H

* llVICE BULLED
VOL.

February 1928

No. 2

"MODEL A"
Serviced Completely by Ford Dealers
Have your salesmen sell your Service when
delivering a car or truck.
Take customers through your shop, showing
them your equipment and cleanliness of shop
as well as workmen.
Tell them how your men have been trained
for servicing model "A" cars and trucks.
Advise them that you are prepared to service
the model "A" Speedometer, Shock Absorbers,
Windshield Wiper, Horn and Lighting Switch.
Emphasize the necessity of regular greasing
and point out the equipment you have installed
for doing this work.
Show them the parts stock you are carrying
for their benefit and emphasize the necessity
of using genuine Ford parts when repairs are
required.
Jht
BY FORD MOTOR CO.
All rights reserved.

ifvfiUwti'&l

H??.

PAGE 218

FORD SERVICE BULLETIN

for February

Service Information
Wrist pins are assembled in the pistons with
a metal to metal fit. When properly selected
the pin can be pushed into the piston with a
slight pressure of the hand.

make certain that cylinder head nuts on all

new cars are pulled down tightly, particularly
the cylinder head nut which holds down the
ignition lock conduit.

. Wrist
pins are selected to give a clearance of
.0005;/ in the connecting rod.

The shock absorber clamp bolt nut must be

kept securely tightened at all times. Make
this a part of your regular inspection.

The upper end of the connecting rod has

.040" total side play between the wrist pin
bosses in the piston.
The lower end of the connecting rod has
.008" to .012 " end play on the crankshaft.
Time gears are fitted with a back lash of not
less than .003" or more than .005".
Main bearings in cylinder block are line
reamed .001" larger than the diameter of the
crankshaft main bearings.
Crankshafts are fitted with an end clearance
of .004" to .007".
Always make sure when fitting or indicating
surfaces that the surfaces are absolutely free
from dirt or foreign mattereven a small
particle of dirt destroys alignment.

When connecting the ball end of the front

radius rod to the clutch housing, it is very
important that the ball cap bolt sleeve (A3435) is in place on both radius rod ball cap
bolts. The sleeves prevent the ball cap springs
being fully compressed when the ball cap nuts
are tightened. If the sleeves are rfot in place,
the radius rod ball will be clamped solidly
between the ball caps, thus preventing it from
having its natural motion with the action of
the front springs. This condition throws a
heavy strain on the end of the rod where the
ball is attached and may cause a fracture at
that point.
The front radius rod is connected to the
clutch housing as follows: Slip radius rod ball
socket over ends of ball cap bolts. Place a
little cup grease on radius rod ball and insert
ball into ball socket. Place bolt sleeves over
ends of ball cap bolts and position ball cap
over sleeves and against ball. Next insert the
two ball cap springs over the sleeves and run
down the two ball cap nuts sufficiently far to
permit locking them in place with cotter keys.

After installing a flywheel housing, always

check the rear and the counterbored faces of the
housing to see that they are in alignment with
the face of the crankshaft flange. An indicator
Tires are marked with a red dot on the red
is used for this purpose.* If either the inner or guide line. When placing tube in tire the
counterbored face of the housing is out of valve stem must be placed at the point marked
alignment with the crankshaft flange more with the red dot. This insures the tire
than .006", insert a .010" shim (A-6400) between being properly balanced on the wheel.
cylinder block and both the upper bosses on flywheel housing. If this fails to draw the housing
The cotter pin in the drain hole in the flyinto correct alignment, install a new housing.
wheel housing is placed there to prevent the
hole becoming clogged. The movement of the
After installing aflywheelalways check it for pin prevents any possibility of dirt or other
eccentricity and wobble. An indicator is used for foreign matter plugging up the hole.
this purpose.* Both the rear face of the large
diameter and the rear hub of theflywheelmust
Correction
be checked. If either the hub or the face of
the flywheel
are
eccentric
or
wobble
more
than
Due to a typographical error on page 203
.005;/, a new flywheel should be installed.
of the January Bulletin it was stated under
the heading of Adjusting Clutch Pedal ClearAlways disconnect the battery cable before ance that "screwing the rod in increases the
removing the gasoline gauge or disconnecting clutch pedal movement." This should have
any wires on the back of the instrument panel. read "screwing the rod in decreases the clutch
pedal movement; screwing the rod out inTo prevent any possibility of a water leak creases it." (Seefig.449 in this issue of the
developing between cylinder head and block, Bulletin.)
* Special indicating dial gauges for checking both the flywheel and flywheel housing can be obtained
from K. R. Wilson, Buffalo, N. Y.

FORD SERVICE BULLETIN

for February

PAGE 2 1 9

CLEAN CARBON AND GRIND VALVES

FIG.

445

Disconnect spark plug connectors and lift

off distributor cap and body.
Screw off all cylinder head nuts. Loosen
distributor set screw nut "C" and back out
set screw until distributor base can be lifted off.
Pull radiator slightly forward and lift off
cylinder head complete with water pump and
fan assembly. Cylinder head gasket can then
Grinding Valves
be slipped off over ends of studs.
Drain water.
Screw out oil return pipe bolt upper "E,"
and loosen the lower bolt. Push pipe out of
Loosen radiator stay rods at radiator.
Pull radiator slightly forward and lift off hood. way so that valve chamber cover can be removed.
Unhook spark and throttle rods. (See "A,"
As a quantity of oil is always standing in the
fig. 445.) These rods are connected with ball
and socket joints and are disconnected by valve compartment it is a good plan to place
holding the rod stationary, and pulling back a drain pan under the rear end of the right
hand engine pan before removing valve
on the cap.
Disconnect carburetor adjusting rod " B " at chamber cover.
Screw out the 10 valve chamber cover bolts
carburetor and pull rod back into front compartment. Do not misplace locking sleeve and lift off cover "F."
spring and washer which will drop off when
With a valve lifter compress the valve
adjusting rod is pulled back.
springs until the valve spring seat retainers
Shut off gas and disconnect fuel line at can be withdrawn (seefig.446).* It is not
necessary to remove the valve springs. When
sediment bulb.
Remove carburetor by screwing out the two compressing the springs the valve lifter is
inserted between the lower coils of the spring.
carburetor to intake manifold bolts "D."
Remove fan belt by loosening the generator
Next lift up the valves as far as they will
arm stud nut and generator support to engine go and carefully examine both the valve seats
bolt and pulling generator towards engine as and the beveled face of the valves. If the
far as it will go. Fan belt can then be removed valves and seats do not require refacing or
reseating, the valves can be ground in without
from fan.

The all steel valves used in the Model "A"

engine are accurately ground in at the factory.
They form an ideal seat in the cast iron block,
consequently they should require no further
attention for some time.
When it does become necessary to grind
the valves, proceed as follows:

* Valve lifters for the Model " A" can be obtained from K. R. Wilson, Buffalo, N . Y.

PAGE

220

FORD SERVICE BULLETIN

FIG.

removing the valve guide bushings. As the

tops of the valves are machined smooth, it is
necessary to use a vacuum cup type valve
grinder (see fig. 447).* The grinder holds the
valve by suction. Extreme care must be used
to prevent any carbon or grinding compound
getting into the valve guide bushings; also
make sure that all compound is removed from
valves and valve seats when the grinding
operation is completed.
Should the valves require refacing or the
valve seats need reseating, it will be necessary
to remove the valve guide bushings in order
to withdraw the valves. To remove the bushings lift out the valve springs; the bushings
can then be withdrawn through the valve
chamber. If the guides bind in the cylinder
block they can be removed by tapping them
out with a brass rod inserted through the
valve opening in the face of the block.
After the refacing or reseating operation is
completed, replace the valves and insert the
valve guides into the cylinder block. The
valves should then be lightly ground in to
insure a perfect seat. After grinding, always
check the clearance between valves and push
rods; a thickness gauge is used for this purpose. The clearance should be not less than
.013" or more than .015". The gap must be

for

February

446
measured with the push rod on the heel of the
cam.
Next replace the valve springs, valve
chamber cover, cylinder head, etc., making
sure to close drain cock and refill radiator.

FIG.

447

Vacuum type valve grinders can be obtained from Ford Branches.

FORD SERVICE, BULLETIN

for February

PAGE 2 2 1

Clutch pilot
bearing felt
and retainer

Clutch spring
Clutch shaft
Inspection plate
Release bearing
lubricator

Clutch pilot
bearing

Release
bearing
Driven disc
stud nuts

rank shaft
Clutch nut
Disc drum

Release fork
wheel
Fly wheel
ring gear

Driven discs
Radius rod ball wick
FIG.

448

THE CLUTCH
The Model "A" clutch is of the multiple
disc dry plate type. There are nine steel discs.
Four discs, known as the driving discs, have
an asbestos composition facing riveted to each
side. These discs alternate with five discs of
saw blade steel known as the driven discs.
The driving discs have teeth in the outer
diameter, meshing with and sliding in the internal teeth in theflywheel.
The driven discs have teeth on the inner
diameter meshing with, and sliding on, corresponding teeth in the clutch disc drum. The
drum is splined to the clutch shaft and held in
place with a castle nut and cotter pin.
When the clutch is engaged the coil spring
firmly presses the two sets of discs together so
that they revolve as a single unit with the flywheel and transmit the power from the engine
through the transmission.

Depressing the clutch pedal releases the

spring pressure on the plates, which in turn
disconnects the engine from the transmission.

Causes of Premature Clutch Wear

Resting foot on clutch pedal while driving.
Although unnoticed this may release the
clutch spring pressure just enough to permit
the clutch to slip, and cause needless wear of
the clutch release bearing and the clutch disc
facings. Continual slipping of the clutch is
likely to result in buckled or warped clutch
plates.
Another cause of clutch wear is lack of clearance or play in the clutch pedal. That is, when
the clutch pedal is depressed, there must be
about %" movement of the pedal before it
starts to disengage the clutch. As the clutch
facings wear, this clearance or play gradually

PAGE 2 2 2

FORD

SERVICE

BULLETIN

for

February

FIG.

FIG.

449

becomes less. Consequently it should occasionally be checked. Under no circumstances

should the car be driven without clearance or
play in the clutch pedal. The adjustment can
be easily made by removing the clevis pin
(see "A"fig.449) and turning the release arm
rod "B". Screwing the rod out increases the
clutch pedal movement. Screwing the rod in
decreases the movement. After making adjustment replace clevis pin and cotter key.

Indications of Clutch Wear

Engine races but car does not pick up speed
when shifting gears or when engine is suddenly
accelerated.
Clutch pedal adjustment used up. When
the clutch release rod has been turned out as
far as it will go in making previous adjustments it will be necessary to install new discs.

450

block of wood under both ends of the spring

facilitates removal of the hangers.
Disconnect rear brake rods at cross shafts.
Take out mat and floor boards and remove
battery.
Disconnect speedometer cable at speedometer drive cap, see'' A "fig.451. (Never bend
cable in a radius smaller than 7".)
Lift up rear end of car with chain falls and
lifting hooks.
Screw out the six universal joint housing
cap to transmission bolts and nuts "B" and the
four universal joint housing cap bolts and nuts
"C." Fig. 451. The upper and lower half of
the universal joint housing cap can now be
removed and the rear axle assembly withdrawn
from underneath car.
Lift off universal joint housing cap inner.
Disconnect front radius rod from bottom of
clutch housing by withdrawing cotter keys
and screwing off the two bolt cap nuts.

Clutch Overhaul
To remove the clutch it is first necessary to
remove the rear axle assembly.
To remove axle assembly proceed as follows:
Disconnect shock absorbers by removing
nut and withdrawing shock absorber arm
clamp bolt (see "A"fig.450). Shock absorber
arm can then be withdrawn from assembly.
Remove spring hangers by screwing off nuts
on ends of hangers and tapping the hangers
out with a hammer and drift. Placing a

FIG.

451

FORD SERVICE BULLETIN

F I G . 452

Disconnect stop light switch (see "A" fig.

452).
Remove gear shifter housing by screwing
out the six gear shifter housing screws (see "B"
fig. 452).
Screw out the 11 clutch housing screws.
By grasping the pedals and pulling backward, the clutch can be withdrawn from the
flywheel and the clutch assembly lowered to
the floor.

Disassembling Clutch from

Transmission
Remove cotter pin and screw off clutch
shaft nut. Clutch can then be withdrawn
from clutch shaft (see fig. 454). To prevent
the shaft from turning when screwing off the
clutch nut, lock the transmission gears (see

for February

PAGE

FIG. 454

fig. 453). This can be done by meshing the

high and intermediate sliding gear with transmission main drive gear, and the low and reverse sliding gear with reverse idler gear. If
the clutch binds on the shaft when it is being
withdrawn, push the clutch pedal clear down.

Disassembling

Clutch

Place clutch on clutch fixture and screw

wing nut down until clutch spring tension is
relieved.* Next screw off the five clutch
driven disc stud nuts (see "A" fig. 455)
then back off wing nut on fixture. Clutch thrust
bearing hub and spring can now be lifted off.
By lightly dropping the threaded end of the
fixture on a bench, the clutch plates and discs
can be removed (seefig.456), with the excep-

FIG. 453
FIG. 455
* Clutch fixture can be obtained from K. R. Wilson, Buffalo, N. Y.

223

PAGE 2 24

FORD SERVICE BULLETIN

for February

FIG.

458

plate which prevents a clattering or clicking

noise when engine is idling.
F I G . 456
After installing the rear driving disc over
the clutch disc drum place a smooth disc next
tion of the rear driven disc which is a tight fit to it, then alternate with a lined and a smooth
on the drum and usually lasts the life of the car. disc, finishing with a lined disc.
The driven disc and stud assembly is next
inserted through the clutch disc (seefig.458)
Assembling Clutch
the teeth in the disc and stud assembly meshAfter making certain that all of the parts ing with the teeth in the drum.
are thoroughly clean, place the rear driving disc
Place clutch in fixture with studs pointing
over the clutch disc drum (the rear driven disc upward making sure that the guides on the
being in place on the drum). The rear driv- fixture mesh with the teeth in the clutch discs.
ing disc must be a snug slidingfiton the interPosition clutch spring and thrust bearing
nal teeth in the flywheel (.002" clearance). hub over threaded shaft on clutchfixtureand
This disc is easily identified as it has a saw compress spring by tightening wing nut on
slot in one tooth (see "A"fig.457). The reason fixture (seefig.459) and replace the 5 clutch
the rear driving disc can be a snug slidingfitin driven disc stud lock washers and nuts.
the flywheel is that when the clutch is released
il oprn^ from tin* front vnd. consequently the
rear (UM- movi^ \ n \ linli* ami a( N a- a

FIG.

457

FIG.

459

FORD SERVICE BULLETIN

for February

PAGE 225

Installing Clutch In Car

Before installing the clutch make certain
that the internal teeth in the flywheel are
thoroughly clean. This is absolutely necessary
in order to insure proper clutch action.
To hold the radius rod out of the way when
installing clutch housing, insert a block of
wood between radius rod and bottom of fly
wheel housing.
Before replacing the clutch see that the
pilot bearing in the flywheel is well lubricated.
This bearing should be packed with a good
grade of cup grease.
The clutch assembly is installed by lining
up the clutch housing with the flywheel housing and meshing the teeth in the clutch with
the teeth in the flywheel.
The clutch housing is bolted to the flywheel
housing by means of the 11 clutch housing
screws.
The clutch should now be checked to make
certain that it is properly installed. This can
be done by removing the inspection plate in
the clutch housing, pressing the clutch pedal
all the way down and with a pencil or other
small object pressing in on the rear clutch disc
(the one with the slotted tooth) to make certain that it is not binding on the internal teeth
in the flywheel.
Connect speedometer cable at speedometer
drive cap.
The radius rod is next connected to the
bottom of the clutch housing as follows. Make
sure radius rod ball socket is in place. Place
a little cup grease on radius rod ball and insert
it into ball socket. Place bolt sleeves over
ends of ball cap bolts and position ball cap over
sleeves and against ball. Next insert the two
ball cap springs over the sleeves and run down
the two ball cap nuts just far enough to permit
locking them in place with cotter keys.
Next, insert universal joint housing cap
inner, over universal joint, making sure to
place ball cap gasket on both sides of cap.
Position axle assembly underneath car and
insert drive shaft into universal joint.
Place upper half of universal joint housing
capouter, over universal joint housing.
Make certain that the equalizer beam is in
place and the balls on the equalizer beam
and the ends of the cross shafts are thoroughly
greased, also that the brake cross shaft socket
springs (see "A" fig. 460) are in the ends of the

FIG.

460

brake cross shaft assemblies. Next position the

lower half of the universal joint housing cap
outer, over universal joint housing.
Install the four bolts, nuts and lock washers
which hold the upper and lower half of the
universal joint cap together, then install the
six bolts, nuts and cotter keys which hold the
universal joint housing cap to transmission
housing.
Before installing the gear shift housing see
that the gear shift housing gasket is positioned
on the transmission case, the gear shift lever
is in neutral position and that the transmis-

FIG.

461

PAGE 226

FORD SERVICE B U L L E T IN

FIG.

sion gears on the main transmission gear shaft

are spaced so that the gear shifter forks line up
with the collars (see "A" fig. 461). Position
stop light switch on gear shift housing and bolt
housing to transmission case by means of the
six gear shift housing screws and lock washers.

for February

462

WINDSHIELD

All Model "A" cars are equipped with

shatter-proof glass windshields. These windshields are made up of two layers of glass and
a center layer of plastic material, all of which
are thoroughly cemented together under
After installing switch be sure to replace the heavy pressure while hot. This results in a
stop light switch to brake pedal link. Next laminated structure of great strength, as comconnect brake pedal to equalizer shaft rod
assembly, to brake pedal, with clevis pin and pared to ordinary glass.
cotter key.
This Safety Glass will not shatter. This is
due
to the positive adhesion of the plastic
Replace rear spring hangers and bars, placcenter
layer to every square inch of glass on
ing blocks of wood under the ends of the
either
side.
The black seal around the edges
springs (see "A"fig.462) and using a spring
compressor to compress the spring sufficiently of the glass prevents deterioration of this
to insert the hangers*; after inserting the plastic material and it is important not to
hangers through spring and perch place spring break this seal.
hanger bars over ends of hangers and screw
When installing shatter proof glass in windon the spring hanger nuts locking the nuts shield frames only a few precautions are neceswith cotter pins. Remove the two blocks of sary, but these are important:
wood and spring compressor.
1. Do not pinch the edges in metal.
Connect shock absorber arm to shock
2.
Do not grind off the black seal around
absorber assembly. Insert clamp bolt through
edges.
end of arm; start nut on bolt, drawing the
nut down very tightly. The nut is then
3. Use canvas back cork strip, do not use
locked with a cotter key.
rubber cement.
4. Do not drill. This exposes the center
See that the pedals are well lubricated and
plastic layer and it will deteriorate.
that the clutch pedal has about %" movement before it starts to disengage the clutch.
5. To clean use water, dry and polish with
chamois.
Replace battery, floor boards and mat.
* Spring compressor can be obtained from K. R. Wilson, Buffalo, N. Y.

FORD SERVICE B U L L E T I N

FIG.

THE HORN
The quality of tone and length of service
received from Ford horns depends entirely on
the care they receive.
To produce the most effective tone it is
necessary that the armature revolve at a high
rate of speed. This speed is possible only
when bearings are properly oiled, and the
commutator and brushes are kept clean.

Lubrication
Once a month remove motor cover located
at rear of horn and place a few drops of oil
in groove at each end of the armature shaft.
See U B"fig.463. Use light fine oil.

Care
To clean the commutator, set the motor in
motion by pressing the horn button. While
motor is revolving hold a piece of fine sandpaper against commutator until commutator
is clean.
Next, with a small piece of wood clean the
gaps between the commutator segments. Do
not use metal when cleaning gaps.
When turned with the fingers, the armature
should revolve freely. Should it fail to oper-

for February

PAGE 227

463
ate examine the battery, the wiring, and the
horn button.

Adjustment
Turning the adjusting screw (see " A " ,
fig. 463), regulates the tone.
Turning the screw to the right tightens the
adjustment. Turning to the left loosens it.
Regulate the adjustment until the desired
tone is obtained.

MODEL "A" CAPACITIES

Cooling system3 gallons.
Gasoline tank10 gallons.
Engine oil pan5 quarts.
Transmission1 pint.
Rear axle\}4 pints.
Steering gear7^ ounces.
When changing the oil in the engine pan,
the new oil can be poured through the breather
pipe more rapidly and will not bubble over
if the oil level indicator is withdrawn.
When replacing the indicator be sure that
both the short and long ends of the indicator
enter the opening in the crankcase, and that
the indicator is pushed down as far as it will
go. Failure to insert both ends into opening,
permits oil to splash out.

PAGE 2 2 8

FORD SERVICE BULLETIN

for February

FIG. 465
FIG.

464

MODEL "A" TIRE COVER

New Design Cover Matches Up With
Attractive Appearance of Car
An excellent source of revenue is offered in
the new standard shell type tire cover for
the Model "A" car which is now available
through Branches at a list price of $2.00 subject to dealers' usual discount.
The new design cover carries only the Ford
standard emblem. This eliminates the objectionable appearance of covers carrying firm
names and addresses which have little or no
advertising value and which detract from the
appearance of the car.
The new cover makes an unusually attractive appearance. ' It is made of heavy
grade rubber coated drill having a fine pebble
grain finish and is equipped with a special
adjusting tension wire. Loosening the wire
permits the cover to be quickly removed or
installed. Tightening the wire adjusts the
cover so that it presents a smooth even appearance. When the proper adjustment is
obtained the wire is locked by tightening the
thumb nut shown at "A" figure 464.
A drain hole is provided for draining off any
water which may work in between tire and
cover.

TIME GEARS MUST BE MESHED

ACCORDING TO MARKS
When installing time gears always make
sure that the tooth marked Ford on the small
time gear meshes between the two teeth on
the large time gear at the point where the
gear is marked with a slight indentation (see
Fig. 465).

ALL ENGINE NUMBERS PREFIXED WITH LETTER "A11 ONLY

The only distinction between engines used
in either the Model "A" car or "AA" truck
has been removed as the same type of clutch
spring is now used in all engines.
The letters "A A" which were formerly
stamped on engines intended for truck use
have been discontinued. All engine numbers
are now prefixed with the letter "A" only.

SPRING SEASON BEST TIME TO

SOLICIT REPAINT JOBS
The spring season with its opportunities for
increased business is just around the corner. This applies particularly to repainting
cars.
Are you making an effort to secure maximum returns on your paint equipment investment by advertising, and soliciting your local
owners for new paint jobs?