Filler slabs are just as the phrase states a slab with filler material.

The concept behind a filler slab is to not compromise on the strength of the slab while
reducing material usage and hence reduce the overall cost. It is said that almost 25%
cost saving comes into the picture through Filler Slabs.
The science behind it
Two prime materials for a slab are concrete and steel . Technically speaking, concrete
is very good at resisting compression and steel handles the tension. When you look
at a slab, because of its weight, there would tend to be a bit of a sag. So the
compression zone in the slab would be on the upper portion and the tension would
occur at the bottom. By introducing the steel rods at the bottom, there is no need for
additional concrete there. Hence this space can be replaced with lighter and cheaper
materials. Hence the filler.
The introduction of cranked steel rods ( as shown in the figure) makes sure that there
is more steel at the bottom

.
Coming to the technique
1.
Select the filler material for the roof. The prime fillers that are used
are: Mangalore tiles (or any other designer tile of relatively the same size),
hollow concrete or terracotta blocks, small pots etc. Or anything that would be
within a square foot. Take into consideration that if the tiles are the material of
choice, then two layers of tiles, one above the other, are to be used. The tile
that is being exposed can be a designer one (for example) and the one above
can be a an old reused tile as it will be hidden in the slab. (should help save
the on cost of tiles)
2.
Once the centring (a layer of sheets on which the slab will rest while it is
wet) is set out, the steel rods are prepared, i.e. they are cranked (if l is the
length of the steel rod, then the crank will be l/4 on each side of the rod).
Note: The thickness of the steel bar will have to be determined by a structural
engineer depending on the span of the slab. So assuming one is using 10mm
rods and 12 mm rods, one should be careful to use the thicker rods parallel to
the shorter span of the slab. And the thinner rods on top of that.
3.
On top of the centring sheets apply a cement sand mixture (use more
sand.. this is about 2 inches thick and just acts as a levelled surface which
later on will be removed ). Then a layer of cow dung is applied once it reaches
a semi dry state. On top of that a layer of putty is applied. This an inch thick

4.

5.

6.

7.

(contains more cement, less sand). Let the putty also dry to a semi dry state
and the punctures in the shape of the tile are made in the putty. (Note : the
puncture is only putty deep. The cement surface below that, doesnt need to
be touched.
After that the steel rods are put in place. Note: The spacing of the steel
rods is done in such a way that while planning out the grid of the slab with
respect to the tiles, a spacing of 4 inches is assumed between tiles and also a
one inch overlap over the tile has to considered. In all, a 6 inch space is to be
taken into consideration. The steel rod is placed in the centre of this 6 inch
rib.
Once the steel is laid out, the tiles are also put in place; first the
designer tiles and then above it the old tiles. A small bit of mud mortar is put
in-between the old tile and the new tile, so that it doesnt move when the
concrete is being poured.
Now the skeleton is done. A cement, sand, aggregate mix in the ration of
1:2:4 along with water is prepared and poured over the grid work and allowed
to set for a period of 2 weeks with constant curing. Make sure that when the
concrete is being poured, it should be done at one short and not with breaks
as it would lead to differential drying and hence the formation of cracks.
After this period, shuttering is removed and the uneven surfaces are
plastered and finished off with a coat of paint.

Putting the centering sheets in place.

Putty over the leveled surface

Marking the position of the tiles

The marked surface.

Removing the putty where the tile will be exposed ; creating scratches on the surface
for bonding between this surface and the concrete mix that will be pored over it.

Steel grid work prepared and laid; tiles are placed in pairs with a mud mix between
them.

After placing the tiles.

Concrete mix being poured in slowly.

The mix is pored in the gaps first and then pored over the tiles. This would prevent
the toppling of the tiles.

A finished surface against an unfinished one.

The slab left for drying and cured

over a few days.