What's it like to eat at the world's best sushi bar?

Piece number 14, Saba (??), or skinless mackerel.

Hidden in a basement attached to the Ginza Metro Station, Sukiyabashi Jiro has vaulted into the
worldwide cultural milieu thanks to its appearance on Anthony Bourdain's "No Reservations" TV
show and the recent release of the David Gelb feature-length documentary "Jiro Dreams of Sushi."

Chu-toro is a fatty favorite.7:05-7:09 p.m.

The "Chef's Special Course" comes to a close with Tamago (???), a sweet egg that tastes a bit like
sponge cake.
The Karei cleanses my palate, offering a dose of fishiness without overpowering the taste buds right
away. It is the perfect appetizer, and there's no doubt that Chef Jiro has designed tonight's custom
menu to lead my sense of taste through a special gastronomic journey.

Hamaguri -- a clam by any other name.7:20 p.m.

7:04 p.m.
Unlike any other eel I've ever eaten, it carries a sweet kabayaki taste, and Yoshikazu himself once
again points out "no soy sauce."

We dream of Sayori.7:19 p.m.

A two-piece serving -- one head, one tail -- Kuruma-ebi is a hearty and meaty prawn, with vibrant
coloring, expertly cut to incorporate the flavor of the head, and a complete work of art.

Uni tastes better than it looks. Trust us.7:23-7:26 p.m.

A bottom feeder, Uni is generally something I avoid, but from the hands of Chef Jiro it's a no brainer,
a creamy, rich morsel of the ocean floor.

I bow slightly toward Jiro, acknowledging his skills, and he accepts my show of respect by
reciprocating the action.
Jiro may not say much, and while many previous customers have mistaken his silence as contempt,
the truth is that he speaks volumes with his palms and fingers, which create a combination of fish
and rice that is unmatched by any other.
Aji (??), or horse mackerel, is then served.
I am escorted to one of 10 seats at this shrine to Japanese sushi, offered a warm towel to cleanse my
hands and face, a cup of tea and even a small rubber pad so that my camera doesn't make direct
contact with the altar-like counter top.
With a bit of hesitation, I forgo chopsticks, soy sauce and wasabi altogether for the traditional
fingers-only approach and prepare to enjoy that very first taste of perfection.
7:15 p.m.

Art on a plate -- Kuruma-ebi.7:18 p.m.

A species apparently fed upon by predatory fishes, this Sayori has just become the victim of a redblooded carnivore.
One of Jiro's shokunin, or "craftsmen," then presents me with a bill for ?30,000 (US$375), plus tax,
and kindly reminds that it's cash only.
Anago (???), or saltwater eel, is the final fish in the omakase set.
Kohada (???), or gizzard shad, is next, and while I've never heard of this fish, it's a member of the
herring family and its shiny sliver and blue-spotted skin are so picturesque that I momentarily pause
in awe before popping this bite in my mouth.
Sukiyabashi Jiro Honten, 4-2-15 Ginza Tsukamoto Sogyo Bldg. B1F, Chuo 104-0061 Tokyo
Prefecture; (Ginza Metro Station Exit C6) +81 (0) 3 3535 3600 (reservations must be made from a
Japanese telephone number)
The staff wastes no time, quickly asking if I have any dietary restrictions, and when I answer no,
Chef Jiro and his son Yoshikazu immediately present a menu detailing the 19-piece "Chef's
Recommended Special Course," followed by the first dish, Karei (???), or sole.

While the Akami sets the tone, and the Oo-toro rounds out the movement, it is the Chu-Toro, the
lightly marbleized, medium fatty tuna from the upper belly, paired with a hint of wasabi between the
fish and the rice, that simply melts on my tongue, evaporating into a sublime and heavenly flavor as I
swallow.
7:22 p.m.
But please, "no soy sauce," explain the master chef and his son, the first words they've uttered
during this entire experience.
Sayori (???), or springtime halfbeak, soon arrives, and while not a popular nigiri cut outside of Japan,
it's a beautiful specimen, a long sparkly strip of fish wrapped like a ribbon atop the rice, full of
rounded ridges on one side.
It carries the distinct flavor of clam, but with none of the regular crunchiness found in shellfish
mantle.
Piece number nine is the Tako (??), or octopus.
The quality of the fish is already apparent in these first two pieces, but what's also become clear is
that Jiro's special grade of rice, made available only to him, is the unsung hero of this sushi
combination.
7:16 p.m.
A light, flat fish, the sole is expertly glazed with soy sauce and placed atop a two-inch bed of rice.
7:01 p.m.
Kobashira and Ikura are equally good, the small scallops glazed and tender, the roe larger than
normal, a quick shot of salmon juice squirting out as each individual egg is popped with every chew.

The holy trinity of sushi has arrived: Akami (???), Chu-toro (?????), and Oo-toro (????); a progression
of tuna nigiri, aged up to 10 days, that transitions from the leanest to the fattiest, and ensures that
I'll never again be able to enjoy another store's raw fish in my mouth quite this much.
A naturally slow eater, I'm already have trouble keeping up with Jiro's pace, but I have faith that his
speed is designed to enhance the culinary experience, and I quickly engulf his next cut, Inada (???),
or young yellowtail.
Online clamor has it that the folks at Jiro are wary of non-Japanese, some people even going so far as
to assert the restaurant's service is rude, so I'm extra cautious, but encounter no such attitude.
Walking through the entrance of Sukiyabashi Jiro, I take a deep breath, slowing my heart rate to
match the tranquil environment inside.
Next up is Kuruma-ebi (?????), or tiger shrimp.
One of Sukiyabashi Jiro's many specialties, Tamago is a perfect desert, fluffy and moist, and a

satisfying end to an intense 30 minutes.

Slimy, chewy and engaging -- that's Akagai.7:13 p.m.

Heralded as a Japanese national treasure, Jiro Ono, 86, is the first sushi chef in the world to receive
three Michelin stars, and is the proprietor of the world's most celebrated sushi restaurant, Tokyo's
Sukiyabashi Jiro.
More on CNNGo: How to eat sushi
While the whole experience is priceless, it's time to put a figure on this sushi dream.
Significantly lighter in the wallet region, I surrender. Jiro has lived up to its reputation as the world's
greatest sushi restaurant, and although the price was hefty, the food was certainly worthy.
Minutes earlier, while lost on the streets of Ginza, I was worried about missing the seating on a
three-month-old reservation and the resulting ?15,000 cancelation penalty, but I have arrived on
time, prepared to eat some sushi.

Karei -- like all nigiri, best with fingers.7 p.m.

Rich in flavor and lightly glazed with soy sauce, the Inada is the first real "fishy fish" in the
sequence.

Fresh, fishy, moist and succulent, the Saba is another nigiri slice that simply melts upon
consumption.

Gizzard shad -- herring, but different.7:11 p.m.

Next up, Sumi-ika (????), or squid. Its slightly rubbery texture engages my teeth to chew a bit more
and spread the flavor around my mouth.
Yoshikazu then prepares the soft-yet-crunchy seaweed outer layer for another trio of rich flavor: Uni
(??), or sea urchin, Kobashira (????), or small scallop abductor muscle and Ikura (???), or salmon roe.

Ikura desu ka? Yes it is ...7:28 p.m.

Yet another hit, I quickly take the Aji down, followed by a small bite of pickled ginger.

Here's how the evening went -- spoiler: I was not disappointed.

This really is the entrance to one of the world's best

restaurants.March 29, 2012, 6:58 p.m.
All at once, I'm whisked away to a booth behind the main sushi bar for a slice of juicy honeydew
melon, served for its digestive benefits, and another cup of tea.
The marathon continues with Akagai (????), or ark shell clam. The first shellfish on the menu, the
Akagai carries an interesting slimy texture that is balanced out by an engaging chewiness.

7:02 p.m.

Akami, the entry level to the tuna holy trinity.

Supposedly massaged by Jiro's apprentices for 50 minutes prior to serving, the Tako is chewy,
crunchy and refreshing, and served with a light salt rub.
Served at body temperature, the rice is slightly acidic, carrying a distinct flavor of vinegar, and
subdues the palate to complement the explosive flavors of the fish.

Parting shot -- a cleansing slice of melon.7:31 p.m.

Rather than simply watch the mouthwatering food porn that is Gelb's doc (trailer courtesy of
Magnolia Pictures), I went a step further, traveling directly to the source to offer the following
account of Chef Jiro's legendary soft-handed, two-fingered technique that pairs fresh nigiri cuts from
the Tsukiji fish market with warm and delicate rice.

Egged on, Jiro finishes with Tamago.7:29 p.m.

Hours of operation: 11:30 a.m.-2 p.m., 5:30 p.m.-8:30p.m. Closed on Sundays, public holidays,
Saturday evenings, mid-August and year-end holidays.www.sushi-jiro.jp
Never before have I ever seen such a magnificent clam; the Hamaguri (????), topped with a touch of
sweet glaze, is both chewy and satisfying.
7:37 p.m.
More on CNNGo: Tokyo's Tsukiji fish market in living color