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COURSE CODE: PHR 704

Cosmetology: Lecture Synopsis

CREDIT 3

Introduction
A cosmetic product is defined as a substance or preparation intended for placement in
contact with any external part of the human body' (this includes the mouth and teeth). We use
cosmetics to cleanse, perfume, protect and change the appearance of our bodies or to alter its
odors. Products that claim to modify a bodily process or prevent, diagnose, cure or alleviate
any disease, ailment or defect are called therapeutics
Products classified as Cosmetics

Lips makeup-lipstick, lip gloss, lip pencil, lip balm, lip plumper, lip conditioner, lip

boosters
Eye makeup-eyebrow pencil, eye liner, eyebrow enhancer, mascara, eye shadow

Face makeup-foundation, powder, concealer, blush

Soap, cleanser, toner, shampoo, conditioner

Toothpaste, mouthwash

Deodorant

Products classified as therapeutics

antiperspirant

anti-dandruff shampoo

Household products

Detergents

General Use of Cosmetics


Foundation, used to smooth out the face and cover spots or uneven skin coloration.
Usually a liquid, cream, or powder.
Powder, used to set the foundation, giving a matte finish, and also to conceal small flaws
or blemishes.
Rouge, blush or blusher, cheek coloring used to bring out the color in the cheeks and
make the cheekbones appear more defined. This comes in powder, cream, and liquid
forms.
Bronzer, used to give skin a bit of color by adding a golden or bronze glow.
Mascara is used to darken, lengthen, and thicken the eyelashes. It is available in natural
colors such as brown and black, but also comes in bolder colors such as blue, pink, or
purple. There are many different formulas, including waterproof for those of us prone to
allergies or sudden tears.
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Eye liner, eye shadow, eye shimmer, and glitter eye pencils as well as different color
pencils used to color and emphasize the eyelids (larger eyes give a more youthful
appearance).
Eyebrow pencils, creams, waxes, gels and powders are used to color and define the
brows.
Nail polish, used to color the fingernails and toenails.
Concealer, Makeup used to cover any imperfections of the skin.
Also included in the general category of cosmetics are skin care products. These include
creams and lotions to moisturize the face and body, sunscreens to protect the skin from
damaging UV radiation, and treatment products to repair or hide skin imperfections (acne,
wrinkles, dark circles under eyes, etc.). Cosmetics can also be described by the form of the
product, as well as the area for application. Cosmetics can be liquid or cream emulsions;
powders, both pressed and loose; dispersions; and anhydrous creams or sticks.
Chapter 1: The Skin Creams
The Skin
Human skin is made up of 3
main layers:
1. Epidermis
2. Dermis
3. Subcutaneous layer
Within these layers of skin
exists many types of cells and
structures, each playing a vital role in the complex physiology of skin. Some of the vital
functions of skin include:

Protecting the body from the environment, particularly the sun

Protecting the body from infection

Protection of underlying organs and tissues from mechanical damage

Excretion of excess salts, water and urea from the body

Temperature regulation

Beauty and attractiveness to opposite sex

Protection against excessive loss of water from the body by evaporation

Manufacturing and storage of nutrients

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Detection of stimuli such as temperature, pain and touch and the relay of this
information to the nervous system

Now let us examine each part of the human skin in more detail.
A. EPIDERMIS
The epidermis is the outermost layer of the skin. It is primarily made up of cells called
Keratinocytes, which are stacked on top of each other, forming several sub-layers. Other cells
found in the epidermis are Melanocytes and Dendritic cells.
Keratinocytes
The keratinocytes develop from the bottom of the epidermis and rise to the top, where they
are shed from the surface as dead cells. The epidermis is therefore constantly renewing itself,
the live cells changing into dead, hard, flattened cells.
Melanocytes
These cells produce a dark pigment called melanin, which contributes to skin color and
provides UV protection. They are located at the bottom of the epidermis. These are the cells
than can turn into melanoma.
Dendritic (or Langerhans) cells
These cells are involved in the immune system of the skin. They swallow foreign material
that invades the epidermis and migrate out of the skin to stimulate an immune response.
Basal cells
These small cells are found at the bottom of the epidermis. It was believed that basal cell
cancer is derived from these cells but basal cell cancers may actually arise from nondifferentiated cells from the basal cell layer.
B. DERMIS
The dermis consists mostly of connective tissue (structural tissue) and is much thicker than
the epidermis. It is responsible for the skin's strength and mechanical resistance and is also
involved in the regulation of the body temperature. The dermis also contains sense organs for
touch, pressure, pain and temperature (Free nerve endings), as well as blood vessels, nerve
fibers, sebaceous (oil) glands, sweat glands, and hair follicles. The thickness of this layer can
vary significantly in different parts of the body.
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Blood Vessels
The dermis has a network of tiny conduits (also called capillaries) through which blood
circulates. The blood vessels supply the skin with fresh blood, which contains nutrients and
oxygen, and carry away waste products.
Free Nerve Endings
Free nerve endings are sensitive to pain, temperature changes and itchiness.
Nerve Fibers
Nerve fibers forward information such as pain and pressure to the spinal cord and the brain.
Sebaceous Glands
Sebaceous or oil glands are small organs that secrete sebum. This oily substance is a natural
moisturizer that conditions the hair and skin. Sebaceous glands are found all over the body,
but they are more numerous in the scalp area and around the forehead, chin, cheeks and nose.
These glands play a major role in the development of acne.
Sweat Glands
These are sweat-producing structures consisting of a coiled body that leads into a duct
opening at the skin surface. They are involved in temperature regulation as they help cool the
skin by sweating.
Hair Follicles
Hair follicles are canals of epidermis extending downward into the dermis and specialized to
produce hair. Hair follicles are found all over the body except on the palms of the hands and
soles of the feet.
C. SUBCUTANEOUS LAYER
The subcutaneous layer below the dermis consists of loose network of connective tissue and
fat. It acts as a protective cushion and helps to insulate the body by monitoring heat gain and
heat loss. The thickness of this layer can vary significantly in individuals and in different
parts of the body.
Inflammatory and allergic Responses (Skin Sensitization)
Skin Rash: A rash can be the result of a moderate condition, disorder or disease, such as
an allergy, chicken pox, hives or a parasitic infection of the skin called scabies. A rash can
also occur in some serious, even life-threatening conditions, such as in meningitis or severe
allergic reactions that include anaphylaxis and allergic purpura.
Urticaria (Hives): Raised, itchy areas of skin that are usually a sign of an allergic reaction.
Hives can be rounded or flat-topped but are always elevated above the surrounding skin. The
skin lesions of urticarial disease are caused by an inflammatory reaction (the release
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of histamine and other mediators of inflammation (cytokines) from cells in the skin) in the
skin, causing leakage of capillaries in the dermis, and resulting in an edema which persists
until the interstitial fluid is absorbed into the surrounding cells. This process can be the result
of an allergic or non-allergic reaction, differing in the eliciting mechanism of histamine
release.
Stinging: A transient sensation distinct from irritation and allergy, but may be considered to
be an irritability of sensory nerve endings.
Contact dermatitis (Atopic Eczema): Atopic dermatitis is due to a hypersensitivity
reaction (similar to an allergy) in the skin, which leads to long-term swelling and redness
(inflammation) of the skin. People with atopic dermatitis may lack certain proteins in the
skin, which leads to greater sensitivity. They often have asthma or seasonal allergies. There is
often a family history of allergic conditions such as asthma, hay fever, or eczema. The
following can make atopic dermatitis symptoms worse: Allergies to pollen, mold, dust mites,
or animals; Cold and dry air in the winter; Colds or the flu; Contact with irritants and
chemicals; Contact with rough materials, such as wool; Dry skin; Emotions and stress;
Exposure to too much water, such as taking too many baths or showers and swimming too
often; Feeling too hot or too cold, as well as sudden temperature changes; Fragrances or dyes
added to skin lotions or soaps.
Phototoxic Dermatitis: Phototoxic Dermatitis is also called 'sun poisoning' as it generally
occurs due to the reaction of skin to the ultraviolet rays of sun. Phototoxic dermatitis leads to
hyper pigmentation of that portion of the skin that is more exposed to the sun. Phototoxic
Dermatitis may also result from certain chemicals like coal tar, perfumes, plants, drugs, etc
that contain photosynthesizing substances. Other reasons certain vitamin shortages, sunscreen
lotions etc.
Photoallergic Dermatitis: Photoallergic Dermatitis or drug-induced photosensitivity is also
commonly known as a sun rash. The skin condition Photoallergic Dermatitis typically
appears in the form of a series of small red blisters. These blisters usually start off being
small, however, they can eventually become quite large. The principal cause of Photoallergic
Dermatitis is repeated exposure to the sun or ultraviolet light. The combination of this
exposure along with allergens such as sun block ingredients, fragrances and some medicines
can cause the outbreak of Photoallergic Dermatitis. Drug-induced photosensitivity can occur
when a person develops a rash following exposure to the sun while at the same time they are
taking a particular type of drugs including but not limited to, chlorpromazine, promethazine,
some diuretics, antibiotics and various pain killers.
Common Skin Disorders
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Freckles: Freckles are flat, tanned circular spots that typically are the size of the head of a
common nail. The spots are multiple and may develop randomly on the skin, especially after
repeated exposure to sunlight. These are particularly common in people of fair complexion on
upper-body skin areas like the cheeks, nose, arms, and upper shoulders.
Vitiligo: Incurable pigmentation disorder associated with autoimmune diseases (Addisons
disease, pernicious anemia, and hyperthyroidism). Vitiligo most often affects the face, elbows
and knees, hands and feet, and genitals. It affects both sides of the body equally. It is more
noticeable in darker-skinned people because of the contrast of white patches against dark
skin.
Acne Vulgaris: Acne is a skin condition that causes pimples or "zits." This includes
whiteheads, blackheads, and red, inflammed patches of skin (such as cysts). Acne tends to
run in families. It may be triggered by Hormonal changes related to puberty, menstrual
periods, pregnancy, birth control pills, or stress; Greasy or oily cosmetic and hair products;
Certain drugs (such as steroids, testosterone, estrogen, and phenytoin); High levels of
humidity and sweating. The bacteria Corynebacterium acnes and Staphylococcus epidermidis
are almost always present in pustular contents.
Miliaria: The name is given to several disorders in which sweat ducts become obstructed.
The most common is Miliaria ruba or prickly heat. It is a skin disease marked by small and
itchy rashes. Miliaria is a common ailment in hot and humid conditions, such as in the tropics
and during the summer season. It is especially common in children and infants due to their
underdeveloped sweat glands. Miliaria occurs when the sweat gland ducts get plugged due to
dead skin cells or bacteria such as Staphylococcus epidermidis, a common bacterium that
occurs on the skin which is also associated with acne. The trapped sweat leads to irritation
(prickling), itching and to a rash of very small blisters, usually in a localized area of the skin.
Psoriasis: Psoriasis is a common skin condition that causes skin redness and irritation. Most
people with psoriasis have thick, red skin with flaky, silver-white patches called scales. The
following may trigger an attack of psoriasis or make the condition more difficult to treat:
Bacteria or viral infections, including strep throat and upper respiratory infections; Dry air or
dry skin; Injury to the skin, including cuts, burns, and insect bites; Some medicines, including
anti-malaria drugs, beta-blockers, and lithium; Stress; Too little sunlight or too much sunlight
(sunburn).
Dandruff: Seborrheic dermatitis is a common, inflammatory skin condition that
causes flaky, white to yellowish scales to form on oily areas such as the scalp or inside the
ear. It can occur with or without reddened skin. Seborrheic dermatitis is thought to be due to a
combination of an over production of skin oil and irritation from yeast called Pityrosprum
ovale and Pityrosporum orbiculare. Dandruff has been well treated with 2% salicylic acid
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ointments, shampoos containing Se2S or ZPTO and appears to work by reducing epidermal
turnover.
Table: Cosmetic-Related Dermatitis Caused by Direct Application of the Allergen
Area of dermatitis
Face in general

Cosmetics that may contain allergens


Facial skincare products (creams, lotions, masks), sunscreen products,
makeup (foundations, blushes, powders), cleansers (lotions, emulsions),

Forehead
Eyebrows
Upper eyelids
Lower eyelids
Nostrils
Lips, mouth, and

and cosmetic appliances (sponges), perfumed products (after-shave lotion)


Hair care products (dyes, shampoos)
Eyebrow pencil, depilatory tweezers
Eye makeup (eye shadow, eye pencils, mascara), eyelash curlers
Eye makeup
Perfumed handkerchiefs
Lipstick, lip pencils, dental products (toothpaste, mouthwash), depilatories

perioral area
Neck and

Perfumes, toilet waters, hair care products

retroauricular area
Head

Haircare products (hair dyes, permanent-wave solutions,


bleaches, shampoo ingredients), cosmetic appliances (metal

Ears
Trunk/upper chest,

combs, hairpins)
Hair-care products, perfume
Body-care products, sunscreens and self-tanning products, cleansers,

arms, wrists (elbow

depilatories

flexures)
Axillae
Anogenital areas
Hands

Deodorants, antiperspirants, depilatories


Deodorants, moist toilet paper, perfumed pads, depilatories
Hand-care products, barrier creams, all cosmetic products that come in

Feet

contact with the hands


Foot-care products, antiperspirants

The Skin Creams


Introduction
A cream is a topical preparation usually for application to the skin. Creams may be
considered pharmaceutical products as even cosmetic creams are based on techniques
developed by pharmacy and unmediated creams are highly used in a variety of skin
conditions (dermatoses). Creams are semi-solid emulsions that are mixtures of oil and water.
Although it may be equally well applied to non-aqueous products such as wax-solvent based
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mascaras, liquid eye shadows and ointments. If an emulsion is sufficiently low viscosity to be
pourable (flow under influence of gravity alone) is referred to as lotion.
Types of Skin Creams
They are divided into two types: oil-in-water (O/W) creams which are composed of small
droplets of oil dispersed in a continuous phase, and water-in-oil (W/O) creams which are
composed of small droplets of water dispersed in a continuous oily phase. Oil-in-water
creams are more comfortable and cosmetically acceptable as they are less greasy and more
easily washed off using water. Water-in-oil creams are more difficult to handle but many
drugs which are incorporated into creams are hydrophobic and will be released more readily
from a water-in-oil cream than an oil-in-water cream. Water-in-oil creams are also more
moisturizing as they provide an oily barrier which reduces water loss from the stratum
corneum, the outermost layer of the skin.
Table: Characteristics of Skin Creams
Functional
Cleansing Creams

Physicochemical
Medium to High oil content

Subjective
Oily

Cold Creams

O/W or W/O

Difficult to Rub in

Massage Creams

Low Slip Point oil phase

May be stiff and rich

Night Creams

Neutral pH

Also popular as lotions

May

contain

surfactant

that

Moisturizing Creams

improve penetration
Low oil content

Easily spreadable and Rub in

Foundation Creams

Usually O/W

quality

Vanishing Creams

Low slip-point oil phase

Available as creams and lotions

Neutral to slightly acidic pH


May contain emollients & special
Functional
Hand & Body

moisturizing ingredients
Physicochemical
Low to medium oil content

Subjective
Easily spreadable but do not Rub

Protective

Usually O/W

in with the ease of vanishing

Medium slip point oil phase

creams

Slightly alkaline or acidic pH


May containing protective factors, Very popular in lotion form
All Purpose Creams

especially silicon and lanolin


Medium oil content

Very often slightly oily but should

O/W or W/O

be easy to spread

Cleansing Creams
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The key ingredients in cleansing creams, which are also known as cold creams, are usually
petrolatum, mineral oil, waxes and water. Many cleansing creams also contain emulsifiers,
which prevent the ingredients of the cream from separating into layers. It can moisturize skin
and remove dirt, sweat, make-up at the same time. The layers of make-up, dust and sweat
remain as a layer on the face and prevent the skin from breathing this may eventually lead to
wrinkles and dullness. With their mild and effective action, cleansing creams now days have
become a beneficial approach to healthy skin care.
Formulation: Cleansing Creams
Ingredient
Stearic Acid
Mineral Oil
Petrolatum
Cetostearyl Alcohol
Isopropyl Myristate
Sorbitan Monolaureate
Glycerin
Na-Lauryl SO4
Triethanolamine
Polyoxyethylene Sorbitan Mono Laurate
Water
Lanolin
Coco-Na Isothionate
Perfume, Preservative

Formulation 1 (%)
10
5
2
1.5
3
2
6.5
5
1.5
2
61.5
q.s.

Formulation 2 (%)
12.5
2
5
68.5
0.4
12
q.s.

Night and Massage Cream


Night and massage creams are designed to be left on the skin for several hours or to remain
mobile on the skin even after vigorous rubbing. Therefore, they are composed with a
substantial oil phase which will spread easily without disappearing but also without rubbing
off on to clothing or bed linen in use. The occlusive layer prevents epidermal moisture loss
and also gives lubrication. Massage has a valuable part to play in skin care since it is well
known that vigorous rubbing of the skin prevents dead surface cells and keeps epidermal
blood supply in good condition.
Vitamins used in skin Creams
Pyridoxine, Pantothenic acid and its precursors panthenol, pantethine, pangamic acid have
been quoted as having beneficial effects on to akin, hair preparations but no proof that they
can penetrate skin surface. Same with ascorbic acid and iso-ascorbic acid added to some
toiletries. Although effective while orally taken, still Vit A and D derivatives used and
claimed to be synergistic.

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Moisturizer
Moisturizers, among all other skin creams, most widely used. If water is lost more rapidly
from stratum corneum than it is received from the lower layer of the epidermis. The skin
becomes dehydrated and loses its flexibility. Water alone will not restore the flexibility. There
are two basic types of dry skin. The first is due to prolonged exposure to low humidity and air
movement. The second is due to ageing related physicochemical changes. There are 3
approaches to restore water on to the skin-occlusion, humectancy and restoration of deficient
materials. Occlusion (by lanolin, petroleum, silicones, mineral and vegetable oil) prevent
water loss from healthy normal skin causing the stratum corneum to be more hydrated,
making it softer and supple. Humectants (Glycerol, Ethylene Glycol, PG, sorbitol alone or in
admixture at various levels) attract water from atmosphere, so supplementing the skin water
content. The third and most valuable approach to miniaturization to supplementing NMF
from the skin those are removed by polar solvents and detergent solutions.
Emollients used in skin creams
Emollients impart smoothness and bring well-being to the skin. They may also cause
flattening of the skin surface, pluming of each corneocyte, and general smoothing and
diminishing of facial lines. Most popular water soluble emollients are glycerin, sorbitol, PG
and various ethoxylated derivatives of lipids. Oil soluble emollients are hydrocarbon oils and
waxes, silicon oils, vegetable oils, fats, alkyl esters and fatty acids. PG is widely used as
efficient preservatives while used in more than 8%. Lanolin is also most desirable but found
to be sensitizer like PG.
Caution: Some emollients, particular those containing white soft paraffin or petroleum jelly
can catch fire if used near a naked flame. Never apply emollients to your child by candlelight,
near an open fire or while smoking a cigarette. Once the emollients have been applied to
childs skin, he or she should also avoid naked flames, such as candles or open fires. Store the
emollients in a cool, dry place away from any naked flames or heat sources such as radiators.
The moisturizing effect of emollients can make the bath or shower tray very slippery. One
should use a nonslip bath mat and clean it and the bath thoroughly after each use.
Formulation: Moisturizer
No.
1
2
3
4
5
6

Ingredient
Isopropyl Linoleate
Glyceryl Stearate
Diisopropyl adipate
Myristyle myristate
PEG 40 Stearate
Cetyl alcohol

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%
2
3
2
1
1
1.5

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7
8
9
10
11
12

Ceteareath-20
Quaternium-22
Hydroxyethyl cellulose (2% aq)
PG
Water
Prfume, preservative

0.5
2
25
3
59
q.s.

Vanishing and Foundation Cream


In order to achieve rapid Rub in effect, vanishing creams are composed of emollient esters
in oil phase which leave little apparent film over skin. For this reason a low percentage oil
phase usually chosen. Foundation creams possess many of the same properties of vanishing
creams. Foundation cream comes in several forms: the original cream, a lighter mousse
version, a heavier stick version, and a "pancake" version, a powder that turns creamy after
spraying it with water. There's also a relatively new hybrid called cream to powder
foundation (also called dual-finish foundation), which looks like a powder and applies like a
cream if it is wet, and then dries to a powder finish.
Formulation: Typical Simple Vanishing Cream
Ingredients
Stearic acid
KOH
Glycerin
Water
Perfume. Preservative

(%)
15
0.7
8
76.3
q.s.

Hand and Body Creams (All Purpose Creams)


Preparations should comply following requirements
a. As a foundation cream for general use it must provide a satisfactory foundation base for
make-up without being too greasy.
b. As a cleansing cream it should be liquefy quickly, be of an oily nature but should be free
from Drag. It should not be readily absorbed by the skin.
c. As a hand cream it should be emollient yet not leave a greasy or sticky film on the skin.
d. As a protective and emollient cream it should leave a continuous but non-occlusive oil
film on the skin.
Utility: There appears to be a market for all purpose cream because

Unsophisticated user who are unwilling to pay money therefore buys one cream to do as
much as possible

Slightly more sophisticated user who buys a specialty cream for one particular function
and uses it as a specialty cream

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User who finds the cream ideally suited to their particular skin

The user who particularly fragments their skin creams but resorts to an all-purpose cream
when travelling or on holiday

For general family use and protection against the elements.

Further Reading
1. Advantage and peculiarity of Beeswax-Borax system.
2. Justification of formulation ingredients.
3. Formulation of Massage cream, all-purpose cream
4. Benefits of foundation creams

Chapter 2. Baby Products


Introduction
The skin of the infant and the adult differs both histological and physiologically in many
respects It is less hairy, thinner and less cornified in infants There is tendency towards peeling
and flaking of skin during first 3 weeks after birth Sebaceous glands are present in the
newborn and start functioning early. Sebaceous glands are present in the newborn and start
functioning early Being comparatively thin , skin of infant is expected to be more permeable
to topical agents applied They are mainly concerned with keeping the baby clear and
comfortable.
Common Baby Skin Problems
A. Diaper Rash
A diaper rash is a skin problem that develops in the area beneath an infant's diaper. Diaper
rashes are common in babies between 4 and 15 months old. Diaper rashes caused by infection
with a yeast or fungus called Candida. Candida grows best in warm, moist places, such as
under a diaper. A yeast-related diaper rash is more likely to occur in babies, who have more
frequent stools, nursing mothers taking antibiotics, Acids in the stool (seen more often when
the child has diarrhea), Ammonia (produced when bacteria break down urine), Diapers that
are too tight or rub the skin, Reactions to soaps and other products used to clean cloth
diapers. Certain skin creams and ointments will clear up infections caused by yeast. Nystatin,
miconazole, clotrimazole, and ketaconazole are commonly used medicines for yeast diaper
rashes.
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B. Infantile Eczema (See contact dermatitis)


Precaution/Treatment: Avoid eggs in a very young child, irritants like lanolin or wool, sudden
changes in body temperature, use a moisturizer to relieve itch, topical steroids or liquid
antihistamins, Keeping fingernails cut short and to consider light gloves if nighttime
scratching is a problem.
C. Cradle Cap (See Seborrheic dermatitis)
Precaution/Treatment: Gentle scalp massage with figure tips, using gentle shampoos and mild
soap after mineral oils application.
D. Infantile or Baby Acne
Baby acne, also called infant or infantile acne, looks like a rough, red rash. It's most common
on the infant's cheeks and nose, comedones and papules will be present, and possibly some
small pustules. Baby acne develops during the weeks after birth, most likely due to hormones
that passed from mother to infant during the last stage of pregnancy. Baby acne can be
aggravated by milk, formula, or spit-up coming in contact with the skin.
E. Milia (See Miliaria)
Milia are tiny white bumps or small cysts on the skin that are almost always seen in newborn
babies. Whitish, pearly bump in the skin of newborns, typically across the cheeks, nose, and
chin. Similar cysts are seen in the mouths of newborn infants. They are called Epstein's
pearls. These cysts also go away on their own. Irritated milia are sometimes incorrectly called
"baby acne," although it is not actually a form of acne. In children, no treatment is needed.
Skin changes on the face or cysts in the mouth usually disappear after the first few weeks of
life without treatment, and without any lasting effects.
Care & Protection for babies
Principles of baby skin care:

So safe and trusted products for baby should be used for minimizing the chances of
absorption of potentially harmful substances through the skin.

Mild and gentle baby products should be used as the babies skin is thinner and more
vulnerable to the irritation and physical damage from harsh and harmful substances.

External products that provide the required levels of moisturization should be applied as
the skin of babies becomes dry quickly.

Face and Body Creams/Body Lotions


Face creams are especially important for the protection against environmental influences like
sunlight, wind, and cold temperatures, which may dry out baby skin. The composition
resembles that of the body-care creams, although the moisturizer content is often higher. The
ingredients used are often more compatible with the mucous membranes (especially in the
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area of the eyes) than in the case of body creams. Body-care creams are frequently used for
their excellent super fatting properties. Both O/W and W/O emulsions are found in the
market. Body-care lotions are normally used for large-area body care, e.g., after baby bath.
Classic ingredients used are lanolin, lanolin alcohol, paraffin oil, vaseline, natural and
synthetic wax esters, natural oils, fatty alcohols, and emulsifiers (e.g., fatty acid glycerides,
ethoxylated fatty alcohols). Many skin-caring, soothing active ingredients are also found.
Sun Protection
With or without topical sun-protection measurements, babies and small children should be
kept out of direct sunlight. As soon as children begin to explore their environment, it usually
becomes impossible to confine them to the shade. In such cases, sunscreens need to be
applied. A wide variety of different o/w and w/o emulsions, hydrogels and oleogels are found
in the market using a variety of UV-filter systems.
Cold Protection
Mild facial creams are especially important in the winter for protection against the harsh
effects of a dry, cold climate. At freezing temperatures, significant protection against frost
bite is obviously helpful. Specific petrolatum-based water-free formulations, which optionally
contain zinc oxide and skin-soothing agents like panthenol, can protect the skin at
temperatures below freezing.
Functional Requirement of Baby Products
It appears that most skin problems in babies occur because of wrapping of them in tightly
fitting garments providing warm and stagnant environment for growth bacteria From the
functional point of view, baby skin care product should protect baby skin from hostile
environment by cleaning the skin thoroughly from sebum , grime etc. The types of products
which are available for babies are same as that for adults, e.g., soap, oils, lotions, etc. Many
formulations are tempted to include a germicidal in baby skin products, common examples
being cetyl pyridinium chloride and benzethonium chloride.
Hazards
Diethylhexyl phthalate (DEHP) is a chemical used to make plastics soft and flexible.
Children may suffer damage to their developing reproductive systems if they frequently chew
or suck on items with unsafe levels of DEHP.
Different types of Baby Products
A. Disposable Diapers: General requirements are:
1. It should minimize bacterial growth in excreted urine.
2. Absorptive capacity sufficient to allow the baby to remain undisturbed overnight.
3. Must be comfortable and convenient to change.
4. It must be free from any irritating material and must not be unattractive as garment.
COSMETOLOGY LECTURE SYNOPSIS (PHR 704)

WORLD UNIVERSITY OF BANGLADESH

Page 14

5. It must not interfere with cloth changes for warm or cold weather.
B. Baby Oil: In the formulations of baby oil, bland vegetable oils like ground nut oil, lanolin
derivatives and some higher alcohols can be used The most popular brands of baby oils
contain mineral oil (liquid petroleum composed mainly of alkanes (typically 15 to 40
carbons) of high purity without perfume or a trace of perfume with solubilizer. Baby oil
and mineral oil are mixtures of petroleum distillation byproducts. Antiseptics,
antioxidants and perfume oils are generally added when desired. The antioxidants may
include propyl gallate, butylated hydroxyanisole and tocopherol.
Formulation: Baby oils
Ingredients

Formula
1 (%)

Light Mineral Oil


Vegetable Oil
Lanolin
Isopropyl myristate
Lantrol
Lanogene
Hexachlorophene
Antooxidant
Perfume

98.9
1
0.1

Formula Formula Formula Formula


2 (%)
3 (%)
4 (%)
5 (%)
73.5
25
1
0.05
0.1

49.4
5
19.5
25
1
0.1

39.4
9.5
50
1
0.1

88.9
7
3
1
0.1

C. Baby Soap and cleansers:


Normally the general requirements for a baby toilet soap are similar to those prescribed
for toilet soap meant for adults. However, on account of natural difference between a
babys skin and an adults skin due regard to toxicity and dermatological consideration is
given during the manufacture of baby toilet soap. This is because the skin of babies, being
much thinner and less cornified than that of an adult, is highly susceptible to irritation and
resistance to bacterial attack is not fully developed in the very young ones. Baby soap
generally has just a few basic ingredients in it. These soaps will have water, oil and
glycerine.
Formulation: Baby Soap
Ingredients
Lye
Water
Sweet Almond Oil
Jojoba
Castor Oil
Shea Butter
Coconut Oil
Palm Oil
COSMETOLOGY LECTURE SYNOPSIS (PHR 704)

Wt/Vol
194g
19 oz
8 oz
7 oz
2 oz
4 oz
19 oz
14 oz

WORLD UNIVERSITY OF BANGLADESH

Page 15

Vit E oil

1 oz

D. Baby Shampoo
Baby shampoo formulations or low tear and mild formulations combine high foaming
anionic surfactants like Sodium Laureth sulfate and some mild anionic, amphoteric
(Disodium cocoamphodiacetate) and/or nonionic surfactants (PEG-80 sorbitan laurate).
The viscosity of the formulation below is adjusted with PEG. Trace amounts of the redflagged ingredients-1.4-dioxane and quaternium-15-are found in popular products such as
Johnson's Baby Shampoo and Aveeno Baby Soothing Relief Creamy Wash. 1.4-dioxane,
a solvent used to make chemicals gentler on skin, has been shown to cause vertigo,
drowsiness, headaches, as well as irritation of the eyes, nose, and throat, while
quaternium-15 releases formaldehyde, a common disinfectant, was recently classified as a
human carcinogen by the U.S. National Toxicology Program.
Formulation: Baby Shampoo
Ingredients
Na-Lauryl Ether SO4
Cocamidoprpyl betaine 30%
Polyoxyethylene (80) sorbitan monolaurate
PEG distearate
Water
Perfume, preservative, color

(%)
6
12
6
1.5
74.5
q.s.

Ingredients
Tearless surfactant (Miranol)
Na-Lauryl Ether SO4
PEG
Lauramide DEA
Water
Perfume, preservative, color

(%)
40
5
5
2
48
q.s.

E. Baby Lotion
The preparations may interfere with important functions such as respiration &
elimination of body toxins (by covering the skin with a continuous, impervious, multi
molecular film). So the use of lotions started. Another method of new born and infant
skin care is the use of antiseptic, mild acidic, cationic lotions, based on use of quaternary
ammonium and pyridium compounds in O/W lotions stabilized in nonionic emulsifiers.
These lotions appear to have beneficial effects in decreasing rashes on the infants skin.

Formulation: Baby Lotions


Part

Nonionic-Anionic type Lotion


COSMETOLOGY LECTURE SYNOPSIS (PHR 704)

Nonionic-cationic type Lotion


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Ingredients
Stearic acid
Isoprpyl Palmitate
Lanolin
Bees Wax
PG 400 monostearate
Pure Glyceryl
monostearate
Amerchol L-101
Oleic acid

Hexachlorophene
Light mineral Oil
Propyl Paraben
Methyl paraben
PG
Glycerol
Triethanolamine
Water
Perfume

2
2

(%)
2.5
-

2.5
-

Ingredients
Cetyl Alcohol
Pure Glyceryl

5
8
10
-

0.5
1

(%)
0.5
1

2
-

monostearate
Isoprpyl Palmitate
Lanolin
Light mineral Oil
Amerchol L-10

3
1
5
-

1
8

2
2
-

9
-

1.5

Tegin
Propyl Paraben

0.15

0.15

6
0.15

15
0.15

4.5
0.15

1
25
0.15
Glycerol
Sorbitol
Lactic acid
Emcel E 60
Hyamine
Water
Perfume

3
0.1
0.25
85.9
0.1

1
0.1
0.15
86
0.1

2
0.15
87.6
0.1

F. Baby Creams
They generally have higher ratio of oil-wax/water phase than lotions and hence provide great
degree of emollience and lubrication per unit weight of a product. They generally contain
ZnO, antiseptics, fungicides, antibiotics, vitamins, cod liver oil, poly unsaturated fatty acids
or glycerides, antipruritics, anesthetics, sun screen or insect repellants.

Formulation: Baby Creams


Ingredients
Mineral Oil
Lanolin
Stearic acid
Triethanolamine
Water
Stearyl alcohol
Cetyl alcohol
Na-alginate
Isopropyl palmitate
COSMETOLOGY LECTURE SYNOPSIS (PHR 704)

(%)
26
1
1
0.5
70
0.5
0.4
-

(%)
15
5
2
1
52
2

WORLD UNIVERSITY OF BANGLADESH

Page 17

Beeswax
PG
PEG 400 stearate
Perfume, preservative

q.s.

8
5
10
q.s.

G. Talcum powders
Baby powder is used to keep babies dry and comfortable. It is important to use baby powder
properly. The powder easily floats into the air. It can get into babies eyes. Breathing problems
are the most common problem. It may cause cough, eye and throat irritation. Diarrhea,
vomiting, skin rash, shedding (sloughing), twitching of arms, hands; legs, feet and facial
muscle is not uncommon. We should not use baby powder when a child has broken skin
resulting from a diaper rash. Doing so can cause the rash to become inflamed and infected.
Talc, when used in broken skin (wounds and surgical incision) can produce sterile abscesses
or granuloma (a nodule of inflamed tissue, in which granulation is occurring). It precludes
use of talc on surgical gloves, absorbable dusting powders are now recommended for this
purpose. No problems are associated with use of talc on the intact skin. Boric acid has been
used in solutions, ointments and dusting powders as antiseptic. It is a weak bacteriostatic
agent, non-irritating when applied to skin and mucus membranes. 5% ointments (Borax )
used as emollient antiseptic in diaper rash instead of talc powder.
Further Readings
1. What are the non-pharmacological treatments/precautions that prevent diaper rash?
2. M/A of cationic ointments.
Chapter 3: Antiperspirants & Deodorant
Introduction
Deodorants are

substances

applied

to

the

body

to

affect body

odor caused

by bacterial growth and the smell associated with bacterial breakdown of perspiration in
armpits, feet and other areas of the body. A subgroup of deodorants, antiperspirants, affect
odor as well as prevent sweating by affecting sweat glands. Antiperspirants are typically
applied to the underarms, while deodorants may also be used on feet and other areas in the
form of body sprays. In the majority of cases deodorants are preferred over antiperspirants
since it is an acclaimed fact that these won't prevent sweating artificially.
Perspiration Physiology
Sweating is the secretion of a clear and salty liquid from the sweat glands of the body in
response to a stimulus such as stress and anxiety. It is caused by the stimulation of the
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Page 18

anterior hypothalamus-preoptic area in the brain either by conduction or by excess heat. The
hypothalamus contains the thermo-sensitive neurons which regulates the heat regulatory
function of the body though inputs from the temperature receptors in the skin. Physical heat
and emotional stress are two situations wherein the nerves will stimulate sweat glands to
produce sweat. Emotionally induced sweating is generally restricted to palms, soles, and
forehead, while physical heat produces sweating throughout the body.
Sweat Composition
Inorganic
Organic

NaCl, K+, Ca++, Mg++, Cu++, Fe+++


Acetic acid, ammonia, ascorbic acid, Butyric acid, caprionic acid, caprylic
acid, citric acid, formic acid, propionic acid, urea

Mechanism of Perspiration Control


Today, the most widely accepted theory of the antiperspirant action is that of diffusion of the
soluble antiperspirant active ingredient into the sweat duct coupled with the slow
neutralization of the acidic metal salt. This produces a gelatinous and insoluble polymeric
aluminum hydroxide-protein gel which acts as a partial obstruction at the orifice of the sweat
gland so reducing, but not stopping, the flow of axillary perspiration. This reaction happens
at, or below, the natural physiological pH of the skin surface.

General mechanism played by the Deodorants


Deodorants do not prevent sweating, but are helpful in reducing body odor. Products
containing 10% to 20% aluminum chloride hexahydrate are the first line of treatment for
underarm sweating. Some patients may be prescribed a product containing a higher dose of
aluminum chloride, which is applied nightly onto the affected areas. Aluminum chloride is a
local external astringent and mild antiseptic. It is used in aqueous solution in concentration
ranging from 10 to 15%. They are protein precipitants with limited penetrating power. Being
a surface phenomenon, it does not usually result in the destruction of host tissue. The effect
can be generally described as shrinkage or firming of the tissue. For example, astringents will
cause the constriction of the capillaries and small blood vessels. Higher conc. will create
irritation and further increase in conc. may impart corrosive effects.
Active Ingredients for Antiperspirant Formulations
Aluminum chlorhydrate
Aluminum chloride
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Page 19

Basic aluminum bromide


Basic aluminum hydroxychloride-zirconyl hydroxy oxyehloride
Aluminum hydroxychloride-zirconyl hydroxy oxychloride-glycine complex
Basic aluminum nitrate
Basic aluminum bromide-zirconyl hydroxy oxybromide
Magnesium aluminum zirconlure gluconate chloride
Basic aluminum iodide
Types: Antiperspirants
A. Aerosols
In the late 1950s, manufacturers began using aerosol technology to dispense personal care
products such as perfumes and shaving creams. In the early 1960s, Gillette introduced
Right Guard, the first aerosol antiperspirant. Aerosols became a popular way to dispense
antiperspirants, by 1967, half the antiperspirants sold (in the USA) were aerosol sprays, and
by the early 1970s, they accounted for 82% of all sales. However, in late 1970s two technical
issues arose which greatly impacted the popularity of these products:
1. In 1977 aluminum zirconium complexes were banned by the FDA due to concerns about
long term inhalation safety.
2. The use of chlorofluorocarbon (CFC) got strictly limited by the EPA shortly after, due to
growing concerns that it may be involved in the disintegration of the ozone layer.
Formulation: Typical Aerosol (P/O) antiperspirant
Ingrdients
Micronized AlCl2
Isopropyl myristate
Fumed silica
Perfume
Propellants 11/12 (65:35)

(%)
4.5
3.7
0.15
q.s.
q.s. to 100

B. Sticks
A stick is a solid delivery vehicle cast in an elongated form. By rubbing a stick onto skin, a
variety of cosmetic ingredients can be delivered, such as fragrances, coloring agents, and
emollients. Antiperspirants in roll-on (stick) form became increasingly popular. Consumers
embraced sticks as a clean alternative to aerosols (market share 1985: approx. 35%). Today,
roll-on sticks are still the most popular antiperspirant form, although many dermatologist
recommend dropper bottles (better dosing and appliance).There are mainly three basic
vehicle types of sticks:

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Page 20

Mixture of waxes (e.g., beeswax, carnauba) and oils (e.g., mineral, castor oil) that are cast
into solid form, containing dissolved or un-dissolved active ingredients

Hydrophilic or aqueous sticks: solutions based on aqueous, propylene glycol, alcohol


mixtures, solidified usually by sodium stearate, containing, e.g., aluminium chlorohydrate
as antiperspirant

Matrix consisting of a high-boiling volatile silicone (e.g., cyclomethicone) gelled by fatty


alcohol (e.g., stearyl alcohol)

Formulation: Dry antiperspirant stick


Phase
Powder Phase

Liquid Phase

Ingredients
Avicel (FMC)
Italian Talc
Ultra-fine AlCl2
Dri-Flo Starch
Zn-stearate
Volatile Silicon (Union Carbide)
Isoprpylan 33 (Robinson-Wagner)
Perfume

(%)
52.35
14.3
19
7.3
1.9
4.8
0.1
0.25

C. Creams
Deodorant cream is usually placed under the arms to prevent sweating and the odors
associated with sweating. Some brands are potent enough they can cause a burning sensation
in the armpits. People with sensitive skin in that area may find it best to use the products
labeled unscented or mild. There are, however, advantages to using this type of
deodorant. Many people do not like to share deodorants that come into contact with other
peoples arms. Since cream varieties generally involve hand application, people may feel
more comfortable sharing, which could result in savings for a family with multiple people.
Cream deodorants may also be considered more environmentally friendly than some other
options. This can result in less material being used or disposed of as waste.
Formulation: Antiperspirant cream
Ingredients
Isoprpyl myristate
Bentone 38 (Thickening/suspending)
Ethyl alcohol (Gel promoting agent)
Zirconium HCl/ AlCl2/Glycin complex
Silicon (Antisyneresis agent)
Perfume
Aerosol Deodorants

(%)
32
7
3
47
10
1

Unlike roll-on deodorant that simply needs to be smoothed over the skin, an aerosol
deodorant is applied with a spraying method. To apply aerosol deodorant, the user needs to
COSMETOLOGY LECTURE SYNOPSIS (PHR 704)

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Page 21

shake the can several times. The user should then remove the lid and then hold the deodorant
several inches away from their underarm before spraying. Aerosol deodorants are based on
alcoholic solution of a bactericide. In some cases a product is called a de-cologne and used as
body spray of alcoholic solution of a perfume.
Formulation: Typical aerosol deodorant
Ingredients
Triclosan
PG
Alcohol (99%v/v)
Water

(%)
0.05
2
57.45
40

Further Reading

Deodorant soaps and sticks

Staining of clothes by antiperspirants

Chapter 4: Shaving Preparations


Pre-Shave Preparations

Soap, cream, shaving stick, foam, aerosol

After Shave Preparations

Lotion, cream, gel, powder

Objective: Shaving Soap/Cream

Reduce tensile strength of beard

Lather supports the hair shaft

Acts as a lubricant

Shaving Soap

More foam than cream

Found in paper packed hard mass

Always exposed, therefore ~


Hardens day by day due to structural water evaporation
Fragrance lost within time being

Suitable for saloon purpose because of frequent use there

Other volatile substances also evaporated

Not convenient to carry, used with brush

Shaving Stick

Not used now-a-days, although better than soap

More fragrant & contains more humectants

Therefore more cost involved

Hard mass, used with brush

COSMETOLOGY LECTURE SYNOPSIS (PHR 704)

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Page 22

Convenient to carry, since kept in an inbuilt box

Screw type cap is almost air-tight

Shaving Foam/Aerosol

Become very popular day by day

Modern approach, higher technology involved

More convenient to use, no brush is required

Detergent is present inside coated metal can, jar along with compressed gas as
propellant but no foam formation inside the can as there is no air inside

No chance of evaporation of fragrance

As a propellant air is cheap but there is chance of oxidation of the other contents

CFC propellants cause depletion of stratospheric ozone, protective against UV.

Expensive

Shaving Gel

More viscous

Shaving Powder

Contains very fine dried starch

Contains fragrance & antiseptic

How a shaving soap is differ from Shaving cream

Practice

Available now-a-days

Convenient to carry

Do not require compression since it is a semi-solid preparation

Brush is required but it is time saving

Manufacturing requires heavy duty paste mixers

Optimum water balance/moisture content

Basic Factors of a comfortable shaving

MirrorTo get the correct view of shaving.

Razorsharp blade requires to avoid ~


Trauma
Irritation
Oozing

Foam
Wetting agent should be such that the foam retains on the face during the time
length of shaving.

Beard Wetting & Softening

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Optimum wetting of beard is necessary for efficient gliding action of razor.


Followings are necessary ~
Addition of wetting agent
Removal of sebum by detergent
Increasing pH of water

Skin Lubrication
Easy & painless gliding of razor
Friction is reduced by addition of surfactant, mineral oil & silicon fluid

Shaving Style
Shaving should be multidirectional
Upward to downward direction

Antiseptic Action
Inner surface exposed after shaving & is prone to microbial attack

Astringent & Cooling Effect


Necessary to suppress irritation
Stop oozing by constriction of blood vessels

Criteria of a Smooth soap/Cream

Must produce rich lather of small bubbles

Non-irritant

Good wetting properties

Smooth, soft & free from lumps

Adhere readily to face & brush

Readily remove on cleansing

Some consistency & texture at all likely temperature

Formulation: Aerosol Shaving Foam


1 part

9 part

Ingredient
%
Freon 12 & Freon 114
Cetyl alcohol
2.4 %
Hydrous lanolin
1.5%
Mineral Oil
4.8 %
Foaming agent
46.2%
Stearic acid
1%
Perfume
0.2%
Purified Water
43.9%

COSMETOLOGY LECTURE SYNOPSIS (PHR 704)

Objective
Foam stabilizer
Hydrophobic vehicle
Foam building effect
Wetting
Lathering

WORLD UNIVERSITY OF BANGLADESH

Page 24

Astringent (alternatives) ~

Zn-phenol sulfate

Al-chlorohydroxide

Alcohol soluble Al-Cl complexes

Formulation: Shaving Cream


Ingredient
a. Stearic Acid
b. KOH

Alternative
%
Oleic,
laureic, 75
pulmitic acid
NaOH

Justification
Stearic acid has good lathering property but
alone is not sufficient, combination with other

0.5

fatty acid increase foam building effect.

c. Coconut Oil

Olive Oil

It is a good foaming agent, humectants &

0.25

emulsifying agent.

TEA

Glycerol

Coconut oil addition imparts soothing effect.

Olive oil is preferred ~


Compatible with physiologic system

monostearate,

No allergic reaction

Na-lauryl sulfate

A mixture of alkali is used to saponify the


fatty acids
KOH + Stearic Acid ------K-stearate*
* (surfactant + pearly appearance)

d. Glycerin

EG, PG

15

NaOH ~ hardness of the preparation


Humectants
Form softer cream

e. Lanolin
f. Cetyl Alcohol
g. Alum
h. Na-MP
i. Na-PP
j. Menthol

Povidone

Methyl

Imparts good texture


Water protective base/Hydrophobic vehicle

1
0.5

Palliative property
Foam stabilizer
Astringent (Coagulates microbial protein)

Some antiseptic property


Preservative with synergistic action

Preferable odor

Some preservative action

P- 10:1

hydroxy
benzoate
Thymol, alcohol

COSMETOLOGY LECTURE SYNOPSIS (PHR 704)

0.5

WORLD UNIVERSITY OF BANGLADESH

Page 25

k. Color (Water soluble TiO2)


L. Flavor (Cardamom, Cinnamon,

q.s.

Clove, peppermint, spearmint)


m. Water
After Shave Lotion
Ingredients
%
a.
Iso-propyl 30%
alcohol
b. Et-Alcohol
c. Menthol
d. Alum

e. Glycerin

Alternatives

Also imparts some surface anesthesia


Opaque white color

Appearance

Objective
Antiseptic property

20%

Low volatile
Cooling effect but also corrosive

0.05%
0.5%

Thymol
Hyamine

Antiseptic
Cooling agent
Antiseptic (Coagulates microbial protein)

K-oxyquinone

Allantoin also promote wound healing

sulfate
EG, PG

Humectants + Emollient

Glycerol, sorbitol
Na-benzoate

Also improve appearance


Preservative

Local anesthetic
Purple, magenda but not violet
Eugenol, vetivert, Patchouli, lavender

5%

f. Ethyl P-amino 0.05%


benzoate
g. Benzocaine
h. Color
i. Fragrance
j. Water

0/025%
q.s.
0.5%
q.s.

Quality Control of Shaving Cream

ConsistencyThe shaving cream must retain a satisfactory & texture at overall


temperature conditions likely to be encountered in use. The FFA level should maintained
as such that ~
The preparation is neither too hard nor too soft.
The foam retains during the time length of shaving.

Beard WettingAdequate wetting agents added to the preparation that it could


straighten beard after foaming & enhance the gliding action of razor.

Viscosity of the PreparationAlthough viscosity is temperature depending but at


ambient temperature the preparation should not be ~
Too viscousWater/glycerin added
Low viscousStearic acid & KOH is added to oil phase & aq
phase respectively.

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pHpH of the preparation should be around 10. But pH higher than skin may cause
corrosion, itching, blackening of skin. Citric acid may be added but stearic acid cause it
may form lumps. Again pH lower than desired also cause irritation, KOH can be added.

No Granular AppearanceIf found, the preparation is taken again in a reaction vessel,


heated to 700C with constant stirring but not exceed the temperature & KOH is added q.s.

Absence of Burned particlesManufacturing of the product should be performed in


closed, jacketed reaction vessel with homogenizer & automatic stirrer with slow rpm. The
preparation should be observed time to time to prevent burning.

Non-Corrosive PreparationIt should not corrode nozzle/close end of the tube & the
tube should be air tight. The container is kept in a conc. color solution within a beaker. A
tight lid is placed on the beaker & a vacuum pump is connected. A ve pressure is created
inside the tube for 510 min & a +ve pressure outside the tube. If any color preparations
come out, the tube is not air tight.

LubricationLubricant level of the preparation should be enough to provide smooth &


painless shaving.

Cooling EffectMenthol, thymol, alcohol etc are added to impart cooling effect. Among
them menthol & thymol also provide surface anesthetic property.

Astringent PropertyAlum, Zn-phenol sulfate, Al-chlorohydroxide, Alcohol soluble


Al-Cl complexes are added. + Air Pocket Formation.

Shaving Cream: Manufacturing Procedure

A shaving cream requires Oil phase and water phase

The ingredients should be mixed in a system containing ~


Stirrer
Homogenizer
Jacketed kettle
Heated coil surrounding

Order of Mixing
Solid stearic acid is melted 1st at below 600C. Some coconut oil (Oil base) is mixed to
get better foaming
KOH flake was dissolved in water separately and a portion is added gradually with
contant unidirectional stirring at 550c. Both stirrer & homogenizer were set deep in
the kettle for uniform mixing. A uniform
K-stearate emulsion is formed.
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Page 27

Sorbitol, glycerin, lanoline were then added gradually with continuous unidirectional
stirring.
Cetyl alcohol was mixed with water by slow pouring.
Hard crystals of alum dissolved in water then menthol added.
Preservative dissolution is a time consuming matter so, sparingly water-soluble
preservatives were previously dissolved in separate vessel.
The water phase is then added slowly in the oil phase with constant unidirectional
stirring. In commercial production liquid mixer with paddle, anchor impeller should
be used in this purpose.
Temperature should be constant throughout the mixing process in the vessel. Jacketed
reaction vessel is used for the same.
The mixture was perfumed by water soluble perfume at 400C.

Manufacturing Problem
Temperature control: Stearic acid is used either alone or in combination of oleic,
myristic, pulmitic acid to get shiny & pearly appearance. Burnt stearic acid is present
in the preparation cause very much bad smell throughout the preparation.
Remedy: Special care should be taken for Stearic acid. The vessel should be opened
time to time for careful observation of the preparation.
Lump Formation:
Remedy: If formed, the whole preparation should be placed again in the kettle &
mixed properly again. If SA content is higher there is chance of lump formation.
Formation of air pocket
Remedy: r.p.m of stirring should be slower & if already formed, mild temperature is
applied to the preparation, bubbles will come out.
Blackening of the Preparation: occurs if the preparation comes out in contact of
Al/Fe.
Remedy: Use purified water & pure sample in the preparation and also their container
for packaging should be coated with protective.
Low consistency of the preparation: Addition of oil phase (coconut oil) in the
preparation with NaOH.
Highly Viscous Preparation: Addition of water/glycerin
Opaque appearance & presence of crystal alum: Alum should not be added in
powdered form, it is to be dissolved properly prior to addition.
Others:
Excess menthol

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Page 28

Perfume
Preservative
Phase separation
Chapter 5. Acne Protection
Adolescent skin problem: Acne
Acne (acne vulgaris, common acne) is a disease of the hair follicles of the face, chest, and
back that affects almost all males and females during puberty. It is not caused by bacteria,
although bacteria play a role in its development. It is not unusual for some women to develop
acne in their mid- to late-20s. As hormone levels rise and bodies change, skin reacts. For
some teens, it's an occasional pimple or blemish. For girls, it can occur right before each
menstrual cycle. It's characterized by whiteheads, blackheads, and, more frequently, pusfilled pimples. It usually develops in the central area of the cheeks and on the forehead. Acne
appears on the skin as...

congested pores ("comedones"), also known as blackheads or whiteheads,

tender red bumps also known as pimples or zits,

pustules, and occasionally as

cysts (deep pimples, boils).

What causes acne?


Acne happens when sebaceous (oil) glands attached to the hair follicles are stimulated at the
time of puberty by elevated levels of male hormones. Sebum (oil) is a natural substance
which lubricates and protects the skin. Associated with increased oil production is a change in
the manner in which the skin cells mature so that they are predisposed to clog the follicular
openings or pores. The clogged hair follicle gradually enlarges, producing a bump. As the
follicle enlarges, the wall may rupture, allowing irritating substances and normal skin bacteria
access into the deeper layers of the skin, ultimately producing inflammation. Inflammation
near the skin's surface produces a pustule; deeper inflammation results in a papule (pimple);
deeper still and it's a cyst. If the oil breaks through to the surface, the result is a "whitehead."
If the oil accumulates melanin pigment or becomes oxidized, the oil changes from white to
black, and the result is a "blackhead." Blackheads are therefore not dirt and do not reflect
poor hygiene.
Factors that play role in acne (Internal 1-4, External 5-8))

COSMETOLOGY LECTURE SYNOPSIS (PHR 704)

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1. Bacteria: The bacteria, named Propionibacterium Acnes (P. Acne), are typically live on
our skin and cause to acne. The presence of P. Acne attracts white blood cells produce
enzyme that causes local inflammation and redness. The presence of P. Acne does not cause
by dirt or poor hygiene. Reducing P. Acne numbers through treatment can effectively reduce
acne inflammation.
2. Sebum: Naturally, sebum, produces by sebaceous glands, "fill up" the hair follicles and the
"over filled" sebum gives the skin surface an oily appearance. Sebum good to our skin as it
makes our skin waterproof. Also, sebum helps to carry dead cells to exterior of skin. For
reasons that are unknown, some hair follicles become obstructed and the sebum that trapped
inside the hair follicles can cause P. Acne to grow. Eventually, it causes inflammation and
redness to our skin.
3. Hormones (Androgens): Many acne causes come from hormonal change or imbalance.
Hormone changes due to stress, menstruation, pregnancy, starting or stopping birth control
pills. The hormones that cause acne are called "androgens" Androgens stimulate the
sebaceous glands and secrete sebum to the surface of the skin. Combination of sebum, P.
Acne and toxin-blocked-pore aggravate the skin and causes inflammation and redness.
4. Genetics: Although not been proven, possible cause of acne is heredity or genetics because
it does influence thickness of skin, oily tendencies of the skin and basic hormone responses.
Even some studies have shown that acne development can be passed down from one
generation to the next. However one's parent has acne does not necessarily mean that next
generation will suffer from acne.
5. Improper skin care products: Improper skin care products can cause irritation to your
skin. These include any products that can block oil pores. Besides, avoid applying herbal
medication that has not been proven or approved. It might give you toxic reactions.
6. Over exposed to sunrays: Over exposure to sunrays cause skin damage and worsening
existing acne. Some common acne medications can make your skin sensitive to the sun and
lead to worse skin condition.
7. Picking and squeezing: Picking and squeezing acne is not recommended. Picking pushes
bacteria deeper into the skin cells or spread the bacteria already beneath the surface of the
skin. Squeeze acne using fingers can cause acne to become serious. In the situation that
COSMETOLOGY LECTURE SYNOPSIS (PHR 704)

WORLD UNIVERSITY OF BANGLADESH

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picking or squeezing is unavoidable, only dealing with blackheads and whiteheads, but not
the swollen and red goobers.
8. Washing face too often: Too much washing can stimulate oil glands. Wash your face with
mild soap and warm water 2 to 3 times a day. Again, acne is not caused by dirt and hygiene.
Washing too often or too vigorously may actually make acne worse.
Specific Acne Treatment
Antibiotics. For moderate to severe acne, you may need a short course of prescription oral
antibiotics to reduce bacteria and fight inflammation.
Isotretinoin. For deep cysts, antibiotics may not be enough. Isotretinoin (Amnesteem,
Claravis, Sotret) is a powerful medication available for scarring cystic acne or acne that
doesn't respond to other treatments. This medicine is reserved for the most severe forms of
acne.
Oral contraceptives. Oral contraceptives, including a combination of norgestimate and
ethinyl estradiol (Ortho Tri-Cyclen, Previfem, others), can improve acne in women. However,
oral contraceptives may cause other side effects such as headaches, breast tenderness,
nausea and depression
Laser and light therapy. Laser- and light-based therapies reach the deeper layers of skin
without harming the skin's surface. Laser treatment is thought to damage the oil (sebaceous)
glands, causing them to produce less oil. Light therapy targets the bacteria that cause acne
inflammation. These therapies can also improve skin texture and lessen the appearance of
scars.
Cosmetic

procedures.

Chemical

peels

(resorcinol,

S,

benzoyl

peroxide)

and

microdermabrasion may be helpful in controlling acne. These cosmetic procedures which


have traditionally been used to lessen the appearance of fine lines, sun damage and minor
facial scars are most effective when used in combination with other acne treatments. They
may cause temporary, severe redness, scaling and blistering, and long-term discoloration of
the skin.

COSMETOLOGY LECTURE SYNOPSIS (PHR 704)

WORLD UNIVERSITY OF BANGLADESH

Page 31

Formulation: Medicated Vanishing Cream


Ingredients
Laneth 10
Lanolin alcohol
Cetyl alcohol
Polawax
Myristyl myristate
Benzoyl peroxide
Resorcinol monoacetate
Mg-Al-Silicate
Methyl Paraben
Sulphur
Perfume
Water

(%)
2
0.5
5.5
6
2
2
0.2
4
0.2
1.4
q.s.
76.2

Formulation: Peeling Lotion and Acne cream


Peeling Lotion
Ingredients
(%)
Resorcinol
3.5
Salicylic acid
2
Alcohol
17
Rose water
77

Acne Cream (a)


Ingredients
Cetearyl alcohol
Ceteareth 20
Diisoprpyl adipate
Water
Cellulose
Benzoyl peroxide
PEG 4000
Water

Part
A

B
C

(%)
1.5
1
1.5
73.2
2.8
5
5
10

Further Readings

Acne: Natural & Home remedies

Treating Blackheads, Whiteheads, & Cystic Acne

Hormonal control of sebum production

Acne treatment during pregnancy

Chapter 6. Sunscreen, Suntan and anti-sunburn products


Sunburn and sun poisoning facts

Sunburn is an inflammation of the skin caused by overexposure to UV radiation from the


sun. UV radiation damages the skin and also can damage the eyes.

UV rays are most intense at noon and the hours immediately before and after (between
10AM and 4PM).

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Page 32

Immediate symptoms of sunburn are hot, red, tender skin; pain when the skin is touched
or rubbed; and dehydration; several days after exposure the skin may swell, blister, and
peel.

Most sunburns are mild and can be treated with home remedies such as applying damp
cloths or compresses to reduce the pain, soaking in a tepid bath (with no soap), gently
patting the skin dry, applying soothing creams or lotions, OTC pain relievers such as
Tylenol or others, and moisturizing the skin.

Sunburn may cause permanent skin damage and skin cancer (malignant melanoma, basal
cell carcinoma, squamous cell carcinoma).

Persons with certain pigment disorders and individuals with fair skin are at most risk of
sunburn.

Certain diseases and conditions pose a higher risk of sunburn (for example, albinism,
lupus, porphyrias, vitiligo, and xeroderma pigmentosum).

Some medications may increase sensitivity to sunburn (photosensitivity).

Sun poisoning is caused by severe sunburn; its symptoms include fever, nausea, chills,
dizziness, rapid pulse, rapid breathing, dehydration, and shock.

Sunburn: Pathophysiology
Exposure to solar radiation has the beneficial effects of stimulating the cutaneous synthesis of
vitamin D and providing radiant warmth. Unfortunately, when the skin is subjected to
excessive radiation in the ultraviolet range, deleterious effects may occur. The most
conspicuous is acute sunburn or solar erythema. Initially, UVR causes vasodilation of
cutaneous blood vessels, resulting in the characteristic erythema. Within 1 hour of UVR
exposure, mast cells release preformed mediators including histamine, serotonin, and tumor
necrosis factor, leading to prostaglandin and leukotriene synthesis. Within 2 hours after UV
exposure, damage to epidermal skin cells is seen. Erythema usually occurs 3-4 hours after
exposure, with peak levels at 24 hours.
Tanning
Less intense or shorter-duration exposure to UVR results in an increase in skin pigmentation,
known as tanning, which provides some protection against further UVR-induced damage.
The increased skin pigmentation occurs in 2 phases: (1) immediate tanning and (2) delayed
tanning. Immediate pigment darkening occurs during exposure to UVR and results from
alteration of existing melanin (oxidation, redistribution). It may fade rapidly or persist for
several days. Delayed tanning results from increased synthesis of epidermal melanin and
requires a longer period of time to become visible (24-72 h). With repeated exposure to UVR,
COSMETOLOGY LECTURE SYNOPSIS (PHR 704)

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the skin thickens, primarily due to epidermal hyperplasia with thickening of the stratum
corneum. UVR exposure also suppresses cutaneous cell-mediated immunity, contributing to
nonmelanoma skin cancer and infectious disease development.

Long-term hazards of skin damage from radiation:


Malignancy: Squamous cell epithelioma, Actinic keratosis, Basal cell carcinoma
Premature aging: nevus, seborrheic keratosis, solar lentigo, wrinkles, lines, etc

Sunburn Home Remedies and Treatment


Certain medical treatments have been tried and studied to treat sunburn. However, in general,
most remedies have not shown any clinically proven benefit as far as speeding the recovery
or reversing the damage. Therefore most of the treatments available are only used to treat
symptoms.

Nonsteroidal anti-inflammatory drugs (NSAIDs) in oral (ibuprofen, Motrin, Naprosyn,


Advil etc.) or topical diclofenac 0.1% gel (Solaraze) forms have shown to reduce redness
if applied before or immediately after UVB exposure. This benefit may be diminished
after 24 hours. These medications may also help relieve the symptoms of sunburn such as
pain and discomfort.

Topical steroid creams have not shown any significant improvement in sunburn
symptoms. Oral steroids such as prednisone have not proven to be beneficial and have
been associated with some significant side effects.

Applying Aloe Vera gel to the skin also has not been beneficial in treating the actual
sunburn. However, this may be beneficial in treating the symptoms.

Topical anesthetics: Advertised remedies such as topical anesthetics (benzocaine) may


help with symptoms of sunburn, however, very little clinical data is available to
substantiate their effectiveness.

Medication responsible for increase skin sensitivity to sunlight


A large number of medications are known to increase skin sensitivity to sunlight and are
called photosensitive drugs or medications. Some of the common ones include:

NSAIDs (nonsteroidal anti-inflammatory drugs)

Antibiotics:

Tetracyclines

(tetracycline,

doxycycline

[Vibramycin]),

Quinolone

(ciprofloxacin [Cipro], levofloxacin [Levaquin]), Sulfonamides (sulfamethoxazole and


trimethoprim; cotrimoxazole [Bactrim, Septra], sulfamethoxazole [Gantanol]).

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Page 34

Diuretics (water pills): thiazides (hydrochlorothiazide [Hydrodiuril], furosemide


[Lasix])

Cardiac medications: amiodarone (Cordarone), quinidine

Diabetes drugs: sulfonylureas such as chlorpropamide (Diabinese), glyburide


(Micronase, DiaBeta, Glynase)

Psychiatric drugs: chlorpromazine (Thorazine), tricyclic antidepressants such as


desipramine (Norpramin) and imipramine (Tofranil)

Acne medications: isotretinoin (Accutane)

Sunscreens
Sunscreens protect the skin by absorbing or reflecting the UV radiation. Many available
sunscreens protect mainly against UVB and may not adequately protect against long standing
UVA exposure. Sunscreens may be classified into two groups, physical sunscreens and
chemical sunscreens.
Physical sunscreens
Physical sunscreens act by reflecting and scattering the UV rays (A and B) and thus, limiting
their exposure to the skin. They include chemicals such as zinc oxide, titanium dioxide, ferric
chloride, ichthamnol, and talc. Their use has been somewhat limited by their opaque
appearance and tendency to stain clothing. Current preparations of zinc oxide are more
cosmetically acceptable and easier to use.
Chemical sunscreens
Chemical sunscreens work by absorbing the light prior to reaching the skin. Traditionally,
these sunscreens have protected mainly against UVB rays. Some examples of this group
include para-aminobenzoic acid (PABA), PABA esters, salicylates, and camphor derivatives.
PABA has been phased out of sunscreen preparations because of the high rate of allergic
reactions to this chemical. More recently, newer sunscreens have been developed to also
absorb UVA rays such as avobenzone, Mexoryl, dibenzoylmethanes, anthranilates,
benzophenones, triazoles, and some camphor derivatives.
Formulation of sunscreens: Important considerations
1. Convenience in use, packaging and closures should be designed accordingly.
2. Sunscreen should be present in sufficient quantity to be effective.
3. The sunscreen and the vehicle in use should be compatible.
4. Non-volatile materials (Other than the aqueous or non-aqueous phase) left on the skin.
Formulation
Aqueous Lotion

Non- Aqueous Lotion

COSMETOLOGY LECTURE SYNOPSIS (PHR 704)

Clear Lotion

WORLD UNIVERSITY OF BANGLADESH

Page 35

Ingredients
Filtrosol B
Methyl Cellulose

(%) Ingredients
7
Giv-Tan F
0.5 Denatured ethyl

(%) Ingredients
1.5 Isobutyl PABA
65
Tween 20

(%)
5
9

Glycerin
Ethyl alcohol
Water
Perfume

alcohol
2
Oleyl alcohol
10
Water
80.5 Perfume
q.s.

10
23
q.s.

45
41

Alcohol SD 40
Water

Further Reading
Titanium dioxide (TiO2) has good ultraviolet (UV)-blocking power and is very attractive in
practical applications because of such advantages as non-toxicity, chemical stability at high
temperature, and permanent stability under UV exposure, for example. Regular titanium
dioxide is highly stable under most conditions. The USP classifies it as a topical protective.
The protection is primarily for its opacity due to high refractive index (2.7). Whereas the
chemical sun screen agents like PABA acts chemically to absorb UV radiations. As a solar
ray protective it is used in a conc. 5% to 25% in ointments and lotions. Like zinc oxide, it is
an anti-irritant or skin protector. However, since it is not absorbed into the skin, this effect
may not be an issue in topical use on unbroken skin. It is also used as a white pigment in
cosmetics and paints.
Caution Titanium dioxide nano-particles appear to have much greater photocatalytic activity
than regular titanium dioxide powder and might trigger formation of harmful free radicals
when exposed to sunlight. Most manufacturers of titanium dioxide nanoparticles coat them to
reduce or eliminate such effects.

Chapter 07. Face Powder & Make-Up Preparations


Face Powder
Face powder comes in different shades to match varying skin tones, and it is a good idea to
choose the skin tone that most closely matches the natural skin. This will help the makeup
appear more natural; it should be virtually unnoticeable. It may be necessary to use different
face powders for summer and winter, as the skin may become more tan in the summer, or
drier and in need of extra moisture in the winter. In addition, some face powders are sold in
varying specialty shades to suit different skin needs; for example, a face powder with a

COSMETOLOGY LECTURE SYNOPSIS (PHR 704)

WORLD UNIVERSITY OF BANGLADESH

Page 36

greenish tinge will minimize the appearance of redness, while a purple-tinted powder may
help the appearance of sallow or yellow skin.
Function & Properties:

Product which has as its prime function the ability to complement skin color by imparting
a velvet like finish.

It is opaque enough to make minor blemishes, masking minor imperfections but it must
not impart a mask like effect

Whatever the finish it must possess some reasonable lasting properties to avoid need for
repowdering i.e. it must adhere to the skin

It must be reasonably rasistant to the mixed secretions of the skin

Finally, it should serve as a vehicle for pleasing odor to be disseminated by intimate


contact of perfume ladden particles over a warm and relatively large area.

No sitngle substance possess all the desired properties-covering powder, slip, absorbency,
adhesiveness and bloom. Hence a modern face powder is a blend of several constituents, each
one chosen for some special quality.
Types of Face Powder
1. Loose Face Powder
2. Compact (Pressed) Face Powder
Loose powder is generally sold in a small tub, and applied with a powder puff or makeup
brush. Pressed powder is sold in a compact, usually with a mirror on one side, and is applied
with a smaller powder puff or makeup sponge. There are advantages and disadvantages to
choosing loose or pressed face powder. Loose powder tends to go on more lightly, and give a
more natural look. It is not as portable as pressed powder, however, and is more difficult to
apply on the go. Pressed powder gives a more "finished" appearance, and may be a good idea
for those who require frequent touch-ups throughout the day. People with oily skin may need
to experiment to find which type of powder works best for them.
Essential Properties of a Good Face Powder
1. Covering Power- ability to mask skin defects such as skin shine, enlarged pores and
minor blemishes.
2. Slip- faculty of spreading over the skin without dragging and giving the characteristic
smooth feeling
3. Adhesiveness- ability to cling to the face
4. Absorbency- capable of absorbing skin secretions (perspiration and oiliness) without
showing evidence of such absorption
5. Bloom- ability to impart a velvety peach like finish to the skin.
Ingredients used in Face Powder
COSMETOLOGY LECTURE SYNOPSIS (PHR 704)

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Page 37

Talc
The first and foremost ingredient to be considered in the formulation and manufacture of face
powder is talc. Talc is the softest material on the Mohs scale of hardness. Chemically, it is a
magnesium silicate, 3MgO.4SiO2.H2O and is the basic ingredient of face powder
formulation. Its outstanding properties are easy spreadability (slip) and low covering
power. An extensive variety of talc is available and it should be judged on the basis of slip,
smoothness, fineness, grit, density, color and odor. For face powder use, talc should be white
and virtually odorless with a smooth greasy feel with excellent slip properties.
-

Innocuous material (harmless)

Basic ingredient of virtually all modern face powder formulation.

Synonyms: French chalk, soap stone, rice starch

Slip

Low covering property

Non toxic, harmless

Passes thru sieve no. 20 (micronized talc)

Precipitated Chalk
In face powder formulation and manufacture, a good cosmetic grade precipitate chalk serves
to preserve a certain balance between slip and adhesion, covering power and transparency. A
grit free precipitate chalk or calcium carbonate (CaCO3) is mildly alkaline, white, odorless,
microcrystalline powder and it reduces the shine of talc and has a good covering power, its
helps to absorb the perfume and is also grease resistant and perspiration absorbent. It is also
excellent for developing the bloom effect when face powder is applied. If this raw material is
used in excess, the powder may acquire a dry feel, but moderate usage is most helpful to face
powder formulas.

Preserves certain balance between slip and adhesion, coverage power and transparency

Good covering power

Develop bloom effect when face powder is applied

Zinc Oxide and Titanium dioxide


Since one of the primary function of the face powder is to mask minor skin blemishes,
covering power must receive careful consideration. There are two basic opacifiers employed
in face powder formulas: zinc oxide (ZnO) and titanium dioxide (TiO2). Too much coverage
by either may produce a mask like effect which is undesirable; too little gives a powder with
insufficient body. Zinc oxide possesses moderate adhesive properties and is comparatively
inert. Zinc oxide has certain therapeutic properties and helps to clear up minor skin disorders.
When employed in face powders, it should be of high quality as white color as possible.
COSMETOLOGY LECTURE SYNOPSIS (PHR 704)

WORLD UNIVERSITY OF BANGLADESH

Page 38

Odorless, uniform, fine and free from grit. To avoid any drying effect and allow sufficient
coverage, a formulation may consist as much as 25% ZnO.

Opacifier which has covering properties (SPF)

Too much ZnO may result to mask-like effect, drying the skin.

Titanium dioxide
Titanium dioxide (TiO2) is three to four times better as a covering agent than ZnO, but it has
less adhesion and cannot be blended quite as well. For a face powder with a desired covering
power a blend of this two is necessary.
-

3-4 times better as covering agent than ZnO

Opacifying agent, high resistance to UV rays

Protect the skin from sunburn ( Sunscreen property)

Kaolin
Kaolin or china clay is a generic term, which is applied to several hydrated aluminium
silicates. Kaolin is naturally mined product derived from feldspar. It possesses good covering
power and adhesion as well as certain grease-resistant and perspiration-absorbent properties.
Kaolin helps to remove the shine of talc and has certain soothing effects on the skin. All
aluminium silicates cannot be classified as kaolin. There are three distinct groups of clay
which have essentially the same formula, Al2O3.2SiO2.2H2O and may be called kaolin:
nacrite, dickite, and kaolinite. The color of kaolin used should be as light as possible (slightly
off-white to pale cream colored) and kaolin should be highly purified and free from gritty
impurities and coarse particles. Since kaolin is hygroscopic, its use in face powders does not
normally exceed 25%. Kaolin, like talc, is an innocuous material.

Synonyms: China clay

General term applied to several hydrated aluminum silicates.

Face powder adjuncts

For good covering power and adhesion

Grease resistant and perspirant absorptive property.

Controls puffiness and bulkiness

Innocuous

Does not exceed 25% because it is hygroscopic which may result in streaking during damp
mass
Magnesium Carbonate
The valuable characteristics of magnesium carbonate make it a commonly used ingredient in
face powder. MgCO3 has fine absorbent properties and has been proven satisfactorily as a
means of distributing perfume. The MgCO3 used should be fine in quality and free from
COSMETOLOGY LECTURE SYNOPSIS (PHR 704)

WORLD UNIVERSITY OF BANGLADESH

Page 39

contamination and a moderate amount of MgCO3 is used, since use in excess may result in
drying effect on the skin.

Fine absorbent properties

Means of distributing perfume

Should be used moderately because it may cause drying of the skin

Starch
The use of rice or wheat starch was a basic face powder ingredient; its current activity is
limited. The bloom and adsorbent properties of starch make it useful ingredient. As starch is
decomposed by bacterial action, it is now replaced by calcium carbonate and other materials.
Silicas and Silicates
Silicas and silicates maintain free flowing characteristics of face powder even at high
humidity. Silicates also serve as perfume carriers. Magnesium trisilicate is also used.
Frosted look materials
Natural pearlessence (guanine) consists of needle like, colorless, and transparent crystals
which, by simultaneous reflection and transmission of incident light on their platelets, impart
a pearl luster. Pearlessence exhibits extreme light-stability. The synthetic pigment bismuth
oxychloride was developed to replace guanine. Although photosensitive, bismuth oxychloride
is quite adaptable for use in frosted face powders to impart a metallic, pearl-like luster.
Metallic powders (mica, aluminium, bronze) are widely used to formulate powders with
sheen.
Binding Agents
5 Types
1. Dry- Zinc and Magnesium stearate
2. Oil- Mineral oil, lanolin derivative (3%)
3. Water soluble- gum tragacanth, gum kaya, PVC, CMC-water solution
4. Water repellant- mineral oil, fatty esters, esters, lanolin derivatives
5. Emulsion binder- soap, triethanolamine stearate, glyceryl monostrearate
E.G of Binder Formula: Mineral Oil (1%) + Polyethylene(2%) + water(97%) + preservative
Perfume
The selection of proper perfume is of extreme importance, since the odor of powder plays an
important role in the sales potential of the product. The perfume that used must be nonirritating, stable to mildly alkaline condition and not undergo oxidation or volatilization
easily. The fragrance must be compatible with all of the powder ingredients since problem
with rancidity, heterogeneity of odor, and discoloration may results from improper odor
selection.

Reasonable perfume range from 0.2-1%

COSMETOLOGY LECTURE SYNOPSIS (PHR 704)

WORLD UNIVERSITY OF BANGLADESH

Page 40

Perfume and MgCO3 good absorbent powder

Formulation
Fatty powder for rough/dry

Matt effect or shimmer

Make-Up Cream

skin
Ingredients

Parts

Ingredients

(%)

Ingredients

(%)

Talc

1000

Talc

77

Glyceryl mono & distearate

Vaseline

50

Zn-stearate

PEG 400 monostearate

White Beeswax

40

ZnO

Stearic acid

11.5

Petroleum Jelly

40

Kaolin

Cetyl alcohol

0.5

Stearin

20

Mica

10

Isopropyl palmitate

Glyceryl monostearate

75

Red Iron Oxide

0.36

PG

12

Water

500

Yellow Iron Oxide

0.36

Sorbitol Syrup

2.5

Black Iron Oxide

0.03

Preservative

0.1

Perfume

0.25

TiO2

2.2

Talc

Color Pigments

Water

57.4

Further Reading

Stick Make-Up, Liquid Make-Up

Chapter 8: Protective & Insect Repellants


Protective & Hand Cleanser
Hand sanitizers are considered OTC (over the counter) drugs and regulated by the FDA under
the 1994 Tentative Final Monograph (TFM).

Monographs specify the active

ingredients that can be contained within OTC drug products as well as specify labeling,
product testing and other general requirements. Hand sanitizers are included in the
product category called Antiseptic Hand Washes which are products designed for
frequent use and intended to reduce the number of transient micro-organisms on
intact skin. Alcohol hand sanitizer formulations offer excellent initial log reduction of
gram-positive and gram-negative bacteria, fungi and multi-drug resistant pathogens
such

as

vancomycin-resistant

COSMETOLOGY LECTURE SYNOPSIS (PHR 704)

Enterococcus

(VRE)

and

WORLD UNIVERSITY OF BANGLADESH

Methicillin-resistant
.

Page 41

Staphylococcus aureus (MRSA). Alcohol has an excellent initial antimicrobial log


reduction activity because of its ability to denature proteins.
Hand washing
Hand washing is an important component of the skin care routine for contact dermatitis and
eczema. There is a range of different hand washing products available, and the one used will
depend on the task being performed. Washing with very hot water is damaging to the skin,
warm water is preferred. Excessive amounts of hand washing can also aggravate eczema and
cause the development of irritant contact dermatitis.
There are a range of hand cleansers available:
1. Soaps
In the workplace, some soaps and hand cleansers can be too harsh or strong for the skin. Soap
which has sand in it can be additionally damaging and drying.
Cleaning with solvents and thinners will immediately dry the skin and cause irritation.
Talk to your safety supplier about a suitable type of hand cleanser for your workplace, one
which is supplied in a dispenser is both convenient and hygienic, preventing contamination of
the product, and dispenses the correct amount required.
2. Alcohol based hand rubs
Alcohol based hand cleansers are routinely used in the healthcare industry. However, their
popularity is now growing in other industries with products now being developed for the
construction, mechanical and metal working industries. These cleansers minimize the need
for hand washing and contact with soaps, and cater for those who do not always have access
to hand washing facilities such as builders and other trades persons.
Benefits to using Alcohol Hand Rub

Requires less time


Acts faster
More effective for standard hand washing than soap
More accessible than sinks
Most efficacious agents for reducing the number of bacteria on the hands of

healthcare workers
Can improve the skins condition
Allergic dermatitis found to be less common side effect of alcohol based hand-rubs in
comparison to soap and water techniques.

3. Soap substitutes
COSMETOLOGY LECTURE SYNOPSIS (PHR 704)

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Page 42

Soap substitutes are less irritating than normal soaps as they have a similar acidity (pH) to
that of the skin, and therefore are preferred for people with dry or damaged skin, or have
eczema.
Formulation:
Waterless Hand Gels
Ingredients
Deodorize Kerosene
Lanolin
Cocamide DEA
Stearic Acid
Oleic Acid
NaOH
Amphoteric-2
PEG-75 Lanolin
Water
Perfume, Color, Preservative

Waterless Hand Cleansing Cream


(%)
Ingredients
25
35 Mg-Al-Silicate
10 Sorbitan Stearate
4
Polysorbate 60
6
2.43 Deodorized Kerosene
8
3.64 Methyl Cellulose
0.8 0.38 Water
2
Perfume, Color, Preservative
0.5
57.7 44.5
q.s. q.s.

(%)
2.5
2
8
35
0.5
52
q.s.

Moisturizing the hands


Moisturizing creams used regularly can repair and maintain moisture in the skin. They are the
most important treatment measure for irritant contact dermatitis. They may prevent dry skin
from becoming inflamed, and turning into dermatitis. When selecting a moisturizer there are
several things to consider:

A greasy ointment (they are usually thick and clear, like Vaseline) is most effective for
healing damaged skin, but not always practical for day use. Ideally it should be used
when you get home and before bed. If an ointment can't be used, a less greasy cream
purchased in a tub or tube is next best.

Moisturizing lotions are also available. A lotion is a thin and watery substance often
purchased in a pump pack.

Some oil-based moisturizers may not be suitable for use under some gloves, as these
moisturizers can damage the protective functions of the gloves. Generally we do not
recommend the use of moisturizers under occlusive (tight-fitting, waterproof type) gloves.
However at night, creams may be applied under cotton gloves.

Barrier Materials
To date, some evidence about the effectiveness of barrier creams is conflicting.
Barrier creams often do not act as the protective shield which may be claimed, and other
precautions such as wearing gloves, will still be required. However, applying barrier cream
before work can make cleaning the skin easier at the end of the day, such as when working
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with grease or oil. Just as all gloves are not suitable for every job, not all barrier creams are
right for the job. Some are made to help protect against water-based substances and other are
made to protect against oil-based substances. A safety supplier will provide advice on the best
type to use in workplace.
Formulation
Protective Hand Creams
Ingredients
Stearic Acid
Dimethicon
Zn-Stearate
Isopropyl Myristate
Sorbitan Stearate
Polysorbate 60
Sorbitol
Methyl Cellulose (4% Aq)
Water
Perfume, Color, Preservative

(%)
20
15
5
5
2
1.5
1.5
3.5
2
20
6
25
48
45.5
q.s.
q.s.

Protective Lotion
Ingredients
DEA Oleth-3-Phosphate
Cetyl Alcohol
Lanolin
Dimethicon
Isopropyl Myristate
Stearic Acid
Triethanolamine
PG
Mg-Al-Silicate
Water
Perfume, Color, Preservative

(%)
2
0.5
0.5
2
2
3
0.5
5
0.5
84
q.s.

Insect Repellants
An insect repellent is a substance applied to skin, clothing, or other surfaces which
discourages insects (and arthropods in general) from landing or climbing on that surface.
There are also insect repellent products available based on sound production, particularly
ultrasound (inaudibly high frequency sounds). These electronic devices have been shown to
have no effect as a mosquito repellent by studies done by the EPA and many universities.
Insect repellents help prevent and control the outbreak of insect-borne diseases such as
malaria, Lyme disease, dengue fever, bubonic plague, and West Nile fever. Pest animals
commonly serving as vectors for disease include the insects flea, fly, and mosquito; and the
arachnid tick.
Common insect repellents

Birch tree bark is traditionally made into tar. Combined with another oil (i.e. fish oil)
at 1/2 dilution, it is then applied to the skin for repelling mosquitos

DEET (N,N-diethyl-m-toluamide)

Essential oil of the lemon eucalyptus (Corymbia citriodora)

Icaridin, also known as picaridin, Bayrepel, and KBR 3023

Nepetalactone, also known as "catnip oil"

Citronella oil

Permethrin

Neem oil

Permethrin is different in that it is actually a contact insecticide.

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Insect repellents from natural sources


There are many preparations from naturally occurring sources that are repellent to certain
insects. Some of these act as insecticides while others are only repellent.

alpha-terpinene (mosquitos)

Basil -Sweet Basil (Ocimum basilicum)

Camphor (moths)

Castor oil (Ricinus communis) (mosquitos)

Cinnamon (leaf oil kills mosquito larvae)

Eucalyptus oil (70%+ eucalyptol), (cineol is a synonym), mosquitos, flies, dust mites

Fennel oil (Foeniculum vulgare) (mosquitos)

Garlic (Allium sativum) (rice weevil, wheat flour beetle)

Lavender (repels insects, although attracts bumble bees)

Lemon eucalyptus (Corymbia citriodora) essential oil and its active ingredient pmenthane-3,8-diol (PMD)

Chapter 9. Nail Products

The Nail
A nail is a horn-like envelope covering the
dorsal aspect of the terminal phalanges of
fingers and toes in humans, most non-human
primates,

and

few

other

mammals.

Fingernails and toenails are made of a tough


protein called keratin, as are animals' hooves
and horns.
Function
A healthy finger nail has the function of protecting the distal phalanx, the fingertip, and the
surrounding soft tissues from injuries. The nail acts as a counterforce when the end of the
finger touches an object, thereby enhancing the sensitivity of the fingertip, even though there
are no nerve endings in the nail itself. Finally, the nail functions as a tool, enabling for
instance a so-called "extended precision grip" (e.g. pulling out a splinter in one's finger).
Effect of nutrition
Vitamin A is an essential micronutrient for vision, reproduction, cell and tissue
differentiation, and immune function. A lack of vitamin A, vitamin D, and calcium can cause
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dryness and brittleness. Sources of these micronutrients include fortified milk, cereal, and
juices, salt-water fish, fish-liver oils, and some vegetables. Lack of Vit B 12 vitamin can lead to
excessive dryness, darkened nails, and rounded or curved nail ends. Protein is a building
material for new nails; therefore, low dietary protein intake may cause white nail beds.
Essential fatty acids play a large role in healthy skin as well as nails. Splitting and flaking of
nails may be due to a lack of linoleic acid. Iron-deficiency anemia can lead to a pale color
along with a thin, brittle, ridged texture.
Manicure Preparations

Nail Polish

Polish remover

Powder polish

Paste polish

Nail Cream

Nail bleach

Cuticle remover

Cuticle softener

Nail tint

Nail Polish
Nail polish, or nail varnish, is a lacquer applied to human fingernails or toenails to decorate
and/or protect the nail plate. Todays nail polish is simply a refined version of the paint on
vehicles.
Basic requirements:

Proper flow to produce a glossy, even film

Finished film should not be sticky

Must possess proper adhering qualities

Must not crack or peel off after application

Must be water resistant as well as soapy, slightly alkaline

Must be light proof and not fade away

The colors must be non-staining, shades must be uniform and popular

Ingredients
Most nail polishes are made of nitrocellulose dissolved in a solvent (e.g. butyl acetate or ethyl
acetate) and either left clear or colored with various pigments. Nitrocellulose is highly
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flammable. Basic components included are: film forming agents, resins and plasticizers,
solvents, and coloring agents. Adhesive polymers (e.g. tosylamide-formaldehyde resin)
ensure that the nitrocellulose adheres to the nail's surface. Plasticizers (e.g. camphor) are
chemicals that link between polymer chains, spacing them to make the film sufficiently
flexible after drying. Pigments and sparkling particles (e.g. mica) add desired color and
reflecting characteristics. In order to get that glittery/shimmer look in the color, mica,
bismuth oxychloride, natural pearls, and aluminum powder is added into the ingredients of
the nail polish. Thickening agents (e.g. stearalkonium hectorite) are added to maintain the
sparkling particles in suspension while in the bottle. Nail polish ingredients often include
toluene. Solvents such as toluene and xylene are petroleum-based products that have been
linked to cancer. Formaldehyde (formalin) may cause allergic reactions and is unsafe for use
by asthmatic people. It is a carcinogen. Nail polish makers are under pressure to reduce or
eliminate toxic ingredients, including phthalates, toluene, and formaldehyde

Formulation
Ingredients
Nitro Cellulose
Ethyl acetate
Butyl acetate
Diethyl phthalate
Camphor
Color (Dye)

(%)
10
50
20
15
4.5
0.5

Ingredients
Glycerin
Purified sulfuric ether
ZnO
Acetone
Amyl acetate
Butyl alcohol
Pure celluloid
Olive oil

(%)
0.5
4.65
15
19
18
22
20
0.5

Nail Polish Remover


Nail polish is removed with nail polish remover or nail pads, which is an organic solvent, but
may also include oils, scents and coloring. The most common type of nail polish remover
contains alcohol. It is powerful and effective, but is harsh on skin and nails, which can even
make them more brittle. Acetone is considered a volatile organic compound by the U.S.
Environmental Protection Agency. It can also be used to remove artificial nails, which are
usually made of acrylic.
Formulation
Ingredients
Butyl stearate
Ethyl acetate

(%) Ingredients
60
Butyl stearate
40

Isoprpopyl
alcohol

COSMETOLOGY LECTURE SYNOPSIS (PHR 704)

(%) Ingredients
35
Castor Oil
65

Dibutyl

(%) Ingredients
10
Glycol Methyl
40

Ether
Peanut Oil

(%)
97
2.5

phthalate
WORLD UNIVERSITY OF BANGLADESH

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Ethyl acetate

50

Perfume

0.5

Further Reading

Powder polish, Paste polish

Nail Cream, Nail bleach

Cuticle remover, Cuticle softener

Nail tint

Chapter 10: Hair Products


Hair: Structure & Composition
Scalp hair is typically 5080 m
in diameter. Chemically, hair is a
biopolymer composed largely of
cystine-cross-linked

proteins

termed keratins. Keratin is a


special protein, which is resistant
to wear and tear. It is the protein
that also makes up the nails.
Functions of Hair
Human scalp hair provides both
protective

and

cosmetic

or

adornment functions. Scalp hair


protects the head from the elements by functioning as a thermal insulator. Hair also protects
the scalp against sunburn, other effects of light radiation, and mechanical abrasion. Hair on
parts of the body other than the scalp provides related protective and adornment functions.
Eyebrows also inhibit sweat and prevent extraneous matter from running into the eyes.
Eyelashes protect the eyes from sunlight and foreign objects, and they assist in
communication. Nasal hairs filter inspired air and retard the flow of air into the respiratory
system, thus allowing air to be warmed or cooled as it enters the body.
Table 1. Ingredients Affect Hair Growth
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Promote Growth

Streptomycin,

Cyclosporin,

Diazoxide,

Estrogens,

Retard Growth

Progesterone, Spironolactone, Minoxidil, Fenasteride


Testosterone, Dihydrotestosterone, Retinoids, Eflornithine

Estradiol,

HAIR PREPARATIONS
A. Shampoos
The primary purpose of a shampoo is to clean the hair and scalp. In its cleansing process the
typical shampoo must be able to remove the various soils found on the hair and scalp, i.e,
natural oily exudates and scales. The shampoo should leave hair soft, lustrous, and in a
manageable condition without leaving a harsh, dry, raspy feel. An acceptable shampoo should
be safe for repeated use, nontoxic and nonirritating, adequately preserved, chemically and
physically stable, and not damaging to the eyes; it also should have a pleasant fragrance.
Product Forms
1. Clear Shampoo
The clarity of the shampoo offers the impression of superior cleansing and better rinsing
qualities. This is achieved through the careful selection of cleansing agents, additives, and
solubilizers. The viscosity of these products is controlled through adjustment with salt and/or
the use of alkanolamides or cellulosic thickeners.
2. Gel Shampoos
These shampoos are generally versions of the clear product but consist of higher
concentrations of the cleansing and thickening agents. They are usually packaged in tube
form for dispensing purposes.
3. Opaque Shampoos
Since clarity is not of concern with these products, less soluble cleansing agents can be used.
These shampoos also are prepared with dispersions of oils, silicones, and antidandruff
additives for specific hair and scalp treatment effects. Thickening agents are used to increase
viscosities of these shampoos in order to maintain the various opacifiers and dispersed agents
in suspension.
4. Paste Shampoos

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These shampoos represent thickened versions of opaque shampoos. They have a somewhat
firm, cream-like consistency and are packaged in jars and/or tubes. Thickening of these
systems is usually accomplished through additions of stearate soaps and electrolytes.
5. Aerosol Shampoos
These shampoos constitute a very small percentage of the market. They have been available
in two versions, ie, liquid foam types and dry spray forms.
6. Baby Shampoos
These shampoos, specifically marketed for small children, feature a non-eye stinging quality.
The majority of the products in this category are based on an amphoteric detergent system; a
system combining the use of an imidazoline amphoteric with an ethoxylated nonionic
surfactant has been successfully marketed.
7. Medicated Dandruff Shampoos
Dandruff is a scalp condition characterized by the production of excessive cellular material.
Many additives have been included in shampoo compositions to classify them as treatment
products for dandruff. These additives include antimicrobial additives, eg, quaternary
ammonium salts; keratolytic agents, eg, salicyclic acid and sulfur; heavy metals, eg, cadmium
sulfide; coal tar; resorcinol; and many others. A stronger version, incorporating the use of
higher levels of selenium sulfide in a shampoo, is available but requires a prescription for
purchase.
ZINC PYRITHIONE, also known as Zinc
Pyridine-2-Thiol-N-Oxide,
established

as

has

an

been
effective

ANTISEBORRHEIC AGENT. Because of its


limited aqueous solubility it is currently being marketed as a suspension in hair-cleansing and
hair-grooming preparation. A new study proposes that the mode of action of zinc pyrithione
arises from iron starvation of the substrate. Its antifungal effect is proposed to derive from its
ability to disrupt membrane transport by blocking the proton pump that energizes the
transport mechanism.
8. Two-in-One Shampoos
These shampoos are combination cleansing and conditioning imparting products. The
conditioning aspect is primarily the ease in wet combing, and a conditioning rinse product is
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not needed after shampooing. An important factor in the re-emergence of two-in-one


shampoos was efficient delivery of silicones to hair to make it comb easier and to impart a
smooth and soft feel. In addition to silicones, quaternaries, cationic guar gums, and polymers
are found in more recently introduced two-in-one products.
Shampoo Additives
Thickeners: Inorganic salts are also used to promote shampoo thickening. These should be
used sparingly since an excess may have a deleterious effect on a products physical stability.
Sodium chloride commonly is used in these cases. Other thickeners used include derivatives
of cellulose such as methylcellulose, hydroxypropyl methylcellulose, and cellulose gum;
natural gums such as tragacanth and xanthan (see Cellulose ethers; Gums); the carboxyvinyl
polymers; and the poly-(vinyl alcohol)s.
Opacifiers
Opaque shampoos are produced by incorporating high melting, wax-like, dispersible
materials into their preparation. Some of these materials crystallize in such a fashion that they
effect a pearlescence in the product. Opacifying agents found in shampoos include the glycol
mono- and diesters, higher fatty alcohols such as cetyl and stearyl forms, stearate soaps, and
latex copolymer emulsions.
Conditioners
Conditioning agents are added to shampoos to provide manageability properties to hair, eg,
ease of combing, detangling, and reduced static. Materials found in many products for
conditioning include lanolin and its derivatives, fatty amine oxides, cationic polymers,
cationic guar gums, fatty amines and alcohols, alkanolamides, and quaternary ammonium
compounds. Humectants, eg, glycerine, sugar, sorbitol; and oils, eg, fatty glycerides, esters,
and silicones, also are used. Other additive products include beer, egg, honey, milk, and herb
extracts for conditioning.
Preservatives
To prevent microbial growth, preservatives are added to shampoos. Among those used are
methyl and propyl parabens, DMDM hydantoin, quaternium-15, phenoxyethanol,
imidazolidinyl

urea,

and

mixture

of

methyl-chloroisothiazolinone

and

methylisothiazolinone.
Typical Shampoo formulation
No. Clear Shampoo
Ingredients

Wt (%)

COSMETOLOGY LECTURE SYNOPSIS (PHR 704)

Function

Opaque Shampoo
Ingredients
Wt (%)

WORLD UNIVERSITY OF BANGLADESH

Function
Page 51

1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.

Na-Lauryl SO4
Lauramide DEA
Methyl Paraben
Propyl Paraben
Tetra-sodium
EDTA
Fragrance
D&C Yellow
FD&C Blue
Water

10-20
4.5
0.1
0.05
0.05

Surfactant
Foam Booster
Preservative
Preservative
Sequesterant

Na-Lauryl SO4
Mg-Al-silicate
Glycol Stearate
Cocamide DEA
NaCl

10-20
0.5
3.0
3.0
0.50

Surfactant
Suspending
Opacifier
Foaming Aid
Visc. Adjuster

0.5
0004
0.0005
q.s. to 100

Fragrance
Colorant
Colorant
Diluent

Methyl Paraben
Propyl Paraben
Fragrance
Water

0.1
0.05
0.5
q.s.to 100

Preservative
Preservative
Fragrance
Diluent

Hair Conditioners
Hair Rinses
These products generally are designed to be used in conjunction with shampoos to provide
special benefits to hair, eg, wet and dry combing ease, antistatic effects, shine, manageability,
and detangling. Shampoos made with synthetic detergents are more efficient cleansers,
leaving hair less manageable and more difficult to comb. Cream rinses containing hair
substantive cationic additives. Their after-shampoo use leaves hair smooth to the touch, easy
to comb. The active ingredients in most cream rinses are quaternary ammonium compounds
such as steartrimonium chloride and cetrimonium chloride. Additives used to obtain these
effects include protein additives, silicones, and lanolin and its derivatives. Most rinses are
opaque products, although clear versions can be found, and they range in consistency from
pourable liquids to thick creams.
Hairdressings
Products associated with final grooming effects to hair are termed hairdressings. They are
used to impart not only a holding effect to hair, but also provide an added benefit of giving
hair a natural, healthy, lustrous appearance. Hairdressings can be found as liquid or cream
emulsions, gels, or as hydro-alcoholic preparations. They are usually applied by spreading the
product through the hair with the fingers and then combing for an even distribution.
Brilliantine
The primary purpose of brilliantine is to add a level of grooming and to impart sheen
attributes to hair. Brilliantine action on hair is due to formation of a thin-film coating on the
strands of hair fibers; the oil is not absorbed but provides a grooming effect. Higher viscosity
mineral oils give better grooming than the lower viscosity oils, but have poorer spread ability
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properties. To offset this aspect, high viscosity oils are sometimes diluted with other
hydrocarbons to enhance their spreading effects. Solid brilliantine and pomades may be
considered heavy-duty type hairdressings. These product types range in consistency from soft
textured to wax-like and generally have poor spreading properties when compared to liquid
versions. Their main component is petrolatum with additions of various waxes to obtain
different consistency ranges. Early formulations were prepared with naturally occurring
waxes such as spermaceti, beeswax, ceresin wax, and paraffin wax.

Clear Gel Hairdressings


Clear gel hairdressings come in two forms, ie, micro-emulsions or setting gels. Microemulsions are systems containing mineral oil which can be blended with emollients,
conditioning additives, lanolins, and protein compounds. The formation of these gels is
achieved through use of high concentrations, ie, 1040%, of ethoxylated emulsifiers based on
fatty alcohols, lanolin alcohols, sucrose fatty acid esters, and oleyl ether phosphates.
Additives used in these systems should not interfere with the clarity of the product.
Alcoholic Hair Tonics
Hairdressing products have been prepared by dilution of various oils with alcohol. This
allows for good wetting action of the alcohol and, upon its evaporation, results in a deposition
of a uniform thin layer of oil on the hair. Additives found in these products include
ethoxylated and propoxylated glycols, ethoxylated ethers, various lanolin derivatives, and
ethoxylated and propoxylated diols and triols. Because of the range in solubility which these
additives offer, products can be formulated that are less greasy and oily when compared to
those made with mineral or vegetable oils. In addition, to offer more consumer-desired
properties, alcoholic hair tonics may contain quaternary conditioners, keratolytic agents, hair
setting resins, colorants, and fragrance.
Coloring Human Hair
Bleaching
Bleach is a chemical that can remove or lighten color, usually via oxidation. Oxidizing bleach
works by breaking the chemical bonds of a chromophore (part of a molecule that has color).
This changes the molecule so that it either has no color or else reflects color outside the
visible spectrum. Low concentrations of hydrogen peroxide will chemically bleach many
types of clothing to a pinkish hue. Caution should be exercised when using common products
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that may contain hydrogen peroxide, such as facial cleaner or contact lens solution, which
easily splatter (a splash of liquid) upon other surfaces. Eg. 1ml of H 2O2 solution will liberate
10ml of O2 at standard temperature and pressure (official solution 3% H 2O2 is a 10 volume
solution). Extending this further, a 6% H 2O2 (20 volume) solutions used as hair and fabric
bleach.

Surgical Treatment of Hair Loss


Hair transplantation: In the most common form of hair transplantation, small skin plugs,
containing 15 to 20 growing terminal hairs each, are surgically removed and placed into a
smaller cylindrical hole in the balding region of the scalp. Usually several sessions of
transplantation are required involving the placement of 50 or more plugs per session, and the
placement or angling of the plugs is important to the end cosmetic effect.
Scalp reduction: In cases where the bald area is rather large, scalp reduction is done in
conjunction with hair transplantation. This method involves surgical excision of a strip of the
bald skin to reduce the total hairless area. Repeated scalp reductions can be performed
together with transplantation to provide better coverage for a bald person.
Transposition flap: The transposition flap method involves moving a flap of skin that
contains a dense area of hair to a bald area. This method is sometimes employed together
with mini-graft implantation along the frontal hairline to provide a cosmetic effect that is
more natural in appearance.
Soft tissue expansion: Soft tissue expansion is another surgical development for treatment of
alopecia. In this procedure, soft silicone bags are inserted under the skin in the hair-bearing
area of the scalp, usually in the region of the occipital area of the scalp. The bags are then
slowly filled with salt water during a two- to four-month time period. After expansion of the
hair-bearing skin, the bags are removed, the bald area of the scalp is excised, and flaps are
created with the expanded hair-bearing skin.

Further Reading

Formulation of Hair sprays, hair dyes, Hair gel, straighteners

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Prevention of hair fall

Hormonal regulation on hair growth

Depilatories (epilation, electrophoresis, chemical depilation)

Chapter 11: Colored Preparations (Lipstick/Rouge/Eye Make-Up)


Lipstick
Ingredients
Like perfumes and powders, lipsticks and glosses are simple mixtures. The ingredients used
depend on the specific properties they are meant to exhibit, such as shininess, texture,
durability, and color. People frequently lick their lips, so water solubility is an important
factor in creating lip applications. But because dyed, insoluble wax alone would be too hard
to apply, the wax is combined with ingredients to produce a substance that is stiff but still
spreadable. Most lip applications are mixtures of natural or petroleum-based wax, oily
materials, and pigments. Once the ingredients have been determined, they are melted, stirred
together, and cast into molds.
Lipstick consists of a suspension of coloring agents (pigments) in high molecular weight
hydrocarbons, waxes, and/or fats, and emollients. An ingredients list may be: dye (4-8%);
castor oil, paraffin, or fats to dissolve dye (50%); lanolin (25%); carnauba and/or beeswax as
a stiffening agent (36%); perfume (1.5%).
Wax

Alcohol

Fatty Acid

Carnauba

CH3(CH2)28CH2-OH

CH3(CH2)24COOH

Beeswax

CH3(CH2)28CH2-OH

CH3(CH2)14COOH

Spermacetic

CH3(CH2)14CH2-OH

CH3(CH2)14COOH

The oils and fats are olive oil, mineral oil, castor oil, cocoa butter, lanolin, and petroleum.
More than fifty percent of lipsticks made in the United States contain large amounts of castor
oil. It makes a strong, shiny film when it dries up after use. But, when large amounts of castor
oil are consumed, it causes the need to urinate.[Castor oil and its derivatives have
applications in the manufacturing of soaps, lubricants, hydraulic and brake fluids, paints,
dyes, coatings, inks, cold resistant plastics, waxes and polishes, nylon, pharmaceuticals and
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perfumes. The castor seed contains ricin, a toxic protein removed by cold pressing and
filtering. However, harvesting castor beans is not without risk. Allergenic compounds found
on the plant surface can cause permanent nerve damage, making the harvest of castor beans
a human health risk]. However, other moisturizers like vitamin E, aloe vera, collagen, amino
acids, and sun screen are put in lipstick. This keeps the lips soft, moisturized, and protected.
The color usually comes from a dye precipitated by a metal ion such as Fe (III), Ni(II), or
Co(II) ions. No. 27 and insoluble dyes known as lakes, such as D&C Red No. 34, Calcium
lake, and D&C Orange No. 17. Pink shades are made by mixing titanium dioxide with
various shades of red.
How to Make
The lipstick is made by first dispersing the dye in the castor oil. Then the other waxes and
lanolin are added as the mixture is heated and stirred. The molten waxes are then cast in
suitable forms to harden. Oils and lanolin are added for specific formula requirements. The
hot liquid is then poured into cold metal molds where it solidifies and is further chilled. The
formed lipstick is put through a flame for about half a second to create a smooth and glossy
finish and to remove imperfections.
Formulation
Ingredients
Castor Oil
Lanolin
Isopropyl Myristate
Propylene Glycol Monoricinoleate
PEG 400
Bees Wax
Candelilla Wax
Carnauba Wax
Ozokerite
P-Hydroxybenzoic acid propyl ester
Bromoacids
Color lake & pigments

Deep stain Lipstick

Creamy Lipstick

(%)
60
5
10
5
7
7
3
3
0.2
3
12

(%)
65
10
5
7
7
3
3
0.2
3
12

Types
From the oven to the store comes a variety of lipsticks: frosted, mattes, sheers, stains, and
long-lasting color.
Frosted lipsticks include a pearlizing agent--often a bismuth compound--that adds luster to
the color. Bismuth oxychloride, which is synthetic pearl, imparts a frost or shine. Bismuth
subcarbonate is used as a skin protective. Most bismuth compounds used in cosmetics have
low toxicity when ingested, but they may cause allergic reactions when applied to skin.
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Matte lipsticks are heavy in wax and pigment but lighter in emollients. They have more
texture than shine. Creams are a balance of shine and texture. Glosses have a high shine and
low color. Sheers and stains contain a lot of oil and a medium amount of wax with a tad of
color. Shimmers have extra glimmer, which comes from mica or silica particles. Long-lasting
color lipsticks contain silicone oil, which seals the color to your lips. Lip gloss usually comes
in jars and contains different proportions of the same ingredients as lipstick but usually has
less wax and more oil to make the lips shinier.
Lip balm or lip salve is a form of make-up topically applied to the lips of the mouth to
relieve chapped or dry lips, angular cheilitis or stomatitis, and cold sores. Lip gloss is
similar in the fact that it is topically applied to the lips of the mouth, but generally has only
cosmetic properties. The balm is usually manufactured from beeswax, petroleum jelly,
menthol, camphor, scented oils, and various other ingredients. Some manufacturers also add
vitamins, alum, salicylic acid, or aspirin. Some lip balms also contain octinoxate,
avobenzone, or other sunscreens to minimize sun damage. The primary purpose of lip balm
is to provide an occlusive layer on the lip surface to seal moisture in lips and protect them
from external exposure. Dry air, cold temperatures and wind all have a drying effect on skin
by drawing moisture away from the body. Lips are particularly vulnerable because the skin is
so thin, and thus they are often the first to present signs of dryness. Occlusive materials like
waxes and petroleum jelly prevent moisture loss and maintain lip comfort while flavorants,
colorants, sunscreens and various medicaments can provide additional, specific benefits.
Lip plumper is a cosmetics product used to make lips appear fuller. In appearance, it ranges
from translucent to opaque and tinted. A lip plumper can be formulated to be worn alone as
alip gloss. Sheerer versions can be applied under lipstick.
Lip plumpers are used by those with thinner lips when full, "pouty" lips are desired. These
products typically work by irritating the thin, delicate skin of the lips with ingredients like
menthol or camphor. This makes the lips swell slightly, which may also diminish the
appearance of fine lines in that area. Other perceived benefits include stimulating collagen
production and moisturizing. A lip plumper's effects are temporary, so it must be reapplied
throughout the day to maintain the results.
Mood/magic Lipsticks
The lipstick is made with weak acid pigments that have a conjugate base form with a
strikingly different color (that is, with acid/base indicators). The pigment is a rather complex
molecule with electrons that move freely over most of the molecular framework. The pigment
has the particular color it has because this cloud of electrons selectively absorbs only certain
wavelengths of light. Those wavelengths happen to be light in the visible range, 400 to 700
nm. When the pigment undergoes a neutralization reaction on the surface of the skin, there's a
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sharp change in the structure of the electron cloud. This sharply changes the wavelengths of
light that the pigment absorbs, and the color of the lipstick changes.
Rouge
Also called blush or blusher (UK), is a cosmetic typically used by women to redden the
cheeks so as to provide a more youthful appearance, and to emphasize the cheekbones.
Historically, rouge was used as early as in ancient Egypt. It was also applied on the lips, the
way lipstick would be used today. In some times and places, both men and women wore
rouge, such as during the Regency period in England. In modern times, rouge generally
consists of a red-colored talcum-based powder that is applied with a brush to the cheek.
Dry/Compact Rouge
The ingredients may be talc, kaolin, precipitated chalk, magnesium carbonate, titanium
dioxide, zinc stearate, certified colorants and perfumes. Zinc oxide is used to increase the
adhesion, confers opacity and usually employed from 5% to 10%. Titanium dioxide has
appreciably greater covering power, gives more brighter and stable color shades. Metallic
stearates are extensively used as dry binders for compact rouge.
Wax Based Rouge
Wax based rouges are many aspects similar to lipsticks and colors are generally of a red or
pink shade. The use of staining dyes of bromoacid type due to eosin dermatitis. When used to
disguise contours of face, these products are called gleamers.
Formulation
Compact Rouge
Ingredients
Talc
Zn-Stearate
TiO2
Red Iron Oxide
Black Iron Oxide
Barium Lake
Mica Coated TiO2
Perfume
Base (4-5%)
Beeswax
Lanolin
Mineral Oil

(%)
67.5
5
4
11.5
0.3
0.2
6.8
0.2

Wax Based Rouge


Ingredients
Carnauba Wax
Paraffin Wax
Ozokerite Wax
Petrolatum
Mineral Oil
TiO2
Red Iron Oxide
Bi-Oxychloride
Perfume

(%)
10
2.5
5
4
68.5
1.9
1
7
0.1

12
2
86

Cream Rouge
Two types are available. Non-aqueous cream rouge (difficult to apply than compact rouge but
gives more natural effects). Hexadecyl alcohol claimed to impart more soft and smooth
feeling. Emulsion type cream rouge (cold cream or vanishing cream type). Cream rouge

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using Arlacel C (Sorbitan sesquioleate) in W/O type emulsions gives soft and creamy effects
which are easy to spread. They have fewer tendencies to dry out.
Non-Aq Cream Rouge
Ingredients
Hexadecyl Alcohol
Light Mineral Oil
Talc
Ozokerite
Carnauba Wax
TiO2
D&C Red no. 9 Lake
Perfume

Emulsion Type Rouge


Phase
Ingredients
Oil Phase
Arlacel C
27
Anhydrous Lanolin
23.5
Mineral Oil
10
Petrolatum
10
Preservative
6
Aq Phase
Brilliant Red C-10
20
Alexr
3
Water
0.5
Perfume
(%)

(%)
2
2
16
30
q.s
10
5
35
q.s.

Eye Makeup:
Eyebrow pencils are very much like lipstick but contain lamp black (carbon soot) as a black
coloring agent. A different mixture of waxes may be used to give the desired melting point.
Brown pencils are made by adding iron oxide (rust) as a pigment. A water-resistant mascara
has a mixture of waxes, fats, oils, and soap. Other coloring agents in addition to blacks and
browns may be chromic oxide (dark green) and ultramarine (blue pigment of sodium and
aluminum silicate).
Mascara (Eyelash Cosmetics)
Waterproof mascara is able to adhere to lashes, and stay smooth and soft; thanks to a
chemical called dimethicone copolyol (this is a form of dimethicone, which is used in many
regular cosmetics). Many of the waterproof mascaras are also silicone based (this product is
also used in many hair shampoos, conditioners and serums).

Formulation: Waterproof Mascara


Ingredient

Ratio

Carnauba Wax

5.0

Micro Crystalline Wax.

4.0

Silicone Resin (MQ Resin)

3.0

Silicone Compound

I10.0

Dextrin Fatty Acid Ester

5.0

Denatured Clay Mineral

2.0

Proplene Carbonate

0.6

Silicic Acid Anhydride

1.0

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Eye Shadow
Eye shadow is a cosmetic that is applied on the eyelids and under the eyebrows. It is
commonly used to make the wearer's eyes stand out or look more attractive. Eye shadow adds
depth and dimension to one's eyes, complements the eye color, or simply draws attention to
the eyes. Eye shadow comes in many different colors and textures. It is usually made from a
powder and mica, but can also be found in liquid, pencil, or mousse form.
Ingredients: Common ingredients in eye shadows consist of talc, mica, sericite,
magnesium stearate, colorants, and preservatives. Fillers in eye shadows are primarily talc.
The liquid binders are typically a silicone and the dry binders are typically magnesium
stearate. In order to make an eye shadow, there has to be a balance between the fillers, dry
binders and liquid binders. Once the ideal combination is found the shadow are pressed using
700-900psi.
Use: Eye shadow can be applied in a variety of ways depending upon the desired look and
formulation. Typically application is done using fingers or brushes. The most important
aspect of applying eye shadow, and makeup in general, is blending well.
Further Reading

Formulation of Transparent Lipstick


Cake, Cream and Liquid Mascara
Cream, pressed powder and stick eye shadow
Eye Liner and Eyebrow Pencil

Chapter 12: Dentifrices & Mouth washes

Basic requirements of a dentifrice

When used properly with an efficient toothbrush it should clean the teeth adequately,
remove food debris, plaque and stains

It should leave the mouth with a fresh and clean sensation.

Its cost is such as to encourage regular and frequent use by all

It should be harmless, pleasant and convenient to use.

It should be capable of being packed economically and should be stable at storage during
its commercial shelf life.

It should conform to acceptable standards such as British standards in terms of its


abrasivity to enamel and dentine.

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If prophylactic claims are made, these should be substantiated by properly conducted


clinical trials.

Toothpastes
Toothpastes are generally either white abrasive pastes or clear gels. Although the
formulations differ, they are made from similar ingredients; these may vary from country to
country according to legislation on use of ingredients etc.
Manufacturing
Processing methods vary depending on the product type and ingredients used.
A typical process could be described as follows:
The liquid base is prepared first - water, sorbitol/glycerin and other liquid ingredients
Rheology modifiers may be pre-mixed with a non-aqueous liquid ingredient such as
glycerin or the flavoring oil, or dry blended with other powdered ingredients to aid
dispersion.
The active ingredient, sweetener and preservative are added and dispersed.
The abrasive/filler is then added. This may be supplied as a slurry, or premixed with part of
the
water prior to blending with the liquid base.
Flavoring and coloring are added
The detergent is added last under slow speed agitation to minimize foaming. It is typically
in solid form to avoid adding water to the formulation at this stage
Basic Structure: Typical ingredients and their function are shown in the table:
Ingredient
type
Liquid

Typical (%)
White
Gel
30

Function

Up to

Polyols, most commonly sorbitol (glycerin is also used) act as a

80

humectant, preventing the product from drying out and preserving the

base

texture and flavor. Polyol solutions can contain up to 30% water;


Fillers and

20-50

additional water (10-25%) completes the liquid base


15-25 Various ingredients provide the polishing action in white toothpastes;

abrasives

these include calcium carbonate, hydrated silica, sodium bicarbonate,


dicalcium phosphate and sodium metaphosphate. In clear gel type

Rheology
Modifiers

0.5-2

products, hydrated silica is used to provide polishing and body


Used to obtain several properties: the toothpaste must flow easily but
not too rapidly from the tube; it must break easily without being

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stringy; it must sit on the toothbrush without sinking in; these


ingredients are also used to keep fillers/abrasives in suspension.
Various ingredients are used, including CMC, carrageenan, xanthan
Detergent

0.5-2.5

gum, and cellulose gum


Added to make the product foam when brushing. This helps
dispersion and retention of the product in the mouth. SLS (Sodium

Active

0.3

ingredient
Flavor

Lauryl Sulphate) is most commonly used


Fluoride can be added to help prevent tooth decay. Sodium fluoride,
sodium monofluorophosphate and stannous fluoride are used, subject

0.5-2

to legislation etc.
Flavoring is added to disguise the unpleasant taste of the detergent. It
also provides freshness
Typically mint (and sometimes menthol and cinnamon) flavoring oils

Sweetener
Coloring

0.2
0.1

are used.
Sweeteners include sodium saccharinate
Titanium dioxide can be added to white toothpastes as a coloring; gel
toothpastes may be manufactured in a number of colors using food

Preservative

0.2

grade products
Sodium benzoate, ethyl paraben, methyl paraben

Components/composition
1. Colloidal binding agents - Na Alginate, methy cellulose
Function: prevent separation of the components in the tube during storage.
2. Humectants (moistens or dilutes) - glycerin
Function: reduces water loss by evaporation.
3. Preservatives - used to inhibit bacterial growth.
4. Flavoring agents
5. Abrasives - Ca carbonate, hydrated silica, Ca pyrophosphate, Na bicarbonate
Function: removal of plaque, stains, calculus.
6. Detergents - Na laurylsulphate
Function: used to reduce surface tension and enhance the removal of debris from the tooth
surface.
7. Therapeutic agents - Stannous Fl
Function: increased uptake of Fl ion leading to increased resistance of Fluorapatite to acid
Problems during toothpaste manufacturing
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Aeration is a major problem in toothpaste manufacture. All powders contain a certain amount
of air, and the detergent can exacerbate the problem. Mixing is usually carried out under
vacuum to overcome this. Other problems which can be encountered include:
Rheology modifiers tend to form lumps which are difficult to break down by agitation.
Premixing with other liquid or powdered ingredients increases process time and costs.
Some rheology modifiers require high shear in order to obtain functionality.
Some ingredients, e.g. hydrated silica have a low density and are very difficult to
incorporate and wet out.
Conventional agitators tend to cause aeration, especially when incorporating powders
Abrasives such as calcium carbonate can be supplied as a slurry. This may require
deagglomeration.
Tooth Powder
Tooth powder is a mildly abrasive powder that is used in combination with a toothbrush to
maintain oral hygiene. Since it is often significantly cheaper than toothpaste, the product
appeals to some people. The primary ingredient in a tooth powder is an abrasive to lift plaque
and food from the teeth. Baking soda is a common abrasive, along with salt or chalk. A soap
may be included to encourage the powder to foam. It may also include antibacterial
ingredients like tea tree extract, or a flavoring such as mint to make it more palatable. To use
the powder, people measure out a small amount, dip a wet toothbrush into it, and brush their
teeth as directed by a dentist. For a very basic form of tooth powder, people can take
advantage of the reaction between baking soda and peroxide, which will help to whiten the
teeth while cleaning them. Tooth powder can also be made more exciting with the addition of
food-grade essential oils and extracts. Ingredients like mint and tea tree oil can leave the
mouth feeling clean and crisp, while cinnamon can help fight microbes in the mouth and it
will leave a warm feeling behind. The powder can be kept in a tin or jar in the bathroom.
Formulation
Oxygenated Powder
Ingredients
Precipitated Calcium carbonate
Na-lauryl SO4
Mg-peroxide
Flavoring, Sweetener

Fluoride Powder
(%) Ingredients
96
Dicalcium Phosphate Dihydrate
2
Precipitated Calcium carbonate
2
Na-lauryl SO4
q.s Na-monofluorophosphate
Flavoring, Sweetener

(%)
75
23
1
0.8
q.s.

Mouthwash Formulation

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Ingredient

Function

Alcohol

Adds bite and freshness. Enhances flavor impact.


Helps solubilize some flavor components. Contributes
to cleansing action and antibacterial activity.

Flavor

Makes mouthwash pleasant to use. Adds a refreshing,


cool quality to oral cavity immediately and for some
time after use. Makes breath temporarily pleasant by
imposing a pleasant note over breath aroma. Some
flavors exert significant antibacterial effect.

Humectant

Adds "body" to product, inhibits crystallization around


closure.

Surfactant

Used for solubilization of flavor. Provides foaming


action. Assists removal of oral debris by lowering
surface tension. Can be antibacterial. (Selection is
critical in antibacterial mouthwashes; must be
compatible with antibacterial active.)

Water
Special ingredients:
Antibacterial agent
Astringent salts
Chlorophyllins
Fluoride

Major vehicle to carry other ingredients.


To enhance antibacterial efficacy.
Can interact with proteins of saliva and oral mucosa.
For topical deodorization.
Anticaries agent.

Chapter 13: Cosmetic Ingredients


Chemistry of Consumer Products
Selecting from more than 5,000 different ingredients, each with its own essential function,
cosmetic chemists combine water, oils, color, emulsifiers, preservatives, thickeners, and
fragrances in different ways to produce formulations, or mixtures, designed to alter or protect
users' appearance or scent. The process a chemist follows is an orderly description of each
task that must be accomplished to make the product.
Ingredient selection is a critical step in cosmetic manufacturing because the ingredients
determine the properties and effectiveness of the final product. Most cosmetic products are
mixtures of two or more liquids (e.g., perfumes), two or more solids (e.g., powders), or a
combination of liquids and solids (e.g., lipsticks). Mixing ingredients together does not, by
itself, create a new substance or substances, so no chemical change is said to occur. Because
the original ingredients retain their chemical properties, they remain present in a mixture and
can be separated by physical means, such as distillation, evaporation, or precipitation.
While waxes, oils, and pigments are commonly recognized ingredients of most cosmetics,
others, such as emulsifiers, might need some explaining. A colloid is a mixture in which
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particles of one phase (solid, liquid, or gas) are distributed within and throughout another. For
example, an emulsion is a type of colloid in which both phases are liquids. Creams and
lotions are all emulsions of water and oily materials. Because water and oil do not readily
mix, ingredients called emulsifiers are added to make the formulation work. Emulsifiers
change the surface tension between two otherwise unmixable materials, thereby preventing
their separation. Emulsifiers, then, are what enable a product to be applied to the skin with an
even texture.
Surfactants
Most emulsifiers can be considered surfactants or surface-active agents. These materials are
able to reduce the surface tension of water. What makes an emulsifier surface active is related
to its HLB, or hydrophile-lipophile balance. HLB is determined by the size of the hydrophilic
(water-loving or polar) portion of a molecule as compared to the size of the lipophilic (oilloving or nonpolar) portion. The HLB system was created to rank the relative polarity of
materials. The most polar, water soluble, materials are at the top of the twenty-point scale
with more non-polar, oil soluble, materials closer to zero. The HLB of sodium caseinate is
assigned a value of around fourteen because of it's high solubility in water. Lecithin, being
poorly soluble in water, has an HLB value of about six. Both have polar groups. The polar
group in the milk protein is sodium. Lecithin's surface-active component is a molecule called
phosphotidylcholine or PC (See Figure 1). The polar, or water soluble part of PC is the
phosphate functional group. The emulsifiers' polar groups orient toward the polar water
phase. Their lipophilic, nonpolar groups oriented toward the oil phase to form micelles (see
Figure 2). These spherical structures provide stability to the emulsion through Hydrogen
bonding and weak electrical forces.

Figure 1. Phosphatidylcholine (PC)

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Figure 2. Surfactant.
Skin-care emulsifiers can be divided into two groups based on ionic charge (See Figure 3).
Materials that can dissociate into charged species are considered ionic while those that do not
are called nonionic. Ionic emulsifiers can be further classified by type of charge. Anionics are
negatively charged when solvated as in sodium stearate or soap.
When fatty acids are reacted with alkali they form soaps. The process of soap formation is
called saponification. The negatively charged stearic acid group is the main emulsifying unit
of the soap, giving it the anionic classification. Positively charged emulsifiers are called
cationic. Quarternium24's emulsifying unit dissociates into the positively charged ammonium
group. Amphoterics are compounds that express both negative and positive charges.
Nonionic emulsifiers are often used in skin-care emulsion for their safety and low reactivity.
They are generally classified by chemical similarity. Glycerin, commonly added to cosmetic
emulsions for its humectant properties, is the backbone of a class of emulsifiers called
Glycery esters. Glyceryl monostearate, or GMS, is called a monoester because of its sole
ester linkage (see Figure 4). The diester is prepared by esterifying two molecules of stearic
acid for every molecule of glycerin. Glyceryl mono- and diesters are very effective
emulsifiers because they contain both polar hydroxyl (OH) groups as well as non-polar fatty
acids. If all three of Glycerin's hydroxyl groups are reacted, the resulting triester will have
little emulsifying capability.
Stearic acid is called C18 fatty acid. The fatty acids, present in fats and oils, are classified
according to their carbon-chain lengths. Because stearic acid is a major component of many
of the fats and oils used in beauty treatments, stearate-based emulsifiers are particularly
useful. Fatty acids are key components of many cosmetic emulsifiers due their miscibility in
a variety of natural and synthetic oils.

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Figure 3. Structures of emulsifiers.

Figure 4. Direct esterification of glycerine.


Esters polyethylene glycol or ethylene glycol are called PEG esters. A PEG ester's solubility
is determined by the number of PEG molecules reacted per molecule of acid. PEG 6 oleate
for instance has six molecules of PEG reacted with one molecule of oleic acid. As the number
of polar, PEG molecules per acid molecule increases the water solubility/HLB is increased;
PEG 8 oleate is more soluble than PEG 6 oleate. The cosmetic chemist will often use blends
of glyceryl esters and a PEG ester with high and low HLB values to determine the required
polarity to emulsify various fats and oils. The many types of emulsifiers are too numerous to
list here, however McCutcheon's Emulsifiers and Detergents is an excellent source for a more
complete listing.
Emollients
Emollients are substances that soften and soothe the skin. They are used to correct dryness
and scaling of the skin. They are a key component in the manufacture of lipstick, lotions, and
other cosmetic products. The terms "moisturizer" (something that adds moisture) and
"emollient" (something that softens) are sometimes used interchangeably, as they describe
different effects of these agents on the skin. However, the term emollient is most often used
to describe single ingredients, whereas "moisturizer" describes finished products. Emollient
can also be used to describe a person as soft and soothing. The majority of emollients used in
personal care and beauty items are fats and oils, also called lipids. Animal fat or tallow is
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composed primarily of stearic and palmitic acids with carbon chains lengths of 18 and 16
respectively. Many of the major cosmetic companies are moving away from animal-based
materials like tallow to renewable vegetable-based materials. Coconut oil and palm kernel oil
are often used. Some of the key characteristics required in good emollients are good
spreading properties, low toxicity/skin irritation and good oxidative stability. Oleic acid, a
major constituent of olive oil has poor oxidative stability due to the presence of its double
bond. Fats and oils are considered saturated if they do not have double bonds. Unsaturated
oils like olive oil have double bonds that can react with oxygen, especially when heated. The
oxidation process can produce off colors and odors in lipids causing them to go rancid and
unusable. Petroleum-based emollients such as petroleum jelly and mineral oil are found in
many formulations because they do not contain double bonds or reactive functional groups.
Silicone oils such as cyclomethicone, dimethicone are often added to increase slip and
emolliency (See Figure 5). Oils that contain high levels of essential fatty acids, EFAs, are
prized for their ability to replenish lipids (oils) that are found naturally within the skin layers.
Linoleic acid is an example of an EFA. Long-chain alcohols, also called fatty alcohols, are
useful as emollients and emulsion stabilizers. Their polar hydroxyl groups orient to the water
phase with their fatty chains oriented towards the oil phase. Esters of fatty alcohols and fatty
acids make excellent emollients because of their low reactivity and good stability.
Lanolin, derived from sheep's wool, is often called wool grease. Lanolin has been used for
centuries due to it's unique composition of complex sterols, fatty alcohols, and fatty acids.
Cholesterol, a cyclic molecule called

Figure 5. Dimethicone and cyclomethicone.


a sterol, is a major component. The polar hydroxyl groups of sterols and alcohols enable the
grease to absorb and hold water. Skin is primarily composed of water, countless oils and
emollients are used to nourish and protect it.
Moisturizers
The main distinction between moisturizers and emollients is their solubility in water. Healthy
skin requires moisture. Moisturizers are generally polar materials that are hygroscopic in
nature; they hold onto water. An important tool to assess the efficiency of moisturizers is the
high scope. It measures trans-epidermal water loss or TEWL. After a moisturizer is applied to
the skin, the moisture level is recorded. After several minutes the moisture level will be
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reduced due to the natural tendency of the skin to release moisture over time. Ingredients that
can maintain a high level of moisture in the upper layers of the skin for several hours can
reduce the rate at which water is lost. Glycerin is a very cost-effective ingredient used to help
reduce TEWL. Sorbitol, sucrose, glucose, and other sugars are also commonly used to
hydrate the skin. Aloe, which contains a mixture of polysaccharides, carbohydrates, and
minerals, is an excellent moisturizer. As skin becomes drier in the winter months, it may be
necessary to incorporate materials that better seal the moisture in the skin.
Waxes
Waxes are composed primarily of long-chain esters that are solid at room temperature.
Anyone who has ever dipped a finger in molten wax has experienced its sealing properties.
Some common waxes used in cosmetics are beeswax, candelilla, carnauba, polyethylene, and
paraffin. The melting points of waxes vary widely depending on their unique composition
and chain lengths. Commonly used in lip balms and sticks, waxes function as structuring
agents, giving the stick enough rigidity to stand up on its own, as well as barrier properties.
By combining waxes with different properties such as high shine, flexibility, and brittleness,
optimal cosmetic performance can be achieved. Often waxes are combined with compatible
oils to achieve the desired softness. Compatibility is generally determined by gauging the
turbidity and degree of separation of two materials mixed together above their melt points.
Waxes are particularly useful in hand creams and mascara emulsions for their thickening and
waterproofing properties.
Thickeners
By incorporating enough wax into a thin lotion, a thick cream can be formed. Many
thickeners are polymers. Cellulose, a fine powder polymer of repeating

Figure 6. Cellulose and carbopol.


D-glucose units, swells in hot water creating a gel network. Carbopol, a polyacrylic acid,
swells when neutralized (See Figure 6). Bentone clays swell when their structure, resembling
a stack of cards, is opened up through mechanical shear. Carrageenan, pectin, and locust bean
gum are all examples of cosmetic thickeners that are also used in some of our favorite foods
such as jellies, salad dressings, and pie fillings.
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Active Ingredients
Materials that work physiologically within the skin or aid in protecting the skin from insult
are also called active ingredients. The term "cosmeceuticals" refers to a product that is inbetween a cosmetic and a drug. Fruit acids are an example of an active material. Also called
alpha hydroxyacids or AHAs, they have the ability to penetrate the skin, where they can
increase the production of collagen, elastin, and intracellular substances thus improving the
appearance of the skin. Thousands of cosmetic actives are used to affect the skin in a variety
of ways. They are used to lighten, tighten, and firm the skin. They can be used to suppress
perspiration as in the case of aluminum chlorohydrate. Salicylic acid and benzoyl peroxide
are important ingredients because of their anti-acne activity (See Figure 7). Some active
materials are added to skin treatments to protect the skin from the environment. Dimethicone
and petrolatum are examples of skin protectants.

Figure 7. Structure of Benzoyl peroxide.

Color
Pigments and dyes are used in products to impart a color. Titanium dioxide (TiO 2) is a white
pigment that is mined. In combination with natural mined and synthetic iron oxides, which
range in color from red, yellow, black and brown, depending upon the degree of oxidation
and hydration, a range of color can be produced that will be suitable for almost every skin
tone. Face powders are produced by blending inorganic oxides and fillers. Fillers are inert,
generally inexpensive materials such as kaolin, talc, silica, and mica that are used to extend
and fully develop colors. Pressed powders like eyeshadows and blushers are prepared by
blending additional binding ingredients such as oils and zinc stearate and pressing the
mixture into pans.
Eye shadows and lipsticks often contain pearlescent pigments commonly called pearls. Pearls
sparkle and reflect light to produce a multitude of colors. They are prepared by precipitating a

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thin layer of color on thin platelets of mica. Varying the thickness of the color deposited
changes the angle of light refracted though the composite, creating different colors.
Organic pigments are used to color lipsticks and eyeshadows. When organics are precipitated
on a substrate they are called lake pigments. The term lake refers to the laking or precipitating
of the organic salt onto a metal substrate such as aluminum, calcium, or barium. They are
called D&C (drug and cosmetic) and FD&C (food, drug and cosmetic) colors. Some
examples are D&C Red#7 calcium lake and FD&C Yellow #5 aluminum lake. Dyes such as
FD&C Blue#1 and D&C Yellow #10 are readily soluble as opposed to pigments, which are
insoluble. Dyes are useful in providing tints for lotions, oils, and shampoos.
Preservatives
Most cosmetic products require the addition of preservative to prevent microbial
contamination and rancidity. Parabens and ester of parabenzoic acid are by far the most
commonly

used

because

of

their

effectiveness

against

gram-positive

bacteria.

Phenoxyethanol is used to protect against gram -ve strains. The cosmetic chemist will
generally employ a mixture of preservatives to protect against different bacterial strains as
well as yeasts and molds. Antioxidants such as tocopherol (vitamin E) and BHT are also
added to prevent oxidation of sensitive ingredients as well as protect the skin from freeradical damage.
Further Reading
Glossary & Dictionary of Cosmetic Ingredients
www.makingcosmetics.com/cosmeticdictionary

Chapter 14: Cosmetic Manufacturing

COSMETIC PRODUCT FORMULTIONS


Selection of a proper product form is important in order to achieve the criteria of marketing
and technical attributes desired in the final system. One must balance the desired consumer
perceived benefits with the technical ability in the formula to deliver such benefits.
SOLUTIONS

These are the simplest forms of cosmetic products. Are characterized as liquid systems in
which all of the constituents are soluble.

Solutions can be water or oil based systems and are easy to manufacture as they usually
consist of utilizing a single mixing vessel where the main diluents is added and then
mixing in one ingredient after another.

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In most cases heating and/or cooling are not required to achieve a homogenous solution ;
the only thing needed is adequate mixing of the components.

Even though solutions are easy to produce from a manufacturing perspective, they do
possess the downside of offering little functionality. Many functional cosmetic ingredients
have limited or no solubility in water and require other product forms.

CREAMS

Most cosmetic cream formulations are emulsions which are defined as a heterogeneous
system composed of an immiscible liquid dispersed as droplets in another liquid.

Emulsified cream products can be O/W or W/O systems depending on the continuous
phase.

Most (75 % +) of cosmetic creams are of the OIL-IN-WATER type with an oil phase
ranging from 10%-25%. Typical products that use creams are Shaving products , Skin
care, Antiperspirants, etc.

Most cream formulations of cosmetic products are well perceived by the consumer and
have aesthetic appeal.

However, since this dosage form is an emulsion they are inherently unstable and proper
stability testing must be done in the lab before releasing for actual manufacturing on a
large scale.

LOTIONS

This is the type of product form that is used in applications, where a less viscous dosage
form is desired from a rheological perspective. They can be defined as thin creams.

As these products are also emulsions in nature they are less greasy to the touch and are
lighter in texture to the consumer.

From a manufacturing perspective lotions are easier to produce as they are less viscous
and heating and cooling times are lessened.

From a rheological perspective, it is important to remember that lotions are less stable
thermodynamically from creams because the higher viscosity of a cream will slow down
the natural destabilizing forces.

Examples of products that utilize the lotion form are :

Skin and Facial Lotions

Hair Conditioners

Moisturizing Cleansers

OINTMENTS AND PASTES

This type of product form is utilized when there is a desire for a formula to be extra
viscous in consistency.

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They are thicker than creams and can be total anhydrous systems or contain a very low
amount of water. Most are heavy or greasy as they contain lanolin, petroleum and mineral
oil as the main constituents.

It is important to note that since this product form are essentially oil based systems, they
present few stability issues ( outside of rancidity or lipid oxidation ) and do not have
microbiological contamination issues.

Because of their high viscosity or thickness, problems in manufacturing can arise


especially in compounding and filling.

Examples of products that are ointments in nature are :

Hair Pomades

Medicated Skin Products

Ethnic Hair Treatment Items

SUSPENSIONS

This product form is related to emulsions, are usually water-based formulations which
contain larger, often visible products suspended throughout.

They can range in viscosity and this type of product form offer a unique visual effect to
the consumer not observed in other cosmetic products.

By means of suspensions one can deliver non compatible ingredients.

From a stability perspective, suspensions usually contain either an inorganic thickener or


structurizing polymer which lock the particles in place. This counteracts instability such
as Van Der Waals or hydrophobe/ lipophobe interactions

Production of suspensions is generally easier than producing emulsions as separate


mixing kettles are rarely required.

Examples of suspensions are :

(encapsulated emollients)

Sunscreen lotions with titanium dioxide or zinc oxide

Calamine lotion

Antiperspirant sticks

GELS

This product form can be defined as clear, shear thinning formulations. They are
composed usually of water or alcoholic solutions gelled or thickened with specific gelling
agents such as natural gums, acrylic polymer or cellulosic type polymers.

There is a special type of gel system which can be made called a micro emulsion or
RINGING gel that vibrates or rings when you tap the container.

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In the manufacturing process large scale production is complicated by their high viscosity.
AIR entrapment is common place during this manufacturing mode and careful mixing is
required to avoid this from happening.

Examples of gels include:


Shower Gels
Shaving Gels
Toothpastes
Ethnic Shine Hair Products (Microemulsion)

STICKS

This is a product type which can be used to deliver insoluble materials such as fragrances,
pigments, emollients and specific active ingredients.

They are usually opaque but can, in some cases, be formulated as clear products.

Sticks can be made as a sodium stearate type or as a pure stick from high melting point
ingredients such as waxes, hydrogenated oils and esters.

Stick formulations have good stability profiles as their solid structure inhibits most
destabilizing processes.

Examples of stick personal care products are:


Deodorant sticks
Antiperspirant sticks
Hair styling sticks
Lipsticks

POWDERS

Powders present the simplest form of a solid dosage form. They consist of solid raw
materials blended together in a fine mixture.

Common ingredients that are utilized in the formulation of powders include:


Talc
Starch
Titanium dioxide
Silicates
Powders are a relatively stable product form and during the manufacturing
process involving specialized mixing equipment, it becomes critical to
avoid contamination with water.

Examples of powder personal care products are:


Baby powders
Anti-fungal powders

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Body talc
AEROSOLS

In contrast to the product forms discussed earlier, aerosols depend more on the packaging
for their existence than the ingredients.

Aerosols are composed of a concentrate solution that is filled into a metal can after being
pressure-filled with a propellant that is hydrocarbon or freon based.

In compounding the active materials are mixed with the solvent and then this concentrate
is filled into the can. The propellant is added and the can is sealed.

Stability issues are primarily of can corrosion and can be prevented by adding corrosion
inhibitors to the formula with high water contents.

Examples of aerosol personal care products are :

Shaving creams

Hair sprays

Aerosol antiperspirants & deodorants

Feminine deodorant products

Further Reading
Basic laboratory equipment, Stability parameters & testing
Instability type and incompatibility issues
Pilot Plant scale up and QC parameters
Manufacturing in the plant environment

Chapter 15: Regulation of Cosmetics


FDCA Definition Articles intended to be rubbed, poured, sprinkled, or sprayed on,
introduced into, or otherwise applied to the human body...for cleansing, beautifying,
promoting attractiveness, or altering the appearance." Included in this definition are products
such as skin moisturizers, perfumes, lipsticks, fingernail polishes, eye and facial makeup
preparations, shampoos, permanent waves, hair colors, toothpastes, and deodorants, as well
as any material intended for use as a component of a cosmetic product.
Cosmetic Regulation
FDA is only able to regulate cosmetics after products are released to the marketplace

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No cosmetic products or cosmetic ingredients are reviewed or approved by FDA before


they are sold to the public
Animal Testing
Law does not specifically mandate animal testing for cosmetic safety
FDA strongly urges cosmetic manufacturers to conduct whatever tests are appropriate to
establish that their cosmetics are safe
FDA believes that the use of animals remains necessary to ensure the safety of cosmetic
ingredients and products.
Cosmetics
FDA cannot require companies to do safety testing of their cosmetic products before
marketing
If the safety of a cosmetic product has not been substantiated, the product's label must
read:
WARNING: The safety of this product has not been determined."
FDA does not have the authority to require manufacturers to register their cosmetic
establishments, file data on ingredients, or report cosmetic-related injuries
FDA maintains a voluntary data collection program
Companies that wish to participate in the program forward data to FDA.
Cosmetic Recalls
FDA is not permitted to require recalls of cosmetics but does monitor companies that
conduct a product recall
If FDA wishes to remove a cosmetic product from the market, it must first prove in a
court of law that the product may be injurious to users, improperly labeled, or otherwise
violates the law
FDA collects cosmetic product samples as part of its plant inspections, import
inspections, and complaints of adverse reactions
FDA acts through the Department of Justice to remove adulterated and misbranded
cosmetics from the market
Domestic and foreign manufacturers must follow the same regulations
Labeling Cosmetics
Regulations require ingredients to be listed on product labels in descending order by
quantity
Based on the amount used, an ingredient such as water is usually found at the beginning
of the product's ingredient listing
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Color additives and fragrances, used in small amounts, are normally seen at the end of the
ingredient listing.
Cosmetic ingredient declaration regulations apply only to retail products intended for
home use
Products used exclusively by beauticians in beauty salons and labeled For Professional
Use Only
Cosmetic samples are not required to include the ingredient declaration. Must state the
distributor, list the content's quantity, and include all necessary warning statements.
FDA regulates only the labeling that appears on cosmetic products themselves
Unfair and deceptive advertising that appears in magazines, in newspapers, or on
television falls under the authority of the Federal Trade Commission
Puffery
Promotion of "gimmick" additives, combined with more sophisticated cosmetic
ingredients
Lotion contained bovine albumin and the label claimed it would give a "face lift without
surgery
Exaggerated claims of beauty or long-lasting effects
Product claims should be based on skin care realities, promises banked on achievable
benefits
In the past, cosmetic manufacturers have depended upon mysterious gimmick additives,
such as turtle oil to promote skin rejuvenation or tighten chin muscles, shark oil, queen
bee royal jelly, chick embryo extract, horse blood serum, and pigskin extracts.
Cosmetic claims, even those considered "puffery," are allowed without scientific
substantiation
But if a cosmetic makes a medical claim, such as removing dandruff, the product is
regulated as a drug for which scientific studies demonstrating safety and efficacy must be
submitted
Alcohol Free
In cosmetic labeling, the term alcohol, used by itself, refers to ethyl alcohol
To prevent the ethyl alcohol in a cosmetic from being diverted illegally for use as an
alcoholic beverage, it must contain an added "denaturant" that makes it undrinkable
Cosmetic manufacturers market cosmetic products that do not contain ethyl alcohol as
alcohol free
Hypoallergenic
Manufacturers claim produce fewer allergic reactions than other cosmetic product
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No regulations that govern the use of the term "hypoallergenic


Term means whatever a particular company wants it to mean
Cosmetics labeled as hypoallergenic are not required to submit substantiation of their
hypoallergenicity claims to FDA
Cosmoceuticals
Products that are cosmetics but are also intended to treat or prevent disease, or affect the
structure or functions of the human body
Considered to be drugs and must comply with both the drug and cosmetic provisions of
the law
Flouride toothpaste, hormone creams, sun tanning preparations, antiperspirants that are
also deodorants, and antidandruff shampoos.
Summary
FDA does not pre-approve cosmetic products or ingredients, with the important exception
of color additives
Cosmetic firms are responsible for marketing safe, properly labeled products; using no
prohibited ingredients; and adhering to limits on restricted ingredients
Considered good practice to follow industry safety guidelines and recommendations.
Must carry warning if safety no determined but can still market product
FDA must go to court to remove a cosmetic from the market
Different labeling requirements for different markets
Does not include all labeling
FTC regulates ads (unfair and deceptive)
Puffery is OK

Books Recommend For Further Reading


1. Chemistry and Technology of the Cosmetics and Toiletries Industry D.F. Williams and
W.H. Schmitt, Hardcover 1992, Kluwer Academic Publications.
2.

Harrys Cosmetology J.B. Wilkinson * R.J. Moore, 7 th Edition, Longman Scientific &
Technical.

3.

Modern Cosmetics Perfumes, Cosmetics and Soaps, Vol. I, II and III W.A. Poucher,
8th edition, Chapman & Hall, London.

4. Cosmetics Science and Technology Vol 1 and 2 M.S. Balsam, Edward Sagarin
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5. Textbook of Cosmetics M. Vimaladevi


6. Handbook of Pharmaceutical Excipients Raymond-Paul
7. Remington The Science and Practice of Pharmacy

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