DISCOVER HAWKES BAY

Fabulous art deco architecture, lush wineries,

beautiful beaches and a mild climate make Hawkes Bay
a must-visit corner of New Zealand
WORDS: Rebecca Burdett

H
Images: Hawkes Bay Tourism

awkes Bay on the eastern coast of New

Zealands North Island is one of the first
places in the world to great the new day.
Awaking well before dawn I headed down
to the shoreline to watch the sun rise, casting its
glimmering sheen, across the vast and seemingly
endless Pacific Ocean.
I was up early for a reason the tide was right for me
to walk the seaside pathway to Cape Kidnappers. This
walk is only safe at low tide so checking the time
beforehand is essential. Cape Kidnappers is a jutting
windswept headland that is home to the worlds largest
and most easily accessible mainland colony of

Main image, teeing off at

Cape Kidnappers Golf Course

30

A u s t r a l i a & N Z | S e p t e m b e r 2 0 16

www.getmedownunder.com

www.getmedownunder.com

A u s t r a l i a & N Z | S e p t e m b e r 2 0 16 

31

The gannet colony

at Cape Kidnappers

DISCOVER HAWKES BAY

Apricots are grown
in Hawkes Bay

Cyclists tackle the

Landscapes Ride

Hawkes Bay is NZs second

largest winegrowing region

Australasian Gannets. These birds

usually nest on remote islands out
to sea so being able to see them so
close on land is quite a privilege.
The plateau at Cape Kidnappers
is home to up to 15,000 gannets at
any one time, with the best
viewing opportunities between
October to March when the fluffy
white chicks are born. The gannets
have been nesting here since the
1870s and are increasing in number
each year.
They are grand looking birds
with their distinct orange crowns
and huge wing spans of up to two
metres. At Cape Kidnappers you
get to watch the birds at close
quarters.
They partner for life and
welcome each other back to the
nest with lots of neck rubbing and
squawking. In the air they appear to
soar on the breeze but the most
impressive sight is when they fold
up their wings and dive vertically
head first into the depths of the
ocean to fish.
32

A u s t r a l i a & N Z | S e p t e m b e r 2 0 16

Getting to see the gannets and

their antics however is only half the
fun as the journey over to them is
just as good.

going the distance

There are several ways to reach
Cape Kidnappers you can choose
to venture across the sand by tractor
or four-wheel drive vehicle or

five hours in total (you return the

same way) and is fairly easy, with
just a short climb at the end to
reach the gannets. Its also a perfect
way to work off the calories from
consuming that famous Hawkes
Bay produce which Ill come to
shortly.
Walking also offers the
opportunity to marvel at the

The plateau at Cape

Kidnappers is home to
up to 15,000 gannets
maybe even paddle by kayak if the
sea is calm enough.
There is even the option of a
scenic helicopter flight if you are
feeling flush and wish to arrive in
style. Never one to take the easy
option I chose to walk the distance
along the beach and enjoy the
famous Hawkes Bay sunshine. This
enjoyable seaside walk takes about

magnificent towering cliffs which

frame the beach here. A geologists
dream, they are made up from
deposits of sandstone, river gravel,
pumice and silt and date back
nearly one million years.
I always find figures like this
difficult to comprehend and cant
help but ponder what these cliffs
must have witnessed. The many
www.getmedownunder.com

fragmented fault lines and ridges

along the rock face are clearly
visible and have been caused by the
many earthquakes that have shaken
this area. Some of these cliffs seem
to have so many lines through
them that you cant help but
wonder at their fragility in places
you dont want to hang around
under them for too long!
It sounds bizarre to call a place as
fascinating as this Cape
Kidnappers. So after my walk I
decided to look up its history and
discover the reason behind the
name. Like many places Down
Under it was named by the great
explorer Captain Cook after an
attempt by local Maori to kidnap
one of his crew.

wining and dining

Im a firm believer when I travel
that you cant go far wrong with
local recommendations, which is
why I decided to treat myself to
dinner at Elephant Hill Winery.
This extraordinary looking
www.getmedownunder.com

establishment sits dramatically on

the Hawkes Bay Te Awanga
coastline surrounded by vineyards
and infinity pools.
The building features a lot of
glass allowing you to appreciate the
picture postcard sea views. The
sunken bar area consists of
comfortable white sofas that you
sink into to enjoy an aperitif before
your meal whilst the restaurant
itself is modern and minimalistic.
As for the meal, well put it this
way, it is said we eat with our eyes,
and for me this certainly was
artistic design on a plate. Youll
have to trust me when I say that it
tasted as good as it looked.
The menu consisted largely of
New Zealand staples which were
cooked in a sophisticated manner
to match the surroundings. My
Syrah poached venison dish was
delicious and indulgent, as was the
hazelnut Alaska desert.
My accommodation was just a
short distance away from Elephant
Hill Winery. Clive Colonial

Cottages are handily placed down

the road from the beach and
midway between the areas main
towns of Hastings, Napier and
Havelock North.
The three neatly presented
detached units have their own
kitchen facilities and private decks
on which to relax and enjoy the
tranquil and secluded gardens. I
enjoyed the breakfast provisions
supplied for the first morning of
my stay which included eggs laid
by the Cottages own free ranges
chickens.
The owners Sandra and Neil
encouraged me to help myself to
the copious amounts of fruit
growing in their mini orchard. I
loved picking my own grapefruit in
the morning and cutting some
fresh chives to season my scrambled
eggs.

FARMERS MARKET
As my stay was over a weekend
Sandra recommended I visit the
local Hastings Farmers Market
A u s t r a l i a & N Z | S e p t e m b e r 2 0 16 

33

where to stay
and play

Panoramic views
from Te Mata Peak

DISCOVER HAWKES BAY

Stay

Clive Colonial Cottages

Ideally positioned with easy access to all the
main Hawkes Bay attractions, these selfcontained cottages are immaculate. Named
after native New Zealand birds, Tui and Fantail
are suitable for couples whilst Bellbird can
accommodate up to four. From NZ$145 (78)
per night.
www.clivecolonialcottages.co.nz

The Crown Hotel

Elegantly restored boutique hotel situated in the
historical village of Ahuriri. Rooms are stylish
and overlook the waterfront. From NZ$290
(156) per night.
www.thecrownnapier.co.nz

Play

Gannet Beach Adventures

Where else in the world can you get towed on
the back of a tractor and trailer across a beach
to a bird colony? From NZ$44 (23) per adult.
www.gannets.com

Airplay Paragliding
Offering one-day beginners courses in how to
paraglide down the slopes of Te Mata Peak.
From NZ$220 (118) per person.
www.airplay.co.nz

On Yer Bike Winery Tours

Explore the wineries of Hawkes Bay at a
leisurely pace on two wheels. From NZ$50
(26) per bike.
www.onyerbike.co.nz

Cyclists tackle the

Wineries Ride trail

Hooters

held on a Sunday. Rated by many

as the best open air market in New
Zealand I wasnt left disappointed.
Store holders were selling
gorgeous local Hawkes Bay goods
straight from their gardens. I
strolled around in food heaven
sampling all types of produce; fig
and walnut salami from Te Mata
Figs, olive oil from The Village
Press, organically produced cheese
from Hohepa Hawkes Bay.
One of the highlights was the
stand selling homemade ice-cream
blended with locally grown
blueberries superb.

Enjoy your own vintage chauffeur driven tour of

Napiers highlights in a lovingly restored vintage
car. Vintage City Tour (60 minutes) costs
NZ$180 (97) per car.
www.hooters-hire.co.nz

Hawkes Bay Farmers Market

Held every Sunday at Hastings A&P
Showground this is the place to buy local
Hawkes Bay produce.
www.Hawkesbayfarmersmarket.co.nz

Elephant Hill
Innovative winery set in a spectacular setting
on the Te Awanga Coastline.
www.elephanthill.co.nz

Craggy Range
A premium winery with award winning
restaurant.
www.craggyrange.com

ON TWO WHEELS
Feeling slightly guilty about my
expanded waistline I thought the
best thing for it was to hire a bike
from my accommodation and take
advantage of the 200 kilometres
worth of cycle trails in the area.
There are three main trails - the
Water Ride offers expansive views
of the Pacific Ocean and local

Black Barn Vineyards

Small, exclusive vineyard. Visit their popular
growers markets held Saturday mornings in
summertime.
www.blackbarn.com

34

A u s t r a l i a & N Z | S e p t e m b e r 2 0 16

www.getmedownunder.com

www.getmedownunder.com

wetlands; the Landscapes Ride

takes in some of the small coastal
communities and fantastic scenery,
and finally, the Wineries Ride
covers the world famous wine
growing areas.
I cycled along a stretch of
coastline just outside the small
village of Clive and then headed
inland to follow the path of the
river. All around me were fields
stretching as far as I could see,
laden with grape vines, apple trees,
lemons and limes.
Its no understatement that they
grow a lot of produce around here.
Having worked up quite a sweat
and dodged a few curious cows
who had brazenly found their way
on to the cycle track, I cut across
land towards Havelock North.
This area on the slopes of Te Mata
Peak is prime Hawkes Bay wine
country and home to several
renowned wineries.
Of course no visit to Hawkes
Bay would be complete without

participating in some wine tasting

at one or two cellar doors this is
New Zealands premier wine
region after all so I peddled my
way up the winding driveway to
Black Barn Vineyards.
A small, boutique winery in a
pretty setting, many of the wines
produced here are only available for
purchase at the cellar door. I sat
myself down under their shady tree
lined courtyard and enjoyed a few
of their small wine tasting measures
together with a petite yet decadent
platter of local produce. It was a
truly scrumptious way to spend a
pleasant sunny afternoon.
The most visited place in
Hawkes Bay is the scenic Te Mata
Peak, which forms the backdrop to
the prosperous rural town of
Havelock North. This craggy range
of limestone bluffs rises 399 metres
above sea level and is both dramatic
and beautiful.
The story of Maori legend has it
that the ridge is the body of the
A u s t r a l i a & N Z | S e p t e m b e r 2 0 16 

35

Chief, Rongokako, who choked on

the rock as he tried to eat his way
through the hillside in order to be
allowed to marry the woman he
desired. The drive up the peak is
hair raising to say the least, with its
narrow road twists and turns as you
climb and the vertigo inducing
drops beneath. At the windswept
top the 360 degree panoramic
views are stupendous.
The whole of the Hawkes Bay
region is laid out beneath your feet
and on a clear day you can make
out Mount Ruapehu. There are
several walks in the surrounding
parkland and a downhill mountain
biking trail. The craziest of them
all though seemed to be the
paragliders that I watched jump
fearlessly over the edge. Although
perhaps they werent as crazy as
they seemed as I endured the white
knuckle journey back down the
hillside in my car.
Set in the shadow of Te Mata
Peak, Craggy Range is one of the
loveliest wineries in Hawkes Bay.
Its neat grounds include a lake and
a patchwork of gnarly grape vines.

Vintage cars on show during

Napiers Art Deco Weekend
Visitors get dressed up in
their 1930s vintage glitz

Napier is now regarded as

one of the worlds best
preserved Art Deco cities
The cellar door offers delicious
tastings of its acclaimed wines and
the award winning restaurant
Terrir opens up to a deck with a
breathtaking view. After a wine
tasting I settled on the patio with a
glass of Chardonnay.

ART DECO NAPIER

My final stop in Hawkes Bay was

The seaside
village of Ahuriri

36

A u s t r a l i a & N Z | S e p t e m b e r 2 0 16

the elegant seaside city of Napier.

Napier was hit by a devastating
earthquake in 1931 and the city was
largely obliterated. A decision was
made to rebuild it in the Art Deco
style of the time.
Napier is now regarded as one of
the worlds best preserved Art Deco
cities, alongside Miami Beach in
Florida. Although this might once
not have been the case. There was a
period of neglect, but in the early
1990s the city became recognised
as architecturally important.
Its distinctive buildings are now
protected and lovingly cared for,
offering a real drawcard for visitors.
There is even an Art Deco
Weekend held in February each
year when thousands descend on
the city to dress up and promenade

in 1930s vintage glitz. Guided

walking tours are available around
the city but it is just as easy to
self-guide yourself around with a
map provided by the local tourism
centre.
The Daily Telegraph Building
and Municipal Theatre are two real
masterpieces of the era that
shouldnt be missed. My favourite
though was the National Tobacco
Company Building across town in
the seaside village of Ahuriri.
The elegant and ornate doorway
is patterned with roses and
grapevines. Its lovely rose pink
colour makes it hard to believe that
it was built for industrial purposes.
It is now Napiers Art Deco icon
and is found in many posters
advertising the city.
At the end of my visit to Hawkes
Bay I decided that it is perhaps just
as well that the sun rises first here.
How else would I have found the
time to fit in all the wonderful
wineries, history and scenery that
the Bay has to offer?
www.getmedownunder.com