What Is Composting?

Composting is a natural biological process that is carried out by various natural microorganisms, including
bacteria and fungi that utilize solid waste as an energy source and break down organic material into
simpler substances. These microorganisms require air, water, and an energy source. Therefore, it is
necessary to maintain proper environmental conditions for microbial life within the compost pile. Under
proper conditions worms, insects, etc. can speed the decomposition process. In addition, the use of
CBCT can initiate and accelerate the composting process and provide good quality compost in a narrow
time window.

Compost is decayed, organic plant matter. Composting is the result of a complex feeding pattern
where aerobic microbes (bacteria and fungi that thrive on oxygen) feed on organic waste and
break it down into a nutritious soil amendment. As the compost is mixed and aerated, these
organic materials break down into a rich substance the same way that plants decay and are
recycled in any ecosystem. This in turn creates fluffy, arable soil known as humus. All organic
matter breaks down into compost over time, but the decomposition process on its own can take
quite a while. Composting creates a controlled environment to rapidly convert waste into a
powerful, nutrient-rich matter that is ideal in your garden, on your lawn, or in your potted plants.

How To Compost
Composting is a dynamic process; it takes skill and the ideal conditions to aid the decomposition
process.

Factors effecting composting

The rate at which breakdown occurs depends on several factors: oxygenation, temperature, water
content, particulate surface area, and the carbon to nitrogen ratio. If you pay attention to these
things, the temperature will rise to around 130-140 degrees, ensuring rapid decomposition.
Moisture is key—your compost should feel damp, but never wet. When it’s over inoculated, it
limits the oxygen that bacteria require. The rule of thumb is that it should be as wet as a well-
wrung sponge. Similarly, if your compost is too dry, bacteria cannot survive, thereby slowing
down the decomposing process. If your pile doesn’t heat up, it’s possible that your compost pile
is too wet, too dry, or there is not enough protein (greens). You can measure the temperature
with a compost thermometer

Aeration is equally important, as your compost needs oxygen to decompose. Keep your compost
pile breathing by turning it by hand with a pitchfork. A compost tumbler takes out this step by
aerating the compost for you as it tumbles in the bin. Look for ones with vents on the side to
keep your compost properly aerated. If you don’t have a compost tumbler, try a metal aerator
that will help take some of the work out of turning the pile.

Almost all organic material works in a compost pile.

You’re aiming for a good balance between carbon-
rich matter (“browns”) and nitrogen-rich materials
(“greens”). Brown materials are things like dried
leaves, wood chips and straw, whereas greens
constituted grass clippings and kitchen scraps. Active
composting requires finding the right mix for your
compost pile. Ideally, the ratio is 25:1 (25 parts
brown to 1 part green), but it can vary—too much
carbon will slow the process, while too much nitrogen will cause odor. This is where owning a
chipper shredder is quite handy, since you need leaves and wood chips for browns. It also may
be worth it to save yard waste, because as the seasons change, it becomes harder to find what you
need. Although you can compost all year long, the decomposition rate will slow down as
temperatures drop. Consider stockpiling winter organics in a covered container stored outside so
you can add them to your compost bin or tumbler in the spring. Store fallen leaves from autumn
in bags that you can use later during the spring and summer; likewise, keep grass clipping and
other greens around during the winter months (they can last about one to two weeks).

Choosing a good composting site will help speed up the process. Start building your compost
over soil or lawn instead of on a patio so you can take advantage of earthworms and microbes.
Look for an area that’s level and well-drained. If you’re adding kitchen scraps, keep it near the
back door, but not so far away you’ll forget it’s there. If you live in a cooler climate, put the pile
in a sunny spot so it can trap solar heat, and find it some shelter during the winter months so the
decaying process doesn’t slow down. If you live in a warmer climate, keep the pile in a shadier
spot so it won’t dry out. And remember to look for a spot that will allow you to compost
unobtrusively; try to distance it from the neighbor’s yard and put up visual barriers. A compost
bin will keep it contained, and is easier to manage than an open compost pile.

Shredded organic materials heat up and decompose faster. The smaller the composting pieces,
the faster the pile with decay. Add new materials, remembering to layer them. Mixing distributes
microorganisms evenly allows for faster decomposition at the same time, so that there is a more
balanced carbon to nitrogen rate, as well as better moisture and air migration. The goal is to
create an active, hot batch of compost, so the more effort you put into your pile, the more black
gold you’re going to get!

After you’ve attained the right mix of browns and greens, the right amount of moisture, and the
ideal aeration and heat from turning, your batch of compost will be well on its way to becoming
the soil amendment your plants so desperately crave. However, it would be irresponsible to give
an exact time frame for when waste becomes humus, as several factors will impact how quickly
breakdown occurs. Peak seasons for composting are spring and autumn, when the atmosphere is
warm and damp. Piles created during this time, with shredded materials that are frequently
aerated, can be ready in approximately 2-4 months. Properly tended soft waste in warm weather
can take as little as 4-6 weeks. Piles prepared in the winter or late fall, created with larger or
tougher pieces of waste, or left unattended, will take longer to decay.

When your compost is done, it will be approximately half of its original size. You should not be
able to discern individual items you placed in the bin. Look for a dark color, crumbly texture,
and earthy smell. Slimy compost is a sign that the process was done incorrectly at some point. If
you experience trouble with clumps or mats, organize your organic wastes into thinner layers,
and use aerators or a pitchfork to work your pile.

Many people think that composting is a smelly process—it’s not true! If you properly manage
your compost pile, you should not be producing offensive odors. Compost should have an earthy,
pleasant smell similar to a forest floor after rain. If you do smell something suspicious, odor
problems are easily fixed, so don’t become discouraged.

Soon after your compost pile is established, you should begin seeing sundry little critters
throughout the pile contents. These helpers, which usually migrate from other parts of the garden
or the soil beneath the pile, can range from arthropods and flying insects to microorganisms like
bacteria and fungi. Don’t be alarmed! They are all part of the soil-borne community that is
critical to the decomposition process. Do not attempt to eradicate or remove these beneficial
creatures, and do not use any chemicals or sprays that would normally harm them. Let them
flourish and your compost will flourish with them. If possible, use rainwater from a rain barrel to
moisten the pile, as chlorinated municipal water sources can slow down the natural rate of
breakdown.

For your convenience, we’ve provided a chart describing the factors that could affect your
compost. Use it as a quick reference and guide:
Factors
Affecting description
Rate
Oxygen is required for respiration by all aerobic inhabitants within the
pile. Aerobic microbes decompose waste at a faster rate than their
anaerobic brethren, and would not produce the foul odors associated
with anaerobic decomposition. Adequate ventilation and manually
Oxygenation turning or mixing your pile with aerators or pile turners twice a month
increases its rate of decomposition. An unmixed pile may take three to
four times longer before it breaks down. If purely manual mixing is
not to your fancy, you can invest in a compost tumbler that aerates by
turning.
Heat is a byproduct of decomposition and accelerates the process. The
optimum temperature for fast decomposition is between 90 and 135
degrees F. Whether it is due to cold climate or insufficient bacterial
Temperature activity, when the temperature falls below this, decomposition will
slow, but not cease. To keep temperatures elevated, try an insulation
jacket or better placement for maximizing radiant solar heat. Also
choose black colored bins in cooler climate zones.
 An efficient composter needs to have a moisture content of
approximately 50% (it should feel like a damp towel) for microbial
activity. If it is too dry, decomposition will slow down considerably,
while overly wet piles can trigger anaerobic conditions and begin to
Water Content
smell. Keep the pile covered during heavy rains, so that valuable
nutrients are not washed away. Add rain water from your rain barrel
when dry spells occur (chlorine in municipal water can kill the
organisms in your living system).
Maximize this by shredding and chipping all clippings and waste into
Surface Area small pieces with a chipper/shredder. The more surface area you
expose for microorganisms to attack, the faster the decomposition.
Organic materials rich in nitrogen are referred to as GREENS (fresh
veggie scraps or grass clippings), while the others can be lumped
Carbon: together as BROWNS (hay, twigs, dried leaves). A good general rule
Nitrogen Ratio of thumb is use 2-3 parts brown to 1 part green. When initially
building your pile, always remember to layer, layer, layer! Alternating
layers ensures proper mixing.

Let’s review how to setup a composting station:

1. Choose a moderately sunny, accessible area for your composter. If you’re using a
compost bin, turn the soil in your chosen location.
2. Start your green and brown layering process, beginning with a layer of small branches at
the bottom that will allow for proper circulation and drainage.
3. Top off your new pile with finished compost or good garden soil to ensure an
introduction of bacteria to your waste.
4. Aerate regularly by mixing, checking moisture content.

Harvest the finished compost, and you’re all set to enjoy a beautiful, healthy garden!

. Dos and Don'ts

What to put in your compost bin:
Almost anything botanical will work in your compost bin. Dead leaves during fall are
outstanding, since they can help improve all soil types and aerate heavy clay soils. A lawn
sweeper is a good idea to help collect leaves—it’s much faster than raking and picks up leftover
foliage better. Tree limbs and branches turned into wood chips and sawdust are also great,
although these need to be chopped or shredded. Again, having a chipper shredder around will
make this job a lot easier.
Grass clippings decompose quickly and have as much nitrogen as manure, but you need to mix
them well with plenty of browns so that they don’t become anaerobic and clump together.
Seedlings, dead plants and decapitated flower heads should also be thrown in as green materials.
Spoiled hay or straw is a great carbon (brown) material. Seaweed is another great source for
composting, but be sure to wash off the salt first.

Manure is a given; it contains both nitrogen and microbes,

in addition to being full of nutrients. Use manure from
herbivores, as meat-eating animal manure can have
harmful pathogens. Let manure age a little bit to avoid
overheating your compost pile and killing off good
bacteria and earthworms, and layer it with other browns
like straw or leaves to keep things balanced.

Kitchen scraps include melon rinds, carrot peelings, tea

bags, coffee grinds, orange peels, apple cores, banana
peels, corn cobs and corn stalks, peanut shells, alfalfa or sprouts, and egg shells (although these
need to be crushed to break down faster). Keep a kitchen scrap carrier handy so you can easily
add biodegradable items to your compost pile every few days. If your compost pile is open, over
the scraps with brown materials to deter pests from visiting your compost.

Shredded cardboard boxes, newspapers, paper (particularly those with soy-based inks) and
sawdust from untreated wood will all contribute nicely to your organic potpourri. You should
always keep in mind not to put too much of any one thing in—it can throw off the N-P-K
balance, not to mention the pH. If adding paper products, keep it at 10% or less of the compost
material weight, as these products are low in nitrogen and slow rates of decomposition in your
pile.

Remember, the more surface area of waste exposed to your compost microorganisms, the faster
the decomposition process. Throw in a handful of good garden soil to inoculate your new pile
with living organisms. A few earthworms are a nice addition, too.

Though not required, many individuals add compost starters and accelerators to help their pile
along—this is fine, just avoid synthetic additives and seek out organic sources with minimal
packaging, like those found on our website.

The following table is a cheat sheet for your convenience:

From the Yard From the Kitchen
• chemical-free grass clippings • coffee grounds and filters
• dry leaves • tea bags (without staples) and leaves
• Shrub and tree waste • veggie and fruit scraps
• sawdust and wood chips from • corn husks
untreated wood • crushed eggshells
• straw and hay • hair from brushes
 • dead plants and flowers • cereal, like oatmeal
• potting soil • bread and flour
• leftover pasta, without oil or dairy-
• dead insects based sauces
• rice
• all-natural fibers, like cotton

• shredded black and white newspaper

and paper towels.

What Not to Put in Your Compost Bin:

Though all organic matter can naturally break down, some materials are not suitable for the
home compost pile. Read these carefully, and adhere to this advice in order to have the most
healthy and safe composting experience.

First and foremost, no human or pet excrement should be added to the bins. Feces can harbor
harmful bacteria, and there is no guarantee that the high temperatures of your pile will kill them.
The potential health cost is too high, thus directly composting feces should not be attempted.

Secondly, stay away from greasy foods, dairy products, meat scraps (including fish) and bones.
Not only can their decomposition result in colorful aromas, they can attract rodents. Moreover,
why propagate pestilence? Rocks, plastic, metals and Styrofoam are not going to do much for
your pile, so keep them out.

Ashes from your fireplace are basically worthless --- they are already broken down as much as
possible from heat and flames, and therefore have little potential energy to offer the
microorganisms in your pile. Besides, ash can drastically alter the pH of the soil. Avoid coal
ashes because they contain sulfur and iron that can harm your plants, and charcoal doesn’t decay
too much, so don’t use them either.

If your prize tomatoes experienced their worst blight on record, you want to keep their diseased
leaves and stems out of the pile, especially if the finished compost will be returning to your
vegetable garden. Oak, southern magnolia, and holly trees are too leathery for composting, and
eucalyptus leaves can be toxic to other plants, in addition to black walnut trees, poison oak,
poison ivy, and sumac. Weeds are tricky—some weeds can be composted, but if they have begun
to seed, only the hottest compost pile will kill them. Pine needles can actually slow down your
compost pile - avoid mixing too many of them into your pile.

The following list is a cheat sheet of what not to put in your compost bin, provided for your
convenience:

• Meat and bones

 • Grease, fats, and oils
• Dairy products
• Human or pet feces
• Diseased plants
• Weeds
• Citrus peels, eucalyptus leaves and pine needles
• Treated wood products
• Grass/tree clippings treated with chemicals
• Poison Ivy and other toxic plants
• Walnut shells, walnut leaves
• Charcoal/ ashes
• Plastics and metals
• Chemical products (pesticides, fertilizers)
• Sanitary pads and tampons
• Non-organic materials
• Waxed paper

Methods for Composting

Methods for Composting
Composting has come a long way from its ancient roots. Compost still works as the most organic
fertilizer, since it contains nearly all the nutrients a living plant needs over a period of years.
Today, composting is used for multiple treatments and is made in newer, improved
containments. Although some compost the same way they did twenty years ago, the technology
and techniques have changed enough to speed up the process and produce better results.
Layering is the original method, but since then the exciting world of composting has expanded to
greater heights.

What are your compost needs? This is the first question you need to answer. If you feel queasy at
the thought of worms, then worm composting is probably not the best option for you. On the
other hand, if you don’t have a yard and plan to compost kitchen waste, vermicomposting, or
using worms to compost, is a great way to compost. Composters.com has customer service
representatives that will be happy to answer any lingering questions so you can buy a compost
unit with confidence. Open compost piles aren’t that practical in a suburban or urban area.
You’re much better off using a compost bin or compost tumbler. Vermicomposting is also an
excellent option and requires a worm bin.

The methods you use to compost are entirely dependent on you. It’s your garden you’re taking
care of—you should compost it as you see fit. However, Composters.com has come up with
some ideas, tips, and troubleshooting advice in case you’re confused.

How to apply Compost

Top dressing: Top dressing refers to compost being spread around soil during the growing
season. Perfect for herb and vegetable gardening, compost amends garden soil with nutrients that
allow plants to foster healthy growth while keeping plant diseases and insect problems at bay.
Poor soil can be augmented with 2-3 inches of compost, whereas one inch of compost is thick
enough for spreading on garden beds. Scatter some across the base of your plants, or sprinkle
compost over your lawn. You can even top off your household potted plants with small amounts
of compost.

Side dressing: Side dressing is a good option if you’re running low on compost. Intentionally
spread compost on certain plants or rows. Work the compost into the soil around the plant,
starting about an inch from the stem.

When to spread compost: Some recommend spreading compost in late autumn and then
covering it with winter mulch like chopped leaves, while others rely on spreading it two weeks
before planting time during the spring. There’s not wrong time to distribute compost; the benefits
always remain the same.

Compost as mulch: Compost can also be used as mulch, which is meant to cover all of the soil
around the plants. Mulches protect from soil erosion and help retain water while adding
nutrients. Spread about a half inch to inch thick layer of compost on bare soil under a tree and
then cover with a 2-3 inch layer of mulch to help give your trees a nutritious meal.

Topsoil/Lime: There is no need to add topsoil or lime as extras in your compost. Both can
actually do more damage than good by reducing the heat or killing beneficial organisms and
losing nitrogen.

Composting in the winter: When the temperatures drop, it’s sometimes hard to get your
compost to heat up. Place your compost bin at an angle that will slant towards the sun so that
your bin is still receiving heat. If you have some, try stacking hay bales or other insulators to
keep your bin warm.

Converting kitchen scraps into fertilizer: Take earthworms and introduce them to your
compost bin. After the bottom layers of your compost have started to decompose, bring in about
five hundred earthworms—these “garbage men of the earth” will work through successive layers
you add until your bin is full and help break down your pile. Keep layering, keep it moist, and
allow it to decompose for 5-6 weeks. If you transfer the worms into another pile or bin, you’ll be
able to produce new compost every six weeks or so.

Composting leaves: People commonly complain that their leaves will not break
down. To aid them in decomposing, you can add extra nitrogen (manure is a good
bet) to start heating them up. Another thing you can do is shred your leaves with a
leaf muncher, which will turn your leaves into super-rich mulch you can use in your
garden.

Troubleshooting
Before you take a violent rake to your problematic compost pile, take a look at our table below,
listing some of the most common problems you will run into with composting. Chances are, the
problem is an easy fix and you will be holding fistfuls of black compost gold in no time.

Problem Cause Remedy

Turn your pile with an

Pile smells like Pile is too wet or not aerator or pitchfork; add dry
sulfur oxgenated waste to balance the
moisture

Pile smells like Too many nitrogen-

Add more carbon-rich browns
ammonia rich greens

Bury your fresh kitchen

Rodents and flies are
Rats and squirrels scraps under a layer of
attracted to food
and flies, oh my! compost; switch to compost
odors
bin to keep animals out

Slow Too many carbon-rich Add nitrogen-rich greens;

decomposition browns or pile is not aerate your pile; consider an
process oxygenated enough accelerators

Moisten with rain water

Pile center is too
Not enough moisture collected from your rain
dry
barrel

Too many nitrogen-

Pile is too damp rich materials/poor Add carbon-rich browns
drainage

Too small or cold

Pile is damp only Make sure pile is at least
weather slows
in the middle 3x3, or smaller if it’s in a bin
decomposition

Avoid thick layers; break up

Grass and leaves Poor aeration or lack
layers and mix up pile, shred
won’t decompose of moisture
up big pieces of material
 Pile smells like
Not enough oxygen/ Aerate pile so it can breathe;
rancid vinegar or
too much moisture add dry browns like leaves
rotten eggs

Pile attracts
Keep flies away by covering
buzzing insects Normal (but
kitchen scraps with paper or
around my annoying!)
decomposed waste from pile
compost

Pile too dry/kitchen

Pile attracts fire Keep pile moist and heated
scraps close to
ants with good mix of materials
surface

Vermiculture
What is Vermicomposting?
Vermicomposting uses worms to convert your organic waste to compost rather than the
microbial-dependent decomposition process used in backyard composters. Vermicomposting
enriches the soil, improves its water retention, and enhances germination and plant growth.

The Redworm, also known as the Red Wriggler or Eisenia foetida, is the shining star of
vermicomposters, although European Night Crawlers are a fine substitute. When you throw
kitchen scraps into a worm bin, what the worms really seek to consume are the nourishing
microorganisms decomposing the scraps. These worms excrete worm castings, which is a
valuable soil conditioner because it contains eight times as many beneficial microorganisms as
the food supply. Worm castings are loaded with nutrients: they contain seven times more
phosphorus, five times more nitrogen, and eleven times more potassium than typical soil. It
retains moisture in your soil and enhances the growth and yield of your garden.

One of the biggest differences that sets worm composting apart is that it can be done indoors,
which allows for year-round composting, as well as composting in small places like apartments,
classrooms, or homes without large yards. Because worms consume waste so quickly (they eat
their weight in bedding and organic waste daily), it is ideal for kitchen scrap disposal, since food
would not linger long enough to create an offensive odor. And since the worm compost bin can
not be exposed to extreme temperatures, the ideal storage spot is right in your home. Another
winning benefit: as worms move through the bedding and compost, they aerate the pile for you,
eliminating the need for manual pile turning.
If you have kids, give vermicomposting a shot. Like chocolate and peanut butter, kids and worms
are a perfect pair. Most children are inexorably drawn to the idea of "pet worms" that they can
feed. It is an invaluable educational tool that instills the importance of recycling and the
fundamentals of the carbon cycle.

How to Compost with Worms

Redworms are happy in cool, wet conditions. The bedding
is where your worms live and eat—it should be made of
material that is high in carbon and imitates dried leaves, or
a worm’s natural habitat. Place redworms in a bin with a
bedding of shredded cardboard or moistened paper that is
loose enough to make aerobic decomposition easier and as
damp as a well-wrung sponge. Keep them at a temperature
between 50-70 degrees. If you live in a hot climate, place
the bin away from direct sunlight. Avoid using glossy paper from magazines or waxy cardboard
from milk carton as bedding because they can contain toxins.

Worms enjoy a carbon to nitrogen ratio of about 30:1, plus water to keep it moist. Use shredded
paper for your “browns”, or carbon-rich material, and food scraps as your “greens”, the nitrogen-
rich material. There are two methods of feeding: top feeding and pocket feeding. Top feeding
means the organic materials are place directly on top of the existing layer of bedding. Pocket
feeding is when a top layer of bedding is maintained and food is buried beneath. We recommend
the pocket feeding method. Feed your worms one to two times a week by burying the scraps a
few inches into the bedding, making sure to bury food in different places each time. Depending
on how much you feed them, the worms will gradually reproduce and die. Worms can consume
about four to six pounds of food scraps in a week. A whole mess of food at once could attract
fruit flies, so increase your scraps slowly but steadily and cover the bedding to keep them out. In
four to six months, the worms should have converted the bedding and food into castings which
need to be harvested to start composting again.

Vermicomposting bins should have holes on the side to increase aeration so the bin is ventilated
and the worms can breathe. Consistently removing the compost, adding holes to the bin or using
a continuous-flow bin will help bring in oxygen to your crawling critters. Without enough
oxygen, the compost will become anaerobic decay and produce an offensive odor. Furthermore,
if you have a non-continuous flow bin, the excess liquid needs to be drained and can be used as
plant food; a continuous flow bin doesn’t retain the excess liquid and needs extra water to keep
the bedding moist.

Now comes the exciting part—reaping the fruit of your worm’s voracious appetites! There are
two ways of harvesting your castings: “Dump and Sort” and “Side by Side”.

The “Dump and Sort” method requires you to pour your compost bin contents onto a plastic
sheet or similar, waterproof platform under bright light. Separate the contents into pyramid
shaped piles. Your photosensitive worms will make their way to the bottom of the piles, and in
10-15 minutes, you can skim your rich castings from the top of the pyramids. Repeat until only
the worms remain, then place them into your bin with fresh bedding to start the
vermincomposting process again.

The “Side by Side” method is recommended for the squeamish that prefer not to touch the
worms. Begin the process by burying your organic scraps in different spots on one side of the bin
over a number of weeks. Your worms will migrate to the side with the food, and you are now
free to cull the castings on the other side. When it’s ready to harvest again, place the food on the
opposite side and repeat the process.

Once you take the time to understand the factors that create a successfully efficient worm
compost bin, you will realize how easy vermicomposting can be!

Factors
Description
Affecting Rate
Use the Redworm or European Night Crawler for your worm
compost bin. Some worm compost bin on our site specify which to
use. Always refer to manufacturer instructions for specifics over
this general site. Worms consume their weight in carbon and
Worm nitrogen rich organic scraps every 24 hours. A good way to
calculate how many worms to buy is to use a 2:1 ratio—two
pounds of worms for every pound of organic kitchen scraps your
household produces daily. Beginners may want to start with two
pounds and progress with their skill.
Since worms are living creatures, their comfort is of utmost
importance for optimal worm bin operation. The ideal temperature
for the bin is between 60-80°F, but you have wiggle room of 40-
Temperature
90°F before the worms are adversely impacted. It is best to store
the bin in a cool, dark place within the home for stability. Do not
allow the bin to freeze or overheat.
Bedding for your worms is important. Initially, it takes up
approximately 2/3 of your new bin is space and provides half of
Bedding
the worm is carbon-nitrogen diet. In addition, it offers a dark,
(carbon
moist hiding place for the photosensitive worms. Shredded
Content)
cardboard, paper, coir bricks, untreated wood shavings, and
chopped straw and hay are suitable bedding materials.
Water Content If worms dry out, they die. For this reason, bedding must be kept
moist but never dripping wet, or anaerobic (oxygen-free)
conditions can occur and lead to odors and the suffocation of the
worms (they can drown). Since worms themselves produce liquid,
it may be necessary to occasionally add dry bedding to the bottom
of bins that have become saturated. In addition, make sure your bin
 has holes on the bottom to allow for adequate drainage.
Chop up your organic kitchen scraps and add them to your worm
bin composter, along with a grit like soil, cornmeal, or finely
Food Scraps
crushed egg shells to help worms digest their meal in their gizzard.
(Nitrogen
Feed the worms about twice a week, between 1.5-2 lbs. of
Content)
accumulated scraps, adjusting portions to your amount of worms as
necessary using the 2:1 ratio describe above.
Worms require a constant source of fresh air, breathing through
their skin. Make sure your bin has adequate ventilation holes. You
Oxygenation
will not need to turn your compost to aerate it like backyard
compost. Those gluttonous little worms do that for you!

Let’s review the following steps:

1. Choose from a wide selection of worm compost bin at Composters.com.

2. Prepare bedding for your worms, making sure it takes up at least 2/3 of the container
space and is moist but not soggy. Check out our Bedding Recipe to help.
3. Add your Redworms or European Night Crawlers to the bedding under direct light. Due
to their photosensitivity, the worms will begin to burrow into the dark safety of their
bedding.
4. After the worms have been allowed to settle for a day or two, begin feeding them your
organic scrap waste twice weekly.
5. When bedding has been almost entirely consumed, harvest the valuable compost.

Keep in mind these are general steps. For instructions that relate to your specific worm bin, refer
to the manufacturer guidelines.

Bedding Recipe
Redworms just love shredded paper bedding. First, get a pile of used office paper and remove the
color inserts, plastic windows, and glossy advertisements. Then carefully run it through a paper
shredder, a few pages at a time, so it is not too compressed - avoid using the cross-cutting models
that mince the paper into confetti sized particles. Next, moisten the paper ever so slightly - you
want the bedding to be evenly moist at all times, but NEVER dripping wet. For optimum results,
mix in a tiny bit of processed steer manure from your local garden center (do not use fresh cow
spore - it will heat up too much and kill the worms). To go the extra mile for your worm new
home, pick up a simple pH test kit and occasionally monitor the acidity levels of the bedding.
You want to make sure that the pH does not drop too far or too quickly into the acid range - it
could kill the worms. You can balance out the pH with a little pulverized limestone from your
local nursery. Scatter a handful or two of soil over the bedding - this will provide grit, which aids
digestion. You can also do the same thing with shredded cardboard!
What to put in your worm bin
The best and most convenient thing you can feed your worms is kitchen scraps. All vegetable
and fruit peels, pasta leftovers, coffee grounds, tea bags, and breads are good, as well as grass
clippings, plant trimmings and leaves. Start feeding your worms slowly, since it will take time
for the bacteria to grow. A small combination of gritty materials like bread and vegetables should
do the trick. The worms won’t be hungry because they will be eating their own bedding; after
you’ve been feeding them for a while, you can gradually start to increase their food intake, but
not by too much!

The following list is a cheat sheet provided for your convenience:

• Fruit and veggie scraps

• Leftover pasta (without oil or sauce)
• Plain rice
• Egg cartons
• Coffee trays
• Tea bags (without staples)
• Coffee grinds
• Cornmeal (for grit)
• Soil (for grit)
• Finely crushed egg shell (for grit)
• Breads
• Grains and cereals
• Beans
• Untreated sawdustGrass clippings Hair clippings Plant trimmings Paper Leaves

What NOT to put in your worm bin:

Worms cannot break down synthetic materials, bones, or heavy proteins and fats that are found
in meat scraps. Therefore, just like with a regular compost bin, you cannot feed them meats, fatty
foods, weeds, or anything involving chemicals. Don’t throw away bottle caps, plastic bags, or
foil in your bin, since they won’t decompose and make your bin look like a trashcan. And don’t
add manure like you would with regular compost, since this will heat up the bin and effectively
kill your worms. Worms also dislike garlic and onion, as well as very spicy foods. If you notice
any bad smells, cut back on the amount of food or cut it into smaller pieces. More leafy
vegetables and less citrus fruits can also help cut down on any odd stenches.

The following list is a cheat sheet provided for your convenience:

• Garlic
 • Onion
• Meats and bones
• Dairy products
• Oily food
• Heavily spiced or hot foods
• Anything with insecticide or chemicals
• Twigs
• Metal and foils
• Plastics
• Weeds
• Manure
• Garden soil

Methods for Vermicomposting

Vermicompost, like we mentioned earlier, is a fantastic soil nutrient. You can distribute the
compost over your flower beds or garden by lightly digging it into your soil. It’s very potent, so
you should typically use half of what you would have used with normal compost. If you use it on
potted plants, add a thin layer to the top—no more than 25% of the potting soil should be
compost. Try a little experimentation to find the best results for your botanic beauties.

As long as it is stored in an airtight container, the vermicompost can keep for approximately a
year. Once it dries out, it loses a lot of its nutritional value and resists moisture.

Tips and Advice

When you go on vacation: Your worms will be fine for 2-3 weeks, and would not exhibit too
much separation anxiety. If your cruise to Jamaica is longer than 3 weeks, you will need to enlist
the aid of a friend to worm-sit.

Rodents and pests: Since vermicomposting is done primarily indoors, you shouldn’t be
attracting rodents or pests. However, if you are putting meat or lots of kitchen waste into the
worm bin your chances of attracting unwelcome pests increases. Using a sealed bin will help
keep out pesky critters.

Odor: Like backyard composting, a properly maintained worm compost bin will not stink. If
your bin does smell, it indicates anaerobic conditions. Common reasons for the occurrence
include overfeeding your worms and bins that are too wet. Make sure the worms have finished
all the kitchen scraps before adding more, and gently fluff bedding to aerate. Add more bedding
or use a turkey baster to suck up excess moisture. Other reasons could include an excess of
greens—neutralize the odor by adding carbon-rich browns like paper and dried leaves.
Other creatures in my worm bin: Once your worms are thriving, you may notice other
creatures rummaging in your bin. Springtails, pill bugs and millipedes are just a few, and they
are beneficial, as they help breakdown the materials in the bin.

Worms, Worm Composters and Accessories

Composters.com features a great selection of vermicomposting bins and worm accessories that
will help make the process easy and fun!

Worm composters are designed to be spaces your worms can live in harmony, happily munching
away on your kitchen leftovers. The type of bin you need depends on how much waste you throw
away. If you feed a large family every night, chances are you need a larger bin. If you
vermicompost from an apartment, you probably don’t need a huge bin to do the job. The
Expandable Worm Tower, which can hold about 5-8 lbs. of waste, separates food scraps from
finished compost using an upward migration system so that when the top worms finish digesting,
they will go towards the new food at the top, leaving castings behind. The Advanced BioSafe
System, on the other hand, has the capacity to handle 15-20 lbs. of waste per day and works great
both indoors and outdoors. Though we carry all sorts of worm bins, you’ll need to figure out
which one is perfect for your vermicomposting needs. And if you need troubleshooting or have a
question, the dual-sided Rott Wheeler Quick Reference Guide is an outstanding source that’s
made for beginners so it’s easy to understand and works well as a teaching aide.

Once you have your worm bin, you need worms to put in it! Redworms or Nightcrawlers are the
ideal worms for vermiculture. A pound of worms can range from 100-1000 worms, depending on
season, harvesting mechanism, temperature, and species; a pound is enough to eat up a half-
pound of garbage. How many worms you need depends on how much kitchen waste you produce
each day. Add worms by scattering them over the top, as they will work their way down to the
center to avoid the light. Worms are hermaphrodites and will breed in your bin. However, worms
regulate their population to suit their conditions and many eggs are lost in the compost harvest.
You should have no problem with over breeding.

Once your bin is set up, your bedding is made, and your worms are safely inside, store your bin
someplace within the home where it will be of convenience to you and provide a dark, quiet spot
for your worms. They are not fond of bright light, noise, and vibration, and many people find
success storing them in a closet, kitchen, or basement. You can keep them outside in most places
during the spring, summer and fall seasons. Make sure the place is cool and shaded. However,
bring them inside during the winter. Never allow your bin to freeze!

Compost Tea
Compost Tea
Compost tea is best described as a liquid soil conditioner for your garden and lawn. For the
organic gardener, it is just one more way to utilize the compost harvested from your compost bin,
compost tumbler or worm compost bin. It can be used either as a spray for leaves or soil,
depending on where your plants have problems. Compost tea can also provide a quick boost to
ailing house plants or to seedlings and transplants. When you’re done with the tea, you can use
the dregs as mulch in the garden.

Making compost tea is a snap! Simply steep your compost

or vermicompost in water to create hearty liquid
sustenance for your plants. Grab a large five gallon bucket
or similar container and fill it loosely with only your finest
batches compost. If you have a poor compost yield, your
tea will be similarly lackluster. Add water to cover your
compost, and then stir the bucket contents daily for a week.
When the tea is ready, simply drain the liquid from the
bucket, now awash in the nutrients and minerals it leeched
from your compost. Use a strainer or cheesecloth if you
plan to spray your tea from bottle to remove clogging
residue. Because the tea is so potent, make sure you dilute
your liquid loveliness by mixing ten parts water to one part compost tea before applying to
plants. If you do not, you risk burning your plants with the tea high nitrogen content.

Making vermicompost tea is a similar process. Add two tablespoons of your worm castings to a
liter of water and let it sit for one day, shaking occasionally to facilitate mixing. The tea is now
ready to be sprinkled on your plants, straight from the bottle.

Compost tea and traditional solid compost both accomplish the same goal of nourishing and
improving soil conditions. However, you may find one meets your organic gardening goals more
than the other. If you are looking for an immediate boost in your plants, compost tea is the way
to go. As a liquid, it is immediately absorbed by your plants, and can be applied to the soil, or the
roots and leaves of your foliage. However, its liquid form is a double-edge sword, requiring
frequent applications to balance how easily the tea is washed away. In addition, just as plants
treated with good compost tea derived from a proper compost batch show immediate benefits, a
toxic or weak compost tea from a poor compost batch will become instantly apparent in your
garden. A tea with too much nitrogen, salts and unwanted microorganisms can burn or impair
your gardening efforts. Compost tea is not the most forgiving form of compost application.

Solid compost offers more room for error, and does not need frequent application to perform its
soil enriching duty. However, it would not be the instant perk some gardeners seek in their
flower beds and gardens.

Unlike vermicompost, compost tea does not have a long shelf life. The more quickly it is used,
the greater its potency. If you must store it, keep it in a shaded area with ventilation.
Pet Waste Management
A pet waste digester system is similar to a composter, except instead of microbial activity
leading to decomposition, special digesters with non-toxic enzymes work to break down your pet
poop into completely benign residue. This liquid then enters the surrounding soil, cleanly and
with no risk to children or pets. This process keeps hazardous waste materials out of our landfills
and water treatment facilities. Most systems come with a plastic or metal receptacle you partially
bury into your yard, and the liquid or powder digester you throw in to break down the waste.
Today is systems are compact, aesthetically pleasing, and many sport foot-pedal operation of the
receptacle lid, for greater convenience. The receptacles are designed to control odor, complete
with a lid. Once the enzymes begin to break down the pet waste, the odor is neutralized.

You absolutely cannot put pet waste or human excrement into a backyard compost bin. It is all
about safety, safety, safety. For the standard backyard compost bin or vermicomposter set-up,
there is no guarantee that the pile will heat up enough from the microbial activity to destroy any
harmful pathogens in the waste. Imagine a nick on your hand caused by yard work. Now imagine
that hand dipping into contaminated compost—not a pretty picture. Unless your compost has
been specifically designed and allocated for fecal management, steer clear and keep your
composter feces free!

Composters.com does sell quality pet waste composters, and it is a valid, eco-friendly way to
deal with pet waste. However, until one is well-versed in standard vermicomposting or pet waste
digester systems, we recommend holding off. Pet waste digesters are designed as a low
maintenance alternative to trashing your pet’s waste. If you are a seasoned compost participant
looking for a change, than the pet waste composter is for you.

Composting Benefits

Throughout the country, landfills are filling up, garbage incineration is becoming increasingly unpopular,
and our alternatives for waste disposal are becoming increasingly limited. So, where do we go from
here ? The logical alternative is Composting.

Composting provides a means for reducing the amount of waste that would otherwise be disposed of in
our landfills. By diverting solid wastes from our landfill sites we help to conserve landfill space and reduce
the production of leachate and methane gas. In addition, an effective composting program can produce
high quality soil amendments with a variety of potential uses.