ISSUE 25009

2
A TUMN
U

FREE

Get a taste
for London’s
local Beers
DISCOVER
our British Food
Fortnight TOP 5

Organic food:
Rocked but
still on a roll
SUSTAINABLE CHEWING GUM * CHEF SALLY CLARKE * PIE & MASH
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With harvest time approaching you
probably won’t have time to read
this as you’ll be too busy reaping
the rewards of a bountiful crop
(unless, like me, they’ve fallen
victim to hoards of molluscs). When
you’re not getting your hands dirty,
you’ll be spoilt for choice for events
– whether it’s harvest festival,
British Food Fortnight, Biodynamic
Food Fortnight or Apple Day –
there’s lots coming up (see the diary
on p23).
Also in this issue, we’re pleased to be
Fortnight – will come under a lot more
scrutiny this year. The organic sector has
come under a lot of flack with dropping
sales, and the recent research by the Food
Standards Agency on the nutritional
benefits of organics (see the letter of the
issue on this topic). It would be easy to say
to the naysayers – ‘well, your loss!’ After all,
if you want to eat food that often doesn’t
taste as good (certainly when compared
with intensively produced supermarket
‘fuel’) and is laden with god-knows-what
cocktail of chemicals – then it’s your
choice. But for a movement steeped in
campaigning, it is inconceivable that
organic promoters will give up on trying to
convince the unconverted. While many
people aren't able to choose organic –
whether through lack of cash or simply
because it isn't available everywhere -
many can make the choice, and still don't.
On The Menu: Sally Clarke 11
Organic Feature: Organic Fortnight 12
Chicza Organic Chewing Gum 15
A Taste of London: Pie and Mash 17
Shop Window: The Farm Collective 18
So now, more than ever, we need to
promote the organic movement. This is Reader’s Kitchen 19
why our colleagues at Sustain have About London Food Link 21
brought together the leading organic
businesses in the UK (including Alara, as Diary 23
featured in the previous Jellied Eel) to take
this forward. The campaign needs your
support in its quest to lever funding from Thanks to the Team
the EU (something most other EU
countries have been doing for years on this Content: London Food Link
issue!). To encourage you we have some
Editor: Ben Reynolds
Contributors: Katherine Bryant, Gaby De
organic goodies up for grabs on p12.
All you have to do is come up with a slogan
Sena, Jamie Ford, Ellie Garwood, Jennifer
Gaskin, Polly Higginson, Seb Mayfield,
Tom Moggach, Hannah Williams
for the campaign*…
Produced and Published: Hand Up Media
Directors: Tania Pramschufer
and Katie Williamson
adding lots of new features, including Design: Martin Seagar
a reader’s kitchen, and taste of London. Advertising: Rosie Pramschufer,
The latter will, over future issues, look at Wolff Pramschufer
Advertising design support:
different traditional London recipes, the
Patricia Henningsson
stories behind them and how to create
them using sustainable ingredients. The Jellied Eel is the free quarterly magazine for
If you’ve come across any traditional dishes sustainable food in London, produced by London
Food Link and Hand Up Media. The magazine has
from Chelsea buns to Lord Mayor’s trifle, a 20,000 circulation, and is distributed to all
please send them in… London Food Link members, and via shops, cafes,
restaurants, bars, and entertainment venues.
*Please note we are not obliged to use any of
the entries as the slogan for this campaign, Advertising & Sponsorship Enquiries
but all will be considered. tania@handupmedia.co.uk
katie@handupmedia.co.uk
Telephone: 0131 226 2674
www.handupmedia.co.uk
Editorial Enquiries
ben@sustainweb.org 020 7837 1228
www.londonfoodlink.org
Distribution Enquiries
to stock the Jellied Eel
polly@sustainweb.org 020 7837 1228

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m^eb[\eeZicWha[j$Yec that the product of service is endorsed by London Food Link or Sustain.
02/03
 ach
Calendars provided by Tom Mogg

!
growing calendar
SEPTEMBER
l varieties such as
With garlic, choose unusua
Something Fishy in London
COBNUTS
Mostly grown in Kent,
nal
this cultivated variety of
treat. Crack from their
hazelnut is a traditio
ast until crunchy and
shells and eat fresh. Ro
sprinkle with sea sal t. Us e in pestos or stir into
creamy rice puddings.
. Push individual cloves

London’s shoppers are the least likely

UK to buy sust ainable fish, a majo r surv
in the
ey has
Letter of the Issue! Elephant or Purple

sow in large mo dul

Mo ldo
into soil or compost, abo
e trays
van
ut two inches deep. Or
and plant out in spring.
Also in season: sweetcor
cucumbers, damsons,
tern ut squ
n, autumn lamb, pears,
spinach, venison,
ash, sorrel.
revealed. A Yougov survey for Wait rose found artichokes, but
ket, land cress, winter
that only 44 per cent said they were
willing to Sow winter lettuces, roc
pay more to help protect stocks,
UK average of 51 per cent . Worr
well below a
ying ly, 72 per
Dear Jellied Eel purslane and Orient
komatsuna.
al leaves such as mizuna and
OCTOBER
not even t awa re that som e species OYSTERS
cent were The point the Food Standards Agency and others seem to miss in the es in a paper bag with

London’s
wing the Place nearly ripe tomato d for the poor; now
were endangered. However, follo elerate the ripening Oysters were once a foo fe
the Line, recent coverage on nutrients in organic produce, is that anyone working a banana – the gases acc sav e cash, buy an oyster kni
launch of the documentary End of they’re a luxury. To
re in the fridge, with
ing to e. Sto
more of Lond on’s resta uran ts are mov in the food policy arena could have advised the FSA before they process. and shuck them at hom ards
ll facing upw
take endangered species off the list. commissioned the report, that is there's a lack of evidence in this the flat face of the she

FARMS
Here are some of those leading the
way: field. The FSA report doesn't say that one is better than the other, it OCTOBER
beans, plant outside to SLOES
just says there is a lack of compelling evidence. Why have they chosen If you’re a fan of broad e gin, prick the fruit wit
h
start on next year. You should have To make a batch of slo
Paternoster Chop House, St Pau
ls get a head gin and sug ar for a mo nth
k to use headline grabbing statements, which do not really encapsulate your first crop by Ma y or June. a needle, then soak in
www.paternosterchophouse.co.u every week.
ainable fish caught off the the report’s findings? or two. Give it a shake
Serving ultra-fresh, sust
and Dylan Bean On allotments or garden
s, sow hardy green Almost a tenth of Greater
Cornish coast by expe rts Chris ls, chestnuts, pears,
bare soil. Field beans, Also in season: musse London – equivalent to
Why are they spending limited government resources to carry out an academic manures on patches of erberries, kohlrabi,
ver, rye and tares will all overwinter. quince, grouse, kale, eld
Moshi Moshi, Liverpool Street and report, probably costing tens of thousands of pounds, to tell us what we already know: crimson clo oom s, watercress, around 16,000 football
o.uk pheasant, wild mushr
Canary Wharf, www.moshimoshi.c there is no compelling evidence in this field. If the FSA had spent the es.
their menus elderberries, squash pitches - is farmland.
Have remo ved blue-fin tuna from
and sell a great range of sustaina
be fish money doing nutritional analysis of various organic and so called conventional NOVEMBER
in small urban spaces.
ties goods, then possibly there would now be some real evidence, rather than Your can grow apples
including many MSC certified varie ’ or ‘minaret’ varieties
-
Investigate the ‘ballerina
aikens.co.uk
this inconclusive literature review.
compact trees that gro
w on one ver tica l stem. NOVEMBER But is the capital
Tom Aikens, Chelsea, www.tom reaching its true
on Pape r's 'Know the At the same time, they could have considered the non-financial costs of each CHESTNUTS
At the forefront of the Lond a new lease of life, lift hard and shiny. Try
Tom is not serving To give clumps of chives Buy chestnuts that are agricultural potential?
price of your fish cam paign', system, the perceived benefits or otherwise, real price comparisons, why and divide. Pot on any surplus the skin, roast for
list' from the ground chestnuts: slit
any species on the MCS 'fish to avoid supermarkets package organic produce, what are the nutritional ramifications ‘drunke n’
shaking half way
and give to friends. fifteen minutes at 200 ºC,
of homogenising and pasteurising milk, I could go on.... wine and eat warm. This is the question posed
Feng Sushi, Kensington, Borough
Market, through, then soak in red
am, Nott ing Hill,
ival Hall, Fulh by a new investigation by
what’s in season?
Roy al Fest Tom Beeston // Eat England // tom@eatengland.org
Chalk Farm, www.fengsushi.co.
uk
CRANBERRIES
Celebrating 10 years of sustainability
in 2009 and h sugar, grated ginger
and the London Assembly into
range of sust ainable Simmer cranberries wit ce for game.
ld. Fant astic sim ple sau commercial agriculture
so they shou a splash of water for a
species on their menus Tom Beeston receives this mouth-watering goodie bag of SEPTEMBER in London. For more
leeks, quinces, goose,
cereals kindly supplied by Rude Health. www.rudehealth.com APPLES Also in season: parsnips, ts,
The Clerkenwell Kitchen, Clerkenw
ell,
is the first variety on wild mushrooms, walnu information, or to contribute
k The aromatic Discovery Jerusalem artichokes,
www.theclerkenwellkitchen.co.u by Early Windsors, pheasant, lee ks, rab bit.
- Known for serving all things ethic
al, Emma shop shelves, followed
and Suffolk Pinks.
your views, please contact:
, Kat y
and Laura serve wonderfu lly fresh and carefully Worcester Pearmains
selected spec ies day in day out paul.watling@london.gov.uk
70 Young's pubs in
London will be offering
special British Food
Fortnight menus.
Pamela Troni www.pamelaphotogr
aphy.com www.youngs.co.uk

night TOP 5!
3 5

Our British Food Fort

ents
tober, a number of ev
ber and 4th Oc John Lewis stores around
Between 19th Septem on, here’s our our TOP
5!
ace around Lond London are running a competition 4
JOIN THE CL
are taking pl 2 for their chefs to design a menu UB
to run throughout British Food The Farmers
The Royal Brompton Hospital Club, in White
Fortnight. Main course dishes farming mem hall, is inviting
in Sydney Street, who buy bers to provid its
1 Paxton & Whitfield 25% of their produce locally, will contain four British ingredients special British e produce for a
and pudding dishes must include Food Fortnigh
of Jermyn Street will be running a special is celebrating British Food t menu.
promotion of British cheeses during British Fortnight 2009 by offering Bramley apples (which celebrates Contact: 020
Food Fortnight 2009. menus incorporating British its 200th birthday this year). 7930 3751
www.paxtonandwhitfield.co.uk ingredients for patients, www.lovebritishfood.co.uk
staff and visitors.
04/05
 4 5
LONDON’S John Carey

COMMUNITY
VINEYARD EN1

AROUND TOWN Over 100 volunteers have

planted 1500 Bacchus vines
to launch a groundbreaking
new vineyard project in
London. Forty Hall Vineyard
is a new social enterprise
DISCOVER WHAT’S HAPPENING supported by Capel Manor
Horticultural College, which
IN YOUR AREA! GET ALONG hopes to plant several acres E8

AND GET INVOLVED!

of vines at Forty Hall Farm
in Enfield. The vineyard is
Hackney
looking for sponsors and
volunteers to help raise
kitchens get
the funds to plant the happier
1 remaining acres of land Schools in East London will be
E13
QUEENS MARKET 4 ENFIELD
donated by the College. hosting a series of educational

SAVED...FOR NOW
classes about climate change,
www.fortyhallvineyard.org.uk organic farming, seasonality and
Market was healthy, affordable eating from this
In May, Newham’s historic Queens September. The classes, starting
n than ks to local residents,
saved from demolitio
ens Mark et and Lond on’s mayor. at schools in London Fields, are
Frien ds of Que
site to be run by caterer Happy Kitchen to
Boris Johnson vetoed plans for the 3
5
k as part of tie in with Organic Fortnight.
replaced by a 31-storey tower bloc
Happy Kitchen are also working
a redevelopment by St Modwens. 2 1 with local charity Foodworks to
k divert food, before it goes to waste,
www.friendsofqueensmarket.org.u 6
into the kitchens of local community
support groups, including the
Hackney refugee centre.
2
EC1M
BEST BITES
, Smithfield,
London Food Link member, St John
on restaurants, rated 14th
tops the list of Lond to find out more visit:
Pellegrino
best in the world in a survey by San
John are www.happykitchen.org.uk
on the World’s Best restaurants. St
making
renowned for whole carcass use,
.
their own bread and ethical sourcing
6
E14
www.stjohnrestaurant.co.uk
FRUIT & VEG
MAKEOVER
3
FOR LONDON’S
N1
EDIBLE ISLINGTON CORNER SHOPS
ts programme
Edible Islington is a two tiered gran
Cou ncil to supp ort new Tesa’s Regional Store in Poplar, Tesa’s store had stocked no fruit and
launched by Islington
mun ity food grow ing proje cts in the borough. Tower Hamlets is the first of vegetables for years. However, with
com
tal funding
The large grants scheme offers capi 15 stores across London chosen the support of Buywell, Tesa, a sole
ts from to participate in a scheme to trader and female business owner,
from £3,000-£15,000. Small gran
are being
£250-£3,000 are also available and introduce more fresh, affordable and has been enthused to start selling a
ital Grow th. Fund ing sustainably produced fruit and good range of fruit and vegetables.
managed through Cap
able from now until Janu ary 2010. vegetables into areas where access
is avail The Buywell Retail project is
to healthy food is a problem. The
/ managed by London Food Link
www.capitalgrowth.org/grow_food scheme, which is part of the Buywell
and funded by Tower Hamlets
gton/ project, supports small independent
edible_islin retailers and larger Symbol Groups
NHS Primary Care Trust, London
Development Agency and the
(Costcutter, Londis etc) to increase
for more information visit: their stock range, ensuring high
Big Lottery.

www.sustainweb.org quality and enhancing their displays

and marketing.

For more information contact: hannah@sustainweb.org

06/07
local to london

London’s
LOCAL BEERS
London, unbeknown to most Londoners, is home to a host of breweries.
We have big breweries, like Fuller’s, putting London on the map, and
smaller specialist breweries, like Sambrook’s, promoting English
producers and traditional methods. Ellie Garwood explores….

Indulging in a locally brewed tipple helps to Micro breweries // Various Venues

reduce food (or drink) miles, promote skilled Micro breweries are, as the name suggests,
brewers, and support local breweries. But is breweries on a small scale and are on the site of
being local enough to be sustainable? the pub or restaurant that owns them. Venues
in London that feature their own micro breweries
Some believe being organic, carbon neutral or include The Florence (Dulwich), Zero Degrees
biodynamic are key factors in any sustainable (Blackheath), The Horseshoe (Hampstead), and
produce, and companies such as Fuller’s and Bunker Bar (Covent Garden).
Samuel Smith now offer organic options to cater
for these customers, with smaller companies, Whether being local entitles London beers to
such as Daas beer and Black Isle Brewery, bona fide sustainable status is debatable, but
solely producing organic beer. For biodynamic the fact that you can drink a pint round the
beers Vollmond is a common favourite, corner from the brewery it was produced in
and even a carbon neutral beer, East Green, by has got to account for at least some worthy
Adnams, is now available. eco-credentials. And if that’s not enough to
sway you, how about supporting local
Many, however, believe that being local is economies, local skilled brewers and an integral
also integral to sustainability, and for these part of British heritage? Surely we can all drink
local beer enthusiasts London is a to that. Eel readers keep your eye out for
frothy-headed treasure trove. more on London’s real ale pubs in the coming
months.
Meantime Brewing Company // Greenwich
Meantime brew eleven different types of beer To sample one of the locally
and its range is nothing if not diverse. Varieties brewed beers check out:
include a Fairtrade coffee beer, raspberry beer
and even chocolate beer. L’Oasis / Stepney Green
(Meantime)
Fuller’s // Chiswick
Undoubtedly one of the most famous London Brew Wharf / Borough
breweries, Fuller’s has been in business since (Meantime)
1845. London Pride, as many will know, is its The White Horse
flagship beverage, but there are over 12 beers in Parsons Green (Meantime)
the core range, including organic options and
seasonal beers. Earl Ferrers / Streatham
Top to bottom: Sambrook’s, Fullers and Fullers
(Sambrook’s)
Sambrook’s Brewery // Battersea
Avalon / Balham
Sambrook’s, which celebrated its first birthday
(Sambrook’s)
in August, aims to reignite the art of craft brew-
ing. Its sole beer, Wandle Ale, is brewed using Coach and Horses For an extensive list of stockists visit:
traditional methods and materials from local Brixton (Sambrook’s)
English producers; in addition, Sambrook’s uses www.sambrooksbrewery.co.uk
Maris Otter malt from Warminster Maltings, one Duke of Wellington www.meantimebrewing.com
of the few remaining floor maltings in the country. Hackney (Sambrooks’s) www.fullers.co.uk

LOVERS OF REAL ALE OF ALL KINDS CAN, OF COURSE, GET EXTENSIVE INFORMATION FROM
THE CAMPAIGN FOR REAL ALE, VISIT: WWW.CAMRA.ORG.UK TO FIND OUT MORE! 08/09
 on the menu
Seasonal
Sally

o.uk
rbles.c
agicma
www.m
chaert:
e Plass
A lot has changed since Sally Clarke first

Isabell
opened her innovative eatery, Clarke’s
on Kensington Church Street in 1984,
Katherine Bryant finds out more…

Clarke’s, a restaurant focused on fish and vegetables – buying the

seasonal food with a preference for highest quality ingredients served
local supplies, quickly expanded at their peak of freshness.
from a space with the capacity to “The constant changing of the
serve around 20 to accommodate ingredients available allows the
over 90 seats. By 1988, Clarke’s menus to be constantly refreshed
included a now award-winning and as a consequence, the
bakery and shop selling breads customers also.”
baked daily, local cheeses and
Sally advocates supporting local
hand-crafted truffles. Today, the
farmers' markets, growing your
shop sells over 600 rotating items, RECIPE
own and incorporating a system
from jams and pickles to soups,
of bartering with friends and Wild Mushro
salads and sauces - most of which o
are made in-house.
neighbours. For example, one of with Gorgonz ms Baked in Cream
o
her customers presses his own 600g wild m la Mascarpone
Clarke’s delivers breads and olives in Provence and produces ushrooms, br
and trimmed u
breakfast goods to over 100 olive oil used in the restaurant’s of discoloure shed
50g butter d parts
wholesale customers daily kitchen in exchange for lunches 2 cloves garlic
, cr
including Searcy’s, Harrods, and dinners. Food inspired by such Salt and pepp ushed to a cream with sa
Fortnum and Mason, Galvin’s, the transactions eases the challenges er lt
2 tbsp chopp
House of Commons and Admirable that come with creating a seasonal ed flat-leaf
and 6 sprigs pa rsley,
Crichton. Despite these changes menu. Creating such a menu fo
2 tsp chopp r garnish
and the evolution of one woman’s depends on “getting the balance ed fresh rose
and 6 sprigs mary,
culinary vision, Clarke’s maintains right, the colours, textures and fo
its sense of community with making sure that ingredients are
450ml doubl r garnish
e cream
familiar faces and the regular not too readily repeated in a menu.
60g Gorgonz
ola mascarpo
customers – even in the heart of Often menus are finalised five
ne
bustling Kensington! In fact, some minutes before the customers Preheat the ov
en to 180ºC/35
Cut the mushr 0ºF/gas mark
of the original growers attracted to arrive.” After a successful 25-year ooms into large 4.
her kitchens still provide produce run, the customers are the Heat the butte even-sized pi
r in a heavy-ba eces.
that appears on the day’s menu. convincing testament to the fact add the garli sed non-stic
c and when si k frying pan,
that Clarke’s continues to achieve zzling add th
Toss over a hig e mushroom
After immersion in the food culture h heat and co s.
the right balance in seasonal, fresh Season with ok until almos
of Paris while studying at Cordon salt, pepper, t tender.
food creations. remove with pa rs
Bleu School, and a friendship and a slotted spoo ley and rosemary and
To the remain n to an ovenpr
mentorship with Alice Waters of ing juices in th oof dish.
Clarkes and reduce by e pan add the
Chez Panisse in California, Sally a third. Taste cream
122 & 124 and pour over for seasoning
Clarke returned to London with the mushroom
Kensington Church St Bake for 10 – s.
dreams for her own dining venture. 15 minutes or
London W8 4BH has bubbled until the crea
m
Sally’s hope was to serve a and started to
www.sallyclarke.com edges // Scoo brown at the
4-course daily changing menu p Gorgonzola
into walnut-s mascarpone
depending on the available fruits, ized pieces,
mushrooms dot it over th
and allow it to e
it is served // melt as
Garnish with
of parsley an sp rigs
d rosemary.

Sally Clarke’s Book: Recipes from a Restaurant, Shop & Bakery

is out now, published by Grub Street www.grubstreet.co.uk

10/11
organic Feature
organic food
fortnight
As the Soil Association prepares for Organic Fortnight, Gaby De Sena
embarks on their challenge to host an organic dinner party on a budget
and discovers that delicious organic food doesn’t cost the earth.
In recent years, buying organic has
become a trendy way to assert your
eco-conscious consumerism. The Soil
Association works to make sure that it is
not just a food fashion but rather a
sustainable way of life. This year’s Organic
Fortnight will be held from 5th – 20th
September, celebrating all things organic
and focusing on value for money.
Organic food is produced without pesticides or
fertilisers and ensures animal welfare, but at
what cost to us? With the recession tugging
on our purse strings, the Soil Association is
showing that by going organic, you are actually
getting a lot more for your money. Eager to test
this claim, I got involved by holding an organic
“credit crunch dinner”. But as my fleeting
bravery dissipated, I fell victim to the common
reservations we have about organic food: Will it
be any better? How much will it cost?
The Soil Association’s website is a bible of
inspiring money-saving tips like “write a
shopping list” to avoid waste, or “sign up to a
vegbox scheme”. However, I was most
attracted to “eat less meat”. With livestock
contributing 30% of greenhouse gas emissions
globally, I went one step further and held a
vegetarian dinner party. This would save both
money and the planet, and would distract from
the fact that, as a lapsed vegetarian, one of the
only fleshy dishes I can master is the bacon
sandwich.
In London, we needn’t rush to supermarkets
when there is a wealth of independent organic
stockists. I scooped up my loose goods at
Unpackaged and visited Planet Organic where I
found everything I needed from Marigold’s
Organic Vegetable Stock to Crazy Jack’s
Organic Raisins. The assumption that organic
food is undersized and misshapen is ludicrous;
the shelves were heaving with bright and bulky
produce and although I noticed prices were
higher than non-organic food, I understood that
the cost included not only quality, quantity and
taste but also ethics, health and peace of mind.
For starters, I served stuffed red peppers
followed by a summer vegetable risotto.
For dessert, to completely undermine the
preceding guiltless courses, I made rich
chocolate pots with organic strawberries and
mini meringues - an instant crowd pleaser.
(Contact me through thejelliedeel@sustain
web.org if you ever want the recipes by the way)
After some mathematical mastery, I deduced
that my three-course dinner party cost a mere
£5.28 per head – cheaper than takeaway pizza
and far tastier! The challenge was a success all
around and whilst I do not expect everyone to
convert to an organic lifestyle overnight, my
senses have certainly been honed to this sus-
tainable and satisfying alternative. Budget
brands are all too tempting, especially
when feeding families. But with support from
organisations such as the Soil Association, we
can all make small changes with a big impact
on our health, conscience and environment.
WIN !
WINE
Planet Organic, London’s leading organic
retailer is now trading on-line.
Great selection of groceries from raw chocolate to brown sushi rice
Speciality diet search facility and dedicated gluten free home page
Jean Bousquet Tupungato
Extensive organic beers, wine and spirits offer
Malbec 2007, Winner Gold Medal
International wine Challenge 2009 Luxurious natural skincare brands
Wide range of health supplements
Recipes, tips and blogs from our organic experts
Gaby De Sena
SPECIAL OFFER FOR JELLIED EEL READERS
10% OFF YOUR
FIRST ORDER
(Enter voucher code: Jellied)
www.planetorganic.com
YOUR CHANCE TO WIN!
We are offering a prize of one year's Soil
Association membership as a reader prize
for The Jellied Eel. As well as receiving the
quarterly Living Earth magazine and
The UK’s Unpackaged
Your local, packaging free, organic grocery
discounts on a range of organic products,
membership will also entitle you to up to
25% off Organic Farm School courses.
leading organic Weekdays 10am – 7pm, Saturdays 9am – 6pm
The courses provide the opportunity to
learn practical skills from organic farmers -
in bee-keeping, chicken keeping, vegetable
wine specialist Packaging free shopping, fresh goods,
growing, willow weaving, hedge laying, dry wholefoods, refillable environmentally
stone walling, and many others.
friendly toiletries and cleaning products
To be in with a chance of winning this and much more.
membership plus a bottle of Vintage Roots FREE
organic wine, please come up with a slogan Bring your own containers and 500g refill!
for Sustain’s new campaign to promote the
save 50p each time you refill of any wholefo
Organic movement (See www.organicuk.org). ods when
you bring this
ad and
your own cont
Please send your ideas to: ainer
thejelliedeel@sustainweb.org
addressed ‘organic competition’*
*Please note we are not obliged to use
any of the entries as the slogan for
this campaign, but all will be considered.
For more information visit:
www.soilassociation.org
0800 980 4992 www.beunpackaged.com
vintageroots.co.uk 42 Amwell Street, London, EC1R 1XT, Tel: 020 7713 8368
12/13
 Tuition, Catering and Market Tours OLIVER’S
FRESH ORGANIC
PRODUCE C H I C Z A
A natural solution to
! special feature

Fulvia Eccardi

roblem
NO NO TOXIC

a very sticky p
ARTIFICIAL TREATMENT
COLOURING AFTER HARVEST
NO COSMETIC
WAX COATING
GROWN WITHOUT
GROWN ARTIFICIAL
WITHOUT FERTILISERS It takes 17 weeks for chewing gum to be removed from the entire length of
CHEMICAL
PESTICIDES Oxford Street, yet in just 10 days the sticky stuff is bothering the soles of all
who dare to tread there once again. But now, a rainforest community could
transform our pavements forever, with the invention of the world’s first fully
NO WONDER OLIVER’S ORGANICALLY GROWN biodegradable chewing gum. Jennifer Gaskin explores…
FRUIT AND VEGETABLES ARE SO MUCH BETTER
FOR YOU AND YOUR FAMILY
Oliver’s fruit and vegetables are good enough to eat!
While huge swathes of other
rainforests have been devastated
Around 2,000 chicleros organised
themselves into 56 co-operatives
The finished gum, available from
Mexican restaurant chain Wahaca
for more
:HDOVRVWRFNRUJDQLFPHDWÀVKZLQHVHJJVFKRFRODWHDQG by some human activity, the Gran called the Consorcio Chiclero and, and branches of Waitrose in mint, information visit:
wide range of organic foods, raw foods as well as natural
remedies and bodycare.
Petén in south-east Mexico has together with their families, they spearmint and lime, is 100% www.chicza.com
actually been safeguarded by the manage the production, logistics biodegradable and certified
KEW VILLAGE Mayan community, who have and finance for the chewing organic. Within six weeks of being
&RRNLQJ& ODVVHV ‡([TXLVLWH&DWHULQJ 5 STATION APPROACH
KEW GARDENS
called it home for over a century.
Traditionally, the men in this area of
gum, called Chicza. And, by
transforming chicle into a finished
disposed of, it either dissolves
harmlessly into water or is
Guide d Market Tours & Meet the Producer RICHMOND, TW9 3QB forest are chicleros (gum farmers) product of its own, the farmers are absorbed into the soil.
0208 948 3990 who make a living by scaling the earning six times more than they
Tailor Made Cooking Lessons for small group s oliverswholefoods.co.uk 33-metre-tall chicozapote trees and previously could.
Next to Kew Gardens Tube Station extracting the sap. Manuel Aldrete, Managing
Each co-operative manages its
www.sarahmoore.co.uk For more than 100 years the own section of the 1.3 million Director of Chicza says;
chicleros have been selling the hectare area of forest used “Our farmers believe that
sap (chicle), to chewing gum to produce Chicza. Once a UK customers will understand
manufacturers around the globe. chicozapote is tapped, the
and appreciate what they have
However, when the major sap flows down the bark and is
brands started to opt for collected in a bag at the base. The created and will want to
making local food wo
work:
ork: non-biodegradable petrochemicals tree is then allowed to rest for six to support this unique rainforest
instead of chicle, the farmer’s seven years before being harvested product, by buying it.”
community enterprise
ente
erprise income begin to wane. So, five again. This careful process has
years ago, they united to create a been observed since the days
and the future of
o food brand-new chewing gum that was of the Mayan Empire and is now
100% biodegradable and based certified by the Forest Stewardship
on their own sustainable farming Council. After collection, the sap is
Wednesday 30th September, practices. boiled and blended with organic
Marriott City Centre Hotel, Bristol. 10am - 4pm. sweeteners and natural forest
flavours before being shaped into
squares.
The second Making Local Food W Work
ork conference
nference will examine
examin the
key role that food-based commu
community
unity enterprises
erprises can play in shaping
g
a sustainable, equitable food system for Britain in the future.

Speakers include:
Barny
Bar ny Haughton, Chef-Prop
Chef-Proprietor
prietor
ietor of Bordeaux
Quay Restaurant; Professo
Professorr Kevin
K Morgan, Professor
of Gover
Governance
nance and Develo
Development
o
opment at Cardiff University;
Dr TTom
om
o MacMillan, Directo
Director
o of the Food Ethics Council;
or
TTim
im Crabtree, Director of LLocal
ocal Food Links

TTickets
ickets £40 + V
VAT.
AT. To
To book a place,
placce, please download a form
form from:
www.makinglocalfoodwork.co.uk/conference
www.makinglocalfoodwork.co.uk/cconference or telephone: 01993 814 385

For more information about Making Local Food Work

www.makinglocalfoodwork.co.uk

14/15
 A taste of London

pie &
FOR THE FILLING
1kg finely diced beef chuck
2 large onions, finely diced
2 tbsp plain flour
1 tsp English mustard powder
4 flat mushrooms, finely chopped

mash
1 bayleaf
2 sprigs of thyme
2 tsp Worcestershire sauce
300ml brown ale

FOR THE PARSLEY LIQUOR

25g butter
25g plain flour
300ml chicken stock
1 bunch of flat-leaf parsley,
finely chopped
1 tsp malt vinegar

WHERE TO SHOP
while you probably know where to
get most of these ingredients we
thought we’d give you a few ideas
for some of them

Meat // Beatbush Organic Farm

(www.beatbushorganicfarm.co.uk/)
sell at London Farmers Market, organic
butchers such as Sheepdrove, Maida
Vale (www.sheepdrove.com/)

Plasschaert: www.magicmarbles.co.uk Flour // Doves Organic(www.dove

farm.co.uk/), Shipton Mill Flour
(www.shiptonmill.com/) Bacheldre

Pie & Mash has been enjoyed in London since the 18th Watermill (www.bacheldremill .co.uk/),
or for London’s local flour – G.R.
Wrights (www.wrightsflour.co.uk/)

RED BY
century. The crowded and dingy slums of the Georgian East End, gave available through the better
SPONSO supermarkets or grocers.
birth to this most epic of comfort foods as hungry Cockneys demanded
Chicken stock // Kallo Organic or
SUMM
E
24
ISSUER 2009 something cheap and filling. Shops kept their prices low by using the Marigold Organic stock available
FREE through the better supermarkets
ethical publishing, cheapest, often dubious cuts of meat and offered the tasty fare at a or grocers.

price lower than the cost of cooking it at home. By Gaby De Sena

event, marketing and Brown Ale // St Peters organic ale or
a bitter such as Surrey’s Hogsback
TEA (traditional English Ale).

FREE LONDON design services. EAST END PIE AND MASH Remove from the pan and place on and make a whole in the top
Also see p8 for ideas.

FAIRTRADE Recipe from cooksforcooks.com absorbent paper while you cook

the onions in the same pan. Add
to allow steam to escape. Bake
in the oven at 170 degrees for
Potatoes // Arron Victory, Desiree,
Kerrs Pink, King Edward,Lady &
GUIDE Innovative, dynamic and ethical marketing to the meat back to the pan with the 30-40 minutes until the pie Maris Piper all good for mashing.

goes 2009
Traditionally served with liquor, a
businesses and organisations across the UK.
London
onions and the mushrooms, cook is golden brown.
green parsley sauce made with the Find unusual potatoes at the Duke
for a few minutes then add the
water left over from stewing eels, of York Square food market

veggie for
Marketing and PR Services including: brown ale to deglaze the pan. Add TO MAKE THE LIQUOR www.partridges.co.uk/foodmarket
THE ULTIMA the dish is still popular today. But
TE the bay leaf and thyme. Add the Melt the butter in a pan and add the
GUIDE TO
FAIRTRADE
Web Design // Brochure Design // Branding and Logos with our growing interest in real
Worcestershire sauce and the Pastry // Either make from scratch or

a week
IN LONDON food, how ethical could today’s Pie flour, stir for 1 minute and slowly add
tomato puree. Add a splash of buy pastry ready made, particularly
Customised Publications and Magazines and Mash be? Try the recipe below the chicken stock. Add more as the
stock, if needed, to loosen the mix. with the puff pastry! Dorset Organic
to find out…. sauce starts to thicken – don’t stop Pastry – see www.dorsetpastry.com/
From concept stage through to distribution stirring or you’ll end up with a lumpy for a list of vendors.
farmers’ Method
10 YEARS of Event Management Services After cooking on a low heat for up mess. Add the parsley and the
markets in London Line the base of the pie tin/tins with to 2 hours, let the filling cool (this vinegar, season with salt and ground Most of the meat, veg and dairy
CAPITAL shortcrust pastry and leave in the step is not essential but really black pepper. Blitz in a liquidiser and will be available at a local farmers’
PRODUCERS market (www.lfm.org.uk) or
THE WORLD’S

ON’S LOCAL
LARGEST FAIRTR

AIGN * LOND
ADE CITY

fridge to rest. improves the flavour). Take the pour into a gravy boat.
REAL BREAD CAMP through a box scheme
BOTANICAL RE
STAURANT SAF *
Sponsored by for more information about filling and fill your pastry case to the
Serve together
(www.sustainweb.org/london
In a heavy based casserole dish, top. Cut out a square of puff pastry foodlink/box_schemes/).
Hand Up Media and our work dust the chuck, the onions and to make a lid for the pie. Using a with mashed
Hand Up Media are proud to produce The Jellied Eel add the beef in the flour and little water ensure the edges are potato and
magazine in association with London Food Link. visit: www.handupmedia.co.uk mustard powder and brown off in all stuck down and crimp the edges ENJOY!
1 tablespoon of vegetable oil. with a fork, brush with egg wash
16/17
 Why is it so hard to find In Farm Collective, Craig and
shop window something decent to eat Dominic have succeeded in
finding a way to bring great quality

r m
on your lunch break? That’s

Fa
ingredients, bought from good

he
what partners Craig Willis

T
suppliers to the capital and turn it
and Dominic Kamara asked into fantastic fast food for
themselves before setting city workers badly in need of an

Co lle ct ive up Farm Collective – a great

little place serving fantastic,
carefully sourced food to
Farringdon and beyond.
alternative to the ubiquitous,
pre-packaged and uninspiring
sarnie. The pair insist on forging
very close relationships with
suppliers and aim to visit every

ht fro m the farm, slap Jamie Ford found out more… farm they deal with. They keep the
Food straig y prices competitive by only using

in the m id dle of the cit It’s Friday lunchtime and Farm fresh produce that’s in season;
bang Collective, the small but perfectly
formed eaterie in EC1, is buzzing.
the menu is always changing
depending on what the farmers
There’s a queue coming out the have to offer.
door and the guys and girls behind

Reader’s
the tills are busy serving the
punters with great looking salads,
TOP BUYS...
sandwiches, pies and fish cakes. In
Seasonal Salad pots including
the middle of the action is Craig
beetroot, spring onion and
(one half of the partnership behind
balsamic glaze and classic

Kitchen
this new fast food concept),
waldorf with shavings of
chatting to his customers about
unpasteurised, mature cheddar
forthcoming menu items while
restocking the shelves with fresh Brand new, freshly made juices
Dartmouth Smokehouse haddock using seasonal fruit and
and new potato salad. I manage to vegetables coming soon
grab his attention for a minute. In
response to my comment on how
busy the place was he replies,
‘I know! It’s great, isn’t it? It seems
Mr Stern’s haddock
and mustard pie
“How Green
91 Cowcross Street, EC1M 6BH
www.farmcollective.com
to get busier every week.’ I believe
him, and I’m pretty sure it will get
busier still.
Seasonal tarts made
fresh daily is Yours?”
Johanna is, in her own words, an On the counter is Johanna’s
In our new feature, HIGH SCORES FOR...

CARE ENOUGH Jellied Eel reader

ethical shopper who has tried
to make shopping decisions
that reflect this. On arriving in
bread maker as she is a fan of
real bread and has a whole shelf in
her kitchen dedicated to various
a meat-free kitchen, high
levels of organic and fair

TO FOSTER? Johanna Wallther,

a single young
Johanna’s kitchen I am struck by
cupboards and a fridge full of food
dominated by dry ingredients and
flours and baking ingredients, most
of which are organic and, in the
case of the sugar, is Fairtrade.
trade products, home-grown
vegetables, no bottled water
or excess packaging, and
kitchen waste is composted.
Can you offer professional living fresh vegetables. Johanna tells Johanna tells me that she also has
me that she eats a largely a loaf of sliced Hovis in the freezer
Advertise in London's in Haringey, North vegetarian diet and, as a rule, for emergency mornings when DEDUCTIONS...
the experience London, bravely put cooks all food from scratch due she hasn’t been organised enough Purchased fruit and veg could
to a love of cooking and also to to bake!
leading ethical food of a family to her kitchen forward save money. Leftovers from dinner
be more seasonal, and a bag
of frozen fish in the freezer was
always transfer to lunch the next In the fridge are organic eggs, from a non-sustainable source.
and drinks magazine! a vulnerable for a grilling. Polly day. She shows me large jars of milk and cheese bought from
nuts, lentils and pulses and a giant the supermarket and a colourful
young person? Higginson, went out drum of organic olive oil all of whichselection of fruit and vegetables
SUMMARY...

Reach 80,000 readers to test how green her were bought from an organic plus a bowl of green salad In summary, a green kitchen
with lots of careful planning to
wholesaler and split with friends to leaves that have been grown in
kitchen was…. save money and time and not
60 London stockists in Interested? save on costs. Johanna’s garden. (She later takes
me outside and is proud to compromise on ethics. Johanna,
There are also recycled jam jars full reveal French beans, beetroot, a The Jellied Eel is inspired!
and around London Contact Victoria of different loose herbs, spices and courgette plant in flower and
tea that she bought loose from containers full of salad leaves,
the Haelan Centre in Crouch End to the rewards of the decision to make
reduce packaging. her overgrown garden in to a Grade: A-
productive space).
NEXT ISS
UE Polly Higginson
DEC 200
9
For media pack email: Johanna gets a free goody bag from the splendid ladies at Happy Kitchen as a thank
tania@handupmedia.co.uk 01254 777 460 / 07501 724 356 you for letting us through her door. If you would like us to consider your kitchen for
our microscope, and win some edible goodies, please contact ben@sustainweb.org.
email: fostering@keyschildcare.co.uk
18/19


FILL IN OUR MEMBERSHIP FORM

he Eel? Name

L0VE t copy
Address

o n F o o d Link and have a

Join Lond r, and
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l is a free publ
ication crea omote people Please write a brief summary of who you are/ your interest in local food
The Jellied Ee issu es in Lo ndon and to pr Link is a
s on local food London Food
raise awarenes orking to im prove things. share this vision.
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charity that ru :
UDE
NEFITS INCL
MEMBER BE delivered to yo
ur
Eel
of the Jellied
> A free copy
rter.
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RATES
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> Membersh
ip o f th e news, funding Jellied Eel individual membership £20 (tick box)
r info rm at io n on local food
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If the fee is not, for whatever reason, a fair reflection of your ability
ation, jo
inform rk Do’s to to pay membership then please get in touch. Please make cheques
e yearly Netwo
ic its members.
u r tw payable to Sustain: the alliance for better food and farming.
n to o
> An invitatio k of Lo nd on Food Link and
wor
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an d sp ec ial offers on en then contact vanessa@sustainweb.org for more information on
d rate in London.
> A discounte en ts happening
how you can be involved with London Food Link.
fo od ev
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on Food Link
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the members
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TO JOIN fill in N1 9PF or ca
White Lion Street, London
c/o Sustain, 94

i n us!
Jo visit us on li ne at:w w w. londo n f o o d l in k. o rg

Our Member Feature

A Closer Look at London
Food Link Member The
Urban Wine Company
The Urban Wine Company was
born two years ago with the popping
of the cork from the first bottle of
“Chateau Tooting - Furzedown
Blush” which was produced from
grapes growing in founding member
Richard Sharp’s neighbours back
garden. Since Richard and his team
have been working at a whirlwind
pace to share their passion for
wine produced locally and also
building a sense of community
around its creation.
For the future the Urban Wine
Company plans to expand and
connect with more projects,
gardens and neglected grapes
across the city. London Food Link
are working to help find more sites
for the project and have helped
them to successfully secure a
larger site for a vineyard at
Surrey Docks Farm.
If you would like to find out how
you can be involved with the
work of the Urban Wine company
as a grower, grape donator or
volunteer the please visit
www.urbanwineco.com

WIN YOUR OWN VINE!!!

We have a free urban wine company vine to give-
away to a lucky new member of London Food Link
That signs up for membership this quarter.
20/21
 Jolly
Jo
olly Good Foods
Foooods DIARY
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Showcasing the work of community garden and city farm projects across
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See p4 or visit www.lovebritishfood.co.uk for a list of events li n l@
that is lliedee
happening across London celebrating the best in British Food. o w a t: theje
kn
Telephone
T elep
e hone 0044 (0)1387 24 249333
49333 or
e-mail sales@juniperfinefoods.co.uk
sales@juniperfineffood
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Tel:
Teel: 0044(0)1387 249333, Fax:Fax: 0044(0)1387 249900 2 An urban green fair which includes an area dedicated to local food and food
E -mail: sales@juniperfinef
E-mail: foods.co
o
sales@juniperfinefoods.co.uk .uk growing. www.theurbangreenfair.org
20,000 copies
26th - Belsize Green Fair - Haverstock Hill
Beginning with a foraging course on Hampstead Heath and other local in circulation
C AT E R E R
food activities. www.transitionbelsize.org.uk
27th - Colne Valley Local Food Event
www.colnevalleypark.org.uk

OCTOBER 2009
,
8th - Organic Food Conference, Selling Organic: What s the Story? STOCKIST
- London South Bank University
www.organicconferences.co.uk FEATURE
10th - Apple Day Celebrations - Vestry House, Walthamstow
Mother Earth
www.elog.org.uk/apple.htm
5 Albion Parade, Alb
ion Road,
10th - Launch of the Camden Food strategy Stoke Newington, Lo
ndon N16 9LD
Events across the borough include a family day at Kentish Town City 282-284 St Pauls Ro
farm, and a Seed Swap at Somers town Community Cafe. ad,
Islington, London N1
rosie@sustainweb.org 2LH
101 Newington Road
,
Islington, London N1
4QY
NOVEMBER 2009
Mother Earth has been
10th - London Food Link Autumnal Network Do serving the local
community of North Lo
An inspiring evening celebrating the work of London Food Link and its ndon since 1990.
Built from a love of he
members (to find out more about London Food Link and the network althy and above all,
ethical and local foods,
then turn to page 21. Vanessa@sustainweb.org their three shops
in Stoke Newington an
d Islington stock
everything today’s con
7th - 8th - Introduction to Permaculture Course, Hornsey scious consumer
could desire from fresh
www.naturewise.org.uk organic produce,

BEST TRAITEUR
vegetarian foods, fair-tra
de items, bread
11th Nov - 4th Dec Osokool Gallery, Handmade Foods, Blackheath and take-aways. Mothe
r Earth also provide
An exhibition of food drawings from world famous illustrator purified water on tap an
d is a pick up point
Axel Schleffer. www.handmadefood.com/gallery for a local organic box
scheme supplied by
Growing Communities
in Hackney. Mother
TBC - Mudchute Kitchen Feast, Mudchute Farm, Isle of Dogs Earth flies the flag for
health foods and as
An evening celebrating food reared, grown, foraged and prepared on one of our most dedic
HELEN@HANDMADEFOOD.COM, TEL: 020 8297 9966 The Jellied Eel wish the
ated stockists, we at
MudchuteFarm. This evening will be held once a month. See the m every success!
website for dates www.mudchutekithcen.org. 22/23
Planet Organic, London’s leading organic
retailer is now trading on-line.
Great selection of groceries from raw chocolate to brown sushi rice
Speciality diet search facility and dedicated gluten free home page
Extensive organic beers, wine and spirits offer
Luxurious natural skincare brands
Wide range of health supplements
Recipes, tips and blogs from our organic experts

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