Johannesburg

Maps Events Restaurants Cafs Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Hotels
Johannesburg
and Surrounds
September 2015 - January 2016
Spring Fever
Joburg blossoms as
an art city
Living large
A guide to local luxury

N6 - R35
ISSN 2311-3944
9 772311 394000
johannesburg.inyourpocket.com
Contents
E S S E N TI A L
C I TY G U I D E S
Quick picks
What to eat, drink and do at a glance
Whats on 7
A round-up of the best events
Neighbourhood A-Z
14
Find your way around
Joburg with teens
15
Keep them happy for up to three days
Arriving & getting around
16
Hillbrow from the sky (see p. 49)

Heather Mason
Planes, trains and automobiles
Where to stay
22
34
All City Centre addresses listed in the guide are

referenced to the map on pages 64 and 65
Rooms to suit all budgets
Where to eat
Restaurants, cafs and coffee shops
Art Joburg
Joburg basics
60
Essential information for your stay.
Maps: Neighbourhoods p. 14, Soweto p. 47, City Centre
p. 64, Sandton p. 66
19
Emerging art capital
Nightlife
38
Summer bars, rooftop parties and craft beers
Sightseeing
43
Maboneng 43
Apartheid history
44
Tours and Museums
45
Soweto 46
Ekurhuleni 49
Pretoria
50
Gay Joburg
51
Party with pride and much more
Luxury shopping
52
A guide to indulgence
Shopping
55
How to spend your money
Sport & outdoors
58
Deep breathing and great escapes
Grooming
Pampering essentials
facebook.com/johannesburginyourpocket
59
EDITORS NOTE In Your Pocket City Guides publishes

independent editorial content. We make every effort to
ensure our information is accurate at the time of going
to press, but assume no responsibility for changes and
errors. Venues are selected by our editorial team, and
listings are not paid for.
September 2015 January 2016
Foreword
Jacarandas arent the only things blooming in Joburg in
spring. The city has recently been the toast of the international press, declaring it one of the top emerging art
capitals in the world. Turn to our Art Joburg feature on p.34
to see why. Just a little more than 125 years old, Joburg is
finally starting to blossom as a luxury destination, offering
all sorts of opulent necessities and experiences. We have
compiled a list of the best for you on p. 52. And as the
city continues to develop across its former limits, no trip
to Joburg is complete without exploring its surroundings.
Soweto, Ekurhuleni, Pretoria and Magaliesburg all have enticing attractions, so banish the thought of using Joburg
merely as a one-night stop. Youll also find an essential
guide to Maboneng, a flourishing inner-city district thats
burnishing Joburgs reputation as a hip urban playground,
and a manual for travelling to Joburg with teens, plus plenty more worth turning the pages for. Johannesburg in Your
Pocket is your passport to being a Joburg insider.
Publisher
In Your Pocket City Guides (Pty) Ltd, Postnet Suite #108, Private
Bag X7, Parkview 2122, South Africa. For general enquiries, listings
updates, events notices and distribution information, mail us at
johannesburg@inyourpocket.com.
Editorial
Publisher & Editor Laurice Taitz
Writer & Editorial Consultant Louise Whitworth
Copy-editing & Design Lomin Saayman
Researcher Alyssa Vratsanos
Contributors Carrie Adams, Heather Mason, Anna Trapido,
Lomin Saayman
Photography Heather Mason, Farrah-Diba Singh, Mark Straw,
Justin Lee and In Your Pocket City Guides
Maps In Your Pocket City Guides
COVER STORY
Print and online advertising

Contact laurice.taitz@inyourpocket.com, tel. +27 82 572 3553.
The cover image is titled Frida Kahlo

(2014) by Tony Gum, a photographic
print with photography by Aubrey
Ndiweni (courtesy Christopher
Moller Gallery). Gums work will be
exhibited at the FNB Joburg Art
Fair in September, the highlight
of Joburgs art calendar (see p.
34). Gum, born in Gugulethu in
Western Cape province, is a young
woman artist who has been
marked as a bright young thing and
someone to watch in the booming
contemporary Africa art market.
Copyright notice
Text and photos copyright In Your Pocket City Guides (Pty)
Ltd or as credited. Maps copyright In Your Pocket City Guides
(Pty) Ltd. All rights reserved. No part of this publication may
be reproduced in any form, except as brief extracts for the
purpose of review, without written permission from the
publisher and copyright owner. The brand name In Your
Pocket is used under licence from UAB In Your Pocket.
Print run 10 000 copies, published February, May and September.
ISSN 2311-3944
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SANDTONCITY.C0M
NOW
OPEN
ARQUE CHAMPAGNE CRESCENT

BILLIONAIRE ITALIAN COUTURE
BURBERRY | DOLCE & GABBANA
ERMENEGILDO ZEGNA
GIORGIO ARMANI | GUCCI | JIMMY CHOO
LOUIS VUITTON | PRADA | TODS
With over 300 stores, theres always something for you
Quick picks
Hipster
On the cheap
Take a stroll down 11th Street,

Benmore (p. 30), a low-rise strip
of cheap and cheerful restaurants
near central Sandton. Choose from
Chinese hotpots, two-for one sushi
specials and tasty Indian street food.
Family
For a decadent
Have a fun family feast at the
sweet treat for kids
colourful African-themed restaurant
and adults of all
Moyo Zoo Lake (p. 28). Kids get
ages, head to the
their own menu and entertainment,
Protea Hotel Fire
plus little ones will love the
& Ice! milkshake
traditional African face-painting.
bar (p. 31). Choose from more than
50 irresistible flavours.
High-end
Do
Choose from more

In a converted
than 40 vodkas
1930s warehouse
including
in Maboneng, Che
hard-to-find Polish,
Argentine Grill
Russian and
(p.26) mixes the
Swedish brands and
urban and the rustic with its candlea handcrafted South African variety,
lit interiors, faded industrial signage
at Soviet-themed Lenins Vodka Bar
and juicy steaks cooked over a
(p. 39), a pocket-sized late-night
wood-fired parrilla.
hangout.
Rub shoulders with

the jet set over fine
Enjoy a lazy lunch with a view
wines, cocktails and
at the luxurious Four Seasons
gourmet tapas
Hotel The Westcliff (p. 19). For
while enjoying the
excellent coffee, salads, sandwiches
beats from the citys top DJs at
and pastries try The Deli, or for a
gourmet grill menu theres Flames. LOpulence (p. 30), a plush bar and
lounge in the exclusive Legacy
Corner, Sandton.
History buff
Drink
Discover Sandtons historic side at

The Bull Run (p. 30), an elegant
steakhouse in the quaint Protea
Hotel Balalaika, which began
life as a tearoom back in the days
when the area was still nothing but
farmland.
Once the secret

Admire the mix of grand early 20thheadquarters of
century architecture on historic
the resistance
Beyers Naud Square from the
movement, the
wrought-iron balcony of The
interactive
Guildhall (p. 39), Joburgs oldest
Liliesleaf museum (p. 44) tells the
pub, which first opened its doors
dramatic story of the 1963 Rivonia
in 1888.
raid which led Nelson Mandela and
his comrades to life in prison.
Unexpected
Eat
Sample spicy
kebabs, biryanis
and traditional
sweetmeats in
the bustling Indian neighbourhood,
Fordsburg. For the best samoosas
and bargains galore, visit the
bazaar-like shopping mecca
Oriental Plaza (p.56).
Join James
Dalton Sr, avid
Sink your feet into warm, white
collector of
sand as you lie back on a deckchair
Springbok
with an iced cocktail and gaze out
memorabilia and
over the inner-city skyscrapers at
all-round rugby
The Beach (p. 38), a weekly pop- fanatic, on a behind-the-scenes tour
up bar on a Braamfontein rooftop. of Emirates Airline Park (p. 45), and
a visit to the stadiums quirky rugby
museum.
Follow the citys students down to

7th Street Melville, Joburgs party
street. The friendly and fun SIX
Cocktail Bar (p. 40) is a winner with
a daily two-for-one cocktail happy
hour from 12:0019:00.
Shop for vintage clothing and Afrochic accessories, visit the Smack!
Republic microbrewery, enjoy
freshly brewed Ethiopian coffee,
snack on gourmet street food
and join the rooftop salsa party at
Market on Main (p. 43), the innercitys coolest Sunday market.
Bargain hard at Joburgs biggest
craft market, the Rosebank Art
and Craft Market (p. 56), famed
for its wide variety of high-quality
African souvenirs and one-of-a-kind
handmade gifts.
Dedicated to the
story of evolution,
the Origins Centre
(p. 45) is an exciting
hands-on museum that traces the
history of humanity back to its
African source. Get the most out of
a family visit by booking a tour.
For a gentle
approach to the
great outdoors, a
sunrise hot-air
balloon ride is one of the most
refined ways to travel. Float above
the Magaliesburg Valley with Bill
Harrops Original Balloon Safaris
(p. 58).
Whats On
RetroFest, Nirox Sculpture Park
FESTIVALS AND FAIRS

19.09 SATURDAY
SPEAK THE MIND SESSION 10
This annual poetry and music session is themed Graft,
Class, White Privilege and Black Rage, and is headlined
by multi-award-winning US spoken word poet Black Ice,
king of the Zulu guitar Madala Kunene, and popular Afro
soul band The Muffinz.QBassline, 10 Henry Nxumalo St,
Newtown, tel. +27 11 838 9142, bassline.co.za. Tickets
R100 at Computicket.
24.09 THURSDAY
HERITAGE DAY
This public holiday celebrates South Africas diverse cultural heritage. Look out for a series of special tours and
exhibitions led by local heritage and history experts Johannesburg Heritage Foundation as part of Heritage
Weekend (see www.joburgheritage.co.za for the latest
info), and a family Heritage Day celebration at the Sophiatown Heritage and Cultural Centre.
24.09 THURSDAY
PARKWORDS
This one-day literary event takes place at various venues
along the main street of the village-like suburb of Parkview.
Enjoy debates, discussions and talks throughout the day
with local journalists, authors and media personalities, as
well as a special kids programme.QTyrone Ave, Parkview,
www.parkview.org.za.
24.09 THURSDAY 03.10 SATURDAY
JOBURG SHOPPING FESTIVAL
Describing itself as Africas signature shopping event,
this festival promises shoppers great bargains and promotions, extended shopping hours and a whopping
R1m worth of prizes. Joburgs major malls Sandton City,
Rosebank Mall, Oriental Plaza and Eastgate Shopping
Centre are all taking part (see Shopping).QVarious locations, www.joburgshoppingfestival.co.za.

STANDARD BANK JOY OF JAZZ
Three days and four stages this celebration of all things
jazz includes performances by major local and international acts, such as US bass guitarist Marcus Miller and
trumpeter Hugh Masekela.QSandton Convention Centre, www.joyofjazz.co.za. Day pass R750.
ECOMOBILITY FESTIVAL 2015
This ambitious festival will see parts of Sandtons central
business district closed to cars for the duration of October in an effort to promote more sustainable modes of
travel such as walking, cycling and public transport. For
the latest updates, check the EcoMobility blog.Qwww.
ecomobilityfestival.org.
03.10 SATURDAY
A BLOOMING AFFAIR
The lush gardens of one of Joburgs oldest and most prestigious private schools will be opened for the day with guided
walks, craft stalls and a Champagne and salmon tea garden.
QRoedean School, Princess of Wales Terrace, Parktown,
www.abloomingaffair.co.za. Tickets R30.
04.10 SUNDAY
VODACOM IN THE CITY
This years festival moves from the streets of Newtown
to the banks of Emmarentia Dam. Brit-pop rockers The
Kooks headline alongside German psychedelic folk duo
Milky Chance and Australian ska-jazz band The Cat Empire.
QOlifants Rd, Emmarentia, www.inthecityjhb.co.za.
From 10:0018:00. Tickets R495.
For venue addresses, see p. 12, and for an up-to-theminute events guide to Joburg, go online to
iyp.me/70561ch, follow us on Facebook, or sign up
for our free weekly Whats On newsletter
Whats On
CONCERTS
September
19
Major League Gardens. Hip hop and

kwaito. Innes Free Park, Grayston Dr,
Sandton, majorleague.co.za
24
Pharrell Williams. TicketPro Dome,

www.bigconcerts.co.za
October
3
Ekurhuleni Spring Fiesta. Open-air

house music festival. Wild Waters, off
N12, Boksburg, www.springfiesta.co.za
New soul, Afropop and hip hop.

Pretoria Botanic Gardens, Cussonia Ave,
dogreatthings.co.za
17
Little Dragon. Venue to be announced,

little-dragon.net
18
Beethovens Missa Solemnis. Classical

concert. Linder Auditorium
November
8
Around the World in 80 Minutes with

the Johannesburg Festival Orchestra,
Linder Auditorium
28
Carols by Candlelight ft. Bala

Brothers. Walter Sisulu Botanic Gardens,
dogreatthings.co.za
December
5, 6
Christmas with conductor Richard

Cock and the Johannesburg Festival
Orchestra. Linder Auditorium
January
29
Rodriguez. TicketPro Dome, www.

bigconcerts.co.za
Regular events
Last Sun of
the month
10:00
19:00
Park Acoustics. Open-air music festival

with popular local bands. Pretoria
Voortrekker Monument, Eeufees Rd,
Pretoria, www.parkacoustics.co.za
Last Fri of
the month
19:00
Sophiatown Jazz Encounters. Intimate

jazz concert in the historic home of
Joburg jazz, Sophiatown Heritage Centre
First Sat of
the month
The Warm Up Jozi. House-music

party on an inner-city rooftop.
Citilec building, Main St, Maboneng.
TheWarmUpJozi
For the best live music and jazz clubs, see p. 42.
The Soil, Jozi Summershine Festival
2.10 FRIDAY 4.10 SUNDAY

SA ANTIQUE, ART AND DESIGN EXPO
Admire many exquisite exhibits or consider making an investment at this leading antiques expo.QWanderers Club,
21 North St, Illovo, www.saada.co.za. Tickets from R100.
SANLAM HANDMADE CONTEMPORARY FAIR
Over 100 exhibitors take part in this boutique rooftop market where Proudly South African designer products are on
sale, as well as great local speciality foods, wines and craft
beers.QHyde Park Corner, 6th Rd, cnr Jan Smuts Ave,
Hyde Park, www.sanlamhmc.co.za. Tickets R100, children under 12 free.
28.10 WEDNESDAY 30.10 FRIDAY
RMB WINEX 2015
More than 100 local and international wine producers
gather for one of the biggest wine events of the year.
QSandton Convention Centre, www.winex.co.za.
28.10 WEDNESDAY 31.10 SATURDAY
AFRICAN FUTURES FESTIVAL
One of three festivals taking place concurrently across the
continent. Prominent artists, filmmakers and writers discuss
Africas future and show why, as one Cameroonian writer
put it, living in Africa right now is science fiction.QGoethe
Institut, 119 Jan Smuts Ave, Parkwood, and The Bioscope,
286 Fox St, Maboneng, www.goethe.de/africanfutures.
21.10 WEDNESDAY 22.10 THURSDAY
BUSINESS OF DESIGN
The leading event for design-industry professionals, attended by the whos who of the design world. This conference offers excellent networking opportunities for
designers and creative entrepreneurs.QTickets R3 950,
students R2 500, www.businessofdesign.co.za.
EVENT TICKETS
Computicket, 0861 915 8000, www.online.computicket.com.web. Webtickets, 0861 225 598, www.
webtickets.co.za. Ticketpro, 0861 008 277, www.
ticketpros.co.za.
Whats On
31.10 SATURDAY
HUDDLE PARK BEERFEST
A craft-beer festival with DJs and live music, gourmet food
stalls and dozens of local microbrews to try.QHuddle
Park Golf Club, Club St, Linksfield, tel. +27 11 640 4456,
www.huddlepark.com. Tickets R50R100.
1.12 TUESDAY 6.12 SUNDAY

KAMERS
A veritable treasure trove of handcrafted items, this huge
and festive food and design market is an excellent place
to shop for gifts.QIrene, Pretoria, www.kamersvol.com.
From 09:00-18:00. Tickets R50 online, or R70.
31.10 SATURDAY
RETROFEST #4
Set in Nirox Sculpture Park in the Cradle of Humankind,
Retrofest showcases South Africas best contemporary
acoustic musicians. This years lineup includes Josie Field,
Justin Serrao, and The Runaway Train Cult. Youll also find
gourmet food and high-end design objects for sale.QNirox
Sculpture Park, 24 Kromdraai Rd, Krugersdorp, www.
acousticsnow.org. From 10:0018:00. Tickets from R300.
13.12 SUNDAY
JOZI SUMMERSHINE FESTIVAL
A new summer festival that includes performances by local a cappella funk super-group The Soil, and American
neo-soul star Musiq Soulchild.QMarks Park, Judith Rd,
Emmarentia, www.jozisummershine.co.za. Tickets
R450R695.
11.11 WEDNESDAY 13.11 FRIDAY

WHISKY LIVE FESTIVAL
Those with sophisticated tastes can sample some of the
worlds finest whiskies and cigars.QSandton Convention
Centre, www.whiskylivefestival.co.za. From 18:0022:00.
South Africans find humour in even the most frustrating

moments, and Joburg has its fair share of great comedians.
Comedy nights worth checking out include the weekly
The Box stand-up comedy night at POPArt Theatre in
Maboneng, a popular platform for young, up-and-coming
and established comedians to test new material (Sun at
19:30, popartcentre.co.za), the hilarious monthly Jittery
Citizens improv session at the Market Theatre in Newtown (last Sun of the month at 15:15, markettheatre.co.za),
and The Bassline Comedy Night, a monthly two-hour
stand-up comedy showcase that regularly attracts some
of the countrys best comedians (last Fri of the month from
19:00, www.bassline.co.za).
28.11 SATURDAY
SANSUI SUMMER CUP 2015
Dress up in your finest for a day at the races at Joburgs most fashionable horse-racing event (a dress
code applies strictly no jeans or flip-flops).QTurffontein Racecourse, 14 Turf Club St, Turffontein, www.
sansuisummercup.co.za.
COMEDY
Whats On
LIVING HISTORY
UNTIL 30.11 MONDAY
AHMED TIMOL: A QUEST FOR JUSTICE
A moving investigative exhibition into the life and times
of anti-apartheid activist Ahmed Timol, who died in police custody in 1971. Timol was the first of six detainees
who were ruled to have killed themselves by jumping
from the window of John Vorster Square police station,
despite evidence to the contrary that suggests they
were tortured and murdered by the police.QApartheid
Museum, cnr Northern Parkway and Gold Reef Rd,
Ormonde, tel. +27 11 309 4700, www.apartheidmuseum.org. Open 09:0017:00. Tickets R75.
TITANIC: THE ARTIFACT EXHIBITION
Walk the central staircase or on the first-class deck and
get to know what life was like aboard the worlds most
infamous ship. This massive exhibition includes hundreds of historic objects relating to the ill-fated cruise
liner, items salvaged from the wreckage and compelling
stories of bravery in the face of certain death. Interactive
exhibits and games make this a perfect family outing.
QThe Zone@Rosebank, 177 Oxford Rd, Rosebank,
www.titanicexpo.co.za. Open 09:0019:00. Tickets:
adults, R135, kids under 17, R85.
CHILDRENS THEATRE
Until 11.10
A Year With Frog And Toad. National

Childrens Theatre, 3 Junction Ave, Parktown, www.nationalchildrenstheatre.
org.za
14.09
11.10
Once Upon A Time... Peoples Theatre,

Joburg Theatre Complex, www.
peoplestheatre.co.za
9.1120.12
Hair Spray Junior. National Childrens

Theatre
7.1130.12
Janice Honeymans Sleeping Beauty.

A lavish panto production. Joburg
Theatre
Dinner theatre at Madam Zingara, Montecasino
THEATRE AND DANCE

The historic Market Theatre is the place to go if you
want to see major South African drama theatre, while
the Auto & General Theatre on the Square is also
well-known for its local productions. Montecasinos
two theatres regularly attract international productions,
as does the Joburg Theatre. The Soweto Theatre stages new productions by upcoming and established South
African playwrights (see p. 46).
UNTIL 13.09 SUNDAY
CINCINATTI: SCENES FROM CITY LIFE
First staged in 1979, this thought-provoking play is set in
the Sin Sin Club, a disco in 1970s apartheid Joburg that
was one of the only places in the country where people of
different races could mix freely. The play reveals the harsh
realities of oppression and intolerance through the everyday lives of the clubs diverse patrons.QMarket Theatre.
Tickets R90R180. Dinner packages available.
UNTIL 13.09 SUNDAY
JOBURG BALLET
South Africas most inspiring ballet company stages
two concurrent productions: a classical performance of
Don Quixote and Celebration 7, a gala show featuring
scenes from a number of ballets performed by some of
the companys best soloists.QJoburg Theatre. Tickets
R100R400.
UNTIL 27.09 SUNDAY
EPSTEIN: THE MAN WHO MADE THE BEATLES
This two-hander imagines the drug-fuelled final days
of the music entrepreneur and Beatles manager Brian
Epstein. Once described by Paul McCartney as the fifth
Beatle, Epstein was a brilliant but troubled man who died
of a drug overdose in 1967, aged just 32.QPieter Toerien
Theatre, Montecasino. Tickets R130R165.
03.09 THURSDAY 13.09 SUNDAY
ALVIN AILEY AMERICAN DANCE THEATRE
The worlds most successful modern dance company
brings to the stage a thrilling blend of theatricality, energy,
sensuality and raw power.QTeatro at Montecasino.
Tickets R100R475.
Whats On
3.09 THURSDAY 20.09 SUNDAY
UNDONE / ONT
Wessel Pretoriuss multi-award-winning one-man play is an
unconventional and powerful insight into the lingering effects of a dysfunctional childhood combining dance, poetry and prose.QMarket Theatre. Performances in English
on Tue, Fri, Sat, Sun and in Afrikaans on Wed, Thu. Tickets
R90R180. Dinner packages available
14.09 MONDAY 03.10 SATURDAY
MAKING MANDELA
This enchanting and imaginative production tells the
story of the young Nelson Mandela, tracing his steps
from a childhood in the remote hills of Eastern Cape to
his eventual arrival in Joburg as a young man. This is the
charming story of Mandela the boy, rather than the icon
he became.QAuto & General Theatre on the Square.
Tickets R70R140.
30.09 WEDNESDAY 1.11 SUNDAY
BLACK & BLUE
Two giants of the South African stage, Sylvaine Strike and
Atandwa Kani, join forces for this touching tale of a blossoming friendship between a grief-stricken widow and her gardener, a parable for South Africa after apartheid.QMarket
Theatre. Tickets R90R180. Dinner packages available
SWEENEY TODD
Popular South African stage singer Jonathan Roxmouth
stars as the demon barber in this dark tale of murder, revenge and a macabre Victorian pie shop.QPieter Toerien
Theatre, Montecasino. Tickets R100R350.
10.10 SATURDAY 24.10 SATURDAY
PRIVATE PRESLEY: A SALUTE TO THE KING
Sean Bovims rock n roll ballet is a swinging tribute to
the one-and-only king of rock n roll.QJoburg Theatre.
Tickets R250R320.
04.11 WEDNESDAY 31.12 THURSDAY
MADAME ZINGARA: THE CELEBRATION
Incredible acrobatics, cabaret, humour, camp comedy,
magic and a four-course meal await in a grand Victorian
mirrored tent.QMontecasino, www.madamezingara.
com. Arrive at 18:30 for a 19:30 start. Advance bookings
required. Tickets R650R1 250.
11.11 WEDNESDAY 07.12 MONDAY
SONGS FROM JAZZTOWN
A celebration of South Africas rich jazz heritage with a
particular focus on the music of the 1950s its so-called
golden era.QMarket Theatre. Tickets R90R180.
03.12 THURSDAY 10.01.2016 SUNDAY
THE IMPERIAL ICE STARS: SWAN LAKE ON ICE
Twenty-four Olympic and World Championship ice skaters
perform Tchaikovskys famous love story.QTeatro, Montecasino. Tickets R150R400.
11
Whats On
MY JOBURG
In 2015 the Goethe-Institut
celebrated 20 years in
Joburg and a rich cultural
programme that continues
to shape peoples experience
of the city. We interviewed
director Norbert Spitz.
Norbert Spitz has been shipped to more cities and hotspots that most people have visited. Beirut, Kabul, Khartoum. Also Munich and Montreal, and, prior to Joburg,
Bangkok. Goethe directors are ready to move, he says,
usually transferred every four to five years.
From Bangkok to Joburg alone is a passage across
the universe. From cities that dont sleep Spitz arrived
in a city where many sleep with one eye open, and
often formerly white suburbs after dark resemble a curfew zone. You can easily imagine the culture shock of
leaving a city where at 3am in less than a minute youll
get a taxi, to come here, he says. One night I left the
office at 8:30pm. There were no cars, nobody walking
the streets The next morning I asked my staff who
played the big game last night. It must have been important, I said. His second surprise was arriving at gym
one morning at 6:30 and thinking, Is there a sale going
on? There were around 200 cars in the parking lot.
The Goethe-Institut began in Germany in 1952,
providing a way to re-enter the international community. Nobody will doubt that before world war two
Germany was a civilised and cultured nation, says Spitz.
The idea was to use culture as a way of re-establishing relations with neighbours. The Institut focuses on
bringing artists and intellectuals together from across
the continent to create programmes, to meet and
exchange ideas. Based in Parkwood, it also provides
a platform for emerging artists at its project space in
Maboneng in the inner-city, and offers online courses
and German language courses.
Today the Goethe-Institut operates in 52 countries.
After big changes you need a discourse in which a
whole society participates to deal with the past and reflect on history. He says, I am not at all afraid of coming
to places in transition. Its always been more interesting.
For Joburg visitors Spitzs recommends:
Start with a stroll around the City Centre for its impressive architecture. You will see history stopped in the
1980s. One of my favourite places to stop for lunch or
a drink on the first-floor balcony is the historic pub, the
Guildhall. I recommend three hours in the Apartheid
Museum, a precondition to understand Joburg now. A
tour of Constitution Hill will give you a feel of what this
society went through. For another impression of the city
I suggest the Oriental Plaza in Fordsburg, and Braamfontein in the evening for jazz and nightlife.Q119 Jan
Smuts Ave, Parkwood, www.goethe.de/johannesburg. See Sightseeing for venue addresses.
15.01.2016 FRIDAY 13.03.2016 SUNDAY

SINGING IN THE RAIN
An all-star toe-tapping musical. Those sitting in the front
rows may wish to bring their own umbrellas as the show
reportedly uses some 12 000 litres of water to recreate the
song made famous by Gene Kelly in the 1952 film.QTeatro
at Montecasino. Tickets R300R500.
CULINARY EVENTS
Any day of the week is market day in Joburg, and many offer delicious food and drinks, a wide variety of craft goods
and vintage items, collectibles, knickknacks and musthave souvenirs. For our pick of Joburg markets, see p. 57.
THE FORUM COMPANY
One of the citys leading gourmet-event organisers, the
Forum Company is famous for its fabulous venues such as
Turbine Hall, a former power station in Newtown given an
impressive makeover, and LAntico Giardino, a scenic farmhouse in Lanseria, north of Johannesburg. Look out for the
following culinary events:
27 September: Fte de la Gastronomie, LAntico Giardino;
21 October: Week of Taste, Forum Campus, Bryanston
24 October: Week of Taste, Turbine Hall
11 and 12 December: The Forum Festival, Forum Campus,
Bryanston.Qwww.theforum.co.za.
VENUE ADDRESS BOOK

AUTO & GENERAL THEATRE ON THE SQUARE Nelson
Mandela Square, West St, Sandton, tel. +27 82 553 5901,
www.theatreonthesquare.co.za
JOBURG THEATRE C-2, 163 Civic Blvd (formerly
Loveday St), Braamfontein, tel. 0861 670 670, www.
joburgtheatre.com
LINDER AUDITORIUM 27 St Andrews Rd, Parktown, tel.
+27 11 789 2733, www.jpo.co.za
MARKET THEATRE B-4, Cnr Lilian Ngoyi (formerly Bree
St) and Miriam Makeba Sts, Newtown, tel. +27 11 832
1641, markettheatre.co.za
MONTECASINO Cnr William Nicol Dr and Witkoppen
Rd, Fourways, tel. +27 11 510 7365, www.montecasino.
co.za
SANDTON CONVENTION CENTRE Maude St, Sandton
Central, tel. +27 11 779 0000, www.saconvention.co.za
SOPHIATOWN HERITAGE AND CULTURAL CENTRE
73 Toby St (cnr Edward Rd), Sophiatown, tel. +27 11 673
1271, www.sophiatown.net
TICKETPRO DOME Cnr Northumberland Rd and
Olievenhout Ave, North Riding, tel. +27 11 794 5800,
www.ticketprodome.co.za
WALTER SISULU BOTANICAL GARDENS Malcolm Rd,
Roodepoort, tel. +27 86 100 1278, www.sanbi.org
Whats On
TUESDAYS 22.09, 27.10 AND 24.11

SCIENCE AND COCKTAILS
This new monthly event at a jazz club brings science out
of the lab and into the bar, combining fun lectures and
talks on topics such as genetic ancestry and light technologies, with molecular cocktails and a jazz concert.
QC-2, The Orbit, 81 De Korte St, Braamfontein. Starts
at 20:00. Tickets R20.
18.09 FRIDAY 31.10 SATURDAY

RUGBY WORLD CUP 2015
South Africans love their rugby, and if you want to make
fast friends with the locals, cheer on the national team,
the Springboks, who have a small chance of taking home
the trophy at Rugby World Cup 2015, which takes place
in the UK. Turn to p. 45 to read more about Joburgs very
own rugby museum.
SPORT
31.10 SATURDAY
KAIZER CHIEFS VS ORLANDO PIRATES
The football match between Soweto arch rivals Orlando Pirates and Kaizer Chiefs is one of the most famous
sporting events in Africa. The 95 000-seater FNB stadium
fills to capacity with some of the worlds most enthusiastic sports fans. If you would like to watch the match at
the stadium, we advise you book tickets well in advance.
QFNB Stadium, Nasrec Rd, Nasrec. Kick-off is at 15:30.
12.09 SATURDAY
RED BULL X-FIGHTERS
Pretorias Union Buildings form the backdrop for this thrilling motocross competition, part of the fearless Red Bull X
Fighters World Tour. Watch crazy freestyle cyclists defy gravity
in impressive stunts performed in front of a 22000-strong
crowd.QGovernment Ave, Union Buildings, Pretoria,
www.redbullxfighters.com. Starts 14:00. Tickets R200.
20.09 SUNDAY
BMW POLO INTERNATIONAL TOURNAMENT
South Africa play New Zealand in this prestigious international polo event. The Kiwis have reigned victorious for the
past four years, meaning South Africa has everything to
play for.QWaterfall Polo Estate, Woodmead Dr, Midrand,
www.sapolo.co.za. Starts at 10:00. Tickets from R120.
www.johannesburg.inyourpocket.com
SOUTH AFRICA VS ENGLAND

The English cricket team are on tour in South Africa this
summer and take on the mighty Proteas in Gauteng in
January 2016 in two epic test matches. The two teams
will also be squaring up in a series of T20 and one-day
international matches in February 2016. 14.01.2016
18.01.2016 South Africa vs England Third Test Match.
QBidvest Wanderers Stadium, 39 Corlett Dr, Illovo.
22.01.201626.01.2016 South Africa vs England Fourth
Test Match.QSuperSportPark, Centurion West Rd, Centurion, Pretoria.
13
Neighbourhoods
Hillbrow surrounded by blooming jacarandas
BRAAMFONTEIN If youre looking for Joburgs uber-cool

party central, youll find it in Braam, filled with students,
fixie-bike hipster cyclists, gourmet coffee and plenty of
limited-edition brand stores.
CITY CENTRE While the City Centre is still the victim of a
poor reputation, it is rich in history and a must-visit. See
the revitalised Main Street Mining District to learn about
Joburgs mining heritage and enjoy the citys caf culture.
CHINATOWNS Youll find First Chinatown in the inner city
full of fireworks and the oldest Chinese restaurant, Swallows Inn. Its bigger and brasher rival is New Chinatown in
Derrick Avenue, Cyrildene.
FORDSBURG With its bold colour, spicy streets, enticing flavours and bargains galore, this is the heart of Indian Joburg.
GREENSIDE AND THE PARKS Including the green and leafy
suburbs of Parkhurst, Parkview and Parktown North, the
Parks boast wonderful guest houses, neighbourhood high
streets and a village-like atmosphere.
MELVILLE A quirky suburb famed for its independent restaurants, buzzing nightlife and alternative hangouts, such
as the newly launched 27 Boxes shipping-container shopping centre. This is Joburgs bohemian suburb.
ILLOVO AND MELROSE Located between Sandton and
Rosebank, Illovo is a restaurant hub with cool cafs and
pubs. Nearby Melrose Arch is a favourite for fans of sanitised
street life and designer-label shopping.
SANDTON Corporate central and luxury hotel headquarters
with enough shopping to satisfy anyone, from West African oil billionaires, government ministers and presidents of
small countries to manicured socialites and tourists.
Mark Straw
HOTSPOTS
MABONENG The name means place of light and this
inner-city lifestyle playground is constantly in a state of
reinvention. Read our guide to what to do and see in
this fashionably alternative district (p. 43).
ROSEBANK High-street shopping, local fashion labels,
cinemas, African crafts, a rooftop market and buzzing
restaurants and cafs (p. 56).
All text added in InDesign
SOWETO We talk to township tourism pioneer Lebo

Malepa of Lebos Soweto Backpackers and Bicycle
Tours about his contribution to making Soweto a top
tourist attraction (p. 46).
N1
Cradle of Humankind (28km) NW

Lanseria (47km) NW
Pretoria (59km) NE
Sun City (128km) NW
Kruger Park (495km) E
Durban (568km) SE
Cape Town (1,397km) SW
lD
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Willia
BRYANSTON
M1
PARKHURST
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MELVILLE
AUCKLAND PARK
44 STANLEY AVE
OR TAMBO
INTERNATIONAL
AIRPORT
MELROSE
ROSEBANK
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GREENSIDE
ALEXANDRA
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ILLOVO
HYDE PARK
PARKTOWN NORTH
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Distances calculated from city centre
Alb
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NEW CHINATOWN
PARKTOWN
BRAAMFONTEIN
FORDSBURG NEWTOWN MABONENG

OLD CHINATOWN CENTRAL BUSINESS DISTRICT
M2
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Soweto Hi
SOWETO
Chris H
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Golden Highway
14 Johannesburg
In Your
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JOBURG NEIGHBOURHOODS
2014/04/22 12:08:21 PM
Joburg with teens
From left, Lebos Soweto Bicycle Tours, Pauls Homemade Ice-cream, Salvationcafe, Past Experiences grafitti tour
Holidaying with teenagers can be tricky but fortunately

Joburg has plenty of activities to satisfy any demands.
Whether you are spending one day or a few, we have put
together a crowd-pleasing itinerary.
DAY 1
MORNING
Start in Rosebank with hot chocolate at Motherland
Coffee Company and for free wi-fi online time (The
Zone@Rosebank, 177 Oxford Rd, tel. +27 11 447 8125,
www.motherlandcoffee.com). Shop for souvenirs at
Rosebank Art and Craft Market (p. 56) before catching
the Gautrain (p. 17) to Park Station to board the open-top
City Sightseeing Bus (p. 45). For a panoramic city view,
get off at the Carlton Centre and ride the lift to the 50th
floor Roof of Africa (150 Commissioner St, City Centre).
AFTERNOON
Hop off the bus at Main Street in historic Marshalltown
to visit Chancellor House, once Nelson Mandelas legal
practice, and the impressive Shadowboxing statue, a
perfect selfie stop (p. 44). Pick up sandwiches at Monchhichi next door and then do a graffiti walking tour with
Past Experiences (advance bookings required, see p. 45).
EVENING
At The Zone@Rosebank, the pizza-pasta menu at Piza e
Vino will please everyone (tel. +27 11 447 6569, www.pizaevino. co.za), and afterwards compete to win at The Fun
Companys bowling alley (First floor, The Zone@Rosebank,
tel. +27 11 447 4099, www.thefuncompany.co.za).
DAY 2
MORNING
Eat breakfast al fresco at Salvationcafe in 44 Stanley (see p.
32), a boutique complex of 1930s industrial buildings. Head
to Soweto for a cycling tour with Lebos Soweto Bicycle
Tours (see p. 48). Learn about the townships 1976 youth
uprising at Hector Pieterson Memorial (see p. 44), meet
the locals and round off with a homemade bunny chow and
a rest in the hammock at Lebos Outdoor Restaurant.
AFTERNOON
Sowetos iconic Orlando cooling towers (see p. 46)
are a hub for thrill-seekers. Daredevil teenagers might
insist on a bungee jump or a tower swing and nearby at
Soweto Outdoor Adventures you can try rock climbing,
go-karting and paintballing. Back in Joburg stop in at
Melvilles 27 Boxes (see p. 26), a shopping centre made
from shipping containers, for Pauls Homemade Icecream and cool locally made gift items.
EVENING
For a lively family dinner of traditional Greek fare book a
table at Greek taverna Parea (3 Corlett Dr, Illovo, tel.+27
11 788 8777, www.parea.co.za). Afterwards treat the family
to a night at the theatre or a comedy show (see pp. 713).
DAY 3
MORNING
Breakfast croissants at Fournos bakery are a must, and
also pick up some deli goodies for an afternoon picnic
(Dunkeld West Shopping Centre, 224 Jan Smuts Ave,
Dunkeld, tel. +27 11 325 2110, www.fournos.co.za). A
40-minute drive north is the Unesco-protected Cradle
of Humankind, where you can tour the Sterkfontein
Caves (see p. 58) to learn about our earliest ancestors.
AFTERNOON
Enjoy a lazy picnic and a walk through the magnificent
Walter Sisulu Botanical Gardens (see p. 58). Follow one
of the hiking trails and look out for rare black eagles. Back
in Joburg the teens will love Acrobranch aerial adventure
obstacle course (James and Ethel Gray Park, Melrose, tel.
+27 78 438 7463, www.acrobranch.co.za).
EVENING
Dine at African-themed Moyo (see p. 28) in nearby Melrose Arch. Choose from typical South African grilled items,
or exotic specialities such as crocodile pie. Afterwards kids
can enjoy the latest blockbuster in style at Ster-Kinekor
Prestige cinema in The Zone@Rosebank (tel. 0861 668 437,
www.sterkinekor.com) while you relax over whisky and jazz
at Katzys bar (Cnr Cradock and Biermann Aves).
15
Arriving & Getting Around
Jozi Rise, Farrah-Diba Singh
Joburg has a large public transport system that is currently

and constantly being upgraded to include new bus routes
and cycle lanes. Services like the Gautrain linking Joburg
City Centre, Sandton, Pretoria and O.R. Tambo International
Airport have proven particularly popular. Depending on
the length of your stay you might find that renting a car
makes life easier as outside the city centre there are entire
neighbourhoods that can be difficult or impossible to
reach with public transport and not all services are reliable.
FLYING AND AIRPORTS

Joburg is served by two airports: the major transport hub,
O.R. Tambo International Airport, 30km east of Sandton, and the smaller Lanseria Airport, 30km north-west of
Sandton. Most international flights pass through O.R. Tambo,
while Lanseria is increasingly used by budget airlines serving
destinations both in South Africa and in other African countries. The busiest times are in the evening and morning when
most transcontinental flights arrive and depart.
USEFUL APPS
UBER The international taxi booking app Uber operates
in Joburg. Download the app and register to find and
order cabs anywhere in the city, at any time.
* First-time users should use our special discount code
worth R200 off your first ride (see p. 3) when downloading the app.
ACSA The Airports Company South Africa (ACSA) operates all of the countrys major airports. Download the
free app to receive live flight updates, weather bulletins, check-in online, find useful contact numbers and
guide yourself around the airport by GPS.
GAUTRAIN If you plan to use the Gautrain during your
visit, this is a very useful accessory. Check up-to-date
timetables, access route maps, view tariffs and track
where your nearest Gautrain bus is (see box on p. 17).
O.R. TAMBO AIRPORT

Southern Africas biggest airport is spacious and modern,
and has loads of nice shops. The domestic terminal has a
wide range of stores, including a useful supermarket. The
building is easy to navigate. Passengers are served by two
terminals A and B which merge after you have passed
through the security checkpoints. The check-in for domestic and South African Airways (SAA) flights is at Terminal
B. For security purposes have your bags safely locked or
wrapped, and only hand over your bag to staff at the checkin counter. For real-time flight information, text your flight
number to 35007. If you have some time on your hands
head for the viewing deck to see a small but worthwhile
exhibition on the life of Oliver Reginald Tambo, a national
hero.QTel. +27 11 921 6262 (airport help desk), +27 86
727 7888 (flight information), www.acsa.co.za.
Getting to/from O.R. Tambo Airport Catch the Gautrain
rapid rail to various destinations in Joburg and Pretoria. For
trains to Pretoria or downtown Joburg, change at Sandton.
A ticket from Sandton to O.R. Tambo Airport costs R142. After hours you will need to use a taxi or book a shuttle bus.
Ortiata Taxis (tel. +27 86 124 3243, www.jiata.co.za) start
from R15.50 p/km. Follow the signs in the airport to the
taxi booking office.
LANSERIA AIRPORT
Lanseria serves mainly short-haul destinations. It is also the
airport of choice for many charter flights to private game
reserves, and used by local budget carriers such as Mango
and Kulula.QTel. +27 11 367 0300, www.lanseria.co.za.
Getting to/from Lanseria Airport Lanseria is served by
taxis (Lanseria Taxis, tel. +27 11 326 3260 or +27 79 066
6435, www.lanseriataxis.com) and private shuttles.
AIRPORT PARKING AND SHUTTLE BUSES
Pre-booked shuttle buses from both airports to Joburg
destinations start at around R400 per person. Try EZ Shuttle (tel. 0861 397 488 or +27 12 348 8040, www.ezshuttle.
co.za) or Rhino Shuttles (tel. +27 11 793 2282, www.rhinoshuttles.co.za). For discount airport valet parking there is
Mr Parking (tel. +27 72 903 8212, www.mrparking.co.za).

LOCAL AIRLINES
Joburg is served by the national carrier South African
Airways (SAA) and a number of budget domestic airlines.
SAAQTel. 086 135 8722 or +27 11 978 1000, www.flysaa.
com. British AirwaysQTel. +27 11 441 8600, www.
britishairways.com. Fastjet (budget)QTel. +27 11 289
8090, www.fastjet.com. Kulula Air (budget)QTel. 0861 585
852, +27 11 921 0570, www.kulula.com. Mango (budget)
QTel. 0861 001 234 or +27 11 086 6100, www.flymango.
com. Safair (budget)QTel. +27 11 928 0000, www.safair.
co.za. Fly Africa (budget)QTel. +27 11 289 8101, flyafrica.
com. Travelstart is a helpful online travel agency offering
price comparison on flight bookings for all major airlines and
budget carriers with destinations in South Africa.Qwww.
travelstart.co.za.
GETTING AROUND
DRIVING IN JOBURG
Shop around for a rental car, book in advance and it wont
break the bank. Plan your route before you set off, and store
valuable items out of sight. South Africans drive on the lefthand side of the road and pass on the right. The maximum
speed is a nippy 60km/h on urban roads, 100km/h on national roads and 120km/h on highways. Petrol is widely
available. Joburgers like to drive fast, hog the middle lane
and dont seem to mind being passed on all sides. Avoid
driving behind minibus taxis in the left-hand lane because
they make unannounced and frequent stops. Traffic lights
often dont work; when this happens, treat the crossing as
a four-way stop. Jaywalking is popular, especially in the inner
city, and it is not uncommon to see someone trying to walk
across a freeway. A controversial new e-toll highway system
is in place (see www.nra.co.za for costs).
GAUTRAIN
Fast, clean and reliable, the shiny-gold Gautrain
(pronounced How-train) is Joburgs pride and joy. It
links central Johannesburg with the main business
districts of the north and beyond to Pretoria and
O.R.Tambo Airport. Prices vary according to distance
and time of day. Peak rates apply on weekdays between
06:0008:30 and 15:3018:00.
GAUTRAIN GOLD CARD To use the Gautrain you must
first buy a Gautrain Gold Card for R14, available at all
stations. Top up your card at the kiosks or self-service
machines. You need a minimum of R20 loaded to
use the card. The Gold Card can also be used on the
Gautrain buses and for the Gautrain car park. Note you
must make a return train journey to be eligible for the
special discounted parking rates.
GAUTRAIN ROUTES
The Gautrain has three
lines. The main line
starts at Johannesburg
Park Station and stops
at Rosebank, Sandton,
Marlboro,
Midrand,
Centurion, central Pretoria and Hatfield. The second line
travels from Sandton to O.R. Tambo International Airport via Marlboro. The third line is a commuter service
between Sandton and Rhodesfield via Marlboro. Trains
run daily from 05:3020:30 at intervals of 1230 minutes. On weekdays the first train leaves from Sandton
to the airport at 04:50 and the last train departs from
the airport at 21:04.
CAR RENTAL
Car rental companies are based at both airports, and most
have drop-off points in Rosebank and Sandton near the
Gautrain stations (check when you make your booking). Reservations for Hertz, Europcar, Budget and Tempest Car Hire
can be made through Africarhire.QTel. +27 21 657 1000,
www.africarhire.com. Open 08:3017:00. Closed Sat, Sun.
Rent-A-Wreck specialises in cheaper car rentals, as long as
you dont mind what the car looks like.QF/G-3, 13 Siemert
Rd (cnr President St), Doornfontein, tel. +27 11 402 5150,
www.rentawreck.co.za. Open 08:0017:00, Sat 08:0011:00.
Closed Sun. The AA Travel Experience store provides touring
maps, travel insurance, accessories and cross-border documentation.QShop G02 Benmore Gardens, cnr Grayston Dr
and Benmore Rd, Sandton, tel. +27 11 884 4104.
GAUTRAIN BUSES Each Gautrain station is linked to a

series of Gautrain buses using the same card. If you use
the train within one hour of the bus, the bus fare is R6
(R1 off-peak), otherwise it costs R19 (R14 off-peak). On
the most popular routes buses leave every 1220mins,
otherwise buses leave every 2040mins. Buses generally run between 06:00 and 19:30 on weekdays only.
Bus route maps and timetables can be found at each
Gautrain station and online at www.gautrain.co.za.
Buses can also be tracked using the Gautrain app or the
Gautrain hotline on 0800 428 87246. Useful bus routes
SandtonFourways via Montecasino (also available
on weekends), SandtonRivonia, RosebankMelrose
Arch, RosebankHyde Park, Park StationCBD (via Main
Street Mining District and Carlton Centre).
BUSES
The Rea Vaya Bus Rapid Transport System (BRT) boasts
traffic-beating bus lanes and special enclosed bus stops with
raised platforms and security staff. Modelled on similar systems in Latin America, the Rea Vaya is part of the citys Corridors of Freedom project and is gradually being expanded,
with future routes planned to link the City Centre with Sandton Central and Alexandra township. Currently the Rea Vaya
runs between the City Centre and surrounds (including the

main university campuses) to destinations in Soweto. Single
journey tickets and smartcards (which can be loaded with
money for journeys), can usually be purchased inside the
bus stops. Buses arrive every 10-20 minutes and generally
run between 06:0018:30.Qwww.reavaya.org.za.
Useful routes The circular City Centre C3 route passes
17
Braamfontein to
City Centre
City Centre
Dunkeld to Rosebank,
City Centre to Rivonia,
Illovo to Rosebank
MINIBUS TAXI HAND SIGNALS
Images by Susan Woolf
many major tourist sights as well as Park Station. The C5

and T3 (westbound) from Park Station stop in Milpark near
44 Stanley (see p. 56).
The Metrobus is the creaking old workhorse of the citys
transport system, ferrying commuters from the suburbs to
the City Centre and back. Only recommended for the most
adventurous travellers. Most buses terminate at Gandhi
Square in the City Centre (D-5, Main St, cnr Rissik St) where
there is an information office (in the Gandhi Mall) with
timetables and route information. The majority of buses
depart in the early morning (06:0009:30) and late afternoon (16:0017:30) rush hours. Fares start at R10 and are
paid directly to the driver on entering. Ring the bell for your
stop as drivers do not always stop unless asked.
Useful routes The double-decker #05C/D from Gandhi
Square to Rosebank and Sandton City takes a fascinating
detour through the colourful, crowded streets of the Fashion District and Hillbrow.
MINIBUS TAXIS
Minibus taxis appear to be a notorious menace but are a
highly efficient transport service for many daily commuters
PARK STATION
Park Station in the City Centre is Joburgs main transport hub. Built in the 1930s, today it is a mostly modern edifice and few remnants of its early architecture
remain. Minibus taxis, local rail and the Gautrain ferry
commuters through here every day, while long-distance bus and train companies also operate from the
station. An estimated one million people use the station every weekday, making it the busiest transport
hub in southern Africa.
NAVIGATING THE CITY

Street signs are not always visible, and many addresses
are given as the corner of two streets rather than as a
numbered single-street address. Always check whether
numbered street names, such as First or Second, are
streets or avenues. The names of major thoroughfares
are undergoing renaming and these changes often do
not keep pace with the erection of new street-name
signs or with GPS devices. See map on p. 64 for details.
as they cover almost all areas of the city. They stop abruptly,
do not have routes displayed, and can only be hailed by
displaying the appropriate hand signal. The main taxi ranks
are at Park Station and Metro Mall in Newtown. Be vigilant
at the ranks as they tend to be crowded, and avoid using
them at night or alone. Hand the exact fare to the driver
R8 to R10 for short journeys in coins or notes. You need
to call out in advance when you want to get off giving a
landmark is usually the easiest way. Although using them
can be intimidating at first, for adventurous travellers minibus taxis offer great insight into everyday South African life.
TAXIS
Taxis are expensive but essential if you plan a wild night
out. Except for outside hotels, there are very few places
where you can hail a taxi in the street. It is best to call and
book in advance. Many taxis do not use meters, so arrange
a price upfront. From Sandton City to Parkhurst or Greenside, expect to pay around R150. Smartphone users should
download the Uber app and first-timers should use our
discount code on p. 3.
The following taxi companies are generally reliable and
run on meters: Orange CabsQTel. 0861 700 222, www.
orangecab.co.za. Quick CabQTel. 0861 665 566, www.
myquickcab.co.za.
TUK-TUKS
While speeding around corners and chugging up steep hills
on the back of a glorified motorcycle may not suit everyone,
the enterprising fleets of tuk-tuks do make travelling
between suburbs easier. Based in Melville, e-TukTuk serves
Braamfontein, Fordsburg and the Parks, and also collects
passengers from Rosebank Gautrain station for a flat fee of
R50. Tuk-tuks must be booked in advance by phone.QTel.
+27 82 695 0211 or +27 82 515 6593, www.e-tuktuk.co.za.
Based outside the Sandton City Mall on West Street,
Shesha Tuks operates within a 5km radius, which can get
you to places like Parkhurst, Rosebank and Illovo. Rates start
at R25 for a 3km journey, although it is best to agree a price
beforehand.QTel. 0861 743 742, www.sheshatuks.co.za.
CYCLING AND WALKING
Joburg has a large and enthusiastic cycling community
and the city is working to develop new bike lanes, already
usable in Braamfontein, Auckland Park and Orlando West in
Soweto. Plans are in place to extend these to Park Station,
Ellis Park, Sandton and Alexandra. For the most up-todate information on cycle routes, go to www.juca.org.za.
Walking in the northern suburbs such as Sandton is not
particularly interesting, but City Centre and Braamfontein
are easily navigated on foot. Some of Joburgs prettier
neighbourhoods such as Melville or Parkhurst are also great
to explore at a slower pace. Choose to walk during the day
only and dont flash your valuables. Dont walk through the
central Joburg areas of Hillbrow, Berea, Joubert Park and
Yeoville without a local guide and dont cross the rail tracks
from City Centre to Braamfontein after dark. Watch out for
oblivious or aggressive drivers, potholes and uncovered
manholes, whether on foot or bike.
Where to stay
Braamfontein,
Johannesburg
Saxon Hotel & Spa
LUXURY HOTELS
Theres no shortage of great luxury-hotel options in
Joburg, and each offers something distinctive. Joburgs
newest hotel The Four Seasons The Westcliff is the
playground of both the visiting luxury set and locals from
the affluent surrounding suburbs. The hotels drop-deadgorgeous views of this most-treed city make it a summer
sundowners destination (67 Jan Smuts Ave, Westcliff, tel.
+27 11 481 6000, www. fourseasons.com/johannesburg.
117 rooms). The sumptuous Saxon Hotel, Villas and
Spa, where each room is fit for a king, is housed on the
property that was the former home of business magnate
Douw Steyn, and it was here that former president Nelson
Mandela retreated to complete his autobiography Long
Walk To Freedom (36 Saxon Rd, Sandhurst, tel. + 27 11 292
6000, www.saxon.co.za).
The ultra-stylish and intimate boutique hotel Athol
Place & Villas exudes warmth and comfort and its homely
feel will have you longing to stay on (90 Pretoria Ave, Sandton, tel. +27 11 783 7553, www.morukuru.com. 9 rooms).
With a sister property in Madikwe Game Reserve its a
seamless transition from Sandton to the great outdoors.
The business whos who favour the Hyatt Regency
where the cigar bar and lounge are popular locations for
high-powered meetings, plus youll be just steps away
from the buzzing Rosebank shopping and entertainment
complex and the Gautrain station (191 Oxford Rd, Rosebank, tel. +27 11 280 1234, www. johannesburg.regency.
hyatt.com. 224 rooms). The Radisson Blu Sandton offers state-of-the-art connectivity and a superb health
club (cnr Rivonia Rd and Daisy St, Sandton, tel. +27 11
245 8000, www.radissonblu.com/hotel-johannesburg.
290 rooms), while its not unusual to spot burly men ac-
4-star luxury guest house.

Joburgs no. 1 on TripAdvisor.
Close to Sandton & Rosebank.
www.lizatlancaster.co.za
+27 83 229 4223
Lamunu Hotel
90 De Korte Street, Braamfontein,
Johannesburg, 2017
+27 (0) 11 242 8600
reservations@lamunu.com
www.lamunu.com
19
Where to stay
suites at Ten Bompas and its restaurant, Winehouse, (see
p. 25) for superb bistro dining (10 Bompas Rd, Dunkeld,
tel. +27 11 325 2442, www.tenbompas.com. 10 suites).
The Peech is a chic modern hideaway set amid lush
greenery, belying its close proximity to buzzing shopping and entertainment hub Melrose Arch (61 North St,
Melrose, tel. +27 11 537 9797, www.thepeech.co.za. 16
rooms). The atmospheric Satyagraha House has a museum dedicated to Mahatma Gandhi, who lived here in
1907, and is a tasteful and precious bubble of tranquillity
(15 Pine Road Orchards, tel. +27 11 485 5928, www.satyagrahahouse.com. 7 rooms).
Satyagraha House, Orchards
MID-RANGE HOTELS
companying a king or global CEO in the stately foyer of

the Intercontinental JHB Sandton Towers (cnr 5th and
Maude Sts, Sandton, tel. +27 11 780 5624, www. intercontinental.com/johannesburg. 231 rooms).
You cant get any closer to the mega-malls than Sandtons newly renovated grande dame Sandton Sun (cnr
5th and Alice Sts, Sandton, tel. +27 11 780 5000, www.
tsogosunhotels.com/deluxe/sandton-sun. 334 rooms).
The flamboyant African Pride Melrose Arch with its
Davidoff Cool Water-scented lobby, table set for lunch in
the swimming pool and heaps of M&Ms candy is a treat
(1 Melrose Square, Melrose Arch, tel. +27 11 214 6666,
www.african pride hotels.com. 118 rooms), and the intimate and chic 54 on Bath with its boutique-hotel feel
and one-of-a-kind Champagne Bar offers five-star-plus
luxury (54 Bath Ave, Rosebank, tel. +27 11 344 8500,
www. tsogosunhotels.com/54-on-bath. 75 rooms).
Palazzo Montecasino is an opulent celebrity
hangout that has graced the list of World Luxury Hotel
award winners. Within walking distance of the casino
and multiple attractions such as a comedy club, cinema
and theatre, Palazzo also has exquisite gardens for escaping it all, plus a Clefs dOr concierge to ensure a most
memorable trip (Montecasino Blvd, Fourways, tel. +27 11
510 3000, www.tsogosunhotels.com/The-Palazzo. 246
rooms).
For a business hotel with a resort feel, the Protea Hotel

Balalaika Sandton is the suburbs oldest hotel, a popular
conference venue with lush gardens and two swimming
pools where European flight crews lap up the sunshine
(20 Maude St, Sandton, tel. +27 11 322 5000, www.proteahotels.com/balalaika. 330 rooms). The fashion pack
hang out in the Austin Powers-style lobby of the Crowne
Plaza The Rosebank (cnr Tyrwhitt and Sturdee Aves,
Rosebank, tel. +27 11 448 3600. www.therosebank.co.za.
318 rooms). At Protea Fire & Ice! in Melrose Arch youll
find a fresh and fun homage to Hollywood glamour and
a bar that serves unforgettable milkshakes (22 Whitely St,
Melrose Arch, +27 11 218 4000, www.proteahotels.com/
melrose. 197 rooms).
The Maslow Hotel is a slick social and business hotspot (146 Rivonia Rd, Sandton, tel. +27 10 226 4600, www.
suninternational.com). Protea Hotel Parktonian All Suite
with its 300 identical one-bedroom suites is a conference
destination in the city with a 360-degree skyline view
from the pool deck (C-2, 120 De Korte St, Braamfontein,
tel. +27 11 403 5740, www. proteahotels.com/parktonian.
300 suites). Thaba Eco Hotel, set in an exquisite nature
reserve, is an ideal getaway for mixing business with the
great outdoors (Impala Rd, Klipriviersberg Nature Reserve,
tel. +27 11 959 0777, www.thabahotel.co.za. 52 rooms). For
golfing fans you cant do better than The Fairway Hotel,
Spa & Golf Resort, a luxurious hotel 11km from Sandton
Central with an adjoining 18-hole golf course and a spacious spa (Setperk St, Randpark, Randburg, tel. +27 11 478
8000, www.thefairway.co.za).
BOUTIQUE HOTELS
The Residence caters to Champagne tastes. Choose between an individually designed suite with a private pool
or one with an outdoor bath in addition to the indoor one
(17 4th Ave, Houghton Estate, tel. +27 11 853 2480, www.
theresidence.co.za. 12 suites). Also in Houghton, Ten
Second Ave conjures the feel of a stately country home
with an emphasis on gracious living. Nestled into one of
Joburgs older suburbs, the magnificent gardens provide
a perfect urban refuge (10 2nd Ave, Houghton Estate, tel.
+27 11 853 2400 www.houghtonestate.com. 15 rooms).
International dignitaries rub shoulders with the
Champagne-and-polo set in a lush garden retreat at
Fairlawns Boutique Hotel & Spa (Alma Rd, Morningside Manor, tel. +27 11 804 2540, www.fairlawns.co.za.
40 suites.) Choose from an array of individually decorated
ON A (STYLISH) BUDGET
The vibrant Hotel Lamunu is favoured by the clever set
visiting the nearby universities for its lively atmosphere
and brilliant location from which to launch your city adventures (C-2, 90 De Korte St, Braamfontein, tel. +27 11
242 8600, www.lamunu.com. 60 rooms). The Bannister
Hotel is a hipster delight, also in Braamfontein (C-2/3,
9 De Beer St, Braamfontein, tel. +27 11 403 6888, www.
bannisterhotel.co.za. 31 rooms). The streets of Maboneng
beckon from Twelve Decades Johannesburg Art Hotel, where each room has been decorated by a different
artist(G-4, 286 Fox St, www.urbanhiphotels.com).
Where to stay
GUEST HOUSES AND B&BS
For garden retreats in the citys prettiest suburbs, bed and
breakfast or self-catering suites, privacy and personalised
service, Johannesburg Guesthouses offers an excellent range of affordable accommodation options in the
Rosebank area. See their booking website www.johannesburg-guesthouses.co.za. Owner Liz Delmont of Liz at
Lancaster is an art historian turned entrepreneur and a
Joburg maven and blogger with plenty of suggestions on
how to enjoy the city. She has also thought of everything
that will make your stay as comfortable as possible (79
Lancaster Ave, Craighall Park, tel. +27 83 229 4223, www.
lizatlancaster.co.za. 7 rooms).
In Melville traditional Afrikaans farmhouse Agterplaas
ticks authentic South African boxes (66 6th Ave, Melville,
tel. +27 11 726 8452. 14 rooms). Nearby is the tasteful
Lucky Bean Guesthouse, sister to the eponymous restaurant and live-music venue on the main strip, in a quiet
tree-lined street (129 1st Ave, Melville, tel. +27 82 902 4524,
www.luckybeanguesthouse.co.za. 9 rooms). For contemporary cool, seek out Afro-Asian Motel MiPiChi (35 4th
Ave, Melville, tel. +27 11 726 8844, www.motelmipichi.
co.za. 6 rooms).
BACKPACKER HOSTELS
If you are planning to overnight in Soweto, the celebrated
Lebos Soweto Backpackers has it all: comfy dorms,
single or double rooms, or just pitch your tent in the garden. There is also a welcoming courtyard with a fabulous
beach-style bar you can almost smell the rum and coconut oil and an open-air restaurant in the park that Lebo
and team long ago transformed from a dump site to a safe
and green haven for backpackers, and kids and neighbours from the surrounding community. Owner Lebo
Malepas bicycle or tuk-tuk tours of Soweto are a must-do.
See our interview with him on p. 48 (10823A Pooe St, cnr
Ramushu St, Orlando West, tel. +27 11 936 3444, www.
sowetobackpackers.com. 22 beds).
If its happening in Maboneng and it always is Curiocity Backpackers is a perfect location from which to
experience the johustle. At the helm is the charming Bheki
Dube, photographer and inner-city aficionado, who also
runs MainStreetWalks tour company. Curiocity hosts livemusic events, has a popular bar and braai stand and also
offers urban camping on the rooftops of the Maboneng
precinct (G-4, 302 Fox St, Maboneng, City Centre, tel. +27
11 614 0163, www. curiocitybackpackers.com. 54 beds).
BICYCLE TOURS, TUK-TUK TOURS,

BACKPACKERS & OUR NEW "OUTDOOR RESTAURANT"
tel: 011 936 3444 lebo@sowetobackpackers.com
www.sowetobackpackers.com www.sowetobicycletours.com
JOHANNESBURGS BEST GUESTHOUSES
ARE JUST A CLICK AWAY
www.johannesburg-guesthouses.co.za
A range of affordable accommodation
options centrally located in and around
the suburbs of Rosebank.
21
Where to eat
Bunny chow, Heather Mason
AN A-Z OF SA FOOD
Anna Trapido is the author
of Hunger For Freedom, The
Story of Food in the Life of
Nelson Mandela, and To the
Banqueting House: African
Cuisine, An Epic Journey. She
is also the former editor of
Rossouws by Diners Club
South African Restaurant
Guide 2015.
Forget your food allergies, aversions and intolerances and
open your palate to the tastes of South Africa. We called
in food expert Anna Trapido to make sure you know your
koeksister from your walkie talkies.
Amadombolo Zulu-style steamed dumpling breads served
as an accompaniment to stews.
Amagwinya Known as vetkoek in Afrikaans, these fried
dough balls are similar in size and shape to a doughnut. Often sold by street hawkers and roadside vendors.
Amasi isiXhosa and isiZulu term for the soured milk commonly used as a drink or accompaniment to maize porridge. See also ingqaka.
Biltong Coriander-marinated dried meat, Afrikaans in origin
but consumed widely by all South Africans.
Bobotie Beef or lamb mince bake, studded with dried apricots and topped with a savoury custard. Disputed origin
but probably a fusion of Cape Malay, Afrikaans and Middle
Eastern culinary genres.
Boerewors Literally farmers sausage in Afrikaans. Beef and
coriander sausage.
Boerekos Traditional Afrikaans food genre commonly associated with Gauteng and Free State food. Also known as
Transvaal Pioneer Cuisine.
Braai South African term for barbeque.

Bredie Slow-cooked, usually mutton-based stews seasoned
with cinnamon, cardamom, ginger and cloves. Commonly
cooked by people of both Afrikaans and Cape Malay origin.
Bunny chow Developed by South Africans of Indian origin.
Curry is placed inside a hollowed-out loaf of bread. There
are no rabbits involved. The term bunny is derived from the
Gujarati word bhania, meaning trader class.
Chakalaka Township vegetable and curry relish.
Denningvleis Cape Malay-style lamb, tamarind, onion and
clove mlange. Denning is the Javanese word for buffalo.
Drowors Literally dry sausage in Afrikaans. A snack food,
based on the traditional boerewors but usually made in a
thinner casing.
Gatsby Cape Town-style sandwich made from bread
stuffed with any combination of meat, melted cheese, fried
eggs, chips and pickled chillies. The name is thought to refer
to the flat cap worn by Robert Redford in the film of F. Scott
Fitzgeralds book, The Great Gatsby.
Hertzoggies Afrikaans-style apricot jam and coconuttopped biscuits named after former prime minister J.B.M.
Hertzog. The coconut resembles his white, wispy beard.
Ingqaka Xhosa-style amasi curds with the whey drained off.
Similar to ricotta in taste and texture.
Ingelegde vis Afrikaans term for Cape-style pickled fish
(marinated in onion, turmeric, masala and allspice).
Inhloko isiZulu term for a slow-braised cows head. Not to
be confused with a smiley.
Koeksister Afrikaner-style deep-fried, syrup-dipped plaited
dough, while koesister is a Cape Malay-style deep fried,
syrup-and-coconut-dipped oval piece of dough.
Kota Township sandwich made from a hollowed-out quarter bread loaf. Filled with a variety of meats, chips, cheeses
and pickles. Also known as spathlo and skumbani.
Krummelpap Afrikaans term for maize porridge with a
crumbly texture. Known in isiZulu as putu pap.
Where to eat
Malva pudding The name is derived from the Afrikaans
term malvalekker, meaning marshmallow. Syrup-drenched
marshmallow-textured baked pudding with apricot jam.
Mealie Afrikaans word for a corn cob or maize plant.
Morogo SeSotho term for a variety of wild leafy vegetables.
Mogudu SeSotho term for tripe. Commonly braised with
onion and salt.
Msoba isiZulu term for a South African indigenous fruit (Solanum nigrum) often used in syrups and jams. Referred to as
nastergal in Afrikaans.
Pap Refers to maize porridge of various sorts.
Potchestroom Soweto term for flat, biscuit-like baked treats
served at large gatherings, especially funerals. So called because the Chris Hani Baragwanath Hospital is on the Old
Potch Road in Soweto, and it is believed that those who
enter the hospital leave ready for their funeral biscuits.
Shisa nyama at Chaf Pozi, Soweto
WHERE TO FIND IT
BUNNIES Bunny chow originally comes from the
province of KwaZulu-Natal. At Lugz, chef Jacinta Naidu
makes marvellous lamb bunnies with tender meat
and plump, sauce-infused potato chunks, topped with
tangy carrot pickle. The Mother in Law masala-rich
gravy causes a sizzle of spices to clear up the sinuses.
QCanterbury Crossing, Bram Fischer Dr, Randburg,
tel. +27 11 781 6244, Open 09:0021:00.
CAPE MALAY Stylish suburban bistro D6 serves authentic Cape Creole flavours. Delicious denningvleis and bredie
are always the order of the day.QD6 Eatery, 42B Greenhill
Road, Emmarentia tel. +27 11 486 7226. Open 12:00
22:00, Sun 12:0015:30. Closed Mon.
KOTAS Kotas are available all over Soweto but they reach
their diet-crushing, heartburn-inducing zenith at Mandela Family Restaurant.Q8116 Vilakazi St, Orlando West,
Soweto, tel. +27 74 696 6102. Open 09:0018:00.
MEATS Caroline McCann is one of Joburgs few women
butchers. All her meat at Braeside Meat Market comes from
free range and/or organic sources. Her boerewors, biltong
and drowors have won more prizes than she has had hot
dinners.QCnr 4th and 10th Sts, Parkhurst, tel. +27 11
788 3613, www.braesidebutchery.co.za.
Piri-piri Mozambican and Angolan olive oil, garlic and

chilli marinade. Peri-peri is South African emulsified chilli
sauce.
Potjiekos Afrikaans term for stews made in a cast iron,
three-legged pot (known as a potjie) over an open fire.
Rooibos Cape indigenous shrub commonly brewed as a tea
but also used as a seasoning ingredient.
Roti Cape Malay-style flat bread similar to an Indian roti but
considerably lighter and flakier in texture.
Russian Cheap, fine-textured pork or beef-based sausage.
Originally sold on the gold mines to African migrant mineworkers by 19th-century Eastern European immigrants.
Salomi Cape Malay-style curry wrap made with a roti flat
bread.
Samp Dried, coarsely-broken corn. Known in Afrikaans as
stampmielies.
Shisa nyama (also spelt chisa nyama) Township braai/steak
house usually with a butchery attached. Customers choose
meat raw and sometimes cook it themselves.
Slap tjips Thick, fried potato chips sold as takeaways
wrapped in paper.
Smiley Roasted sheeps head. During roasting lips retract
exposing the animals teeth and making it appear to smile.
Snoek Large game fish, relative of the Barracuda. Common
in Cape cuisine. Often barbequed with apricot jam glaze.
Umngqusho Xhosa-style maize and bean mlange.
Walkie talkies Spiced, grilled chicken feet.
SKOP Umthandeni Zondos makeshift booth is directly
under the skywalk that joins the taxi rank to the Chris Hani
Baragwanath Hospital. He sells braised inhloko cows head
with a mug of umhuzi gravy. Head flesh is for everyone but
gravy sales are gender specific apparently these magic
meat juices reach parts of the male anatomy untouched
by Viagra.QZondos Unhloko, Chris Hani Baragwanath
Taxi Rank, Old Potch Rd, Soweto.
SHISA NYAMA At this friendly shisa nyama, customers are
an eclectic mix of business bigwigs and ad agency hipsters.
Service is friendly and fast. The quality of the steak is great
tender flesh, cooked to customer specification, gently
spiced. There are no seasonal changes and vegetarians will
be offered chicken. Food is complemented by a selection
of South African wines, a few Champagnes, numerous
high-end whiskies and plenty of beer.QImbizo Shisa Nyama (aka Busy Corner), cnr Main and 29 September Rds,
Extension 1, Ebony Park, Midrand, tel. +27 11 312 2468,
www.imbizoshisanyama.co.za.
TRIPE Not a single food stall but a series of stand-alone
pavement businesses clustered on a busy township corner where stallholders sell their own unique version of
hearty, onion-braised, salt-and-pepper-seasoned ox tripe.
Go all out and order a half portion of walkie talkies, too.
Served with pap and a side of spicy bean chakalaka.QFifteen, cnr 15th Ave and Ruth Rd, Alexandra.
Where to eat
Johannesburg offers everything from pavement dining to
five-star gourmet cuisine, and in our listings we have tried
to highlight a mix of both fine-dining experiences and offthe-beaten-track adventures. Generally Thursday to Saturday nights require bookings, and some restaurants close
on Mondays. Note that during the Christmas holidays (midDecember to early January) many places close or open less
frequently, so call in advance.
WESTCLIFF DELI
FINE DINING
BISTRO MICHEL
Run by Beaujolais-born restaurateur Michel Morand,
expect great food, wine and service at this extremely
popular French restaurant frequented by the citys
whos who, from tenderpreneurs to society belles. Here
youll find silken foie gras terrine with slivers of buttery
brioche toast, cassoulet and classic onion soup.QBlubird
Shopping Centre, cnr Atholl-Oaklands Rd and Fort St,
Birnam, tel. +27 11 440 0769, www.bistromichel.co.za.
Open for breakfast from 07:30, lunch from 12:00 and
dinner for 18:00. Sun lunch only. RRR. ULBW
FIVE HUNDRED
David Higgs is a much-awarded chef who serves
gloriously glamorous celebrations of the City of Gold.
Choose a four- or six-course set dinner. The bill of fare
changes regularly but combinations are always innovative,
unusual and delicious. The chef is inspired by the South
African flavour repertoire, which he often incorporates in
his dishes. Meals end with chocolate bonbons served on a
gold-dusted stencil of the Joburg skyline.QSaxon Hotel,
36 Saxon Rd, Sandhurst, tel. +27 11 292 6000, www.
saxon.co.za. Open 18:3024:00. Closed Sun, Mon. Set
menus from R1100. UL
WINEHOUSE
This award-winning boutique hotel restaurant was
inspired by a French painting of chanteuse Amy Winehouse. The decor is chic bistro, the setting warm, the
service personalised. Fans of fine dining will enjoy chef
Johannes de Bruijns unfussy approach. Winehouse is
also named for an extensive wine collection mostly
South African with some French labels that includes
limited auction editions. Oenophiles will delight in tasting rare blends (average price per bottle R500), or order
from a good selection by the glass. Winehouse also
hosts a monthly Sunday jazz lunch.QTen Bompas Hotel,
10 Bompas Rd, Dunkeld, tel. +27 11 325 2442, www.
tenbompas.com. Open for dinner from 18:30. Booking
recommended. Dinner set menu R280. ULW
While we visit many restaurants, we only write
about the ones we like. We do not charge for
listings. Generally our visits are unannounced. If
you dont find what youre looking for here, we
have plenty more recommendations online.
Visit www.johannesburg.inyourpocket.com.
NEW The Deli is the newest addition to the Four Seasons The Westcliff Hotel (see p. 19), joining the ultraelegant fine-dining hotspot View and the more laidback Flames grill restaurant with wrap-around views
of Joburgs most treed suburbs and a fine range of sundowner food and drink options. A stylish destination for
great coffee, a quick lunch or to pick up some pastries
or speciality food products that make great dinner gifts.
Remember, this is the Four Seasons so prepare to pay
extra for visiting one of the citys swankiest leisure destinations. Inside its dimly lit to showcase the extraordinary display of food. Take a seat at the counter with a
window view or, if the weather allows (mostly), there
is outdoor seating. Choose to have your salad mixed
freshly at the salad bar chock-full of fresh ingredients
or pick a tasty sandwich and the fresh juice of the
day. Pick up the days newspaper from the caf stand
at the door. Its a perfect place for a short escape from
the busyness of the city, or to impress a potential client
at a quick meeting. The Deli is also a short walk up the
stairs to the spa (see p. 59) and aprs-spa, a deck with
day beds for lounging, from which to enjoy cocktails or
light meals after your pampering treatment.Q67 Jan
Smuts Ave, Saxonwold, tel. +27 11 481 6190, www.
fourseasons.com. Open 06:3020:00. BL
SYMBOL KEY
T Child friendly
N Credit cards not accepted
U Facilities for the disabled
L Guarded parking
V Home delivery
E Live music
B Outdoor seating
S Takeaways
W Wi-fi
PRICE KEY
R = Less than R70
RR = R71R110
RRR = R111R160
RRRR = Take out a loan
* Based on average main course. No prices for cafs given.
25
Where to eat
STEAKHOUSES AND GRILLS
All over town grain-fed, lazy-aged prime cuts are the order of the day. For the best steaks in Sandton, try The
Bull Run (p. 30).
Von Pickartzs Belgian Waffles, 27 Boxes
MELVILLE
With not one chain store or franchise restaurant in
sight, Melville is Joburgs bohemian neighbourhood.
27 BOXES NEW
Melvilles newest landmark is 27 Boxes, a boutique
shopping centre and park built from shipping containers. Head here for a wide selection of indulgent sweet
treats such as Von Pickartzs Belgian Waffles, Camillas Macaroons and Pauls Homemade Ice-cream, as
well as lunches from container kitchens such as Curry
in a Box, Prawn Stars and Philly Cheesesteak.Q75
3rd Ave (parking entrance on 4th Ave), Melville, tel.
+27 11 712 0067, www.27Boxes.co.za. Open 09:00
17:00, Sun 10:0016:00. Closed Mon. BLS
GREAT EASTERN FOOD BAR
Delicate no-meat Asian dishes in a pared-down setting on a Melville rooftop.QBamboo, 53 Rustenburg
Rd, Melville, tel. +27 11 482 2910,
gefoodbar.
Open 12:0023:00, Sat 12:0023:00, Sun 12:00
16:00, Mon 06:0023:00. RR. LB
LUCKY BEAN NEW
A relaxed lounge bar and restaurant that hosts regular
dinner and concert nights. Contemporary South African bistro-style fare with the option of a wine-pairing
menu. The street terrace is the ideal place to enjoy a
cocktail.Q16 7th St, Melville, tel. +27 11 482 5572,
www.luckyb.co.za. Open 11:00 until last guest.
Closed Mon.
THE LEOPARD
The chefs personal style is unsurpassed. French and
Italian-inspired dishes sit side by side with fresh Asian
flavours and African culinary classics.Q63A 4th Ave,
Melville, tel. +27 11 482 9356, leopardfoodcompany.com. Open 17:0023:00, Fri, Sat 11:0023:00.
Closed Sun. RRR. Corkage R50R70. For pre-2006
wines, R25. B
CHE ARGENTINE GRILL NEW

Having started out with a Sunday market stall, making
delicious wood-fired steaks is now a full-time gig for the
Argentine team behind this atmospheric steakhouse.
The location is an old warehouse lit by candles and with
a shabby-chic dcor that mixes the urban and the rustic.
Steaks, silky dulce de leche dessert and an outstanding
homemade chorizo served with chimichurri sauce are the
highlights.QG-4, 303 Fox St, Maboneng, City Centre, tel.
+27 11 614 0264. Open 19:0023:00, Sat, Sun 12:00
23:00. Closed Mon, Tue. RRR.
THE GRILLHOUSE
This New York-style grillhouse is an institution. Serving excellent spice-crusted fillet and saucy ribs amid a constant
buzz accompanied by a selection of single malts and fabulous local wines, reservations for this celebrated spot are
essential. Enquire when booking about their hotel shuttle
service.QThe Firs, cnr Cradock and Biermann Aves,
Rosebank, tel. +27 11 880 3945, www.thegrillhouse.
co.za. Open 12:0014:30 and 18:3020:00, Sat 18:30
22:00, Sun 12:0015:00 and 18:3022:00. RRR. L
TURN N TENDER
A steakhouse popular for its consistently tasty basted steaks,
an excellent selection of sides and a respectable offering
for fish-eaters and vegetarians. Swift and friendly service
accompany sizzling platters and the atmosphere is casual.
Also in Parktown North and Thrupps Illovo Centre.QVillage
View, cnr Kloof and Van Buuren Rds, Bedfordview, tel.
+27 11 455 1000, www.turnntender.co.za. Open 11:30
22:00. RRR. Corkage R40. ULBS
SMOKEHOUSE AND GRILL
A barbecue menu with tasty burgers and fries, excellent
steaks, slow-smoked ribs and a legendary pulled-pork
sandwich. A lively atmosphere, upmarket prices and
easy access to all of Braamfonteins nightlife.Q73 Juta St,
Braamfontein, tel. +27 11 403 1395. Open 11:3021:30,
ThuSat 11:3022:30. Closed Sun. RRR. Corkage R30.
LEBW
MIDDLE EASTERN
BURHANS TURKISH KEBAB HOUSE NEW
Head off the beaten track to Mayfair. This canteen-style
restaurant has a wide Turkish menu and the halaal meats
are roasted over hot coals right there on the pavement. Order a grilled platter for two with fresh salads, dips and roti,
and therell be plenty left over to take home. Try to save
space for the Turkish desserts.Q79 Church St, Mayfair, tel.
+27 11 025 1123. Open Tue, Wed, Thu, Sun 08:4519:30,
Fri, Sat 08:4520:30. Closed Mon. RRR. S
Where to eat
EAT YOUR HEART OUT

The dcor of this intimate Jewish eatery is inspired and constantly evolving, and the tables along the pavement offer a
great view of Mabonengs cool streets and activity. Try the
latkes (potato rsti) with a range of toppings, or the excellent shawarma salad and a freshly pressed juice.QG-4, Cnr
Fox and Kruger Sts, Maboneng, City Centre, tel. +27 72
586 0600, www.eatyourheartout.co.za. Open 07:30
16:00. Sat, Sun 07:3018:00. Closed Mon. R. BSW
KING ARABIC SANDWICH NEW
This humble bakery and caf run by a Palestinian refugee
family has the best hummus and falafel. Choose from
delicious pies, shawarmas and stuffed pita breads (Arabic sandwiches), and look out for traditional specialities
such as the Arabic-style biryani, on Fridays and Saturdays.
QCnr Hanover St and 9th Ave, Mayfair, tel. +27 74 292
6191. Open TueFri 08:0020:00, Sat, Sun 08:0022:00.
Closed Mon. R. S
OTTOMAN PALACE
This grand Turkish restaurant is set within the impressive
Nizamiye Mosque Complex, making it doubly worth the
visit. Dine on platters of grilled meats, flatbreads and dips,
amid marble pillars and mosaic walls, or snack on Turkish
pizzas and pastries from the bakery.QNizamye Mosque,
cnr K101 and Le Roux Ave, Allandale, Midrand, tel. + 27
79 422 8168. Open 12:0021:00. Closed Mon. No alcohol is served. RRRRR. UL
INDIAN
While Indian Joburg is not restricted to Fordsburg (A-4/5),
this neighbourhood is its distinct pulse. Rich in history,
its a collision of spicy streets and enticing flavours. Most
restaurants are concentrated along Central Road, between
Albertina Sisulu Road and Bree Street (now Lilian Ngoyi
Street), particularly lively on Saturday nights when theres
a street market. Favourite stops include Dosa Hut (tel. +27
11 492 1456) for traditional filled dosas (a type of savoury
pancake), cheap and cheerful Al Makka (tel. +27 11 838
2545), and North Indian Coffee House for curries and
tandoori dishes (tel. +27 11 492 2089). Pop into the neighbouring Oriental Plaza shopping bazaar for curry spices
and tasty samoosas. Note that many places close for Friday
prayers between 12:30 and 14:00, and most restaurants do
not serve alcohol.
BUKHARA
A big-budget, upmarket restaurant with a welcoming
buzz. Bukhara will transport you to northern India for
delicious halaal curries and tandoor dishes the malai salmon is a must-try. The restaurant is tricky to find.
Follow the signs from Nelson Mandela Square to the
Michelangelo Hotel. The restaurant is next to the entrance to the hotel. Weekday lunchtimes are the busiest.
QNelson Mandela Square, cnr Maude and West Sts,
Sandton, tel. +27 11 883 5555, bukhara.com. Open for
lunch 12:0015:00, dinner 18:0023:00, Sun dinner
only 18:0022:00. RRRRRRR. L
27
Where to eat
IL GIARDINO DEGLI ULIVI
An olive tree-filled courtyard is the setting for this casual
yet elegant Italian bistro. The beautiful indoor dining area is
ideal if the weather takes a turn. The menu is pizzas, pastas
and salads, generously served. Service slows on the busiest
days. Live music Friday and Sunday.Q44 Stanley, cnr Stanley Ave and Owl St, Milpark, tel. +27 11 482 4978, www.
ilgiardino.co.za. Open 12:0023:00, Sun 11:3017:00.
Closed Mon. RRR. EB
Moyo, Zoo Lake
ASIAN
ORIENT NEW
Prepare to leave with your wallet feeling a lot lighter after
a winning sushi selection and a range of dim sum dishes.
The pork buns are a delight. The extensive menu includes
Thai curries, stir fries and Chinese-influenced dishes such
as spicy bang bang duck.QThe High Street, Melrose
Arch, tel. +27 11 684 1616, www.thai-africa.co.za/orient. Open 12:0022:00. RRRR. SBLW
PRON (PEOPLES REPUBLIC OF NOODLES) NEW
Come here for excellent northern Chinese comfort food
this means no deep-fried dishes, no rice and definitely
no sweet-and-sour sauces. The stars of the enticing little
menu are the hearty, subtly-flavoured bowls of thick, flat
handmade noodles that touch the taste buds in all sorts of
places. The dcor is fun, tongue-in-cheek Chinese kitsch,
and the atmosphere laid back.Q69 7th St, Linden, tel.
+27 11 782 1736. Open 12:0015:00 and 18:0022:00.
Closed Sun. RR. SBL
THE BLACKANESE SUSHI AND WINE BAR
Flavours from African and Japanese cuisine fuse at this
cute, if slightly grungy, sushi spot. Chopsticks decorate
the walls here, and lighting is provided by upturned soup
bowls. The enormous and delicious sushi platters are
made for sharing, and theres also an excellent fish braai
if raw fish isnt your thing. Outstanding service.QG-4, 20
Kruger St, Maboneng, City Centre, tel. +27 11 024 9455,
www.theblackanese.co.za. Open 10:0022:00, FriSun
09:0022:00. Closed Mon. R. Corkage R30. LBS
ITALIAN
CREMALAT
Cremalat houses an Italian restaurant (La Cucina @Cremalat), a cheese factory and an Italian deli set in a large,
Tuscan-style building in a nondescript office park. Browse
for cheeses, gourmet pasta and other Italian goodies, or
order a massive plate of pasta. Plan ahead as the restaurant
is often booked out.QGreenhills Industrial Estate, Sam
Green Rd, Tunney Ext 6, Edenvale, tel. +27 11 822 8320.
Open 08:00-16:00, Sat 08:00-14:00, closed Sun. RR.
STELLE
Inspired by northern Italian cuisine, chef Alda Porelli
and baker Tony Graziero serve traditional favourites and
regularly devise new dishes at this friendly restaurant.
Pastas are light and homemade (so may take longer than
expected), using seasonal ingredients.Q62 Tyrone Ave,
Parkview, tel. +27 11 646 6996, www.stellerestaurant.
co.za. Open 18:0022:30, Fri, Sat 12:3016:00, 18:00
22:30. Closed Sun, Mon. RR. Corkage R50. LB
FAMILY-FRIENDLY
DELTA CAF
Looking out over the lush Delta Park and with stables on
its doorstep, a jungle gym in the garden and a dedicated
kids menu, this rustic converted farm building is an ideal
hangout for families. The menu is simple with classic lunch
favourites such as salads, sandwiches and even boiled egg
and soldiers.Q20 Marlborough Rd (entrance via garden
centre), Craighall Park, tel. +27 79 482 5286. Open
08:3017:00. Closed Mon. RR. T6B
DE MOLEN BAKERY AND PANCAKE HOUSE
If you are headed to O.R. Tambo Airport, Edenvale is on
your route. An Ekurhuleni institution, this bakery and
pancake house was founded in 1963 by the Verhoogt
family, who are still in charge of creating legendary
Dutch confectionaries, pastries and breads. You cant
miss the place, which is adorned by a massive Dutch
windmill (molen in Dutch). The pancake house is upstairs try the bacon and Dutch apple pancake (best
topped with maple syrup).Q47 Van Riebeek Ave, Edenvale, tel. +27 11 453 2233, www.debackery.co.za.
Open 07:0017:00, Sat 07:0014:00, Sun 07:3013:00.
MOYO
Definitely in one of the citys most favourable locations,
Moyo Zoo Lake is an institution. With indoor and outdoor
seating on the lavishly decorated deck overlooking Zoo
Lake, this place is perfect for admiring a Joburg sunset.
The breakfast buffet is vast with many excellent choices,
and the new owners have made a great effort to retain
Moyos signature features: a family-friendly atmosphere,
entertainment for kids, face-painting and fun African
rituals. The deck lights up at night with live music and
a fine-dining menu. Also at Melrose Arch.QZoo Lake,
1 Prince of Wales Dr, Parkview, tel. +27 11 646 0058,
www.moyo.com. Open 08:0022:00, Fri, Sat 08:00
23:00. RRR. TULBEW
Where to eat
Krunch, Sandton City
THIRTY-THREE HIGH STREET NEW

Occupying a whole corner of historic Modderfonteins
quaint main street, Thirty-Three High Street and the adjoining craft brewery, Oakes Brewhouse, is set in the grounds of
a colonial-style country house. Sit under the dappled shade
of a huge old oak tree and tuck into Portuguese-inspired
food and wood-fired bubble-bread pizzas while the kids
tire themselves out on the playground.Q33 High St, Modderfontein, tel. +27 11 608 0733, www.33highstreet.
com. Open 11:3021:00, Sat 09:0021:00, Sun 09:00
17:00 (kitchen closes at 15:00). Closed Mon. TSLW
FAST FOOD
For an instantly forgettable meal on the go, Joburg has all the
major fast-food chains such as KFC and McDonalds. However, for a good-quality lunch at a super-reasonable price, we
recommend you opt for somewhere with local flavour.
BGR
Two Americans missed the taste of home so much that they
decided to open a burger joint. Unusually located in the
forecourt of a petrol station, the setting has the look of a
stripped-down canteen. Service is fast and friendly and the
fare is the very best American-style simple yet perfectly
executed burgers, shakes, fries and frozen custard.Q172 Jan
Smuts Ave (Caltex Forecourt), Rosebank, tel. +27 72 368
2695, www.eatBGR.com. Open 11:0020:30. R. SL
KRUNCH NEW
This innovative takeout spot tucked into Sandton Citys
food court is the most refreshing thing to happen to fast
food since the drive-through was invented. Youll know it
by the line of people waiting for freshly tossed salads, detox
health shots ginger, lemon and turmeric, Salute! and
gluten-free wraps. The salad menu is pure genius: you are
the designer and you have as many options to choose from
as you can think up. Select a base from the checklist, add a
house item, garnish, something crunchy, a superfood and
any one of 13 dressings. Portions are generous and best
value for money is the R49 salad, wrap or sandwich.QShop
FC06, Lower Level, Sandton City, tel. +27 11 784 3198,
www.krunch.co.za. Open 09:0020:00, Fri, Sat 09:00
21:00, Sun 10:0018:00.R. SL
WAM CAF
Entrance to the Wits Art Museum is free and the lunches
at WAM Caf, their busy canteen-style caf, are cheap and
delicious, making it a popular stop for local students and
academics. Choose from a regularly changing menu of hot
and cold dishes from as little as R30.QWits Art Museum,
cnr Bertha and Jorissen Sts, Braamfontein, tel. +27 11 717
1723, www.olivesandplates.co.za. Open 09:3016:30,
Sat 10:0014:00. Closed Sun. S
SHAP! BRAAI
If its not the enticing meaty smoke wafting from this little
shipping-container braai stand that draws you in, then the
great tunes on the ghetto blaster might do it. Seating is
on upcycled beer crates, and the shisa nyama-style food
is made to order. Also at Curiocity Backpackers on 302 Fox
Street, open 08:0020:00.QG-4, 20 Kruger St, cnr Fox
St, Maboneng, City Centre, tel. +27 72 810 3109. Open
10:0021:00. R. NUBS
OUT OF TOWN
DIE OU PASTORIE
About 20 minutes drive north of the Cradle of Humankind, this former vicarage is a cosy place for a homemade lunch in the shade of olive trees. The menu
offers perfectly polished comfort food. Look out for
their regular Sunday brunch concerts.QS56 (off R560),
Skeerpoort, tel. +27 12 207 1027, www.dieoupastorie.com. Open for breakfast and lunch WedSun,
dinner ThuSat. Closed Mon, Tue. RRR. Corkage R65.
TBLW
RISTORANTE RITROVO
Hearty, southern Italian culinary classics served up by
Giovanni Mazzone and his son, Fortunato. The restaurant
is divided into three, with an informal, family-friendly
salumeria, a romantically lit section, and a wine cellarbased private dining room much favoured by the rich
and famous. Fortunato doubles as sommelier and
resident operatic tenor, too. Giovanni doesnt sing but he
doesnt need to his celestial cassata Siciliana hits the
high notes.Q103 Club Ave, Waterkloof Heights Centre,
Pretoria, tel. +27 12 460 5173, www.ritrovo.co.za.
Open 11:3022:00, Sun 11:3014:00. Closed Mon.
RRR. TULEBW
29
Where to eat
SANDTON RESTAURANTS
Youll know Sandton by its gleaming towers and the profusion of construction cranes towering above the central
suburb as it remakes itself into a global business capital.
Once just rolling farmland, today brassy Sandton means
business, with major company headquarters, huge, glittering malls and top hotels. Sidestep the profusion of generic chain restaurants and try one of these spots.
11TH STREET, BENMORE
For a break from the glitz and shine of Africas richest
square mile, Benmores 11th Street is just a 20-minute
walk or a short tuk-tuk ride from Sandton City. Here
you can sample a world of tastes along a scruffy lowrise strip of independent restaurants. Take your pick
from Chinese restaurants, a Thai caf, sushi bars, Indian
restaurants and even a West African restaurant, as well
as fancy upmarket destinations like Thomas Maxwell
and Eatery JHB.
LOPULENCE NEW
The opulent gold and glitzy dcor is said to have been
inspired by Dubais plushest lounge-bars, while the
menu, created by five-star hotel veteran executive chef
Mark Hoberman, seeks to impress its well-heeled clientele with an exciting selection of contemporary tapas
that arrives plated like works of art the desserts in
particular are ingenious. By day this is a sophisticated
and discreet spot for an elegant business lunch, and
by night an exclusive lounge-bar with house DJs, cocktails and an excellent wine cellar.QLegacy Corner, 2
Maude St, Sandton, tel.+27 11 326 6984, www.opulence.co.za. Open 12:0024:00.
EATERY JHB
Not classical fine dining per se, but Eatery JHB offers a
rustic yet elegant dining experience. The menu is small
but seasonal with a French twist, and the food is impressively plated. Slick service and a stylishly minimalist
interior help this restaurant stand out as a sophisticated
and upmarket venue, despite the rather incongruous
side-street location.QCnr 11th St and Victoria Ave,
Parkmore, tel. +27 11 783 1570, www.eateryjhb.
co.za. Open for lunch MonFri 12:0015:00, for dinner
MonSat 18:0021:00. Closed Sun. RRR.
THE BULL RUN
This elegant, old-fashioned steakhouse part of The Protea Hotel Balalaika Sandton used to be a countryside
tea room back when Sandton was only rolling farmland.
Today it retains the atmosphere of a relaxed oasis in the
heart of Joburgs business district.Q20 Maude St, Sandton, tel. +27 11 884 1400, www.bullrun.co.za. Open
12:0022:30, Sat 17:0022:30. RRR. Corkage R50.
LBSW
LOpulence, Sandton
PORTUGUESE
1920 PORTUGUESE
This exceptional Madeiran restaurant hides inside an unremarkable strip mall. Authentic and family friendly, Portuguese knickknacks abound. The kitchen closes early, but
its worth the trip for delicious and saucy plates of spicy
peri-peri chicken, beef espetada, prawns and calamari.
QFerndale Village, cnr Main Ave and Oxford St, Randburg, tel. +27 11 326 3161. Open for lunch 12:0015:00
and dinner 17:0021:00 (kitchen closes at 20:30).
Closed Mon. RR. TL
PARREIRINHA
Named after the little grapevine inside the restaurant,
Parreirinha is a popular spot full of character and colour,
located in an old police station. Its worth travelling south
for a drawn-out meal at this unpretentious spot. The flavoursome speciality dishes such as the bacalhau (cod),
prawn cakes and delicious prawns have plenty of Mozambican influence (garlic and chilli).Q9 6th St (Augusta Rd),
La Rochelle, Rosettenville, tel. +27 11 435 3809. Open
12:0022:00. Closed Sun. Closed for holidays from 20.12
until 12.01.
TROYEVILLE HOTEL
Regulars love the unfussy Mozambican-influenced Portuguese cuisine at this authentically dated hotel in the edgy
neighbourhood of Troyeville. It also has a lot of cred with local political activists, artists and musicians, and hosts occasional book evenings. Guarded parking at the rear entrance.
QH-3, 1403 Albertina Sisulu Rd (cnr Dawe St), Troyeville,
tel. +27 11 402 7709, www.troyevillehotel.co.za. EB
VERDE MINHO
For close to 20 years this Portuguese restaurant has never
disappointed. Even with a recent change of owner and
an interior makeover that took away the de rigueur East
Rand dcor items circa 1980 the pottery Mexican banjo
player and some hand-painted knickknacks it still makes
some of the best beef espetada, chicken livers and periperi chicken around. Sports fans will be delighted by the
big screen and friendly owner who is prepared to switch
channels, even when Man City is playing.Q5 Bloem St,
Boksburg, tel. +27 11 917 2410.
Where to eat
BEST PIZZA IN JOBURG
Heather Mason is a freelance writer
and photographer who moved to
Joburg from Washington, DC in 2010.
She writes a blog, www.2summers.
net, about her experiences here and in
the rest of South Africa. Food is one of
her favourite blogging topics.
When I moved to Joburg five years ago I didnt hold out
much hope of finding great pizza. But as with most things
my expectations were exceeded. South African pizza has a
unique style: thin crust, abundant toppings and a distinctive, tongue-stinging chilli sauce on the side. Pizza restaurants are ubiquitous here but these recommendations
should suit most palates and personalities.
1. BEST NIGHT OUT: ANT CAF, MELVILLE
Joburgs quirkiest pizzeria is located in the equally offbeat
suburb of Melville. Founded two decades ago by artist
Ronnie van der Walt, the Ant is dimly-lit, cosy and smells
of woodsmoke. The pizza crust is impossibly thin and the
toppings are fresh and plentiful. The place is also a great
jumping-off point for a night out on Melvilles 7th Street.
Q11 7th St, Melville, tel. +27 76 476 5671. Open 12:00
24:00. RR. Corkage R45. UNBS
2. BEST TAKEAWAY: PICOLA, LINDEN
Hidden in a nondescript shopping centre on Lindens 4th
Avenue, this restaurants atmosphere is as unremarkable. The
pizza, however, is worth describing: perfectly seasoned with
a generous sprinkling of cheese. Best of all, Picolas kitchen
works with lightning speed, and takeaway pizzas can be
prepared in under 10 minutes perfect for nights when the
power goes out.QCnr 4th Ave and 8th St, Linden, tel. +27
11 782 9707. Open 11:0021:00. RR. SBL
3. BEST FOR FAMILIES: PICOLINOS, FOURWAYS
A sprawling indoor-outdoor restaurant at the back of the
Rustic Timber Garden Centre, Picolinos is designed for
families. There is plenty of play space as well as a bar and
restaurant with a log-cabin feel and a roaring fire in winter.
Pizzas are create-your-own: take an order form from the
server, check off the toppings you want (most toppings are
free), and get a freshly made pizza exactly as you like it.Q42
Witkoppen Rd, Fourways, tel. +27 11 467 0618, www.picolinos.co.za. Open 09:0023:00, Sun 09:0020:00. RR.
TBSW
4. MOST AUTHENTIC: GEMA, KENSINGTON
A genuine trattoria run by an Italian-speaking husband-andwife duo serving thin-crust pizzas, hearty pastas, meat dishes
and homemade ice cream. The pizza menu leaves out South
African toppings like avocado and peppadews, sticking to
traditional Italian ingredients like anchovies, prosciutto, and
parmigiano. Booking is essential at weekends.Q143 Queens
Rd, Kensington, tel. +27 11 622 9716. Open 12:0015:00
and 18:0022:00. Closed Mon. R. SB
Ant Caf, Melville
5. BEST CHAIN: PIZA E VINO

Piza e Vino stands out for its lively atmosphere and creative menu. Each outlet is unique, but cheeky pizza names
like Porky the Pig and Pavement Special can be found at all
locations. The tasty Zucco, topped with butternut, spinach,
chillies and feta, is delicious and affordable, and captures
South Africas penchant for locally inspired topping combinations.QCnr Lothbury Rd and Fawley Ave, Auckland
Park, tel. +27 11 482 3609, www.pizaevino.co.za. Open
12:0022:00. R. S
GREAT SHAKES
DOLL HOUSE Drive up and flash your lights to have
the waitrons serve you in your car at this old-school
roadhouse. These classic shakes are super-frothy and
super-cheap. The soda fountain menu includes regular and outstanding double-thick shakes in flavours
such as lime, banana, chocolate, vanilla and Horlicks.
Q377 Louis Botha Ave, Highlands North.
HUDSONS This Cape-Town
gourmet burger chain makes
arguably the best peanut butter shakes in town.QCnr 4th
Ave and 14th St, Parkhurst,
www.theburgerjoint.co.za.
THE MILKSHAKE BAR The ultimate milkshake bar with almost 50 different mouthwatering combinations to choose from, including
Rocky Road, Oreo and everyones favourite Ferrero
Rocher, as well as alcoholic shakes for the grown-ups.
Ditch the diet and order the large resistance is futile.
QProtea Fire and Ice Hotel Melrose Arch, www.proteahotels.com/fire-and-ice.
31
Where to eat
CAFS
Priest Espresso Bar, Parkwood
COFFEE
4TH AVENUE ROASTERS
A hip little spot on Parkhursts lively main street with
its boutiques and cafs. Join the neighbourhood
denizens who drop by with their pampered pooches
for an espresso.QShop 3, The Cobbles, cnr 4th
Ave and 11th St, Parkhurst, tel. +27 82 378 2109,
www.4thavenuecoffee.co.za. Open 07:0018:00,
Sat 08:0018:00, Sun 09:0017:00. 6UBS
BEAN THERE COFFEE
The original roaster of Certified Fairtrade coffee, Bean
There sources its single-origin unblended coffee from
Rwanda, Tanzania, Ethiopia and Kenya. The minimalist
dcor of the store is perfect for savouring the flavour.
Q44 Stanley, cnr Stanley Ave and Owl St, Milpark, tel.
+27 87 310 3100, www.beanthere.co.za. Open 07:00
16:00, Sat 09:0015:00, Sun 09:0012:00. SL
CRAFT COFFEE NEW
Perfectly situated in the heart of Newtown for exploring the neighbourhoods famous graffiti murals. Hulking roasters and bulging sacks of beans line the walls.
QB-4, 50 Gwigwi Mrwebi St, Newtown, tel. +27
11 492 0501, www.craftcoffee.co.za. Open 07:30
16:30. Closed Sat, Sun. SW
FATHER COFFEE
Braamfonteins blond-wood hole-in-the-wall temple
to aesthetics and font design. Bag the bench outside
with a great street view and buy a half-kilo of the best
to take home.QC-3, Shop 2, 73 Juta St, Braamfontein,
tel. +27 82 513 4258, www.fathercoffee.co.za. Open
08:0016:00, Sat 08:3016:30. Closed Sun. SBW
PRIEST ESPRESSO BAR
The perfect stop while exploring the neighbouring art galleries. Cool murals painted by artist Peter
Mammes, homemade Chilean churros and chilenitos
and the inimitable Vini, a fashion vlogger, behind the
impressive coffee machine are the many reasons to
drop by.Q142 Jan Smuts Ave, Parkwood, tel. +27 87
754 4032, www.priest.co.za. Open 07:0017:00, Sat
09:0013:00. Closed Sun, Mon. BSW
THE FAT ZEBRA NEW

The Fat Zebra is earning its stripes as a destination caf
in the homely neighbourhood of Linden. Real effort has
gone into creating a superb range of breakfast choices.
The Babalaas breakfast comes with a shot of Cream Soda
designed to cure even the weirdest of hangovers or create new reasons to feel unwell. Delicious salads, prego
rolls and crispy, thin-crust pizza from a wood-fired oven,
plus burgers, a meaty tapas menu and a decent drinks
selection make this an evening stopover, too.Q71 7th St,
cnr 3rd Ave, Linden, +27 82 469 5757, The Fat Zebra.
Corkage R50 for wine, R150 for Champagne. Open Tue,
Wed 07:3017:00, Thu, Fri 07:3022:00, Sat 08:00
22:00, Sun 09:0012:00. Closed Mon.
SALVATIONCAFE
Excellent menu options turn your morning meal into a
memorable experience with a choice of healthy, sweet
and savoury, plus breakfast burritos. This busy caf at 44
Stanley is surrounded by fashionable stores and tables
flow outdoors onto a covered veranda and into a picturesque courtyard perfect for relaxed family meals.Q44
Stanley Ave, Milpark, tel. +27 11 482 7795, www.salvationcafe.co.za. Open 08:0016:00 (kitchen closes at
15:00). Closed Mon. 6ULBS
TASHAS
This local franchise is renowned for its vast and excellent
menu of fresh food, exceptional salads, lunch and breakfast dishes served in generous portions. The baked goods
are delicious, the juices freshly squeezed, and each branch
has managed to replicate the originals (at Atholl Square,
Sandton) pedigree as a prime people-watching spot.
Also at Village View, Bedfordview.QMelrose Arch Piazza,
Melrose, tel. +27 11 684 1781, www.tashas.co.za. Open
06:0022:00, Sun, Mon 06:0021:00. RR. SBL
VOVO TELO
The trademark light and airy interiors at Vovo Telo are always warmed by the ever-present bakers pounding out
delicious artisanal breads and baked goods which are
a staple on the caf menu. Also at 4th Ave in Parkhurst,
The Factory on Grant in Norwood and 44 Stanley, Milpark.
QVillage View, cnr Kloof and Van Buuren Rds, Bedfordview, tel. +27 11 450 2569, www.vovotelo.co.za. Open
07:0017:00, Sun 07:0015:00.
WARM & GLAD
The tagline of this popular hangout is food, media, culture. With excellent coffee and a small but perfect menu
using, where possible, organic and locally sourced ingredients, this spot is a favourite of Joburgs creative set.
The music is loud vinyl, of course.Q357 Jan Smuts Ave
(cnr St Albans Rd), Craighall Park, tel. +27 11 781 0455,
www.warmandglad.com. Open 07:3016:30, ThuFri
07:3020:00, Sat 08:3015:00. Closed Sun. Kitchen
closes 30 mins before closing time. ULEBSW
Art Joburg
JOBURG ART FAIR 1113.09
The highlight of Joburgs annual art calendar, FNB
Joburg Art Fair attracts up to 10 000 people over one
weekend each year. Expect a major art and social event
showcasing work from South Africa and across the
continent. Youll find sculpture, painting, photography,
prints, multimedia installations and a number of special
projects from established and emerging galleries.
This years fair, presenting work from more than 30
galleries, includes a bumper lineup of special projects.
Featured artist is Candice Breitz, who is known for
her experimental multiscreen video installations using
conventions and figures from popular culture. Him +
Her, to be exhibited for the first time in South Africa,
puts forward a virtual encounter of an individual with a
crowd of his or her other selves, using existing footage
from Hollywood films to compose dense psychological
vignettes. Breitz, born in South Africa, currently resides
in Berlin where she is an academic.
Another special feature is a festival of short art films
by the International Short Film Festival Oberhausen, sponsored by Goethe-Institut. Oberhausen, founded in 1954, is a key platform for short films worldwide.
Expect a selection of radical works that investigate
current political issues shared across local and international contexts.
New on the programme is the Johannesburg Pavilion by the City of Joburg, showcasing work by artists
Michael MacGarry, Anthea Moys, Thenjiwe Niki Nkosi,
Arya Lalloo and Bettina Malcomess. And something
else to look forward to is the African Masters Exhibition, featuring work by the likes of South Africans
George Pemba and Dumile Feni, Ethiopian artist Gebre
Kirestose and Nigerias Benedict Enonwu.
From 8 September preview the fair on artsy.net,
the online global resource for discovering and collecting art. Download the app on your smartphone to find
visitor information, explore and inquire about artworks,
and learn about exhibiting galleries.
And if you miss the fair, do not despair as our Art
Joburg feature will point you in all the right directions
to find the gallery, art or artist you are looking for and
to discover what makes this city Art Joburg. Also see
www.artweek.co.za for information on Artweek Joburg,
which takes place from 513 September.
QFNB Joburg Art Fair 2015, 1113 September, Sandton Convention Centre, Maude St, Sandton Central,
www.fnbjoburgartfair.co.za. Fri 11:0020:00, Sat
10:0018:00, Sun 10:0017:00. Tickets R100R130.
In the Frame: Eme

Joburgs art calendar is one of the city most enlivening aspects, with weekly art openings, two major art fairs,
and a number of gallery neighbourhoods, including
Braamfontein, Maboneng and Parkwood (see Gallery
Row opposite), as well as a district of artists studios in
Newtown. Twenty years ago, the city emerged from relative apartheid isolation and is now grabbing headlines for
its flourishing art scene and rise to prominence of artists,
curators and gallerists. In 2014 the Wall Street Journal singled out Joburg as one the worlds four emerging art cities,
while more recently prominent arts publisher Phaidons Art
Cities of the Future selected the city as one of 12 that will
shake up the art world in the 21st century.
We asked some prominent art world figures to shed
light on Joburgs rising status as a cultural capital.
Joburg is a rare case of a city that was built on a mine. It
is not coastal, not situated on a waterway or mountainous,
and so people have discovered that when they need relief,
inspiration or enlightenment they can turn to art. The city
experiences phases of reinvention, bringing about opportunities for artists to contribute to the metamorphosis of
public space. Liza Essers, Goodman Gallery
One does not necessarily want to say that it is because
of the buying power in Johannesburg, but that definitely
forms part of the global picture. Think back to when Joburg
started as a mining city and the rush it created. That rush
is still evident, and artists thrive on it. Monna Mokoena,
Gallery MOMO
Since the 1950s, Joburg has nurtured and developed
Art Joburg
GALLERY ROW
erging Art Capital

cultural and community-based artist centres and, more
recently, Artists Proof Studios in Newtown and the Bag
Factory in Fordsburg. The Johannesburg Art Gallery
was the first South African institution to collect the work
of black artists. The development and rejuvenation of city
precincts have also contributed profoundly to its title of art
city. Ruarc Peffers, Strauss & Co. Art Auctioneers
The city has a vibrant energy that encourages individuals to express themselves through the visual and other
arts. As the major commercial city of Africa it has numerous galleries, art institutions and patrons. And, of course, it
has one of the worlds most famous artists as its permanent
resident: William Kentridge. David Krut, David Krut Projects
For me its about a new energy, a new movement and
a fresh outlook but at the same time not negating the past
but systematically and gradually unpacking it poignantly
and with present relevance, and with a concerted, focused
understanding of its rich and complex history. This renders
Joburg and its artists with an infinite and diverse palette
and archive to draw from and manifest the new. M.J.
Turpin, Director Kalashnikovv Gallery, kalashnikovv.co.za
The images above, apart from the beadwork, are limited-edition dinner plates produced as part of a collaboration between Goodman
Gallery artists and NGO Orange Babies South Africa to raise funds for
those infected with and affected by HIV/Aids. Leading contemporary
artists contributed their work to the project. The cost of a set of 24
plates is R20 000. Photo credits, top row from left: Sam Nhlengethwa,
beadwork Wits Art Museum, William Kentridge; bottom row: Mikhael
Subotzky, David Goldblatt, Brett Murray. See orangebabies.org.za
Joburgs Art Gallery Row can be found along a few

blocks of Jan Smuts Avenue, between Wells and Jellicoe Avenues, Parkwood. Start exploring at Circa Gallery and Everard Read (cnr Jellicoe Ave). Inside these
landmark buildings youll find temporary exhibitions
from established and emerging artists, and outside a
fascinating collection of sculptures. Further along Jan
Smuts Ave (cnr Chester Rd) is the prestigious Goodman Gallery, which promotes many A-list artists such
as multimedia wizard William Kentridge and photographer David Goldblatt. A few doors away, see local contemporary fine art at Lizamore & Associates (www.
lizamore.co.za), exquisite African crafts and ceramics
at Kim Sacks Gallery (www.kimsacksgallery.com),
and extraordinary coffee table art books at David Krut
Bookstore. Opposite is Chester Court with the quirky
Priest Coffee Bar smack dab between Res Gallery,
known for its provocative photography, David Krut
Projects, Gallery 2 (www.gallery2.co.za) for paintings
and prints and graffiti-plastered The Crows Nest a
barber, tattoo parlour and pop-up gallery. Park Caf is
a great place to end up for lunch (www.parkcafe.co.za).
A few blocks away is Gallery MOMO for contemporary
African art. Addresses on p. 36.
JAG CENTENARY
The
landmark
Joburg Art Gallery turns 100
this year, with
celebrations
kicking off on
10
November.
Established by
Florence Phillips in 1910, the wife of mining magnate Lionel after she sold a blue diamond that he
had given her, the building that houses the gallery
first opened in November 1915. It was designed by
prominent British colonial-era architect Edwin Lutyens to house an impressive foundation collection.
While it cannot claim the title as the first gallery or
museum in South Africa, or the first to exhibit work
by living artists, it was unique for bringing together
contemporary European art in a custom-designed
setting, in a colonial urban centre. A recent grant of
R42 million has restored JAG to its former glory, and it
is definitely worth a visit for its contemporary exhibitions and historical collection.QKing George St (E-3,
between Wolmarans and Noord Sts), Joubert Park.
Admission is free and secure parking is available.
See www.johannesburg.inyourpocket.com
for event updates.
35
Art Joburg
EXHIBITIONS
Joburg has a full art calendar, with exhibitions usually
opening on Thursday evenings, and walkabouts taking
place on Saturdays. For the latest, see www.johannesburg.
inyourpocket.com.
UNTIL 19.09 SATURDAY
HISTORY AFTER APARTHEID
Haroon Gunn-Salies interactive exhibition looks at contemporary South Africas transition from pariah apartheid state to a democratic country with a dark past full
of heroes and villains. In particular Gunn-Salies thoughtprovoking sculptures refer to current debates about the
countrys colonial heritage and the memorialisation of
iconic anti-apartheid activists.QGoodman Gallery.
UNTIL 20.09 SUNDAY
SCRAP, SKETCHES AND SELECTIONS
The Museum of African Design hosts temporary exhibitions that include Shaun Gaylards series of architectural
city guides featuring 96 carefully sketched reliefs of a
range of iconic buildings. Thabo Pitsos Scrap for Cash references mass consumer culture and consists of sculptures
and installations made from waste materials. From September 1320 there will also be a special exhibition celebrating 100 years of the iconic Coca-Cola bottle.QMOAD.
GALLERY ADDRESS BOOK

CIRCA GALLERY | EVERARD READQCnr Jan Smuts and
Jellicoe Aves, Rosebank, tel. +27 11 788 4805, www.
circagallery.co.za, www.everard-read.co.za. Open 09:00
18:00, Sat 09:0013:00. Closed Sun.
DAVID KRUT PROJECTS AND BOOKSTOREQ142 Jan
Smuts Ave, Parkwood, tel. +27 11 447 0627, www.davidkrut.com. Open 09:0017:00, Sat 09:0016:00. Closed
Mon, Sun.
GALLERY MOMOQ52 7th Ave, Parktown North, tel. +27
11 327 3247, www.gallerymomo.co.za. Open 09:00
18:00, Sat 09:0017:00. Closed Sun.
GOODMAN GALLERYQ163 Jan Smuts Ave, Parkwood,
tel. +27 11 788 1113, www.goodman-gallery.com, Open
09:3017:30, Sat 09:3016:00. Closed Sun, Mon.
MUSEUM OF AFRICAN DESIGN (MOAD)QG-4, 281
Commissioner St, Maboneng, City Centre, www.moadjhb.com. Open 11:0023:00, Wed 11:0017:00. Closed
Mon, Tue.
STEVENSON GALLERYQC-3, 62 Juta St, Braamfontein,
tel. +27 11 403 1055, www.stevenson.info. Open 09:00
17:00, Sat 10:0013:00. Closed Sun.
WITS ART MUSEUM (WAM)QB-2, Cnr Bertha and Jorissen Sts, tel. +27 11 717 1365, www.wits.ac.za/wam.
Open 10:0016:00. Closed Mon, Tue.
Haroon Gunn-Salie, Soft Vengeance, Goodman Gallery
UNTIL 11.10 SUNDAY

BEADWORK, ART AND THE BODY
A celebration of contemporary and traditional South African bead art.QWits Art Museum.
UNTIL 25.10 SUNDAY
FAKUGESI LAB DIGIAL ART FESTIVAL
The museum is transformed into an open lab for workshops
and installations by resident artists Rachel Ryans, Ling Tan,
Jepchumba and Nathan Gates.QWits Art Museum.
UNTIL 26.10 MONDAY
ALINKA ECHEVERRA: 1:1
British-Mexican artist Alinka Echeverras powerful photographs taken in Mexico, South Africa and South Sudan,
look at the relationships between knowledge, belief, identity and nationality.QJohannesburg Art Gallery.
UNTIL 03.10 SATURDAY
LIONEL SMIT: CLOSE | PERSPECTIVE
Best known for his monumentally-sized canvas portraits
and sculptures of the female form, in his latest multi-disciplinary exhibition Smit seeks to challenge the way we
perceive the everyday.QEverard Read Gallery.
OPENINGS
08.09 TUESDAY 12.10 MONDAY
KIMATHI DONKOR
Currently artist in residence at Gallery MOMO, Kimathi
Donkor is a British artist and community activist best
known for his large-scale figurative paintings, which reimagine historic and mythic encounters across Africa and
its global diasporas. Often overtly-political and referencing contemporary and historical injustices, Donkors work
provides an interesting perspective on the post-colonial
world.QGallery MOMO.
17.09 THURSDAY 23.10 FRIDAY
ANTON KANNEMEYER
No stranger to controversy, Kannemeyer, aka Joe Dog, is
best-known for his confrontational comics that explore
racial stereotypes, colonialism and white bigotry.QStevenson Gallery.
Art Joburg
Senzo Shabangu at David Krut Projects
26.09 SATURDAY 24.10 SATURDAY

YOUNG, GIFTED AND BLACK
A group exhibition curated by African-American artist
Hank Willis Thomas. Inspired by the iconic Nina Simone
song, the featured artists look at the similarities between
#BlackLivesMatter and the Civil Rights movement of Simones day.QGoodman Gallery.
1.10 THURSDAY 26.10 MONDAY
MARION BOEHM
Working in a variety of mediums including newspaper collage and shweshwe cloth, Boehms portraits pay tribute to
the hardworking women of Kliptown, Soweto.QIn Toto
Gallery, 64 St Andrews St, Birdhaven, tel.+27 11 447
6543, www.intotogallery.co.za. Open 09:00-17:00, Sat
09:00-13:00. Closed Sun.
SENZO SHABANGU
Senzo Shabangus colourful linocuts and monotypes
explore themes of urban living and human nature, and
are rooted in everyday life in Johannesburg.QDavid Krut
Projects.
20.10 TUESDAY 30.01 SATURDAY
ACTIVATE / CAPTIVATE
This exhibition illuminates how the museums extensive
permanent collection is used as an educational tool and
includes spectacular contemporary artworks.QWits Art
Museum. Closed 20.12-201513.01.2016.
ZANELE MUHOLI
Multi-award winning photographer and gay rights activist Zanele Muholis work focuses on the celebrations and
sorrows inherent in black African LGBT life.QStevenson
Gallery. Closed 19.12.20154.01.2016.
01.11 SUNDAY 31.12 THURSDAY
BRONZE, STEEL & STONE
A massive group exhibition featuring contemporary
works by a host of pre-eminent South African sculptors.QCirca Gallery and Everard Read Gallery. Closed
2526.12.2015 and 1.01.2016.
37
Nightlife
SAN BAR
The steady construction of new tower blocks in Sandtons
business district may mean the panoramic view is not as
impressive as it once was, but this is still Joburgs biggest
rooftop bar. The expansive deck is dotted with fire pits,
hanging chairs, sun loungers, trees and Sandtons business
elite and socialites.QSandton Sun Hotel, cnr Alice Ln and
5th St, Sandton, tel. +27 11 780 5000, www.sandtonsun.
com. Open 11:0000:00.
San Bar, Sandton
SUMMER BARS
For lazy afternoons in the sun, these are some of Joburgs
best rooftops, beer gardens, courtyards and beach bars.
THE BEACH
An artificial beach on an inner-city rooftop in Braamfontein.
Sticking with the beach theme, iced cocktails in jam jars are
de rigueur. Open every Saturday lunchtime for post-Neighbourgoods Market lounging; later in the afternoon the DJs
turn up the volume.QC-3, 68 Juta St, Braamfontein, tel.
+27 11 403 0413. Open Sat 12:0019:00. Cover charges
may apply.
CIELO NEW
A 30-minute drive east of Joburg, Cielo is located in
Benoni, one of the few places where you can view the
distinctive white peaks of the old mine dumps. It is a
classy beach bar with rows of sun loungers and cabanas,
a plunge pool, cocktails, house DJs and clean white sand
stretching right along the Benoni Lake. Its Mediterranean
menu makes it a great lunchtime venue.Q1 Country Ln,
Lakefield, Benoni, tel. +27 11 845 7070, cielorestaurant.co.za. Open 08:0023:00.
LIVING ROOM
A little garden in the sky, filled with exotic pot plants snaking
their way over eco-friendly furniture, this place gets packed
out quickly over weekends. But it is where youll want to be
to view yet another spectacular Joburg sunset.QG-4, 20
Kruger St, Maboneng, City Centre, tel. +27 61 402 2843,
livingroomjozi.co.za. Open ThuSat 15:0021:00, Sun
12:0020:00. MonWed by appointment only. Cover
charges may apply.
POOLSIDE
This hip little inner-city swimming pool is surrounded
by palm trees, sunloungers, and, if you look up, the
windows and stairwells of trendy loft apartments that
are the tell-tale signs of smart urban gentrification. DJs
spin tunes from the bar and the refreshing Italian aperol
spritz is the order of the day.QG-4, 281 Commissioner
St, Maboneng, City Centre, tel. +27 82 754 9745. Open
12:0022:00. Closed MonWed.
SIR JAMES VAN DER MERWE & MILK BAR NEW

This three-level warehouse in Kramervilles design district
(15 minutes drive north of Sandton), is akin to an explorers
treasure chest stuffed to the brim with exotic antiques
and reclaimed items from far-flung shores. On the first
floor is Sir James van der Merwe (open every Wed
16:0023:00), a craft beer bar with a great balcony view of
Sandtons skyline. In the courtyard below is Milk Bar, an
African retro cafbar decorated with old signage and African artworks, and shaded by thorn trees (open weekdays
06:3020:00, Wed until 23:00).Q6 Desmond St, Kramerville, tel. +27 72 607 4235, katyspalacebar.co.za.
STANLEY BEER YARD
While away a sunny Joburg afternoon with craft beers
and folk music in this relaxed beer garden. Located in 44
Stanley, a converted 1930s industrial complex full of pretty
olive-tree filled courtyards and design stores, it attracts a
young, stylish and friendly crowd.Q44 Stanley, cnr Owl
St and Stanley Ave, Milpark, tel. +27 11 482 5791. Open
15:0023:00, Fri 12:0023:00, Sat 11:3023:00, Sun
11:3017:00. Closed Mon.
SUMMER CLUBS
House music is the sound of this city and wherever you go
it is the distinct beats of South African house that fill the
dancefloor. Party under the stars at these places.
RANDLORDS
A famous party venue on top of one of Braamfonteins tallest skyscrapers. The views over the inner-city are magnificent and the house music is top class. Only open for special club nights.QB-2, 22nd floor, South Point Towers, 41
de Korte St, Braamfontein, tel. +27 11 403 1833, www.
randlords.co.za.
TABOO
Named for the famous Ibiza club, this exclusive venue with
ample open-air space attracts the young, rich and beautiful.Q24 Central, cnr Fredman Dr and Gwen Ln, Sandton,
tel. +27 11 783 2200, www.taboo.co.za. Open Fri, Sat
22:0004:00.
THE WARM UP JOZI
Once a month the Warm Up hosts a roof party in Maboneng
with some of Joburgs best house DJs on the decks.QG-4,
Citilec Rooftop, 246 Main St, Maboneng, thewarmupjozi.
co.za. Every first Sat of the month from 14:00.
Nightlife
LOpulence, Sandton
COCKTAILS
Joburg has it all, from hipster bars and dancing clubs, to

historic pubs and bar districts. The only tricky bit is that
nightlife areas are spread across the city, although this just
adds to the variety. Wherever you go, make sure that if you
are driving you stay sober or take a taxi. The legal drinking
age in South Africa is 18.
ANTI-EST
Sharp-looking joint in the heart of studenty Braamfontein
for fans of complex cocktails and craft beer. The menu (not
everything listed is always available) and vibe are upmarket and the weekend DJ sets loud. The terrace is an ideal
place for early-evening drinks.QCnr Juta and De Beer Sts,
Braamfontein, tel. +27 74 187 2421. Open 12:0002:00,
Sat 11:0002:00. Closed SunTue.
PUBS
THE BRAZEN HEAD SANDTON
Snug and cosy on the inside, nice and breezy on the outside with a wide open terrace stretching around the building. The look is old-fashioned Anglo/Irish boozer and the
atmosphere fairly accurately reflects the British pub tradition.QCnr Linden Rd and Anne Crescent, Strathavon,
Sandton, tel. +27 11 783 6122, www.brazenhead.co.za.
Open 08:0001:30. B
LOPULENCE NEW
By day this is a sophisticated and discreet spot for an elegant business lunch and by night an exclusive lounge-bar
in the heart of Sandton with top house DJs, cocktails and an
excellent wine cellar attracting the citys most glamorous
and good-looking night owls.QLegacy Corner, 2 Maude
St, Sandton, tel.+27 11 326 6984, www.opulence.co.za.
Open 12:0024:00.
GILES PUB AND RESTAURANT

The long bar at Giles always hums with all types of visitors,
from tipsy yuppies to wizened sports fans and those hungry locals enjoying the famous fish and chips. The building
itself has been well-preserved to give a sense of history and
the covered street terrace is an especially popular spot to
meet friends.Q9 Grafton Ave, Craighall Park, tel. +27 11
442 4056. Open 12:3023:00. BW
LENINS VODKA BAR

From its moodily lit interior and comfortable couches to
the contemporary food, friendly crowd and an exceptional
menu of reasonably-priced vodka cocktails this is a great
stop for warm-up drinks under the olive trees in the small
courtyard, and a popular after-hours hangout for Mabonengs young and creative residents.QG-4, 300 Commissioner St, Maboneng, City Centre, lenins.co.za. Open
WedSat 16:00late, Sun 12:00 until late.
THE GUILDHALL
Dating back to 1888, this is said to be the oldest pub in the
city. Admire the fascinating original interiors in the shady
downstairs bar before retreating to the breezy wrought
iron balcony up top for an afternoon drink with a view over
historic Beyers Naude Square.QD-4, Cnr Albertina Sisulu
Rd and Harrison St (Library Square Gardens), City Centre,
tel. +27 11 833 1770. Open 11:00 until last guest. B
NICHE LOUNGE
With a smart-casual dress code and strictly over-23s policy,
this cocktail lounge is firmly marketed at a sophisticated,
professional crowd. Dozens of microphones, repurposed to
become lights, dangle over the two square bars, hinting at
the owners DJ background. African house beats rule here.
QCnr Keyes and Tyrwhitt Aves, Rosebank, tel. +27 11 880
0033. Open 15:0002:00.Closed SunTue. B
JOLLY COOL
This no frills pub has been running a successful no-nonsense
formula of cold beer, sports and jukebox tunes for years. Favoured by a young studenty crowd the bar has pool tables
and a giant sports screen inside, plus streetside seating if you
need to escape the pervasive cigarette smoke and rowdy
sports fans.QCnr 4th Ave and 6th St, Parkhurst, tel. +27 11
327 5883. Open 12:0002:00, Mon 16:0002:00. B
THE ARTISAN
Slap bang in the centre of the Greenside party strip, The Artisan has replaced the notorious dance bar Gin with a minimalist hipster-haven. The cocktail menu is as complicated as
the drinks themselves, which take a while to arrive but are
generally worth the wait.Q12 Gleneagles Rd, Greenside,
tel. +27 11 027 3707, www.theartisan.joburg/wp/. Open
09:0023:00. Fri, Sat 08:3001:00. Sun 08:3021:00.
39
Nightlife
SPRING BUBBLES
Carrie Adams joined Norman
Goodfellows, one of Joburgs most
prominent stores, in 1997. She fell
in love with wine while in London
in the 1980s, and since then has
expanded her interest to the study
and marketing of all things found
behind a bar counter.
I only drink Champagne when
Im happy and when Im sad Madame Lilly Bollinger
Champagne! In victory one deserves it, in defeat one
needs it! Napoleon Bonaparte
There comes a time in every womans life when the only
thing that helps is a glass of champagne! Bette Davis
If you have ever experienced the delight of a million
tiny bubbles exploding across your palate you will
inevitably agree with these statements. A thousand
quotes about this exquisite libation, a myriad choices
of brand, only one small region of France that is allowed
to produce it, Champagne heralds spring, launches
ships, lauds winners, lays great statesmen and women
to rest, pops corks on every type of celebration imaginable you simply have to love it!
The house of Laurent-Perrier has made its way
back to the shores of South Africa. Located in Tours-surMarne in Champagne, it is one of the most successful
family-owned Champagne houses in France. As with
many of these, Laurent-Perrier was owned and managed
by a woman, the indomitable Marie-Louise Lanson de
Nonancourt. She had two sons, the eldest of which was
killed during the second world war and the business fell
to her younger son, Bernard, who upon his return from
the war in 1944 took over the reins of the LP brand under
the watchful eye of his mother. He ran the business until
2010 when he died at the age of 90. Under his leadership he grew the Laurent-Perrier brand to become the
third-largest seller of Champagne in the world by 2005.
I met him he was legendary and it is no wonder that
the brand still carries the stamp of excellence Le Grand
Bernard assured it. Laurent-Perrier was the first house to
produce ros bubbly and, to this day, is one of the finest
producers of this revered symbol of love and romance.
Laurent-Perrier makes Brut non Vintage, Vintage,
Demi-Sec, Ros, Grand Sicle, Cuve Alexandra and,
for the very, very select few, the Grand Sicle Les Reserves Cuve. Large bottles for extra special occasions
are available and can turn any ordinary party into a
complete bonanza and then magnum bottles of Ros,
Non-Vintage, and even the Grand Sicle, which are
packaged in the sexiest cages, tins and boxes youve
ever seen. Perfect for gifting, even better for drinking. I,
for one, am going to welcome spring with an array of
Laurent-Perriers best!
QNorman Goodfellows, 192 Oxford Rd, Illovo, tel.
+27 11 788 4814, www.ngf.co.za.
Hells Kitchen, Melville
LATE-NIGHT BARS
Braamfontein and Melville are Johannesburgs late-night
haunts and ideal places to go bar crawling. In Melville the
action dies down at 2am while in Braamfontein you can
party until the sun rises.
KITCHENERS
Joburgs cool kids and creatives cram into this former colonial hotel for late night DJ parties. Fortunately even the
most serious hipsters cant turn the welcoming atmosphere
into something more pretentious, making it a popular spot
with all kinds of locals. Cover charges may apply after 21:00
Friday and Saturday. Next door is The Great Dane, another
late-night bar that attracts a similar crowd.QC-3 Cnr Juta
and De Beer Sts, Braamfontein, tel. +27 11 403 0166.
Open MonWed 10:0021:00, Thu 10:0002:00, FriSat
10:00-04:00, Sun 10:0021:00. B
JOANNA MELT BAR
A massive bar counter dominates the space at vintage-chic
Joanna Melt, making ordering a drink or flirting with the
bar staff considerably easier. The crowd is a diverse mix of
tipsy students and more mature Melville residents and the
music comes straight from the jukebox.Q7 7th St, Melville,
tel. +27 72 733 5966, Open 12:00late. Closed Mon. B
SIX COCKTAIL BAR
Not the place to knock back dubious shooters until the staff
have to scrape you off the floor, instead the welcoming and
smartly dressed crowd can be found sipping on cocktails
and enjoying the danceable RnB and hip hop at this longstanding Melville bar.QCnr 7th St and 3rd Ave, Melville,
tel. +27 11 482 8306. Open 12:0002:00.
HELLS KITCHEN NEW
An American-styled whisky bar attached to a barbershop.
Hells Kitchens heroes are the bad boys of rock n roll such
as Iggy Pop, and its different rooms are plastered with old
rock portraits and racy neon signs. Easily the biggest bar
on the street theres plenty of space to get rowdy in.Q4
7th St, Melville, tel. +27 79 980 9591, www.hellskitchen.co.za. Open 12:0002:00. Sun 12:0021:00. Closed
Mon. BW
Nightlife
CRAFT BEER
South Africans love their craft beer and Joburg is at
the centre of a craft beer explosion. Where just a few
years ago most beer drinkers satisfied themselves with
generic global brands, nowadays anyone not drinking
wine at the bar will probably be clutching a microbrew
in a designer bottle. Cool weekend markets such as
Neighbourgoods in Braamfontein (Saturdays) and
Market On Main in Maboneng (Sundays) are ideal
places to sample the latest beers (see p. 57).
CHALKBOARD CAF
Who needs dcor when the walls are lined top to
bottom with blackboards and even the tables can be
scribbled on with chalk? A great little spot for drinks
before or after a film or gig at the independent cinema
The Bioscope next door and therefore a favourite with
the areas intellectual types. Great craft beer selection,
decent coffee and excellent pizzas.QG-4, 286 Fox St,
Maboneng. City Centre, tel. +27 039 7306, www.
chalkboardcafe.co.za. Open 08:3023:00. B
THE GRIFFIN
Inspired by the British fashion for gastropubs, the Griffin
deals in craft beers and posh pub food set against fancylooking wallpaper. Friendly and attentive staff, and music
you can actually talk over provide even more reason to
stay late for the young professionals who flock here.Q1
Corlett Dr (Illovo Junction, cnr Oxford Rd), Illovo, tel.
+27 11 447 9842, www.thegriffin.co.za. Open 12:00
23:00, Sun 12:0016:30, Mon 17:0023:00. BW
FOUNDRY
Part bistro, part craft bar, Foundry has a delicious upmarket food menu and excellent craft beer selection. At
night the crowds quaffing drinks at the busy bar area can
be distracting if you only want dinner, but if your want is
for a humming place to enjoy cocktails and beers with
the after work crowd, this is it.Q21 3rd Ave, Parktown
North, tel. +27 11 447 5828, www.foundrycafe.co.za.
Open 11:0023:00, Sun 11:0017:00. B
THE TAPHOUSE
This tiny pub is the latest addition to Parkhursts busy 4th
Avenue. Friendly staff and a little bar counter that opens
straight onto the street make this an inviting, relaxed
hangout, perfect for enjoying a crisp beer and some
classic pub fare on a sunny afternoon.QCnr 4th Ave and
6th St, tel. +27 11 026 8968, www.thetaphouse.co.za.
Open 14:0023:00, Thu 14:0001:00, Fri 12:0001:00,
Sat 11:0001:00, Sun 11:0021:00. Closed Mon. B
Johannesburg In Your Pocket encourages

responsible drinking. Turn to page 3 and use
our discount code on your first Uber ride.
Chalkboard Caf at The Bioscope, Maboneng
LIVE MUSIC VENUES

Choose from little neighbourhood bars promoting unsigned
bands or sophisticated jazz clubs and historic concert halls.
AFRIKAN FREEDOM STATION
Slightly scruffy but atmospheric little jazz caf in the old
Sophiatown area, specialising in African jazz, poetry and
spoken word.Q41 5th Ave, Westdene, tel. +27 73 852
5149, www.afrikanfreedomstation.co.za.
BASSLINE
Long-standing concert venue hosting jazz nights every
Wednesday in the jazz room and larger concerts by wellknown South African bands in the main hall.QB-4, 10
Henry Nxumalo St, Newtown, tel. +27 11 838 9142,
bassline.co.za.
LUCKY BEAN
A reliably chilled bar and restaurant that hosts regular dinner and concert nights with some of the countrys best
jazz and folk musicians. The street terrace is a particularly
nice place to relax with a weekend sundowner.Q16 7th St,
Melville, tel. +27 11 482 5572, www.luckyb.co.za. Open
11:00 until last guest. Closed Mon.
THE ORBIT
All the biggest names in South African jazz can be found
here, both on stage and in the audience. Booking is recommended. Live music every night.QC-2, 81 De Korte St,
Braamfontein, tel. +27 11 339 6645, www.theorbit.co.za.
Closed Mon.
RADIUM BEER HALL
Opened in 1929 as a tea room and secret shebeen, nowadays the Radium is famous for its mouth-watering Portuguese food. A real diamond in the rough. The Radium Jazz
Band plays every Friday and guest bands every Saturday.
Bookings recommended.Q282 Louis Botha Ave, Orange
Grove, tel. +27 11 728 3866, www.theradium.co.za.
Sightseeing
4. CATCH A MOVIE AT THE BIOSCOPE
Joburgs independent arthouse cinema screens the latest
in indie, documentary and foreign films. Feast on delicious
pizzas and craft beers while you watch. With only 62 seats,
book ahead.QMain Street Life, tel. +27 11 039 7306,
www.thebioscope.co.za.
5. TAKE A STROLL WITH MAINSTREETWALKS
Based in the super-friendly backpackers Curiocity (302
Fox St, see p. 21), MainStreetWalks is an innovative tour
company offering history and street art walking tours, visits
to the traditional healers market, cycling tours, inner-city
picnics in the sky and a City Sightseeing bus link.QTel. +27
72 880 9583, www.mainstreetwalks.co.za.
MABONENG TOP 10
The creation of a single property-development company,
the inner-city district of Maboneng (also known as City
and Suburban) has been converted from rundown industrial warehouses and factories to a happening lifestyle
playground that now stretches across several regenerated
city blocks, characterised by exciting street art, hip cafs
and restaurants, galleries and vibrant street life. The district
is continually expanding and future development plans include a luxury apartment block designed by British starchitect David Adjaye, pedestrianised throughways and parks.
Here is our pick of 10 great Maboneng experiences.
1. JOIN THE ART PARTY AT MOAD
Quarterly exhibitions at the vast Museum of African Design (see p. 36) focus on contemporary African art, fashion
and culture. Open until late at weekends, the quirky March
Hare caf-bar downstairs serves expert cocktails with a
Joburg twist.Qwww.moadjhb.com. Open 10:0018:00,
Thu until 23:00. Closed Mon. Admission R20. Free for
children, students. Thu free admission for all visitors.
2. HANG OUT AT MARKET ON MAIN
The Sunday heartbeat of Maboneng. Food and design are
centre stage with a delicious selection of gourmet street
food, and craft beer from the on-site Smack! Republic microbrewery. Find vintage fashion and accessories upstairs,
plus salsa dancing on the rooftop.QArts on Main, www.
marketonmain.co.za. Open Sun 10:0015:00. Night market first Thu of the month 19:0023:00.
3. WATCH A PLAY AT POPART THEATRE
POPArt (People of Performing Art) specialises in hour-long
new works by emerging local writers. Come here for the
edgiest theatre productions in an intimate atmosphere. Have
a glass of wine to accompany the show and dont miss The
Box stand-up night every Sunday from 19:30.QMain Street
Life, tel. +27 83 245 1040, www.popartcentre.co.za.
6. SKATING, GIN TOURS AND FESTIVALS

Mabonengs more unusual attractions include a roller-skating rink and karaoke club Rolling Cherry (Aerial Empire,
www.rollingcherry.co.za), the Time Anchor Distillery
(Aerial Empire, www.timeanchor.co.za) and Common
Ground, an urban playground and park which is the location for the regular 7 Sounds music festival (www.sevensounds.co.za).
7. DRINK AND DANCE
For the best cocktails, look no further than Lenins Vodka
Bar in a sunny courtyard in the Maverick Corner building
(get a free vodka shot see p. 39). Other hotspots include
the Living Room rooftop and the Poolside bar (p. 38).
8. EAT AFRICAN FOOD
In and around Kruger Street, try the colourful House
of Baobab for West African cuisine, visit Vusi Kunenes
popular afro-sushi hotspot The Blackanese (see p. 28) or
for a simple streetside meal there is the Shap! Braai stand
(see p. 29). You can also find traditional Ethiopian cuisine at
Little Addis Caf in Main Street Life and at James XVI
in Maverick Corner.
9. MEET THE ARTISTS AT ARTS ON MAIN
Full of galleries and artist studios Arts On Main is Mabonengs
art hub and always worth a visit. Stop in at David Krut Projects and Bookstore to see the impressive print workshop,
and Goethe on Main for edgy exhibitions (see p. 12).
10. SHOP FOR AFRO-CHIC FASHION
Browse unique Afrocentric clothing boutiques. Leader of the
pack is Anisa Mpungwes Loin Cloth & Ashes (The Main
Change, tel. +27 72 143 2312, www.loinclothandashes.com)
whose statement dresses in vibrant African fabrics are a favourite of Solange Knowles. Also stop in at Stitch & Steel
(Maverick Corner) for beautiful wax-printed dresses.
AERIAL EMPIRE 7 Sivewright Ave ARTS ON MAIN 264
Fox St COMMON GROUND 2 Beacon Rd THE MAIN
CHANGE 20 Kruger St MAIN STREET LIFE 286 Fox St
MAVERICK CORNER Cnr Albrecht and Commissioner
Sts MOAD 281 Commissioner St.
43
Sightseeing
Freedom Park, Pretoria, SA Tourism
APARTHEID HISTORY
Johannesburg has been shaped by its apartheid history,
and Nelson Mandelas story is inextricably linked with this.
Follow this trail for insights into the complex and multilayered city that is Johannesburg today.
APARTHEID MUSEUM
Powerful displays and interactive elements bring to life the
horrors of apartheid, from its petty cruelties to state repression and violence, telling the story of the struggle for
democracy through everyday heroes and historical leaders. Plan for a minimum two-hour visit.QCnr Northern
Parkway and Gold Reef Rd, Ormonde (Gold Reef City),
tel. +27 11 309 4700, www.apartheidmuseum.org.
Open 09:0017:00. Admission R75, students, pensioners R60, under-18s R60 (not recommended for children
younger than 10). UK
CHANCELLOR HOUSE
This smart little open-air museum with window display
exhibits was once the offices of the first black law firm in
the city, Mandela and Tambo Attorneys, a thriving practice
from 1952 to 1956 that fought apartheids restrictions on
black life. Across from this is Shadow Boxing, Marco Cianfanellis sculpture of Mandela as a boxer.QC-5, Cnr Fox
and Gerard Sekoto Sts, Ferreirasdorp, City Centre.
NELSON MANDELA CENTRE OF MEMORY
Founded in 2004 as a publicly accessible archive, the centres permanent exhibition focuses on Mandelas life and
times and his dedication to social justice, complemented
by many personal artefacts.Q107 Central St, Houghton,
tel. +27 11 547 5600, www.nelsonmandela.org. Visits
by prior appointment only. Free entrance. U
HECTOR PIETERSON MEMORIAL AND MUSEUM
Unquestionably Sowetos best museum, exhibits focus
on the events surrounding the Soweto uprising of 1976
in which hundreds of schoolchildren were shot by the
apartheid police. A wealth of startling photography, personal testimonies, videos and informative texts are used
to great effect. No cameras allowed inside the museum.
Q8287 Khumalo St, Orlando West, Soweto, tel. +27 11
536 0611. Open 10:0017:00. Admission R30. U
SOPHIATOWN HERITAGE CENTRE
In 1955 the apartheid government razed the vibrant multiracial suburb of Sophiatown and forced its non-white
residents to move to distant townships. This house is one

of the few structures that survived and is now a museum
dedicated to the history of the forced removals and the
culture of old Sophiatown. Book in advance for a walking
tour.Q73 Toby St, Cnr Edward Rd, Sophiatown, tel. +27
11 673 1271 or +27 83 550 7130, www.sophiatown.net.
Open 10:0014:00, Sat 09:0013:00, also by appointment.
Closed Fri, Sun. Entrance R35, walking tour R70.
LILIESLEAF
In the early 1960s this farm was the secret headquarters of
the resistance movement and it was here that Mandela and
his comrades formulated their plans for the armed struggle
against apartheid. The displays offer fascinating insights into
the amazing story of the Rivonia raid and trial. A new permanent exhibit tells the story of one of the liberation movement's most successful and audacious arms-smuggling
operations. Plan for a minimum two-hour visit.Q7 George
Ave, Rivonia, tel. +27 11 803 7882, www.liliesleaf.co.za.
Open 08:3016:00, Sat, Sun 09:0017:00. Admission R60,
children 817 years old R30, under 7, free. Guided tours
from R110. UKW
FREEDOM PARK
Further afield, this is an impressive memorial to South
Africas history and heritage, themed around humanity,
freedom and healing. Numerous thought-provoking memorials detail the many different struggles the country
faced on its path to democracy.QCnr Koch St and 7th
Ave, Salvokop, Pretoria, tel. +27 12 336 4000, www.
freedompark.co.za. Guided tours (R45) leave at 09:00,
12:00 and 15:00 and can last up to two hours. U
CONSTITUTION HILL
This complex includes The Old Fort, the Womens
Gaol, the Number 4 prison block and the Constitutional Court, revealing some of the darkest hours of
20th-century South Africa, while also showcasing
the optimistic future enshrined in the modern Court.
The exhibits bring to life the many stories of notable
and ordinary people who passed through this place.
Visitors can also attend court hearings. A wide range
of tours is available.QD-1/2, Cnr Joubert and Kotze Sts, Braamfontein, tel. +27 11 381 3100, www.
constitutionhill.org.za. Open 09:0016:00, Sat
10:0014:00. Closed Sun. UK
Sightseeing
TOURS
ALEXANDRA BICYCLE TOURS
An area just shy of 7km square but with an estimated
population of 180 000 Alexandra township (just across
the highway from Sandton) assaults the senses. Nelson
Mandela lived here in the early 1950s describing it as
exhilarating and precarious, a description that is still
apt today. Jeff Mulaudzi, community leader and cycling fan leads two- or four-hour cycling tours taking
in Alexs unique history and culture.QTel. +27 71 279
3654, AlexandraBicycleTour. Tours leave from the
Marlboro Gautrain station.
CITY SIGHTSEEING BUS
Open-top hop-on hop-off bus with 11 stops in the City
Centre, as well as the Apartheid Museum. Also links to a
daily Soweto minibus tour and a walking tour of Maboneng with MainStreetWalks. A great way to travel with
family.QTel. 0861 733 287, ww.citysightseeing.co.za/
joburg. Bus leaves from Park Station every 3040
mins. Last bus 15:40.
DLALA NJE
Walking tours around the tough inner-city neighbourhoods of Hillbrow (Saturday) and Yeoville (Sundays),
including a visit to the 52nd floor of the Ponte building
for awe-inspiring views of the city. The Yeoville tour includes drinks and food at local African restaurants and a
chance to sample Cameroonian and Congolese cuisine.
QTel. +27 72 397 2269, www.dlalanje.org.
JOHANNESBURG HERITAGE FOUNDATION
A diverse range of weekend walking and bus tours focused on the citys history and architecture led by heritage specialists. Tours take place at weekends according
to a quarterly schedule found online.QTel. +27 11 482
3349, www.joburgheritage.co.za. Bookings can be
made MonFri 09:0013:00.
PAST EXPERIENCES
Joburgs Original Walking Tour Company offers a range
of well-researched offbeat tours that take in the inner
city, its communities, buildings, history, art and incredible graffiti, as well as tailormade shopping tours of the
city (see p. 53).QTel. +27 11 678 3905, www.pastexperiences.co.za. Check online for the weekend budget
tours schedule.
MUSEUMS
Three very different museums offer unique perspectives
on Johannesburg and South Africas complex and multilayered history. For a full guide to all Joburgs museums,
visit www.johannesburg.inyourpocket.com.
DITSONG MUSEUM OF MILITARY HISTORY
Two historic Bellman Hangars house a variety of thematic
displays that cover key events, including the Anglo-Zulu
War, the Anglo-Boer War, South Africas role in the first and
second world wars and resistance movements that fought
against apartheid, such as Umkhonto we Sizwe (also known
as MK, the armed wing of the African National Congress).
An impressive range of military vehicles that you are able
to climb into makes this an even more interactive experience.Q20 Erlswold Way, Saxonwold, tel. +27 11 646 5513,
www.ditsong.org.za. Open 09:0016:30. Closed 25.12.
Tickets R25, senior citizens and children R15.
ELLIS PARK RUGBY MUSEUM
In 1995 Nelson Mandela took to the pitch here wearing a
Springboks jersey to present the Rugby World Cup trophy
in what was a key symbolic moment of post-apartheid
reconciliation, made famous in the film Invictus. There is
a charming museum (open weekdays 10:0015:00, entrance via main gate) containing the biggest collection
of Springboks memorabilia run by collector James Dalton senior (Dalton junior played for the Springboks) who
also organises behind-the-scenes tours of the stadium.
In 2014 the stadium was renamed Emirates Airlines Park,
although most South Africans still refer to it as Ellis Park.
Call ahead to book.Q44 Staib St, Doornfontein, tel. +27
11 402 2960 ext. 211, www.ellispark.co.za.
ORIGINS CENTRE
The excellent Origins Centre explores and celebrates the
history of modern humans, tracing the emergence of humanity along an 80 000-year path to its African source.
The exhibits include an extensive collection of rock art
and paleoanthropological, archaeological and genetic
materials including ancient tools, and artefacts of spiritual significance to early humans and there is also a focus
on fascinating San culture and rituals.QB-2, Cnr Yale Rd
and Enoch Sontonga Ave, Wits University campus,
Braamfontein, tel. +27 11 717 4700, www.origins.org.
za. Open 10:0017:00. Admission R80, pensioners R65,
students R45, kids under 12 R40, teachers (with school
groups) R55.
45
Sightseeing: Soweto
Soweto Theatre
Located 30km south-west of Joburg City Centre, South

Africas most famous township is a top tourist attraction.
Soweto was always at the forefront of the struggle against
apartheid and there are several worthwhile sights that
showcase this history. Although many areas are still
desperately poor, like any large city there are also wealthier
neighbourhoods and a growing middle class. Whatever
you choose to see there, youll find that it is the people who
make your Soweto visit most memorable.
GETTING THERE
The seemingly endless identical streets and lack of
consistent signs and numbers can be bewildering and may
not be updated on your GPS (satnav), but if you do plan to
drive yourself, main tourist destinations are well signposted. The Rea Vaya bus is the easiest way to arrive on
public transport, with buses from central Johannesburg
stopping near many of the key sights (see www.reavaya.
org.za for route maps). For a whistle-stop two-hour tour
hop on the Sowetoo minibus which links to the City
Sightseeing Bus at Gold Reef City (see p. 45). Arrange in
advance to hop off for two hours at Vilakazi Street.
ESSENTIAL SIGHTSEEING
FNB STADIUM
Also known as Soccer City, this iconic 94000-seater venue
on the edge of Soweto, is Africas largest stadium. First
built in 1986, it was enlarged for the 2010 World Cup and
redesigned to resemble an African calabash (a gourd used
to carry water), with an orange, red and gold-coloured
exterior that blends with the nearby mine dumps. Tours
of the stadium, which include a visit to the changing
rooms and players tunnel, can be booked.QNasrec Rd
and Stadium Ave, Nasrec, tel. +27 11 247 5300, www.
stadiummanagement.co.za/fnb-stadium.
ORLANDO TOWERS AND CHAF POZI
The huge Orlando cooling towers, covered in bright
murals inspired by the townships rich cultural history, are
Sowetos most recognisable landmark. The surrounding
area has become a magnet for thrill-seekers here you
can bungee, swing or SCAD Fall from the top of the
Orlando Towers, while nearby at Soweto Outdoor
Adventures you can go rock climbing, quad biking

and paintballing. Then theres Chaf Pozi, a legendary
spot to eat, drink and socialise at the weekend. House
and kwaito DJs bring a chilled party vibe to the table
and the food is shisa nyama (informal barbecue) style. All
venues are at corner Kingsley Sithole and Nicholas Streets,
Orlando.QOrlando Towers, tel. +27 71 674 4343, www.
orlandotowers.co.za. Open FriSun 10:00 until sunset. Also
open during the week for corporate events or large groups
by prior arrangement. Soweto Outdoor Adventures, tel.
+27 72 692 8159, www.sowetooutdooradventures.co.za.
Chaf Pozi, tel. +27 11 463 8895, www.chafpozi.co.za. Open
Wed, Thu 11:0022:00, Fri 11:0024:00, Sat 10:0002:00,
Sun 10:0021:00. Closed Mon, Tue.
SOWETO THEATRE
The eye-catching building with its curved, colourfully tiled
facade, opened in 2012 as a space for Sowetos burgeoning
music and performing-arts scene. The theatre is mainly
used for concerts and plays produced by local writers. The
theatres open-air performance space is the venue for the
Soweto Art and Craft Fair, held on the first Saturday of
every month.QCnr Bolani and Bolani Links Rds, Jabulani,
tel. +27 11 930 7461, www.sowetotheatre.com.
VILAKAZI STREET
Probably the most famous street in all of Soweto, Vilakazi
Street in Orlando West lays claim to two Nobel prizewinning residents Nelson Mandela (who lived here with
his then wife Winnie in the late 1950s and early 1960s) and
Rev. Desmond Tutu who still divides his time between
his official Cape Town residence and his modest house
on Vilakazi. Top tourist attractions include the Nelson
Mandela House Museum (open 09:0016:45. Tickets
R60, citizens of AU countries R40, kids over six R20, kids
under 6 R5) and the outstanding Hector Pieterson
Memorial and Museum just around the corner that
details the events surrounding the Soweto riots of of 1976
(8287 Khumalo St, tel. +27 11 536 0611. Open 10:0017:00
Admission R30). Youll also find lots of African craft stalls
and places selling Mandela and Soweto T-shirts, as well
as a variety of restaurants and bars such as Sakhumzi
(traditional township cuisine), Nex Dor (a caf and
cocktail bar) and Restaurant Vilakazi (Mediterranean
and township cuisine).
OUTDOORS
Opened in the 1950s, Orlando West Swimming Pool
was the countrys first township pool and nowadays is a
busy summer hangout. There are three pools including a
kids pool and a full Olympic-sized swimming pool (6265
Mooki St, Orlando West. Open 11:0017:00). Thokoza
Park is one of Sowetos best-maintained green spaces with
lots of swings and slides for kids (1682 Ntuli St, Moroka). At
weekends locals flock here for family picnics. Nearby is the
famous Regina Mundi Church, which played a hugely
significant role in the struggle against apartheid and even
has the bullet holes to prove it (Mkize St, Rockville).
Sightseeing: Soweto
KLIPTOWN
Kliptown is one of Sowetos oldest neighbourhoods. Since
its earliest days it was a hub for hustlers and merchants, and
today you will still find the streets around its centre, Walter
Sisulu Square of Dedication, lined with traders and
busy stalls. Kliptown grew rapidly after the end of apartheid
as rural South Africans, previously denied the right to travel
freely, moved here in search of work and opportunities.
While much progress has been made to develop the area
surrounding Walter Sisulu Square, just across the railway
tracks informal settlements still battle for space and
resources.
HISTORY
Kliptown Museum
THE CONGRESS OF THE PEOPLE

On June 26, 1955, the 3 000-strong Congress of the
People, representing all South African racial and ethnic
groups, gathered in Kliptown to draw up the Freedom
Charter. Under the banner, The People Shall Govern!, it laid
out the principles for a country in which all South Africans,
regardless of colour, race, sex or belief, would be entitled
to equal rights. Congress delegates came from all walks of
life and included prominent religious leaders and famous
activists such as Nelson Mandela (who arrived disguised as
a milkman), as well as workers, pensioners and students.
On the second day of the congress The Freedom Charter
was adopted as the manifesto of the anti-apartheid movement, and shortly afterwards heavily armed police broke up
the meeting. After the gathering the apartheid government
banned the African National Congress, accusing them of
plotting to commit treason. More than 40 years later, when
apartheid was finally abolished, the Freedom Charter became the basis for the new Constitution of South Africa.
THE KLIPTOWN MUSEUM

The Kliptown Museum is housed in an old hardware
store on the edge of Walter Sisulu Square next to the
upmarket Soweto Hotel and Conference Centre.
Inside creative and informative displays bring the story of
the Freedom Charter and the Congress of the People to life.
Wire sculptures of leading activists and ordinary people
are annotated with personal testimonies that portray the
great excitement and emotions of the meeting. Life in
1950s South Africa is also brought vividly into perspective
with photographs and news clippings illustrating the
increasing levels of oppression that South Africans faced
on a daily basis. After visiting the museum, walk across
the square to see the tower-shaped monument to the
Freedom Charter and then enjoy a signature kliptini
cocktail and some tasty traditional township food at Jazz
Maniacs (tel. +27 11 527 7300) at the Soweto Hotel (cnr
Union Ave and Main Rd)QMain Rd, Soweto. Open 10:00
16:00. Closed Sat, Sun. Entrance free.
SOWETO MAP
47
Sightseeing: Soweto
15 MINS WITH LEBO MALEPA
TOWNSHIP TOURS
LEBOS SOWETO BICYCLE TOURS
Two-hour, half-day or full-day tours of Soweto by bike or
tuk-tuk taking in everything from struggle history, shebeens and church culture to street art and traditional African customs. Tours can be arranged to include a delicious
homemade lunch at Lebos chilled open-air restaurant.
There is also a special Kliptown cycling tour in partnership with the SKY (Soweto Kliptown Youth) organisation.
Q10823A Pooe St, Orlando West, Soweto, tel. +27 11
936 3444 or +27 87 353 4440, www.sowetobicycletours.com. Tours leave from Soweto Backpackers.
Lebo Malepa still lives on the same street where he grew

up in Orlando West, Soweto. If that street could it would
count itself lucky. From his great-grandparents home,
Malepa has grown Lebos Soweto Backpackers into
a top attraction, also offering bicycle and tuk-tuk tours, a
beach bar, outdoor restaurant and an annual camp fest
which last saw 100 tents pitched in the adjoining park.
I used to watch tourist buses arrive in Soweto,
noses pressed to the windows, and wonder what they
were looking at. That was 16 years ago and I didnt really know what a tourist was.
A student activist, his motto then, and now, was:
I want nothing to pass me by. He started selling local
crafts and postcards outside Hector Pieterson Memorial
but soon realised that to bring tourists off their buses
he must change the local mindset. Until then the only
white people we saw were policeman, soldiers or priests.
He started regular soccer tournaments to bring
locals and travellers together. Naturally it attracted
French, Scandinavian and Netherlands embassy staff,
nations well known for embracing travelling adventures. Together they cleared the dumpsite opposite the
house for a soccer pitch. Soon visitors were asking to
stay over. Next thing there were three people in my
bed, two on the floor. Everyone happy. Tour operators
started to show interest. If youd asked me before if I
could start a tourism business I would have said impossible without money.
Malepa, then without a car, would take visitors walking, or by train or taxi to see Soweto. Neighbours loaned
him bicycles for his first bike tour. In 2006 Lebos Bicycle
Tours officially launched with three bicycles. Now they
own 70 and still borrow from neighbours if necessary.
Today when I see those people they are all proud to
have helped. For Malepa Sowetos greatest attraction is
its people. You dont know Soweto until youve experienced its everyday life. This is a place of warmth, and for
us its not only about what visitors take away, but what
they leave behind in their encounters with Sowetans.
BAY OF GRACE TOURS

Avid conservationist Raymond Rampolokeng is Sowetos
first trained birding guide offering bird-watching tours in
the wetland areas of Soweto, including Orlando and Moroka Dam.QTel. +27 72 947 3311, www.bayofgracetours.
wozaonline.com.
TOUR 2.0
Community led tours in various townships, either by bus
or on foot. Destinations include Alexandra, Soweto, Mamelodi, Onverwacht and Refilwe (Cullinan) as well as innercity areas such as Yeoville and Fordsburg.QTel. +27 12 770
3608, www.tour2-0.com.
SOWETO OUTDOOR ADVENTURES
Innovative tours of Soweto by quad bike plus go-karting,
paintball and camping.QOrlando Towers, Dynamo St (cnr
Old Potch Rd), Orlando, Soweto, tel. +27 72 692 8159,
www.sowetooutdooradventures.co.za.
WHERE TO STAY
LEBOS SOWETO BACKPACKERS
Started by Lebo Malepa, this 22-bed backpackers hostel
has it all: comfy dorms, private rooms or space to pitch
your tent. Theres a kitchen for self-catering or enjoy a
home-cooked meal.Q10823A Pooe St, cnr Ramushu
St, Orlando West, tel. +27 11 936 3444, www.
sowetobackpackers.com.
SOWETO HOTEL & CONFERENCE CENTRE
This upmarket hotel looks out over Kliptowns historic
square and is themed around Sowetos history.QCnr
Union Ave and Main Rd, Walter Sisulu Square, Kliptown,
tel. +27 11 527 7300, www.sowetohotel.co.za.
Sightseeing: Ekurhuleni
SAA Airways Museum and Rand Airport, Mark Straw and Heather Mason
If Ekurhuleni had another name it would be Airport City

although Ekurhuleni is a lot prettier, meaning place of
peace in Tsonga, one of South Africas 11 official languages.
While O.R. Tambo International Airport in Kempton Park is
this citys centre, handling a staggering number of 17 million passengers a year, Ekurhuleni has other fascinating
airport-related sites that add to the areas status as Africas
first aerotropolis.
second level of the airport building, accessible to the public

via a stairway. When looked at from the runway area in front
of the building, Rand Airport painted in bold bright blue
and yellow mimics the shape of an airplane. The casual
restaurant on the premises, the Harvard Caf, is perfect for
soaking up the atmosphere of this small, historic airport.
QN3 Eastern Bypass, exit 108, Germiston, tel. +27 11
827 8884, www.randairport.co.za.
THE SOUTH AFRICAN AIRWAYS MUSEUM

Founded in 1986 by a group of aviation enthusiasts, this
museum pays a quirky tribute to the days when commercial aviation possessed a glamour long lost to globalisation
and budget airlines. The small building is crammed with
old flight manuals, model airplanes, historical photographs
and mannequins dressed smartly as SAA flight attendants
and crew from various periods in history. For enthusiasts
the biggest drawcard is the fleet of retired aircraft on a large
tarmac outside, including two Boeing 747s, a Douglas DC-4
109, and a de Havilland DH 104 Dove.
The headliner museum
aircraft is SAAs retired Boeing 747-244B, Lebombo,
the gargantuan passenger
jet that famously flew over
Ellis Park Stadium before
the 1995 Rugby World Cup
final. Lebombos passenger
section is open for museum visitors to explore. The cockpit
is unfortunately closed, but aviation enthusiasts can visit a
retired B747 flight simulator next to the plane. Test out the
Lebombo first-class seat that Nelson Mandela himself once
travelled in.QOld Transvaal Aviation Club building, Dakota Crescent, Rand Airport, Germiston, tel. +27 74 174
2747, saamuseum.co.za. Open Wed-Sun 09:0015:30,
MonTue by appointment only. Admission R30.
HARVARD CAF
Location, location, location. Thats what its all about at
the Harvard Caf, named after a second world war-era airplane called the North American Harvard Mk. IV. Harvard
Cafs outdoor tables sit right beside the tarmac, turning a
regular meal into an exciting family outing (there is a play
area for the kids). The menu offers the usual South African
pub fare pizza, burgers, ribs, and sandwiches as well
as a selection of sushi. The pizzas, with airplane-themed
names like The Cockpit and Mustang Sally, receive rave
reviews. But this isnt the type of place one visits especially for the food; it is best suited to a visit on a sunny
day so you can sit under an umbrella, beer or cocktail in
hand, nibbling snacks while watching the prop planes
and helicopters come and go.QRand Airport, tel. +27
11 827 4856, www.harvardcafe.co.za. Open MonSun
breakfast, lunch, and dinner.
RAND AIRPORT
Opened in 1931, Rand Airport is a fine example of the art
deco architecture that became so prevalent on the East
Rand in the 1930s, a side effect of immense prosperity generated from mining the rich seam of gold in this area. Once
Joburgs main commercial airport, Rand Airport now caters
mostly to charter flights and aviation schools and also
serves as an offbeat tourist destination, free to the public to
explore and enjoy. There is an informal viewing deck on the
HELICOPTER FLIPS AND SCENIC FLIGHTS

Fly over the city in a helicopter or two-seater airplane with
Classique Aviation based at Rand Airport. Classique manages a small fleet of aircraft, including a four-seater Robinson R44 helicopter, a DH82A Tiger Moth biplane, a Cessna
310, and a Pitts Special S2B aerobatic biplane.
Several booking options are available, including a
30-minute sunset helicopter flip over downtown Joburg
that flies passengers right over the citys tallest skyscrapers.
For the ultimate thrill look down into the dizzying cylindrical core of Ponte City, Africas tallest residential building.
Charter flights to Magaliesburg, Sun City, and other tourist destinations around Gauteng and North West province.
Helicopter picnics are also on offer. Fly to a scenic location
for a picnic and then return to the airport. Pick up some
cool aviation gear at the booking office.QMain Terminal,
Rand Airport, Germiston, +27 11 827 4856, www.classav.co.za Rates start at around R3000 for two people for
a 30-minute flight.
49
Sightseeing: Pretoria
Jacarandas in bloom, Mark Straw

Just 50km from frenetic Joburg, Pretoria, in Tshwane, is a
gentle antidote. Founded in 1855, theres plenty to see on
a day trip or weekend away. In spring, a sea of lilac blooms
engulfs the place, and Pretoria becomes known as Jacaranda City. Beat the traffic blues with a Gautrain trip to Centurion, Pretoria or Hatfield stations (see p. 17).
WHERE TO STAY
AFRICAN PRIDE IRENE COUNTRY LODGE
A luxury bolthole for a weekend getaway with an excellent spa
and adjoining golf course. Hotel rooms look onto rolling lawns,
a picturesque lake and bird sanctuary plus there are plenty of
neighbourhood attractions.QNellmapius Dr, Irene, tel. +27
12 667 6464, www.irenecountrylodge.co.za.
Tickets R85, kids R55). The 52-hectare Freedom Park is an

impressive memorial themed around humanity, freedom
and healing. A guided tour is highly recommended (Cnr
Koch St and 7th Ave, Salvokop, tel. +27 12 336 4000, www.
freedompark.co.za. Tours from R45). Designed by Sir Herbert Baker in 1910, the Union Buildings are the official
office of the president. You cannot enter, but can admire
the exterior, the imposing Nelson Mandela statue and fine
city vistas. Take the H3 Gautrain bus from Hatfield (Government Ave, Arcadia).
WHERE TO EAT AND SHOP
PROTEA HOTEL FIRE AND ICE! MENLYN NEW

Fire And Ice! has extended its hotel brand and reputation for
fun to the capital city. Graffiti-ed walls, a signature milkshake
bar, a selfie spot, DJ sessions, comedy nights and half-a-metre
long pizzas served at the pool deck are just some of the hotels
extraordinary features.Q213 Thys St, Summit Place Precinct,
Pretoria, tel. +27 12 471 8600, www.proteahotels.com.
Visit the 19th-century working Irene Dairy Farm for lunch

(Nellmapius Dr, Centurion, tel. +27 12 667 4822, www.irenefarm.co.za. Open 09:0018:00). For vintage bargain hunting
follow Antique Route 6 to 12 antique shops within a 5km
radius. Download the map at www.antiqueroute6pretoria.
co.za. Drop by hip caf Ginger & Fig for super breakfasts,
coffee and the cruffin, a delicious croissant-muffin hybrid
(Brooklyn Centre, 751 Jan Shoba St, Brooklyn, tel. +27 12
362 5926, www.gingerandfig.co.za. Open Mon 07:0017:30,
TueFri 06:00-09:00, Sat 07:0015:00, Sun 08:0013:00).
WHAT TO SEE
WHATS ON
For an overview of 20th and 21st-century South African

art, including marvellous works by South African masters
and contemporary exhibitions, visit the Pretoria Art Museum. Opened in 1962 the building is a fine example of
the International Style in architecture, set within a sculpture park (Cnr Francis Baard and Wessels Sts, Arcadia Park,
tel + 27 12 344 1807. Open 10:0017:00, Wed 10:0020:00,
Sun 12:0017:00. Closed Mon. Tickets R22). The excellent
Pretoria Zoo has a cable car and many rare species,
among them Komodo dragon and okapi. To get there, take
a Gautrain bus from Pretoria Station (232 Boom St, Central
Pretoria, +27 12 339 2700, ww.nzg.ac.za. Open 08:3017:30.
Every Saturday the buzzing Market on Main opens in

a beautiful historic warehouse in the heart of downtown
Pretoria. The long tables in the tree-filled courtyard are perfect for soaking up the sun with a craft beer and gourmet
snacks, while listening to live music. Great for young families too (012 Central, 385 Helen Joseph St, City Centre, marketonmain.co.za. Sat 09:0016:00). On the last Sunday of
every month, catch a lineup of new and established bands
at Park Acoustics in the park surrounding the Voortrekker Monument, built to commemorate the 1838 Great Trek
(Eeufees Rd, Groenkloof, www.parkacoustics. co.za. From
10:00. Tickets from R100).
Gay Joburg
Joburgs entrepreneurs have long ago given up attempts
to establish a gay neighbourhood in the city that will replicate the late 1980s and early 1990s when Hillbrow and
Braamfontein were magnets for a thriving gay scene. Like
most Joburg nightlife, these days exclusively LGBTI-themed
establishments are dispersed across many suburbs, and
they often remain sharply divided along racial lines. The
South African Constitution guarantees freedom of sexual
orientation, and gives gay citizens the right to enter into
civil partnerships. It is often the first thing youll hear gay
Joburgers mention when you enquire about their lives in
the city, but you will also hear about serious physical attacks on especially black lesbians by people intolerant of
their lifestyles. Most activism around this and LGBTI issues
in general is expressed at the citys many Pride events that
take place in spring each year.
Soweto Pride kicks off the season on Saturday, 26
September with a political programme, a lively march
and poetry, music and dance (tel. +27 11 403 1906, www.
sowetopride.co.za). Joburg Pride follows on Saturday,
25 October, with massive sound and lighting, sexy dancers and much more (Mushroom Farm Park, 124 Daisy St,
Sandown, Johannesburg Pride. From 10:00). Its rival, Johannesburg Pride, takes place on Saturday, 31 October,
with a parade through Melrose and festivities at Wanderers
Stadium. Keep an eye on Facebook for details of a masked
ball on Friday, 30 October (Wanderers Stadium, 35 Corlett
Dr, Illovo, JohannesburgPride. From 09:00).
TOURS
Tour Joburgs queer history with GALA to see the historic
sites of South Africas struggle for LGBTI rights: from the
infamous 1966 police raid on the Forest Town gay party
to Mrs Phadis 1980s gay tavern in Soweto.Q7th floor, University Corner, cnr Bertha and Jorissen Sts, Braamfontein, tel. +27 11 717 4239, www.gala.co.za.
FESTIVALS, BARS, CLUBS

STARTS 07.09 WEDNESDAY
#THATSOGAY FESTIVAL
Readings, comedy, poetry and exhibitions at the University of Johannesburgs annual festival.Q University of
Johannesburg Arts & Culture, Twitter #thatsogay.
FAGFEST AND BEARFEST
Two fun weekends 87km from Sandton to ring in and recover from Pretoria Pride. From 2527 September, wear
feathers to Fagfest, and hook up your caravan for Bearfest
from 46 December. Competitions, live entertainment, a
foam party pit and lots more fun, games and prizes.QFunny Farm Lodge, Boekenhoutskloof, Cullinan, tel. +27 83
282 2246, www.fagfestsa.com, www.bearfest.com.
RATZ
A fun gay-friendly bar on Melvilles main strip with a mixed
crowd.Q1 7th St, Melville, tel. +27 11 482 9965, www.
ratzbar.co.za. Open 16:0002:00, Fri, Sat 15:0002:00.
One of South Africas top photographers and LGBTIrights activist, Zanele Muholi, has a new exhibition at
Stevenson Gallery (see p. 37). The photograph above,
Ayanda & Nhlanhla Moremis wedding I, is from a previous exhibition.
1ST FRIDAY EXCLUSIVE GAY GIRL CLUB
A nine-year-old, members-only club. Register online to
find out about venues and events, and to show off your
mask at the Mansion Party on 3 October.QTel. +27 82
894 6114, 1stgaygirl.co.za.
BABYLON AND BEEFCAKES
Babylon is all dark lighting, pounding music and sexy barmen grinding on the bar counter, clad in their Y-fronts (tel.
+27 11 447 3215. Open 19:0004:00. Closed Mon, Tue. Cover
charge from R30). Next door is Beefcakes (tel. +27 114 475
266, www.beefcakes.co.za. Open 12:00 until the last guest
leaves. Closed Mon), staffed by shirtless, muscular dudes who
are as popular with gangs of ladies as they are with gay guys.
Fun drag shows and camp cabaret, starting at 20:30. Book in
advance.QBoth venues at llovo Muse, 198 Oxford Rd, Illovo.
REC ROOM
A fully licensed bar and steam-sauna bathhouse. Video
lounges, private cabins and a maze allow for plenty of adult
entertainment.QPhoenix Centre, cnr C.R. Swart and Malibongwe Drs, Randburg, tel. +27 11 792 1288, www.recroom.co.za. Open 12:0001:00, Fri, Sat 12:0007:00, Sun
13:0001:00. Admission R60R120.
PRIDE FURTHER AFIELD

Join the seventh Ekurhuleni LGBTI Pride parade on
Saturday, 5 September, followed by a picnic and performances by local DJs and drag artists (parade starts at
Golden Walk Mall, 141 Victoria St, Germiston, and ends
at Germiston Lake, Power St, tel. +27 11 73 226 3287,
EKURHULENI LGBTI PRIDE 2015. From 09:0018:00). The
third Pretoria Pride on Saturday, 10 October must
have all those apartheid prime ministers for whom the
suburb of Centurion was a bastion of racial purity and all
things conservative spinning in their graves (Centurion
Rugby Club, 270 West Ave, Centurion. From 09:0018:00,
PTAGayPride).
51
Luxury shopping
Joburg is not naturally a destination associated with luxury.

Its early origins are more tied to grit, determination and
hard work. A dusty gold-mining tent camp that became an
African metropolis, the citys first residents idea of luxury
was finding a space to escape the dust from the gold diggings. On the other hand, gold and the desire for it have
always been a part of this place and people continue to be
lured here in search of shiny stuff. To make it easier to find,
weve compiled the essential luxury Joburg list.
WHERE TO EAT AND DRINK

Head to The Four Seasons The Westcliff Hotel (see p. 25)
for the best views over the city and to dine at View. Choose
the tasting menu with wine pairing complete with foie
gras, sauteed scallops and black crab ravioli (cost R2 150
per person, without wine R1 450). For a more laid-back
experience theres a sumptuous brunch at Flames restaurant where, if you pace yourself, you can sample Wagyu
beef burgers, West Coast oysters and springbok carpaccio
(R595 per person). On a clear day you might even be lucky
enough to spot an elephant at the nearby Joburg Zoo,
and you could choose to walk off your brunch with a visit.
At Saxon Hotel, Villas and Spa (see p. 19) take time out
to enjoy a classic high tea (served ThuSat) in the piano
lounge with delicate petit fours, handmade pastries and
classic scones served with clotted cream flown in from the
Cape (R325R395) per person. Five Hundred is the Saxons
multi-award-winning fine-dining restaurant, where you
can follow a glamorous six-course dinner (R1800 with wine
pairing) with a drink at Eighteen05 whisky bar named for
its exclusive Johnnie Walker Blue Label.
For a lively night out on the town with excellent wines,
premium spirits and Champagne on ice, visit LOpulence
lounge (see p. 39), famed for its house DJ sets and exquisitely plated fusion tapas, or book a private table at VIP
Room for four people by ordering a bottle of cognac,
whiskey or vodka (prices from R1350 and up to R28 000
for a six-litre Veuve Methuselah). Team it with a Cohiba or
Montecristo cigar.QMichelangelo Towers Mall, Upper
Level, opp. Nelson Mandela Square, Sandton, tel. +27 76
783 2810, www.thevip.co.za. Open 22:0002:00.
HOW TO TRAVEL
HOT-AIR BALLOON
For the most refined journey, opt for an hour-long hot-air
balloon safari with Bill Harrops Original Balloon Safaris
and see the sunrise over the Magalies River Valley. Enjoy a
glass of bubbly on landing and a sumptuous English breakfast at a private table overlooking the mountains (cost
R8310, see p. 58). To ensure an easy 6am start, check into
the penthouse suite at the nearby De Hoek Country House
the night before to sample their fine dining menu (a private
dining menu is available on request). The best way to travel
is by helicopter from Lanseria Airport.QPenthouse suite
dinner, bed and breakfast R3 415 per person per night,
helicopter R7 000R15000. R98, Magaliesburg, tel.+27
14 577 9600, dehoek.com.
LUXURY JET OR HELICOPTER
Whether you need a luxury helicopter or a presidential
jet, book a VIP experience with Execujet. It will include a
secure private lounge facility and a concierge service to ensure seamless transfers, and pre-booked accommodation
and leisure activities. With offices at Lanseria Airport, Cape
Town International and Murtala Muhammed International
Airport in Lagos.QEntrance 1, Lanseria International Airport, tel. +27 11 516 2300, www.execujet.com.
ROVOS RAIL
The ultimate in luxury travel, filled with the romance of a
bygone age. Disconnect from the busyness and book a
one-way journey on Rovos Rail where youll be drawn back
to the grace of Victorian luxury travel. Trains leave from
Rovoss private station in Pretoria and a number of journeys
are available, from two-night trips to Cape Town or Durban
to a two-week trip ending in Dar Es Salaam, Tanzania. Book
the Royal Suite and head to Victoria Falls on a three-night
journey (R39 900).QPaul Kruger St, Pretoria, tel. +27 12
315 8242, www.rovos.com.
Photo credits: Scarf by LMad (see p. 54), Rovos Rail cabin service,
Execujet Gulfstream, Salana from Taunina (see p. 54), Champagne
at LOpulence, Sandton
Luxury shopping
A Jewel Boutique in
the Heart of Sandton,
Johannesburg.
For an appointment Call: + 27 11 784 7867 or +27 82 441 2121
WHERE TO SHOP
SANDTON CITY
Premier shopping centre Sandton Citys bling-filled Diamond Walk is the place to find global luxury household
names like Prada, Dolce & Gabbana, Gucci, Alexander McQueen, Giorgio Armani, Jimmy Choo, Louis Vuitton, Cartier
and a host of other brands. Once the shopping bags have
been filled its time to head to Arque Champagne Crescent for some French bubbles or a South Africa-produced
Methode Cap Classique and to ease any remaining cares
away. If you have money to burn set that cashpile alight
by ordering a R25 000 bottle of Champagne. For an al
fresco lunch walk the few steps from the Champagne bar
to Sandton Sun Hotels rooftop pool bar, the San Bar and
Restaurant.Q83 Rivonia Rd, Sandton, +27 11 217 6000,
www.sandtoncity.com Open 09:0020:00, Sun and public holidays 09:0018:00.
HYDE PARK CORNER
This is where youll find contemporary department stores
such as 2A and Luminance purveying a multitude of
global luxury brands. Among the many international labels
at Luminance youll also find local labels like Pichiluks eyecatching coiled-rope necklaces, Gillian Fuller Beaded
Cuffs, hand-made Ngwenya Glass from Swaziland and
Joburg designer label Marianne Fassler. Book a personal
shopping experience to be waited on by a stylist in a private room. For jewellery to sigh over theres Charles Greig
jewelers, a family business started in the 1890s. Today the
windows are replete with luxury timepieces, gold and diamonds, amethysts and rubies. This is also the place to find
Ardmore ceramic art, collectible hand-sculpted and handpainted objets dart and tableware created at Ardmore farm
in the Drakensberg Mountains.QHyde Park Corner, cnr
William Nicol Dr and 6th Rd, Hyde Park, tel. +27 11 325
4340, www.hydeparkcorner.co.za Open 09:0018:00,
Sun and public holidays 10:0015:00.
LEGACY CORNER AND MICHELANGELO TOWERS
At Legacy Corner Mall and Michelangelo Towers Mall, just
off Nelson Mandela Square, you will rub shoulders with
African royalty or heads of state at Neros Hair & Beauty

where the couch is a Bentley backseat, or in David Tlales
flagship store. Tlale, who presents collections in Paris and
New York, is known for his dramatic catwalk creations, and
his ready-to-wear collections epitomise luxury and are utterly wearable. For show-stopping wedding, cocktail and
evening wear, book a private consultation for you and
your entourage at ProNovias Barcelona.Q2-8 Maude St,
Sandton, www.legacyretail.co.za Open 09:3018:00, Sat
10:0017:00, Sun and public holidays 10:0015:00.
WHAT TO BUY
DIAMONDS AND TANZANITE
This appointment-only destination for your diamond and
tanzanite education is a perfect place to start your journey
to purchasing one of these flawless beauties. Bryllianta is a
plush, private and secure jewel boutique offering personalised service and drop-dead gorgeous views of Sandton
while you shop. Owner Brynas years of experience will ensure that you can tell the difference between your carats
and your carrots, and understand the quality and value of
stones before you make your purchase.QBryllianta Diamonds & Tanzanite, 16th Floor, Office 06, The Forum of
Sandton Square (2 Maude St), Sandton Central tel. +27
11 784 7867 or +27 82 441 2121.
FINE ART
Contemporary African art is making serious waves in the
global art world see pp. 3437 for the top galleries to visit.
If time is an issue, we suggest you browse and buy art online. Strauss & Co. is South Africas premier auction house
and its online auctions offer art, jewellery and antiques. The
site is easy to use and will alert you to upcoming auctions
(www.straussartonline.co.za). Guns & Rain is an innovative
startup selling contemporary fine art by established and
emerging southern African artists. Art can be shipped globally, or sourced on request (gunsandrain.com).
BESPOKE SHOPPING
Walking Tour company Past Experiences offer tailormade shopping trips that focus on contemporary
South African art, upmarket craft, rare books and local
design. Its a meet the makers approach as you travel
across the city to look at modern design, collectables,
vintage items and antiques.QTel + 27 11 678 3905,
pastexperiences.co.za.
53
Luxury shopping
LUGGAGE FROM MELVILL & MOON
The Melvill family date their origins in southern Africa back
to the 1700s and are inspired by a love of all things safari.
Their hand-made leather and canvas luggage will have you
looking the part for your African adventure. So many items
to choose from but no self-respecting explorer should
leave home without the Serengeti Sundowner, a leather
tote with six wine glasses safely stored (R2 700), or a leather
bird-book cover with removable shoulder strap for your
Roberts or Newman bird guides. Ask about their vintage
safari collectables.Q4 Desmond St, Kramerville +tel. +27
11 272 5030, www.melvillandmoon.com.
KIRSTEN GOSS AND MISSIBABA

Fine handcrafted jewellery in gold and silver with precious stones teamed up with handcrafted leather handbags. These labels are two of the best South African
luxury accessory brands. Durban-born Kirsten Goss made
her name as a jewellery designer in London with her
Kensington store. The Johannesburg shop shares space
with the exceptional Cape Town-based handbag label
Missibaba (see photographs above).QShop 3, 64 St Andrew St, Birdhaven +27 11 447 2234, www.kirstengoss.
com and www.missibaba.com. Open 09:0017:00, Sat
09:0013:00. Closed Sun.
LMAD SCARVES
LMad creates wearable contemporary African artworks.
Director Lucy MacGarry curates an evolving collection of silk
scarves for him or her printed with works by South African
artists and designers. The pieces are limited edition, in silk
chiffon, cashmere or twill. Stockists include Guillotine at
44 Stanley (see p. 56).Qwww.lmadcollection.com.
YSWARA AND AVOOVA
Yswara creates beautifully
packaged exotic blends of
loose-leaf teas sourced from
African tea estates in the rolling
hills of Rwanda, and Malawis
misty highlands. The flavours are handcrafted, the leaves
hand-picked and sun-dried. The names conjure regal African kings and powerful queens. Try the Pharaoh Tut with
its scent of hibiscus or the King Lalibela rooibos infusion.
Available at Avoova African Originals, at Four Seasons
The Westcliff, where you can also find a range of luxury gifts
including Avoovas Ostrich egg jewellery, homeware and
accessories and Masai beaded dog collars by Seringa.Q67
Jan Smuts Avenue, Westcliff, tel. +27 11 481 6220.
TAUNINA
Tauninas unique hand-embroidered teddy bears combine
handcrafted perfection with social upliftment. The bears are
made by women from impoverished communities across Africa, and each item is designed and embellished by a single
artist over five to seven days. Each bear carries the initials and
details of the artist who made him or her. This Cape Town
company started in 2011 and today ships its bears across the
globe, each with its own bespoke passport.QAvailable from
Apsley House, Hyde Park Corner or online from www.
taunina.com. Prices from R4 700.
MARIGOLD COOPERATIVE
Marigolds hand-loomed beaded necklaces are the result
of an extraordinary collaboration between Joburg-based
artist Joni Brenner and womens cooperative Marigold,
based in Bulawayo, Zimbabwe. Each string is a marvel of
colour and geometry and must be accompanied by another, and another.QAvailable from Kim Sacks Gallery,
153 Jan Smuts Ave, Parkwood. tel. + 27 11 447 5804,
www.kimsacksgallery.com. Open 09:0017:30, Sat
10:0017:00. Closed Sun. Prices from R300.
SHIRTS BY VICTOR DLAMINI
When Victor Dlamini walks into a
room everyone notices his shirt.
Unusually its the men in the
room who will be casting admiring glances at his attire always
a fitted shirt, custom-made, and
using just the right amount
of gloriously patterned batik
wax-printed fabric from West
Africa, sourced from Ghana or
Cte dIvoire, Congo or Senegal
to attract the eye. The flashes
of colour are stitched into the
design, sometimes with added
embroidery.QContact Victor at
victor@victordlamini.com. Prices from R1 200.
From mid-December to early January, many Joburg
businesses close. Call before visiting.
For more shopping options, go to
www.johannesburg.inyourpocket.com
Shopping
HIPSTER LUXE
For an ever-changing landscape of beautiful objects
that will satisfy any global aesthete, visit The Jungle
in Craighall Park. Located in a former furniture factory,
the owners of this hipster concept store have retained
its industrial interior, added a
doorman named
Nice, a bloom
counter and a
sunny alleyway
filled with palms
and
tropical
plants. Hipster
luxe finds include limited edition sneakers, fixie bikes,
quirky dcor pieces and Simon & Marys cult range of
retro-inspired hats. Fans of designer sneakers need look
no further than Braamfonteins Puma Select store, a
shrine to the high fashion sports shoe selling limited
edition designs by the likes of Alexander McQueen and
House of Hackney.
THE JUNGLEQ357 Jan Smuts Ave, Craighall Park, tel.
+27 11 326 0786, thejungleonline.com. Open 09:00
17:00, Sat 09:0015:00. Closed Sun.
PUMA SELECTQ81 Juta St, Braamfontein, tel. +27 11
403 3096, www.pumaselect.co.za. Open 09:0018:00,
Sat 09:0017:00. Closed Sun.
COOL LOCAL LABELS

BLACK COFFEE & LOVE JOZI
Designer Jacques van Watts Black Coffee label combines
innovative design thinking with meticulous construction,
and is always the toast of SA Fashion Week. The lable shares
space with the iconic Love Jozi, a T-shirt and homeware
brand celebrating the citys uniqueness.Q27 Boxes, (see p.
56), www.blackcoffee.co.za, www.lovejozi.co.za.
FIREHOUSE
A great gift stop with linen, ceramics, tableware and homeware, from essentials to luxury pieces.Q6 Dunkeld West
Centre, cnr Jan Smuts Ave and Bompas Rd, Dunkeld
West, tel. +27 11 325 2225, www.fire-house.co.za. Open
09:0017:00, Sat 09:0014:00. Closed Sun.
IWASSHOT IN JOBURG :)
A range of Joburg street photography products including
prints, T-shirts, frames, notebooks and cushions. Behind the
cameras are former street kids.QStores at Arts on Main,
264 Fox St, Maboneng and at Rosebank Mall (see p. 56),
tel. +27 82 922 5674, www.iwasshot.com.
LOVE BOOKS
A great selection of South African titles. Here youll find
award-winning books and books people are or should be
talking about.QBamboo, 53 Rustenburg Rd, Melville, tel.
+27 11 726 7408, www.lovebooks.co.za. Open 09:00
17:00, Sat 09:0016:00, Sun 09:0014:00.
55
Shopping
HOT SPOT: ROSEBANK
Criss-crossed by pedestrianised streets and walkways
lined with dining, entertainment and retail options,
and with the flagship Rosebank Mall at its centre, this
is a very popular destination for visitors and locals
alike. Come here for African crafts, high-street shopping, cinemas, local fashion labels and buzzing restaurants and cafs.
ROSEBANK ART AND CRAFT MARKET
A one-stop spot for all your African souvenir needs
from impressive life-size beaded sculptures to those
must-have wooden carved giraffes. With dozens of
traders from across the continent, stalls sell all manner of handmade African-inspired crafts, from decorative masks and brightly coloured traditional fabrics
to unique jewellery and homeware. Be ready to negotiate: traders stand by the motto This is Africa. We
Bargain.QEntrance on Craddock Ave (next to Europa Cafe), tel. +27 11 568 0850, www.artandcraftmarket.co.za. Open 09:0018:00, Fri 09:0019:00,
Sat, Sun and public holidays 09:0017:00. Closed
2526.12 and 01.01.
ROSEBANK MALL
Put on your walking shoes and explore the newly renovated Rosebank Mall, an impressive shopping zone
with 150 stores. There are loads of affordable local
and imported High Street brands such as Cotton On,
River Island, Mr Price, Cape Union Mart (for camping
and hiking gear), two supermarkets and the Edgars
and Woolworths department stores. Other worthwhile
stops include Reads for vintage and contemporary
jewellery, IndegeniusZA for hand-crafted luxury mohair garments and throws, and Exclusive Books for a
fair trade flat white while you browse the latest paperbacks. Once the shoppings done, take in an art house
movie at Cinema Nouveau.QEntrances on Baker St,
Bath Ave and Craddock Ave, tel. +27 11 788 5530,
www.rosebankmall.co.za. Open from 09:0018:00,
Fri 09:0019:00, Sat, Sun and public holidays 09:00
17:00, 1123.12 09:0020:00, 24.12 09:0017:00.
ROSEBANK SUNDAY MARKET
This expansive rooftop market specialises in colourful crafts, artworks and assorted bric-a-brac, with
a decent selection of enticing food stalls and local
fashion thrown into the mix, plus live music and a
craft beer bar. The huge covered space accommodates talented artists working with myriad materials,
from steel to beads, as well as antiques vendors and
the Stand for Hope; a stall provided every week by
the market for a local charity to promote their cause.
Fun for the whole family.QRosebank Mall Level 4
(address above), www.rosebanksundaymarket.
co.za. Open Sun 09:0016:00.
Get your name band at Rosebank Art and Craft Market
SHOPPING CENTRES
Whether your taste is for local design, a boutique experience or bargains galore these three stops will satisfy. For
oodles of luxury brands see our focus on Luxury Joburg
(p. 5254).
27 BOXES
This shipping container development in Melville has
transformed a disused park into more than 70 boutique
stores, restaurant and kiosk spaces geared towards starter
entrepreneurs, from fashion designers to chefs, jewellers
to interior designers. Stores emphasise local design and
production. Youll find Love Jozi and Black Coffee (see p.
55), quirky screen-printed designs on homeware items and
accessories at Yda Walt, a toe-popping display of socks at
Toe Porn, and delicious food to eat while you browse (see
p. 26).Q75 3rd Ave (parking entrance on 4th Ave), Melville, tel. +27 11 712 0067, www.27Boxes.co.za. Open
09:0017:00, Sun 10:0016:00, public holidays 09:00
14:00. Closed Mon, 25.12 and 01.01.2016.
44 STANLEY
This converted 1930s industrial complex is a charming
space to shop, dine and drink with lots of cute courtyard
cafs shaded by olive trees. Look out for Art On Paper Gallery, Guillotine by Lisa Jaffe for form-fitting and finely
tailored clothing, Anatomy for sophisticated homeware
items, and other specialist boutiques.Q44 Stanley Ave, cnr
Owl St, Milpark, tel. +27 11 482 4444, www.44stanley.
co.za. Open 10:0016:00, Sun 10:0015:00. Note many
shops and cafs do not open on Mon.
ORIENTAL PLAZA
For a different pace to the malls of the northern suburbs,
head to this thriving bazaar for bargain-priced fashion and
haberdashery, wedding wear, shoes, toys and household
goods. Shop for a dazzling array of saris and fabrics, armfuls of bracelets and hand-stitched Indian cotton quilts,
while fuelled up on the legendary coconut samoosas from
World of Samoosas.QA-4/5, 38 Bree St (now Lilian Ngoyi
St), Fordsburg, tel. +27 11 838 6752, www.orientalplaza.
co.za. Open 09:0017:00, Sat 09:0015:00. Closed Sun.
Many shops close Fri between 12:0014:00 for prayers.
Shopping
MARKETS
Any day of the week is market day in Joburg. Here youll
find great food, the widest variety of crafted goods and
vintage items, collectables, knick-knacks and must-have
souvenirs. Mabonengs Sunday Market on Main is a popular attraction (see p. 43), and the Rosebank Art and Craft
Market and weekly Sunday rooftop market are also not to
be missed (see p. 56).
BRYANSTON NATURAL & ORGANIC MARKET
This is the original outdoor market, in existence for close
on 40 years and still offering a superb range of organic
goods and products in a relaxed environment. From arts
and crafts and health and wellness to preservative-free
home-baked goods, plus authentic Panama hats, there are
plenty of dreamcatchers and hammocks, and, reassuringly,
not a hipster in sight. The garden setting and tables under
the trees make it a perfect venue for families.Q40 Culross
Rd, Bryanston, tel. +27 11 706 3671, www.bryanstonorganicmarket.co.za. Open Thu, Sat and public holidays
09:0015:00.
NEIGHBOURGOODS MARKET
Cloned and transplanted from its native Cape Town into an
urban city block, this hip market now attracts up to 4 000
people to the city over the course of the day. There is a great
selection of pricey food and drinks, with queues for the ever
popular paella stand and Balkan burgers, along with frozen mojitos and craft beer. Follow the cool crowd up to the
rooftop, where youll find designer clothing, leatherware
and a great city view.QC-3, 73 Juta St, Braamfontein, tel.
+27 11 403 0413, www.neighbourgoodsmarket.co.za.
Open Sat 09:0015:00.
SOWETO MARKETS
THE LOCRATE MARKET
Mixing the usual food trucks and cool handmade items
that weekend market aficionados love, with a distinctly
Soweto buzz courtesy of local street fashion and DJs.
Very conveniently located for tourists as it is just a
stones throw from the famous Vilakazi Street.QCnr
Kudu and Moema Sts, Orlando West, Soweto, tel.
+27 73 521 9035, www.locratemarket.co.za. Every
1st Sun of the month, from 10:0017:00.
SOWETO ART AND CRAFT FAIR
Envisaged as a platform for talented local artists, designers and craftsmen to sell their wares and gain
publicity, this open-air market at the Soweto Theatre
amphitheatre also features live music and is a chilledout place to bring the family and see a different side
of township life.QSoweto Theatre, Cnr Bolani Rd and
Bolani Links Rd, Jabulani, Soweto, tel. +27 11 930
7461, www.sowetotheatre.com. First Sat of every
month from 12:0018:00.
57
Sport & Outdoors

GREAT ESCAPES
Leave the city behind with a trip to the Magaliesburg
Valley, a mountain range on the fringes of the Hartbeespoort Dam, just an hours drive from Johannesburg. For a total treat, book a balloon ride. The Walter
Sisulu Botanical Gardens and Hennops River
offer excellent hiking trails, while at Sterkfontein
Caves youll have a chance to explore the underside
of the earth.
BILL HARROPS BALLOON SAFARIS
The dapper and sprightly Bill Harrop has been in command of this balloon fleet since 1981 and his original
balloon safari is the gold standard of ballooning experiences. Gliding through the Highveld skies as the
sun rises is an unforgettable experience. Make this an
extra special trip by checking into the five-star boutique De Hoek Country Hotel, a 20-minute drive from
the airfield (see p. 52).QSkeerpoort (off the R560),
Magaliesburg, tel. +27 11 705 3201, www.balloon.
co.za. Costs R2150 per person for a 60-minute trip.
A variety of packages are available.
HENNOPS HIKING TRAILS
One of Gautengs best hiking trails to see abundant
indigenous flora and fauna and wonderful views of
the Magaliesberg mountains. There are three wellmaintained circular routes: a 2km family trail, the
6km Zebra Route (2 hours) and the more challenging
11.3km Krokodilberg Route (45 hours). There is very
little shade and no drinking water, so bring plenty
of supplies and try to set off as early as possible.
QEntrance off the R511, 10km south of the R105
junction (25km west of Pretoria), tel. +27 82 825
9205, www.hennopstrails.co.za. Tickets R60, last
entrance at 12:00.
STERKFONTEIN CAVES
Take a 45-minute guided tour of these famous caves in
the Cradle of Humankind, where some of the worlds
oldest hominid fossils were discovered, including the
two-million-year-old Mrs Ples and the approximately
3.6-million-year-old Little Foot.QOff the R563 (30 minutes drive north of Sandton), tel. +27 14 577 9000,
www.maropeng.co.za. Open 09:0017:00. Tickets
R165, kids R97, pensioners R85, students R100.
WALTER SISULU BOTANICAL GARDENS
Find stunning flora and fauna, excellent birdwatching
and waterfalls at this well-tended park 30 minutes
drive north of Sandton. An ideal place for morning
hikes or laidback picnics.QMalcolm Rd, Roodepoort,
tel. +27 86 100 1278, www.sanbi.org/gardens/
walter-sisulu. Open 08:0017:00. Entrance R35,
discounts for students and pensioners. Kids under
6 free.
Yoga with Steven Heyman
BREATHE DEEPLY
One way to get to travel to unusual places across Joburg
is to follow yoga instructor Steven Heyman. Over the
past year Heyman, originally from Belgium, has organised
Vinyasa Flow yoga sessions on city rooftops, at art galleries
and hosts a regular Sunday class outdoors at Emmarentia
Botanical Gardens. For Mandela Day the crowds gathered
at Constitution Hill to be guided through 27 different yoga
poses, one for each year that Nelson Mandela spent in prison. The proceeds from that class were donated entirely to
charity. Heyman began practising yoga in 2007. He ditched
a corporate job he studied commercial engineering to
become a full-time instructor in 2014. His classes accommodate advanced and beginner yogis, and are taught at a
slow but intense pace.
Joburg is a very busy and high-paced city. There is an
amazing energy, but at the same time the fast pace and
daily demands can cause lots of pressure and stress. Add
to that modern means of communication and lots of sitting behind desks and computers, and you have a recipe
for pain, aches, and a permanently busy mind modern problems for which yoga can present an ancient
solution.QYoga Works, tel. +27 72 835 2525, www.yogaworks.co.za.
PARK LIFE
BOTANICAL GARDENS AND EMMARENTIA DAM
This sprawling green oasis has extensive parkland for enjoying long walks, a dam popular with local canoeists and
a pretty terraced formal rose garden favoured for weekend
weddings.QOlifants Rd, Emmarentia, tel. +27 11 782
7064. Open 06:0018:00.
ZOO LAKE
One of Joburgs most popular parks. At weekends it packs
out with people of all ages and backgrounds hanging
out, playing cricket and basketball, rowing boats, feeding
the ducks and enjoying picnics. Take a dip at the Zoo Lake
swimming pool.QPrince of Wales Dr, Parkwood, tel. +27
11 646 1131.
Grooming
Couples treatment room, Four Seasons Spa
SPAS AND SALONS

The must-visit list whether youre looking for a smooth hot
towel shave, perfectly manicured tips, fluttering lashes or
spa treatments that will provide a great escape.
CARLTON HAIR
Celebrity stylist David Gilson will give your locks the perfect treatment in this popular salon. Joburgs glamour set
line up here with great devotion, sipping cappuccino while
flipping through Gilsons selection of the latest European
fashion mags. Dont trip over the Louis Vuitton handbags.
Prices are breathtaking but youll end up being thankful.
QHyde Park Corner, 6th Road, Hyde Park, tel. +27 11
325 4998 www.carltonhair.com. Open 09:0018:00, Sun
10:0013:00.
SORBET MAN
The mantra at this chic retro barbershop and salon is #RealMenGroom. Shoe-cleaning is on the menu, along with a
range of spa products ensuring your skin gets a treatment
while you take care of grooming essentials. Order an americano or espresso straight up or book a later appointment
and enjoy a whisky. Go for the hot towel shave, smooth,
slow and close, using five towels. Sorbet Man also offers
haircuts and colour, manicures, pedicures, facials and waxing. Drop by or make a booking.QShop L32, Entrance
6, Sandton City, 5th St, Sandton, tel. +27 11 784 8650,
www.sorbet.co.za/sorbet-man. Open 09:0019:00, Fri
09:0020:00, Sat, Sun 09:0018:00, public holidays
09:0017:00.
BEAUTY ON THE RUN
FOUR SEASONS SPA NEW

The search for serenity should lead here. The Four Seasons
The Westcliff Spa epitomises refined luxury. Book a treatment or package (two to five hours). His and hers steam
rooms, saunas, dressing rooms fit for royalty, a wraparound
outdoor lap pool and a jacuzzi that hugs the post-treatment relaxation room are reasons to linger. On sunny days
head to the Aprs-Spa outdoor lounge for a light meal, or
up the hill for a splash-out, sumptuous brunch. Spa products include Terres dAfrique, an Africa-made heavenly
scented skin and body care range.Q67 Jan Smuts Ave,
Westcliff, tel. +27 11 481 6450, www.fourseasons.com/
johannesburg/spa/. Open 09:0020:00.
PRETTY PRECIOUS NEW

Pretty Dube and Precious Madonsela will give you
personalised service and a cosy space to get your nail
needs sorted. Expect perfect and pampering paintwork while you sit in a sumptuous massage chair. For
the time-poor, the two work together to ensure you
are done within an hour. The setting is a sunny salon
in a house one block from Rosebanks busy centre,
and next door is Salon Roma Italian barbershop. Booking required.Q29 1st Ave East, Parktown North, tel.
+27 11 447 5797, www.pretty-precious.co.za. Open
08:3017:00, Sat 08:3015:00. Closed Sun, Mon.
LASH & BROW BAR

Youll leave this specialist lash and brow bar with eyelashes made for compliments whether you choose
ultra-impressive natural-looking ones or extra-length
Hollywood glamour. Located in suburban Bryanston
(Sandton), brow tinting and shaping, facials, manicures,
pedicures, waxing and massages are also offered in
this tranquil environment. Get your nails done while
your lashes are applied, and wake up beautiful.Q62 St
James Cres., Bryanston, tel. +27 11 463 8471, www.
lashandbrowbar.co.za. Open TueFri 08:0017:00,
Sat 08:0013:00.
59
Joburg Basics
Joburg storm, Justin Lee
24-HOUR CITY
Joburgs relentless pace slows in the evening, and many
restaurant kitchens close before 22:00. Most galleries and
museums are closed on Mondays, along with many restaurants. The citys nightlife is scattered, so plan your night out
in advance and call restaurants to check on kitchen closing
times. Convenience stores at petrol stations are the most
JOBURG: BASIC FACTS

NICKNAMES Egoli, Jozi, Joburg, Joeys, City of Gold
ECONOMIC CLOUT The countrys financial heart and
the economic powerhouse of sub-Saharan Africa.
Home to the headquarters of more than 70 per cent of
South African companies
STOCK EXCHANGE The Johannesburg Stock Exchange
in Sandton is the largest on the continent and among
the 20 biggest bourses in the world
POPULATION More than four million people live in and
around the city, and 42 per cent are younger than 24
DIVERSITY The 2011 census shows that 76.4 per cent
of Joburgs population are black African, 12.3 per cent
are white people, 5.6 per cent are coloured people, and
4.9 per cent are Indian/Asian. Of those 19.2 per cent
have some form of higher education, and 2.9 per cent
of those aged 20 and older have no form of schooling
INLAND PORT Has one of the largest inland ports in
the world the City Deep freight terminal
GREEN CITY Joburg has one of the worlds largest urban forests, with around six million trees
ELEVATION More than 1 700m above sea level, so water boils at 96 Celsius
likely places to be open after hours if you need basics like

airtime for your cell phone. Melville, Greenside and Braamfontein are traditionally late-night haunts. Staying out until
the early hours doesnt deter Joburgers from rising with the
birds. Traffic swells soon after dawn, and youll see joggers,
cyclists, domestic workers and dog-walkers making their
way through the suburbs in the early morning.
ALCOHOL
South Africa is a paradise for wine lovers. There are countless wine producers and brands, and the bottles you will
find in stores and supermarkets are more than affordable,
especially compared with European prices. Wine can be
bought in supermarkets and bottle stores, and local and
imported beers and spirits only at bottle stores. Most restaurants allow you to bring your own wine for a corkage
fee. A wide variety of local beers is produced by South African Breweries, and there is an emerging craft-beer industry.
Different provinces have different rules regulating the availability of alcohol.
BANKING AND MONEY

BANKING South Africa has a modern and sophisticated
banking system. Foreign currency can be exchanged at most
retail banks (found in most shopping centres) and bureaux
de change. If you need foreign currency, check the banks
requirements (documentation and account status) first since
foreign notes are not readily available. ATMs can be found
everywhere. Major credit and debit cards (Visa and Mastercard are the most widely accepted) can be used at most
retail and hospitality establishments. The four major retail
banks are Absa (www.absa.co.za), FNB First National
Bank (www.fnb.co.za), Nedbank (www.nedbank.co.za)
and Standard Bank (www.standardbank.co.za).
Joburg Basics
CURRENCY The unit of currency is the rand (ZAR), known
informally as the randela because notes bear the image of
former president Nelson Mandela. There are 100c in each
rand. Banknotes are issued in denominations of R200, R100,
R50, R20 and R10. Coins come in R5, R2, R1, 50c, 20c, 10c
and 5c units.
VALUE-ADDED TAX (VAT) A tax of 14% is levied on all
consumer goods and services, except some basic foodstuffs. Price tags generally include Vat unless this amount
is separately stated. Non-resident foreign passport holders
can claim a Vat refund two refund offices are located
in the international departures hall of O.R. Tambo International Airport. Present your purchases and tax invoices for
inspection. See www.taxrefunds.co.za for full details.
CLIMATE
Joburg has sunny days and, less frequently, not-so-sunny
days. The seasons mostly blend into each other, with summer from November to March and milder temperatures from
April to May. Winter starts in June and lasts until August.
Spring (September and October) is brief, and youll know it
by the distinctive purple haze that the blooming jacaranda
trees cast across the citys northern suburbs. Summer temperatures average 25 C (77 F), with winter days dropping to
a low of around 15 C (59 F). Winter nights can dip to 4 C (39
F). Summer is when it rains and Joburg has its trademark afternoon thundershowers, with spectacular lightning displays
and the occasional rainbow to match.
COMMUNICATION
The local dialling code for landline numbers is 011. From
outside the country or from your cell phone it is +27 11.
Numbers starting with 086 can only be dialled locally. For
directory information, dial 1023 from a landline. Joburgers
love their cellphones, and kids as young as 10 have their
own phones.
CELL PHONE NETWORKS There are four cell phone networks: Vodacom (www.vodacom.co.za), MTN (www.mtn.
co.za), Cell C (www.cellc.co.za) and Telkom Mobile (www.
telkommobile.co.za). Website My Broadband offers price
comparisons on call and data packages (www.mybroadband.
co.za). All networks offer pay-as-you-go as well as contract
call and data options. They have stores in all major shopping
centres, and airtime can be purchased at supermarkets, petrol
stations and online.
RICA By law all mobile SIM cards must be registered. You
will need your passport and proof of the address where you
are staying to get a local SIM.
VODACOM RENTAPHONE Rent SIM cards, phones, GPS devices, routers, USB modems and satellite phones. Advanced
bookings can be made via email.QInternational Arrivals
Hall, O.R. Tambo International Airport, reservations@cellucity.co.za, tel. +27 11 394 8834. Open 06:0022:00.
LOCAL PRICES
Big Mac
R25.50
Cappuccino R20R25
Cinema ticket
R55
Daily newspaper
R4R15
Litre of petrol
R11.5
Loaf of bread
R8R11
Local beer (in a bar)
R20
NEED TO KNOW
DISABLED TRAVEL By law all public buildings must be
accessible to the disabled, and many hotels, restaurants,
museums and national parks are wheelchair-friendly.
See www.southafrica.info/travel/advice/disabled.htm.
ELECTRICITY Electricity is supplied at 220 volts and
50 hertz throughout South Africa. Valuable electronics
should be used with a surge protector, available at large
supermarkets, where you can also find converters for the
bulky three-pronged plugs used locally. South Africas
power supplier, Eskom, has been struggling to meet
demand and occasionally implements loadshedding
(planned powercuts to release pressure on the grid). Find
the loadshedding schedule at citypower.co.za.
POLITICS South Africa is ruled by the African National
Congress (ANC). The country has a multiparty political
system and more than 10 political parties in Parliament.
The current president is Jacob Zuma.
SMOKING South Africa was way ahead of most countries in banning smoking in public places. Smoking in
cars in the presence of children under the age of 12 is
forbidden, while children under the age of 18 are prohibited from entering designated smoking areas and
purchasing cigarettes.
TIME ZONE South Africa is UTC/GMT +2 hours, and the
entire country is in the same
time zone. Some applications
pick this up as Harare time.
There is no daylight saving time.
TOURISM INFORMATION Useful contacts include Joburg
Tourism (www.joburgtourism.
com) and Gauteng Tourism
(www.gauteng.net).
WATER The tap water throughout the city, provided by Johannesburg Water, is among the
cleanest, safest and healthiest
in the world. It also tastes good.
61
Joburg Basics
TRAVEL TIPS
Safety in any major city is about common sense,
information and awareness, and Joburg is no exception.
Although every effort is made to keep visitors safe, no
city is crime-free. Be aware of your surroundings, keep
your valuables close by and ask locals for advice.
When exploring the city use registered and accredited
tour guides. See page 45 for our recommendations,
and www.joburgtourism.com (tel. +27 11 703 5327) for
tips and safety information.
EMERGENCY NUMBERS
Various services aim to ensure the safety of Joburgs visitors and more than 4.6 million residents. These include:
Johannesburg Metro Police Department (JMPD), the
South African Police Service (SAPS) and the Gauteng
Traffic Police. When in uniform, officers wear service
and rank insignia as well as a name badge. You have
the right to ask officers to identify themselves with their
identity cards whenever they approach you.
POLICE EMERGENCY Dial
10111 to contact a national
call centre that can assign a
patrol vehicle to attend to a
crime incident
FIRE AND AMBULANCE
Dial 10177
CELLPHONE NETWORKS
Dial 112 to be connected to
a 24-hour emergency-service operator. This is a free call
MEDICAL Dial 082 911 to connect to Netcare 911s 24hour operations centre, or 084 124 for ER24. Both are
private emergency medical services
PLACES OF WORSHIP
There is a great deal of religious tolerance and diversity
in South Africa. Joburg has many places of worship and
spiritual sites (see www.johannesburg.inyourpocket.
com for addresses and contact numbers of various
religious congregations). In suburbs like Yeoville and
Hillbrow you can follow the sounds of the charismatic
preachers from Nigeria and Cameroon, who set up
in backyards and under makeshift tarpaulins. On
weekends many public parks are commandeered by
churchgoers. You will see groups of people dressed
in blue-and-white, green-and-white or khaki suits, a
trademark silver star identifying their allegiance to the
Zion Christian Church (ZCC). Preachers worship on
top of Yeoville Ridge, the highest green point in the
inner city, which is believed to bring followers closer
to their god.
INTERNET ACCESS
More and more cafs, restaurants and accommodation

establishments offer free wi-fi. Speeds are decent but can
vary by provider. There are ongoing attempts to speed
things up and youll notice dug-up pavements as fibreoptic cables are being laid. Pay-as-you-go data packages
can be bought in conjunction with your local SIM card.
MILKY WAY INTERNET CAF Offers public computing
facilities with Internet access starting at R35/h, as well as
refreshments. Workstations can be used at half price from
19:0023:00 on Sundays and public holidays.QShop LG03,
The Zone @ Rosebank, Oxford Rd, Rosebank, tel. +27 11
447 1295, www.milkyway.co.za. Open 08:3023:00.
MEDIA
South Africa has a free press and was ranked 42nd out of
179 countries in Reporters Without Borders 2014 press
freedom index. There are many local and national newspaper titles, and public and commercial radio and TV
channels. Read Business Day (www.bdlive.co.za), Daily
Maverick (www.dailymaverick.co.za), Sunday Times
(www.timeslive.co.za), City Press (www.citypress.co.za)
or Mail&Guardian (www.mg.co.za). For the raciest headlines, read The Daily Sun. Listen to Radio 702 (92.7 FM)
for talk radio, and for music 5FM (98.0) or Kaya FM (95.9).
SABC (www.sabc.co.za) is the public broadcaster, and
e.TV and eNCA (www.etv.co.za and www.enca.com) are
free-to-air TV channels.
MEDICAL CARE
Joburg has many world-class private hospitals that offer
specialist care, but they can be pricey. Take your passport or
identity document and any medical insurance information
with you when you visit. The casualty departments/emergency rooms at private hospitals are open around the clock.
For advice on malaria prophylactics and malaria areas, such
as the north of Limpopo province, speak to a chemist.
EMERGENCY DOCTOR AND DENTIST
This practice offers emergency medical and dental care.
Doctor tel. +27 82 457 0176, dentist tel. +27 82 443 5366.
It also offers home, hotel and business visits.Q7 Long Ave,
Glenhazel, tel. +27 11 440 5325, www.emergencydoctoranddentist.co.za. Open 24/7.
MAYS CHEMIST
A late-night pharmacy with a delivery service until 17:00
within a 10km radius. Deliveries charged at R10.Q11 Main
Rd, Melville, tel. +27 11 726 8014. Open MonSat 08:00
21:00, Sun 09:0014:00, 17:0021:00.
MORNINGSIDE DISPENSARY
An after-hours pharmacy.QThe Wedge Shopping Centre, 255 Rivonia Rd, Morningside, tel. + 27 11 883 6588,
scripts@morningsidedispensary.co.za. Open 08:30
21:00, Sun 09:0021:00.
Joburg Basics
NETCARE MILPARK HOSPITAL
A level-1 trauma centre that caters for life-threatening
medical emergencies.Q9 Guild Rd, Parktown West, +27
11 480 5600. Open 24/7.
NETCARE SUNNINGHILL HOSPITAL
Has a 24-hour accident and emergency unit and the Albertina Sisulu Sexual Assault Unit.QCnr Witkoppen and
Nanyuki Rds, Sunninghill, +27 11 806 1500. Open 24/7.
THE SMILE FACTORY
For after-hours dental emergencies call +27 84 577 9786.
QSalveo Health and Wellness Centre, cnr William Nicol
Dr and Leslie Ave, Fourways, tel. +27 87 351 8333. Open
08:0017:00, Sat 08:0014:00.
PUBLIC HOLIDAYS
No matter how solemn their intention, most people regard
public holidays as shopping-extravaganza days and most big
malls will be open. Whenever a public holiday falls on a Sunday, the Monday following it is also a public holiday.
January 1
March 21
March 25
March 28
April 27
May 1
June 16
August 9
September 24
December 16
December 25
December 26
New Years Day

Human Rights Day
Good Friday
Family Day
Freedom Day
Workers Day
Youth Day
National Womens Day
Heritage Day
Day of Reconciliation
Christmas Day
Day of Goodwill
POSTAGE
The South African Post Office is not well regarded after a
protracted recent strike, so dont expect postcards or parcels to arrive timeously. Post Office branches can be found
in most shopping malls, as can their commercial rival Postnet (tel. 0860 767 8638, www.postnet.co.za). For sending
packages and letters in a hurry or for courier services,
Postnet is your best bet. Note there is a Post Office branch
in O.R. Tambo airport (Terminal A1 International Arrivals.
Open 07:0021:00, Sat and Sun 07:0020:00).
TIPPING
If your religion encourages charity, Joburg is a blessed destination. Apart from the usual recipients, such as waiters
and petrol attendants, theres a plethora of people waiting
for (and depending on) a tip: baggage handlers, car guards,
security guards, beggars, newspaper sellers and roadside
salespeople. Most will happily accept a few rand (small
coins might be sniffed at). For good service at restaurants,
10% of the bill is the expected minimum tip, and expect to
dole out between R5 and R10 to petrol attendants.
SOUTH AFRICANISMS
South Africa has 11 official languages: Afrikaans, English, Ndebele, Northern and Southern Sotho, Sotho,
Swati, Tswana, Tsonga, Venda, Xhosa and Zulu. Most
South Africans speak more than one language, but city
life happens in English. Apart from the official languages, Joburg is home to a babel of language communities from across the globe. While English is the lingua
franca, cultural diversity has created a South African
language of its own. Handy words include:
Babelas Hangover
Bakkie Pick-up truck
Boerewors Sausage of minced meat and spices
Born-frees Children born after the advent of democracy in 1994
Braai Both the act of coal-grilling meat, and the event
at which it is eaten
Brinjal Aubergine, eggplant
Bro or Boet Brother, meaning friend
Bunny chow A hollowed out loaf of bread filled with
curry
Car guard Someone who offers to help you park and
look after the car
Coloured Refers to an ethnic group of mixed European
and African origin
Dagga or zol Marijuana
Eish! Exclamation of surprise or wonder
Howzit How are you?
Ja Yes (originally Afrikaans)
Jol To go out on the town, to party
Just now or Now-now Any time in the near future,
from two minutes to many hours
Lanie A boss or smarty-pants
Lekker Tasty or cool
Monkeygland sauce A fruity, tangy meat dressing
(theres no monkey in it)
Mzansi A Zulu word for South Africa
Pap A stiff porridge made with maize-meal and best
served with a tomato-and-onion gravy or a meat stew.
It is a South African staple
Plastic? When someone asks you this question they
want to know if you want to buy a plastic bag in which
to carry your shopping
Robot Traffic light
Sawubona A greeting in Zulu
Sharp! Great!
Shisa nyama A braai, often outside a butcher shop
Shot left A nearby stop in taxi-commuter lingo
Skyf A cigarette
Spaza shop An informal convenience store
Tekkies/Takkies Athletic shoes
Tokoloshe A mischievous evil spirit
Tsotsi Someone up to no good
Walkie talkie Boiled, seasoned and grilled chicken feet
Yebo Yes (in Zulu)
63
CITY
CENTRE
MAP
RENAMED STREETS
In March 2015 a number of city
streets were renamed. Street signage
is still being updated. These streets
are: Bree St = Lilian Ngoyi St, Jeppe
St = Rahima Moosa St, Noord St =
Sophie de Bruyn St, President St =
Helen Joseph St, Sauer St = Pixley ka
Isaka Seme St.
SANDTON MAP

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Maps Events Restaurants Cafs Nightlife Sightseeing Shopping Hotels

September 2015 - January 2016

A guide to local luxury

What to eat, drink and do at a glance

Find your way around

Joburg with teens

Keep them happy for up to three days

Arriving & getting around

Hillbrow from the sky (see p. 49)

Planes, trains and automobiles

All City Centre addresses listed in the guide are

Rooms to suit all budgets

Emerging art capital

Summer bars, rooftop parties and craft beers

Party with pride and much more

How to spend your money

Sport & outdoors

Deep breathing and great escapes

EDITORS NOTE In Your Pocket City Guides publishes

Print and online advertising

The cover image is titled Frida Kahlo

4 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

We have been busy these past couple of

ARQUE CHAMPAGNE CRESCENT

With over 300 stores, theres always something for you

Take a stroll down 11th Street,

Choose from more

Rub shoulders with

Discover Sandtons historic side at

Once the secret

6 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

Follow the citys students down to

RetroFest, Nirox Sculpture Park

FESTIVALS AND FAIRS

24.09 THURSDAY 26.09 SATURDAY

Major League Gardens. Hip hop and

Pharrell Williams. TicketPro Dome,

Ekurhuleni Spring Fiesta. Open-air

New soul, Afropop and hip hop.

Little Dragon. Venue to be announced,

Beethovens Missa Solemnis. Classical

Around the World in 80 Minutes with

Carols by Candlelight ft. Bala

Christmas with conductor Richard

Rodriguez. TicketPro Dome, www.

Park Acoustics. Open-air music festival

Sophiatown Jazz Encounters. Intimate

The Warm Up Jozi. House-music

The Soil, Jozi Summershine Festival

2.10 FRIDAY 4.10 SUNDAY

1.12 TUESDAY 6.12 SUNDAY

11.11 WEDNESDAY 13.11 FRIDAY

South Africans find humour in even the most frustrating

September 2015 January 2016

A Year With Frog And Toad. National

Once Upon A Time... Peoples Theatre,

Hair Spray Junior. National Childrens

Janice Honeymans Sleeping Beauty.

10 Johannesburg In Your Pocket

Dinner theatre at Madam Zingara, Montecasino

THEATRE AND DANCE

September 2015 January 2016

15.01.2016 FRIDAY 13.03.2016 SUNDAY