THE INLUENCE OF THE KNITTED PRODUCTS DENSITY CHANGE

ON FRAYING RESISTANCE AND AIR PERMEABILITY

Nemanja S Vukovi, Duan S. Trajkovi, Nenad irkovi, Milka G. Spasovi, Marija G. Kodri
University of Ni, Faculty of Technology, Leskovac, Serbia
vucko989@gmail.com,dusant@excite.com,cirkovic@tf.ni.ac.rs,milka.spasovic@gmail.com,izida50@gmail.com
ABSTRACT
The interest in knitted products has been on the rise lately because of their simple production technology, low
expenses, a high level of comfort and their wide range of products. Consumers expect from knitted clothes to be
durable, i.e. to keep its basic dimensions during the exploitation and to be resistant to fraying. In this study,
knitted products (clothes), with different densities and made (knitted) of 100% polyester, were tested. The aim of
the testing was to determine the influence of density change on the resistance to fraying and air permeability, as
well as the relation between the fraying resistance against felt and fraying resistance against fabric (cloth). All
tests were done according to the JUS and ISO standards. Besides that, the results show that the increasing of
density of the knitted clothes increases the fraying resistance; in other words, the materials which have a higher
surface weight also have a higher fraying resistance. The results also show that lower density knitted products
have a higher air permeability and they lose more mass when fraying against felt; this means that they have a
higher fraying resistance against fabric (cloth).
Key words: knitted clothes (fabric), fraying resistance, air permeability, knitted fabric density.

INTRODUCTION
Because of their specific structure in the shape of loops, knitted fabrics have a good extensibility, a
pleasant feel to them; they fit the shape of the body and provide a high level of comfort. Besides that,
consumers expect from knitted fabrics to be durable, to keep its basic dimensions during the
exploitation and to be fraying resistant. The main factors influencing the quality of knitted fabrics are:
the fiber composition, the characteristics of raw materials, i.e. the variations in the properties of yarn,
the method of treatment of yarn and knitted fabrics, the construction - the structure and the geometric
properties. With little changes of different parameters in the quality of raw materials, technical
characteristics of the machines and constructive characteristics of the knitted fabrics, big variations in
the knitted fabrics quality are achieved [1]. In this study, 100% polyester materials are used. This
artificial material has a bit of bad reputation. However, nowadays polyester materials, which are very
comfortable to wear, are being made. Its best characteristic is the fact that polyester is resistant to
crumpling and it keeps its shape (form). Polyester is a very resistant material, very hard for damaging,
durable and easy-washing. It can be washed in the washing machine and dried in a drier at lower
temperatures, or it can be air-dried because of its quick-drying characteristic. It usually does not need
ironing. The aim of the testing in this study is to determine the influence of density change on the
resistance to fraying and air permeability, as well as the relation between the fraying resistance against
felt and fraying resistance against fabric (cloth). The fraying test was done according to the BS EN
ISO 12947-3 standard, which determines weight loss. The air permeability was done according to the
ISO standard 9237.
THE ORETICAL PART
One of the most important parameters, technologically speaking, in the production of knitted fabrics is
the density which is represented by the number of loops per a surface unit. This parameter has a huge
influence on all other characteristics of the knitted item. As we have said earlier, the knitted fabric was
made of elementary structural units-loops, which are arranged in vertical rows and horizontally inside
the knitted fabric. This means that one row is consisted of a huge number of loops which stand one
above the other vertically, while another one consists of a huge number of loops arranged side by side
horizontally. According to this one can differ:

Vertical density which represents the number of loops in one row in a certain length unit and
it is marked as

Dv ( cm1 );

Horizontal density which represents the number of loops in one course (line) in a certain
length unit and it is marked as

D h ( cm1 ).

The total density of the knitted fabric is the total number of loops per a surface unit of the knitted
fabric. This density is calculated as the multiplication of the vertical and the horizontal densities of the
knitted fabric and is calculated according to the relation [2].

D=D h D v ( cm 2 )
(1)
The coefficient of the knitted fabric density is given in the equation and it is the relation between the
horizontal and vertical densities that represents the same relation between the height and the width of
the loop, observed per the same length unit [2]. The knitted fabric density coefficient is calculated
according to the relation.

Dh

C
Dv
(2)
The knitted fabrics density is one of the main parameters which physically-mechanical properties of
the knitted fabrics depend on. So, vertical and horizontal densities are key parameters in the knitted
fabrics calculations and their usability evaluation [2]. The surface weight (mass) of the knitted fabric is
its weight per a certain surface unit and its the function of the horizontal and vertical densities, the
fineness of the yarns and the yarns length necessary for the making of the loop. Since the length of the
yarn needed for one loop is the function of both densities, one can say that the surface weight of
knitted fabric depends on its horizontal and vertical densities and on the fineness of the used yarn. A
square meter is most often used as a surface unit [2]. Fraying resistance is determined by the method
of weight loss, am in regard to the initial mass of the knitted fabric
m
(3)
where

m1 , i.e.:

m1m2
100(%)
m1
m1 - the initial mass of the knitted fabric; m 2 - the knitted fabric mass after the fraying (g)

[3].
EXPERIMENTAL PART
Six knitted 100% polyester fabric with different densities and finenesses:

T t 2=8,8 tex, T t 3=5,6 tex,

T t 1=9,2 tex,

T t 4=12 tex, T t 5=10 tex, T t 6=12 tex were tested in this

study.
The aim of the testing was to determine the density change influence level on fraying resistance and
air permeability, as well as the relation between fraying resistance against felt and fraying resistance
against cloth. Structural characteristics of the knitted fabric: horizontal density-

Dh , vertical

density -

Dv , total density-

D , thickness - h and surface mass - m, were tested according to

the ISO standards and they are shown in Table 1.

The determining (establishing) of the fraying resistance was done in accordance with the Martindales
method - the determining of mass loss according to the standard BS EN ISO 1247-3 [4]. The testing
was done with the use of the Abrasive tester - James Heal 900 series that can be seen in the Picture 1.
In this study, the fraying resistance against felt (felt fraying resistance) and cloth fraying resistance
(the resistance of the knitted fabric interacting with a cloth) were tested. A suitable weight with the
load of 9 kPa was used. The sample was 30 mm in diameter and the measuring of the mass loss was
done after 100, 250, 500, 750, and 1000 frayings.

Picture 1: Abrasive tester James Heal 900

Picture 2: SDL Atlas M021 Air Permeability Tester
The establishing of air permeability was done according to the standard ISO 9237. The range of
measuring (calculations) (where its applicable) is (0,2 2160) mm/s [5]. The air permeability of the
knitted fabric according to the standard procedure ISO 9237 was done by SDL Atlas M021 air
permeability tester, shown in the Picture 2. The procedure included the measuring of the air flow
through a material at a constant gradient pressure. The knitted sample was set face up on a round vent

cm

(whose surface is 20

) of the suction head of the apparatus, at the constant difference of

3

2 1

pressures of 2000 Pa, the volumetric air flow (Q) ( cm cm s

) through the vent covered by the

knitted fabric was determined. The medium volumetric air flow values were calculated on the basis of
five measurements for each knitted sample, and they were used for the calculation of the air

cm 3 ) which runs through 1 cm 2 of the material at

permeability defined as the amount of air (in

the constant gradient pressure in 1 second. The air permeability of the material was tested on its both
sides [6]. The basic characteristics of the knitted fabrics for the experiment were shown in the Table 1.
The cloth which the knitted fabric was frayed against was made of filament, and its characteristics
were given in the Table 2.
Table 1: Structural characteristics of knitted
The characteristics of the
material
Maretial type
The fiber compositton (%)
-polyester
Longitudinal weft mass
(tex)
Surface mass (g/ m
Thickness (mm)

Material designation

U1

U2

U3

U4

U5

U6

Knitted
fabric

Knitted
fabric

Knitted
fabric

Knitted
fabric

Knitted
fabric

Knitted
fabric

100 %

100 %

100 %

100 %

100 %

100 %

9,2

8,8

5,6

12

10

12

162,9

122,3

120,1

141,2

134,1

129,9

0,53

0,43

0,53

0,43

0,37

0,41

Density ( cm

13,71
13,77

12,77
10,1

22,72
4,51

13,77
13,33

12,8
14,1

16,2
8,9

188,78

128,27

102,46

183,55

180,48

144,18

Density coefficient of the

knitted fabric

0.995

1,215

5,037

1,033

0.907

1,856

Interlacement

Accurate

Accurate

Accurate

Accurate

Accurate

Width (cm)

160

Accurat
e
140

160

160

160

160

-in rows
-in lines
2

Surface density ( cm

Table 2: Structural characteristics of the cloth

Material
type

Cloth

Faber
composition
(%)

Longitudinal
weft mass
(tex)

Surface
mass (g/

100%
polyester

38

173,55

Thickness
(mm)

Density
(
1

cm

)
0,42

Warp-22
Weft20,5

Surface
density (

cm

Density
coefficient

)
451

1.073

RESULTS AND DISCUSSION

The table 3 shows the results of mass loss (%) of the six samples of tested knitted fabric after 100,
250, 500, 750 and 1000 fraying against/at felt. Tested knitted fabrics have different surface density (

cm2 ).
Table 3: The ratio of the mass loss depending on the number of knitted fabrics fraying against felt
Type of testing

Sample

U1
The resistance of fraying
at/against felt
- after 100 frayings
- after 250 frayings
- after 500 frayings
- after 750 frayings
- after 1000 frayings

0,125 %
0,251 %
0,314 %
0,440 %
0,566 %

U2

0,251%
0,402%
0,598%
0,714%
0,831%

U3

U4

U5

0,320 %
0,460 %
0,614 %
0,767 %
0,882 %

0,143 %
0,273 %
0,362 %
0,411 %
0,570 %

0,200 %
0,301 %
0,434 %
0,501 %
0,602 %

U6

0,243 %
0,373 %
0,583 %
0,689 %
0,768 %

The pictures (3.1-3.6) show linear dependence of the mass loss (%) on the number of fraying of the
tested knitted fabrics, for each sample separately, when fraying against/at felt.

U 1 = a+bx; a= -200.956; b = 2125,462; x= 162,9; Y=346036,8; R=0,9764;

U 2 = a+bx; a= -340,795; b = 1539,333; x= 122,3; Y=187919,63; R=0,965;

U 3 = a+bx; a= -455,264; b = 1602,471; x= 120,1; Y=192001,5; R=0,985;
U 4 = a+bx; a= -270,887; b = 2248,116; x= 141,2; Y=317163,09; R=0,943;
U 5 = a+bx; a= -403,014; b = 2264,51; x= 134,1; Y=303267,77; R=0,97;
U 6 = a+bx; a= -346,232; b = 1630,7; x= 129,9; Y=211481,698; R=0,942;

Picture 3.1: The first sample

Picture 3.3: The third sample

Picture 3.2: The second sample

Picture 3.4: The fourth sample

Picture 3.5: The fifth sample

Picture 3.6: The sixth sample

Picture 4: Knitted fabrics mass loss in accordance with the number of knitted fabric fraying at/against
felt of the tested sample
The results showed that knitted fabrics of lower density lose more of their mass when fraying, i.e.
lower density knitted fabrics have less resistance when fraying. In the picture 4, one can see that
knitted fabrics lose their mass in accordance with the number of fraying, after 100, 250, 500, 750 and
1000 knitted fabric fraying at/against felt. Table 4 gives the results of the mass loss (%) of all six
tested knitted samples depending on the number of fraying, when knitted fabrics fray at/against a
cloth. The cloth characteristics which tested knitted fabrics were fraying at, are shown in the Table 2.
Table 4: The ratio of the mass loss depending on the number of knitted fabrics fraying at cloth
Type of testing
The fraying resistance
against cloth
- after 100 frayings
- after 250 frayings
- after 500 frayings
- after 750 frayings
- after 1000 frayings

Sample

U1

U2

U3

U4

U5

U6

0,158 %
0,253 %
0,339 %
0,411 %
0,489 %

0,201 %
0,295 %
0,409 %
0,563 %
0,609 %

0,229 %
0,305 %
0,420 %
0,576 %
0,621 %

0,161 %
0,258 %
0,343 %
0,436 %
0,499 %

0,166 %
0,275 %
0,379 %
0,448 %
0,517 %

0,171 %
0,283 %
0,384 %
0,549 %
0,601 %

The Picture (5.1 5.6) show the linear dependence of the mass loss on the number of tested knitted
fabrics frayings, for each sample separately, when knitted fabrics fray against a cloth.

U 1 = a+bx; a= -399,004; b = 2784,862; x= 162,9; Y=453255,01; R=0,974;

U 2 = a+bx; a= -345,543; b = 2083,639; x= 122,3; Y=254483,5; R=0,967;
U 3 = a+bx; a= -400,005; b = 2138,553; x= 120,1; Y=256440,21; R=0,97;
U 4 = a+bx; a= -386,342; b = 2670,426; x= 141,2; Y=376677,8; R=0,9737;
U 5 = a+bx; a= -398,848; b = 2573,804; x= 134,1; Y=344748,26; R=0,952;
U 6 = a+bx; a= -278,041; b = 2007,146; x= 129,9; Y=260450,224; R=0,9663;

Picture 5.1: The first sample

Picture 5.3: The third sample

Picture 5.2: The second sample

Picture 5.4: The fourth sample

Picture 5.5: The fifth sample

Picture 5.6: The sixth sample

The conclusion is the same - lower density knitted fabrics have less fraying resistance. In the picture 6,
one can see that the knitted fabrics lose their mass in accordance with the number of frayings 100, 250,
500, 750 and 1000 knitted fabrics frayings against a cloth.

Picture 6: The knitted fabrics mass loss in accordance with the number of knitted fabrics fraying
against a cloth

Picture 7: The ratio of the knitted fabrics mass loss when fraying against felt and the knitted fabrics
mass loss when fraying against a cloth, after 1000 frayings

The results showed that 100% polyester knitted fabrics have a higher fraying resistance when the
knitted fabrics surface density grows. In the Picture 7, one can see that the knitted fabrics frayed
against felt lost more of their mass after 1000 frayings, with the correlation coefficient R 0.942,
than the ones frayed against a cloth, with the correlation coefficient R 0.9663, so we can make a
conclusion that 100% polyester knitted fabrics have a higher fraying resistance when frayed against a
cloth. It can be seen in the Picture 8 that fraying resistance increases with the increasing of the knitted
fabrics surface density.

Picture 8: The dependence of the surface density on the tested samples fraying resistance
Picture 9 shows that fraying resistance increases with the increasing of the knitted fabrics surface
mass.

Picture 9: The dependence of the sufrace mass on the tested samples fraying resistance
If the knitted fabrics surface density increases, their surface mass also increases, as shown in the
Picture 10, which shows the linear dependence of the knitted fabrics density and tested samples
surface mass.

Picture 10: The linear dependence of the knitted fabrics density and tested samples surface mass.
Table 5 shows the testing results of the air permeability on both knitted fabrics sides-face and reverse,
as well as the medium value of air permeability.
Table 5: The air permeability testing results
Type of testing

U1

U2

Sample

U3

U4

U5

U6

Air permeability
3

2 1

( cm cm s

- face
- reverse
Medium value

1040
1020

High
permeability

High
permeability

1120
1100

1300
1220

1350
1340

1030

High
permeability

High
permeability

1110

1260

1345

Picture 13 shows the dependence of the knitted fabrics density and the medium value of air
permeability with the correlation coefficient R 0.7424, and we can come to the conclusion that the
lower surface mass knitted fabrics have higher air permeability. The second and the third sample show
high air permeability because of the low surface mass of the sample. From the results, one can come to
the conclusion that knitted fabrics have higher air permeability on the face side of the knitted fabric,
with the correlation coefficient R 0.74686, than on the fabrics reverse side with the correlation
coefficient R 0.70756. Pictures 11 and 12 show the linear dependence of the air permeability and
the surface mass on both sides of the knitted fabrics.

Picture 11: The dependence of the knitted fabrics sample face air permeability

Picture 12: The dependence of the knitted fabrics mass and the tested knitted samples air permeability
on reverse side

Picture 13: The dependence of the knitted fabrics mass and the air permeabilitys medium value for
tested sample
CONCLUSION
On the basis of the testing of the knitted fabrics with the same fiber composition, but with different
surface densities, one can conclude that those fabrics have different fraying resistances. This testing
included six samples made of 100% polyester, but with different densities and longitudinal yarn mass.

When testing the dependence (its ratio) of the change of the surface density of the samples and its
influence on the fraying resistance, there is a conclusion that the increasing of the density increases the
fraying resistance. On the basis of the calculated correlation coefficient when knitted fabric frays
at/against felt R 0.942 and the correlation coefficient when fraying against a cloth R 0.9663,
the conclusion is that knitted fabrics have a higher resistance when they fray against a cloth. We came
to a conclusion that the knitted fabrics which fray against/at a cloth have a higher fraying resistance
than the ones that fray against felt, which have a higher mass loss. The air permeability results of the
tested knitted fabrics showed that the knitted fabrics with a bigger surface mass have a higher
resistance to air permeability. From the calculated correlation coefficients of air permeability on the
face of the fabric R 0.74686 and on the reverse side R 0.70756, it can be concluded that the
knitted fabrics have a higher air permeability on the knitted fabrics face side.
REFERENCES
[1] S.M. ortoeva,Matematiko-statistiki model na reolokite svojstva pletenini,1-19, (2000)
[2] Projektovanje pletenina, dr Duan Trajkovi, Univerzitet u Niu, Tehnoloki fakultet u Leskovcu, 2009. god.
[3] D. Stojanova-Krasteva, Rakovodstvo za labaratorni upraznenija po tekstislni ispitivanja i analizi, Tehnieski
unevrsitet, , (2007)

[4] http://www.iss.rs/la/standard/?natstandard_document_id=18343
[5] Akreditovano telo za ocenjivanje usaglaenost, ,, CIS Institut d.o.o. CIS laboratorija Beograd, Vojislava Ilia
88, Standard
[6] ISO 9237 Textiles Determination of the permeability of fabrics to air