Carburetor Rebuild - Rebuilding The

Electric Q-Jet
Written by Jeff Smith on July 1, 2009 Those '80s GM Feedback Carbs Are

Probably More Than A Little Crusty, So Here's The Performance Skinny

On Rebuilding The Electric Q-Jet

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1/18 Our '85 Monte was in need of improved part-throttle performance.

The carb came off so Sean Murphy could have his way with it.
If there were a category titled Good Carb, Bad Reputation, the Rochester
Quadrajet would be at the top of that hit parade. It's doubtful there is a
domestic fuel mixer more universally misunderstood and scorned than the
Q-jet. And yet, for those who speak fluent carburetor, the opinion is that
this is an excellent piece when properly installed and tuned. Perhaps it is
the Q-jet's complexity that makes it an easy target. Within the Q-jet family,
the electric or feedback Q-jet is even more despised. Rather than just
jump on the blame train, we decided to take one on-or more accuratelyapart. Our '85 Monte Carlo rejuvenation project is afflicted with one of
these unresponsive feedback Q-jets, making it a perfect candidate for a
rebuild.
Since the electric Q-jet dialect was unfamiliar, we sought out a reliable
knowledge base, which brought us to Sean Murphy's door at Sean
Murphy Induction (SMI). Murphy's expertise spans the breadth of most
domestic carburetors, so he was intimately familiar with our carburetor's
eccentric notions. The Q-jet's electronic solenoid circuit is tied directly into

the primary main metering circuit and is commanded by the computer that
sends out part-throttle signals based on input from a narrow-band oxygen
sensor. The solenoid circuit constantly adjusts the air/fuel mixture based
on these signals from the computer. The primary metering circuit still
functions like an original Q-jet except that the primary metering rods now
move much more rapidly to adjust the air/fuel mixture.
We yanked the Q-jet off the Monte's L69 305 engine and shuttled the carb
down to SMI, where Murphy could more closely inspect its inner
workings. We're only going to cover the main items on the rebuild list,
since a step-by-step Q-jet rebuild session would entail many more pages
to do correctly. Most of the modifications Murphy performed on this carb
can be replicated on nonfeedback Q-jets, so there's much to learn about
these fuel mixers. If you'd rather send your carb to SMI, the company can
perform all the tricks and return it to you looking like new.
It's a little-known fact that the original name of Joan Jett's band was Joan
Q-Jett and the Blackheart Exhaust. Honest...

2/18

Most Q-jets require driving out this roll pin to remove the accelerator
pump arm. Only push in the pin far enough to remove the pump arm. This
will give you enough room between the choke housing and the pin to
lever it back in place during reassembly.

3/18
Using needle-nose pliers, remove this throttle position sensor (TPS)
plunger. Don't lose it; GM doesn't service this part anymore, so it's
scarce.

4/18
Using a flat-blade screwdriver, remove this idle air bypass valve. Now
remove all 12 lid screws using a Torx T-25 male socket. Don't forget the
two tapered screws hiding inside the choke housing. Carefully remove the
lid and disconnect it from the secondary air valve arm.

5/18
Note the orientation of the different springs above and below the flat
plate. You'll need a special double D tool. Murphy made his out of a
length of mildly flattened 1/4-inch tubing, but Sears offers an OTC tool as
well. The assembly unscrews out of the base. OTC also makes a special
tool to remove the primary metering jets out of the carb.
Bush It
One classic problem with Q-jets is a loose primary throttle shaft. SMI sells
a bushing kit that is easy to install and will really improve throttle
response and driveability. A classic symptom of a worn primary is
excessive idle rpm-even with the idle-speed screw turned all the way out.
The procedure is easy to do yourself, or you can send the carb to Murphy
and he'll do the restoration for you.

6/18
Use a small grinder to remove the small stakes on the throttle shaft
screws. The ends must be ground down or it will be nearly impossible to
get the screws out. Don't bother with the secondary shaft. It rarely is
worn.

7/18
Remove the primary shaft from the throttle plate.

8/18
The passenger-side bushing can be lightly tapped into place with a
hammer.

9/18
Rochester stepped the hole in later Q-jets, requiring you to carefully drill
the driver-side bushing hole with an 11/32-inch drill bit. Work slowly here
and only drill down deep enough (usually 3/8 inch) to accommodate the
bushing.

10/18
Tap the bushing into place and then use the supplied reamer to carefully
size the bushing to allow the throttle shaft to turn easily.

11/18
Use a small amount of thread-locking compound on the new SMI screws
for the throttle butterflies. Carefully position the butterflies to fit as tightly
as possible to the throttle bores. The test is to hold the baseplate up to a
light source to see minimum light around the butterflies with the throttle
closed against the idle-speed screw.
Performance Mods
SMI's performance feedback Q-jet upgrades are intended to improve
driveability and throttle response. Keep in mind that only very small
changes are necessary to see big gains in part-throttle feel. These mods
are part of SMI's Stage 2 upgrades, if you would rather have SMI do the
honors. Keep in mind that as far as secondary jetting is concerned, the
electric Q-jet still allows the tuner the full range of metering rods and
hanger adjustments, just like the older Q-jets.

12/18
Murphy drills the idle downtubes from 0.032 to 0.034 inch to add a little
more fuel to the idle circuit using a jobber-length drill bit. He also drills the
accelerator pump discharge holes in the carb lid from 0.026 to 0.029 inch.

13/18
The choke pull-off is also the diaphragm that controls how quickly the
secondary air valve door opens at WOT. Murphy grinds the tip of the
nipple to expose the restrictor located inside and then drills this restrictor
to 0.016 inch, which allows the air valve door to open faster.

14/18
You can also change the opening point of the secondary air valve door by
loosening the small Allen locking screw and then using a small, straightblade screwdriver to adjust the door-spring tension. The proper tension is
one that will open the door the quickest without causing a bog. Too loose
an adjustment created the undeserved Quadra-bog nickname.

15/18
During reassembly, Murphy coats the TPS plunger with grease to ensure
it operates smoothly. Often the plunger sticks, which causes driveability
problems. Also lightly stretch the spring underneath the plunger to ensure
it has the proper tension.

16/18
When reassembling the primary metering rod assembly, make sure the
rods touch the horizontal part of the mixture control assembly baseplate
when at rest. As you can see (arrow), they don't in this photo. If not, lightly
stretch the two small, primary metering rod springs until the rods touch.
This will eliminate a possible part-throttle stumble.

17/18
This is the orientation of the idle air bypass valve to the primary mixture
control solenoid plunger plate. The solenoid moves up and down, which
also moves the air corrector. The air corrector screws into the top of the
carb. Murphy says this idle air bypass valve is the proper way to adjust
the carb for idle quality, not with the idle-mixture screws. The stock
adjustment is to bottom the air corrector and then turn it four times
counterclockwise. Turning the air corrector clockwise (down) is richer,
while counterclockwise (up) is lean. There is also a dwell adjustment once
the carb is back on the car, using this same idle bypass valve. Dwell is
adjusted to 30 degrees using the six-cylinder scale.

18/18
With the Q-jet back together, Murphy set the idle-mixture screws at the
factory spec 33/4 turns out (the needles have a very fine thread pitch). It's
now ready to bolt back on the Monte.
Parts List
Description
PN
SMI full Q-jet restoration SQ7
SMI Stage 1 rebuild
7001
SMI Stage 2 rebuild
7002
SMI primary shaft kit
TS101
KD idle-mixture tool
00994176000
OTC mixture control tool 00971625000

Sources
Sean Murphy Induction
Huntington Beach, CA 92647

Source
SMI
SMI
SMI
SMI
Sears
Sears

Price
$375.00
$225.00
$275.00
$39.95
$1.99
$39.99

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Engine

Carburetor Tuning Basics - Night

School
Carburetor Basics

Written by Moses Ludel on October 1, 2009

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1/20The Rochester Quadrajet is a complex, highly efficient carburetor. Rebuilt and staged
properly, this carburetor design is far more tolerant of altitude changes and provides excellent
driveability. The Q-jet served on engines ranging from Buick's V-6 to muscle cars and
Cadillac's 500ci V-8!

Gasoline is volatile when vaporized with oxygen. As a motor fuel, gasoline burns
best at a ratio of 14.7:1-roughly 14.7 pounds of air to each pound of gasoline. This
optimal burn, known as "stoichiometric," serves best when the vehicle is at cruise
or similar loads. For more power, like passing, accelerating, or moving a heavy
load, a richer air/fuel mixture becomes necessary. Under lighter loads, a leaner
mixture may suffice and provides improved fuel economy.
In order to "mix" the air and fuel before combustion, the earliest internal
combustion engines had carburetors. Although designs changed, the principle of
the carburetor has remained the same, as a means for mixing air and fuel in

correct proportions for a given engine load. Carburetors, refined over time, served
quite well until the advent of electronic fuel injection.
Carburetor Circuits
Engine speed, load, and starting demands each dictate how fuel will be delivered.
When the throttle is closed or slightly open, manifold vacuum is high, and fuel can
flow by means of engine vacuum. If the throttle opens wider or heavy throttle is
demanded, manifold vacuum drops accordingly. A carburetor must flow even more
fuel at lower manifold vacuum-the greater the engine load, the lower the manifold
vacuum.

To deliver fuel at lower manifold vacuum and wider throttle openings, carburetors
maintain fuel flow volume by the venturi effect. The throats of the carburetor have
sized-down sections. As a column of air moves through the carburetor's throat,
reduction in the bore size raises the velocity (speed) of the air column. This creates
a low-pressure effect in the venturi areas. The vents above the float chamber
enable fuel to move through the main discharge tubes into the low-pressure area of
the venturi. Once discharged, the air/fuel mixture continues down the throttle bores
and into the engine.

2/20Stripped for rebuilding, the pieces shown require caustic cleaning, thorough rinsing, and
compressed air drying. When rebuilding a carburetor, begin with a complete inventory of the
parts. Match up identification numbers whenever the carburetor's origins are uncertain. Jets
and metering rods have engine-specific sizing and must match your engine's displacement and
requirements.

The carburetor must operate over a wide range of throttle openings, airflow
characteristics, and manifold vacuum. Distinct "circuits" function in the different
operating modes. Modern carburetors have: 1) an idle system, 2) off-idle system,
3) main metering system, 4) power system, 5) accelerating pump system, and 6)
the cold-start choke system. Other refinements might include a secondary air valve
on a four-barrel carburetor or a fully vacuum controlled secondary throttle. (A
vacuum dashpot can control the opening of the secondary air valve.) When the
throttle valves open wide, low manifold vacuum signals the air valve to open.

On a carburetor like the Quadrajet, the idle system picks up fuel from the main fuel
well. Sized idle tubes draw fuel into discharge tubes that mix this fuel with air from

the idle air bleeds and the off-idle discharge ports. The mixture enters the
carburetor bores via the adjustable idle needle orifices. These idle needle screws
control the mixture flow at an idle and off-idle throttle position.

The off-idle system still relies on manifold vacuum. As the throttle valves begin to
open, strong manifold vacuum pulls fuel through the off-idle port. This port is just
above each throttle valve and gets a strong vacuum signal as the valve begins to
open. Note: This is the vacuum that we call ported. Ported vacuum signals are the
typical source for a distributor's vacuum advance canister. Like the vacuum
advance, the off-idle system responds with initial tip-in of the throttle.

9/20Here is the primary power piston assembly for a Quadrajet. Use care installing the retaining

spring (top) and metering rods. Rod tapers are precisely matched for each engine design.
Today, rods are nearly impossible to find through parts sources. Clean parts without removing
brass material. Do not stretch the balance spring (bottom). This spring is factory calibrated to
counterbalance manifold vacuum.

Primary side main fuel metering begins off-idle and goes through wide-open
throttle. The stronger manifold vacuum holds the main metering rods down in their
jets. A spring counterbalances the vacuum pull, and when vacuum decreases, the
spring pressure moves the piston upward. Tapered metering rods, attached to the
piston, move upward and allow more fuel to pass through the jets. This is a smooth
balance between a calibrated spring, sized rods, and jets, and the amount of
manifold vacuum present. When power is needed, the fuel mixture enriches. At
cruise and light loads with higher manifold vacuum, the rods remain lower and
provide less fuel flow.

Secondary power on four-barrel carburetors like the Quadrajet rely on vacuum

signals, secondary metering rods, and an air valve. The throttle valves may be
wide open, but full fuel flow will not occur until the low manifold vacuum signals the
secondary air valve to open. The air valve opens and simultaneously lifts the
secondary metering rods. This increases fuel flow and richens the fuel mixture.

Other carburetor designs accomplish the same results as the Quadrajet with
different means. The Holley carburetors, for example, use their familiar power
valve. Fuel flow increases when manifold vacuum drops to the power valve's
setting. Regardless of design, the goals are the same: 1) provide richer fuel
mixtures when load increases, and 2) allow for more fuel flow under wider throttle
openings.

Common to nearly all carburetor designs is an accelerator pump. This mechanism

is part of the accelerating system. Some accelerator pumps have cup seals and
press fuel out of a round well. Other carburetors, like the Holley or Motorcraft
square-flange units, use a diaphragm. The aim with the accelerator pump is to
provide a smooth, powerful surge of power when the throttle opens quickly. The
added "shot" of fuel is necessary because fast throttle openings mean more airflow

with a lag in fuel flow. (Air is lighter than fuel, and fuel flows slower when the
throttle opens rapidly.) Without the accelerator pump, there would be a momentary
lean condition under hard acceleration.

10/20Float and power piston installed, note the tiny fuel and air bleed orifices. Air moving
through the venturi rings will speed up. This creates a venturi effect and lower pressure within
the boost venturi ring. Fuel moves to the low-pressure area through the main discharge tubes.
Venturi flow begins with throttle tip-in and continues to full throttle.

Surely important is the cold start circuit. This is necessary because the air/fuel ratio
must be richer for a cold engine. Combustion is poor, and a 14.7:1 stoichiometric
air/fuel ratio would cause stumbling, stalling, and poor idling in a cold engine. To
compensate, the carburetor has a choke valve above the primary throttle bores.

Chokes can open manually, electrically, or by engine heat. The earliest choke
valves were hand-controlled by either a cable or rods. Heated chokes with a

bimetallic coil spring and engine heat source became popular in the '30s. Electric
chokes, essentially a variation of the bimetallic coil choke, came about in the '60s
with the emergence of emission controls. Each design serves the same purpose to
reduce airflow while maintaining fuel flow. An enriched air/fuel ratio is necessary for
starting and operating a cold engine.
Troubleshooting And Rebuilding
Understanding the functions of a carburetor increases one's troubleshooting skills.
By knowing what each circuit of a carburetor does, a tuner or troubleshooter can
focus on the area of the carburetor that causes a problem. While a carburetor
overhaul will generally provide wide enough coverage to eliminate most circuit
quirks, the skilled rebuilder looks for specific components that create trouble
symptoms.
An important aspect of carburetor rebuilding is linkage adjustment. Air bleed vents,
secondary release linkages, choke rod clearances, and accelerator pump settings
are crucial to carburetor performance. It is not unusual for a factory-built carburetor
to have incorrectly adjusted linkages.

This month's photo illustrations will increase your knowledge of carburetor circuits.
There is more to restoring a carburetor than cleaning the parts. Join me at my
workbench, and we'll walk through the functions and needs of a carburetor.

17/20On the Quadrajet, this vacuum brake has two functions: 1) opening the choke further
when the engine starts, and 2) unloading the secondary air valve. The brake is also designed
to prevent secondary opening on a cold engine. When the engine is warm and the throttle has
opened far enough to drop manifold vacuum, the brake enables the air valve to open. A
calibrated diaphragm orifice on the brake offsets engine lag by keeping the air valve from
opening until steady fuel discharges from the secondary nozzles.

Note: Unless you have an EFI engine or induction system, your classic truck has a
carburetor. This month, the focus is carburetor design and trouble spots.
Understanding how a carburetor functions will enhance your tuning and
troubleshooting skills.
Note: To prevent hesitation as the secondary throttle valves open, the Quadrajet
provides a small supply of fuel from the secondary accelerating wells, drawn by
manifold vacuum. This is not the accelerator pump system, but rather an auxiliary
fuel supply that helps the transition to the secondary metering rods and air valve
opening.

What Did You Learn This Month?

Night School" would not be complete without a quiz! Don't worry about your testtaking skills or grades. This is an open-magazine, true or false test. Answers can
be found in the "Night School" text, photos or captions. Have a good month!
True or False Questions:
1. In its ideal combustible state, gasoline has a "stoichiometric" air/fuel ratio of
14.7:1.
2. Manifold vacuum decreases as engine load increases. Decelerating creates high
manifold vacuum. Manifold vacuum is high at an engine idle.
3. Venturi effect does not rely on manifold vacuum to deliver fuel. In a carburetor
bore, air speeds up as it moves through a restricted area, or venturi. This speed
change creates a low-pressure zone in the area of the venturi discharge tube. This
low pressure causes fuel to flow through the discharge tube's nozzle and into the
carburetor bore.
4. Ported vacuum serves the off-idle fuel circuit. Ported vacuum is also the signal
for a distributor's vacuum advance mechanism.
5. Hesitation or stumble at throttle tip-in can be caused by a defective vacuum
advance in the distributor. A weak accelerator pump can create this same
symptom during acceleration.
6. Idle mixture screw adjustments have little effect on engine performance at cruise
speeds.
7. The cold start system, typically a choke mechanism, makes the air/fuel ratio
lean. Cold engines need a leaner fuel mixture to run smoothly.

8. If the engine still ran before your carburetor rebuild, there is no reason to adjust
the linkages. Linkage adjustments have little effect on carburetor performance.
9. The Quadrajet was popular for a wide range of General Motors engines. In
outward appearance, Quadrajets look similar. A Buick V-6 application would have
the same jets and metering rods as the Quadrajet on a 500ci Cadillac V-8.
10. A worn throttle shaft or throttle plate bore creates vacuum leaks. You can test
for a worn throttle shaft or plate before removing the carburetor from the engine.
Answers:
1 true, 2 true, 3 true, 4 true, 5 true, 6 true, 7 false, 8 false, 9 false, 10 true

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This page is made up of information I

gathered from the Internet, requests I
made by email, Bill Stacey from
Buickstreet.com, Cliff? and many other
sources. These are not all my personal
experiences but a lot can be gleened
from this information. Use it at your own
risk, I can't accept any liability if you
blow your engine up or anything :).
QUADRAJET ARTICLE
Rochester's Quadrajet carburettors were a
staple of General Motors V-8 powered
vehicles from the late 1960s until the switch
to electronic fuel injection was finished in the
late 1980s. Capable of both fuel economy
(for a V-8) and performance they made a

name for themselves, although it is

sometimes used as a curse.
When introduced it was the most complicated
carburettor of its time, incorporating fourbarrels and many functions (ie fast idle,
choke). It was a fearsome rebuilding task for
most technicians who were used to tuning
Holleys and Carters. The myriad of linkages,
internal circuits, and easily lost tiny pieces
were incomprehensible to some. With age
the Quadrajet earned a following of
technicans who understood its design and
recognized its potential.
The primary barrels of the carburettor are tiny
compared to most four-barrel designs, but
this is what gives the Quadrajet its gas
milage edge. In contrast, the secondary
barrels are huge, providing a performance
edge. During normal driving the primary
barrels are adequate for cruising speeds. The
beast comes out when the pedal is
depressed further. The secondaries open
and there is the slightest amount of delay as
the accelerator pump richens the mixture. A
Quadrajet carburettor car is often
distinguishable from other cars by the sound
of the engine as the secondaries open. There
is a moment of quiet followed by a large
increase in exhaust volume, sometimes
described as a 'booming' noise.
Most performance enthusiasts shun the
Quadrajet as a stock carburettor laden with
useless emissions controls. In reality, the
Quadrajet offers performance on a par with
most aftermarket carburettors while retaining
good driveability and gas mileage. With a
little modification most Quadrajets can easily
reach 750cfm (cubic feet per minute) airflow.
There were many iterations of the Quadrajet,
even including some electronic versions
produced while General Motors were
dragging their feet in changing to electronic
fuel injection. The most desirable are the
ones produced in the mid-seventies on bigblock powered high-performance and luxury

cars. These can flow up to 800cfm in the

stock configuration.
AIR VALVE ADJUSTMENT
A full 90 degreeing opening can inhibit fuel
flow from the tubes. By 90 degrees I'm
talking about the rear portion of the flap, the
front will go past 90 degrees on a correctlyset
up carb. The very best q-jets, Ram Air,
Super Duty and Ho models were set so that
the secondary flaps leading edge is 1.130" to
the edge of the opening in the airhorn when
fully open. Going beyond this can cause a
lean spot as it effects how well fuel is pulled
from the tubes and the lower edge of the flap
nearly blocks the openings.
NEEDLE AND SEAT
I make my own hp needle/seat assemblies. I
have found that .130" is the best all around
size for hp use. You can go to .149" but it
shows no performance gain. It is imperative
that the fuel pressure be set at 3.5 to 4 psi,
excessive pressure can cause problems with
the larger needle/seat assemblies. To make
your own hp seat, obtain a numbered drillbit
set. Gently install the seat in a soft jawed
vise. Drill from bottom to top being carefull to
keep the bit straight. No matter how carefull
you are a slight "dog ear" will be formed on
the seating surface. Use a spare steel
checkball and small punch to form a new
seat. Vacuum test the seat by installing it in
a carb with the float and needle. Invert the
carb while holding the float pin in place. Use
a vacuum pump hooked up to the fuel inlet
via a 3/8 metal line.
APT is the adjustable part throttle. The carb
in the picture should have a metal pin on the
front of the power piston. The pin contacts
an adjustment screw in the main casting.
Most of the later metering rods have a
tapered second step. By raising/lowering the
adjustment screw you will have fine control of
the part throttle mixtures. The later carbs will

also have very small idle fuel supply holes in

the baseplate. I would enlarge them to .090".
Depending on your cam/compression ratio
combination you may also need to enlarge
the idle tube restrictions, idle channel
restriction and add some idle bypass air. I
would need to know all
engine/drivetrain/vehicle specs to advise
further in this area. For secondary rod
selection obtain a set of AX .040" rods with
long tips. They are a good starting point, I
use them in the hot months. I use a custom
machined .028" set of rods for cooler
weather, and a set of custom .034" rods for
moderate weather. As I mentioned earlier the
late style carbs make very good hp units, but
they will need some help in several areas.
Another benefit is that they are 800cfm and
work very well on large cid engines. I don't
work on a lot of Buick's but suspect that you
folks are running well using a lot of stock
parts. My GTO uses a very mild medium
compression 455. I have a stock iron
intake and q-jet, Pontiac Ram Air cam and
headers. My car runs very low 12's at 112
mph in full street trim thru the exhaust on
Hoosier Quick Time Pro tires. Hope the info
helps some....Cliff
GENERAL TIPS
The secondary choke pull-off is not needed.
I would retain the primary pull-off and add an
electric choke even if you are eliminating the
shaft and flap. This will allow fast idle on cold
start-ups and you won't have to "feather" the
throttle for 2-3 minutes till it will idle on it's
own. In addition to the mods you mentioned I
would make sure the carb has a hp
needle/seat (at least .130"), brass float and
sufficient idle/off idle fuel for your engine. Set
the float at exactly 9/32". I would also obtain
or modify the primary choke pull-off for a 1.52 second release time, most are 3-5
seconds. The secondary airflap will have a
limited opening angle, it should be increased
by grinding the stop to duplicate the angle of
the early HO and Ram Air carbs. I WOULD

NOT change primary jets/rods, the carb has

APT, this allows for fine metering control of
the part throttle mixtures.
ADJUSTING AIR VALVE
Did you see how to adjust your air valve?
You might have to take an allen key and a
small screwdriver (I use one of those long
electrical ones with the red insulation that
goes down to the tip which usually came in
Stanley screwdriver sets) because you have
to tune it until any flat spots disappear.
Loosen the spring tension slightly on the air
valve until it starts to bog down a little and
bring it back up until the bog disappears and
a little more and your set. Then it's set for
your car and you'll have bog free
performance when you floor it from there on
and it shouldn't change either. It seems like a
lot of work but if you can find a section of
isolated road. you'll know pretty quickly if you
have a bog. Then you get out and adjust it a
little and shut the bonnet and floor it again.
ADJUSTING AIR VALVE TENSION
If you follow that linkage to the arrow on the
left in the picture you should see a little flat
head screw through the linkage bracket.
You'll have to move the linkage back a bit
and slide your screwdriver in through the
bracket and onto the screw. Directly under
the screw is a small allen head grub screw
which locks it into position - it's under so you
won't be able to see it but trust me it's there.
You might have to get a small mirror and a
light to locate it for the first time.
1) use both hands to locate the allen head
screw underneath and place the allen key on
it but don't turn it!
2) Hold allen key in place with your left hand
while using your right hand to place the
flathead screwdriver onto the adjusting
screw.
3) Making sure that you don't let go of the
adjusting screw, loosen the allen head grub

screw a little bit. Just enough to allow the

screwdriver to turn the adjusting screw. The
adjusting screw holds tension from a spring
so if you loosen the locking screw without
holding the adjusting screw it will unwind like
a window blind and you'll have to start over
again from zero tension (which is another
story).
4) loosen the adjusting screw no more than
1/4 of a turn and preferably 1/8 at a time and
tighten the locking screw. You won't be able
to see how the air valve butterflies "flop" until
you take the screwdriver out and allow the
linkage to go free but I suggest that after 1/4
turn you go out and drive it. It should flop
open easily but also have enough spring
pressure to make sure it closes or it's bog city
for you. Floor it under all sorts of conditions
and keep loosening it until it starts to bog
when you floor it then come back 1/8 of a
turn from that point. If you can loosen it 1/4 to
1/2 a turn and still not bog then it needed it. If
it bogs on 1/8 to 1/4 of a turn then it was
about right and you should leave it. In any
case, loosen it until it bogs and 1/8 turn back
from that and you should be right. I'll be very
surprised if you loosen beyond 3/4 of a turn
of where it is now. The leaner the rods the
less quickly you can open the airvalves
without it bogging. When you have a loose air
valve flap you better have the rods to back it
up (which we have with the AX/B combo)
because there's going to be a whole lot air
coming in pretty quickly and it's going to need
a lot of fuel.
I hope you understand all that because I
typed it all off the top of my head without
looking back.
Metering Rod Chart

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C:\Users\ALFREDO\AppData\Roaming\Microsoft\Plantillas\Norma
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29/12/2014 08:07:00 p.m.
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