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The War Tourist Magazine is issued by www.wartourist.eu • Reprint only with permission • No.

3 • February 2009 • Theme Issue

The mighty
GUNS at
HANSTHOLM and
KRISTIANSAND
New TWT layout
As you will notice, the TWT has a new layout. “Again!”, you’ll The Skagerak
probably say; “-three issues, three different layouts; why
can’t this guy make up his mind?”
Gatekeepers, page 4
Fair question, and perhaps we will get there eventually, but
for the time being, I am keen on experimenting. The TWT Visiting
is still in its early infancy, and as with any toddler, new and
exciting things happen almost every day ;-) Hanstholm, page 8

One thing is fairly sure, the Coat-of-Arms or Crest you see


in the upper left corner is here to stay (or so I think ;-) We’ll Visiting
Kristiansand,
need some sort of logo to signal that; “Hey, here is the TWT.
Cool..!” page 11

The issue you have in front of you is also special in the


sense that it concerns itself almost entirely with one topic,
namely the two mighty fortresses that guarded the entrance
The mighty
to the Skagerrak. I have been wanting to do this article for a
long time, so... here we go! Enjoy...
Tirpitz guns, page 12
Rommel, the mason
the campaign made a court crushing them on the beaches the Allied rapidly advanced
martial (as considered by Hoth), during attempted landfall. With inland and after a few days were
or even a reprimand, impossible. that in mind, the Normandy beach unstoppable for the insufficient and

of the Atlantic Wall


It was, however, primarily during became his “Hauptkampflinie” – the overstretched German forces.
his service in Africa that Rommel main battle line - and fortifications
achieved the nimbus of an and obstacles were designed and On his way back from a meeting
outstanding – almost invincible erected to support that tactic. His with Hitler in his forward HQ on
Erwin Johannes Eugen Rommel was After the war Rommel became - tank commander, earning him boyhood engineering skills came in July 17th 1944, Rommel’s staff car
born in Heidenheim, Germany, near an instructor at the Dresden the flamboyant nickname he is handy as he toiled to make the best was strafed by an RCAF fighter, and
Ulm, in the state of Württemberg Infantry School from and the remembered by; The Desert Fox. out of sparse resources, and e.g. the Field Marshal was hospitalized
on November 15, 1891. His father War Academy in Potsdam from his infamous “Rommel’s asparagus” with severe head injuries. While
was a Protestant headmaster of 1929 to 1938. During that period Rommel in Normandy should prove themselves deadly to recovering, he on several occasions
the secondary school at Aalen. The he published what was originally Recalled to Germany by Hitler many Allied soldiers during D-Day. rather bluntly expressed his dismay
Rommels had three more children, his war diary. Titled; “Infanterie before the final disaster in Africa with the Führer and the way he was
two sons, Karl and Gerhard, and greift an” (Infantry Attacks), this waging the war; a carelessness that
a daughter, Helene. Little Erwin quickly became a highly regarded later should prove fatal, as it was
had to his own account a happy military textbook, and attracted the overheard and reported by local
childhood. He was interested in attention of Adolf Hitler. Nazis.
mechanics and engineering, and at
the age of fourteen, he built a full- Rommel, now a colonel, was Following the failed plot against
scale, operational glider together appointed commandant of the War Adolf Hitler only three days after
with a friend. This technical Academy at the Theresian Military Rommel’s incident, a widespread
Portrait: Field Marshal Erwin Rommel, aptitude steered young Erwin Academy in 1938. He wrote a investigation was conducted
courtesy Wikipedia (Deutsches Bundesarchiv, towards becoming an engineer, but second handbook; “Panzer greift
for non-commercial use).
to identify the instigators and
at his father’s insistence, he joined an” (The Tank in Attack), a book supporters. Some of the coup
A word from the editor... a local Infantry Regiment in 1910 as that even renowned US Panzer ringleaders’ documentation
The February issue of The War Tourist, which an officer cadet and proceeded to Ace, George Patton, read and mentioned Rommel as a potential
you have in front of you, turned out to be the Officer Cadet School in Danzig. acclaimed. After a relatively brief supporter and an acceptable
a special or “Theme Issue” as mentioned period at the school, Rommel was military leader take charge after a
on the front. As you will note, all the usual In 1911, while still a Cadet, Rommel handpicked to take command of successful coup. No evidence linked
stuff; the editorial, details, E&OE, rating met 17-year-old Lucia Maria Mollin Adolf Hitler’s personal protection Rommel to the plot, nor that he had
system*, website of the month, news etc. who was to become his wife. battalion (Führer Begleitbataillon). could taint his image, Rommel To the question of tank support, been contacted by any of the plot
has been left out to cater for the lengthy Graduating in November 1911 he During this period he met Joseph idled for a period. He was finally Rommel argued, that due to ringleaders, but in the paranoid
article on Hanstholm and Kristiansand. was commissioned as a Lieutenant Goebbels, the Reich’s minister of given command of a newly formed overwhelming dominance by the Führer entourage, suspicion was
Furthermore, the article on Rommel came as on January 1912 and four years propaganda, who would become Army Group B, assigned to defend Allied in the air, tank forces should more than enough.
an afterthought and consequently delayed later, in 1916, he married Lucie (her a fanatical admirer of Rommel, Northern Italy, but after General be split up in smaller units and
the publishing. Reason for this is that I aim pet name). In 1928 the couple had tirelessly exploiting the model Albert Kesselring assumed sole dwell in heavily fortified positions On October 14th Rommel was
to write a series of articles on Danish coastal
their only child, a son, Manfred, soldier’s victories in the propaganda Italian command late November 43, as close to the coast as possible. approached by generals Meisel
batteries while traveling the west coast this
who would later become the Lord after the outbreak of WW2. Rommel moved the Army Group to As the Allied onslaught began, & Burgdorf, delivering the death
summer and thus found it appropriate to
start with a few words about the “mason” or Mayor of Stuttgart (1974-96). Normandy, France, where an Allied they would not have to move far sentence and conveniently bringing
architect behind this epic structure. World War Two invasion had long been expected. in long, vulnerable columns. Gerd the necessary poison vial. As a
World War One After the Polish surrender, Rommel Following an inspection tour along von Rundstedt, his superior, on his national hero, Rommel was to be
Anyway, here you have your TWT. Hope you
are happy with it, and if so; pass the good Rommel, now serving in the elite returned to Berlin to organise the the entire Atlantic coast and finding part feared that the overwhelming spared the humiliation of a public
news (and the link) on to your friends ;-) Alpen Korps (Mountain Corps), Führer’s victory parade, taking part it little more than a mere garden firepower of the Royal Navy would trial and granted a hero’s funeral
saw action in France, as well as in himself as a member of Hitler’s fence full of holes, he was utterly destroy any shelter no matter how – provided he took the offered
Romania and Italy during the Great entourage. Rommel then used his dismayed and wrote a critical report well built. He believed that the few cyanide post haste. Despite the
Not a member yet..? War. He soon gained a reputation good relationship with Hitler to to Hitler, who in turn put Rommel in tanks available should be formed heroic offer from his Aide de
for quick tactical decisions and gain command of the 7th Panzer charge of the repairs. into large units inland, allowing the Champ, Captain Aldinger, that they
The War Tourist Group for taking advantage of enemy Division. During the invasion of Allies to overextend their forces into could try to shoot their way out,
on facebook and plaxo perplexity following an attack. France and the Low Countries in Throughout the winter of 1943 France before the panzer cut them Rommel immediately realized that
are rendezvous points for Three times on the stretcher with 1940, Rommel showed considerable and the early months of 44, he off from their supply lines. Hitler, the race was over and he had to
the seasoned devotee of battlefield wounds, he was awarded skill as a panzer commander, worked tirelessly on this, knowing whose “intuition” told him, that the comply with his Führer’s command.
battlefield sightseeing the Iron Cross twice; First and wading high-speed through the that the boasting charades of Dr. landings would take place at Pas de He kissed Lucie goodbye, hugged
and touring the great Second Class, but industrious Erwin bewildered enemy. His division Goebbels about an impregnable Calais, vacillated, and ended up by his 16-year old son Manfred and
fortifications throughout
also managed to gain the highest was thus nicknamed “Gespenster- Atlantic Wall would not fend off an placing the tanks somewhere in the drove off in his callers car.
history, focusing on the two World Wars. It is
medal Prussia could muster; the Divisionen” (Ghost Division), due invasion on their own, and that middle, where they were of little
a place for war history cadres to meet, and
to share photos, data and links to places of Pour le Mérite – not the everyday to its speed and surprise; 7th when invasion came, the German use to either plan. Ten minutes later, the Field Marshal
interest. “Knowledge not shared is lost” as decoration for a mere lieutenant. Panzer e.g. captured the vital forces could not hope to match was dead.
the saying goes, so discussions should thrive The high award – presented to him port of Cherbourg on June 19th. the overwhelming weight of arms D-Day Sources:
here, for mutual benefit. by the Emperor himself - came as a Although often misappropriating the presented by the Allied. His simple As it turned out, Rommel was right “Rommel in Normandy”, Friederich Ruge, 1979
Members receive the TWT Magazine in result of the capture of 150 Italian supplies of neighboring divisions, conclusion was that the only and the invasion did take place on “Erwin Rommel”, Wikipedia ( Link )
their mailbox six times per annum and are officers, 7,000 men and 81 pieces in order to keep up the pace (and option with any hope of success the beaches of Normandy. Allowed Background: Rommel in Africa, courtesy
encouraged to contribute with their own of artillery at the fortress of Mount thus angering his superiors), the would be to deny the invaders to secure a beachhead within hours Wikipedia Commons
articles and photos. Matajur, Slovenia. fame gained by Rommel during establishing a bridgehead at all, due to lack of efficient resistance, Above: Rommel in Normandy, courtesy LIFE
Magazine (non-commercial use)

/16 /16
The Skagerrak
convinced him, that the era of the
battleship was coming to an end
(in which he was right), losing
ground to aircraft carriers, of which

gatekeepers
Germany had none. Consequently,
feeling that their impressive
armament was more effectively
employed in coastal defense, he, in
1943, ordered all major fleet units
“paid off” and the focus shifted to
submarine warfare. Several guns
that were originally ordered for
Following the invasion of Norway and places a formidable obstacle and a upgrading of lighter battleships, as
Stretching from Norway to the
Denmark on April 9th 1940, it was Pyrenees; Hitler’s Atlantic Wall deterrence to any attacker. well as entire turrets cannibalized
important for the occupiers rapidly from decommissioned ships,
to seal off the entrance to internal Also the west coast of the Jutland hereafter entered service in this
waters between the two countries, peninsula, mainland of the small land-based role.
primarily to protect the transport Danish nation, received its
of troops and material to Norway. generous share of concrete in the A number of locations in Denmark
As a bonus, this denial of access shape of thousands of bunkers, were initially appointed to receive
to allied naval forces would later, counting gun emplacements, heavy batteries, including
in conjunction with the subsequent radar bunkers, ammunition- and
conquest of Russian territory, also crew compartments, storage
render the Baltic a German inland bunkers, command bunkers, field
sea. hospitals; you name it. Most of
them remain visible to this day. The
Thus, in the wee hours on the crucial entrance to the Skagerrak
invasion day, the Kriegsmarine was subject to special attention,
saturated the Skagerrak with requiring two mighty fortresses
mines and only a day later, a to be erected at Hanstholm in
mobile battery placed at Hanstholm Denmark and outside Kristiansand
provided artillery coverage to in Norway. These locations were
a narrow passageway in the chosen for their proximity; at this
minefield for German warships point the Skagerrak is just some
and submarines bound for high- swore to avoid – became even 118 km wide.
sea. In May this makeshift solution more adamant in reinforcing the Hanstholm, the tiny island of
was replaced by a permanent 17 garden fence of Fortress Europe. Battleships on land Laesoe in the Kattegat, Blaavand emplacements commenced in the square kilometers and comprising
cm battery, later to be known Issuing Führerweisung 40 in March Germany had never really been near Esbjerg and the island of fall of 1940 and was completed in 450+ bunkers, this was to become
as Hansted 1, reaching some 20 1942 and the order for the “15.000 Britain’s peer on the waves and Bornholm in the Baltic. As it turned 1941. Originally designed for 40.6 the largest fortified area in
kilometers off the Danish coast. bunker program”, the Atlantic the further demise of her naval out, Laesoe was given up, but gun cm (16 inch) guns, 38 cm (15 inch) Northern Europe.
Wall (so baptized by Goebbels) power through the loss of her emplacements in the form of huge pieces were eventually decided
However, in spite of these efforts was born. Although somewhat greatest battleships; the Graf Spee bunkers were built at Blaavand and upon and installed in the spring At Moevik, west of Kristiansand,
an intermezzo unfolded in April oversold in Nazi propaganda as (December 1939), the Sharnhorst on Bornholm. However, in the end of 1941. Guns no. 3 and 4 were the battery had to be carved into
1940 as three French torpedo an impenetrable 5000 kilometer (December 1943), the Gneisenau only Hanstholm was ever to receive test-fired in May 1941 and no. 1 solid rock, a backbreaking job that
boats managed to penetrate the long wall of concrete and steel, (February 1942), and most notably, guns and become operational. and 2 in August. Thus, with a slight was carried out by workers from
barrier and engage in a skirmish bristling with artillery and manned from a propaganda point of view, delay to schedule, the battery was Norway, Denmark and Germany.
with German naval forces. Although by crack SS troops (a far cry from the mighty Bismarck (May 1941), At this site construction of the pronounced serviceable in the fall In 1942, they were joined by
actual damage was minimal, the the truth), this “wall” was in some rendered Hitler disappointed and four 3000 square meter gun of 1941. Covering more than nine Russian slave laborers. Four gun
incident added weight to the emplacements were commissioned
Führer’s wishes for heavy batteries for this battery too, but only three
to be placed on either side of the guns were ever installed. Two of the
narrow strait, capable of effectively guns were pronounced serviceable
fending off even major enemy in May 1942, the third in November.
vessels. The fourth gun, however, was to
be installed in a huge casemate
As the onslaught on Russia in June that took a long time to build. Most
1941 failed to deliver the expected parts were installed by late 1944,
quick victory, war in the east but the 110 ton barrel, while being
progressed, and in 1942, with USA transported on the vessel Porto
engaged in the war, the tide turned Alegra, was sunk February 1945 in
in disfavor of the Wehrmacht on the Kattegat by a British fighter.
all major battlefields. Hitler – now
facing the dreaded two-front war Left: Regelbau 671 gun bunker at Hirtshals.
on the European mainland he once Secondary armament twin turret (150 mm) from the Gneisenau. Now at Stevnsfortet Huge “cathedral” bunker at Mövik. Note people in yellow wests inside the bunker. Above: The Tirpitz with elevated guns.
Courtesy: Wikipedia Commons

/16 /16
The guns installed were originally
produced to upgrade the 28 cm (11
How big is a 15 inch gun really? Well, you’re looking one in the eye right now... Life in these refugee camps was
demanding; little room, poor
inch) battle cruisers Scharnhorst facilities, shabby workmanship of
The background photo is the muzzle of the remaining 15 inch gun at Mövik outside Kristiansand in scale 1:1
and Gneisenau. As they were the barracks and no work for the
never installed on the ships, actual men. All in all, the Hansted families
turrets were not produced and 800 kilogram shell might result in the protruding point where the longer do business, workers could to some extend suffered social
entering service as land-based damages, even collapses. However peninsula of Jutland curves inwards, not go looking for employment downfall but also – reportedly
artillery, special “land turrets” nothing dramatically happened creating the Vigsoe Bight, whereas and there were rumors of a curfew – experienced a new solidarity
were designed. Most notably, these and for future test firing it was today it has become synonymous running; life in Hansted certainly with neighbors. Post-war, the
turrets had very modest armor considered sufficient if residents with the town itself. had changed, and not for the better. dismantling of German installations,
(50 mm) offering protection only opened up their windows. Batterie the clean-up and mine sweeping
to splinters and small caliber fire Vara at Moevik, situated some eight In 1940, this fishing village, The winter 1940-41 was cold and made it 1946 before the residents
and with limited automation of the kilometers outside Kristiansand, did home to some 800 farmers snowy and on several occasions, could return to their now ravaged
munitions transport and loading not have that problem. and fishermen, was known as work on the fortifications, town. In the end, only some 500
system. Hansted. With the arrival of large especially pouring of concrete, had out of originally more than 800
garrisons from Wehrmacht and to be postponed. A considerable returned.
Kriegsmarine, its population grew workforce was applied to clear
Above: Abandoned cement mixer at
by the thousands and life changed Kristiansand Kanonmuseum the road Thisted-Hanstholm as The areas today
forever for the rural community. well as the work site itself for Hanstholm today is a thriving
Initially coexistence was practiced April, large quantities of weapons snow. As winter yielded, work on community with more than 3000
with reasonable ease, judging and material were transported the fortifications was reassumed, residents. After much continued
from a local journalist’s diary; the from Thisted to Hansted, so it culminating with the test firing of debate, the harbor was eventually
villagers went about their business must have seemed obvious to the first two 38 cm guns in May. finished in 1967 and is today one
like before and the invaders everyone that something major Work continued over the summer, of the most important fishing and
reportedly behaved courteously was going to happen here. The but came to an end in August 41 transport centers in Denmark.
and tried to mollify the locals with tension apparently softened where heavy equipment again could
sports arrangements and the like. somewhat during the month of be observed on the highway, just The huge guns were dismantled
However, the mere presence of a May as the German fear of British going the other way. Rumor had it, and cut up for scrap in the early
large contingent of foreign troops countermeasures faded, and that it was shipped to Norway. 1950ties and the whole area
and up to two thousand Danish much of the troops and weaponry abandoned and left to itself.
workers obviously did have a was retracted again during the Deportation
shattering impact on this small summer, but activity climbed again One year later, in November 1942, The Museumscenter Hanstholm is
Both batteries in action, the Life in the village of society that had developed almost in the fall as huge truckloads of and coinciding with a sudden OKW beyond comparison the most
Skagerrak strait between Norway Hansted during occupation entirely from organic growth the gravel, sand and cement filled the order to stop the construction work comprehensive and well presented
and Denmark could be taken under In the Stone Age, sea level was past couple of centuries; school road from Thisted to Hanstholm, on Hanstholm harbor and clear the of its kind in Denmark. Besides the
radar-guided fire in a distance up several meters higher than today, rooms commandeered, access clearly indicating that preparations building site for all scaffolding and impressive, fully refurbished 3000
to 55 kilometers off the coast, and Hanstholm was at that time roads cut off, massive quartering of for massive construction works machinery, the relative calm was square meter exhibition bunker, the
thus covering the major distance one of many small islands (“holm” troops, farm land expropriated etc., were taken. The journalist had an over for the people of Hansted as it area comprises a variety of bunkers
between the two countries - at this meaning islet) later to become and – symbolic for the situation opportunity to accompany the local was decided to evacuate (or rather; of most known Regelbau types,
narrow point some 118 kilometers. the undulating part of the coast one might say - the lighthouse shut Mayor to the building site, where he deport) the entire population. The many already accessible to the
That left an eight kilometer wide as it appears today. From the down. counted 22 heavy cement mixers reason was the German desire public and more being unearthed
zone in the middle to be protected earliest days and up to the time in action and estimated some 800 to make Hanstholm a secluded every year. The original munitions
by mine fields, not an easy task of the German occupation, the Construction work commences workers employed. Also, he was military facility, with full right of train used to transport the mighty
as this stretch of water runs deep name Hanstholm thus referred to From the outset and throughout awestruck to see 15 meter deep disposal over town dwellings and shells is available for a joyride that
– some 700 meters at the deepest. holes excavated for the heavy freed of any obligation to feed will take you through the typical
gun platforms and the amount of the villagers in case of a siege. west coast landscape as well as the
The guns of Hanstholm and reinforced concrete used. From Even the church was closed and two-storey ammunition bunkers,
Kristiansand have never been the same source we know, that reopened only on special occasions and the documentation center is
fired in anger, but test-fired on the first gun barrel arrived on April e.g. at funerals where the spouse of a well of information for the war
several occasions. During the first 11th 1941 and two more on April the departed was already interred tourist.
trials in Denmark, the residents of 23rd, a fact hard to conceal as the at the cemetery.
the Hansted fishing village were 21 meter, 110 ton barrels had to On the Norwegian side, the
instructed to leave their houses be transported through Thisted on The families had a few weeks to find Kristiansand Kanonmuseum (Gun
as it was feared that the blast large 24 wheel block trucks. relocation, which some did in the museum of Kristiansand) can brag
wave and tremor from the passing town of Hirtshals whilst the majority of one complete (and allegedly
Mid December 1940, North and had to move into hastily erected functioning) gun turret, and a
Top: The remaining 38 cm gun turret at Mövik, West Jutland was declared a war barracks in nearby settlement of huge sheltered gun emplacement
Kristiansand. zone and freedom of movement Raehr, where many remained for standing 15 meters tall surrounded
Right: Bunker construction at 10. Battery,
Hirtshals. heavily restricted. Traveling the duration of the war. by the beautiful Norwegian nature.
Photo courtesy of Tonny B. Jensen, Hirtshals entertainers and salesmen could no On Sundays, the mighty gun is

/16 /16
Museumscenter
operated, turning and elevated (but
not fired).

Hanstholm
A really successful trip should
embrace both locations - which has
become a little more impractical
since the Hanstholm - Kristiansand
ferry stopped. Today you will have
to go via Hirtshals. Accommodation
can be found at all price levels in
Hanstholm, from the modest, but
clean and affordable Soemandshjem
(Sailor’s Home) to the more
exclusive Montra Hotel.

Sources:
“The evacuation of Hansted”, Jens Andersen on
www.museumscenterhanstholm.dk ( Link )
“Krigsdagbog” (War Dairy), Clemmen
Brunsgaard, 1995, in Danish (PDF Link )
“Hanstholmfæstningen” (Fortress Hanstholm),
Bent B. Anthonisen, 1985, Danish/German

Visiting Museumscenter as three of those waiting in vane


Hanstholm for installation at Oksby were cut
In Denmark, post-war efforts to scrap after the war, leaving Regelbau S75/80 bunker. Drawing courtesy of Rudi Rolf. See “German bunkers in Denmark” by Jens Andersen & Rudi Rolf, p. 57 for full legend
to demolish the heavy bunkers only one surviving barrel at the
along the west coast largely Royal Danish Arsenal Museum with the 3000 square meter gun by Mauser for the German Navy for remarkable weapon, capable of
turned out futile and thus the in Copenhagen. In 2005 it was emplacement, is yours to roam, use against low-altitude aircrafts. firing up to 120, 5 cm grenades
country is something of a bunker- transported to Hanstholm and and there is a lot to see. Several This effective gun was used per minute and thus saturating its
heaven today. With 450+ concrete now stands as a landmark at the guns are on display in the museum extensively both on ships as well surroundings, had been rusting
installations, Hanstholm is an museum center. In the museum itself, e.g. one of the much used as in fortifications and was much in a bunker near Agger, subject
excellent example of this. lobby a large scale model gives you German “Flak-Vierling”, a 20 mm feared for its firepower. to the elements for 60+ years.
some impression of how a gun pit AA gun with four barrels developed It was removed from its 39 ton
Notably are the four large looked when the guns were still in There is also a German 3.7 cm PAK armored dome and transported to
Sonderkonstruktione (Special place. The lobby also has also an (anti-tank gun), model 1934 and the museum where volunteers have
construction) S75/80, which information counter with a Shoppe produced by the Skoda Works in used a long time to restore it, but
(books & gifts) and an indoor rest Czechoslovakia. Proving ineffective as one will see from the photos on
area where you can bring a food against heavy enemy tanks, their website, it’s a job well done.
The distance between the two batteris was hamper. production of this gun was halted
some 120 kilometers. As the maximum range in 1941 in favor of more powerful Uniforms and stuff
of the 38 cm guns was some 55 kilometers Guns a plenty weapons, e.g. the 7.5 PAK gun In another section of the museum
- and the accuracy at maximum range was Having paid your admission, produced in more than 23.000 an array of hand guns along with
rather poor (+/- 400 meter), the central part
the museum, which is built on units from 1942 and onwards to the various uniforms used by different
of the Skagerrak was protected by a large
top of and partly in conjunction end of the War. Also the Russian branches of the German armed
minefield. Thus the area that the guns should
protect was narrowed down to a 10-20 km 4.5 cm PAK which was captured in forces are on display.
strip along each coast. once supported the 38 cm guns, large quantities during Operation
although the guns themselves Barbarossa and thus saw service The bunker
are long gone. Initially it was in the Wehrmacht is represented As we descend from the museum
Factbox contemplated whether these mighty here. Several larger guns are into the bunker, temperature
Place: Museumscenter Hanstholm, weapons could find post-war use in displayed outside the museum, e.g. changes markedly. Summer or
Hanstholm, Denmark Danish coastal defense, now facing the famous 1931, long-barreled winter, a constant temperature of
Phone: +45 97 96 17 36 eastwards as the political scenario 122 mm Pushka, a Russian artillery 8-10 degree Celsius is predominant
E-mail: MCHkanon@post8.tele.dk had changed, but eventually, in piece easily recognizable on its here. Although this can be very
Web: http://www. the early 1950ties, the idea was vertical equilibrators, which was blissful on a hot summer’s day, do
museumscenterhanstholm.dk abandoned. used in many locations along the remember a sweater or you may
Opening days: February-September. Danish part of the Atlantic Wall. find your visit somewhat chilly.
Arriving to Museumscenter
Opening hours: See website
Hanstholm the first thing that Finally, to top off the gun section,
Admission: Open Air Museum is free.
meets the eye is the huge 21 meter the museum recently put a very
Museum: See website
barrel of a “Bismarck” gun. The well restored specimen on display;
Bus from Thisted: Route 23. Itinerary: here four guns at Hanstholm as well an automatic M19 mortar. This
Required gear: Flashlight, head lamp,
sturdy shoes or boots. Use caution in derelict Top Left: Charge room. Apparatus for loading.
Top: The 20 meter long, 380 mm barrel of the
bunkers! Helmet is advisable. Bismarck-class battleships. Fire-proof hatch in background.
Left: Shell room. Crane for shell transport.
RATING: ♥ ♥♥♥♥ Above: A scale model of the gun.
Right: German Flak-Vierling. Right: Trolly for ammo transport to lift.

/16 /16
Batterie
Upon our descending, we find bunker, that also had the necessary Visiting Kristiansand
ourselves in the ammunition amenities to accommodate the Kanonmuseum
delivery tunnel; note the narrow troops.
gauge railway tracks in the floor. By and large the battery outside

Vara/Moevik
Grenades and charge canisters First room on our right, just after Kristiansand is comparable to
were transported by train from the air lock is the heed (58). Next that in Hanstholm, but there are
surrounding ammunition bunkers. rooms (3) are crew quarters, some also differences. Most notably of
The gun bunker is really two units brought back to near-original looks course is geography and geology.
put together, the S75 ammunition with bunks and wooden furniture, Norway is a mountainous country,
storage and the S80 machine and and all are neatly painted in what tremendously beautiful but must
operations facility with the gun pit must be original colors. be a builder’s nightmare as there
in the middle. the trolley used to cart shells and are very few flat and even surfaces.
charges to the ammunition elevator Making a left turn we are passing Thus whether you want to build a
First stop on our tour is in the and recall that as this is a land the original main entrance (1) mere doghouse here or – in this
charge rooms (12). The large turret, a paternoster conveyor and half way down the corridor to case – a coastal battery, the answer
gunpowder charges, wrapped in lift system as used in battleships is our right. The other rooms to the is always the same; pickaxes and
textile bags, were transported not applicable here. right are more crew quarters, the dynamite. On the positive side, your
and kept in steel canisters prior Commandants room (39) and a bunker will not be undermined by
to use, and once loaded the brass As the gun turret itself has been guards’ room (107). Turning left the waves and migrate into the sea
cartridges were delivered to the removed, so has the ammo lift. We again we see more crew quarters, as in so many places in Denmark.
gun through a fire-proof hatch. will take a closer look at this when non-commissioned officers’ room
The gun could shoot with various we get to Kristiansand. (33) and the sergeant’s room (108) Battery Vara (named after a general
charges depending on the shell as we exit the living quarters. who died during construction),
applied and the desired range. Across the gun pit we enter into the or Moevik Fort as it was named
operations and maintenance section Entering the air lock (1), a staircase during its service in Norwegian
Next is the shell rooms (11), holding and the crew quarters. Each gun, leads up to another exit. Note the Armed Forces, is situated on a
an equal number (160) of shells. and there were four of them, had a platform (in room 70), accessed by peninsula stretching out some
Two basic types were used; an 800 crew of some 90 people who lived, hand rungs, where a gun embrasure eight kilometers southwest of
kg armor piercing shell and a 500 slept and ate in the self-sufficient covers the entrance. Kristiansand, in Vest-Agder county.
kg explosive shell. With the latter, From the fort there is a clear view
a range of 55 km was achievable, In the core of the bunker is the over Skagerrak and reaching some
though with a limited accuracy on engine room with two diesel 55 kilometers out, the guns of Vara Regelbau S169 bunker. Drawing courtesy of Rudi Rolf. See “Atlantic Wall Typology” by Rudi Rolf, p.
max range (+/- 500 meters). Shell generators, pumps, cooling water, were – in conjunction with those in 26 for full legend
fuses were primed here and also a well for freshwater, heating, Hanstholm – almost able to seal off
the shells were delivered through a ventilation etc. Here are also the the strait. they are replicas, but if they are, gear. This exhibition continues
fire-proof hatch. showers (44). Post-war shortage it’s a job well done! Right inside through all charge and shell rooms,
of all kinds of building materials Like in Hanstholm, the battery was the entrance you will find the office and I will not spoil your visit by
The charge and shell rooms were compelled local residents to designed to comprise four 380 mm where admission is paid. They also meticulously going through it all,
duplicated for safety reasons and pillage the room for ceramic tiles, “Bismarck” guns, of which one was sell all kinds of WW2 stuff (even but limit myself to a few highlights
could hold up to 160 shots total for taps, fixtures etc, but thorough to be entombed in a giant bunker. German infantry rifles) and the and let the photos speak for
the gun. restoration has now taken place. The bunker was built, but the prices are very reasonable. You can themselves. More photos here.
gun never installed as the vessel also buy a soda or a beer and an
Leaving the S75 behind us we Top: Restored crew quarter with bunks. Yours Reentering the gun pit concludes transporting the 110 ton barrel was ice-cream for the kids. Firstly, the have the shells (empty,
truly with spouse resting their legs.
proceed into the ammunition isle this brief tour. Although the gun is attacked and sunk in the Kattegat I hope), the cartridges and the
Above: Amenities in the gun bunker.
encircling the gun pit. We will note missing, the sheer magnitude of the by a British airplane. hoisting gear – all in mint condition.
Below: A view of the gun pit from above.
pit, not least the two meter high It shows that this facility was in
concrete pivot in the center, gives Of the three remaining guns, two service until 1957 and thus avoided
some idea of just how big the turret were scrapped in 1962 when Moevik the pillaging and deterioration
was. Fort was finally decommissioned, that so many Danish bunkers were
and one remain in full operational subject to post-war.
For a full legend of the various state (well, almost, to the best
rooms, please see the books by of my knowledge, they have no Secondly, they have a lot of
Rudi Rolf and Jens Andersen, all ammo). The S169 bunker below it is interesting gear, e.g. a four-meter
obtainable (and more) from the well now a museum. stereoscopic rangefinder, the analog
supplied Museum Shoppe. computer to calculate firing data,
The bunker tools, weapons, uniforms and stuff.
A sketch of the gun and the original Krupp First thing that strikes you upon One particular interesting display
data sheet can be found on the website of entering the bunker is the high is the two huge shells that line
Museumscenter Hanstholm (Link) one of the door openings; one 380
preservation standard, right down
Sources: to the wall paintings with solemn Turning left into the first charge mm from Vara, and one 406 mm
“German Bunkers in Denmark”, Jens Andersen appeals; “Die Treue ist das Mark room (12) you are met with a from Batterie Trondenes at Harstad,
& Rudi Rolf, 2006 der Ehre” (Loyalty is the Badge of display of Nazi artifacts, e.g. they Norway. This being the worlds
“Atlantic Wall Typology”, Rudi Rolf, 1998 Honor) and stuff like that. There are still have the flag that flew over the largest remaining WW2 naval gun
“Fortress Hanstholm”, Bent Bågøe Anthonisen, battery during the war, and various
many of them, and I don’t know if
1985 Continued on page 15
10/16 11/16
The mighty
that the ships would be seized ship, commissioned on January
by the Royal Navy. For the next 19th and barely completed from
decade, German naval power was the shipyard. Manned with an
thus virtually non-existent. inexperienced crew - and even

Bismarck
civilian workers onboard, toiling
However, as early as in 1932, one with a malfunctioning ammunition
year prior to Hitler’s rise to power, conveyor system - she was really
the German government announced not yet fit to go head-to-head with

& Tirpitz
that it would no longer honor a Bismarck-class battleship.
the military restrictions imposed
on them, as the Allied powers The fight was short as both capital
themselves had failed to initiate the ships fired at maximum range (25
military cut-backs, called for in a km). After the exchange of a few
preamble to the treaty. salvos, a plunging 380 mm shell
from Bismarck penetrated Hood’s
Three years later - in 1935 and thin deck armor. It exploded in
With the introduction of the HMS Wilhelm II from major naval following a period of treaty her magazines, splitting the ship
Dreadnaught in 1906, the era of the engagements for the remainder violations, including clandestine 30-33 feet depending on the The Royal Navy, on their part, in two and Hood sank in three
mighty battleships was literally of the war, which made it sort of a weapons design efforts and load status. Twelve Wagner high- was determined to intercept this minutes, leaving only three survivors
jump-started. Sporting ten huge pyrrhic victory. training of e.g. pilots in Russia pressure boilers transferred menacing duo and thus fanned out out of 1418 hands. The Prince of
12 inch guns in twin turrets with - Adolf Hitler officially reintroduced 150.000 hp through three Blohm & their forces on the three possible Wales was hit seven times, and
electrically transmitted target Following the 1919 Versailles peace conscription in Germany and set off Voss turbines to 15 foot propeller escape routes. with several guns out of order and
data information and powered by treaty, Germany had to accept a massive rearmament program, blades, and sent the vessels flying unable to bring the battle against
steam turbines, this juggernaut a number of harsh restrictions embracing both the banned tanks with water skiing speed; up to 35 On May 23rd the two rogues were a superior enemy to a successful
outgunned, outsmarted and outran as to the manpower and military and airplanes as well as new, heavy mph. Range with full fuel tanks was spotted in the Denmark Strait by conclusion, she withdrew and
all previous battleships, rendering hardware of her armed forces. battleships. almost 10.000 miles (at 21 mph). the radar-equipped, 8 inch cruisers limped off while making smoke.
them mere “pre-dreadnaughts” in The victorious parties (especially HMS Suffolk and Norfolk. Fire was However, also the Bismarck had
a split second. A veritable arms France) were keen to hamstring These efforts were expressed Main armament consisted of eight exchanged, but seriously outgunned taken hits, most seriously a blow
race at sea started as every nation the 1914 aggressor, held sole i.e. in the 11 inch battle cruisers 380 mm L47 SK-C/34 naval guns the two Britons hastily withdrew to the hull underwater, causing the
with self-respect had to have one or responsible for the Great War, Scharnhorst and Gneisenau in twin turrets with a maximum out of range, shadowing the enemy forward 1000 ton fuel tank to leak.
more of these juggernauts. and to deflate her future military (30.000+ tons), both launched range of 34 miles and secondary while yelling for assistance over the This would later show crucial as the
capacity. Consequently, Germany in 1934, and the heavy 15 inch armament of sixteen 105 mm radio. trail of oil was easy to spot from the
battleships Bismarck and Tirpitz L65 SK-C/37. A number of 37 mm air.
with a displacement exceeding and 20 mm guns took care of air As it came about, two worthy
50.000 tons, following in 1939. Even defense. opponents were on the way; the Chase for the Bismarck
bigger ships, sporting 16 inch guns HMS Hood, armed with 15 inch The loss of the Hood reverberated
(40.6 cm), were on the drawing Battle of the Denmark Strait guns, and the 14 inch battleship, through the British nation and
board, and temporarily the Führer’s On May 19th, 1940, Bismarck left Prince of Wales. The “Mighty Hood”, provoked Churchill’s famous
feverish mind contemplated giants Gotenhafen (Gdynia), accompanied an elderly lady from 1920, was order; “Sink the Bismarck!” Every
with 20 inch guns (50.8 cm) only by the heavy (8 inch) cruiser actually more of a battle cruiser available unit was committed to the
until brought to his senses when Prinz Eugen, in order to sneak out than a battleship (the difference chase, including the aircraft carrier
informed by his engineers that it into the Atlantic Ocean where the being that armor is sacrificed for Victorious equipped with Swordfish
would require ships 300 meters couple was intended to prey on the speed), but she had been the pride biplanes. One of these managed to
long and weighing up to 120.000 convoys from the United States, of the Royal Navy since 1918. The score a hit on May 24th but did not
tons – a size no existing German so vital for the English war efforts. Prince of Wales was a brand new inflict serious damage. However, the
port could accommodate. violent evasive maneuvers taken by
Bismarck during the fight did break
Especially Imperial Germany made was not allowed to have an air Bismarck & Tirpitz up old wounds and eventually led to
strong efforts to cope with Britain, force nor a panzer corps and the Both the Bismarck and the Tirpitz flooding of her bow, causing a fifty
her old arch rival, and consequently army-on-foot was restricted to only were launched in 1939 (14th percent speed reduction.
embarked on an ambitious program 100.000 troops with conscription February and 1st April respectively),
to create a fleet of battleships that abolished. As to the naval forces, but had very different operational For some time the German warship
could match the British. At the Germany was allowed only six careers although their demises had was under surveillance, but in the
outbreak of World War One, both battleships and none with a comparable elements; though they morning of May 25th she managed
sides could thus muster ships of displacement greater than 10.000 were the largest warships in the to shake off her pursuers, tricking
25.000 ton displacement, armed tons, and six cruisers of a mere world at the time and considered them to search further north, and
with 15 inch guns. The two fleets 6000 tons plus twelve each of small almost impregnable, in the end they headed for sanctuary and repairs
clashed only once during the war; destroyers and torpedo boats. both had to yield to the airplane. in Brest, where she would be
at the battle of Jutland, in which protected by the Luftwaffe. The
both sides claimed victory. Fact Imminent to the signing of the Specifications were comparable Bismarck was reacquired on May
is that the Imperial Navy did sink treaty, the bulk of the Imperial except for details. Both ships 26th when a Catalina spotted her oil
more Royal Navy ships than they Kriegsmarine scuttled itself - while exceeded 820 feet in length, slick and reported to the Admiralty.
lost themselves, but fear of risking interred by the British at Scapa weighed more than 50.000 tons Out of range of her northern
Courtsey: All photos and illustrations on
his precious navy kept Emperor Flow - on June 21st, 1919 fearing fully loaded and had a draft of page 12-13 are in Wikipedia Commons. pursuers, the Royal Navy now

12/16 13/16
placed all their hopes on Force H, The aftermath allied convoy PQ17 in Operation Continued from page 11 remember that about two thirds sufficient only for one shift though.
racing northwards from Gibraltar. The demise of the mighty Bismarck Regenbogen (Operation Rainbow), of its length is concealed inside In an emergency, where all 52
not only crippled the German Navy, enraged the German Führer and on land, the shell weighs a stunning the turret. In contrast to i.e. the hands were needed in the bunker,
Force H but in a larger sense heralded the led to Admiral Raeders forced 1030 kg, equal to a small sedan. guns at Fortress Austraatt near hammocks were installed in the
Capital ship of Force H was retirement early in 1943. Die-hard Trondheim, this is a so-called corridor.
the aircraft carrier Ark Royal, Nazi, Karl Dönitz, was appointed Leaving the ammunition area “land turret” with an overall armor
accompanied by the old battleship Grand Admiral and supreme and entering the gun pit, we thickness of only 50 mm, designed The gun
Renown and the cruiser Sheffield. commander of the German fleet. immediately observe the difference only to protect the crew against This turret is BIG. Awesome,
Also Ark Royal was equipped Dönitz, being a submariner from Hanstholm. The first thing we splinters and small arms fire. The actually! Some 22-24 meters in
with (almost obsolete) Fairy himself, shifted the Kriegsmarine note is that the ammunition aisle concern we may have, knowing length and perhaps 4-6 meters
Swordfish biplanes and a sortie emphasis to U-boat war and the is covered with 30 mm steel plates that this turret weighs in excess of wide (if memory serves), and
was launched in the evening only surviving large battleship, the that open and closes to give access 330 tons is soothingly countered inside there is as much room as
of May 26th. Due to very poor Tirpitz, was sent in exile in Norway for the ammo hoist as the gun by observing the massive concrete in a large lorry or van – that is,
weather conditions, the squadron where she too eventually was sunk pivots. Thus it is pitch dark in there pivot supporting it. Another thing there would be if it wasn’t for the
by mistake attacked the Sheffield by British bombers while anchored if it wasn’t for the electric lights. we notice is the duct collecting the enormous breech, the equilibrators,
– which by odd chance turned in Trondheim Fjord. used cartridges. the handles and levers, gauges and
out to be a blessing in disguise meters, wiring and switches and
as the new magnetic warheads Battleship guns in the Wall Returning to the bunker, we see all the other stuff taking up most
on the torpedoes malfunctioned. However, at that time a number the rooms adjacent to the ammo of the space, but nonetheless you
Returning to the carrier, the planes of massive guns were already area. At the end of the corridor is can easily move around in here. For
were thus fitted with old-fashioned end of the battleship as sovereign produced, both 16 inch for the the communications room, fully techno-freaks there is a lot to look
contact warheads and on the nest of the oceans. Brought to her knees shelved H-Class juggernauts and equipped, and the next few rooms at, i.e. the breech, which is a Krupp
sortie almost in the dusk, one by a flimsy wood and fabric kite, some 15 inch barrels intended for are dedicated to air condition, water
plane managed to score a hit in carrying the torpedo that jammed upgrade of the lighter armament and fuel tanks and the generators
Bismarck’s rudder. This would prove her rudder and left her unable to on the Sharnhorst and Gneisenau. providing power for the bunker.
fatal for the German warship. flee to safety under the Luftwaffe These formidable guns were Finally we have the crew quarters,
umbrella, the juggernaut thus fell now re-commissioned as coastal
Moving in for the kill pray to the new kid on the block; artillery in France, in Norway and in
Unable to maneuver, the Bismarck the aircraft carrier. As the British Denmark.
had to sail in a large circle and themselves were to recognize a
await her executioners; the Renown couple of years later, when the • Batterie Lindemann (40.6)
and Sheffield and battleships King powerful Prince of Wales and the • Batterie Todt (38) The ammo hoist itself protrudes
George V (14 inch) and Rodney (16 battle hardened veteran Repulse • Hanstholm (4 x 38) from the turret down into the aisle
inch), joining the party from the were sunk by Japanese fighter- • Batterie Vara, (3 x 38) and was fed by the trolleys we also
west. At 8:47 in the morning, the bombers, not even the toughest, • Batterie Trondenes I (4 x 40.6) saw at Hanstholm. One can imagine
combatants opened fire and only well-armed battleships could match • Batterie Dietl, (3 x 40.6) the toiling the crew must have
three quarters later, Bismarck’s “the flying peril” that Churchill had, and almost hear the sergeant
guns fell silent while fires had himself warned against in 1934. Sources: yelling orders, as the gunners
erupted all over the ship. However, “Schlachtschiff Bismarck”, Müllenheim- wedge-type. A not too hefty person
Rechberg, Burkard Freiherr von, 1999
struggled to push the heavy laden
as she was still flying her colors and As to Germany, the defeat of “Articles on Wikipedia” (Link), (Link) trolleys to the hoist. will easily fit in here a fact that
no sign of surrender was seen, the several large surface units early must have come in handy when the
Above: The sinking Bismarck seen from a Left: Ammo hoist.
giant was eventually torpedoed and in the war, and the failure of the Continuing into the gun pit, the barrel needed maintenance.
British warship (Wikipedia Commons). Middle: Restored crew quarter with bunks.
sank at 10:39 in the morning. There pocket battleships Lutzow and Left: The capsized Tirpitz in Trondheim fjord mighty turret looms above us. Right: The breech from the even bigger (16”)
were only 115 survivors. Admiral Scheer to engage the (US Gov. license free for non-commercial use). To be honest, the barrel looks Adolf gun at Trondenes. Courtesy of Harald (I didn’t try it out though; my… my
kinda short from down here, but Isachsen, The Adolf Gun, Trondenes. shoulders are too broad to fit ;-)
Below: A full side view of the gun.
Got a story to tell?
If you have visited a place that you
believe other war tourists could benefit
from hearing about, you are encouraged
to come forward and tell about it here
in TWT.
The only condition is that it deals with
the (war) history of Europe through the
past 1000 years, and that it is apolitical
and held in a civil tone with no prejudice
to race, sex, creed or color.
Full credit will be given to author - name,
photo and contact details if you like - but
I cannot offer you any fee as this is a
non-commercial magazine from which I
make no profit myself.

Write to dre@wartourist.eu

14/16 15/16
Climbing on top of the bunker
(there is a very secure spiral
staircase), you have a fantastic view
of the surroundings; not least the
gun and the remaining two, derelict
gun emplacements. These bunkers
are inaccessible, but you can see
the gun pits from above and the
entrances.

The area
The Norwegian nature is beautiful,
and the area surrounding Vara/
Moevik is no exception. For a Dane,
used to live on a mere pancake,
There is also an inner barrel lining the museum bunker does point to
here; a small caliber (127 mm) some of the bunkers, but I will have
used for practice-firing to reduce to admit, that I have only seen a
wear and tear on the big barrel, few of them so far. Not all are open
which could only fire some 280 on a daily basis, but ask the staff
rounds before it was worn out. And which ones it is possible to see.
if we descend down into the lover
storey (!) of the turret, we see an When you are done, a pleasant
AC-DC converter as the gun servos rest area in front of the main
– originating from a battleship - ran entrance to the museum offers an
on DC current. opportunity to rest your legs and
break out your picnic basket.
The “cathedral” bunker
This is basically the same type of Enjoy your twin trip. We did ;-)
bunker as the three others, but
Sources:
with a huge concrete embrasure “Tyske Kystfort i Norge”, Jan Eigil Fjørtoft, 1982
to protect the gun from aerial the terrain with steep cliffs, partly “Atlantic Wall Typology”, Rudi Rolf, 1998
attack. It was poured in 1942, but covered in birch and pine is picked
installation of the gun dragged on right out of a Tolkien tale. That
and was not completed by 1944, as in itself is a good reason to take
the barrel was still in transit from a stroll in the area, but there is
Germany. On the night of February more to it. Here and there you will
22nd 1945, the vessel Porto Alegre, suddenly observe a well-hidden
carrying the 110 ton barrel, was bunker, the grey concrete blending
sunk in the Kattegat by the RAF in excellently with the cliffs.
and thus, this installation was not
completed by the end of the war. The museum homepage has it that
16 other, smaller guns protected
The bunker itself, however, is the battery and that “numerous”
definitely worth a visit. Sitting bunkers are in the area. A map in
there in the huge, church-like hall
you feel a certain kind of awe, The guns at Hanstholm & Kristiansand
Factbox
an acknowledgement of all the
Place: Kristiansand Kanonmuseum, Krodden, 380 mm SK (Schnell-laden Kanone) type
human toil and suffering it took to
Møvik, Kristiansand, Norway C/34eL50 in Schiessgerüst C/39 turrets.
build this – and all for nothing. I
was there on a rainy day in 2006 Phone: +47 91 34 39 38 Barrel length: 19.6 meter
(one of several times) and the E-mail: post@kanonmuseet.no Barrel/breech weight: 110 ton
sound of pouring rain and driveling Web: http://www.kanonmuseet. no Breech: Krupp horisontal wedge (chamber
water created an eerie, yet also Opening days: See website modified for extra charge)
melancholic and not all unpleasant, Opening hours: See website Shell: 495 kg (HE), 800 kg (APHE)
almost philosophical feeling within.
Admission: Open Air Museum is free. Charge: Up to 304.5 kg
Try it out, sometimes ;-) Museum equals 10 Euro Muzzle velocity: 820 - 1050 m/sec.
Bus from Kristiansand: Route M1 Range: Up to 55 km with 495 kg shell
Upper left: Inside view of the Moevik 15”
turret. Gun breech is to the right. Recommended gear: Flashlight, sturdy Lining service life: 286 rounds
Upper right: The view from the cathedral shoes or boots. Use caution in steep terrain
bunker - raising high above treetop level. and on the cliffs (very slippery when wet)!
Middle: View from inside the big bunker. Thanks to Arild Andersen, Kristiansand and
Lower left: Yours truly at the oppulent lunch RATING: ♥ ♥♥♥♥ Harald Isachsen, Trondenes for providing
on the ferry back to Hanstholm technical data and photos.

16/16

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