Beruflich Dokumente
Kultur Dokumente
Apollo'sWeatheringTutorial
HOME
STAR WARS OT
STAR WARS PT
STAR WARS EU
Password
COMMUNITY
Remember Me?
CARGO HOLD
GALLERY
Log in
Register
Help
WIKI
If this is your first visit, be sure to check out the FAQ by clicking the link above. You may have to register before you can post: click the register link
above to proceed. To start viewing messages, select the forum that you want to visit from the selection below.
Home
Subscribe
Apollo
#1
Ive been asked a couple of times for a weathering tutorial so Im going to try to catalogue my process as best I am able.
255
The first thing to do after the armor is all ready for paint is to decide what kind of base metal you are going to use. I
have always used different kinds of silvers, but I have seen somebody who used plain grey to emulate duraplast and
Ive seen bronze look really good as well. For a while I used spray paint and there are a lot of options for that. What
really matters when using spray paint is that you use the same brand that the rest of your paint is going to be
Recently I have begun to use rub n buff metallic wax for my base coat. I think this might be overkill on my part since the
metal color doesnt matter a whole lot unless you dont paint over it, but Im practicing for a Jango. There are several
different shades of gold, copper, silver, and pewter available; to this point I have only used silver and pewter. Rub n
buff also requires a lot of prep work before it can be applied. You need to prime your armor, wet sand at 400, and wet
sand at 1000. Better results can be achieved by wet sanding at various other grits going up to 2000 and priming in
between each wet sand.
After your armor is all sanded apply a bunch of small globs of the rub n buff all over the pieces and begin rubbing it
vigorously with the palm of your hand. Rub n buff is a wax so it needs heat to melt it to the primer. You will probably
get smudges and places where the rub n buff will just not stick. This is very frustrating, but it happens to me every
time. At this point you can either: resand and start over, try applying more rub n buff, take the armor as is and move
on to the next stage.
After the rub n buff is on you can make it very lustrous by taking an old t-shirt and buffing it very hard. I spent 10
minutes on each piece when I did this and the results were pretty cool; I could see my own reflection in the armor!
Here are pics of pieces rub n buffed using various methods
Pewter (I have used this color a few times and I have never gotten really good results like I have with silver. Im not sure
why)
http://www.thedentedhelmet.com/f34/apollosweatheringtutorial29520/
1/20
4/1/2016
Apollo'sWeatheringTutorial
Silver buffed (in the ab plate of the first picture, thats not a large smudge; thats actually the reflection of me taking the
picture)
http://www.thedentedhelmet.com/f34/apollosweatheringtutorial29520/
2/20
4/1/2016
Apollo'sWeatheringTutorial
http://www.thedentedhelmet.com/f34/apollosweatheringtutorial29520/
3/20
4/1/2016
Apollo'sWeatheringTutorial
http://www.thedentedhelmet.com/f34/apollosweatheringtutorial29520/
4/20
4/1/2016
Apollo'sWeatheringTutorial
Now on to the painting! This is definitely my favorite part of the whole costume building process. I use layered
weathering which means that I have a basecoat, and then I paint on all the layers while masking off portions of the
armor between each layer. I used to use toothpaste and then I used rubber cement, but now I use liquid latex masking
fluid. This stuff costs 15 bucks for a small bottle so toothpaste or rubber cement are really much more cost effective.
http://www.thedentedhelmet.com/f34/apollosweatheringtutorial29520/
5/20
4/1/2016
Apollo'sWeatheringTutorial
Apply your masking fluid to wherever you want the metallic color to show through. Remember that you want to leave
room for your aesthetic primer so make your damage a little smaller than you see it in your mind. Weathering needs to
be random, but it also needs to make sense. The edges of metal plates weather a lot faster than the inside; the same
goes for raised surfaces. When doing the rest of your weathering make sure to mix up damage type (scratches,
scrapes, dings, blast marks), size (small scrapes, long scratches, etc.) and placement (even spaced damage all over the
armor doesnt actually make sense). If your armor had any stripes or sigils on it make sure that the paint chipping
overlaps them too. Its a little thing, but showing that individual bits of weathering are not confined to certain colors
makes the whole piece look much more realistic.
After youre done masking the base metal apply a few coats of your aesthetic primer. After is dries mask off areas of
the primer and apply a few coats of your topcoat. At this point you can begin to rub the armor with your finger to
remove the masking fluid (or wash your armor under a faucet to get rid of the toothpaste) to see how the weathering
looks. Pat yourself on the back; the hardest part is done!
*on this set I used Krylon Ruddy Brown primer in between my aesthetic grey primer and the burgundy topcoat. It can
make your armor look slightly rusted, but it should only be used sparingly or else it loses the effect*
At this point you can begin to paint on any stripes, markings, sigils you want. If youre going with basic geometric
shapes its fairly easy to just make their outlines with blue painters tape, but detailed designs are more difficult. Im
going with 2 stripes going down the armor on this set so I just lined up all of the painters tape and then used ripped up
pieces of newspaper to cover the rest of the armor. I applied my masking fluid and then laid down the ivory paint for
the stripes. I remove the masking fluid before doing sigils and designs because after enough layers of paint the latex is
really hard to get up, and because repositioning the painters tape always rips up some of the masking fluid anyways.
Here are the stripes painted, but before the masking fluid is removed
http://www.thedentedhelmet.com/f34/apollosweatheringtutorial29520/
6/20
4/1/2016
Apollo'sWeatheringTutorial
http://www.thedentedhelmet.com/f34/apollosweatheringtutorial29520/
7/20
4/1/2016
Apollo'sWeatheringTutorial
http://www.thedentedhelmet.com/f34/apollosweatheringtutorial29520/
8/20
4/1/2016
http://www.thedentedhelmet.com/f34/apollosweatheringtutorial29520/
Apollo'sWeatheringTutorial
9/20
4/1/2016
Apollo'sWeatheringTutorial
After all of your painting is done the last part is topical grime weathering. Ive been pleased to see lately that a lot more
people are taking the time to do this step on their armor, and it makes a huge difference. Its one of those things that
people might not be able to put their finger on, but they will notice if your battle scarred mando is perfectly clean.
There are a couple different ways to achieve the dirt on your armor. Misting with spray paint can look really good if
done lightly enough and airbrushing is also very nice. Ive seen people use artists chalk and even actual dirt as well.
Another very popular method that I have never tried out is blackwashing which involves mixing water and black paint
and spraying it on your armor. Which method you choose will be determined by what materials you have easily
available to you and what environment your mando predominantly works in. Ash and soot look different from dirt.
I use mixtures of acrylic paint, and on this set I just need basic dirt colors. Black, burnt umber, and raw umber are
mixed in equal parts and then applied with a napkin. The exact technique takes practice to get down, but basically I
add a little bit of paint and then wipe it off and then add some more and maybe wipe it off. Ill keep on going like this
until I get patterns that I like. The key is to get the paint stuck in the crevices created by all your layers of paint since
thats how real dirt would accumulate. Remember to be random here too, but apply the most dirt on the edges of
pieces and in those crevices.
http://www.thedentedhelmet.com/f34/apollosweatheringtutorial29520/
10/20
4/1/2016
Apollo'sWeatheringTutorial
I learned this particular topical weathering technique from SEEKER on TDH and he has a video that shows it near the
end (about 6:13). His technique works well for light weathering whereas I generally go for something a bit heavier
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=rItYKAEbt90
Some close ups of the grime in the crevices
http://www.thedentedhelmet.com/f34/apollosweatheringtutorial29520/
11/20
4/1/2016
http://www.thedentedhelmet.com/f34/apollosweatheringtutorial29520/
Apollo'sWeatheringTutorial
12/20
4/1/2016
http://www.thedentedhelmet.com/f34/apollosweatheringtutorial29520/
Apollo'sWeatheringTutorial
13/20
4/1/2016
Apollo'sWeatheringTutorial
And thats it! Here are some pics of the finished pieces so you can see how it comes out.
http://www.thedentedhelmet.com/f34/apollosweatheringtutorial29520/
14/20
4/1/2016
Apollo'sWeatheringTutorial
PM me with any questions, or ask here so other people can see too.
Quote
Sponsored Links
http://www.thedentedhelmet.com/f34/apollosweatheringtutorial29520/
15/20
4/1/2016
Apollo'sWeatheringTutorial
Become a member for 90 days and create 50 posts and you won't see these
ads.
Register now!
Boba Leo
#2
Wau man, you have left me without words friend, I have to work in my gauntlets (ROTJ version) and I believe that from
here I will study as making it, thank you!!!!!!!!!
903
Quote
maycol
#3
the weathering looks just so real... man you are great, i like the close up pics
226
Quote
SeattleZam
formerly Shiruba
#4
Awesome effect! Okay, question: Are you using any fixatives to hold the paint on? Like a light spray of Krylon matte
fixative?
Thanks
Deunan Shiruba
126
Quote
Apollo
#5
I used a clear coat once before to help the paint adhere to the rub n buff, but it made the rub n buff not look as
authentically metal so I skipped that this time and I didn't have any trouble. The key is to just lay down a ton of coats so
that it won't come up easily. If I could go back I think I would lay down a coat of primer in between each color to make
the colors more pure, but that's just a small thing
Member Since: Feb 2008
Posts:
255
Quote
http://www.thedentedhelmet.com/f34/apollosweatheringtutorial29520/
#6
16/20
4/1/2016
Apollo'sWeatheringTutorial
#6
SEEKER
Awesome work!!!
4,399
Quote
Murphoid
#7
Wow! That's some amazing weathering there, bud! Is that a single thick coat to make the chipped paint look so
distinctly layered, or several coats?
343
Quote
Apollo
#8
255
Quote
stussy
#9
hello, I was wondering where I can get "Rub & Buff"? I live in Canada and I checked in my local Canadian Tire store
today but they don't carry it. The guy I was speaking to was looking at me like I was an alien or star wars character or
something.
Member Since: Nov 2008
Posts:
90
Apollo
#10
I get mine at A.C. Moore; if you have any kind of craft/hobby store that's where I'd check. My store keeps it with the
picture frames
255
Quote
http://www.thedentedhelmet.com/f34/apollosweatheringtutorial29520/
17/20
4/1/2016
Apollo'sWeatheringTutorial
Duran Lomax
formerly Boba_Fett_03
#11
Whoa, awesome tutorial! I've had trouble painting/weathering before, but this should help immensely. Thank you very
much for posting this!
253
Quote
boba is killer
#12
21
Quote
Siygess
#13
Hey Apollo, just wanted to say thanks for the excellent tutorial. I just painted up my kids trashcan armour (link here)
and although I made a ton of mistakes along the way I'm pretty happy with the overall look. I also learned some
important lessons:
toolguy301
#14
860
Quote
http://www.thedentedhelmet.com/f34/apollosweatheringtutorial29520/
#15
18/20
4/1/2016
Apollo'sWeatheringTutorial
RBF
#15
I think that ALOT of people here should study this thread really good.
You' re work is amazing. I feel inspired by this and I' m certain I' ll try this layered approach aswell.
2,173
My weathering is all topical, which is much easier to apply, but doesn' t get the same awesome results as this kind of
weathering.
Simply amazing!! I hope alot of custom builders take this thread to heart.
Quote
bogeyphobia99
#16
Boy am I gad I stumbled across this. I'm currently in the process of figuring out all of the details to my first custom
Mandalorian. Nothing has been on my mind with regards to this project more than how I'm going to paint the armor
and whether or not to weather it (not much experience in this area, hence the indecisiveness). I'm actually looking
forward to trying my hand at weathering now after seeing this! Now all I have to do is get the armour...
12
Quote
Dahone
#17
Nice little gem of thread to be brought back to life for a new generation of paint ups! Sticky-worthy?
251
Quote
bogeyphobia99
#18
12
Quote
Nauur Baatir
#19
Definitely worthy
234
http://www.thedentedhelmet.com/f34/apollosweatheringtutorial29520/
19/20
4/1/2016
Apollo'sWeatheringTutorial
Quote
tekering
#20
Glad I found this thread! This is exactly the information I was looking for. Your work is very inspiring.
Kudos to Siygess for his tips, too; I've had so much trouble spray-painting outside that I've given up entirely, and
instead converted my bath and shower into a spray alcove.
I never used the bathtub anyway. -_Member Since: Sep 2011
Posts:
74
Quote
darthjones
Member Since: Aug 2011
Posts:
#21
Hey! Well, I'm trying some of this but my metal coat is an acrylic lacquer. Once it is dry (after a week or more) is there a
limit to the kind of primer I can put back over it?
I thought I would just use automotive primer like I did underneath it.
Quote
Esa
#22
Quote
Quick Navigation
Top
Similar Threads
Weathering tutorial - COMMENTS AND CRITIQUES WELCOME
By CuteLucca in forum Expanded Universe Bounty Hunters
Replies: 73
Last Post: Nov 23, 2015, 6:02 PM
Apollo's Build
By Apollo in forum Expanded Universe Bounty Hunters
Replies: 79
Last Post: Aug 21, 2010, 8:56 AM
Is there a tutorial?!
By LegoPi3 in forum Boba Fett Helmet
My quick and easy weathering tutorial.
By goldenrod in forum Expanded Universe Bounty Hunters
Would a tutorial w/pics actually help?-Added vest tutorial
By LisaFett in forum Boba Fett Costume
Replies: 2
Last Post: Oct 3, 2008, 6:02 PM
Replies: 4
Last Post: May 8, 2008, 12:19 PM
Replies: 20
Last Post: Oct 31, 2002, 9:27 PM
-- TDH Default
http://www.thedentedhelmet.com/f34/apollosweatheringtutorial29520/
20/20