ELLE DECOR GOES TO...

Bicycling in Portlands
Pearl District.

Portland
WHATS NEW
BRIDGE THE GAP

Portland goes by
many nicknamesRose City,
Stumptown, Bridgetownbut
the latter may be the most apt,
considering that the citys
12th bridge, Tilikum Crossing,
opened last September. Named
after the indigenous Chinook
tribes word for people, the
Tilikum
Crossing.

134 ELLE DECOR

cable-stayed steel structure is

the longest car-free bridge in the
United States. After dusk, its
also a canvas for artists Douglas
Hollis and the late Anna Valentina Murch: Their installation
of 178 LEDs, which change color
according to the temperature
and current of the Willamette
River, casts dreamlike hues on
the bridges 40 cables.
TASTING MENU The warehouses
of the Central Eastside neighborhood are rapidly becoming an unofficial food-factory
corridor. You can sample salt
culled from Oregons Netarts
Bayand flavored with black
truffles or Stumptown coffee
at Jacobsen Salt Co. (jacobsen
salt.com); watch Peruvian cacao
beans turn into chocolate bars
at Ranger Chocolate (ranger
chocolate.com); taste the fruits
of the cheese-making process at

Ancient Heritage Dairy (ancient

heritagedairy.com); and stop by
the Wonka-esque Quin Candy,
which churns out Pinot Gris lollipops and other eclectic sweets
(quincandy.com).
A LEGAL HIGH Recreational marijuana is newly legal in Oregon.
If youre 21 or older, you can
purchase up to a quarter-ounce
per person per day at a medical dispensary for private use
(see whatslegaloregon.com for
details). These dispensaries
look less like head shops and
more like clean-lined boutiques:
Farma is glossy and sleek enough
to resemble an Apple store
(farmapdx.com); GreenSky Collective is lined with reclaimed
wood (greenskycollective.com).
Another option: Take an 11-mile
bike tour of the citys marijuana
industry, with shopping stops
w
(pedalbiketours.com).

The Steel Bridge

has the quintessential
Portland blend of
industrial and romantic
its great for a walk or
bike ride. The Japanese
garden is touristy, but it
calms even the most
stressed-out soul. Verde
Cocinas farmers
marketdriven Mexican
food is my go-to. Yum!
The town of North
Plains, some 20 miles
west, makes the hairs
on my arms stand up.
It feels like home.
K.D. LANG

Singer/Songwriter

CITY: JONNI ARMANI; BRIDGE: DINA AVILA

THE COOL QUOTIENT MAY BE HIGH, BUT YOU DONT HAVE TO BE A HIPSTER TO LOVE OREGONS MOST
STYLISH CITY, WHERE THE PLEASURES RANGE FROM HIKING TO HAUTE CUISINE. BY K ATHRYN O SHE A-E VANS

PORTLAND, OREGON
WHAT to SEE
Arlene Schnitzer Concert
Hall, 1037 S.W. Broadway,
portland5.com: The glittering grande dame of Portlands performance venues
was once a Paramount movie
palace. On the schedule:
classical pianist Garrick
Ohlsson (May 1416) and
comedy by Steve Martin
and Martin Short (July 24).
Forest Park, forestp ark
conservancy.org: The Olmsted Brothers proposed this
preserve on 5,200 acres of
fern-decked rainforest just
15minutes from downtown
Portland. Look for barred
owls and the occasional
bobcat on 80 miles of meditative hiking trails.
Lan Su Chinese Garden, 239
N.W. Everett St., lansugarden

.org: Built by craftsmen from

Suzhou, China, in one square
block of Chinatown, it has a
teahouse pagoda that overlooks weeping katsura trees
and a koi-stocked pond.
Pittock Mansion, 3229 N.W.
Pittock Dr., pittockmansion
.org: Open for tours daily, this
landmarked French Renaissancestyle 1914 estate was
home to an early owner of
the Oregonian newspaper.
Keep an eye out for the
innovations of the era, like
a centralized vacuum system
and a refrigerated room.
Portland Art Museum, 1219
S.W. Park Ave., portlanda rt
museum.org: The oldest art
museum in the Northwest
(est. 1892) is having a modern
moment, with exhibitions of
photographer William Eggleston (through A
ugust21)
and Andy Warhol (October8
January1, 2017).

Portland Japanese
Garden.

Portland International Rose

Test Garden, 400 S.W.
Kingston Ave., portland
oregon.gov/parks: Among
the 550 varietals of roses
abloom every spring in this
1917 park overlooking the
city? Dream Come True, Wild
Blue Yonder, and Knockout.
The names say it all.

Portland Japanese Garden,

611 S.W. Kingston Ave.,
japanesegarden.com:
Japanese architect Kengo
Kuma is working on an
expansion of this traditional
garden set to open in
2017, but visit now for a
quiet haven of bursting
rhododendrons.

THE WILLAMETTE VALLEY

Oenophiles know the
Willamette Valley is synonymous with one word:
Pinot. Its also home to
some of the best-looking
tasting rooms in the country. Kick off the day with a
glass of Argyle Conducere,
Oregons sparkling wine of
choice, at the winerys
Douglas firlined tasting
house (argylewinery.com).
At the modernist tasting
room of certified-organic
Sokol Blosser, ask for the
earthy 2008 Dundee Hills
Pinot Noir (sokolblosser
.com). End your visit at
Ponzi Vineyards, where you
can play bocce or sit fireside
overlooking the Chehalem
Mountains, dry Riesling in
hand (ponziwines.com).

The best cocktail bar in town is Pp le-Moko.

Its in the basement of the Ace Hotel,
and you can reserve your seat in advance. LittleT Baker is a
great place to go in the morningmy favorite nosh is
ham and swiss on pretzel bread. Head to
Canoe for gifts; they have a nicely curated selection
of local and imported stuff.
ANDY RICKER

WHERE
to EAT

Blue Star Donuts.

136 ELLE DECOR

Blue Star Donuts, blues tar

donuts.com: Skip the lines at
the much-ballyhooed Voodoo Doughnut and stop by
one of the four locations of
this beloved bakery, with flavors like mascarpone-topped
tiramisu and hibiscus-glazed
pistachio cheesecake.
Coquine, 6839 S.E. Belmont
St., coquinepdx.com:
Opened last summer and
named Eater Portlands restaurant of the year, this is the
spot for Francophile comfort
food, like crispy organic
chicken with smoked green
farro and charred chicories.
Laurelhurst Market, 3155 E.
Burnside St., laurelhurst
market.com: Butcher shop

first, lauded restaurant

seconddont miss the marrow bones with horseradish
cream and soft pretzels.
Le Pigeon, 738 E. Burnside
St., lepigeon.com: This
32-seat bote is one of Portlands hippest, thanks to
James Beard Award winner
Gabriel Ruckers rich dishes,
such as foie gras profiteroles
in salted-caramel sauce.
Multnomah Whiskey Library,
1124 S.W. Alder St., mwlpdx
.com: The rarest libations are
kept behind lock and key in
this speakeasy-style saloon
in an old piano store.
Natural Selection, 3033 N.E.
Alberta St., naturalselection
pdx.com: Four-course prixfixe vegetarian menus highlight the freshest seasonal
and regional produce.
Ned Ludd, 3925 N.E. MLK
Blvd., nedluddpdx.com:
Inspired by the Luddites,

chef Jason French cooks

everything in a small alder
woodfired oven, which
makes for a primal satisfaction with each plate.
Pine Street Market, 126 S.W.
2nd St., pinestreetpdx.com:
Portlands answer to New
Yorks food halls is housed in
an 1886 building; try the elevated soft-serve ice cream at
habit-forming Salt & Straw.
Pok Pok, 3226 S.E. Division
St., pokpokpdx.com: Andy
Rickers empire of authentic
Thai-street-food restaurants
kicked off in this old farmhouse on busy Division
Street. Its worth the wait.
Roe, 3113 S.E. Division St.,
www.roepdx.rest: Hidden
behind an unmarked door at
the rear of B&T Oyster Bar,
this dimly lit, Asian-inspired
restaurant serves some of
the best seafood in the city. w

GARDEN: CORBIS; BLUE STAR DONUTS: CHRISTIANN KOEPKE/PORTLANDFRESHPHOTO.COM

Chef-Owner of Pok Pok

PORTLAND, OREGON

Alma
Chocolate.

North of West
boutique.

Hand-Eye
Supply shop.

Alder & Co. is a

dream storebeautiful
objects, jewelry, and
furniture. I used to have a
registry there even
though I wasnt getting
married, just in case
anyone ever wanted to
buy me a present!
Bluehour is Portlands
most elegant restaurant,
where I go when I
want to feel fancy and
grown-up. I even got
married theretwice!
Tea is my drink of choice,
and my favorite shop
for it is TProject. Get
the White Light
White Heat green tea.
CHINA FORBES

Singer, Pink Martini

138 ELLE DECOR

Alma Chocolate, 1323 S.E.

7th Ave., almachocolate.com:
Sacred hearts made of dark
chocolate covered in edible
gold are best sellers at this
cult-classic chocolatier, but
dont pass up the candied
hazelnut and sea salt
topped chocolate bars.
Ampersand Gallery & Fine
Books, 2916 N.E. Alberta St.,
ampersandg allerypdx.com:
In the Alberta Arts District,
Ampersand proffers an
expertly edited selection of
art and photography books
and ephemerathis is the
place to scour for vintage
travel photos and even
mug shots. An art exhibition
rotates every month.
Hand-Eye Supply, 427 N.W.
Broadway, handeyesupply
.com: Octagonal, Oregon-

The rooftop lounge

of the Nines.

WHERE
to STAY
Ace Hotel, 1022 S.W. Stark St.,
acehotel.com: The second
Ace in the growing empire
sets a new standard for hotel
cool. Its 78 rooms have such
only-in-Portland touches as
bespoke gray Pendleton
wool blankets, turntables,
and hoodie bathrobes.
Caravan: The Tiny House
Hotel, 5009 N.E. 11th Ave.,
tinyhousehotel.com: If
youve ever fantasized about
chucking it all, try it here

firstthe seven tiny houses

are fitted with drop-down
tables, hideaway beds, and
all-you-can-eat fair-trade,
gluten-free, vegan smores
around the campfire.
Hi-Lo Hotel, 320 S.W. Stark
St., hi-lo-hotel.com: Opening
this summer in the 1910 Oregon Pioneer Buildinghome
of Hubers, the citys oldest
restaurantthis hotels 120
rooms are decorated with
hand-painted wallpaper by
Maya Romanoff.
Hotel deLuxe, 729 S.W. 15th
Ave., hoteldeluxeportland
.com: A glossy 130-room
retreat near the boutiques of
23rd Street. Black-and-white

made cast-iron skillets, Japanese chambray aprons, and

Grnsfors carpenter axes
from Sweden are among the
stylized utilitarian wares
at this storefront in the Old
Town neighborhood.
MadeHere PDX, 40 N.W. 10th
Ave., madeherepdx.com: As
the name implies, everything
in this highly curated assemblage is made within the city
limits, and much of it (wool
neckties, bamboo toothbrushes, vegan lip butter)
will fit in your carry-on, if not
your back pocket.
North of West, 203 S.W. 9th
Ave., shopnorthofwest.com:
A trove of ethically sourced,
well-designed objets (such
as porcelain-and-deerskin
wind chimes) and accessories (like canvas backpacks
made in Portland).
Powells City of Books, 1005
W. Burnside St., powells.com:
A recently renovated pilgrimage spot for bibliophiles,
thanks to its million new and

Hollywood film stills line the

halls, and classic films are
shown free in the gilded
screening room. Ask for Room
803 for a view of Mount Saint
Helens on a clear day.
The Nines, 525 S.W. Morrison
St., thenines.com: Housed in
the upper floors of Portlands
glazed terra-cottatiled
1909 Meier & Frank building,
with a Tiffany-blue palette in
all 331 guest rooms.
Sentinel, 614 S.W. 11th Ave.,
sentinelhotel.com: Opened
in 2014 in the onetime
Seward Hotel, where Gus
Van Sant filmed scenes for
My Own Private Idaho, the
address is newly luxe. Sixty,
their exclusive hotel within a
hotel, offers its own concierge service and 19 penthouse suites, many with
p rivate rooftop terraces.
The lobby
of the Ace
Hotel.

used books (their main location is reported to be the

largest independent bookstore on earth) and room of
fiercely guarded rare tomes,
such as Lewis and Clarks
journals and first editions of
Oregon writer Ken Kesey.
Schoolhouse Electric, 2181
N.W. Nicolai St., schoolhouse
electric.com: The brand that
helped resuscitate industrialinspired lighting and furniture
may now have an outpost
on New Yorks Vestry Street,
but the Portland flagship,
in an old brick factory not
far from the Willamette River,
is a must-see. Take home
an opal-glass drum shade;
theyre handblown in
antique cast-iron molds in
West Virginia.
Wildfang, 404 S.W. 10th Ave.,
wildfang.com: Stop by this
new address of Portlands
tomboy fashion house,
founded by Nike expats, for
perfect-fit flannel shirts, military pants, and skinny ties.

PRIOR TO DEPARTURE
IFCs Portlandia is a
must-watch for its cheeky
window onto the citys
sustainable ethos. It may
be exaggerated, but it has
captured a big side of local
culture in a way no one
else hasthe famous Put
a Bird on It scene rings
true for any Oregonian.
Read Fugitives and Refugees: A Walk in Portland,
Oregon, Chuck Palahniuks
irreverent travel guide to
the Keep Portland Weird
realities of his hometown
haunted hotels, underground tunnel tours, etc.
Download Loretta Lynn
and Jack Whites Portland, Oregonand then
play it at full blast. The
song, from Lynns 2004
album Van Lear Rose,
is an on-point ballad to
the city, new loves, and
sloe gin fizz.
If youre a shopper, plot
a spree. Oregon is one
of only five states with no
sales taxi.e., the ideal
place to pick up luxury
goods. Hello, Nordstrom!

ALMA CHOCOLATE: CHRISTIANN KOEPKE/PORTLANDFRESHPHOTO.COM; HAND-EYE SUPPLY: CHRISTINE TAYLOR; ACE HOTEL: DINA AVILA

WHERE
to SHOP