Setting a Single Line Releasable Rappel

DANGER

No rappel system can remove all risk of injury

associated with rappelling. Never rappel alone.

NOTE

This instruction set does not attempt to instruct on the use of the rappel
system described. Do not rappel without proper training and supervision..

Introduction
A rappel line is the combination of a rope
and an anchor used to quickly and safely
descend a vertical or near vertical surface.
Rappelling can be used for recreational
purposes or as part of rescue procedures.
The descent is controlled by sliding down a
still rope as the rope is forced through a
rappel device that adds friction to the rope,
therefore slowing the descent. In the event
that the individual cannot control their
descent throughout the rappelling
procedure (i.e. the individuals clothing jams
the rappel device), a rappel system that
utilizes a releasable line is necessary.
A rappel line is said to be releasable if the
anchor which typically prevents sliding of
the rope can be altered to allow sliding. In the case of someone stuck on the rappel line, the
individual must be lowered down to the ground in a controlled manner. A rappel system that
holds the line still during rappelling that can be released quickly and enable a controlled
descent presents a need for complex combination of ropes and anchors.
The system presented in this instruction set is quite simple, and still allows for a controlled
release if needed. The rappel line remains static by the use of two knots tied below the anchor.
The munter knot and the mule knot, referred simply as a munter mule, are tied to fulfill both
purposes of the rappel line.

Materials Needed
Rappelling can be used in a variety of environments and situations. When considering what
materials are necessary for a safe descent, analyze
Anchor
Depending on the setting of the rappel line, a variety of materials to establish an anchor may be
necessary. A natural rappelling surface will likely not have preexisting permanent structures to
connect a rappel line to. In this setting, high strength webbing or ropes are necessary to wrap
around existing landmarks such as trees and boulders. In the case of artificial rappelling
surfaces, the materials that provide the anchor are permanently attached to the structure and
no additional materials are necessary. The following list gives a generous estimate to the
materials needed to create an anchor in such a setting:
o Climbing ribbon or static climbing rope, 10 feet in length (5 count)
o Climbing carabiner, lockable (5 count)
Carabiner
The carabiner used to attach the rappel line to the anchor has the same specifications as those
potentially needed to establish an anchor. Two carabiners can be used in place of a single
carabiner to mitigate the risk of failing equipment. Have the following on hand to establish a
connection between the anchor and the rappel line:
o Climbing carabiner, lockable (2 count)

CAUTION

Always use a steel carabiner when connecting to

other steel hardware.

Rope
The rope used as the rappel line must possess elastic properties to decrease the acceleration
experienced during a fall. Dynamic climbing rope stretches enough to decrease the risk of injury
to an individual falling while attached to the rope. As a safety precaution, half of the rope used
will be unused unless the rappel system is released. A rope that has less than five years of use
and purchased less than ten years prior to use with the following specifications will suffice for a
single line rappel:
o Climbing rope, dynamic, twice the length of rappelling surface (1 count)

Stage One: Establish the Anchor

The anchor must support the weight of the rappelling individual as well as forces associated
with sudden falls. All artificial rappelling walls will have anchors established for convenience.
Rappelling on natural surfaces requires establishing an anchor from the environment including
trees and large rocks. In both situations, use of multiple anchors to support the rappel line is
recommended to mitigate the risk of an anchor failing.

WARNING

Operating near a ledge has a risk of falling. Do not attempt to

establish an anchor without a proper belay system.

To establish a natural anchor, perform the following steps:

1. Identify one or multiple objects in close proximity to the desired location of the rappel
line. These can be trees, large boulders, or other sturdy objects.
2. Secure a rope around each object and lead the ropes to a central carabiner near the
edge of the rappelling surface.
3. Visually inspect all connections and verify that the carabiner is shut fully and locked.

OR

To establish an anchor in an artificial environment, perform the following

steps:
1. Locate pre-established anchors. These are typically a part of the structure or connected
to it by steel wires.
2. Connect a carabiner to as many independent wires as applicable. These wires must have
their own direct connection to the frame or material of the artificial environment.
3. Visually inspect all connections and verify that the carabiner is shut fully and locked.

Check! At this stage, the anchor is established. The integrity of the connections to the
structure of the artificial rappelling wall should be visually inspected. If any part of the
connection associated with the anchor appear to not be secure, seek further instruction and
supervision before proceeding.

Stage Two: Tie the Munter Mule

In most cases, the knot being tied is the weakest link in the system of connections that make up
the rappel line. Proper tying of the knot described is essential to a safe descent and all steps
must be followed precisely as shown.

To secure the rappel line to the anchor, perform the following steps:
4. Locate the center of your rappelling rope. This is the point in which the rope will
connect the anchor.
5. Tie the munter mule combination onto the carabiner as outlined in the back of this
document. If you are using a paper copy, it may be useful to detach the last pages to use
it as a visual aid while tying the knot. After successfully tying the knot, return to this
page and proceed in the steps as ordered.
6. Position the carabiner such that the screw gate fastens downward. As vibrations can
loosen and possibly open the gate, orienting the carabiner in this way mitigates that
risk. Screw down so you dont screw up!
7. Visually inspect the knot. If possible, have another individual also inspect the knot. If it
does not appear to be tied correctly, retrace your steps to where a mistake has been
made. It may also be in your best interest to start over as this will provide practice tying
the knot correctly.
8. Physically test the knot. Pull on the
rappel line with your own weight and
analyze the reaction of the knot. The
first pull should slide the mule closer
to the carabiner. This is expected. If
the knot holds, proceed. If not, seek
further instruction and supervision
before proceeding.

Check! The knot that will hold the weight of

the individual rappelling must resemble the
image provided. The line that has been used
to tie the mule knot around the other knot is
the tail line. The line that has the mule tied
around it is the lead line. It is important to
distinguish these two lines prior to
continuing.

Stage Three: Set Rappel Line

Setting the rappel line refers to dropping the lead line down onto the rappelling surface and
redirecting the tail line away from the rappelling system.

To set the rappel line, perform the following steps:

9. Identify the lead line. Pulling on this line will result in tightening the knot. Pull on it to be
sure you have properly identified it. If the knot begins to untie while you pull on the line,
it is the tail line you have found.
10. Drop the end of the lead line down onto the rappelling surface. Be sure the line fully
extends the entire length of the rappelling surface. If it does not and you have properly
tied the munter mule with the middle of the rope, a longer rope must be used before
proceeding with a rappel.
11. Coil the tail line and redirect it away from the rappelling system. It is important to not
mistake this line as the lead line as that can result in untying of the munter mule while
rappelling.

Check and Double Check! The rappelling system has now been anchored, tied, and set.
Repeat the visual and physical test made in the previous section (steps 4 and 5). Visually inspect
all ropes, knots, and connections for any improper or possibly unsafe features.

DANGER

No rappel system can remove all risk of injury

associated with rappelling. Never rappel alone.

NOTE

This instruction set does not attempt to instruct on the use of the rappel
system described. Do not rappel without proper training and supervision..

Munter Mule: Steps 1 Through 4

1. Run rope through

carabiner and twist below
to create a simple loop.

2. Pull loop toward

carabiner and insert open
carabiner into loop.

3. Tighten both ends of

rope. This is the
completed munter knot.

4. Bring lower length of

rope under upper length.

Munter Mule: Steps 5 Through 8

5. Twist lower length of rope to

make a simple loop on the left side
of the upper rope. Mirror this step
on the right side of the upper rope.

6. Insert the mirrored loop over the

upper rope and into the left loop to
create a slip knot.

7. Bring the mirrored loop further

and under the upper rope.

8. Finish by twisting the mirrored

loop end over the upper rope and
under itself. Return to step 6 of
overall process to continue.

NOTE

To view the original images and similar tutorials on a wide

variety of other knots utilized in rappelling and climbing, visit
http://www.animatedknots.com/muntermule/#ScrollPoint