Beruflich Dokumente
Kultur Dokumente
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The design requires no welding and once constructed you will find the NWGS is exceptionally
solid and vibration free. I honestly dont think welding is needed but if you want to weld it, you can
very easily. 1/3 of builders weld their grinder as the design allows for quick and easy welding.
Getting Started:
Safety first.
WARNING!
Possible serious injury or death could result in your use of this power tool! I am not an
engineer, machinist or expert in power tool design. I believe this design to be basically safe in
materials and construction methods. I have extensive experience with grinding and sanding and know
these activities to be very dangerous. You should understand that grinding and sanding is a dangerous
operation and you should seek training if you have no experience with a power grinder or sander. I
know several very experienced metal working people that have been very seriously injured using their
grinder.
The shop tool that seems to cut or scrape me the most often isnt the grinder, its the drill press.
Secure or clamp the pieces you are drilling. Drill presses or hand drills have a lot of torque, more than
can be held some times.
Always wear ear and eye protection. Consider wearing a heavy leather shop apron while
operating your grinder sander.
These plans assume the individual constructing the NWGS has at least a working knowledge of
power tools and can safely operate a completed grinder.
This design is for a 1750RPM or 3450RPM motor with a 2 to 4 drive pulley. See Appendix
C Motors for a formula to calculate SFPM (surface feet per minute) speed.
Contact wheels and aluminum drive wheels all have bearings and high speed operation
generates a lot of heat. Small contact wheels are often unable to shed heat fast enough and the bearings
are destroyed by the heat. Run smaller contact wheels at lower speeds.
All bearing wear out. Regularly inspect and replace any worn bearings. Look for lubricant
leakage from the sealed bearing or rough action. Bearings are inexpensive compared to a critical shop
accident if one disintegrates at high speed.
Always wear a respirator when grinding or sanding! Metal dust in your lungs does damage.
Some metals outgas heavy metals while grinding and can cause heavy metal poisoning. Some exotic
woods can cause allergic or toxic reaction that can cause death while sanding. I always wear a
respirator while grinding or sanding. Note, wear a respirator that is rated for particle and toxic fumes.
These respirators cost anywhere from $25 to $40 with replaceable cartridges. Dust masks block only
large particles of dust and should probably not be used but are better than nothing.
Beware of the open drive belt! OSHA regulations require a powered belt to be entirely
enclosed in a commercial or business operation. We provide no plans for a belt drive cover as we are
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or electronic form for any reason with out the express written permission of Tracy Mickley at Midwest Knifemakers Supply, LLC
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not in a commercial environment. I would recommend you cover the belt drive with some type of
enclosure. A simple 3 sided wooden box with cut outs for the two shafts with enough length and
height is all that is needed.
What we can not support or help you with:
Wiring the motor and switch will be up to you. We will provide some very basic information in
the appendix on motors but we can not provide any assistance on wiring or hooking up your motor.
Dont despair, it is fairly simple to hook up a motor and if you are not familiar with installing or
wiring a motor, buy yours from a store that will help you with the connections. Check the suppliers
listing appendix for help with purchasing a pre-wired motor from Wayne Coe.
We cant help you with any home made contact wheels. Contact wheels turn at incredible
RPMs that have very high centrifugal forces. This is not a place to experiment. A contact wheel that
explodes during use can seriously injure, blind or kill you. Dont try and save a few dollars here. Its
not worth your eye sight or life.
Wed be interested in hearing about your design modifications but we cant really consult on
them.
If you need help, go to www.KnifeDogs.com. There are a lot of members there with
experience in building grinders of all kinds and they will most likely have answers for you!
Membership in KnifeDogs.com is free.
Copyright 2007 Midwest Knifemakers Supply, LLC www.USAknifemaker.com No part of this document may be copied for distribution in paper form
or electronic form for any reason with out the express written permission of Tracy Mickley at Midwest Knifemakers Supply, LLC
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Midwest Knifemakers Supply, LLC at www.USAknifemaker.com will carry nearly all of the
parts you need (and many of the tools) in various kit forms or individual parts to complete your entire
NWGS. Every part with the exception of the contact wheels and aluminum idler and power wheels can
be found locally in a community of nearly any significant size at all at the local hardware store, motor
supply and metal supply businesses. I live in a town of 45,000 people and found at least 3 of each type
businesses that would supply the basic parts I needed in one afternoon of shopping my supply list.
Copyright 2007 Midwest Knifemakers Supply, LLC www.USAknifemaker.com No part of this document may be copied for distribution in paper form
or electronic form for any reason with out the express written permission of Tracy Mickley at Midwest Knifemakers Supply, LLC
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If some of your holes dont align enough to allow the bolt to connect the parts, try drilling a
slightly larger hole in the affected parts. You can over size holes slightly larger to get parts to bolt
together. If you still cant get the through holes to line up after over sizing by the hole up to 1/8, I'd
suggest scrapping the part and make a new one. Cut your ends square and this won't be a problem.
All of the bolts used are 3/8-16 grade #2 bolts with nuts, washers and lock washers. These are
often sold by the pound at most hardware stores. There is no reason to buy higher grade bolts such as 5
or 8 also commonly found in bulk. Grade 5 and 8 bolts are designed for high load and stress
environments and they often cost 2 to 5 times more than commonly found grade 2 bolts and nuts.
There is no significant load or stress loads in this design that requires expensive fasteners.
Copyright 2007 Midwest Knifemakers Supply, LLC www.USAknifemaker.com No part of this document may be copied for distribution in paper form
or electronic form for any reason with out the express written permission of Tracy Mickley at Midwest Knifemakers Supply, LLC
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Copyright 2007 Midwest Knifemakers Supply, LLC www.USAknifemaker.com No part of this document may be copied for distribution in paper form
or electronic form for any reason with out the express written permission of Tracy Mickley at Midwest Knifemakers Supply, LLC
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The picture to the right shows the motor side of the tension
arm. A tracking wheel mount swivels on its two brackets.
The tracking adjustment knob swivels the tracking wheel
mount to adjust the track of the abrasive belt. You will need
to use machinery bushings on either side of the wheel.
These are narrow rimmed bushings with ID. These
bushings allow you to snug up the bolt/spindle assembly so
the wheel doesnt hunt back and forth.
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Page - 8 -
sink the connecting nuts on the bottom so your platform will sit flat on your bench. You may have to
cut the bolts to size. Refer to the Base Mount drawing.
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Assembly Step 10
Mount your motor to the wooden base or bench. Install the
drive belt and tighten the belt by moving the motor forward in the
mounting slots. Bolt down the motor to keep a snug tension on the
belt. Keep in mind the belt will stretch with use and you probably
have to tighten the belt again by moving the motor forward after a
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or electronic form for any reason with out the express written permission of Tracy Mickley at Midwest Knifemakers Supply, LLC
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few hours of use. If you have a Power Twist Link belt, you can remove a link. When you mount the
motor, use a square to ensure the drive belt and square to both the motor and drive shaft pulleys.
Having the motor canted wastes power, increases friction, heat, noise and you will wear out your drive
belt prematurely. Your drive belt should last for a very long time. If it is too lose, the belt will slip
often and glaze over. A glazed belt will soon have to be replaced.
Step 10
Double check your nuts and bolts to make sure they are all tight. Insert a tool arm attachment
into the machine, mount a belt, pull the tool attachment forward to put tension on the belt and tighten
the tool bar knob. Stand to the side and start the motor. Be ready to quickly adjust the tracking knob to
center the belt on the wheels. Be ready to quickly turn off the motor if something goes wrong.
Copyright 2007 Midwest Knifemakers Supply, LLC www.USAknifemaker.com No part of this document may be copied for distribution in paper form
or electronic form for any reason with out the express written permission of Tracy Mickley at Midwest Knifemakers Supply, LLC
Page - 11 -
Copyright 2007 Midwest Knifemakers Supply, LLC www.USAknifemaker.com No part of this document may be copied for distribution in paper form
or electronic form for any reason with out the express written permission of Tracy Mickley at Midwest Knifemakers Supply, LLC
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Copyright 2007 Midwest Knifemakers Supply, LLC www.USAknifemaker.com No part of this document may be copied for distribution in paper form
or electronic form for any reason with out the express written permission of Tracy Mickley at Midwest Knifemakers Supply, LLC
Materials List (assumes you build all tool arms and table rests)
No margin for squaring up cuts is reflected in this materials list. There is a great deal of tolerance in the actual part
length. Nearly every part can be just a little shorter than the plans call for and it will still work. If you prefer to be
exactly to plan, consider adding a slight increase in parts length to allow for a margin of error in squaring up your cuts.
Again, most parts can be slightly longer or shorter than the plans call for and it will work out just fine.
Metal:
Qty Item
1.5 4 square pipe 1/8 thick
2.75 2 square pipe 3/16 thick
3.75 1.75 square pipe 1/8 thick (substitute 1.5" square tube if unable to find 1.75")
8
1.5 square pipe 1/8 thick
3.75 1x1/8 flat stock
3.25 2x3/8 flat stock*
(*only a 2 tool table is allowed for, if you want a
1.25 4x3/8 flat stock
bigger tool table, increase your materials list to reflect that.)
1
1.75 x 1.75 x 1/8 angle iron (2x2 is OK also)
14
5/8 round stock cold rolled
Connectors:
Qty Item
4
6 x 3/8 bolts
14
4 x 3/8 bolts
11
3 x 3/8 bolts
19
1 x 3/8 bolts
2
5 x bolts
4
3 x bolts
14
nuts for bolts
41
nuts for 3/8 bolts
45
washers with ID (inside diameter)
63
washers with 3/8 ID
14
Machinery bushings ID 14ga
Wheels:
1
Tracking Wheel
1
Drive Wheel bored for 5/8 shaft
4
2x2 idler wheel (suggest sub 2 or 3 contact wheels)
1
8 or 10"contact wheel
Other:
2
Pillow block bearings for 5/8 shaft
1
knurled knob 3/8-16 for tracking adjustment-can sub long bolt bend to 90degrees
1
4 bump knob 3/8-16 for tool arm holder - can sub long bolt bend to 90degrees
1
Common door spring
Power Train:
1
Motor recommend 1 1/2HP TEFC Heavy Duty
1
wiring supplies: switch, switch box, wire nuts, wire, electrical tape
1
pulley for motor shaft recommend 3 step pulley system
1
pulley for drive shaft of grinder recommend 3 step pulley system
1
drive belt recommend 2Power Twist link drive belt by Fenner
1
mounting platform recommend mounting onto 2 layers of plywood
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Copyright 2007 Midwest Knifemakers Supply, LLC www.USAknifemaker.com No part of this document may be copied for distribution in paper form
or electronic form for any reason with out the express written permission of Tracy Mickley at Midwest Knifemakers Supply, LLC
Page - 15 -
Contact wheels
Burr King
1220 Tamara Lane
Warsaw, MO 65355
Phone Numbers
(660) 438-8998
(800) 621-2748
Fax Number
(660) 438-8991
info@burrking.com
www.burrking.com
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Copyright 2007 Midwest Knifemakers Supply, LLC www.USAknifemaker.com No part of this document may be copied for distribution in paper form
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Page - 17 -
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mount a drive pulley. The method of mounting the motor is often an issue. The design of the
NWGS calls for the motor to be mounted to the same base as the grinder so you will want a
motor that has at least 4 bolt hole on the bottom of the motor. Some motors mount only to the
face (area around the shaft) C Face or Face Mount and those cant be used unless you fabricate
a mounting bracket. Youre on your own there, but it really isnt that hard to fabricate a bracket
if you come across a great deal on a C Face mount motor. Some motors can be face or base
mounted and would be fine to use. Just keep in mind that dual direction or dual mounting
options on a motor add to the cost of the motor. What you want is a base mount motor with a
5/8 shaft.
Motors are open or enclosed. The degree to which the
motor is enclosed varies. The better sealed or closed a motor is to
the environment, the more expensive it is. Open motors, or ODP
(open drip proof) have open vents that are designed to direct the
occasional drip of water away from the interior. These are cheap but
getting an open motor is false economy. If you use an open motor,
expect it to short out or break down prematurely. If you are grinding
metal, you dont want an electrical motor filling up with metal dust
shorting out against the case possibly electrocuting anyone that touches the metal motor case.
Ideally you want a TEFC (totally enclosed fan cooled) motor. These are more expensive but
they are worth the expense. There are also Explosion proof and Wet Environment motors.
These cost even more and this level of protection isnt needed but if you can find a good deal
on one of these motors, by all means get it.
Motors come in AC or DC, 120v, 220v, 230v,240v and 480v and 1phase or 3phase.
AC (alternating current ie like house current) motors operate on alternating current but so do
DC (direct current) motors! Whats up? Motors are made for all kinds of applications. In your
shop you most likely have 110v AC 1 phase typical house current. You want a 110v AC 1
phase motor. Look for things like Heavy Duty Use 110v AC 1ph or Farm Use AC 110V
1ph. The voltage, phase, HP, RPM and rotation will always be stamped onto the motor ID
plate attached to the motor. Shy away from any motors that dont have this basic information.
House current is 1 phase. Industrial plants often use 3 phase power. You dont have that in
your house so dont buy a motor that uses only 3 phase power. Many motors can use 1 phase or
3 phase power. You just have to wire them up a little differently.
DC motors actually operate on AC current but are wired differently internally using powerful
permanent magnets to produce their power. There are specific reasons for using a DC motor
instead of an AC motor. We are going to leave it at this. An AC motor is almost always quite a
bit cheaper than a DC motor. Get an AC motor. If you know the reasons a DC motor is
sometimes preferred over an AC, you dont need to be reading this. You want a 110V AC 1
phase motor.
What if I have 220v (230v, 240v) power available in my shop?
Great! Your motor might be cheaper! In general, motors that use 220v 1 phase power are
cheaper than dual volt motors or new 110v AC motors. If you have the option of using 220v in
your shop and you know you wont be moving your grinder to another location that does not
have 220v, you should use 220v. Why? Its more efficient to operate a motor on 220v than
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Page - 19 -
110v AC and lets just leave it at that with out getting into a bunch of esoteric electrical
engineering debate.
Motors are just one speed unless you have a controller that varies the speed. That
is expensive. Take the basic motor cost and double or triple it and you can have a variable
speed motor. I think they are worth it and I wouldnt grind knives with out a variable speed
motor after having used one for years. Our NWGS design is on a budget so we use a step down
pulley system. Our design uses either a 3 step or 4 step pulley to change the SFPM (surface
feet per minute) speed of the abrasive belt. You cant do quality work all at full speed ahead.
There are a lot of times when you want to slow things down. Many woods simply burn at high
speed. Knife makers have to slow the belt down when they are working on the finishing polish.
The least expensive way to slow things down is to use the step pulley system in our design.
You have to stop the motor, move the belt over a notch or two and then start back up. It
probably takes longer to write those sentences than it does in practice to actually change the
belt. For a lot more money, you can get a motor speed controller combination that allows you
to control the speed from full blast to dead stop. Like most things, there are trade offs to this.
First it costs a lot more for a speed controller. Second, the slower you go, in many cases, the
less torque the motor has. In other words it may go real slow but looses all the power to grind
in the process. There are many different ways to control the speed of a motor and not every
method suffers from the drawback.
DC motors often can be coupled with a voltage controller (not always) to slow things
down. There is some loss of torque and the motor starts to get jerky at very low speeds. I use a
1 1/2hp DC motor on my KMG knife grinder. It has a Baldor 1 1/2hp DC motor with a
controller built into the base. It works just fine and I wouldnt be with out it. If it ever breaks
down, Ill replace it with a VFD drive and motor though. If you find a DC motor with a
controller at a good price, give it strong consideration. A variable motor will improve your
grinding or sanding quality of work. You cant put any old DC controller and DC motor
together. The controller must be rated to meet or exceed the HP or power rating of the motor.
A word of caution is called for before we talk about AC controllers. You will see AC
Router speed controllers advertised for very little. These claim to slow down an AC motor or
make them variable speed and they do but at a high cost. You can burn your motor out with
these fairly quickly and I advise you to never use one.
AC motors with variable speed must be matched with a proper controller and
should be bought as a set. Controlling the speed of an AC motor is fussy business and in most
cases, when an AC motor is slowed down, you lose a great deal of torque to the point where it
is almost useless under speed. There may be a good deal to be had with a variable speed AC
motor but only if the controller comes with it and it is a proven combination.
There is another form of AC motor/controller combination that is called a VFD, or
variable frequency drive motor. These VFD combinations are almost always used with 220v.
More correctly the controller is called the Drive and the motor is called a VFD type motor. (I
use one of these on my disk grinder and I like it very much. When the DC motor on my grinder
gives out, I will replace it with a VFD motor.) In a nutshell, the VFD takes 1 phase power and
electronically turns this power into 3 phase power to drive a VFD motor which requires 3
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Page - 20 -
phases to operate. VFD motors are priced ridiculously cheap for their horse power rating when
compared to regular AC motors and especially when compared to DC motors. These VFD
motors are commonly used in industry, where most motors are so they are priced very
competitively. A 2hp VFD may be priced at only a $100 dollars where a similar rate AC motor
might be $175 and a DC motor might be $250! The catch is the controller is expensive. Expect
to pay at least $250 to $400 for a controller. The upside to these controllers is they are very
smooth and keep the torque of the motor quite high through nearly the entire speed range. A
VFD motor set up is the most expensive option but to many it is the best option. They give
very smooth infinite speed control with very little loss in torque. The motors are electrically
efficient, very durable as they are generally constructed for an industrial environment and are
usually protected against the elements quite well. Most are TEFC. The Drives however are
usually open and sensitive to dust and will short out if kept exposed to excessive dust,
especially metal dust. Ive lost one controller to this already. Just like motors, you can buy
different levels of protection for the Drives at additional cost. Either keep your drive out of the
dust cloud and protected or pay the extra for a sealed Drive so you dont loose it to premature
electrical shorts. One last thing about Drives, you have to buy one that is rated at least twice
the horse power of the motor. I dont know why, you just do. If you have a 1hp VFD motor,
you need a 2hp rated Drive. This isnt a hard and fast rule, its just a good practice. Ive heard
of several people using a 2hp Drive on a 1 1/2hp VFD motor and doing just fine. It comes
down to a heat issue and shedding heat from process of converting 1 phase to 3 phase. Using
an over rated Drive gives you protection from burning out the electronics under heavy use and
current draw.
Ive recently heard about 110v Drives. I have no experience with them. Most
household circuits are either 15 amp or 20 amp circuits. I can pop the circuit breaker with my 1
1/2hp DC motor by bearing down hard when I am flat grinding. 220v circuits are at least
30amp and usually have room to spare when running a 2hp motor. When a Drive converts 1
phase to 3 phase current, there is some loss in power to heat and the electrical conversion
process. If you use a motor that is 1 1/2hp to 2hp on a 110v Drive, this could possibly draw a
lot more current than the house or shop wiring is designed for. This puts you at risk for
constantly setting off the circuit breaker or even worse, over heating the electrical wiring in
your house and starting a fire. Electricity is dangerous and you should know what you are
doing. If you dont understand what is going on, get some one that is professional or some one
that has experience with the motor and set up you are building.
Some other things you should know about motors that might come up when you are
shopping are:
A Split Phase motor is often used for applications that have a light load initially. It has
start and run windings, both are energized when the motor is started. When the motor reaches
about 75% of its rated full load speed, the starting winding is disconnected by an automatic
switch. You will often hear a click in the motor when it kicks in or shuts down. I have an old
direct drive 1hp grinder that uses this and it works fine. These motors are used when a load is
applied after the motor starts and gets to speed.
A Capacitor Start motor has a capacitor in series with the starting winding and
provides more starting torque with less starting current than the split phase motor. The
capacitor start motor is used for loads which are hard to start like pumps, conveyers,
compressors and other applications where the load is immediate. These motors have good
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Page - 21 -
efficiency and require starting currents of approximately five times full load current. This isnt
always a problem but turning one of these motors on under load may pop a circuit breaker
under the right conditions. The capacitor and starting windings are disconnected from the
circuit by an automatic switch when the motor reaches about 75% of its rated full load speed.
So after all that what should you get for your motor if you want to vary the speed?
On a budget: use a 3 or 4 step pulley and get a single speed CCW 1 1/2hp AC 110v
TEFC motor. You can try a 1hp but you will regret it if you do any heavy grinding at all. Using
a single drive pulley with a single slave pulley is the absolute cheapest way if you only need or
want one single speed. I am very impressed with how elegant and inexpensive a solution a 3
step pulley setup is. Changing speeds by changing the belt from one set of pulleys to another is
very fast and easy usually 3 or 4 seconds is all it takes.
Middle of the road: A 1 1/2hp DC motor paired with a speed controller. Ive heard of
a lot of guys using tread mill DC motor and controller pulls or surplus that work well. These
are open case motors and controllers and you will have to take some steps to protect the motor
and controller from dust, especially metal dust.
Top the line (if you have 220v): A 1 1/2hp or 2hp VFD motor controller combination.
If you havent worked with motors before, these are complex and you should work with a
dealer and pay a little more than taking a chance on going mail order or through eBay. Many
dealers dont know much about VFD motors and controllers. Oddly, most electricians know
even less. They simply can not believe that a little box changes 1 phase to 3 phase power.
Make sure that your VFD motor controller is protected from metal dust or has a type 4 NEMA
enclosure (sealed against dust) or it will be just a matter of time before it shorts out in a puff of
smoke.
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Page - 22 -
Copyright 2007 Midwest Knifemakers Supply, LLC www.USAknifemaker.com No part of this document may be copied for distribution in paper form
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Page - 23 -
Measuring:
Use a Carpenters Square to locate your holes, not a tape measure.
Use a scribe to scratch your marks, not a marker or pencil.
To accurately center a hole in a piece of square pipe, measure and scribe from both the top and
the bottom. Usually, the scribe lines will not match exactly so you will need to split the difference
when center punching. This forces you to measure twice and verifies you have the exact center.
Cutting Metal:
Make sure your cuts are square. You will be measuring from these cuts for hole placement and
the tolerances will not allow you the luxury of sloppy cuts. If your cut comes out uneven, file or grind
it square. Losing a fraction of inch in length as compared to the plans of any part due to squaring it up
will not be a problem in this design.
Clean up any burrs from your cutting. These burrs are razor sharp and you will eventually get
cut or scraped from these.
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Page - 24 -
Copyright 2007 Midwest Knifemakers Supply, LLC www.USAknifemaker.com No part of this document may be copied for distribution in paper form
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Page - 25 -
Abrasive material:
AO or Alumina Oxide: Commonly found in wood working abrasives. It is usually on the very low
end of quality and price. AO belts wear out quickly when used for metal but are very appropriate for
shaping and sanding handle material or even leather. Usually brown or sand in color and typically
highly friable which means it breaks up easily and exposes new sharp edges.
SC or Silicon Carbide: Usually black or gray in color. You will often find this in wet/dry sand paper
marketed toward the automotive body repair market. Often used on metal or paint. It is more friable
than AO and wears very quickly. Most often consumed in sheet form. It is not commonly found in
belts.
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Page - 26 -
AZ or Alumina Zirconia: Typically referred to simply as Zirc belts. This is very hard stuff and is
used in better or high quality belts. The downside to using belts with abrasive this hard is that you
have to use a fair amount of pressure to break the material down to expose fresh, sharp edges. This
isnt usually a problem grinding knife blanks, especially with the harder super steels used in todays
knives. The low friability is a problem grinding or sanding wood or other natural material. Zirc or
Ceramic belts are recommended for knife grinding. They are more expensive but will out last several
AO belts.
Cork Belts: These belts have a thick surface of cork bonded to a belt backing. AO is embedded into
the cork to provide a grinding surface that has some give to it but will still grind or polish, depending
on the grit size.
Ceramic: A man made material just about as hard as diamonds in some cases. Ceramics are top of the
line in metal grinding abrasives but most experienced knife grinders consider them worth the expense.
Ceramic belts are more than just natural material glued to a belt. These abrasives are designed from
the bottom up for friability, uniform grain or grit size, cooler grinding temperatures and very long life.
A ceramic belt will out last several AO belts and while they are often 3 or 4 times higher in price than
an AO belt, they will almost always out last those 3 or 4 belts and provide better performance. These
belts are as hard as they get abrasive wise but also have different levels of friability designed into them
for various applications. If you find ceramic belts dont stay sharp as long as you think they should,
increase the pressure of your grinding application to break up the ceramic material and expose fresh,
new sharp edges. A quality ceramic belt is usually the most expensive belt initially but ultimately the
cheapest belt due to its long life and very consistent performance.
Engineered Abrasives: These premium belts are designed for specific applications. They have very
uniform abrasive material and can go to very small grit size. Norton Norax belts are an excellent
quality belt using engineered abrasives that are as small as 5x microns or about 1200 SAE grit. Norax
are exceptionally good metal finishing belts but are nearly worthless on any other material as they
release dark gray abrasive dust that tends to stain anything other than metal.
Copyright 2007 Midwest Knifemakers Supply, LLC www.USAknifemaker.com No part of this document may be copied for distribution in paper form
or electronic form for any reason with out the express written permission of Tracy Mickley at Midwest Knifemakers Supply, LLC
FEPA
FEPA
U.S. Graded(CAMI)
Grit Grit Diameter Microns Microns Diameter Grit Grit Diameter Microns
0.3
0.0000118
36.0
0.00140
0.5
0.0000197
40.0
0.001575
1.0
0.0000394
2.0
0.0000787
44.0
0.00172
3.0
0.000118
45.0
0.00177
4.0
0.000158
50.0
0.00197
5.0
0.000197
53.5
0.00209
6.0
0.000236
55.0
0.00217
6.5
0.00026
66.0
9.0
0.00035
9.2
0.00036
12.0
0.00047
12.2
0.00048
15.0
0.00059
16.0
0.00062
600 P1200
0.00060
19.7
0.00077
500 P1000
0.00071
20.0
0.00079
23.6
0.00092
25.0
0.00098
28.8
0.00112
30.0
0.00118
Page - 27 -
1200
360 P600
P500
0.00100
0.00118
P360 0.00158
40.5
P320 0.00180
46.2
280
52.5
0.00257
220 P220
0.00254
65.0
78.0
0.00304
180
P180 0.00304
78.0
93.0
0.00363
150
P150 0.00378
97.0
116.0
0.00452
120
P120 0.00495
127.0
141.0
0.0055
100
P100 0.00608
156.0
192.0
0.00749
80
P80
0.00768
197.0
15.3
268.0
0.01045
60
P60
0.01014
260.0
18.3
351.0
0.0139
50
P50
0.01271
326.0
428.0
0.0169
40
P40
0.01601
412.0
535.0
0.02087
36
P36
0.02044
524.0
638.0
0.02488
30
P30
0.02426
622.0
715.0
0.02789
24
P24
0.02886
740.0
905.0
0.03535
20
P20
0.03838
984.0
1320.0
0.05148
16
P16
0.05164
1324.0
1842.0
0.07174
12
P12
0.06880
1764.0
800
0.00085
35.0
0.00204
400 P800
0.00137
240 P280
1000
320 P400
21.8
25.8
30.2
Copyright 2007 Midwest Knifemakers Supply, LLC www.USAknifemaker.com No part of this document may be copied for distribution in paper form
or electronic form for any reason with out the express written permission of Tracy Mickley at Midwest Knifemakers Supply, LLC
Page - 28 -
May
We have added plans for a Swivel Arm attachment. These plans are optional as are all the attachments.
Some people find the Swivel Arm option as a very attractive alternative to tool arms.
April 4/14/12
Reviewed for digital version release. Minor formatting changes.
9/4/12
Final formatting for digital release.
Copyright 2007 Midwest Knifemakers Supply, LLC www.USAknifemaker.com No part of this document may be copied for distribution in paper form
or electronic form for any reason with out the express written permission of Tracy Mickley at Midwest Knifemakers Supply, LLC