Indian Journal of Fibre & Textile Research

VOLUME26

NUMBER4

DECEMBER 2001

CONTENTS
Influence of some process parameters on the properties of polyester jet-spun yarns
G K Tyagi & Dhirendra Sharma

349

Assessment of tensile properties of cotton yarns

Abhijit Majumdar

354

Objective measurement of structural parameters of rotor-spun yarns

Arindam Basu

358

A comparative study of MTS and equivalent MJS yarns

K R Salhotra, S M Ishtiaque & Akshay Kumar

366

Prediction of micro-spun yarn lea CSP using artificial neural networks

N Shanmugam, S K Chattopadhyay , M V Vivekanandan &
H V Sreenivasamurthy

372

Influence of fibre finish on characteristics of polyester jet-spun yarns in relation to

total draft and spinning speed
S Dhamija, G K Tyagi , R Munshi & K R Salhotra
Core coverage in DREF-III friction-spun yarns
R Chattopadhyay , K R Salhotra, S Dhamija & R C D Kaushik
Influence of spin finish and opening roller speed on the mechanical properties of
polyester OE rotor yarns produced with different draw-off nozzles
G K Tyagi , Rakesh Jindal & K R Salhotra
Relationship between tensile properties of fibres and nonwoven fabrics
P C Patel & V K Kothari
Opto-electronic measurement of spinning tension
B K BEHERA, S SUBRAMANIAN & ASHISH GARG
Effect of specimen size and strain rate on the tensile properties of heat-sealed and
needle-punched nonwoven fabrics
P C Patel & V K Kothari
Physico-mechanical properties of fabrics prepared from blends of sulphonated jute
fibre with natural and synthetic fibres
Mohammed Ali, A Jabber Mian, M Nurul Islam, Md Rabiul Awual, Syed Fazal-EKarim & A M Sarwaruddin Chowdhury

378
387

392
398
403
409

414

A novel technique of cotton dyeing with reactive dyes at neutral pH

S D Bhattacharya & B J Agarwal

418

Improving the dyeability of natural colorants on cotton by cationization

Seong-il Eom, Dong-yoon Shin & Kee-jong Yoon

425

Physico-chemical study of dyed wool: Part Bougainvillaea as wool colourant with

mixed mordant
J P Mathur & C S Bhandari

432

Conference Report
Fifty-seventh All India Textile Conference

438

Book Review
Textile testing: Fibre, yarn and fabric
by A Basu; reviewed by A R Garde

441

Annual Index

443

Indian Journal of Fibre & Textile Research

Vol. 26, December 2001, pp. 349-353

Influence of some process parameters on the properties of polyester jet-spun yarns

G K Tyagi and Dhirendra Sharma
The influence of fibre denier, ribbon width, main draft and yarn linear density on the properties of polyester jet-spun yarns has
been studied by using factorial design. It is observed that the ribbon width has a direct effect on the tensile properties of MJS yarns,
depending on the fibre and yarn linear densities. The use of higher main draft substantially improves the tensile properties but
adversely affects the evenness, rigidity and hairiness.
Keywords : Air-jet spinning, Flexural rigidity, Main draft, Polyester yarn, Ribbon width

Indian Journal of Fibre & Textile Research

Vol 26, December 2001, pp. 354-357

Assessment of tensile properties of cotton yarns

Abhijit Majumdar
The influence of rate of extension on the tensile properties of cotton yarns has been studied. The relationship between different
tensile parameters of cotton yarns obtained from Uster Tensorapid-3 and Uster Tensojet has been developed. It is observed that the
results obtained from these two tensile testers show very good correlation. The average strength-time coefficient and breaking
extension-time coefficient of cotton yarns of varying count have also been derived using the formula proposed by Meredith. The
absolute value of both the time coefficients decreases with the increase in yarn fineness beyond 50s.
Keywords: Breaking extension, Cotton, Tenacity, Uster Tensorapid-3, Uster Tensojet, Work of rupture

Indian Journal of Fibre & Textile Research

Vol. 26, December 2001, pp. 358-365

Objective measurement of structural parameters of rotor-spun yarns

Arindam Basu
An intensive study has been carried out to define the structure of rotor-spun yarns objectively and to find out the contribution of
structural parameters to yarn properties. It is observed that the measured twist of rotor-spun yarn is correlated poorly with yarn
tenacity, count strength product (CSP) and elongation-at-break. The structural parameters of the yarn are highly correlated with yarn
tenacity, extension, CSP and hairiness. The addition of twist enhances the correlation in some cases.
Keywords: Cotton, Count strength product, Elongation-at-break, Hairiness, Ring-spun yarn, Rotor-spun yarn, Wrapper fibre, Yarn
tenacity

Indian Journal of Fibre & Textile Research

Vol. 26, December 2001, pp. 366-371

A comparative study of MTS and equivalent MJS yarns

K R Salhotra, S M Ishtiaque and Akshay Kumar
Murata twin-spun (MTS) yarns have been compared with equivalent Murata jet-spun (MJS) yarns at different ply twist levels
both in S and Z directions. It is observed that the doubling increases the tenacity, breaking extension and flexural rigidity of both the
yarns. MTS yarns are stronger and less rigid than the equivalent MJS yarns. The percentage increase in tenacity, breaking extension,
and flexural rigidity is more in MTS doubled yarns. The subjective assessment of fabric handle shows that MTS yarn fabrics are
softer than MJS yarn fabrics before and after finishing treatment. Finished fabrics are softer than grey and bleached fabrics for both
types of yarns.
Keywords: Air-jet spinning, Fabric handle, Murata jet-spun yarn, Murata twin-spun yarn, Plying, Polyester/viscose yarn

Indian Journal of Fibre & Textile Research

Vol. 26, December 2001, pp. 372-377

Prediction of micro-spun yarn lea CSP using artificial neural networks

N Shanmugam, S K Chattopadhyay , M V Vivekanandan and H V Sreenivasamurthy
A back-propagation artificial neural network has been used to develop a model relating to cotton fibre properties and microspun yarn lea CSP. Fibre properties such as span length, bundle strength, fineness, breaking elongation, uniformity ratio and
percentage of mature fibres have been studied. It is observed that a neural network architecture having five hidden neurons in one
hidden layer and an epoch size of 12 gives better prediction. The predictions are more accurate than those obtained from regression
models. The mean absolute error of neural network model is found to be 60% lower than those of the regression models.
Keywords: Artificial neural network, Back-propagation neural network, Fibre quality index, Lea CSP, Microspinning

Indian Journal of Fibre & Textile Research

Vol. 26, December 2001, pp. 378-386

Influence of fibre finish on characteristics of polyester jet-spun yarns in relation to

total draft and spinning speed
S Dhamija, G K Tyagi, R Munshi and K R Salhotra
The influence of level of fibre finish in relation to total draft and spinning speed on characteristics of polyester MJS yarns has
been studied. It is observed that different levels of fibre finish exhibit different trends at different drafts. A higher level of fibre finish
significantly increases the tensile properties but adversely affects the flexural rigidity. Both yarn hairiness and abrasion resistance
show an initial improvement followed by deterioration with the increase in fibre finish. Within the spinning speed of 150-210
m/min, the yarn evenness characteristics generally deteriorate with the increase in spinning speed, whereas the yarn tensile
properties improve. The flexural rigidity shows a minimum at a spinning speed of 150 m/min. The influence of total draft on
tenacity, breaking extension, abrasion resistance, flexural rigidity and hairiness is similar to that of spinning speed.
Keywords : Air-jet spinning, Fibre finish, Polyester yarn, Spinning speed

Indian Journal of Fibre & Textile Research

Vol. 26, December 2001, pp. 387-391

Core coverage in DREF-III friction-spun yarns

R Chattopadhyay, K R Salhotra, S Dhamija and R C D Kaushik
The appearance of DREF-III friction-spun core yarns has been studied subjectively in respect of the coverage of core by the
sheath fibres. It is observed that the core coverage increases with the increase in sheath component, irrespective of the form of core.
However, it is not possible to hide the core completely even with a very high sheath content of 85%.
Keywords : Core coverage, Core-spun yarn, DREF-III spun yarn, Friction spinning, Polyester/viscose yarn
Indian Journal of Fibre & Textile Research
Vol. 26, December 2001, pp. 392-397

Influence of spin finish and opening roller speed on the mechanical properties of
polyester
OE rotor yarns produced with different draw-off nozzles
G K Tyagi, Rakesh Jindal and K R Salhotra
The effect of spin finish level, opening roller speed and types of draw-off nozzle on the mechanical properties of the polyester
OE rotor yarns has been studied. It is observed that the higher level of spin finish and notched nozzle offer considerable advantage in
rotor spinning in respect of yarn tensile properties. The opening roller speed has the greatest influence on yarn breaking strength,
breaking extension, work of rupture and abrasion resistance. All these properties deteriorate to different degree, depending upon the
level of spin finish. Twist efficiency is higher with a higher level of spin finish, higher opening roller speed and a notched nozzle.
Keywords: Draw-off nozzle, Fibre friction, Opening roller speed, Polyester yarn, Spin finish, Twist efficiency

Indian Journal of Fibre & Textile Research

Vol. 26, December 2001, pp. 398-402

Relationship between tensile properties of fibres and nonwoven fabrics

P C Patel and V K Kothari
The stress-strain behaviour of spunbonded needle-punched fabric, spunbonded heat-sealed fabric and staple fibre needlepunched fabric has been studied using wide-width tensile test method. The stress-strain behaviour of constituent fibres of these
fabrics has also been studied and the structural parameters of nonwoven fabrics evaluated as these are the main two factors which
influence the mechanical properties of nonwoven fabrics. The fibre network theory has been used to predict the stress-strain
behaviour of fabric using the fibre data and structural parameters of nonwoven fabrics. It is observed that there is good agreement
between theoretical and experimental values in case of heat-sealed spunbonded nonwoven fabric. In case of needle-punched fabrics,
the stress-strain curve of the staple fibre fabric shows major deviation from the experimental curve while the stress-strain curves for
spunbonded needle-punched fabrics show substantial deviation from the experimental curves. The slippage of fibres is a dominating
factor in the deformation of needle-punched nonwoven fabrics in general and staple fibre fabrics in particular and hence both the
modulus and breaking stress are found to be much lower than the theoretical values. The structure of nonwoven fabrics is the most
important factor affecting the tensile behaviour of these fabrics.
Keywords: Heat-sealed fabric, Needle-punched fabric, Nonwoven fabric, Stress-strain behaviour, Tensile properties

Indian Journal of Fibre & Textile Research

Vol. 26, December 2001, pp. 403-408

Opto-electronic measurement of spinning tension

B K Behera, S Subramanian and Ashish Garg
A non-contact measurement of spinning tension based on opto-electronic principle has been discussed. The relationship
between spinning tension and various yarn properties has also been studied to examine the authenticity of the proposed optoelectronic method. The results show that the value of spinning tension obtained by the tensometer correlates well with that obtained
by the opto-electronic method. The proposed method is quick, reliable and more practical.
Keywords: Cotton, Image processing, Opto-electronic principle, Polyester/viscose yarn, Spinning tension

Indian Journal of Fibre & Textile Research

Vol. 26, December 2001, pp. 409-413

Effect of specimen size and strain rate on the tensile properties of

heat-sealed and needle-punched nonwoven fabrics
P C Patel and V K Kothari
The tensile behaviour of heat-sealed and needle-punched spunbonded nonwoven fabrics has been evaluated by conventional
narrow-strip and wide-width test methods using a wide range of strain rates. The tensile properties of these fabrics are influenced by
the specimen size and strain rate, depending on the fabric structure. The initial modulus obtained from narrow-strip test is found to
be significantly lower as compared to that obtained from wide-width test of needle-punched nonwoven fabrics, while the specimen
width has very little effect on the initial modulus in case of heat-sealed nonwoven fabrics. The breaking stress of narrow-strip
samples is always lower than that of the wide-width samples, irrespective of structure type. The effect of strain rate on breaking
extension is marginal in case of needle-punched fabrics but significant in case of heat-sealed fabrics. The fabric structure influences
the tensile behaviour of both heat-sealed and needle-punched nonwoven fabrics in general and at slow strain rates in particular.
Keywords: Heat-sealed nonwoven fabric, Needle-punched nonwoven fabric, Strain rate, Tensile properties

Indian Journal of Fibre & Textile Research

Vol. 26, December 2001, pp. 414-417

Physico-mechanical properties of fabrics prepared from blends of sulphonated

jute fibre with
natural and synthetic fibres
Mohammed Ali, A Jabber Mian, M Nurul Islam, Md Rabiul Awual, Syed Fazal-E-Karim and A M Sarwaruddin Chowdhury
The plain woven fabrics have been prepared from the blends of sulphonated jute fibre with natural and synthetic fibres, and
their geometrical, physico-mechanical and drapping properties studied. It is observed that the blended fibre fabrics show improved
textile properties, almost similar to those of the cotton fabrics.
Keywords: Drape coefficient, Jute fibre, Sulphonation, Tensile strength

Indian Journal of Fibre & Textile Research

Vol. 26, December 2001, pp. 418-424

A novel technique of cotton dyeing with reactive dyes at neutral pH

S D Bhattacharya and B J Agarwal

Cotton fabric was treated with optimum concentrations of polyacrylamide and epichlorohydrin, dried, cured and then studied
for morphological changes occurred due to the treatment. The modified fabric was then dyed with selected commercial reactive dyes
under neutral pH in the absence of electrolyte by different dyeing sequences. The dyeability and fastness properties of the modified
and dyed samples were assessed and then compared with those of the conventionally dyed sample. It was observed that the
simultaneous polyacrylamide-epichlorohydrin treatment and dyeing enhances the dyeability of cotton at neutral pH with a series of
commercial reactive dyes. The probable mechanism for dye fixation on polymer treated fabric has been proposed.
Keywords : Cotton, Dyeing, Epichlorohydrin, Polyacrylamide, Reactive dye

Indian Journal of Fibre & Textile Research

Vol. 26, December 2001, pp. 425-431

Improving the dyeability of natural colorants on cotton by cationization

Seong-il Eom, Dong-yoon Shin and Kee-jong Yoon
Cotton fabric was cationized with several cationizing reagents before dyeing with natural colorants (Redwood, Gromwell,
Cochineal, Goldthread and Amur cork tree) for improving its dyeability. The K/S value of cationized cotton fabric dyed with
Redwood and Cochineal was higher than that of untreated one. In case of Gromwell, though the K/S value of the cationized fabric
was higher than that of untreated one, the fabric showed poor levelness. Cationization of cotton had no effect on the dyeability of
Goldthread and Amur cork tree. It is observed that when the concentration of NaOH exceeds beyond a certain level, NaOH
hydrolyzes the cationizing agent and the K/S values of dyed materials decrease. The optimum concentrations of NaOH in
cationization have been determined for dyeings with different natural colorants.
Keywords: Cationization, Cotton, Dyeing, Natural colorants

Indian Journal of Fibre & Textile Research

Vol. 26, December 2001, pp. 432-437

Physico-chemical study of dyed wool: Part I Bougainvillaea as

wool colourant with mixed mordant
J P Mathur and C S Bhandari
The extract of red petaloid bracts of bougainvillaea has been used as wool colourant with mixed mordants and the physicochemical properties of the dyed samples studied. The petaloid bracts when treated with water at 97.5C for nearly 20 min yield
7.43% of bougainvillaea (BV) colourant. The optimum conditions for dyeing of wool have been determined as pH 4.5, BV
concentration 0.06 g per gram of wool, temperature 97.5C, and time 45 min. It is observed that the use of lanthanum (III) as first
mordant and chromium (VI) as second mordant reduces the quantity of Cr (VI) in the spent dye bath and causes less damage to the
wool fibre in comparison to the dyed yarn mordanted with Cr (VI) alone. This binary mixed-mordant dyeing also reduces the
environmental pollution caused due to the discharge of toxic chromium ion in the effluent.
Keywords: Bougainvillaea petaloid, Dyeing, Wool