MEDIA FEATURE

SAME CONCEPT, DIFFERENT EXPERIENCES -

IBAN LONGHOUSES IN BATANG AI

Though both carry the concept of an Iban longhouse, the Hilton

Batang Ai Longhouse Resort and the Mengkak Longhouse offer
very different experiences. DARYL YEP finds out.

Sarawakian’s rich cultures and customs, unique traditional rituals, dances, foods, and costumes are
among the things that continue to intrigue and fascinate visitors and researchers from around the
world. Their warm hospitality and simple ways of life are also some of the traits that many visitors
find endearing.
I guess, the fascination for this exotic destination also stems from interesting stories about
the headhunters of Borneo. Images from National Geographic or Discovery Channel showing small
dark people with tattooed bodies donning fancy headdresses of exotic bird feathers must have also
fuelled the curiosity of our foreign visitors.

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 If nature and multi-ethnic
cultural experiences are your cup of tea,
then Sarawak has plenty of them to
fascinate you.
For someone who at times
finds nature overrated and is not
particularly enthusiastic about ethnic
cultures, I still welcome a trip to
explore Sarawak again with pleasure
and excitement. Perhaps, it was due to
the chance to check out Hilton’s only
jungle property, the Hilton Batang Ai
Longhouse Resort.
Our main destination this time
was Batang Ai, to visit the Iban
community at the Mengkak Longhouse
located at the mouth of Sungai
Engkari.
The Ibans form the largest
percentage of Sarawak’s population. In
days of yore, they were reputedly the
most formidable headhunters on the
island of Borneo. Ibans today are
friendly and hospitable. They are
renowned for their traditional weavings
such as the Pua Kumbu, woodcarvings,
beadworks and silver craftings.
Longhouses are built on stilts
about a metre above the ground. As the
name suggests, Borneo longhouses are
long and narrow consisting of several
TOP: View of the Mengkak Longhouse from afar
BOTTOM: The four-seater boat that visitors use to reach the rooms. Each family occupies a room.
longhouses from the Hilton Batang Ai Longhouse Resort One longhouse typically accommodates
between 20 and 50 families.
There’s a large communal living space, between the balcony and bedrooms, known as the
ruai, running down one side, and separate living quarters for each family along the other side. The
ruai is the place where the longhouse folks gather for an evening chat or carry out activities like
making handicrafts and farming apparatus.

A TASTE OF IBAN HOSPITALITY AT THE MENGKAK LONGHOUSE

Upon reaching the longhouse, we spotted three sarong-clad Iban ladies doing their laundry
and bathing in the lake, which is a normal routine for the longhouse folks.
Ah, I wished I could jump into the inviting cool lake to join them.
No, don’t get me wrong.
It was intensely hot that day and I was drenched in sweat, especially after travelling under the
blazing sun for close to an hour. To reach the Mengkak Longhouse, we had to endure a 45-minute
ride in a four-seater motorised longboat from the Hilton Batang Ai Longhouse Resort.

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 Still, I was extremely thankful that it didn’t rain as I wasn’t prepared for that, even though I
have read stories of visitors getting caught in the rain during the boat journey. Although some guides
provide ponchos, there’s no harm bringing one in case they don’t. Disposable ones would be just
great. Cameras and mobile phones should be kept inside a waterproof bag.
Though the boat ride makes you two tones darker, the journey to the longhouse is definitely
worthwhile. Travelling in the long wooden boat itself is both terrifying and exciting as the boat is so
narrow that even the slightest movement would make it sway. We were like floating and gliding
down the man-made Batang Ai Lake, with water just inches away.
It was awesome.

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT:

1) The house chief, Burau Anak Buba
2) Intricate weaving for sale at the Mengkak Longhouse
3) An Iban man performing cultural dance for visitors

Upon entering the Mengkak Longhouse, we were

surprised that the atmosphere inside was so much cooler
compared to outside. It was probably due to the wooden
floor boards, tree-bark wall and rattan mat ceiling that kept
the heat out.
It was apparent that the longhouse folks were used to
having tourists around judging from the many intricate
handicrafts being offered on sale such as ornamental jewellery
and wooden sculptures. It’s hard to resist getting one as
souvenir. I had my heart set on the unique weaving but
somehow managed to refrain myself from getting it knowing
very well that nothing else would fit into my small suitcase
anymore.

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 Our tour guide, Bob Zakaria, led us to
the middle of the longhouse and signalled us to
sit on the floor. Before we sat, we were
introduced to the house chief, Burau Anak
Buba, whose affectionate smile instantly made
us feel welcome.
While the longhouse folks were
preparing the welcome drink, which was the
infamous tuak or rice wine, and changing into
their traditional costumes to perform the
traditional Iban dance, Bob explained more
about the Iban’s customs and values. He taught
us the right way to graciously refuse the offering dry food, especially the individually-wrapped
of tuak as some
of our Muslims
friends were
likely to do so.
We were also
informed that
there were over
20 families
living there.
When
the tuak was
finally served, I
thought I
would reject it
too as I’m not
One for the album!
much of a
drinker. But
after one sip, I did not just finish mine but also
those who had rejected theirs. It was a bit sweet;
like a fruity alcoholic drink. Apparently, the taste some ladies from our group had already slipped
of the tuak is slightly different in every
longhouse. Some, according to friends, have a
very strong smell that is quite unbearable.
The traditional dance followed right
after. During the final dance, visitors were
invited to join in. It was then that we realised
that steps that looked simple can turn out to be
quite a struggle for some of us.
The real fun for the longhouse folks
started after all the dances finished. It was time
to distribute the goodies that we had brought
for them. Visitors to the Mengkak Longhouse or
any longhouse for that matter are encouraged to
buy some tidbits and goodies for the folks. We
bought the stuffs at Serian during our lunch
stop. It’s a simple gesture that not only makes
the longhouse folks happy with our visits but
also help to stimulate the economy of the small
town.
“Do not buy sweets,” Bob had reminded
us earlier in Serian. “God knows how far the
nearest dentist is, if there’s ever one nearby.” he
explained.
Instead, we bought them biscuits and
ones so they
could be shared
and distributed
among the 20
families in the
longhouse, as well
as exercise books
and stationery for
the school-going
children. These
stuffs might be
available just a
stone’s throw
away from our
house but for the
longhouse folks, it
takes a few hours
of travelling in order to get them.
While the gifts were being distributed,
into the Iban traditional costumes, parading up
and down the longhouse and snapping photos
of one another in various poses. Others were
busy purchasing the tuak to be brought back
home for friends and relatives to try.
In a nutshell, everyone had an enjoyable
time there. When the time came to say goodbye,
some were reluctant to leave, and even
suggested spending a night at the longhouse
next time.

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AN IBAN LUNCH
We had to leave as Bob had planned a traditional Iban lunch for us.
The problem is, it was not even cooked yet. And I was already starving.
Fortunately, our lunch venue was merely a 10-minute boat ride from the longhouse, at a
place in Sungai Abok, known as Padang by the locals.
Upon reaching Padang, Bob and two other boatmen quickly unloaded the cooking utensils
and food to the open-air ‘kitchen’ while we headed to a shed, and some to the toilet. The facilities
were very basic and actually look rather dilapidated. Perhaps, it was to give visitors the back-to-
nature feel. They were built specifically to offer lunch to tourists who visit the Iban longhouse.

CLOCKWISE FROM TOP LEFT:

1) Instead of plate, visitors use big, broad leaves
to eat
2) Grilled tilapia
3) Photographers taking a few shots of the food

After about 40 minutes, lunch was finally

ready. Any longer, I would have passed out.
One by one the dishes were placed on a
tall table in the shed. Bob surprised us with
various traditional dishes.
It was truly a back to nature type of
lunch as there were no plates nor forks and
spoons. Instead we were given big, broad leaves
which according to Bob, can only be found in Borneo.
The simple dishes cooked with simple ingredients surprisingly had rich flavour. The manok
pansoh (chicken in bamboo) was quite tasty. And so was the grilled tilapia that went well with the
bamboo rice. Menu of the day also included grilled eggplant and pumpkin. Then again, I believed
they scored a few more points due to our hunger.
The simple lunch was completed with some sweet Sarikei pineapples as dessert.
Although I have been told that multi-tasking is a norm for many tour guides in Sarawak, Bob
really amazed me with his skills. Not only a good storyteller and guide, I must say he also makes a
decent chef.
After having a scrumptious meal, it’s time to hit the road or lake again, to return to the
Hilton Batang Ai Longhouse Resort.

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A RESORT ON A LAKE
TOP: The resort is surrounded by pristine rainforest
MIDDLE: Relax at the poolside
BOTTOM: Buffet dinner at Nanga Mepi restaurant
Once we got to the dock of the
resort, I can’t wait to explore this unique
award-winning establishment. It’s unlike
any hotel that I or anyone, as a matter of
fact, has stayed before as it is built in the
style of a traditional Borneo longhouse
amidst pristine rainforest.
Being soaked in sweat, I wanted
to refresh first, though the journey to my
room from the jetty seemed to take
forever.
Besides climbing about 170 steps
to reach the reception hall, I had to pass
by a few blocks of longhouse. After all, it
isn’t called a longhouse for nothing. With
altogether 11 longhouse blocks, I was
really glad that my room wasn’t in the last
block.
I believed most people would
want to have a room in the block nearest
to the reception hall to avoid the long
walk back to their room, particularly at
night. Besides, it is like the heart of the
resort where most facilities are located
there including the Nanga Mepi
restaurant and Wong Irup bar/lounge,
souvenir shop, karaoke room, as well as
the swimming pool.
Nestled on a 20-hectare shore of
Batang Ai Lake in the district of Lubok
Antu, the 3-star Hilton Batang Ai
Longhouse Resort is 275km from
Kuching city. It takes about three to four
hours by car, passing through small
towns like Serian and Lachau.
The Hilton Batang Ai Longhouse
Resort is only accessible through the
reservoir from a jetty built next to the
Batang Ai Hydroelectric Dam. It is
merely a 20-minute trip to reach the
resort.
Guests have a choice of staying in
a native Borneo timber room or step up
to a two-storey suite for more space and
comfort.
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 The most popular activities are the visit to Iban longhouses and the excursion to the Batang
Ai National Park which is a two-hour boat ride away. Nature-loving Europeans are particularly fond
of such excursions.
The resort also offers a host of activities such as guided walks to enjoy the sunrise across the
lake, traditional blow-pipe hunting demonstrations by local tribes and fishing excursions on the lake
or upriver. The range of walking trails that surround the resort itself also offers a rainforest
experience on the doorstep.
It is no doubt that residents in
the surrounding area of the Hilton
Batang Ai Longhouse Resort has greatly
benefited from the economic spin-offs
brought about by the hospitality industry.
By bringing foreign tourists to the Iban
longhouses and the Batang Ai National
Park, the resort has also played a part in
promoting culture, nature and adventure.
Visitors to the resort normally
purchase packaged tour which includes
accommodation, transfer and excursions,
since it is the only resort there.
The long ‘ruai’ In brief, it is like a more luxurious
version of the traditional Iban longhouse.
However, though built with a similar
concept, the emptiness of the ruai of the Hilton Batang Ai Longhouse Resort was starkly different
from the traditional Iban longhouse which was cosy and full of activities. Most of the guests at the
resort had gone out to explore the lake and get a taste of the real Iban longhouse instead.
In fact, I must say the long vacant gallery was rather creepy. This feeling was intensified
during stormy weather last night. I can’t help thinking that the torrential rain and high winds made
the ruai the perfect setting for another horror flick.

ARE YOU GAME FOR A LONGHOUSE EXPERIENCE?

When we were at the Mengkak Iban longhouse, Bob asked some of the members of the
media whether their readers would enjoy this kind of experience. I guessed what he wanted to say
was that it might not be everyone’s cup of tea.
I totally agree.
But if you think you are game for it, you should go with an open mind and a sense of
adventure to fully enjoy the experience.
Quoting famous American author, James A. Michener: "If you reject the food, ignore the
customs, fear the religion and avoid the people, you might better stay home. You are like a pebble
thrown into water; you become wet on the surface, but you are never a part of the water."

Note: Images on page 1 & 6 are by courtesy of the Hilton Batang Ai Longhouse Resort.

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SARAWAK – BACKGROUND:
Situated on the north-western coast of Borneo, Sarawak, also known as land of the hornbills, shares its
boundaries with Kalimantan in the south and Brunei and Sabah in the north. It is Malaysia’s largest state,
covering an area of 124,450 sq km. It is divided into eleven Divisions with the city of Kuching as its capital.

Sarawak is best known for its natural and cultural wonders. The hornbill, a protected bird, is the state
emblem. Two-thirds of its land is rainforest and its population of about 1.8 million is made up of 27 ethnic
groups, which include the Iban, Chinese, Malay, Bidayuh, Melanau and Orang Ulu.

Kuching boasts many international-class hotels and resorts such as Hilton Kuching, Merdeka Palace Hotel &
Suites, Damai Puri Resort & Spa, Riverside Majestic Hotel and Borneo Highlands Resort.

CONTACTS:
ADDRESS : Hilton Batang Ai Longhouse Resort
c/o Hilton Kuching
Jalan Tunku Abdul Rahman
PO Box 2396, 93748 Sarawak
EAST MALAYSIA
TELEPHONE : Hilton Kuching : +60 (0)82 248200
Resort : +60 (0)83 584388

FAX : Hilton Kuching : +60 (0)82 428984

Resort : +60 (0)83 584399
E-MAIL : sales_kuching@hilton.com
WEBSITE : www.hilton.com

For reservations and general enquiries, please contact the Hilton Batang Ai Longhouse Resort’s reservation
desk at Hilton Kuching, telephone, +60 (0)82 248200, or fax +60 (0)82 428984.

TOURISM MALAYSIA SARAWAK

Parcel 297-2-1, Level 2, Riverbank Suites,
Jalan Tunku Abdul Rahman,
93100 Kuching, Sarawak.
Tel: (6) 082 – 246 575 / 246 775
Fax: (6) 082 – 246 442
Email: mtpbkch@tourism.gov.my
Website: www.tourismmalaysia.gov.my

SARAWAK TOURISM BOARD

6th & 7th Floor, Yayasan Sarawak Building,
Jalan Masjid, 93400 Kuching, Sarawak.
Tel: (6) 082 – 423 600
Fax: (6) 082 – 416 700
Email: stb@sarawaktourism.com
Website: www.sarawaktourism.com
…
Issued by:
Communications & Publicity Division, Tourism Malaysia
Date: 09 September 2009
Daryl Yep – Tel: 03-2615 8188; Email – yyldaryl@tourism.gov.my