear and damage will
result and the life of the engine will be materially shortened.
To avoid system damage or clogging, it is essential that, prior to the engine being
shut-down, it is operated for at least 7 minutes on distillate fuel.
To shut the engine down on residual fuel - even for a short interval on highly viscous
grades would result in the engine manifolds, pumps, pressure lines and injectors
having to be removed and replaced, as the residual fuel, on cooling,would form a thick
'shellac' and to force the pumps to work under such conditions would result in very
heavy damage being done to them. All pumps and injectors would have to be stripped
and cleaned - and this is not a job to be undertaken without the use of special
equipment in conditions of extreme cleanliness.
The preceding two paragraphs ensure flushing of heavy fuel from the `engines' fuel
system to prevent the damage indicate above. If the heavy fuel side of the busrail
module is to be shutdown, it to must be flushed to prevent blockage of pipework and
valves. To achieve this, light fuel operation must be selected on the busrail module, the
heater between the daily service tank and the busrail module must be switched `Off', the
heavy fuel transfer pump should be switched `On' then first valve N0.141 should be
switched `On' allowing light fuel from the distillate daily service tank into the system,
followed by manual opening of valve N0. 140. Fuel should be allowed to flow through the
module for approximately 3 minutes, the condition of the fuel in the module should be
checked visually, via the sample cock on the module. Shut valve N0.140 after flushing
but leave valve No.141 open in order to isolate the residual fuel daily service tank.
Note:- When re-commisioning the heavy fuel side of the busrail module the line heater
must be `Off', open valve N0. 141 and valve N0. 140, fuel should be allowed to flow
through the module for approximately 3 minutes, the condition of the fuel in the module
should be checked visually, via the sample cock on the module. Shut valve N0. 140 and
switch on the line heater.
The fuel specification given above under Sec. 2.8 covers the application of suitable
distillate fuels for normal and heavy fuel engine use. When running on residual fuels the
fuel oil must not have a viscosity exceeding 75 centistokes at 800C (3600 seconds
Redwood No. 1 at 1000F). However, before full approval of any fuel specification can be
given, it must be submitted to Mirrlees Blackstone for investigation.
No responsibility can be taken by Mirrlees Blackstone for any problems as a result of
using a fuel not previously approved.
3.12.ENGINE EFFICIENCY
Marine wet sump engines - if it is required to remove the sump suction pipe from the
engine base, the section in the sump must be released first.
A dipstick is provided for checking the oil level which must never be allowed to fall below
the minimum mark. On a dry sump engine, the dipstick is in the tank and the check must
be made with the engine running, otherwise a false reading may lead to overfilling.
The lubricating oil system is primed by a separate priming pump. This may take the
form of either an air, or electric motor-driven rotary gear-type pump depending upon
the proposed duty of the engine. In each case additional instructions are supplied by
the pump manufacturer and should be studied before operating the pump.
It is preferable to pre-prime the lubricating oil system before each engine start. If this is
not practicable - i.e. on mains-failure generating sets - intermittent priming is
necessary every 5 hours. Minimum priming pressure to be 0.25 bar (4 lb.f/sq.in.). For
pre-priming, the engine is available for starting 15 seconds after achieving this
pressure. For intermittent priming, the pump must run for 15 seconds after the pressure
is achieved.
On dry sump engines the valve in the pipe from the tank to the pressure pump suction
must be closed if the engine is stopped and there is any possibility of the oil in the tank
running back into the engine (i.e. should a ship be likely to list during loading or some
similar circumstance occur).
Turbochargers have their own lubricating system incorporating two sumps. Both
should be filled to the mark preferably with Turbine Oil (see maker's handbook). A
suggested list of approved oils appears at the end of this section. In the absence of any
of them, engine oil to SAE 30 would generally be permissible.
Where an extension shaft and outer bearing are fitted, the same grade of oil can be used
in the bearing as in the engine.
For details of the governor lubricating system, reference should be made to the makers'
manual. Likewise for the priming pump or any other ancillary equipment requiring
lubrication, the makers' instructions should be carefully followed.
Apart from its normal priming duty, the priming pump may also be used to empty the
sump/tank.
KEY
B Ind. sump (in base) H Lub. oil pressure regulating valve
C Filler tube J Duplex filter
D Sump suction pipe K Filter input (and standby pump
E Connection for priming pump delivery connection - from cooler
suction (and standby pump and thermostat
suction) L Low pressure trip (behind control
F Pressure Pump unit)
G Pressure pump delivery (via M Dipstick (wet sump position)
cooler/bypass and thermostat to N Lub. oil manifold
filter) P Manifold connecting block
The engine sump/tank capacity is approximately as shown below. To these figures must
be added the capacity of the oil cooler or radiator, piping, etc.
No. of Cylinders 5 6 8 9
Wet Sump Engine Industrial
To remove the lubricating oil manifold from the engine, first remove the governor and
drive and the tachometer generator, also the upper side cover door.
Next remove the screw from each distributor block in the manifold. Disconnect the short
feed pipe at the free end and the step connector at the flywheel end. Move each upper
connector downwards into the distributor blocks, taking care not to damage the `O'
rings. Lift the manifold out in one piece or in sections as convenient. Bobbins connect
the underside of each block to the cylinder housing.
When refitting the manifold, the camshaft bearing housing faces and mating lubricating
oil distributor faces should be cleaned and refitted using Hylomar.
Where an engine may operate in extremely low temperatures, the engine oil may not
have the pour point and viscosity characteristics required for the governor. In such
cases, the oil supplier should be consulted for recommendations. In arctic conditions,
SAE20 oil should be used. If instability occurs for a period following a cold start,
mulitgrade SAE20-30 or 10-40/50 oil should be used.
Best quality heavy duty detergent diesel oil, viscosity SAE 30 must be used. It is
important that the detergency level should be adequate but not higher than is actually
necessary; (increasing the detergency level beyond that which is necessary for a clean
engine may in fact impair engine performance).
Listed below are oils offered by some of the leading suppliers as suitable for normal
duties when running on the classes of fuel oil indicated. Fullest details should be given
to the oil supplier concerning the particular installation, including; engine type, ambient
temperature range, humidity, site altitude, if subject to sea air or dust, engine cooling
water temperature, engine duty, etc.
RECOMMENDED LUBRICATING OIL
Marketing Engine Lubricating Oil Fuel Class (BS 2869)
Company (SAE 30 Grade) A1 A2 Max Sulphur
Content 1.5%
BP Energol DS3-103 * * *
DLMP-30 * *
Burmah 215 mx Super *
Castrol MLC 30 *
MHP 153 *
CMAX Extra 30 *
Caltex RPM Delo 300 Oil SAE 30 *
RPM Delo 1000 Marine Oil *
Chevron Delo 300 Motor Oil SAE 30 *
Delo 1000 Marine Oil SAE 30 *
Esso Essolube XD-3, 30 * *
Exxmar 12TP30 * *
Gulf Vertitas SD 30 *
Mobil Delvac 1330 *
Shell Rimula X30 *
Gadinia 30 *
Texaco Ursa Super LA30 * *
All these oils satisfy the detergency level requirements of ASTM Category CD
(Caterpillar Tests 1D, 1G and Series 3).
For fuel oils, with sulphur content 1.6% and over refer to the factory for advice.
If there is any thought of using oil of a lower detergency level, this should be entertained
only after very careful consideration of the condition of the engine following long periods
of running on the specified oil. The use of insufficiently detergent oil could allow a build
up of carbon around the piston rings and have other effects which would ultimately
cause serious harm.
Frequent samples of oil should be taken to determine the rate of deterioration and the
advice of the oil supplier sought in any case of doubt. (See also under 'Lubricating Oil
Change' in Section 4.7).
Marine applications have a duplex, twin bowl full flow filter fitted, only one bowl being in
use at a time. The changeover from one bowl to the other can be made with the engine
running. For details of element renewal periods, see Sections 15 and 18. Land-based
engines will normally be fitted with a simplex, single bowl filter.
Use the first bowl as indicated in Section 15 under 'Running the engine', then switch over
to the other bowl, by withdrawing the locating bolt and moving the lever round to the full
extent of its travel, the bolt can be then be re-engaged in the RUN position, in the cover
of the other bowl, assuming this bowl has already been primed. (If not primed, see step
(4) below).
1) First slacken off the vent bleed screw in the top cover of the bowl to be serviced, until the
flat is exposed, to admit air. Remove the drain plug from underneath the bowl and drain
the oil into a suitable container.
2) Undo the eight bolts holding the top cover and remove the cover and the element
retaining spring. Discard the used element, clean the inside of the bowl, fit a new
element and renew any seals not in good condition.
3) Refit the retaining spring, the top cover and the eight fixing bolts. Tighten the bolts
progressively. Refit the drain plug.
4) With the engine running, prime the bowl ready for use by opening the wheel valve with
the bleed screw in a vent position until oil appears; close the vent and then the wheel
valve. To bring the bowl with the new element into use, move the handle from the 'run'
position to the `prime' position over the other bowl (when both bowls will be in operation)
and hold for 30 seconds, then move the handle to the 'run' position on the fresh bowl and
secure the handle with the locating bolt. Land engines should have their simplex filter,
filled and primed whilst the engine is at rest.
NOTE: If the priming operation cannot be carried out with the engine running, it
will be necessary to use the engine priming pump to fill the bowl. If the pump is
operated by compressed air, all the engine doors and inspection covers must have
been refitted before the engine control lever is moved to the 'Prime' position in
case accidental further movement of the lever to 'Start' should cause the
crankshaft to move, possibly endangering any to her operator working on the
engine.
Again, as with fuel filters, it is good practice to carry spare filter elements.
Full advantage should be taken of the facilities normally offered by the leading oil
suppliers of checking samples of the oil and advising on its suitability for further service.
If the checks are made initially at intervals of 500 hours running, experience will soon
determine whether this period can be extended or needs to be reduced; such factors as
the number of starts from cold, or frequent wide fluctuations in speed/load will affect the
condition of the oil, and these very running conditions may vary over a period of time.
Insolubles must not be allowed to exceed 4% but are normally acceptable up to this limit.
Engine oil change intervals should be based on the analyses of the condition of the oil.
Storage facilities should be planned to allow for the oil to be changed based on
experience. The life of the oil will be affected by the oil consumption of the engine, as the
larger the amount needed for topping up, the longer will be the period before a change is
necessary.
If at any time there is an unexpected variation in the pattern of oil change periods, or a
sudden rise (or fall) in the daily oil consumption, the reason for this should be
investigated. The analysis of the oil may suggest the line of investigation to be followed.
Drain the oil whilst the engine is warm, using the priming pump and temporarily
disconnecting the delivery connection to the engine. Extract the last remaining oil using
a hand pump and small bore hose terminating in a metal or plastic tube which can be
worked into the corners. Flush with clean oil, and clean the sump. Refill with fresh oil to
the 'maximum' level mark on the dipstick, checking the level after priming.
Different brands of oil may be mixed, provided the oil is suitable for the application and
approval is obtained from the lubricant supplier.
Engines on standby duty - the lubricating oil in the engine sump, also in any oil bath air
filter and in the turbocharger should be renewed at least every 12/18 months or as
decided after consultation with the oil supplier.
(for torque on pump drive gear retaining nut, see Section 13).
The engine lubricating oil pump is readily removed by unscrewing the fixing bolts. Drain
any oil from the sump before removing the pump from a wet sump engine.
and R (Reverse) on the backplate in the vicinity of the bores. Make sure, when rebuilding
a pump, that the long shaft gear and drive pinion are retained in the bore bearing the
appropriate engine rotation symbol. (Reverse rotation engines have an R suffix to the
engine number stamped on the Data Plate).
After the engine has been running for 30 minutes or the oil temperature has reached
49 deg.C (120 deg.F) the lubricating oil pressure at nominal speed should have
dropped to the correct figure; if it is still high, release the locknut on the relief valve and
rotate the adjusting screw, turning anti-clockwise to reduce the pressure. Retighten
the locknut.
If a spring breaks and a replacement is not immediately available, remove the top of the
valve, remove the adjuster locknut and screw down until pressure is restored. If
necessary, remove the plug, insert suitable solid packing above the spring button, refit
the plug and screw down the adjuster until adequate pressure is obtained. Fit a new
spring as soon as possible.
The direction of flow through the thermostatic valve, when used to control the
temperature of the lubricating oil as it enters the engine must be the reverse of what it is
when the valve is used in the fresh water system, (where it controls the temperature of
the water leaving the engine). Oil direct from the pump enters by the 'normally open'
port, ('B' on the Amot valve) and oil from the cooler by the 'normally closed' port, ('C' on
the Amot valve), leaving by the port in which it flows over the element ('A' on the Amot
valve). The valve thus functions as a mixing valve.
If the flow of oil is in the wrong direction and the oil enters at port 'A', the temperature of
the oil in the sump/tank will be controlled but the temperature of the oil as it enters the
engine will vary widely in achieving this; whilst, whichever direction the oil flows in, if port
'B' is connected to the oil cooler instead of the bypass pipe, (and port 'C' to the bypass),
the oil will be slow to heat up but once the valve begins to open, the temperature will
quickly rise out of control, as the oil will now begin to bypass the cooler. Correct
installation is therefore absolutely essential.
In reasonably good working conditions the valve, when used in the lubricating oil
system, should only need overhaul every two or three years. After disassembly all parts
should be thoroughly cleaned and the O ring renewed within which the element
operates. When fitting this O ring, make sure it is correctly centred in the groove in the
sleeve and apply a light coat of grease before refitting the element.
The element is designed to operate at the correct temperature and requires no further
adjustment.
To test an element in case of suspected failure, place the valve in water (NOT oil)
approximately 5 deg.C (9 deg.F) below nominal rating and heat the water slowly, stirring
vigourously all the time to ensure the water passes through the valve; the valve should
be seen through port 'B' to start moving at approximately 2 1/2 deg.C (5 deg.F) below
nominal rating and have almost completed its travel (i.e. be almost fully closed) at
approximately 5 deg.F (9 deg.C) above nominal. Dry the valve thoroughly before
refitting in the lubricating oil system.
GEARS
Clearances Millimetres Inches
Maximum permissible backlash between
engine oil pump drive gears 0.38 0.015
Maximum permissible backlash between
engine oil pump
internal gears 0.38 0.015
For residual fuel burning engines, the lubricating oil will be approved by brand name
subject to submission of a suitable fuel specification. It is essential than TBN (alkalinity)
level of the selected oil stabilises at a value not less than 3 times the percentage sulphur
level of the fuel.
COOLING SYSTEM
SECTION CONTENTS
5.1. DESCRIPTION OF SYSTEM
5.2. FRESH WATER (JACKET COOLING) CIRCUIT
5.3. TEMPERATURE CONTROL
5.4. WATER PUMPS
5.5. JACKET WATER COOLER
5.6. OIL COOLER
5.7. INTERCOOLER (Charge Air Cooler)
5.8. RADIATOR (when fitted)
5.9. FRESH WATER (Treatment for hardness and frost protection)
5.10.FITTING CLEARANCES (All measurements taken cold)
5.1. DESCRIPTION OF SYSTEM
The standard system comprises two separate circuits, one (primary) for fresh water
circulating through the engine jacket, turbocharger and heat exchanger/radiator, the
other (secondary) for raw water which passes through the intercooler, and then the oil
cooler and heat exchanger/radiator (raw water section).
Connections are provided for standby pumps for use in emergency if one of the engine
driven water pumps should fail. See Section 17.
5.2. FRESH WATER (JACKET COOLING) CIRCUIT
The centrifugal type non-self-priming water pump is mounted on the exhaust side of
the control end cover and is gear-driven off the crankshaft through an idler gear. The
water, after being pumped through the engine, leaves the cylinder heads and
turbocharger and travels - via the thermostat (J), - to the jacket water cooler
(K)/radiator (or via the by-pass pipe (O)) and then back to the suction side of the pump
(A). Cooling water is also supplied to the turbocharger.
A vent pipe (F) leads to the overhead balance tank (L), and the water make-up pipe (Q)
from the tank to the pump.
The level of the water in the balance tank should never be allowed to drop below
three-quarters full according to the indicator) in order to ensure effective after-cooling
when the engine has been shut down. This point will require specially careful watching if
more than one engine is connected to a single balance tank or if the balance tanks of
various engines are interconnected, since a drop in water level will then affect all the
engines.
If the water in the balance tank is not replenished automatically, a separate tank for each
engine is definitely advised, with no interconnection between tanks.
In addition to the thermostat, all engines have a balancing valve (H) for regulating the
flow to secure a temperature rise across the engine at nominal speed and full load, as
follows:-
The thermostat, when used in the fresh water system, acts as a diversion valve, to secure
a fast warm-up and then control the temperature of the water in the outlet manifold. The
water must therefore first pass over the element and, if below the nominal temperature,
travel direct back to the pump through the 'normally open' side of the thermostat,
by-passing the heat exchanger. On an Amot valve the inlet is through port 'A' and
by-pass to the pump through port 'B' with port 'C' routing the water to the heat
exchanger.
WARNING: Port 'A' may be the branch or at one end of an Amot valve depending
on the size of the valve. This must be carefully checked when installing. (See also
remarks in Section 4.10).
The element is designed to operate at the correct temperature and requires no further
adjustment.
The correct functioning of the thermostat can be checked as follows: when starting from
cold, the by-pass to the pump suction should warm up, whilst the outlet pipe to the
exchanger stays cold. As the water temperature approaches 76.5 deg.C (170 deg.F)
the pipe to the heat exchanger will begin to heat up.
Overhaul of the thermostat in the water system will be required more frequently than
overhaul of the valve in the engine lubricating oil system, but the procedure will be
similar. See Section 4.10.
On an engine with heat exchanger cooling, the thermostat will normally maintain the
fresh water temperature around 76.5 deg.C (170 deg.F); if a radiator cooled engine is
running on full load in high ambient temperature conditions, however, the temperature
may rise as high as 85 deg.C (185 deg.F). This is quite acceptable, so long as this figure
is not exceeded.
(For torque on pump drive gear retaining nut, See Section 13)
The standard fresh water pump is non-self-priming, the raw water pump
self-priming; both pumps have gland seals.
Mounted on the free end cover, either pump may be readily removed by unscrewing the
four retaining setscrews after draining the water.
The pump spindle should be regularly greased via the nipple provided (Shell Alvania
grease No.2 or equivalent). It is suggested that this is done after every 24 hours running
unless experience indicates otherwise. The greasing will help to reduce the seepage of
water.
N.B. Care should be taken when tightening the water pump gland, if excessive
leakage develops, to prevent seizure of the pump spindle. Tighten the gland
setscrews alternately one flat at a time and keep up a plentiful supply of grease to
the pump nipple connection with the aid of a grease gun. It is preferable to have
a little leakage at the gland rather than risk a seizure of a spindle through
over-tightening the gland setscrew.
For normal maintenance of the gland packing the gland may be removed and additional
rings added as required with the pump in position. So long as this does not move the
lantern ring out of alignment with the grease connection (making it impossible to inject
more grease). For major overhauls, however, when it is required to renew all the gland
packing, it is advisable to remove the pump and dismantle it completely. After the gland
bore has been thoroughly cleaned out and the bearings inspected for wear, the
reassembly procedure should be as follows:-
1) Before refitting the spindle, insert two packing rings in the gland bore.
3) Insert the lantern ring (two halves) and a suitable distance piece so that the packings
may be compressed with the gland. This nipping of the first two packings until they just
grip the spindle is ESSENTIAL if a watertight seal is to be obtained.
4) Remove the gland, distance piece and lantern ring and insert one more packing ring.
Repeat (3).
5) Leave the lantern ring in position and add one more packing ring. Compress with the
gland.
6) Remove the gland, add the last packing ring (total of five). Refit the gland and nip up the
gland screws.
RUNNING IN:
2) When the gland leaks, tighten the gland screw and add more grease.
3) Repeat (8) until the gland drips only every 10-15 seconds.
Note for marine engine operators: Cleaning procedures should be carried out on
shore, (other than simply wire brushing tube bores in situ).
How often the Jacket Water Cooler will need to be cleaned will depend largely on the
water condition. It is recommended however, that this operation should be performed at
least every 1500 hours for the raw water side, and every 3000 hours for the fresh water
side. The tubestack may be cleaned as follows:-
Note the position of the water boxes relative to the body of the Jacket Water Cooler
and remove the box, rubber joint and leakage ring from each end of the unit. This
will then expose the tubestack which, for convenience, may be cleaned internally
without removing from the case. Clean by passing a stiff wire brush through each
tube and thoroughly scouring.
As an alternative to wire brushing the tubes, descaling solution (see below) can be
pumped through the tubestack in situ, using a portable pump and tank.
To clean and descale the tubestack by the use of a suitable acid solvent, such as
Houseman Hegro's H.T.L. solution, or H.T.L. No.5 Powder Descalent, or inhibited
hydrochloric (Muriatic) acid.
3) Carefully push the tubestack out of the casing, immerse it in the solution and allow to
remain until effervescence ceases. Occasional lifting in and out of the solution will speed
up the process.
4) Remove the tubestack, rinse and examine. If scale remains, repeat with a fresh solution
until the tubes are clean.
5) Wash the tubestack thoroughly in plain water making sure that the water passes both
between the tubes and through them.
6) To remove all traces of acid, immerse and agitate the tubes in a solution prepared by
adding 1 kg of common washing soda to each 50 litres of boiling water (1 lb to 5 gallons).
Leave the tubestack in the solution for at least one hour, and finally wash the tubestack
with hot fresh water.
Leaking tubes may be sealed temporarily with turned hardwood plugs provided in the
tool kit* and up to 10% of the total number of tubes may be sealed off without unduly
impairing the efficiency of the cooler. Liner tubes can be supplied for fitting inside
leaking tubes. These should be annealed at both ends, inserted into the cleaned
original tube and roller expanded to ensure a watertight seal. Apply a hydraulic
pressure test 4.2 kg/sq.cm (60 lb/sq.in. ) after fitting liner tubes. When more than 10%
of the tubes are found to be leaking, a new stack should be fitted. * If ordered
5.6. OIL COOLER
For removing the dirty oil from the outside of the tubes, a number of suitable
degreasants are now available in concentrated liquid, crystal or powder form, ready for
mixing with water. These are non-toxic, non-caustic and free from fire risk.
(Houseman Hegro's H.D.1 Degreasant has been tested by a leading heat exchange
equipment manufacturer and found entirely satisfactory). Whatever solvent is used, the
makers' instructions should be closely followed. Prepare a suitable quantity of hot
solution.
The tubestack should be pushed out of the casing and immersed in the solution Lifting
the tubes in and out of the solution will speed up the process of degreasing.
Finally, to avoid contamination of the oil, all trace of the degreasant must be removed
(using steam or boiling water, and compressed air).
Next descale the bore of the tubes (as described above for heat exchangers).
Air Side: The cooling fins can be examined by the removal of the air ducting. Any
deposit can readily be brushed away with stiff nylon brushes (not wire brushes). Use of
a low pressure steam or a compressed air blower will facilitate removal of heavier
deposits. Remove the section of the air manifold feeding Nos.1 and 2 cylinders and
remove any dirt falling through the cooling block. No dirt must be allowed to enter the
cylinders.
Water Side: Remove the two headers and inspect the interior of the tubes. Where
deposits are soft, which will occur in the majority of installations, use special brushes
supplied in the tool kit. (Tool kit supplied if specially ordered). This operation should be
carried out at least every 1500 hours.
Air Side: To clean the film plates, immerse the stack in a tank containing a solution
made from H.D. degreasant powder (manufactured by Houseman Hegro Limited, of the
Priory, Burnham, Bucks., England). H.D. powder is non-toxic and free from fire risk. It
is most effective when used as a solution as near boiling point as possible. Either steam
or electric immersion heaters may be used to heat the water. The degreasant powder
should be added to the boiling water (never the water to the degreasant) and agitation of
the solution, either raising and lowering the stack or by means of a jet of steam or air, will
accelerate the washing process.
Other degreasants may be used at the discretion of the engineer in charge, e.g 'Basol
77' in crystal form manufactured by Basol Limited, 57 Church Street, Staines,
Middlesex, 'Industrial Clegris' made by Clensol Limited, 7/9 Fowler Road, Hainault,
Ilford, Essex, H.D.S. phenol base degreasant made by Houseman Hegro Limited, or the
trichlorethylene vapour process. It should be noted that all smoking by operators must
be prohibited when using the trichlorethylene.
Water Side: To clean the tubes internally if the scale is hard and too stubborn to remove
with wire brushes, we recommend the use of H.T.L. Solution" which is an inhibited acid
solvent manufactured by Houseman Hegro, using the same procedure as described
above for heat exchanger tubestacks - see 'Jacket Water Cooler'- steps (1) to (6)
above (Section 5.5).
Other acid solvents may be used, such as 'Clensol' or inhibited hydrochloric (muriatic)
acid, at the discretion of the engineer in charge. The maker's instructions should be
followed and care must be taken to prevent aluminium parts coming into contact with
the acid.
First offer the header with water inlet and outlet and the support angles (with joints) to the
tube plate and secure with capscrews. Next fit the plain header and the side plates (with
joints) to the tube plate and secure with capscrews Finally secure the side plates to the
support angles with capscrews.
Apply hydraulic test pressure at 3.5 kg/sq.cm. or 3.44 bar (50 lb/sq.in).
Radiators are usually provided with renewable cooling sections for the oil and water.
(See maker's handbook).
In case of damage, remove the faulty section(s) and blank off holes until a replacement
section can be fitted.
Water Sections
Aerated water promotes corrosion. Keep all pump glands and pipe connections in
good order, vent the system frequently and keep the radiator full at all times unless
drained off when the engine is to be laid up or in extremely cold weather if no alternative
frost precautions are taken.
Keep the outside of the radiator clean. If necessary, use a jet of steam, or hot water with
detergent such as Shell Teepol, taking care not to damage the fins.
If possible use soft water in the radiator. Chemical and oil emulsion inhibitors are
available for hard water as protection against corrosion and scale, but manufacturers'
instructions should be carefully followed, particularly regarding maintaining the correct
concentration.
If the outside of the radiator is clean, a gradual rise in outlet temperature usually
indicates fouling inside the tubes, allowance being made for engine load and ambient
temperature. The water section of the radiator should be cleaned internally as often as
indicated in Section 18, or more frequently if necessary, using a technique similar to that
outlined for jacket water coolers. If more convenient the radiator may be taken apart and
the manifolds and sections should be renewed after descaling.
Before putting the radiator into service again, fill the water section with water, apply a
hydraulic test pressure of 2.8 kg/sq.cm. or 2.75 bar (40 lb/sq.in.) and examine for any
leaks. If possible the rubber joint rings for each water section should be renewed after
descaling.
Oil Sections
The oil section(s) of the radiator should be cleaned internally as often as indicated in
Section 18, using a technique similar to that outlined for oil coolers.
1) Filling the radiator with solution of the correct strength, then injecting steam at pressure
not exceeding 0.7 kg/sq.cm or 0.69 bar (10 lb/sq.in) through a connection in the bottom
manifold.
2) Circulating the solution (preferably heated) through the radiator using a portable pump
and tank.
Finally to avoid contamination of the engine oil, all trace of degreasant must be removed
using steam or boiling water and compressed air before re-connecting the radiator to
the engine. If steam is used, check that no moisture is left in the bottom of the radiator, by
removing the drain plug(s).
Whilst soft clean water is desirable for filling up the engine water jacket system, what
really matters is to retain the same water. This is only possible by reducing to the very
minimum the loss by leakage and evaporation. Scale in undesirable quantities forms
where water containing scale-forming salts is being frequently replaced. Where there
is doubt regarding the quality of the water, a water treatment specialist should be
consulted. Samples may be submitted to the Works for analysis and recommendations.
The volume of water in an engine may be estimated on the basis of 41-45 litres (9-10
gallons) per cylinder. To this must be added the capacity of the balance tank, jacket
water cooler, piping, etc.
SECTION CONTENTS
6.1. AIR FILTER, OIL BATH (when fitted)
6.2. AIR INLET MANIFOLD
6.3. TURBOCHARGER
6.4. EXHAUST SYSTEM
6.5. TURBOCHARGER CLEANING
6.1. AIR FILTER, OIL BATH (when fitted)
Fill the oil bath air filter up to the mark with the same grade of oil as used in the engine
sump and change the oil when sludge has formed.
To clean the filter, remove the element and clean with steam, or with hot water and any
commercial grease detergent; dry, oil and refit, noting that the felt end of the element
must be at the bottom.
Fabric elements may be cleaned by passing air at 2-3.5 bars (30-50 lb/sq.in) pressure
through the element in the reverse direction of the normal air flow DO NOT use diesel fuel
for washing fabric elements.
A detailed turbocharger manual is sent with every turbocharged engine and full use
should be made of this for installation and servicing procedure details.
In-built Air Filter - after cleaning the filter element in accordance with the maker's
instructions, it is recommended that the element be coated with clean engine oil, and
shaken, before reassembly to the turbocharger as this considerably improves filtration
efficiency.
Bearings
One spare set of bearings is supplied in the tool kit. Turbocharger bearings should be
renewed after every 8000 running hours.
Bearings may also need renewing if the shaft has been locked in emergency due to a
breakdown.
It will be appreciated that the exhaust temperature figures will vary slightly from one
engine to another but the figures for any one engine should be reasonably consistent.
Where engine room temperatures tend to be high, it is preferable to draw fresh air for the
intake through ducting from outside.
Individual cylinder head exhaust temperatures should not be allowed to deviate more
than +/- 150C from the mean for all cylinders at site rated full load conditions. For details
of how these are adjusted, see Section 3.5. (8).
After prolonged operation, fouling may cause the mean cylinder head exhaust
temperature to rise without a rise in the air manifold temperature. When this rise
approaches 300C above the site norm. on full load, this is an indication that servicing is
required, particularly to the turbocharger and injection equipment and cylinder head
assembly etc.
The mean cylinder head exhaust temperature will vary from the works test sheets in
accordance with site ambient conditions. These should be within +/- 300C of the site
exhaust temperatures given in the Applications print out issued with every W.O.C.
Should this tolerance be exceeded on commissioning, reference should be made to
Works Applications Department.
Maximum exhaust system back pressure after turbocharger is 305 mm (12in) w.g. with
engine running at full rated speed and 10% overload, without reference to the factory.
The exhaust system should be cleaned out when the engine is overhauled or when the
loss of engine power indicates the need.
a) Introduction
1) Under certain operating conditions or with certain fuels, it may be necessary to regularly
clean the turbochargers internal components.
NOTE: The equipment is not supplied unless specifically stated in the engine
supply documents.
2) Engines which normally run using light diesel fuel and have a clear exhaust discharge,
will not produce any accumulation of deposits in the turbocharger exhaust nozzle ring
blading or turbine wheel blading so do not usually need the water washing equipment.
The turbocharger is cleaned sufficiently frequently when mechanical considerations
necessitate stripping and dismantling of the turbocharger to fit new bearings, or even
when other turbocharger maintenance is necessary.
3) Engines running on heavy fuel have a higher incidence of accumulation of deposits due
to constituents of the fuel which are not totally consumed. These act as a binding agent
and can result in adherence and accumulation of deposits on the turbocharger exhaust
nozzle blading and turbine wheel blades. Similarly lubricating oil additives can also act
as a binding agent when an engine has a high lubricating oil consumption.
4) Running the engine when it is in poor condition or when it has developed a high
lubricating oil consumption, when a smoky exhaust discharge is also usually apparent,
will also result in some accumulation of deposits at the exhaust end of the turbocharger.
Under these conditions it is important to develop a suitable frequency of turbine
cleaning. In most cases, water washing is the best technique.
5) Generally a high load on the engine, preferably above 75% will result in a minimum of
incidence of turbocharger fouling. Due to high heat and gas velocity levels, combustion
products mostly remain in the gas stream and are discharged through to atmosphere.
1) Object
Practical experience has shown that for engines running on heavy fuels it is necessary
to periodically wash deposits off the turbine side of the turbocharger. The frequency of
cleaning depends upon operating conditions, and the quality of the fuel being
consumed.
When insufficient washing has resulted in heavy fouling of the inlet nozzle ring and of
the turbine blading this will be denoted by marginally increased cylinder outlet exhaust
temperatures and probably higher boost air pressures and also higher turbine speeds,
as compared to clean or as new engine/turbocharger performance. Cleaning of the
turbine end should then be employed. Generally, if cleaning is adopted it should be
carried out at intervals appropriate for the class of fuel in use. Initial trials should err on
the side of over-frequent as cleaning will not remove long established deposits. It is
important that the procedure should be started early in the life of a turbocharger and
should be done frequently. Depending on the quality of fuel in use, the starting point
may have to be as low as every 24 hours. If the fouling rate is low the intervals may be
extended by trial and error possibly up to 150 hours. The condition of the outlet water
is a useful guide. If still dirty after 5 or 6 minutes of washing, the frequency should be
increased. After cleaning, a complete set of engine and turbocharger performance data
should be taken at the same load conditions for direct comparison and for long term
trend analysis.
A general log should be kept of engine and turbocharger performance data at full load
or at as high a load as possible at regular intervals, but at the same load on each
occasion, and where possible at the same barometric air intake atmospheric pressure
and air manifold temperature.
Cleaning must not be carried out on a turbine that is suspected to be very heavily fouled.
Dislodging of deposits unevenly could result in dynamic out of balance of the rotor
assembly. Under such conditions the turbocharger must be dismantled and cleaned.
Similarly if there is any incidence of turbocharger vibration before or after water washing
the turbocharger must be completely dismantled and cleaned.
2) Equipment Required (See Fig.2)
1) The equipment required is obtained from Mirrlees Blackstone Limited and is engineered
to suit both the engine and turbocharger type.
2) The system most commonly supplied by Mirrlees Blackstone Limited uses water to
wash deposits off the turbine and consists of an engine mounted water supply system to
the turbocharger gas inlet.
3) The engine mounted system terminates in a 1/2 BSP coupling to which is coupled a
suitable clean water supply. Down stream of this is an isolating valve followed by a three
way valve which controls the supply of either water or bleed air into the wash system.
The system when not in use is kept free from carbon build up in the spray nozzles and
pipework, by a constant air bleed from the compressor side of the turbocharger.
4) A drain cock is provided to drain the exhaust casing. It must be possible to inspect and
measure the quantity of fluid drained during the washing operation.
5) A clean, fresh (not salt) water supply at a pressure of 3.5 to 5 bar (50 to 75 lb/in2) is
required from a suitable source. The supply should be coupled to the engine with the
flexible hose to enable easy removal.
6) During the washing operation most of the water evaporates and escapes with the engine
exhaust. The remainder drains out of the exhaust casing (0.1 litre per minute). The water
discharge is important because the deposits are removed not only by dissolving them
but also by the mechanical action of the water droplets impinging upon the affected
areas. If water does not discharge for the required length of time, the wash has not been
successfully carried out and the turbocharger will foul prematurely.
c) Washing Procedure
2) Turn the three way valve in the engine mounted pipework, to close off the air bleed and
open the system to water operation.
3) Fit a length of flexible hose between the engine and the fresh water supply.
6) Slowly open the main valve upstream of the removable pipe until the correct water flow
is achieved i.e. ensuring that water is draining from the exhaust casing at 0.1 litres
minimum 0.5 litres maximum, per minute. Care should be taken to avoid excessive flow,
as this can flood the labyrinth seal and contaminate the oil in the turbine bearing with risk
of subsequent failure. The valve should be opened slowly to minimise thermal shock.
7) If the required water flow cannot be achieved i.e. less than 0.l litres per minute, the load
on the engine should be reduced a little further to reduce the evaporation rate.
8) When the water draining out of the casing appears clean, probably after 5 to 10 minutes,
turn off the main cock.
10) Change the engine mounted three way valve back to the `air bleed'position to blow out
any water residue and prevent carbon formation.
11) Continue running the engine for 10 minutes at or above the power set by 4) above, to
ensure that all the washing water is evaporated to avoid bearing contamination and
turbine corrosion.
13) The water supply connection to the wash system must be disconnected after
completion. There must be no possibility of any unsupervised water supply into the
exhaust system.
SECTION CONTENTS
7.1. AIR STARTING SYSTEM
7.2. AIR START ASSEMBLY
7.3. BURSTING DISC (when fitted to starting air manifold)
7.1. AIR STARTING SYSTEM
Cam operated valves in the engine control gear release the compressed air to the air
operated lubricating oil priming pump when the lever is turned to PRIME and also to the
air start manifold when turned to START. Each air start tappet incorporates an air start
valve and is held off the cam at any other time by a spring. The starting air forces the
tappets onto the cams and the (tappet) valve for whichever cam is at peak will pass air to
the cylinder, causing the engine to start turning, and this starting air is released to the
cylinders in the firing order, entering via a spring loaded non-return valve in the cylinder
head. (See also Section 8.1).
The non-return valve in the cylinder head should be checked whenever the head is
decarbonised. At the same time a check should be made that the tappet is held clear of
the starting cam except during the starting cycle. The timing assembly seats on a
laminated joint to provide means of adjustment and there must be a 1.5 mm (0.06 in)
gap between the cam follower and the back of the
cam when the tappet is pushed fully down.
Each air receiver is fitted with a drain pipe extended to the lowest part of the receiver and
venting through a hand operated valve which should be opened periodically, before the
receiver is recharged, to expel any condensate.
Any Air Compressor used for re-charging the Air Receiver should be arranged to
cut-in as soon as the residual air pressure falls below 25 bar (360 lb/sq.in).
Where a relief valve is supplied for incorporation in the air receiver charging line, this is
set to open at 27.5 bar (400 lb/sq.in) and this setting should not be altered. Should it be
necessary to fit a new spring or other component, the valve should be reset to open at
27.5 bar (400 lb/sq.in). (See also Section 14.12).
The four setscrews holding the disc and its guard in place must be tightened down
evenly to a maximum torque of 1.4 Nm (10 lb.ft). A bursting disc is fitted if required by
Survey regulations.
SECTION CONTENTS
8.1. ENGINE CONTROL GEAR (Air Starting)
8.2. AUTOMATIC OR REMOTE CONTROL
8.3. GOVERNOR
8.4. FITTING CLEARANCES (all measurements taken cold)
8.1. ENGINE CONTROL GEAR (Air Starting)
On the control lever spindle are a double and a single cam. One half of the double cam
holds the fuel pump control spindle at the 'no fuel' position when the lever is at 'STOP'
and 'PRIME' but leaves it free to move at 'START' and 'WORK'. The other half of the cam
opens the air valve releasing starting air to the priming pump when the lever is at 'PRIME'
and 'START'. This same air valve also admits air to a reservoir to ensure that back-up
pressure is available at the low lubricating oil pressure trip to hold it out of engagement
until the engine driven oil pump is fully functioning. (See Plates 191/1 & 2 Parts
Catalogue Pub. 61).
The second cam opens a valve to admit starting air to the manifold when the lever is at
'START'.
The control gear may be removed by disconnecting the starting air connections, etc.,
removing the fixing screws, and lifting the housing off the dowels.
NOTE:- See under Safety Devices.
Where provision is made for remote control, starting and stopping can be initiated either
in the engine room - if the panel selector switch is set to 'Local' - or from the remote
position if it is set to 'Remote'. The emergency lubricating oil low pressure shutdown will
operate irrespective of the selector switch setting.
If there are no push buttons for starting and stopping an engine for testing purposes, an
engine with air starting can be started by manual operation of the solenoid air valve.
WARNING: Whilst the fuel racks are held at 'zero' when the control lever is at
'STOP', this does NOT prevent the engine from being turned over by the starting
air (or starting motor) if the starting signal is given. Before any work is begun on
either the engine or driven unit, the air supply or starting battery should be
DISCONNECTED. It is not safe to rely on the air (or current) just being turned off
at a valve (or switch) could be operated by mistake, with possibility of serious
consequences.
Solenoid Air Valve
The unit should be dismantled periodically and cleaned, paying special attention to the
air valve seal and seating, and to seals in the plunger unit. The filter element should be
cleaned by blowing out with compressed air. Lubricate moving parts with thin oil before
re-assembly.
How often the unit will require attention to ensure that it will function immediately when
required, will depend on the atmospheric conditions at the site and the likelihood of
corrosion.
Electric Starting
8.3. GOVERNOR
The engine may be supplied fitted with a Heinzmann electronic governor. In this case
the governor is mounted on a bracket at the rear of the camside of the engine whilst a
speed sensor is fixed inside the engine to monitor the crankshaft revolutions by sensing
the speed of the split-gearwheel. There is no requirement for a mechanical drive to the
Heinzmann electronic governor. It is energised to operate on a supply of 24 V DC from a
battery.
This governor operates the fuel pump rack position in the usual way via a springbox in
the linkage.
Alternatively a Woodward mechanical/hydraulic governor is mechanically driven in the
same position. In either case a governor manual will be supplied with the engine giving
relevant servicing and operating instructions.
With regard to the Heinzmann Electronic Governor being fitted to the engine, we would
advise the following limited adjustments may be made by the operator.
In general the system will have been fully set up at the factory and should need no further
adjustment. Should, however, a replacement Control Box, or Actuator have to fitted, the
following procedure should be carried out before attempting to start the engine:-
1) Remove the Control Box lid and connect the leads from a DC voltmeter to the feedback
test points (OV and TP6) on the control board.
2) Switch on 24 V DC power supply to the Control Box.
3) With the Governor output lever at 'zero fuel', the voltmeter should read 1.5V. For any
other reading, adjust the 'stop' potentiometer until the correct reading is obtained.
(Clockwise to increase voltage).
4) Move the governor lever manually to the 'full fuel' position. The voltmeter should read
5 V. For any other reading, adjust the 'max fuel' potentiometer until the correct reading is
obtained (clockwise to increase voltage).
5) Repeat steps (3) and (4) alternately until constant readings are obtained at both
settings. With the engine running on no-load, the following setting-up procedure can
be carried out. (This can also be done if improved response is required from an existing
installation).
6) Turn 'Gain' potentiometer slowly clockwise until engine starts to hunt. Then back-off
slightly until the engine runs smoothly.
7) Turn 'Stability' potentiometer slowly clockwise until engine starts to hunt. Then
back-off slightly until the engine runs smoothly.
8) Remove the test leads and replace the Control Box lid.
The Heinzmann E16 governor is further fitted with a fuel limiting device to improve
engine starting. Being adjustable, it is normally set at 60% of actuator travel.
SECTION CONTENTS
9.1. CUSH DRIVE
9.2. MAIN BEARINGS
9.3. CRANKSHAFT SPLIT GEARWHEEL
9.4. TORSIONAL VIBRATION DAMPER
9.5. FLEXIBLE COUPLING
9.6. FLYWHEEL
9.7. FITTING CLEARANCES
9.1. CUSH DRIVE
The cush drive (on the forward end of the crankshaft, transmitting the drive to the water
and oil pump idler gears) should be checked at times of major overhaul. 09.05 After
removal of the overspeed trip housing and carrier , check that the drive is being taken by
the rubber and not by the emergency drive key.
The main bearings are of the thin wall type. The housings are accurately machined
during manufacture of the engine and no scraping or filing of the shells or housings is
permissible.
4) Insert the tool (removal pin 70/97002) into the crankshaft oil hole and remove the bottom
half shell by turning the crankshaft. The bearing has a tang at one end which locates in a
recess in the housing casting. This recess can easily be seen, or felt with the finger, after
removal of the bearing cap. The tang is formed on the end that rests on the exhaust side
of the engine. The crankshaft must be turned so that the tool presses down on the other
end of the bearing, turning the tanged end out first. Therefore the crankshaft should be
turned clockwise as viewed from the free end to turn out the bottom shell.
Before refitting a main or large end bearing shell, check that there is some 'free spread',
i.e. that the ends of the shells have sprung slightly outwards (making the distance
between the outer edges of the butt faces greater than the diameter of the bearing
housing). This ensures that the ends of the shells will be nipped and fit snugly in the
housings or cap during refitting, with no danger of one shell becoming trapped inside
the end of the other shell and suffering damage.
If a shell does not 'spring' outwards slightly when removed from the engine, place the
shell - bearing face downwards - on the bench, hold a suitable piece of wood across
the back of the shell and give a sharp tap down on to the wood.
5) To re-assemble - lubricate the bore of each shell with lubricating oil before offering
each shell to the journal. The backs should remain 'dry' when fitting.
Start the bottom shell carefully by hand, with the plain end leading into the side with the
recess for the tang. As soon as possible, fit the tool in the crankshaft oil hole and fit the
dummy cap (from the tool kit, part number 31-900-021) so that the recess for the tang
can be clearly seen. (The fixing holes in the dummy cap are offset to permit this). Tighten
the cap nuts 'finger tight'. Note: It is imperative that the nuts are finger tight throughout
the operation. The dummy cap will prevent the bearing shell from springing away from
the crankshaft and allowing the tool to slide under the shell and do damage. Turn the
bearing shell in by rotating the crankshaft anti-clockwise and watch to see that the tang
enters the recess correctly. When the shell is right home, remove the dummy cap, and
the tool from the crankshaft oil hole. Ensure that the mating faces are clean before
refitting the top half bearing cap.
6) Refit all parts removed in steps 1-3, (resetting the crankshaft to T.D.C. with air and
exhaust valves all OPEN before refitting the camshaft drive gears and then removing the
timing plate, if working on number 1 bearing).
Refit the top half shell, cap, and nuts with new tabwashers. Tighten the nuts as follows
and re-lock. See Section 13.1 for main bearing cap nut torque.
To prevent damage to the bearing shell locating tang when tightening the main bearing
cap nuts, the nut(s) on the tang side is to be tightened first to full torque, followed by the
nut(s) on the other side.
Refit the oil pipe. Do not remove more than one bearing at a time.
The top thrust rings are both located by two screws secured with Loctite Stud Lock. The
screws should not be loosened unless it becomes necessary to renew the thrust rings,
when they should be turned by careful use of a screwdriver and re-locked following a
similar method to that described below for the cap studs.
If a new cap stud has to be fitted, both the stud and the threads in the engine bed should
be cleaned with trichlorethylene, and when this has completely dried, treated with
Locquic Primer 'T'. After allowing at least three minutes for the primer to dry, apply
Loctite Stud Lock 241 to the 'metal' end of the stud and fit the stud. (Do not apply an
excessive quantity of Loctite and do not apply any to the nut end of the stud). Allow at
least one hour for the Loctite to cure before use.
When a new insert is fitted to the gearwheel capscrew hole, the top of the insert must be
at least 16 mm (5/8") below the level of the top of the hole. (See Section 13.1 re torque).
There must be a gap of at least 0.05 mm above the top of the key (but preferably not
more than 0.1 mm).
A torsional vibration damper is fitted if the characteristics of the drive require one.
Various types of dampers are used. Alternatively, a tuning disc, similar to a flywheel,
may be fitted, the size depending on the torsional characteristics.
The damper must be renewed after every 24,000 hours running. Remove the forward
end cover to obtain access.
The types of coupling fitted to the E Mark 2 engine use rubber substance in the resilient
members and this medium may be either in compression ('Holset') or even in sheer - in
the form of bonded rubber segments (Vulcan).
Their selection depends upon the type of drive but whichever is finally fitted should need
little or no maintenance once it has been properly installed. It is, however, important that
oil or direct sunlight is not permitted to contact the rubber material as sometimes
damage can result.
The life of a flexible coupling, under good operating conditions, is considerable; they are
expected to give around 10 years service.
The coupling should nevertheless be inspected at least every 12,000 hours (4 years) for
cracking or perishing of the rubber material and to do this the rubber units should be
removed. At rest, the members should not be under stress and, dependent upon
design requirements, should be capable of removal without complete dismantling of the
installation.
Before removal, the rubbers should be marked with chalk to ensure their exact
re-location if still in sound condition. Any rubbers showing signs of ageing, distortion
or fatigue should result in a replacement set being fitted. Spares should only be
obtained nearer to the expected time of fitting, and then retained in a dark, dry place until
required.
It is worth remembering that prolonged rough running of the engine will seriously
shorten the life of the coupling members; whether the roughness is caused by engine
misfiring (as a result, for example, of faulty injection) or by some other malfunction.
9.6. FLYWHEEL
2) Remove nuts from the inner end of the eight flywheel bolts.
NOTE: The flywheel bolts are numbered and must be refitted in the
correspondingly numbered holes. When refitting the flywheel, ensure that the hole
numbered (o) coincides with (o) stamped on the crankshaft otherwise the timing
marks on the flywheel rim will be out of position.
9.7. FITTING CLEARANCES
CRANKSHAFT Millimetres Inches
Diametric clearance between main
bearing and crankshaft (new) 0.14-0.23 0.0055-0.0088
Maximum permissible diametric clearance
between main bearing and crankshaft 0.33 0.013
SECTION CONTENTS
10.1.FREE END COVER
10.2.BREATHER VALVE
10.3.CAMSHAFT
10.4.AIR AND EXHAUST VALVE TAPPETS
10.5.REFITTING DOOR SUPPORTS
10.6.FITTING CLEARANCES (all measurements taken cold)
10.1.FREE END COVER
1) Drain the fresh water system, disconnect and remove the suction and delivery pipes
from both fresh and raw water pumps.
3) Disconnect as necessary the lubricating oil piping to the priming pump, and, at the
pump, the pipes to and from the pressure pump(also the pipes to and from the
scavenge pump, if fitted).
4) Drain the sump. Remove the lubricating oil pumps and filler tube.
6) Remove the four setscrews holding the ring round the extension shaft (if fitted). Remove
ring and seal.
7) Remove the screws holding the extension shaft bearing and overspeed trip housing.
10) Take the weight of the control end cover. Remove the setscrews from around the outside
edge of the cover.
The free end cover may now be refitted, check for free movement of the pump drive gear
train. Fill and prime the fresh water and lubricating oil systems and prime the raw water
pump as detailed under 'Initial Start' (Section 15.1).
If access is required only to the overspeed trip or to the extension shaft bearings, steps
(5) to (8) above may be all the dismantling that is necessary.
10.2.BREATHER VALVE
If oil or oil mist escapes from the crankcase covers or from around the fly- wheel, check
the condition of the breather valve. Remove the diffuser and check for air pressure from
the small jet in the centre of the venturi tube.
10.3.CAMSHAFT
To renew the camshaft it is necessary first to remove the lubricating oil manifold - see
Section 4.3.
Next remove the tachometer generator, and then the camshaft bearing. Remove the
governor and drive. Remove the fuel, air and exhaust tappets, and, if necessary, the air
start tappets. Working through the holes in the cams haft gear, undo the screws in the
camshaft flywheel end bearing and pull the bearing along the shaft as far as possible.
Remove the camshaft bearing housing screws. Insert suitable long screws into the
holes in the housings to enable the camshaft to be drawn forward. Take the weight of the
shaft and lift it clear of the engine. When refitting the end bearing, ensure that the dowel
is located before tightening the capscrews.
Fit the new camshaft, ensure that it will revolve freely, and time it to the crankshaft. (See
below). Refit the remaining parts in the reverse of the dismantling sequence. Check the
backlash in the governor drive. Check tappet clearances, etc.
To check the camshaft end float, fix a dial test indicator to register on the side of the
camshaft drive gearwheel, then carefully lever the shaft lengthways to the full extent of its
travel, first in one direction and then in the other, noting the difference in dial readings.
the end float should be within the limits given in Section 10.5.
TIMING
When re-assembling an engine after overhaul, care must be taken, before re-fitting
the governor, to time the camshaft correctly in relation to the crankshaft as follows:-
1) Turn the camshaft by barring the crankshaft until the locating tooth of the timing gear
locating plate (supplied in Tool Kit) can be located in the space between the two teeth on
the camshaft drive gear marked with dots, and the dowels in the dowel holes provided in
the cylinder housing. Secure the gauge by setscrews in the bolt holes for the governor
housing. The camshaft is now held in position by the gauge and prevented from
rotating.
If No. 1 crank (flywheel end) is not now at T.D.C with air and exhaust valves both open on
Standard rotation engines (or both closed on a non- standard rotation engine),
according to the mark on the flywheel, as related to the mark cast on the camshaft side of
the end cover, proceed to step 2.
2) Remove the intermediate idler gearwheel in the camshaft drive, by removing the split
collar and sliding the gearwheel out of mesh. If it is necessary to remove the gearwheel,
withdraw the locating peg from the cylinder housing boss; fit an M16 x 2 withdrawal
screw; the idler shaft can now be withdrawn and the gearwheel and sleeve removed.
3) Bar the crankshaft round until No.1 throw is at T.D.C. according to the mark on the
flywheel (for method of establishing the exact position of T.D.C. see Step (4) under
'Camshaft Timing' below).
4) Refit the intermediate idler gearwheel. If, however, the teeth will not mesh at the first
attempt, remove the vertical screw, or latest engines have two M10 setscrew through the
flywheel cover, -withdraw the shaft (the end of the shaft is screwed M16 x 2) take the
weight of the compound gearwheel, turn it and try in various gearwheel positions until
the idler will mesh. The reduction gearwheel, having 56-26 teeth, gives a vernier effect.
When refitting the governor, check the backlash in the driving gear train - see Section
8.8.
In the event of a new camshaft or gear train being fitted, the camshaft must be re-timed
as follows before the governor is re-fitted:-
1) Set a dial indicator to register on the top of No.1 fuel tappet with the follower on the base
circle of the cam. Set the indicator to zero.
2) Turn the camshaft in its running direction until the tappet has risen:-
Lock the camshaft in this position using the timing gear locating plate secured by
setscrews in the bolt holes for the governor housing.
3) Remove the intermediate idler gearwheel from the camshaft drive.
4) Bar the engine in the running direction and set No.1 cylinder crankshaft throw at T.D.C.,
This can be checked with a clinometer.
An alternative method to check T.D.C. is to set a piston slightly before T.D.C., remove the
cylinder head indicator cock plug and insert the special probe (available if ordered). Bar
the crankshaft in the running direction of rotation and visually check when the tool
ceases to rise. This will fix T.D.C. approximately. Bar the crankshaft back until the probe
has dropped about 2.5 mm (0.1") - the piston is now B.T.D.C.
Clamp a dial test indicator to the cylinder head and set the gauge to register on the top of
the tool. Turn the crankshaft in running direction of rotation and mark the flywheel at the
point where the indicator shows the tool has just stopped rising. Continue turning the
crankshaft and again mark the flywheel where the indicator shows the tool begins to
move again. The point midway between the two marks may be taken as Running Top
Dead Centre.
5) Refit the intermediate idler gearwheel. (See 'Valve Timing' above, step 4 and the 'Note').
6) The camshaft is now timed to the crankshaft. At this point the timing gear locating plate
should be adapted for future use by fitting fresh dowels.
7) Check the backlash in the governor driving gear train. See Section 8.4 The backlash is
adjusted by varying as necessary the thickness of the laminated joint between the
governor housing and the cylinder housing. Refit a ll parts taken off the engine.
Re-prime the fuel system. Bar the engine two complete turns before fitting the doors.
10.4.AIR AND EXHAUST VALVE TAPPETS
The tappets should be checked when the cylinder head is serviced. See Section 11.1
(6).
To remove an air or exhaust valve tappet, first remove the cylinder head rocker box and
the push rod. Withdraw the push rod sleeve; an O ring in a recess in the tappet guide
forms a seal.
Next remove the four tappet fixing screws. Withdraw the tappet taking care not to
damage the three O rings. Make sure the tappet and roller assembly does not fall out of
the sleeve and cause damage.
After servicing/renewing parts as necessary, refit all parts in the reverse of the
dismantling sequence, making sure all O rings are in good condition and properly
seated.
Procedure for applying Hylosil in the recesses at the top and bottom of the crankcase
door supports, to prevent oil leaks between the door supports and housing.
PROCEDURE
1) Clean crankcase door support and adjacent cylinder housing with Hylomar 18A gasket
jointing solvent.
6) Repeat procedure 4 & 5, if the Hylosil sinks and is not level with the
top of the template.
7) Remove the paper template and clean any areas on the face of the
door supports where Hylosil has accidently spread.
SECTION CONTENTS
11.1.REMOVAL OF CYLINDER HEAD
11.2.SERVICING CYLINDER HEAD
11.3.CONNECTING ROD AND PISTON
11.4.SERVICING PISTON
11.5.TO DEGLAZE THE CYLINDER BORE
11.6.FITTING A NEW LINER
11.7.SMALL END BEARING RENEWAL
11.8.LARGE END BEARING INSPECTION/RENEWAL
11.9.REFITTING THE CYLINDER HEAD
11.10.FITTING CLEARANCES (all measurements taken cold)
NOTE: The cylinder heads with similar method of starting are all interchangeable.
It is therefore a good policy to carry one or more spare heads, permitting the
decarbonising of heads in turn - this reduces the time an engine is out of
commission to the time required for replacing each head taken off with one already
serviced.
11.1.REMOVAL OF CYLINDER HEAD
During the last run before stripping down, remove the rocker cover lids and make a
visual check whether the valves are rotating. If the rotators have failed, fit new ones. Also
check that there is an adequate flow of lubricating oil to the top of each push rod and to
each valve tappet; if the feed appears to be inadequate at any point, the feed channels
through the rocker levers should be checked for partial blockage when the levers have
been taken off the engine.
The cylinder heads may be lifted individually after draining the water to below the level of
the top of the cylinder housing without disturbing adjacent ones, and serviced as
follows:-
NOTE: As disassembly proceeds, parts should be match-marked as necessary
to ensure that all parts can be reassembled with exactly the same relationship to
one another as they had previously.
1) Remove fuel delivery and drain pipes from injector; remove injector from the rocker
cover lid, and lub oil feed pipe.
4) Bar the crankshaft until the piston is at T.D.C. on the firing stroke, i.e. with both air and
exhaust valves closed (see mark on flywheel).
5) Remove nuts then the rocker box complete with the rocker levers and bridges.
6) Remove the push rods. Remove push rod sleeves - if air and exhaust tappets are to be
serviced. See Section 11.10.
7) Remove the air manifold section. (See Section 6.2).
8) Remove the heat shield.
9) Remove the screws fastening the exhaust manifold flange to the cylinder head, also the
deflector plate.
10) Remove the water outlet connection to the water manifold.
11) Progressively loosen the cylinder head nuts. Remove the nuts.
12) Fit the lifting attachment over the rocker box studs, fit and tighten the nuts.
13) Lift the cylinder head vertically until it is clear of the starting air inlet connection, keeping it
level to prevent spilling water onto the top of the piston. It will help if the exhaust manifold
is pulled away from the head by hand during the lifting process. Place the head on its
side on a clean steel topped workbench.
11.2.SERVICING CYLINDER HEAD
NOTE: As disassembly proceeds, note the position of all O rings.
1) Remove the circlip retaining the valve spring collar/rotator with the special pliers
provided.* Remove the washer beneath the circlip. Fit the valve spring removal tool to
the rocker box studs. Working on each valve in turn, compress the valve springs by
screwing the tool to its full extent. This will permit the collets to be removed. Screw back
the tool to allow the springs to be removed. Note the position of each valve so that the
valves can be refitted to the correct seats.
2) Check the condition of the valve seats and regrind if necessary. Check the clearance of
the valve stems in their guides. Excessive stem clearance will cause rapid seat wear.
Renew guides if worn. (It is good practice to renew the guide whenever a new valve is
fitted). All parts must be thoroughly cleaned and washed in paraffin before
re-assembling. Also smear valve stems with copper grease before re-insertion into
their guides. Remove the injector tube nut and washers and withdraw the tube. Note the
order of the dished washers. The top of the tube is screwed G1 1/4 to enable a suitable
screw to be fitted, to act as a withdrawal tool. Clean all water passages. Renew the air
and exhaust valve springs if the free length is less than the minimum permissible figure
given under 'Fitting Clearances' - Section 11.10.
*These tools are included in the spanner kit (which is supplied of ordered).
The inlet and exhaust valve seats have inserts.
When it becomes necessary to renew an insert, a welding torch should be run round the
seating which will enable the insert to be lifted out carefully.
A new insert should be shrunk by cooling in liquid nitrogen before being fitted. (Marine
engines - this operation should be carried out on shore). As soon as the insert has been
placed in position, a valve may be inserted into the guide and tapped down with a soft
hammer to ensure that the inset is sitting squarely. This fitting procedure must be
carried out rapidly as the insert will quickly pick up heat from the cylinder head and then
be difficult to move.
Caution - all appropriate precautions must be taken to safeguard the operator
when using techniques involving the handling of super cooled components.
NOTE: Cylinder heads are interchangeable as indicated in Section 11.1.
At the time of decarbonising, clean the exhaust piping, silencer, air filters, etc.
1) After removal of the cylinder head, withdraw the flame ring from the top of the liner, so
that the piston, together with the connecting rod, can be withdrawn upwards through the
bore of the liner. (No attempt must be made to remove the piston and rod through the
side of the engine).
CAUTION: The cheeks of the connecting rod cap have been specially finished as
a bearing surface and must not be marked in any way whatever.
2) Attach the lifting bar to the top of the piston and prepare to take the weight of the piston
and rod. The lifting bar is secured by two setscrews.
3) With the crank a few degrees nearer to the operator than T.D.C., remove the upper two
bolts first (nearer to the operator), then slacken the remaining two bolts.
4) Carefully remove the cap, bolts and bearing shell. The cap is fitted with a pin at the lower
side to ensure correct assembly when refitting.
5) Lift the piston slightly and remove the other bearing shell. Fit the two retainers 70/35160
(supplied in the tool kit) to prevent damage to the edges of the rod from contact with the
liner or the crankpin. A suitable Allen Key is supplied for the captive screw in the
retainers.
6) Lift the piston and connecting rod out through the top of the liner bore and place on a
clean steel topped workbench, together with the cap and bearing shells for that rod.
7) Remove the lifting bar from the top of the piston, also the retainers from the rod.
11.4.SERVICING PISTON
1) Remove the rings, taking careful note of their position relative to the piston and to one
another as they must later be put back in the same grooves and the same way up as they
were fitted previously. Take care not to spring them too far during removal.
2) After carefully noting the relationship of the piston to the rod and pin, remove one circlip
and the gudgeon pin (if necessary warm the piston in oil to enable this to be done).
3) Clean the piston thoroughly inside and outside, taking particular care not to burr or
score the ring grooves during scraping. Check that oil holes in both piston and
connecting rod are clear. (Cleaning preparations are marketed which remove carbon
by solvent action without the need of scraping).
4) Check the rings individually in the lower liner bore for ring gap, ensuring that the ring is
not tilted. For permissible ring gap figures, see Section 11.10.
NOTE: The maximum permissible gap and side clearance quoted for rings are to
be considered as a guide only, as the time at which rings have to be changed will
ultimately be decided by blow-by becoming noticeable, high lubricating oil
consumption occurring and loss of compression.
5) Reassemble the rings to the piston (see remarks in (1) above), and check side clearance
of rings in grooves. The ring gaps must NOT be in line. Maximum side clearance for all
rings should not exceed the figure given in Section 11.10. Tapered fire and compression
rings must be fitted with the word 'TOP' stamped on the face with the smaller diameter,
towards the crown of the piston. (The word 'top' indicates which way up the ring is to be
fitted, and has no reference to the groove into which it is fitted).
Where a ring is fitted with an internal spring to expand the ring for optimum fit to the liner,
the spring should be fitted first, and then the ring fitted over the spring, with the gap in the
ring on the opposite side of the piston to the two ends of the spring.
6) Re-assemble the piston to the connecting rod, making sure that they are in the same
relationship to one another as before.
If refitting with the same piston rings and liner, see Section 11.8(6).
If fitting a new liner, proceed to Section 11.6. Otherwise if fitting new piston rings,
proceed as Section 11.5 below.
NOTE: Unless a new liner is fitted, it is advisable to roughen (deglaze) the bore
surface slightly, before fitting new piston rings, particularly if the bore has a highly
polished appearance, or has been in use for more than 5,000 running hours. The
purpose of this is to assist proper bedding in of the new rings by ensuring that the
bore surface has the best possible oil retaining properties.
1) Deglazing cylinder liners
It is recommended that the following equipment be used for de-glazing liners in situ.
This equipment has been designed to produce the required finish and can be operated
by the customer's engineers. It is available under part no. 69/92190.
2) Description
A motor, driven by compressed air and situated in the handle of the tool drives a vertical
shaft. The honing-head screws onto the drive shaft and the honing stones are each
secured to the head by two capscrews.
The feed or cut, adjusted by the feed adjuster, operates on the rack and pinion principle,
giving the hones a uniform adjustment.
It is important that the liner bore is cleaned after honing. This can be achieved by the use
of a hard hand-brush ensuring that the whole of the liner bore is adequately brushed.
A tray or container is required to prevent ingress of foreign matter into the sump. A
plastic bucket packed up from the crankshaft, can be used.
3) Technical Information
Motive Power Air motor, 80 lb/sq.in (5.5 bar)
100 rev/min
Control Manual
Delapena (Roughing) F3C
Honing stones (Finishing) F6C
Method of setting hones Set to the liner internal dia.
(with hones inside liner) by the
feed adjuster
Alignment of liner wall Self-aligning
Weight of honing head About 10 lb. (4.5 kg)
Honing Oil 'Fletcher Miller' ref. HBCILO*
Brushing & cleaning Wakefield ref. 0007*
Alternative for above oils Kerosene (Paraffin)
*Members of Burmah-Castrol Group
CAUTION: When using Kerosene (Paraffin), liners must be dried out immediately
the operation is completed and coated with engine lubricating oil.
4) Engine preparation
Remove rocker gear, cylinder head, crankcase doors, large end bearings, piston and
connecting rod.
Position the tray or bucket inside the crankcase to catch the honing and cleaning fluid.
Remove carbon from the liner and clean off with emery cloth and oil. Ensure that all
carbon deposits are removed before honing; carbon will foul the stones and could result
in damage to the liner.
5) Operation
Ensure that air is available at 80 lb/sq.in (4.5 bar) and that the air-line valve is closed.
The diameter of the stones is adjusted by the nut and collar on top of the honing head.
Two adjustments are available; coarse and fine.
To set the coarse adjustment, withdraw the centre spindle approximately 1" and turn
until the stones just contact the liner. Replace the centre spindle and using the fine
adjustment, set the stones to give the correct pressure on the liner.
To deglaze fully hone liners the following procedure should be carried out:
Using the standard deglazing equipment with Delapena stones F3C (coarse) and F6C
(fine).
Stage 1
Fit F3C (coarse) stones. Hone liner for 30 complete strokes with regular (average 5
strokes) adjustments of the deglazing head to maintain stone pressure on the liner wall.
Paraffin should be liberally applied during the operation as a lubricant. This should give
a 30 to 50 micro inch CLA finish.
Stage 2
Fit F6C (fine) stones. Hone liner for 10 complete strokes with regular (average 5 strokes
as in stage 1) adjustments. This will then give the 12 to 24 micro inch CLA bore finish.
11.6.FITTING A NEW LINER
Remove the locating screw and press out the old bush.
To prevent scuffing when passing in a new steel backed small end bush, it is
recommended that an extreme pressure lubricant be used, such as one of the
molybdenum disulphide compounds. The bush should be pressed in with the clinch
joint at 90 deg to the long axis of the rod. After the bush has been pressed right home, a
hole must be drilled 9.525-9.70 mm (0.375"-0.382") diameter, the drill entering
through the bush peg hole and drilling through BOTH sides of the bush. This is vital as
otherwise the bush will not be lubricated when the engine is running. Special care must
be taken to ensure that no particles of metal are left in the oil hole running through the
length of the rod.
Refit the bush locating screw. The rod must next be drilled to continue the two oil spray
holes through one side of the bush (into the groove) using 3.2 mm (0.126") diameter
drill, making sure that no burrs are left on the inner surface of the bush.
11.8.LARGE END BEARING INSPECTION/RENEWAL (without removing connecting rod
from engine) See also Section 9.2 (4) regarding 'free spread'.
Note: Admission to the Connecting Rod Caps is normally through the EXHAUST
side door.
The large end bearings can be removed for inspection and refitted or renewed without
removing the piston and rod from the engine, but care must be taken not to damage a
rod in any way, especially the bearing surfaces. See above in this section. The lifting of
the piston is a two-man job, as the rod must be supported from the camshaft side of the
engine, using a wooden lever (without knots) - say 1000 x 75 x 50 mm (40" x 3" x 2") -
whilst the shell is being removed from the rod.
Alternatively, if the piston and rod have been withdrawn, the large end bearing should be
inspected before refitting.
1) Check the condition of the shells.
2) Plug the crankpin oil hole with rag and remove any roughness from the crankpin with an
oil stone and very fine emery cloth.
3) Thoroughly clean the crankpin and remove rag plug from oil hole. Oil the crankpin.
4) Examine the bore of the connecting rod for bruising or burrs, which would prevent the
bearing shells sitting snugly into the rod.
5) Ensure that connecting rod bore and bearings shells are perfectly clean.
No scraping is permissible as the shells are machined to the highest standard of
accuracy.
6) Refitting piston and connecting rod (See also Section 9.2 (4) re 'free spread').
When refitting a rod, first fit the two retainers 70/35160 (supplied in the tool kit) to prevent
damage to the edges of the rod from contact with the liner or the crankpin. The shell
should be fitted to the rod and held in position whilst the rod is passed through the bore
and until the bottom shell and cap are about to be fitted. A suitable Allen Key is supplied
for the captive screw in the retainers.
Fit the rod and piston through the bore of the liner. (No attempt must be made to refit
through the side of the engine).
It is essential to use the piston ring guide to bridge the flame ring recess and lead the
rings into the bore. (Ring Guide - part number E276.
The bearing shells should be applied 'dry' to their respective rod ends and caps, and
immediately upon fitting, the running surfaces - together with each crankpin - should
be smeared with clean engine lubricating oil. Beware of airborne grit adhering to the
wetted surfaces before pressing the bearing home.
NOTE: When re-assembling, the tabwashers must be fitted with the tabs
projecting beyond the edge of the cap. Also, if the rods are fitted with double
hexagon headed bolts of 24 mm diameter, both the threads and beneath the head
must be smeared with selected molybdenum disulphide paste - our part number
99/46806 - before insertion.
After re-assembling the bearing and screwing
all four bolts finger tight, tighten the lower two
bolts fully - for torque see Section 13.1 - before
beginning to tighten the upper two bolts (to the
same torque as the lower bolts). It is essential
that all four bolts are tightened to the correct
torque. Special torque multiplier kit available, pt.
no. 89/55942.
Check the total side clearance between the
bearing surfaces of the crankshaft and rod, as
Measuring Connecting
follows:-
Rod End Float
a) Turn the crankshaft to a suitable position and
mount a dial type indicator on the crankshaft as
shown in the sketch. (A block with a magnetic base simplifies this operation).
b) Move the connecting rod sideways to take up all the side clearance at both ends of the
rod in one direction, taking great care not to damage the surface of either the rod or the
crankshaft in any way.
c) Position the indicator to register on the flat of the rod and set the indicator to read zero.
d) Move both ends of the rod sideways in the other direction to take up all the side
clearance at both ends, and check the indicator reading, which should be between
0.38-0.51 mm (0.015" and 0.020").
e) Move the rod back at both ends, and check that the indicator returns to zero.
f) A reading of less than 0.38 mm (0.015") indicates that the cap is not central on the rod;
tighten the bolts and repeat the side clearance check.
g) When the side clearance is satisfactory, position the rod to give equal clearance at both
sides and bend the tabwasher lugs down to lock the bolt heads.
h) Remove the indicator and mounting block, etc.
i) Refit the flame ring to the liner ensuring the ring is clean and inserted the correct way up.
New connecting rod bolts should be fitted after every 18,000 hours running.
NOTE: As re-assembly proceeds, ensure all the `O' rings are refitted in good
condition (or renewed).
1) Re-assemble in the reverse order of
dismantling MAKING CERTAIN THAT
THE INLET AND EXHAUST VALVES ARE
PUT BACK IN THEIR CORRECT
POSITIONS. The collets are numbered in
pairs and should be refitted accordingly.
Also when refitting the injector tube, note
that the `O' ring in the lower groove is of
special heat resistant material and any
replacement ring must be to the correct
part number (and not just any `O' ring of
the correct size). Rings supplied as
spares are normally given a distinctive
green colour. The stack of 4 dished and 2 flat washers is to be fitted (from the bottom);
1st flat, 2nd and 4th dished down, 3rd and 5th dished up and 6th flat beneath the brass
ring nut. Renew the cylinder head gasket if damaged.
2) Refit the cylinder head and tighten down all the nuts progressively. Assuming the studs
are numbered in sequence, the two farthest from the crankshaft centre-line being
numbers 1 and 4, tighten progressively in the following sequence:-
Release all the cylinder head nuts and then tighten to the increased torque figures in
stage Nos. 5, 6 and finally 7.
Before fitting the valve bridge on the guide ensure that an application of molykote is
made to both the valve bridge bore (especially at the open end) and the guide.
3) Place the air valve bridge on the guide with the adjuster screwed well back and the
non-adjustable end resting lightly on the valve stem nearer the camshaft side.
NOTE: Each guide, bridge and rocker must be in the same position as previously.
Screw down the adjuster until it just touches the stem of the valve nearer the exhaust side
and lock with the nuts. (The non-adjustable end must be just resting on its valve stem
all the time this adjustment is being made). Repeat with the exhaust valve bridge.
Remove both bridges and fit them into the rocker box. See torque on bridge nuts in
Section 13.1
4) Turn the crankshaft until the piston is at T.D.C. with the followers of the air and exhaust
cams both on the backs of the cams.
5) Fit the rocker box and tighten the nuts progressively to the torque given in Section 13.1
Tappet Adjustment (for inlet and exhaust valves)
NOTE: First verify that valve bridges bear EVENLY on each valve pair. See (3)
above.
6) Set the clearance between the air valve bridge and the rocker. See Section 11.10 for
clearance. Set the exhaust valve bridge to rocker clearance similarly to appropriate
figure. (Loosen the locking nut, screw the adjuster to obtain the correct clearance,
tighten the locking nut whilst holding the adjuster to stop it from turning. Check the
clearance).
7) Fit the rocker cover lid. Fit the injector (having checked the release pressure - see
Section 3.7) - using a new copper washer if the old washer is hard or damaged. See
Section 13.1 for torque on injector nuts. Fit the fuel delivery and drain pipes.
8) Refit the exhaust thermometer, water outlet pipe, exhaust and air inlet connections, etc.
9) After re-assembly and turning by hand to ensure that there is no undue stiffness, the
engine should be run for ten minutes. Then examine the bearing(s) by feel to ensure that
over-heating is not occurring. If a bearing has overheated during the trial run,
re-check the assembling of the bearing and the condition of the surface of the crankpin.
In order to allow new rings to bed in, full load should not be applied to the engine
immediately, but built up in stages over a period of approximately eight hours.
10) With the acidoil gasket, the torque on the cylinder head holding down nuts should be
checked after 30-50 hours running, whilst the engine is hot. With the Ferroflex gaskets
this is no longer necessary. Tappet clearances, however, should be re-checked when
the engine is cold.
Millimetres Inches
LINER
Nominal bore of liner (new) 222.25-222.30 8.750-8.752
Maximum permissible wear in liners -
When excessive blow-by occurs as
indicated by low maximum pressures
and high lubricating oil consumption.
CONNECTING ROD
Diametric clearance between gudgeon 0.120-0.155 0.0045-0.006
pin and bush (new) 'Small end'
Diametric clearance between
con. rod bearing and crankpin
(new) 'Large End' 0.150-0.230 0.006-0.009
Maximum permissible diametric
clearance between large end
bearing and crankpin 0.30 0.012
Large end bearing side clearance 0.38-0.51 0.015-0.020
RINGS
Ring gap (closed) new
Top Ring 0.5-0.8 0.020-0.031
2nd & 3nd Rings 1.5-1.8 0.060-0.071
Oil Control Ring 0.64-1.14 0.025-0.045
Clearance of rings in grooves
(new) Top 0.08-0.17 0.003-0.007
2nd & 3nd Rings 0.08-0.13 0.003-0.005
Oil Control Ring 0.05-0.11 0.002-0.005
Maximum permissible clearance
of rings in grooves
Top 0.32 0.013
2nd & 3nd Rings 0.25 0.010
Oil Control Ring 0.23 0.009
Millimetres Inches
Maximum permissible ring gap
Top Ring 1.5 0..059
2nd & 3nd Rings 2.25 0.088
Oil Control Ring 1.5 0.059
VALVES
Valve stem diameter - Inlet 18.90-18.92 0.744-0.745
Valve stem diameter - Exhaust 018.90-18.92 0.744-0.745
Diametric clearance between
valve stem and guide (new)-
Inlet 0.060-0.100 0.0023-0.0039
Exhaust 0.080-0.121 0.003-0.005
Maximum permissible diametric clearance
Inlet or Exhaust 0.25 0.010
Valve tappet clearance, between
rocker and valve stem, cold -
Inlet 0.51 0.020
Exhaust 1.52 0.060
VALVE SPRINGS
Valve springs, inlet and exhaust
Inner spring - free length - new 97.5 3.839
Outer spring-free length-new 107.5 4.232
Minimum permissible free length
Inner spring 92.5 3.65
Outer spring 102.0 4.02
ROCKER LEVER
SECTION CONTENTS
12.1.SPRING LOADED FUEL PUMP RACK
12.2.OVERSPEED TRIP
12.3.ENGINE LUBRICATING OIL LOW PRESSURE TRIP
12.4 PROCEDURE FOR CHECKING LOW LUB. OIL SHUTDOWN DELAY TIME WHEN
BOOST OPERATED START FUEL LIMIT DEVICE IS FITTED
12.5.EXPLOSION RELIEF VALVE
12.6.FIVE-WAY ALARM PANEL C/W AUTOMATIC SHUTDOWN SYSTEM FACILITY
(OPTIONAL)
12.7.TACHOMETER
12.8.THERMOMETERS
SAFETY DEVICES
All engines are normally fitted with safety devices to protect against possible damage
resulting from jammed fuel rack(s), too high a speed or inadequate lubricating oil
pressure. All these devices are strictly mechanical in operation. Explosion relief valves
are also usually fitted.
Each fuel rack is fitted with a spring between the adjusting lever arm and the adjusting
lever. Should one pump stick in the full load or overload position, the spring will open as
the spindle moves the remaining pump racks towards the 'fuel off' position, allowing
them to retain their freedom of movement. (See sketch in Section 3.5).
12.2.OVERSPEED TRIP
The overspeed trip setting is 20% above rated speed unless required otherwise by
Survey Rules or for some other special reason.
The trip comprises two elements - an eccentric, circular weight fixed to a carrier on the
crankshaft extension by a pivot at one side and an adjustable spring at the other; and a
linkage - strongly spring loaded - which can move the fuel pump control spindle to
withdraw the racks but is held inoperative during normal running by a pawl fitted in the
trip housing.
If the set speed is exceeded the weight is thrown outwards by centrifugal force, hits and
moves the pawl, releasing the spring loaded linkage to move the fuel pump racks to the
'no fuel' position, stopping the engine.
A screwdown non-return safety valve is fitted in the air start system to marine
applications and auto-air start sets to isolate the engine whilst maintenance or repair is
in progress.
2) With the engine running on NO LOAD, observe the tachometer whilst gradually
increasing the engine speed by hand (by fitting an adjustable spanner to the control
lever in the linkage from the governor to the fuel pump control spindle and exerting just
enough force to override the governor, taking the utmost care to ensure that the engine
speed does not rise unduly high). Note the speed at which the overspeed device
operates. This should be 20 per cent above the rated engine speed. (See above).
The overspeed trip is accurately set before the engine leaves the Works. If, due to
replacement of any parts or to stripping down, this setting has been lost, the trip should
be reset as follows:-
Access for adjusting the tension on the weight spring is obtained by removing one of the
plugs in the shoulders of the housing. For the re- designed weight assembly, only the
right hand plug - looking on the forward end of the engine - need be removed, and the
flywheel then barred over until the adjuster may be easily reached.
Slack off the locknut and turn the adjuster anti-clockwise to increase the speed setting
or clockwise to reduce the speed; tighten the locknut (using a box spanner and a screw
driver to prevent the adjuster from turning).
N.B. One turn on the adjuster is approximately equivalent to 25 rpm.
12.3.ENGINE LUBRICATING OIL LOW PRESSURE TRIP
The L.O. L.P trip is fitted behind the engine control (A) (see illustration in Section 4) and
comprises a piston assembly with a heavy spring (B) on one end and a projection on the
other end which, under conditions of low lubricating oil pressure, connects with a pin (C)
in the arm (D) from the fuel pump control spindle (E) and holds all the fuel pumps in the
'no fuel' position.
Oil is supplied via a spring loaded piston valve (F) to the underside of the piston (G) and
as the pressure rises, the piston is forced back, freeing the racks for governor control.
(Path of oil for rising pressure shown as H-J-K).
If the pressure drops unduly during normal running, the piston valve cuts the supply line
to the piston and vents all the oil under the piston to the engine sump, whereupon the
racks are at once moved back to the 'no fuel' position, a spring box in the governor to
fuel pump control spindle absorbing the force from the governor. (Path of oil venting
shown as L-M-N).
No servicing should be needed unless a spring breaks when a new spring should be
fitted but no adjustment is necessary.
2) Check (by feeling the linkage from the governor to the fuel pump control spindle) that the
fuel pump control spindle is held rigid in the 'no fuel' position.
3) Use the priming pump to provide oil pressure and check that the racks become free.
NOTE: Care must be taken not to move the engine control lever to 'START' if the
engine is not ready.
4) Stop priming and check that the linkage begins to move towards 'no fuel' (proving that
the main spring is functioning correctly) and then suddenly moves the rest of the way
and remains locked at 'no fuel'. The sudden movement indicates that the piston valve is
also functioning correctly.
In case of doubt, check the two springs in the trip and for free movement of the piston
valve.
12.4.PROCEDURE FOR CHECKING LOW LUB. OIL SHUTDOWN DELAY TIME WHEN
BOOST OPERATED START FUEL LIMIT DEVICE IS FITTED
1) Ensure air-start system is fully charged before undertaking the setting procedure.
2) Disconnect the air supply to the engine and remove the air start manifold inlet plpe and
fittings, then plug the air outlet in the engine control housing.
3) Disconnect governor linkage from the fuel pump layshaft by removing the nut and bolt
from the linkage.
4) Fully close valve `B'. Do NOT adjust again (This is now used as a non-return valve).
KEY
5) Fully close valve A" then open a 1/4 of a turn to give approx. first setting (Ensure that air
can bleed off through the valve).
Every 6,000 hours running or biennially - whichever is the sooner, clean the wire gauzes
in paraffin or similar solvent and dry before refitting. Inspect the O ring and if it requires
renewal, peel off the old ring and scrape away all the old adhesive with a 5 mm wooden
dowel or other suitable tool of soft material. Apply Dow 'Silastic 732 RTU' or equivalent
sealant adhesive, press the new ring carefully into the groove and place the carrier
assembly face down on a flat surface for 15 minutes. Re-assemble the valve. The
adhesive will be completely set in 24 hours.
NOTE: The O ring is a non-standard size; it is therefore good practice to have
spares available. (Part number 98/60647).
Where a two stage alarm system is supplied (giving warning of an unhealthy condition
arising) the following panel system procedure operates:-
a) First stage pre-warning sensor operates, giving visual indication and audible bell
alarm.
b) Second stage warning sensor operates, giving visual indication and audible siren
alarm.
OR
Optional fault four (1st stage)
(Sensor operational only when Common 6
engine running) 1st stage 10
Optional fault four (2nd stage)
(Sensor operational only when Common 6
engine running) 2nd stage 15
5) Optional fault five (1st stage)
(Sensor operational whether Common 17
engine running or not) 1st stage 11
Optional fault five (2nd stage)
(Sensor operational whether Common 18
engine running or not) 2nd stage 16
OR
Optional fault five (1st stage)
(Sensor operational only when Common 6
engine running) 1st stage 11
Optional fault five (2nd stage)
(Sensor operational only Common 6
when engine running) 2nd stage 16
If the engine is running, the protection system operational, and all the conditions healthy,
only the Supply On" and Protection Live" indicators will be illuminated.
Press the lamp test" push button to check that all indicators are in working order. On
the occurrence of a fault, the appropriate indicator will illuminate and the audible bell (1st
stage) will operate. To cancel audible alarm press the mute bell" push button. The
system will automatically clear itself if the fault clears, but if the fault deteriorates further
then the second stage procedure will operate in two ways:-
or
b) with shutdown (respective 2nd stage fault via shutdown selector strip-fit diodes
DL1 to DL5 as required).
In both cases the appropriate indicator will remain illuminated and the audible siren (2nd
stage) alarm will operate. To cancel audible alarm press the mute siren" push button.
The 2nd stage fault, unlike the 1st stage fa ult, will latch in and can only be reset when the
fault has been rectified by pressing the fault reset" push button. In the case of (a) any
other 2nd stage fault may operate and the process would be repeated. In the case of (b)
this will lock out any other faults apart from the respective shutdown fault that has
occurred. After the engine has shut down, the control lever should be returned to the
stop position ready for a further start sequence.
It is important that the resistance in the wiring should not be high enough to cause an
appreciable drop in voltage, also that the battery should be kept well charged, as the
system will not operate satisfactorily if the voltage, measured at the alarm panel terminal
board, is below 20 volts.
To check the high temperature sensors, remove the sensor from the engine and
immerse in hot water, then check for continuity; the points should be closed when the
setting temperature is exceeded. The sensors are set to operate at the following figures
(unless stated otherwise on any drawing sent with the engine):-
If the balance tank is mounted more than the standard distance above the crankshaft,
the fresh water pressure setting should be increased by 0.21 bars (3 lb/sq.in) for every
2.1 m (7 ft) extra height.
For adjusting the setting of Amot switches, see instruction label under the cover of the
switch.
A minimum clearance of 1.6 mm (1/16") must be maintained between the stop unit
tappet and the lever of the fuel pump control spindle with the unit latched and the pump
racks in the overload position. Should this clearance be reduced it will be found
impossible to obtain overload on the engine (or full load - propulsion engines).
PRESSURE SWITCHES
During major overhauls of the engine it is recommended that all pressure switches are
tested as follows:-
A hand pump (A) capable of producing a fluid pressure of 2.76 bar (40 lb/sq.in.) is
connected to a pressure gauge (B) and to the pressure connection to the pressure
switch (C).
KEY
A Hand pump
B Pressure gauge
C Pressure warning unit
D Battery
E Bell or lamp
end of the mercury column against the top of the bore is as small as possible. When the
two columns have re-joined, gradually bring the instrument to a horizontal position and
lower the bulb end very slowly and it will be found that in almost all cases the whole
mercury column will flow in one continuous stream back into the bulb.
Care should be taken to see that in thermometers with safety (expansion) chambers at
the top of the bore, no particles of mercury remain lodged therein.
TORQUES
SECTION CONTENTS
13.1.TORQUES ON NUTS
13.2.TIGHTENING BOLTS/NUTS
13.1.TORQUES ON NUTS (see also under Section 1.2 (4)
*Cylinder head nuts (31 120 740) 46mm A/F (See 'Refitting Cylinder Head, Section
11.9)
Stage 1 339-353 NM 250-260 lb.ft.
Stage 2 610-678 NM 450-500 lb.ft.
Stage 3 949-997 NM 700-735 lb.ft.
Stage 4 1492-1559 NM 1100-1150 lb.ft.
Release all the cylinder heads and re-tighten as per stages 5, 6 and 7 below.
Stage 5 678 NM 500 lb.ft.
Stage 6 1228 NM 900 lb.ft.
Stage 7 1763 NM 1300 lb.ft.
Cylinder head studs (into cylinder
housing) (Blind nut) 46mm A/F 680 NM 500 lb ft
Rocker box nuts (10 091 005) 19mm A/F 88 NM 65 lb ft
Injector inlet connector (31 230 210) 24mm A/F 68 NM 50 lb ft
Injector fixing nuts (10 091 004) 17mm A/F 41 NM 30 lb ft
Injector nozzle nut (31 230 130) 32mm A/F 244 NM 180 lb ft
*Connecting rod bolts (single hexagon type)
See Section 11 8(6) (70 61990) 32mm A/F 420 NM 310 lb ft
*Connecting rod bolts (double hexagon type)
See Section 11 8(6) (70 22000) 30mm A/F 540 NM 400 lb ft
Main bearing cap nuts - see under 'Main
Bearings', Section 9 2
(Single nut) (31 124 620) 41mm A/F 680 NM 500 lb ft
(Double nut) (31 124 720) 30mm A/F 340 NM 250 lb ft
Crankshaft balance weight bolts
(31 170 710) 36mm A/F 680 NM 500 lb ft
Free end extension shaft nuts (10 191 392) 32mm A/F 340 NM 250 lb ft
Split gearwheel screw (Capscrew) 14mm A/F 204 NM 150 lb ft
female
Flywheel to crank flange nut (10 191 394) 41mm A/F 680 NM 500 lb ft
To obtain a torque of 680 NM (500 lb.ft.) at the main bearing nuts (or flywheel nuts), use
Torque Wrench (99/48397) SE TO 530 NM (390 lb.ft.) together with 'C' Extension
(69/92200) and 41mm socket (99/48404).
NOTE: For greatest accuracy keep socket, wrench and hand in as straight a line
as possible.
Alternatively, a special torque application kit for main bearings is available through
agents of Stamford Spares Department (part no. 90 00248).
ENGINE OPERATION
SECTION CONTENTS
15.1. INITIAL STARTING
15.2. NORMAL OR DAILY STARTING (Standard air starting)
15.3. MANUAL STARTING OF ENGINE WITH AUTOMATIC OR REMOTE START FACILITY
15.4. RUNNING THE ENGINE
15.5. ENGINE ON STANDBY DUTY OR NOT RUN DAILY
15.6. STOPPING THE ENGINE
15.7. MANUAL STOPPING OF ENGINES WITH AUTOMATIC OR REMOTE CONTROL
FACILITY
15.8. LAYING UP THE ENGINE
15.9. ROTATION - To Reverse Direction
CONTRACTUAL INFORMATION
15.10 START/STOP PROCEDURE (MECHANICAL)
15.11 GENERAL OPERATING PROCEDURE (ELECTRICAL)
15.1. INITIAL STARTING
Before starting the engine for the first time, the operator should read carefully the starting
and stopping instructions below and also that part of the Introduction headed 'Maintenance
and Overhaul' - which should be kept in mind in all work on the engine.
Initial Starting
1) Before starting a new engine, or before starting after a complete overhaul, the following
points should be observed ((1a) and (1b) apply to new or laid up engines only):-
b) Before leaving the Works, every engine is treated internally by spraying with a
protective coating. As much of this as possible should be removed from working
surfaces (such as cams, etc.) with a rag damped with paraffin or oil. What is left will
dissolve in the lubricating oil when the engine is running, without harming the oil.
NOTE: (Use good quality rag - NOT cotton waste). The protective coating can be removed from
exposed bright parts with paraffin, petrol, diesel fuel or a suitable alkaline cleaner. Remove any
protective covering from around the turbocharger intake filter.
Starting Air
2) The air receiver should be charged up by means of a compressor. (See Section 7.1).
3) Fill the engine water cooling system with clean soft water, making sure that the system is
properly vented. (Radiator cooled engines with intercoolers - fill this system also with
clean soft water. Allow radiator to st and for half an hour, then re-check the water level).
Grease the water pump gland(s) (pumps fitted with gland packing). Where a turbocharger
is fitted, check the jacketing of the casings by unscrewing the drain cocks or by slacking off
connections until water flows. Before starting a turbocharger engine that has been standing
for four weeks or more, drain any accumulated moisture from the compressor outlet casing
and the turbine outlet casing by removing the drain plugs.
Fuel
4) Fill the fuel storage tank(s) with clean fuel oil, and fill the daily service tanks. Open the
supply cock to the engine and vent both bowls of the filter. Slacken one of the plugs at the far
end of the fuel manifold and vent the manifold.
Lubricating Oil
5) Fill the sump/tank with fresh lubricating oil to the top mark on the dipstick. Open the valve
on the air receiver, move the control handle to 'Prime' (but not beyond) and vent both bowls
of the lubricating oil filter. Continue priming (using one filter bowl only), until the oil
pressure reaches 0.25 bar. (4 lb/sq.in) for 15 seconds. Move the control handle back to
'STOP'. Close the valve on the air receiver. (See Section 4.1).
6) Fill the turbocharger oil reservoirs to the correct level with a suitable grade of lubricating oil
as shown in Section 4.
7) If a Woodward governor is fitted check the level of the oil. (See Section 4.4). Set load limit
to '5' (other than on automatic start sets). Lubricate the ball ends and springbox of the fuel
control linkage.
8) Fill any outer bearing with appropriate oil. (See Section 4.1).
Controls
9) Set control lever to STOP position, bar the engine round at least two complete revolutions
to ensure that the engine is free from undue friction, and that nothing has been left inside to
interfere with the working parts. (Engines with bell housings have a barring bobbin on the
forward end extension shaft).
NOTE: To enable the crankshaft to be turned by hand, the cylinder head plugs (Pub. 61 - ref.
030-01-75) should first have been removed. Remember to replace before attempting to start
up.
10) Refit all engine covers, etc., ensure that the driven unit is ready to run.
11) Open the valve under the water make-up tank and the raw water valves. Prime the raw
water pump.
Starting
14) Re-prime the lubricating oil system then turn the control lever to START. The engine
should immediately turn under the action of the compressed air. As soon as the engine is
turning at a fair speed move the control lever to the WORK position, when the engine will
accelerate to the operating speed, and the air starting supply will be cut off. Woodward
Governor - move the load limit to '10'.
16) Vent the intercooler cooling water system at the highest point.
Initial Checks
17) Check the water pressure gauge to ensure circulation of the engine jacket cooling water.
Also check raw water flow (or switch on radiator fans). Ensure that the engine protection
circuit (if fitted) is operative.
18) The lubricating oil pressure should be maintained as close as possible to the figure given
under Technical Data", and, when the engine has attained its normal operating
temperature, should not at full speed conditions be allowed to fall below this figure. Any
sudden or gradual drop in pressure should be investigated and the cause rectified.
NOTE: Should the gauges indicate a pressure more than 0.35 bars (5 lb/sq.in) above normal
when the engine has been running for more than 30 minutes or the oil has reached normal
operating temperature, the oil pressure relief valve must be adjusted until the pressure drops to
normal.
19) It will generally be found that the consumption of lubricating oil during the first few hours'
running is apparently above normal, but this is due to a film of oil being given to the whole of
the inside of the engine.
20) Check for water in the air manifold by momentarily opening the drain cock.
22) Check and, if necessary, make final adjustment to the setting of the fresh water control
valves to suit site conditions. See detailed instructions in Section 5.3
2) Check the levels of the engine (and turbocharger) lubricating oil, and of the fuel and fresh
water header tanks, (marine engine - making allowance if the ship is not on an even trim,
also lubricating oil dipstick readings may be inaccurate when a dry sump engine is not
running).
3) Check that the valves on the raw water supply are open.
4) Check that the fuel cock on the daily service tank is open.
5) (Dry sump engine - open the valve in the return pipe from the lubricating oil tank to the
pressure pump). Prime the engine lubricating oil system.
6) See that the control lever is at STOP. Woodward Governor - set the load limit to '5'.
9) Turn the control lever to PRIME then to WORK. Woodward Governor - move the load to
'10' when the engine is up to nominal speed.
10) Close the valve on the air receiver. Check lubricating oil pressure and the flow of fresh and
raw water (or turn on radiator fans).
11) Close the air inlet manifold drain cock(s) (intercooled engines). Turn on the Engine
Protection Circuit (if fitted).
12) Marine engines - check the level of the lubricating oil again when the ship is on an even
trim.
14) Recharge the air receiver (after venting if necessary through the drain valve).
3) Turn on compressed air supply. Move the engine control lever to the 'run' position.
5) Operate the solenoid air valve manually by pressing on the return stop lever. The engine
should then start. Release the return stop lever.
If the cylinder head has been removed and refitted with the Acidoil Gasket,check the
tightness of the nuts after the first 30-50 hours running. (See Section 11, para 9(10). (This
is not necessary with the Ferroflex type).
The drop in pressure between the two sides of the full flow lubricating oil filter should be
checked daily (by pressing the button) with the engine running at full nominal speed and the
oil at normal running temperature. The readings may be expected to show a consistent and
progressive increase; any sudden increase or decrease in pressure drop compared with the
previous reading should be investigated at once.
An element must be renewed as indicated in Section 18. NOTE: The period of 2,000 hours
(or the first 1,000 hours) refers to the time after the bowl is first put into actual use and does
not include the period when the bowl is primed ready for use but the new element has not yet
been in operation at all.
The exhaust thermometers should all indicate about the same temperature. A serious
difference in temperature indicates unequal distribution of load between the cylinders, and
this should be rectified as soon as possible as described under Uneven Running" (Section
16.2).
The exhaust gas of an engine that is running properly should be quite clear, and any
condition different from this should be corrected as soon as possible.
When an engine may be liable to periods of light load running, it is most important to
maintain the fresh water outlet temperature, otherwise combustion conditions may be
adversely affected. An engine running too cool tends to carbon up rapidly and suffer
corrosion and excessive wear of internal working parts. (See also 'Raw water - intercooled
engines' below).
Any alteration to the raw water flow, to regulate the engine temperature, should be made
slowly. If the jacket cooling system fails, the engine should be shut down as soon as possible.
The drain cocks on the air inlet manifold(s) of an intercooled engine should be opened at
least once every shift/watch to drain off any accumulated water.
If a variable speed engine is running at minimum speed, it is possible that the fresh water
pressure may fall quite low. However, provided there is a reading on the gauge (above the
static reading) and the pressure rises as soon as the engine speed is increased, this is
permissible.
The 'system live' light on the engine protection panel should remain lit all the time the
engine is running.
If anything unusual is noticed in the running of the engine - such as a quick rise in
temperature without increase of load, or the presence of an unusual smell or noise - the
engine should be stopped as soon as conveniently possible, the cause investigated and the
trouble rectified.
Normally on an intercooled engine, two valves are fitted in the raw water system, one to
control the flow through the intercooler, the other to control the flow bypassing the
intercooler. Increasing the flow through the intercooler will lower the temperature of the
air in the air inlet manifold, and decreasing the flow will raise this temperature. At the same
time, control of the total flow through both valves will determine the rise in raw water
temperature between entering the intercooler and leaving the heat exchanger. An
additional valve enables the flow through any marine gearbox oil cooler to be controlled.
The air temperature in the inlet manifold should be kept as near as possible to the figure
shown in the systems - diagram for the engine, but should not be allowed to fall below 26.7
deg.C (80 deg.F); whilst the rise in temperature between entering the intercooler and
leaving the heat exchanger should be within the limits given on the systems diagram. This
latter adjustment should be made first by controlling the overall flow through the system,
then the air manifold temperature adjusted. Continue adjusting the settings of the valves
until all the temperatures are within acceptable limits. All adjustments must be made with
the engine running at normal temperature on full load and at nominal crankshaft speed.
NOTE: If excessive flows are allowed, the heat transfer equipment may suffer damage by erosion.
If more precise figures are not available, adjust the flow through a marine gearbox oil cooler
to give a raw water temperature, between entering and leaving the cooler, of not less than:-
In addition to the various points mentioned above, it is good policy to check the lubricating
oil level daily (or as frequently as possible).
Where a set is on standby duty only, it is recommended that the engine should be run for a
few hours, including a period on load, at least every two or three months - more frequently
if possible. Similarly on engines on normal duties, standby pumps and similar gear should
be run at regular intervals.
It is helpful to run the engine on light load for a few minutes to allow it to cool down rather
than run on full load right up to the time of stopping.
Turn off the engine protection circuit (if fitted).
Open the drain cocks in the air inlet manifold.
Industrial and Marine Auxiliary Engines
Since the gearbox will be in neutral and the engine therefore only idling just before
stopping, simply move the handwheel/lever to STOP.
The valve in the return pipe from the lubricating oil tank to the pressure pump must be
closed. This is necessary even with the tank fitted in the low level position if the ship is liable
to list for any reason.
All engines
It is good practice not to remove crankcase doors or seek access to an engine until it has
cooled down. This is essential if it is suspected that any part has been running very hot, and
in such circumstances, the doors should not be removed until 10 minutes after the engine
has been stopped. In all cases, the part should be allowed to cool slowly and oil should never
be squirted on overheated parts as an explosion may occur.
7) Drain the raw water system and flush out with fresh water.
8) Grease the water pump glands (if fitted with gland packing).
10) Marine propulsion engines - empty the governor control delay mechanism (when fitted)
and refill with Shell Fusus Oil 'A', working out the air by moving the speed and reverse
control lever several times from Full Ahead" to Full Astern" and back, allowing the delay
mechanism to operate each time.
11) Disconnect any battery and treat this and any other ancillary equipment or driven
machinery according to the makers' recommendations. An engine and driven unit
mounted on bonded rubber anti-vibration mountings should be chocked up during any
period of lay-up to take the weight off the mountings.
12) Tie a label on the starting control wheel with a list of ALL systems drained, valves closed,
etc.
When the engine is to be put into service again, drain off as much of the preserving oil as
possible from the sump by using the priming pump whilst barring the engine round. At the
same time check that all the inlet and exhaust valves move freely. Drain the full flow filter
bowl(s). Drain the turbocharger reservoirs, check that the rotor will spin freely, then fill the
reservoirs with lubricating oil. Empty the daily service tank of preserving oil. Then carry out
the procedure as detailed above under Initial Starting". (Section 15.1). Re-commission
ancillary equipment or driven machinery, following the initial start procedure as
appropriate; dry out electrical machinery if necessary.
Should it be necessary to reverse the direction of rotation of an engine, the following parts
will normally be required for the basic engine, together with any further parts affected in
optional extras fitted to the engine, such as engine driven radiator, belt driven generator,
electric starter motor(s), etc.
NOTE: The engine number on the data plate signifies amongst other things the direction of
rotation and it is therefore important to quote the revised engine number on all orders for spare
parts after altering the engine rotation - hence the inclusion of 'Data plate' in the parts to be
fitted.
Camshaft complete (with driven gearwheel)
Lubricating oil pump(s)
Water pump(s)
Timing Plate (undrilled)
These procedures are in addition to the general instructions given in the preceding part of
this section of the manual.
The following procedure is to be used as a guide to manually start and stop the generators at
the above installation. It is assumed the system is in automatic standby mode, in which case,
the procedure activities DO NOT apply. If the whole system is to be set up for automatic
operation, then all activities apply.
The first procedure is only a Mechanical bias check list, and should be married with a similar
activity list for electrical activities in section 15.11.
Start Procedure:-
Starting:-
1. Pressing any `Emergency stop' will cause the Engine to stop immediately
and if it is closed the Generator circuit breaker will be signalled to open,
the alarm will sound and the appropriate annunciator indicator will
illuminate an the GLP and GCC panels. These will have to be key reset
before further starts can be attempted.
2. Pressing the normal `Stop' at the GLP will start the following sequence of
events:-
a) A run on timer will be initiated, during which time the `Generator
available' and `Shutdown in progress' lamps will come on, if it is
closed the Generator circuit breaker will be signalled to open but the
Engine will continue to run.
b) After the time has expired the Engine will stop.
Re-starting during the run on period:-
If the `Start' is pressed during this period, the run time will be cancelled,
the Engine will immediately stop and after the stop timed out (50 seconds)
it will re-start.
Manual Starting and Stopping at the G.C.C Panel
Starting:-
1. Turn the Generator start selector to `Remote' at the GLP and `Manual' at
the G.C.C..
2. Check that the `Generator available' lamp on the GCC panel is
illuminated. If not check the following:-
a) There is no shutdown fault showing on the Annunciator.
b) The engine control lever is in the `Work' position.
c) The barring gear is not engaged.
In addition to the above, on Generator 1 and 3 the Bus coupler must
be closed.
3. Check the Excitation selector at the GCC is switched to `Auto'.
4. Check the Radiator Fans selector at the GLP is switched to `Auto'.
5. Press the `Start' pushbutton, the engine should run and the `Generator
available' lamp will go out.
NOTE: If it is intended to put the Generator `on line' the Generator circuit breaker should be
closed at the H.V. switchboard prior to the Engine start.
Manual closure of the Generator circuit breaker at the GCC desk
1. Pressing any `Emergency stop' will cause the Engine to stop immediately
and if it is closed the Generator circuit breaker will be signalled to open,
the alarm will sound and the appropriate annunciator indicator will
illuminate an the GLP and GCC panels. These will have to be key reset
before further starts can be attempted.
2. Pressing the normal `Stop' at the GCC will start the following sequence of
events:-
a) A run on timer will be initiated, during which time the `Generator
available' and `Shutdown in progress' lamps will come on, if it is
closed the Generator circuit breaker will be signalled to open but the
Engine will continue to run.
b) After the time has expired the Engine will stop.
Re-starting during the run on period:-
If the `Start' is pressed during this period, the run time will be cancelled,
the Engine will immediately stop and after the stop timed out (50 seconds)
it will re-start.
Test Starting and Stopping at the G.C.C Panel
Starting:-
1. Turn the Generator start selector to `Remote' at the GLP and `Test' at
the G.C.C..
2. Check that the `Generator available' lamp on the GCC panel is
illuminated. If not check the following:-
a) There is no shutdown fault showing on the Annunciator.
b) The engine control lever is in the `Work' position.
1. Pressing any `Emergency stop' will cause the Engine to stop immediately
and if it is closed the Generator circuit breaker will be signalled to open,
the alarm will sound and the appropriate annunciator indicator will
illuminate an the GLP and GCC panels. These will have to be key reset
before further starts can be attempted.
2. Pressing the normal `Stop' or turning the selector off the `Test' position at
the GCC will start the following sequence of events:-
a) A run on timer will be initiated, during which time the `Generator
available' and `Shutdown in progress' lamps will come on, if it is
closed the Generator circuit breaker will be signalled to open but the
Engine will continue to run.
b) After the time has expired the Engine will stop.
Re-starting during the run on period:-
If the `Start' is pressed during this period, the run time will be cancelled,
the Engine will immediately stop and after the stop timed out (50 seconds)
it will re-start.
Automatic Starting and Stopping
Starting:-
1. Turn the Generator start selector to `Remote' at the GLP and `Auto' at
the G.C.C..
2. Check that the `Generator available' lamp on the GCC panel is
illuminated. If not check the following:-
a) There is no shutdown fault showing on the Annunciator.
b) The engine control lever is in the `Work' position.
c) The barring gear is not engaged.
1. Pressing any `Emergency stop' will cause the Engine to stop immediately
and if it is closed the Generator circuit breaker will be signalled to open,
the alarm will sound and the appropriate annunciator indicator will
illuminate an the GLP and GCC panels. These will have to be key reset
before further starts can be attempted.
Re-starting during the run on period after restoration of mains supply:-
If another mains failure occurs during this period and that Engine is
required, the run time will be cancelled, the Engine will immediately stop
and after the stop timed out (50 seconds) it will again close the Generator
circuit breaker and re-start.
INSTALLATION
SECTION CONTENTS
14.1.INSTALLATION
14.2.FOUNDATIONS (CONCRETE) - INDUSTRIAL
14.3.PLACING THE ENGINE - INDUSTRIAL
14.4.ALIGNING THE ENGINE - INDUSTRIAL
14.5.ANTI-VIBRATION MOUNTINGS - INDUSTRIAL
14.6.PIPING - INDUSTRIAL
14.7.ENGINE FOUNDATIONS - MARINE
14.8.ALIGNMENT OF GEARBOXES - MARINE PROPULSION
14.9.ALIGNMENT OF ENGINE TO THE GEARBOX (Reference to NODAL DAMPER
COUPLING in MIRRLEES BLACKSTONE GEARBOX Manuals apply only to use
with the Company's Mark 1 engines)
14.10.ENGINE FOUNDATIONS - MARINE
14.11.MARINE AUXILIARY SETS ON ANTI-VIBRATION MOUNTINGS
14.12.PIPING, ETC. - MARINE
14.13.PIPING - Additional notes
14.14.EXHAUST PIPING - ALL ENGINES - Sizes and Permitted Lengths
14.15.EXTENSION SHAFT (FREE END)
14.16.CONNECTING UP THE INSTRUMENT PANEL (free standing - when fitted)
14.17.INHIBITING AND PREPARATION OF FUEL, LUB AND AIR PIPING
14.1.INSTALLATION
Installation procedure will depend mainly on the engine duty, also on the site conditions
and - to a certain extent - on the methods of the engineer carrying out the work. What
follows should therefore be considered as outlining suggested procedures; but where
emphasis is laid upon particular features, these must be regarded as essential steps in
whatever procedure is actually adopted.
As the method of placing and lining up a land engine differs from that for a marine
engine, the instructions have been given under the following headings:-
INDUSTRIAL MARINE
Section Section
Foundations 14.1 14.6 & 14.9
Placing the engine 14.2 14.7 & 14.9
Aligning the engine 14.3 14.8 & 14.9
Anti-vibration Mountings 14.4 14.10
Piping - Air, oil,
water & exhaust systems 14.5 & 14.12 14.11 & 14.12
The work may be considered in three stages; first the preparation of the concrete
foundations before receipt of the engine, secondly the placing and lining up of the
engine and driven unit, and finally the piping up, and the installation of ancillary
equipment. Special instructions are given in this section regarding sets on
anti-vibration mountings, etc.
Correct installation is essential if the engine is to have a long and trouble-free life, and
the need of care and accuracy at every stage cannot be over-emphasised.
The foundation should be prepared in accordance with the Mirrlees Blackstone drawing
supplied with the engine. If the engine is to be mounted on concrete plinths, these
should be left 2 cm (3/4") low to allow for the insert ion of steel plates or wedges and for
final grouting. The final surfaces should be checked for flatness by using taut strings
(even better is fine piano wire, which will not sag) diagonally and along the length of the
supports, and the level should be carefully checked to ensure that the supports are
absolutely horizontal longitudinally and transversely.
Do not allow the surface of the concrete to dry out too fast. If necessary, keep the surface
moist. Allow 10-14 days for the concrete to harden. (If using rapid hardening cement,
consult supplier regarding hardening time)
When the concrete is set hard, give special attention to those areas where the packing
pieces will come. Remove any unevenness or pimples with a flat chisel and make
certain these areas are absolutely flat. Next lay a half inch 12 mm (0.5") thick steel plate a
little larger than the levelling shims - say 6" x 3" (150 x 75 mm) - where the first levelling
shim will be placed and hammer it down soundly. This will give a good compact surface
to the concrete and reduce the amount by which the actual levelling shims will give when
the foundation bolt nuts are tightened down. Repeat at each point where levelling shims
will be placed.
Where an engine is supplied with fabricated engine supports (for mounting on a level
floor in lieu of being on concrete plinths) the concrete, on which the engine supports are
to stand should be left 2 cm (3/4") low. The supports should be placed on suitable steel
packing and the engine bolted into position on top of the supports with no shimming
between the supports and the engine base flanges. The engine and driven unit should
then be lined up using a technique similar to that outlined below for engines on concrete
plinths. Finally the floor can be made up round the supports at the finished level.
The engine must be mounted on girders sufficiently strong and adequately cross-
braced to prevent the transmission of vibration or any possibility of the engine base
being distorted or the alignment of the engine and driven unit being affected. Also the
engine weight must be distributed effectively.
Vertical engines are despatched from the Works mounted on a timber base with a strong
stool on each side onto which the engine base supporting flanges are fixed, with cross
ties at the two ends for rigidity. The remainder of the case is built up from this base.
NOTE: If an engine has been partly disassembled for transportation and has to be
rebuilt on site, note should be taken of the fitting instructions relating to the various
parts and particularly to the use of the torque wrench kit.
The suggested method of erection is as follows:-
1) The engine has been securely bolted down to the stools by long bolts screwed into
threaded plates on the underside of the stools, and the stools are the same height as the
standard concrete plinths unless required otherwise. Whether the engine is lifted or
rolled into position will depend on the facilities available at site. Rollers 76 mm (3 in) dia x
305 (12 in long) and jacking screws are available if specially ordered. (See Parts List -
under 'Tools' etc - for part numbers).
2) Make sure the foundation bolt holes and the top of the concrete plinths are all quite free
of dirt or loose debris. Place the foundation bolts in their holes before moving the engine
into position, leaving it on rollers.
3) Lift the foundation bolts through the engine base flange holes and screw on a full nut,
leaving the bolts hanging.
4) Now remove the rollers, then lower the engine and support it on three sets of the packing
pieces provided, leaving a gap of about 20 mm (3/4") between the engine bearers and
the top of the concrete (plinths), one of the sets of packing pieces being at each end on
the camshaft side, and the third under the middle of the exhaust side. (Alternatively,
place a suitable steel plate - minimum size 130 x 50 x 12.5 mm (5" x 2" x 1/2") - under
each jacking screw hole and use the jacking screws to lower the engine).
5) Level the engine, using the spirit level across the machined surface of the cylinder
housing, after cleaning the surfaces as necessary to get an accurate reading. Check
each reading with the level reversed. Adjust the packing or jacking screws until the
engine is absolutely level both cross wise and lengthwise.
6) Carefully fit two more sets of plates under the exhaust side to match the two sets on the
camshaft side and one more set under the centre of the camshaft side, shimming to
ensure exact equality of loading. Fit further sets of packing to give level support as close
as possible to each foundation bolt hole, taking care not to upset the distribution of
weight or disturb the level of the engine.
through a further 900 and take another reading, and then turn to (near) B.D.C. when the
gauge should have returned to zero. The maximum deflection will depend on the mass
connected to the crankshaft flange. Without flywheel or coupling, deflection should not
exceed +/- 0.012 mm (+/- 0.0005"). In the fully installed condition the two readings
in the horizontal position should be similar in magnitude. Check the other throws
similarly, to the same limits. (Deflections of throws other than No.1 may be 'plus' or
'minus').
8) Next fit the flywheel, noting that the figure 'O' on the crankshaft spigot must correspond
with the 'O' on the flywheel face. Screw in the two setscrews, leaving them just slack
enough for the flywheel bolts to centre themselves as they are tapped into their
numbered holes (with the end with the drilled hole leading). Remove the crankcase
cover (exhaust side) and fit nuts, using special cranked spanner. Firm up setscrews. If
two engines are being installed together, make sure that the flywheels are fitted to the
correct engines, as indicated by the markings.
9) Recheck the crankshaft deflection. The maximum normal deflection at T.D.C. with the
flywheel fitted is -0.05 mm (-0.002") (No.1 throw). If the maximum deflection at T.D.C.
exceeds -0.05 mm (-0.002") in the cold condition or the difference in deflection
measurements between the 'hot' and 'cold' conditions exceeds 0.025 mm (0.001"),
Mirrlees Blackstone Limited should be consulted, with full details of any feature peculiar
to the installation.
10) Similarly check the other throws again, where the normal deflection should not exceed
+/ 0.012 mm (+/ 0.0005"), the ideal being no deflection at all. If the readings are not
- -
satisfactory, check all the throws and readjust the support of the engine and driven unit
outer bearing to eliminate distortion of the engine bed. Re-fit the crankcase doors.
Do not have the doors/ covers off the engine for longer than absolutely necessary at any
time, otherwise dirt may get into the engine.
The technique for lining up depends from this point on the bearing arrangement of the
driven unit and the following arrangements are covered:
To fit a single bearing generator, place the soleplate(s) in position, packed up level and
slightly below the height required for the generator coupling to register with the flywheel
bolts. Thread the rotor through the stator. With 3 mm (1/8") shimming in between, screw
down the generator and the bearing pedestal to the soleplate(s), and bolt the generator
shaft to the engine, taking care during this operation that the rotor is not fouling the stator
and that the outer bearing cap is slackened off.
Check the outer bearing longitudinally. Remove the cap and check with feeler gauges
that the gap is the same between the shaft and the bearing at each side of both ends of
the bearing, also check that there is no gap between the bottom of the shaft and the
lowest part of the bearing at either end. This ensures that the shaft is lying square to the
bearing and not tilted lengthwise. If it is necessary to adjust the position of the bearing
pedestal to secure this, recheck the crankshaft alignment and continue both checks
until alignment is secured.
Position the stator so that the ends of the stator and rotor are in line, to centralize the
magnetic field. Also check the rotor/stator air gap and adjust the packing under the
generator soleplate as necessary to secure an equal air gap all round at both ends.
Next fill the foundation bolt holes of both engine and driven unit up to 5 cm (2") below the
level of the top of the concrete with grout, making sure that no air pockets are left in the
grout. A strong grout is made by thoroughly mixing equal parts of clean Sharp sand
and cement, and adding only just enough water to make a mix which can be poured into
every part of the space to be filled. Allow 10-12* days to set, and then tighten the nuts
on the foundation bolts evenly and progressively. Make crankshaft deflection, bearing
alignment and air gap checks, packing under the engine supports and bearing pedestal
and under the generator as necessary.
When the alignment is absolutely correct - and not before -fill the space between the
concrete supports and the engine flanges, and beneath the generator soleplate(s) (and
bearing pedestal soleplate, if separate) with strong grout, taking care not to disturb the
packing. Allow three days for this to set hard, then check the tightness of the nuts on the
foundation bolts and make final deflection and outer bearing alignment checks.
When the generator is overhung, the deflection readings may normally be expected to
be between -0.013 mm (-0.0005") and -0.051 mm (-0.002") at TDC with zero at BDC
(No. 1 throw).
The same method can be used as outlined above, the operation being of course, much
simpler, but the same care is needed to ensure exact alignment of the bearing.
It is most important that the top of the engine supports should be parallel with the top of
the driven unit foundations.
Place and level the engine and check crankshaft deflections as described above, having
first fitted the flywheel. Next assemble the flexible coupling to the driven machine or to
the mating flange on the shaft. Place the driven machine with its jacking screws
extended and with the coupling near to the flywheel spigot without actually engaging.
Now mount a dial test indicator to the flywheel in such a way that the indicator bears
radially on the output boss of the coupling. Set the crankshaft to T.D.C. No.1 (rearmost)
cylinder and adjust the driven machine's feet until even readings are noted at 4 x 900
intervals. Reposition the indicator to bear on the back face of the output half of the
coupling and ensuring that crankshaft end float is taken up all one way, repeat for
readings at 900 intervals. The first readings are to achieve concentricity of centres; the
second to eliminate conical misalignment. With a horizontally mounted jack, ease the
driven machine toward the engine to engage the coupling into the flywheel spigot, and
bolt to the flywheel.
Screw each jacking bolt down half a turn (thus raising the machine) and pack shims
beneath each foot adjacent to each mounting bolt hole. If on concrete, insert foundation
bolts and suspend them each on a full nut. Pour in grout all round and allow 48 hours at
least before raising the jack bolts and tightening down the foundation nuts. Recheck the
concentric and conical indicator tests and readjust the shim packs until both the engine
and driven machine are as near perfectly in-line as possible, when the foundation bolts
are tightened. The maximum final misalignment of the coupling must not exceed 0.25
mm (0.010") in either set of readings. Remove the D.T.I. and stand, before fully
tensioning the coupling bolts, recheck that crankshaft deflection has not altered during
the lining up procedure. Finally torque the coupling nuts to 163 NM (120 lb.f.ft). and
finish grouting beneath all bearers - engine and driven machine - and neatening off the
appearance of the installation. (See notes regarding servicing of flexible couplings
under Section 9.5 - also manufacturer's bulletin extracts if available).
Sets which have been aligned at the Works on a combined baseplate for engine and
alternator are sometimes dismantled for transportation. In these instances, the correct
shim packing will have been stamped to correspond with each support pad on the
baseplate, which is also stamped and the separate units have been dowelled to locate
their relative positions accurately.
Operators are also advised to check the air gap between the armature and the stator of
single bearing machines with long feelers, to ensure that the clearance is exactly the
same at all points at both ends. If after considerable running there is appreciable wear,
radial and longitudinal gaps must be brought back to original clearances by shimming
and re- alignment.
MOTION/MOVEMENT
Length: The active or exposed length or a hose assembly must be sufficient to meet the
conditions of movement. Lengths shorter than required can result in premature fatigue
failure.
Bend Radius: The bend radii shown in the various hose tables are adequate to meet
most flexing requirements. Consideration should be given to these applications
involving levels of high frequency or large amounts of travel by increasing the bend radii.
Avoid sharp bends except where the installation is permanent and no additional flexing
is expected.
Abrasion: Allow for sufficient clearance so that hose in motion will not come in contact
with adjacent objects. Where abrasion cannot be avoided, an overall casing is required
to protect the hose from external damage.
The various systems should be installed in accordance with the arrangement shown in
the plan supplied with the engine. Raw water may be cooled in a cooling tower or drawn
from a stream or pond or similar source (and returned downstream or well away from the
intake). Alternatively intercooler water may be cooled in part of a radiator system. The
height of any cooling tower must be agreed with the Works.
All pipes should run as straight as possible. When bends are necessary they should
have a radius of at least three and a half times the diameter of the pipe.
Electric resistance welded steel pipes must be used for the starter air piping between the
engine and the air receiver and again between the receiver and the compressor (the size
being shown on the plan), in conjunction with compression type fittings.
The relief valve in the line from the compressor to the receiver must be fitted in a vertical
position at least 300 mm (12 ins) above the cross connecting piece, with the fusible plug
pointing downwards.
Normally an engine draws in engine room air and efficient air inlet filters are fitted as
standard on the engine, but for operating under very dusty conditions, large capacity oil
bath cleaners may be necessary. Alternatively it may be desirable to run a pipe of
suitable dimensions to the engine air inlet from the outside of the building, in which case
the air filter must be protected from the ingress of water.
Fuel System
The fuel system should be installed in accordance with the arrangement shown on the
plan, mild steel tubing being used for the piping from the main fuel tank(s) to the daily
service tanks, and for the first sections of the piping from the daily service tanks, and for
the first sections of the piping from the daily service tanks to the engine. It is advisable to
use copper piping for the final sections of the fuel piping to the engine, to facilitate
bending and to improve appearance. A drawing showing the arrangement of the
equipment is supplied for each installation.
N.B. No internal galvanizing is permissible in either the fuel tanks or the fuel piping.
The delivery pipe from the daily service tank must protrude inside the tank so that water
or sediment is not carried to the fuel filters. A drain plug or valve should be fitted at the
lowest point so that this sediment may be drained off.
Drain pipes from the injectors must lead back to the daily service tank.
The main fuel storage tank should be arranged with a sloping bottom and a drain plug or
cock so that any water or sediment can be drawn off from the lowest point. The supply to
the daily service tank must be taken from the higher end of the tank at a point not less
than four inches above the level of the sludge outlet.
After fitting the fuel and starting air piping, the engine lubricating oil pipes should be
fitted, then the fresh water, and finally raw water pipes, as far as convenient in that order,
working to the drawing supplied with the engine.
If the raw water is drawn from the sea or a tidal river or contains an appreciable amount of
salt, copper piping should be used, and the heat exchanger and oil cooler and also the
raw water pumps should be gunmetal.
When fitting the jacket water return piping from a radiator to the engine pump, provision
should be made for filling the system by connecting a hose to a tee incorporated in the
piping at the lowest point.
Where an Amot temperature control valve is fitted in the system, connect the valve as
detailed in Section 4 or 5, as appropriate.
The pressure relief (by-pass) valves across the radiator oil connections enable the oil to
reach the bearings when starting up from cold - without them the back pressure from
the radiator(s) would be liable to cause damage.
Where an intercooler is fitted to a radiator cooled engine, the intercooler water is cooled
in a separate section of the radiator(s) from the engine jacket water. Alternatively with 'air
to air' cooling, the pressurised inlet air passes through a section of the radiator.
Exhaust System
For the layout of the exhaust manifolds (if taken off the engine for shipment), see the
illustrations in the Parts List.
The exhaust system normally consists of an almost horizontal pipe, connected to the
engine through an expansion elbow, running from the engine through the nearest wall to
a tubular silencer which is provided with an outlet pipe at the top. (The slope of the pipe
prevents water from running back into the turbine).
The expansion elbow has a drain plug in its lowest bend through which any
condensation can be drained away. The silencer fixed to the wall forms the neatest and
most effective exhaust. The system should be as short and as free from bends and other
restrictions as possible.
For notes on Compression Joints and Jointing Tape, also Exhaust Piping - Sizes and
permitted lengths (Please see Section 14.13)
a) In vessels with single bottoms, engines must be seated on thick plates laid across the
top of deep floors or upon heavy foundation girders adequately bracketed and
stiffened. Intercostal plates should be fitted between the floors beneath the lines of
bolting so as to distribute the weight effectively through the bottom structure of the shell.
Seat plates must be connected to the girders of intercostals by thick angles having
flanges of sufficient width to take the nuts or heads of the holding down bolts.
b) In double bottom vessels the engines must be seated directly upon thick inner bottom
plating or upon thick seat plates on top of heavy foundations so arranged as to distribute
the weight effectively. Additional intercostal girders should be fitted within the double
bottom in such numbers and positions as to ensure the satisfactory distribution of the
weight and the rigidity of the structure; they must have double top angles, or double
riveted single angles of equivalent strength; the shell clips should be double riveted,
where necessary, under engines of high power. Top angles of intercostals under the
lines of bolting or angles connecting seat plates to foundation girders should have
flanges of sufficient breadth to take the nuts or heads of the holding down bolts. Engines
should not be installed at an angle fore and aft greater than 1 in 9, i.e. 6.1/2 deg. from
horizontal when the ship is on an even trim.
As the gearbox is a separate unit, the procedure is to line up the gearbox to the tailshaft
coupling, and then the engine to the gearbox.
Propulsion Engines
First place the gearbox and adjust the jacking screw until the box is in line with the
sterngear and is itself on a level plane athwartships. Test alignment by bringing the shaft
coupling up to the gearbox output coupling and check with a straight edge along the top
of both half couplings, and again at a point 90 deg. away. This checks axial alignment.
Next check the gap between the coupling faces at four equidistant points and adjust the
gearbox until the gap is exactly the same at all four points, re-checking with the tailshaft
turned through 180 deg. Now grind chocks to an exact fit between the gearbox and
bearers, fit these and harden down the bolts, re-checking the alignment before bolting
the gearbox coupling to the tailshaft coupling.
The Coupling used with the E Mark 2 engine will generally be a proprietary design
incorporating radial rubber transmission units - See Section 9.5 and manufacturer's
Manual extract and any drawing supplied for the installation.
Sometimes a driven half coupling flange is used and if not already fitted to the gearbox,
this should now be done. The Coupling Unit is supplied assembled and may next be
match-fitted to the gearbox flange. This method is standard when an auxiliary drive
pulley is sandwiched between gearbox coupling flange and the flexible coupling unit
itself. Alternatively the Coupling unit might come finish bored to suit the gearbox shaft
and should be fitted with the appropriate key.
In all cases where flexible couplings are to be mounted, they should be regarded as
'solid' units where installation is concerned and perfect concentricity and alignment
should be aimed for if trouble-free running is to be achieved.
The engine with its flywheel should of necessity be fitted with 2, and preferably with 4,
jacking bolts and these should be extended whilst the engine is being positioned
adjacent to the gearbox. A dial test indicator should be fitted to the flywheel at TDC No.1
(rearmost) cylinder position in such a way that the indicator registers radially upon the
driven half on the coupling. In order to avoid compounding run-out tolerance with
actual alignment tolerance, it is advisable to mark with chalk the flywheel and coupling
and to rotate both so that the indicator bears upon the same radial position of the
coupling. In rotating the flywheel and coupling through 3600 note the centre deviation of
the indicator at 900 intervals. Repeat with the indicator bearing upon the after face of the
driven coupling to obtain a measure of conical misalignment.
With the engine as perfectly lined up as possible the engine may now be pushed toward
the gearbox to engage the coupling into the flywheel spigot and all coupling bolts may
now be fitted.
Place an internal clock gauge (MB2842) between the punch marks on the inner faces of
the crankshaft webs of no. 1 cylinder about 12 mm (1 1/2") from the face where balance
weights would be fitted).Turn the crankshaft until the pin is as near as possible to BDC
without knocking the gauge out of position. (For maximum accuracy, remove the
connecting rod and turn the crank to B.D.C). Set the
gauge to zero. Now turn the crankshaft to 90 deg from
BDC and take a reading. Next turn the crankshaft to TDC
and take the reading. Turn the crankshaft in the same
direction through a further 90 deg and take another
reading, and then turn to (near) BDC when the gauge
should have returned to zero. The maximum deflection
will depend on the mass connected to the crankshaft
flange. Without flywheel or coupling, deflection should not
exceed +/-0.012 mm (+/-0.0005"). In the fully installed
condition the two readings in the horizontal position
should be similar in magnitude. The maximum deflection at TDC is -0.05 mm
(-0.002") (No. 1 throw). If the maximum deflection at TDC exceeds -0.05 mm
(-0.002") in the cold condition or the difference in deflection measurements between
the 'hot' and 'cold' conditions exceeds 0.025 (0.001"), Mirrlees Blackstone Limited
should be consulted, with full details of any feature peculiar to the installation.
Similarly, check the other throws, where the normal deflection should not exceed
+/ 0.0012 mm (+/-0.0005") the ideal being no deflection at all.
-
Do not have the doors off the engine at any time longer than necessary otherwise dirt
may get into the engine.
Tack weld chocks to the bearers when the engine is finally set up.
The foundation bolt holes - pre-drilled according to drawing - should now line up with
the engine and it is important to use suitably sized holding-down bolts to hold the
engine to its seating. The bolt sizes given in the chart below permit a stretch of at least
0.09 mm (0.0035") when tightened down. The plain shanks of the two 'fitted' bolts (see
drawing for position) must locate in the ship's seatings and have sufficient length to
protrude through the chock and also for at least 80% of the engine base flange
thickness. Minimum material specification for these bolts should be `R' quality
If metal chocks are made, they should be of ample size - approximately 180 mm x 125
mm (7 ins long by 5 ins wide) and should be ground to the exact thickness and fitted
each side of each bolt hole. When in position and the jack bolts removed, and with the
H.D. bolts tightened, all alignment checks should be made again. If satisfactory, the
coupling bolts should now be torqued to 163 Nm (120 lb.f.ft) and the D.T.I. removed.
Whether the set is on a combined baseplate or not, the following checks must be
made:- Check crankshaft deflection (as outlined under Propulsion Engine -
Alignment of Engine) which should not exceed -0.05 mm (-0.002") for No.1 throw
(nearest the flywheel) at T.D.C. and +/- 0.012mm (+/- 0.0005") for other throws. These
are maximum desirable figures and the deflection, release the baseplate holding down
bolts and place shims between the baseplate and the soleplate under the driven portion
of the baseplate, until the deflections are satisfactory. Finally check deflection after
tightening down the baseplate. Here again, if these figures are exceeded or if the
difference between `Hot' and `Cold' conditions exceeds 0.025mm (0.001"), Mirrlees
Blackstone Limited should be consulted, with full details of any feature peculiar to the
installation.
The air gap between rotor and stator of an alternator or generator should be checked
with long feelers to ensure that the clearance is the same all the way round.
The air gap between the rotor and stator of an alternator or generator should be checked
with long feelers to ensure that the clearance is the same all the way round.
Auxiliary Engines
The foot of each insulator must be supported on a suitable steel stool with a central hole
to allow clearance for the stud below the foot.
Slack off the adjusting nuts on top of each insulator until every one is clear of the cross
member. Pack under the feet as necessary to equalise the height of the cover skirt
above the foot of each insulator within 1.6 mm ( 1/16"). See 'checking distance' in
sketch. This ensures that all the insulators are equally loaded. Fully tighten and lock
lower main securing nuts on stool.
Screw down the adjusting nuts finger tight plus one half turn and then check the
crankshaft deflections. After completing installation, run the engine and test for
satisfactory damping of vibration over the full range of working loads/speeds. If
vibration is not within acceptable limits, tighten some or all of the nuts by a quarter turn at
a time but not more than two full turns from finger tight, working round until a satisfactory
result is achieved. Tighten down the locknut of each adjusting nut.
The packing under the foot of each mounting can be given a tack weld to secure.
Finally check the crankshaft deflection. The maximum desirable deflection is as for an
auxiliary set on a fabricated baseplate.
The mountings are supplied as a set, all with matched deflection characteristics. Should
a mounting require replacement at any time, it is essential that fullest details be given
when ordering the replacement unit, including engine number and any details or figures
stamped on the mounting itself. At the same time a check should be made to see if any
of the other mountings in the set are beginning to show signs of deformation, in which
case these should also be replaced.
When fitting one or more new units, check the deflection of the complete set as indicated
above and finally check crankshaft deflection.
Drawings for the various systems giving all necessary information are sent with each
engine.
The raw water should be drawn through a strainer and mud box which must be kept
clean, especially when the ship is in muddy or sandy waters. For muddy river work, a
mud box of large capacity should be fitted.
The pump delivers through the intercooler and the engine oil cooler to the jacket water
cooler, whilst a branch pipe feeds the gearbox oil cooler. Arrangements can be made for
connecting a standby pump for use in case of emergency. (See Section 17).
Piping
Each engine must have its own separate sea water suction and discharge.
The raw water sea strainer must have holes not more than 6 mm (1/4") square or 6 mm
(1/4") diameter. An air pipe connection should be fitted for cleaning purposes.
The fresh water balance tank must be fitted with the bottom of the tank 1675 mm (66")
above the centre line of the crankshaft(s). Each engine installed in a ship should have a
separate fresh water balance tank. Tanks must not be inter-connected (otherwise a
leakage from one engine will affect other engines). The pipe from the engine to the
balance tank must slope steadily upwards.
If an Amot valve is fitted in the cooling system, see Section 5.3 WARNING: Port 'A' may
be the branch or may be at the end of an Amot valve, depending on the size of the valve.
This must be checked carefully when installing.
Dry sump engines - the lubricating oil tank should be sited as close to the engine as
convenient with the centre of the tank level with the centre line of the oil pumps when the
ship is on an even trim. The valve in the return pipe from the tank to the pressure pump
suction must be so placed as to be easily accessible at all times.
The relief valve in the line from the compressor must be fitted in a vertical position at least
300 mm (12") above the cross connecting piece with the fusible plug pointing
downwards.
All pipes should run as straight as possible. Where bends are necessary, they should
have a radius of at least three and a half times the diameter of the pipe. No internal
galvanising is permissible in either fuel tanks or fuel piping.
Drain pipes from the injectors must lead back to the daily service tank.
When fitting bolts which will be subject to high temperatures, the use of graphite and
grease (or a proprietary 'solid lubricant') on the threads will facilitate removal at a later
date.
It is essential that O ring joints should be of the correct cross section as well as being of
the correct diameter, otherwise the 'nip' will not be correct. Stretching a ring which is
undersize on diameter reduces the cross section area, and the consequent reduced nip
may well result in a leaking joint.
To assemble:
1) Place nut and ring on pipe, then centre pipe into body until the end contacts the
shoulders provided.
2) Move the ring and nut down until the nut and body threads meet. Screw up finger tight.
3) Whilst supporting the body turn the nut with a spanner one full turn.
NOTE: The joint is at its best when tightened 1/-1. 1/2 full turns beyond
finger-tight, depending on the size of the pipe.
Should prolonged severe vibration cause slight leakage, nip the nut just a little tighter.
If these instructions are properly carried out the joint can be broken and re-made
repeatedly.
Joint Tape
This tape can be used to seal parallel or taper thread joints in water, fuel oil, lubricating oil
or starting air piping and should be applied as follows:-
The threads of both portions of the piping to be joined should be clean and dry. Bind the
tape round the male thread (winding in the same direction as the thread) until the whole
of the thread is covered. Screw the parts together and tighten.
If the joint has to be undone, clean the thread and re-tape before re-screwing.
BRAMMER BELTS
Receivers supplied for mounting horizontally are fitted with a drain pipe (internal) to suit,
i.e. to reach the lowest point - this is when the flat of the drain pipe fitment TOP is
uppermost. Check to ensure that a receiver installed horizontally does have this word
top facing upwards.
If a receiver designed for horizontal mounting is used in a vertical position, the drain pipe
can be removed if the venting valve is at the bottom of the receiver (when vertical); but if
the vent valve is at the top or in the side, a pipe must be fitted, with the open end almost at
the bottom of the receiver. If a receiver designed for vertical mounting is installed
horizontally, a suitable pipe must be fitted inside the receiver with open end at the lowest
point when the receiver is in the installed position.
Ventilation
For satisfactory engine performance the air supply must be plentiful and cool. It is
therefore essential to keep the engine room temperature as low as possible. All
ventilators should be the largest permissible and air inlet ducts taken to a point only just
above floor level. Air should be extracted from the highest possible level. See also the
air system diagram supplied with the engine.
14.14.EXHAUST PIPING - ALL ENGINES - Sizes and Permitted Lengths
Normally the diameter and maximum length of exhaust piping are stipulated when an
engine is supplied and the installation should be designed accordingly. Any alternative
proposed scheme should be submitted to the Works for approval, and in no instance
should the back pressure exceed 10" WG at full load.
Reference should be made to the Works if it is intended to fit a silencer other than the
type offered at the time of purchase of the engine.
On turbocharged engines, the exhaust outlet thermometer, when fitted to the exhaust
adaptor, should be set with the end of the thermometer 100 mm (4 inches) below the
shoulder of the mounting fitment to ensure that correct readings are obtained.
The exhaust pipe running from the turbocharger should slope downwards with a plug
for draining off any condensate at the lowest point, (to prevent water from flowing back
into the turbocharger turbine).
14.15.EXTENSION SHAFT (FREE END)
Where a crankshaft free end extension shaft is fitted with an outer bearing, the crankshaft
deflection of the throw nearest to the forward end should be carefully checked after the
bearing has been lined up and fixed in position. The deflection must not exceed
-0.025mm (-0.001") at TDC compared with zero at BDC, nor should there be more
than 0.025 mm (0.001") difference between any two readings, every endeavour being
made to secure as near as possible zero deflection. It must not be a 'plus' figure at TDC
as this would indicate that the shaft was being bent upwards. The alignment must be
correct before the engine is run.
KEY:
All engines
With a 75 mm shaft:
At 750 rpm 225 bhp)
At 900 rpm 270 bhp) 1575.6 lb.ft. torque
At 1000 rpm 300 bhp)
With an outrigger supported 120 mm dia. shaft, the power available per shaft is 1220
bhp at 1000 rpm (or the power available from the engine if this is less).
NOTE: The permissible power will be proportionally less at lower speeds.
The layshaft drive should be carefully lined up to the engine, a final check for zero
deflection between the engine crank webs (nearest to the extension shaft) being made
before the engine is run up. With the gauge set to zero at BDC, the deflection at TDC
(even on an engine with a hydraulic damper) should not exceed -0.019 mm
(-0.00075"). It must not be a 'plus' figure as this would indicate that the outer bearing
was bending the shaft upwards.
When extension shafts and couplings are fitted, arrangements must be made to allow
for the removal of water pumps, etc. for routine maintenance.
The various sensing devices are shipped attached to the panel and should be fitted to
the engine in the appropriate positions.
All internal electrical connections are wired up in the panel during manufacture. It is,
therefore, only necessary to connect up the Input to the Battery, or to the appropriate
transformer tapping connection.
When connecting the system to the Mains Supply, the appropriate transformer
connections must be made as follows:-
Wire up the tachometer generator to the instrument panel using two core cable
(minimum 0.50 sq.mm. cross section area), with minimum 250 volt insulation.
Fuel and lub oil piping after filtration equipment, between filter and engine, should be
cleaned and pickled. Pipes should be constructed as far as possible to allow visual
inspection of internal welds. This requirement should also be applied to air piping where
equipment may be sensitive to rust or weld slag.
Method
ENGINE OPERATION
SECTION CONTENTS
15.1.INITIAL STARTING
15.2.NORMAL OR DAILY STARTING (Standard air starting)
15.3.MANUAL STARTING OF ENGINE WITH AUTOMATIC OR REMOTE START FACILITY
15.4.RUNNING THE ENGINE
15.5.ENGINE ON STANDBY DUTY OR NOT RUN DAILY
15.6.STOPPING THE ENGINE
15.7.MANUAL STOPPING OF ENGINES WITH AUTOMATIC OR REMOTE CONTROL
FACILITY
15.8.LAYING UP THE ENGINE
15.9.ROTATION - To Reverse Direction
15.1.INITIAL STARTING
Before starting the engine for the first time, the operator should read carefully the
starting and stopping instructions below and also that part of the Introduction headed
'Maintenance and Overhaul' - which should be kept in mind in all work on the engine.
Initial Starting
1) Before starting a new engine, or before starting after a complete overhaul, the following
points should be observed ((1a) and (1b) apply to new or laid up engines only):-
b) Before leaving the Works, every engine is treated internally by spraying with a
protective coating. As much of this as possible should be removed from working
surfaces (such as cams, etc.) with a rag damped with paraffin or oil. What is left will
dissolve in the lubricating oil when the engine is running, without harming the oil.
NOTE: (Use good quality rag - NOT cotton waste). The protective coating can be
removed from exposed bright parts with paraffin, petrol, diesel fuel or a suitable
alkaline cleaner. Remove any protective covering from around the turbocharger
intake filter.
Starting Air
2) The air receiver should be charged up by means of a compressor. (See Section 7.1).
Fresh Water
3) Fill the engine water cooling system with clean soft water, making sure that the system is
properly vented. (Radiator cooled engines with intercoolers - fill this system also with
clean soft water. Allow radiator to st and for half an hour, then re-check the water level).
Grease the water pump gland(s) (pumps fitted with gland packing). Where a
turbocharger is fitted, check the jacketing of the casings by unscrewing the drain cocks
or by slacking off connections until water flows. Before starting a turbocharger engine
that has been standing for four weeks or more, drain any accumulated moisture from the
compressor outlet casing and the turbine outlet casing by removing the drain plugs.
Fuel
4) Fill the fuel storage tank(s) with clean fuel oil, and fill the daily service tanks. Open the
supply cock to the engine and vent both bowls of the filter. Slacken one of the plugs at
the far end of the fuel manifold and vent the manifold.
Lubricating Oil
5) Fill the sump/tank with fresh lubricating oil to the top mark on the dipstick. Open the
valve on the air receiver, move the control handle to 'Prime' (but not beyond) and vent
both bowls of the lubricating oil filter. Continue priming (using one filter bowl only), until
the oil pressure reaches 0.25 bar. (4 lb/sq.in) for 15 seconds. Move the control handle
back to 'STOP'. Close the valve on the air receiver. (See Section 4.1).
6) Fill the turbocharger oil reservoirs to the correct level with a suitable grade of lubricating
oil as shown in Section 4.
7) If a Woodward governor is fitted check the level of the oil. (See Section 4.4). Set load
limit to '5' (other than on automatic start sets). Lubricate the ball ends and springbox of
the fuel control linkage.
8) Fill any outer bearing with appropriate oil. (See Section 4.1).
Controls
9) Set control lever to STOP position, bar the engine round at least two complete
revolutions to ensure that the engine is free from undue friction, and that nothing has
been left inside to interfere with the working parts. (Engines with bell housings have a
barring bobbin on the forward end extension shaft).
NOTE: To enable the crankshaft to be turned by hand, the cylinder head plugs
(Pub. 61 - ref. 030-01-75) should first have been removed. Remember to replace
before attempting to start up.
10) Refit all engine covers, etc., ensure that the driven unit is ready to run.
11) Open the valve under the water make-up tank and the raw water valves. Prime the raw
water pump.
Starting
14) Re-prime the lubricating oil system then turn the control lever to START. The engine
should immediately turn under the action of the compressed air. As soon as the engine
is turning at a fair speed move the control lever to the WORK position, when the engine
will accelerate to the operating speed, and the air starting supply will be cut off.
Woodward Governor - move the load limit to '10'.
16) Vent the intercooler cooling water system at the highest point.
Initial Checks
17) Check the water pressure gauge to ensure circulation of the engine jacket cooling water.
Also check raw water flow (or switch on radiator fans). Ensure that the engine protection
circuit (if fitted) is operative.
18) The lubricating oil pressure should be maintained as close as possible to the figure
given under Technical Data", and, when the engine has attained its normal operating
temperature, should not at full speed conditions be allowed to fall below this figure. Any
sudden or gradual drop in pressure should be investigated and the cause rectified.
NOTE: Should the gauges indicate a pressure more than 0.35 bars (5 lb/sq.in)
above normal when the engine has been running for more than 30 minutes or the
oil has reached normal operating temperature, the oil pressure relief valve must
be adjusted until the pressure drops to normal.
19) It will generally be found that the consumption of lubricating oil during the first few hours'
running is apparently above normal, but this is due to a film of oil being given to the
whole of the inside of the engine.
20) Check for water in the air manifold by momentarily opening the drain cock.
22) Check and, if necessary, make final adjustment to the setting of the fresh water control
valves to suit site conditions. See detailed instructions in Section 5.3
2) Check the levels of the engine (and turbocharger) lubricating oil, and of the fuel and
fresh water header tanks, (marine engine - making allowance if the ship is not on an
even trim, also lubricating oil dipstick readings may be inaccurate when a dry sump
engine is not running).
3) Check that the valves on the raw water supply are open.
4) Check that the fuel cock on the daily service tank is open.
5) (Dry sump engine - open the valve in the return pipe from the lubricating oil tank to the
pressure pump). Prime the engine lubricating oil system.
6) See that the control lever is at STOP. Woodward Governor - set the load limit to '5'.
9) Turn the control lever to PRIME then to WORK. Woodward Governor - move the load to
'10' when the engine is up to nominal speed.
10) Close the valve on the air receiver. Check lubricating oil pressure and the flow of fresh
and raw water (or turn on radiator fans).
11) Close the air inlet manifold drain cock(s) (intercooled engines). Turn on the Engine
Protection Circuit (if fitted).
12) Marine engines - check the level of the lubricating oil again when the ship is on an even
trim.
14) Recharge the air receiver (after venting if necessary through the drain valve).
3) Turn on compressed air supply. Move the engine control lever to the 'run' position.
5) Operate the solenoid air valve manually by pressing on the return stop lever. The engine
should then start. Release the return stop lever.
If the cylinder head has been removed and refitted with the Acidoil Gasket,check the
tightness of the nuts after the first 30-50 hours running. (See Section 11, para 9(10).
(This is not necessary with the Ferroflex type).
The drop in pressure between the two sides of the full flow lubricating oil filter should be
checked daily (by pressing the button) with the engine running at full nominal speed and
the oil at normal running temperature. The readings may be expected to show a
consistent and progressive increase; any sudden increase or decrease in pressure
drop compared with the previous reading should be investigated at once.
An element must be renewed as indicated in Section 18. NOTE: The period of 2,000
hours (or the first 1,000 hours) refers to the time after the bowl is first put into actual use
and does not include the period when the bowl is primed ready for use but the new
element has not yet been in operation at all.
The exhaust thermometers should all indicate about the same temperature. A serious
difference in temperature indicates unequal distribution of load between the cylinders,
and this should be rectified as soon as possible as described under Uneven Running"
(Section 16.2).
The exhaust gas of an engine that is running properly should be quite clear, and any
condition different from this should be corrected as soon as possible.
When an engine may be liable to periods of light load running, it is most important to
maintain the fresh water outlet temperature, otherwise combustion conditions may be
adversely affected. An engine running too cool tends to carbon up rapidly and suffer
corrosion and excessive wear of internal working parts. (See also 'Raw water -
intercooled engines' below).
Any alteration to the raw water flow, to regulate the engine temperature, should be made
slowly. If the jacket cooling system fails, the engine should be shut down as soon as
possible. Cold water should not be used to cool the jacketing if overheating has
occurred. It is dangerous to attempt to cool an engine suddenly after the temperature
has risen due to lack of attention.
The drain cocks on the air inlet manifold(s) of an intercooled engine should be opened at
least once every shift/watch to drain off any accumulated water.
If a variable speed engine is running at minimum speed, it is possible that the fresh water
pressure may fall quite low. However, provided there is a reading on the gauge (above
the static reading) and the pressure rises as soon as the engine speed is increased, this
is permissible.
The 'system live' light on the engine protection panel should remain lit all the time the
engine is running.
If anything unusual is noticed in the running of the engine - such as a quick rise in
temperature without increase of load, or the presence of an unusual smell or noise - the
engine should be stopped as soon as conveniently possible, the cause investigated and
the trouble rectified.
Normally on an intercooled engine, two valves are fitted in the raw water system, one to
control the flow through the intercooler, the other to control the flow bypassing the
intercooler. Increasing the flow through the intercooler will lower the temperature of the
air in the air inlet manifold, and decreasing the flow will raise this temperature. At the
same time, control of the total flow through both valves will determine the rise in raw
water temperature between entering the intercooler and leaving the heat exchanger. An
additional valve enables the flow through any marine gearbox oil cooler to be controlled.
The air temperature in the inlet manifold should be kept as near as possible to the figure
shown in the systems - diagram for the engine, but should not be allowed to fall below
26.7 deg.C (80 deg.F); whilst the rise in temperature between entering the intercooler
and leaving the heat exchanger should be within the limits given on the systems
diagram. This latter adjustment should be made first by controlling the overall flow
through the system, then the air manifold temperature adjusted. Continue adjusting the
settings of the valves until all the temperatures are within acceptable limits. All
adjustments must be made with the engine running at normal temperature on full load
and at nominal crankshaft speed.
NOTE: If excessive flows are allowed, the heat transfer equipment may suffer
damage by erosion.
If more precise figures are not available, adjust the flow through a marine gearbox oil
cooler to give a raw water temperature, between entering and leaving the cooler, of not
less than:-
4.1 deg. C (7.4 deg F) for 750 rpm crankshaft speed
In addition to the various points mentioned above, it is good policy to check the
lubricating oil level daily (or as frequently as possible).
Where a set is on standby duty only, it is recommended that the engine should be run for
a few hours, including a period on load, at least every two or three months - more
frequently if possible. Similarly on engines on normal duties, standby pumps and
similar gear should be run at regular intervals.
It is helpful to run the engine on light load for a few minutes to allow it to cool down rather
than run on full load right up to the time of stopping.
Turn off the engine protection circuit (if fitted).
Open the drain cocks in the air inlet manifold.
Industrial and Marine Auxiliary Engines
Since the gearbox will be in neutral and the engine therefore only idling just before
stopping, simply move the handwheel/lever to STOP.
The valve in the return pipe from the lubricating oil tank to the pressure pump must be
closed. This is necessary even with the tank fitted in the low level position if the ship is
liable to list for any reason.
All engines
It is good practice not to remove crankcase doors or seek access to an engine until it has
cooled down. This is essential if it is suspected that any part has been running very hot,
and in such circumstances, the doors should not be removed until 10 minutes after the
engine has been stopped. In all cases, the part should be allowed to cool slowly and oil
should never be squirted on overheated parts as an explosion may occur.
7) Drain the raw water system and flush out with fresh water.
8) Grease the water pump glands (if fitted with gland packing).
10) Marine propulsion engines - empty the governor control delay mechanism (when
fitted) and refill with Shell Fusus Oil 'A', working out the air by moving the speed and
reverse control lever several times from Full Ahead" to Full Astern" and back, allowing
the delay mechanism to operate each time.
11) Disconnect any battery and treat this and any other ancillary equipment or driven
machinery according to the makers' recommendations. An engine and driven unit
mounted on bonded rubber anti-vibration mountings should be chocked up during
any period of lay-up to take the weight off the mountings.
12) Tie a label on the starting control wheel with a list of ALL systems drained, valves closed,
etc.
When the engine is to be put into service again, drain off as much of the preserving oil as
possible from the sump by using the priming pump whilst barring the engine round. At
the same time check that all the inlet and exhaust valves move freely. Drain the full flow
filter bowl(s). Drain the turbocharger reservoirs, check that the rotor will spin freely, then
fill the reservoirs with lubricating oil. Empty the daily service tank of preserving oil. Then
carry out the procedure as detailed above under Initial Starting". (Section 15.1).
Re-commission ancillary equipment or driven machinery, following the initial start
procedure as appropriate; dry out electrical machinery if necessary.
TROUBLESHOOTING
SECTION CONTENTS
16.1.TROUBLESHOOTING CHART
16.2.UNEVEN RUNNING
16.1.TROUBLESHOOTING CHART
Usually faults will show up in more than one way, and a cross check on associated
conditions should enable the operator to determine the actual cause of trouble.
16.2.UNEVEN RUNNING
1) Check thermometers by changing over the positions of those showing the highest and
lowest readings.
2) Check for air in the fuel system, especially in the pump of the cylinder reading low.
Check for water in the fuel. If necessary clean the whole system including the fuel
manifolds.
3) If the variation affects one cylinder in particular, and alters with a change in engine load,
injector or fuel pump trouble is indicated.
If servicing the nozzle assembly does not effect a cure, service the nozzle holder also.
If servicing the pumps has not disclosed the cause of uneven running, check the fuel
pump timing and adjust if necessary. (See 'Fuel Pump Timing' Section 3). During any
subsequent adjustments to the engine, the spill timing must not be disturbed unless the
fuel pump or follower gear is altered in some way in which case the timing procedure for
the particular cylinder(s) must be repeated.
Finally the quantity of fuel delivered to each cylinder as indicated by the individual exhaust
temperatures when running on full load at nominal speed should be adjusted as detailed in
Section 3.
The above procedure - if correctly carried out - should ensure balanced running.
Remove the steel plug and fit the indicator cock adaptor onto
the existing soft iron washer, then the indicator cock, and the
pressure indicator (details in parts list). Run the engine until
warm and then indicate each maxi mum cylinder pressure in
turn, on full load.
INDICATOR IN POSITION
FOR CHECKING MAXIMUM
CYLINDER PRESSURE
EMERGENCY PROCEDURES
SECTION CONTENTS
17.1.EMERGENCY RUNNING PROCEDURE
17.2.BREAKDOWN OF THE TURBOCHARGER
17.1.EMERGENCY RUNNING PROCEDURE
Connecting points are provided for standby pumps for both fresh and raw water and for
engine lubricating oil.
Where a pump drive idler drives both a water pump and a lubricating oil pump, if one of
these pumps fails, the pump driving gear should be removed and the pump refitted, or a
blanking cover should be fitted in its place, in order to protect the drive to the other
pump. At the same time check the condition of the idler gear.
A blanking plate must also be fitted in the delivery pipe from the failed pump, if it is
refitted, to prevent the output from the standby pump driving the failed pump backwards
and thus losing pressure.
Start the standby pump before starting the engine but note that if the lubricating oil
pressure pump of a dry sump engine has failed, the engine must be started before the
lubricating oil tank is empty.
For a variable speed engine with dry sump, if the lubricating oil pressure pump fails,
both pumps should be isolated and both standby pumps used (otherwise at idling
speed the engine driven scavenge pump will not match the demands of the standby
pressure pump which - being electric - will remain at full speed, and the tank will
become empty; the pressure pump will then not maintain oil pressure to the engine).
However, if only one Standby Pump is available, and the Pressure Pump fails, then the
engine must temporarily operate on a wet Sump system, in which case the drives to both
scavenge and pressure pumps must be removed and the pumps or blanking plates
refitted. The Oil in the tank should of course be transferred to the sump at dipstick low
level - before restarting the engine.
As soon as possible the faulty pump should be repaired or a new pump fitted.
Should it be necessary to lock the rotor shaft of the turbocharger for whatever reason,
whilst the engine is in service, then the end plate of the air intake manifold must also be
removed to restore aspiration to the engine. Since it is not generally possible to relieve
the back pressure in the exhaust system due to the presence of the stationary turbine,
the power output of the engine will still be severely impaired resulting in a probable
output of only 30% of original rated output. It is important that the cooling water flow to
the turbocharger be maintained and that the damage should be rectified at the earliest
opportunity. For the necessary tools and procedure, see Turbocharger maker's
handbook.
SERVICING ROUTINE
SECTION CONTENTS
18.1.SERVICING ROUTINE
18.2.CHART GIVING PATTERN OF SERVICING ROUTINE
18.1.SERVICING ROUTINE
The intervals at which an engine will require servicing will depend on the duty and
running conditions; the more arduous these are, the more frequently will servicing be
needed. On the other hand, the better the conditions, the less frequently will servicing
be needed. Ideal conditions would include:-
- Steady load at between three quarters and full rated output
- Good fuel oil,
- Good quality lubricating oil of suitable detergency level,
- Efficient engine cooling conditions, including clean cooling water,
- Clean air conditions
Less favourable would include:-
- Excessive periods of overload,
- A high proportion of running at low speed,
- Frequent starts from cold;
- Poor quality fuel or lubricating oil;
- Air borne grit
and any of these would involve more frequent servicing and greater wear on the working
parts of the engine.
Each servicing operation should be carried out at the intervals shown below in running
hours, the periods being based on the assumption that running conditions and other
factors are reasonably good. In some instances, it may be found that the intervals can
be extended considerably - particularly decarbonizing - whilst on the other hand
under less favourable conditions they may well have to be curtailed; this must be left to
the discretion of the operator, and the items starred* are those most likely to need
watching during the early life of the engine until a pattern is established. The operation of
all safety devices should be checked regularly.
Engines operating on low grade distillate, high sulphur or residual fuel should have the
lubricating oil analysed at regular intervals, as indicated under Service Routine for
Heavy Fuel", to ensure an adequate alkalinity level is maintained. The target level for
continued operation is between 8 and 10 TBN.
The initial period results should give an indication of how often the oil should be
monitored. This is set at 500 hours, but must be adjusted based on experience. Oil
change intervals should be based on the analyses of the condition of the oil.
In addition to the servicing routine tabled below, the following should receive attention at
the stated period after the engine is first commissioned or after an overhaul:-
After first 30-50 hours running Check tappets
After first 100 hours running Drain, clean and refill the turbocharger sumps.
After first 1000 hours running *Fuel filter )Change to other
**Engine lub. oil filter )bowl.Fit new
)element to bowl
)just used. Prime
)bowl.( Sec.3.1 &
)4.6)
* See end of this section for engine with pressurized fuel system.
** See Section 15.4, third paragraph
'f' - 6000 (or every 12 months) Renew oil in governor. (Sec.4.4 and 8.8).
(whichever is sooner) *Check fuel daily service tank
*Draw off water/sludge from bulk fuel storage
tank
'g' - 8000 Renew turbocharger bearings. Inspect turbo-
charger cooling system. (Sec. 6.3)
'h' - 9000 Inspect engine lub. oil pumps and drives. (Sec.
4.8) Inspect engine water pumps and drives. (Sec.
5.4) Check cush drive to pumps (Sec. 9.1) Renew
seals where necessary. Inspect condition of cams
(Sec. 10.5) Check operation of governor mechan
ism and linkage. (Sec.3.5) Check anti-vibration
mountings (if fitted) for deterioration or deforma
tion. (Sec.14.4 or 11).
'j' - 12000 Inspect main bearings. (Sec. 9.2) Have fuel
injection pumps serviced. (Sec.3.7) Inspect flex
ible coupling for cracking.
'k' - 18000 (maximum) Fit new sets of connecting rod bolts. (Sec. 11.8).
This should be done if at any time any bolt shows
signs of fatigue or damage from rough handling or
any other cause whatever.
'k' - 18000 Withdraw injector pockets and check thickness of
the pocket wall (for wear by the water jet). (Sec.
11.2)
'l'- 24000 Fit new Holset damper
- 27000
Ancillary gear should be maintained in accordance with manufacturers'
recommendations. See also maker's manuals regarding Geislinger damper,
turbocharger and Woodward governor. Standby pumps should be run at regular
intervals (preferably monthly) as a check.
NOTE: Engines with pressurized fuel system - fuel filter element renewal (Vokes
filter):-
Renew element, whichever is the soonest:-
or
2) When the pressure drop between the filter inlet and outlet reaches 0.35 bar (5 lb/sq.in)-
(Depress the button to show 'before filter' reading).
or
3) After a period of 12 months use (ignoring any time the bowl is primed prior to
changeover).
As a guide to help an operator to plan the servicing on a routine basis, the intervals given
above are listed below in the form of a chart.
It must be appreciated that this chart is intended only as a guide, as the intervals may
need to be modified as mentioned at the beginning of Section 18.1
NOTE: The following information is additional to the service periods in the forgoing
pages.
Special initial servicing
After first 30-50 hours running Analyse lubricating oil for TBN.
After first 100 hours running Water wash turbocharger turbine.
After first 250 hours running Analyse lubricating oil for TBN.
'a' - 500 Analyse lubricating oil for TBN - see Lub Oil
Change Sec 4.7. Water wash turbocharger see Sec
6.5.
'c' - 1500 Clean fine gauze strainers in fuel oil daily service
tank. Withdraw injectors and remove nozzles,
wash nozzles and valves and test spray. (Sec 3.7)
'e' - 3000 or as indicated Check valve rotators. (Sec 11.1)
by loss of engine power Decarbonise cylinder heads, grind in valves,
or abnormal exhaust check valve springs and clean water spaces.
temperature (Sec 11.2). Withdraw and decarbonise pistons.
Check ring gaps. (Sec 11.3-4). Check and record
liner wear. (Sec 11.5-6). Check large and small
end bearings. (Sec 11.7-8). Check crankshaft
deflections and driven u nit alignment. (Sec 14.3,
or 8 as appropriate). Clean exhaust piping.
'f' - 6000 (or as indicated Inspect main bearings. (Sec 9.2)
by loss of engine power or Have injectors serviced. (Sec 3.7)
abnormal exhaust temperatures)
Renew element at whichever is the soonest:-
After a period of 12 months use (ignoring any time the bowl is primed prior to
changeover).
As a guide to help an operator to plan the servicing on a routine basis, the intervals given
above are listed below in the form of a chart.
It must be appreciated that this chart is intended only as a guide, as the intervals may
need to be modified as mentioned at the beginning of this section.
SERVICING ROUTINE
Running hours and letters refer to list of operations on previous pages.
1000 b 37000 b
1500 c 37500 c
2000 b d 38000 b d
3000 b c e 39000 b c
4000 b d 40000 b d g
4500 c 41000 c
5000 b 41500 b
6000 b c d e f 42000 b c d e f
7000 b 43000 b
7500 c 43500 c
8000 b d g 44000 b d
9000 b c e h 45000 b c h
10000b d 46000 b d
10500 c 46500 c
11000b 47000 b
12000b c d e f j 48000 b c d e f g j l
13000b 49000 b
13500 c 49500 c
14000b d 50000 b d
15000b c e 51000 b c e
16000b d g 52000 b d
16500 c 52500 c
17000b 53000 b
18000b c d e f h k 54000 b c d e f h k
19000b 55000 b
19500 c 55500 c
20000b d 56000 b d g
21000b c e 57000 b c e
22000b d 58000 b d
22500 c 58500 c
23000b 59000 b
24000b c d e f g j l 60000 b c d e f j
25000b 61000 b
25500 c 61500 c
26000b d 62000 b d
27000b c e h 63000 b c e h
28000b d 64000 b d g
28500 c 64500 c
29000b 65000 b
30000b c d e f 66000 b c d e f
31000b 67000 b
31500 c 67500 c
32000b d g 68000 b d
33000b c e 69000 b c e
34000b d 70000 b d
34500 c 70500 c
35000b 71000 b
36000b c d e f hj k 72000 b c d e f g h j k l
Then repeat the whole programme
Air Inlet and Exhaust System, Heavy Fuel, 6-3 Camshaft, 9-1
associated parts, 9-1
Air Inlet System, 6-1 Cush Drive, 9-1
Filter, Oil Bath, 6-1 Gear Train, Clearances, 9-5
Inlet Manifold, 6-1 Gearwheel, 9-3
Main Bearings, 9-1
Air Piping, Inhibiting, 14-21
Refitting camshaft and Gear Train, 10-2
Air Reciever, 14-18 Timing, 10-2
Air Start Assembly, Starting Air System, 7-2 Capacities, Sump, 4-4
Controls, 8-1
Engine Control Gear, (Air Starting), 8-1
B Controls and Governor, 8-1
D F
Daily Starting, 15-4 Filter, Lub. Oil, 4-6
ENGINE OPERATION
SECTION CONTENTS
15.1. INITIAL STARTING
15.2. NORMAL OR DAILY STARTING (Standard air starting)
15.3. MANUAL STARTING OF ENGINE WITH AUTOMATIC OR REMOTE START FACILITY
15.4. RUNNING THE ENGINE
15.5. ENGINE ON STANDBY DUTY OR NOT RUN DAILY
15.6. STOPPING THE ENGINE
15.7. MANUAL STOPPING OF ENGINES WITH AUTOMATIC OR REMOTE CONTROL
FACILITY
15.8. LAYING UP THE ENGINE
15.9. ROTATION - To Reverse Direction
15.1. INITIAL STARTING
Before starting the engine for the first time, the operator should read carefully the starting
and stopping instructions below and also that part of the Introduction headed 'Maintenance
and Overhaul' - which should be kept in mind in all work on the engine.
Initial Starting
1) Before starting a new engine, or before starting after a complete overhaul, the following
points should be observed ((1a) and (1b) apply to new or laid up engines only):-
b) Before leaving the Works, every engine is treated internally by spraying with a
protective coating. As much of this as possible should be removed from working
surfaces (such as cams, etc.) with a rag damped with paraffin or oil. What is left will
dissolve in the lubricating oil when the engine is running, without harming the oil.
NOTE: (Use good quality rag - NOT cotton waste). The protective coating can be removed from
exposed bright parts with paraffin, petrol, diesel fuel or a suitable alkaline cleaner. Remove any
protective covering from around the turbocharger intake filter.
Starting Air
2) The air receiver should be charged up by means of a compressor. (See Section 7.1).
3) Fill the engine water cooling system with clean soft water, making sure that the system is
properly vented. (Radiator cooled engines with intercoolers - fill this system also with
clean soft water. Allow radiator to stand for half an hour, then re-check the water level).
Grease the water pump gland(s) (pumps fitted with gland packing). Where a turbocharger
is fitted, check the jacketing of the casings by unscrewing the drain cocks or by slacking off
connections until water flows. Before starting a turbocharger engine that has been standing
for four weeks or more, drain any accumulated moisture from the compressor outlet casing
and the turbine outlet casing by removing the drain plugs.
Fuel (Distillate)
4) Fill the fuel storage tank(s) with clean fuel oil, and fill the daily service tanks. Open the
supply cocks to the engine and vent both bowls of the filter. Slacken one of the plugs at the
far end of the fuel manifold and vent the manifold.
Fuel (Residual)
5) In order to prepare residual fuel to a condition suitable for uses in the engine, it must under
go the treatment outlined in Section 3.10. When starting up such a system, you always start
at the bulk storage tank, raising the fuel temperature to the correct level to allow fuel flow
and opening the system up in stages, ensuring a return flow at each stage. This process will
include circulation of the fuel through both purification and clarification processes before
supply into the daily service tank. For operation of the purifiers/clarifier equipment see the
manufactures own literature. After the daily service tank the fuel is subject to further
heating and filtration via a busrail/changeover module.
6) Before changeover to heavy fuel operation, the fuel must have been circulated through the
busrail module and the air vented from the highest point in the system (ie: the fuel filter),
fuel presence should also be verified at the sample cock on the module.
7) On heavy fuel engines the fuel injectors are cooled, using distillate fuel as the cooling
medium via a self contained system. The distillate fuel used is supplied from the busrail
module to the injector cooling system. This system should be vented and its operation
checked prior to changeover to heavy fuel operation.
Lubricating Oil
8) Fill the sump/tank with fresh lubricating oil to the top mark on the dipstick. Open the valve
on the air receiver, move the control handle to 'Prime' (but not beyond) and vent both bowls
of the lubricating oil filter. Continue priming (using one filter bowl only), until the oil
pressure reaches 0.25 bar. (4 lb/sq.in) for 15 seconds. Move the control handle back to
'STOP'. Close the valve on the air receiver. (See Section 4.1).
9) Fill the turbocharger oil reservoirs to the correct level with a suitable grade of lubricating oil
as shown in Section 4.
10) If a woodward governor is fitted check the level of the oil. (See Section 4.4). Set load limit to
'5' (other than on automatic start sets). Lubricate the ball ends and springbox of the fuel
control linkage.
11) Fill any outer bearing with appropriate oil. (See Section 4.1).
Controls
12) Set control lever to STOP position, bar the engine round at least two complete revolutions
to ensure that the engine is free from undue friction, and that nothing has been left inside to
interfere with the working parts. (Engines with bell housings have a barring bobbin on the
forward end extension shaft).
NOTE: To enable the crankshaft to be turned by hand, the cylinder head plugs (Pub. 61 - ref.
030-01-75) should first have been removed. Remember to replace before attempting to start
up.
13) Refit all engine covers, etc., ensure that the driven unit is ready to run.
14) Open the valve under the water make-up tank and the raw water valves. Prime the raw
water pump.
Starting
18) Re-prime the lubricating oil system then turn the control lever to START. The engine
should immediately turn under the action of the compressed air. As soon as the engine is
turning at a fair speed move the control lever to the WORK position, when the engine will
accelerate to the operating speed, and the air starting supply will be cut off. Woodward
Governor - move the load limit to '10'.
20) Vent the intercooler cooling water system at the highest point.
Initial Checks
21) Check the water pressure gauge to ensure circulation of the engine jacket cooling water.
Also check raw water flow (or switch on radiator fans). Ensure that the engine protection
circuit (if fitted) is operative.
24) Check for water in the air manifold by momentarily opening the drain cock.
26) Check and, if necessary, make final adjustment to the setting of the fresh water control
valves to suit site conditions. See detailed instructions in Section 5.3
2) Check the levels of the engine (and turbocharger) lubricating oil, and of the fuel and fresh
water header tanks, (marine engine - making allowance if the ship is not on an even trim,
also lubricating oil dipstick readings may be inaccurate when a dry sump engine is not
running).
3) Check that the valves on the raw water supply are open.
4) Check that the fuel supplies from both distillate and residual fuel systems are open.
5) (Dry sump engine - open the valve in the return pipe from the lubricating oil tank to the
pressure pump). Prime the engine lubricating oil system.
6) See that the control lever is at STOP. Woodward Governor - set the load limit to '5'.
9) Turn the control lever to PRIME then to WORK. Woodward Governor - move the load to
'10' when the engine is up to nominal speed.
10) Close the valve on the air receiver. Check lubricating oil pressure and the flow of fresh and
raw water (or turn on radiator fans).
11) Close the air inlet manifold drain cock(s) (intercooled engines). Turn on the Engine
Protection Circuit (if fitted).
12) Marine engines - check the level of the lubricating oil again when the ship is on an even
trim.
14) Recharge the air receiver (after venting if necessary through the drain valve).
15) If the engines operating parameters are normal, load may now be applied to the engine.
16) When the engines jacket water system has reached a minimum of 700C, heavy fuel
operation can be selected, providing the correct fuel temperature and pressure has been
achieved in the supply system.
3) Turn on compressed air supply. Move the engine control lever to the 'run' position.
5) Operate the solenoid air valve manually by pressing on the return stop lever. The engine
should then start. Release the return stop lever.
If the cylinder head has been removed and refitted with the Acidoil Gasket, check the
tightness of the nuts after the first 30-50 hours running. (See Section 11, para 9(10). (This
is not necessary with the Ferroflex type).
The drop in pressure between the two sides of the full flow lubricating oil filter should be
checked daily (by pressing the button) with the engine running at full nominal speed and the
An element must be renewed as indicated in Section 18. NOTE: The period of 2,000 hours
(or the first 1,000 hours) refers to the time after the bowl is first put into actual use and does
not include the period when the bowl is primed ready for use but the new element has not yet
been in operation at all.
The exhaust thermometers should all indicate about the same temperature. A serious
difference in temperature indicates unequal distribution of load between the cylinders, and
this should be rectified as soon as possible as described under Uneven Running" (Section
16.2).
The exhaust gas of an engine that is running properly should be quite clear, and any
condition different from this should be corrected as soon as possible.
When an engine may be liable to periods of light load running, it is most important to
maintain the fresh water outlet temperature, otherwise combustion conditions may be
adversely affected. An engine running too cool tends to carbon up rapidly and suffer
corrosion and excessive wear of internal working parts. (See also 'Raw water - intercooled
engines' below).
Any alteration to the raw water flow, to regulate the engine temperature, should be made
slowly. If the jacket cooling system fails, the engine should be shut down as soon as possible.
Cold water should not be used to cool the jacketing if overheating has occurred. It is
dangerous to attempt to cool an engine suddenly after the temperature has risen due to lack
of attention.
The drain cocks on the air inlet manifold(s) of an intercooled engine should be opened at
least once every shift/watch to drain off any accumulated water.
If a variable speed engine is running at minimum speed, it is possible that the fresh water
pressure may fall quite low. However, provided there is a reading on the gauge (above the
static reading) and the pressure rises as soon as the engine speed is increased, this is
permissible.
The 'system live' light on the engine protection panel should remain lit all the time the
engine is running.
If anything unusual is noticed in the running of the engine - such as a quick rise in
temperature without increase of load, or the presence of an unusual smell or noise - the
engine should be stopped as soon as conveniently possible, the cause investigated and the
trouble rectified.
Normally on an intercooled engine, two valves are fitted in the raw water system, one to
control the flow through the intercooler, the other to control the flow bypassing the
intercooler. Increasing the flow through the intercooler will lower the temperature of the
air in the air inlet manifold, and decreasing the flow will raise this temperature. At the same
time, control of the total flow through both valves will determine the rise in raw water
temperature between entering the intercooler and leaving the heat exchanger. An
additional valve enables the flow through any marine gearbox oil cooler to be controlled.
The air temperature in the inlet manifold should be kept as near as possible to the figure
shown in the systems - diagram for the engine, but should not be allowed to fall below 26.7
deg.C (80 deg.F); whilst the rise in temperature between entering the intercooler and
leaving the heat exchanger should be within the limits given on the systems diagram. This
latter adjustment should be made first by controlling the overall flow through the system,
then the air manifold temperature adjusted. Continue adjusting the settings of the valves
until all the temperatures are within acceptable limits. All adjustments must be made with
the engine running at normal temperature on full load and at nominal crankshaft speed.
NOTE: If excessive flows are allowed, the heat transfer equipment may suffer damage by erosion.
If more precise figures are not available, adjust the flow through a marine gearbox oil cooler
to give a raw water temperature, between entering and leaving the cooler, of not less than:-
The rise in temperature should not, however, normally greatly exceed these figures.
In addition to the various points mentioned above, it is good policy to check the lubricating
oil level daily (or as frequently as possible).
Where a set is on standby duty only, it is recommended that the engine should be run for a
few hours, including a period on load, at least every two or three months - more frequently
if possible. Similarly on engines on normal duties, standby pumps and similar gear should
be run at regular intervals.
Approximately 10 minutes before it is intended to shutdown the engine, the engine should
be changed back to distillate fuel operation. This changeover will result in a purging of
residual fuel from the engines fuel system. During this time the engine should remain on
load, preferably at least half load or more.
It is also helpful to run the engine on light load for a few minutes to allow it to cool down
rather than run on full load right up to the time of stopping.
It is normal to select light fuel operation when entering port, during manoeuvring and
docking operations the engine will have run sufficiently to have purge the heavy fuel oil from
the engines system.
Since the gearbox will be in neutral and the engine therefore only idling just before
stopping, simply move the handwheel/lever to STOP.
The valve in the return pipe from the lubricating oil tank to the pressure pump must be
closed. This is necessary even with the tank fitted in the low level position if the ship is liable
to list for any reason.
All engines
It is good practice not to remove crankcase doors or seek access to an engine until it has
cooled down. This is essential if it is suspected that any part has been running very hot, and
in such circumstances, the doors should not be removed until 10 minutes after the engine
has been stopped. In all cases, the part should be allowed to cool slowly and oil should never
be squirted on overheated parts as an explosion may occur.
If the engine is to be laid up for a longer period the following steps should be taken:-
1) Ensure that there is a minimum of carbon, etc., in the engine, i.e. that it has been
decarbonized as shortly as possible before laying-up, since it is the products of combustion
that cause corrosion.
2) Drain and clean the engine sump/tank, trap and filter. Put in the sump/tank a quantity of
preserving oil (Shell Ensis 30 or alternative) equal to half the normal capacity. Clean both
bowls of the filter, wipe out one bowl with preserving oil, and fit a new element to that bowl,
prime it and set the changeover lever to run on that bowl. Drain both turbocharger bearing
reservoirs and refill with preserving oil. Governor - renew the oil. Prime the lubricating oil
system and run the engine for fifteen minutes on NO LOAD.
3) Drain the fuel manifold. Drain the daily service tank(s), clean out and refill with 23 litres (5
gallons) of Shell Fusus 'A' or equivalent preserving oil. Service both bowls of the fuel filter;
wipe out one bowl with preserving oil, fit a new element to both bowls and set the lever to use
the other bowl. Prime the system. Run the engine slowly (300 rpm) on NO LOAD until the
whole of the fuel system is thoroughly primed with the preserving oil.
4) The residual fuel supply system should be flushed with distillate fuel and shutdown.
Manufacturers instructions regarding purification and clarification equipment lay-up
should be observed.
5) Remove the injectors and spray 1/4 litre (half a pint) Ensis 30 preserving oil into each
cylinder. Refit the injectors.
6) Drain turbocharger bearing reservoirs and seal the breather vents with tape. (See
Turbocharger Manufactures' Manual for details of this operation). Remove and store the
drain plugs from the turbocharger compressor and turbine outlet casings.
7) Drain the fresh water system completely unless the water has been treated with anti-freeze
containing inhibitors. A de-watering fluid or oil may be used to advantage - consult the oil
supplier.
9) Grease the water pump glands (if fitted with gland packing).
11) Marine propulsion engines - empty the governor control delay mechanism (when fitted)
and refill with Shell Fusus Oil 'A', working out the air by moving the speed and reverse
control lever several times from Full Ahead" to Full Astern" and back, allowing the delay
mechanism to operate each time.
12) Disconnect any battery and treat this and any other ancillary equipment or driven
machinery according to the makers' recommendations. An engine and driven unit
mounted on bonded rubber anti-vibration mountings should be chocked up during any
period of lay-up to take the weight off the mountings.
13) Tie a label on the starting control wheel with a list of ALL systems drained, valves closed,
etc.
When the engine is to be put into service again, drain off as much of the preserving oil as
possible from the sump by using the priming pump whilst barring the engine round. At the
same time check that all the inlet and exhaust valves move freely. Drain the full flow filter
bowl(s). Drain the turbocharger reservoirs, check that the rotor will spin freely, then fill the
reservoirs with lubricating oil. Empty the daily service tank of preserving oil. Then carry out
the procedure as detailed above under Initial Starting". (Section 15.1). Re-commission
ancillary equipment or driven machinery, following the initial start procedure as
appropriate; dry out electrical machinery if necessary.
Should it be necessary to reverse the direction of rotation of an engine, the following parts
will normally be required for the basic engine, together with any further parts affected in
optional extras fitted to the engine, such as engine driven radiator, belt driven generator,
electric starter motor(s), etc.
NOTE: The engine number on the data plate signifies amongst other things the direction of
rotation and it is therefore important to quote the revised engine number on all orders for spare
parts after altering the engine rotation - hence the inclusion of 'Data plate' in the parts to be
fitted.
Camshaft complete (with driven gearwheel)
Lubricating oil pump(s)
Water pump(s)
Timing Plate (undrilled)