Beruflich Dokumente
Kultur Dokumente
Energy
Practical concepts
Outline
1
R. Erdlyi
Outline
1
Energy
Equipartition
Group velocity I
Group velocity II
R. Erdlyi
Outline
1
Energy
Equipartition
Group velocity I
Group velocity II
Practical concepts
The Doppler effect
Particle paths in surface waves
Appendix A
R. Erdlyi
Basic concepts
The governing equations for 1D water waves
Monochromatic surface waves
Outline
1
Energy
Equipartition
Group velocity I
Group velocity II
Practical concepts
The Doppler effect
Particle paths in surface waves
Appendix A
R. Erdlyi
Basic concepts
The governing equations for 1D water waves
Monochromatic surface waves
Assumptions: Linearity
We consider waves on the surface of liquids, e.g. waves on
the sea or a lake or a river. These can be generated by the
wind, by a moving boat... One key factor: if the surface is
displaced from its equilibrium position z = 0 to z = (x, y , t),
gravity will tend to restore the surface to its equilibrium position.
Basic concepts
The governing equations for 1D water waves
Monochromatic surface waves
~ 0 = u(x, t)t
OO
R. Erdlyi
Basic concepts
The governing equations for 1D water waves
Monochromatic surface waves
x + u(x, t)t,
(x, t)
(x + ut, t + t).
R. Erdlyi
Basic concepts
The governing equations for 1D water waves
Monochromatic surface waves
x + u(x, t)t,
(x + ut, t + t).
+ (u
+v
+w
+
)t.
x
y
z
t
R. Erdlyi
Basic concepts
The governing equations for 1D water waves
Monochromatic surface waves
D
=
+u
+v
+w
= 0,
Dt
t
x
y
z
(1)
+u
+v
+w
t
x
y
z
.
(2)
R. Erdlyi
Basic concepts
The governing equations for 1D water waves
Monochromatic surface waves
u v
w
+ u
+v
+w
+
+
+
= 0,
t
x
y
z
x
y
z
so from Eq. (1)
R. Erdlyi
Basic concepts
The governing equations for 1D water waves
Monochromatic surface waves
u v
w
+ u
+v
+w
+
+
+
= 0,
t
x
y
z
x
y
z
so from Eq. (1)
u v
w
+
+
=0
x
y
z
(3)
R. Erdlyi
Basic concepts
The governing equations for 1D water waves
Monochromatic surface waves
(u, v , w)
t
+ u
+v
+w
(u, v , w).
x
y
z
Basic concepts
The governing equations for 1D water waves
Monochromatic surface waves
(4)
u w
+
= 0.
x
z
(5)
R. Erdlyi
Basic concepts
The governing equations for 1D water waves
Monochromatic surface waves
Momentum equation
Recalling N2
u
p
w
p
= ,
=
g
t
x
t
z
where can be regarded as constant? , and the term g
represents the weight g V acting vertically downwards.
? This
(6)
R. Erdlyi
Basic concepts
The governing equations for 1D water waves
Monochromatic surface waves
Velocity potential
As in (3.3), it can be shown that, in most circumstances,
there is a velocity potential, such that Eq. (3.13) holds1 . In the
present case = (x, z, t) and
u=
,
x
w=
(7)
To show this is beyond the scope of this course. In brief we require the
effects of viscosity to be small.
R. Erdlyi
Basic concepts
The governing equations for 1D water waves
Monochromatic surface waves
Velocity potential
As in (3.3), it can be shown that, in most circumstances,
there is a velocity potential, such that Eq. (3.13) holds1 . In the
present case = (x, z, t) and
u=
,
x
w=
(7)
(8)
To show this is beyond the scope of this course. In brief we require the
effects of viscosity to be small.
R. Erdlyi
Basic concepts
The governing equations for 1D water waves
Monochromatic surface waves
Velocity potential
As in (3.3), it can be shown that, in most circumstances,
there is a velocity potential, such that Eq. (3.13) holds1 . In the
present case = (x, z, t) and
u=
,
x
w=
(7)
(8)
To show this is beyond the scope of this course. In brief we require the
effects of viscosity to be small.
R. Erdlyi
Basic concepts
The governing equations for 1D water waves
Monochromatic surface waves
Boundary conditions
w=
R. Erdlyi
Basic concepts
The governing equations for 1D water waves
Monochromatic surface waves
Boundary conditions
R. Erdlyi
Basic concepts
The governing equations for 1D water waves
Monochromatic surface waves
Boundary conditions
R. Erdlyi
Basic concepts
The governing equations for 1D water waves
Monochromatic surface waves
Boundary conditions
R. Erdlyi
Basic concepts
The governing equations for 1D water waves
Monochromatic surface waves
Boundary conditions
(1):
= 0,
z
R. Erdlyi
z = h
(9)
Basic concepts
The governing equations for 1D water waves
Monochromatic surface waves
Boundary conditions
(1):
= 0,
z
z = h
(9)
(2):
D
{z (x, t)} = 0
Dt
u
=0
t
x}
| {z
small
at
at
z=
z = .
R. Erdlyi
Basic concepts
The governing equations for 1D water waves
Monochromatic surface waves
Boundary conditions
(1):
= 0,
z
z = h
(9)
(2):
D
{z (x, t)} = 0
Dt
u
=0
t
x}
| {z
small
at
at
z=
z = .
=
at z = 0.
(10)
t
z
R. Erdlyi
Basic concepts
The governing equations for 1D water waves
Monochromatic surface waves
Boundary conditions
(3) : Eq. (6)
p p0
p
0
+ =
+ + gz = 0
x
p p0
+
+ gz
depends only on t.
+ g = 0
t
R. Erdlyi
at z = 0.
Surface Waves in Fluids
(11)
Basic concepts
The governing equations for 1D water waves
Monochromatic surface waves
Monochromatic waves
Monochromatic single wave number k , single (angular)
frequency . We assume the free surface is given by
(12)
Eq. (12b) has already been used several times, e.g. Eq. (2.28).
Note:
We could also work with the complex form Eq. (1.27), viz.
= 0 ei(kxt) .
R. Erdlyi
Basic concepts
The governing equations for 1D water waves
Monochromatic surface waves
Applying BCs
In order to satisfy Eqs. (10) and (11) we must have
= f (z) cos(kx t)
where Eq. (8)
R. Erdlyi
(13)
Basic concepts
The governing equations for 1D water waves
Monochromatic surface waves
Applying BCs
In order to satisfy Eqs. (10) and (11) we must have
= f (z) cos(kx t)
(13)
f 00 = k 2 f .
(14)
R. Erdlyi
Basic concepts
The governing equations for 1D water waves
Monochromatic surface waves
Applying BCs
In order to satisfy Eqs. (10) and (11) we must have
= f (z) cos(kx t)
(13)
f 00 = k 2 f .
(14)
R. Erdlyi
Basic concepts
The governing equations for 1D water waves
Monochromatic surface waves
Applying BCs
In order to satisfy Eqs. (10) and (11) we must have
= f (z) cos(kx t)
(13)
f 00 = k 2 f .
(14)
(15)
Basic concepts
The governing equations for 1D water waves
Monochromatic surface waves
R. Erdlyi
Basic concepts
The governing equations for 1D water waves
Monochromatic surface waves
= e2kh .
Thus
R. Erdlyi
Basic concepts
The governing equations for 1D water waves
Monochromatic surface waves
= e2kh .
Thus
f
with
A = 2ekh .]
R. Erdlyi
Basic concepts
The governing equations for 1D water waves
Monochromatic surface waves
DR and solution
There remain Eqs. (10) and (11).
From Eq. (10)
R. Erdlyi
Basic concepts
The governing equations for 1D water waves
Monochromatic surface waves
DR and solution
There remain Eqs. (10) and (11).
From Eq. (10)
0 cos(kx t) = kA sinh kh cos(kx t)
R. Erdlyi
Basic concepts
The governing equations for 1D water waves
Monochromatic surface waves
DR and solution
There remain Eqs. (10) and (11).
From Eq. (10)
0 cos(kx t) = kA sinh kh cos(kx t)
0 = kA sinh kh
(A)
R. Erdlyi
Basic concepts
The governing equations for 1D water waves
Monochromatic surface waves
DR and solution
There remain Eqs. (10) and (11).
From Eq. (10)
0 cos(kx t) = kA sinh kh cos(kx t)
0 = kA sinh kh
(A)
R. Erdlyi
Basic concepts
The governing equations for 1D water waves
Monochromatic surface waves
DR and solution
There remain Eqs. (10) and (11).
From Eq. (10)
0 cos(kx t) = kA sinh kh cos(kx t)
0 = kA sinh kh
(A)
g0 = A cosh kh
(B)
Then (A)/(B)
R. Erdlyi
Basic concepts
The governing equations for 1D water waves
Monochromatic surface waves
DR and solution
k
= tanh kh
g
2 = gk tanh kh,
and
=
c2 =
g
tanh kh
k
g0 cosh k (z + h)
cos(kx t).
cosh kh
R. Erdlyi
(16)
(17)
Basic concepts
The governing equations for 1D water waves
Monochromatic surface waves
DR and solution
k
= tanh kh
g
2 = gk tanh kh,
and
=
c2 =
g
tanh kh
k
g0 cosh k (z + h)
cos(kx t).
cosh kh
(16)
(17)
R. Erdlyi
Basic concepts
The governing equations for 1D water waves
Monochromatic surface waves
DR and solution
k
= tanh kh
g
2 = gk tanh kh,
and
=
c2 =
g
tanh kh
k
g0 cosh k (z + h)
cos(kx t).
cosh kh
(16)
(17)
Basic concepts
The governing equations for 1D water waves
Monochromatic surface waves
Deep water h ,
(19a)
Shallow water kh 1,
(19b)
R. Erdlyi
Basic concepts
The governing equations for 1D water waves
Monochromatic surface waves
Deep water h ,
2 = gk ,
c2 =
Shallow water kh 1,
R. Erdlyi
g
k
(19a)
(19b)
Basic concepts
The governing equations for 1D water waves
Monochromatic surface waves
2 = gk ,
c2 =
Note:
R. Erdlyi
(19a)
(19b)
Basic concepts
The governing equations for 1D water waves
Monochromatic surface waves
2 = gk ,
c2 =
Note:
Shallow water waves are not dispersive.
R. Erdlyi
(19a)
(19b)
Basic concepts
The governing equations for 1D water waves
Monochromatic surface waves
2 = gk ,
c2 =
(19a)
(19b)
Note:
Shallow water waves are not dispersive.
This is a progressive wave, but standing waves can be
dealt with similarly - see S4 Q3.
R. Erdlyi
Equipartition
Group velocity I
Group velocity II
Outline
1
Energy
Equipartition
Group velocity I
Group velocity II
Practical concepts
The Doppler effect
Particle paths in surface waves
Appendix A
R. Erdlyi
Equipartition
Group velocity I
Group velocity II
Potential energy
The PE relative to the the undisturbed position is
Z
gzdz A =
0
R. Erdlyi
Equipartition
Group velocity I
Group velocity II
Potential energy
The PE relative to the the undisturbed position is
Z
1
gzdz A = g 2 A.
2
0
Thus the PE in a wavelength per unit width in the direction of
0y is V , where using Eq. (12) results in
Z 2/k
1
2
V = go
sin2 k (x ct)dx
2
0
This is
R. Erdlyi
Equipartition
Group velocity I
Group velocity II
Potential energy
The PE relative to the the undisturbed position is
Z
1
gzdz A = g 2 A.
2
0
Thus the PE in a wavelength per unit width in the direction of
0y is V , where using Eq. (12) results in
Z 2/k
1
2
V = go
sin2 k (x ct)dx
2
0
This is
1
1
g02 = g02 ,
2
k
4
2
where = k is the wavelength. Thus the potential energy
density per unit area of water surface is V = V /.
V =
R. Erdlyi
1
g02
4
Surface Waves in Fluids
(20a)
Equipartition
Group velocity I
Group velocity II
Kinetic energy
Likewise the KE in a wavelength per unit width in the direction
of 0y is T , where
Z 0
Z 2/k " 2 2 #
1
+
dx
dz
T =
2 h
x
z
0
Here
2
2
g 2 02 k 2
2 cosh2 kh
and
g 2 02 k 2
2 cosh2 kh
R. Erdlyi
Equipartition
Group velocity I
Group velocity II
Kinetic energy
Since (as with V )
Z
2/k
sin2 k (x ct)dx =
2/k
cos2 k (x ct)dx =
we find
g 2 02 k
T =
2 2 cosh2 kh
cosh 2k (z + h)dz,
h
g 2 02
g 2 02
sinh
2kh
=
tanh kh
4 2 cosh2 kh
2 2
,
k
Equipartition
Group velocity I
Group velocity II
Kinetic energy
from Eq. (16),
1
1
g02 = g02 = V .
2
k
4
the kinetic energy density per unit area of the water surface
is T = T /
T =
T =
1
g02 .
4
Note:
R. Erdlyi
(20b)
Equipartition
Group velocity I
Group velocity II
Kinetic energy
from Eq. (16),
1
1
g02 = g02 = V .
2
k
4
the kinetic energy density per unit area of the water surface
is T = T /
T =
T =
1
g02 .
4
(20b)
Note:
The kinetic energy density per unit area (T ) of the water
surface wave is equal to the potential energy density per unit
area (V ).
R. Erdlyi
Equipartition
Group velocity I
Group velocity II
Equipartition
Group velocity I
Group velocity II
pu dz =
p0
gz
dz,
P =
t
x
h
h
Z
since p = p0
t gz from derivation of Eq. (11).
It is sufficient for our purposes to calculate the mean of P over
one period.
Since the mean of sin k (x ct) is
R. Erdlyi
Equipartition
Group velocity I
Group velocity II
pu dz =
p0
gz
dz,
P =
t
x
h
h
Z
since p = p0
t gz from derivation of Eq. (11).
It is sufficient for our purposes to calculate the mean of P over
one period.
Since the mean of sin k (x ct) is 0, and the mean of
sin2 k (x ct) =
R. Erdlyi
Equipartition
Group velocity I
Group velocity II
pu dz =
p0
gz
dz,
P =
t
x
h
h
Z
since p = p0
t gz from derivation of Eq. (11).
It is sufficient for our purposes to calculate the mean of P over
one period.
Since the mean of sin k (x ct) is 0, and the mean of
sin2 k (x ct) = 12 , we let P be the mean of P and find:
P=
g 2 02 k
2 cosh2 kh
cosh2 k (z + h)dz
Equipartition
Group velocity I
Group velocity II
P =
g 2 02
sinh 2kh
h+
2k
4c cosh2 kh
g 2 02
2kh
1+
2 tanh kh
8kc
sinh 2kh
R. Erdlyi
(21)
Equipartition
Group velocity I
Group velocity II
R. Erdlyi
Equipartition
Group velocity I
Group velocity II
1
U = P/(V + T ) = P/( g02 ),
2
i.e.
2kh
1
U = cg = c 1 +
2
sinh 2kh
where
cg is known as the group velocity for reasons that will be
discussed later.
R. Erdlyi
(22)
Equipartition
Group velocity I
Group velocity II
DR group velocity
From the first of Eq. (16), we have
2
(since
d
d (tanh )
d
dk
d
gkh
= g tanh kh +
dk
cosh2 kh
= sech 2 =
1
).
cosh2
Thus
g tanh kh
kh
1+
2
tanh kh cosh2 kh
kc 2
2kh
1+
,
2
sinh 2kh
Equipartition
Group velocity I
Group velocity II
d
.
dk
R. Erdlyi
(23)
Equipartition
Group velocity I
Group velocity II
d
.
dk
(23)
(24)
Equipartition
Group velocity I
Group velocity II
R. Erdlyi
Equipartition
Group velocity I
Group velocity II
= gk ,
g
c = ,
k
2
1
cg =
2
g
1
= c
k
2
(25a)
Shallow water kh 1
(25b)
R. Erdlyi
Equipartition
Group velocity I
Group velocity II
= gk ,
g
c = ,
k
2
1
cg =
2
g
1
= c
k
2
(25a)
p
gh = c
(25b)
Shallow water kh 1
2 gk 2 h,
c 2 = gh,
R. Erdlyi
cg =
Equipartition
Group velocity I
Group velocity II
R. Erdlyi
Equipartition
Group velocity I
Group velocity II
t)
cos k (x
2
k
R. Erdlyi
Equipartition
Group velocity I
Group velocity II
cg
(26)
k
Equipartition
Group velocity I
Group velocity II
R. Erdlyi
Equipartition
Group velocity I
Group velocity II
R. Erdlyi
Equipartition
Group velocity I
Group velocity II
2 (k k )2
0
(x, t) = A
ed
2 (k k )2
0
ei(kxt) dk ,
R. Erdlyi
(27)
Equipartition
Group velocity I
Group velocity II
= (k0 ) +
d
(k k0 ) + . . .
dk
0 + cg (k k0 ) + . . .
R. Erdlyi
Equipartition
Group velocity I
Group velocity II
= (k0 ) +
d
(k k0 ) + . . .
dk
0 + cg (k k0 ) + . . .
Equipartition
Group velocity I
Group velocity II
= (k0 ) +
d
(k k0 ) + . . .
dk
0 + cg (k k0 ) + . . .
(x, t) = Ae
e{ 2d (xcg t)} e
R. Erdlyi
(xcg t)2
4d 2
d
d
Equipartition
Group velocity I
Group velocity II
Now substitute =
i
2d (x
cg t) to get
(x, t) =
(28)
R. Erdlyi
Equipartition
Group velocity I
Group velocity II
Now substitute =
(x, t) =
i
2d (x
cg t) to get
e d
Now
Z
e d =
R. Erdlyi
(28)
Equipartition
Group velocity I
Group velocity II
Now substitute =
(x, t) =
i
2d (x
cg t) to get
e d
Now
Z
e d =
R. Erdlyi
(28)
Equipartition
Group velocity I
Group velocity II
I =
ex =
R. Erdlyi
ey
Equipartition
Group velocity I
Group velocity II
=
0
ex ey dxdy
er rdr
R. Erdlyi
Equipartition
Group velocity I
Group velocity II
=
0
ex ey dxdy
er rdr
Z
= 2
r er =
R. Erdlyi
Equipartition
Group velocity I
Group velocity II
=
0
ex ey dxdy
er rdr
1 2
= 2 er
2
R. Erdlyi
= 2
re
r 2
=
0
Equipartition
Group velocity I
Group velocity II
1 2
= 2 er
2
R. Erdlyi
= 2
er rdr
I =
ex ey dxdy
re
r 2
=
0
Equipartition
Group velocity I
Group velocity II
2
A (xcg2t) i(k0 x0 t)
e 4d e
d
R. Erdlyi
(29)
Outline
1
Energy
Equipartition
Group velocity I
Group velocity II
Practical concepts
The Doppler effect
Particle paths in surface waves
Appendix A
R. Erdlyi
,
2
2
,
k
c =
(30)
But not logical since it is more relevant to sound waves and radio waves
than to surface waves than to surface waves on water!
R. Erdlyi
0 =
0 = (1
u
)
c
(31)
c
cu
(32)
R. Erdlyi
,
1 uc
257 =
R. Erdlyi
1+
u
c
1+
281
=
257
1
u
c
u
c
u
24
=
c
538
,
1 uc
257 =
1+
u
c
1+
281
=
257
1
u
R. Erdlyi
u
c
u
c
u
24
=
c
538
,
1 uc
257 =
1+
u
c
u 14.7 m s1
R. Erdlyi
1+
281
=
257
1
(About
u
c
u
c
33 mph)
dX
dt
x
x
(x0 +X ,z0 +Z )
(x0 ,z0 )
(33)
dX
dt
x
x
(x0 +X ,z0 +Z )
(x0 ,z0 )
(33)
dX
dt
x
x
(x0 +X ,z0 +Z )
=
dZ
dt
(x0 ,z0 )
z
z
(x0 +X ,z0 +Z )
(x0 ,z0 )
=
using Eq. (17).
R. Erdlyi
(33)
dX
dt
x
x
(x0 +X ,z0 +Z )
=
dZ
dt
z
z
(x0 +X ,z0 +Z )
(x0 ,z0 )
(x0 ,z0 )
(33)
(34)
Z
= 0
cosh k (z0 + h)
cos(kx0 t)
sinh kh
(34)
= 0
cosh k (z0 + h)
cos(kx0 t)
sinh kh
(34)
R. Erdlyi
Z2
b2
= 1 where
(35)
Summary:
R. Erdlyi
Z2
b2
= 1 where
(35)
Summary:
1
R. Erdlyi
Z2
b2
= 1 where
(35)
Summary:
1
R. Erdlyi
Group velocity
R. Erdlyi