HANDLING AND RESTRAINING OF CATS

Submitted to :
Department of LPM

Submitted by:
KIRAN HJ VHK1227
KUMAR. K VHK1229
MAILARAPPA. VHK 1230
MANJU HM VHK 1231
MANJUNATH VHK1232

HANDLING AND RESTRAINT OF CATS

There are several effective methods to handle and restrain a
cat. Your choice will depend on whether the individual animal is
tranquil and cooperative or frightened and aggressive.

PICKING UP A CAT
As a general rule, it is advisable to reach down and pick up a
cat from above. A face-to-face confrontation might provoke a
cat into becoming uncooperative or aggressive.
Cooperative Cat: Place one hand around the abdomen beneath
the chest and take hold of the front legs so they cross over
each other, keeping your index finger between them for a
secure grip. Pick up the cat and snuggle it close to your body.
Cradle the chin with your other hand.
Apprehensive Cat: Reach down and lift the cat by the scruff of
its neck. Most cats go limp--as they did when their mothers
carried them as kittens. Support the back feet with your other
hand.

Frightened Cat: Cover the animal with a towel. After a minute

or two, as the cat becomes calmer, slide the rest of the towel
underneath and lift up the cat as a bundle.
Aggressive Cat: Slip a leash or a loop of rope over the cat's
head and one front leg. Then lift the animal by the leash and
set it down on a table or into a cat carrier or box. This method
should be used only as a last resort because it is certain to
agitate the cat further.

Some cats prefer to be carried like a baby, facing backward

with their forelegs over your shoulders, and their hind quarters
supported with your free hand. This is fine once you and the cat
are accustomed to each other. Initially, however, its not a good
idea. If the cat is spooked, shes likely to dig her front claws into
your back, and her back claws into your chest to launch herself
like a rocket away from you.
Never pick up a cat with both hands by the midsection without
supporting the hind legs. This will upset most cats and leave
their back paws free to scratch you.
If its necessary to handle a feral cat, an injured cat, or a cat
who seems prone to biting or scratching, wear heavy duty
gloves and a long sleeved shirt or jacket.
If you are unaccustomed to handling cats, you should not
attempt to pick up feral or injured cats yourself if its possible to
find someone more experienced to help you.
In most cases, feral cats should be trapped rather than
handled. Your vet or local shelter will usually have traps
available to borrow or rent.
Often, badly injured cats should not be moved unless its to
move them out of harms way (the middle of a street, for
example). Then contact a veterinarian to determine whether
the cat should be moved, and how best to do so.

Some cats simply dont like to be handled. Over time, gentle

petting and treats may help you gain their trust, but dont
assume every cat can be picked up safely on the first attempt.
Give it time, and chances are that eventually shell come
around.
Tip 1: Handle cooperatively rather than forcefully. We wouldnt
want our children handled forcefully for a medical examination.
Animals dont like to be man-handled either. Such handling can
establish negative relationships, which can quickly lead to
resistance and defensive behavior by the pet. Its best to learn
more cooperative ways for handling pets (and people too!).
Tip 2: Greet your patient first. Its disconcerting when a medical
professional marches into the room and starts manipulating you
before you have been properly greeted. The same behavior
with animals can really freak them out too. Its best for
veterinary staff and other petcare professionals to spend a little
time greeting animals properly before examining them. That
means approaching sideways, moving in a smooth manner and
offering something they like, such as a treat. At minimum, give
them time to get used to your presence.
Tip 3: Avoid getting angry or shouting. Communicate in a way
that puts the patient at ease. Youd probably be pretty shocked
if the doctor scolded your child for wiggling during an
examination, especially if you knew she was wiggling because
the procedure was scary, uncomfortable, or painful. The same
demeanor can shock and scare a dog or a cat, or for that
matter, a rabbit, bird or horse too. Thats why its best to make
sure you are handling and communicating with the animal in a
way that will put him at ease.
Tip 4: Avoid restraining in a manner that causes fear and
panic. Handle in a manner that helps the animal feel
comfortable and safe. Some medical professionals resort to
using force to hold their young patients down while they are
struggling in panic. Those who are more knowledgeable about
child behavior can take those same patients and use words to
keep them calm and cooperative. The same is true with dogs

and cats. Its best to avoid restraining in a way that causes fear
or panic. Its smarter to put the patient at ease by handling
with skill.

RESTRAINING FOR TREATMENT

When the cat is cooperative, routine procedures such as
grooming, bathing, or even medicating are best carried out in
quiet surroundings with a minimum of physical restraint.
Approach the cat with confidence and handle it gently. Most
cats can be coaxed into accepting the procedure and do not
need to be restrained.

Restraining for treatment. Hold firmly for any treatment that

might prove unpleasant.
Cooperative Cat: Lift the cat onto a smooth surface such as a
tabletop. The cat will be less secure--but still not frightened.
Speak in a calm soothing voice until the cat relaxes. Place one
hand around the front of the chest to keep the cat from moving
forward. Use your other hand to administer treatment.
Uncooperative Cat: Depending on the degree of agitation,
several methods are available. If cooperative enough to permit
handling, then grasp the cat by the scruff of the neck and press
firmly against the top of the table so that the cat stretches out.
These actions will prevent you from being scratched by the

cat's rear claws.

Picking up the cat. Reach down and grasp the cat by the scruff
of the neck. Secure the back feet with your other hand. Note
the position of the fingers, which securely immobilize the front
legs.
--J.Clawson

A leash and loop restraint. The cat is immobilized by drawing

the leash taut. To keep the cat from being choked, the loop
should include one leg.
--J. Clawson

A cat bag restraint is useful for treating the head.

--J. Clawson

A cat muzzle that covers the eyes and ears has a calming
effect.

Transporting an injured or uncooperative cat. Lift the cat as

described in the text and lower it into a sack or pillowcase.
--J. Clawson
When help is available, have your assistant stand behind the
cat and place both hands around the cat's neck or front legs
while pressing his or her arms against the cat's sides. Wrapping
a towel or blanket around the cat has a calming effect and is
useful for short procedures such as giving medication. An
assistant is required to steady the cat and hold the wraps in
place.
Note: A coat sleeve makes an excellent restraint. The cat will
often scoot into it willingly. Hold the end of the sleeve securely
around the cat's neck. Now you can treat the head or tail.

When procedures take longer and the cat cannot be managed

by the above methods, lift the cat straight up from behind by
the scruff of the neck with one hand and hold the rear paws
together with the other. Press down firmly on the table so the
cat is lying on its side with body extended. Now have an
assistant bind the front legs together with adhesive tape, taking
two or three turns below the elbows. Secure the rear legs by
wrapping with tape above the hocks. Calm the cat by covering
its head with a towel or cloth.
When properly restrained, cats usually settle down and accept
the treatment. Once released, they soon forget the unpleasant
experience.

TRANSPORTING AN INJURED CAT

NO MATTER HOW DOCILE BY BASIC NATURE, ANY CAT IN PAIN
MAY SCRATCH OR BITE. Proper handling will prevent injuries.
Furthermore, struggling can cause a weak or injured cat to tire
quickly and can produce further shock and collapse.

If able to handle, pick up the cat as described for Cooperative

Cat, then settle it over your hip so the rear claws project out
behind where they can do no harm. Press the inside of your
elbow and forearm against the cat's side, holding the cat firmly
against your body. Cover the eyes and ears with your other
hand.

If the cat is frightened or in pain, take precautions to avoid

injury. Lift the cat at once from behind by the nape of the neck
and lower it into a cat carrier or a cloth bag such as a
pillowcase. The material must not be airtight, or the cat will
smother. Once inside with no way to see out, the animal will
feel secure and begin to relax. Transport the cat to the
veterinary hospital.

If unable to handle, first throw a towel over the cat, then set a
box on top. Raise the edge of the box and slide the top
underneath. The cat is now enclosed and can be transported.

Restraining an injured cat is a great technique to learn to help

your pet receive the proper cat care. How you approach the cat
will depend on whether the cat is cooperative or uncooperative.
This is important because a cat has five weapons: the mouth
and four claws. Cats don't react in their usual manner when
they're injured because of the stresses involved. The following
methods should minimize your chances of being scratched or
bitten by the frightened cat you are trying to help.

Restraining a Cooperative Cat

You should try Method 1 or Method 2 when you have someone
else with you to help your injured cat. Place the cat in your
arms or lap or on a table or other raised surface using either of
the following two methods.