Beruflich Dokumente
Kultur Dokumente
TECHNOLOGY
C. A. Site No. - 21, Sector-1, 27th main road, HSR Layout
Bangalore.
SUBMITTED BY:
ISHITA PANDEY
NEENU SUKUMARAN
RANI TREASA JOSEPH
RASHMI AGARWAL
ACKNOWLEDGEMENT
At the outset, we wish to express our gratitude to everybody who has assisted in
formulation of this report. There are a many to whom expression of gratitude is
inevitable, but there some special people who has to be given prominence, without
whom we would not have reached the conclusion of this project so quickly and so
efficiently.
We wish to thank Mr. A.K. Khare and Mr. Shivalingam for providing this wonderful
opportunity, channeling and motivation.
No amount of Gratitude is adequate for Mr. Rahul Patel and Mr. Amit Patel for their
consent in allowing us to conduct our internship in their venerated institution.
We express our deep indebtedness to Mr. M. K. Chaturvedy, the Human Resource
Manager who guided and supported us through every stage of our internship.
We also wish to thank Mr. H.J Shah, Mr. Daxesh Lala, Mr. Mukesh J. Shah, Mr H.
M. Raval, Mr. Atmaram Patel, Mr. Siraj, Mr .Subhash G. Patel, Mr. Ravin Mehta, Mr.
G. C. Bairi, Mr. Sunil Tailor, Mr. Ganesh Aher and Mr. Ravin Mehta for their
technical guidance and assistance.
We take this opportunity to express our affection towards our parents for their
consistent faith and support.
Ishita Pandey
Neenu Sukumaran
Rani Treasa Joseph
Rashmi Agarwal
INDEX
PREFACE
1. INTRODUCTION TO BHARAT VIJAY MILL
2. DEPARTMENTS
i) OPERATIONS
a) SPINNING
b) YARN DYEING
c) WEAVING
d) GREY FOLDING
e) CORDUROY
f) PROCESSING
g) FINISH FOLDING
h) SQC
i) PRODUCTION PLANNING AND CONTROL
j) LABORATORY
k) ENGINEERING
l) ETP
ii) ADMINISTRATION
a) RETAIL SHOP
b) GENERAL ADMINISTRATION
c) HUMAN RESOURCE DEPARTMENT
d) PERSONNEL
iii) MARKETING
a) MARKETING
b) DESPATCH
c) DESIGN DEPARTMENT
iv) PROCUREMENT
a) PURCHASE
b) STORES
c) WASTE
d) COTTON DEPARTMENT
v) FINANCE
a) ACCOUNTS
3. CONCLUSION
ANNEXURES
PREFACE
The blend of the practice and principle- an industrial internship project transforms the
classroom student into a multidimensional internee. The real life experiences gathered
through the period helps the pupil to learn practical aspects and application of
theoretical knowledge. It provides a huge positive impact on the student in the spheres
of interpersonal skills, exposure, group work and experimentation.
The textile intership at Bharat Vijay mills is evidently the experience which provided
the spectrum of psychophysical knowledge and experience. Located at a centre of rich
culture and nationalistic history, Gujarat, the composite unit expresses a strict
environment which breeds exclusive expansion and development. As a internee at
Bharat Vijay Mills we assume our engrossment of an amount of this superior order
and management.
Our Major Objectives of study were:
1. To study the working environment of the industry
2. To study the departmental processes and their interrelation within the
organization
3. To study the Organisational Structure
We have tried our best to sum up the total work process of the industry through
observations and interactions.
1
INTRODUCTION
1. INTRODUCTION
Established in the year 1931, Bharat Vijay Mills (BVM), a composite textile mill,
initially operated on a very modest scale at Kallol, a town 30 Km in North of
Ahmedabad (India). In 1956, the present management took over. With an infusion of
motivation and enduring commitment to excellence the mill expanded.
It has grown into 50 million US$ group turnover with a dedicated
work force of 1600 people in the textile division. Today, BVM is a vertically
integrated plant having its own spinning to finishing facilities. BVM has been the
undisputed leader in varied product mix for the last 70 years with a continuous
expansion of its product range. Since last 20 years it has established a name in global
market with its Yarn Dyed / Piece Dyed Shirting, Corduroy & Bottom Weight.
BVMs 80% of textile production consists of shirting and 20%
consists of suiting and corduroy. Their renowned buyers are Madhura garments. Allen
Solly, Peter England, Zodiac, San Francisco etc., is their major end buyers. The textile
division consists of 350 staff members and 1800 workers
BVMS VISION:
To achieve global presence in Textile business, through continuous product and
technological innovation, customer orientation and a focus on cost effectiveness,
quality and services.
BVMS MISSION:
Belief in strong customer orientation.
THE GEOSPHERE:
Ahmedabad, one of the fastest-growing cities in western India, is the commercial
capital of Gujarat. Located on the banks of the Sabarmati River, it has had a colourful
history dating back to antiquity unlike the new metropolitan city. It has numerous
fashionable hotels, glittering shopping malls, high-rise business buildings and
innumerable vehicles ranging from the latest sleek limousines to three-wheelers.
Looking back in 1411, the city now known as 'Ahmedabad' was founded by Sultan
Ahmed Shah, who named it after himself. During the Sultanate, the rulers encouraged
the merchants, members and crafts in come to Ahmedabad and make it a flourishing
commercial and industrial city. An imperial atelier was located here, which produced
exquisite textile and other artifacts for the Imperial Court at Delhi. Even in those days,
experts contributed to Ahmedabad's prosperity A hilarious Ahmedabadi is renowned
for his spirit of enterprise. Over a hundred years ago, Indian entrepreneurs established
textile mills in Ahmedabad. Soon enough, the chimneystacks of these modern
composite mills covered almost the entire skyline, giving it the sobriquet 'Manchester
of India' over a hundred years. It is no surprise therefore that Ahmedabad continued to
grow. With the phenomenal increase in population, the demand for more urban
facilities, including accommodation, and the entire infrastructure considered essential
to modern life, began putting a tremendous strain on the existing civic amenities. The
main characteristic of Ahmedabad is that it continues to remain, as it was in the
beginning, a commercial city, and a major center of trade. Today's city, with its
teeming millions, its crowded streets, and burgeoning industries reflects some of these
changes.
Bharat Vijay Mills is expanded spinning mill from 18 million mtrs/yr to 24 million
mtrs/yr at Kalol in Gujarat. As of October 2005, construction work has been initiated
and equipment suppliers were appointed. The spinning mill is scheduled for
commissioning by end 2006. Plans are also on the anvil to set up a readymade
garment facility with an investment of Rs.400 million.
HISTORY OF BVM:
1970s 1980s (while the textile industry faced business/ market crisis)
joined with Sintex (plastic manufacturing company) and sustained the crisis by
manufacturing Sintex plastic tanks
Divided into both textile and plastic with textile consisting of the 1/3 rd of the
income.
GENERAL INFORMATION
Name of the industry:
Bharat Vijay Mills, Kalol, North Gujarat
Address:
Bharat Vijay Mills
(Textile Division of Sintex Industries Ltd)
Kalol (N.G.) 382721, India
Phone: (91-2764)23731(6 lines), 20246, 20793
Fax: (91-2764) 20436
E-mail: bvm@sintex.co.in
www.sintex-india.com
Type of industry:
Composite mill consisting of spinning, weaving and processing
HEADS OF INSTITUTION:
Chairman:
Dineshbhai Patel
Vice Chairman:
Arunbhai Patel
Managing Directors:
Mr. Rahul Patel
Mr. Amit Patel
President Operation (production):
Mr. Ashok Mehta
Human Resource Manager:
Mr. M. K. Chathurvedy
Administration Manager:
currently vacant.
Marketing Manager:
B.C. Sashidharan
Procurement Manager
Mr. R. K. Sharma
CFO
L.M. Rathore
Organization Chart
Managing Directors
President
Operations
Spinning
Weaving
Yarn Dyeing
Engineering
Grey Folding
Processing
Finish
Folding
Lab
SQC
PPC
Design
Corduroy
Ware House
President
Admin.
Personnel
T. K.
I. R.
Public Relation
Security
Retails Shop
Power Plant
General
Administration
Excise
President
Marketing
Marketing
Despatch
President
Procurement
Purchase
Stores
CFO
Finance
Accounts
Secretarial
ORGANISATIONAL HIERARCHY
Managing Director
President
General Manager
Deputy General Manager
Senior Manager
Manager
Deputy Manager
Senior Executive
Trainee (Qualif: B. Sc/Diploma/B.Tech- Stipend Rs.4500 15,000)
Worker (ITI)
PRODUCTION STATUS
56000 meters/day of shirting fabric
1.5 lakh meters of corduroy
PRODUCT
On the product front, company has added various bottom weight qualities in singles as
well as in doubles in addition to existing products like corduroy, yarn dyed and solid
dyed shirti ng's which helps the company to supply widest product range coupled with
small and large quantities of products to meet the demand of garment
manufacturers/exporters. The product range also covers Men's and Ladies apparels
and furnishing etc. l Corduroy for bottom-wear as well as shirting from 4 Wales to 21
Wales per inch l Yarn Dyed stripes, Checks; Fil-a-fil, Chambray's in plains as well as
dobbies l Bottom-weights with different weaves
End use of Products
Skirts
Jackets
Shorts
Furnishing
2
OPERATIONS
DEPARTMENT
2. I. OPERATIONS DEPARTMENT
2. I. a. SPINNING
The cotton fiber grows in the seedpod or boll, of the cotton plant.
Each fiber is a single elongated cell that is flat, twisted, and ribbon like with a wide
inner hollow (lumen).It is composed of about 90 percent cellulose and about 6 percent
moisture; the remainder consists of natural impurities. The outer surface of the fiber is
covered with a protective wax like coating which gives the fiber a somewhat adhesive
quality.
After this hydraulic pressing is done and cotton is been tested for
the quality control. And then it has been sent for even moisture distribution. After all
these processes this bale cotton gone to traders and textile mills receives these bale
cotton from traders. As soon as the cotton arrives at the mill after ginning process in
large bales weighing about 500 pounds (225 kg) each it is been kept for 24 hours. And
then spinning process starts:-
Fan which
distributes
moisture
1. BLENDING
STEPS:
Cotton is passed from bales and then to apron. Apron moves cotton
to blending apron. Blending apron has sharp spikes the raise cotton until part of it is
knocked off by the roll. Some of the cotton stays on apron. The cotton knocked back
by roll and continues to chum and blend until picked up again by apron. Another roll
strips off cotton that was not knocked back by previous roll. Cotton falls on conveyor
belt and is carried to next process.
WHY ITS BEEN DONE?It is necessary so as to obtain uniformity of fiber quality.
2. OPENING
STEPS:
Lint cotton falls on apron and passes between feeder rolls to
beater cylinder. The rapidly whirling beater blades take off small tufts of cotton,
knock out trash, and loosen up the mass. The two screen rolls are made of screen
material and air is sucked out of them by fan. This draws the
cotton from beater and condenses it on the surface of the
screen rolls from which it is taken and passed on by the small
rolls. Air suction through cotton takes out dirt and trash.
Conveyor belt passes cotton to another type of beater. From
beater the cotton passes to a conveyor and is carried to (Cotton going through the
picker.
WHY ITS BEEN DONE?-
hopper. The fiber is mixed and passed to an opener. As the mass of fiber passes
through the opener, cylinders with protruding fingers open up the limp and free the
trash. The kind and number of cylinders or beaters, employed depend upon the type of
cotton that is being processed. The commonly used porcupine beater revolves about
1000 revolutions per minute. As the cotton is opened, trash falls through a series of
grid bars. When the cotton emerges from the opener, it still contains small tufts with
about two-thirds of the trash. It may be conveyed as lap.
GBR- Here the cottons are fed for homogenous mixtures and for
removing dirts.MPM-8 it has got 8 chambers. Generally used for homogenous
mixture of fibers like while harvesting some cotton are from matured plants and some
are not. So that it will affect the fabric. So, after homogenous mixing all will be the
same.
(Formation of lap)
(Laps formed)
600 sec
50s Count
666 sec
20s Count
500 sec
3. CARDING PROCESS:
Before the raw stock can be made into yarn, the remaining
impurities must be removed, the fibers must be disentangles, and they must be
straightened. The straightening process puts the fibers into somewhat parallel
CARDING. The work is done by carding machine.
The lap is passed through a beater section and drawn o rapidly
revolving cylinder covered with very fine hooks or wire brushes slowly moves
concentrically above this cylinder. As the cylinder rotates, the cotton is pulled by the
cylinder through the small gap under the brushes; the teasing action removes the
remaining trashes, disentangles the fibers , and arranges them in a relatively parallel
manner in form of a thin web. This web is drawn through a funnel shaped device that
molds it into a round rope like mass called card sliver. Card sliver produces carded
yarns or carded cottons serviceable for inexpensive cotton fabrics.
STEPS:
The lap from pucker unrolls and feed roll passes cotton licker in roll
(covered with saw toothed wire).The licker in roll passes fiber against cleaner bars
and gives it up to large cylinder which passes between the thousands of fine wires on
surface of cylinder and on flats. The cotton follows large cylinder to doffer cylinder,
which remove lint from large cylinder. The doffer comb vibrates against doffer
cylinder and takes lint off in a filmy web that passes through condenser rolls, coiler
head, and then into can. The sliver may be passed from one can to combing for further
removal of foreign matter and parallelization of fiber or directly to drawing.
4. DOUBLING PROCESS:
After carding, several slivers are combined. This results in a
relatively narrow lap of compactly placed staple fibers. The compactness of these
fibers permits this cotton stock to be attenuated, or drawn out, to a sliver of smaller
diameter without falling apart.
5. COMBING PROCESS:
When the fiber is intended for fine yarns, the sliver is put through
an additional straightening called COMBING. In this operation, fine-toothed combs
continue straightening the fibers until they are arranged with such a high degree of
parallelism that the short fibers, called noils, are combed out and completely separated
out from the longer fibers.
The combing process forms a comb sliver made of the longest fibers, which, in turn,
produces a smoother and more even yarn. This operation as much as 25% of the
original card sliver; thus almost one fourth of the raw cotton becomes waste. The
combing process, therefore, is identified with consumer goods of better quality. Since
long-staple yarns produce stronger, smoother, and more serviceable fabrics, quality
cotton goods carry labels indicating that they are made from combed yarns or combed
yarns.
(Combing process)
6. DRAWING PROCESS:
The combining of several fibers for the drawing, or drafting,
process eliminates irregularities that would cause too much variation if the slivers
were pulling through singly. The draw frame has several pairs of rollers, each
advanced set of which revolves at a progressively faster speed. This action pulls the
staple lengthwise over each other, thereby producing longer and thinner slivers. After
several stages of drawing out, the condensed sliver is taken to the slubber, where
rollers similar to those in the drawing frame draw out the cotton further. Here the
slubbing is passed to the spindles, where it is given its first twist and is then wound on
bobbins.
STEPS:
Her six cans that were filled at cards feed each drawing from delivery. The spoons are
connected so that if any one of the six slivers from can should break, the machine
automatically stops. This prevents making uneven yarn later. Each of four set of rolls
runs successively faster than preceding set. The last set runs approximately six times
as the first set; consequently, sliver coming out is the same size as each one of six
going in. but is attenuated to six times the length per minute. The sliver is neatly
coiled again in roving can by coiler head. The sliver is now much more uniform and
fibers much more nearly parallel. The sliver is now ready for roving frames.
(Inner arrangement-helical)
(Cover)
7. ROVING PROCESS:
These bobbins are placed on the roving frame, where further
drawing out and twisting take place until the cotton stock is about the diameter of a
pencil lead. There are two stages of roving; intermediate and fine. The operations are
identical, but each machine yields a finer product than the stock is received. Roving is
the final product of several drawing out operations. It is a preparatory stage for the
final insertion of twist. To this point, only enough twist has been given the stock to
hold the fibers together. Roving has not tensile strength; it will break apart easily with
any easy pull.
STEPS:
The can of sliver from drawing frames is fed between three sets
of drafting rolls. Each following set of rolls runs faster than preceding sets. This pulls
sliver and thins it down, making fibers nearly parallel. The spindle turns flyer and is
driven at a constant speed. The front rolls (nearest flyer) are set at a sped that gives
strand coming out of the rolls a predetermined number of turns of twist per inch as it
moves along between rolls and flyer. The bobbin is driven by a source separate from
gear that drives spindle and flyer. The bobbin is regulated to turn automatically at a
speed sufficiently faster than flyer, which causes roving to wind on bobbin at same
rate as it is delivered by front roll.
(Bobbin)
8. SPINNING PROCESS:
The roving, on bobbins, is placed in the spinning frame, where it
passes through several sets of rollers running at successively higher rates of speed and
is finally drawn out to yarn of the size desired. Spinning machines are of two types;
ring frame and mule frame. The ring frame is faster process, but produces a relatively
coarse yarn. for very fine yarns, such as worsted, the mule frame is required because
of its slow, intermittent operation. The ring frame, which is general in use, is more
suitable for the manufacture of cotton yarns in mass production. Its hundreds of
spindles, whirling thousands of revolutions per minute, and its constant spinning
action provide a fast operation. The ring spinning frame completes the manufacture of
yarn (1) by drawing out the roving (2) by inserting twist, and (3) by winding the yarn
on bobbins-all in one operation. The bobbins of yarn are removed for such processing
as may be desired; for example, the yarn may be reeled into skeins for bleaching or
may be wound on cheeses, or spools, for ultimate weaving.
STEPS:
The principle of spinning is same as that used in roving except
that the operation is more refined and a ring and traveler are used instead of the flyer.
From bobbin roving is fed between set of drafting rolls to draw strand down to its
final desired size. The spindle turns bobbin at a constant speed. The front set of rolls
is adjusted to deliver yarn at a speed sufficient to insert desired mount of twist as
strand moves along. The traveler glides freely around ring. The tension caused by
drag of traveler causes yarn to wind on bobbin at same rate of speed as it delivered by
rolls.
(Ring Frame)
COMBED
POLY/COT
BALE OPENING
BALE OPENING
BALE OPENING OF
100%POLYESTER
STACK MIXING
STACK MIXING
STACK MIXING
WITH TINT COLOR
BLOW ROOM
PRE OPENING
BLOW ROOM
CARD
BLOW ROOM
CARD
BREAKER DRAW
FRAME
CARD
FINISHED DRAW
FRAME
PRE COMB
SPEED FRAME
LAP FORMING
RING FRAME
WINDING
WINDING
COMBER
POST COMB
DRAW FRAME
PASSAGE OF
POLYESTER
DRAW FRAME
BLEND
PASSAGE P+C
P/C BLEND
FINAL
PASSAGE (3rd )
PARALLEL
WINDNG
SPEED FRAME
WARPING
T.F.O
SPEED FRAME
RING FRAME
WINDING
RING FRAME
WINDING
WINDING
PARALLEL
WINDING
PARALLEL
WINDING
T.F.O
T.F.O
WINDING
12S
TRUMAC
20S
TRUMAC
(m/c form)
SHELLROLL
New
11
New
11
Old
11
New
11
Old
9
(R.P.M)
LAP WEIGHT
LAP LENGTH
GRAMMO
20
44.4
450
20
56
400
20
61
330
20
66.6
300
13.2
90
300
METER
TOLERANCE
+ or 300gm
+ or
+ or
+ or
+ or 300gm
300gm
300gm
300gm
LIMIT
40S
50S
TRUMAC TRUMAC
SYNTHETIC
LR
2. CV% of strength
3 .C.S.P
4 .U% & imperfection ( thin, thick, neps) & yarn hairiness.
5. Classimat faults
16 class faults(A to D)
Objectionable fault(A4+B4+C3+C4+D3+D4)
6. T P I
7. Single yarn strength (gm)
8. R.K.M
9. CV% of single yarn strength
10. CV% of elongation
END USES
MAKE
INSTALLED
NO.OF
YEAR
MACHINE
1.BLOW ROOM
Trutzschler blow room line
TRUMAC
1992
TRUMAC
2000
Laxmi-Reiter
1978
TRUMAC
TRUMAC
TATHAMS
TATHAMS
PLATTS
Laxmi-Reiter
1998
1999
1960
1960
1946
1989
1
1
1
1
1
1
1997-98
1998
2000
1998
2000
8
4
4
1
1
1991-92
1995-96
1998-99
1994
1997
2002
4
4
6
2.CARDING
Trutzschler DK-740 card
Trutzschler DK-780 cards
Trutzschler DK-780 cards
Waste collection system
R.S.G grinder complete
TRUMAC
TRUMAC
TRUMAC
TRUMAC
PERFECT
3.COMBING
High speed comber E7/4(old)
High speed comber E7/4
High speed comber LK-250
Lap former E 2/4A
Lao former E2/4A
High speed comber LK-250
Laxmi-Reiter
Laxmi-Reiter
Laxmi-Reiter
Laxmi-Reiter
Laxmi-Reiter
Laxmi-Reiter
1
1
2
4.DRAWING
HS draw frame DO/6 model
HS draw frame padmatex
720
HS RSB 1 draw frame
HS RSB D 30 draw frame
Laxmi-Reiter
Padmatex
1989
1992
2
4
RIETER
RIETER
1998
1999
2
2
1992
5.SPEED FRAME
Speed frame TS-15 model
TEXTOOL
TEXTOOL
Laxmi-Reiter
Laxmi-Reiter
Laxmi-Reiter
1994
1989
1997-98
2000
1
4
2
1
1989
1992-93
4
50
6.RING FRAME
Ring frame MEI
Rig frame DJ-50N MODEL
MEI
TEXTOOL
7.WINDING/DOUBLING/T.F.O
Parallel winding m/c
Parallel winding m/c
Super doublers
T.F.O
KAMITSU
KAMITSU
NMM
VEEJAY
1964
1971
1978
1999-2000
1
1
1
3
LAKSHMI
SME 3
C&C
DRONSFIELDS
VIRAJKA
RSBDRG
SABAR E 7/4
DENIMACCOM
BER
H.SAGAR
1972
1960
1998
SLIVER LAP
1980
1992
1989
1
1
1
1
1
1
P.T.DRG
E 7/4 DEPARTMENT
LAYOUT OF SPINNING
LK
250
COM
BER
MIXING
ROOM
T 151 SPEED
FRAME
MEI RING
FRAME (12)
WMM SUPER
SPINNER RING
FRAME(6)
T.T.PJ 50N
RING FRAME
(34)
T.T. DJ50N
RING
FRAME(16)
WEAVING SECTION
SPINNING
OFFICE
DOUBLING
MACHINES
T
F
O
KAMITSU
WINDING
LR GS SPEED
FRAME
WINDING DEPARTMENT
L F 1400 SPEED
FRAME
L F 1400 S F
SME 2
7.ROLL SHOP
SECTION
SME - 1
L.K.250 COMBER
2. I. B YARN DYEING
When dyeing is done after the fiber has been spun into yarn, it is
described yarn dyeing. There are several methods of yarn dyeing. The purpose is to
have the dyestuff penetrate to the fibers in the core of the yarn; this is similar to the
penetration of the fibers in stock dyeing. Cloth made of dyed yarns is called yarn
dyed.
Yarn dyed fabrics are usually deeper and richer in color. Yarn dyed fabrics intended
for laundering must be quite colorfast, or bleeding could occur. The primary reason
for dyeing in the yarn form is to create interesting checks, stripes, and plaids with
different colored yarns in the weaving process. Chambrays, for example, are usually
woven with a colored warp and white filling. Other combinations of different colored
yarns are checked gingham, shepherds check, plaid, seersucker, and heather
mixtures.
Yarns can be dyed in the form of skeins or packages. Package-dyed yarns are more
suitable for woven fabrics, whereas skein-dyed yarns as more suitable for knits and
carpets where a fuller bulk is more desirable. However, package dyeing can be
performed on a much larger scale and with more uniform results. Consequently, it is
the more commonly-used method.
PACKAGE DYEING MACHINES
In these enclosed machines where dyeing under pressure can take
place, the dye-liquor is circulated through wound packages of yarn until the dye is
evenly exhausted. The yarn is wound onto perforated tubes or springs, or other types
of holders and the packages formed are then mounted onto a perforated rod (spindle)
or tube. In a commercial dyeing machine seven hundred packages are tightly packed
on a number of spindles which are arranged vertically on a hollow base (the
carrier).After loading, the carrier is dropped into a seating in the dyeing tank, through
which the dye-liquor is circulated. The dye-liquor is pumped through the packages in
either direction, according to need.
Carrier
Spindle
Yarn package
Main tank
These type of machines are also used, with the proper modification, to
dye loose fibers, tops and sliver, and warp yarns. In dyeing
warp yarns, a single perforated cylinder of the yarns fits into
the seating of the dye tank.
Packages that are too loosely wound may
collapse during the dyeing process. However, packages that are
too tightly wound may interface with the circulation of the dyeliquor. In any case, the packages must be wound as uniformly
as possible. Sudden pressures changes should be avoided to
prevent possible distortion of the packages. Therefore, newer
package dyeing machines have the capability of controlling
both flow and differential pressure. Many times the packages are Carriage
covered by a
protective bag which acts as a filter to prevent deposits of insoluble dye and other
impurities on the yarn.
Modern package dyeing machines are made to operate at low liquor
ratios. This is achieved by eliminating the external expansion tank.
MAIN STEPS INVOLVED IN YARN DYEING
Yarn dyeing is done in mainly two stages:1) DEVELOPMENT
o Customer gives sample with its all specifications like count, color etc. The sample
given is generally known as eskloon (handkerchief shape).
o It is then checked in lab. There they will check it in a particular design like how
many threads they need.
SPRING
o There is long cylindrical rod spindle in which spring wounded yarns are
been kept. These rods have small pores in it which allows movement of
dyeing chemicals in and out during dyeing process.
o In each spindle there can be maximum 11 yarn packages can be kept. But it
again depends on compression mechanism.
o These spindles are attached to a carrier. In one 400 kg carrier there can be
almost 61 spindles.
2.3 Dyeing
onto the processor and locked. as per the requirement one program is used.
:-Closing tank
In this chemicals are been put. And tube passes from this tank to main
tank through which chemicals pass through.
:-Main tank
Its the main tank in which carrier is been put.
First they put the carriage in the main tank in which 900 liters of water is
been filled.
Then chemical is put into chamber which later goes to closing tank.
After dyeing process almost double amount of water is present inside the package.
Then water comes down due to gravity.
There is another system known as automatic dosing system. In this
chemicals are put in different tank according to color we want program is been feeded
and the chemicals are taken automatically from these tanks and recipe is made.
In-out
Out-in
Porous
spindle
Dummy
spindle
In same vessel we can have different capacity. There are carriers known as
dummy carriers. These carriers consist of
dummy spindles. Dummy spindles are plain rod
which doesnt have holes in them so that when
dyeing process takes place water is not wasted
in and out through these spindles. So these rods
block the movement of water in and out through
the spindle.
Example;Suppose in a 100kg m/c we want only 80 kg yarns to be dyed. We have to put all the
spindles but we cant waste 20 kg of dyed yarn. And if we use the simple porous
spindles then most of the colored water will try to come out of that spindle because
the pressure applied is very less in those spindles. So, variation in color may arise. In
that situation we use dummy spindles which is covered with the steel for the equal
distribution of pressure of water in all the spindles. And it also helps out in shade
variation problem.
2.4 Hydro extractor
After dyeing yarn contain almost double amount of water. This is been
removed through a hydro extractor. It
consists of a l oading device in which
yarns are kept. Then this is put into a
chamber. Inside this chamber the load rotate in a speed of 1700rpm. Time taken is
10 minutes. Due to the centrifugal force water comes out.
8 yarn package in 1 floor
Total 2 floors present
2.5 R.F.Dryer (Radio Frequency Dryer)
After hydro extracting there is still some amount of water present inside the yarn.
Through radio frequency further drying is been done.I n this dryer machine electrodes
are present, which create an electromagnetic field.H+ and O- polar molecules are been
produced.This start vibrating and create
energy. Therefore H+ and O- get split. In
this temperature has to be controlled and
also height between these electrodes and
yarns have to be maintained.
Electrode
283.0mm
Conv.speed
5.7 m/h
Anode Ja
11.7 A
Grid Ig
2.4 A
After the drying process, the yarn packages are winded in a cone, like 2 yarn packages
are winded in one cone to check for the shade variation among different yarn
packages.
TYPES OF DEFECTS
1. Shade matching
If the shade is not matching this can be rectified by reprocessing it.
2. Levelness of package
From 2 cheese to 1 cone
Dyes generally used are vat, reactive dyes.
Colors used:-
IND BROWN BR
IND GREY 4B
INDOLIVE T
IND OLIVE GREEN B
NOV BROWN 2G
NOV PURPLE LR
NOV BROWN P
NOV OLIVE R
RED DYES
NOV YELLOW 5G
NOV JADE GREEN XBN
YELLOW 3RT
IND NAV BLUE VH
IND BLUE BC
IND BLACK AC
BLACK BLWUWU
CRIMSON HEXL
YELLOW HEXL
NAVY HEXL
BLUE HERD
BLUE HEXL
BLUE HEGL
RED HEXL
REACTIVE DYES
2. I. C. WEAVING
Cotton yarn can be made into cloth by knitting or weaving but weaving is by far the
most important and the only one used here. Weaving is carried out on a loom where
warp yarns run lengthways from back to front. Using a shuttle, weft yarn is threaded
widthwise. In early times, using a hand-loom, it was found to be much difficult to raise
alternate warp threads and lower the others. The weft could then be carried between
them in a straight line. The position of the warp threads was then reversed and the weft
sent back in the opposite direction.
handled efficiently during fabric manufacturing. The yarn package as it comes from
spinning must be repackaged to meet the particular needs and demands of fabric
manufacturing.
Various steps for preparatory process of yarn for weaving are as follows:
WINDING (WARP WINDING AND WEFT WINDING)
WARPING
SIZING
1.) WINDING
WEAVING
OBJECTIVE: To transfer yarn from spinner bobbin to another suitable package for
warping machine.
REQUIREMENTS:
The package size, shape and build must be suitable for particular end use.
The package size should be controlled to meet the particular economic requirement.
MACHINERY:
obtained from spinning. There is a special feature called auto-doffing in all of these.
In this mechanism, after the yarn package finishes, another package automatically drops
and the winding process continues.
Doffing capacity = 60 doffs per hour.
Weight of the yarn = yarn length/ (1694* yarn count)
mechanics
No. of machines = 2
No. of spindles in each machine=60
b.) SCHLAFHORST AUTOCONER 238 : Single( individual) spindle machine
Automatic splicing.
Uniform tension
c.)
2. WARPING
OBJECTIVE: To arrange a convenient number of warp yarns that can be collected in a
sheet form and wound on to a warpers beam.
SECTIONAL
WARPING
(PATTERN
inch. If the weaving is set at 12 e.p.i, and the sectional warp beam sections are 2", 24
bobbins of warp are needed in the spool rack (2" x 12 e.p.i. = 24 warp ends, hence 24
bobbins per 2" section).
ii.
iv.
viii.
The beam is turned, watching carefully to see that the section fills evenly. If the warp
piles up unevenly, position of the tension box is
adjusted. Each revolution of the beam is counted as
first section is filled. All the other sections should be
filled with the same number of turns to avoid tension
problems in the warp.
ix. When the section is full, a piece of masking tape is placed across the warp ends to keep
them in order. The tape takes the place of a cross. The warp is then cut one inch beyond
the tape. The tape is pinned into the filled section to secure it.
x.
The tension box or paddle is moved to the other outside section and filled.
xi. When all the sections are full, pins are removed from each section and warp is pulled
over the back beam toward the shafts. A long stick is laid across the width of the loom
and tied to the sides of the loom to secure. The warp sections are taped to this stick.
xii.
Thread the loom is threaded as for warping back to front (heddles are threaded;
the reed is slayed and tied onto the front apron rod).
MACHINERY:
The sectional warping machine consists of a drum which can slightly shift horizontally
as the sections of yarn are being rotated on it. Length of the drum is marked on it. The
warp yarns comes from a predefined arrangement of cones as per the color and design
of the fabric. Length and width of each section of yarn is calculated and each section is
warped in a slanting manner on the drum to avoid intermingling of sections. A lace is
introduced and tied at the end hooks of the drum after each section of yarns is separated
by a rod. After all the sections are winded on the drum, this beam is than winded on to a
beam by the help of a roller. This beam is called the warp beam.
The sectional warping machines are fully computerized.
Creel capacity = 672
Hence, no. of sections = 672/ (no. of ends per section)
Separate warping & beaming structure ensures smooth vibration free operation at high
speed as well as at higher winding tensions. This division into units provides greater
processing flexibility such as.
i.
Allowing the machine to be operated with single or multiple creel for higher
productivity in respect to capital investment.
ii.
Easy to reach the warping reel from every position during the different working
phases.
iii.
iv.
To ensure gentle but extremely effective stopping of the machine, disc brakes are
provided on both sides of the drum, New Caliper braking device having sideways
installation facilitate easy servicing and settings of brake liners.
Most important and high technological feature only offered by 'Prashant Gamatex' to
produce perfect weavers beam to get optimum efficiency for automatic looms.
Proportional control of the brakes in our high tech Hydraulic power pack with the help
of advance electronics, monitors constant tension of the yarn sheet during beaming.
Intelligent Operational Panel (I.O.P.) having large size Digital display or graphic
display is provided for indicating total length, partial length, No. of section, section
width, rotation as well as all the messages and fault finding indications in case of
machine stoppage.
Broken and lost end during warping can be memorized. Machine stops automatically
before lost end position during beaming to trace and tie the lost end to complete warp.
This increases the overall efficiency of high speed looms. All lost end data can be
monitored on screen at a time and also can take printout of the same.
The design is inbuilt to memorize atleast 100 sets of different programs, which can be
easily called back and start the machine without any further delay
3. SIZING
OBJECTIVES:
To improve strength and abrasion resistance of the warp yarns by causing the
fibers to adhere together.
To make smooth and to lubricate the warp yarns so that there is minimum friction
where they rub together various parts in the weaving process.
In the weaving process, the warp yarns are subjected to rubbing and chafing against
various metallic parts of the looms as they are threaded through backrest, drop wires,
harness and reed. They constantly are rubbed together during shedding.
The warp yarns are subjected to tension constantly as well as intermittently during letoff, take-up, shedding and beat up.
These two reasons lead to increase the end breakage level during weaving, which
should be minimized.
SIZING INGREDIENTS:
Adhesives: Modified starch (texoplast), fabric glue, thin volume starch, Potato starch,
starch from corn, wheat, rice, etc., Carboxyl methyl cellulose (CMC), Poly-vinyl
alcohol (PVA), Polyester resin (acts as binder).
Lubricants:
Mineral waxes, oils, vegetable waxes and oils, animal fats
Additives:
Salicylic acid, zinc chloride, phenol, emulsifier, softeners, Polyethylene glycol
CHEMICAL 16Te
Texoplast
PVA
Falixlose
Seycofilm
M. Tallow
Pep 1000
LV 40
Water
40
6
25
4
5
100
1
15
1= 37.75 litres
40COL 40
50
6
25
6
5
100
___
14.5
GREY
50
10
25
6
5
100
___
14.5
50
70
10
___
12
5
100
___
14
60
60
10
___
15
5
100
___
14
70
50
15
___
15
5
100
___
14
20
20
___
60
4
5
100
___
14
16OE
Sample
70
10
20
6
4
100
___
17
sizing
___
8
___
3
3
___
___
100
MACHINERY:
1) SUCKER MULLER HACOBA with PLC device( programmable logic control)
No. of machines = 1
OPERATOR INTERFACE
PLC BASED SERVO DRIVE CONTROLLED MULTI-CYLINDER SIZING MACHINE ( JUPITOR).
pneumatically to allow knots or the feed aid to be pulled through when the warp is
being fed in.
It also moves the rollers back together.
Guide roller: serves the pupose of length measurement in cases where sizing continues
filament yarn.
Contactless switch: Attached to a roller bearing. Pulses are transmitted to a second
measuring instrument (meter counter or stretch measuring device) located elsewhere.
2) SQUEEZING ROLLERS
MATERIAL- Rubber.
These rollers should be brushed down with hot water containing a desizing agent before
long periods out of use to wash out all traces of size from the pores.
The agent reaction time must be kept short to rule out solubilization of the roller
surface. Immediately afterwards, the cleaning agent is neutralized and removed with
water.
When regrinding one of the bottom squeeze rollers on a sizing machine with two
squeezers(SD-C), the roller with the largest external diameter must be installed in the
last squeezer.
Difference between two sqeezers in the first and second roller should not exceed
0.2 mm.
The rollers should be stored at 20 degree centigrade in a dark room and should be
securely,
i) Packing cord coated with Teflon on the backing will burn and sealing effect can be
lost.
ii) Can lead to damage of bearings.
Automatic squeezing roller control ( PLC) : The pneumatic load on the squeezing
roller is increased and decreased according to the operating statuses of the machine.
Squeezing pressure is usually set lower for standstill and creep speed than for normal
speed.
The squeezing pressure control facility allows the squeezing roller pressure to be
adjusted depending on warp speed.
The programmable logic control device helps in checking the amount of size imparted
to a single yarn. It measures the degree of viscosity of each individual yarn and sends a
signal to the squeeze roller. If the amount of size imparted is more, the pressure of
squeeze roller has to be increased and vice-a-versa.
FQ2
V2
Squeezing
FQ1
Pressure
( KN)FQ2
V2
FQ1
Speed (m /min)
REFRACTOMETER
Steam pressure:
Operating pressure = 0.5 to 3.5 bar
Steam quantity:
SE-C = 50 kg/h
SD-C = 80 kg/h
Air pressure :
Maximum Operating pressure = 10 bar
MEASURING CUP
iv) if liquid media (oils) are used, it is fed via a transparent bottle with a capacity of 10
liters.
Sizing machine layout plan:
PREPATORY PROCESS FOR DRAWING-IN: The open space between each wire of the
hook is called dent. A warp end is passed through a dent with the help of the reed hook,
after it passes through the heald. This process is called denting.
Automatic drawing-in machines multiply the
productivity of each drawing-in operation 5to
enabling
the
required
level
of
processing flexibility.
MACHINERY:
1) STAUBLI DELTA 200 : The DELTA 200 is a high-performance drawing-in
installation. It is used wherever high production performance, a wide field of applications,
and maximum flexibility are required. The DELTA 200 draws-in warp yarns directly
from the warp beam with 1 or 2 sheets, and optionally up to 4 sheets.
2) STAUBLI DELTA 110 : These drawing-in installations are designed for weaving mills
with medium drawing-in requirements. The DELTA 110 also handles drop wires and is a
universal installation. Furthermore, a module is available that is specially designed for
drawing-in course yarns. Drawing-in takes place directly from the warp beam with 1
warp sheet, or optionally with 2 warp sheets.
Main characteristics:
DELTA
110
200
100/140*
2-5
2.3/ 4.0/ 6.0
1 (2*)
500
20
200
4-8
2.2/ 2.8/ 4.0
2 (4*)
500
28
16
____
____
Hook
3-250
20
8
2
Rapier
3-330
Base Frame
Function:
i) Static auxiliary function
ii) Supporting unit for the machine infrastructure
iii) Holds electrics and pneumatics.
2) Yarn Drawn in Module:
Function:
Serves to guide the separated warp ends through the heald, drop wire and reed.
Lifting Device
Thread Frame
Yarn Separation
Yarn Supply
Function:
i) Handling the warp beam and thread sheet
ii) Separating and preparing the warp end for drawn- in.
4) Heald Module:
Part modules:
Heald Magazine
Heald Separation
Heald Distribution
Function:
i) Handling the healds from the magazine stack
ii) Distribution between the shafts
5) Reed Module:
Part module: Reed Transport
Function: Reed Handling
6) Drop Wire Module:
Part modules:
Function:
i) Magazing the drop wires.
ii) Distributing the drawn-in drop wires between the shafts.
7) Control Module
Part modules:
Function Keyboard
Control Keyboard
Function: Controls and co-ordinates the module computers assigned to the main
module.
8) Master System Module
Part modules:
Keyboard
Monitor
Master computer
Printer
Function:
i) Accepts the drawn-in data from the operator
ii) Transmits it to the control computer.
iii) Manages the operating data.
iv) Visualizes the process sequence.
SEQUENCE OF FUNCTIONS:
Band gripper starts the drawing-in sequence before all modules are ready for
drawing-in.
Yarn supply module reports at yarn test. If it is not ready, band gripper is stopped
before entering yarn take over. If ready, the gripper continues its motion.
After yarn take over, band gripper which grips the yarn withdraws.
Band gripper withdraws past the drop wire and heald positions.
Drop wire and heald distribution systems move on.
Reed transport ensures the reed position.
Yarn ejectors are actuated in position e and f (in the diagram).
One drawn-in cycle is over.
5. WEAVING
On the conventional loom, the warp beam is mounted at the back and the warp yarns are
conveyed to a cylinder called the cloth roll, which is at the front of the loom and on which
the fabric is rolled as it is constructed. Supported on the frame between these two
cylinders( warp beam and cloth beam), the warp yarns are ready to be interlaced by the
filling yarns that run in the width of the cloth, thus producing the woven fabric.
Four fundamental operations of weaving in any loom are as follows:
Beating up( battening) : pushing filling yarns firmly in place by means of the reed.
Taking up and letting of : winding the finished fabric on the cloth beam and
releasing more of the warp from the warp beam.
DOBBY
JACQUARD
No. of looms = 2
RAPIER
AIR-JET
RAPIER LOOMS: these have a double rapier device that is, one on each side of the
loom. one rapier feeds the filling yarn halfway through the shed of warp yarns to the
arm on the other side, which reaches in and takes it across the rest of the way.
These rapier looms operate at speeds ranging from about 200 to 260 ppm at about the
noise level of missile looms. They can produce a wide variety of fabrics ranging from
muslin to drapery and upholstery materials.
AIRJET LOOMS: these looms use a jet of air to propel the filling yarn through the
shed at rates of up to 600 ppm. Air jet looms require uniform filling yarns. They are
more suitable for use with heavier than lighter yarns because the lighter weight yarns
are more difficult to control through the shed. Yet, if the yarn is too heavy, the airjet
may not be able to carry the filling across the loom. Within these restraints, the air-jet
loom is effective and can produce a wide variety of fabrics. These looms operate at a
lower noise level than the shuttle, missile, or rapier looms.
JACQUARD LOOMS: If the number of harnesses are more than 24, jacquard looms
are used. Any intricate design or motive can be developed using these looms. 10,000
ends can be individually controlled in this loom
MACHINERY: Technical details
I ) RAPIER LOOM: PICANOL GTX PLUS
SELVEDGE BREAKAGE
IMPULSE
WARP BREAKAGE
START/STOP
FILLING BREAKAGE
VCOMP
RESERVE
Control clutch:
Control of the clutch and brake is obtained by a fixed programmed electric control.
This means that the current in the obtained clutch and brake coil can be changed by
the micro-processor, but cant be adjusted through keyboard.
Voltage on the clutch and brake coil = 340 V dc
Resistance = 10 to 14 ohms.
Clearance between clutch disc and rotor = 0.3 to 0.9 mm.
Clearance between clutch disc and brake coil = 0 to 0.05 mm
Starting cycle (weaving):
It consists of three phases as follows:
A current which is about 5 times more important than the nominal current is first
sent, in order to obtain a short regular movement of the clutch disc.
An intervening over excitation level, which is about equal to 3 times the nominal
current, until the clutch disc stops slipping.
Weave settings for a symmetrical set-up of the warp beam with regard to the
machine:
All settings can be carried out without warp beam and with the grippers in the
machine.
The reed :
i)
ii)
Weave settings for an asymmetric set-up of the warp beam with regard to the
machine:
Full set up is same as symmetrical except for that the left hand slide, temple profile,
temple, filling cutter and tucking-in device are not moved.
Filling and waste cutters:
There are two blades- fixed and movable both of which should be lubricated daily.
Fix blade is 1mm below the filling yarn.
Cutters are driven by cam and operate on every pick.
Setting of the filling cutter: both the blades are moved till the fix blade is
Vertical position: tip of the fix blade is 2mm below the fabric.
iv)
Filling presentation:
There are two types of filling presentations available:
Independent filling presenter type W:
i)
a) Mechanical
b) Synchronization
REASON
Power supply is wrong/ wire is
SHOOTING
Replace or reconnect the wire/
doesnt work
Irregular needle
synchronization signal
Moving arm and motor shaft are
movement
Position of needle
inversed
wrong way
straight way
v) Mounting settings:
a) Replacing the motor of a module
b) Replacing the needle
c) Adjustment of needle on motor shaft
The shed:
ii) Asymmetrical
Adjusting the position of the warp beam flanges with regard to the warp beam barrel.
The backrest:
i) Set up of the back rest: Equipped with 2 rolls- tension roll and rotating roll.
ii) Height and depth of the back rest to be adjusted:
For height, the essential conditions are grain of the fabric, warp breakages. There is
higher position for plain weave/heavy cloth and lower position for silk/ filament yarn.
Depth depends on elasticity of warp yarns. For light fabrics, whip roller should be as
far as possible from heald frame and for heavy weights, it should be near to heald
frame.
Warp detector :
Height and inclination of warp detector should be so that :
i)
ii)
Take up motion
Take-up housing
ii)
iii)
stability.
ii) TU Roll :
a) Leads the woven fabric smoothly away from the cloth roll. Pressing force of two
pressure rollers on both sides is the same.
b) Depending on the type of fabric, the pressure imparted by pressure roller keeps
changing.
iii) Cloth Roll and Friction Clutch:
a) Woven fabric smoothly and evenly wound onto the cloth roll.
b) Friction clutch can be adjusted to suit the fabric construction, ensuring even
wounding.
Oil level in the take-up housing is sufficient to lubricate the gears inside.
ii)
Gears and chain wheels of the take-up roll should be lubricated. Same
tension on both sides should be maintained.
iii)
Working Principle:
Leno yarns are both drawn in through the diagonal slots of the plastic sliding pieces.
Both plastic pieces can move separately. The front piece has a magnet.
For upward motion of pieces, front piece remains at bottom with regard to back
piece. For downward motion of pieces, front piece remains at top with regard to
back piece.
This can be divided into four phases:
i) Phase-I: Both leno yarns are positioned in the upper shed. Both needle yarns are
positioned in the bottom shed. One pick is inserted.
ii) Phase-II : Needles move upwards and leno yarns move downwards. At the
movement of harness crossing, leno yarns cross between needle yarns.
iii) Phase-III: Needle yarns are positioned completely upwards (in the upper shed )
Leno yarns are positioned completely downwards( in the bottom shed)
One pick is inserted.
iv) Phase-IV: Needles move downwards and leno yarns move upwards. During
harness crossing, leno yarns are again crossing between needle yarns. During
weaving, one leno yarn is straightened so that only one leno yarn is visible in the
fabric.
II) LENO HEDDLE OF KLOCKER
Drop heald yarn is drawn-in through the eye of the drop heald between the two
listings.
Leno yarn is drawn-in between the two listings in same direction of drop heald yarn.
For easier drawing-in, machine is put in position with open shed. In case of double
leno mechanism, a distance of 15mm in the reed between the two groups of leno
yarns is maintained.
i) Phase I: At the moment of crossing, drop heddle yarn is positioned above leno
yarn.
ii) Phase II : One listing is pulled downwards, drop heddle and other listing is pulled
upwards. Yarns obtain tension and are positioned under yarn guide which is lower
than bottom shed. So the leno yarn between listing and drop heddle will slide
downwards. Drop heald yarn is pushed upwards by drop heddle.
iii) Phase III: now, direction of both the listings is interchanged. Leno yarn is
positioned under drop heald yarn.( same as phase I)
iv) Phase IV : leno yarn slides downward between drop heddle and second listing.
Needle yarn is positioned in front of the drop heald yarn.( same as phase-II)
III) WEAVE SETTINGS
The shed height: For some fabrics, height of leno harnesses is set according
to warp yarns.
Tucking-in Device
After the inserted pick has been beaten up by the reed and
when the selvedge ends hold the weft, weft is taken along the length of the
selvedge by gripper. Weft is then cut between the selvedge gripper and the
selvedge ends at 11mm from the first warp end by cutter.
Construction:
Number of weft ends is doubled on the selvedge edge stroke. No problems occur
with fabrics having less picks/inch than ends/inch.
With square clothes or clothes having higher weft density, higher tensions are
caused in the selvedge because of large shrink.
Hence, risk of warp breakages in the selvedges is greater during weaving and
difficulty may occur in the finishing of the cloth coz of construction of selvedge.
Solution:
i) Number of warp ends in selvedge zone should be reduced.
ii) The weave in selvedge zone should be changed
iii) Thinner warp yarns should be used in selvedge
A
Dense Warp
C
Weft Density
predominant
Square fabric
Reduce warp
density by 30%
Reduce warp
density by 15%
Change
selvedge
weave
Use fine
warp ends
When the machine is equipped with a tucking in device, it is advisable to put extra
heald wires between the selvedges and ground fabric, so that the drawing-in can be
changed between the selvedges and the ground of the cloth.
Number of heald wires depends on length of the tucked ends. It selvedge is perfect,
extra heald wires should be cut out.
In case of machines with tucking in device, reed is 70 mm longer than the drawingin of the fabric. The reed is also set at a distance of 1mm from the filling guide.
The first warp yarn is drawn-in at 30mm from the first left hand reed dent.
At the right hand side, the right hand waste yarn is positioned at 35-40 mm from the
last warp yarn.
Leveling the machine: Auxiliary tools for leveling the machine are :
i.
ii.
iii.
iv.
4-pick insertion
Replacing injectors
Changing assignment
Weaving setting
The fixed main nozzle should be positioned such that the line leading from the
prewinder drums centre to the movable main nozzle is as straight as possible.
The movable main nozzle
modules
Injector
Air inlet
Nozzle extension
The filling yarn count dictates which injector and main nozzle body will be used.
The fixed and movable main nozzle cannot be exchanged with each other.
Injectors are available in different types like conical and cylindrical. The internal
operations uniquely identify the different injectors.
Replacing parts:
The following actions can be undertaken without dismantling the movable main
nozzle from the machine:-
Setting the pressure: The pressure can be set on the front left side of the
machine. The pressure of the main nozzle determines the speed of the filling
yarn.
The filling clamp: there is a filling clamp per channel at the main nozzle inlet. It
is open during filling insertion and clamps the filling if insertion doesnt take
place.
The directional nozzle: To lead the filling in a right direction during the
insertion start.
Relay nozzles
Arranged over the entire length of the reed, these assist the
movable main nozzle in blowing the pick through the reed guiding channel.
Relay nozzles are fitted to the right of the last warp ends to direct the pick
towards the suction mouth
The more the relay nozzle is turned towards the reed, the
The higher the pressure, the lower the yarn flight in the
insertion channels.
The pneumatic control
Compressed air
Pressure regulators
The pressure for the relay nozzles must be set as low as possible with no weaving
faults occurring and with a minimum number of machine stops.
i) MAIN VALVE REGULATOR: Regulates pressure on buffer tank(s) for main
nozzle. Pressure of main nozzle determines the speed of filling yarns.
ii) AUXILIARY PRESSURE REGULATOR: Regulates the pressure for the
auxiliary functions: a) pistons of pick finder
b) Pre-winder, threading and PFT threading
c) Chimney stretching nozzle
d) Extraction nozzle
e) tucking-in device
f) Clamp on main nozzle
g) 8 color switching valve
This is set for fixed value 6 bar.
Auxiliary Pressure = Supply pressure 1 bar
iii) LEFT RELAY NOZZLE REGULATOR: Regulates the pressure on the left
hand relay nozzle buffer tank.
iv) RIGHT RELAY NOZZLE REGULATOR: Regulates pressure on the RH relay
nozzle buffer tank.
iv)
i)
Air distribution :
ii)
iii)
iv)
v)
vi)
vii)
Parking brake
ix)
Temple Nozzle
i) Used for a filling detector in front of the reed or next to the reed.
ii) To prevent yarn ends RH side from returning in the fabric, temple nozzle
mounted on temple support.
Chimney stretching nozzle
It ensures that the filling yarn remains stretched during the closing of the shed.
Extraction nozzle blows the filling waste out of the chimney stretching nozzle after the
sley beat-up.
Stretching relay nozzles
Waste guide is used to keep long filling waste away from the fabric. Extraction nozzle
blows the filling waste behind the waste guide. Filling detector is mounted nest to last
warp end.
Stretching nozzle is mounted next to filling detector. On machines equipped with a
waste guide, the stretching relay nozzle is positioned behind the waste guide.
Filling detectors (in front of reed and next to reed)
Functions:
The Dobby
The outside cam motion
Harness frames
The optimum height setting depends on a number of factors like article type, weave,
and machine speed(rpm).
in double threads and redirected warp threads lead to an increased efficiency of the
weaving machine.
FUNCTION DESCRIPTION
Memory capacity = 8 MB. Therefore, data will not miss when in de-energized
state, for storing designs transmitted from floppy disc, to edit and weave the
complicated JOB, which is formed by various kinds of patterns.
Information in the controller and loom can be preserved.
Controller has configuration function, if used on special looms. Parameters like
warp program, weft program can be set.
It has eight LEDs on the panel to display the state of supply, controller and loom.
System will automatically start to self test when energized or operated and provide
looms test program for test weave when djusting the loom. .
Many anti-interference ways to control power interference, radiation interference
and conduction interference.
Each operation has detailed instruction, it is not necessary for the customer to
remember too much of the procedure.
CONTROLLER FASIA: This includes:
LCD modular
8 LEDs
20 buttons
TECHNICAL DATA:
Temperature = -5 to 40 degree Centigrade
Relative humidity = 0% to 95% non condensation
Power = 110 V +- 15% , 45 60 Hz
Power consumption = 60 watts
COMMANDS:
Running state: LCD model displays :i) Job number
ii) Pattern name
iii) Weaved cycles
iv) Remaining cycles
v) Weave pattern cycles
Pattern program
Application program
viii)Pattern application
program :
a) Pattern directory
b) Memory usage
c) Pattern conversion
d) Return
TOP PORTION OF JACQUARD
(ATTACHMENT OF HARNESSES)
Controller configuration
Test program
Exit
2. I. d GREY FOLDING
Grey Fabric Inspection occurs in fabric inspection for the weaving/ spinning defects.
The removable defects are removed and noted down, and irremovable defects
location is noted down and the frequency is noted. There is a roller attatched counter
which counts the number of metres inspected and helps in location the position of the
defect.
Fabric inspection
2. I.e.CORDUROY
Counter
Plaiting Machine
Corduroy is a fabric comprised of twisted fibers that when woven lay parallel
(similar to twill) to one another to form the cloth's distinct pattern, a "cord." Modern
corduroy is most commonly composed of tufted cords, sometimes exhibiting a
channel (bare to the base fabric) between the tufts.
As a fabric, corduroy is considered a durable cloth. Socially, the clothes made from
corduroy are considered casual, and are usually favored in colder climates during
seasonal periods. Corduroy is most commonly found in the construction of trousers.
The material is also used in the construction of (sport) jackets and shirts. The width of
the cord is commonly referred to as "wale"; the size of the wale. The width of the
wale makes some uses more common than others. Wide wale is more commonly
found on trousers; medium, narrow and fine wale fabrics are usually found in
garments used above the waist.
The Basic weave of the corduroy fabric consists of a chain structure in the back of the
cloth and an uncut pile formation in the front.The pile are cut using a circular
blade(cutter/knife) and a needle which guides the blde throough the uncut pile loop.
Yarn dyed corduroy is manufactured as both bottom (thick) and shirtings (thin).
The density of the cutting rings is 21-28 rings/blades per inch. The cut fabric is
collected in plaited batches.
Two suction tubes are present which continuously sucks in the particles released
while cutting.
Pressing and brushing Machine
Water sprayed onto the fabric surface once entering the machine. 8 belts move
clockwise and anti clockwise.
The process flow is:
Uncut Grey|
|
Grey uncut brushed (dry conditioned)
Grey Cutting (on Cutting Machine)
Inspection (Any uncut portion is again cut by razor, manually)
Brush at grey cut(Wet conditioning)
Bleaching
Dyeing
Finishing
Corduroy (finish folding)
The make of the machines are Franz Muller(Germany)(for cutting , pressing)2 nos
-
Amritsar
Brushing Machine
To and fro eccentric motion removes roughness further.18 circular rollers cum
brushers roll on the cut grey corduroy for brushing along the grain line.
12 steam cylinders are used for drying after steaming in the first chamber, for
improved softness. At a temperature of 50 to 60 digree Celsius.
To improve the wettability for dyeing(for uniform ness and depth of color)
Grey goods must be cleaned before they can be finished. They may contain warp
sizing, oils, other additives, dirt and soil. Complete removal is necessary in order to
finish, dye, and print goods effectively. The method of cleaning depends upon the
fiber in the fabric, the kind of impurities present, and the construction of the fabric.
SINGEING (OR GASSING) AND DESIZING
If a fabric is to have a smooth finish, singeing
and desizing are one of the first essential
preparatory processes. Singing burns off lint and
threads as well as all fuzz and fibers ends,
leaving an even surface before the fabric passes
through other finishing processes. Especially for
achieving the uniform color in dyeing singeing is necessary because protruding fibers
causes dullness.
Machine used:
OSTHOFF SENGE (GERMANY)
Goller singing with impregnation unit type WA.
Speed of the machine: 79m/min
Squeeze pressure: 0.8 bar
Compensator pressure: 2.0 bar
Number of machine: 1
Meter counter production: 46m
Process happening:
First of all when the fabric from pleating department comes for finishing it is singed
and desized in this machine. Singing is accomplished by passing grey goods rapidly
over gas flames, usually two burners to a side, at a speed of 100 to 250 yards per
minute. Fabric can be singed both face and back side of the fabric, after that the fabric
is washed with water to reduce the temperature, then it is passed through a chemical
solution to remove the starch and other chemicals while sizing, called Desizing. The
fabric collected at the end of the machine in a beam is hot and wet. A single thread
chain stitch machine is used to stitch two different fabrics. So the process is
continuous, only its setting has to be changed for different fabrics.
Burner:
The intensity of the flame depends on the type of fabric. It varies from 8mbr-12mbr.
According to roller setting and fabric type, the fabric can be singed in two ways:
One side for two times. For fabrics like corduroy the face side is singed two times.
Two sides for 1 time
Burner pressure: 10.0 mbar r more.
Flame intensity: 10mbar or more.
There is a sensor in the machine which detects the temperature of the fabric. If the
fabric is burned then it sense it and the temperature is then controlled in the burner.
Suction unit:
In this unit the flames of the burned particles which are left on the fabric are
extinguished.
Brushing unit:
After the fabric is singed it is passed through brushing unit where the burned particles
are brushed out.
Desizing:
The purpose of a desizing process is to remove sizes that have been attached to warp
yarns during a weaving process. Prior to the desizing process, therefore, the size
analysis should be performed in order to set desizing conditions suitable for the sizes.
After the cotton cloth leaves the burners, it is pulled through a solution of an enzyme,
squeezed out in a heavy mangle, and usually allowed to lie for several hours to allow
the enzyme to digest the starch with which the warp yarns were sized. There is a
temperature indicator on the top which indicates the temperature.
Secondary impurities
Starch
PVA
Acrylic size
Wax
After-wax
Percentage
2-3%
0.3%
0.3-0.4%
0.01-0.03%
percentage
4-6%
3-5%
0.5-1%
0.2-0.5%
0.5.%
Enzymes: the pH range of the enzymes has to be maintained while desizing. There
may be difference in the enzymes used. It degrades the cellulose in fabric surface
which in turn affect the color of the fabric, the fabric becomes more faded. But the
softness of the fabric is increased by using enzymes in the chemical.
Sequestering agent: it removes the metal particles from the surface of the fabric.
Wetting agent
Stabilizer
Hydrogen peroxide
Acetic acid
Both direct and indirect heating is given to the fabric.
After desizing the fabric is collected in the beam where the beam is kept rotating for
6-8 hours. The rotation time is given for the enzymes to react with the fabric surface
and sizing particles and remove it.
Practically all cotton fabrics, except those that are to be napped, are singed.
Singing is basically of three types:
Roller singeing
Plate singeing
Gas singeing
Singeing may also be done at the yarn stage, especially when the yarns are to be used
for fine quality cotton goods. Usually such yarns are fully mercerized, and singeing in
this case is referred to as gassing. Mercerized gassed yarns are sold in the trade as
lisle.
WASHING RANGE MACHINE:
After rotation for 8 hours, the fabric is washed
with hot water usually at 95`C.
Turbo rollers are used in this machine for
efficiency in washing which creates turbulence
while washing through rotating rollers. Some of
the rollers used for washing have motors.
One vacuum suction is present in the machine which removes the singing particles
from the fabric surface after reaction from enzymes for 8 hrs.
No. of machine: 1
To remove the natural coloring matters and make the fabric in perfect white
with minimum damage to fibers and within the shortest possible time.
This process is necessary if discoloration or stains have occurred during the previous
manufacturing processes. All bleaching processes reduce the strength of the fiber.
Bleaching is carried out near or above boiling temperature under pressure for one
hour or more. After bleaching, the fabric is thoroughly rinsed with slight amount of
basic solution to avoid formulation of insoluble silicates.
Chemical bleaching is usually accomplished by oxidation, destroying color by the
application of oxygen, or by reduction, removing color by hydrogenation. Cotton and
other cellulosic fibers are usually treated with heated alkaline hydrogen peroxide;
wool and other animal fibers are subjected to such acidic reducing agents as gaseous
sulfur dioxide or to such mildly alkaline oxidizing agents as hydrogen peroxide.
Synthetic fibers, when they require bleaching, may be treated with either oxidizing or
reducing agents, depending upon their chemical composition. Cottons are frequently
scoured and bleached by a continuous system.
The drying process depends on further processes. The fabric is not dried if it is going
for mercerization; it is dried only if it is going for finishing.
MERCERIZATION:
The treatment of cotton fabrics or garments with a cold concentrated solution of
sodium hydroxide for a minute or less is called mercerization. It is a value added
process.
After this process the cotton fibers will swell, untwist and their beam shaped cross
section will change into round form giving smoothness to the fabric.
Tension is applied to the fabrics in the machine in the vertical direction with a tension
cylinder, and in the horizontal direction with a clip tenter. The processing time by the
cylinder and the tenter in total is 30 to 60 seconds. To prevent the fabrics from
shrinking after going through the tenter, the NaOH concentration in the fabrics needs
to be decreased sufficiently when the fabrics leave the tenter.
Also, since the piling on thick fabrics in a wet state leaves creases on the fabrics, the
thick fabrics need to be dried promptly.
Change in a cross-section of a cotton fiber during a mercerization treatment.
1-5
6
7
Objectives:
Stable dimention
Machine type:
Mercerizing range type optima
No. of machine: 1
Speed of the machine: 40 m/min-50 m/min
Production per hour: 2400 m
No. of workers: 3
The machine runs depending on the order
Mercerizing zone:
Fabric is padded with about 20-25% caustic soda (NaOH solution) containing a
wetting agent. The temperature of the mercerizing zone is usually maintained at 65`C.
Two types of mercerization are done:
Wet on wet: Where wet fabric is used. It is not dried.
Hot mercerization: Where dried fabric is used for the process.
Stabilizing zone:
In this section the width of the fabric is stabilized, NaOH stabilizes the fabric
structure. NaOH is washed here because less GLP (gram per liter) NaOH is used for
washing.
Washing zone:
There are four chambers for washing or four washers. In the last chamber Acetic acid
is dozed to neutralize the fabric before sending it to other departments. The fabric
should be either neural or acidic but not alkaline.
pH is controlled at 4.5
Water flow in each chamber: 1.01 /kg
Rubber is used in the rollers. If the rubber is damaged then it will affect the fabric and
will leave stains. Metal bearings are used in the machine. There is no sensor in the
machine to detect the fabric damage.
DYEING:
Main objective in the dyeing of textile materials are:
Conventional process:
The majority of the textile fibers are dyed by conventional batch method of dyeing
referred to as exhaust dyeing. In a typical exhaust dyeing a concentrated solution or
dispersion of the dye(s) in water is made first. Then the dye-bath is prepared by
diluting the concentrated dye solution with proper amount of water. Certain
chemicals, used as dyeing assistance, are usually added to the dye-bath before and/or
during the dyeing to assist in the proper absorption of the dyes by the fibers.
Throughout the dyeing process, the dye solution is circulated through the substrate
(fabric) and/or the substrate is moved within the dye-bath. The temperature is
gradually raised usually to temperatures close to boiling point of water, where it is
kept for 30-60 minutes or more, according to need. While dyeing, the dye is taken up
slowly (exhaustion of the dye-bath) by the fibers. Usually almost all of the dye is
consumed, and the dye-bath is said to be exhausted.
PAD STEAM MACHINE:
Padding dyes the fabric as it is held at full width. The fabric is passed through a
trough containing dye and then between two heavy rollers which force the dye into
the cloth and squeeze out the excess. It is generally done on a continuous dye range
which can accommodate a large amount of fabric. The material is run in one operation
through a pad, into a heat or steam chamber to set the dye, then successively into a
washer, a rinser, and a dryer.
Machine type: Goller (Germany)
Number of machine: 2
One machine is for reactive dyed machine and caustic size where there is no steamer.
And one machine has steamer which is for wet dyed fabric and caustic size.
After wet dyeing the fabric is feed to this machine. First of all the fabric from the
beam is passed through hydro caustic where the hydro caustic is put in a tank. Hydro
caustic is used to fix the color on the fabric and also for leveling.
Biancalani PRATO ITALI: used for polishing the fabric.
Quantity of hydro caustic: 35 gpl (grams per liter)
Streamer:
After that the fabric goes to the steamer which is located at a higher level where direct
heating is given to the fabric. Only steam is present in the streamer. The temperature
of the steamer is usually 100`C. The fabric stays in the steamer for a minute.
On the sides of steamers there are four tanks having hydro caustic after A-Ring.
The steamer is used only if the fabric is dyed from wet dyes, for a reactive dyed fabric
the steamer is switched off because reactive dyed fabrics are kept in rotation for 8
hours and no rotation is required for wet dyed fabrics.
Water lock:
From the steamer which is located on the top of the machine the fabric comes down to
water lock where the fabric is cooled. The temperature of the fabric has to be reduced
so it is washed with water and other chemicals.
Number of washers: 7
Speed: 60 m/min
washer
1
Set temperature(in C )
40
Real temperature( in C)
56
2
3
4
5
6
7
60
60
95
95
70
60
71
71
90
92
83
86
Third washer has peroxide for wet dyed fabric and if the fabric is dyed through
reactive dye then Hexa Meta phosphate (HMP) is used.
Fourth and fifth washer contains soap for both wet and reactive dyed fabric.
Seventh washer contains acetic acid. Water from seventh washer can be
transferred to the first washer.
Water in the washers is changed if a new lighter shade of the fabric is used after
darker shade. Also if the shade of the color is changed or a new color fabric is fed
then the currently used water is discharged and new water is fed. Generally water
is changed after every 1 or half an hour.
For drying the fabric for further processes eighteen hot cylinders are used and
through direct heating fabric is dried. Out of them two cylinders were in the front,
they are known as pulling cylinders.
Basically the cycle which the fabric undergoes in pad steam machine is:
Beam
A Ring
Final Fabric
hydro caustic
Hot Cylinders
Steamer
7 Washers
Then it is passed through nip rollers where it is squeezed between two rollers.
Basically nip rollers are used to remove the excess water in the fabric.
The speed of the machine can be changed according to the fabric type like
For Bottom weight fabrics: 45 m/min
For shirting fabrics: 30 m/min.
PDR (PAD DRY RANGE) MACHINE:
Parameters:
POPLIN
1. Temperature
2. Fan speed
3. Damper
4. I.R
5. Moist
BOTTOM
1. Temperature
2. Fan speed
3. Damper
4. I.R
5. Moist
CORDROY(bottom)
1. Temperature
2. Fan speed
3. Damper
120
50
5
5
VAT DYES
120 130
50
50
5
5
5
5
3+1
21%
VAT DYES
120 130 140
70
70
80
5
5
5
5
5
5
3+3
22%
0
0
5
5
150
80
5
5
REACTIVE DYES
120
130 140
70
70
80
5
5
5
5
5
5
3+2
30%
150
80
5
5
4. I.R
5. Moist
30%
REACTIVE DYES
170
200 200
200
80
80
80
80
5
5
5
5
5
5
5
5
3+3
40%
CORDROY(shirting
VAT DYES
REACTIVE DYES
)
1. Temperature
2. Fan speed
3. Damper
VAT DYES
120 135 150 150
70
70
80
80
5
5
5
5
5
5
5
5
REACTIVE DYES
120
130 130
0
50
50
50
0
5
5
5
5
5
5
5
5
2+0
45%
120
70
5
5
135
70
5
5
150
80
5
5
150
80
5
5
180
80
5
5
200
80
5
5
200
80
5
5
200
80
5
5
4. I.R
5. Moist
3+2
30%
2+2
40%
COLOR KITCHEN:
In this section colors are prepared for dyeing. Colors are mixed in a tank.
Number of tanks: 5
One dissolving tank and four tanks for different tanks.
The tank who needs the color for the particular machine takes the color from the
dissolving tank. Colors are prepared by mixing the dye with water and chemicals.
Following parameters are considered while preparing the dye:
Dissolving volume: 120 l
Preparations: 1
Preparation tank: anyone from the four tanks.
Total volume: 586 l
Heating mode: heating
Temperature 1: 50 C (temperature before adding color)
Temperature 2: 30 C (after adding color if more color is to be added after stirring)
Mixing time: according to the dye and chemicals used
CPB (cold patch batch):
This technique is a variation of pad dyeing. The fabric is immersed in the dye liquor
at room temperature. After the excess liquor is squeezed out by the pad rollers, the
roll of fabric is wrapped to prevent drying. It is then rotated slowly for up to 48 hours
to obtain uniformity of dye application. The fabric is then washed in a mild alkaline
solution to remove the liquor additives and unfixed dyes. Finally the cloth is extracted
and dried.
The dye stuff and alkali are combined in one bath through which the fabric is passed.
Excess liquor is squeezed out on the mangle and the fabric is batched on rolls which
are then covered with plastic sheets to prevent evaporation. It is then subsequently
washed.
Advantages:
This method uses less energy and less water which results in less pollution
Has the desired stability and rapid fixation while providing reliable and
consistent shade.
This machine is used for reactive dyes. Dye or color and silicate caustic are put in
trough. Only colors are imparted to the fabric, no drying of the fabrics happens.
FINISHING PROCESS:
Newly constructed fabric is called greige goods or grey fabric. The goods must pass
various finishing processes to make it suitable for its intended end use. Finishing may
change the appearance of the fabric, its hand (feel), its serviceability, and its
durability.in this unit:
Number of machine: 10
Number of workers: 25- 30 per shift
Monforts shrinkage range:
Then the fabric enters a huge unit containing one huge cylinder.
5-6 rollers
1 cylinder
5-6 rollers
Pre shrinkage
In this machine the fabric is passed through two different rollers and steam
and it is made to pass through a palmer which is like a thick blancket. After it
is passed through this the fabric gets its own shrinkage.
This processes required especially for cotton fabrics. Chemicals which gets
spread over it when it breaks it smoothes the surface.
+- 3% shrinkage is allowed.
STENTERING:
This process is applied at various stages of finishing. Usually the fabric is wet when it
is run into a tenter. After being relaxed during dyeing and finishing, all fabrics are
coaxed back to normal width on a tentering frame. The endless chain of mechanical
fingers, or tenter-frame clips, grips the fabric selvedges on entering the machine,
which has been set for the narrowest width of the fabric. Gently but firmly, the fingers
stretch the fabric to a predetermined width as is passes down the length of the tenter
over live steam and subsequently heat, which dries and sets the fabric.
Objectives:
This machine basically consists of two endless chains carried in rugged rails with a
distance between them that can be adjusted. The chains are equipped with clips or
pins, which grip the selvedge of the fabric and carry it into the heated housing where a
blast of hot air removes any moisture. Pin frames are mostly used on woolens or
knitted goods; clip frames are favored for cottons.
Stentering is a continuous operation in that the goods enter one end of the frame,
which usually 90 feet (30 m) long, and emerge from the other. The frame is equipped
with devices that straighten the filling and keep it at right angles to the warp, thus
avoiding biased goods.
No of machine: 3
i. BRUCKER STENTER: Mahlo machine
ii. Harish stenter
iii. Primatex FS-100 stenter
Strength of the fabric is also improved from Stentering. Moreover silicon finishing is
also given simultaneously for feel improvement.
BRUCKER STENTER
Mahlo: weft straightener
For checking of the fabric
For bow and skew
Number of cameras: 4(for identifying bow and skew)
There are rollers in the machine which imparts bow and skew to some fabrics. For
example, for bottom fabric skew is necessary, so the rollers are set according to the
amount of skew required.
Photo sensors are fixed in the machine for better rest. The fabric stretched here where
fan is given to cool the excess temperature while heating. There are 4 heating system
after Stentering.
There are 10 chambers each with different temperature and the distance between two
chambers is 3 meters. Every chamber has a fan.
CHAMBERS
1st chamber
2nd chamber
3rd chamber
4th chamber
5th
chamber
th
6 chamber
7th chamber
8th chamber
9th chamber
10th chamber
TEMPERATURE IN ` C
90
98
101
113
115
107
120
106
109
109
The standard temperature for all kinds of shirting fabrics is 110 `C but for
bottom weights it is kept 150 `C.
Cooling cylinders
HARISH MACHINE:
This machine is also used for Stentering. Its working is equivalent to mahlo
type the difference lies in hearting mode. Here gas heating is given to the
fabric instesd of oil heating in Mahlo.
PREMATEN MACHINE:
MONFORT MACHINE:
Latest machine
Rubber unit is present to give pressure. Shrinkage is set here. So the fabric is
squeezed inside.
Pamer unit: made up of woolen blanket. Two cylinders are present one big and
one small for drying.
After the fabric is being processed various types of finishes are given to the fabric
according to the intended end use of the fabric.
It is basically of three types:
Finishing
Normal finishing
Mechanical
finishing
Silicon finish
Softener finish
Chemical finish
Mechanical finish which includes peach finish, brush, calendaring, raise finish
Teflon finish
Vitamin E finish
Anti-microbial finish:
Chemical antiseptic finishes impart a self-sterilizing quality to a fabric. The
appearance and feel of the fabric are unchanged, and no chemical odor
remains. Dry-cleaning does not impair the finish.
Uv cut
3X dry finish
In chemical finishing, heat treatment is given where the fabric is passed through a
vessel called trough where chemical is put. And then through nip rollers which
squeeze the fabric. The speed and temperature of the machine is maintained according
to the fabric type. The chemical gets bonded with the structure of the fabric while it
comes out this result in harsh surface of the fabric so in the final stage softening finish
is given to the fabric.
Peach finish (Mechanical finish):
Machine type:
Zetma (advanced gamatex)
Amerising machine:
Calendar machine:
Calendaring is a final process in which heat and pressure are applied to a fabric by
passing it between heated rollers, imparting a flat, glossy, smooth surface. Luster
increases when the degree of heat and pressure is increased. Calendaring is applied to
fabrics in which a smooth, flat surface is desirable, such as most cottons, many linens
and silks, and various man-made fabrics. In such fabrics as velveteen, a flat surface is
not desirable, and the cloth is steamed while in tension, without pressing. When
applied to wool, the process is called pressing, and employs heavy, heated metal
plates to steam and press the fabric. Calendering is not usually a permanent process.
Raising machine:
This process is given to the fabric for improving the aesthetic value of it. There are
two rollers in the machine and pins are protruding out of the outer surfaces of these
rollers. When the fabric is rubbed with these surfaces the yarns of the fabric gets
pulled outwards which gives a different feel.
It gives flammel effect.
2. I. f. FINISH FOLDING
4 point inspection happens in randomly selected samples of the fabric rolls.
A 4 point defect is considered a 2 defect and a 2 point defect is considered as a single
defect.
A sample from each roll is taken for shade sorting and grouping
The reasons for the major defects (ex.-Crease, tight selvedge, stain) are analysed and a
backup report is sent to the concerned department. Acc. to the variations
After grouping, sent to checking for packing thela packing India and Cartons are
used for corduroy .Plastic covers are used for packing
If the roll length is less than the specified length by the buyers, there are possibilities
of rejection or discount.
The shipment time also delays with defects and quality issues.
In 100 mtrs 35 points are allowed. 4 point defects not more than 4 are allowed in
100metres.
The packing and transferring data is fed simultaneously into the computer as the
processes occur. Processing of the order is done in small parts.
Requirement sheet comes from party and name of the method includes full detailing.
Randomly reinspection is done for every 5-10% of the lot and reports are made every
day.
Pantaloon, Zodiac, Aditya, etc are major buyers of BVM..
According to size, fabric is classified into different categories:
1) Press( as Per buyers requirement)
No. of workers are 78, ITI trainees are 15 and Unskilled workers are 20.
Defects after finishing
Dyeing :1) color stain
2) discharge daghi
3) dropping
4) dyed dhabba
5) Dyed tapki daghi
6) Dyed daghi
7) Dyeing crease
8) Dyeingpatches
9) Dyeing patta
10) Dyeing stopmark
2. I. g. SQC
QUALITY STANDARDS
Stage-I: Quality control of the Input Materials such as Fiber, Yarns, Grey Fabrics,
Chemicals and Dyes
Stage-II: Quality control of the Process through surveillance at each manufacturing
stage
Stage III: Quality control of Final Products
The quality of fabric is checked at grey and finished stages under 4-point grading
system. Finally folding and packing department has roll to roll inspection facilities
to ensure fault-free longer length quality fabric prior to its delivery to customers.
deduction(variation)
Diagram(cardiogram)
2) Sensor CS: Weighs
of
hairiness,
Relative
count,
Mass
Fully computerized and well equipped in house laboratory ensures high quality
parameters from fiber to finished fabric including all other inputs.
The Equipment include Uster Hvi 900 Classic, Uster UT4-SX and Uster
Classimat CMT-3, Data Colour Matching system SF 600, Ahiba Spectra Dye with
Auto dispersing system, Labourtex Padder, dryer and pad steam.
TESTING INSTRUMENT
FIBRE TESTING- Uster
MANUFACTURER
Zell wager-uster
APPLICATION
All cotton properties like
Switzerland
MODEL
Cotton trash analyzer
color, trash
Trash%
Moisture meter
coimbatore
Star electronics and
Yarn Testing;
engineering, Baroda
Zell wager-uster
yarn packages,etc
Unevenness of sliver
Uster tester-4(UT-43x)
Switzerland
Zell wager-uster
faulty)
Seldom occurring faults like
6 spindles
KMI computerized electronic
P.S. Mattler
Kamal metal Industries
length(Total 23 in number)
Single yarn strength, fabric
tensile tester
Af coset electronic count
Ahmedabad
Straten eng. (p) ltd.
tensile strength
Count Checking
Coimbatore
Ten lab industries
machine
Kmi electronic twist tester
Ahmedabad
Kamal metal Industries
Appearance Board)
For twist Checking- z&s
Ahmedabad
Good Brand and Co. ltd
direction
For twist Checking- z&s
England
Libra industries
direction
For weight purposes
Bombay
8801M
instrument
England
The other functions of the PPC includes receiving inspection of all purchased
products, in process and final inspection and testing, compilation and maintaining the
result of defect analysis every month as applied to each manufacturing process, with
hold in process and finished items not meeting the requirement and reporting to
management.
Note:
1.
2.
3.
corduroy
4.
5.
According
to
the
Customer
complaints,
satisfaction,
8.
1 JAN.
2 FEB.
3 MAR.
4 APR.
5 MAY
6 JUNE
7 JULY
8 AUG
9 SEP
10 OCT
11NOV
12 DEC
1,16,057
1,39,965
1,83,930
2,15,145
1,48,637
2,00,030
2,36,681
1,82,045
1,74,445
2,02,798
2,26,520
2,54,805
(Beams/day)
18.3
17.7
17.5
19.4
19.9
16.8
18.4
20.9
17.56
17.25
20.2
19.5
10
11
12
10,00,596
_______
_______
2. I. h ENGINEERING
The engineering department takes control over the overall maintenance of
machineries, processing plans and utilities, Building maintenance, overall in charge of
electric maintenance, Liaison work with Pollution Control Board, directorate of boiler
and electrical inspectorate, Overall supervision of security department, Maintenance
of telephones, both internal and external.
Supernant tank
Clarifier Tank
2. I. j. LABORATORY
A laboratory in the manufacturing industry plays an important role in the production
standards of the company. A sample production is carried out as per the proposed
standards and variations required are analysed as per the practicality. Chemical
processing done at a small scale sampling
3 main activities in lab:
1) Fabric dyeing: Detects absorbency
2) Yarn dyeing
3) Before absorbency and after shrinkage and fastness testing
Lab Dyeing has two steps:
1. Lab dyeing before order for preparation before order and is matched with lab dip
after drying over original fabric pieces, IPC department.
2. Lab to bulk correlation is done after RFD and finishing. If shade variation comes it
is sent back to dyeing. RF dyeing: Ready for dyeing H2O2 improves whiteness.
Dye lab and process control lab consists of the following equipments.
Equipments for testing state of the fabric at the start and the end of the fabric
1) Wagner hot press.
2) Digi washer paramount
3) Washing machines: whirlpool
4) Tumble dryer
5) Oven
6) Tear tester: paramount
7) GSM cutter
8) Crock meter
9) PH meter
10) Microwave oven
11) Hank Preparation machine
12) Labortex padding machine
13) Labortex drying machine
14) Labortex pad steam
15) Data color dispenser: Combined lab dispenser and solution maker and
is used for yarn dyeing. Manually, values are fed into the computer for
the dye recipe and the recipe is combined automatically by the
dispenser. It is only used for yarn dyeing, the concentration not enough
for fabric dyeing.
16) Data color CCM-SF600 plus
17) Crease recovery tester
Spectra photometer XW-2000 infrared sampling machine: Spectral value of the
shade is determined. A Spectrometer scans the color and calculates the spectral
value.
ADMINISTRATION
Responsible for setting quality objectives in their areas and obtaining MDs approval;
also periodic review of progress against established objectives and continual
improvement projects.
HUMAN RESOURCE MANAGER
Responsible for Consolidating training requirements and preparing training calendar
based on approved training needs, Organizing requisite training programs inline with
training calendar, Induction training for new entrants, Safety and welfare activities,
Maintenance of training records.
SECOND LEVEL MANAGERS
Ensuring development, implementation and maintenance of quality management
system, issue and control of the quality manual, quality system procedures, (and their
revisions, resolving and taking appropriate actions on matters of conflicting nature on
quality system, arranging periodical internal audits, reporting on the performance and
any need for improvement, ensuring promotion of awareness of customer
requirements through out the organization., coordinating management reviews,
maintaining records of management reviews etc.
There exists a union, BVM workers union for the welfare and representation of
the workers. There is a peaceful coexistence amongst the employees, workers and
management.
STAFF AND WORKERS
Department
Staff
Workers
Spinning
19
414
Weaving
Processing
63
40
862
233
-Dyeing
Engineering
Lab
SQC
Sales, Marketing,
44
26
20
57
104
10
0
144
78
41
-Yarn dyeing
-Bleaching
-finance
-accounts
2. II. d. PERSONNEL
Overall in charge of administration and personnel department, Looking after the
duties of office administration, liaison works with labor department, inspector of
factories, ESI, PF and other offices, Attend legal matters/court cases i.e. labor court,
industrial tribunal, civil courts and labor departments, Discussing with trade union of
factory with regard to production, discipline, grievances etc.,Settlement of terminal
benefits of retired/VRS employees and those died in service, Submissions of
periodical returns to various Govt. departments, To supervise the functions of Time
Office as well as establishment, Maintenance of various files in connection with
official, legal matters, court cases, disciplinary matters etc., Conducting domestic
enquiries, initiating disciplinary proceedings against workers/staff., Recruitment and
training.
MARKETING
Consolidate monthly indents from showrooms, dealers, etc and present data in the
monthly production review meetings
Sizing machine(small, winding and size spreading ) is present for prearation of the
yarn for weaving.
Small samples of the size 6*16 inch are produced woven. Currently, 5 desk hand
looms are present which produce 15 samples per day.
Total number workers who work in the design department are 9 to 10.
Design
3 designers and 4 trainees are present in this section who develop the design and the
weave structure of the fabric as per buyer specifications or innovative fashion design
release. They use CAD for development of the designs:
The designs once developed are send to the marketing department who interact with
the target customers and sent the report to the PPC who in turn notify the design
department about the changes and to develop the final weave structure.
Dobby designs are developed using individual colors for the warp and weft and
providing the intersection points as the dobby design.
Denting can also be done in the software(Since creel capacity is 480, the designs
are done accordingly).
Scanned picture can be converted into a pixilated digital image which coverts into a
jacquard design, the repeat size specified
PROCUREMENT
2. IV. a. PURCHASE
Carries forward purchase activities since from the purchase requisition stage till
settlement of payment to the supplier and is responsible for stores activities since
from receipts stage to till accounting departments as per their requirement against
indents. Service contracts like transportation, calibration, maintenance, annual
maintenance contract for computers, scales etc. and looking after day to day
correspondence pertaining to stores and purchase department, pursuance of proposal
which we sent to SPC for approval.
Intenders and user departments are consulted for suitability of the items.
2. IV. b. STORES
Responsible for Receipt and inspection of finished products, Stock entry separately
for accepted/rejected items, Separate storage of accepted/rejected items as per the
conditions laid down in the procedure. Maintenance of stock ledger. Inspections of
rejected materials for fixing discounts and declaring as seconds.
Issue/receipt of materials:
2.
3.
Handling: Proper handlings equipments are used ton avoid damage, spoiling,
wastage of materials.
4.
Store accounting:
The sourceing is done through agents and direct deals with trading companies
such as vishal trading company.
MCV 5, PCH qualities are 50s count and are imported from USA.(12,000 bales
were imported recently.
Cotton yarn produced is 125 metric tonne per month(28,000 spindles)(upto march
2006) but from march 2006 the spinning mill has been expanded. The
consumption of yarn in april was 200 metric tonne. T
The superior count of yarn bought is 2/80s and 2/100s counts. Gold / silver coated
yarn is also bought.
Ex: Sundar waste, Niranjan waste are the waste buying agents. The waste sales
produce around 5-6 crores Rs per year.
WASTE PRODUCTION REPORT:
MONTH
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
TOTAL
LOOMSHED
WEAVING +
WINDNG
WEAVING
WASTE
SIZING
WASTE
3.41
4.06
3.38
3.26
3.63
3.41
3.62
3.82
3.99
4.1
3.9
WASTE
2.44
2.86
2.64
2.04
2.28
2.34
2.09
1.94
2.3
2.04
1.94
1.15
1.12
1.09
1.32
1.21
1.10
1.35
1.30
1.39
1.21
1.12
WASTE
5.47
6.60
5.40
5.01
5.52
5.09
5.39
5.59
5.99
5.96
5.68
FINANCE
2. V. ACCOUNTS
FINANCIAL EXPANSION STATUS
The Textile division increased its turnover by 30% to Rs.194.44 crore in 2004-05,
accounting for 27% of the Company's turnover of which domestic turn over has
increased by 62% and production has been grown by 21% over the previous year. Net
revenue for the year 04-05 is Rs.188.61 crores which is grown by 32% over the
previous year. The previous year was the first full year of working of the expanded
capacity of 18 mn metres per annum and the business arrangement with Canclini
Tessile S.p.A, the only such association within the industry with a reputed
international textile company. The Company serviced brand-enhancing customers like
Van Heusen, Louis Phillip, Allen Solly, Peter England, Park Avenue and Pantaloons
with larger volumes. Value addition: Introduction of value-added products (structured
fabrics with higher thread counts in the shirting segment, yarn-dyed corduroy shirting
and Pima cotton yarn-based corduroy fabric in the corduroy segment).
Prompt settlement of supplier bill, Participation in committee for evaluation and
selection of new suppliers, Collecting information from units regarding for cash flow,
MIS and other necessary information, Preparation of balance sheet, Maintenance of
accounts relating to corporation, Scrutiny of wages bill and other bills connected to
business transactions, Liaison with banks, AG audits/statutory auditors, PF and ESI
office etc
Particulars
Nine
Months
Ended on
Quarter
Ended
on
31/12/2005
31/3/06
31/03/05
Year
Ended
on
31/03/2006
(Audited)
Year
Ended
on
31/03/2005
(Audited)
Quarter
Ended
on
[1]
53538.29
[2]
31804.15
[3]
24186.04
[4]
85342.44
[5]
65871.56
Other Income
1381.33
1597.62
12.02
2978.95
1053.02
Total Income
54919.62
33401.77
24198.06
88321.39
66924.58
Total Expenditure
43908.65
27004.85
19865.65
70913.50
54553.23
(185.54)
1032.58
(2112.24)
847.04
(1873.25)
30975.93
20077.72
17310.58
51053.65
41486.77
3908.81
1622.08
2096.06
5530.89
4859.02
2427.51
1314.94
832.30
3742.45
3055.00
6781.94
2082.51
2957.53
826.75
1738.94
602.06
9739.47
2909.26
7025.69
2485.26
Depreciation
2233.12
835.37
668.29
3068.49
2825.03
6695.34
4734.81
3062.07
11430.15
7061.06
1886.97
(152.51)
304.13
1734.46
758.50
- Deferred Tax
(309.91)
801.29
633.55
491.38
1290.51
5118.28
4086.03
2124.39
9204.31
5012.05
Year(Net)
Profit After Tax
5118.28
(2.66)
4083.37
378.63
2503.02
(2.66)
9201.65
378.63
5390.68
11
1847.67
1973.17
1847.67
1973.17
1847.67
42973.39
32371.44
12
14
-Basic EPS
5.54
4.40
3.32
9.95
7.14
-Diluted EPS
5.04
3.96
3.20
8.93
7.10
- Number of Shares
61284125
66084125
61284125
66084125
61284125
- Percentage of Shareholding
66.34%
66.98%
66.34%
66.98%
66.34%
Aggregate of Non-Promoter
Shareholding
Notes:
1
The above Financial Results were reviewed by the Audit Committee and were thereafter taken on record by the Board of Directors at its
meeting held on April 25, 2006.
The Board of Directors have recommended dividend @ 44 % i.e. Rs.0.88 per equity share for the year 2005-06,subject to approval of
shareholders.
Equity Share of Rs.10/- has been sub-divided in to Five Eqity Shares of Rs.2/- each, hence all related references for the previous year periods
have been restated for the sake of comparability.
62,75,000 equity shares were allotted during the period 23rd March, 2006 to 31st March, 2006 consequent to exercise of 12,55,000 warrants
out of 31,85,000 warrants issued in 2004-05 and outstanding on 31/03/05 at Rs.56.02 per share. Further, the holders of 19,30,000 remaining
warrants in respect of the said issue are entitled to apply for five equity shares per warrant at any time up to 31st July, 2006
During the year the Company issued USD 50 million Zero Coupon Foreign Currency Convertible Bonds due 2010. The bonds are
convertible into 1,19,56,575 shares at any time upto 14th September, 2010. Subsequent to 31st March, 2006, FCCBs aggregating to US$ 8.5
million (Rs.3731.50 lacs) have been converted into 20,32,616 equity shares upto 24th April, 2006.
The Company has received Rs.15021.76 lacs from proceeds of preferential allotment of equity shares/ warrants up to 31.03.2006. The
proceeds have been utilised for capital expenditure of Rs.9655.32 lacs including ongoing capital expenditure of Rs.3070.47 lacs and for
repayments of loans of Rs.5366.44 lacs
7
8
Rs. in lacs
Schedules
Rupees
Share Capital
1847.67
48871.44
2005
2004
Rupees
Rupees
Shareholders' Funds:
1456.17
33742.01
50719.11
35198.18
1392.12
Loan Funds :
Secured Loans
33822.26
29822.23
Unsecured Loans
18.66
35.49
33840.92
29857.72
5703.56
4413.05
TOTAL
91655.71
69468.95
APPLICATION OF FUNDS
Fixed Assets:
Gross Block
66942.44
62951.62
Less: Depreciation
17598.33
14926.48
Net Block
49344.11
48025.14
2962.47
1833.20
Investments:
52306.58
49858.34
16746.75
5686.22
10684.68
7545.67
Sundry Debtors
14811.39
11572.65
7831.52
1922.80
10
4445.16
3598.76
37772.75
24639.88
15780.65
11035.38
21992.10
13604.50
12
610.28
319.89
TOTAL
91655.71
69468.95
11
Miscellaneous Expenditure
(To the extent not written off or adjusted)
19
20
Segment Wise Revenue, Results and Capital Employed For Financial Year ended 31st March
2006.
(Rs. In lacs)
Sr.
Particulars
No.
Nine Months
Quarter
Quarter
Year Ended on
Year
Ended on
Ended on
Ended on
Ended on
31/03/2006
31/03/2005
31/12/2005
31/03/06
31/03/05
(Audited)
(Audited)
Segment Revenue
a) Textile
17625.78
7307.00
6507.87
24932.78
19096.29
b) Plastics
36306.94
24479.23
17566.51
60786.17
47497.64
c) Un allocated
221.63
115.43
54.02
337.06
141.51
Total
54154.35
31901.66
24128.40
86056.01
66735.44
0.00
0.00
0.00
0.00
0.00
Total Revenue
54154.35
31901.66
24128.40
86056.01
66735.44
a) Textile
2549.06
1359.35
1315.39
3908.41
3090.22
b) Plastics
5268.88
2598.33
2227.32
7867.21
6148.39
c) Un allocated
959.91
1603.88
121.42
2563.79
307.71
Total
8777.85
5561.56
3664.13
14339.41
9546.32
Less : Interest
2082.51
826.75
602.06
2909.26
2485.26
6695.34
4734.81
3062.07
11430.15
7061.06
14875.16
Segment Result
Profit/Loss (before tax and
interest from each
segment)
Capital Employed
(Segment Assets - Segment
Liabilities) :
a) Textile
17482.96
24086.40
14875.16
24086.40
b) Plastics
20775.86
12175.12
5692.87
12175.12
5692.87
c) Others
23360.46
14969.03
37246.76
14969.03
37246.76
Total
61619.28
51230.55
57814.79
51230.55
57814.79
Notes:
1
Segment revenue in each of the above business segments primarily includes sales service charges, rent, profit on sale of Fixed Assets
(net), Miscellaneous sales and Export Incentive.
Figures for the previous year/quarter have been re-grouped / rearranged wherever necessary.
Disclaimer clause: The information furnished above is certified by Sintex Industries Limited to be
true, fair and accurate (except in respect of errors in or omissions from documents filed electronically
that result solely from electronic transmission errors beyond our control and in respect of which we
take corrective action as soon as it is reasonably practicable after becoming aware of the error or the
omission). SEBI, the Stock Exchanges or the NIC do not take any responsibility for the accuracy,
validity, consistency and integrity of the data entered and updated by it.
Name of the compliance officer :
Mr. L.M. Rathod
C.F.O & Company Secretary
Sintex Industries Limited
Kalol (N.G.) - 382 721
Rs. in lacs
PROFIT & LOSS ACCOUNT FOR THE YEAR ENDED 31 ST MARCH
INCOME:
Schedules
Gross Sales
Less: Excise duty & Sales Tax recovered on Sales
Net Sales
Rupees
2005
2004
Rupees
Rupees
71516.37
58077.54
5644.81
5108.39
65871.56
52969.15
Other Income
13
1053.02
875.71
14
1873.25
882.23
68797.83
54727.09
EXPENDITURE:
Raw Materials consumed
15
31814.72
25437.04
Employees' Emoluments
16
3055.00
2646.22
17
21556.76
16834.96
18
2485.26
2623.68
Depreciation
2825.03
2263.45
61736.77
49805.35
7061.06
4921.74
758.50
Deferred Tax
1290.51
545.00
995.10
2049.01
1540.10
5012.05
3381.64
378.63
(15.51)
5390.68
3366.13
7533.10
7302.53
12923.78
10668.66
0.00
126.54
739.07
436.85
APPROPRIATIONS:
Interim Dividend - Preference Shares
Proposed Dividend - Equity Shares
Tax on Dividend
96.60
72.17
General Reserve
1000.00
1000.00
0.00
1500.00
11088.11
7533.10
12923.78
10668.66
Basic
35.71
22.14
Diluted
35.49
22.14
19
20
3. CONCLUSION
Plant Capacities
-
TECHNOLOGY
A tradition of continuous modernization and up-gradation of technology has enabled
BVM in becoming globally competitive. It is fully geared to offer international
quality textile products, manufactured to the latest trends and styles.
Winding Section
Murata & Schlafhorst, Automatic 238 and 338 models. All the machines are equipped
with Automatic Splicing, Electronic Yarn Clearers and other automatic devices.
LoomShed
38 Air-jet and 123 Rapier looms from PICANOL. (Year of Installation - 1999) The
existing Rapier looms are capable of producing checks of 4 to 8 colors in weft and are
equipped with dobbies which can produce designs up to 22 shafts. 72 more Omni Air
Jet looms with the capacity of producing fault-free cloth.
Processing Machineries
Selected latest state of the art, eco friendly, open-width continuous process system
ensuring consistent whiteness / shade across and along the fabric, higher productivity
and shorter lead times. It consists of pretreatment machineries like the Osthoff
Singeing with eco friendly dust free Vibra plus cleaning system. Goller Desizing,
washing, bleaching and mercerizing machines. High level of automation and on-line on-site process control gives high degree of consistency and reproductivity.
Criteria of selecting technology in BVM are:
- Maximum possible accuracy first time, on time and every time.
- Eco- friendly technology
- Economizing on water, energy and salt utilization.
Pretreatment Machineries
- OSTHOFF singing - Goller desize
- EFFECTA Washer- Goller
- Continuous Bleaching - Goller
- OPTIMA Chainless Mercerize-Goller
Fabric Dyeing
Fully computerized German machineries from the Kusters, Bruckner and Goller are
present. All continuous machines with automatic colour kitchens and all level micro
processor controls are installed for better productivity and quality in shorter lead time.
Dyeing machineries (year of installation)
-
Pad-steam-Goller ( 2001 )
Stenter- BRUCKNER
Finishing machineries