Making a Burner

by Mike Firth Rev.

3/20/95 8/19/95 6/20/96

One well-known way to build a burner with a blower is with a pipe T. I have built 6 or 8
burners with various sized pipe, from 1/4" to 1-1/2" for various purposes. (See below.) I
almost always build mine so the gas is injected on one side of the top of the T and the air is
blown or sucked in the bottom. I try to build my blown burners so that if the power fails the
jet is located so as to suck in enough air - using high pressure propane - to keep a
reasonable heat up. This involves moving the intake pipe to the right position during
construction. On an unblown burner, the same step must be taken just to make it work. [I
was asked where the air comes from, since it seems closed, but when power fails, the valve
is open (as shown at right) and thus air enters the intake of the blower, passes through the
slots of the squirrel cage and up the pipe. Some kinds of blowers - expensive - would not
pass air like this when stopped.]
Here are some specific directions for a full sized burner (like for a glory hole or furnace)
using 1-1/2" NPT fittings for the T. The burner is shown on the right side of the glory hole
shown below and in an image cut from the photo further down.

The burner is built as a T of the 1-1/2" fittings onto which are added the brass fittings for
the gas, the blower adaptors and the feed to the furnace/glory hole. Not all details are
shown in the drawing.

Brass Fittings (1/4" NPT is about 1/2" OD) Brass handles gas better than iron and is easier
to work and solder. Costs more.
6" x 1/4" NPT nipple (a nipple is a short piece of pipe threaded at both ends)
1/4" NPT cap drilled for gas jet #60-65 drill
3/8" x 3/4" adaptor (3/8" NPT inside, 3/4" NPT outside) used to house nipple in
sliding fitting
1/4" NPT elbow or T to turn gas flow toward ground. This takes weight of hose off
burner. An elbow is shown in pictures, later replaced with T to mount a pressure
gauge.
1/4" NPT to 3/8" compression fitting for the hose or otherwise connect gas
(NOTE: all fitting sizes are NPT - National Pipe Thread - which are NOMINAL sizes. That
means 3/4" NPT is based on the size of cast iron pipe 150 years ago when it was 3/4" ID.
As pipe materials changed, the outside diameter was not changed, so that pipes could be
threaded together, which means that steel pipe with thinner walls is now bigger inside than
3/4", but still has an OD of just over 1")
Black Iron Pipe Fittings (Not galvanized, which
will peel in the heat.)
1 1/2" T
1 1/2" Coupling
3" to 10" - 1 1/2" Nipple (from furnace to
T)
6"-1 1/2" Nipple (from T to blower)
3/4" x 1 1/2" adaptor
PVC Fittings (can be iron, heavier)
2" pipe from blower, long enough to
escape heat.
2" x 1 1/2" reducer
1 1/2" threaded adaptor
adaptor or flange to blower flange (wood
in my unit)
Valves Gate valve for 1 1/2" pipe with 3" nipple
or wooden substitute (see below) or Valve for 2"
PVC
Dayton blower Model: 4C440 A shaded pole
blower 1/125 horsepower, 2-1/8" outlet opening, 60 CFM Free air, 23 CFM at 0.5" Static
Pressure.
Propane fittings
Hose (with 3/8" flare fittings) [propane rated hose - changed to copper tubing later]
High pressure (12 psi) regulator (low pressure can be used, with bigger pipe and
making sure regulator can pass enough gas.)

Hose or hoses and manifold T to tank(s)

Tank to hose adaptor(s) (sold attached to hoses and separate)
Start with the iron T. Drill the top of the T to be tapped with a 1/4" bolt thread unless
you have another plan for mounting. In the base of the T put a short pipe nipple using
ordinary pipe dope or Teflon tape. On one side of the T place a short nipple (4-6" as
space requires) using high temp anti-seize compound which should also be used to
connect a 1-1/2" black iron connector or 1-1/2" to 2" adaptor on the burner end of a
nipple (if not using a ceramic burner head.) The connector/adaptor acts as a swirl
chamber and absorbs some of the heat of the furnace, the joint breaking some of the
heat flow, and allowing replacement when damaged.
To start assembly of the gas feed side, screw the 3/4" x 1 1/2" iron adaptor in the other side
of the top of the T. The hole of the 3/4"x3/8"* brass adaptor is sized so the 1/4" brass pipe
slides through perhaps a bit loosely. The nipple will be soldered or epoxied later. The
purpose of the adaptor is to allow removal of the set with the cap in place.* Drill a #60 hole
in the center of the cap from the inside (per Dudley Giberson). Slide the 1/4" IPS nipple
thru the adaptor and screw the cap and the flare fitting on the ends. Use pipe dope on the
threads; do not use the white Teflon tape used with water as it isn't rated for gas.
* I have found that the drilled hole tends to clog, reducing gas flow, so being able to
remove the back and ream the hole with a welding orifice cleaning tool is vital. 2005-03-31
Adjusting the nipple Version 1 - Thread the brass adaptor into the iron adaptor. Tighten the brass adaptor
moderately and move the 1/4" nipple in it until the end of the cap is still just visible (i.e. the
pipe goes most of the way through the T) inside the T when looking through the base of the
T opening. Mark the 1/4" nipple so it can be soldered. Remove the adaptor and use a torch
to solder the nipple in the adaptor. (Epoxy can also be used as the fitting shouldn't get very
hot.) Replace the brass fittings.
Version 2 - Connect the gas (so you might be doing this later in the process). With at least
the base pipe attached and perhaps the blower if you want a better setup, but with the
blower off, turn on the gas and light the burner (shall we discuss how you are holding this?
Nope.) As the brass nipple is moved in and out, the burner will burn with more or less
efficiency depending on how much air is dragged with the gas. The goal is to make a head
the will work with the blower, but will also burn reasonably well during a power failure. It
is unlikely you will get too much air (blue flame), but work from too much gas (yellow
flame, poorly formed) to as lean as possible. When the nipple is adjusted, mark its location
for soldering or epoxy.
Finishing the blower attachment
If using a 1 1/2" gate valve, attach it and its nipple. Thread on the 1 1/2" PVC adaptor and
solvent weld on the 1 1/2" to 2" PVC adaptor. Cut the PVC pipe as needed. Use electrical
sweep elbows (smoother curves) if bends are needed in the PVC.** Connect the end of the
pipe to the blower.
* I previously recommended using a 1/4" IPT x 3/4" IPT brass adaptor. After attempting to
work one of these after losing a useful tool and after pricing large drill bits and taper

reamers and after having worked with the burner, I now feel that a slip fit with the larger
hole and epoxy rather than braising is a much more economical choice.
** I am experimenting with metal flex tubing used with driers vents, 3" size. More later.
[Later: Bad idea. Tubing is fragile - bends, kinks, comes apart.]
ADAPTING A BLOWER
Making a blower fit the pipe can be a challenge. The recommended blower has a flat
flange. Similar blowers have a tubular outlet, the wrong size. A scrounged blower may have
a square opening, flanged or unflanged. I recommend using a six inch piece of soft pine 2x6
as an adaptor. Check the next section on adding a gate valve. Drill or saw a hole through the
wood matching the size of the PVC or the blower outlet ID, which ever is smaller. Then
cut part way in the other side to match the larger diameter. If the blower is flanged, screw
the blower in place. If it is not flanged, fit it into the opening, Taper the opening with a rasp
for best air flow if needed. Use screws inside the outlet, through the sheet metal into the
wood to hold the blower, with caulk if needed. Press fit the PVC and use silicone tub caulk
(or epoxy) to hold it on the other side of the board.
Wooden Gate Valve
While it is usually not difficult to scrounge
a large (1 1/2" or 2") gate valve for
controlling air flow, such a valve is heavy
and costly if purchased ($24-48) Making
one of wood is easy and if a 2x6 wooden
block is used to adapt a blower to the pipe
the gate can be built on the block. [The
valve is shown in pictures above and a
second one that is around, used on other
burners. This is after a repair when it broke
apart on being dropped. The grey PVC pipe
was epoxied into place, the sides glued, but
also screwed, and a crack glued. The slider then had to be sanded to fit and the whole was
shellacked.]
Needed are:
two wide pieces of wood to form the sides (1x6 or 2x6),
three long thin pieces for edges and ends (1x2 or 1/2"x3/4")
one center piece 2 1/2 to 3 1/2 inches wide (1x3 or 1x4) the same thickness (3/4") as
the edges, long enough to cover the hole;
Aluminum (or steel) flat bar 1/2"x1/8"x12",
1/4" threaded rod with nuts,
Wood glue,
Screws.
On one wide side piece arrange the three edge pieces in a U around the center
sliding piece.

Trim the edge pieces as needed and glue them in place snugly around the slider,
removing the slider before letting the glue set. Nails or screws may hold the edge
pieces.
Using a drill, saw, rasp, etc., cut a hole in each side piece to fit the PVC pipe being
used (or the PVC on one side and the fan outlet on the other. This may be done
before gluing if you wish.) The hole should have one edge near the base of the U of
edge pieces.
Glue and clamp the other side piece in place. When set, be sure to check the inside
to remove any glue drips. Sand the slider piece lightly on its sides and edges until it
slides smoothly into place.
Bend the aluminum strap in a U to fit the outside of the valve box. Drill the legs of
the U near the end for screws and put a 1/4" hole in the middle of the base of the U.
(In the picture above, this function is served by a center mounted single piece,
screwed to the top only and bent to extend out and down. A U is stronger and less
flexible.)
Looking through the PVC hole, pull the slide out so the hole is fully open, and
mount the metal U with 1/2" space between the end of the slider and the U (to clear
the adjusting nut.)
To fit the rod while automatically allowing for mismeasurement, hold the metal U in
place and using a 3/16" bit, start a slight hole in the end of the slider with the slider
touching the U, placing the bit through the 1/4" hole. Once started, move the slider
into the valve following it with the bit, then drill the rest of the hole (about 1") by
pulling the slider out onto the bit. This makes the angle of the hole match exactly
the path the rod takes through the U.
Place the 1/4" rod thru the hole, add a 1/4" nut, round if you have one, and turn it
into the slider's hole. The nut goes between the U and the slider because the air
pressure tends to push the slider out. If you wish to add a spring on the rod to push
the slider out, do so. Make sure the slider moves freely without large gaps.
Add PVC pipe lengths to the holes or screw the fan to one side. The valve can be
closed temporarily by pushing on the rod, but normally the adjustments are made in
small amount, turning the stop nut on the rod as needed.
Shellac or paint the wooden parts, sanding if necessary for clearance. Add some
wax for sliding if desired/needed.

Mounting the Burner

Each installation will be different.
Burners should be fairly firmly
mounted, especially those which have
white ceramic heads which are fairly
fragile and should be mounted with a
half inch space between the head and
the burner port. My choice of mounts,
used on both my furnace and glory hole,
is to hang the burner below a support
bar that can be shifted for correct lineup

but which is unlikely to shift in normal use.

I have a rectangular frame fastened to the equipment which supports
the door, etc. In the picture the frame has the round gloryhole under
it and flat steel plates on top to the right. The square tubing just in
front of the plates is bolted at the far end and can slide on the nearer rail. A simple flat of
steel takes a bolt into the tubing at the top and into the burner at the bottom. The burner is
threaded. Originally, I planned on mounting on the pipe, tapping a hole there but the
balance was off creating awkward movement so I filled it with a short bolt visible on top
and moved more directly above blower. I had to remount the tubing further out. 2005-0128
Note the gauge at the left edge of the picture. This measures the back pressure on the
orifice as the control valve below it opened. The pipe T below the gauge replaces the elbow
in upper pictures. Originally, the gauge was mounted on a quick release stem, but I was
reminded how little the gauges cost ($4-7) which is less than the quick release male and
female, so just put gauges in place. The amount of gas flowing depends on the orifice size
and the pressure and WHETHER THE ORIFICE IS CLEAN!! I reduced the size of the
orifice to give me more control by braising over the nipple and re-drilling. On several
occasions, I have found the pressure up and the gas flow down (the gloryhole not hot
enough.) Disconnecting one of the copper flare fittings allowed me to unscrew the large
iron adaptor and clean the orifice with a welding orifice cleaning tool while the glory hole
was hot. Pressure dropped but there was more gas flow through cleared orifice. 2005-03-31

Regulators & Tanks

Sources: High pressure regulators, high pressure gas hoses, larger tanks - Most places
selling a variety of propane cooking equipment will have the regulators for the high
pressure burners used with large outdoor cookers. In Dallas, specific places are Elliott's
Hardware (Motor & Maple off I-35) and NW Butane (11551 Harry Hines) the latter
carrying the larger tanks as does U-Haul at I-30 and Furguson.. Note that some high
pressure regulators are not adjustable - fixed at 10 or 12 psi. For future use, adjustable is
nice.
Hardware - Brass fittings are available at most hardware stores. Pipe nipples are also,
usually, although bigger sizes may require a visit to a specialized DIY plumbing shop.
PRESSURE - Three different pressures are involved with propane: Tank pressure, high
pressure regulated and low pressure regulated. "Hanson`s ASME propane tanks are built to
250# working pressure. Under normal circumstances, the vapor pressure at 100 F is 172
psi." "Tank Pressure-Unregulated pressure in any size propane tank or cylinder can range
on average from 80 to 250 psi; High Pressure-Regulates pressure received from tank or
cylinder pressure. Maintains a constant outlet pressure between 8 to 12 psi.; Low PressureRegulates pressure received from the high pressure regulator. Maintains a constant outlet
pressure between 11 to 14 inches of water column. (28 inches=1 psi) " Stationary LP
Low pressure is similar to natural gas at the home. High pressure is similar to industrial
supply natural gas.

A standard 20#
BBQ tank will
freeze up when
delivering enough
gas to fire a full
sized glory hole either a bigger tank
is needed - 100#
(pound) is my
choice - or a
manifold with
several tanks on it
(at right in an early
setup.) Freezing
means literally
that: when gas expands, it must absorb heat or it cools the remaining gas and tank. In humid
conditions, the outside of the tank will be covered with 1/4" or more of ice. In cool
conditions this happens faster. The propane does not convert from liquid to gas as quickly
with the cooling and pressure drops. With small torch tanks, one will hear of putting the
tank in a can of warm water. I have not tried anything to keep the tanks warm.
Propane is sold by the gallon for larger tanks, by the refill for smaller. Look under Propane
(and/or Butane) in the Yellow Pages. For serious glassblowers (only in a non-urban
environment?) the rate is negotiated with a company that delivers propane and a 250-500
pound tank is installed in the backyard away from the shop and plumbing run. A propane
tank truck with a long hose comes somewhere between once a week and once a month
(depending on usage) and refills the tank. In this case, the rate for tank rental, placement
fee, and cost per gallon are all subject to negotiation. Once usage is proven, a lower rate can
be negotiated - one rural glassblower is the highest summer user of propane for the delivery
company and is well up the list in the winter.
Q#1: What are examples of high pressure and low pressure propane. Which is a 20lb bottle
on the BBQ considered to be?
As it comes out of the bottle, very high pressure - 175-250 psi. You can buy either a high
pressure regulator - 12 psi - (adjustable or not) or a low pressure regulator - 7 ounces.
Unregulated high pressure is what is used in direct connect torches. Most cooking burners,
like for deep frying turkeys or fish, have a high pressure regulator for even heat.
Q#2: What is the size of the gas bottle you use on the Hole and how long does it last? What
is the cost to refill?
I use a 20# bottle (standard size) with the Fire Hole and I haven't run one dry in the times I
have used it (or when melting aluminum) so probably it it will last 5-6 hours. I usually am
running the hole and aluminum melter for about an hour at a time. For the glory hole, I use
100# (20 gallon) tanks with a high pressure regulator. If the weather is warm, I get 2 4-6
hour sessions out of a tank. If the weather is cold, the tanks tend to freeze up when sucking
a lot of gas out of them and they are less than 1/3 full, so fewer sessions (freeze up means
that ice forms on the outside and the propane inside wants to stay liquid, so pressure is lost.

No, I haven't tried heating the tanks.) [Yes, I did later, with an industrial drum belt heater,
which seems to work but may be risky.]
Around here there is normally a fixed fee for filling 20# bottles - like $9 now $6 in past - no
matter how empty they are. The 100# tanks are charged by the gallon - was $1, now up to
nearly $2/gallon. But I have found that if I take in the 100# almost empty and a couple of
20#, I am just charged for the total gallons - which makes filling the smaller ones cheaper.
I buy at U-Haul, the closest place and usually with lowest or competitive rates. A full 100#
tank weighs over 180# and I normally move them by putting an old quilt on the back seat of
a car and sliding one in. [This is considered dangerous and one site has refused to refill the
tank if I show up carrying it this way. Transport law to keep these things upright is being
enforced.] I get it out of the car as soon as possible (i.e. I don't park the car in the Texas
sun with a 100# tank of propane in the back seat! If I had a problem with the car, I would
drag the tank out first thing.) At the house I use a hand truck to move the large tanks - I
have two - through the yard. I built a trailer for my bike which works, but half kills me on
the hill coming back.] 2005-02-11
The larger burner at right
must be blower driven
because of the location of
the gas input [since rebuilt.]
It is used with my
aluminum melter and was
built this way to fit inside
the limits of the brick BBQ
pit. The blower - attached
to the white PVC pipe - and
the gas - using the quick
connect at a right angle to
the T - are located outside
and in front of the pit. The
elbow in the larger pipe is
propped up so the flame enters the side of the melter downward at a 45 angle. By using
high temp anti-seize compound, I am able to keep the last nipple and flared piece
removable so a nipple only can be installed for heating in the Fire Hole. The smaller burner
uses a tiny copper tube and pipe cap with a drilled hole to make a small pre-heater burner,
mostly for drying and preheating the glory hole sitting outside. A burner in between these
two in size has also been used for preheating and for maintaining heat for cooking in the
BBQ pit, where it is set on low flame and put through a hole in the bricks in the bottom of
the back wall.
--- In glassblowing_topics@y..., fsankar10@h... wrote:
> What does a burner head look like. In Mikes design it was an open
> pipe (I think??) Is there a design where you used a flat cap on the
> end and drill holes in the cap?
> Newbie
Almost all the burners I use have a bell shaped adaptor on the end to
provide a swirl chamber that helps hold the flame, mixes the gases in the
turbulence, makes a bigger flame, provides a thermal break from the

hottest part of the flame, and provides a sacrificial element to throw

away when badly damaged.
There are burner head designs that use a ceramic head (Giberson and
Wilton) and iron burner heads. For both of these the primary purpose is
to provide more flame area and reduce burner noise (as does a ribbon
burner) by breaking up the flame into smaller flames. Most burner heads
are complex shapes to shape the gas into non-turbulent flow (which
reduces noise) rather than just a bunch of holes drilled in a cap - which
is why I don't use a cap, I am not into head design.

> Mike how did you know how far to slide in the brass nipple and why
> did you use a #50 hole?
Getting the burner to work sucking its own air in is a matter of setting everything up and
lighting the burner and sliding the nipple in and out until the flame is most efficient. Then
the nipple is marked, the flame shut down and it is soldered or epoxied into place.
Originally, the data for burner hole size came from Dudley Giberson's catalog. I will have
to check my page. Dragging your own air only works for high pressure propane. With low
pressure, you just hang the end of the nipple in about the right place and blow air past it.

REFERENCES

Drill Bits- Drill bits come in two sets of sizes in the United States measure - fractional
sizes and number/letter sizes also called wire sizes. Fractional drill bits are available in
various materials in steps as small as 1/64" (0.015625") Number/letter size drills are based
on holes in a plate matching dies for wire - gauges - originally. Today, the letter size are
much less used than the number size because they overlap the fractional bits, while the
number bits get much smaller than fractional drill bits. Click for a complete table The
smallest bit I have seen in a good store is a #80 (0.0135 inch) while the table shows down
to a #97 (0.0059") and a metric 0.010mm (0.0040). The #80 is so fine it will think about
breaking if you look at it.:-) 1/64" is 0.015625" and is slightly smaller than a #78 bit
(0.0160"). Lightweight aluminum foil is about 0.011mm or 0.0043". Most of the smaller
bits will not fit in a standard chuck and require a pin vise or similar add-on chuck. Please
note that wire size drills are NOT regularly spaced in their diameter - there is 0.0015"
difference from an #80 to a #79 while only 0.0010" from a #79 to a #78 so even the
difference varies.
Some Fractional Sizes [derived numbers]
in.

mm

Comment

[0.00040]

0.010

Smallest drill bit

[0.00043]

0.011

Light aluminum foil

0.001

[0.0254] Thinnest commonly available shim stock

0.010

[0.254]

Ten Thousandths - "Quarter" Millimeter

0.015625 [0.396875] 1/64 inch (one sixty-fourth)

[0.03937]

1 mm (1 millimeter) (5/128" or 1/25" closely)

0.0625

[1.5875] 1/16th inch (one sixteenth)

0.0598

[1.51892] 16 gauge steel (nominal)

0.25

[6.35]

1/4 inch (one fourth)

[0.3937]

10.0

Ten millimeters = 1 Centimeter

1.000

25.40

Exact by legal definition 1 inch=25.4 mm

Pipe Sizes Link

Other Burner Discussion

This page talks about home building burners. There are several ways of making burners
which are more complicated and therefore are only for buying or for dedicated machinists.
VENTURI - A venturi burner uses a wasp waist shape to suck in air with high pressure gas
providing the power - in other words it is a quality version of what is shown above. Of the
greatest importance is that the air flow is much more proportional to the gas flow than the
simple T pipe burner - increasing the gas flow increases the air flow while coming
reasonably close to maintaining a constant proportion. The disadvantages of a venturi is
that there are limits to its range - too little gas and no air is sucked in and too much gas
means not enough air can fit through the throat. The biggest advantage is that it requires no
electric power - as long as the gas flows, the flame will exist.
RIBBON - This is a term that is used for two different burners, unfortunately. The older use
of the term is for a shape not unlike a pipe with a lot of holes drilled in one side. A mixer
sends a gas/air mix down the pipe and out the holes. In tamer form these are used for
heating BBQ's, ovens, etc. It hotshot forms, it is used for softening a length of tubing for
bending in neon work.
Rather recently, it has been applied to a box of ceramic material, molded rather complexly
inside in the best versions, so there are a lot holes on one side of the box and a pipe input on
the other. It is claimed to be much quieter, because of all the small flames and more
efficient. It is mostly used for glory holes and must be built into the wall.
BURNER TUNING Notes
I went and looked at the Reil burner site and added a link to my page. No, I don't think you
can add a blower and the only reason for considering it would be to save wasting the more
complicated hardware you have now.
The problem you having is common and has nothing to do with "cooling the tip". If a
burner is working properly, the flame will stand just off the end, not heating the tip much at
all. Part of burner design is to create turbulence or other complex flow at the end so the
flame does not either blow off or burn back. Reil's bragging about being able to keep the
flame on the burner with 25-30 pounds pressure is related to this. And it is why he shows

pictures.
1. If gas pressure is very low in a venturi burner (which is what his burner and my T-type in
back up mode are like) then the gas can actually start burning at the nozzle with just the air
right there. Not good. Not efficient. May produce a noisy whistle.
2. With more gas pressure, the flame may be in throat where the air and gas is mixing. This
is very roaring noisy and soon the entire burner body is glowing a bright red, not good.
3. With the beginning of proper pressure, the flame will be inside the mouth of the burner
(the bell on mine), will be reasonably quiet and reasonably efficient. OK, but the bell gets
red.
4. As more air flow is provided, the flame moves out of the mouth and stands at the end of
the pipe, air being swept in past the mouth keeping it centered and turbulent. Great.
5. Eventually, if the fuel flow is increased beyond the capacity of the burner, the flame will
start standing clear of end and it becomes unstable. In open air, the flame will literally blow
off the burner
What happens if the pressure is too low for the size of the burner is that the flame works it
way back down the list, trying to burn inside the pipe, etc. That is the pop pop. When you
turned up the pressure and the flame moved out of the pipe, it was far enough out that it did
not overheat the tip - no redness, lower noise.
If there is back pressure - not enough outflow from the forge/furnace - then the flame gets
shorter and also starts to work back through the 5 steps.
BURNER BOOK REVIEW
I have been sent a book on burners [Gas Burners for Forges, Furnaces, & Kilns, Michael
Porter, Skipjack Press, Ocean Pines MD 2004, ISBN 1-879535203] to review. My overall
reaction was positive at first, but I am rather more neutral on further reading. It took me a
while to figure what was going on. At first I thought it gets a bit too focused on the
particular design promoted in the book, which is built around using predrilled MIG and
torch welding tips to produce a long narrow point.
After rereading, I found that the structure hides confusion. There is a good drawing of
parts and the whole and a complete numbered parts list with matching numbers on the
drawing. But as construction develops, it turns out that two parts have the same number
and most parts have three names - the piece name (MIG tip), the group name within the
burner (adjustable tip) and the major subpart within the burner (accelerator). Because a
part number is assigned to the first name - we can have a sentence like this on page 42
"Screw the second contact tip into the other inverted female nut." Because the female nuts
are assigned part 13, there is no good way of telling them apart, although they end up
looking different after grinding.
Part of being too focused is failing to describe burners to begin with. My father used to
teach experienced workers how to be teachers of their skill to new workers and one
exercise he did was to take the teacher through the process of getting up, going to the door,
and turning the handle - but doing it step-by-step without telling in advance what the
overall goal was to be. Most adults want to fit their learning into their previous experience,
so they want a framework or outline of the subject. This book launches with a description
of some complicated parts without sketching the system they fit in.
Beginning with safety is a good idea and starting with a hand torch that can be used to
build the other burners and, with a temporary mount, can be used to build itself is a terrific

sequence. I see nothing wrong with the burner design although the fact that the orifices
must each be built from scratch and can not easily be drilled out means the design must be
taken on faith. While the use of a long thin tapering orifice clearly would increase the
pickup of air, I do question the importance the designer places on gas flow inside the
nozzles.
Chapter 1 is Safety, Chapter 2 is The Burner System and Its Fuel and Chapter 3 is
Building the 1/2-inch Burner. (In total, there are 12 chapters, footnotes, glossary, resources
and index.) Logically, one would expect Chapter 2 to draw the image of a burner system,
mention the variations, and then go into the details. It just goes into the details and is very
good at them. But I am sure someone with less experience with burners is going to be
bewildered. It is not even clear what the shape of the burners in this book is going to be,
much less how they fit in the design patterns of other burners a novice or intermediate
equipment builder might have seen.
Throughout the book, the author pays good attention to safety, making it clear why
propane tanks - which are used as shells for several of the projects - must be treated with
considerable care while opening them up.
All of the burners in the book are high pressure propane, induced air flow, burners.
Chapters 2, 3, 4, 7 & 8 are each devoted to the detailed steps of building gradually
increasing burners based on the nominal pipe size - 1/2 to 1-1/4 inch. They cover every
single piece needed and how it is drilled and assembled with good drawings and alternative
choices in some cases. Some of the parts are specialized and it will certainly help to use the
resources given, have a terrific junk bin, or know people who have cutoff pieces.
Chapters 5, 6, 9, 10, and 11 are devoted to equipment that can use the burners, starting
with a forge (burner aimed down at a kiln shelf), then a forge cart (burner aimed up), a
foundry furnace (aimed horizontally), a farrier's forge (smaller) and a glass furnace (a small
unit that I have problems with.) Chapter 12 covers braising. Among the differences
between the units is how various combinations of ceramic fiber, castable refractory, and
Perlite enhanced refractory are used, with good and given reasons for doing so. Depending
on the intensity of the flame and heat, the fiber is, in various units, rigidized, and coated.
The author really likes ITC #100, but as far as I could find, never explains what it is,
although on page 121, in a parts list it is finally described as "infrared reflective coating".
It is, in fact, a fairly new product that has been discussed on glass forums with some
question as to how well it works. The book does mention that it is expensive.
Considering the detail the author goes into (for example, reminding us to dry off a
retractable measuring tape after using it as a dip stick to measure water depth in a tank), I
am particularly bothered by the design of the foundry furnace. The lid hinge is built with
one long arm that extends beyond the pivot bolt. In a caption for a picture of the shape of
the parts, it is stated "It is not safe to use this extended hinge tab for a handle."
Considering how much the lid is going to weigh, I would agree with that. But for the entire
life of the unit, the long tab is going to be sticking out the back - what is its use? I expected
it would be part of stop to keep the lid from falling back or a point to hang a
counterweight. In fact, its only purpose is to hold a short length of chain with a pin on the
end, keeping the pin far enough from the furnace to keep it cool. The pin is used to hold
the lid open angled over the lower pot. So every time the furnace is to be accessed,
someone is going to have to lift the lid, reach around under the hot lid, get the pin and put it
in the holes in the hinge and later reach under the lid again to pull the lid out. I would have
been much happier with a design that built a stop into the hinge design so that it could be

opened from the front, not go too far and rest open. The author likes that the pin allows the
lid to be tilted over the hot chamber.
The glass furnace design begins with the disclaimer that using a home made burner for a
glass furnace is folly because it would not pass inspection so this is really a small foundry
and glory hole. In fact, the burner design has little to do with inspection - the gas train,
which is covered back in chapter 2, being more important. The other furnaces seem to be
more based on experience, being mostly simple straight forward designs, while this one is
complicated - pivoting in its frame with an expectation that for some uses, the frame will be
filled with Perlite that will be removed for other uses. Sorry, but I think a design like my
Fire Hole, with a rectangular frame around it so it can be set upright or horizontal is much
easier than the pivot axle arrangement.
As I look at the burner designs in review, the burners seem pretty fragile across the air
intake slots - there is a fair amount of weight hanging off the intake on thin metal supports.
There are, in fact, warnings about torqueing the area when making connections. Since my
blower based burners are working reasonably well, I don't know if working through one of
the designs is something I want to do just to possibly disprove my doubts. 2004-03-29