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Adver tisements

for “The Happy


Hen Organic
Fer tile Brown
Eggs” invoke a
picture of

the
free-r
free-rang
ange
e
This is what the poultry industry means when it says “free-range.”

myth
hens who run free
“in a natural
setting, and nest
and lay eggs in
T his Sunnybrook Farm idyll is no
doubt comforting to the growing
number of people looking to free-range
Besides, he points out, each hen lays
20 to 23 dozen eggs a year, so they must be
treated well.
poultry and eggs as humane alternatives to Although calling Happy Hens
individual hole the factory-farm variety. “Free-range,” a free-range violates fact, it does not violate
designation applied to roughly 2 percent of the law. Indeed, there are no laws or
nests of wheat all commercially raised birds in the United government standards regulating the use
States, conveys a positive image of animals of free-range, free roaming, or free
straw.” These living outdoors as nature intended. In walking on egg cartons. Thus, says a
reality, a Happy Hen’s life, like that of Food and Drug Administration (FDA) staff
“free-range” hens virtually all free-range poultry, is neither member, a Minnesota egg producer can
free nor spent on the range. claim that uncaged hens kept on a concrete
are “humanely One of the three Happy Hen floor without nest boxes are free walking.
houses is perched on a remote Amish farm (The “USDA grade” mark on an egg carton
housed in healthy, in Logantown, Pennsylvania. “Humanely simply means that the eggs inside were
housed” inside this long barn are 6,800 packaged under United States Department
open-sided chickens and enough roosters so that there of Agriculture supervision and meet USDA
is one for every 100 hens. These free-range standards for grade, weight, class, and
housing, for daily birds never set foot outside their “healthy, producer.)
open-sided housing.” Their beaks have According to the FDA staffer,
sunning---- been trimmed severely to keep them from free-range claims could be illegal under the
injuring one another. Their feathers are Nutrition Labeling Education Act, which
something Happy straggly, drab and worn off. “We have a requires that nutrition information be stated
saying,” the farm’s owner brags, “The so that consumers can understand it in the
Hens really enjoy.” rougher they look, the better they lay.” context of the total daily diet. It is
also possible that under the Federal Food, free-range, go to the highest bidder,
Drug, and Cosmetic Act a case could usually a spent-fowl slaughter plant or a
be made that free-range birds are being live-poultry market or auction. “The
kept in a way significantly different from Happy Hen” hens are trucked to live-
what people expect. People presume free- poultry markets in Pennsylvania, New
range birds spend much or most of their Jersey, and New York City where they
days outdoors with ample space, exercise, fetch a dollar per bird. Spent-fowl plants
sunlight, social life, and at least some pay 2 to 25 cents per bird.
sustainable vegetation. To U.S. egg Even if free-range chickens and
producers, however, free-range birds are eggs were the humane alternatives the
simply uncaged, though their range may egg industry would like people to think
consist of the crowded floor of a building they are, the problem of “excess” roosters
with nest boxes along the walls. would remain. Half of all chicks hatched
NEST EGGS, which are marketed are roosters; therefore, egg production
by the Food Animal Concerns Trust also involves the production of these
(FACT) in Chicago, are produced by the “excess” roosters, who have no
most “humane” operations one is likely to commercial value. Invariably, the brothers
find in this country. To qualify for NEST of the free-range hens--like the brothers
EGGS packaging, marketing, and of battery hens--are trashed at birth or
promotion, farmers must keep their hens sold to research laboratories. No amount
uncaged in a building equipped with nest Nor do USDA regulations have anything of advertising on an egg carton can
boxes, perches, deep litter, feeders, and to say about keeping the range fresh. change that fact.
drinkers. Farmers are encouraged to Hens spend much of their time close to Karen Davis, Ph.D.
provide fresh bales of hay and to sprinkle the house, scratching, dust bathing, and President, United Poultry Concerns
around some cracked corn, whole oats, or wearing away the grass. A static house
calcium grit each day to encourage the and pasture become unsanitary when
hens to scratch and to keep the litter in hundreds or thousands of birds are
good condition. “Careful” debeaking is collected in a small area. A system of

EGG
permitted, but not force molting, a rotation is needed. According to
standard commercial practice in which Compassion In World Farming, “An ideal

Substitutes
farmers withhold food from the hens for free-range unit is made up of small,
days or even weeks to manipulate egg insulated, movable houses each holding
production. NEST EGGS farmers are up to 300 hens with a littered floor. The Corn Starch - 2 TB for 1 egg
advised, but not required, to provide each houses can be moved to fresh grass.” Arrowroot Flour - 2 TB for 1 egg
hen with two square feet of space. (The This system is ethically and ecologically
USDA recommends a foot and a half of Potato Starch - 2 TB for 1 egg
superior to the battery-cage system and
space for each bird.) to what is normally promoted as free- Soy Powder - 1 heaping TB + 2 TB
Regulations governing the water for 1 egg
range in the United States. Nevertheless,
application of free-range to birds raised it does not solve the problem of oversized Flax Seed & water puree - 1 TB
for meat in the United States--mainly flocks or the isolation of hens from other flaxseeds + 1 Cup water for 1 egg.
chickens and turkeys--are scarcely more Blend flaxseeds and water in
sexes and age groups of their species and blender for 1 to 2 minutes till
strict than the nonexistent rules from other species. mixture is thick and has the
governing the application of that term to Chickens can live active lives for consistency of a beaten egg white.
egg-laying poultry. Poultry raised for up to 15 years, but after a year or two, Banana - 1 banana for 1 egg in
meat may be sold as “free-range” only if commercial free-range hens are hauled cakes.
the birds so designated have access to away in transport crates the same as are ENER-G Egg Replacer - 11/2 tsp + 2
the outdoors. That access must be battery hens, who spend all their lives in TB water for 1 egg. Comes in
certified by the USDA, which reviews and cages. powder form in an easily stored
approves labels for federally inspected box. 10 cal. per serving. No animal
(Noncommercial family farms
ingredients. Check natural food
meat products. No other criteria-- generally keep their “girls” two or three stores and special sections in
vegetation, range size, number of birds, or more years before replacing the entire your local supermarkets. Ask them
space per bird--are implied by this term. flock.) Spent fowl, whether caged or to carry it if they do not already.

ACTION FOR ANIMALS • P.O. Box 45843, Seattle, WA 98145 • www.afa-online.org • (206) 227-5752

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