Wagashi and the Japanese Tradition

of Hospitality
In the last few years, the English term sweets has come to be used in Japanese as
a hold-all term referring to all kinds of cakes and confectionary. But it seems a
shame to lump the Japanesewagashi traditionally served with tea into the same
category. They have a special role in social ritual that makes them quite different.
This spring, I took part in a round-table on the subject of traditional Japanese
confectionary culture with the proprietors and artisans of some of Kyotos oldest
traditional wagashi shops. The colors and forms of the wagashi are inspired by
motifs celebrating the beauties of nature. The artistry and attention to detail that goes
into making them is truly remarkable. The artisans who create these edible works of
art somehow manage to impart into the wagashi the very essence of the seasons
mountains, fields, rivers, and lakes. You can almost feel the wind and light of the time
of year. The artisans have an uncanny sensitivity to nature, and live in intimate
proximity with the changing seasons.
During the round table, one wagashi maker explained that Traditional wagashi are
much more than simply a sweet snack. There are part of a culture of hospitality, with
its precise etiquette and traditions. In Kyoto, the host washes down the area in front
of the house and lights incense in the entrance porch in anticipation of a visit. The
ground mustnt be either too wet or too dry when the guest arrives. If the incense is
lit too soon, the scent will have disappeared by the time the guest arrives. But if the
smoke is still rising when the guest arrives, that is a discourtesy too. Timing is
essential. The host arranges a selection of seasonal flowers, and hangs a scroll with
some kind of relevance to the season, the expected guest, or the topic to be
discussed.

Wagashi and the Aesthetics of Minimalism

When the guest arrives the host serves tea, and then it is time for the wagashi to
make their appearance. Seasonal motifs are used in the wagashi, as well as elegant
poetic names. The guest will normally start by admiring the beauty of the design, and
then ask about the name of thewagashi. This provides a topic for conversation. Many
of the names allude to lines from classical literature. Finally, the guest raises
the wagashi to her lips. First one enjoys the wagashi with the eyes. Next comes the
imaginative enjoyment of the allusions evoked by the nameonly then does one
enter the world of flavor. The wagashi is not something to be scoffed down as soon
as it appears. It is a sophisticated pleasure for mature adults, resonant with the
empty space of the Japanese minimalist aesthetic.

Cherry Blossoms Against the Sunlight

The final stage in the ritual of hospitality is the farewell. In Kyoto, it is common in
private homes and restaurants alike for the host to remain on the threshold until the
guests are out of sight. Hospitality in Japan is the crystallization of many aspects of
Japanese culture: courtesy, consideration, and respect for others, along with an
esthetic enjoyment of nature and the changing seasons, and a culture that esteems
empty space. As part of such an intricate culture of hospitality, it doesnt seem right
to refer to traditional wagashi with a common catch-all term like sweets.
One spring day almost 20 years ago, I came across a beautiful example of the
Japanese confectioners art in a traditional old shop in Kyoto. It was made of sweet
white bean paste wrapped in a soft mochi coating called gyhi. I asked about the
name. Urazakura, the owner told me. Cherry blossoms against the backlit sun. He
explained that the pink color of the confection was reminiscent of the sunlight shining
translucent through cherry blossom petals. Such subtlety and depth! In the years
passed since, I have often remembered the hidden beauty of those cherry blossoms
against the sunlight, symbol of Japanese beauty.
(Originally written in Japanese on May 8, 2013.)