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vA motor control hum
Removing noise Optimum / Quantum machines with DC motors
(All information is supplied for information, without any responsibility for the
results of its use is accepted)
Introduction.
In this thread we will describe one of the ways that you can eliminate the treme
ndous electrical "noise" produced by DC motors, certain machine tools. This nois
e is caused by the absence of a filter at the output of the power board, which m
akes the engine will reach a pulsed power, with peaks of great value, which make
s the electric current through the motor windings to induce a pulsating flow in
the motor iron. Being built by this stacked plates, begin to vibrate, producing
sound waves in the audible spectrum.
The content of this text is aimed at machines with DC motors up to 500 watts. Fo
r example:
Millers Quantum BF16 and BF20 Optimum (motors up to 500 watts)
Optimum 180 * 300 Vario lathe.
But actually it is valid for any model from another manufacturer, provided that
the motor is DC, and much power not exceeding the limit indicated.
Beyond remove noise of the machine, the advantages of mounting a filter with an
inductor and a capacitor, are:
* It reduces harmonics and improves RMS current.
* Improves power factor.
* Limits the AC component superimposed on the continuous, improving DC moto
r commutation.
Internal electrical connection of machines.
The feed enters at around through the fuses, and passes through a switch with el
ectrical interlocking (so that if the power goes out, the auto-disconnect). Henc
e they are the network cables to the small plate. This is a control plate.
In the low voltage control plate (type 9V, 5V, etc.) for different uses, such as
feeding the system safety limit switches, or power the tachometer (if winch fit
ted) are obtained.
Since this control plate, in turn, leaving two network cables, to the power boar
d.
That is, the board reach 220V power from the control board.
The power board regulates the voltage that reaches it, and becomes continuous ad
justable pseudo-effective value, which is what we get to your departure. Hence t
wo wires leave toward the switch.
That pseudo-voltage reaching the switch can be reversed here, so that the motor
rotates in one direction or another.
Procedure to remove noise:
To eliminate the noise of these machines, it is necessary to mount an LC filter
between the plate and the switch that feeds the engine, so you have to buy a coi
l (L) and a capacitor (C) to appropriate values. Also some small mounting hardwa
re, tools, box, etc..
# header http://es.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?method=getPr
oduct&R=4576135
Or they (are what I used, they put two in series):
Mfr: PR2.5
http://www.polylux.com/familia/pr_inductancias_de_linea_monofasicas
There Polilux to call by phone to tell you a dealer in your city. You can also s
end them an email. Me too I responded to that method.
In Madrid the Dimel ordered in, but there are hundreds of distributors throughou
t Spain. (It took three weeks to get my hands on, because the manufacturer had n
o stock).
This small company also sells a valid coil. There you telephone them and see how
they order it.
Item No.: 002220RI0
http://www.tecnotrafo.es/RI-RT-R1.pdf
Plug connectors.
(For this, better go to a store electronic components and connectors for microph
ones questions, asking for three-way connectors, XLR type
Recessed in the box:
http://es.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?method=getProduct&R=0
405629
and this:
http://es.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?method=getProduct&R=0
405590 (is left)
for around:
You can embed a connector as above, or leave it to air.
If you leave the air, you will need:
A male and a female, type "aero" ie, that are in the air, without embedding.
Terminals for cables of this type (must be the size of the cables used in arrivi
ng at the plate):
http://es.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?method=browseSubRange
&Ne=4294954407&N=4294584945&productNum=6688980
Some points of these:
http://es.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?method=browseSubRange
&Ne=4294954407&N=4294612782&productNum=7187375
Heat-shrinkable tubing of different sizes, and red and black color (very cheap):
http://es.rs-online.com/web/search/searchBrowseAction.html?method=browseSubRange
&Ne=4294954407&N=4294547605&productNum=2088967
As I say, small is better for mounting buy them in a store, not online, because
they can advise you ....
Mounting the LC filter in the machine.
The way of working is:
Change original fuses, other extra-fast, 5 Amps. This will help protect the mach
ine if something goes wrong.
Turn the speed potentiometer to the minimum. In this way, we will work with low
As the diodes and thyristors are not worth that much, I would buy all five.
At present (2010), the Optimum / Quantum manufacturer assembles these components
:
Thyristor (2 Eur):
http://uk.farnell.com/littelfuse/s6025l/thyristor-25a-600v-to-220/dp/1456980
Diode (2,8 Eur):
http://uk.farnell.com/littelfuse/d6025l/diode-rectifier-600v-25a-to220ab/dp/1827
589
The one that almost certainly has not done anything, is the component that is in
the middle of them all. A diode-called "free circulation" which does not belong
to the rectifier bridge itself.
More possibilities:
If you search the datasheets of these power components you will see that with th
e same code, changing only one letter, diodes, thyristors and triacs are encapsu
lated. Thyristors and triacs in this series are complemented, in the sense that
such a triac thyristor can replace this range, no problems. The converse is not,
of course.
So if you do not find the thyristor, triac you can put that same family:
Format triac (two antiparallel thyristors)
http://es.farnell.com/jsp/search/productdetail.jsp?sku=1456976
I also wanted to tell you that if a thyristor due to overload burns usually also
burns a diode, since they work in series, ie pairs.
Therefore, it is also possible that a diode is bad, but not something mathematic
al. Be careful with that.
If it's any consolation, some time ago, in my tests, also burned a bridge of the
se, and since then I have thyristors and diodes Extra specifically purchased for
leave reserve.
Tip / Trick:
When you go to desolder components, Do not risk the board: Cut the legs first of
a sewing kit with scissors to remove the body of the components. So already the
re just desolder the pins, which are now alone, and you can grab it with tweezer
s.
Thus, the process is very fast unsoldered, which avoid heating the plate tracks,
and these become detached from the base bakelite (or fiber, or what it is made)
. Employs a tinker about 30 watts.
if a track comes off, the pineapple is good fat. You can paste, etc.. but the fu
dge begin to take shape .....
It is true that cutting the legs causes the component unusable, and that one can
be healthy, but you do not really worth it for those prices, carry you to risk
the board itself.
he required equipment consists of:
30W tinker.
Tin of good quality.
Film desoldering to remove the existing solder tin. It only costs a few euros, a
nd it is necessary not to botch.
tweezers to pull the pins on the board, when applying to melt tin tinker.
Repair process.
With the tape desoldering and tinker eliminates all possible tin solder. To put
it the end of the ribbon above the weld, and applies the tinner. When the heat t
in case, will be absorbed by the film (which is a grid of tin).
If done with patience, and giving time to tinker good both hot tape as tin, it w
ill absorb all the tin, and the pins will practically loose.
With the pin cut and the component body already retired, we hold the first leg w
ith tweezers and apply the tinker.
When the tin is left to melt, the pin is removed by pulling the clips.
well with them all.
You can now install the newly purchased component and solder with new tin.