TEXTILE INTERNSHIP

Report

On

OCM India Ltd.

(Amritsar)

By

Chaitanya Attuluri (9)

Haqiqat Ali (12)
Kushagra Jain (13)
(DFT, Sem-5)

Under the guidance of

Prof. T. Srivani
(DFT)

National Institute of Fashion Technology

Hyderabad

NATIONAL INSTITUTE OF FASHION TECHNOLOGY

HYDERABAD

Textile Internship
Mentor: - Prof. T. Srivani
(DFT)

Submitted by:Chaitanya Attuluri (9)

Program

: B.FTech

Batch

: 2010-2014

Haqiqat Ali (12)

Department

: DFT-5

Date

: 4th September, 22012

Kushagra Jain (13)

Table of Contents
S. No.

TOPIC

PAGE NO.

Textile Industry- Introduction

Objective of Internship

Company Profile

4-7

Brand Key
Brands Style Quotient
Product Portfolio and Sub- Brands
Company Details

Organizational Structure

Process Flow of Production

9-11

Spinning

13

Spinning Flow chart

14

Various terminology

15

Spinning processes

16-24

Blending
Combing
Autoballing
Drawing
Roving
Ring Frame
Autoconer
Parallel winding
Steaming
TFO Twisting

10

Spinning efficiency and Stop Motions

25

11

Weaving
Introduction
Flow chart
Design development
Warping
Drawing and denting
Rapier weaving

27-35

12

Loom shed
Stop motions

36-38

13

Dobby shedding

39

14

Weaving mechanism

40

15

Production Calculation

41

16

Problem in weaving section

42-45

17

Types of defects
Classification of defects
Conclusion
inspection

Quality control Department

49

Research and development Lab

18

Testing Equipments

49-55

19

Inspection Lab

56

20

Photogallary

57

21

Learning Experience

63-65

22

Safety measurement
Learning outcome

Annexure

67-68

Acknowledgement
We would like to take this opportunity to extend our deepest regards to our faculty guide
and mentor, Ms. T. Srivani, who guided and helped us throughout the progress. He
provided us all the knowledge and information and support that were worth useful in our
research work. We also appreciate his effort to countercheck and give us feedback time to
time as well as whenever we needed.
We extend our sincere thanks to our Department, DFT, for arranging the industry
internship and providing us a great opportunity of industry exposure.
We would also like to thank the Entire OCM Community and professionals for cooperating with us and providing the necessary details, facts and other required information.
We thank him for giving us the material samples and allowing us to click the pictures as
well.
We would like to express our sincere gratitude to the following people at OCM India Ltd.
Amritsar.
Mr. Mayank Dixit, GM, HR Department
Mr. Pankaj Sharma, officer, HR Department
Mr. H.M. Natraja, GM, weaving section
Mr. Ravi S. Parihar, officer, weaving section
Mr. MP singh, DGM, spinning section
Mr. Kulbeer Singh, Tech. officer, QC section
Mr. Gagandeep singh, Supervisor, QC section
Mr. Akhshay kaushik, GM, designing Depatment

Lastly we are grateful to NIFT-Hyderabad also, for giving us an opportunity to provide us

a window in our curriculum to do industry research and giving us the facilities required.

PART-1
INTRODUCTION

1.

TEXTILE INDUSTRY

The textile industry is a term used for industries primarily concerned with the design or
manufacture of clothing as well as the distribution and use of textiles.

Textile is a general term applied to any manufacture from fibers, filaments, or yarns
characterized by flexibility, fineness and high ratio of length to thickness. Textile Industry
is unique in the terms that it is an independent industry, from the basic requirement of raw
materials to the final products, with huge value-addition at every stage of processing.

Textile Internship as a module in the course of Apparel Production emphasizes on the

learning of the processes in the Textile Industry which involves the major processes of
procuring raw material, spinning, weaving/knitting, dyeing, printing, finishing, testing and
quality control measures. The internship revolves around observing the functioning and
processing at a Textile Manufacturing Unit.

It also greatly focuses on the learning of the process parameters, working conditions,
process flow and other important criteria in the manufacturing process. It is also important
to observe the machinery details, safety measures, and productivity, testing and quality
criteria. We were to understand the step-wise breakdown of all the process, how they are
carried and what are the start and end-product at each of these steps.

The two weeks of internship focuses on enhancing the knowledge about the properties of
different fibers, their physical and chemical nature and their behavior when subjected to
varied conditions. The observations made on the treatment of different fibers based on their
differing properties were also to be learnt and recorded alongside.

2.

OBJECTIVE OF TEXTILE INTERNSHIP

The objective of our textile internship at OCM India Ltd was to understand the concept of
spun yarn production, grey fabric production, dyeing and their quality aspects both
technical as well as for commercial purposes.

Our first step was to learn about the profile of the company and their basic dealings. We
further dealt with the way the company handles the raw material and sends it through to
subsequent stages of manufacturing. We were to learn about the various stages in the entire
process of textile manufacturing, the importance of each of these stages, the machinery
features, machine and material process parameters available in detail in the areas as
mentioned below.

We summarize some of the major concepts that we were to observe and understand during
our internship:

a)

Yarn manufacturing and Winding section

b)

Weaving section

c)

Testing and Quality control

3.

Company Profile

OCM India Ltd. manufactures and retails apparel fabrics in

India. It offers wool blended, polyester viscose, polyester,
and woolen fabrics. The company provides suiting, shirting,
trousers, and jacketing fabrics. In addition, it exports
products to the United States, Europe, Japan, CIS countries, the Far East, the Middle East,
and internationally. The company offers its products through retailers and distributors.
OCM India Limited was formerly known as The East
India Carpet Co. Ltd. and changed its name in
January 1989.

The company was incorporated in 1922 and is

Established in 1922

Offers wool blended, polyester

viscose, polyester, and woolen

headquartered in New Delhi, India. OCM India

Limited operates as a former subsidiary of Digjam

fabrics

Ltd. Since its inception in 1924 as a manufacturer of

hand-knotted carpets, OCM has come a long way to

Implies customized textile ERP

34064 Spindles and 140 high

speed shuttle less Looms.

A completely vertically integrated plant, OCM has

12000 kgs yarn and of 25000

Mtrs of fabric per day.

finished fabrics through dyeing, spinning, weaving

and finishing using state-of-the-art machinery. All

shirting,

solution.

solution.

in-house production facilities to convert tops to

suiting,

Trousers and jacketing fabric.

become one of the largest worsted suiting producers,

the first one to implement a customized textile ERP

Provides

37-acre complex and employee

base of 1020 people.

250-500 Cr. Turnover.

the materials and processes pass through stringent

checks at every stage and help in delivering
outstanding quality.

At present the company?s capacity includes 34064 Spindles and 140 high speed shuttle less
Looms thereby giving spinning capacity of 12000 kgs yarn and weaving capacity of 25000
Mtrs of fabric per day. The spinning preparatory is from NSC, France, Spindles frpm
Zinser, Germany, Autoconers from Schlhafhorst, Germany, TFO?s from Leewha, Korea
9

and looms from Lindaeur Dornier, Germany, Sulzer, Switzerland and Picanol, Belgium.
Apart from this, colour continuity is tested on colour matching system from Gretag
Macbreath, UK and fabric gets final finish on KD from Biella Shrunk, Rotary Press of
Mario Crosta,Italy, Continuous Decatising from Speretto Rimar, Italy, Superfinish from MTec, Germany and Shearing machine from Xetma Vollenweider, Switzerland.
The ownership of OCM is split between the US-based, WL Ross & Co. LLC, a global
private equity fund management company and HDFC Ltd. The company has a 37-acre
complex, with contemporary processes for manufacturing world class fabrics.

The Company has its Corporate & Sales office in Delhi, while its manufacturing facilities
are in Amritsar, Punjab. It has a strong employee base of 1020 people, who work
relentlessly towards achieving customer satisfaction.

THE BRAND KEY

Youth, today, is being celebrated and respected as they are
redefining their space in the society at large. Young men in
smaller towns are experiencing real change at home, work
and other societal spheres. This is their era.

They are keen to mark their presence and create a place for
themselves, in family and society, through their efforts and
their energy. They cherish their newfound optimism and
seize opportunities to make a real impact. They are action-oriented and are bubbling with
the spirit of enterprise. They aspire to make a name for themselves through merit and
enthusiastic efforts. However, they are also practical in their approach to life. There is no
desire to break traditions or to rebel against authority. They don't wish to stand out for the
wrong reasons, they dont want to be seen as brash rebels or make fashion statements, just
to assert their individuality. Individual freedom and self-expression are sought but, with a
sensitivity towards family and community. Their friend circle means a lot to them and
theres a very close bonding and camaraderie amongst friends.

10

THE BRANDS STYLE QUOTIENT

OCM makes one look and feel smart, handsome and superconfident; makes one believe that he can become some-one
of worth; makes one to trust that he too can be an achiever,
who can make his family proud and acquire stature. The
change brought about by an OCM suit is sure to be
recognized and celebrated by the people around.

The intent is to be the fashion leader as well as an educator for the new generation; to give
them a set of colours, designs and styles that they call their own. OCM offers far more
fashionable colours, designs and styles than the other brands do. OCM aims to set the
trends of every season and to lead consumer education on styles, via a tailor program that
provides catalogues and guidance on looks. OCM brings to the small-town consumers the
latest designer and metropolitan fashion trends.

PRODUCT PORTFOLIO & SUB BRANDS

OCM brings nearly 1500 new design combinations, twice a

year, to cater to the needs of one and all. Design and
Technology combine to translate the fibers into finest
fabrics.
Suiting:
The consumers can choose from a wide range of suiting. The collection includes specially
crafted designs in pure wool, wool rich blend with polyester and blend with polyester
viscose, amongst others. The range, with its wide array of colors, designs & soft hand-feel,
suits every occasion and age.

Trousering:
Our fine trousering range has a vast array of pure wool, wool
rich blends with polyester and blends with polyester viscose
to choose from. These fabrics pass through stringent test
parameters so that the consumer gets nothing but the best.
11

Jacketing:
Our range of jacketing has one of the widest variety and colors to choose from. Across the
industry, OCM is acknowledged as the Gold Standard when it comes to tweeds.

Shirting:
To offer a complete fabric solution, OCM now has introduced cotton shirting fabrics
through an exclusive relationship with Esquel Group of China.

OCM - Company Details

Corporate Office

C-9, Community Center,

Safdarjung Development Area,
New Delhi-110016
Ph: +91 11 43119100, Fax: +91 11 43119195

Registered Office & Factory

OCM Estate, GT Road, Chheharta, Amritsar-143105

Ph: +91 183 2820600, Fax: +91 183 2258714
info@ocm.in www.ocm.in

OCM India Financial Details :

No of Employees 1001-2500
Turnover in Crs 250-500 Crs
Sector- Private Sector

12

Organization Structure

Owner

CEO

HR
Depatmenet
(GM)

DESIGN
Depatment
(GM)

Maketing
Department
(GM)

HR
managers

Designing
team
officials

Analysts

Spinning
Department
(GM)

DGM
(spinning)

Supervisors

Technical
officers

Weaving
Department
(GM)

DGM
(Weaving)

Supervisors

Q.C.
Department
(GM)

R&D
team
officials

Inspection
section
(Manager)

other
depatmen
ts e.g
accounts,
building
and
administa
tion

Processing
depatment
(GM)

Dyeing
and
printing
section

Finishing
section

Technical
Officers

OTHER HEADS, MANAGERS, SUPERVISORS AND OPERATORS

13

Process flow of production

Marketing Department

Customer orders taken

Specifications prepared

Designing department

Swatches made

Specifications prepared for

Spinning, weaving and processing

Spinning Department

Weaving Department

Yarn manufacturing

Production of fabric

Quality Control Department

Processing department

Fabric inspection

Coloring

Defects analysis and mending

Steaming/conditioning

Packaging

Storage/Warehouse

Distribution/Dispatch

14

4.

Process flow of production

The design and marketing department coordinate with each other to carry out the market
research and surveys to anticipate the demand and trend in the market. They also deal with
the customers and orders being placed for production. As soon as the orders are being
received the design department finalizes the designs of fabric to be manufactured. The
corresponding specifications are made for the manufacturing of yarn and henceforth the
fabric.

In case of production of yarn, the required amount and quality of raw material is either
purchased or taken from the buyer itself. Customers who place the demand for customized
fancy yarn or fabric provide the raw material in the form of fiber laps. The specifications in
the context of yarn characteristics and other manufacturing aspects are sent to the spinning
depart where the required material is produced within the given deadline.

After the production of yarn, it is sent to the processing department to enrich it with
different type of finishes and colors, if required. This processed yarn is then sent to
Research and Development lab for the testing and cross checking it according to the
required specifications of colors, functional properties, aesthetic properties and
defectiveness. The defective material is then sent back to the processing department for the
mending of defects at yarn level.

This yarn is the steamed at around 87C for nearly 45 min. steaming can be done before or
after imparting color to the yarn. It can also be done at the stage of parallel winding or after
giving the twists to the parallel wound yarn i.e. after converting it into 2 ply or 3 ply
threads. The purpose of steaming is to make dead the fiber twist and impart the strength to
it.

To produce the fabric, the manufactured yarn is warped directly (by direct warping or
sectional warping) so that drafting can be done the heald shafts. The drafted heald shafts
are then transferred to the loom. The loom in turn weaves the thread according to the
design of main fabric and selvedge inculcating different mechanism of loom running
techniques. The produced fabric is then inspected manually for the defects. The defected
15

pieces are sent for mending whereas the pass fabric bundles are sent to inspection section
where they are inspected again for further problems and defects. The inspected fabric is
then written on it the specification like the percentage of different fibers. The packaging of
fabric is done in the inspection section which is then sent to godown or warehouse to be
dispatched for selling.

Fig. transportation of Raw material

16

PART-2
SPINNING SECTION

17

Spinning
Fibers cannot be used to make clothes
in their raw form. For this purpose,
they must be converted into yarns.
The process used for yarn formation is
spinning. Spinning by hand was a
slow and laborious process. Thus,
many implements and methods were
invented for making it faster and 1. Fiber Lap: - Raw Material for spinning Department
simple. Eventually, the techniques
were refined and industrial spinning started manufacturing yarn in various
ways. The methods selected depend upon the factors such as the
manufacturer's preference of equipment, the economic implications, the fibers
to be used and the desired properties of yarn to be produced. Ring method is
the oldest and the most used technique. Open- end spinning is another
important method. The basic manufacturing process of spinning includes
carding, combing, drafting, twisting and winding. As the fibers pass through
these processes, they are successively formed into lap, sliver, roving and
finally yarn.
At OCM Amritsar the Raw material for spinning was received in the form of
fiber laps which are subjected to further processes of carding combing roving
and spinning. Hence there was no blow room in that industry. The raw
material is either provided by the customer only for the manufacturing of
required quality of yarn and hence fabric or it is imported by the industry itself
as per the requirement for production. In both the cases directly the fiber laps
are received. These laps of different kind of fibers are then mixed
systematically to produce the blends in the right ratio.

18

SPINNING- flow chart

Blending

Combing

Post combing / Autoballing

Drawing

Roving / FM 7

Ring Frame / Zincer H21

Autoconer 238

Parallel winding

Spinning / TFO Twisting (TWO FOR ONE)

19
Steaming / Conditioning

Important Parameters of Yarn & Fiber:

Length

Strength

Single Yarn Strength

Yarn count

TPI

Twist Multiplier

RAW MATERIAL

Wool ( 14 microns 28.5 microns)

Polyester ( 1.5 D 2.5 D)

Trilobel polyester ( triangular shape)

Plain polyester / terylene ( circular shape)

Viscose, nylon and Flux ( 1.5 D 2.5 D)

Testing

Moisture testing (percentage of moisture content)

Oil testing (percentage of oil content)

Noil testing (for vegetable trash and short fibers)

USTER testing (for evenness and % of hairiness and knots)

Count testing

20

Various

Processes

of

Spinning

Department
1. BLENDING

Mechanism

Narrowing the passage

Tension

Decrease

in

weight/length

called

Fig. GC-14 blending machine

ginning.

Carded sliver of different fibers is the raw material.

They are inspected for moisture, oil and weight of sliver

One blending machine is handled by two workers

Total three machines installed

Blending (mixing of two diff. types of fibers)

Material from first machine is passed to second machine for more thorough
mixing and in turn to the third machine for the same purpose

It's two coiler mixer which gives 2 output slivers for 10 input slivers.

Machine Model : GC 14

Speed 200 250 meters/min

Production:
1200kg/shift/machine

Fig. blended fiber lap

Fig. Specifications of blending
21

2. COMBING
OBJECTIVE
To remove short fibers , neps, pin points etc from the material
For uniform blending of fiber
To remove dirt, dust and foreign matter
To get good quality yarns.
Combing of doubled material is done in PB-31 machine
Its a French type of comb that utilizes three pulley mechanism
For 24 input slivers it gives only one sliver as output.
It increases the length, levels the material mass and weakens the sliver.
Input : 30gm/m, output: 22gm/m
In three pulley mechanism machine runs on three specified speeds only
175 mpm
190 mpm
210 mpm
Six machines in this section were being handled by one worker
Total 22 machines were installed
The production rate is 150kg/shift/machine

Fig. comber (Top Combing)

Fig. Combing mechanism

Fig. The Waste

22

3. POST COMBING / AUTOBALLING

Combing weakens the fiber blends hence Ginning (doubling) is repeated.
After ginning, autoballing is done.
It strengthens the fabric by thoroughly ginning the slivers.
This machine automatically wraps the material and one completion of one roll
it automatically gets rid of the roll and continues the cycle
It runs at 200-250 mpm
Productivity: 1200kg/shift/machine
The task of post combing and autoballing is carried out in the same machine
at two different passages
One machine is handles by one worker
Total three machines were installed
Additionally it works as an auto leveller also, which means giving it a
constant weight to length ratio

23

4. DRAWING
Drawing machine has four passages
o P1 mixing
o P2 auto levelling
o P3 bi-coiling
o P4 tri-coiling
It runs at the speed of 200-250 mpm
Total three machines were installed
Two workers are assigned to handle one machine
Production rate: 1000kg/shift/machine

24

5. ROVING
The machine model used is FM7 NSC
It runs at the speed of 160 mpm
40 spindles machine
Total five machines were installed
Production rate is 800kg/shift/machine
Mechanism : rubbing-drafting system

25

6. RING FRAME / ZINCER

It is a 556 spindled machine.
It runs at the speed of 8000 rpm.
Three machines are handled by one worker.
Input bobbin = 278
Output bobbin = 556
Drafting angle = 45
Weft thread- autoconor single yarn
Warp thread- TFO, 2 ply twister

26

7. Autoconer Machine
Air suction mechanism for catching the thread.
Total 258 cones can be made on one machine at a time
It converts the small package into big standard package.
Removes various faults like thin place thick place splicing.
Speed is 600-800 rpm.

27

8. Parallel winding
120 spindles machine
1 spindle = 1 kg
Input: 240
Output: 120
Speed = 305 mpm

28

9. Steaming/ conditioning
4 boilers
500 kg each
Steaming can be done at
two stages
1. After the autoconer
winding
2. After applying the
TFO twist
The normal temperature to be aaplied is 87c
Application time is 45 min
It is used to set the twist and release the stress of the yarn/thread.

10.TFO Twister
Two For One Twister
High speed spindle
Run at 6000-8000 rpm
144 spindle machine
Total 144 machines

29

Spinning- other facts

Spinning efficiency

PARAMETERS

TARGET

ACTUAL

UP TO DATE

Waste %

4.97

5.18

Defective %

0.5

0.29

0.11

Efficiency %

80

84.5

80.2

Production(meters)

9000

4048

Averagecount

45 nm

40.3

35.3

Stop Motions for Spinning

Red machine stop

Green- Mechanical Fault

White- doff indicator (indicated a few min prior to the finish)

Yellow synchronize with controlled stop motions

30

PART-3
WEAVING SECTION

31

INTRODUCTION

Weaving is the process of interlacing two sets of yarns called warp and weft,
at right angles to each other. Warp yarns run in vertical direction & the weft
yarns run in horizontal direction.

32

WEAVING: Flowchart

DESIGN DEVELOPMENT
Raw

Material

(Yarns) Storage
WEFT
WINDING
SAMPLING

WARPING

DRAWING AND DENTING

WEAVING

INSPECTION

FOLDING

SENT FOR PROCESSING FOR

DYEING &/OR PRINTING

33

DESIGN DEVELOPMENT
Designing is a part of marketing. In O.C.M., the people who are in marketing deal with the
customer and gives the designing department about what is to be made and what is the
demand of the customer. Marketing sector gives the designing department information
regarding the sale..

PROCESS :

Marketing receives the requirement and then sends samples collected from the
customers to the designers

The fabric then comes for analysis to the designing department that is the designer
analyze what the fabric is and how it can be made

The designers reply back to the marketing department with analysed report and the
production cost

The marketing people offer on process to the customer

Then if agreed converted into bulk order

12 x 8 handloom samples are made for the customers

If checks/stripes design is there paper printout is taken out with the desired color

34

WARPING
The single yarn packages made in winding and spinning are directed for warping. The
warp is a lengthwise thread attached to a loom before weaving begins. Each individual
warp thread in a fabric is called warp-end.
The aim of warping is winding on one package to a certain number of warp-ends of a
particular length. During warping, ends from many winding packages are wound on a
common package to prepare a warp beam.
Comb
Warp beam

with

dents

Warp yarn passage on warping machine

Requirements for warping:

The tension of all wound ends must be uniform and possibly constant during all the
time of withdrawal from supply packages.

Warping should not impair the physical and mechanical properties of the yarn.

The tension should be moderate, to allow the yarn to completely retain the elastic
properties and strength.

The surface of the warping package must be cylindrical.

A predetermined length of the warping should be observed.

35

The production rate of warping should be observed and it should be as high as possible.

Direct Warping

High speed warping also called Beam warping/Direct warping. In high speed warping the
yarn is wound parallel on the warping beam. All the yarns are wound at once and simple
flanged beam is used. It is a very high speed process and is used for making fabric of single
colour.

The direct beaming machine satisfies the highest demands regarding the performance,
precision and quality. Exact cylindrical winding, high-precision uncrossed thread laying,
precision length, desired winding density assured.

36

Process :

Ends are manually held by worker from each cone, taking 4-5 ends in 1 hand at a time
& they are passed through dents in the comb of the warping m/c.

This process requires deft use of fingers, hence girls are preferably employed.

Warp beam is spun by the drum, which also decides the speed of the m/c

Rotary V shaped creel arrangement . 44 rows of 8 cones each make the creel.

Sensors & LED display for detection of yarn breaks, which is then retied & wound.

With every yarn break, there is stoppage of beam

automatically.

SECTIONAL WARPING
The main object of the warping is to produce the warp
sheet according to the warp pattern and formation of warp
beam.
Sectional warping is done when one needs to produce
some design i.e. beam contain some different colors of
yarn then sectional warping is used. In sectional warping,
the warp threads are wound on the warping drum
sectionally. After winding on drum it is then taken on
weavers beam. The yarns which are coming from
DOUBLE YARN ROOM are going for winding for
preparing required amount of package. Then they are then
creeled according to the warp pattern.
OBJECTIVE

With the help of the creel, to accumulate required no. of ends on drum, section by
section, according to the design.

To facilitate to insert lease in the warp sheet with the help of the leasing reed so
as to keep all the warp ends intact in their sequential position.

To collect all the warped ends from drum and to facilitate to wind them in a
beam.

To apply requisite amount of wax coating on the warp ends during beaming to
reduce hairiness of the yarn and thus producing a weavers beam.
37

DRAWING-IN & DENTING-IN

Drawing-in is the process of drawing the warp yarns through
the heald shafts according to the weave plan. Denting-in is
the process of drawing the warp yarns through reed wires, as
per the reed count. Both processes are done in the loom gaiting operation
(preparation for production)
Drawing In
In weaving, it is necessary to space the warp threads properly in order to get the required
compactness of the cloth. This is affected by passing the warp yarn through the dents of the
reed of appropriate count so that the cloth woven from
the warp may contain the required number of threads
Manual Drawing In
The process is carried out on an upright frame. The beam
is brought on a trolley and placed at the bottom of the
frame. The operative opens knots on the warp section
and then the yarn is passed through 2 lease rods and then
through drop wires, heald frames and reed. The heald shafts and reed are held on separate
brackets.

The operation of drawing in is carried out in the following manner. One operative is called
the reacher and the other is called the drawer who sits in front of the frame. At the start,
the reacher takes a bunch of warp threads in his hand, straightens them up and selects the
yarn one by one from one extreme end of the loom beam in the proper sequence. By this
time, the drawer inserts the hook through the corresponding heald eyes. At the extreme end
of one heald as soon as the hook reaches the other side, i.e. on the side of the reacher the
latter will insert the appropriate end in the eye of the hook which will be immediately
drawn on the other side by the drawer.

For manual drawing-in, the speed is around 5000 ends per shift. Special incentives are
given to those who cross a particular limit when it comes to extra number of threads drawn
in.

38

RAPIER WEAVING
In Rapier looms, the weft insertion element
resembles a rapier or a thin bladed straight
sword; hence the name Rapier Weaving. There
are many varieties of Rapier systems such as
single, double, flexible, rigid, telescopic and two
phased. A Rapier in its simplest form consists of
a single rigid bar, solid or telescopic and a damp
device called gripper head screwed at its feed
end. Here the control over the weft is positive during the whole pick insertion cycle. The
rapier may be also be of the rigid rod type or flexible, made of metal or plastic tapes.
Flexible tapes invariably need guide meters inside the shed that emerge during the pick
insertion and sink back into the sley before beat-up. The
Rigid rapiers that include telescopic type remain suspended from the fulcrum and may get
help from right upper warp sheet.

FEATURES OF RAPIER WEAVING MACHINE

Electronically controlled weft tensioned reduces the yarn tension especially during
insertion.

Automatic package switching device prevents the machine from being stopped in the
even weft break between the package and weft feed. The weavers can repair the fault
while the machine is running and reactivate the unit that has been stopped.

Electronically controlled warp let-off and cloth take up units ensure a high degree of
fabric regularity and prevents all kinds of start and stop marks.

Grippers are redesigned to ensure better clamping of the yarn and prevent rubbing
against the warp yarns.

Electronic monitoring control systems have simplified the communication with the
machine and facilitated its easy handling by anyone concerned with the operation of the
machine.

39

Advantages of Rapier looms:

Need of smaller shed than one required by a shuttle to pick weft across cloth

Reduced strain upon warp threads

Run at 4-5 times the speed of conventional looms

Reduces physical & mental strain on the weaver as they are easier to work &
manipulate

No risk of shuttle flying out or trapping of shuttle in a smaller shed

Power consumption is about 1/3rd than that in conventional loom of same width

Weaves upto 2-4 times as much as fabric per unit time

Disadvantages of Rapier looms :

High breakages of warp & weft due to very high speed
Limited type of fabrics can be woven

40

LOOM SHED
Divided into 4 units having total 120 looms.
Shed A

22 machines (looms),dorneir cimmco

Machine specs :

Type dornier

Manufacturer : cimmco ltd

Non-electronic / non automatic

Reed space or max allowed width of fabric : 190cm

Avg rpm range : 200-260

Max heald shafts : 20

Colour selector max : 8

Dobby : 2232 staubli(mechanical dobby )

Shed B

42 machines (looms), dorneir htv

Machine specs :

Type HTVS s/8

Manufacturer : dorneir germany

Fully automatic and electronic

Reed space or max allowed width of fabric : 190cm

Average prod rate of a loom : 12 m per hr

Avg rpm range : 380-420

Max heald shafts : 20

Colour selector max : 8

Dobby : 2667 staubli(electronic and automatic dobby )

Automatic Pick finding mechanism

41

Shed C

16 machines (looms),sulzar

8 machines (looms).cimmco
dornier

Machine specs (sulzar):

Type sulzar

Non-electronic / non automatic

Reed space or max allowed

width of fabric : 190cm

Avg rpm range : 200-250

Max heald shafts : 20

Colour selector max : 8

Dobby : 2400 staubli(mechanical dobby )

Shed D

32 machines (looms),picanol

Machine specs :

Type :picanol gtx

Reed space or max allowed width of

fabric : 220cm

Electronic / automatic

Avg rpm range : 320-400

Max heald shafts : 20

Colour selector max : 8

Dobby : 2660 staubli(electronic dobby )

42

Stop motions

blue light warp breakage

yellow light weft breakage

yellow-red light emergency switch

yellow light continuous blink end of weaving length

red light fault in machine

red light continuous blink fault in the machine projectile

manual stop

General facts related to weaving section :

1 labour for handling 6 machines

1 mechanical supervisor for each shed

Jacquard is used for monogram on each side (in the form of continuous running
strip along the selvedge)

Monogram strip can be weaved through the dobby too.but jacquard is used for
small English alphabets and finer finishes .

43

DOBBY SHEDDING
A Dobby Loom is a type of floor loom that controls the whole warp threads using a device
called a dobby. Dobby is short for "draw boy" which refers to the weaver's helpers who
used to control the warp thread by pulling on draw threads.
COMPUTER CONTROLLED DOBBY MECHANISM

A computer controlled dobby loom (Computer-Dobby) takes this one step

further by replacing the mechanical dobby chain with computer controlled shaft
selection. In addition to being able to handle sequences that are virtually
unlimited, the construction of the shaft sequences is done on the computer screen
rather than by building a mechanical dobby chain.

This allows the weaver to load and switch weaves drafts in seconds without even
getting up from the loom. In addition, the design process performed on the
computer provides the weaver with a more intuitive way to design fabric; seeing
the pattern on a computer screen is easier than trying to visualize it by looking at
the dobby chain.
Dobby looms expand weavers capabilities and remove some of the tedious work
involved in designing and producing fabric. Many newer cloth design techniques such
as network drafting can only reach their full potential on a dobby loom.

44

WEAVING MECHANISM

There are three motions of weaving: These are primary, secondary and auxiliary
motion.
1. Primary motions : Every loom requires three primary motions to produce a woven
fabric. These motions are Shedding, Picking and beating.
a. Shedding : Shedding is the name given to the motion, which moves heald frame up
and down in order to separate the warp sheet into two layers and form the shed in
which weft yarn is passed.
b. Picking : Picking is the second primary motion in which weft yarn is passed
through the shed. This is known as picking.
c. Beating-up : Beating up is where the reed, mounted in a reciprocating sley, pushes
the weft into the fell of the cloth to form fabric. This requires considerable force,
hence the term beating-up. The crankshaft of the loom is responsible for the beat-up
action which must take place after each weft insertion and so it will make one
revolution per pick inserted.
2. Secondary motions : There are two secondary motions in weaving namely let-off and
take-up.
a. Let-Off : The let-off motions ensure that the warp ends are controlled at the
optimum tension for the fabric that that is being woven.
b. Take-up : The cloth take-up motions withdraw cloth from the fell and then collect
it at the front of the loom.
3. Auxiliary motions : Auxiliary motions are warp stop motion, warp protector, weft
stop motions and weft replenishment.
a. Warp stop motion : Warp stop motions halt the loom when a drop wire falls as a
result of end breakage.
b. Warp protector motion : Warp protector motions stop the loom before beat-up in
the event of projectile falling to complete its traverse from one side of the loom to
the other side.
c. Weft stop motion : Weft stop motion halts the loom in the event of a break in the
weft yarn.
d. Weft replenishment : Weft replenishment ensures a continuous supply of weft
yarn to the loom whenever a supply package becomes exhausted.
45

PRODUCTION CALCULATIONS

Loom efficiency =

Actual production
Calculated production

Actual running time

X 100

X 100

Actual running time + Stopped time

Production per shift = RPM X 60 X 8 X efficiency

(In meters)
PPI X 39.37

Production per shift = RPM X 60 X 8 X efficiency

(In yards)
PPI X 36

46

Problems in Weaving Section:

Loom Defects:
1) Reed Marks : Caused in the fabrics due to damaged reed,bent reed wires, wrong denting
2) Loom stopping : Causes are broken warp, broken or exhausted weft
Fabric Defects:
Warp Defects :

Warp breakages / Broken ends : Occurs when Warp yarn tension exceeds the yarn
strength

Wrong Ends : When more than one end breaks at the same time, there is a chance
that they may be drawn through the wrong healds.

Selvedge defects : Corded selvedges,small or big loops, rough, curly or wavy

selvedges, slack & tight selvedges, curling selvedges.

Weft Defects :

Weft breakages & Mispicks : Causes can be tender yarns, harsh picking, defective
weft winding

Thin & Thick Places : Thin places are caused by irregular let-off and/or take-up
motions.

Thick places are made of weft being unduly crowded due to take-up motion
missing & failing to turn the cloth roller.

Tight Picks : Caused due to cops/weft packages wound too tightly.May cause the
cloth to curl.

Cracks : Open streak or irregular stripe, parallel to the weft,extends part or fully
across the fabric.

Slugs : Caused when the weft yarn is of irregular diameter and/or contains slubs.It
is an abruptly thickened place in the yarn

Set Mark : Horizontal Mark across the cloth in which there are abnormal no. of
picks per inch

47

Classification of major and minor defects:-

Types of defects

Minor

Major

Stains

At more than one place

Missing ends

1-3 cm

More than 3 cm

Cracks

1-2 picks

More than 2 picks

Thick places

Up to 2 picks for lighter

More than 3 picks

variety
Broken picks

Less than half the width

More than half the width

of the fabric

of the fabric

Floats/Stitches

Less than 1 cm

1-5 cm

Slubs

2 slubs in weft of size

More than 2 slubs in weft

less than 1 cm

of size less than 1 cm

Filament rupture

More than 1 place

Double pick/Lashing - in

Occurring less frequently

Occurring more
frequently

48

Conclusion: The first point to be noted is that the quality of the fabric at the loom is determined by the
entire sequence of operations from weaving preparatory to weaving. The approach should
therefore be to consider each process in relation to the manner in which it affects the
subsequent process and not in isolation. In this context it should be remembered that
though the preparatory department and the loom shed both contribute substantially to the
fabric quality and loom productivity, the conversion cost at the loom shed is greater than
that of preparatory, and so maximum emphasis should be given to the quality of
preparation at the preparatory rather than its productivity.
There should be a systematic and periodic checking of the loom mechanism and
accessories in order to ensure that their contributions to fabric defects are minimum.
Effective quality round should be made by the jobbers and the supervisors at least twice
per shift. This will eliminate continuing type of fabric faults to a greater extent. If a defect
is noticed it should be rectified immediately. Training of workers and making them quality
or value loss consciousness is a preventive method of avoiding weaving defects.

49

INSPECTION
Purpose of this department is to check for defects
on the woven fabric roll. The inspection id done in
accordance with the 4 point system.
This was carried out on machines where the roll
was monitored warp wise against an illuminated
background screen such that the lamina of the
fabric was visible & the operator could stop &
mark a defect where he found a defect in the fabric.

50

PART-3
QUALITY CONTROL

51

AT OCM, there was a separate department dedicated to testing of

the fabric. The department was basically divided into two labs:

Research and development lab

Inspection section

Research and development lab

This department is used for testing fibers, yarns and fabrics. This department actually
consists of machines that carries out various tests at different stages, viz, fibre stage, yarn
stage and the fabric stage.

1. FIBER TESTING
Parameters of fiber testing are,

Length

Yarn count

Strength

TPI

Single Yarn Strength

Twist Multiplier

Machines used for fiber testing were as follows:

ph meter
microscope
spectrophotometer
fiber testing methods and euipments

2. YARN TESTING
The important characteristics of yarn being tested are,

yarn twist

linear density

yarn strength

yarn elongation

yarn evenness

yarn hairiness etc.

52

Machines used in yarn testing were as follows:

microscope
yarn board matching or appearance tester
digital twist tester
ph meter
dyeing machine
oven
yarn count machine

3. FABRIC TESTING
Machines used in fabric testing are as follows:
tear strength tester-paramount
spray tester- to check water repellancy
martindale abrasion cum piling tester
crockmeter for rubbing test
automatic washing for shrinkage
pilling test equipment
random tumble pilling test
dyeing machine
laundrometer for color fastness
colorfastness to sunlight

TEARING STRENGTH TESTER

To determine tearing strength of knitted and woven fabrics.

Capacity up to 6.400Kgs.

With adjustable cutting knife.

Having three variable capacity 1.600kg, 3.200kg & 6.400kg for different type of fabrics.

Latest design with modern sophisticated look.

Complete with accessories including three calibration weights.

Supplied with inspection & calibration certificates.

SPRAY TESTER (WATER REPELLENCY TESTER)

Used to measure the resistance of fabrics to wetting by water.

Latest economic design.

Specimen holder is fixed at 45 to meet the American standard.
Special funnel, which adheres to the standard.
Complete with all accessories including 500ml beaker, template & marking pen for cutting specimen.
Supplied with calibration & inspection certificates.

MARTINDALE ABRAISION CUM PILLING TESTER

To determine pilling resistance & abrasion resistance of any type of fabrics.
With three variable load 3Kpa, 9kpa, 12kpa to test in different standards.
Ergonomically designed digital control panel with display for four individual stations.
All control & components strictly adheres to C E Mark specifications for safety.
Emergency stop switch to stop testing, in urgent, without hindering setting.

CROCKMETER

To determine the Colour fastness of Textile to Dry or

Wet Rubbing as per ISO/European Standards.

Ergonomic latest design with modern appearance with precision-engineered components.

Electronic, re-settable LCD Counter.
Easy to use, Polycarbonate Specimen Clamps.
Dual Metal Sample Holder for specimen Testing and Garment Testing.
Complete with all accessories including pre-cut (50 x 50 mm) 400 crocking clothes, 16mm Finger and
finger clips, blotting papers etc.
4

COLOUR MATCHING CABINET

To access the colour matching of Yarns & dyed or

printed fabrics or any material anyway coloured.

Latest Design & economical colour matching Cabinets for American buyers.
The control panel is ergonomically designed for operator comforts.
This consists of six standard light sources, D 65,CWF,Inc A,UVB,U 30,and TL 84.
Interior paint, matching with Munsell N/7, which strictly adheres to the American standards.
Easy Foldable type metal sheet body eases transportation & Installation.
Supplied with calibration & Inspection Certificates.

DIGITAL TWIST TESTER

Used to determine the twist per inch/cm.

Specially designed for single yarn, double yarn & open-end yarns.
Smooth precision-engineered mechanism.
1 & 50gms weight supplied to give proper tension during testing.
Digital control panel with LCD display.
Complete with all accessories
Supplied with calibration & inspection certificates.

PH METER

Used to evaluate the Ph value of any solution.

Portable in size.

Digital with microprocessor control.

With digital display of Ph up to one decimal.
Complete with all accessories-Ph-7 & 4 capsules, beakers, and electrode stand. Etc.
Supplied with calibration & inspection certificates.

YARN EVENNESS TESTER

To access the yarn irregularities (like thick

place, thin place, slubs etc.)
Two different types of boards supplied for
winding the yarn.
Specially designed Separate unit for holding
yarn bobbin.
Yarn wrapped on the board
20,22,26,32,38 & 48 ends per inch.

can

be

Six traverse speed options for fine to coarser

count of yarn.
Supplied with all accessories.
Supplied with
certificates.

calibration

&

inspection

MICROSCOPE

Used for fibre analysis or fibre identification.

With maximum resolution of 1000X.
Any type of measurement like length, area, count of
any fine textile fibre can be done.
This is the best option for Textile fibre analysis.
Enlarged view due to projection on 360? graduated
screen.
Supplied with complete accessories including stage
micrometer for calibration.
Supplied with calibration & inspection certificates.
DYEMASTER

To do sample dyeing with infrared heating.

200ml twelve beakers supplied to dye 12 samples
together & temperature up to 140 degree C with
infrared lights.

Eco-friendly equipment, which does not give any residue & Latest
microprocessor based control panel for temperature & time.
Inside dye assembly pot moves at variable speed in both directions.
Stainless steel body & beakers gives rust-less long life & Smooth, precisionengineered components for exceptional performance.
Special cooling blower for instant cooling of the bath.
Supplied with all accessories along with tong for removing beakers.
Supplied with calibration & inspection certificates.

WASHOMETER

The washometer is used for determining color fastness of

textile materials to washings. This is attained by
mechanical agitating a specimen of textile in contact with
pieces of specified adjacent fabrics in a soap-soda
solution, before being rinsed and dried.
The change in color of the specimen and staining of the adjacent fabrics are
assessed with standard gray scales

PILLING TESTER

Digital Pilling Tester consists of two

wooden cubical Boxes with inside surfaces
lined with special standard cork sheet and
outside surfaces beautifully laminated.
These boxes are rotated about their central
axis at a specified speed with the help of a
geared motor.
A Pre-set Digital Counter stops the motor automatically after the desired number
of revolutions

HOT AIR OVEN

The oven controller has Special T/P action to avoid

overshooting of temperature. It has Stainless Steel
Inside Chamber, Outer is Mild Steel neatly powder
coated.
Complete

with

Hot

air

blower

and

Digital

Temperature Indicator cum Controller. A separate

control panel housing all indicators is provided on the
right side of the main body allowing easy
maintenance and accessibility aesthetically designed
for long life and comfortable usage.
Controlling

Digital Temperature Controller cum

Indicator
Maximum Temperature Range

105-1070C

Power requirement

220V-240V single phase 1 KW

Inside Dimensions

455mm x 455mm x 455mm

INSPECTION LAB
It consists of two sections
1. Inspection section
2. Storage section

Inspection section
The inspection of grey fabric is done in this section.
This the second stage of inspection as fabrics are initially
inspected visually just after the weaving process.
Fabrics sent for mending are also inspected again.
The machine used for inspection is perch machine.
For export quality, 4 point system is used.
No of porch machines- 10
Inspection table- 5 m length
This inspection table is used for mending of defects as well as
cutting of the extra length.
The required length according to the order placed is also cut
here.
Export fabric is generally bundled in 120 m.
Packing
o Civil fabric- Pad folding
o Export quality- rolls

10

FiG. magnifier to count PPI And EPI

Fig. weight measurement

Fig. inspected fabric

Fig. Patrol to remove stain

Figure 2 color fastness test

11

Common defects found n inspection section.

Picking

Stamp mark

Slubby yarn

Tightened

Nappy

Stain

Contaimination

Patches

Float

Selvedge

Damage

defect

Storage section
The storage section incorporates the facility for the storage
of raw material (sliver), yarn for weft and warp as well as
the manufactured fabric.
The 3 different type of storage have different type of
storage techniques.
The slivers and yarns are stored in the shelves with their
coding written on the shelves.

The manufactured fabric is generally transported or shipped

to its destination customer or else it is temporarily stored in
the small warehouse.

PART-5
LEARNING EXPERIENCE

Introduction- Safety Measures

The textile industry consists of a number of units engaged in spinning, weaving, dyeing,
printing, finishing and a number of other processes that are required to convert fibre into a
finished fabric or garment. There are several safety and health issues associated with the
textile industry. This article aims at studying each of these issues in relation to the US and
Indian textile industries in detail, along with the possible solutions for these problems.

The major safety and health issues in the textile industry can be stated as under:
1)

Exposure to cotton dust

2)

Exposure to chemicals

3)

Exposure to noise

4)

Ergonomic issues

The following suggestions can be made to improve the safety and health conditions in
textile units:

The seats of the workers and the tables should be well aligned in height so that
there is no musculoskeletal strain.

There should be proper lighting at the place of work so that eye strain can be
avoided.

Machinery should be well maintained in order to reduce the level of noise. If

necessary, certain parts of machines can be replaced.

In case the noise level cannot be controlled, workers should be provided with
earplugs so that exposure to noise can be reduced.

Workers can be rotated within jobs so that they are not faced with continuous
noise exposure for a long period of time.

There should be proper ventilation at the place of work.

In order to reduce the exposure to dust, workers should be provided with masks.

Trained medical personnel and first aid facilities as well as safety equipments
such as fire extinguishers and fire alarms should be available at the place of work.

In units where there is heavy exposure to dangerous chemicals, workers should be

provided with safety gloves.
5

Proper dust control equipment should be set up and maintained to reduce the
workers exposure to cotton dust.

Medical examinations should be conducted by the employers for the workers from
time to time. If significant occupational health problems are observed, appropriate
measures should be taken by the management.

In OCM industries safety is the major concern in every part of the work .The
industry also implemented the safety precautions in every department.

Providing safety equipment for the workers in different sections for their health
safety.

In the industry there is a fire preventing alarm and fire preventing water facility is
also provided.

For every machine a board is attached which guides how to work on the machine,
to protect themselves from the hazards.

Management also giving awareness to the workers through the fire preventing
boards, and writing boards.

Every department is provided with a first aid box

LEARNING OUTCOME

Our objective of this internship was to understand and observe the basics of spun
yarn production, gray fabric production, dyed and finished fabric production and
their quality particulars, both technical as well as commercial.
As students of Department of Fashion Technology, who specialize in the field of
apparel manufacturing, it was truly a new and enriching experience to go and
understand the various processes carried out in a textile industry. We slogged in
for hours and hours every day and finally what we come back with is
incomparable. The knowledge of textiles has broadened our understanding of
various subjects taught to us in our college.
During our stay at industry we had the splendid opportunity to schedule our lives
according to the hectic routine of the industry. The professional outlook and
approach of the people around us helped us inculcate these qualities in ourselves
too.
Interacting with the high level managers was an experience in itself. It gave us the
better understanding of the managerial skills and how to maintain professional as
well as personal relations with subordinates and superiors. They taught us how to
be professional and yet be friendly while working with the employees and the
operators. Working and obtaining information from operators was a tough task,
with communication barriers and ego issues it was a pretty difficult task. By the
guidance of our HODs we were able to create a congenial environment for
working with them.
At the end we would like to say that this project has greatly improved our
managerial skills. It has exponentially improved our abilities to communicate with
people, our documenting and presentation skills and it has also enhanced our
imaginative and observational power. We learnt how to explore new dimensions
and formulate them according to our needs.

BIBLIOGRAPHY

1. FIBER TO FASHION
2. OCM.IN

ANNEXURE

10