Working Wardrobe Affordable Clothes That Work For You PDF

Working Wartlike
Affordable Clothes
HmtWbrkhrlbu!
How to more than triple your wardrobe with

two-color coordinated dressing
"Works on any
level of
budget and
sophistication,
Janet Willach
or at any level of
dressiness."
Ms.
magazine
Image
Profile
Affordable Clothes That Wbrk For You!
Working
Wardrobe
Janet Wallach
Illustrations
by
Qiristine Turner
^^
o
WWNER BOOKS
A Warner Communications Company
To my husband John
Warner Books Edition

Copyright
1981
by Acropolis Books
Ltd.
All rights reserved.
This Warner Books Edition is published by arrangement

with Acropolis Books Ltd., Colortone Building, 2400 17th
St., N.W., Washington, D.C. 20009.
Warner Books,
Inc.,
New York, N.Y.
666 Fifth Avenue
10103
N.Y. 10019.
^9 A Warner Communications Company

Printed in the United States of America
First
Warner Books
Printing:
September 1982
10 9 8 7 6 5 4
Artists:
Allyson Everngam and Barbara
T. Sites
Photos by David Neely, Photo Concepts

Illustrations
by Christine Turner
Library of Congress Cataloging in Publication Data
Wallach, Janet, 1942Working wardrobe.

Reprint. Originally published: Washington, D.C:
Acropolis Books, c. 1981.
Includes index.
I. Title.
1, Clothing and dress.
646'.34
82-7048
1982
TT507.W217
ISBN 0-446-38361-9
ISBN 0-446-38362-7
AACR2
(U.S.A.)
(Canada)
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Working Wardrobe
ACKNOWLEDGMENTS
JYly gratitude to the

enthusiasm contributed so
My
much
to the
appreciation and thanks to Kathleen
understanding, guidance, and good
Turner for
their artistic direction
many
making
people whose interest and
of this
book.
Hughes and Laurie Tag for their

to Robert Hickey and Chris
humor and
and perceptive
interpretation.
My
special thanks to
My
appreciation for the time and valuable contributions of: Lenore Benson,
Susan Samuels for her encouragement and support.
Joan Carl, Barbara Dickstein,
Mary DiGiacomo,
Millicent Fenwick,
Donna
Karan, Nancy Kissinger, Hanne Merriman, Nancy Reagan, Dot Roberts, Diane
Sawyer, Gail Serfaty, Linda Silverman, and Trisha Wilson.
My
love and gratitude to John Wallach for his belief and support.
CONTENTS
8
Foreword
Getting it Together:
The Capsule Concept
Is A Working Wardrobe?
The Capsule Concept
Putting The Pieces Together
Color Profile Quiz
Choosing Your Capsule
The Dress Option
What About A Coat?
The Total You
Building On The Capsule Concept
Real People: Kaaren Gray
Hanne Merriman
What
2L
The
26
27
29
37
41
42
45
50
52
54
55
58
60
Essential Accessories
68
69
Shoes
Handbags
Scarves
71
Belts
80
80
Jewelry
The
Basic Accessory
Real People:
Wardrobe
Mona Shaker
Dot Roberts
81
86
89
The Image of Success
93
What Your Clothing Says About You
94
98
106
107
Three Decades of Fashion

The Capsule Approach To Successful Dressing
Image Profile Quiz
Real People: Nancy Reagan
108
112
Maureen Kindel
The Evening Capsule

The Evening Look With Separates
The Dress-And-Jacket Look
Accessorizing Your Evening Capsule
117
,
Real People: Lenore Benson
Susan Samuels
The Travel Capsule

Think Before You Pack
Flexibility
Is
The Key
Designing Your
How To Pack
Own Travel Capsule
Real People: Trisha Wilson
Diane Sawyer
117
124
124
131
134
139
140
140
144
151
157
160
Shop Talk
Look Before You Buy
Making Your Selections
The Perfect Fit
The Best Time To Buy
Real People: Mary DiGiacomo
GailSerfaty
Shopping With A Plan

Budgeting A Capsule
163
164
1 70
173
74
175
176
178
179
1
Finding
Planning Your Capsule
187
Index
194
Your Individual Style
185
FOREWORD
W.
orking Wardrobe will help any
front of her closet
and says
"I
woman who stands in
haven't a thing to wear."
frustrating than a closet full of clothes, yet nothing that

else?
Whether
for
work or
for play, office time, travel time or
woman can save time and money if she's bought her

design. And that's what Working Wardrobe is all about.
It's
week
way
to
to organize
What can be more
works with anything
your clothing
to
make
it
work
clothes
for you,
week, year to year. The key to Working Wardrobe
Concept, a
way
to coordinate a
basis of color, fabric
number of
any time,
by plan and
day
is
to day,
the Capsule
separate clothing components on the
and shape. Working Wardrobe
faces the
problem of
how
make sense of your wardrobe, how to use it for work, and how to make it
work for you. Too many women buy clothing on impulse or out of sheer
frustration; they return home with too many pieces that don't work together.
Working Wardrobe teaches you how to make sense of your wardrobe and buy
to
Working Wardrobe
clothing that
fits
together like the interchangeable pieces of an interlock-
ing puzzle.
In order to
theory,
show you how
working wardrobe
each explanatory chapter
women who
are
successful
not
is
used in practice as well as in
followed by profiles of a number of
is
only in
their
careers
but
in
the
way
they put themselves together. Their creativity and initiative are evident in their
dress as well as in their
work. All of them see
their personal style. All of
them
relate the
way
their clothing as a reflection of
discusses
how
she makes her wardrobe
work
work
women. Each woman
they dress to the kind of
they do. All of them see themselves as distinctly feminine

for her.
Working Wardrobe goes beyond fad and fashion and shows you how
good return on your clothing investment.

and formulates
amounts
it
of time,
It
takes the idea of
into the Capsule Concept, a simple design that saves endless
money and
anxiety.
The Capsule Concept provides a
concise approach to dressing. With a working wardrobe
any
situation
to get a
wardrobe building
clear,
you can be ready
and be assured you're dressed for the occasion!
for
Black/Red Working Capsule

12 Pieces of clothing in 2 colors = 48 different looks
Colors
Black
A.
Jacket
B.
Jacket
Red
Accents
Will
work with
All skirts
and dress
Skirt
D.
Skirt
E.
Skirt
F.
Blouse
Small geometric
print. Dirndl,
Red/yellow/black
Small geometric
print shirt
a
R
Red/yellow/black
Blouse
White bow neck
Blouse
L_
Blouse
l_
Sweater
Detachable
bow
Sweater
Dress
Belted trenchcoat
with button-out
Coat
L. Dress
Skirt Small geometric

print dirndl
Red/Black/Yellow
Blouse
Small geometric
Jacket
B.
^
Red/Black/Yellow
blazer
Black/White
_*
wool
Red
Wool
sleeve
shirtdress
crepe cardigan
Black
Skirt
dirndl
Black/White
Crepe
Long
Skirt
Tweed
print shirt
Jacket
Dress
Tweed
shirt
detachable
Yellow
with
bow
D.
Wool
crepe pleated
Black
Blouse
Crepe
White
bow
neck
Black /Red Working Capsule

Your Capsule
will give
you enough looks
to
change your
outfit
everyday for more than 2 months.
MONDAY
TUESDAY
WEDNESDAY
THURSDAY
A.
E.
F.
E.
F.
D.
J.
K.
Capsule Combinations
A
Capsule is limited to two principle colors, each of which can stand on

Here are some suggestions of color combinations that you might use.
own
or mix with the other.
Navy /Wine
Blue
Navy /Yellow
Blue Gray/Yellow
Gray/Wine
Blue Gray/RoyaJ Blue
Black/Purple
Navy /Red
Purple Beige
its
Blue
Gray/Red
Blue Gray/Pink
Greige/ Ivory
Greige/Rust
Navy/Plu
Black /Beige
Purple /Red
Navy /Pink
Steel
Gray /Eggplant
Steel
Gray/Khaki
Aqua Peach
m
Olive Beige
Olive Purple
Aqua Yellow
Burgundy /Winter White
Gray/Brown Working Capsule

12 Pieces of clothing in 2 colors
Brown
Gray
A.
Jacket
B.
Jacket
= 48
different looks
Accents
Will
work with
All skirts
and dress
All skirts
and dress
All skirts
and dress
Jacket
All lackets. blouses,
D.
and sweaters
Gray
Skirt
All lackets, blouses,
Paisley print
E.
and sweaters Paisley
Dirndl skirl
Skirt
Gray brown
to
make
dress
All jackets, blousi
Tweed, Plealed
Skirt
Paisley print.
shirt
Detachable
bow
Blouse
Blouse
L_
Blouse
l_
Blouse
IC
Sweater
Dress
Mhfik
J.
K.
Blouse
Coat
L. Dress
Sweate
-^
Jacket
Tweed
>t
Jacket
knit
Tweed knit cardigan

Gray /Brown
cardigan
Gray/Brown
Skirt Challis paisley
print dirndl
Gray/Brown
Skirt
F.
Blouse Challis paisley

print shirt with
detachable
Blouse
bow
Gray /Brown
Tweed knit pleated

Gray/Brown
Silk shirt
J.
Gold
Blouse
Silk blouse
I.
with
Sweater
Cardigan
Rust
bow
Beige
Dress
L.
Silk shirt dress
Brown
Navy /Wine Working Capsule

= 72
different looks
A.
Jacket
Mohair cardigan
Wine
A.
Pants
F.
Gabardine trousers
Navy
D.
Blouse
Skirt
Silk crepe dirndl
Skirt
Silk crepe tattersall
print dirndl
Navy/Wine
Blouse
Silk crepe tattersall
Silk shirt
Navy
Jacket
Mohair cardigan
Wine
print shirt
Navy /Wine
Wine
G.
K.
Jacket
Corduroy cardigan
Navy
Blouse
Silk crepe shirt
Skirt
Wine
Navy
Sweater
Cardigan
Sweater
Pullover
Ivory
Navy
Corduroy dirndl
Ivory /Tan Working Capsule

= 49
different looks
Jacket
Tweed
blazer
Forest
Skirt
D.
"
Tweed
Forest
Blouse
Silk
bow
Forest
Jacket
Ginger
Silk
Ginger
Wool
Jacket
Suede cardigan
Ginger
blazer
Forest
Skirt
Silk Paisley print
Pants
paisley print
silk pleated
plea
Forest /Ginger
Blouse
neck
Jacket
Tweed
Hopsack blazer
trousers
pleated
Forest /Ginger
Forest
Silk
Silk paisley print
Ivory
Forest/Ginger
Blouse
Blouse
J.
Forest Green/Ginger
Ginger
A.
Jacket
B.
Jacket
c.
Jacket
D.
Skirt
E.
Skirt
F.
Skirt
G.
Pants
H.
Blouse
I.
Blouse
J.
Blouse
K.
Blouse
Sweater
=64
Working Capsule
different looks
Will
work with
All skirts
and pants
Alt skirts
and pants
Will makesuil with
ginger skirt
All skirts
and pants
All tops
Will
suit
make
with tweed
All tops
Will
make
dress with paisley

shirt
Raw
Coat
silk shirt
All skirts
and pants
All skirts
and
|^_
gj Q
J. Bio.
**
All skirts
and pants
All skirts
and pants
LJ V
G.
Panls
Chapter
GETTING IT
TOGETHER:
The Capsule Concept
1-^very time you look
in
and find nothing, you know your wardrobe

an
take
outfit,
it
home, and
something's not working.

skirts that
office
If
find
closet for
something
to
wear
working. Every time you buy
you haven't
the right shoes or handbag,
you have
jackets that
work with only one
skirt,
only look right with one top, clothes that only seem to work for the
and never look
for you.
If
your
isn't
you stand
right going out to dinner,
in front of a
packed
your wardrobe
closet every
isn't
morning and
working
can't figure
out what to wear, you don't have a working wardrobe.
have spent almost twenty years
Avenue
in the
fashion industry,
first
on Seventh
as a designer of sportswear, then as a fashion coordinator,
and most
recently as Fashion Merchandising Director of Garfinckel's a major Washington,
D.C. store with an international reputation
Whether
career
is
in a store
the presentation of clothing
tion, the pieces are
for
quality
or in a showroom, one technique
by groups. When
and good
taste.
learned early in
my
a designer styles a collec-
coordinated by color and fabric, so that they work together.
Working Wardrobe
27
They might include

to retailers,
it
is
shown
in the
made.
all
it
may
What
To buy
if
that
When
is
presented
in these
the merchandise arrives in the
all
of the pieces in a group
buy
a skirt
group were her spring wardrobe? What
Stores offer
many ways
to help their
and
shirt,
and perhaps a
would seem outrageous. Or would
wardrobe could work together? Wouldn't
in her
these separates,
the merchandise
be displayed on a chrome fixture that allows the customer to see
of the possibilities. She, in turn, might
jacket.
From
shirts.
When
same way. Professional buyers think
terms as well, often buying a whole group.

store,
and
several skirts, jackets
several possible combinations can be
if,
that
it?
in fact, all of the pieces
make
her
life
simpler?
customers visualize the new looks
fashion with ads, promotions, trunk shows, personal appearances
by
in
designers,
and, of course, fashion shows. While big fashion shows cost a fortune to do,
more and more women have
less
productions of fantasy clothes.
and
less
time to spend looking at outrageous
What customers do want
is
to be educated; they
how to get the most clothing for the least amount of money. They
want to know how to put these clothes together in ways that make sense for the
office as well as for after-office hours. They want to know how to get maximum mileage out of their wardrobes, what to buy, how to accessorize, and
how to update last year's looks.
want
to learn
WHAT
IS
A WORKING WARDROBE?
Several years ago

the
you.
It
show seminar based on the concept of

that's right for work and works for
your many points of view. After all, you may be an
introduced a fashion
Working Wardrobe,
should adapt to
that
is,
wardrobe
executive, in addition to being a mother, a corporate wife, a fund raiser, an

artist,
a theater goer
these jobs.
and a
At the same
traveler.
time,
if
You need
you're doing
all
on time. While your mother may have thought
the kind of clothes that will

of this,
it
do
you are probably short
entertaining to go shopping,
Getting
28
Together
it
delight, you
You need them, you buy
them, and that's that. The question is, with a limited amount of time and
money to spend on clothing, how do you shop fast, save money and always
and meeting "the
girls" at a
department store was an afternoon's
simply don't have the extra hours to devote to clothes.
look good? The answer
may
robe
take
lies in
some time
the
working wardrobe. Organizing your wardonce the
in the beginning, but
initial
plans are
time.
They earn more
set, it's
simple to put the project in motion.

Fifty percent of all adult
money than women

and
less as
filler
American women work
in
own. They spend
their jobs
not actually sitting at their desks.
world, they want everyone to
far longer than forty
know
in rising
developing a successful business or profes-
sion of their
way
as a career
between school and marriage. They are interested
within the corporate structure or
if
full
They approach work more
ever have before.
hours a week working at
When
they're out there in the
working women, making
they're
their
own
in life.
The Working Wardrobe

applies to
any
is
taste level
geared to these
women,
to you.
It is
a concept that
and any purse. Whether you wear clothes by Anne
Klein or Evan Picone, high-styled European fashions or basic ail-American
Preppy, your wardrobe should
may
prefer Saks, or
favorite
book
little
that
work
for you.
on the other hand a
dressmaker
may
be your
You might shop
skirt here, a
style. It just
you rethink your whole approach
whatever you buy, your wardrobe should
may
at Sears
be after reading
to shopping. But
reflect a
or you
blouse there, and a

this
however and
look of quality.
Faced with inflation and an ever shrinking dollar, the best clothing buys are
those that last the longest. This
in fashion,
pean
but
it
makes
women who wear
may
not always tally with what's the
a wise investment.
classic clothing.
Think
of
They pay
all
latest
those elegant Euro-
little
attention to fads
Working Wardrobe
29
and hemlines, and

always
strikes
pret-a-porter.
all
over the world,
on the
street or in a fine restaurant.
strolls
down
Faubourg
the
groomed and dressed
in a
St.
She
is
at ease
notice the well-dressed French
And what
does
Honore or dines
simple
of her clothes are unimportant.
loger to get the latest fashion message
all
from the newest French designers. Then
quality.
outfits a year. This contrast
from
journalists
new
only one or two
collect
me when I'm in Paris seeing the twice-yearly shows for the

There am racing around town with thousands of buyers and
silk dress
at
this
woman
look
Maxim's? She
woman
who
like
very well
is
or well-cut suit. Her age and the age
What comes
across
is
a feeling of elegance, of
with herself and comfortable with her clothes. She
may
be amused by the designers, but she knows what's right for her and she stays
with
it.
As American women
learn to collect their clothes, to
buy
quantity, to look for the kinds of fashions that will remain in
we
long time,
long practiced
too are more at ease with ourselves.

this idea,
always expecting
we
are forced
time,
we
to
As
to last for years.
our
suit
the price of
to take this
some
and not
taste for a
they could afford, and
women's
same approach.
style of living as well as to
are fortunate to have
good
Many American men have
always buying the best blue
more and more
accommodation
same
it
quality
clothing climbs,
It
is
the easiest
our pocketbooks. At the
of the best designers in the world,
plus the ability to produce the greatest fashion at the lowest price. There
tremendous selection
designers.
point.
in fabric, color,
and
There are great looking clothes
A good
working wardrobe
is
styling offered
at
every price point.
available to
is
by young American
anyone who
And
that's
my
cares.
THE CAPSULE CONCEPT

As in any other area, those who are successful often have the same formula.
The secret of many well dressed women is the Capsule Concept. Easy to digest,
clear
and concise,
it
works day and
night.
What
is
the Capsule Concept?
It is
Getting
30
It
Together
simply the principle of a small group of clothing, coordinated in color, fabric
and shape, with

about
all
earlier, the
interchangeable parts. Like the coordinated groups
Capsule
is
an extended
by you and for you. The Capsule can

twenty pieces. The purpose of
it is
set of
consist of as
you
to give
The Capsule can be worked around
require.
mix and match
as
as five or as
little
much
spoke
pieces, created
flexibility as
many
as
your needs
a daytime wardrobe, an evening
wardrobe, a work to dinner theme, a work -play idea, a travel package, or
whatever your needs

requirements.
pieces that
The
may
be.
make your
What makes up
picture puzzle a perfect
a Capsule? Everything
and
jackets, blouses, sweaters,
colors, each of
not just one

first
dresses.
which can stand on
the individual pieces
The
skirt,
designed by you to
It is
basic structure of the Capsule
must
all
its
work
It
may be
some
that
your plan
you want
work
months ago I was
retiring
to
into
you need including
skirts,
Capsule
two
is
new
limited to
pants,
principal
The shapes
of
worn with
this
approach
your needs.
puzzle out, but
this in several
more than
likely,
it
It
requires
sure pays in
shopping sessions
you already own
a guest lecturer to a
group of
women whose husbands
from the military and entering the business world. Both the
also included a session

interests,
interview,
is
to figure out
work
in a course in career strategy.
incorporated interview techniques, psychological
had two
and your
your Capsule.
husbands and wives were enrolled
It
life
fit.
or mix with the other.
you're starting out fresh. But
pieces that will
Several
were
if
your
but you choose the
together so that a jacket can be
time and patience in the beginning to

the end.
own
fit
set,
but with two or three skirts and perhaps with a dress as well.
step in developing
particularly
is
tests
on fashion, given separately
one as wives
who
The course
and motivational
to each sex.
might accompany
their
ideas.
The women
husbands on an
and the second as job hunters themselves faced with the prospect
position or even the start of a
wardrobe which could
suit either role.
new
career.
We
of
developed a Capsule
Working Wardrobe
The
31
clothing needs were broken
down
into three areas: the formal first
and
second interview, the cocktail /dinner situation, and the casual meetings which
Many
might take place.
would happen
of these interviews
around the country, so that a movable fashion
feast
was
in different cities
required.
It
couldn't
What
be too cumbersome, or too expensive, keeping military salaries in mind.
was needed were two
suits
with matching jackets and skirts (one for the
interview and one for the second), a dress that could be

well as for dinner,
and one casual
worn during
the
first
day as
could be used for anything from
outfit that
touring a factory to house hunting. This Capsule allowed the
women
great
they never had to wear the same outfit twice in the course of
flexibility so that
an interview period.
Before deciding on any particular items for the Capsule,
color scheme.
the
first
Dark
solid colors such as black,
we had
to
choose a
navy or gray were suggested
for
interview suit. Lighter colors such as wine, taupe or camel, or a subtle
pattern in a tweed or herringbone, could be introduced for the second inter-
view.
By using
a solid navy
with both
ones.
a solid color that coordinated with the pattern, as for example,
first,
skirts.
and a navy /wine check second, both jackets could be worn
This gave the wearer two matching suits as well as two mixed
The matching
suits
were perfect for the interviews, while the mixed looks
were great for any casual outings. To round out the Capsule, we chose a
shirtdress in
wine that would look good with either jacket over
for the office covered up,
and great without
it. It
was
silk
perfect
the jacket after five.
the Capsule the women were set for a whole round of interviews, both on
own or with their husbands. Many came back giving glowing testimonials
of how well their Capsule had worked. They were pleased not only with the
flexibility of the Capsule, but many felt that it was their assurance in their
With
their
clothing that
had helped them
get their jobs.
They
also
knew
they could use this
Capsule as the basis of their on-the-job wardrobe once they started to work.
32
Getting
Many
gets,
other
women
It
Together
helped have had similar kinds of problems; small bud-
I've
not a lot of time for shopping, and a need for clothes that are attractive
and multifunctional. By analyzing
their
needs and their wardrobes,
we were
able to develop personalized Capsules.
THE PROBLEM
Roz A. had been
a secretary for
two years and wanted
She realized that the look she projected was not
how
but she wasn't sure just
robe was composed of bits and pieces
left
wanted a quality look. Her ward-
over from college augmented by her
roommate's clothes which she often borrowed.
Roz explained. "But
things, like her slim skirts
Now
type in college.
career.
she wanted to dress. Although her budget and
salary didn't warrant expensive clothes, she
look,"
advance her
to
right for the executive suite,
am
finding that
and oxford
I'd like to
"I
don't really have
like
shirts. It's crisp
my own
my
roommate's tailored
and
fresh.
was
a hippie
have a cleaner look."
THE SOLUTION
What Roz
did have were
the other, a wine pleated
gan sweater, a
pieces,
we
gift
trousers to
work with
also
the blazer.
consist of five blouses,
oxford pink
had a navy shaker
First,
a suit with the gray skirt.
navy and gray and
flannel,
and
stitch cardi-
we found
Then we added a tweed
an ivory
silk
a gray flannel
We also found a pair of gray
a matching tweed skirt.
shirt, a striped shirt in
The
blazer in wine with

rest of
her Capsule
bow blouse, an oxford blue shirt, an
white/navy/wine and a paisley print
in
new additions to her Capsule, which she bought over a period

two months, came to $310. The twelve pieces gave her 60 different looks.
wine/gray. The
of
one a slim charcoal gray
from her brother, which she loved. Working around these
would make
would
skirts,
wool crepe. She
created a Capsule of gray and wine.
blazer that
flecks of
two good
Gray /Wine Capsule

Gray
A.
Jacket
B.
Jacket
Will
work with
All skirls
Will
and pants
make
tweed
suit
with
skirt
Skirt
All rackets, blouses
D.
Skirt
E.
Skirt
All jackets, blouses
Pants
Blouse
H.
Blouse
I.
Blouse
J.
Blouse
K.
Blouse
Sweater
Paisley shirt.
Accessories
Shoes
Wine/gray
34
Getting
To
Roz chose pumps
accessorize her Capsule,
shoulder bag, and three scarves, one a wine
silk
in
this
Together
gray and wine, a wine
oblong, one a yellow oblong,
and one a paisley square which could be made into a

pocket handkerchief. With
It
bow
tie,
an ascot or a
Capsule, Roz had a working wardrobe that was
crisply tailored to her needs.
THE PROBLEM
had been working
Elaine G.
and her husband
all
many years, but with her career, her children

much of her time, she hadn't really concentrated
for
claiming
on her own appearance. She bought her clothes on impulse, often while shop-
home
ping for her children, and what she brought
anything
for
else she
promotion several times, and
at herself.
"My wardrobe
no relationship
money
to
usually didn't
owned. Although she did her work
is
realized that she
well, she
had better take a good look
simply an accumulation of isolated items that have
to each other," she complained. "I don't
go out and buy
work with
was passed over
all
new
clothes, but
have the time or the
don't feel right in
what
have."
THE SOLUTION
Elaine did have quite a lot of things, but she wasn't getting mileage out of her
clothes.
She had a very well made camel wool
in charcoal gray.
owned were
She also had a
light
suit,
gray tweed
and another
Among
skirt.
attractive suit
the blouses she
a camel and gray small floral print tunic, a white crepe blouse
which her daughter had borrowed and never returned, and an aqua
Some of the
we rejected,
in
other items she had were poorly
made and
in
shoddy
silk blouse.
fabrics.
These
but decided to keep the ones mentioned above, creating a Capsule
camel and gray.
When
with either of the gray
asked Elaine
skirts,
she
was
if
she had ever
worn her camel
jacket
surprised and answered no. She
never thought to separate the parts of her
suits.
Since they were
made by
had
the
Camel/Gray Capsule
Camel
A.
Jacket
B.
Jacket
Gray
Will
work with
All skirls
Will
and
make
dr(
suil
Skirt
D.
Skirt
Skirt
Blouse
G.
Blouse
H.
Blouse
Blouse
J.
Blouse
K.
Sweater
Dress
Accessories
Shoes
All blouses
and
dr<
Getting
36
same manufacturer,
in similar fabrics, they
Elaine suddenly discovered she had
worked very
many more
It
Together
well together,
and
looks available than she had
ever realized. She also tried tucking in her tunic blouse to wear with her skirts,
giving a
much
neater look. Again, this
was something she had never
tried
back her ivory blouse from her daughter was not as difficult
as she had thought, and it gave her a versatile top. She did need some more
before. Claiming
blouses, so
we added
a beige crepe shirt, a striped shirt in white/camel/gray,
and used her aqua crepe blouse. For accents, we added a rust cardigan sweater
and one dress, a camel wool shirt dress. Taking one full Saturday for herself,
Elaine enjoyed completing her new Capsule. For just $230 she built a wardrobe
of forty-nine different outfits.
She already had tan leather pumps, and we added a pair of tan suede pumps.
Instead of her beat-up oversized black shoulder bag, we brought in a tan clutch
purse and a tan attache case,
she used to carry papers.
"and
work
no longer have
for
me."
much more
"I finally feel
to struggle with
attractive than the manilla envelopes
comfortable in
my clothes,"
what goes with what.
All of
Elaine said,
my
clothes
Working Wardrobe
37
PUTTING THE PIECES TOGETHER

Once you
are working, of course,
Assuming
that
by many
you spend most
of the
of
you need
your time
in
same people every day. You
good five-day working wardrobe.

an
office,
look each day for them as well as for yourself. For
working wardrobe Capsule
skirts
we'll
and blouses, and

be creating four
(It
be surrounded
two jackets,
may be
we'll discuss that later on.)
suits, three
will
this flexibility, the
consists of twelve pieces
four blouses, two sweaters, and one dress.
you
probably want to change your
will
that
you
minimum
three skirts,
prefer dresses to
Working with
the separates,
dress-and-jacket looks, and several skirt-and-
sweater combinations. Adding in skirts and blouses plus the dress on

there are
more than enough looks here
months without repeating
the
at least forty different outfits.
independent merit so that
same
The important point
can stand on
it
and shapes must work together
you
will
its
The
in the best clothing
you can
afford.
and the
pay
Using natural
will all
off.
is
own. Of course,
is
why
it is
such as
wools, will not only reflect your investment dollars in the
will
make
the colors, fabrics
one Capsule
is all
important to invest
quality of the fabrics, the

fibers,
own,
must have
that each item
for a cohesive Capsule. But
need for your working wardrobe. That
fit
These twelve pieces
outfit twice!
its
you through two working
to take
silks
way
workmanship
and lightweight
they look; they
can be worn throughout the year, no matter what the season.

Deciding on a color scheme
favorite neutral,
whether
it
is
the
is
black,
first
step in Capsule dressing.
Choose your
brown, navy, wine, gray or
beige. This
make it easy later on when you choose your accessories and your coat.
While some Capsules can be formed around neutrals, others can combine
will
bright colors or neutrals with brights.
One young woman wanted
that could look very conservative at times, but also
fun with color.
wardrobe
would allow her
to
have
38
Getting
It
Together
THE PROBLEM
When Nancy
B.
graduated from the University of Virginia, she got a job with a
small publishing
was spent
and
company
an executive
as
at her desk, she did
publicists.
assistant.
Although most
have opportunities to meet with
She found that the clothes she had worn
place in this business environment. "Clothing at school
also
found that she wanted
change her
to
masculine clothes in college. But

Besides,
hiding
in college
my
boyfriend says
own
now I want
style. "I
were out of
was very low key," she
wore pants and sweaters." Not only did she need
said. "I
of her time
writers, editors
different clothes, she
wore very baggy, almost
to look softer
and more feminine.
have a good figure and he complains that I'm
it."
THE SOLUTION
In going through
Nancy's college wardrobe, several items stood out. She had a
heather tweed suit in a gray /mauve combination that she had used for special
occasions in school, and which could
indicated that
in
now become
had a purple Shetland sweater and a mauve
also
mauve was
silk
a staple in her closet. She
blouse that she loved. She
her favorite color and she wished she had
more
things
it.
We put aside
sule
the
baggy corduroys and faded
around gray and mauve.
skirt,
both
in
and decided
mauve, which would give her another
the heather jacket with the

skirt.
jeans,
Then we added
to build a
Cap-
We found a mohair jacket and pleated wool crepe
mauve
skirt
suit.
She could also wear
and the mauve jacket with
a plaid skirt in shades of gray
the heather
and mauve, and a pair of
gray pleated trousers, both of which would work with the two jackets. In addition to her
blue
mauve
shirt,
we added an
shirt, all in soft fabrics.
them. The
last
item she
felt
ivory
shirt, a
pale gray shirt and a light
Her purple sweater could be worn over any of
she needed was a dress, and this time
we
chose a
Gray /Mauve Capsule

Gray
Mauve
Will
work with
All skirts
A.
Jacket
B.
Jacket
c.
Skirt
D.
Skirt
E.
Skirt
F.
Pants
Will
and dress
make
tweed
suit
with
skirt
Plaid full
Crav Mauve
Blouse
H.
Blouse
I.
Blouse
J-
Blouse
K.
Sweater
Dress
All skirts
Accessories
Shoes
and pan
Getting
40
It
Together
mauve wool jersey dress with a jewel neck, long sleeves, a narrow waist and
full skirt to show off her figure, but covered up enough to wear to work with or
without either of the two jackets she had. Nancy loved looking for bargains
and bought her clothes on
To give
sale
and
her Capsule a polished look,
at discount stores for $225.
we
rejected the clogs she
had been wearing
and chose two pairs of pumps, one in wine and one

wine envelope handbag completed the picture.
for so long,
Discovering your best Capsule colors can be a
you've always worn gray, but
this is the
fair skin light
against black?
up against pale
Does red make you
A neat
may
be that
It
time to find the "real" you.
strong in black, authoritative in gray, or do
your
new awakening.
in gray.
you
pastels or
feel
feel
is
more
Do you feel
sincere in blue?
the contrast
daring or do you
Does
more dramatic
feel
dominant
purple? Take the following quiz to find out your true color preferences.
in
Color Profile
1.
Arrange the clothes
in
Include
pants,
Which
2.
Now
3.
your closet by color only.

jackets,
and
dresses.
you don't wear very

dominant in the remainder
eliminate the clothes
What
often.
of
skirts,
all
colors appear most often?
colors are
your wardrobe?
What
color do you associate with each of the

following adjectives?
Masculine,
Feminine
Dowdy
Sophisticated
Sad
Sincere
Cheerful
Boring
Conservative
Aggressive
4.
5.
If
Now circle those adjectives you would like to have

applied to you.
you had to wear the same outfit

what color would it be?
for three days in
a row,
If
you were
color outfit
invited to lunch with your boss,
what
would you choose7
Think of outfits you have worn that have brought

you many compliments. What colors are they?
If
7.
you could buy one
8.
9.
outfit that
you have seen rewhat color
cently in a store or in a magazine,
would
Think
mire.
it
of
be?
someone whose style of dressing you adcolors do they usually wear?
What
Have you
recently tried
but were afraid to buy
What
on something, loved
it?
What
color do you feel best in?
color
was
it?
it,
Getting
42
It
Together
CHOOSING YOUR CAPSULE

Every
woman who works
an
in
meets with
office or
clients or other
people in
business situations needs one suit in a dark solid color. In situations such as
conferences, presentations, reviews, or job interviews, a dark suit
man
in a similar situation
suit.
A woman
must look as
basic colors are black,
is
in order.
wouldn't think twice: he'd pull out his good navy

sincere
and authoritative as her male
brown, navy, wine, gray or
choose black. (Our second color
will
peers.
The
beige. In this case we'll
be red which will be introduced later on.)
To start, you'll need one black jacket and one black skirt. Though together they
make a total suit, they may be bought as separates from a sportswear department, (in which case make sure the blacks match) or they may be purchased as
a unit from a suit or dress department.
The second
jacket
and
skirt
may
be of a
lighter color or in a subtle pattern
such
as a tweed, herringbone, or houndstooth. In this case, a salt-and-pepper tweed
would be
skirt
good companion
to the black suit. Select a
components. In making your

the
tweed
skirt,
and
selection,
that the
be sure that the black jacket works with
tweed jacket goes well with the black
best fabrics to choose are wool, silk, cotton

fibers
which have the look and
The shapes
of the jackets
ment both
skirts.
you choose
may
You may
you
feel there is
and
The
be the same or different, so long as they comple-
feel
you have
greater diversity in your Capsule
to the hip.
One may
one particular shape that
in a longer look.
if
be a traditional
One may be a short jacket, stopping at the

Of course, they may both be the same style
suits
your figure
prefer jackets that stop at the waistline; taller
more comfortable
skirt.
linen. All of these are natural
jackets that have different silhouettes.
waist, the other long
women may
and
feel of quality.
blazer, the other a cardigan shape.
if
tweed jacket and a tweed
(matching, of course), again choosing either sportswear or actual suit
best. Shorter
women may
feel
Working Wardrobe
The same
and
43
one
slim, the other pleated.
The
a front-button dirndl.
texture.
wool
ground. Teaming
If
on you.
don't
buy
it
dressed
it
thing to
remember
if
women
that
is
a naive salesperson
whatever you wear,
in the
On
you
tells
and
six feet tall;
doesn't matter whether
wardrobes year
the latest thing). Fashion
if
something looks
world don't follow every fashion
terrific
Wear it! The best
fad, but build
on
their
after year.
and now we need the blouses. At
skirts,
one blouse should be white or off-white.
need
this
kind of
shirt
with your dark
Just like the
whether tailored or
soft, for the
look you
like.)
be
in
will
first
bow
You may
top in a different silhouette from the
you might
like a
blouse should be in a
neck or stock
light
As
for
to
match the
tie.
Your
shade such as
to the style,
if
skirt. If
you've chosen a
your second blouse or vice versa.
third blouse could be another solid color, or as in this case,
up the foulard pattern
(I'll
style,
decide to pick another white or cream
first.
bow
appearance.
depend on your
another solid color, preferably a
beige, gray, pale blue, or pink.
first,
it
Your
crepe fabric, long sleeved, with a notched collar,
may
businessman, you'll
suit for a crisp, efficient
use the terms shirt and blouse interchangeably, as
The
must look
it
are five feet three, you'll
the latest look in Vogue.
least
your
it's
you
if
the other hand,
it's
O.K., we've selected the jackets and
shirt for
to
black
looks great on a high-fashion model, but drowns you out,
If it
(even
second blouse
set against a
with a blouse of the same fabric would give a
trying to imitate them.
silly
on you,
our second color, red,
pants are your style, you might even substitute trousers
magazine models are about

look
and
softer in look
would add another dimension
skirts.
The most important

right
will also bring in
this print skirt
dress look as well.
one of the
your capsule can be
third skirt in
challis in a foulard pattern
your wardrobe. This
for
They may both be straight

One skirt may be a side wrap, the other
principle applies to the shape of the skirts.
slim, or
you choose
you would pick
the latter,
it
must work
Getting
44
with your tweeds as well as with your
The
solids.
can look
right foulard
with a tweed; the wrong one can be a disaster. This
may
be a
little
the trained eye of a professional salesperson can help a great deal.
blouse can be a soft shirt style and introduce an accent color
It
Together
terrific
tricky,
The
as, for
and
fourth
example,
chrome yellow.
Two
sweaters are the next pieces to acquire.
in a solid color.
that
It
The
first style
should be a cardigan
could be black, gray, brick, red, royal blue, purple
works with your
and your blouses. The choice
skirts
In this case, a red sweater
would work with
all
the skirts
and
any color
yours to make.
is
pull together the
whole capsule. The second sweater should be a pullover, preferably a V neck or

jewel neck that can be worn alone or over a blouse. The color and shape of this
sweater should
as
on
its
own.
work
well under your cardigan
and under your
jackets as well
A black pullover can be worn with the black skirt to make a one-
piece dress look.
One
last
piece will complete the picture,
and
that
is
a dress. This should be a
tailored style, long sleeved with a slim skirt. This very functional dress
have a
shirt collar, jewel neck, turtle
wool, and in a neutral color that
tweed
jacket,
will
neck or high V.
that
you
should be
and your cardigan. You could choose cream,
feel
comfortable
your Capsule. This dress
in the color
will
may
in a silk
or
look good under your black jacket, your
but for this Capsule we'll use red. Again, the

is
It
red, gray, or black,
most important thing
you choose, and
be perfect at the
that
it
office, especially
with a jacket for business meetings. With the right accessories,
it
to
remember
works with
when worn
will
be great
for drinks, dinner, or the theater.
Of
course,
your
suits
give
accessories, a suit will take
you
you
the
easily
same
flexibility.
from morning
By simply changing
to night.
Working Wardrobe
45
THE DRESS OPTION

What
if
you
prefer dresses to sportswear?
you? Absolutely. The key here

should consist of seven pieces
are in a conference
Is
the Capsule
Concept
a dress-and-jacket look.
feasible for
simple Capsule-
five dresses and two jackets. Once again,
room, eye
to eye with
your peers or superiors,
broad shouldered as they. This
to look as
It
is
doesn't really matter whether
you
is
you'll
fairly tailored
tailored style to
and
many
most
dresses are the
Once
and have long sleeves

looks than
it
is
if
you
want
the function of the jackets.
are wearing a blouse
and
skirt or a dress
beneath the jacket. But the kind of dress you're wearing does matter.
be
if
possible.
one with
It's
It
should
easier to adapt a simple
ruffles
and
flourishes. Shirt-
flexible.
again, a two-color
scheme
is
important. This time we'll
work with navy
beige. Again, the fabrics will be natural fibers or blends of silk, wool, linen,
and cotton.
The
first
or beige.
dress
must have a navy
Combining
this dress
colors match) will give
ensemble
jacket outfits,
select
you an
like this in a dress
skirt,
while the bodice could be navy, white,
with your navy jacket (and again, be sure the

excellent suit look.
department.
Many
which saves you the problems
You may be
able to find an
manufacturers make dress and
of matching.
The second
dress
However, a simple high round or bow neckline would work well

change of pace, for your third dress you might
tie print,
like a small pattern
beige choice
neck.
is
a silk shirtdress, the second might be a
The
solid rust or
fifth dress
copper color.
might be
in
too.
a plaid or a check that combines the basic Capsule colors.
dress could be in another shade of beige, perhaps in another style.
bow
you
could be beige, and again, a shirtdress would be an excellent choice.
As
perhaps a
The fourth
If
wool crepe with
your
first
a jewel or
another pattern or perhaps introduce a
Getting
46
You
will
over
all
need two jackets, one
of the dresses, giving
with the blue
in
you
navy and one
in beige.
Together
Your jackets will work
suited looks as well as contrasting outfits.
outfit, the beige jacket
should match the beige
not a pure match, the colors should blend. The jacket shapes
different,
It
blazers or cardigans, since both styles
dresses. Naturally, the dresses will be fine
on
their
work
skirt. If
may
As
they are
be similar or
well with tailored
own, and need not be worn
with a jacket to look complete.
One woman came
to
me
anxiously seeking help for a
new wardrobe. She knew
she preferred wearing dresses but wasn't sure she could get enough looks from
them.
Navy /Beige
5 dresses
+2
jackets
Navy
Beige
=15
Dress Capsule
different looks
Will
work with
Both jackets and
Dress
Both jackets and
II
C
a
Dress
Both jackets and
Dress
two tone Beige
Dress
top/Navy
Both jackets and
skirt
Both jackets and
Dress
Jacket
G.
Jacket
Coat
Getting
48
It
Together
THE PROBLEM
Sarah
S.
had stayed home
to raise four children, but
when
the youngest entered
high school, Sarah decided to get a job. With her interest in
art,
and a college
museum.
work was terribly fashion conscious, Sarah soon found
that her job demanded she be at openings and receptions as well as at luncheons
with the press. The casual clothes which had served her well would no longer
do the job, and the cocktail clothes she owned were too dressy to go to work.
What she needed were clothes that would take her from the storage rooms of
degree in art history, she
Although no one
the
museum
was
hired to
do public
relations for a small
at
to lunches
and big receptions sometimes
one day.
all in
THE SOLUTION
Sarah
felt
most comfortable
in dresses,
and because she was
weight, she preferred to wear dark colors which she
She chose a Capsule
in black
felt
made
slightly over-
her look slimmer.
and gray but knew she could highlight her face
with brightly colored accessories. She chose mostly jumper style dresses as they
could be worn with the blouses she already owned, or bare, with jewelry to
dress
them up. She
these as well.
The
also
felt
outfit she
comfortable
had worn
in shirtdresses so she selected
for job interviews
was
a black
two of
and white
checked jumper which she had teamed with a black jacket. She added a black
jumper, a gray jumper and a gray print
shirtdress. In addition, she
silk shirtdress.
She already had a black
bought a gray velvet jacket which could go over
all
of the dresses. For $435 Sarah built a Capsule of thirty-four different looks
based on five dresses.
To
brighten her Capsule, Sarah chose three silk scarves, one in red, one in hot
pink, and one in royal blue. She
owned
earrings
and necklaces as well as a good
watch. She also had a pair of black slingback shoes.
What
she did need
was
Black /Gray Capsule

Black
Gray
Will
work with
Jackets or on
A.
Dress
B.
Dress
on
Jackets or
c
D.
its
own Withorwitho
own With
on
Jackets or
own With
Dress
Dress
Skirt
Jacket
G.
Jacket
H.
Blouse
I.
Blouse
J-
Blouse
K.
Blouse
Sweater
White bow-neck
Yellow turtleneck
Accessories
Shoes
its
or without
its
or without
Getting
pair of black
pumps and
Together
a small black handbag. "With this Capsule," she said,
I'm dressed appropriately at
"I feel
It
can be as dressed up or dressed
my
down
office
as
and
look right in the evening.
like."
WHAT ABOUT A COAT?

The
plus piece in
Capsules
any wardrobe
and
in color
style.
is
a coat. Ideally,
business to pleasure, informal to dressy.
chunk
If
you
of
will
it
work with
all
good coat should go from morning
your budget, the mileage you
Though
from
get
initially
it
of
your
to night,
will take a
good
will justify the investment.
it
are buying an all-weather coat, there are several things to consider. First,
the coat should
fit
over
of
all
your
clothes.
should be roomy enough to go
It
over your heaviest jackets, be comfortable over your bulkiest sweaters, and
cover your lowest hemlines. (This, of course, excludes formal occasions,
you
will
need either an evening jacket or ankle-length coat.) The
comes with coats

give
you
the kind of shoulder
when you
have.
No
have raglan sleeves or dropped shoulders. These
that
try
on coats
and arm room you
will give
you
good idea
will need.
of
when
easiest
Wearing a jacket
how much room you
sense feeling like a stuffed soldier in a brand
new
fit
styles
will
coat.
The second consideration is protection from the cold and from wet weather.
Button-out linings are a good solution. The standard trenchcoat can work well
for the
day but the
to solve this
typical tan color doesn't translate well to the night.
problem
is
to
choose a trenchcoat
black. This will look appropriate for
wool gabardine, a
lining
is
One way
dark color such as navy or
day or evening. Whether
classic coat like this will
Another type of coat that takes a
in a
in
cotton or
work with most wardrobes!
a "shell," an unlined coat with very
simple lines that can take a fur lining, or even
slip
over a fur coat or a sweater-
Working Wardrobe
knit coat.
51
The concept
is
the
same
as the trenchcoat, but the style of the shell
is
not quite as sporty.
There are some fabrics that are perfect for

is
featherweight and can fold to
fit
inside
travel.
Qiana, for example,
your handbag or
briefcase.
There are
other nylons and blends that do similar tricks. These coats are excellent protection
from the
rain,
and can save you concern about sudden showers whether
you're dashing around
town or
traveling.
With
coat can look dressy enough for evening and
An added bonus can
be the reversible coat
change the feeling of your coat to

Fashion can be frivolous, but
it
so well,
stores
way
to
spirit.
The
quilted
down
coat
is
have sold quilted coats for a long
only recently that they have become such a part of the fashion scene.
it is
Although
the cold
be appropriate for work.
kind of fabric, an easy
also can be practical.
good example. Though army surplus

time,
shiny surface, this kind of
in this
your
suit
its
still
styles
may
change, quilted
down does
offer great protection
and from wet weather. In addition, because the

it
can be stunning night or day
in
from
fabric takes color
everything from black to the boldest
coloration.
Choosing a color for your coat may be a challenge depending on
how
your Capsules
you have
your Capsules.
with which
grease as
it
are. In general,
will
much
the evening as
dark color
it is
is
wisest to pick the darkest color
practical for
work with your
will
during the day.
and
that
it
in
reasons including the ease
clothes, the fact that
as a lighter color will,

it
many
varied
will
it
will not
show
dirt
or
look as attractive during
52
Getting
Together
It
THE TOTAL YOU

Before going further with your wardrobe,
your
yourself, to look at
style
is
fashion
it
hair,
may be worth
essential part of a
certainly
an
moment
and your makeup. To be
see the total you.
and know what works best
features
an
is
your
your clothes you must
fortable in
body and
figure,
to analyze
truly
com-
You must know your own
for you. Developing
your
own
good working wardrobe. Though following
interesting part of
life,
as kindred to the times as seeing
the latest movie, hearing the newest music, or reading the current bestseller,
of these should reflect
and
your own
taste.
But finding your
own
all
style takes time
testing.
Hair and makeup follow similar fashion trends.

only what
is
the latest look but
major department store
what
is
most
It
is
important to
flattering to
offers free sessions with
beauty experts
everything from analyzing your skin to teaching you the

niques. Stressing
your needs
ing, or for a special
While
it is
in lipstick,
lines,
makeup
for
who
will
do
cosmetic tech-
work, for even-
new looks in eye shadow, or daring new colors

makeup for work should look as natural as possible.
mean you shouldn't wear any; it does mean that whatever you
that
fresh
and
light.
company which some
executives demonstrates
woman may
There
stores
minutes. Although she uses a

that a
it is
latest
photographic session, will help them to help you.
remember
wear should look
women
whether
not
fun to try out exotic
That doesn't
metics
to them,
know
you. Almost every
how
full
is
a fascinating videotape from a cos-
show from time
to time. In
it,
one of
their
she creates her face every day in fourteen
range of cosmetics to cover every problem
have, from deep circles under the eyes to creeping smile
her finished look
is
attractive without being heavy.
Working Wardrobe
Many
53
cosmetic firms are
now
may have and how
problems you
include a
shadow,
full
all
much
stressing skin treatment as
Experts from these firms will analyze your skin to find out
range of products, including everything from special soap to eye
geared to your skin's needs.
Hair that overshadows you
is
your way or causes you
disconcerting to
work.
may
may
to others.
is
styles
very important, and
like so
If
your hair
trips to the hairdresser
features
really
good
and advise you on what
your
is
that
it
total self.
It
will
clothes,
is
many
her compliments.
it is
the care
too,
it
may
an investment that
is
find that
of
good cosmetician,
No
you need
yourself
more
will assess
your
it
matter
always look better
interesting that so
and
things that are good,

it,
you may
well cut,
will
for
That
into a plastic-coated rubber
it
look best for you.
you
it is
face.
with barettes or combs.
if
how much
you pay
atten-
many remarks about Nancy
Reagan are about how well groomed she always

indeed expensive,
away from your
you can take care
beautician, like a
money you spend on your

tion to
and
that gets
the hairstyle, the better
are accustomed to paying. But
can offer a good return.
easily.
The simpler
new
more than you
or obvious.
out of your eyes continuously can be
it
back and putting
involve trying out
A good haircut
fewer
to brush
it
stiff
no more help than glaring makeup. Hair
hair, try a style that takes
be as easy as brushing
band, or
cost
you and
you have long
If
what
it is,
The treatment can
best to deal with them.
Like your makeup, your hairstyle should be flattering but not
in
makeup.
as
what type
is.
Although her clothing
is
effort she puts into her total look that brings
Getting
54
Once your basic Capsule
you may want
is set,
robe can contain a single Capsule with an
two color scheme, or
You
another
in
may
it
No
if
are adding Capsules,
Your working wardof pieces based
on a
all
may
be combined within your
work
together.
you want more than two colors
in
your
closet.
work around black or navy, not both. As you
But
if
will see
discuss accessories, this simplifies everything.
charts offer suggestions for Capsule combinations.
make your own
follow them exactly,
springboard for your
Two
it.
might, for example, have one Capsule in black and white, and
The Working Capsule
may
to
number
be composed of different Capsules which inter-
gray and yellow. These two groups
one can blame you
when we
add
to
infinite
working wardrobe since the four colors can
you
Together
ON THE CAPSULE CONCEPT
BUILDING
relate.
It
own
substitutions, or use
them
You
as a
ideas.
of the suggested Capsules are geared to a tailored, suit look.
These are the
Black/Red and the Ivory /Tan. The other Capsules, the Navy/Wine, Forest/
Ginger, and the
around
yet
dresses.
stay
Gray/Brown
With
within
all
of
offer a softer look.
The Navy/Beige works
them you can go from very dressy
framework
the
of
an
to almost casual,
appropriate
Working
Wardrobe.
Remember,
will
the emphasis
hold their shape and
adaptable to
all
is
on
quality; natural fibers
last longer.
At
the
same
climates. Investing in one Capsule
Wardrobe. With
it
you can
months without repeating
and lightweight
time, they are
is all
you need
get at least forty different looks,
the
same
outfit twice.
fabrics
more
for a
easily
Working
enough
for
two
Working Wardrobe
55
REAL PEOPLE
The two women
in their
in this
chapter have achieved success in their careers as well as
wardrobes. They have learned to dress
in a
way
own
that suggests their
personal style and good taste.
Each
woman
ferent
is
in a different profession
lifestyle.
demands
with different job demands and a
common
Yet there are certain
good deal
dif-
denominators: work that
of travel, hours that go long past the usual five o'clock
day, and high visibility. While each woman's taste and budget has grown with
her position, each has had to develop her
own working wardrobe. With
this
goal in mind, each has, whether consciously or not, used the Capsule Concept.
These
of
women
offer very different
Hanne Merriman and
approaches to dressing
the vibrancy of
individual, they each offer ideas that
may
the tailored elegance
Kaaren Gray. While

help
you
their styles are
your own working
solidify
wardrobe.
Kaaren Gray
Kaaren Gray paints her wardrobe with splashes of color. For
essence of
statement.
live
life.
She surrounds
"To a great
with," says the
after eleven years at
everything in
growing
in
by seeing
life.
extent, the colors
tall,
woman on
want
pale blonde editor of
House
may
combinations
a
herself with
&
to
new look
at the
her, color
it
&
is
the
her strongest
wear are the colors
House
want
to
Garden. "Even now,"
Garden magazine she says
take a
I
and makes
it
"I
get
my
ideas
from
garden and see pretty flowers
never would have thought
of.
could be influenced
the street wearing something unusual, or even
by
looking at a plate of food that's been beautifully prepared and put together.
could be movies, theater, paintings, or anything around

rethink
my colors.
cut out pictures, keep color books,
myself on interesting color combinations."
me
that
It
makes me
and even write notes
to
Getting
56
It
Together
Her clothing may sometimes bring a doubletake. Her Capsules are Purple /Red
and Blue/Apricot and she works them back and
little
better
if
you
the best investments
belt.
You
and put them
get a 'look' with
it."
She
can wear
it
many different ways. "One

Mary McFadden jacket,
in
ever made," she said, "was a
quilted silk with bright flowers
with any solid
on
sleeveless silk blouse in a
That has become the most
it.
silk dress.
combinations. For cocktail parties
a lot of fun and
invest in one special item that gives her the chance to play with color even
more, a jacket, for instance, that can be used
it
try the unusual. For example, take purple pants
with a turquoise blouse, and than add a red
may
forth. "I find
You can make something look
very interesting to combine unusual colors.
plum
and
color,
wear the same plum top with pants
bund. So I'm having fun with
And
belt in a
in
fantastic thing.
can put together different

skirt.
With
it
wear a
very vivid blue. Other times
and
that are sky blue
And you
it.
then
have an apricot
of
my
cummer-
apricot
could seriously wear
it
with a pair
of jeans."
For
this color expert, there is
no such thing as
"safe."
grain. "I'm sort of allergic to the idea of putting

"I
would wear
the elements.
the wintertime. But
would
have a navy gabardine

try to
a quilted jacket or combined with

unit."
Even when she has the
a black suit," she

It
basic color."
suit
The other
change
it
have her
do have
but with a
staple in her
little
simply goes against her

suit," she said.
skirt that
more
some other color
basics, they
went on, "but
has the feeling of a
It
on a navy
wear a
rather than
make
special look.
"I
wardrobe
it
a fixed
don't have
a purple gabardine skirt
more
and
fashion. In fact, purple

is silk
lot in
for me, perhaps with
tunic blouses. She
coat.
is
my
buys
Working Wardrobe
them
mix with pants or wear with
in different colors to
give a
The
57
little
first
more
time
"style" than
skirts.
met Kaaren, she wore a
silk shirtdress in a brilliant
That shock of color stood out against her pale skin and flaxen
shirtdresses are
something
she added,
style,
As
editor of a
sibility to
home
building
told me, "whether
And
royal blue.
'Those
silk
keeping to her offbeat
have an asymmetric neckline,
And
can
furnishings magazine, Kaaren feels there's a certain respon-
is
like
it's
lot of
show and
case for a sense of individuality.
own
they
feels
to dinner."
look good. But there's a
Conde Nast
me.
hair.
and the colors are sensational.
find the look
from work out
right
live in," she told
particularly like the ones that
"I
or buttons off center.
go
She
shirts or tailored tops.
"It
competition, too. "Just being in the
tell,"
she confides. That
matters
how you
just neatness or a certain style.
point of view in the end."
As
for Kaaren,
"my
makes
a stronger
put things together," she
You have
to
have your
point of view
is
color."
Kaaren Gray: Working Capsule

Colors Purple/Red. Blue/Apricot
Fabrics
Silks.
Accessories
Wool
Shoes
Then throws
in a
gabardine. Natural fibers.
in
brown
or wicker. Bags can have accent textures, colors. Jewelry
takes texture, like shells or beads, or has a
Style
A colorful
wide range of bright accents.
point of view.
Key words Combinations. Color
blocks. Unusual.
chunky look.
Getting
58
It
Together
Hanne Merriman
She could barely speak English when she came to
one of the few top
women
retailers in the
country and
this
now
she's
U.S. She learned her English watching
style watching other women. "You see it all the time in our
Hanne Merriman, the president of Garfinckel's. "New buyers come
in, and within three months you can see a big change in the way they look."
Ideas for dressing come fast and furiously from designers, from the market,
from people in the store. You can drown in a sea of ideas. "Everybody tries to
soap operas and her

store," says
become themselves very
What does
office for
when
she look for
an interview,
be wearing.
fast."
like to see
she's hiring? "If a
young woman comes
people in
understands herself, her colors, and her style
beiges,
browns and grays. Therefore,
robe colors simple keeps her
every decision
that
what
is
is
life
want
when
Keeping
simple too, a stark contrast to her
to
spend a
get up,
my
lot of
get dressed," she said, "I
time trying to think what
usually decide before
my
colors to beiges, browns, and grays
go together.
When you
want
same kinds
sions.
The
What
she buys
of colors,
easier
is
work where
have
is
kept constantly
things to be easy.
to do. In the
it's
you make
means
there are a lot of things
start getting into lots of colors,
very easy.
it,
"It
the better
it
morn-
bath what I'm going to wear.
you have
about your underwear, your hose, your shoes, your handbag."

the
for."
complex. From what kinds of looks and what quantities to
under pressure. "So when
that
would look
tend to wear them." Keeping her ward-
buy, to what stores to build and where to build them, she
ing
my
colors appeal to this chic, blonde executive? "I'm comfortable in the
What
don't
into
you can prejudge and say what she should

their own style of dressing. As long as she
don't think
doesn't take
you long
If
to
worry
she stays in
to
make
deci-
is."
usually separates, skirts, silk shirts, jackets, and sweaters. She
adds on to the pieces she already has, updating her wardrobe with new shapes
Working Wardrobe
and
textures.
59
One Capsule
included a beige
she bought for a trip and
now wears
work
to
top and a soft dirndl skirt from Calvin Klein. She
silk knit
repeated the same pieces again in a deeper tobacco color.
Then she added
a string color cable knit sweater from Ralph Lauren, beige linen pants, and a
macrame
from
tunic top
Irka.
Anne
top and pants from
Two
other pieces were an
ombre
striped beige
Klein.
worked together, so that every top could be worn with every

To update this group the following year, she bought some purple
pieces. "When the purples started coming out and I tried them on,"
All of these pieces
bottom.
accent
she says,
tie in
new
"it
very
was another very comfortable color
much with
the beiges.
It
just
fit
to dress with because
right in
and
it
gives
you
it
does
whole
feeling."
The important
thing in dressing
feeling comfortable.
make
If
fashion
is
is
not having to worry about your clothes and

a complicated business,
it
is
Hanne's aim to
dressing with style as easy as possible.
Hanne Merriman: Working Capsule

Colors Gray/Brown.
Purple/Beige.
Fabrics Gabardines. Tweeds.

Accessories
Watch.
diamond
Keeps
it
Two
Gold
Ease.
bracelet.
May wear
minimum.
to a
Style Clean and simple. Very
Key words Comfort.
Stays with natural fibers.
pairs of earrings for day: silver balls, gold balls. For evening:
studs.
down
Silks. Linens.
neutral, very natural.
gold chain with or without pendant.
Chapter 2
THE ESSENTIAL
ACCESSORIES
JLashion designers and fashion directors give as
much
thought and time to accessorizing clothes as they do to the clothes themselves.
Taking one
outfit,
they can give
it
a dozen different looks.
Fashion shows are a good example of
over and over, accessorized

fessional eye can't
tell
that
fashion capitals, or in
it's
New
how this is done.
in totally different
same
the
Clothes
may be
repeated
ways. Sometimes, even the pro-
thing. In Paris
and Milan,
the
European
York, fashion shows are major productions, with
music, models and choreography galore. Costs run in the tens of thousands of
dollars
and designers want
again, they
come
make
their
money's worth. Showing an
sure the press and buyers have seen
it.
in the colors or the style of the accessories, creating just
to turn a buyer's head.

after seeing the clothes
they liked.
How strange
it is
outfit again
and
A dramatic change can

enough difference
for buyers to go back to the
showroom
on the runway, and have trouble identifying the items
What may look
like a
dumpy
can look exotic and exciting when
it's
dress or a simple suit
on the hanger,
been sashed, bowed or bejeweled.
Working Wardrobe
61
Some Seventh Avenue
designers insist that their clothes be
shown or advertised
Anne
Klein, Halston, Bill
with only the accessories they
and Geoffrey Beene
Blass
and jewelry
the right accessories can
The same
classic,
will all
their clothing
if
thing can
is
Calvin Klein,
select.
send their
belts, shoes, stockings,
bags
They know the difference

wrong ones can ruin an outfit.
being photographed.
make and how
happen on a
simple clothing, well
own
lesser scale too.
made but
were a jewel and polished each
the
outfit
once did a fashion show of
conservative.
treated each piece as
if it
with accessories. The show drew raves,
because the merchandise looked exciting and wearable.

That's the trick used
by fashion professionals when
photography layouts. Every

merchandise to look
store,
no matter what
they're
it
working on
price levels,
only
like a million dollars. That's the
mail orders. Whether an outfit costs $29.95 or $2,995
may
its
way
it
wants
its
will bring in
has to look great. They
use unusual color combinations, or focus on a marvelous belt, a boldly
colored scarf, an unusual necklace, a striking handbag. Suddenly a dull dress
looks
was
by
terrific.
That's
what makes
often surprised
mail.
Not
by
the
just the skirt
the reader stop, look,
number
of people
and send
who would
order a total outfit
and
the
bag as well. That's smart shopping. After
all, it
took a professional eye to put those pieces together in the
fresh
and
Why not
coupon.
or the sweater. No, they would send in for those but
also order the beret, the belt,
best.
in the
use that experience and taste level
if
way
that looked
you're not sure of
your own.
Store
windows are done with the same kind of care and attention to
More time again is usually spent picking just the right accents than
accessories.
in pulling the clothes.
can
make
The
last year's discard.
right shoe, the right bag, the belt, scarf
and jewelry
They can make something look like the latest thing or

They can make it look expensive or cheap, dramatic or dull.
a difference.
The
62
always had fun doing a whole bank of windows, repeating one dress and
accessorizing
wool
it
differently in each
window. For example, take
Put a creamy turtleneck sweater under
shirtdress.
leather belt, use
it,
a simple black
cinch
it
with a wide
heavy textured stockings, low heeled walking shoes and a
shoulder bag. You've got a great casual look. Take the same dress and
fill
in the
neck with ropes of pearls and gold chains. Tie the waist with a thin black patent
leather belt, use sheer tinted hose, patent leather slingback shoes,
black envelope bag.
It's
just right for
dress can take a striped silk scarf
pendant.
and a small
going out to dinner. In between,
worn
this
same
as an ascot, or a simple gold chain
and
can take leather pumps or patent slingbacks, bright colored accents
It
or earthy toned ones. Each accessory changes the look of the dress and finishes
it
differently.
Accessories are as important to the Capsule Concept as the basic clothing

elements.
The Capsule Concept
gives an easy formula for putting together a
basic wardrobe. But every Capsule needs certain items to complete

a total look
accessories.
means
Once
this
your Capsule. You

clothes, going
that each clothing Capsule has
A man
on
we'll
to build
on
is
basics.
won many cases on the Supreme

When his wife is at home, she coor-
successful lawyer, has
dinates his outfit, picking out the right shirt
choosing his shoes and socks.
When
codes his clothing so he can't
make
suit,
it
to another. Like the clothing Capsule, this
go beyond the
Court, but can't put his clothes together.
brown
Creating
it.
set of essential
be able to interchange accessories as well as
from one Capsule
know, a very
own
has been established, you can go beyond
will also
the foundation. Later
its
she
is
and
tie
to
away on
go with
a mistake. That
everything else he picks will be in the
his suit,
a business
way
if
trip,
and even
she color
he decides on a
brown family
too.
Working Wardrobe
63
The Capsule Concept works
the
you
accessories for each Capsule,
same way. By having a

can't
go wrong. Some
set
of essential
women
always stay
with these same accessories, keeping things to an easy decision. They find
makes
for quick dressing
all
the time. Others enjoy collecting accessories,
it
and
use them for creativity in their clothes. But in both cases, they begin with the
basics for their Capsule.
These essential accessories
into five categories: shoes, handbags, jewelry,
fall
scarves and belts. Just as with your clothing, the essential accessories must be
planned ahead. Shoes, for instance, are an expensive purchase and should be
well thought out.
My next door neighbor recently asked me what she should do
with a pair of shoes she had
just
bought.
know
don't
"I
what's
them," she complained, "but they don't seem to go with anything
wrong with
I
own." Had
she bought them with anything specific in mind? "Not really," she replied.
did she
buy them?
"I just
be bought on impulse. They must be planned out

First,
think about the clothes
and when you

in
will
mind. You
suit
will
and a wine
you have
that
you need
lost
A writer friend
like the rest of
shirtdress for
your Capsule.
your Capsule, what colors they

set
are,
out with a specific color and style
a pair of shoes for work,
double to go out to dinner. You have
just
and
that
bought a navy
your Capsule. Deciding on navy pumps or
slingbacks in advance will save
because you
in
be wearing them. Then
may know
sometimes they
Why
liked them," she said sadly. But shoes are too costly to
you from picking out
bright green sandals
your head.
of
mine recently sold some
stories
and celebrated with a shop-
ping spree. She bought herself not one but two pairs of boots, each costing well
over a hundred dollars.
"Why
boots?"
"Not now." "What'll
"Why
not?
head and
said,
asked her, and she replied,
Aren't they in fashion?" Perhaps being too honest,
do now?" she moaned. "Well,
shook
it
my
doesn't really matter,"
The
be concerned with the
latest fashion."
64
answered. "After
all,
you don't have
"What do you mean?" she came back

but
certainly care about
it. It's
to
quickly.
part of
life."
may
"I
not write about fashion,
Now she is stuck with
two
pairs of
very expensive boots, because she bought them impulsively. She can't return
them because she wore them
right
away. She probably won't be wearing them
long though, because she hadn't thought out her purchase. In

reverse. After
we
talked,
and with
Capsule, and bought herself a beautiful black gabardine
anything
ever bought," she told me, "but
fact, just the
careful planning, she started a Black/White
suit. "It cost
never
more than
better about an
felt
investment."
THE PROBLEM
Kathy
gray.
B.
had a wardrobe based on neutral
With her dark skin and dark
colors, with a Capsule of beige
hair, the light
and
shades looked very attractive.
She stayed with simple, understated clothes, but wanted something to give
more depth to her dressing. She didn't like wearing scarves, and had a few
pieces of jewelry,
namely a
thin gold chain
and some small inexpensive stud
She wanted to make more of a statement about
earrings.
herself.
THE SOLUTION
At 5 foot
six,
in keeping.
in scale. For
clothes.
Kathy could carry clothes
We decided
example, a
to try earrings
set of
well,
and needed accessories
and necklaces
that
that
were
were chunky or large
oversized ivory beads looked wonderful with her
So did a very long rope of pearls that she could wind around four or
She started wearing earrings that were much larger than the tiny
studs. She found large gold balls, and large silver balls that set off her face. She
also found a very wide ivory cuff bracelet and lots of thin silver bangles. Kathy
five times.
found that by wearing one jewelry item as a

the ivory beads
one day, or
more punch. She

beat places.
all
single statement, as for example,
of the silver bangles the next,
also discovered that she loved looking for
it
gave her dressing
new
jewelry in off
Beige/Gray Working Capsule

Beige
A.
Jacket
B.
Jacket
c.
Skirt
D.
Skirt
E.
Pants
F.
Pants
G.
Blouse
H.
Blouse
I.
Blouse
Sweater
K.
Sweater
L.
Dress
Gray
Will
work with
All skirts
and pants
Accessories
Earrings
All skirts
and pan
All skirts
and pan
All skirts
and pan
All skirts
and pani
All skirls
and pai
The
66
THE PROBLEM
Judy B. had been working for several years as an agent for an insurance company. Her job required that she be
to see clients.
and
full
tie
but
skirt,
them, and
it
and out of her
car, traveling
around town
tailored, often a blazer, shirt
but wanted to give them a more interesting look. She had a drawer
know what to do with them. She wasn't sure how to

way when she wore them. She liked jewelry
of scarves but didn't
felt
in
She liked to wear clothes that were
they got in her
felt
didn't look right with her tailored clothes.
THE SOLUTION
After looking at Judy's scarves,
we
discovered that most of them were large
many
squares in big floral patterns. She had acquired

flected the taste of others rather than of herself.
of
them
as gifts
Judy decided to invest
and
in
re-
some
oblong scarves, from very narrow to wide. With these she could dress up her
shirts
with a
hacking
bow
tie
style, or as a
look, or
fill
in a neckline
with an ascot, or wear them
muffler inside or outside her jacket. She also bought two
small squares to use as a handkerchief in a blazer pocket
if
she didn't want
something around her neck.
As
for jewelry, she decided to keep that simple, too.
glasses, she didn't
want
With her short
hair
and
a lot of interfering looks. She bought one pair of gold
button earrings which she could wear every day. She also found an old gold
bangle bracelet she hadn't
By
scaling
down and
tailored look but
worn
in
years which looked great with her clothes.
keeping her accessories to a minimum, Judy retained her
gave
it
some
style.
Black/Gray Working Capsule

Gray
A.
Jacket
B.
Jacket
Will
work with
Skirt
D.
Skirt
E.
Skirt
All rackets, blouses
Skirt
Blouse
H.
Blouse
I.
Blouse
Blouse
K.
Blouse
L.
Sweater
Accessories
Earrings
The
68
SHOES
From a
you need
practical standpoint,
at least
two
pairs of shoes in a
Capsule. Feet need a change from one day to the next, especially
doing
to be
Chapter
much walking
if
Working
you're going
or standing. For a working Capsule like those in
need a simple, tailored shoe. The shape most suited to this is a

pump, and though it could have an ankle strap, a cross strap, a bow or some
1,
you'll
other detail,
it
should be a
styles
may
good
taste. It is the
Although
kind of shoe that can work with clothes for the office and
can look attractive
at a restaurant as well.
suits, tailored dresses,
If
fairly simple, closed-heel, closed-toe shoe.
change, heels about an inch and a half to two inches are generally in
A pump
always works well with
or even a skirt and blouse.
you're buying a second pair, the next shoes could be slightly dressier, perhaps
and slightly open toe. (A good rule

thumb about open or bare shoes versus covered up ones is that if your
a slingback style, or ones with a closed heel

of
clothing
is
covered up, your shoes should be, too.) Between the
slingback, there will be
enough
flexibility to
possibly can, find one manufacturer that
and stay with
it.
No
shoe
is
pump and
go from morning to evening.
makes shoes
right, regardless of style,
that
if it's
fit
If
the
you
your foot well
not comfortable on
your foot.
When
fits
trying
on shoes,
it's
good idea
from your Capsule. You
around from one department

the outfits in hand.
reason
when
They
may
to bring with
you
at least
one of the out-
notice store display people carrying clothes
to another, selecting shoes
are the pros,
and accessories with
and they don't take chances. There's no
you're spending your money, that you can't do the same thing.
you can, wear
your clothes
and
try the shoes
with them. Things look very
Colors change, too, and
ferent
on the body than they do on the hanger or
work
differently
erally
be the same color or darker than your clothing. This gives a
when
they are
worn or mixed
shelf.
If
dif-
together.
shoe should genfluid line.
Working Wardrobe
69
Bright or light shoes bring the eye
sheer
tint of
your
downward. Wearing stockings
skirt will help pull
opaques or textured hose look best with heavy, textured clothing

skirts
and thick
balance.
And
knits.
They
like
tweedy
usually need a low heeled shoe to give
for evening or during the
summer,
if
them
you're wearing sandals, be
wear sandalfoot hose. That kind of attention
sure to
well-dressed
that are a
your look together too. Black or colored
to detail
is
one sign of a
woman.
HANDBAGS
A good handbag is an essential accessory for your daytime Capsule,

When
a friend of mine broke her toe,
asked her
It
seems as
hold
in
if
many women
your hand, not a suitcase
to
work.
your
Not only
weigh you down.
If
foot.
Broken toes
possessions into
uncomfortable,
it
should be a bag to
the necessities
become
need to carry a brush,
feel the
simple solution
it
of course.
happened. Embar-
life's
is it
the necessities;
Some women
overbearing, reevaluate them.
comb, and cosmetics
to
to stuff
do.
A handbag should hold
looks sloppy, too.
it
had dropped her handbag on her
rassed, she confessed she
and aching backs are two good reasons not

your purse.
how
to
is
keep an extra
set of
cosmetics, perhaps even including a toothbrush and toothpaste at your office in

a desk drawer.
If
your car
is
your
office,
consider the glove compartment
as an alternative.
of your handbag should, of course, conform to your Capsule. Jane
Tuman, fashion coordinator for Saks Fifth Avenue remarked how often she is
The color
surprised at the
wrong
number
color bag.
prefer black, use
of well-dressed
A burgundy
it
spoil their look with the
just
about any color.
If
you
with your black Capsule. The same goes for navy and
brown. But a black bag with a navy

thought out.
women who
bag can work with
outfit looks
misplaced and not well
The
70
Part of
my
job used to involve accessorizing the clothes for ads and catalogs.
For one spring catalog
we had sent dozens of bags ahead

way we knew we would have lots
photographer's studio. That
Oddly enough,
photographed,
Why?
we
as
choose from.
chose a bag to go with the dress on the model being
we found we
kept reaching for the same bags over and over.
It
just
purse, about fifteen dollars, but so flexible
about everything. By the time
everyone on the
bestseller,
sule because
it
Some women
it
We knew
would
it
Cap-
that's perfect for a
adapts to a great variety of clothes.
more comfortable carrying
feel
One word
small or hold on to
if
went
it
finished with the session,
was. That's the kind of accessory
it.
and
if
your
that's
else's
shoulder bag.
If
you do carry one, keep
targets.
Even a small shoulder bag can
fit
inside a
to carry both.
your work requires that you carry a large amount of papers, a briefcase
be a necessity. The ideal purse

sleek
and not
like a
will
fit
inside
your
bellboy trying to balance too
briefcase, so that
many
have even designed bags that go inside bags, rather
may remember from
may
you look
bags. (Some designers
Russian dolls you
like the
childhood.) But a small envelope or rectangular shaped
purse should be able to
slip inside
ury of being used for more than
most
just
briefcases. Briefcases
New
Jersey,
showed me
it.
Some
can offer the luxit
as an
Millicent Fenwick, the
Con-
carrying papers.
overnight case. Others carry their lunch in
gresswoman from
it
This will also save you from getting pickpocketed as
make easy
you need
a shoulder bag,
of caution, however; there's nothing worse than
being sideswiped by someone
briefcase,
we were
including the models, wanted that bag.
set,
and
preference, fine.
shoulder bags
all
A cream colored straw envelope popped up in picture after pic-
was an inexpensive
ture.
with
If
of time to the
to
Because there were a few colors and shapes that were adaptable to
kinds of looks.
be a
people use
the bright red leather briefcase that
Working Wardrobe
j\
she uses every day.
"It's
marvelous," she said,
"because
can bring
in
homemade bread on one side and important papers on the other." And for
some women, a briefcase is not a briefcase at all, but a colorful straw or canvas
tote that holds everything they need.
Al Hackl,
who
is
in the printing business, tells of a
company more than
for his
industry to
sell his
product out
men. This very attractive
in the field
woman wanted
woman who came to work

the first woman in his
was
and her potential customers were

to
embroidered, and
and many
Today
it
isn't
it
worked
sales in her
well.
come
departments as well as
in
She received
it
look
softer, she
had
it
many compliments on her brief-
orderbook.
necessary for a
world. Briefcases
all
look feminine but businesslike as
She decided to carry a briefcase, but to make
well.
case
ten years ago. She
woman
to use arts
and
crafts to be in the business
various sizes and colors and can be found in handbag
in traditional
men's and luggage areas. There are some
which look more feminine than others because of the color of the leather or the
trim or the shape of the frame.
It
doesn't hurt to soften your look in this case.
SCARVES
Isadora
Duncan overdid
it,
but two or three
silk
scarves can serve a multitude
An attractive scarf can add pizazz and change the look of a blouse,
or a dress. The shapes may vary, but generally a medium sized square or
of purposes.
a suit,
oblong works best. These can be made into mufflers, ascots, bows,
ties.
is
belts
and
Naturally, the colors should complement what's in your Capsule, but this
also a
good place
to introduce
new
tones and accents too. For a Black/Red
Capsule, you might have a purple scarf, a foulard print, and a boldly striped
Or you might prefer

Or florals with lots of
oblong.
strictly solids that
alone.
color.
you can mix together or wear
The
72
Some women always wear
a scarf with a coat. Leslie Stahl, the
CBS news
cor-
respondent, wore a bright blue scarf with her dark coat on the evening news
one winter.
It
not only brightened up her coat, but framed her face as well.
way a scarf is tied too, can send out the message that you are fashion
Some years the look is a bow to one side, other times it's a muffler worn
flipped over. Fashion magazines and store displays always show the latest
Just the
savvy.
just
look and
it's
easy to get the message.
Oblong scarves work well

54-inch bias scarf
the neck.
is
as mufflers, ascots,
the best size for a belt.
shirt collar.
The very
pocket handkerchiefs, a good
way
small squares that stores carry
to perk
Old scarves should never be discarded

teen years ago
still
better at
worn
work as
small square can be used as an ascot or tied in a knot and
under an open
They're
bows, and cummerbunds. The
The smaller 45-inch can be
bought several
in perfect shape,
silk
if
up a
jacket.
they're in
foulard
good condition. About
menswear squares
in
never go out of style with tweedy clothes, and
look forward to taking them out of the drawer each autumn. They're
sonal signal that
The following
fall
my
per-
has begun.
illustrations
mileage out of them.
fif-
Bermuda.
show how you can
tie
your scarves
to get the
most
Working Wardrobe
JLhe bow
be made close
to the
is
made most
easily with
neckline, over a jewel neckline, or under a collar.

suit or dress
an oblong
scarf. It
can
neck or dropped lower, and can be worn inside an open
and change the look of an
A pussycat bow can soften a
outfit to give
your Capsule a feminine
Illustration
Courtesy Echo
Scarfs.
The
Xhe
scarf.
It
hacking style
adds a sporty look to
is
jackets and
fold the scarf in half lengthwise
and place
another look
is
made with an oblong

To make it, first
great under coats.
it
around your neck so
that
you
are
holding the folded half in one hand and the two outside edges in the other.
Then put both edges through
the folded loop.

Illustration
Courtesy Echo
Scarfs.
Working Wardrobe
tie
can be
made
easily with
an oblong scarf.
It
a dash of color or pattern to a blouse, a sweater or a dress. Slip the scarf
your neck making the
left
side longer than the right.
Then wrap
can add
around
the long end
once around the short end and pull the long end through the top of the loop.
You can
adjust
it
to be high or low, to
dropped lower for a
sit
just
under the collar
like a
man's
tie
or
softer look.
Illustration
Courtesy Echo
Scarfs.
The
JLhe pouf
first
is
also
made with an oblong
scarf.
To make
it,
double the scarf around your neck, leaving one end longer than the other.
Then loop
the ends over each other,
and
pull the longer
end through only part
way.
Illustration
Courtesy Echo
Scarfs.
Working Wardrobe
JLhe cowboy
size,
floral. First fold the scarf into
front
style
is
made with
a square scarf of any
and can be done with anything from a small cotton bandana

and knot the ends
a triangle.
Then
in the back. This
to a big silk
place the point of the triangle in
can give a great
new
look to a simple
sweater or dress, and give another direction to your Capsule.

Illustration
Courtesy Echo
Scarfs.
The Essential Accessories
made with a square scarf and worn inside or

To make it, fold the square horizontally
becomes an oblong. Then flip the ends over one another.
JLhe jabot
is
outside collar of your blouse or dress.
so that
it
Illustration
Courtesy Echo
Scarfs.
Working Wardrobe
soft sash
It
around the waist
is
made with
can be made into a cumberbund or finished with a bow.
It
a bias scarf.
can pull together a
simple blouse and skirt or dress up a shirt and pants look. The bias scarf can
also be
made
into a
tie
or
bow and worn
at the neck.
Illustration
Courtesy Echo
Scarfs.
The
80
BELTS
If
to
scarves frame your face, then belts set off your waist and give a polished look
an
outfit.
meant
They can complete a skirt and blouse to make it look like they're
A good belt can replace an inexpensive sash that may
for each other.
come with
a dress
good quality
should
last a
you buy.
Basic belts should be one to
two inches wide, of
and though they may cost more than you
leather,
very long time.
may go
Belts, like scarves,
in
and out
they
like,
of style, but
A good dark belt in a corresponding
they can remain a staple in your wardrobe.
color to your Capsule, like black, brown, or navy, and one in wine, can be an
excellent
complement
One
of the bestsellers in
gold metal belt which works well with
Donna
is
An
your clothing Capsule.
to
the belt extra panache.
Karan, designer for
the perfect accessory for
Anne
any
Klein
&
all
interesting buckle can give
many
stores
is
the expandable
kinds of looks from a.m. to p.m.
Co. suggests that a wine snakeskin belt
whether dressy or sporty, daytime or even-
outfit,
ing.
JEWELRY
No
matter what kind of
driving a carpool, a
course,
do, whether
is
band
is
it
involves running an office or
a necessity.
and be of a simple design so that
A leather or plain gold

enough
work you
good watch
most adaptable to
to be able to afford a Rolex or
It
should run accurately, of
works with
it
all
looks.
all
If
of
your
something similar, enjoy
it!
jeweled watches, ones with diamond trim, for example, are best
you through most
evening, a dark leather
band
Some women
many pairs to
feel
naked without
give
you
that finished feeling.
in pearls, or a
combination of pearls and gold
your Capsule.
will
will take
earrings.
know
for
do. But you don't need
one in gold, and one

should give you flexibility for
Two
pairs
button, ball, or shell design, or a simple twist or small
well from morning to evening.
While
left
of the day.
go with your working wardrobe. These are the kinds of
work
clothes.
you're fortunate
hoop
styles too, that will
Working Wardrobe
On
81
a similar scale,
open
collars or plain necklines
Either a simple gold chain or pearls will usually
very delicate, or
if it is
Some women
pearls.
a heavier rope design,
it
do
sometimes need a
the trick.
filler.
The chain can be
can look great mixed with your
use pearls as their signature. Millicent Fenwick wears the
same ones every day and evening. They're
her. Esquire
magazine once did an
on what distinguished "really rich" girls. The giveaways were cashmere

sweaters and a single strand of pearls! Whether or not the pearls are real, the
article
look
is
indeed rich. Another jewelry item that helps soften your look and adds
dimension to your dressing

link style,
you need
is all
is
a bracelet.
One
classic design, like a
bangle or
for the foundation.
THE BASIC ACCESSORY WARDROBE

What's been discussed so
far are the
very basics, the essential accessories.
you're just beginning a working wardrobe, or putting together a

these are the essential accessories you'll need:
one briefcase
rings,
(if
two
new
If
Capsule,
pairs of shoes, one handbag,
needed), two belts, three scarves, a watch, two pairs of ear-
two simple necklaces, and a
bracelet. For
your evening Capsule, include
may want
one pair of evening shoes and one evening bag. You
to splurge
on
one smashing pair of evening earrings and one great necklace too.
But what about the extras, the excitement?
Herman
my
Geist,
some
of
my
favorite styles never sold well at
of the firm,
icing
think
on
and one day
designed sportswear for
all.
some
of
This didn't seem to bother the owners
asked why. "Janet," one answered, "you design the

they ooh and aah. They
Then when they go home and write up
and what they know they can sell. They
a very exciting collection.
their orders, they
may buy
When buyers come to our showroom
the cake.
we have
When
designs sold in the tens of thousands. But
just a
buy what
is
basic
few of your favorites because they won't
sell
as fast. But
The
without them
we would have
a very dull line." In the
needs the basics in their wardrobe. That's what

That's part of the Capsule Concept.
same way, everyone
we wear day
Then comes
the icing
in
and day out.
on the cake.
The following accessory charts are included to suggest how

accessories work with the Capsules detailed in Chapter 1. Like
charts, they can
preferences.
be used exactly as shown, or modified to
suit
the essential
the clothing
your needs and
Black/Red Capsule
Red
Pumps,
Shoes
slingback
Handbag
Envelope
Briefcase
Portfolio
Belts
Narrow
Scarves*
Oblong
Gold expandable
Square
Multi-stripe oblong
Watch
Gold
Earrings
pearl button
Gold button,
Necklace
Gold chain,
rope of pearls
Gold bangle
Bracelet
Brown/Gray Capsule
Navy/Wine Capsule
Navy-
Pumps
Shoes
Pumps
Handbag
Envelope
Briefcase
Portfolio
Belts
Wide
Scarves*
Oblong
Watch
Navy/wine
print,
paisley
mustard oblong
Leather band
Gold
Earrings
ball, pearl
button with gold trim
Necklace
Bracelet
Gold chain,
rope of pearls
Gold bangle
"See illustrations on ways
Ivory/Tan Capsule
Forest /Ginger Capsule

The
86
REAL PEOPLE
Accessories can
this
show
artistry in
mark
fashion techniques that
Whether you enjoy wearing

barest
minimum,
individualize
these
woman
with
style.
lots of accessories
women
women profiled in
woman needs to the
your wardrobe. The two
chapter take you from the essential elements that every
new
offer
or would rather stay with the
on how
ideas
and
to dramatize
your wardrobe.
Mona Shaker
Mona
Shaker combines Middle Eastern mystique with Western practicality.
She
a professor of English
is
Egyptian, but her style
is
and the wife
international.
of a diplomat.
With her
jet
Her nationality
is
black hair, olive skin, high
cheekbones and flashing brown eyes, she exudes drama.
"I feel
clothing
is
art,"
she told me.
She talked about some of her wearable

walls.
It's
art. "I
have one bolero that hangs on
from old Russia, a wedding present from
my
wine velvet embroidered with gold thread. Wearing

she
makes
skirt
it
the focal point of an outfit.
"I
use
it
mother.
this
is
my
made
of
with her clothes,
with a black
and a very simple white blouse. The whole focus
It's
silk
or satin
that very interest-
ing bolero."
Treating
all
of her jewelry as art as well,
Mona
is
continuously creating
new
looks from the pieces she has. She gets her ideas from magazines or by looking
at the real thing.
all,"
But then she must have quite a collection of jewelry? "Not
she promises.
don't
with." For her, basics
buy a
means
lot,
pearls
but
have a few basics that
and gold chains. "Whether
at
play around
they're pearls or
Working Wardrobe
gold,
87
make them
into chokers.
find that suits me.
Then
hang a pin from the
choker. This makes for a very dramatic look." Fortunate to have done a good
deal of traveling, she has
Most
she's been.
made
it
a point to pick
up one or two pieces wherever
them are of semi-precious
of
Whether
stones.
Turkish piece, or one that's an antique from India, she hangs
"Gold chains are
my
basic element," she said.
it
on a
it's
an old
thin chain.
Along with her necklaces, Mona
wears earrings, but makes sure these aren't too elaborate.
The other accent Mona uses
drama
lavenders.
want
a note of
and
stripe,
life,
in the winter,
she adds color, texture, and
it
neck or
is
the size
at the side,
have a
on a
St.
belts," she told
lot of
dark colors, and
it
dresses
Though
belts.
She has found that the
of the outfit."
most adaptable
to her needs.
up a
shirt
can go to a luncheon or a meeting and
She also has fun with

splurge
when
whole look
that changes the
at the
special.
and
take a scarf in a brilliant color, a bold check or strong
very long oblong scarf
bow
With
don't go for pale tones. She uses those hot colors to brighten up her
wardrobe. "Especially
I
the scarf.
is
to her clothes. "I like shooting shades," she said, "like purples
feel
and
"With a great big
skirt
and makes
it
dressed up."
she can't afford designer clothes, she can
Laurent sash or cummerbund. "You can compose a
me. So she uses them
lot
around
to set off a bolero, or pull in a chemise,
or frame a skirt.
Dressing in strong colors, with dramatic accents takes a

the
first
to admit
confides, "as
if I
it.
"If
don't
I'm not comfortable in clothes
want
to
several times before she buys,

aren't
"is
exactly right.
little
I
doing, and she's
shrink in them," she
show." She shops carefully, trying things on
and always ready
to turn
"The most important thing
knowing what looks good on me.
I've trained
I've
them down
if
they
learned," she says,
myself to say no." But once
The
88
she gets
it
home, she doesn't
stop. Instead, she has dress rehearsals, trying
jewelry, scarves, belts, shoes
and handbags, seeing what's best
"That way," she goes on,
find
ment
"I
it
always looks
for myself in every field," she says, "be
people or dressing. There
Mona
is
it
better.
on
for a total outfit.
feel there is
improve-
teaching, entertaining, meeting
always something new to learn."
Shaker: Working Capsule
Colors Beige/Black. Red/Navy.

Fabrics
Silks.
Accessories
Linens. Egyptian cottons.
One of a
kind. Semi-precious stones. Chokers. Chains. Centerpieces. Small

on one finger. Boleros. Cummerbunds. Scarves in long oblongs to
be tied, sashed or bowed.
earrings. Rings
Style Clothing as
art. International.
Key words Drama. Color.
Details.
Working Wardrobe
Dot Roberts
Small, slim, gray-haired, and perennially tanned,
woman who
Dot Roberts
an energetic
is
keeps herself and her business in great shape. She goes mountain
climbing for pleasure, but she climbed a bigger mountain

died just a few years ago. She
was
really
when
her husband
shaken when her partner
and marriage passed away. 'The most important thing
in business
in life is the ability to
change," she told me. So instead of letting herself and the business
president of Echo Scarfs, she set out to
With a consuming business and a

well-organized.
a
good
their
suit
Her approach
And
person.
it
make
life filled
to dressing
company
her
slip,
as the
bigger and better.
with constant travel, Dot's got to be
shows
works well because
She wears mostly
it.
travel so
suits,
"I'm
much." She changes
look with different blouses, which become her mainstay.
"I
think silk
blouses are the most useful thing in your wardrobe," she told me. "You can
wear them
all
But for Dot,

clothes
year long, they go with.every thing, and they always look right."
it's
the accessories that
around because
when
before what I'm going to wear. But

the scarf, the pantyhose, the shoes
faster,
and
groups.
"I
by
their clothing into clean
have
the difference. "I don't change
my
whole
closet
get
up
the bag."
she has organized her clothing
beyond sorting
in
make
my
of the time element," she says. "I never decide the night
color.
and
in the
morning,
To make
it
all
have
work
to get
better
While some people never
and
get
Dot has everything arranged
dirty,
by color and
style," she explains, "with
blouses on one side and skirts and jackets on the other, and everything going in
tones.
They hang
in the beiges, the
browns, the grays, and black.
Naturally, she's got her accessories organized too. She keeps her shoes and
handbags
all
headache.
"I
lined
up by
have a
color. But
lot of
it's
her pantyhose that used to be the biggest
pantyhose, and
now
have them by
color, too.
90
The
have black, brown, gray, taupe, and wine, and then

sheer and opaque. That
way
she makes her fashion point.
don't waste
"And
any time."
Essentia] Accessories
I've separated
It's
them
into
with her scarves that
can add color, pattern, or a new fashion
look with them too." Just back from a four day
trip to
Canada, she
said, "I
much with me, but I was able to keep changing the look of my
clothes. Some of the people I was with were always the same, but we were
meeting new people all the time at lunches and dinners, and I had to get differdidn't take
ent looks.
brought two basic
outfits of a skirt
and
jacket, in black
and
beige, a
couple of blouses and sweaters, two pairs of shoes, one bag for day and one for
evening, and eight scarves. With those scarves
cowboy look
clothes
She
to
an ascot, from a
back and
may
be
in
forth,
Canada,
and used
bow
my
Paris, Milan,
could do everything from a
to a pocket handkerchief.
worked
the
scarves as accents to create the fashion."
Hong Kong, Tokyo,
or the U.S., and she
gets her inspirations everywhere. "I love to look at people," she said. 'That's
how you
get
new
ideas
and learn what looks best on you.
With clothes being such an investment, people should plan

fully,
and buy things
that can
go from season
dynamo, 'The most important thing

your own
style.
Then you can
get
is
to get
to season."
their
Says
wardrobe care-
this clear
headed
your clothes organized and know
on with the business of
life."
Working Wardrobe
Dot Roberts: Working Capsule

Colors-
Chapter 3
THE IMAGE
OF SUCCESS
A or
move toward
the
businesswoman
working uniform. The
quickest signal of executive status.

the female secretary
tell
their
in
well be a
is
the
How does the management male distinguish

is
the easiest
the corporate uniform identifies the
own. But,
stereotype of the Girl in the
may
for the corporate world,
from the female executive? Clothing
them apart. Dressing
manager as one of
in the '80s, there
suit,
in
no way must she mimic
Gray Flannel
Suit
is
an
insult to
way
to
woman
man. The
women.
A woman
can look competent and professional without sacrificing her femininity.
an executive recruiter
who
Trisha Parson
is
their uniform.
But she stresses the importance of also looking feminine. For her
the suit distinguishes the
on
woman comes
woman
often advises her clients to slip on
with a job from the career
with jewelry, hair, and
makeup done
woman. The
just right.
stress
The Image
WHAT YOUR CLOTHING
SAYS ABOUT YOU
Clothing acts as a cue for those around us.
and remember. Knowing how

role
you want
There are
are others
It
image held by acquaintances and
reinforces the
to play
of Success
helps strangers identify us, and

friends.
It's
what people see
to use clothing to establish yourself in
first
whatever
can help win that role more quickly.
many women who are not sure of what role they want
who intentionally wear the wrong costume, and send
to play.
There
out the
wrong
message, afraid that dressing well might detract from their intellectual profile.
One male
senior partner in a law firm told
me
about a young
woman who had
entered the firm with high marks from law school and a brilliant future ahead
The only problem was
of her.
clients.
"We were
so badly.
We
that
couldn't
let
"she's
If
in the firm
"We wanted
any of our
young woman, some very good

of dress.
no one
desperate," he said.
clients
wanted
to
to introduce her to
keep her but she dressed
meet her." Fortunately for
friends took her aside
and taught her the
this
rules
Her appearance improved markedly, and says the senior partner,
now on
the suit
is
her
the
fields, there are
way
to
becoming a partner
herself."
symbol of the corporate woman, for other
other such signals. In retailing, the hierarchy
women
is
in other
established not
only by the price of one's clothes, but by the "forwardness" of their design.
While young
assistants
may wear
clothes
by
Liz Claiborne
and Jones, the
buyers they work for dress in Calvin Klein. The upper management
may show
their fashion
Missoni or Armani.
And
establishment Yves
St.
savvy by wearing such
the top echelon executives will
Laurent, Chloe, and Dior.
women
Italian designer clothes as
buy
the French fashion
Working Wardrobe
Women
95
in public life face
an even greater problem. Their image can become a
target for public scorn or envy. Certainly they
attack
by
the press
understanding of what
total
do not wish
to be
under constant
or perhaps even worse, totally ignored. They must have a

suits
them
best, plus
an eye for
detail,
they are to
if
maintain that unmistakable aura of self-confidence and public presence.
Our
not
clothing immediately establishes us in
we
are aware of
The
it.
some
whether or
sort of social order,
bright business school graduate
who went
to inter-
view for a banking position was told that her record was excellent but she
obviously did not want a job in that
at herself in the mirror.
field.
home and looked
Shocked, she went
Only then did she
realize the
kind of message she was
sending out. She had dressed for the interview in the type of outfit she often
wore, a
full
printed dirndl skirt and a soft peasant blouse.
bank had suggested she might be more

she hadn't really
fact,
wanted a job
in
at
home
banking and
ble position with a graphic arts firm in Texas.
her clothes without even knowing
If
you know what
The
role
you want
who wants to be
the women above
secretary
dressing like
to play,
wants
is
she
now
was
telling
if
own
wants
through
herself
about
herself.
to get the part.
her rather than those around her.
woman who
arts. In
holds a very responsi-
you can use clothing
if
she starts
The upper
(provided, of course, that she's

to be the
chairman
she looks like a leader.
to establish herself as financially well-off
used to wealth.
stranger from the
an executive will get there faster
better chance of getting the position
she
The
journalism or the
She had revealed
how much
echelon will identify her as one of their
capable of the work). The
in
will
have a
The woman who
can send out signals that say
The Image
96
When
Linda Silverman
made
a conscious decision to climb the corporate lad-
der, she resolved never again to
up
of Success
wear pants
to
work. "When you're trying
to get
when everybody has the

be recognized, a lot is the way you
the corporate ladder/' she told me, "there's a point
same background. When you want

project yourself.
You have
Until that time she
to
to play the part before
had dressed casually
often wearing a pair of corduroy pants

dressing for
many
of the secretaries
tion house. "I looked at the other
who was on top.

of who held what
felt
the
or sweater. That
was
typical
Madison Avenue aucat the
wore pants. You could
one
woman
really get a feeling
by what they wore."

jeans,
and
started
buying clothes that
expensive. Wearing well-made jackets and skirts in fine wools
and blouses and dresses
above
shirt
assistants at the
women around me and
So she put aside the corduroy pants and

looked and
get it."
her job as a secretary at Sotheby's,
and a
and
realized she never
job
in
you
crowd.
It
in elegant silks
immediately established her as a cut
also indicated her appreciation of
good
things.
Now,
as
head of Sotheby's contemporary department, she finds her seasonless clothes
move
easily not just
from one climate
as well as for dinners, openings,
to another, but look great during the
day
and receptions.
With a Capsule based on blues and greens, she chooses clothing that is soft
rather than hard tailored, and prefers a look that is conservative. Speaking
about her image, she says,
can't
"I
think
you represent yourself as
well as your firm.
go around talking about millions of dollars worth of paintings
have a look that says quality, and
at the
same
time,
is
if I
don't
always feminine."
97
Working Wardrobe
Clothing can signify class status, political identification, profession and rank.
As Barbara
Dickstein,
anything else
person.
No
symbol
of
The
tion."
the
for
clothing
museum
collector of twentieth century
and
specialist
Smithsonian Institution told me,
matter what the
who you
a
a
role in
life,
your
sign of nobility in seventeenth-century France
was
the use of velvet.
are.
It tells
your
status,
your
Peasants and others of the lower class were not permitted to wear
before, in
more than
"Clothing,
more than jewelry clothing represents

time frame, she went on, "clothing is always
more than furniture,
Germany, during
social posi-
it.
A century
one of the demands was to be
a peasant uprising,
allowed to wear the color red, until then permissible only for the upper
classes.
Royal blue and purple were the colors of the court throughout much of Europe.
Only
the nobility could be seen in them.
In China, the blue cotton pant suit
Nancy
some
of
Kissinger told
me when
the
symbol of the revolution. But as
pretty clothes, a pretty blouse cr earrings."
them are now wearing more
Like
became
many women,
to adapt local
women were just dying for

And in fact, more and more
she was there, 'The
colorful
and more feminine
the wife of the former Secretary of State
way
customs to her
of dress. But
on one
trip
clothes.
was
it
often tempted
backfired.
going out one night in China, in slacks, and Henry was very upset."
"You are an American," Dr. Kissinger
would
told his wife. "If
"I
you were home, you
dress for an official dinner in a long skirt or something like that.
wouldn't go around
in pants."
was
Why?
You
But defending herself, Nancy insisted that she
might indeed wear velvet slacks. But the
man who broke new ground
with the
Chinese persisted. "You are representing the female portion of the United
States," he said.
strange picture.
pyjama
realize
suit?
how
"You should look
"How would
You'd think
I'd
it
like a
gone crazy."
And
it
important the symbolism of dressing
around the world, she wears clothing made
way
westerner."
look," he asked,
"if I
was
is.
And
then he drew a
suddenly went out
that
And
in t
image that made her

in fact, in her travels
only by American designers as a
of signaling her belief in the creativity of the
American fashion industry.
98
The Image
of Success
THREE DECADES OF FASHION

If
the distinctions in clothing
still
there.
The
and
ment. The significance of what

trace the
major trends of the
signals being sent out
women
we wear can be
in suburbia,
the
seen easily
last thirty years. In
about what was happening
for
many
decade, husbands and wives were
was
obvious today, the symbols are
if
we go back and
each decade there were clear

in society in general
and
for
in particular.
The 1950s represented
home
class are less
subtle differences are needed to send messages of social align-
Man
a return to normalcy. For the
home
first
and facing the happy prospect of prosperity. The
in the
Gray
time in a
together, raising 3.2 children, buying a

role
model
Flannel Suit. For the mainstream of America, the bulk
of the middle class, success in the business
world was a
vitally
important
message to be sent out. Certain items of clothing became the acknowledged
mark of that success. For women, the status symbol was the good leather handbag. The woman who could afford an alligator pocketbook and shoes was the
walking symbol of her husband's achievements. Other luxury items took on
this
importance, namely the cashmere sweater, especially one with a mink
collar. After the years of deprivation
brought about by World
items were a sure sign of social and financial success.

his wife a
mink
stole
had obviously "made
it".
And
War
II,
luxury
The man who could buy
the
woman who had
all
of
these trappings, the alligator bag, the fine leather shoes, the cashmere sweaters
and
the
mink wraps was
the
woman who had done
well in
life.
new female identity, the "career"

woman. Many women had begun working during the war years and found that
they liked it. They enjoyed their financial independence and their personal
sense of identification. For these women, sportswear became a new symbol of
freedom. Here was an opportunity to put together a number of looks. For the
This same period also witnessed the birth of a
Working Wardrobe
first
99
time, clothes did not
Barbara Dickstein, "People

part of suits, finishing
have
like
them with
little
in
one and only one way. Said
started
making
skirts that weren't
notched details that became
their
Campbell designed separates for Sportwhirl, and Tina Lesser
signature. Jeanne
and B.H. Wragge were big names."

naling that they
worn
to be
Evan Picone
wanted
dressing. Fashion
to be free
Women who
wore
from the past and
was acknowledging
this attitude
these clothes were sigits
restrictive nature of
and providing a means
of
expression.
took a whole other turn. The beginning of the decade was
In the 1960s clothing
marked by fireworks
name
quoises,
to
of color
from a suddenly
social Italian
nobleman by the
of Emilio Pucci. His dazzling prints in swirls of shocking pinks, deep tur-
buy
dresses,
and passionate purples sent
women from
every social strata scurrying
The count could never have signed so many

but they were worn by just about every woman who wanted to show
their signature Puccis.
her fashion savvy and social status. Obviously, those
Pucci were part of the "upper class", and for the
who
could afford a real
rest, the better
the copy, the
higher one's social rank.
But as the war in Vietnam took on more importance,
show not wealth but

more important than
said Mrs. Dickstein.
it
became necessary
rather political leanings. "Clearly, clothing
in the Sixties
"You
when
it
was used
identified yourself
and
to
was never
as part of the revolution,"
who you
belonged to by the
The Image
100
way you
dressed.
The uniform
of the
you were on,"
question what side
war was
tie-dyes
and
jeans.
of Success
There was no
she explained. For the liberals, tie-dyes and
jeans were their signal of sympathy, not only to the anti-war effort but also to
"the cause" whether
so
many
the art collectors
came
was mistreated Indians or underpaid grape pickers. But
it
how
people wore jeans,
in the
from the grape pickers?
form of
The upper
T-shirt, jeans,
and
crust liberal
a blazer
distinction
still
could afford handbags
became easy
with
to recognize.
Under
the
made by
Louis
Her uniform was a
all,
a plain T-shirt left
bare.
the T-shirt lay the next stage of clothing symbols.
became
many
little
It
Gucci shoes and a Louis Vuitton bag. She
might even throw a Gucci scarf around her neck. After
one feeling a
needed to be made.
Everyone could afford Levis, but only a few
status initials.
could buy shoes from Gucci. Fewer

Vuitton.
if
could one identify the patrons from the poor,
dilemma
of
forms, but none
women
was so
in the Sixties.
clear as the
Women's
symbolism of
To
bra or not to bra
liberation could take

this piece of clothing.
Bra burning became a major event around the country, and from coast to coast
women bounced
about eager to show
their alliance
with the women's move-
ment. For some that was as far as their commitment to liberation went. But for
all it
was
a significant
way
of saying that they
would no longer be bound by
the
old rules.
While the bras were burning, the status
had come
to a point
vendors on every
ties
initials
were losing
their exclusivity.
It
where cheap copies were being hawked by sidewalk
street corner.
Something new was needed. In the early Seven-
the designers arrived. Suddenly, big stores started opening designer shops,
carrying Calvin Klein and
wear
that
was
Anne
Klein,
attractive, expensive
and others smart enough
and
to
identifiable. Bill Blass
make
sports-
and Geoffrey
Beene got the message too, and opened new divisions called respectively,
Blassport
and Beene Bag.
It
was
similar to the French going
from couture
to
Working Wardrobe
101
ready-to-wear. American designers went from dressing the ladies

clothing the career
woman.
The women who had been
whole new vehicle for
liberated in the Sixties
successful career in the Seventies.
designer clothes. Those

their
They could
who had made
it
status
now
who
lunch to
symbols arrived.
turned their eyes on a
signal their success
by wearing
could afford to spend big sums on
working wardrobes.
The Seventies ended with
the
mushrooming
fragrance.
Or
one's cosmetics.
signature of a designer
the one
for the cult of the designer. But
Many
They could be on
Or one's bed linens. Or on
became
on
the
one's behind.
back of a pair of
jeans.
one's
The
last
So much
what next?
people see jewelry as the next status symbol. Barbara Dickstein pointed
out a recent cartoon showing a mother observing her daughter in a

jeans. "Darling," asks the mother, "don't
jewelry so people don't get the
wrong
shirt
now. One woman,
idea?".
Elsa Peretti, has already
most important people
in twentieth
with a very contemporary
The Fashion magazines have been

become
Belts
may
be
established as one of the
century jewelry, working in the
flair.
and
you think you should wear some gold
doing feature spreads on up and coming jewelry designers. Their time
silver,
No
of designer merchandise.
longer did the labels appear only on expensive clothing.
medium
of
by Barry Kieselstein-Cord, made
with buckles of sculptured silver or bronze, are already an important status
symbol. Paloma Picasso, daughter of

jewelry for Tiffany's.
this century's
famous
artist, is
designing
The Image
102
of Success
THE PROBLEM
Anne
P.
wore
dresses.
work.
When
had grown up
and she enjoyed wearing dresses
similar,
to
New
The women who
her firm promoted her and sent her to their main office in
York, she found herself
worked with her dressed

a certain
women
southern town where most of the
in a small
Her wardrobe was
amount
in a
in
very different atmosphere.
much more
tailored clothes,
and they eyed her with
of distrust. In order to establish her
authority, she found that she
had
to
change her
way
own
credibility
and
of dressing.
THE SOLUTION
Most
of the dresses
in pastel colors.
colors,
Anne had worn
We found
and we could
around navy and
still
stronger look
when wearing darker
To
tan, she selected variations of the shirtdress.

silk,
tan geometric print. She already

of these dresses as well as
a tan and white striped
silk,
had a navy cardigan jacket
start,
Anne
and a navy and
that could
go over
one or two she had from the south. Later on she
added a navy and white checked

tan jacket
much
keep her Capsule to dresses as she preferred. Working
bought three dresses, a navy
any
south were in floral prints and often
in the
she had a
dress.
which came with the new
With
dress.
all
Anne
of these she could also

still
could
feel
wear a
comfortable
in
her dresses, but she established an air of authority and assertiveness. Her in-
vestment
in dressing
came
to $320.
Navy/Tan Dress Capsule

Navy
A.
Jacket
B.
Jacket
Dress
D.
Dress
E.
Dress
F.
Dress
Small print
Shirtdress
Accessories
Shoes
Navy Tan
Accents
Will
work with
The Image
of Success
THE PROBLEM
Carolyn G. was a teacher
ings,
who had spoken
and had become involved
found
herself being
promoted
out at several school board meet-
in local political issues.
After two years, she
as a candidate for the state assembly.
The
idea
appealed to her and she decided to actively campaign. But her classroom
clothes
were more appropriate for the after-school program than for
dinner speeches. She had very
little
money
to spend, but
after-
needed clothes that
would upgrade her image. Her opponent, a very rich businessman, had an attractive wife whose good looks and pretty clothes often drew the cameras.
Somehow Carolyn had to get the focus of attention on herself but still remain a
serious candidate.
THE SOLUTION
Carolyn was most comfortable
in skirts
and
jackets.
Capsule based on navy and red. She bought two

red. Either jacket could
go with
one navy, and the other two
were the four
silk
red, yellow, green
either skirt.
in white.
suits,
We
worked out
one
in
Then she
But what
made
a small
navy, the other
in
selected three blouses,
her wardrobe
come
to life
scarves she bought, each in a very bright color. She chose
and purple, and wore a
campaigning. The hot colors worn
different
at her neck,
one each time she went out
caught the attention of her
audience, and at the same time, her jacket and skirt gave her the serious, sincere
image she wanted.
Navy/Red Image Capsule

Navy
A.
Jacket
B.
Jacket
Red
Will
work with
Both jackets
make suit with

Navy jacket
will
Skirt
Both lackets
D.
Dress
E.
Blouse
F.
Dress
G.
Blouse
will
Accessories
Shoes
make
Red jacket
suit
with
The Image
106
of Success
THE CAPSULE APPROACH TO SUCCESSFUL DRESSING
Women need not resign
themselves to the idea of bland uniform dressing. With
not only jewelry, but scarves, belts, handbags and shoes, a suit or dress can
take
on
different looks
and moods.
quote from investment banker,
No woman
should lose her femininity.
Mary DiGiacomo,
"Femininity
is
my
To
greatest
asset."
how you put yourself

The Capsule Concept can help enormously because it creates an
organized wardrobe for you. With quality clothing and accessories, you don't
To
look feminine and successful you must be aware of
together.
need a
lot of
items in your closet to look successful. Using just two colors and
pieces that interrelate, dressing can be almost effortless yet bring
compliments. With the Capsule approach you will be dressing
manner and sending out a
To
see just
page.
how
you
lots of
in a professional
signal of self-assurance.
strong your signal
is,
take the Image Quiz on the following
Image
Profile
The Image
qo
of Success
REAL PEOPLE
As
how
cult
most
their careers climb,
upgrading
it
to
meet that of
women
their
new
find a need to change their image,
The women
peers.
they have developed their image. For them
problem. They are
Both of these
important
to study themselves
best. In this chapter
successful image,
diffi-
in the public eye.
women know how
have taken the time
them
women
chapter discuss
in this
has been a particularly
it
it is
to project the right image,
and learn what kinds
and
of clothing suit
each of them talks about what goes into achieving a
one that pleases them and the public too.
Nancy Reagan
Nancy Reagan may have played the role of the girl next door in the movies, but
she's always made sure that that isn't really her image. You never would have
seen her running next door in her bathrobe to borrow a cup of sugar. "Even
then," she told me, her eyes opening wide, "they didn't want you to come out
with curlers
in
daughter of an
aura of
your
money and
the direction of the
who
sets the
Not
hair."
Illinois
class.
And
if
would have anyway. As
drama student
one were to suggest that her
movie moguls
at
MGM,
the debutante
at Smith, she lived in
style
an
came from
she takes offense. "You're the one
tone for yourself," she says, "nobody else does."
With her contained manner,

large wide-set eyes, she
she wore a
that she
doctor, and as a
fits
gray and brown
regal bearing, size six figure, high
right into the role of First
paisley blouse, a gray
cheekbones and
Lady. The day
wool
we
talked
dirndl skirt, simple gold
button earrings, a gold link bracelet on each arm, and a gold necklace. Her
hair, softly streaked in
makeup was
faint,
shades of honey and gold, was perfectly in place. Her
with
just
understated, well groomed, and
a touch of lipstick.
all in
good
taste.
Her
overall
look was
Working Wardrobe
She
feels that
109
woman
any
can develop good taste and a distinctive
rounded by Beverly
Hills luxury or
style.
woman who isn't

Madison Avenue chic? "Any woman
'That's just exposure," she told me. But
what about
the
sursees
magazines and goes to movies," she maintained, and those are

be observant. Like
what
is
new, what
Then she adapts
What
women
all
is
attractive,
to her
it
own
just two ways to

Nancy Reagan keeps her eyes alert for
and what is happening in the fashion world.
of style,
personal look.
sort of advice does the First
Lady have for
out or having trouble finding her
own
"Get a three-way mirror and look
at yourself
"if in
doubt whether
it's
the
woman who is just starting
look? With great conviction she
too much, take
it
from
all
sides."
tell
her not to follow fads.
or the latest fashion gimmick

in her voice, she
kill
me
make
woman who
may be, she adds, "I
who are slaves to fashion
think that people

a big mistake."
it
With an edge
of indignation
goes on, "During the miniskirt phase, in the 1960s,
women
to see older
in miniskirts.
states,
for accessories,
off," she says. For the
tends to follow every fashion trend, no matter what
would
As
It
it
used to
looked ridiculous." With the
just
confidence that comes from success, she says, "There's a certain charm and
beauty to any age
if
One would assume

endless
amounts of
you
dress that age."
that style
comes
clothing. But
better. "I don't like a lot of frills
easily to a
Nancy Reagan
and
woman who
has seemingly
suggests that she feels less
fusses," she told
me. "Anything
is
that's
simple works for me."

If
Nancy Reagan always looks
things nice
a lot of
and simple. "I'm
makeup."
In the
husband, she found that
well groomed, she claims
really basically a
days when she traveled a

it
it's
because she keeps
soap-and-water
lot,
girl.
don't
wear
campaigning for her
helped to keep things pared down. "Everything's a
problem for you during the campaign, because
there's not
enough
time.
You
The Image
110
were lucky
if
you could get back
to
wash your
of Success
face," she says shaking her head.
For her the solution lay in a working wardrobe of knits. 'The knit suits were so
marvelous," she exclaimed, "because they didn't wrinkle.

with them.
never had to bother
could put them on early in the morning and go
When Nancy Reagan
adds to her wardrobe,
it's
all
day and night."
always with a thought to the
clothes hanging in her closet. "I
am
not one
beginning of a season and starts
all
over again. And," she adds,
anyone can afford
to."
Her wardrobe
things a long time." she revealed.
is
who
"I
a mix of old and new.
my
have
"I
throws everything out
"I
hang onto
gown
second inaugural
Sacramento, and that goes back a long way. In fact," she continued,
still
even have
How
mix
my
first
one
if
they hadn't torn
does she manage to update outfits that
my
it
off
my
"I'll
the
when
the old favorites
new? 'That's when you
no longer look
right
skirt
confesses, "I'm not crazy about shopping.
my friends do,
shop
all
day and stand
with
there a
even when they're mixed with
all
like clothes
day
like
but
for fittings.
many women
can't
don't
want
do what a
she
lot
That would be very
boring." Her approach to shopping reflects her general attitude.
want pretty quickly, and
Is
get rid of them," she says adamantly.
Although Nancy Reagan has always enjoyed clothes,
of
in
might
five or six years? "I
mix an Adolf o
another blouse or jacket, switch things around with different outfits."

point
"I
back."
may go back
clothes around," she says proudly.
at the
don't think
to waste a lot of time."
"I
know what
Working Wardrobe
111
Whatever she purchases
own
image.
As
rage, she laughs
own
for herself,
to the notion of other
and
Nancy Reagan makes
women
says, "I'd be flattered. But
particular style, what's
good
for you,
sure that
it
adopting her look because

I
think
and go with
you have
Fabrics
is
that."
her favorite, day or night. Also likes black and white for evening.
Wools,
silks.
Lots of knits.
Accessories Always simple: earrings, bracelet, necklace.
Style Understated. Classic
Key words Elegant.
clothes. Distinctly feminine.
Tasteful.
it's
to find
Nancy Reagan: Image Capsule

Colors Red
fits
her
the
your
The Image
112
of Success
Maureen Kindel
Maureen Kindel sends out
the
woman
first
work with
It isn't
her.
Los Angeles to hold
this job," she told
am
"I
me. So
Board of Public Works had her photograph taken wearing
the President of the

a hard hat.
a strong message in her picture at City Hall.
in the history of
an image that most people
She
is
on the boards of
also
foundations from California to
New York
like, particularly the
civic organizations
men who
and private
and Washington, D.C. For
her, the
trappings of achievement are as important as the accomplishments themselves
because they relay her status to the
What
good jewelry," she says
are the trappings? "Wearing
tant." For her jewelry
power,
that's
where a
is
rest of society.
an investment
woman
symbol of money, and money
in her
between an expensive designer

for the latter. "Find a
front of
money on
good
like a
is
on
the
how one
what our
their
same
translates
feels
and a piece of good jewelry, she
it is
tool, "It
is
extremely important for
If
to."
Even
justified. "It is a
you
me
to
power," says Maureen. "Achievement and power are
up
In fact, she says, because of the
buy."
right out in
wives of the other board members." That, to me,
if
the
mink coat takes
matter of priorities.
back because that promotes them. They should not
terrific
it
quick flash of success.
level as the
society looks
come, she
suit
a tiger's eye or other semi-precious necklace." She
She sees fur as an excellent signaling

dress
is
facsimile of the suit," she suggests, "and
buying good handbags, because "you can put
somebody,"
impor-
symbol of success and achievement." Given
the choice
also believes in
"is terribly
future. "I think in terms of
should spend her money. Because jewelry

is
would opt
use the remaining
own
power
can't afford
good
feel guilty
of that message, "I think a
mink, pick a
less
bite of her in-
Women must put
expensive
it
on
about that."
mink coat
is
fur, she suggests,
Working Wardrobe
113
but definitely pick a fur. At the same time, she
when
it is
Out
appropriate.
and only she knows that
it
in the field she

is
is
careful to
more
is
wear her coat only
likely to
wear a
raincoat,
lined with fur.
This hard hat commissioner takes her femininity very seriously. She dresses in
rather
soft,
than
my
dress,
my
tailored
strictly
luxurious fabrics.
"I
want
to
clothes,
never wears pants, and loves
remind people that
demeanor, and by
my
am
feminine, continually,
actions," she says.
If
she
is
woman
by
with
strong convictions, she has found that this comes through loud and clear to
others.
"When I am in
on too strong.
It is
a group of
women,
I've
been told
a negative, this strength that
she feels she can tone
down
that image. "I
have
many
project."
times that
By dressing
come
softly
to use clothes to reinforce
my
feminine side."
How
does she dress to look soft but self-assured?
If
she wears
suits,
which she
does "because they are convenient," she says she would "always wear a very
feminine blouse and very good jewelry." Her favorite designers are not the
well-known, high-priced ones.

clothes," she concedes.
have a prejudice against very expensive
"I
The day we talked she wore
a black
and white polka dot
pleated skirt and blouse with a red cardigan sweater. This sweater look
she has
come
to enjoy even
more than
the perfect kind of outfit," she says. "I can
and when
is
wear
with
it
this skirt
it
wear the blouse with other
one
is
things,
looks like a dress." Her other favorite outfit
a "Calvin Klein black skirt, candlelight blouse,
wonderful look.
is
the typical suit jacket or blazer. 'This
think that a lot of
women
and black sweater,
will find out
what
l>'s
a great pleasure
sweaters are to wear," she says, obviously enjoying the softness in both look
and
feel.
Maureen Kindel has obviously given

sends out. "There
am
is
way
really tired of seeing
a great deal of thought to the signals she
to look elegant, classy,
women
in
and powerful," she
states. "I
gray flannel uniforms." Though she
is
the
The Image
114
first
woman
terms.
to hold her job, she
"I feel
feminine,
am
wants no one to think of her
feminine, and
want
in
of Success
masculine
to be feminine in the
most
way."
positive
Maureen Kindel: Image Capsule

Colors
Black/White with accents of Red
Fabrics
The luxury
Accessories
Only
touch: Silk, Cashmere, Fur.
the best. Precious or semi-precious stones. Expensive bags
and expen-
sive shoes.
Style Knows where
she's going
and what she wants. Uses her clothes
strengthen her success.
Key words Determined.
Successful. Feminine.
to soften her image,
Chapter 4
THE EVENING
CAPSULE
I
,f
clothes are for fantasy

after a
daytime clothes are for the serious side of
and fun.
life,
evening
A sensational evening outfit can be a great
lift
hard day at work, a chance for frivolity after the restrictions of more
tailored clothes. But
your evening clothes can also be well organized so that
again you can have flexibility in your wardrobe.
The Capsule Concept can be
easily extended into the evening.
THE EVENING LOOK WITH SEPARATES

With
just five pieces
of pants
you can
create
many
and two dressy tops can be the
Naturally, these pieces should be
looks.
A dressy jacket,
a skirt, a pair
basis of a successful evening Capsule.
worked around two compatible
colors
for
example, one capsule could be composed of burgundy and winter white.
The
focal point for after five can be
the capsule,
it
will
work with your
an evening jacket. As an
skirt
and your pants.
If
essential part of
the evening colors
The Evening Capsule
118
are related to the colors in
work with some
may
jacket
be
in
burgundy,
shape, of course, must
works
generally
your daytime capsule, your evening jacket may
of those pieces, too. In the color plan we've chosen, your

in a dressy fabric
work with
best. In this Capsule, we'll use a
Teamed with your pants
this outfit
silk,
or satin.
The
burgundy velvet cardigan.
can look very attractive, whether for din-
ner, dancing, or to a party with friends.

in silk,
such as velvet,
the other pieces; a simple cardigan style
The pants can be
in
burgundy or white,
wool, or crepe, or they can be in burgundy velvet. Although the dressier
fabrics will
have a decidedly evening look, trousers
used for day as well as night and
may
wool, of course, can be
in
be more practical for your needs. For
this
evening Capsule, we'll include trousers in white wool crepe.
On
be
other occasions,
in
any
fabric
you might wear your
from wool
you do not enjoy wearing

one
in
to
jacket with
pants,
you might choose two
burgundy velvet (which could give you a
jacket), the other in
Your
skirt.
and here
skirt
can
suit
we'll
If
your capsule,
skirts for
look with a matching
white wool, for a very different look. Either one
effective combination,
To work
your
matching velvet, winter white or burgundy.
is
a very
choose burgundy wool crepe for the
skirt.
with these pieces, you will need two dressy tops. They could be two
blouses or a sweater and a blouse. For the evening, fabrics such as
silk, satin,
or
georgette have a special appeal. While your blouse can be as tailored as a shirt,
it
can also be as romantic as a ruffled poet's blouse. For color, white or cream
will give
\
'ell
you
the greatest adaptability.
with a tweed
skirt
second top might be another blouse

very
soft,
or
more dramatic
(as for
it
ruffled white silk shirt can
can with velvet pants
perhaps more
tailored
example, one that
might prefer an evening sweater, one
trimmed
during the day as
that's
is
if
work as
Your
at night.
the
first
one
shot with lurex).
beaded, embroidered, or
is
You
glitter
Working Wardrobe
119
Another approach
to
an evening Capsule
such as copper and navy. Using pants
you can
is
in
on which
and a
strong colors,
skirt in
copper
same copper, the other
in
may want
to
Two
of
them could be
the basic founda-
totally different
silk tunics,
for a really dramatic effect.
have two very
different tops,
the other a striped sweater. For the third top,
worn with
become
one
in
navy. They can be teamed with the matching bot-
toms or worn with the opposite color

hand, you
skirt will
silk,
away
to build different looks.
Three tops can complete the picture.

the
silk
create a totally different feeling for evening, getting even further
from your daytime dressing. The pants and

tion
work around two
to
navy
On
the other
one a tunic blouse, and
you might choose something
for example, an ivory ruffled shirt or a lace blouse that can be
the pants as well as with the skirt.
The Evening Capsule
120
THE PROBLEM
Liz A.
worked
went on dates
in her office
for a large advertising agency in their

directly
office.
She often
dressed very casually during the day, mostly in pants with just a
blouse or sweater.
went out
midtown
from work, going out for drinks or dinner. The women
Many
in the evening.
of
them
not usually possible for her to go
more dressed up
lived
nearby and could change before they
But Liz lived nearly an hour away by train and
in the evening,
home
but
first
still
it
was
before a date. She wanted to look
be casual during the day.
THE SOLUTION
Liz
had several pairs
and wine trousers
wool
skirt.
We
in
of pants that she
wore
to
work, including navy trousers
wool, plus some corduroys and jeans. She also had a navy
built a
Capsule around navy and wine and decided to save the
corduroys and jeans for the week-ends. Wearing solid color blouses and low
heeled shoes she could be very comfortable in the office. But
in her
pretty silk scarves, she could dress
up her blouse and pants
look more special for her dates.
we found
that
by
desk drawer, along with one or two
keeping a pair of navy slingbacks
for the evening
and
Navy /Wine Working Capsule

Navy
A.
Jacket
B.
Pants
c.
Skirt
D.
Sweater
E.
Blouse
F.
Pants
G.
Blouse
H.
Blouse
Accessories
Shoes
Will
work with
All shirts
and
All shirts
and sweater
All pants
and
skirt
All pants
and
skirt
AJ! pants
and
skirt
The Evening Capsule
122
THE PROBLEM
Her job demanded a
work and the ability to get around to places very fast. In
fact, her working uniform was jeans, a sweatshirt and sneakers. But her
husband, who was a publicity agent, often had to entertain clients in the
Sandy
L.
worked
as a producer for a television station.
great deal of physical
evening and wanted Sandy to be with him.
Many
and
of the dinners
parties
they went to were very dressy. Sandy didn't want to spend a lot of time think-
what
ing about
time, the other
wanted
to
wear when she rushed home
women usually went
to look
good
at night to change.
At the same
to great trouble to look terrific,
too. In fact, she enjoyed dressing
and Sandy
up and looking very
feminine in the evening as opposed to her daytime jeans.
THE SOLUTION
We
planned an evening Capsule around black and white separates, with three
bottom
pieces that could get a lot of mileage. These
long black velvet
skirt,
Then she bought two
were a black
jackets,
one
in black velvet, the other a
sweater with gold lurex trim. She had four tops, a white ruffled
a black silk
silk tunic
top and a black sweater.
went from casually dressy
wardrobe.
white chenille
silk
blouse and
neck blouse which she already owned, and she bought a white
Any
with any of the bottoms. The thirty

pieces
silk skirt, a
which she already had, and a pair of black crepe pants.
six
of the tops
and
jackets could be
worn
combinations created from these nine
to formal black
tie,
a complete evening
Black/White Evening Capsule

Black
A.
Jacket
B.
Jackets
c.
Skirt
D.
Skirt
E.
Pants
F.
Blouse
G.
Blouse
H.
Blouse
I.
Sweater
White
Will
work with
All skirts
and pants
All skirts
and pants
All iackets, blouses
Accessories
Shoes
All skirts
and pants
All skirts
and pants
All skirts
and
All skirts
and pants
The Evening Capsule
124
THE DRESS-AND-JACKET LOOK

If
you
prefer dresses to separates, the Capsule
is
as workable for evening as
blue would
might
make an
select a
the dresses
it is
pick.
The
and
well.
Here
approach
for daytime. For this Capsule, black
and royal
dress
interesting combination. Beginning with the jacket,
black velvet jacket
you
Concept applies as
jacket
again, a dressy jacket can be an important item.
in
a cardigan style.
It
you
should work with any of
A black crepe dress with a simple neckline can be worn for
many
occasions from the most low-keyed dinner to the most sophisticated
party.
second dress
might be
in royal blue silk
in a shirt style or
might have a
can be equally effective. This dress
bow
neck.
A third dress in black velvet
can be deliciously dramatic.
What about mixing

and two
can be the basic components: a dress, a
tops. This time we'll
could be
in
gold
neckline.
The
may add
an evening
may
and separates for your evening Capsule?
dresses
case, again, five pieces
silk, in
skirt
brown
suit
work with brown and
a shirt style, with a
might be
in
brown
velvet.
velvet jacket that can be
look with the
skirt.
Two
The
skirt
dress
you choose
worn with the silk dress and create

worn with the skirt. One
tops can be
be a white blouse, in a dressy fabric such as
The other top could be
The
In this
a jacket,
bow neck, or just a simple jewel

To work with either of these you
silk, satin,
blouse can be in a soft, very feminine style or you

shirt style.
gold.
skirt,
a sweater
may
or georgette. This
prefer a
one in gold lurex,
more
tailored
for example.
and tops can be worn with or without the jacket for very
different
effects.
ACCESSORIZING YOUR EVENING CAPSULE

It is
accessories that often
make
the dramatic difference
between a daytime and
an evening look. The same dress worn toned down for day can look smashing
Working Wardrobe
125
when teamed with
at night
evening shoes
may
kidskin such as a
you need
the right shoes, belt, jewelry, or scarf.
know
you'll
may
it
even
slide into
tartan taffeta
innocent.
looks. Black
bow
soft
bow
As with your
office.
A glittery scarf can add

A
Scarves and belts can add dazzle to the simplest outfit.
and a
is all
your briefcase for occasions when you
be going out straight from the
a glamorous touch,
one
can be as simple as a small quilted bag with a
it
shoulder chain or as different as a hand-sized sculptured box.
daytime purse,
pair of
in a dressy
all
your Capsule, and
for
One
you need. They can be in suede, in silk or

metallic. The same applies for an evening purse
be
in bright silk
can add a dash of drama.
or a velvet ribbon tied under the collar can look beguilingly
gold belt or one in black suede can give a number of different
wool pants worn with a white
give a very tailored, understated look.
cumberbund and a
silk shirt
Team
that
and a gold
leather belt will
same
and pants with
and you have spiced
velvet jacket
shirt
it
with a flavor of
flamenco.
One
set of
evening jewelry
include the
you need
is all
same pieces you use during
bracelet, earrings,
and pearls can stay
to start off
the day.
the same. But
something special for the evening, perhaps a

fabulous
Several years ago
time, the price
some thought,
it
came
may
you might want
to
add
glittery pair of earrings or a
across a wonderful pearl necklace
seemed outrageous,
I
was.
strand after strand
end with a large rhinestone studded

sixty-five dollars for
tassle.
it
draws, reminds
me
At the
costume jewelry. After
decided to splurge. The dozens of times I've worn
and the endless compliments
really
It
your watch,
set of pearls.
of pearls, finished at either
lace,
your Capsule.
Certainly,
so often
this
neck-
what a bargain
The Evening Capsule
126
A pair of fabulous fake earrings

successful.
what
Done
in gold
from Kenneth Jay Lane proved
work with everything from
usually paid for earrings. But they
suit to a ball
The joy
gown, and
it
doesn't matter
of evening clothes
is
Sometimes one outrageous item

the basis of
versatile
that
if
and
two
distinctive.
charts,
they're real or not
you can be
and
it
and
it
a dinner
they look great.
as dramatic as
you
doesn't have to be expensive
an evening Capsule. Combine
gested in the following
to be equally
with pave rhinestones, they too cost far more than
dare.
can be
with complementary pieces, as sug-
you'll
have an evening wardrobe that
is
Burgundy /Winter White Evening Capsule

Burgundy
A.
Jacket
B.
Skirt
Winter White
Accents
Will
lackel
Pants
D.
Blouse
E.
Sweater
Accessories
Shoes
work with
blouse,
and
Evening Capsule
Black /Royal Blue
Copper/Navy Evening Capsule

Copper
A.
Skirt
B.
Pants
i*
Will
work with
Both blouses and
Both blouses and
Blouse
D.
Navy
Blouse
Sweater
Accessories
Shoes
Brown /Gold Evening Capsule
Working Wardrobe
131
REAL PEOPLE
There are
lifestyles that
daytime one. The two

sules to
work from morning
women have
Both
demand
women
as
much from an evening wardrobe
in this
from a
to night.
solid suggestions
around favorite colors and
as
chapter must juggle their clothing Cap-
on building an evening Capsule, working
selecting styles that last for a long time.
Lenore Benson
Lenore Benson travels around the country giving fashion shows and seminars
on
the latest looks. She'll
tell
you
the biggest trends, what's in, what's out,
what's coming. But as for herself, she says,

can't.
She's the
at a
me
But for
"I
don't
woman in charge of promotions for

it
and
to look outdated.
being trendy doesn't work."
Vogue, the one you're likely to see
major store giving fashion ideas and advice
Lenore makes
want
clear that
it's
style,
more than
to
anyone who wants
fashion, that
makes
it.
But
woman
attractive.
Round
plump.
teen.
and a peaches and cream complex-
faced, with ginger hair, green eyes,
Lenore has learned her
ion,
just
My
own
look, set her
always have a weight problem.
strongest assets are
my
hair, skin,
own
style. "I'm five foot six
wear a
size
and
twelve or a size four-
and eyes, so
like to use those
colors.
"In these days of

lot better
my
if
closet,
you
and
components, with
see that everything
things out easily
all
of the pieces that
stay within a color palette.

is
in the
It
makes
it
work
If I
same general color range,
and make them go together."
you do a
for you,
a lot easier.
look
in
can pull
132
The Evening Capsule
This fashion professional has
made
color her signature.
used to be
"I
a peach lady," she says, referring to her years at Mademoiselle.
introduced shades of tobacco to

in
work with
known
the peaches. Lately, she has brought
black and ivory, another combination that can use peach accents.
How does Lenore make her wardrobe work for her? With a work day
that often
extends into the night, she's got to have clothes that are versatile. The day
talked she
was making an overnight
and pleasure
at a farewell
store to another.
have time
and
shirt
She had
trip to Philadelphia,
day
move well from day
to night. This
be fine." But she also wasn't taking
return trip
home. She
it
on the other
right to
told me,
side
work. At
"I
I'll
separates from
silk
silk jacket, skirt,
when I go out to dinner my

much clothing with her for the
deliberately
wore
tomorrow morning when
least
one
wouldn't
evening
outfit will
wear
at the office, but she
combination of tobacco and peach. "This
in a
we
combining business
who was moving from
party for a good friend
to be dressed for a
change before the party. She was wearing
to
Calvin Klein
go
as
Then she
feel like I've
can
the train
and
a jacket that reverses.
come back on
got something different on." She
keeps her baggage to a minimum. As for carrying her personal things, she says,
"My makeup and jewelry and some work I have to do

woven straw bag that use as my summer briefcase."
are
all
packed
in this
In
an industry where parties are serious business, an evening wardrobe
tial.
at
"In this business there are a lot of
some
big event,
demands on you
from a cocktail party
found a solution. "In recent years
I've
to
appear
in the
is
essen-
evening
to a charity dinner." But Lenore has
been going to black
tie
functions in
simple black dresses and changing the jewelry." Black makes a striking contrast against
her pale skin, and that look has brought her
"Suddenly people started saying,
'gee,
been so pleased with the response,

too.
you
really look
she's started
buying
many
good
it
compliments.
in black.'" She's
for her
day
clothes,
Working Wardrobe
As
133
women
problem that many
for a
balance her act.
"I
says Lenore, "so
can manipulate
it,
With her simple
carry a
leather
little
clothes,
isn't
it
She finds she can
still
the other hand," she says,
But
it
isn't
"I
surprising that jewelry
ambers and
corals,
when we buy
come
That way
strap.
is
a special love.
clothes," she says.
across."
Day
Her
new
"On
black things.
good gold."
Not only because
means women have
"We must
think
of the cost but
to think
more about
or night, Lenore Benson comes across as a
woman
with good fashion sense.
Lenore Benson: Evening Capsule

Colors
Tobacco /Peach.
own
Fabrics
Silks.
Black/Cream. Stays mostly with shades that complement her

and cream skin.
coloring: red hair, green eyes, peaches
Knits.
Natural
fibers.
Lightweight fabrics that can be layered. Likes
Reversibles.
Accessories
Enjoys wearing
jewelry and collecting
Victorian pieces. Gold.
Style
Smart
but not trendy. Earthy.
Key words Style.
go with the same color
use the ambers with her
find myself investing in
also because of the effect. "Visability
they
at cocktail parties,"
only jewelry that she sees as a long term investment.
investment
how
way
bag with a shoulder
shake a hand, and hold a drink."
favorite pieces of carnelians,

palettes.
face at cocktail parties, she has learned to
think a huge handbag gets in the
Ease. Energy. Robust.
it,
especially
ambers and carnelians.
The Evening Capsule
134
Susan Samuels
When
her
Susan Samuels was
life
eons to frequent black

lot of
in Sierra
Leone as wife of the American Ambassador
involved a blending of cultures and constant entertaining, from lunchtie
dinners. 'As an ambassador's wife,
long things," she says.
to dinner
tended to wear a
she
about four nights a week, but they are not as formal.
things for a very long time," she explained "and

cut the
Now that she is back in the States,
hems
of
my
long gowns.
As Executive Producer
Now
when
came home,
to
I
keep
simply
they're perfect as dinner dresses."
for Living Theater, the national outreach
Arena Stage, one of the country's
goes out
still
"I like
company
of
oldest resident theater companies, she has
helped raise hundreds of thousands of dollars.
"We go
to everything
from
theater openings to embassy dinner parties to casual evenings with friends."
The people
are as varied as theatrical producers,
ambassadors, and
art dealers.
About seventy percent
business leaders,
of these functions call for
dressy clothes, twenty percent are definitely casual, and another ten percent are
black
tie.
Except for the occasional charity ball which requires an evening gown, Susan
works around an evening Capsule

figure, she
black lace dress by

suit
bought
Named
with a simple
I
Bill
Blass (bought
at a theatrical auction.
in Streetcar
top that
of black
silk
Desire.
blouse.
wear with
it.
It is
On
one
in
on
"The
sale at
suit
Lord
&
tiny size-four
Taylor), to a white silk
was designed
extraordinarily useful.
the other hand,
That makes
include a black silk skirt, a soft white

trousers,
and white. With her
can make great buys. In her Capsule, the pieces go from a short
it
It
for Blanche
have a plum colored halter wrap
very dressy." Her other basic pieces
silk skirt,
and two pairs of
silk
black and one in white. Several dressy sweaters
black sweater set shot with
silver,
Du Bois
down
can be toned
and a striped lurex
gabardine
including a
set in silver,
gold and
Working Wardrobe
work with the various skirts and pants.
bronze
silk
135
In addition, she also has
some
blouses for variety.
Much
of her evening
Susan says,
wardrobe can be worn
can wear
"I
my
for daytime, too. For example,
black skirt with a simple white
meeting during the day, come home, take off the
pumps and switch

for the evening."
to the sweaters
She adds, "A
silk
silk shirt for a
blouse and black leather
and dressy shoes. Then I'm ready
lot of
what
do
to
go out
based on separates for day
is
and night."
Changing her accessories
is
often the
way
she transforms an outfit from a
daytime to an evening look. "Shoes are what often change a wardrobe for even-
She has three pair of dressy pumps, one
ing," she says.
and one
in
black suede. She feels that jewelry
evening. "During the day
evening
is
usually wear just small gold
have a number of good earrings
in gold,
one
in silver,
also very important for the
to accent
hoop
earrings. But for
whatever I'm wearing.
like
rings at night, too, but never in the day."
Not too long ago Susan gave
a dinner for thirty people, including several
ambassadors, well-known journalists, and
most
of the
political leaders.
move around the kitchen, she also wanted to appear

What did she wear? "I wanted to wear pants so that
around
easily.
used
my white flannel
trousers that
daytime or evening, and dressed them up with

gold kid
off
Although she did
cooking herself and needed to be dressed comfortably enough to
pumps were
as an elegant hostess.
I
could bend and get
wear winter and summer,
my striped lurex sweater set. My
perfect to carry through the dressy look,
with gold earrings and a gold kid belt." Though,
in fact,
and
finished
it
most of the pieces
136
The Evening Capsule
could have been

special
worn during
evening look.
"I
the day,
compliments," Susan says, "and

easy,
and
felt
it
was
the gold shoes that gave her a
remember when I received so many

think it may have been because it was all so
don't
so comfortable in
my
clothes."
Susan Samuels: Evening Capsule

Colors Black/White.
Fabrics Silk gabardine. Wool crepe. Wool flannel. Silk crepe. Touches of metallics. Likes
fabrics that can be worn year round, that move easily from day to night.
Accessories
Counts
on them for drama at night. Feels shoes make the biggest change.
Lots of different earrings for evening; rings, too. Likes flowing scarves, dressy
belts.
Style
Depends
on separates for
Key words Drama.
lots of looks.
Glitter. Theatrical
without theatrics.
Chapter 5
THE TRAVEL
CAPSULE:
L/ome people go away for a weekend and look as
they'll
if
be gone for a month. Others can go from London to Luxor for three weeks with
one suitcase and an overnight bag.

take and
what
Capsules are
two
to leave behind, plus
all
more
to select the
Capsule pieces, what to
out the best from your different
important parts of the travel picture. With the right clothing,
pairs of shoes can
take
How
how to pull
shirts
do where four might otherwise be needed
and fewer
skirts,
smashing piece of jewelry instead of a second evening

travel well
from hot climates
wringing wet
better travelmates than

filled
to cold.
in the desert. Silks
coat can keep
Others
may
toasty
warm when
outfit.
Some
some
fabrics
be drip dry but leaving you
and lightweight wools
any shade of polyester.
you
or you might
a sweater rather than a jacket, or
On
in cool colors
can be
the other hand, one
the only heat
from a campfire. That same quilted coat can look as chic
you have
is
down
coming
in Paris as in Peru.
The Travel Capsule
140
THINK BEFORE YOU PACK

become a standard part of the working woman's life. What
and even more important, what do you leave at home?
questions must be answered. Where are you going? How long
Business trips have
do you take with you

First, the
will
basic
you be
there?
And what
will
Some newspapers (such as the

from
cities
all
you be doing? What
New York
over the U.S.
will the
weather be
like?
Times) give a smattering of reports
and around the world.
Some
television
rundown on weather conditions across the country. If

these are not helpful, call ahead. By telephoning Information in any U.S. city
(using the area code plus 555-1212) you can get the number for the recorded
meteorologists give a
local
but
weather bulletin. Calling ahead for a local report

can save you a
it
lot of
may
cost a
little
extra,
aggravation.
Studying your schedule before you pack will give you a good idea of
how many
changes you will need. Breakfast, lunch and dinner with the same people for
several days will
mean more changes than one meeting each day with different
room in front of the television. Thinking in terms of
people and dinner in your
changes helps clarify your needs. Four days and four nights in one town can
mean
eight changes.
FLEXIBILITY IS
Your
itinerary
is
good
starting point for packing.
THE KEY
After you've determined what the weather will be like and what
you
will
be
you have kept your wardrobe to one

basic Capsule, this group becomes your travel Capsule as well. If you have two
or more Capsules, you may simply choose the one that will work for you.
doing,
it's
time to decide what to take.
Or you may
If
bring together pieces from two different Capsules whose colors
are compatible.
Working Wardrobe
141
Like any other Capsule, the one for travel works on the two-color system with
The best travel Capsule has the fewest number of pieces

amount of flexibility. It should require only one color in shoes
and handbags. With the exception of very formal occasions, the clothes you
pieces that interrelate.
and
the greatest
take should function well for day and night.
As Fashion Director
tact
my
of Garfinckel's,
job required that
year, each for a
minimum
European fashion
trips to
of
two
be
and two three-week
days),
in constant
trips a
year to the
The
as well.
cities
trips to
Seventh Avenue
usually involved being with different people from the store every day.
be working on
shows with
less of
The European
exactly the
trips
same people
all
the time. For these
For a three day
New
trip to
York,
with a black wool sweater jacket.
The
right for
skirts
work with
took a suitcase plus a carry -on
might take a Black/Gray Capsule. This
would pack
on
its
own
the sweater jacket.
skirts.
and made a
the skirts
suit
would wear on
if I
and a pullover
of the dress could be
jacket also
worked with
of a dress
when combined with
worn
the other
look with the black one. The pullover went with
and had the look
in
were going out to dinner, and look
The blouse
The black sweater
the plane
a black knife-pleated skirt in
flannel skirt, one silk blouse in ivory,
dress could stand
with any of the
different
New York became
travel Capsules.
a gray striped two-piece silk dress
wool crepe and a gray
Working with
trips to
usually traveled with just a carry-on
worked around
black.
might
meant eighteen days and eighteen evenings with
bag. In both situations,
would include
The quick
a need for changes.
commuter's shuttle for me, and
like a
promotions with the coat buyer one day, and on spring
the designer sportswear buyer the next.
people meant
bag.
fall
con-
(thirty trips a
London, and Milan. There were occasional
capitals of Paris,
other U.S. and European
New York
with the market. That meant frequent travel to
all
of
the black skirt, giv-
142
ing
The Travel Capsule
me another
dressy outfit
blouse, of course,
were going out
if I
worked with any
in the
on
of the skirts
evening again. The ivory

its
own and
with either
The simple black shoes I took one pair which I wore, and one pair
packed went with everything. My basic accessories included a pair of
sweater.
which
gold earrings, a pair of pearl earrings, a rope of pearls, and a black leather
I
always wore
my
watch and gold
bracelet.
At
the
bottom
black nylon raincoat that took up almost no space at

lingerie, a
It
was always fun
We
what other people from
to see
who was
While
complexion.
Our
this contrast as a guideline for
few pieces of
when
the store took
is
our customers'
tastes.
At
we
show-
the Missoni
from
the flowers
which were
complex color combinations. The range offered by the Missoni

finally
worked out
collec-
a system of selecting
two color
my
choice for
groupings, one Joan's choice for blondes and redheads, and one
Though our
was
a pale blonde with a
to the food, to, of course, the clothes,
was enormous, but we
brunettes.
they
of luggage, but the contents

skin, she
Milan, color was abundant everywhere
blooming indoors and out,
tions
belt.
kept a
color preferences were always dissimilar. In fact,
fair
used
just outside
amount
have dark hair and
very
rich in
bag
the buyer of designer clothes, traveled to Europe
usually carried the same
totally different.
room
all.
my
cosmetic bag and electric rollers finished the picture.
traveled. Joan Carl,
with me.
of
choice of styles was usually similar, the effect of the
clothes in different colors offered a
marked
contrast.
Before Joan travels to Europe, she lines everything up in her office.
Then she
makes sure
there isn't anything she can't
pants must be able to
work with
same, a jacket must go with
all
a sweater
at least three
and two blouses, a
of the bottoms.
that kind of flexibility. Otherwise,
home. As
wear
ways.
skirt
pair of
must do the
Whatever she takes must have
no matter how much she loves
for colors, she might base her Capsule
it,
it
stays
around a favorite knit coat
Working Wardrobe
143
and burgundy
that has purple
in
it.
She might include a purple knit two-piece
and
dress, a three piece striped knit outfit, lots of silk blouses in purple, wine,
ivory, a pair of
burgundy suede pants and
a purple suede skirt. Mixing the
sweater knits with the suedes gives one interesting look, while combining the
suedes and the silks gives a totally different texture. Again, there are enough
color combinations and styles to give her
are at the hotel cleaners, she
knows
good
flexibility.
Even
if
some
things
work
she has clothes in her closet that will
together.
There are some
your
trips that require pulling together different
travel Capsule. For example,
one
trip
made
to
Capsules to form
Europe included the usual
stops in Milan, Florence, Paris, and London, but then
was meeting
Sadat.
It
was
and
April,
it
would
still
be rather chilly
in
Europe. In Cairo and
Luxor, however, the temperature could climb as high as 115 degrees.

to
my
Anwar
journalist-husband for a trip to Egypt and an interview with President
needed
combine a winter Capsule and a summer Capsule.
For
this particular trip,
my winter Capsule,
two-piece dark green
chose to work around a Capsule of Green/Ivory. From
packed a
suit in a forest
silk paisley shirtdress.
over sweater, a rust turtleneck, and two ivory

collar
and one with a bow). The
dress in ivory,
Egypt, and they

Paris, too.
layer
my
silk
came
in
sweaters under
took three pairs of shoes
my
packed an ivory
pull-
blouses (one with a notched
came from
suit.
my summer
one-piece shirt-
For evening
included a
did throw in a pair of jeans for sightseeing in
handy
A rust unlined coat
silk shirtdress in rust, a
and an ivory silk-and-wool-blend
pair of ivory crepe trousers.
these
rest of the clothing
Capsule and included a two-piece raw
Then I added
green wool tweed.
With
for
kept
suits.
some casual evenings on
me warm, and on
For wet days,
beige pumps,
rust
the Left
Bank
very chilly days
had
my
nylon raincoat.
pumps, and beige
in
could
I
espadrilles for
The Travel Capsule
144
sightseeing expeditions in Cairo
during the day, but
dressy evenings. All of this
my
carry-on bag, so that
me,
was
it
Before
bed.
make
Only then does
fit
one
in
My
suitcase.
it
take out the pieces
go
1
in the suitcase.
set of
There are some essentials
makeup
in
dry overnight.
some
little
and
the
my
know I'll always

cabinet.
a small
blow
trips.
hand
dryer, both
travel with
space and can be rinsed out and hung
do always pack a lightweight robe
of
my bathroom
which can change current automatically for international
was, For
in small plastic containers, a
set of electric rollers
nylon lingerie which takes up very
when
want and spread them on
keep them on a separate shelf
steamer for domestic travel, a
service for
bag
personal items went in a
luggage was manageable no matter where
trip,
They include a separate
to
carried a tan leather clutch
sure that each piece can be used in several different ways.
take with me, and
of
a truly complete travel Capsule.
pack for any
Then
and Luxor.
did take a small antique Japanese basketweave purse for
since
dinners. In fact, that's one luxury
enjoy calling
I
room
look forward to
travel!
DESIGNING YOUR
Suppose there
is
OWN TRAVEL CAPSULE
a trip coming
selecting the clothes to
pack?
up
First
in
your schedule.
How
should you go about
decide on a color scheme. That
way you can
Then decide which are the

most important events on your schedule and how you want to look. If you are
taking a suit, consider it as a separate skirt and jacket as well. Then pick other
automatically eliminate pieces that won't work.
pieces that will relate

skirts or
another
work with the skirt and other

You might include a dress that also
top that will
pants that will go with the jacket.
can work with the jacket. For a two- or three-day

or one jacket, pants
and
a skirt
(all
in a
trip,
dark color)
one jacket and two
may
skirts
be enough. While the
Working Wardrobe
skirt
and
145
jacket together give an excellent authoritative look, the skirt alone can
be dressed up for evening with a pretty blouse. The pants can be very comfortable for traveling
and can
dresses, include at least
also function as
an evening look.
If
you
are choosing
one jacket that can work with them so that again, you
can get a crisper look for meetings and a softer look when you want
Keep
to solid colors or subtle patterns in jackets, pants, skirts,
gives
you more
away
work
for
and
flexibility. Prints
can get pretty tiresome
if
and
dresses. This
you're going to be
any length of time. They are more recognizable, and not as
with. But
you can introduce color and
scarves. Blouses, indeed, are a great
without taking up
much
punch
way
flexible to
pattern with blouses, sweaters,
to
change
mood and
color easily,
space in your suitcase. Scarves, another small item to

terms of color and effect.
A white shirt and a dark
take,
pack a
skirt
can take on a dozen different looks depending on the scarf that
with
it.
If
you enjoy
so that
lot of
jewelry,
it
in
can have the same
becomes something new and
it
it.
effect,
is
worn
changing the look of an outfit
fresh looking
even though you've been
more than you would have if you were home. A rope of pearls
automatically dresses up your silk blouse and skirt. A big necklace adds drama
wearing
it
a lot
to a simple sweater
wardrobe
and
interesting.
skirt. It's this
kind of change that can keep your travel
The Travel Capsule
146
The
that
short trips,
that
must
essential accessories
means
two
pairs of shoes should
do the
If
all
your
of
clothes. For
one that you wear and one
trick,
you pack. Longer periods away may warrant
daytime and a dressy pair for evening.
you may need an
your Capsule. That
travel, too; they are part of
your shoes and handbag must work with
two
three pairs,
any sightseeing
additional pair of walking shoes. In
trips will
any
for the
be included,
no more than
case,
four pairs of shoes should be necessary, one of which you'll be wearing. Your
handbag should complement

any dressy evenings you
There are some business
seeing, sun
all
will
your
of
want
clothes;
trips that
however,
if
you
are planning
one evening purse.
to include
allow time for
leisure,
whether
it's
sight-
worshipping or shopping. Along with a swimsuit, include a pair of
casual pants or a casual skirt.
Capsule so that
it
It
should be
in the color
scheme of your
can work with the tops you take along.
travel
there are
If
any
dressy evenings planned, one simple dress, in a jersey or a silk crepe, should be
sufficient.
Or, you
Short trips
may
may
include a dressy pair of slacks and a pretty top.
only require an overnight case for
all
of
your
things. But for
longer stays, one hanging bag or suitcase should
accommodate
Hanging bags have the advantage
when you
clothes.
your clothing hung while you
travel.
safest in a separate carry-on bag.
arrive
and find your luggage
makeup,
curlers, or
lost is
whatever
else
of arriving
Your personal
That sinking
items,
all
of
your
do, and keep
however, are always
feeling that
comes when you
even worse when you find yourself without
you need
to
make you, you. One bag and
carry-on gives you the ability to handle your things without the help of
porters
who
may
not be there anyway.
chases along the way,
up almost no space
slip a
at all
and
will allow
crushing your clothes on the trip back.
your Capsule.
If
you
anticipate
making any pur-
separate nylon bag into your suitcase.
you
If
to
It
will take
shop without worrying about
you do buy any
clothes,
remember
Working Wardrobe
THE PROBLEM
Kathleen H. was a publicist for a small firm in San Francisco. The head of the
company asked if she would be interested in going to London for two weeks on
business. She was delighted but realized that her wardrobe needed some
embellishing. At work she wore very casual clothes, but in London she would
need a dressier look.
THE SOLUTION
Kathleen had a bright navy jacket which she liked very much. She also
white pleated
wanted
skirt, a
to
skirt,
and had recently bought a raspberry
work around
two-piece dress
in
these clothes.
We
navy and wine
silk
owned
blouse. She
added a pair of wine pants, a navy
silk, a
wine cardigan, and
She could attend meetings during the day, go out

evening, and pack just ten pieces of clothing.
to dinner
navy blouse.
and the theater
in the
Navy/ Wine Travel Capsule

Two-Week
Trip
Working Wardrobe
THE PROBLEM
Sharon T. lived
in
Boston and worked for an electronics firm. The industry was
holding a convention in Atlanta. Sharon would be representing the

the
booth during the day and would be going
evening. She needed clothes that
to dinners
and
company
at
parties in the
would be comfortable and could be dressed up
at night.
THE SOLUTION
Working around
a favorite ivory suit, Sharon used that as the jacket
and
skirt.
She decided to buy a pair of ivory pants, as they would be perfect during the
summer,
skirt
too. She took
an ivory blouse, a red
which would mix well with the ivory
interesting look, she also
silk shirt,
skirt
and a
teal silk shirt
brought along a new purple cardigan. With
Ivory /Teal Capsule, she was able to get several varied looks from ivory
tones to bursting brights.
and
and pants. To make another

this
mono-
Ivory/Teal Travel Capsule

Four
Day Convention
Working Wardrobe
151
HOW TO PACK
Packing a hanging bag
is
quite simple
whatever you would ordinarily
such as jackets, skirts and dresses, are hung
in the bag.
hang,
Folded items, such as
sweaters and nightgowns, go in the bottom compartments along with
all
of
your
other personal items. Because this type of luggage goes on the plane with you,
you can
also include
worry about
your cosmetics and other
their getting lost. So, a
independence, freeing you from worries about

essity of waiting
If
you
without having to
it
to carry
lost luggage, eliminating the nec-
after
you have disembarked from
your own
suitcase.
more than
prefer a traditional suitcase, which, of course can hold
you should
ing bag can,

into
around for your bags long
and enabling you
the airplane,
essentials in
hanging bag can give you a great sense of
still
be able to put
all
of
a hang-
your clothes and accessories
one bag. There are several travel items you might consider which can make
One
which can hold necklaces,
bracelets, pins
and earrings and protect them from getting damaged. There are
also attractive
packing
easier.
lingerie cases
hung
ing kit,
also
a jewelry
roll,
which hold nightgowns,
in the closet
are the ideal
is
way
upon your
panties, bras
arrival at
your
for holding shoes, so
To pack your
slips,
hotel. Plastic lined cosmetic cases
suitcase, first line
essential. Plain plastic
first
heel of
sew-
bags are
have some of these available.
up everything you are planning
you, making sure that your shoes and handbags will go with
The
and which can be
to carry cosmetics as well as medicine, nail polish, soap,
and any other items which you consider
handy
and
all
of
to take with
your
clothes.
layer in your bag should contain your shoes, going sole to sole, the
one touching the toe of the other, your handbags, your accessories,
cluding scarves, and your intimate apparel. Use the
and shoes
for
your
softer things so that
you
fill
in-
empty spaces between bags
out and even off that layer.
On
top of this will go your largest items, your skirts, pants, dresses and jackets.
Your
skirts
should be placed
flat in
the bag
and then folded once
in half.
To
The Travel Capsule
152
pack your pants, hold them by the
Then
them
fold
fold should be
in half.
all
you need,
shoulder and place

the skirt
is
unless the skirt
your suitcase so
up once over
the sides in first

is
in
with one leg
little
is
flat
against the other.
one
trickier to pack, but, again,
very
full.
Hold
the dress
that the top of the dress
by
the
and
inside
is
draped over the edge. Then place the sleeves across the front and
fold the skirt
the dress
it
cuffs,
Dresses can be a
the sleeves
and bodice.
and then fold the whole bottom up
If
the skirt
is
very
to reach the top.
buttoned, zipped and belted before you pack
it,
so that
full,
fold
Make
sure
retains
it
its
shape. Like the dresses, jackets should be buttoned too, then placed buttons
down
into the suitcase. Bring the sleeves back,
the jacket to
fit
into the bag. After
blouses, sweaters,
When
and then fold over
you have packed
the
bottom of
these items, then put in
and a raincoat, which you may need
to get at quickly.
using a suitcase that travels in the luggage compartment of the plane,
take along a separate small bag that will go under your seat. In
it
can go cos-
metics, that should be in plastic containers inside the plastic lined cosmetics
case, hair dryer, electric curlers, travel iron or steamer,
and perhaps a collapsible
roll
In choosing
ticularly
self
your luggage, consider the many materials now
important to be concerned about weight as you
carrying your
case that
is
alarm clock, jewelry
travel umbrella.
own
bags. Fortunately,
leather luggage
is still
it.
Although
It is
par-
often find your-
no longer necessary
it is
heavy even before you pack
available.
may
to
buy a
beautiful, but
suit-
heavy
available, other options include hard-sided fabric bags,
hard-sided molded bags, soft-sided canvas bags, and soft-sided featherweight
bags made of parachute cloth.
have found soft-sided bags
practical as they are light to carry
imagine. Before
on luggage
you
go,
make
tags attached to
bag.
sure your
name and
your bags. This
save you from picking up the
to be extremely
and can hold much more than one would
wrong
is
address are clearly marked
required on
suitcase or help
you
all airlines
and can
in identifying a lost
Olive /Gold Travel Capsule

Three Day Trip
Ivory /Tan Travel Capsule

Three Day Trip
Navy /Gray
Travel Capsule
One-Week Convention
Forest /Ginger Travel Checklist
One-Week
Trip
Working Wardrobe
REAL PEOPLE
For the
women
in this chapter, travel
is
way
of
life.
Although
their trips
vary from overnight to a month long, their needs are always the same
mum
looks from
Based on
make
to
minimum
clothes.
women
their capsules, these
travel easy
Trisha
offer
some
solid, practical
jail.
won
an award from the American Council of
Her one-day prison term
ship of Dallas sponsored
problems of
At
how
Wilson
a tribute to her outstanding accomplishments in business
going to
advice on
and comfortable.
Last year Trisha Wilson
is
may
maxi-
all
by
of the citizens in the
is
&
Commerce
by
the Leader-
to understand the
community.
dynamo
thirty-two, this perky, blonde
and president of Trisha Wilson
of
Women,
This year she
art.
part of an experiment
Chamber
the local
and
is
an active participant
in city affairs
Associates, an interior and architectural
design firm with fifteen designers.
To
create fresh ideas for a steady stream of clients, she searches for the
different. "I've
had two
clients
send
Texas drawl. Where did she go on her

to Japan,
Hong Kong, Bangkok,
Sri
me around
new and
the world," she says in her
last trip? "I started in
San Francisco, then
Lanka, Bombay, Zurich, Copenhagen,
London, Chicago, and home." Not quite "Around the World
in
Eighty Days,"
her trip lasted just two-and-a-half weeks. In that period, she went from the
bitter cold of a
January blizzard
in
Copenhagen
to the sizzling equatorial heat
of Sri Lanka.
What
clothes
do you take
for a trip
climate, but in culture? 'There
doesn't go
on an elephant, but
which has such sharp contrasts
was no way
to anticipate
in the jungle they're
it.
not just in
silk dress just
used as taxis." For her unex-
The Travel Capsule
158
pected elephant rides in search of native
Lanka. But for the
her
rest of
art,
she bought a batik sundress in Sri
was
she
trip,
totally prepared,
and packed
everything in one foldable hanging bag. She included extra expandable bags for
personal shopping along the way. "I'm a big shopper, so
room
"I
began with the shoes," she told me.
color, navy.
took three pairs of shoes
coordinated everything with one
"I
walking
wore
night and one pair of boots." She also
shoes for day, sandals for
the sandals during the
sundress as well. Her handbags were in navy, too.

nighttime bag and a shoulder bag, which
always got your hands
full."
The
were minimal and
of
wanted plenty of
to bring things back."
clothes themselves
Navy/Gray.
had a lightweight
"I
wear during the day with a

could wear with
it
silk
at night."
She worked around the theme
basic.
wool
was
skirt
navy
skirt in
or cotton blouse, and
Her other
in
that
skirt.
The other
jacket
That jacket had an extra bonus of her

a quilted
way
navy velvet
could
make
it
collar that
invention.
silk dress. "Silk takes
steam
A white silk blouse,
blouse, plus several
"I
suit
look
flecks of navy.
my dressmaker do
had
daytime or nighttime." She also included a pair of
either
out," she says.
could put on the collar of the jacket. That
navy pants and a navy

it
could
gray tropical wool. She
was a gray tweed with
own
had a beaded sweater
brought along two jackets, one a blazer that she could work into a
with the navy
imperative because you've
feel is
tropical
day with her
had two purses
"I
no room
at all
and you can
just
a white cotton shirt, a paisley silk
wool sweaters, gave her
the variety
and
flexibility
she
needed. The only other item was a navy trench coat with a button-out lining.
"The reason
took a dark coat was
khaki color but
it
it
could go either way.
looked so much more formal
With
just these basic pieces, she stressed, "I
but
wore
the
any room.
I
also
cost the
same
had three
had
"I
took a
lot of accessories
different belts
a paisley
as a
never wore the same outfit twice,
same clothes every day." She explained how she changed
look with her accessories.
wrap.
It
at night."
a leather one,
cummerbund which
the
because they don't take up

a gold one, and a striped
could do around twice at the
Working Wardrobe
159
neck and make a bow.
had about
five ties to
make
bows and some
into
scarves
and a muffler."
Among
dryer.
the personal items Trisha
As
packed were
ten dollars with the nightcream

bottles for
shampoo and
electric rollers
Arden has
for her other essentials, "Elizabeth
and everything
things like that.
put
all
in
and a small hair-
a travel kit for less than
it.
bought
little
plastic
of that in one plastic bag
and
then in the big bag."
How
did she
manage with so
matter of survival."
little?
"It's
How did she know
it
the only
would
all
way you can do
work?
"I start
with a blank sheet of paper and write
down
the days
Monday
night,
Tuesday day, etc'
I'll
put
down 'Monday
day,
sees exactly
what her needs
explains her
own
will
be and writes
I'll
it.
It's
out every
be away. For example,
down what
"
That way she
she will wear. She
philosophy: "I'm a prime believer that your only limitation
your imagination." Trisha has
let
trip
her imagination soar, and
it
is
has taken her not
only around the world but to the top of her profession as well.
Trisha Wilson: Travel Capsule

Colors
Navy /Gray.
Fabrics
Brown /Gray.
Lightweight and
Accessories
seasonless: Tropical weight wools, flannel, silk, cotton.
Counts on scarves, bows, and belts to create varied looks. Begins with shoes
and bags. Stays with one color
Loves to create ideas
Style
'Tour only limitation
is
belt
here, then
buckle
your imagination."
Key words Original. Imaginative. Perky.
works her
made from an
Fresh.
travel capsule
old compact.
around
it.
The Travel Capsule
160
Diane Sawyer
Diane Sawyer has a double image problem. She
she wants to be seen, but also
may work face
to face
how
think should
work
man's
so.
you can
that
it's
"At
first
may be
is
The
it's
It's
it."
Must
on the
not the image
does want to con-
the duplication of a
I
air," she replies. "I think a
"I
think
sweater
effect similar to a jacket."
feels
they give her clothing individuality and extra
concerned that they capture the attention of the audience.
camera eye
"It is
up the extraneous item and rivets

better." She may wear a pin on her
that picks
simpler, but not stark simple, the
but she's learned to choose simple ones, and not those with
"interesting patterns in them, because then the viewer spends the
trying to figure out
what on earth
She's also used accessories to beef
1980
don't think
there always be a jacket?
the biggest problem on the screen. Although Diane enjoys
the curiousness of the

it.
to project, but she
glance you might think
the completeness of
wearing accessories and

mileage, she
CBS network
me. Things that you
subconsciously suggests a man's authority, but
molds the shoulders has an
sweater,
wants
get that look with sweaters
Distraction
on
this
how
What
well don't, like a simple black suit and a simple red blouse.
air of authority.
attire that
think
Says
just fascinates
across looking like a department store inspector."
of the girl in gray flannel that Diane
vey an
concerned not only with
may not be successful on camera.
news correspondent, "Television dressing
You come
is
she will look on the television screen.
political
whole time
on your pin."
up her spare
travel
wardrobe. Covering the
campaigns, Diane was often away for two or three weeks at a
time, living out of
one hanging bag. "You have three or four things and you
wear them every day.

took about three
had three or four looks
sets of items: jackets, skirts,
public from getting bored?
can make a
that says
"I
lot of difference
took a
on
could get from one item, and
and
shirts."
How did she keep
lot of different earrings.
television, so
the
Colored earrings
took green ones, purples ones,
Working Wardrobe
161
red ones." She also took several necklaces, including brightly colored ones,
neutrals
don't
and gold. She brought along a change of
show up
work around
as
much on camera.
a pair of silk pants
and a bright
When
bracelets, too,
would
packed one other morale booster
silk shirt. "I can't tell
you've lived
though they
also took a couple of scarves that
the neck or at the waist." She
psychologically.
to put
"I
you what
in sturdy clothes all
day long,
it
did for
it's
on something flamboyant."
Diane Sawyer: Travel Capsule

Colors
White/Pretty pales.
Fabrics
Soft sweaters.
Accessories
Simple
Wool
skirts. Silk blouses.
and nondistracting. Bright
colors,
to
change a look.
soft
look in a tough
in jewelry,
Scarves to wear at the neck or the waist.

Style
Separates
pulled together with an accent
world.
Key words Authoritatively
feminine.
on
accessories.
me
fantastic
Chapter 6
SHOP
TALK:
A
you,
of
it
will
working wardrobe
change and develop as you do.
your past experience, you
you already own. To build

selecting out those pieces
which you have never
number
of items with
may
not
is
Just as
static.
you bring
bring to your wardrobe
working wardrobe
which you
really like
really felt comfortable.
As
to
a reflection of
your work some
some
of the clothes
will require a sifting process,
and enjoy, discarding those

It is
likely that there will
which you can work. They may be the basis
sule or several, depending, of course,
of
in
be a
one Cap-
on what they are and what colors they
are in.
After deciding what to keep, the next step
Capsule. For some people, shopping
know what you want,
the process
is
is filling
in the missing pieces of
your
not a pleasant experience, but as you
itself
becomes much
easier.
Knowing
the
kinds of clothes you need for your Capsule and the look you want to project,
will help
you
as
you go through
the stores.
Shop Talk
164
LOOK BEFORE YOU BUY

Shopping should be a three-step procedure. Begin by looking through fashion
magazines and fashion catalogs to give you a sense of direction. Not only
will
you now have
that
you discover what
in style,
is
you
will also see
what
clothes
can be adapted to your new working wardrobe. Cut out pictures of what you
like,
whether
a particular item, or a total look; this can help
it is
You may even be
are in the stores.
telephone or by mail
The second
available.
step
is
if
you
you when you
do some of your shopping by
able to
find specific items
you can use
for
also investigative. Scout the stores to see
your Capsule.
what
is
actually
Although the magazines are a great inspiration, they are sometimes
too advanced even for the
retailers,
bought from the manufacturers. In
and the items they show are not always
fact,
each month the fashion magazines will
leading stores around the country to inform them of the clothes to be
call the
featured in future editions and to find out which stores have actually bought
these items so they can be credited with the merchandise. But
all
too often,
fashion editors choose looks which store buyers don't feel are salable.
Actually going through the stores will give you a

there. In addition,
interior displays.
and thought
way
to
you an opportunity
Take advantage
how
inside the store,
to study store
is
windows and
of them. Store personnel take a lot of time
retailers
look upon them as a teaching process, a
it
can
all
be put together.
head for the expensive areas.
what
to
fabrics,
know where
and what shapes are sure

hemlines are going,
have been developed, or
if
new
Why? To
teach yourself
what trends are being shown, what
the best merchandise looks like,
fabrics
what
realistic appraisal of
showing the customer the newest looks, the most important or forward
of
colors,
want
will give
do them, and
merchandise, and
Once
what
it
if
to be
around
If
you
full, if
new
for a while.
pants will be narrow or
color combinations are being
worked
Working Wardrobe
together, this
a pyramid.
165
is
the place to get your information.
New
ideas
come from
The clothing industry
a small group of people
like
is
the designers and
from there the best looks are copied and adapted for wider and wider markets.
Naturally, this filtering process takes a while, so the best of the
around for
may
they
a long time.
start
the latest trend
If
workmanship may not be
more
still
retailers are
less
and
less
new looks
are
for example, intricate sweaters,
out as hand knits costing several hundred dollars.
copied tor several seasons at
While you are
is,
money. Of course,
They may be
the quality
and
the same, but the look will be there.
new areas. More and

woman. Departments are
'The Office" at Abraham and
scouting the stores, look around for
gearing themselves to the working
being opened with an eye to the executive suite.

Straus, "Corporate
Image"
at Filene's,
are just three examples of this trend.
and "Careers"
Shopping
at
in these
&
Marshall Field
Co.
departments can save
innumerable hours. They often stock clothing and accessories gathered from
around the
store, including
merchandise priced from moderate to expensive.
Often the department has a special manager, someone

career
woman's needs.
Many
stores
have personal shoppers
who
who
is
tuned
in to
can become an extension of their
customers, keeping track of their needs, their taste, and their budgets. They
(most
will
minimum),
at
often
without charge although sometimes with a
pull together the clothes
first
time
to be tried
on
your convenience, and spend the hours you don't have hunting down those
really
needed items. These consultants can be a goldmine of information. They
are thoroughly familiar with
and
easily.
going on
what
to
you want, have them ready
will
update
They
sale.
usually
what
is
know what
in the store
is
coming
and can find things quickly
in to stock as well as
Because they work with the clothing
go with what,
how
last year's clothes.
to
all
what
change a look from casual to dressy,
is
know
and how
of the time, they
Shop Talk
166
While personal shoppers are particularly helpful
saleswoman can be invaluable

larger store.
may
She
be the owner or
needs and knows not only what you
may even
She
who
be someone
in big stores, a
in a smaller store
someone who understands your
just
may
knowledgeable
or within a department of a
like
but what will look good on you.
looks like you, has a similar figure or coloring,
or dresses with the kind of style
you admire.
THE PROBLEM
M. had
Eileen
she was a
lived in the
young
same
city in
Ohio
for
most of her
From
life.
the time
she had shopped in one favorite department store.
girl,
Recently she had
moved
to Chicago,
department
stores.
She found she had neither the time nor the desire to
large
run
all
by
herself confused
of the
all
over town trying to find what stores had the merchandise she wanted.
But with a
new
and found
new
job for herself and for her husband, she
knew
she needed
some
clothes.
THE SOLUTION
Eileen called several of the
major stores and found out that some of them had
personal shoppers. After talking to them on the phone, she

aggressive, one
insisted
agreeable to her.
met Caroline
in
that
felt
on too high a minimum purchase, but the
Making an appointment on
one was too
third
a lunch hour, Eileen
seemed
went
in
and
person. In discussing her needs, she explained that she would be
going out to business dinners with her husband a good deal, and that she
worked
in a small office as well.
piece knit suit in
she
wore
navy and a
Her favorite clothes
kelly green jacket.
a lot, but she needed to pull
all
at the
moment were a two
She had a navy
skirt too, that
of her things together plus get
some
dressy ideas. Caroline suggested that she could go through the store, gather
some
clothes together
around a
first
out a
card with
file
and present them
time budget of $250.

all
to Eileen the following
They agreed
to this plan,
of this pertinent information, they
week working
after making
and
began an excellent
working relationship whereby Eileen could telephone ahead, explain her

current needs, and make an appointment to try on clothes based on her existing
wardrobe.
u-
Shop Talk
168
THE PROBLEM
Every time Sandy G. went shopping, she found she was overwhelmed by
all
the
clothing she saw. In fact, she even found herself getting anxious at the thought
became bewildering and
of going shopping. Inside the stores, the merchandise

all
began
to look alike.
what she wanted.
would buy
seemed
would
to
If
When
a salesperson approached her, she
was unsure
of
she tried things on, nothing seemed to look right. She
things out of frustration
and anger. At home, her clothes never
go together, but the idea of going shopping to find what she needed
her again.
just upset
THE SOLUTION
Sandy and
took a morning and sorted through her
clothes she really liked

closet
and what she
and Sandy vowed
to give
them
signment in a second-hand store.
We
didn't.
We
closet, deciding
removed
the rejects
to friends or charity or put
arranged what remained
what
from the
them on con-
in her closet
by
color and found that most of her favorite clothes were beige or black. She also
had some pieces
in
wine that she
liked.
We
decided to
work
her clothes into a
black and beige Capsule, using wine as an accent. She found that by looking at
own and
each piece of clothing on
its
create a lot of outfits. But
what she
trying
really
it
with the other items, she could
found she needed was two blouses, a
white one and a beige one.

Setting out to
go shopping, Sandy knew exactly what to look for
in the store.
She headed straight for the department that carried her price range
and zeroed
in
on what she needed. By doing
her fear and she
was able
felt satisfied
to pull together a
by
this,
Sandy was able
the shopping experience.
working wardrobe.
And
in blouses,
to
overcome
for $80,
Sandy
Black/Beige Working Capsule

Beige
Will
work with
Jacket
Jacket
c
a
Jacket
All jackets
blouses.
Skirt
All jackets, blouses.
Skirt
E^
R
L_
L_
Skirts
Ml
Skirt
Blouse
Blouse
Blouse
Blouse
Sweater
jackets
blouses
Shop Talk
170
MAKING YOUR SELECTIONS

Once you
find the departments in
for the third step

see a skirt
you
that relate to
like,
it.
which you want
buying your clothes.
Or,
carry
if
it
Look
to concentrate, you're ready
carefully at the selection.
around the department and
you are
trying to complete a Capsule
those you already own, bring along one or two
If
you
try to find other pieces
of the items
by adding
pieces to
you already have
in
work with colors and shapes if you can see

them in front of you rather than trying to remember what they look like. The
mind's eye can play funny tricks, and what you remembered as a dark blue
your
closet.
skirt
may
Going
It is
much
easier to
turn out to be three shades lighter.
into the dressing
room
presents a traumatic situation for
many women.
It is
a place of confrontation with yourself, and the meeting can be unsettling
you
aren't
happy with what you
see in the mirror. But
if
also can be a starting
it
do those thigh-slimming
room can also be the place
where you can play with different looks, sample new colors, and experiment
with the latest fashions. It is a private spot where you are free to try out a new
point, the time
when you
more
exercises
on
and
see
how
role
it
resolve to go
consistent basis.
suits
on a
The
diet or
dressing
you.
Dressing rooms are notorious for evil mirrors and fading lightbulbs that seem
to pick
up everything
that's
wrong with your
figure
and
little that's right.
when
great
on you
in real life. If
you have any doubts about
the
out to the selling floor and find a three-way mirror in good
take
it
give
you a
true idea of
dressing well
is
how you
look from every angle.
making sure you look
attractive
from the
So
know it will look

way an outfit looks,
something looks good on you in the dressing room, you
One
light; this will
of the keys to
front, back,
and
side.
Working Wardrobe
171
While you are looking
in the mirror,
dress a flattering length for
the shape too full or overpowering?
Does
it
works almost
make you bulge
it
Is
the skirt or
wrong places? Is
color complement your skin tone?
Does the
envelopes you, or
is it
in the
the fabric
a print,
is
small and neat enough that
it
it? If
is
like a solid?
One important
the
it
drain color from your face or add color to
the pattern so large that
part,
ask yourself some questions.
you? Does
thing to look for
is
pockets, so that you, like your male counter-
have a comfortable place to put your hands. Pockets can
awkwardness many
when
feel
relieve a lot of
they are standing and talking. Because
pockets are an added expense for a manufacturer, they are often omitted in
expensive clothes but they are worth a few extra dollars to you
you
if
less
they help put
at ease.
When you are
trying
on a
jacket, look carefully at
its
length.
Does
hips or end just in the middle of them? Midhip-length jackets
wider.
Where does
the jacket hit you-at the rear?
Does
it
it
cover your
make you look
emphasize your der-
riere? If the jacket
has pockets, do these conflict with the pockets on your skirt
or dress, or does
cover them so that they don't fight one another?
is
short, does
If
you
into
it
it
are trying
your
skirt.
on a blouse, make sure
Are the
sleeves long
Do
too long and sloppy looking?

tering?
Does
it
If
the jacket
cover your waist, or does your blouse show?
have a
it is
enough?
long enough to be tucked neatly
On the other hand,
are the sleeves
the shoulders
fit
properly?
worn
in
more than one way
collar that can be
down, button or unbuttoned? This kind
Is
of collar will give
the neckline flat-
up and
you much more
versatility.
What about your own

that
figure type?
emphasize your tiny
the very feminine details that
If
you are short and
slim, look for clothes
You can wear tucks and pleats and carry off

many larger women cannot. If you're heavy or
figure.
Shop Talk
172
stocky,
are
you can look slimmer and longer
in clothes that are
narrow on top and broad through the
monotones.
hips, look for jackets
If
you
and tops with
shoulder pads or tucking at the shoulders. The extra width at the top will de-
emphasize the bottom.
you carry
off
If
you
more extremes
enough
are lucky
to be
you can
in fashion,
tall,
also
enjoy
it.
Not only can
wear simple clothes with
elegance and sophistication.
When it comes
to trying
on
clothes,
Nancy
Kissinger has
some good
advice. Al-
though she has learned a great deal from the American designers whose clothes
she wears, her mother was her best teacher. "I have a fantastic mother who
taught
me about
fit
and things
like that.
She was also honest about what looked
awful on me," Nancy says. Like any young
always see herself the
mother would say,

sort of
If
others did.
"I
girl,
but
five feet
this
lanky Nancy did not
it
it's
beautiful'
and
looks dreadful on you!' That
So I'd say, 'yes, it's a perfectly

two and weighed ninety two pounds, it would
my
height and weight."
While you are trying on clothes, think about
would wear
tall,
at yourself realistically.
were
look absolutely exquisite. But not at
style. If there is
the
used to say, 'oh
'yes, it's perfectly lovely,
made you look
beautiful dress.
way
someone you would

kind of look.
If
like to
something
how you
can develop your
own
emulate, consider whether she
in a fashion
magazine has caught
now is the time to try it on. It may look odd once you get it on, but
again it may open up a whole avenue of ideas. Accepting new ideas in
your eye,
then
fashion
is
a question of adapting your eye to change. Professionals in the fash-
new ideas every season. Keep an open mind

new lengths, new shapes, and new color combinations. Then
your imagination roam so that you can come up with a look that will work
ion industry are used to seeing
when
let
it
for you.
comes
to
Working Wardrobe
173
While you are
on
which
room, play with the clothes you've
don't.
good salesperson can help you
Try
here, but, unfortunately,

it
you
yourself.
you've taken five things into the room and only one item works, discard
what you don't want and go back

like.
Look
for separates that will
sweater or a blouse
in a
new
The more complementary

shopping
Good
You may
find that a wonderful
you can
find in
one
session, the easier
your
FIT
important and makes a major difference
terribly
fit is
skirt is a size
you
it.
color can be just the catalyst your Capsule needs.
pieces
your clothes. To get the best
your
one piece you
to the selling floor with the
complement
will be.
THE PERFECT
fit
selected.
bottoms and see which combinations work and
always depend on one being available so you must learn to do
can't
If
in the dressing
different tops with different
well,
one a
fit,
you have
to ignore sizes.
fourteen and your jacket

size ten
and the other a
is
It
in
how you
a size eight. Often
size twelve.
two
You should
what
size
you wear
if
you look good
in the
in
skirts will
realize that
different manufacturers use different patterns for their sizing. Besides,
doesn't matter
look
doesn't matter that
garment.
it
No
really
one
is
going to look at you as you walk in a
she looks good,
but too bad her skirt
they won't care.
All they will notice
If
you
make
is
is
a size
your overall look.
find that the clothes
sure
you
get
room and think, "Gee,

fourteen." They won't know and
them
you purchase do
altered. For
alterations, but there shouldn't be.
you
are trying
reason that
tions.
it's
on were made
fit
some women,
Your
figure
for thousands of
is
but need some adjustments,

there
suit
a stigma attached to
women. Therefore
almost impossible to achieve a perfect
With a few adjustments, the
is
yours alone, but the clothes
fit
it
stands to
without some altera-
or dress can look as
if it
were custom
174
Shop Talk
made.
In
some
the dressing
woman
stores, the alterations
can
you on
fit
room. That way you know that when you
the spot, right in
get the clothing
home,
it
Or perhaps the garment needs only minor adjustments

can show you how to do yourself. Sometimes she will pin a hem for
be ready to wear.
will
that she
you and you can do
the final sewing
when you
get
home.
THE BEST TIME TO BUY

If
you
are just beginning to build
shopping when merchandise
is
your wardrobe, you might want
at its
peak
year begins with January inventories and

spring merchandise begins
and
this is a
tions will
for
it
summer
to
in.
sales.
By March
do spring shopping.
sale as the
summer
Then
at the
in
do your
slowly, in February,
In April
some
stock begins to arrive.
end of July and
to
retailers, the
the departments are filling up,
clothes buying. After July Fourth, inventory
Then
the sales.
in; this is
good time
go on
coming
most
in the stores. For
August,
fall
of the earlier selec-
May is the peak
time
comes again and with
merchandise
the time to take advantage of the best selection
on
is
its
and newest
way
styles.
Dressy holiday clothes arrive in October and November, followed by resort
wear
in
December and January.
The dream,
all
of
it
on
of course,
sale.
is
to find everything
you need
That can happen sometimes, and
in
one department
I've seen
markdown
people put together entire Capsules from the
unusual. Sales, however, can be a great place to find what

if
you know
exactly
what you
it.
racks, but that
you need,
is
especially
They can be expensive
are looking for.
and
even helped
I've
if
you
don't.
Most
stores
down
after
have
sales at regularly scheduled times: fall clothing gets
Thanksgiving; holiday clothes are reduced after the
(usually after inventory); spring items
go on
first
sale after Easter;
marked
of the year
and summer
Working Wardrobe
175
marked down
clothes are
Take advantage
money
really
Fourth of July (again, usually after inven-
special reductions, such as Election
and during the course of the year there are always
sales,
less
after the
between there are usually
tory). In
your favorite
of
what you want, and
bargain
store's
promotional
make
for regular merchandise. But
is
that
a bargain only
if
you
it
efforts. You'll
be paying
sure the item you're buying
are not buying
you wear
Day coat
special purchases.
just
it
and enjoy
another costly error. In shopping, learning to say no
is
because
it;
on
it is
otherwise
it
is
sale.
can be
as important as learning
to say yes.
REAL PEOPLE
Mary DiGiacomo
Mary DiGiacomo
While her
Trust
East Side.
"I
there."
She wears
colors to black
and
quality in fabric
and
well cut
feels
her clothing can be a definite asset.
department of Manufacturers Hanover
Street twice a year."
shop
buy very good
at
things
"because they project a good, clean business image,"
"because they look good on me." She keeps her Capsule

beige, insists
on natural
fibers,
and shops with an eye
and cut." Choosing wool gabardine or wool crepe
skirts,
and
down on New York's
look for ideas on Fifth Avenue," she told me, but
suits,
also, she adds,
jackets
who
around Canal
the discount stores
and
a banker
high above Park Avenue, she does her shopping
sits
Lower
is
office in the International
and
tailored,
silk for
and
"for
for her
her blouses, she requires her jackets to be very
the skirts to
move
well. "I like
and look better on me." Her standard uniform
is
my
have
skirts to
makes them move
better
a silk blouse, a skirt
and a
pleats," says this five foot ten inch executive. "This
jacket or sweater.
Like any smart investor, she watches her

return
on
it.
"I
take very
good care
of
money and makes sure she gets a good

clothes," she says. 'That way they
my
176
last a
Shop Talk
long time.
to a very
wear some
good dry
less frequently.
things four
cleaner, giving
The
less
shoes," she goes on,
"I
and
five years."
She sends her clothes
them her blouses constantly, but her
dry cleaning, the longer the wools
take them to the shoemaker as soon as
have taps put on the front to protect them and

ones that never wear out. Then
In the banker's tradition,
Mary
suits
"Even
will last.
my
buy them.
change the heels
to
German
put a cream on them for extra protection."
states, "I invest in
my
clothes."
Her
attitude
is
woman. "I think my femininity is my biggest asset," she says, "so why downplay it? You have to strike a
happy medium between a professional stance and being a woman."
strictly business-like,
but she never forgets she
is
Mary DiGiacamo: Working Capsule

Colors Black /Beige
Fabrics
Silks,
Accessories
Wool
Watch:
gabardine.
leather
chain. Pearls.
Style Suits.
Wool
band
Diamond
crepe, Fibranne.
for day,
diamond and gold
studs or gold ball earrings.
Silk shirts. Classic, Conservative, Elegant.
Key words Fit. Cut. Investment.
Must be natural
fibers.
for evening.
Thin gold
Working Wardrobe
177
Gail Serfaty
Gail Serfaty
gives
them a
is
woman who always prefers to wear dresses, but she

buy my clothes, make changes," says
one working
special touch.
"As soon as
the assistant curator of the State Department. "I
often change
one.
Or add
all
of the buttons.
Or I may
buy mostly
dresses,
and
I'll
take off a collar and put on an old lace
a silk flower, or change a belt. That
way
give them their
own
look." She chooses dark colored clothes that are pretty but practical, working
around a color scheme of navy and beige. She prefers dresses that have wide
sleeves so she can
move
her arms easily, and
any problems. Her favorite
fabrics
thetics that are crease-resistant
often slip
full skirts
have the look of
so she can bend without
silk
but are
made
of syn-
and washable. For business meetings,
on a jacket or cardigan sweater
to give her dress
she'll
an even more
finished look.
When
she shops, which
stores
and buys most of her things on
styling," she says.
longer."
"And
is
three or four times a year, she heads for the better

sale. "I
look for quality and for classic
find that better clothes are styled to stay in fashion
Shop Talk
SHOPPING WITH A PLAN

The following budget
offers a guideline for
comparison of designer, better and
moderate priced clothing. Please note that prices
may
vary from season to
season.
The manufacturers
listed represent
some
of the
names
in
each category.
Designer
Better
Moderate
Anne
Klein
Ciao
Century
Betty
Hanson
Devon
Hall
Chaus
Blassport
Diane Von Furstenberg
College-Town
Calvin Klein
Evan Picone
Evelyn
Friedericks Sport
Finity
Koret
Harve Bernard
J.
G. Hook
De Jonge
Lady Manhattan
L.
Sport
Jack Mulqueen
Regatta Sport
Kasper for Joan
Leslie
Jones
Schrader Sport
Nipon Boutique
Liz Claiborne
Summit
Stanley Blacker
Marisa Christina
Yves Jennet
Kasper for
J.
Budgeting
Capsule
180
Shop Talk
Whether you shop on your own or with someone
else's
guidance, be sure to
take along a personal checklist provided at the end of this chapter. This checklist
two
enumerates the twelve pieces you need for a working wardrobe Capsule:
jackets, three skirts, four blouses,
two sweaters, and one
approximate idea of what these twelve pieces might
dress.
cost, see the
To
get
Capsule chart. Remember, these twelve pieces will enable you to make at
forty different outfits, but
work with compatible

Capsules featured
Before
If
in
you must keep
shapes.
Chapter
1. It will
you buy anything, ask yourself

1.
Is it in
my
2.
Will
work with
3.
Is it
flattering to
4.
Is
well
5.
Will
it
it
it
two colors
to the
You might even
least
your Capsule and
take along a chart for one of the
you
give
of
an
Budgeting
good guideline
to follow.
these five important questions:
Capsule colors?
made
help
you can answer yes
ing cohesive Capsules,
me
the other pieces in
my
Capsule?
me?
so that
it
will last?
project the look
to these questions,
and you
will
want
you
will
for myself?
way to constructown working wardrobe.
be on your
be building your
Wardrobe Checklist
Capsule Colors:
Acessories Checklist
Capsule Colors:
r'**sN
Chapter 7
FINDING YOUR
INDIVIDUAL
STYLE
T,
he Capsule Concept can be applied to your wardrobe,
no matter what your personal
style.
own. Not only does
you
that give
proach to shopping. Once you
money by heading
just for the
But
it is
important to develop a style of your
a signature, but
know your own
also affords
it
looks that say "you."
One
you an easy ap-
you can save time and
look,
watched a well dressed man

tried
them
on, looked at himself in the mirror, and then rejected them, remarking to his
com-
one day trying on coats
panion,
"It
didn't say 'hello'."
will recognize
To
tic,
department
in a
it
at
try
The Romantic adores flowered
femininity.
it
Her
it
on, and
it
he
is,
you
categories: the
Roman-
and the Modernist.
patterns
and flowing, graceful
tends to have ruffles, pleats, embroidery or

skirts are full,
look
indeed, say "hello."
will,
have divided looks into four
the Pragmatist, the Individualist,
buys a blouse
after another,
When you know what your very own
once when you
simplify styles of dress,
store.
her hair
soft,
and her
styles.
some
When
she
extra detail of
accessories flowers
and
Finding Your Individual Style
186
cameos. She pictures herself as a
O'Hara
in
Gone With
girl
on a
The Romantic might wear
or an actress.
hill in
a Renoir painting or as Scarlett
Wind. She might choose a career
the
the Capsule
on page
as a ballerina, a poet
B Blouse
19, jacket
G Skirt E.
The Pragmatist feels comfortable with practical, versatile clothes with classic
tailoring. Her blouses might have convertible collars, her jackets are usually
blazers,
and her
tified
modified
skirts are
geometries or paisleys.
in their slimness. If she
with the role of Faye
Dunaway
in the
pieces
The
on page
L and
and give her a
that she can
wear
an
artist,
If
comfortable
totally
She
would be her choice

Capsule on page
may be
collarless so
She tends to
solid colors
for a career.
19, jacket
The
if
she were
A painter,
Individualist
would be
A sweater K blouse skirt

I
D.
takes a contemporary approach to her clothing, preferring looks
She enjoys seeing the trends
wrap her waist
may
wear the
to carry off her favorite
would admire Isadora Duncan,
experiment with the ideas of designers. She
her jackets,
contemporary
model from the pages
fashion photographer, like the
C blouse J skirt
in fashion
may pad
magazines, and
her shoulders, belt
to give her clothing the latest look, or experiment with
see herself as the
Slims, as a fashion
Jacket
likely
and she may choose one color or one accent as
she were a dancer, she
that are fashion forward.
color.
enough
unique look. Her blouses
different scarves or unusual necklaces.
in the
The Modernist
likes to
she were in a
if
of the Year. Ex-
Louise Nevelson, and as a fashion leader, Diana Vreeland.
writer, or a chef
they are
jacket C, to reflect her business image.
to set off her favorite acquisitions,
her signature.
Woman
banker are the careers she might choose. She'd
19, dress
Individualist prefers fashions that are simple
accessories
prints,
movie, Network, and
movie, a play, or the corporate world, she'd be the

ecutive, lawyer or
wears
she wears any accessories, they are the basics. She iden-
If
title
of
woman
in the
ads for Virginia
Vogue or Bazaar, or even
role in Eyes of
Laura Mars. She's
F from the Capsule on page 19.
as the
likely to
wear
Chapter 8
PLANNING
YOUR CAPSULE
I, Capsule Concept
as
many
dresses) as
another
only
he
provides flexibility so that you have
pieces in each category (skirts, pants, jackets, blouses, sweaters,
you
may
skirts,
like.
While one twelve piece Capsule may have one
include two, and another
while another
your preferences.
may
may have
include pants.
three.
jacket,
One Capsule may have
Your Capsules should
reflect
A variety of charts have been included in this Chapter so that
you may work out
different Capsules based
on your own needs.
Working Capsule
Will
work with
/.
Working Capsule
Will
work with
Evening Capsule
Will
work with
Three
Day
Travel Capsule
Trip
One-Week Convention
Travel Capsule
Capsule
Shoes
Handbag
Briefcase
Belts
Scarves*
Watch
Earrings
Necklace
Bracelet
Index
INDEX
A
Color
Abraham &
Straus,
165
Accessories, 34, 36, 40, 48, 54, 60-91,
125-126, 132- 133, 135, 142, 145-146,

151, 158, 160
Conde
Profile,
Quiz, 40-41
Nast, 57
Cosmetics, 52-53, 69, 151
Adolfo, 110
Dickstein, Barbara, 97, 99
159
Armani, Giorgio, 94
Art, wearable, 86
DiGiacomo, Mary, 106, 175

Dior, Christian, 94
Ardert, Elizabeth,
Beene, Geoffrey, 61, 100
Duncan, Isadora, 71
Working Wardrobe
Handbags, 34, 36, 40, 50, 58, 61-63, 69-
70, 81, 89, 106, 125, 133, 141, 151,
McFadden, Mary, 56
158
Magazines, Fashion, 164
& Garden
House
Magazine, 55
Harper's Bazaar Magazine, 131
Mademoiselle Magazine, 132
Vogue Magazine, 43
Makeovers, 32, 34, 38, 48, 64, 66,
Image, 93-114
102, 104, 120, 122, 147, 149, 166, 168
Business, 30-32, 34, 38, 42-50, 71,
Makeup, 52-53, 144
93-96, 102
Marshall Field
Nobility, 97
Power, 112-114
Profile,
Co., 165
Merriman, Hanne, 55, 58-5 c

Milan, 60, 141, 142, 143
Missoni, 94, 142
Quiz, 106-107
Social Status, 97-104
108-111
Public, 95,
&
Maxim's, 29
Television, 160
Irka,
59
Necklaces, 48, 61, 81, 86, 108, 125, 142,

145, 151, 161
Jewelry, 48, 63-67, 80-81, 86-87, 101,
New
York Times, 140
108, 112, 125-126, 132-135, 142,
144-145, 151, 160

Jones of N.Y., 94
Pantyhose, 58, 61, 89

Paris, 29, 60, 141,
143
Parson, Trisha, 93
Karan, Donna, 80
Pearls, 81, 86, 125, 142,
Kieselstein-Cord, Barry, 101
Peretti, Elsa,
Kindel,
Picasso, Paloma, 101
Maureen, 112-114
160
Kissinger,
Henry, 97
Pins,
Kissinger,
Nancy, 97, 172
Pucci, Emilio,
Klein,
Anne &
99
Co., 28, 59, 61, 80, 100
Klein, Calvin, 59, 61, 94, 100, 111,

Knits,
145
101
132
110
R
Reagan, Nancy, 108-111
Roberts, Dot, 89-91
I
Lane, Kenneth Jay, 126
Lauren, Ralph, 59
Lesser, Tina,
Levis,
99
100
Luggage, 139-144, 146, 151-152

Luggage, carry-on, 141, 144, 146, 151
Luggage, hanging bag, 151, 158, 160
Sadat,
Anwar, 143
Saks Fifth Avenue, 69

Samuels, Susan, 134-136
Sawyer, Diane, 160-161

Scarves, 34, 48, 61-63, 66, 71-79, 81,
87-89, 104, 125, 145, 151, 158-161
Index
Shaker,
177
Serfaty, Gail,
Mona, 86-88
Tiffany's, 101
Shoes, 34, 36, 40, 48, 58, 61-69, 81, 88,
Travel
89, 125, 135, 141-142, 146, 151, 158
Itinerary, 140,
159
Shoppers, Personal, 165
Overnight, 132
Shopping, 163-180
Alterations, 173-174
Packing, 151-152
Dressing Rooms, 170

Fit,
Jane,
69
171-173, 175
Pockets, 171
Sales,
174-175, 176
Vuitton, Louis, 100
Silverman, Linda, 96
Smithsonian
Institution,
97
Sotheby's, 96
Sportwhirl, 99
St.
Weather, 140
Tuman,
Laurent, Yves, 87, 94
Stahl, Leslie,
Women, American
72
Style, Personal,
W
Watches, 48, 80, 81, 125, 142
Wilson, Trisha, 157-159
185
Wragge, B.H., 99
Council
of,
157
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131
Discover die Capsule Concept,
You Choose 12 Clothing Pieces

in
2 Colors;
You Get 40 Combinations:

a Different Outfit Every Day
for 8 Weeks!
Learn how to:

Coordinate colors,
Mix & match jackets,
fabrics,
shapes
skirts, blouses,
sweaters, dresses
Build
upon and organize what you
already
own
Add flexibility to your wardrobe for

both day and night
Ada pt the capsule concept to your
personal lifestyle
Revitalize your image
Noted designer and fashion director

Janet Wallach shows you how you can:
Select styles that
fit
your taste and
figure
Avoid fads, yet not become trapped

"uniform"
in a
Buy
all-season, natural fibers for year-
round efficiency
Additional tips on:
Evening wear
Sensible travel wardrobes
Versatile accessories
Shopping know-how
Creating several capsules
Working Wardrobe
is
your key
to looking better, feeling
more con-
fident and moving up in social

and business life.
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Working Wartlike

How to more than triple your wardrobe with

Affordable Clothes That Wbrk For You!

A Warner Communications Company

Warner Books Edition

All rights reserved.

This Warner Books Edition is published by arrangement

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^9 A Warner Communications Company

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Photos by David Neely, Photo Concepts

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Wallach, Janet, 1942Working wardrobe.

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ARE THERE WARNER BOOKS YOU WANT

JYly gratitude to the

appreciation and thanks to Kathleen

understanding, guidance, and good

their artistic direction

people whose interest and

Hughes and Laurie Tag for their

Susan Samuels for her encouragement and support.

Joan Carl, Barbara Dickstein,

Sawyer, Gail Serfaty, Linda Silverman, and Trisha Wilson.

The Image of Success

What Your Clothing Says About You

Three Decades of Fashion

The Evening Capsule

Real People: Lenore Benson

The Travel Capsule

Own Travel Capsule

Real People: Trisha Wilson

Shopping With A Plan

Planning Your Capsule

Your Individual Style

orking Wardrobe will help any

front of her closet

woman who stands in

haven't a thing to wear."

frustrating than a closet full of clothes, yet nothing that

for play, office time, travel time or

woman can save time and money if she's bought her

What can be more

works with anything

week, year to year. The key to Working Wardrobe

basis of color, fabric

separate clothing components on the

and shape. Working Wardrobe

together like the interchangeable pieces of an interlock-

show you how

each explanatory chapter

used in practice as well as in

followed by profiles of a number of

work. All of them see

their personal style. All of

their clothing as a reflection of

she makes her wardrobe

they dress to the kind of