Delicious UK - September 2016

DONT MISS...
DIANA HENRYS SIMPLE GENIUS FOOLPROOF LAMB CURRY TOMATO & FETA ROAST CHICKEN NEW FRY-UPS
ON SALE 1-30 SEPTEMBER 2016 4.20
Easiest
pud ever
Grab a spoon & dive in!
HOW BAKE OFF

CHANGED OUR LIVES
Best memories
Exclusive recipes
10 weeknight
meals for
under 60
THE WORLDS
HEALTHIEST
WAY TO EAT
BE A BE T TER
COOK
TECHNIQUES: BETTER JAM,

PERFECT RICE, SWEET PASTRY
THE CHALLENGE: MAKE
YOUR OWN BAGELS
QUICK MIX & BAKE
Nectarine and
almond clafoutis
PLUS... IS RED MEAT BAD FOR YOU?
WELCOME TO
SEPTEMBER
RECIPE AND FOOD STYLING: LOTTIE COVELL. PHOTOGRAPH: GARETH MORGANS. STYLING: TONY HUTCHINSON
Summers lease hath all too short a date,

wrote Shakespeare, but food lovers have
the consolation, as the season turns, of a time
of abundance. The orchards hang heavy
with plums, apples, pears and cobnuts;
blackberries and sloes crowd hedgerows;
and sweet young squash and crisp
cabbages emerge. Autumn is around the
corner but the warmest days still invite
lunch on the terrace. Keep the holiday
feeling going and make the most of
all that wonderful produce before
the leaner times ahead.
Summers last hurrah

BLACKBERRY, MINT AND
ELDERFLOWER FOOL
SERVES 6. HANDS-ON TIME 20 MIN
Put 400g ripe blackberries in a saucepan with

2-3 tbsp elderflower cordial, 120g caster sugar and
a few fresh mint sprigs. Set the pan over a medium
heat and gently bubble the mixture for 10-15 minutes
until the berries soften and release their juices, then
reduce to a thick coulis. Remove from the heat and
let it cool a little, then taste, adding more sugar or
a dash more cordial if needed. Remove the mint sprigs
(discard). Allow the mixture to cool completely (it will
become more like jam in consistency).
Pour 300ml double cream into a large bowl then,
using an electric mixer, whisk to soft-medium peaks.
Stir in 250ml full-fat greek yogurt, then fold in the
cooled blackberry coulis, creating a swirled effect.
Spoon the fool into 6 serving dishes and serve
straightaway, or cover and chill for up to 6 hours.
The power of food
Beyond everyday nourishment, its a

means of bringing people together and
somehow making impossible situations
seem more hopeful.
When I heard about the 91 Ways
initiative in Bristol, set up by the
visionary Kalpna Woolf, I knew delicious. had to tell the
story. The aim is to gather the citys scores of nationalities
for a session of cooking, sharing recipes and experiences,
then sitting down and eating together. When communities
struggle to integrate with each other, Kalpna says, it leads
to people dening each other by their differences rather
than their similarities, but 91 Ways does the opposite:
it unites. We were privileged to meet four of those taking
part women from Syria, Eritrea, Kenya and Sudan. Each
gives a glimpse of their story and shares a recipe thats
important to them and to their culture; turn to p50 for
a taste of this remarkable initiative.
Apart from that, September is a time for focusing on
new challenges, while remembering (and, I hope, hanging
on to, even if only by your ngertips!) that all-important
holiday feeling. Weve endeavoured to capture all those
sentiments in this issue, from affordable, healthy meal
ideas to recipes that re-create the
essence of holiday memories.
Body and soul thats the
delicious. ethos. I hope
your September issue
satises both for you
thi
KAREN BARNES, EDITOR
Turn to p84 for this

months special offer:
subscribe to delicious. magazine
and receive, FREE, Diana
Henrys fab new book Simple
PS
Follow Karen on Twitter

@deliciouseditor and on
Instagram @editorkarenb
A WORD IN
YOUR EAR
Listen to delicious. dish, our

podcast (on iTunes, via the
podcast app or online at
deliciousmagazine.co.uk), and
hear Mercato Metropolitano
founder Andrea Rasca talk
about his passion for making
good food inclusive, rather
than elitist. He wants markets
to be the heart of communities.
The man is an inspiration.
The power of food
Beyond everyday nourishment, its a

means of bringing people together and
somehow making impossible situations
seem more hopeful.
When I heard about the 91 Ways
initiative in Bristol, set up by the
visionary Kalpna Woolf, I knew delicious. had to tell the
story. The aim is to gather the citys scores of nationalities
for a session of cooking, sharing recipes and experiences,
then sitting down and eating together. When communities
struggle to integrate with each other, Kalpna says, it leads
to people dening each other by their differences rather
than their similarities, but 91 Ways does the opposite:
it unites. We were privileged to meet four of those taking
part women from Syria, Eritrea, Kenya and Sudan. Each
gives a glimpse of their story and shares a recipe thats
important to them and to their culture; turn to p50 for
a taste of this remarkable initiative.
Apart from that, September is a time for focusing on
new challenges, while remembering (and, I hope, hanging
on to, even if only by your ngertips!) that all-important
holiday feeling. Weve endeavoured to capture all those
sentiments in this issue, from affordable, healthy meal
ideas to recipes that re-create the
essence of holiday memories.
Body and soul thats the
delicious. ethos. I hope
your September issue
satises both for you
thi
Turn to p84 for this

months special offer:
subscribe to delicious. magazine
and receive, FREE, Diana
Henrys fab new book Simple
PS
Follow Karen on Twitter

@deliciouseditor and on
Instagram @editorkarenb
A WORD IN
YOUR EAR
Listen to delicious. dish, our

podcast (on iTunes, via the
podcast app or online at
deliciousmagazine.co.uk), and
hear Mercato Metropolitano
founder Andrea Rasca talk
about his passion for making
good food inclusive, rather
than elitist. He wants markets
to be the heart of communities.
The man is an inspiration.
delicious. moments
IN THE KNOW
Theres a new market in town, on the site of a disused paper factory in Londons SoBo
(a voguish term for south of Borough). Mercato Metropolitano has the relaxed feel of a
pop-up and the food is outstanding. Its in an enormous urban warehouse-style space,
with outdoor courtyards and stands laden with produce. The idea is to buy, then (a point
of difference from other markets there are lots of tables) sit, eat and chat. Enjoy pizza
from the best maker in Naples, gelato, bread, coffee, wine and lots to come (bakery,
butcher, fishmonger). It will also host musical, cultural and educational events. Get
there before the world cottons on. Open 11am11pm TueSun from 15 September but its
in soft-launch now and all are welcome; mercatometropolitano.co.uk
The best of
WORDS: KAREN BARNES. PHOTOGRAPHS: ISTOCK, LIZ ATKINS
SEPTEMBER
BOOK NOW
Ah, we love the smell of chocolate in the air

Now you can spend an entire day inhaling and
tasting at The Chocolate Show at Londons
Olympia from 1416 October. delicious. is the
media partner, so you can meet members of
the team, as well as satisfy a months worth
of cravings for the dark stuff. Theres even
a chocolate fashion show Adult tickets: 15 on
the door (12.50 in advance); children aged 412,
10/8; visit thechocolateshow.co.uk to book
KITCHEN NOTES
Do you dance while you chop?

Or listen to something calming
and classical as you stir the
risotto? Visit the blog at delicious
magazine.co.uk to find out (and
listen to) the delicious. teams
kitchen soundtrack Tell us your
favourite cookalong songs in the
comments and well add them to
the delicious. playlist.
STREET FOOD?
Its unlikely Id ever do it, but I love

the idea that I could pick up dinner from
the local park rather than from a shop on
the way home and I dont mean finding
a half-eaten sandwich in the bin. A book
about urban foraging could so easily have
been worthy, but its an entertaining read
with recipes: get ready for stinging nettle
tempura The Edible City by John Rensten
(12.99, Boxtree; out 8 September)
deliciousmagazine.co.uk 5
58
116
40
76
SEP TEMBER 2016
ON THE COVER
CONTENTS
YOUR RECIPE INSPIR ATION
27 ALWAYS A WINNER: FRY-UPS Theyre not

just for breakfast, as these dishes prove
30 TASTES LIKE HOME Dishooms head chef

recalls his mums special lamb curry
32 HOLD ON TO THAT HOLIDAY FEELING! The

recipes that take you back to the beach
40 STAR OF THE SEASON: MELONS Theyre

bursting to transform your savoury
and sweet cooking this month
NECTARINE AND ALMOND CLAFOUTIS, p83
Recipe and food styling Rebecca Woollard

Photograph Kate Whitaker
Styling Tony Hutchinson
delicious.shop
For fine gifts and ingredients,

go to shop.deliciousmagazine.
co.uk. Look out for this
symbol for items being
sold in the shop
8 deliciousmagazine.co.uk
44 THE CHEFFY MENU YOU CAN COOK AT HOME

Simon Hulstones dishes have Michelin
star appeal but theyre do-able
50 SHARING FOOD IS AT THE HEART OF

THE COMMUNITY The inspiring emigr
women bringing Bristol together
58 ROAST OF THE MONTH One-pan chicken

with feta, tomatoes and lots of mmm
60 DIANA HENRYS EFFORTLESS FOOD

The domestic doyenne shows how
simplicity can be sublime
69 HERITAGE INGREDIENT: CHEDDAR Your heart

will melt for Debbie Majors recipes
76 BEHIND THE SCENES OF BAKE OFF The stars

spill the baking beans and share recipes
83 IF YOU MAKE ONE PUDDING THIS MONTH...

make it this easy-but-amazing bake
LIGHTER E ATING
89 10 GREAT DINNERS FOR UNDER 60 Midweek
ideas to feed the family in style for less
98 THE WORLDS HEALTHIEST WAY TO EAT Take

a bite out of the Mediterranean diet, rich
in vegetables, grains and other goodies
T HE
delicious.
PROMISE
RECIPES THAT WORK Every
50
recipe is rigorously tested

by our food team, using
state-of-the-art Electrolux
ovens, so you can be
confident they work
every time.
INGREDIENTS We aim to use

easy-to-find seasonal
ingredients. Well tell you
where to find any unusual
ingredients and/or what to
substitute them with.
We use higher-welfare
meat for testing, supplied
by The Ginger Pig
(thegingerpig.co.uk).
27
69
This symbol next to an

ingredient means there
are more ideas for using
it on our Loose Ends page.
HONEST COOKING TIMES
RE AD ALL ABOUT IT
BE A BE T TER COOK
11 INBOX Whats on your mind this month?
108 THIS MONTH IN THE delicious. KITCHEN
13 FOR STARTERS Events, trends and

interesting nibbles of news
17 A SLICE OF MY LIFE Fuchsia Dunlop tells
Recipes, tips and know-how
112 THE CHALLENGE How to make bagels that

have more than a ring of authenticity
Whenever you
OTHER GOOD THINGS
for food lovers, tried and tested
10 COOK THE COVER and win a Kenwood
21 FOOD HERO The veteran oyster farmer
Chef Titanium mixer worth 430
whos glad he ditched the mussels
23 TEST REPORT A hot restaurants cookbook,

a top bread course and the best feta
75 CHEERS! Susy Atkins on the best buys

and a grape to look out for this autumn
86 THE SANE VIEW The red meat debate

roars on, but is it all that bad for you?
116 HUNGRY TRAVELLER Why food lovers

should be heading for the Lake District
130 A GOOD RANT Bad food festivals are letting

down our producers, says one writer
Indicates a vegetarian
recipe.
Indicates a
gluten-free recipe.
KNOW- see this symbol,
HOW
how Chinese cookery stole her heart
18 WISH LIST This months new products
Unlike many magazines,

our timings include
prep such as chopping.
Hands-on time is when
youre chopping, stirring
or frying. Oven/simmering
time is when you can
leave the dish in the oven
or on the hob.
10 JUST FOR YOU Win a food lovers stay in

Belfast with a Michelin-starred dinner
67 COOKBOOK CONFIDENTIAL Meet your food

heroes at exclusive reader events
84 SUBSCRIPTION OFFER Subscribe and get

Diana Henrys new cookbook FREE
103 LOOSE ENDS Tasty ways to use up

leftovers from this months recipes
124 COMING NEXT MONTH

128 FOOD LOVERS CROSSWORD
129 RECIPE INDEX
youll find useful

extra information about
the recipe.
This symbol
means youll find
an option to freeze
or chill part or all of the
recipe in advance.
MAKE
AHEAD
Indicates you can freeze

all or most of the recipe.
Unless stated, freeze the
finished dish for up to
3 months. Defrost and
heat until piping hot.
NUTRITIONAL INFORMATION
Recipes are analysed for
nutritional content by an
expert nutritionist. Theyre
calculated with precision
but may vary, depending
on the ingredients used.
Calculations include only
listed ingredients.
PRICES are correct at

time of going to press.
just for you.
Check out
Belfasts sights
and gourmet
delights
WIN a foodie
escape to Belfast
WORTH
1,230
TO ENTER AND FOR TS &C S, GO TO deliciousmagazine.co.uk/promotions
his is Northern
Irelands Year of Food
and Drink, so weve
linked up with Tourism Ireland
to celebrate. Enter our
competition for a chance to win
a food lovers break for two in
the vibrant city of Belfast.
The prize includes flights
from Great Britain to Belfast,
with two nights at the Europa
Hotel. The winner will receive
a comprehensive guide to
Belfast, where sights include
the new Titanic exhibition
and the famous murals. Dinner
on the first evening will be at

Michelin-starred OX, run by
Belfast native Stephen Toman
and Brittany-born Alain
Kerloch, one of many hot
places to eat in the city.
Next day, after breakfasting
on a full Ulster fry, the winner
and friend will join the Belfast
Food Tour*, meeting inspiring
local producers and sampling
some of the best fare Northern
Ireland has to offer.
For more information on
Northern Irelands Year of Food
and Drink, visit ireland.com
WIN a
Titanium
worth 430
COOK
THE
COVER
TO ENTER, GO TO
deliciousmagazine.co.uk/
cookthecover
ook our cover recipe this month and you

could win the new-look Kenwood Chef
Titanium mixer. Designed and engineered
in the UK, it can knead, mix and whisk with its
trusty attachments. The new in-bowl illumination
feature means you can keep an eye on the colour
and consistency of your mix, and the clever
load-sensing control allows the machine to
intuitively adapt to each recipe.
FOR A CHANCE TO WIN Make the clafoutis on
our September cover, take a picture and share
it with us. Competition closes 30 September.
For more on Kenwood and to apply to take
part in this years Kenwood Disaster Chef
competition, see kenwoodworld.com/uk. Follow
Kenwood at facebook.com/KenwoodWorld
JULYS COOK THE COVER WINNER
Angela Billows wins

a Napoleon Grills gas barbecue
for her stout glazed salt beef
*AN ALTERNATIVE ACTIVITY WILL BE OFFERED IF THE TOUR

DOESNT OPERATE ON THE WINNERS DATES OF TRAVEL.
Flights, a two-night hotel stay and a taster of the citys

food and drink highlights are included in this great prize
have your say.
Tell us what you think of

delicious. (good and bad)
or send your tips, pictures
and queries to:
info@delicious
magazine.co.uk.
Or write to us at:
delicious. magazine,
Eye to Eye Media Ltd,
Axe & Bottle Court,
70 Newcomen Street,
London SE1 1YT
See what other
delicious. fans are
talking about at facebook.com/
deliciousmagazineuk
Follow us at twitter.com/
deliciousmag
Follow us at instagram.
com/deliciousmag
*A FULL MAINLAND UK DELIVERY ADDRESS AND TELEPHONE NUMBER MUST BE SUPPLIED. ENTRANTS MUST BE OVER 18. FOR FULL TS&CS, TURN TO P129
THIS MONTHS
STAR PRIZE!
12 x 50cl bottles
of Sloemotion No.7
Made in Malton,
North Yorkshire,
Sloemotion No.7 is
a new twist on the
traditional fruit or
summer cup. Its
a gin-based blend
of hedgerow,
orchard and field
fruits, flavoured
with hedgerow
blossoms and fresh
herbs. Just add
lemonade, fruit,
herbs and ice for
a wonderfully
refreshing drink
its the new way to
celebrate summer!
WIN! 50
SAINSBURYS
VOUCHERS
Great recipes need great

ingredients. For your chance
to win 50 Sainsburys
vouchers, solve the cryptic
clue on the magazine spine,
then email your answer, with
your name, full UK mainland
address and phone number,
to info@deliciousmagazine.
co.uk. Competition entry closes
31 August 2016. Entrants must
be in the Sainsburys delivery
area see p129 for Ts&Cs.
Solution to Julys cryptic clue:
Worcestershire sauce
FROM OUR
SUBJECT:
Sweets
leave a sour taste
FROM : Julie Jenkins
INBOX...
SUBJECT: More vegan
FROM : Juliet Helps
STAR
EMAIL
I agree with
Margaret Rooke
[August issue, p130] about
shops that push unnecessary
sugary treats on customers.
Our young people, especially,
need more help in learning
about healthy, balanced diets.
Sugar-laden, additivecontaining, outsize desserts and cakes shouldnt be part of
anyones daily routine, particularly since many coffee
chains already sell drinks that contain huge amounts of
sugar. Doughnuts and the like should be an occasional
treat as they offer no positive contribution nutritionally.
It would be wonderful if coffee shops offered smaller,
healthier choices and labelled them so consumers thought
about what the various snacks contain. And I dont want
a family-size bar of chocolate when I buy a newspaper, either!
SUBJECT: The most important

FROM: Rachel Eborall
meal
I wish you would feature more

breakfast recipes. Too many of us
skip breakfast or start the day
with a bowl of processed cereal.
delicious. rightly urges people
to cook from scratch and to avoid
processed foods, and this should
apply to breakfast as well. In
our house we try to eat a good,
healthy breakfast every day, but
wed like a bit more inspiration.
Editor Karen Barnes replies: We agree
wholeheartedly look out for our
breakfast feature in next months issue.
SUBJECT: The
new pasty
FROM: Deborah
Francis
Thank you for

the seaside
feature [August
issue, p42]. The recipes were perfect
for our trip to the Lytham Festival in
Lancashire. Even the British weather
couldnt spoil the beef empanadas
recipes
It was good to read your article

in the August issue Why is it
on-trend to be vegan? [p70] as
Ive recently adopted a plantbased diet to try to improve my
health. I love your magazine
and, as a private chef (I have
to cook meat for other people),
I enjoy the seasonal dishes.
Following on from your
article it would be great to
see some vegan dishes in
the magazine. Everyone
needs to know that vegan
food can be fantastic.
Would you like to see more
vegan recipes? Let the
team know at info@
deliciousmagazine.co.uk.
SUBJECT: At last
FROM : Rachel West
Finally I can allow

myself to be
inspired by the
August issue of
delicious. Having
moved into our
project house in
February, weve
managed to get
our kitchen into an
(almost) complete state, meaning the KitchenAid is
out, my new oven is ready to go and theres a list of
delicious. recipes waiting to be cooked. First up:
melt-in-the-middle mozzarella beef burgers [p26]
(Im going to make my own rolls), followed by the
ice cream cookie sandwiches on the cover [p86].
What YOUVE been making this month...
Peanut butter
and raspberry
bundt cake
Emma Hack
Marzipan and
Sticky stout
glazed salt beef mascarpone cake
with chimichurri with summer fruit
@foxindra
Kirsty Hird
No-churn ice
cream cookie
sandwiches
@sophiemay103
in the know.
FOR STARTERS
N E WS, N I B B L E S O F K N OW L E D G E A N D G O O D T H I N G S TO D O R I G H T N OW
WHERE DO YOU GET YOUR RECIPE INSPIRATION?
Whether you search on websites, flick through an app or sit down with a cookbook or magazine
depends partly on your age, but new research shows most of us still value all those things
IN THIS
MONTH...
1666 On 2 September,
ONLINE
COOKBOOKS
JUST
& MAGAZINES MAGAZINES
a fire at Tom Farynors

bakery on Pudding Lane
triggered The Great Fire
of London. It burned
for four days and destroyyed more
than 13,000 homes.
APPS
WORDS: RACHEL WALKER, KERRY FOWLER, SUSAN LOW, PHOEBE STONE.

PHOTOS: ISTOCK. SOURCE: MINTEL.COM 2016
1783
16-34
YEARS
OLD
53% 37% 20% 24%
35-44
YEARS
OLD
43% 39% 24% 15%
45-54
YEARS
OLD
32% 44% 30% 20%
OVER
55
22% 49% 30% 11%
Did you know?

Storecupboards would be considered empty without a jar of basil
pesto these days. In 1971, the then mysterious green paste made
its way from Liguria to Britains Italian delis, but
it wasnt until September 1991 that pesto hit
the big time when Sacla Basil Pesto went
on sale in Sainsburys, Waitrose and
Safeway. Suddenly a generation of
cooks were introduced to the
pleasures of the Italian table.
It changed the way we eat.
Anna Maria
Russell (7th Duchess
of Bedford) was born
on 3 September and is
remembered as the
creator of afternoon
tea. Shed tuck into a po
ot
of darjeeling and a few
dainty sandwiches and cakes
to stave off hunger until dinner.
1910 Heinz Cream of
Tomato Soup went on

sale for the first time
in the UK in Fortnum &
Mason. Back then, Heinz
salesmen had to be over
6ft tall and strong enough
to carry the 12kg of kit.
1975 On 24 September, Dougal
Haston and Doug Scottbecame

the first Brits to conquer Everest.
On the expedition they each took
13 tons of food and 1,100 film
rolls hardly travelling light.
Hear from producers and chefs, nd out about a game-changing new market and discover
stories from the world of foodIts all in the latest episode of our podcast, delicious. dish.
We want to hear your food stories too: call 020 3868 1919 to record your anecdotes
in the know.
DATES FOR
YOUR DIARY
s HOW I FELL IN LOVE WITH FOOD
DAVE MYERS: THE HAIRY BIKER ON COOKING WITH MUM

AND DISCOVERING INTERNATIONAL INGREDIENTS
Monday was baking day in our house when I was

growing up. Mum would bake oury baps, scones,
a victoria sandwich and meat pies basic northern
fare. Shed raise the dough in one of those creamware
bowls covered in a tea towel, and Id lick clean the
mixing bowls used for the cakes. She developed multiple sclerosis when I was eight, so
it all changed then. By the time I was 14, I was doing most of the cooking and shopping
for the household. My epiphany came when I moved to London for university in the
mid-1970s. I remember going to my rst Indian restaurant and discovering poppadoms.
I ordered a chicken madras with rice and thought it was the most amazing thing Id ever
eaten. I blew most of my grant on food after that, going to Chinatown and Indian shops
for ingredients. Ive been obsessed with food and cooking since. It also helped that Keith
Floyd was just starting up then he gave men permission to cook and show off a bit!
Look out for The Hairy Bikers Chicken & Egg on BBC Two this autumn
HOT NEW COOKBOOKS

CARNEVAL: A CELEBRATION
OF MEAT, IN RECIPES
25, Bantam Press, out 8 Sep
Author Harry Eastwood
spent years researching
this book, working as
a butcher in Londons
Smithfield Market, on a
venison farm in Scotland,
in Australia and in France.
Shes done her homework
on the environmental
implications of eating meat
and is an advocate of noseto-tail cooking. Her enticing
recipes celebrate the glory
and joy of eating great
meat, using rarer cuts
such as lambs brains, beef
cheeks and beef shin as
well as better-known items
such as rib and shoulder.
GENNAROS ITALIAN BAKERY

20, Pavilion, out 8 Sep
For his latest book, Italian
chef and restaurateur
Gennaro Contaldo turns
to Italian baking. There are
recipes from all over Italy,
from traditional Neapolitan,
Umbrian and Puglian
breads, to sweet biscotti,
cakes and festive treats.
PALESTINE ON A PLATE
25, Jacqui Small,
out 15 Sep London-based
chef Joudie Kalla traces the
roots of her Palestinian
heritage in this, her first
cookbook. Flavour-packed
traditional recipes inherited
from her mother, aunts and
extended family form the
bedrock of the collection,

although many have been
simplified to make them
achievable in the British
home kitchen.
RIVER COTTAGE A TO Z
40, Bloomsbury, out 8 Sep
River Cottage has been
around for two decades
and this hefty reference
tome by Hugh FearnleyWhittingstall and his crack
team of chefs, foragers,
growers and teachers
is a fitting tribute. From
alexanders to zander,
theres a wealth
of information on how to
grow, buy, prepare, cook,
eat and enjoy the teams
favourite ingredients.
SEP & OCT
16 SEP TO 2 OCT
Lewes OctoberFeast
This volunteer-run festival
celebrates all thats good in
East Sussex. If youre a local,
you can sign up to host a
pop-up supper in your own
home (or attend someone
elses). Therell be a huge
street food feast in Harveys
Brewery Back Yard, too,
as well as a chance to make
use of an apple glut at the
community apple press.
Prices vary;
lewesoctoberfeast.com
17-18 SEP
Liverpool Food and
Drink Festival
With a chocolate corner
and a good life area
dedicated to healthy eating,
this years lineup is all about
keeping the balance. Therell
be celebrity chefs including
star baker Nadiya Hussain
taking to the demo stage,
and pop-up restaurants
and bars to keep you going.
Adult day tickets from 5.50,
weekend passes from 10;
liverpoolfoodanddrinkfestival.
co.uk
23 SEP TO 2 OCT
Guernsey International
Food Festival
Its 10 days of feasting and
festivities, including a dinner
hosted by Jean ChristopheNovelli and special menus at
bars and restaurants across
the island. Enjoy food demos
from international chefs,
beach barbecue cook-offs
and foraging tours
throughout the week.
Prices vary; visitguernsey.
com/food-festival
8-9 OCT
London Greek Wine Festival
Get down to Kings Cross for
a masterclass in Greek wine,
hosted by expert Olly Smith.
Fill up on chargrilled lamb
and suckling pig prepared by
The Greek Larders Theodore
Kyriakou and dance along
to Mediterranean-inspired
music on the Saturday night.
From 10; londongreek
winefestival.co.uk
people.
A SLICE OF MY LIFE
FUCHSIA
DUNLOP
The expert on Chinese cookery talks

about her food journeys of discovery,
shelling peas and a set of beloved china
CHINA GIRL, FROM

BELOW With her
food-loving
mother; the first
Westerner at
Sichuan Higher
Institute of
Cuisine in China;
an early family
adventure with
her sister; a
legends dishes
and a cleaver are
much prized
MY FIRST MENTOR
From the beginning it was my mother. I remeember
watching her eating something new and foren
nsically
analysing it: I think there is thyme and maybee bay
I wanted to be able to do the same and adopted her
h habit
of tasting things, then writing down all the detaails.
HAPPY KITCHEN MEMORIES

My siblings and I grew up thinking that cooking is
i just
like living you do it automatically. My younger siister
and I were always in the kitchen shelling peas or
standing on chairs and helping stir scrambled eggs..
FOOD FROM AROUND THE WORLD

We had an unusually international diet for 1970s Britain.
My mother taught English as a foreign language and wee
often had her students living with us. They came from
Japan, Turkey and Spain and would all cook and share
recipes that gradually entered the family repertoire.
INTERVIEW: KERRY FOWLER. PORTRAIT: JONATHAN PERUGIA. PHOTOGRAPHS: ISTOCK
MY LOVE AFFAIR WITH CHINESE FOOD

It began when I went backpacking in China. The food
was unlike any Chinese food Id had before. Later on
I applied for a British Council scholarship to study in
China and chose Sichuan Province because Id had good
meals there and it had a reputation for amazing food.
I was continually taken by friends for meals with their
family every day Id be seduced by new cooking scents.
PRECIOUS PIECES
I was lucky to have known Yan-kit So, the fantastic, very
serious Chinese cookery writer, who died about
10 years ago. I knew her in the last ve years of her life;
she was a friend. I have some of her serving dishes.
HARD TO LIVE WITHOUT

My Chinese cleaver. Its my desert-island tool. In terms
of cookery books, it would be Leiths Cookery Course
I was given it when I was 11 and it was my boot camp
in cooking and my two battered textbooks from the
Sichuan cooking school where I studied to be a chef.
FUCHSIAS LATEST BOOK, LAND OF FISH AND RICE, IS PUBLISHED
BY BLOOMSBURY, 26.
These pages are about us doing the

hard work so you dont have to Joy!
Were sent anything from 40 to 100
new products a month, and we really
do try them all: tasting, smelling the aromas,
testing gadgets. Only if theyre useful, goodlooking and value for money do they get the
delicious. seal of approval.
GLUTEN FREE
Ive tasted a lot of poor gluten-free
pastry in my time, so when a friend
recommended Oast to Host pastry
I was sceptical. And then we tried
it The all-butter fresh pastry is
remarkably good. As with most
gluten-free pastry, its best not to
blind-bake it; use a metal flan case,
fill the tart and put it on a heated metal sheet for best
results. Sweet, plain and dairy-free sweet pastry, about
2.99 for 300g; visit oasttohost.com to order and for stockists
HOT ON THE SHELVES

Sainsburys has launched a new range of speciality
on-trend ingredients, including truffle salt (4),
kimchi (2.75), dried courgetti nests (surprisingly
good but pricey at 2 for one small serving),
jambalaya paste (2.30) and pomegranate
molasses (2.75). Available from more than 500
stores nationwide and online at sainsburys.co.uk
Henderson at home
Anything to do with chef Fergus Henderson is bound to be good, so I was

champing at the bit to try his two new products, which first featured on
his St John restaurant menu. Trotter Gear (great name) is a pouch of rich
goodness, complete with porky meaty bits, perfect for boosting gravy or
pepping up a pie filling. Theres Welsh rarebit mixture, too. Yes, of course,
its easy to make it yourself (see p103, in fact), but Ferguss tubful is great
for nights when you cant face cooking and want a (quality) snack in five
minutes. Apart from the obvious toast-topper, he suggests dolloping it
over a potato bake or burger, then grilling. Try it. Welsh rarebit mixture,
4.99; Trotter Gear, 5.99; available from Ocado from 21 September
THE BEES KNEES

The team loved
Mighty Fines
honeycomb dips they
really were gone in 60
seconds... Theyre
pieces of honeycomb
dipped in Belgian milk
chocolate (like posh,
half-naked Crunchie
bars). Favourites:
peanut butter and
salted caramel (both
3.50 for 90g). Five per
cent from every sale
goes to Friends of the
Honeybee. Buy online
from mightyfine.co or
notonthehighstreet.com
in the know.
Cover-up
That comforting, cosy

feeling is upon us again
Bake Off is underway and
the nation is being
inspired to make cakes
of every shape, taste and
size. If you bake, you
need an apron,
and this one,
featuring Venice
Cats by Elizabeth
Blackadder, is
just the ticket
not to mention
good value at
just 15. Its from
the Royal Academy
of Arts Shop
warning:the
website is a
rabbit hole of
good things.
shop.royalacademy.
org.uk
TOP KIT
M&S has introduced a new, 40-strong Chef
range of utensils and cooking kit, including
hard-anodised pans (85 for a three-piece set),
tri-ply copper pans (from 29.50 for a milk pan),
a marble pestle & mortar (39.50), flat whisk
(9.50) for whisking in shallow pans and a mini
copper casserole dish (19.50). They look the
partand the quality is excellent. Available in store
and online at marksandspencer.com
ARTISAN
ONLINE
Check out caprera.com an
online shop selling magnificent
artisan produce. Unlike some
similar businesses delivery is
nationwide, so it matters not
whether you live in John
OGroats or Penzance. The key
thing is its all about quality
and provenance.
Get 10% off your first
SPECIAL order Visit caprera.
OFFER
com to order and quote
DELI10 at the checkout
PHOTOGRAPH: ISTOCK
THIS MONTH
Im drinking
Caipirinhas Ive always loved their limey taste and the Olympics
have boosted my enthusiasm. Theyre made with cachaa (a
Brazilian spirit made from sugarcane), which can be harsh. But not
Zeca, a new cachaa so smooth its almost wasted in a cocktail.
Available exclusively from Harvey Nichols, 34 for 70cl; harveynichols.com
MULTI-TASKERS
These stoneware Hokan bowls are
so useful: stackable, freezerproof,
ovenproof (yes, you can bake in
them), they have lids so food can
be stored in them in the fridge
and theyre pretty enough to bring to
the table. The price is on the high
side, but I reckon its worth it for
kitchenware that ticks so many
boxes. 87 for a set of three: small,
medium and large; hokanbowls.com
food hero.
THE OYSTER IS HIS WORLD
PHOTOGRAPHS: PAMELA FARRELL
The broad tidal marshes of the north Norfolk coast are Daisy Meagers
destination, where she meets veteran oyster farmer Richard Loose
he tide is out at Brancaster

Staithe and the crisp, saline
air whips across the tidal
marshes, buffeting us as we pick
our way along the marshy strand.
Mind your step! One foot wrong
and you could be up to your
armpits in mud, warns Richard
Loose, oyster farmer and my guide
for the afternoon.
Richard has been cultivating rock
oysters here for around 40 years
and he knows these marshes well.
But oyster farming wasnt part of
Richards original game plan. The
son of a mussel sherman, he went
into his fathers business after
leaving school at 18. Mussel
farmings a tricky business, he
says. You have to rely on natures
bounty to get stock, and they only
have a six-month season for harvest
so it was difcult to make a living.
In 1975, Richard heard that seed
oysters (tiny young oysters) were
available to buy and decided to give
it a go. He started with around
5,000 of them (not as many as it
sounds when you compare it to the
250,000 a year he puts down in his
oyster beds now). The plan was to
try it as a supplement to the mussels.
I didnt do it well at rst and
didnt know if oyster farming
would be commercially viable, but

I must have seen some potential,
remembers Richard. He soon built
up a market for oysters in the area,
supplying local pubs and hotels.
By the late 1990s hed abandoned
mussels completely. I like the
sustainability and the controllability
of oyster farming you can buy
seed from the hatchery and harvest
year round. Ive been lucky because
most producers stuck to mussels so
Ive carved out a niche.
A SOLITARY PROFESSION
Demand is higher than ever, a fact
Richard puts down to the revival of
local pubs and restaurants great
for business but not without stress.
If youre the supplier and they
have oysters on the menu all the
time, youre under constant pressure
to select and have ready the size
and grade of oyster that each
restaurant wants, Richard explains.
Until a year ago, the business was
a one-man operation, from laying
down the seed, managing the
stock, harvesting and delivering to
customers. Now Richard is nearing
retirement, hes getting a helping
hand: I cant go on doing
everything myself, he says. But he
worries about the future. Its hard
nding people who are willing to

do this kind of thing but Im not
ready to let go completely yet.
Richard is in his element when
hes out on the marshes, working
the beds, moving the oysters
around to give the growing shellsh
more space: I enjoy the farming
side because youre managing
livestock and the way you treat
them affects the harvest. Its
solitary work but Richard enjoys
the natural environment and nds
satisfaction in managing the
oysters. I love the peace and quiet
of working the oyster beds.
Looking out onto the expansive,
sweeping landscape, I agree its
a good place to work as long as
you know where the pitfalls are
With thanks to Abellio Greater Anglia
CRATE
EXPECTATIONS
Richard inspects
the latest briny
haul from his
oyster beds
delicious.
PRODUCE AWARDS: THE WINNERS!
We care about producers and next month well

announce the winners of our inaugural Produce
Awards. Just 64 finalists made it through to the
final round, which took place in London on 14 July.
Judges were Prue Leith, editor Karen Barne
Barnes,
food writer Sophie Grigson, Westm
Kingsway College expert Ian Wild
and chefs Theo Randall and Peter
Gordon. The winners and winning
region will be revealed next month.
deliciousm
ne.co.uk 21
in the know.
TEST
REPORT
THE COOKBOOK
The Palomar Cookbook
(25; Mitchell Beazley)
TESTED BY Susan Low
PHOTOGRAPHS: HELEN CATHCART
MEDITERRANEAN
FLAVOURS
The Palomar Restaurant

in Londons Soho
opened in 2014 to a
urry of acclaim. The
chefs and owners share
an Israeli/Jewish
diaspora background,
and the restaurant
mixes up the various Jewish cooking
traditions, throwing in a few European
and British inuences for good measure.
The food is creative, exciting and eclectic.
Its not, however, Kosher, as a ick-through
of the book reveals bad Jew kreplach
(minced pork) and shellsh dishes.
I ate at Palomar soon after it opened.
I loved the buzz and wanted to eat
everything on the menu; it was a similar
experience trying to choose a couple of
recipes to road test. But its not just that
they all sound tempting, its also that they
have an annoying habit of cross-referencing
other recipes, so a dish that looks relatively
straightforward turns out to be complicated
you might rst need to make garlic
cont, cured lemon paste, harissa
Being time-poor I needed recipes that
didnt require hours of prep. So, after a lot of
page-ipping I decided on chicken thighs in
green olive and tomato sauce, and burnt
aubergine with tahini and pomegranate.
QUALITY OF THE RECIPES Tomer Amedi, the head
chef, writes: We were determined our
book should be brimming with recipes that
Burnt aubergines
and spicy chicken
thighs (inset)
not only reect The Palomar Restaurant

experience but also are easy, fun, quick
and simple to create, beautiful to look
at and utterly delicious to eat. So how did
these two dishes live up to the promise?
From experience, recipes from chefs can
be a nightmare of illogic, so I breathed
a sigh of relief at neat ingredient lists and
numbered steps that didnt go on for ages.
The chicken thigh recipe called for two
homemade spice blends baharat and ras
el hanout for which the whole spices
need to be toasted, then ground. The
heady aromas had my kitchen smelling
like a souk. The recipe wasnt exactly quick
and simple, and Im not quite sure why I
had to blanch the olives for two minutes in
boiling water with lemon juice added to it
three times, no less. The dish was richly
spiced but wasnt overpowering, and the
portions were generous.
The burnt aubergine recipe is one of the
simplest in the book. The aubergine is
charred over an open ame until soft,
then topped with tahini sauce and
pomegranate seeds. It was a complete
doddle and lived up to the ideal of being
beautiful to look at and delicious to eat.
Ive earmarked a few recipes for when
I have a bit more time, including the
Yemeni bread called kubaneh, which

I had in the restaurant and have been
fantasising about since, and cauliower
steak with labneh and grated tomatoes
oh, and those bad Jew kreplach
PHOTOGRAPHY Helen Cathcarts inviting
photographs capture the buzzy atmosphere
of the restaurant, the customers, the food
being prepped, and the nished dishes.
SUITABLE FOR Devotees of Palomar,
particularly those with time on their
hands, will be fans, as will admirers of
Yotam Ottolenghi the sort of cooks
who pride themselves on having a spice
cupboard that heaves with packets of
fragrant spices and exotic ingredients,
and who are condent enough in the
kitchen to give the recipes a go.
STAR RATING ++++ +
in the know.
THE COOKERY SCHOOL

WHERE The Woodspeen,
BREAD OF HEAVEN
Newbury, Berkshire
(thewoodspeen.com)
THE COURSE Bread and enriched
doughs, 195 for a full day, including
lunch with wine and take-home breads
TESTED BY Rebecca Brett & delicious. friends
TASTE TEST WORDS: PHOEBE STONE. COOKERY SCHOOL PHOTOGRAPHS: KAREN BARNES
WHAT ITS LIKE In the middle of the beautiful

Berkshire countryside, amid rolling hills
and vineyards, stands a former pub. Inside
is the Michelin-starred The Woodspeen
restaurant and over the road, by the veg
patch, is a state-of-the-art cookery school.
At one end is an area for learning
theory. Here students gather at the start of
the day, fortied by freshly made coffee
and pastries. Later, it becomes the setting
for a fantastic lunch (prepared in the
restaurant). At the other end is the
teaching kitchen, with enough work
stations for 12 students to roll up their
sleeves and take part in the many handson courses offered here, from how to cook
stocks, sauces and soups, to steak night.
WHAT I LEARNED Eating bread is one of my
favourite pastimes (is a meal complete
without it?), so it seemed natural to take
a class where Id learn how to make it
properly. John Campbell, the esteemed
head chef at the restaurant and author of
many chef training books, was our teacher
for the day. Anything this man doesnt
THE TAS TE TES T
Rebecca and editor

Karen (both centre) at
the cookery school
know about bread isnt worth knowing.

You can release your inner geek with him
and learn the ins-and-outs of bread
making: how the right temperature is
crucial in activating the yeast, the science
of gluten structure and how it varies in
different doughs, and the importance of
keeping the scar (or untidy bit) underneath
when shaping a loaf ready for proving.
And if, like me, youre too eager to have
a go and mess things up ve minutes into
the rst task, John is there to show you
how to rescue it, and to provide extra
elbow grease when your arms tire from
the slap-and-fold kneading technique.
The course was a full day of prodding,
poking, kneading and shaping dough into

beautiful savoury and sweet breads. We
made soda bread, sourdough rolls, pitta
breads, scones, cinnamon buns
Learning how to make bread in a dutch
oven (a lidded casserole) was fascinating,
especially when we saw the difference in
rise between that and the loaf we baked
the traditional way. The trapped air in the
pot makes the loaf rise higher, said John.
THE VERDICT Id recommend this course to
anyone who already has a little knowledge
of bread making and wants to expand it.
You get a day learning the secret to baking
fantastic breads and you also go home with
enough bakes to open your own bakery.
FETA AND GREEK-STYLE CHEESE
HOW WE TEST
Our panel are taste experts. We
conduct tests without packaging,
so our tasters dont know who
produced each product. And to
prevent testers influencing each
other, theyre not allowed to confer,
so the results are unbiased.
WHAT WE LOOKED FOR
Traditional feta is made in specific
parts of Greece. In 2002, Greek feta
was awarded PDO status and must
be made from local sheep and/or
goat milk. Here we tested brined
white-curd cheeses made with
a mixture of sheep and goat milk.
We tested more than 50 cheeses
in six separate rounds to find those
with the best crumbly texture and
characteristic salty tang.
JOINT
SUPERMARKET
WINNER
Essential
Waitrose Greek
Feta, 1.35 for
200g The sheep
and goat milk
flavours shone
through in this
crumbly cheese.
JOIN
SUPERMARKET
WINNER
Ocado Exclusive
Barrel-Aged Feta
Cheese, 2.64 for
200g Smooth and
creamy, this got
a thumbs-up for
its deep flavour
and milky finish.
BRAND WINNER
Cypressa Organic
Feta Cheese,
2.50 for 200g,
Ocado This was
loved for its
smooth taste,
creamy, meltin-the-mouth
texture and
decent crumble.
BRAND RUNNER-UP
Kolios Organic Bio

Feta, 2.79 for
200g, Abel & Cole
The panel rated
the salty bite of
this cheese, but
a lack of zing kept
it from the top
spot. Makes a good
milder choice.
SOMETHING
DIFFERENT
Galomizithra,
5.50 for 400g,
Maltby & Greek
Not strictly feta,
this soft cheese
from Crete won
rave reviews for its
velvety texture and
balanced taste.
you can
never
have too
many nuts
100%
s
nut !
Protein, energy, deliciousness: nuts have got it all. Thats why at

Meridian we go to such crazy lengths to pack as many nuts into our
nut butters as humanly possible.
meridian: nuts about nuts
favourites.
ALWAYS A WINNER
The fry-up
Whether youre feeling a little morning-after fragile or just
need a meal on the table fast, a fry-up always satises.
Weve revamped the British favourite with three easy,
moreish recipes that work at any time of the day
Two-potato,
pancetta and
parmesan hash, p28
RECIPES AND FOOD

STYLING ELLA TARN
PHOTOGRAPHS
CHARLIE RICHARDS
STYLING WEI TANG
Chicken fried rice

Chicken
fried rice
Day-old rice thats been

cooled, then chilled, or
ready-cooked rice from
a packet work best in this recipe.
FOOD
TEAMS
TIP
Groundnut oil for frying

3 banana shallots, finely chopped
4 British free-range chicken thigh
fillets, cut into 2cm chunks
1 tbsp clear honey
2 garlic cloves, crushed
Large thumb-size piece fresh
ginger, finely grated
1 small red chilli, deseeded and
finely chopped
2 large free-range eggs, lightly
beaten
250g cooked basmati rice (see tip)
1 tbsp soy sauce
1 tbsp fish sauce
150g frozen peas, defrosted
4 spring onions, finely sliced
Bunch fresh coriander, chopped
Toasted cashews and lime wedges
to serve
MORE
FIND
IDEAS ON THE
Two-potato, pancetta
and parmesan hash
delicious.
SERVES 2. HANDS-ON TIME 35 MIN, OVEN
For more fry-up

recipes visit
delicious
magazine.co.uk/
fryups
TIME 5 MIN
WEBSITE
NEXT
MONTH
A trio of spins on
the classic tatin
Olive oil for frying

onion, roughly chopped
2 garlic cloves, finely chopped
80g smoked pancetta cubes
250g (1 large) sweet potato, cut
into 2cm cubes
350g (2-3 medium) desire
potatoes, cut into 2cm cubes
1 tsp sweet smoked paprika
4 large free-range eggs
30g parmesan, finely grated
small bunch fresh flatleaf
parsley, chopped
1 Heat the oven to 210C/190C fan/
gas 6. Heat a glug of oil in a large
ovenproof frying pan over a mediumhigh heat and fry the onion and garlic
until soft, then add the pancetta
and fry for 5-10 minutes until
crisp. Remove from the pan with

a slotted spoon and set aside.
2 In the same pan, heat a large glug
of oil and fry both types of potato for
10-15 minutes until starting to soften
and crisp, stirring often. When the
potatoes are crisp on the outside
and soft on the inside, stir in the
paprika and return the onion, garlic
and pancetta to the pan. Season
well and stir. Remove from the heat.
3 Make 4 indents in the potatoes with
the back of a spoon, then crack in
the eggs. Scatter over the parmesan,
then put the pan in the oven for 5
minutes until the egg whites have
set but the yolks are still runny.
Scatter over the parsley to serve.
PER SERVING 784kcals, 41.3g fat
(12.8g saturated), 36g protein,
62.3g carbs (11.1g sugars), 2.5g salt,
10g fibre
WINE EDITORS CHOICE Go for
a decent Californian merlot or New
Zealand pinot noir.
1 Heat a glug of oil in a large wok

over a high heat and cook the
shallots until soft. Meanwhile put
the chicken in a medium mixing
bowl and coat it in the honey.
2 Add the garlic, ginger and chilli to
the shallot pan and cook for another
minute, stirring constantly, then add
the chicken and fry for 5-8 minutes
or until cooked through. Tip out onto
a plate and keep it to hand.
3 Tip the eggs into the pan, let them
set slightly, then stir until completely
cooked. Return everything to the pan,
add the rice and fry, stirring, for
2 minutes. Add the soy sauce, fish
sauce, peas and spring onions with
a pinch of black pepper, then fry for
2 minutes. Stir in the coriander,
scatter over some cashews and
serve with lime wedges.
(5.5g saturated), 49.8g protein,
6.8g fibre
WINE EDITORS CHOICE A sprightly,
cool white such as a Spanish verdejo
or South African sauvignon blanc.
favourites.
Crispy halloumi with

spicy pepper and
tomato salsa
SERVES 2-3. HANDS-ON TIME 35 MIN
FOOD
TEAMS
TIP
If you like heat, add a little

extra cayenne to the flour
you dip the halloumi into.
1 large free-range egg

3 tbsp plain flour, seasoned
with salt and pepper
50g panko or dried
breadcrumbs
160g halloumi, sliced into
6 x 1cm thick pieces
1 large onion, finely chopped
1 each red, orange and yellow
peppers, cut into 1cm strips
400g mixed colour cherry
tomatoes, halved
Pinch cayenne pepper
Small bunch fresh flatleaf
parsley, finely chopped
2-3 poached eggs, lemon wedges,
greek yogurt and toasted
sourdough to serve
1 Lightly beat the egg, then put, with

the flour and the breadcrumbs, into
3 separate shallow bowls. Dip the
halloumi into the flour, then the egg,
then breadcrumbs until evenly
coated, then set aside.
2 For the salsa, heat a glug of oil in a
large frying pan over a medium-high
heat and fry the onion and garlic
until soft, then add the peppers and
cook for 5 minutes. Add the tomatoes
and cayenne, then cook for 3 minutes.
Season, stir in the parsley, then set
aside in a warm place.
3 Heat a glug of oil in another pan
and fry the halloumi on both sides
for 2-3 minutes in total until golden
and crisp. Serve the halloumi on
top of the salsa with a poached
egg, lemon wedges, greek yogurt
and sourdough toast.
PER SERVING (FOR 3) 557kcals,
28.8g fat (12.1g saturated),26.5g
protein, 44.4g carbs (14.4g sugars),
1.8g salt, 7.4g fibre
WINE EDITORS CHOICE A cool
Belgian or German wheat beer.
For more ways to use halloumi,
see Loose Ends
TASTES LIKE HOME
I owe my lifelong love

of food to my mother
Nihari is a dish from the Mughals who once ruled India,

and its still popular today. Its eaten at celebrations such as
Eid al-Adha, the Muslim festival that marks the end of the
annual pilgrimage to Mecca and during which we make ritual
sacrices, known as qurbani. The meat from the sacriced
animals is usually given to the less privileged, so even the
poorest families can eat well at Eid al-Adha.
This is a family recipe. It brings back childhood memories of
going to my maternal grandfathers house, which was a big haveli, or mansion, in
a village called Pichokra, north of Delhi. They were wealthy landowners, known
as zamindars, in the days of the Raj and they employed four or ve cooks.
My mum, Ishrat, had never been allowed in the kitchen, so when she married
my father she didnt have a clue how to cook for herself. It must have been quite
a shock for her! But, once she had her own home and family to feed, she learned
fast and soon became an excellent cook. Her nihari is wonderful.
I owe my lifelong love of food to my mother. Were still close and this recipe
always makes me think of her. This year, Eid al-Adha begins on 10 September
Nihari lamb
SERVES 4-6. HANDS-ON TIME 35 MIN,
SIMMERING TIME 25-30 MIN
Make up to 24 hours ahead,

MAKE
AHEAD chill, then gently reheat and
scatter over the fresh herbs.
Freeze for up to 3 months, then
defrost before reheating as above.
FOOD Lamb leg can be tough if its
TEAMS even slightly overcooked.
TIPS
Diced lamb shoulder is a
good alternative but will need longer
cooking. Simmer it in the sauce for
about 2 hours (you may need to add
extra water) in step 2 until tender.
150ml sunflower oil
4 whole cloves
3-4 cardamom pods

1 fresh bay leaf
3 large white onions, finely
chopped
1kg British free-range lamb leg
steaks, cut into 4cm chunks
Thumb-size piece fresh ginger,
grated
1 tbsp mild chilli powder
1 tsp ground turmeric
100ml greek yogurt
300ml fresh lamb or chicken stock
50g butter
1 tbsp gram (chickpea) flour
tsp garam masala
Sliced green chillies, slivers of
fresh ginger, and chopped fresh
coriander and mint to serve
1 Heat the oil in a large deep frying

pan over a medium heat, then add
the cloves, cardamom and bay leaf
and let them crackle for a few
seconds. Add one quarter of the
onions and fry until golden, then add
the lamb and a pinch of salt and fry
for a few minutes.
2 Turn the heat down to a simmer,
add the ginger, garlic and a splash
of water, then mix. Stir in the
remaining onions, chilli powder and
turmeric. Cover and leave for 15-20
minutes over a low heat, stirring
occasionally. When the onions have
completely softened, add the yogurt
and cook for 5 minutes, then add the
stock and cook for another 5 minutes.
3 Put a sieve over a large bowl and
pour the pan contents into it to
strain out the liquid. Add the butter
to the now empty pan and, when
melted, whisk in the gram flour for
a minute or so until the mixture
thickens and forms a roux. Pour the
strained liquid back into the pan and
stir for a few minutes until the sauce
thickens slightly. Return the lamb
and other solids to the sauce and
stir in the garam masala. Serve with
a scattering of green chillies, ginger,
chopped coriander and mint.
41.1g fat (13.6g saturated), 38.7g
WINE EDITORS CHOICE If youre
serving wine, try a bottle of Chilean
carmenre. Otherwise, red fruit juice
such as pomegranate is best.
RECIPE: NAVED NASIR. FOOD PHOTOGRAPH: MAJA SMEND. FOOD STYLING: LUCY OREILLY. STYLING: LYDIA BRUN
Naved Nasir, executive chef of Londons hugely popular Dishoom restaurants, recalls an
Indian festival dish that brings back childhood memories of his mums wonderful cooking
food memories.
CURRYING FERVOUR
Naved (left) revered

his mother Ishrats
cooking, even
though she had a
steep learning curve
MAGIC MEMORY
Crispy aubergine
fries
Hold on to that
HOLIDAY FEELING!
RECIPES REBECCA WOOLLARD FOOD STYLING LOTTIE COVELL AND ELLA TARN
PHOTOGRAPHS GARETH MORGANS STYLING TONY HUTCHINSON
favourites.
Food and memory are closely

linked, and I suspect we all have at
least one dish weve eaten abroad
thats stayed with us a avour that,
whenever we taste it, sums up that
precious time away from the cares of
everyday life. When we asked you, via social media,
to tell us your favourite holiday dishes, we were
inundated with evocative memories and suggestions.
It was my task to interpret those dishes for this
feature, and the recipes have been a joy to re-create
I only hope Ive done your memories justice! There
were a couple of my own favourites among your
answers (soupe de poissons is one of my last-meal
dishes), as well as dishes I didnt know, which led to
some fun experimenting in the kitchen. Whichever you
choose to make, I hope they keep that all-important
holiday spirit alive.
REBECCA WOOLLARD, FOOD EDITOR
Aubergine fries with

balsamic drizzle from
Marbella, Spain
The aubergines can be

MAKE salted up to 6 hours ahead.
AHEAD
Make the batter 2 hours
ahead, then rest it in the fridge.
ar e
a,
pain
PLUS SALTING
CHOSEN BY DEBBIE COLLINS

I visit Marbella
every summer with
my family. Its full
of good, proper
restaurants, but
some nights you just want to
chuck on some ip-ops and
head to the local chiringuito
(beach caf). Our favourite
is Kala Kalua. We take a table
on the sand so the children can
play while the adults soak up
the last of the sun and drink
sangra. The food highlight is
the aubergine fries. We ordered
them by accident the rst time,
but theyre now a must-have
along with seafood paella.
I dont normally like aubergine,
but these fries are light, crisp
not greasy and drizzled in
the most delicious balsamic
glaze. Theyre gobbled up as
the sun tucks itself to bed on
the horizon. One plate of them
is never enough.
3 medium aubergines, trimmed

and sliced into 1cm thick batons
1 tbsp salt
1 medium free-range egg
250ml iced water
90g plain flour
tsp baking powder
1 litre sunflower oil for deep-frying
Balsamic glaze to serve
YOULL ALSO NEED
Digital probe thermometer

1 Put the aubergine batons in a
colander and sprinkle over the salt.
Set over a bowl, then put in the
fridge for 1 hour so the aubergines
release some of their juices and firm
up. When ready, lay them out on
kitchen paper, cover with more
paper, blot firmly, then rub them
to remove excess salt. Set aside.
2 For the batter, whisk the egg and
iced water in a large bowl using a
balloon whisk until frothy. Sift the
flour and baking powder into a mixing
bowl with a pinch of salt, then slowly
pour the egg mixture in a thin stream
into the flour, whisking to combine.

Stop whisking as soon as the batter
comes together (if you whisk too
much it will become heavy).
3 Heat 6-7cm oil in a large deep
saut pan or wide frying pan. Once
it reaches 180C when tested with
a digital thermometer, lower the heat
but keep it around that temperature.
Dip the aubergine batons into the
batter in batches, removing with
a slotted spoon once lightly coated.
Transfer immediately to the hot oil
and cook for 4-5 minutes until
golden and crisp. Remove with the
slotted spoon to a kitchen paperlined tray, then continue with the
remaining fries keep the cooked
fries warm in a low oven if you like.
4 Once theyre all done, drizzle with
balsamic glaze to serve.
WINE EDITORS CHOICE Crack open
a dry Spanish rosado (ros) it can
take on the balsamic glaze.
to do it properly. If you finish

and your soup is still thin,
start sieving again.
Soupe de poissons
from Marseille, France
SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME 1 HOUR,
SIMMERING TIME 2-2 HOURS
CHOSEN BY TIM CHAMBERS

Im instantly
taken back to the
south of France
when I think about
soupe de poissons.
My wifes uncle is from
Marseille, so weve spent lots of
time there. Its a strange thing to
crave in the hot sun of Provence,
but the combination of sh
(normally bass or gurnard) with
saffron is perfect. All it needs is
a cool glass of local ros. Sant!
Keep the soup chilled for
MAKE
AHEAD up to 48 hours or freeze
for up to 1 month. Heat to
simmering to serve. The rouille will
keep in the fridge for 5 days.
The Marine Conservation
FOOD
TEAMS Society currently lists wild
TIPS
sea bass as to be avoided.
Ask the fishmonger whats
sustainable and affordable.
For a shortcut rouille, whizz good
quality bought mayo with the chilli,
garlic, breadcrumbs and saffron.
This soup is traditionally put
through a food mill (mouli). If, like
us, you dont have one, use a metal
sieve and ladle. Work the mixture
through the sieve, in small amounts,
until only dry, thick solids, with bits
of bone and skin, remain (whats
made it through will thicken the
soup). It took us about 30 minutes
Large splash olive oil

1 small leek, finely chopped
1 celery stick, finely
chopped
1 small fennel bulb, finely
chopped
5 garlic cloves, chopped
Large pinch saffron strands
tsp chilli flakes
2 glugs pastis or dry
vermouth, plus extra
3 tbsp tomato pure
500ml passata
1 bouquet garni (a bay leaf, parsley
and thyme sprigs, tied with string)
2kg inexpensive, non-oily fish (we
used gurnard, snapper and bream),
scaled, gutted and filleted ask
the fishmonger to give you the
skeletons and heads, too
Squeeze of lemon juice to season
FOR THE ROUILLE (OR SEE TIPS)
1 red chilli
1 tbsp white wine vinegar
2 free-range egg yolks
290ml light olive oil/sunflower oil
3 tbsp fresh breadcrumbs
Pinch saffron strands, soaked
in 1 tbsp hot water for 10 minutes
Squeeze lemon juice
Toasted baguette slices and
grated gruyre cheese to serve
1 Heat the olive oil in a large pan
over a medium heat, then add the
onion, leek, celery and fennel. Cook,
stirring often, until softened but not
coloured. Add the garlic, saffron and
chilli, then cook for 5 minutes more
or until fragrant. Pour in the pastis/
vermouth and bubble briefly until
the raw alcohol smell disappears.
2 Add the tomato pure and bubble
for 2 minutes, then add the passata
with some salt and the bouquet
garni, stir to combine and cook for
5-8 minutes. Pour in 2 litres cold
water, add the fish heads, skeletons
and fillets, stir together and bring
to a gentle simmer. Cook, without
stirring, for 2-2 hours until the fish

has completely broken down and the
liquid has reduced by almost half.
3 For the rouille, either hold the
chilli directly in the flame of a gas
hob until blistered all over or put it
under a hot grill. Once blackened,
put in a plastic bag or bowl covered
with cling film for 5 minutes. The
skin should peel off easily. Discard
the seeds, then roughly chop.
4 To make the rouille, put the chilli,
vinegar, egg yolks, garlic and some
salt into a food processor or mixing
bowl. Either whizz in the processor
or beat with an electric hand mixer
until combined and starting to pale.
With the motor running, carefully
trickle some oil into the mixture.
Dont add it too quickly or the
mixture wont thicken. After about a
minute, it should thicken into mayo;
if it doesnt, stop adding oil and
whisk until it does.
5 Still processing/beating, slowly
add the rest of the oil (if the rouille
starts to look greasy, add a splash
of water). Once all the oil has been
added, beat in the breadcrumbs and
the saffron with its soaking water,
then taste. The rouille may need
more salt or a squeeze of lemon
juice. Cover and set aside.
6 Pour the cooked soup, in batches,
through a fine sieve into another
pan, pressing it through with the
back of a metal spoon (or you can
use a food mill if you have one see
tips). Discard the remaining solids
(see tips). Heat until steaming, then
add a final glug of pastis/vermouth.
Taste and season, adding lemon
juice and salt if needed. The flavour
should be rich and intense.
7 To serve, ladle the soup into bowls
and sprinkle with grated gruyre.
Serve with bowls of rouille and
toasted baguette, encouraging
people to spread the rouille on the
toast before dipping it into the soup.
29g carbs (9.8g sugars), 1.5g salt,
5.6g fibre
WINE EDITORS CHOICE As Tim
suggests, a southern French dry
ros is perfect with this.
favourites.
menu that started with bagna

cauda, an Italian dish, but one
that will always remind me of
Barcelona. The creamy,
garlicky fondue, rich with
savoury anchovies, was kept
warm over a tealight and
came with raw, crunchy veg
for dipping. Chicory is best
for scooping.
If youre blending the
MAKE
AHEAD bagna cauda you can
make it up to 2 hours
ahead. Keep at room temperature
and warm just before serving. If
youre not planning to blend it,
its best made just before serving
or it might split.
Bagna cauda from

a Mediterranean
restaurant in Barcelona
SERVES 4. HANDS ON TIME 30 MIN,
SIMMERING TIME 30-35 MIN
CHOSEN BY ALICE WHEELER

I went with
my husband to
Barcelona in
2013 for a short
break. While
exploring, we discovered Pla
De La Garsa, a charming
restaurant with a tasting
6 garlic cloves
200ml whole milk
90g salted anchovy fillets the
best you can buy
50g unsalted butter
100ml extra-virgin olive oil
50ml double cream
Crudits to dip a mix of raw
tenderstem broccoli, chicory,
peppers, carrots and fennel
Crusty bread to serve
1 Put the garlic in a small pan
with the milk and heat gently
until steaming dont let it boil.
Half-cover the pan and simmer
gently for 30-35 minutes until the
garlic is soft. Remove from the
heat and mash the garlic into the
milk. Return to the heat, add the
anchovies and let them dissolve,
stirring. Once smooth, add the
butter and olive oil, stirring to
combine and emulsify. Finally,
add the cream, taste and season.
2 Either pour into warmed bowls
and serve, or blend until smooth
(see Make Ahead). Serve with the
raw vegetables and bread, using
them to scoop up the sauce.
3.1g fibre
WINE EDITORS CHOICE Tangy,
crisp muscadet or picpoul de
pinet, or a cold, bone-dry sherry.
Chicken basteeya from

Marrakech, Morocco
SERVES 6-8. HANDS-ON TIME 1 HOUR,
SIMMERING TIME 30 MIN, OVEN TIME 30 MIN
CHOSEN BY KAREN CROWTHER

Two years ago
Marrakech was the
destination for our
family holiday. We
were determined to
experience the culture and food
to the full, so on our 26th
wedding anniversary we
ventured to the medina to enjoy
a traditional meal in a riad - a
Moroccan house with a
courtyard. Dinner involved
many courses of traditional food
and drinks, accompanied by
music. The star of the show,
however, was an amazing
chicken pie. Nothing like
a British chicken pie, this one
was fragrant, slightly sweet and
wrapped in lo pastry.
The pie will keep in the
MAKE
AHEAD fridge for 24 hours. Bring to
room temperature or warm
through in a medium oven to serve,
then sprinkle with icing sugar and
cinnamon at the last minute.
Basteeya is meant to be
KNOW- savoury and slightly sweet,
HOW
but if you dont think youll
like the icing sugar, leave it out.
125g unsalted butter
8 British free-range chicken thighs
2 onions, finely sliced
Large thumb-size piece fresh
ginger, finely grated
tsp ground turmeric
2 tsp ground coriander
1 tsp ground cumin
tsp paprika (not smoked)
1 tsp ground cinnamon, plus extra
100g blanched almonds, chopped
2 tbsp icing sugar, plus extra (see
Know-how)
50g sultanas
Zest 1 lemon and juice
3 medium free-range eggs, beaten
Small bunch fresh flatleaf
parsley, leaves roughly chopped
favourites.
Small bunch fresh coriander,

roughly chopped
5-6 filo pastry sheets
YOULL ALSO NEED
23cm loose-bottomed cake tin

1 Melt 50g of the butter in a large,
deep frying pan over a medium heat.
When hot, season the chicken with
salt and add to the pan, skin-side
down, then fry for 5-6 minutes until
deep golden on the underside. Flip
the chicken and fry for another
minute or so, then remove from the
pan and set aside.
2 Turn down the heat and add the
onions, stirring for 5-6 minutes until
softened but not coloured. Add the
garlic and ginger, then fry for 2
minutes. Add the spices, then fry,
stirring, for another 3-4 minutes.
Put the chicken back in the pan,
then pour in 400ml water. Bring to
a brisk simmer, partially cover the
pan and cook for 30 minutes. Remove
the chicken to a plate and leave until
cool enough to handle.
3 Bring the liquid in the pan to the
boil and reduce for 5-10 minutes until
it begins to thicken when you drag a
spoon through, the liquid should stay
parted for a second before coming
together. Turn off the heat and leave
to cool for 10 minutes, then stir
in the almonds, icing sugar (see
Know-how), sultanas, lemon zest
and juice, and finally the eggs to give
a smooth sauce that coats the back
of a spoon easily.
4 Transfer the sauce to a large bowl.
Remove and discard the chicken skin
and bones, then shred the meat into
the sauce. Stir in the herbs, taste

and season accordingly it should
taste quite sweet and spiced. Set
aside to cool completely.
5 Once cool, melt the remaining 75g
butter and heat the oven to 200C/
180C fan/gas 6. Brush the cake tin
with melted butter. Brush one sheet
of filo with melted butter, then lay it
over the tin, buttered-side up, and
push it into the tin to line it, leaving
an overhang. Repeat with the next
sheet, laying it at a different angle,
then keep going so the cake tin is
well lined with filo. Spoon the filling
into the filo case and pack it in, then
fold over the overhanging filo to
enclose it. You may need an extra

sheet of filo, folded to fill any gap.
Brush the pie with more melted
butter, then put the tin on a baking
tray and cook in the oven for 30
minutes until the pastry is golden.
Remove, leave to stand for 20
minutes, then remove from the tin.
Sift over a little cinnamon and icing
sugar (see Know-how), then serve.
WINE EDITORS CHOICE A mellow
red, such as a corbires or southern
French syrah, cuts it with this.
favourites.
tomatoes offset by the rich,

creamy cheese piled on top of
delicious fresh pasta a perfect
start to a memorable trip.
CHOSEN BY OLIVER BUTLER

Before my wife
and I married, our
rst trip away
together was to
Florence. Our rst
meal was a quick lunch in the
square outside our hotel. With a
glass of ros in hand and a view
of the Basilica Santa Maria
Novella, I couldnt resist a bowl
of fresh pasta with burrata. In
addition to the setting, what
really sticks in my mind about
this meal was the wonderful
simplicity of the dish: the
sweetness of the cherry
Burrata is a type of
KNOW- mozzarella made in Puglia
HOW
in southern Italy, with extra
cream added to the centre of the
cheese. It melts beautifully into hot
pasta. Find it in delis and at Waitrose.
Alternatively you could use a good
quality buffalo mozzarella; for extra
luxury, add a splash of double
cream to it.
The burrata and the
FOOD
TEAMS tomatoes should be at room
TIPS
temperature, so give the
burrata at least an hour out of the
fridge. If you cant find fresh
orecchiette, use any fresh short
pasta shape you like.
Orecchiette with burrata,

tomatoes and garlic
from Florence, Italy
1 Heat the olive oil in a large frying

pan and, when warm, add the garlic
and chilli. Cook for 3-4 minutes,
stirring often, over a low-medium
heat dont colour the garlic. Add
the tomatoes with some salt, turn
the heat to medium-high, then cook,
stirring frequently, for 6-7 minutes
until the tomatoes are beginning to
split and break down. Taste the
sauce and add lemon if needed.
2 Cook the pasta in plenty of salted,
boiling water for 3-4 minutes until al
dente. Drain, then add to the tomato
pan and toss until until well coated.
Tear the burrata on top of the pasta,
briefly stir, then divide between
bowls, scatter with plenty of basil
leaves and serve immediately.
5.6g fibre
WINE EDITORS CHOICE Light dry
whites all the way here best of
all an Italian soave or lugana.
ADDITIONAL PHOTOS: ISTOCK

2 garlic cloves, thinly sliced
1 small dried chilli, finely chopped
(or a large pinch chilli flakes)
200g very ripe cherry tomatoes
Juice lemon (optional)
250g fresh orecchiette (see tips)
200g ball burrata (see
Know-how)
Fresh basil leaves to garnish
Ever so slightly
The Spiralizer.
Swap spaghetti for courgetti.
Amaze your friends.
Surprise your guests.
Fool your kids.
69 stores nationwide lakeland.co.uk
STAR OF THE SEASON
MELONS
Melons are so often disappointingly bland,

but when you get a ripe one theres nothing
better. The esh tastes perfumed, sweet and, in
the latter stages of ripeness, just a little boozy.
Its redolent of summer breakfasts, shaded
lunches and frozen cocktails in short, its the taste of
holidays. Melons are versatile too; whether youre chopping
them into salads, serving them with parma ham (a classic) or
simply whizzing and chilling them for the worlds easiest
pudding, theyre a proper treat that should be enjoyed to the
full while the fruit is at its best. And thats now
RECIPES AND WORDS REBECCA WOOLLARD

PHOTOGRAPHS ALEX LUCK
FOOD STYLING LOTTIE COVELL STYLING LUIS PERAL
whats good now.
WHAT TO LOOK OUT FOR

Pick melons that are heavy for their size and feel firm but not rock-hard when
squeezed gently. A quick sniff at the stalk or base of a galia or cantaloupe
should give you another hint as to whether the fruit is good for eating: perfectly
ripe ones will have a gentle waft of melon, underripe ones wont smell at all
and those past their best will be quite pungent.
FIVE QUICK FIXES
STARTER TO SHARE Arrange

slices of melon on a platter with
Italian or Spanish cured ham, torn
fresh mint leaves and buffalo
mozzarella. Drizzle with olive oil and
balsamic vinegar, then scatter over
some chilli flakes to serve.
FROZEN COCKTAIL Freeze
chunks of melon, then whizz
them in a blender with a hefty shot
of white rum or vodka and the juice
of a couple of limes. Pour into frozen
glasses that have had their rims
rubbed with lime juice and dipped in
sugar, then serve immediately.
DESSERT SOUP Blend

cantaloupe melon flesh until
smooth. Pass through a fine sieve,
pressing it with the back of a spoon,
then chill. Serve in bowls, topped
with some chopped fresh summer
fruit and torn fresh mint or basil
leaves, with homemade biscuits on
the side for dunking.
HEALTHY BREKKIE Top slices
of melon with thick greek yogurt
and homemade granola.
ICE LOLLIES Whizz melon flesh
in a blender until smooth, then
pour into ice lolly moulds and freeze.
4
5
Turn the page for two gorgeously fruity recipes
Watermelon, feta, herb

and peanut salad with
hot & sour dressing
TEAM
FAVOURITE
Phoebe Stone,
editorial and
features
assistant
I am not a salad
fan, but this one
has converted
me. The sweet,
thirst-quenching
watermelon with
the salty feta
and hot-sour
dressing is
a killer combo.
SERVES 4-6. HANDS-ON TIME 30 MIN
Small bunch fresh basil, leaves

picked and roughly chopped
2 handfuls salted roasted
peanuts, roughly chopped
FOR THE SALAD
FOR THE DRESSING
1 small watermelon, chopped

into thin slices
1 large cucumber, halved
lengthways, deseeded and sliced
diagonally into half moons
200g feta, crumbled
Small bunch fresh mint, leaves
picked and roughly chopped
Small bunch fresh coriander,
leaves picked and roughly chopped
2 tbsp chilli jam (we used

Tracklements)
Finely grated zest 1 lime and juice 2
4 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil
1 Toss all the salad ingredients

together in a large bowl, reserving
a few of the peanuts to scatter later.
2 To make the dressing, combine
the chilli jam, lime zest and juice
and the olive oil in a small bowl or

jug, then taste and season.
3 Toss most of the dressing through
the salad, then transfer to a large
serving platter. Scatter over the
reserved peanuts, then drizzle over
the rest of the dressing. Leave the
salad to sit for a couple of minutes
to absorb the flavours, then serve.
17.2g fat (6.2g saturated), 8g protein,
15.9g carbs (15.3g sugars), 1g salt,
1.1g fibre
WINE EDITORS CHOICE Pour a cold,
crisp, bone-dry white a lean picpoul
de pinet or vermentino, for example.
whats good now.
Melon and gin granita

with fennel biscuits
SERVES 6. HANDS-ON TIME 15 MIN,
PLUS CHILLING AND FREEZING
The granita will keep in the

MAKE freezer for up to 1 week.
AHEAD
The cooled biscuits will
keep in an airtight tin for 2-3 days or
in the freezer in bags for a month.
Remove the granita 20-30
FOOD
TEAMS minutes before serving to
TIPS
soften, then fluff up with a
fork. Make sure the melon is really
ripe it can even be overripe, as the
slightly fermented flavour stands up
well to freezing. Swap the gin with
vodka or white rum, or omit it. If you
dont like fennel, omit it or add 1 tsp
vanilla extract instead.
FOR THE GRANITA
3 ripe cantaloupe melons, seeds

removed (see tips)
50ml gin, plus extra (see tips)
Juice 1 lime, plus extra
A few pinches sugar (optional)
Fresh basil leaves to decorate
FOR THE BISCUITS

125g caster sugar
3 medium free-range egg yolks
150g plain flour
1 tsp fennel seeds (see tips)
1 To make the granita, scoop the
melon flesh into a food processor,
then blend with the gin and lime
juice until almost smooth. Taste; you
may want a splash more gin or lime
juice, or a little sugar.
2 Pour the mixture into a shallow
freezerproof container, then freeze.
Every hour, mix it with a fork, pulling
the ice crystals into the centre, until
frozen but slushy (about 3-4 times).
3 To make the biscuits, cream the
butter and sugar in a bowl with a
wooden spoon. Beat in the yolks,
then add the flour with
a pinch of salt and
the fennel seeds.
Beat to form a
stiff dough. Wrap
in cling film, then
chill for 30 minutes.

gas 4 and line 2 baking sheets with
non-stick baking paper. Divide the
dough into 20-25 small balls, then
space them out on the baking sheets
and flatten to around 0.5cm thick.
Press a fork onto the tops to
decorate, then bake for 15 minutes
or until pale golden and beginning to
crisp. Set aside for 10 minutes, then
transfer to wire racks to cool.
5 Spoon the granita into small bowls
or glasses (see tips), decorate with
basil, then serve with a few biscuits.
5.5g fibre
For more ways to use gin (besides
the obvious), see Loose Ends
NEXT
MONTH
Parsnips get the
recognition they
deserve
THE CHEFFY MENU

YOU CAN EASILY
COOK AT HOME
PHOTOGRAPHS TOBY SCOTT FOOD STYLING LOTTIE COVELL AND ELLA TARN STYLING WEI TANG
September signals the start of my favourite

season for ingredients: autumn. Dishes take on a new
style more homely, comforting and a little more
adventurous. Its a season when avours are bold, so
you have to use ingredients wisely. The dishes Ive
created here give a nod to the coming winter months, without
forgetting that summer has only just gone by. Its a menu with
plenty of sophistication but fear not its do-able. SIMON HULSTONE
the menu.
POSH MENU FOR 4

Crab on toasted spelt bread with
soft boiled eggs and salsa verde
%
Beef llet with sherry vinegar
and shallot jus
Soy glazed baby beetroot
Caramelised turnip pure
%
Chocolate truffle pots
with caramel sauce
Beef fillet thats

a cut above (p47),
with Simons superior
side dishes
GROWN UP EGG ON TOAST
Crab and a fresh

herby salsa take it
to a new level
the menu.
Crab on toasted spelt

bread with soft boiled
eggs and salsa verde
Prep the crab up to 12 hours

MAKE in advance and keep in the
AHEAD
fridge. Please note though:
if prepping ahead, its important to
make sure your crab is very fresh.
4 medium free-range eggs (we
like Clarence Court)
4-8 slices (depending on size)
spelt and honey bread or similar,
plus 1 slice extra if needed
FOR THE WHITE CRABMEAT
200g fresh handpicked white

crabmeat
50g fresh mayonnaise
50g fresh chives, finely chopped
FOR THE BROWN CRABMEAT
200g fresh brown crabmeat

Finely grated zest 1 lemon
FOR THE SALSA VERDE
1 garlic clove, chopped

50g fresh flatleaf parsley, roughly
chopped
25g fresh tarragon, roughly
chopped
25g fresh basil, roughly chopped
25g capers in brine, rinsed and
chopped
5 anchovies in oil, drained and
roughly chopped
75ml best quality extra-virgin
olive oil
Juice 1 lemon
1 For the white crabmeat mixture,
check the white meat for any small
pieces of cartilage and shell
(remove and discard). Put the meat
in a small bowl. Mix in the
mayonnaise and chives, season to
taste, then cover and put in the
fridge (see Make Ahead).
2 For the brown crabmeat, put the
brown meat into a blender with the
lemon zest and some salt and
pepper, then whizz until smooth.
If the mixture seems very wet, add
a slice of the bread, then blend
to a consistency that holds its shape
Soy glazed
baby beetroot,
p48
without being too dry. Pass through

a sieve to ensure the mixture is
smooth, then spoon into a bowl,
cover with cling film and put in
the fridge (see Make Ahead).
3 Bring a large pan of water to the
boil and carefully drop in the eggs.
Boil for 6 minutes, then drain and
refresh under cold running water
for 2 minutes. Allow the eggs to cool
for 10 minutes, then gently peel.
4 For the salsa verde, mix the garlic,
parsley, tarragon, basil, capers and
anchovies together in a bowl, add
the olive oil and the lemon juice, mix
together well and season to taste.
5 Toast and halve the spelt bread,
then spoon on the brown crabmeat,
followed by the white crabmeat. Top
with quartered runny eggs and the
salsa and eat straightaway.
(5g saturated), 33.6g protein,
2.4g fibre
Beef llet with sherry

vinegar and shallot jus
TIME 20-25 MIN
Make the jus up to 12 hours

MAKE ahead and chill. Warm gently
AHEAD
on the hob before serving.
If you cant find veal stock,
FOOD
TEAMS good quality fresh beef
TIP
stock will be fine. Buy the
best you can find or use homemade.
800g British free-range beef fillet
Olive oil for brushing
FOR THE JUS

2 large shallots, finely chopped
1 garlic clove, finely chopped
1 fresh thyme sprig
25ml sherry vinegar
100ml sweet (rich) madeira
500ml veal stock or good quality
fresh beef stock(see tip)
MEET THE CHEF
Simon Hulstone
and his wife Katy
run the Michelinstarred Elephant
restaurant in
Torquay, Devon.
Simon is a former
Roux Scholar,
has worked in
top restaurants
throughout
Europe and
has appeared on
the BBCs Great
British Menu. Hes
a champion of
local seafood and
produce much
of the latter from
the restaurants
69-acre farm in
South Devon.
WINE PICKS
By Susy Atkins,
drinks editor
For the crab

toasts, pick
a lemon-tinged
sauvignon
blanc/semillon
blend from
Bordeaux.
Choose an
Italian wine for
the beef and
those sides;
a Tuscan
sangiovese red
such as a chianti
riserva or
a brunello has
just the right
flavours and
structure. And
as a real treat
with the
chocolate pots,
pour an Aussie
sweet semillon
or a luscious
Hungarian
Tokaji, lightly
chilled.
1 To make the jus, heat a glug of oil

in a medium saucepan over a
medium heat and cook the shallots
and garlic for 8-10 minutes until the
shallots are translucent. Add the
thyme and sherry vinegar, then cook
for about 5 minutes until the liquid
has completely evaporated. Add
the madeira and reduce again for
a further 3-4 minutes until almost
completely evaporated. Add the veal
or beef stock and cook for 15-20
minutes to reduce by two thirds,
then remove the thyme sprig,
season to taste and set aside.
gas 6. Lightly brush the beef fillet
with olive oil and season well
with salt and pepper. Heat a large
non-stick pan over a high heat until
starting to smoke, then sear the beef
on all sides for about 3-4 minutes
until beginning to caramelise.
3 Put the beef in a roasting tray
and cook in the oven for about
20 minutes for rare or 25 minutes
for medium-rare. Rest the beef on
a board, loosely covered in foil, for
10 minutes before serving. While
the beef is resting, gently re-warm
the jus over a low heat. Slice the
beef and serve with the side dishes,
with some jus poured over.
0.7g fibre
Olive oil for roasting

100g watercress to serve
gas 6. Line a baking tray with foil
and put in the beetroot. Add the soy
sauce, star anise, cloves, thyme
sprigs, garlic and a good drizzle of
olive oil, then pour in 100ml water
and toss the beetroot to coat. Wrap
foil over the tin and roast the beetroot
for 60 minutes. Test whether the
beetroot are tender by poking the
tip of a sharp knife into one.
2 Remove the beetroot from the tin,
setting aside the cooking juices. Put
the watercress into a medium bowl
and, when ready to serve, dress with
the reserved cooking juices from the
beetroot. Serve both in bowls for
guests to help themselves to.
3.2g fibre
Caramelised
turnip pure
SERVES 4 WITH LEFTOVERS. HANDS-ON
TIME 30 MIN
Make up to 12 hours in
MAKE advance and keep covered
AHEAD
in the fridge. Gently warm
over a low heat just before serving.
When youre making the
FOOD
TEAMS caramel in step 2, let it turn
TIP
a little darker than you
usually would for a sweet dish, or it

may be too sweet. Youre looking for
a deep brick-red colour.
500g turnips, peeled and
finely sliced
1 garlic clove, crushed
100g caster sugar
100ml double cream
20ml sherry vinegar
1 Melt the butter in a large pan over
a medium heat. Add the turnip slices
and gently cook for 10 minutes until
they start to turn golden, stirring
often and taking care not to let them
burn. Keep turning them and let the
butter slowly turn nut brown, adding
the garlic for the final 2 minutes.
2 When the turnip slices are really
soft, transfer them to a bowl. Clean
and dry the pan, then add the sugar.
Allow it to melt into a dark caramel
(about 3-4 minutes; see tip), then
add the cream and mix well be
careful as it may spit. Return the
turnips to the pan and stir until well
combined. Pour into a blender and
whizz until smooth, then return to
the saucepan. Add the sherry
vinegar, then taste and season.
Serve a couple of spoonfuls on
plates, topped with the beef and jus.
15.1g carbs (15g sugars), 0.1g salt,
1.6g fibre

TIME 60 MIN
If you cant find baby

beetroot, use 4 regular size
beetroot and cut them into
4cm chunks (wear rubber gloves).
FOOD
TEAMS
TIP
16 baby beetroot, peeled and

halved (see tip)
50ml soy sauce (we recommend
Kikkoman)
1 star anise
2 cloves
4 fresh thyme sprigs
1 garlic clove, still in
its skin
WIN! A FOOD LOVERS GETAWAY FOR TWO TO DEVON

Weve teamed up with Kikkoman Soy Sauce (which Simon Hulstone
uses as a seasoning for the beetroot dish and the chocolate truffle
pots) to offer you the chance to win a dinner for two, with wine, to
the value of 200 at Simons fabulous Michelin-starred restaurant,
The Elephant in Torquay (elephantrestaurant.co.uk). Youll also enjoy
an overnight stay at the luxurious Cary Arms hotel (caryarms.co.uk)
in nearby Babbacombe. To enter the competition and for full Ts&Cs, visit
deliciousmagazine.co.uk/promotions.
WITH THANKS TO NATOORA.CO.UK FOR PROVIDING THE BEETROOT FOR THE SHOOT
Soy-glazed baby
beetroot
the menu.
Chocolate truffle pots

with caramel sauce
The pots and sauce will

MAKE keep chilled for up to 24
AHEAD
hours. To serve, bring the
truffle pots to room temperature
and warm the caramel in a pan.
The melted chocolate,
FOOD
TEAMS whisked eggs and whipped
TIP
cream must all be at a
similar temperature when mixed to
prevent the chocolate from seizing.
150g dark chocolate
3 medium free-range egg yolks,
at room temperature
75g caster sugar
300ml double cream (not chilled)
FOR THE CARAMEL SAUCE
100g caster sugar

10g liquid glucose (from the
baking section of supermarkets)
50ml double cream, plus

a little extra (optional)
1 tsp soy sauce (we recommend
Kikkoman)
British goats milk vanilla ice
cream to serve (optional)
1 Melt the chocolate in a heatproof
bowl over a pan of barely simmering
water (dont let the water touch the
bowl), then set aside until lukewarm.
2 Mix the yolks and sugar with
a wooden spoon in a medium
heatproof bowl. Sit the bowl on
the pan of simmering water and,
using an electric hand mixer, beat
until the mixture is thick and
voluminous, and the beaters leave
a trail when you lift them out.
3 In a large mixing bowl, whip the
cream using an electric mixer until
thick and voluminous as above it
should be very softly moussey.
4 When all three items are ready
(see tip), add the egg mixture to the
chocolate and mix thoroughly

with a metal spoon, then gradually
fold in the whipped cream, ensuring
its completely incorporated. Pour
into small serving glasses/pots
and put in the fridge to set for
2 hours or overnight.
5 To make the sauce, pour 100ml
cold water into a medium saucepan,
then add the sugar and liquid
glucose. Bring very slowly to the
boil and cook until dark brown (dont
let it burn), then whisk in the cream
be careful, it may spit and
remove from the heat. The caramel
will thicken as it cools. If its too
thick, add a bit more cream. Add the
soy sauce and mix in, then cool.
6 Serve the truffle pots with the
sauce drizzled over and, if you like,
scoops of goats milk ice cream.
1.2g fibre
NEXT
MONTH
Your field-toplate harvest
festival menu
Sharing food is at the

Food has the power to feed, nourish and unite. Ramona Andrews reports from Bristol,
where she talks to women at a lunch held by 91 Ways, an organisation thats bringing
together people from around the world with sometimes life-changing results
REPORTAGE PHOTOGRAPHS JOSEPH TURP RECIPES ELLA SHAH/SHIV SAMA, SUSAN ARAFEH, NEGAT HUSSEIN,
AZZA MUSTAFA FOOD PHOTOGRAPHS MAJA SMEND FOOD STYLING LUCY OREILLY STYLING LYDIA BRUN
people.
Ive just arrived at a lunch hosted

by the Bristol Hindu Temple and
the kitchen is a urry of activity.
A team of cooks, some from the temple,
some volunteers, are peeling potatoes,
chopping cauliower and rolling out
dough. The spicy aromas of the cooking
waft into the community hall where
rows of tables are being laid. On the
tables are cards asking guests to share
details about their backgrounds and
their food memories.
The lunch is organised by 91 Ways
To Build A Global City (see p52). Its
name might be a bit of a mouthful,
but the premise is simple: bring people
of different backgrounds together
to share food and to build bridges
between communities that would
otherwise not have met.
As 91 Ways founder Kalpna Woolf
puts it, Food is a calling card. It doesnt
have an agenda. When people share
food, theyre happy to talk about their
heritage, and their likes and dislikes
around that. It opens a door.
The hall has a lively, party
atmosphere, lled with the chattering
voices of guests, including those from
local charity Refugee Women of Bristol.
The women are being swamped by
schoolchildren, whove also been
invited along for an unusually tasty
food education.
The 91 Ways name comes from
the number of languages known
to be spoken in Bristol. Kalpna set
up the organisation in 2015, aided
by funding from Europe (Bristol
was European Green Capital last
year) with the aim of connecting
as many of the different language
communities in the city as possible.
Among the sound of laughter,
I can hear conversations in Urdu,
Arabic and Spanish, stirring up the
air and mixing like the ingredients
of a rich, simmering broth. When
Kalpna later tallied up the number
of languages spoken that day it came
to a grand 25, including Shona
(a Zimbabwean language), Quechua
(a language native to Bolivia, Ecuador
and Peru), Mandarin and Creole.
As lunch is plated up, women from

the refugee charity, schoolchildren
and the Temples hosts talk to each
other about what theyre eating and
what they like to cook at home. It
becomes clear just how important this
event is. Many of the Muslim guests
could never have imagined setting
foot in a Hindu temple before.
I overhear a Syrian and an Egyptian
woman comparing their version of the
Middle Eastern fava bean dish, ful
medames. One of the schoolchildren
reluctantly tries some cauliower curry
and concedes that its delicious.
Bringing people together through
food is something we can all relate to,
Food is a calling card.

It doesnt have an
agenda. When people
share food, theyre
happy to talk about
their heritage, likes and
dislikes. It opens a door
but its particularly important for
temple-goers. The notion of prasad an
offering of food made to a deity in the
temple thats then distributed to
worshippers is central to the Hindu
belief system.
As Kalpna says, Some of the women
here today have been through a lot.
They want to integrate, they want to be
part of Bristol. They come to our events
and they feel wanted and empowered.
We feel, and many people in our city
tell us, that the work we are doing is
a must-have and not a nice-to-have.
Our communities and people feel
disconnected from each other, which
leads to people dening each other
by their differences rather than their
similarities. When we bring people
together, people nd common
ground and walk away understanding
their similarities.
Sharing food and hospitality is at the
heart of so many communities and
cultures and here, today, that hospitality
is on brilliant, avoursome display.
Turn the page to meet the cooks and discover their recipes
MEET THE COOK Ella Shah, Kenya

When I came to the UK from Mombasa in
1972, there was a lot of discrimination, so you
couldnt get jobs easily. People would notice
mistakes in your English, and the way you
spoke. Back then it was hard to nd
vegetarian food. When I was in Kenya, if any
non-vegetarian dish was around, I couldnt
stand the smell, but Ive learned to tolerate
meat-eating. My parents are Jains and dont
eat potatoes we get our carbs mostly from
lentils, chickpeas and mung beans. This
chana is very like what we cook at home.
Ella and the other volunteers cooked this recipe
for chana masala, which came from another
temple volunteer, Shiv Sama.
91 WAYS: HOW YOU CAN GET INVOLVED

O SHARE
YOUR FOOD
STORIES If you live in
the Bristol area, you
can get involved with 91
Ways by attending their
pop-up International
Peace Cafe and other
events. The organisation
is also collecting food
stories that tell of
happiness, loss, conflict
and more, and sharing
them via the online
community. Share your
own food memories

at 91ways.org
OHELP TO CROWDFUND THE PROJECT
The Bristol 91 Ways
project aims to be
a template for cities
across the UK. To make
that possible, it has
launched a crowdfunding campaign to
raise money. Find out
more at fundsurfer.
com/91ways.
Ellas chana masala

SIMMERING TIME 15 MIN, PLUS 24 HOURS
SOAKING IF USING DRIED CHICKPEAS
Make up to 24 hours ahead,

MAKE cover and chill. Reheat in
AHEAD
a pan on the hob.
200g dried chickpeas (or 2 x 400g
tins chickpeas, drained and rinsed)
dried chickpeas have a better
taste and texture than tinned
Thumb-size piece fresh ginger,
grated
1 medium green chilli, finely
chopped
3-4 tbsp olive oil
1 tsp cumin seeds
400g tin chopped tomatoes
1 level tsp ground turmeric
tsp chilli powder
1 tsp garam masala
tsp ground coriander
tsp ground cumin
Handful fresh coriander, chopped
Natural yogurt and lemon wedges
to serve
1 If using dried chickpeas, soak

them overnight, covered, in a pan
of lukewarm water. The next
morning, drain the water and cover
with fresh water. Add tsp salt and
boil until soft (about 1-2 hours).
Drain and set aside.
2 Put the garlic, ginger and
chilli in a small bowl and mix
together into a coarse paste.
3 Heat the olive oil in a large frying
pan over a medium heat and fry the
onion for 10-15 minutes until soft
and starting to brown. Add the cumin
seeds and the ginger, garlic and chilli
paste, and cook for a few seconds.
Add the tomatoes and stir for
2 minutes, adding salt to taste.
4 Add the turmeric, chilli powder,
garam masala, ground coriander
and ground cumin and stir well to
combine, then add the chickpeas
and cook for 15 minutes. Stir in the
chopped coriander and serve with
a dollop of yogurt and lemon
wedges to squeeze over.
4.6g fibre
people.
Negats zigni berbere

SIMMERING TIME 1 HOUR 30 MIN
Cover and chill for up to

MAKE 48 hours or freeze for up to
AHEAD
1 month. Defrost, then heat.
As a cheat, you can buy
FOOD
TEAMS Bart berbere blend from
TIP
Waitrose and Sainsburys.
50ml vegetable oil
2 large onions, chopped
1kg British free-range skinless
and boneless chicken thighs, cut
into cubes
2 x 400g tins plum tomatoes
2 beef stock cubes
1 tbsp tomato paste
125ml dry red wine (optional)
Bunch fresh coriander, roughly
chopped, plus extra to serve
Lemon wedges to serve
Eritrean injera flatbreads (or
regular flatbreads) or rice and
a green salad to serve
FOR THE BERBERE PEPPER BLEND
PORTRAIT PHOTOGRAPHS: JOSEPH TURP
1 tsp each ground ginger,

fenugreek and black pepper
tsp ground coriander
tsp ground cardamom
tsp ground cloves
tsp ground allspice
Pinch ground cinnamon
tbsp fine sea salt
1 tbsp mild paprika
1 In a large pan, heat a glug of oil.
Add the onions and fry for 5 minutes
until starting to colour, then add the
garlic and fry for 2-3 minutes more
or until the onions are golden.
2 Mix the berbere ingredients in a
small bowl and set aside (or see tip).
Add the chicken to the onions and
fry, turning, until starting to colour.
Add the remaining ingredients,
including the berbere blend, and
simmer gently until the meat is
tender (1-1 hours). Taste, season
and serve with the accompaniments.
MEET THE COOK

Negat Hussein, Eritrea
I left Eritrea at the age of ve,
went to Sweden via Sudan and came
to the UK at 19 to go to university.
When I rst moved to Bristol it was
difcult to meet people but over the
years it got easier. In Eritrea we use
our ngers to eat together it shows
were all on the same level. You eat
together from a big plate in the
middle and wait for each other to
share the food. Its difcult to eat
British food with your hands except
maybe sh ngers! Zigni berbere is
a spicy stew, typical Eritrean food,
and berbere is a popular spice blend
that goes into it. We eat the stew with
injera, a spongy-textured atbread.
MEET THE COOK

Azza Mustafa, Sudan
In our culture, when a visitor
comes round, you always provide
food or drink. It says Im welcoming
you and Im glad to have you here
with me. I love what 91 Ways is
doing in the city. I live in another
part of Bristol but I came all this way
to meet new people. I love to cook
with others too. We talk about kids,
normal life, the weather, missing
your family, and we support each
other. Basbousa is for a special
occasion. Its an Arab sweet, and you
can nd it in all Arab countries.
I learned to make it in Sudan. My
mum makes it all the time, and when
I cook it I remember her.
Azzas basbousa
(sweet semolina cake)
SERVES 12-14. HANDS-ON TIME 15 MIN, OVEN
TIME 25 MIN
Make up to 24 hours ahead

MAKE and store somewhere cool,
AHEAD
well covered.
It might look like there is far
FOOD
TEAMS too much syrup but the cake
TIP
will absorb it all.
FOR THE SYRUP
450g caster sugar

2 tbsp lemon or orange juice
FOR THE CAKE
110g butter, melted, plus extra for

greasing
280ml full-fat greek yogurt
200g caster sugar
240g semolina
1 tbsp baking powder
YOULL ALSO NEED
28cm x 18cm cake tin at least 6cm

deep, greased with butter and
lined with non-stick baking paper
1 To make the syrup, put the sugar
and 340ml cold water into a pan over
a medium heat and let the sugar
dissolve. Add the lemon or orange
juice and bring to a boil. Once the
syrup begins to boil, reduce the heat
to low and simmer gently for 8-10
minutes. Remove from the heat.
gas 4. In a mixing bowl, combine the
butter, yogurt and sugar using
a metal spoon. In a separate large
bowl, combine the semolina and
baking powder. Carefully fold the
butter mixture into the semolina
until just combined.
3 Pour the batter into the tin and
bake for 25 minutes until golden and
a skewer pushed into the middle
comes out clean. Slowly pour the
syrup over the cake until no more
can be absorbed. Cool, then turn out
onto a large plate or board. Cut into
diamond shapes to serve.
people.
MEET THE COOK Susan Arafeh, Syria
Susans ful medames

SERVES 2 AS A STARTER OR 4 AS A SNACK.
HANDS-ON TIME 15 MIN
Prepare the beans up to

MAKE 24 hours in advance and
AHEAD
keep covered in the fridge.
400g tin broad beans or
fava beans
Pinch paprika
Pinch cinnamon (optional)
Juice 2 lemons
3 large tomatoes, deseeded
and finely chopped
80ml olive oil
Bunch fresh flatleaf parsley,

finely chopped
Pitta bread to serve
1 Put the broad/fava beans in
a medium pan, cover with cold water
and bring to the boil, then drain.
2 Transfer the beans to a bowl and
add a good pinch of salt and black
pepper, the paprika and cinnamon
and mix well. Add the remaining
ingredients and mix again. Serve
with freshly toasted pitta bread.
6.5g fibre
I came to the UK in 2012 to visit my

daughter, who was doing her masters degree
here. When things became bad in Syria,
I had to stay. I was a lecturer in English at
Damascus University, but I lost everything.
My career, my life, my students. Everything.
Its not easy to think about it. Im a member
of the Refugee Women of Bristol and now
I volunteer there. Food is an essential factor
to bring people together. If you cook for
someone and you see in their eyes that
they enjoy it and appreciate it, you feel
satisfaction. You did something. By sharing,
by talking, giggling, chatting, being human.
I love cooking for that.
NEXT MONTH
Residents of a small town in
Devon get together for their
annual harvest festival
ROAST OF THE MONTH
THE GLAMMED-UP
ROAST CHICKEN
PHOTOGRAPHS CHARLIE RICHARDS FOOD STYLING ELLA TARN STYLING WEI TANG
Chicken is the ideal late-summer roast because its relatively light,

especially when its married with fresh herbs and salty feta. I wanted
to create a recipe to use up the last of the sun-ripened tomatoes and this
does the job brilliantly as well as being dead simple to make.
LOTTIE COVELL, DEPUTY FOOD EDITOR
Roast chicken in
tomato, basil, olive and
feta sauce
200g feta, crumbled

Steamed greens to serve

gas 5. Put the chicken, breast-side
up, in a medium, deep roasting tin.
Put the lemon halves, 2 whole garlic
cloves and half the bunch of thyme
sprigs inside the chickens cavity.
Drizzle the top of the bird with oil
and season generously with salt
and pepper, then roast on the
middle shelf for 30 minutes.
2 Meanwhile, heat a good glug of oil
in a large frying pan over a medium
heat. Fry the onions for 5 minutes,
then add the crushed garlic,
remaining thyme sprigs and the
tomatoes. Cook for 10 minutes, then
add the wine, sugar and vinegar.
Simmer for a further 15-20 minutes
until the wine has reduced a little
and the sauce doesnt taste too acidic.
Stir in the olives and half the basil,
taste and season, then set aside.
3 Spread the potatoes over the base
of a large roasting tin, drizzle with
oil and season with salt and pepper.
4 Remove the chicken from the oven
and turn down the temperature to
180C/160C fan/gas 4. Spoon the
tomato sauce around the chicken (it
OVEN TIME 1 HOUR 20-30 MIN
Prepare the tomato sauce

MAKE
AHEAD up to 24 hours in advance,
then keep covered in the
fridge. Gently heat through before
adding it to the roasting dish with
the chicken as in step 4 of the recipe.
TEAM
FAVOURITE
Karen Barnes,
editor
I love roast
tomatoes, and
when they meld
with savoury
juices from
a roast chicken
and the saltiness
of feta, its magic.
This is going
to be a staple in
my house from
now on.
2kg British free-range

whole chicken
1 lemon, halved
4 garlic cloves: 2 whole,
2 crushed
Bunch fresh thyme
Cold pressed rapeseed oil for
roasting and frying
2 onions, finely chopped
1.2kg mixed seasonal tomatoes,
roughly chopped
300ml red wine
2 tsp caster sugar
1 tbsp sherry vinegar
200g pitted kalamata olives
Large bunch fresh basil, roughly
chopped
1kg potatoes (we used maris
piper), diced
should fit quite snugly). Return the

tin to the oven, then put the tin
of potatoes on the top shelf. Roast
everything for 50-60 minutes.
5 When there are 20 minutes of
roasting time left, crumble the feta
over the tomato sauce, then
continue to cook. The chicken is
done when a digital probe
thermometer pushed into the
thickest part of the leg and breast
meat reads 70C, or the juices run
clear and the fibres of the leg are
clearly defined and not gelatinous
when the meat is cut into. Turn off
the oven and lift the chicken onto a
board for 10 minutes, keeping the
sauce and potatoes warm in the oven.
6 Serve the roast chicken with the
sauce, garnished with the remaining
basil, with the potatoes and
steamed greens.
WINE EDITORS CHOICE A Chilean
pinot noir or a ripe chardonnay from
NEXT MONTH
Chef Jacob Kenedys guide
to cooking with game
weekend highlight.
Turkish pasta
with feta, yogurt
and dill, p62
Diana Henry
THE ART OF
COOKING SIMPLY
PHOTOGRAPHS LAURA EDWARDS FOOD STYLING JOSS HERD
book of the month.
We are all time-poor. We may be

able to wait while meals cook but we
dont have the hours or the energy
(at least not midweek) to stand
at the kitchen counter doing
complicated stuff. I rarely make a
casserole during the week (all that
browning) and I cant be bothered
to chop much either. But I still want to eat something
delicious every night. This isnt difficult. What we
need are ideas ideas for how to turn the building
blocks of meals (chops, sh llets, chicken thighs,
bags of red peppers or rice) into something that lifts
your heart as you sit down at the table.
Pork chops with

mustard and
capers, p62
These recipes are from my new book, Simple,

which is bigger and better than the one I rst
wrote (Cook Simple, published in 2007). That
book was full of recipes for the kind of food
I made after I had my rst child. As a keen cook,
I was shocked at how little I could manage while
carrying a crying baby around (and suffering
from sleep deprivation). But I realised that the
dishes and the approach I came up with at
the time werent just useful for new mothers.
This new book embraces all the ingredients
weve taken to in the last decade, and it reects
our increasing love of vegetables and
wholegrains too. The recipes also use a
wider range of techniques; there are pots
of simmering lentils and spiced griddled
chicken thighs (to be eaten with relishes or
sauces that are easy to knock up) as well
as lots of bung-it-in-the-oven dishes.
Were more steeped in food now than
weve ever been. We lap it up via TV
cookery programmes and follow
celebrity chefs on our smartphones.
This doesnt mean we are more
condent in the kitchen; in fact it
seems to make us feel less capable.
But we have access to more interesting
ingredients than ever before, and
a world of culinary cultures to look
to for inspiration.
I really believe anyone can cook great
food. If you can stick a whole chicken or
a trayful of red peppers into the oven, a
decent meal isnt far away. But we need
ideas, and thats what Ive tried to give.
Supper, even on a Wednesday night
when youre on the verge of ordering
a takeaway, can be simple and good.
Pork chops with

mustard and capers
Turkish pasta with feta,

yogurt and dill
OVEN TIME 12 MIN
A classic, but none the worse

for that. I love the way the
richness of the creamy sauce
is cut by the pickled capers.
1 tbsp olive oil for frying
4 x 225-250g British free-range
pork chops, preferably thick ones
275ml dry vermouth
250ml double cream
1 tsp dijon mustard
2 tbsp capers in brine, drained
and well rinsed
gas 6. Heat the oil in a large
ovenproof frying pan over a high
heat. Season the chops all over,
then fry for 2 minutes on each side;
you want them good and golden.
Quickly brown the fat, too, by using
tongs to pick up the chops and
holding the fat against the pan
for a minute or so. When youve
browned them all, transfer the pan
to the oven and cook for 12 minutes.
2 Wearing good oven gloves and
being careful of the hot pan handle,
pour the fat out of the pan (discard);
put the chops on a warm plate
and cover to keep warm. Add the
vermouth to the pan. Bring to the
boil on the hob, then bubble to
reduce by half, stirring to pick up
and dissolve all the browned
savoury bits on the pan, then pour
in the cream. Bubble until the sauce
is thick enough to coat the back of
a spoon. Take it off the heat, whisk
in the dijon mustard and stir in the
capers. Taste: its a strong sauce
but it works well with the pork.
Serve the chops with the sauce
spooned over the top.
PER SERVING 676kcals, 45g fat
no fibre
WINE EDITORS CHOICE Choose
a ripe white wine with a creamy,
buttery edge, such as a Burgundian
saint-vran or mcon-villages.
Turkish manti lamb-lled

pasta shapes are served with
yogurt sauce. Theyre laborious
to make, but I love the basic
idea of pasta with yogurt and
feta and so I came up with
this instead. It takes a while
for the onions to caramelise
but you can pretty much leave
them to cook.
Prepare the onions up to
MAKE
AHEAD 24 hours in advance and
keep in a sealed container
in the fridge. Warm through in the
pan, then continue with the recipe.
FOOD If youre serving hungry
TEAMS eaters, use 200g pasta
TIP
instead. For a creamier
pasta, stir a little extra yogurt into
the finished dish.
425g onions (about 4 medium
onions), very finely sliced
1 bay leaf
5cm piece cinnamon stick
1 garlic clove, crushed
145g pappardelle pasta
50g full-fat greek yogurt
1 tbsp whole milk or
buttermilk
2 tbsp fresh dill, roughly chopped
15g butter
tsp cayenne pepper
Finely crumbled feta and lemon
wedges for squeezing (optional)
to serve
1 Put the onions in a heavy-based
pan with the olive oil, bay leaf and
cinnamon. Cook over a medium
heat, stirring, until the onions are
starting to turn golden, then add
the garlic and cook for a further
2 minutes. Add a splash of water,
cover the pan, reduce the heat right
down and leave until the onions are
almost caramelised (about 25-35
minutes). Check on them every so
often to give them a stir and ensure
theyre not getting too dry.
2 When the onions are totally soft,
remove the lid, season and boil until

any excess liquid has evaporated,
if there is any, then remove the
cinnamon and bay leaf.
3 Meanwhile, cook the pappardelle
in boiling salted water until al dente
(usually a couple of minutes less
than suggested on the packet).
When its almost ready, add the
yogurt and milk or buttermilk
to the onions and heat, but dont
boil. Drain the pasta, then toss it
into the onion pan with the dill.
4 Quickly melt the butter in a small
saucepan and add the cayenne. Cook
for about 20 seconds. Serve the pasta
with the spiced butter drizzled on top
and offer the feta and lemon wedges
(optional) on the side.
8.8g fibre
WINE EDITORS CHOICE Chill a cool
dry, lemony white with a herby note
vermentino or gavi, ideally.
Baked merguez sausages

with beans, eggs and feta
SIMMERING TIME 40 MIN
This is an easy meal and

looks great but you need to get
the sauce right, adjusting its
consistency around the sausages
by cooking it a little longer if you
need it to be thicker, or adding
more water if you want it
thinner. I cant be specic, as it
depends on the size of pan youre
using, so just adjust until you get
it the way you like it. Your
seasoning needs to be good, too.
Be assertive.
Merguez are heavily spiced
sausages made from either
lamb or beef, or a mixture of
the two. Find them in good
butchers and larger supermarkets,
or just use your favourite type of
sausages we think ones with a
good chilli or spicy kick are best.
We like to serve extra crumbled
feta to scatter over at the end.
Recipe continues on p64
FOOD
TEAMS
TIPS
book of the month.
Honeyed sausages
with blackberry and
caraway slaw
OVEN TIME 25 MIN
Good-quality sausages
are vital here. The slaw is still
great without blackberries,
but cultivated berries are easy
to buy in the autumn.
Prepare the slaw dressing
MAKE
up
to 48 hours in advance.
AHEAD
Keep covered in the fridge
2 tbsp wholegrain mustard
6 tbsp honey (about 90ml)
8 good-quality chunky British
pork sausages
FOR THE SLAW
1 tsp caraway seeds

1 tbsp maple syrup
1 tsp dijon mustard
1 tbsp cider vinegar
75g young leaf spinach
small red cabbage, tough core

removed, very finely sliced
1 small eating apple, cored and
cut into matchsticks
small red onion, sliced
wafer thin
15g walnut pieces, toasted
1 dried chilli, crumbled
75g blackberries (see tip)
gas 6. Mix the wholegrain mustard
and honey with some seasoning. Put
the sausages into a roasting tin large
enough for there to be a little room
around them (too big a tin and the
juices will boil off and burn; too small
and the liquid wont turn into a sticky
and glossy coating for the sausages).
2 Pour the honey-mustard mixture
over the sausages to coat, then
roast for 2530 minutes, turning
every so often. They should look
as shiny and dark as conkers.
If not, cook for a little longer.
3 Meanwhile, toast the caraway
seeds in a dry frying pan for
20 seconds, then put on a
plate to cool. Whisk together

the maple syrup, dijon mustard,
vinegar and extra-virgin olive oil,
then add the caraway seeds.
4 Bunch the spinach leaves on
a chopping board and slice them
finely. Put into a serving bowl
with the other slaw ingredients,
pour on the dressing and gently
toss. Serve with the sausages.
PER SERVING 670kcals, 49g fat
6.6g fibre
WINE EDITORS CHOICE Sweet
hints from honey and maple syrup
mean this works best with off-dry
whites such as vouvray demi-sec.
For more ways to use wholegrain
mustard, see Loose Ends
BOOK
OFFER
To order Simple:
Effortless Food,
Big Flavours by
Diana Henry (RRP
25; Mitchell
Beazley) at the
special price of
17.50 including
free UK P&P,
please call
01903 828503
quoting Simple/
MB645.* Or, to get
a copy FREE with a
subscription to
delicious., turn
to p84.
Continued from p62

12 merguez or spicy lamb
sausages (see tip)
2 x 400g tins cherry tomatoes
tbsp dried oregano
About nutmeg, grated
1 tbsp soft light brown sugar
Good slug extra-virgin olive oil
2 x 400g tins haricot or cannellini
beans, drained and rinsed
400g tin butter beans, drained
and rinsed
Pinch cayenne pepper
50g feta, crumbled (see tip)
1 Heat the olive oil in a large
flameproof casserole or pan (30cm
across) with a lid. Brown the
sausages all over on a high heat to
get a good colour, then remove from
Orange-oregano roast
chicken, olive gremolata
TIME 40 MIN, PLUS MARINATING
Simple but striking looking.

Serve with a watercress salad
and little potatoes roasted in
olive oil or a rice pilaf.
Marinate up to 24 hours in
MAKE
AHEAD advance, keep covered in
the fridge and bring up to
room temperature before roasting.
12 British free-range chicken thighs
1 bunch fresh oregano, leaves
picked and chopped
Juice 2 oranges and finely grated
zest of 1, plus 2 small oranges,
preferably thin-skinned, cut into
thin slices
Sea salt flakes to scatter

A little granulated sugar
FOR THE GREMOLATA
200g mixed green and black

olives, pitted and finely chopped
2 red chillies, deseeded and finely
sliced
Finely grated zest 1 orange
2 fresh oregano sprigs, leaves
picked, roughly chopped
1 tbsp orange juice
1 tbsp white balsamic vinegar
Squeeze of lemon juice
1 Trim the chicken thighs of scraggy
bits of skin. Pierce the undersides
with a sharp knife and put in a dish.
Add the oregano, garlic, orange
juice and zest, 4 tbsp of the oil and
some black pepper. Mix with your
hands, cover and put in the fridge
for a few hours (overnight is even
better; see Make Ahead).
2 For the gremolata, put all the
ingredients in a bowl, mix well and
set aside to let the flavours infuse.
gas 5. Take the chicken out of the
marinade, shaking off the excess.
Heat the remaining 1 tbsp oil
in a large ovenproof saut pan or
shallow casserole in which the
chicken can lie in a single layer.
Brown the chicken, in batches, on
both sides, finishing skin-side up.
Scatter with sea salt flakes, then
roast for 20 minutes.
4 Lay some of the orange slices
under the chicken and the rest on
top. Spoon the cooking juices over
the oranges, then sprinkle a little
sugar over the slices. Roast for
another 20 minutes; the chicken
and oranges should be cooked.
Scatter the gremolata on top.
Serve in the roasting dish.
2.7g fibre
WINE EDITORS CHOICE A juicy,
generously fruity southern French
viognier is just perfect for the
vivacious flavours here.
*OFFER SUBJECT TO AVAILABILITY. PLEASE ALLOW SEVEN DAYS FOR DELIVERY
Baked
merguez
sausages with
beans, eggs
and feta, p62
the pan and set aside. Add the onion

and cook over a medium heat until
soft and pale gold, then add the
garlic and cook for another minute.
2 Add the tomatoes and season well.
Sprinkle in the oregano, nutmeg and
sugar. Bring to the boil, reduce the
heat, return the sausages to the pan
with a good slug of extra-virgin olive
oil (it really enriches the dish) and
simmer gently for about 20 minutes.
3 Add all the beans and gently stir.
Add more seasoning beans need
a lot and a little water if necessary.
You want the beans to end up thickly
coated in sauce after 20 minutes of
gentle cooking. Stir from time to time
as they cook. If the sauce isnt thick
enough, cook for a little longer (see
introduction). Check the seasoning.
4 Break the eggs on top and cook
until the whites are set (cover the
pan to speed this up). Sprinkle a
little cayenne on each egg, then add
the feta and serve immediately.
(3.6g saturated), 36g protein,
11.8g fibre
WINE EDITORS CHOICE A soft,
slightly peppery ctes du rhnevillages red is bang on for these.
book of the month.
Orange-oregano
roast chicken,
olive gremolata
ESSENTIALS FOR SIMPLE COOKING

ROASTING IS YOUR FRIEND Not only
for Sundays. Whether its meat,
veg or fruit, you can put raw
ingredients into the oven and
forget about them. They
emerge transformed. Its not
quick, but it is easy. The oven
does the work, not you.
THE IMPORTANCE OF ACCESSORIES
Fillets of fish, chicken thighs

and roast vegetables all need
the right accessories. These

basic items can be made special
with salsas, sauces and butters
build up a repertoire of these
you can turn to.
ALONG WITH BASICS such as
decent knives and good pans,

roasting tins and a variety of
gratin dishes are the most
important bits of kitchenware.
A shallow casserole or wide
ovenproof pan (30cm across

and with a lid) is also a boon.
It allows you to roast items in
a single layer, browning on the
top while creating cooking
juices or cooking in a small
amount of liquid underneath.
A FEW MORE UNUSUAL INGREDIENTS
make simple food interesting.

Order them in one go online
from a specialist shop so you
dont pay for more than

one delivery.
CARRY A NOTEBOOK OR A LIST ON

YOUR PHONE of recipes you can
pick up the ingredients for on

the way home from work. Even
the keenest cooks find it hard
to think of dishes at the end of a
hard day. Lists of whats in
season will help get you
thinking about what to cook.
book of the month.
2 small fennel bulbs

Juice lemon
400g waxy potatoes (not peeled)
2 tbsp extra-virgin olive oil, plus
extra for drizzling and brushing
12 plum tomatoes, sliced
5mm thick
12 British lamb loin chops or
cutlets (see introduction and tip)
FOR THE RELISH
50g anchovy fillets in oil, drained

and chopped
2 tbsp chopped fresh flatleaf
parsley leaves
Juice lemon
Lamb chops with

fennel and parsleyanchovy relish
try the relish and vegetables

with baked bream, red mullet
or sea bass instead.

OVEN TIME 45 MIN
Okay, this has three elements

the chops, relish and
Lamb chops vegetables but each is quick to
with fennel and
put together. Use whatever kind
parsley-anchovy
of chops you want (cutlets,
relish
chump) and, another time,
Prepare the relish up to

MAKE
AHEAD 24 hours in advance and
keep in a sealed container
in the fridge until ready to use.
FOOD Pork chops would also work
TEAMS well for this recipe, but as
TIP
theyre usually bigger they
may take longer to cook.

gas 5. Quarter the fennel bulbs.
Remove the thick outer layer, trim
the tops and the bases and remove
the cores. Set aside any little fronds,
then slice the fennel really finely.
2 Put the fennel in a large shallow
ovenproof dish (I use a 30cm cast
iron one) and toss in the lemon juice.
Cut the potatoes in slices as thick
as a 50p coin and toss them with the
fennel, 2 tbsp olive oil and some
seasoning. Lay the tomatoes on
top, season and drizzle with a little
more oil. Bake for 45 minutes, or
until the potatoes are tender.
3 To make the relish, mix all
the ingredients together, seasoning
generously with pepper.
4 When there are just 8 minutes
before the vegetables are ready,
brush the chops with olive oil and
season. Cook them in a very hot
frying or griddle pan: start on
a high heat to get a good colour
(and brown the fat, too), then
reduce the heat and cook briefly
until done the way you like them;
I like them rare. Serve the chops
with the vegetables and relish.
5.4g fibre
WINE EDITORS CHOICE You need
a red here, but nothing too heavy
because of the relish. A young,
unoaked Spanish tempranillo
gets the vote.
reader events.
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FAVOURITE FOOD AND
WINE EXPERTS?
Join delicious. for Cookbook Condential, a series of exclusive reader
events at which inspiring writers discuss their food and drink-related passions
and tips for success, all over a convivial glass of wine
PORTRAITS: CHRIS TERRY, THE GAZTRONOME
ne of the countrys
leading publishers of
cookery books,
Octopus, is running a series of
monthly events, and delicious.
is delighted to be the media
partner. Over the coming
months, top cookbook authors
and culinary experts will share
their wisdom and stories. The
evenings are being held at Foyles
agship store in Londons
Charing Cross Road.
Choose from any (or all!) of the following evenings

LAST
CHANCE TO
BOOK!
WEDNESDAY
5 OCTOBER, 7PM
How to make it
in the restaurant
business with Dan
Doherty, Palomar
and Bone Daddies
Hot-right-now chefs
such as Mr Doherty
(above left), chef at
Duck & Waffle, tell
how they did it.
WEDNESDAY
2 NOVEMBER, 7PM
40 years of wine
with Hugh Johnson
One of the worlds
foremost wine
writers and the
author of The World
Atlas of Wine shares
fascinating stories
hes accumulated
over the decades.
WEDNESDAY
30 NOVEMBER, 7PM
Seasons Eatings
with Gizzi Erskine
The glam cook, TV
chef and food writer,
formerly a punk and
the daughter of
a baron, talks about
her new book and
what inspires her
cooking style.
WHERE Foyles bookshop, 107 Charing Cross Road, London WC2 HOW MUCH? 12 including a glass of wine
HOW TO BOOK TICKETS For more information about the events and to book tickets, go to foyles.co.uk/events
SINCE
ROYAL CANIN SAS 2016. All Rights Reserved.
country cook.
THE HERITAGE INGREDIENT
CHEDDAR CHEESE
With a good chunk of cheddar in your fridge, youre never far away from
a satisfying snack and you have the beginnings of a great meal. So says
Debbie Major, who celebrates the versatility of a British classic
RECIPES AND FOOD STYLING DEBBIE MAJOR PHOTOGRAPHS ANDREW MONTGOMERY STYLING OLIVIA WARDLE
Raw with an apple or

a good chutney, melted
in a toastie with ham,
or grated into a white
sauce for cauliower or
macaroni, cheddar is
such a versatile cheese.
Its a proper heritage
ingredient too. The area
around the Mendip Hills near Cheddar Gorge in
Somerset was the centre of cheddar production
from the 16th century and probably for centuries
before. Local caves provided ideal conditions for
maturing cheese and theyre still in use today.
Cheddar is a hard, full-fat cows milk cheese.
Firm yet yielding, often smooth but occasionally
more crumbly, it can be mild, strong or even
sharp, with a nutty, sweet taste from the milk.
What sets it apart from other hard cheeses is
the step in the process known as cheddaring, in
which slabs of curd are turned and piled on top
of each other to help drain off the whey. But
cheddars name has never been protected and
given a DO (Designation of Origin), so sadly
there are tonnes of tasteless cheese produced
around the world carrying the name cheddar.
However, only cheeses made within the four
counties of southwest England (Somerset,
Devon, Dorset and Cornwall) are allowed to
use the name West Country Farmhouse
Cheddar. It must be made from local milk, using
traditional techniques (animal rennet and hand
cheddaring) and aged a minimum nine months.
As the cheese matures, the avour becomes
stronger. Larger dairies sell mild cheddar at
3 months, medium at 5-6 months, mature at
9 months, extra mature at 15 months and
vintage at 18 months or more. Its best to buy
from a reputable producer or a cheesemonger.
HERITAGE RECIPE
Cheddar and chard

tart with cheese and
oatmeal pastry
OVEN TIME 52-58 MIN, PLUS CHILLING
Make the pastry up to

MAKE 24 hours ahead and keep
AHEAD
wrapped in cling film in the
fridge. The tart is best freshly baked
but will keep chilled overnight. Bring
back to room temperature to serve.
If the chard has very thick
FOOD
TEAMS stalks, halve lengthways
TIP
before slicing (step 3).
Chard, a member
of the beet family (which
includes beetroot, spinach and,
interestingly, quinoa) is one of
the most nutritious vegetables
around. If its not in season,
use spinach instead.
400g chard (well dried after
washing)
25g unsalted butter
300ml crme frache
225g mature cheddar,
coarsely grated
FOR THE PASTRY
175g plain flour, plus extra to dust

65g medium oatmeal
50g chilled unsalted butter, cut
into chunks
50g chilled vegetable shortening
(or lard for non-vegetarians), cut
into chunks
75g mature cheddar, finely grated
2 tbsp iced water
YOULL ALSO NEED
25cm by 4cm deep, loosebottomed tart tin
CHEDDAR LOVES
Anchovies
Apples & grapes
Bacon & ham
Beef
Broccoli &
cauliower
Chilli
Cider & ale
Fish & shellsh
Herbs: sage, thyme

& rosemary
Mushrooms
Onion
Pickles & chutneys
Potatoes
Tomatoes
Walnuts &
almonds
1 For the pastry, put the 175g flour

into a food processor with the
oatmeal, a pinch of salt, the butter
and vegetable shortening or lard.
Process briefly until the mixture
looks like fine breadcrumbs. Add the
grated cheddar, then whizz briefly to
mix. Add the iced water and whizz
briefly until the mixture comes
together into a ball. Tip onto

a lightly floured work surface,
flatten into a fat disc, wrap in cling
film, then chill for 30 minutes.
2 Roll out the chilled pastry to the
thickness of a pound coin on a lightly
floured work surface, then use to
line the tart tin. Prick the base here
and there with a fork, then chill for
30 minutes.
gas 6. Cut the green leaves away
from the white stalks of the chard.
Bundle up the stalks, then thinly
slice them across. Shred the green
leaves. Set aside.
4 Remove the pastry case from the
fridge and line it with a crumpled
sheet of non-stick baking paper,
then fill with baking beans or
uncooked rice. Bake for 15-20
minutes until the edges are
biscuit-coloured. Remove the paper
and beans/rice, return the pastry
case to the oven and bake for 7-8
minutes more until the base of the
case is golden brown. Remove from
the oven and set aside.
5 Reduce the oven temperature to
190C/170C fan/gas 5. Melt the 25g
butter in a large pan, add the swiss
chard stalks and a little salt and
pepper, stir, then cover and cook for
2 minutes or until just tender.
Uncover, stir in the shredded chard
leaves and some salt and pepper,
re-cover and cook for 5 minutes. Tip
into a colander in the sink and gently
press out the excess liquid.
6 Mix the eggs and crme frache in
a measuring jug with some salt and
pepper until combined. Loosely
layer the chard and grated cheese
in the cooked pastry case, then pour
the crme frache mixture over.
Bake for 30 minutes or until set and
richly golden. Leave to cool slightly,
then remove from the tin to serve.
1.5g fibre
WINE EDITORS CHOICE Alsace
whites, either pinot blanc or
riesling, will be terrific with this.
For more ways to use oatmeal,
see Loose Ends
country cook.
THE QUEEN OF TARTS
Perfect partners
cheddar and chard
ATLANTIC IMPORT
American patty melts

TEAM
FAVOURITE
Susan Low,
deputy editor
The tart (p70) is
salty, savoury,
crunchy-oaty so
many good things
packed into one
dish. Its rich, but
soooo good.
These are a hefty but welcome

treat, a kind of cross between
a toasted cheese sandwich
and a beefburger. I think you
have to serve them with US-style
dill pickle cucumbers.
Spread a little chutney onto
FOOD
TEAMS one of the slices of bread
TIP
(step 4) before layering with
the onions, cheese and patty.
2 large onions, thinly sliced
tsp granulated sugar
500g British beef mince
8 x 1cm thick slices good quality
white bread
150g mature cheddar, thinly sliced
Enough soft butter to spread
on 8 slices of bread
Dill pickle cucumbers (or other
whole gherkins) to serve
1 Heat 2 tbsp of the olive oil in a
large non-stick frying pan over a
medium heat. Add the onions, sugar
and some salt and pepper, then fry,
stirring often, until soft and nicely
caramelised (15-20 minutes). Spoon
into a bowl, then wipe the pan clean.
2 Meanwhile, mix the beef mince
with plenty of sea salt and freshly
ground black pepper. Divide the

mixture into 4 and shape each
piece into a thin square patty that
is slightly longer and wider than
the bread slices. Set aside.
3 Heat the remaining 2 tbsp olive oil
in the frying pan and increase the
heat to high. Add 2 of the patties and
fry for 2-3 minutes on each side
until nicely browned on the outside
and cooked to your liking. I like them
slightly pink in the centre as theyre
juicier like this. Lift onto a plate and
repeat with the remaining patties.
Wash the pan clean and return it to
a low-medium heat for 2-3 minutes.
4 Meanwhile, butter one side of each
slice of bread. Put 4 of the slices,
buttered-side down, on a work
surface and top each one with some
of the onions, a slice of cheese,
then a beef patty. Top the patty
with another slice of cheese and
the remaining onions. Top each
stack with the remaining slices
of bread, butter side facing up.
5 Put 2 of the sandwiches into the
hot pan and weigh them down with
another frying pan. Cook for 3-4
minutes until crisp and golden, then
flip them over and repeat. Slide onto
a chopping board, then repeat with
the other 2 sandwiches. Cut in half
and serve with the dill pickles.
PER SERVING 861kcals, 61.1g fat (28.1
saturated), 40.7g protein, 35.3g carbs
(7.6g sugars), 1.5g salt, 3.7g fibre
QUICK, SIMPLE BAKE
Cheddar, jalapeo chilli

and sweetcorn muffins
MAKES 12. HANDS-ON TIME 20 MIN,
OVEN TIME 20 MIN
Make the muffins up to 24

MAKE hours in advance and keep
AHEAD
in an airtight container.
Heat the oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6.
Line a muffin tray with 12 paper cases.
Sift 175g plain flour, 4 tsp baking
powder and tsp salt into a bowl and
stir in 150g dried polenta, 100g finely
WINE EDITORS CHOICE Its got to

be a refreshing, crisp lager with
these or, to be honest, a big mug
of strong tea.
ITALIAN CLASSIC
Parma ham, chicken

liver and mushroom
vincisgrassi
OVEN TIME 30-35 MIN, PLUS INFUSING
Vincisgrassi is a version of
lasagne from the Marche region
on the east coast of Italy. It was
traditionally made with assorted
cockerel giblets, but Ive turned
it into something slightly more
luxurious by using chicken livers.
Ive also used cheddar instead
of parmesan.
This is a dish for a special
DEBBIES
occasion as it takes time to
TIPS
prepare, but you can make it

a day ahead. Take it out of the fridge
an hour before baking so it can
come back to room temperature.
The original dish used black
truffles. As these are beyond most
peoples budget, you could add
a splash of truffle olive oil to the
chicken livers if you wish (step 5).
If you dont like chicken
FOOD
TEAMS liver, use 400g sausagemeat
TIP
and fry for 10 minutes
longer (step 5).
grated mature cheddar and tsp chilli

flakes. Pour a 284ml pot of buttermilk
(or whole milk) into a jug and beat in
2 medium free-range eggs and 75g
melted butter. Mix the milk mixture into
the dry ingredients with 160g drained
tinned sweetcorn and 1 deseeded,
chopped jalapeo chilli. Slice another
chilli. Divide the batter among the
paper cases, sprinkle with 25g grated
cheddar and top with chilli slices. Bake
for 20 minutes until golden and risen.
PER MUFFIN 224kcals, 10.7g fat (5.9g
(2.2g sugars), 1g salt, 1.4g fibre
country cook.
GORGE ON CHEDDAR
Debbie gets American

patty melts skewered
and, left, grates some
cheddar, assembles the
patties and readies her
ingredients for a
classic Italian dish
country cook.
Parma ham,
chicken liver and
mushroom
vincisgrassi, p72
FIND MORE
IDEAS ON THE
delicious.
WEBSITE
Go to delicious
magazine.co.uk/
countrycook for
Debbies recipes
and delicious
magazine.co.uk/
cheddar for more
cheddar recipes
50g dried porcini mushrooms

250ml fresh chicken stock, hot
150g parma ham slices
9 sheets (175g) dried lasagne
30g butter, plus extra to grease
1 tbsp olive oil
450g chestnut mushrooms, thinly
sliced
400g free-range chicken livers,
trimmed and coarsely chopped
FOR THE SAUCE
NEXT
MONTH
Debbie gets
cooking with
British real ale
1 small onion, halved

8 cloves
1 litre whole milk, plus extra for
topping up if necessary
6 fresh bay leaves, crumpled
2 large fresh thyme sprigs
1 tsp cracked black peppercorns
75g butter
65g plain flour
150g cheddar, finely grated

nutmeg, freshly grated
YOULL ALSO NEED
20cm x 29cm shallow baking dish

1 For the sauce, stud the onion with
the cloves and put in a pan with the
milk, bay, thyme and peppercorns.
Bring to the boil, then take off the
heat. Leave to infuse for 30 minutes.
2 Put the porcini mushrooms in
a small bowl, cover with the hot
stock and put a ramekin on top to
keep them submerged. Set aside. Put
a large pan of salted water on to boil.
3 Cut the parma ham slices in half
lengthways, stack them up, then cut
them across into thin slivers.
4 Drop the lasagne a sheet at a time
into the boiling water and cook for
12 minutes or until al dente. Drain,

rinse under cold water, then lay out
the sheets side by side on a large
sheet of cling film. Cover with more
cling film.
5 Drain the porcini, reserving the
stock, then squeeze out any excess
liquid. Heat the 30g butter and oil in
a large non-stick frying pan, add the
porcini and fry gently for 2 minutes.
Add the fresh mushrooms, increase
the heat and fry for 3 minutes. Add
the reserved chicken stock and cook
rapidly until the liquid has almost
evaporated. Add the chicken livers
and fry for 3 minutes, stirring. Add
the parma ham and stir until well
mixed. Remove from the heat and
season with pepper the ham should
make it salty enough (see tips).
6 Bring the milk for the sauce back to
the boil, then strain through a sieve
into a jug (discard the flavourings)
and make back up to 1 litre with extra
milk if necessary. Melt the 75g butter
in a medium pan, add the flour and
cook gently for 2 minutes, stirring,
without letting it colour. Remove
from the heat and gradually stir in
the hot milk. Bring back to the boil,
stirring, then simmer gently over a
very low heat, stirring occasionally,
for 10 minutes or until it thickens to
coat the back of a wooden spoon.
gas 6. Remove the sauce from the
heat, then add 75g of the grated
cheddar and the nutmeg. Season.
Butter a 20cm x 29cm shallow
baking dish and line the base with
3 of the cooked lasagne sheets.
Spoon over a third of the chicken
liver mixture, then pour over a third
of the cheese sauce. Repeat these
layers twice more, finishing with the
final lasagne sheets, then sprinkle
with the remaining cheddar.
8 Bake for 30-35 minutes until golden
and bubbling and heated through.
Serve with a mixed leaf salad.
29.3g fat (16.3g saturated),
30.9g protein, 28.7g carbs
WINE EDITORS CHOICE A fresh,
cherryish northwest Italian red such
as dolcetto or barbera.
drinks.
CHEERS!
Susy Atkins wine round-up, plus a grape variety thats bang on trend
GRAB A BARGAIN
Winemakers Selection
Montepulciano
dAbruzzo 2014, Italy
(5, Sainsburys)
A lightish, easy-going
and juicy red, with black
cherries and cassis.
Torres Via Sol Ros
2015, Catalunya, Spain
(6.50, Asda) Keep the
summery vibe going with
tangy redcurrant and
wild strawberry flavours.
De Bortoli The
Astronomer Chardonnay
2015, Australia (6.99 or
5.99 each in a six-bottle
multi-buy until 24
October, Majestic)
A well-balanced Aussie
chardonnay not
obviously oaky with
pineapple flavours and
a creamy roundness.
A good match for roast
chicken or fresh salmon.
WHATS HOT
The grenache grape
FRIDAY SPECIAL
Tesco Finest
Marlborough Pinot Noir
2015, New Zealand (7)
A smooth but bright and
plummy pinot with a hint
of hazelnut. Open for
duck or rare steak.
La Roche Blanche
Muscadet Ctes de
Grandlieu sur Lie 2015,
Loire, France (7.90,
laywheeler.com)
Muscadet has improved
PHOTOGRAPHS: ISTOCK
TREAT YOURSELF
Castelnau de Suduiraut
Sauternes 2010,
Bordeaux, France (12.99
for 37.5cl or 10.99 each
in a six-bottle multi-buy
until 30 January, Majestic)
A cool, golden dessert
wine to match the
seasons ripe apples,
pears and blackberries.
Ferrari Brut NV, Trento
DOC, Italy (20, Marks &
Spencer) Trade up from
prosecco to this premium
Italian fizz, which tastes

more like champagne
with its richer toasty and
biscuity layers. Bravo!
Chteau des Jacques
2012, Moulin--Vent,
Beaujolais, France
(15, Sainsburys)
Sweetly ripe strawberry
flavours ooze from
this premium Beaujolais.
Great to serve with
pork rillettes, chicken
liver pt or charcuterie.
greatly; heres one with

a delicate apple-blossom
scent and whistle-clean
citrus streak.
Markus Huber Grner
Veltliner 2015, Austria
(10.79, down to 7.99
until 20 Sep, Waitrose)
Austrias signature GV
grape brings zippy green
apple, grapefruit and
white pepper flavours.
A star match for scallops.
s the evenings draw

in and the food grows
heartier, its time for
a more a robust red. Grenache
(called garnacha in Spain)
delivers lots of ripe plummy
avour, good structure and,
often, a sprinkle of black
pepper so its well armed
to take on roast meats, game
and big pasta bakes.
This grape thrives in hot
climates in the south of France,
Australia and Spain, so expect
the wines to be fairly high
in alcohol. The famous
chteauneuf-du-pape from
Frances Rhne Valley is based
on grenache, but otherwise
this used to be a workhorse
grape, simply blended into
oceans of fairly average reds.
Now grenache is crafted with
more care and the grape has
become fashionable a good
choice if you fancy a change
from cabernet and shiraz.
From the Cariena region
of Spain, Raso de la Cruz 2015
(7, Marks & Spencer) is an
easy-going red. From Barossa
in Australia, Yalumba Old
Bush Vine Grenache 2012
(12, Morrisons) is rich and
rounded one for the best

sausages or lasagne. And
from the Rhne Valley,
Vidal-Fleury Cairanne 2012
(12.25, Oddbins) has avours
reminiscent of black pepper,

blackberries and damsons.
Chetnas three
chocolate and
cardamom tart
Behind the scenes of
THE GREAT
BRITISH BAKE OFF
As Series 7 of GBBO grips the nation, former stars share their stories from the tent
including a few theyd prefer to forget. Most exciting of all, we managed to
persuade each of them to create a new recipe, exclusively for delicious.
RECIPES CHETNA MAKAN, EDD KIMBER, MARTHA COLLISON AND JOHN WHAITE
PHOTOGRAPHS MAJA SMEND FOOD STYLING LUCY OREILLY STYLING LYDIA BRUN
make it sweet.
the crunch of the pastry are

balanced by a layer of cream on
top, nished with a scattering
of toasted hazelnuts.
Make the recipe up to the
MAKE end of step 5 up to 12 hours
AHEAD
ahead, then keep in the
fridge. Bring to room temperature,
then finish with the cream to serve.
You could roll the pastry
CHETNAS between 2 pieces of nonTIP
stick baking paper to stop
it sticking to the surface (step 2).
Chetna Makan,
semi-nalist in 2014
BEHIND THE SCENES Ive done quite
a few stressful things in my life, but
taking part in Bake Off was extreme.
Week one was so difficult. Youre
used to how your own oven works,
but in the tent you dont even know
where the spoons are! And the time
pressure is something else; when
youre cooking at home youre on
your own, but suddenly everyone
is watching you and they see if you
go wrong. But you soon get into the
groove. I had so much fun baking
with all those lovely people we still
meet up every few months.
OUT-TAKE It was a really hot summer
when I was on the show. Remember
that famous week when the baked
alaska was thrown in the bin? Mine
melted as well. It was the only time
I cried in the tent. I wept on Mels
shoulder, but it didnt make the final
edit, thankfully.
WHAT CHETNAS DOING NOW My first
book, The Cardamom Trail (20;
Mitchell Beazley), came out earlier
this year. Now Im really enjoying
doing my cookery show Food With
Chetna on YouTube.
Chetnas three chocolate

and cardamom tart
SERVES 8-10. HANDS-ON TIME 45 MIN, OVEN
TIME 30 MIN, PLUS CHILLING AND COOLING
This easy-to-make tart is

a favourite in our house. The
avour of the cardamom, the
three types of chocolate and
FOR THE CHOCOLATE PASTRY
165g plain flour, plus extra to dust

30g cocoa powder, plus extra
to dust
50g icing sugar
110g unsalted butter, softened
FOR THE WHITE CHOCOLATE GANACHE
100ml double cream

100g white chocolate, roughly
chopped
FOR THE DARK CHOCOLATE GANACHE
200ml double cream

Seeds from 10-12 cardamom pods,
crushed in a pestle and mortar
100g dark chocolate, roughly
chopped
100g milk chocolate, roughly
chopped
FOR THE CREAM TOPPING
150ml double cream

150g mascarpone
2 tbsp caster sugar
Handful toasted chopped
hazelnuts to decorate
YOULL ALSO NEED
23cm diameter fluted tart tin,

around 4cm deep
1 To make the pastry, combine the
flour, cocoa powder, icing sugar and
a pinch of fine salt in a mixing bowl.
Rub the 110g butter into the flour
mixture with your fingertips, then
add the egg yolks. Use a dough
scraper or wooden spoon to bring
the dough together, handling it as
little as possible. Add a splash of

water, if needed. Knead the pastry
in the bowl for a couple of seconds,
then shape it into a ball and wrap
it in cling film. Chill for 30 minutes.
2 Dust the surface with flour, then
roll out the pastry to a 3mm thick
round, turning it occasionally so that
it doesnt stick (or see tip). Put the
tart tin on a baking sheet, then line
it with the pastry, leaving the excess
hanging over the sides. Chill again
for 15 minutes. Heat the oven to
200C/180C fan/gas 6.
3 Scrunch up a large piece of
non-stick baking paper, then use to
line the pastry case. Fill with baking
beans or uncooked rice, then bake
for 20 minutes. Remove the paper
and beans/rice, then return the
pastry to the oven for 10 minutes or
until crisp. As the pastry is already
dark, you need to keep an eye on it
so it doesnt burn. Cool in the tin on
a cooling rack for 15 minutes, then
cut off the excess pastry with
a serrated knife. Cool completely.
4 For the white chocolate ganache,
heat the 100ml cream in a medium
pan. Put the white chocolate in a
heatproof bowl. When the cream is
just about to boil, pour it over the
chocolate. Stir until the chocolate
has melted and combined with the
cream, then pour into the pastry
case. Chill for 1 hour or until set.
5 Once set, make the dark chocolate
ganache. Heat the 200ml cream in
a medium pan, then add the crushed
cardamom. Put the dark and milk
chocolates in a medium heatproof
bowl. When the cream is about to
boil, pour it over the chocolate. Stir
until the chocolate has melted, then
add the 25g butter and let it melt.
Stir to combine, then pour the
ganache over the white chocolate
layer. Chill for 1 hour or until set.
6 Whisk the 150ml cream with the
mascarpone and sugar to soft peaks
using an electric mixer. Spread it
over the tart, then dust with cocoa
powder and scatter with hazelnuts.
Edds poached pear

cake with chai-spiced
buttercream and salted
caramel drizzle
MORE
FIND
IDEAS ON
THE delicious.
WEBSITE
You can find

a huge collection
of baking recipes
online visit
delicious
magazine.co.uk/
recipes/
cakes-and-baking

OVEN TIME 55-60 MIN, PLUS INFUSING,
CHILLING AND COOLING
Im obsessed with caramel

and I love pears its a classic
combination that works
perfectly in a cake.
FOR THE BUTTERCREAM
Edd Kimber,
winner of the rst
Bake Off in 2010
BEHIND THE SCENES It was the first
series so we had no idea what to
expect, plus we were in different
locations every episode back then.
The first week was in a freezing
cold tent in Kent and it was all
rather chaotic wed open the
ovens just for a blast of heat. But
it was a lot of fun being with people
so passionate about baking. There
was one point when wed been
talking about mixers for an hour
until someone pointed out how
boring we were being! After each
baking challenge the crew filmed
long beauty shots of the finished
results and would tell everyone
to smile at your cakes! quite
hard after an hour.
OUT-TAKE Back then, the producers
werent sure how much to show
viewers if someone cut themselves.
In the final episode Paul [Hollywood]
gave the remaining bakers brand
new metal bread scrapers to
use. They had sharp edges and
I managed to cut myself pretty
dramatically. The paramedics
rushed in but I insisted on carrying
on using my other hand.
WHAT EDDS DOING NOW I make my
living writing for food magazines
and styling food shoots, plus Ive
written three cookbooks: the latest,
Patisserie Made Simple (19.99;
Kyle Books), is about French baking.
I recently started a podcast
called Stir The Pot.
250g unsalted butter, diced

2 chai-spiced tea bags
250g icing sugar
Splash whole milk, if needed
FOR THE SALTED CARAMEL
75g caster sugar

60ml double cream
10g unsalted butter
Large pinch sea salt flakes
FOR THE POACHED PEARS
4 ripe conference pears, peeled,

cored and quartered
Pared zest and juice lemon
200g caster sugar
FOR THE SPONGE
250g unsalted butter, at room

temperature
250g caster sugar
3 large free-range eggs, lightly
beaten
250g self-raising flour
tsp baking powder
YOULL ALSO NEED
Deep 23cm diameter cake tin,

greased and base-lined with
non-stick baking paper
1 A few hours before you want to
make the cake, put the butter for the
buttercream in a small pan and cook
over a medium heat until the butter
foams, the milk solids turn golden
and the mixture smells nutty. Pour
it through a fine sieve into a small
bowl. While still hot, add the
tea bags and leave to infuse for
30 minutes. Remove the bags, then
chill the butter until firm.
2 For the salted caramel, put the
75g sugar in a medium pan and cook

over a medium heat until the sugar
has caramelised, turning the colour
of an old penny. Pour in the cream
in two additions, followed by the
10g butter and the salt. Cook the
caramel until smooth, then pour
it into a small heatproof container,
cool and chill until needed.
3 Put the quartered pears in a
medium pan and add a couple of
strips of lemon peel, plus the lemon
juice. Top up with water to cover and
add the 200g caster sugar. Put the
pan over a medium-high heat and
bring to the boil, then reduce the
heat to a low simmer and cook for
15-20 minutes until the pears are
tender. Remove the pears and set
aside (dont discard the poaching
water; simmered until slightly syrupy,
it can be used as syrup in cocktails).
gas 4. To make the sponge, put the
butter and caster sugar in a large
bowl and beat with an electric mixer
for 5 minutes or until light and fluffy.
Add the eggs a little at a time; fully
combine before adding more.
5 Whizz half the poached pears in
a blender until smooth. Stir half the
flour and half the baking powder
into the cake batter, followed by half
the pear pure. Repeat, then pour the
finished batter into the prepared tin
and level out. Bake for 55-60
minutes until a skewer pushed into
the centre comes out clean. Cool
in the tin for 15 minutes, then turn
out onto a wire rack to cool fully.
6 Remove the chai butter for the
buttercream from the fridge, cut it
into small pieces and set aside until
slightly softened. Put it in a large
mixing bowl and beat with an
electric mixer until smooth. Slowly
add the icing sugar, beating on high
speed until light and fluffy. Mix in
a little milk if the icing looks dry.
7 To assemble, spread the
buttercream over the cake, then pile
the remaining poached pears on top
and drizzle with the salted caramel.
2.2g fibre
make it sweet.
Edds poached pear cake

with chai-spiced
buttercream and salted
caramel drizzle
Martha Collison, quarter-nalist in 2014 and youngest ever contestant

BEHIND THE SCENES I thought thered
be a formal introduction to Mary,
Paul, Sue and Mel, but they just
wandered in as we were setting up.
You think: Should I say hello to Mary
Berry Should I approach her? Its
a bit like meeting the Queen! But
they were all lovely, as were the
crew. Relaxing with new friends
between bakes was wonderful. But
it was a bit grim when you knew
your bake had gone wrong and you
had to wait two hours for Paul and
Mary to tell you it was really bad
OUT-TAKE I made some awful clairs
Marthas mint,
chocolate and
blackcurrant
biscuits
in week seven. I was running out of

time and, in a complete frenzy trying
to make red icing, I knocked over an
industrial-size tub of food colouring.
It made a big pool on the carpet and
one of the poor runners scrubbed at
it for hours. The stain didnt come
out and all the benches had to be
moved to cover it up.
WHAT MARTHAS DOING NOW Ive just
written my first cookbook, Twist:
Creative Ideas to Reinvent Your Baking
(16.99; Harper Collins), and Im
going to lots of fantastic food
festivals to talk about it!
make it sweet.
Marthas mint, chocolate

and blackcurrant biscuits
OVEN TIME 14 MIN, PLUS CHILLING
These sandwich biscuits

are super simple to make and
moreish too.
Make the biscuits to the end
MAKE of step 3, then cool and keep
AHEAD
in an airtight container for
up to 24 hours. Make the buttercream
and sandwich between the biscuits
with the jam when ready to serve. Or
freeze the biscuits at the end of step 3
for up to a month. Defrost to fill.
Good quality strawberry,
FOOD
TEAMS raspberry or blackberry
TIP
jam would also work well.
re-rolling as necessary. Use a small

flower or star cutter to stamp out
the centre of half the circles to
make the biscuit tops.
3 Arrange the biscuits on the baking
sheets and bake for 12-14 minutes.
Cool for a few minutes before moving
to a wire rack to cool completely.
4 To fill, use an electric mixer to
beat the butter with the icing sugar,
milk and peppermint until fluffy. Pipe
in small blobs around the edge of the
cooled biscuit bases, spoon 1 tsp jam
into the centre, then add the tops.
PER BISCUIT 263kcals, 11.5g fat
(7.1g saturated), 2.6g protein, 36.8g
carbs (26.8g sugars), no salt, 1g fibre

75g soft light brown sugar
75g caster sugar
1 tsp vanilla extract
1 medium free-range egg
200g plain flour
50g cocoa powder
YOULL ALSO NEED
MARTHA COLLISON PORTRAIT: TARA FISHER
4cm round cutter, a small star or

flower cutter and a piping bag
gas 6 and line 2 baking sheets with
non-stick baking paper. Put the 125g
butter, brown sugar and caster sugar
in a mixing bowl. Beat with a wooden
spoon or electric mixer for a few
minutes until slightly paler. Mix in the
vanilla and egg. Gradually add the
flour and cocoa powder, beating as
you go, until the mixture starts to
clump together. Bring it together
with your hands, wrap in cling film
and chill for 45 minutes.
2 Remove the biscuit dough from the
fridge and roll it out between 2 pieces
of cling film to 5mm thick. Using a
4cm round cutter, cut out 16 circles,
Johns Arabian Nights

double upside-down cake
OVEN TIME 30-35 MIN, PLUS COOLING
Through lm, journalism

and travel the world is a smaller
place; the shroud of mystery has
been removed from the East.
Nonetheless, Im intrigued by its
beauty: the bejewelled colours
and scented avours. Those
qualities are what this cake
represents. The turkish delight
melts and pools beautifully.
Make the sponges up to
MAKE
AHEAD 12 hours in advance, cool
and keep in an airtight tin.
Make the filling just before serving.
FOR THE FILLING
75g unsalted butter

150g icing sugar
1 tsp whole milk
tsp peppermint extract
200g blackcurrant jam (see tip)
anything. Afterwards I confronted

him in the field I think I was lucky
to get through that week!
WHAT JOHNS DOING NOW Ive recently
opened John Whaites Kitchen
Cookery School on my familys farm
in Lancashire (johnwhaiteskitchen.
com) very exciting and written
my third book, Perfect Plates In
5 Ingredients (18.99; Kyle Books).
FOR THE CAKE
John Whaite,
GBBO 2013 champ
BEHIND THE SCENES Seeing the big
white tent for the first time was
surreal. That first day was long
(14 hours!) as everyone had to be
interviewed, so we went back to the
hotel and had wine together. But
my mind was buzzing a carousel
of cakes. We didnt formally meet
Mary and Paul they have to
maintain a level of impartiality
but Mel and Sue were always
mischievous and would steal our
blueberries or bits of chocolate.
OUT-TAKE One of our little games
was that if anything went wrong we
would start swearing like troopers
so they couldnt put it in the edit!
Very naughty. In Enriched Dough
Week, Paul said my Chelsea buns
were rubbish and didnt taste of
8 ripe figs
225g raspberries
75g pistachio kernels, plus extra
to decorate
170g rose and lemon turkish
delight, chopped into 1cm cubes
115g full-fat greek yogurt (the
food team likes Total)
225g caster sugar
Finely grated zest 1 large orange
225g self-raising flour
Icing sugar to dust
FOR THE FILLING
200ml double cream

150g full-fat greek yogurt
3 tbsp clear honey
YOULL ALSO NEED
2 x 20cm sandwich tins, greased

and base-lined with non-stick
baking paper
If you missed
John and Edd
talking about
Bake Off on our
August podcast,
delicious. dish,
you can still find
it on iTunes, on
the delicious.
website or on the
podcast app.
make it sweet.
Johns Arabian
Nights double
upside-down cake
NEXT
MONTH
Guilty (sweet)
pleasures

gas 6. For the cake, slice the figs
in half, then arrange them, cutside-down and in a single layer,
in the base of the cake tins. Divide
the raspberries between the tins
along with the 75g pistachios and
the turkish delight.
2 Beat together the butter, yogurt,
caster sugar and orange zest until
the sugar is more or less entirely
dissolved (I do this in my freestanding
mixer with paddle attachment,
but it can just as easily be done with
a handheld mixer in a mixing bowl).
Add the eggs, one at a time, beating
well after each addition if the
mixture splits, dont worry, its just
because the fat of the butter and
the fat of the egg yolks havent
emulsified, but it wont make any
difference to the finished cake.
Sift the flour, then fold it into the
mixture using a large spoon until
smooth and combined.
3 Divide the batter between the
cake tins, spreading it over the
topping ingredients be careful
not to displace them. Bake for
30-35 minutes until a skewer
pushed into the centre of each cake
comes out clean. There might be
a little raspberry mush on the
skewer, but dont let that fool you.
Allow the cakes to cool in the tins
for 10 minutes, then invert onto
a wire rack to cool completely.
4 To make the filling, whip the
double cream to soft, floppy peaks
using a whisk or electric mixer, then
whisk in the yogurt and honey. Make
sure the cakes are completely cool,
to avoid oozing, then place one cake
(the least pretty) on a plate or cake
stand with the cut-side of the figs
facing upwards. Spread the filling
over the cake, then top with the
second cake, again with the figs
facing upwards. Roughly chop a
few more pistachio kernels and
scatter them over the top, then sift
over a light dusting of icing sugar
and serve straightaway.
29.5g fat (15.6g saturated), 11g
0.5g salt, 3g fibre
winner.
THE COVER RECIPE
IF YOU MAKE ONE

PUDDING THIS MONTH
Clafoutis a Yorkshire pudding-custard hybrid with a French outt on is one of the easiest
desserts to make. You mix up a thick custard, add some fruit, stick it in the oven and the result
is amazing: a quiveringly soft pud studded with sharp fruit, with a delicately creamy centre.
Ive added almonds and a slosh of booze because Well, just because
Nectarine and
almond clafoutis
OVEN TIME 45-50 MIN
PHOTOGRAPH: KATE WHITAKER. FOOD STYLING: REBECCA WOOLLARD. STYLING: TONY HUTCHINSON
Make the batter up to 6

MAKE hours in advance and chill.
AHEAD
Add the fruit/nuts, then cook.
Freeze the unused egg
FOOD
TEAMS whites in a labelled bag
TIP
to use in other dishes.
3 large nectarines, thinly sliced
50g flaked almonds
50g ground almonds
3 tbsp plain flour
125g golden caster sugar
2 large free-range eggs,
plus 2 yolks (see tip)
250ml double cream
4 tbsp rum or brandy
and nuts in the dish, then lightly lay

the remaining fruit on top and scatter
over the remaining flaked almonds.
3 Bake for 45-50 minutes until
theres only the barest wobble
in the middle when you shake the
dish. Remove from the oven, leave
for 20 minutes, then serve with
cream or crme frache.
PER SERVING (FOR 6)
527kcals, 35.8g fat
(15.8g saturated),
10.5g protein, 34.3g
carbs (28.1g
sugars),
0.1g salt,
1.5g fibre
YOULL ALSO NEED
1.25 litre ovenproof dish, around

6cm deep
gas 4. Put half the nectarines and
half the flaked almonds in the
baking dish.
2 In a mixing bowl, stir together the
ground almonds, plain flour and
caster sugar with a pinch of salt.
Using a balloon whisk, slowly whisk
in the eggs and yolks, stirring in the
dry ingredients gradually to avoid
making the mixture lumpy. Once
the mixture has the consistency
of a thick paste, stir in the double
cream and alcohol to make a
smooth batter. Pour it over the fruit
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THE SANE VIEW
IS RED MEAT
REALLY THAT BAD
FOR YOU?
Barely a week goes by without red meat being linked with health problems
such as cancer and heart disease. But is it as bad as all that? Registered
dietitian Juliette Kellow gives the experts a good grilling
ed meat has been making

the news of late, and precious
little of it is of the good
variety. With headlines declaring the
likes of steak, bacon and sausages as
health hazards, its no wonder many
are cutting back on meat. In a recent
survey from the Vegetarian Society,
three out of 10 people reported theyd
eaten less meat in the past 12 months,
with another one in 10
saying they planned to cut
down or avoid it. Not
surprisingly, 58 per cent
said health was the reason
almost three times more
than those concerned about animal
welfare or food safety.
Lynne Elliott, chief executive of
the Vegetarian Society, says advice
from the World Health Organization
(WHO) has greatly affected meateating behaviour. In October 2015,
WHO classied red meat as being
probably carcinogenic in other
words it probably causes cancer and
processed meat as denitely
carcinogenic, putting it in the same
category as smoking and asbestos.

These classications were based
on research from the International
Agency for Research on Cancer
(IARC) that concluded bowel cancer
risk increased by 17 per cent for
every 100g of red meat eaten each
day, and by 18 per cent for every
50g of processed meat (meat thats
cured, salted, smoked or preserved,
Dunlop, Cancer Research UKs health

information ofcer. While it may
sound alarming, this simply shows
how condent IARC are that the link
is there. The risk from tobacco is
much higher. Its estimated that 3 per
cent of all cancers could be prevented
if no one ate processed or red meat
but 19 per cent of all cancers would be
prevented if no one smoked.
Its not just cancer,
though. In May of this
year, a paper in The
Journal of the American
Osteopathic Association
called Is meat killing us?
examined the effect of meat
consumption on mortality. Lead
researcher Dr Heather Fields from
the Mayo Clinic in Arizona says,
Studies consistently showed that an
increased intake, especially of
processed meat, was linked to an
increased risk of early death. People
with the highest intakes of red meat
were more likely to die from
cardiovascular disease and cancer
than those with the lowest.
Most nutrition experts agree red

meat can play an important part
in a healthy, balanced diet
including sausages, bacon, ham and

salami) eaten each day. The IARC
also found a possible link between
red meat and pancreatic and prostate
cancers, and processed meat with
stomach cancer.
PUTTING IT IN CONTEXT
Headlines reporting that eating
bacon is as bad for human health
as smoking may sound damning
but context is important, says Casey
your health.
WHAT IS TOO MUCH, THEN?
*ALL WEIGHTS ARE FOR COOKED MEAT UNLESS OTHERWISE STATED (BONES ARE NOT INCLUDED IN THE WEIGHT)
So does all this mean we should give

up meat altogether? Or can we still eat
some and, if so, how much? Advice
from the World Cancer Research
Fund has been consistent for the
past ve years: to lower the risk of
bowel cancer people should avoid
processed meat and limit the amount
of red meat to a maximum of 500g
a week (about 700g when raw).
In the UK, weve had ofcial
guidelines about eating meat since
2011. The Department of Health
recommends adults keep their intake
of red meat, which includes processed
meat, down to around 70g a day, says
nutritionist and expert for the Meat
Advisory Panel, Emma Derbyshire.
She also says, perhaps surprisingly,
that most people in the UK are
already within these guidelines.
BUT MEAT CAN BE GOOD, TOO

Most nutrition experts agree red
meat can play an important part in a
healthy, balanced diet. Its naturally
rich in protein, which boosts satiety
the feeling of fullness after eating
thats key for helping to manage
weight, Derbyshire says. Red meat
also provides many vitamins and
minerals, including iron, zinc,
selenium and B vitamins.
Many Brits have low intakes of
some of these nutrients: 46 per cent
of teenage girls and 26 per cent of
women aged 19-64 have extremely
low intakes of iron, and around half
have low intakes of selenium. Some
nutritionists are concerned that
scaremongering headlines may
mean intakes drop further.
These vulnerable groups often
consume well under 70g red meat a
day and could actually do with eating
more to improve their nutrition,
says Emma Derbyshire, adding that

choosing lean cuts, cooking without
fat and serving meat with more veg
will boost the healthiness of meaty
meals. A solution could be to eat
more non-meat foods rich in these
nutrients such as (for iron) oily sh,
eggs, nuts, seeds, pulses and fortied
breakfast cereals, as well as brazil
nuts and seafood for selenium.
Nevertheless, its easy to consume
more red meat than is recommended
with ham or bacon in lunchtime
sandwiches, fry-ups at the weekend,
salami antipasti, and evening meals
containing beef, lamb or pork and
thats before adding in the steaks,
bangers and burgers so many of us
eat more of during barbecue season.
EVERYTHING IN MODERATION
For meat-lovers, it seems the key
is to cut down rather than give
up meat completely. The recently
revised Eatwell Guide, which
denes government dietary
recommendations, puts the emphasis
on getting protein from sources
other than meat. Beans, pulses,
sh and eggs take priority and

advice now includes eat less red
and processed meat.
Dr Heather Fields agrees with
the advice. The evidence is variable
but, overall, for a longer and
healthier life, we should minimise
red and processed meat, and instead
eat a diet rich in plant-based foods.
While some people may not want
complete omission, they can try
cutting down and substitute plantbased proteins, sh or poultry.
Casey Dunlop concludes, Eating
lots of red or processed meat every
day isnt a healthy diet. So swap some
of it for sh, vegetables or chicken.
But dont worry about having a steak
or a bacon sandwich now and again.
Overall, the risks of eating meat are
much lower than for smoking.
So, the bottom line? As far as
health is concerned, theres no
need to go veggie. But the evidence
suggests we should re-evaluate
the idea of meat and two veg and
instead make veg the hero, with
a small amount of meat in a
supporting role.
PORTION KNOW-HOW
The maximum recommended amount of cooked red/processed
meat per week is 500g (about 700g raw). Heres how it adds up*
RED MEAT
1 thin slice roast meat
1 lamb chump chop
1 lamb cutlet
1 pork shoulder steak
1 pork chump chop
Rack of spare ribs (4)
140g (raw weight) steak
225g (raw weight) steak
GRAMS
30
70
50
135
170
60
102
163
PROCESSED MEAT
1 sausage
1 chipolata
1 rasher bacon
Quarter pounder
1 slice ham
1 slice Parma ham
1 slice salami
Large doner kebab
GRAMS
40
20
25
78
23
17
12
130
advertisement promotion.
A TASTE OF
BROOKLYN
Big Apple bulletins from the Bagel Guy
The thing you gotta know about Brooklyn, is that

the people is all what you might call independent
minded. You know what Im talking about? They do what
they want, the way they want, when they want. Thats
why I love them. Thats why I love Brooklyn. I see this
one guy, coming out of the Bagel Pub on 9th Street.
Dressed like Dorothy from The Wizard of Oz. He has on
red shoes and everything. I says, Honey, this aint
Kansas, you know. He says: At last! Im here! Im in the
Emerald City! And you must be the Wizard? Im a
wizard with a bagel, I says. That do you?
Talking of bagels and Brooklyn, this is the way theyre
eating them here now. Its fresh, its zingy, its got
textures. Its got a genuine taste of New York. You can try
it yourself wherever you are with a tasty New York
Bakery Co. poppy seed bagel.
CREAM CHEESE
+ RASPBERRIES
+ LEMON JUICE
+ ICING SUGAR
TOP BROOKLYN BAGEL SHO
Bagelsmith Theres always a hipp

than hip crowd in New Yorks hippe
bagel bar. And the bagels aint too shabby
either. 189 Bedford Ave.
Bagel Pub No ashy avours here, just
old-school quality stuffed with the
freshest ingredients. 287 9th St.
Smith St. Bagels The bagel shop that
never closes, for the city that never
sleeps. 202 Smith St.
Look out for the new Cheese bagel from September.

Visit newyorkbakeryco.com/recipes for more inspiration
lighter eating.
GOOD-FOR-YOU
MIDWEEK MEALS
RECIPES: LOTTIE COVELL. FOOD STYLING: CHARLIE CLAPP. PHOTOGRAPHS: STUART WEST. STYLING: SARAH BIRKS
10 great
dinners for
under 60
This months collection was a challenge:

10 avour-packed recipes, each feeding
four and altogether costing less than 60.
It took a bit of clever planning, but weve
stuck to our midweek promise and policy
of using British free-range and outdoorreared meat so you can save money and
still feel good about what youre eating
MIDWEEK
PROMISE
Your guarantee for every recipe
in this section: NO MORE THAN
10 ingredients
30 min hands-on time
650 calories per portion (but many
of the recipes have fewer)
10g sat fat per portion
PLUS
No unnecessary added sugar
Minimal washing up
YOUR MIDWEEK
SHOPPING LIST AND
STORECUPBOARD
Fresh
6 onions
3 red onions
4 lemons
8 large sweet
potatoes
1 bunch spring
onions
1 large cucumber
500g pack cherry
tomatoes
1 bunch celery
1 large broccoli
1 large cauliflower
1kg bag carrots
1 large round lettuce
1 large bunch fresh
flatleaf parsley
200g bag kale
1 basil plant
1 garlic bulb
2 courgettes
1 large baguette
Meat
6 British free-range
pork sausages
(400g pack)
unsmoked streaky
bacon rashers
2kg British
free-range whole
chicken
200ml tub half-fat

crme frache
2 litres whole/
semi-skimmed milk
Frozen
1kg bag spinach
907g bag frozen
garden peas
Off the shelf
500g bag pearl
barley
500g bag instant
polenta
15 free-range eggs
6 chicken stock
cubes (we like Kallo)
1kg pack spaghetti
1 jar clear honey
1 jar wholegrain
mustard
680g bottle passata
100g jar harissa
paste
2 x 400g tins
chickpeas
2 x 400g tins
butterbeans
FROM YOUR
STORECUPBOARD
Olive oil
Caster sugar
Salt and pepper
Dairy
200g pack feta
250g pack cheddar
150g pack dolcelatte
TOTAL COST 54.90*
VEGGIE ONE-POT
Butterbean and
vegetable stew

2 onions, finely sliced
2 garlic cloves,
crushed
4 carrots, chopped into
1cm cubes
600ml passata
Pinch caster sugar
200g frozen spinach
2 x 400g tins butterbeans,
drained and rinsed
large bunch fresh flatleaf
parsley, chopped
Handful fresh basil, roughly
chopped
TO SERVE
Crusty baguette slices

1 Heat a glug of oil in a large

flameproof casserole over
a medium heat. Add the onions
and fry for 2-3 minutes, then
add the garlic and carrots. Fry
for a further 5-10 minutes until
the carrots start to soften.
2 Add the passata along with
200ml water and a pinch of
sugar. Bring to a simmer and
bubble for 5 minutes, then add
the spinach and beans. Simmer
for a further 10 minutes until
hot, then taste and season with
salt and pepper.
3 Stir through the parsley
and basil, then serve in bowls
with crusty baguette slices.
PER SERVING 273kcals,
11.9g protein, 32g carbs (14.7g
sugars), 0.9g salt, 15.2g fibre
*PRICES BASED ON ONLINE SHOPPING AT OCADO AT TIME OF RECIPE DEVELOPMENT AND TESTING; EXCLUDES
STORECUPBOARD ITEMS. ITEMS WHERE WHOLE PACK SIZES HAVENT BEEN USED HAVE BEEN COSTED ACCORDINGLY
SHOPPING LIST
lighter eating.
MAIN COURSE SALAD
Pearl barley salad

OVEN TIME 35-40 MIN
3 carrots, thinly sliced

Olive oil for drizzling and
dressing
baguette, torn (its
fine if its a bit stale)
250g pearl barley
1 chicken stock cube
dissolved in 600ml freshly
boiled water
Zest and juice 1 lemon
250g cherry tomatoes, halved

bunch fresh flatleaf
parsley, roughly chopped
cucumber, chopped
100g feta, crumbled
TO SERVE
Handful fresh basil,

roughly chopped
1 Heat the oven to 200C/180C
fan/gas 6. Put the carrots in
a roasting tray with a drizzle
of oil and season with salt and
pepper. Roast for 35-40 minutes

until tender and golden. For the
final 10 minutes, add the torn
baguette and a little more oil;
turn the bread after 5 minutes
so its golden on both sides.
2 Meanwhile, put the pearl
barley in a large saucepan with
the chicken stock and bring to
the boil. Cook over a mediumhigh heat for 25 minutes or
until the stock is absorbed and
the barley is tender. Tip into a
bowl and allow to cool a little.
3 While the barley is cooking,

prepare a dressing. Mix the
lemon zest and juice with 3 tbsp
oil, then season to taste with
salt and pepper.
4 Stir the roasted carrots into
the cooled pearl barley, along
with the remaining ingredients.
Toss with the dressing and
serve with basil sprinkled over.
18.1g protein, 71.1g carbs (8.3g
GLUTEN-FREE DISH
Roasted cauliower
and broccoli
polenta
OVEN TIME 25-30 MIN
1 large cauliflower, cut into

florets, leaves reserved
large head broccoli, cut
into florets
Olive oil for drizzling
800ml milk
boiled water
250g instant polenta
80g cheddar, grated
fan/gas 6. Put the cauliflower
florets and leaves in a large
roasting tray. Add the broccoli
SIMPLE SUPPER
Baked sweet
potatoes with
spicy chickpeas
OVEN TIME 35-40 MIN
4 large sweet potatoes

Olive oil for drizzling and
frying
100g feta, crumbled
1 red onion, finely sliced
200g kale
50g harissa
bunch spring onions,
thinly sliced (green tops
included)
2 x 400g tins chickpeas,
drained and rinsed
1 Heat the oven to 200C/
180C fan/gas 6. Put the
sweet potatoes on a baking
tray and drizzle with a little
oil. Bake for 35-40 minutes
until tender. When 5 minutes

remain, halve the potatoes
and crumble over the feta.
Return to the oven until the
feta starts to turn golden.
2 Halfway through the sweet
potato cooking time (about
15 minutes before theyre
ready), heat a little oil in a
frying pan and fry the red
onion for 5-10 minutes until
soft. Add the kale and
harissa with a splash of
water, then stir-fry for 2-3
minutes. Add the spring
onions and chickpeas and
heat through, then season.
3 Spoon the chickpea
mixture over the sweet
potatoes and serve.
(21.5g sugars), 1.2g salt,
19.8g fibre
and drizzle everything with oil.

Season with salt and pepper,
then roast for 25-30 minutes
until golden and crisp.
2 Meanwhile, bring the milk
and stock to the boil in a large
saucepan. Put the polenta in
a jug, then pour it in a steady
stream into the boiling liquid.
Stir vigorously with a wooden
spoon until the mixture is
smooth and thick. Season well
with salt and pepper.
3 To serve, divide the polenta
among 4 plates, then top with
the roasted veg and sprinkle
with the grated cheddar and
ground black pepper.
23.2g fat (10g saturated), 25.7g
protein, 62.4g carbs (15.3g
lighter eating.
THE PASTA DISH
Creamy broccoli
and bacon
spaghetti
400g spaghetti
large head broccoli, cut
into small florets
1 onion, finely chopped
unsmoked streaky bacon
rashers, roughly chopped
100ml half-fat crme frache
5 free-range egg yolks
(freeze the whites in
a labelled freezer bag)
Grated cheddar to serve
(optional)
1 Bring a large saucepan of
water to the boil, then cook
the pasta for 10-12 minutes
FRIDAY NIGHT DINNER
Polenta pizza with

cherry tomatoes
and dolcelatte
OVEN TIME 25-30 MIN
2 courgettes, very thinly

sliced lengthways with
a vegetable peeler
200g cherry tomatoes, halved
600ml milk
boiled water
250g instant polenta
50g cheddar, grated
80ml passata
80g dolcelatte cheese,
thinly sliced
Handful fresh basil leaves
fan/gas 7. Spread the courgettes
and tomatoes over a large
baking sheet, then drizzle with
oil and season with salt and
pepper. Roast for 10 minutes,

then transfer to a plate (set the
baking sheet aside and leave
the oven switched on).
2 Meanwhile, put the milk and
stock in a large saucepan and
bring to the boil. Put the polenta
in a jug. When the liquid comes
to the boil, pour in the polenta
and stir continuously with a
wooden spoon until the mixture
thickens and starts to bubble.
Turn down the heat, then stir
in the cheddar and season with
plenty of salt and pepper.
3 Pour the cheesy polenta onto
the baking sheet and spread
out into a thin, even round.
Spread over the passata (dont
worry that there is only a very
thin layer). Top with the roasted
veg and dolcelatte. Bake for
15-20 minutes until golden,
then garnish with basil leaves.
PER SERVING 469kcals, 16.9g
fat (9g saturated), 23g protein,
54.5g carbs (10.5g sugars),
until al dente, adding the

broccoli to the pan for
the last 4-5 minutes. Drain
in a colander, then drizzle
with a little oil.
2 Meanwhile, heat a glug of
oil in a large frying pan, then
fry the onion for 3-4 minutes.
Add the garlic and bacon,
then fry for 5-10 minutes
until the bacon is crisp. Take
the pan off the heat.
3 Add the pasta and broccoli
to the pan with the bacon
mixture in it and stir
everything together
thoroughly. Stir in the
crme frache and egg yolks,
then season well. Serve
immediately, sprinkled with
grated cheddar, if you like.
fat (7.7g saturated), 24.4g
THE TRAYBAKE
Honey-mustard
sausages with
sweet potato
wedges
SERVES 4. HANDS-ON TIME
30 MIN, OVEN TIME 30-35 MIN
4 tbsp clear honey

sausages
2 red onions, sliced
4 sweet potatoes, sliced
into wedges
round lettuce, shredded
cucumber
2 celery sticks, thinly sliced
Juice lemon
1 Heat the oven to 200C/
180C fan/gas 6. Mix the
honey and mustard in a

small bowl or jug. Put the
sausages, onions and sweet
potato wedges in a large
roasting tin, then pour over
the honey mixture. Toss,
then season with salt and
pepper and drizzle with oil.
Roast for 30-35 minutes
until the sausages are
sticky and cooked through.
2 Meanwhile, toss the
lettuce, cucumber and
celery in a bowl. Drizzle over
a little oil and the lemon
juice, taste and season.
3 Serve the sausages and
wedges with the salad.
31.8g fat (10g saturated),
10.4g fibre
THE ROAST
Roast chicken with

pearl barley
OVEN TIME 1 HOUR 15 MIN
2kg British free-range chicken

Olive oil
250g pearl barley
2 chicken stock cubes
boiled water
250g frozen spinach
307g frozen peas
Juice 1 lemon
2 tbsp half-fat crme frache
fan/gas 6. Put the chicken in a
roasting tin, drizzle with oil and
season with salt and pepper.
Roast for 1 hour 15 minutes
or until cooked through the
juices should run clear when
the thickest part of the thigh is
pierced. Rest for 10 minutes.
2 When 20 minutes of the

chicken roasting time remains,
prepare the barley. In a large
saucepan, heat a glug of olive
oil, then fry the onion for
3-4 minutes until soft. Add the
garlic and fry for a further
2-3 minutes. Add the barley
and cook, stirring often, for
1-2 minutes. Add the stock and
simmer for 15-20 minutes.
3 Stir the spinach into the
barley mixture and simmer for
5 minutes, then add the peas
and cook for another 5 minutes.
The liquid should have been
absorbed and the barley should
be tender with a little bite. Take
off the heat, then stir in the
lemon juice, crme frache and
juices from the roasting tin.
Season, then serve with half
the chicken (keep the rest to
make the soup recipe, right).
lighter eating.
THE LEFTOVERS DISH
Roast chicken,
vegetable and
noodle soup

2 celery sticks, finely sliced
4 carrots, finely sliced
2 chicken stock cubes
dissolved in 1.5 litres boiled

water (or make your own
stock from the carcass from
The Roast see left)
250g spaghetti, broken into
3-4cm pieces
300g frozen spinach
300g frozen peas
Juice 1 lemon
Leftover cooked chicken
from The Roast (see left),
shredded
TO SERVE
Crusty baguette (optional)

1 Heat a glug of oil in a large,
deep saucepan over a medium
heat. Fry the onion, celery and
carrots for 10 minutes, stirring
regularly, so the veg colour a
little and start to soften.
2 Add the garlic and chicken
stock and bring to a simmer,
then cook for 5 minutes. Add
the spaghetti and spinach, then

simmer for a further 5 minutes.
3 Add the peas, lemon juice
and shredded roast chicken
to the soup, then simmer for a
final 5-6 minutes until the
spaghetti and veg are tender.
Serve with crusty baguette.
protein, 62.6g carbs (14g
MORE IDEAS ON THE

FIND
delicious. WEBSITE
For budget dinner recipes vist

deliciousmagazine.co.uk/budget
lighter eating.
NEXT
MONTH
The 10 healthy
Italian meals
every cook
needs to know
SPEEDY SUPPER
Pea and bacon

frittata
GRILL TIME 5-10 MIN

1 onion, finely sliced
unsmoked streaky bacon
rashers, roughly chopped
10 free-range eggs, beaten

300ml milk
bunch spring onions,
roughly chopped
300g frozen peas, defrosted
30g cheddar, grated
1 Heat a glug of oil in a 23cm
diameter frying pan over a
medium heat. Fry the onion and
bacon for 5-8 minutes until the
bacon starts to turn golden.

Add the garlic and cook for
a minute or so more.
2 Meanwhile, in a measuring
jug, beat together the eggs and
milk, then season. Stir in the
spring onions and peas.
3 Pour the egg mixture into the
frying pan, then turn down
the heat to low. Gently cook for
10 minutes, without disturbing
the bottom of the pan. Heat the

grill to high.
3 Sprinkle the cheese on top
of the frittata, then put it under
the grill for 5-10 minutes
until the cheese melts and the
frittata is set and golden.
26.9g fat (8g saturated), 29.3g
FAULTLESS
FASHION
Autumn is on its way, and
White Stuffs forecast is in.
Prepare to be blown away by
its stylish new-season arrivals
ts time to put away those shorts and

t-shirts once again, but fear not White
Stuffs key pieces will have you looking
chic and ready for the season ahead.
Its time to be bold and change it up this
autumn. Denim at the ofce? Sure.
Knitwear without sleeves? Why not?
Faultlessly attering peplums? Yes please!
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whatever the weather.
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your discount, take this page
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receive an offer code to use online.
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The worlds healthiest

way to eat
Its been around for aeons, and theres a reason the

Mediterranean approach to food, with its emphasis
on wholegrains, plenty of veg and good olive oil,
has stood the test of time: the food tastes amazing
Spelt arancini with

mozzarella, porcini
and thyme
RECIPES SUE QUINN PHOTOGRAPHS ALAN BENSON
lighter eating.
The traditional Mediterranean way of eating,

long praised for its health benets, is commonly
described as a diet, but thats a term I loathe.
The truth is, its a collection of eating patterns
followed by people in the region, and its now widely
recognised as the healthiest approach to food in the world.
Yogurt and cheese, olive oil, fruit, leafy greens, nuts, seafood,
wholegrains and pulses are cornerstones of the Mediterranean
kitchen. If you want to embrace these healthy eating habits
and enjoy the physical benets, delicious food and wonderful
avours, youve come to the right place
SUE QUINN
Spelt arancini with

mozzarella, porcini
and thyme
140g dry breadcrumbs

125g mozzarella ball, chopped
Vegetable oil for deep-frying
MAKES 24. HANDS-ON TIME 1 HOUR,

PLUS CHILLING
These little bites, a speciality

of Sicily, are traditionally made
with risotto rice, but I love the
nutty avour and rmer texture
of spelt. Here Ive lled them
with melting mozzarella. They
go down a treat served as nger
food with drinks, or as a main
course with a big bowl of salad.
Prepare the spelt to the end
MAKE
AHEAD of step 2 up to 24 hours in
advance, then cover and
chill. You can also shape and coat
the arancini up to 6 hours in advance
(step 5); keep covered in the fridge.
FOOD If the arancini mixture is
TEAMS a little wet when shaping
TIP
(step 5), stir in 1 tbsp flour.
50g dried porcini mushrooms
200ml boiling water
700ml chicken or vegetable stock,
plus extra if needed
250g pearled spelt
50g parmesan (or vegetarian
alternative), grated
1 tbsp chopped fresh thyme leaves,
plus an extra sprig to garnish
Pinch chilli flakes
Finely grated zest lemon and
squeeze juice, plus wedges to serve
1 small garlic clove, finely chopped
100g plain flour, plus 1 tbsp extra
if needed (see tip)
YOULL ALSO NEED

1 Soak the porcini in the boiling
water for 15 minutes, then drain,
keeping the soaking liquid. Squeeze
the excess liquid from the porcini,
then finely chop and set aside.
2 Pour the porcini soaking liquid
and stock into a saucepan and
bring to the boil. Add the spelt,
then reduce the heat and simmer,
stirring occasionally, until the stock
is completely absorbed and the
grains are tender this should take
around 15-20 minutes. Add a splash
of water or extra stock if the liquid
is absorbed before the spelt is
cooked. Alternatively, if theres quite
a bit of liquid left when the spelt is
cooked, drain it off. Remove the
pan from the heat and stir in the
parmesan (or vegetarian alternative).
Taste and adjust the seasoning, then
stir in 1 of the eggs. Transfer the
mixture to a shallow bowl and allow
to cool, then chill for an hour or
so to firm up (or see Make Ahead).
3 Meanwhile, heat the olive oil in
a small frying pan. Add the chopped
porcini, thyme leaves, chilli and
lemon zest, then season with salt
and pepper. Fry for a few minutes
until aromatic. Add the garlic and
lemon juice and cook, stirring, for a
few minutes or until cooked through.
Remove from the heat and set aside.
4 Crack the 2 remaining eggs into
a shallow bowl and lightly beat with
a fork. Spread out the 100g flour

and breadcrumbs on separate
plates, then season the flour.
5 Stir the porcini mixture and the
mozzarella into the chilled spelt
(see tip). Wet your hands, then roll
a heaped tablespoon of the mixture
into a 4.5cm ball, squeezing gently
so it keeps its shape. Repeat with
the rest of the mixture to make 24
balls. Dredge each in the flour, then
dunk in the beaten egg and roll in
the breadcrumbs (see Make Ahead).
6 Heat the vegetable oil to 170180C on a digital thermometer. In
batches, lower the arancini into the
hot oil using a slotted spoon and fry
until deep golden (about 2 minutes),
then remove and drain on kitchen
paper. Sprinkle with salt, then serve
garnished with thyme, with lemon
PER ARANCINO 151kcals, 6.7g fat
0.6g fibre
Warm salad of
farro, roasted
vegetables and
chestnuts,
p100
A BIT ABOUT SUE

A cookbook
author and food
writer, Sue
Quinn is a
former foreign
correspondent.
She was born
and raised in
Sydney but now
lives in the UK.
Her specialisms
include healthy
eating, and
shes a regular
contributor to
the delicious.
Sane View
series; read her
latest instalment
on p86.
Warm salad of farro,

roasted vegetables and
chestnuts
TEAM
FAVOURITE
Ella Tarn,
cookery
assistant
The arancini
(p99) go down
dangerously
easily. The
spelt gives a bite
that you dont
quite get
with rice.
SERVES 4-6 AS A SIDE. HANDS-ON

TIME 30 MIN, OVEN TIME 45 MIN
Farro is such a beautiful

wheat grain, bursting with bre,
protein and other good things
as well as being chewy and
delicious. If you cant nd it,
substitute it with spelt (although
its much softer than farro).
This is a glorious autumnal or
winter dish, and one I often
adapt according to what
vegetables I have. Keep the
beetroot in, as its colour is vivid
against the grains and it adds an
earthy sweetness.
Make the salad up to
MAKE
AHEAD 12 hours in advance; cool,
then keep covered in the
fridge. Bring to room temperature
and toss with the remaining
dressing just before serving.
FOOD Pearl barley would also
TEAMS work well as the grain
TIP
in this dish.
Sizzling garlic
prawns
with nduja
150g celeriac, chopped into

3cm pieces
150g carrots, chopped into
3cm pieces
200g raw beetroot, chopped into
3cm pieces
3 tbsp olive oil
2 tbsp clear honey
1 tsp sumac (from the spice aisle
of supermarkets)
Leaves from 1 fresh lemon thyme
or regular thyme sprig
tsp sea salt flakes, plus extra
for seasoning
50g vacuum-packed chestnuts
140g pearled farro (find it in large
supermarkets or health food
shops, or see introduction and tip)
2 tbsp mixed seeds, such
as pumpkin seeds and
sunflower seeds
Handful fresh flatleaf parsley
leaves, roughly chopped
Extra-virgin olive oil for drizzling
ingredients in a screw-top jar and

shake well. As soon as the farro is
ready, add half the dressing and
toss do this while the grains are
still hot so they absorb the flavours.
Set aside and keep warm.
4 Transfer the roasted vegetables
to a serving platter or bowl. Add
the farro, seeds and most of the
parsley. Gently toss with enough
of the remaining dressing to
generously coat, then taste and
adjust the seasoning if necessary
the farro might need quite a bit
of salt. Serve warm or at room
temperature, scattered with the
remaining parsley and drizzled
with extra-virgin olive oil.
protein, 43.9g carbs (19g sugars),
FOR THE DRESSING
SERVES 2-4 AS A STARTER. HANDS-ON
2 tbsp white balsamic vinegar

2 tbsp walnut oil
1 tbsp clear honey
TIME 25 MIN
1 First, get your vegetables on

the go. Heat the oven to 200C/
180C fan/gas 6. Put the vegetables
in a large roasting tin in a single
layer. Whisk 2 tbsp of the olive oil
with the honey, sumac and thyme,
season with sea salt and black
pepper, then pour over the veg and
toss to coat. Roast for 30 minutes,
then add the chestnuts, shaking to
coat them in the oil, and roast for
15 minutes more or until everything
is softened and golden.
2 Meanwhile, put the farro, the
tsp sea salt and the remaining
1 tbsp oil in a saucepan. Pour in
700ml water and simmer for 20-25
minutes until the grains are tender
bear in mind that farro retains
some bite and chewiness when
cooked. If the water is absorbed
before the grains are done, add
a little boiling water; if theres excess
liquid when cooked, drain it off.
3 While the grains are cooking,
make the dressing. Put all the
Sizzling garlic
prawns with nduja
Nduja is a ery spreadable

sausage from Calabria buy it in
delis and online. The flavour and
spicy kick elevate a simple dish
into something special. Its not
a pretty sausage (traditionally
its packed in a pigs intestine and
tied with string), but it melts into
whatever dish youre cooking.
90ml olive oil for frying
1 large handful fresh flatleaf
parsley, leaves roughly chopped
40-60g nduja (see introduction),
cut or torn into small pieces
750g sustainable raw medium
king prawns with shells
Finely grated zest lemon, plus
lemon wedges to serve
Crusty bread to serve
1 Pour the oil into a large frying
pan set over a low-medium heat.
Add the chopped garlic and parsley,
then stir constantly for a couple of
minutes so the garlic and parsley
infuse the oil you dont really want
to fry them.
lighter eating.
2 Add the nduja and stir until melted

into the oil. Turn the heat to high, then
add the prawns and cook, stirring,
until pink (about 3 minutes).
3 Sprinkle the lemon zest and some
salt over the prawns, then take the
pan to the table for guests to serve
themselves, with lemon wedges to
squeeze over and crusty bread
to mop up the oil.
20g fat (2.7g saturated), 34g protein,
1.3g fibre
Spaghetti with red

chicory, bacon and
garlic crumbs
Spaghetti with red

chicory, bacon and
garlic crumbs
The bitterness of the chicory

and the saltiness of the bacon,
tamed a bit by loads of lemon
zest, is a combination that makes
my mouth dance. I absolutely
love the freshness of this pasta
dish; its a bright, light meal.
Use radicchio if you cant nd
red chicory theyre from the
same family. If youre very
organised and have everything
prepped (Im rarely that clever,
by the way), everything will be
ready at the same time.
400g spaghetti
1 tbsp olive oil for frying, plus
an extra splash
2 thick rashers British free-range
smoked streaky bacon, sliced into
matchsticks (this is easier if you
freeze it for 30 minutes first)
250g red chicory, thinly sliced,
a few of the red tips torn (or see
recipe intro)
2 tbsp dry white wine
Small handful fresh flatleaf
parsley leaves
FOR THE GARLIC CRUMBS

30g quality fresh breadcrumbs,
ideally made from sourdough
or olive oil bread
lighter eating.
Yogurt-marinated
lamb with charred
tomato relish
in flatbread
4 When the pasta is cooked, drain

it, reserving a little of the cooking
liquid. Tip the pasta into the frying
pan, then return to a low heat
and add a splash each of olive oil
and reserved pasta liquid. Gently
toss to combine and warm through,
adding more oil or liquid if the
pasta looks dry.
7 Add the lemon zest, parsley, torn
chicory tips and half the garlic
crumbs to the frying pan and gently
toss. Serve immediately, sprinkled
with the remaining garlic crumbs.
6g fibre
For more ways to use smoked
bacon, see Loose Ends
Yogurt-marinated lamb
with charred tomato
relish in flatbread
PLUS MARINATING
BOOK
OFFER
These recipes are
from Easy
Mediterranean by
Sue Quinn (14.99;
Murdoch Books).
You can buy a copy
for the special
price of 11, with
free P&P, by
calling MDL on
01256 302699 and
quoting the code
GLR JA4.
NEXT
MONTH
Why it may be
time to rethink
breakfast
1 Bring a large saucepan of water

to the boil and add some salt
(not too much, though, as salty
bacon is in play here).
2 While its coming to the boil, make
the garlic crumbs. Heat the oil in
a large frying pan, then add the
breadcrumbs and a pinch of salt
and stir-fry over a high heat until
the breadcrumbs just start to smell
toasty (about 3 minutes). Add the
garlic and cook, stirring to stop it
burning, for a couple of minutes
more. Take the frying pan off the
heat and stir in the grated lemon
zest, then spread the breadcrumbs
out on a plate so they stay crisp.
Wipe the pan clean.
3 Add the pasta to the boiling water.
Heat the olive oil in the clean frying
pan, then add the bacon and fry
over a medium heat until starting
to turn golden. Add the sliced
chicory (set the tips aside) and fry
for a few minutes more, stirring
often, until just softened. Pour in the
wine. While its bubbling up, scrape
the bottom of the pan with a wooden
spoon to loosen any caramelised
bits. Take the pan off the heat.
This lamb recipe is inspired by

a fond memory of my distant
backpacking days: watching the
sunset from a clifftop on the
Greek island of Santorini, while
devouring the most delicious
souvlaki I have ever eaten.
Marinating the lamb in yogurt is
not strictly traditional, but it helps
tenderise the meat and carries the
flavour of the spices.
FOOD
TEAMS
TIP
Marinating the lamb

overnight will intensify
the flavours.
120g full-fat Greek yogurt

Grated zest and juice 1 lemon,
plus wedges to serve
2 tbsp olive oil for marinating
and frying
1 tsp smoked paprika
1 tsp ground cumin
1 tsp dried oregano
600g British lamb neck fillet,
cut into 3cm cubes
Warm flatbreads, mixed salad
leaves and a large handful mixed
fresh herbs to serve
FOR THE TOMATO RELISH
2 large ripe tomatoes

garlic clove, crushed
or to taste
1 tbsp sherry vinegar or to taste
Pinch aleppo pepper (from
ottolenghi.co.uk) or cayenne
pepper
tsp clear honey
1 In a large, shallow ceramic
or glass bowl, stir together the
yogurt, lemon zest and juice,
garlic, 1 tbsp of the olive oil, the
spices, oregano and some salt and
black pepper. Add the lamb and
mix with your hands to coat, then
cover with cling film and transfer
to the fridge to marinate for at
least a couple of hours or overnight
(see food teams tip).
2 While the lamb is marinating,
make the tomato relish. Heat the
grill to high and line a grill tray with
foil. Cook the tomatoes as close
to the element as you can, turning
them now and then, until theyre
blackened and blistered all over.
Transfer the tomatoes and their
juices to a food processor. Add the
garlic, olive oil, sherry vinegar,
aleppo or cayenne pepper, honey
and some salt and black pepper.
Whizz until you have a slightly
chunky sauce. Taste and add more
salt, pepper, oil or vinegar if needed.
Cool, then chill until needed.
3 About 30 minutes before youre
ready to cook the lamb, remove it
from the fridge to return to room
temperature. Heat a frying pan until
very hot, then add the remaining
1 tbsp olive oil. Scrape the excess
marinade off the lamb, then add to
the pan and fry, shaking the pan
frequently, for 5-8 minutes or until
charred on the outside and done to
your liking on the inside.
4 Stuff the warm flatbreads with the
lamb, salad leaves, herbs and
tomato relish and serve with lemon
2.8g fibre
leftovers.
LOOSE ENDS
Dont let this months special ingredients linger in your kitchen
make the most of them with these smart and easy ideas
BARLEY MALT
SYRUP/EXTRACT
GLAZED ONIONS
Cut 4 onions into
FROM
BAGELS
thin wedges, then
P113
fry in a large
knob of melted
butter until soft. Add 1 tbsp malt
syrup and a small handful of
fresh thyme leaves, then cook
until caramelised. Season well,
then serve with pork and mash.
BREAD GLAZE
Add a splash of malt syrup to
an egg glaze for a conker-like
finish. Great for pretzels.
HALLOUMI
HALLOUMI
SALAD
Toss salad leaves
with chopped
fresh mint, thinly
sliced orange and roasted red
peppers from a jar. Fry 1cm
slices of halloumi in a little oil
until golden. Mix 2 parts olive
oil with 1 part lemon juice and
a splash of orange juice, then
toss with the salad. Serve the
warm halloumi on top.
CHEESE BURGER
Cut 100g halloumi into 1cm
slices and put in a shallow dish.
In a small bowl, mix 2 tbsp
olive oil, 1 crushed garlic clove,
1 tsp smoked paprika, the juice
of lemon and a handful
chopped fresh coriander. Pour
over the halloumi, cover and
chill for 2 hours. Remove the
halloumi from the marinade,
then griddle on both sides until
golden. Spread 2 burger buns
with onion chutney, then
sandwich the halloumi with
sliced red onion and tomato.
WORDS: ELLA TARN. PHOTOGRAPH: CHARLIE RICHARDS. STYLING: WEI TANG
FROM
CRISPY
HALLOUMI
FRY UP
P29
GIN
G&T LOLLIES
Put 50g caster
sugar in a small
pan with 50ml
water. Gently
heat until the sugar dissolves,
then set aside to cool. Mix 700ml
tonic with 200ml gin and the
cooled sugar syrup, then pour
into 10 x 100ml ice lolly moulds.
Put a thin slice of cucumber
into each, then freeze until solid.
SPIKED PASTA SAUCE
Fry 1 finely chopped onion and
2 crushed garlic cloves in olive
oil until soft. Add 1 tbsp tomato
pure and cook for 1 minute.
Add 2 tins plum tomatoes, stir
to break up, then cook until
reduced by a third. Add 60ml
gin and cook for 5 minutes. Stir
in 3 tbsp double cream, then
season and serve with penne.
FROM
MELON AND
GIN GRANITA
P43
OATMEAL
CRUMBED
CHICKEN
FROM
CHEDDAR AND
Bash
2 chicken
CHARD TART
P70
breasts between
2 pieces of baking
paper with a rolling pin until
1cm thick. Put 50g seasoned
plain flour, 2 beaten eggs and
75g oatmeal into 3 separate
bowls. Dip the chicken into the
flour, then the egg, then the
oatmeal. Fry in olive oil on both
sides until crisp and cooked.
OATY SMOOTHIE
Add 2 tbsp oatmeal to your
smoothie. For a less grainy
result, whizz the oatmeal in a
food processor before blending
with your smoothie ingredients.
Oatmeal works particularly
well in banana smoothies.
SMOKED BACON
PASTA BAKE
FROM
Heat the oven
SPAGHETTI
WITH RED
to 200C/180C
CHICORY
fan/gas 6. Fry
P101
6 smoked bacon
rashers until crisp. Cook 400g
penne until al dente, then drain
and tip into a baking dish with a
500g tub of fresh cheese sauce.
Break the bacon into shards,
stir into the pasta and season.
Top with grated cheddar, then
bake for 30-40 minutes until
golden and bubbling.
BACON SCONES
Heat the oven to 220C/200C
fan/gas 7. Fry 12 bacon rashers
until crisp and golden. Cool,
then break into small pieces.
Stir into a basic savoury scone
mix (search classic scones at
deliciousmagazine.co.uk), just
before adding the liquid, then
bring everything together into a
dough. Shape and bake as in
the recipe.
WHOLEGRAIN
MUSTARD
EVERYDAY
DRESSING
Whisk 1 tbsp
wholegrain
mustard with
tbsp clear honey and the zest
and juice of 1 lemon in a small
bowl. Season well. Gradually
whisk in 4 tbsp extra-virgin
olive oil until thick.
WELSH RAREBIT
In a blender, whizz 150g strong
cheddar pieces, 1 tbsp
wholegrain mustard, tbsp
Worcestershire sauce,
and 60ml stout to a smooth
paste. Lightly toast 4 slices of
sourdough bread. Heat the grill
to high. Divide the rarebit
evenly among the toasts,
spreading it out to the edges.
Put the toasts on a baking
sheet and grill until the rarebit
is golden and bubbling.
FROM
HONEYED
SAUSAGES
WITH SLAW
P63
Food tastes
better shared
Have you ever noticed how much more pleasure you get from something youve made when
you enjoy it with your nearest and dearest? Try Jo Wheatleys crowd-pleasing recipes made
with fresh and creamy Philadelphia and discover the joys for yourself
ifes little pleasures deserve to be

shared. That couldnt be any truer
when it comes to food especially
when you create dishes with quality
products such as Philadelphia.
Whether you make a main course, snack
or dessert with the cream cheese, it will be
a guaranteed winner with your friends.

Its fresh taste and creamy consistency will
bring almost any recipe to life.
Discover just how good it is by trying
food writer and TV baker Jo Wheatleys
enticing Philadelphia recipes. An all-round
angel in the kitchen, she gets great joy from
Philadelphia coconut
and citrus tart
OVEN TIME 38 MIN, PLUS COOLING
220g digestive biscuits

100g melted butter
100g toasted desiccated coconut
320ml double cream
Juice and zest 2 lemons and 2 limes
4 medium free-range eggs
200g caster sugar
210g Philadelphia Original
60g icing sugar
1 tsp vanilla extract
1 Heat the oven to 200C/180C fan/gas 6.
Whizz the biscuits to ne crumbs in a food
processor. Stir in the butter and half the
coconut, then spoon into a 20cm springform
tin. Make a base and sides by pressing with
the back of a spoon. Bake for 8 minutes,
then remove from oven and leave to cool.
Lower oven to 160C/140C fan/gas 2.
2 Whisk 120ml of the double cream with the
juice and most of the zest, the eggs and
caster sugar. Pour into the base, then bake
for 25-30 minutes until set. Cool, then chill
for 2 hours. Next, whisk the remaining
cream, Philadelphia, icing sugar, vanilla and
remaining coconut to soft peaks. Spoon
into the tart, top with the reserved zest,
then chill for 30 minutes before serving.
PER SERVING (FOR 12) 484kcals, 35.3g

fat (21.9g saturated), 5.3g protein, 34.9g
carbs (26.5g sugars) 0.6g salt, 2.3g bre
making things that other people will love.

Your friends will adore the sharp contrast
of the citrus curd under the fresh Philadelphia
topping in the tart. The creaminess of the
Philadelphia in the dip, meanwhile, lends
itself just as well to chunky slices of fresh
bread and crispbreads, as it does to crudits.
Philadelphia layered dip

PLUS CHILLING
200g cooked baby beetroots

in malt vinegar
50ml low-fat natural yogurt
280g Philadelphia Light
100g fresh green pesto
Crudits to serve, such as baby
carrots, radishes and grissini
1 Whizz the baby beetroots and yogurt
to a smooth pure in a food processor.
Season with salt and black pepper,
then carefully spoon into the base of

a 500ml jar (a Kilner jar is perfect).
2 Whip the Philadelphia gently, then
carefully spoon half of it into the jar
on top of the beetroot layer. Next add
a layer of pesto, then nally top with
the rest of the Philadelphia. Smooth
the top carefully, then chill in the
fridge until youre ready to serve.
3 Sit the jar in the middle of a
large platter surrounded with the
crudits for dipping.
PER SERVING (FOR 10) 93kcals, 7.4g
fat (2.7g saturated), 2.9g protein, 3.2g
carbs (3.1g sugars) 0.5g salt, 0.7g bre
I always have
Philadelphia in my
fridge, as its a product
I can rely on. Its
creaminess adds great
avour and texture to
any dish
For more heavenly ideas, visit philadelphia.co.uk
N I N E PA G E S O F K N OW - H OW T O G ET YO U C O O K I N G
S M A R T E R , FA ST E R A N D W I T H G R E AT E R C O N F I D E N C E
M E ET O U R
EXPERTS
SEP T EMBER 2016
REBECCA
WOOLLARD
Food editor
LOTTIE
COVELL
Deputy
food editor
TECHNIQUE: HOW
TO MAKE SWEET
PASTRY p109
Every cook needs
a foolproof recipe for
crisp, buttery pastry
ELLA TARN
Cookery
assistant
LUCAS
HOLLWEG
Chef and food
writer
THE CHALLENGE:
BAGELS p112
XANTHE CLAY
Chef, writer, and
preserves &
freezing queen
Light with just enough

chew, these beauties
are crying out for
cream cheese
PERFECT RICE EVERY TIME p110

CHARLIE
TURNBULL
Cheese expert &
owner of Dorset
deli Turnbulls
BE A BE T TER COOK
BE A BE T TER COOK
Follow these steps to make sure it

always turns out light and fluffy
THIS MONTH IN THE delicious. KITCHEN...

As the delicious. food team cook and test recipes, theres constant tinkering and fervent discussion:
timesaving ideas; new tricks weve heard of; some technique weve dreamed up and want to try
Then there are the questions and input we get from colleagues as they come to see whats cooking.
On these pages, our aim (with help from our regular experts) is to reproduce that test kitchen
atmosphere, sharing the most useful ideas and tips weve discovered. Its cookery gold!
M A K E THE BOU NT Y L A ST
PEPPERS
With their traffic light colours, peppers are the

most vibrant of vegetables. Snap up bargain
bags now and stash some away for later
FREEZE Grilled peppers freeze well and are great
additions to winter salads or vegetable stews.
Before grilling, pull out the stalk and seeds and
cut in half, pressing flat onto a baking sheet. Grill
until blistered with black patches, scoop into a
plastic bag and leave to cool, then peel away the
skin. Pack into freezer bags, adding any juices
that have accumulated. Freeze for up to a year.
PRESERVE Homemade harissa is easy to make and
much cheaper than the spicy red paste you buy
in tiny jars. By using a base of sweet peppers
you can adjust the heat to your taste. To make
it, grill and peel 4 red peppers (as above). Soak
a dried red chilli in hot water until soft. Pure
the chilli, peppers, a garlic clove, 1 tbsp ground
cumin, 1 tsp sea salt and 4 tbsp olive oil. Add a
few drops rosewater, then spoon into clean jars.
Cover with a layer of olive oil. It will keep for up
to a month in the fridge or 6 months in the freezer.
For a video on how to sterilise jars, see:
deliciousmagazine.co.uk/videos/how-tosterilise-jars
NOT JUST
FOR CHEESE
A box grater has many uses beyond the
obvious. Heres how we use ours:
Grate hardboiled eggs, then scatter over soups,
pasta, stews and salads. Grated eggs add flecks
of colour, flavour, texture and protein to meals.
Halve large tomatoes, then grate the flat side to
pulp the flesh and leave the skin to be discarded.
The pulp is perfect for tomato sauces or soups. Just
dont try to grate tiny cherry tomatoes
If the edges of a sponge cake have burnt, wait
until it cools, then gently run the fine side of the
grater around the cake. The black bits will come off,
leaving a smooth, golden sponge.
1
2
3
KITCHEN FRENCH
What is a sabl?
How to keep
plastic fresh
To stop plastic food
containers going smelly
when not in use, throw
in a pinch of salt before
putting them away. The
salt will absorb aromas
and its antimicrobial
qualities help eliminate
odour-causing bacteria.
Rinse the containers
well before using.
COOKS
TIP
Its a kind of round French

shortbread biscuit. The name is
said to come either from the town
of Sabl-sur-Sarthes in the Loire
region, where a version of the
biscuit originated, or from the
French word for sand, sable, which
describes the texture of the sugar,
butter and flour when rubbed
together to make the dough.
Variations include replacing
some flour with ground almonds,
or adding cinnamon, lemon
zest, raisins or chocolate.
Sabls are usually sweet, but
you can make savoury versions
with parmesan or black pepper.
How to make sweet pastry

THE EXPERT VIEW
By Elspeth Biltoft of Rosebud
Preserves (rosebudpreserves.co.uk)
We love her award-winning products,
made the old fashioned way with no
additives, just quality local produce.
ELSPETHS TIPS
Choose fruit thats just underripe, fresh and dry.
This will give a clearer jam with a good texture.
Heat gently at first to dissolve the sugar and
prevent crystallisation, which will ruin the jam.
After the sugar has dissolved, turn up the heat
and keep it at a rolling boil dont stir.
Remove the pan from the heat each time you test
for the setting point (104.5C). This stops the jam
overheating, which would make it too stiff.
Skim any scum from the surface as the jam cooks,
then let the fruit settle for 10 minutes before potting.
This stops the fruit rising to the top in the jars.
For a jam recipe visit deliciousmagazine.co.uk
&
PE A R C R
Sift 200g plain flour onto

a clean work surface, then
use your hands to make a ring.
Put 100g softened
unsalted butter and 75g
caster sugar into the hollow,
then use your fingers to
peck the two together,
pressing the butter into the
sugar until the mixture is
smooth and light.
Add 2 large free-range
egg yolks, then use your
fingertips to work the eggs
into the butter and sugar
mixture until combined.
Use a palette knife to
scoop up the flour around
the edges and cover the butter
mixture in the centre. Holding
the knife at each end, cut and
chop through the mixture,
scooping it back into a neat
pile, then chopping until it
resembles coarse crumbs.
With your hands, bring
the pastry together,
then knead gently until it
just comes together to form
a ball. Flatten into a fat disc,
then wrap in cling film
and chill in the fridge for
30 minutes before using.
THE PERFECT CHEESE MATCH

Z OL A
G O R G ON
E
C
L
O
D
1
2
ISP S
Pears are in season now and theyre beautiful with

gorgonzola but for something funkier, make pear
crisps (for a recipe, search for boozy pear trifles at
deliciousmagazine.co.uk). Gorgonzola dolce is soft,
gooey, piquant and creamy sweet available in most
supermarkets. It must be the dolce version, though,
or itll be too strong and too firm to dip your crisps into.
WHY DOES THE MATCH WORK? Salty gorgonzola works
well with sweet things honey, figs, sweet wines
and the crisps add crunch for extra pleasure.
Theyre a pudding and a cheese course in one.
delicious. KITCHEN
HOME JAM MAKING
Learn how to make this crisp,

sweet shortcrust pastry,
known as pte sucre, and
youll turn out the most
luscious tarts. A good pastry
case, properly cooked, can
make such a difference.
Its easy to make using the
traditional method detailed
here by hand but if you
prefer you can beat the
butter, sugar and eggs in a
mixing bowl using an electric
hand mixer, then incorporate
the flour and turn out the
dough to knead on a lightly
floured work surface.
BE A BETTER COOK
TECHNIQU E
TECHNIQU E
True
or false?
How to make perfect rice
The colour is determined by the chickens diet.

Sunny orange yolks are the result of eating
carotenoids: red-yellow pigments found in plants
such as maize, alfalfa, marigolds and some grasses.
Chicken feed can contain naturally carotinoid-rich
ingredients to boost yolk colour, but some feed has
artificial colouring agents added (even for freerange birds). With true free-range chickens that
forage outside, the yolk colour varies widely from
season to season as the diet changes. A deep orange
yolk is appealing in cooked egg dishes, cakes and
homemade pasta, but its not an indicator of quality.
Keep white
wine cool
Freeze grapes and
add them to your
wine to keep it cool
without diluting it.
PRO
TIP
HOW TO
CHECK YOUR HOMEMADE

BREAD IS COOKED
Getting the baking time right can make the difference

between a good loaf and a bad, excessively doughy or
cakey one. Your homemade loaf is ready when
the bottom is tapped
and it sounds taut
and drum-like.
the crust is golden
brown or darker
(depending on the flour)
with a dry, firm texture.
the internal
temperature is90100C on a digital probe
thermometer (although
dark rye breads and
sweet breads are usually
readyat slightly lower
temperatures).
1
2
3
Were often asked if theres a

secret formula for fluffy rice.
Achieving separated-grain
perfection is do-able when
you follow our guide
Rinse the rice well in

4-5 changes of cold water
to wash off any starch. Its
ready to cook when the water
stays pretty clear when you
agitate the rice.
Put the rice in a saucepan
and fill with fresh cold
water to a fingernails height
above the level of the rice.
Add a sprinkle of salt.
Put over a medium heat to
bring the pan to a simmer,
cook for 1 minute, then cover
with a tight-fitting lid, remove
from the heat and leave to
steam for 20-25 minutes.
Once the rice is cooked,
there should be no water
left to drain off. Fluff the rice
through with a fork and its
ready to serve.
GOLDEN RULES
Rinse the rice until the

water stays clear
Once the water starts to
bubble, dont stir it
Keep the lid on until the
cooking time is up. Lifting
the lid lets out the steam
and stops the rice cooking.
NEW VIDEOS ONLINE NOW

See delicious. expertise in action!
Want to improve your kitchen skills?

Visit deliciousmagazine.co.uk and
nd a collection of easy-to-follow videos
Discover how to plait a bread loaf make quick flaky

pastry sterilise jam jars prepare cooked crab make
meringues and many more crucial techniques
PHOTOGRAPHS: ISTOCK, TOBY SCOTT, STUART WEST
THE CLAIM YOU CAN TELL THE

QUALITY OF AN EGG BY THE YOLK
THE VERDICT FALSE
BE A BETTER COOK
HOW TO MAKE
Perfect guacamole
SERVES 4-6 AS A NIBBLE. TAKES 10 MIN
This is great on its own as a dip, or

serve it alongside steak, grilled
chicken, prawns or beef chilli.
3 ripe avocados
Juice of 2-3 limes
1 tbsp soured cream
finely chopped red onion
1 finely chopped red chilli (remove
the seeds if you dont want your
guacamole too spicy)
Nachos, crisps or crudits (raw
pieces of carrot, cucumber,
chicory) to serve if using as a dip
delicious. KITCHEN
Stop burgers
sticking to the
barbie. Rub the cut edge of
a raw baking potato all over
the grill before adding the
burgers. The starch from
the potato will form an
invisible lm on the grate
that will help prevent the
meat from sticking.
COOKS
TIP
Chop the avocados, put in a bowl, add

the lime juice and soured cream, then
mash with a fork. Stir in the chopped
red onion and chilli. Season to taste,
then serve.
SOY SAUCE KNOW-HOW Theres more than just one type of soy. Heres the low-down and how to use them
JAPANESE SOY SAUCE
Also known as shoyu, its brewed from
soya beans, wheat, salt and water,
fermented with a bacterial culture
called koji for several months to give
deep umami flavours. Shoyu tends to be
dark, but is thinner and clearer than
most Chinese soy, with a more rounded
savouriness that comes from the use
of roasted wheat. Its also lower in salt.
HOW TO USE ITLike other soy sauces,
it can be used in stir-fries and
marinades, and its balanced flavour
makes it a good choice for Asian salad
dressings. It can also be used for
dipping and as a condiment. Kikkoman
is the best known brand, and the one the
delicious. team recommends.
TAMARI
A Japanese soy sauce brewed almost

exclusively from soya beans, often as a
by-product of miso paste manufacture.
It tends to be darker and thicker than
other Japanese soy sauce. Although it
traditionally contains no wheat, some
brands contain enough to make it

unsuitable for gluten-free diets, so
check the label if youre coeliac.
HOW TO USE IT The thicker consistency
makes it better for cooking and
marinades than dipping sauces.
CHINESE DARK SOY

Once made with just soya beans, it now
often includes wheat or white flour.
Although slow-fermented Chinese soy
sauces do exist (look for the terms
brewed or traditionally brewed on the
label), brewing times are often shorter
than is needed to give them depth of
colour or flavour, so caramel, sugar and
other flavour enhancers are sometimes
added. Chinese soy sauces are generally
more viscous than
Japanese sauces
and often have
preservatives
added. Some
are produced
artificially
without any
natural fermentation at all and rely

entirely on MSG (E621) and other
flavourings. These tend to be salty with
no complexity of flavour. Read the
ingredients list: the fewer the better.
HOW TO USE IT Its usually added during
cooking to impart colour as well as
seasoning to a dish. Its also used in
dark sauces and marinades and is
sometimes combined with light soy (see
below) to achieve a balance of colour
and flavour.
CHINESE LIGHT SOY

In traditionally brewed sauces, the paler
colour is the result of shorter
fermentation times, though these days it
usually just means less added caramel.
HOW TO USE IT Lighter doesnt
always mean weaker. Although
it has a thinner texture,
light soy is usually saltier
than dark soy and its
used primarily for
seasoning dishes. Its
also used for dipping.
liiciousmagazine.co.uk 111
THE CHALLENGE
BAGELS
A well made bagel is my favourite kind of bread,
but the wrong recipe can be like a dry bread roll with
a hole in the middle. What sets homemade bagels
apart from their readymade counterparts is their
irresistible chewy crust. Proper bagels are the
perfect vehicle for pillowy cream cheese topped with smoked
salmon, too, but whether you layer them up with llings or
simply slather them in salted butter, one things sure: theyre
a morning treat of the highest order.
ELLA TARN, COOKERY ASSISTANT
RECIPE, WORDS AND FOOD STYLING ELLA TARN

PHOTOGRAPHS ALEX LUCK STYLING LUIS PERAL
BE A BE T TER COOK
T HE CH A LLENGE
B
Bagels

OVEN TIME 16 MIN, PLUS RISING AND
12-24 HOURS PROVING
Cooked bagels can be

MAKE
AHEAD frozen in a freezer bag for
up to 3 months. You can split
them, put baking paper in between
the halves, then freeze. Simply toast
from frozen for a quick breakfast.
FOOD You can buy barley malt
TEAMS syrup (also known as barley
TIPS
malt extract) in health food
shops. If you cant find it, use the
same amount of honey instead.
Bagel dough is stiff. If using a stand
mixer, keep an eye on it as it may
struggle. If it starts to overheat while
kneading, carry on by hand instead.
To add seeds, sprinkle them over
the bagels immediately after boiling.
Sesame and poppy seeds work well.
1 tbsp barley malt syrup (see food
teams tips)
400ml lukewarm water
800g very strong white flour or
very strong white bread flour, plus
extra to dust (see Tips For Success)
7g fast-action dried yeast
2 tsp fine salt
Vegetable oil for greasing and
brushing
1 tbsp bicarbonate of soda
1 Begin a day before you want to

serve the bagels (see Tips For
Success). In a small bowl, mix the
barley malt syrup and water.
2 Sift the flour, yeast and salt into the
bowl of a stand mixer (or large mixing
bowl if you dont have a stand mixer).
Make a well in the centre and stir in
the liquid. Mix with a wooden spoon
until it forms a rough dough, then
add the dough hook to the mixer
and work on a medium speed for
10 minutes (see food teams tips) until
the dough is smooth and stretchy.
If making it by hand, tip the rough
dough onto a floured work surface
and knead for 25 minutes [A]. Put
the dough in a large, oiled bowl,
cover with a tea towel and leave to
rise in a warm place for 1 hour or
C
until doubled in size [B].
3 Line 2 baking sheets with lightly
oiled non-stick baking paper and
divide the dough into 12 pieces [C],
about 100g each. To shape the
bagels, take a piece of dough, then
bring the edges into the centre of the
dough underneath [D] so the top
forms a smooth dome. Put the dough,
dome-side up, on a floured work
surface and cup your hand loosely
over it [E]. Make small circles with
your hand, gently shaping the dough
into a round, flattish ball. Using
a finger (or the handle of a wooden
spoon), poke a hole into the centre
of the dough, then gently stretch it
out until the hole is about 4cm in
diameter [F]. Put the bagel onto
a prepared baking sheet, then
MORE
FIND
IDEAS ON THE
delicious.
WEBSITE
For ideas on how

to fill your freshly
baked bagels
visit delicious
magazine.co.uk/
bagels
ELLAS TIPS FOR SUCCESS

The longer the proving time in the fridge
(step 3), the better the flavour the bagels
will have. You can cook them after 12 hours,
but its worth waiting 24 hours if you can.
There are two methods for shaping
bagels. One is to push a hole in the dough,
as in this recipe. The other is to roll the
dough into a sausage, then join the ends
together by pressing. However, this knocks
too much air out of the dough and the
pressed areas have a less uniform shape.

Adding bicarbonate of soda to the water
before boiling the bagels (step 4) helps to
give them a shiny, bubbly, chewy crust.
A bagels chewiness is partly due to
boiling and partly due to the high protein/
gluten content of very strong flour (14-16%
protein). You can use regular strong bread
flour (12-13% protein), but it wont be quite
as chewy. Plain flour is about 10% protein.
NEXT
MONTH
The classic
Italian filled
pasta tortellini
repeat with the rest of the dough.

Lightly brush the bagels with oil, then
loosely cover with cling film. Leave
to prove in the fridge for 12-24 hours.
4 The next day, remove the trays from
the fridge half an hour before
cooking to let the bagels come to
room temperature. Heat the oven to
240C/220C fan/gas 9. Bring a very
large, deep saut pan or saucepan of
water to the boil, turn down the heat
so the water is just simmering, then

stir in the bicarbonate of soda. Use
a slotted spoon to gently lower the
bagels, in batches, into the water.
Cook for 1 minute on each side, then
lift from the water and put, rounderside up, back onto the baking sheets
(nows the time to sprinkle with
seeds if you want to see food
teams tips). Bake for 8 minutes,
then turn the oven to 210C/
190C fan/gas 6 and bake for

8 minutes until golden. Remove the
trays from the oven then, using a tea
towel, put the bagels on wire racks
to cool. Theyre best eaten within
a few hours (see Make Ahead).
PER BAGEL 253kcals, 1.1g fat (0.2g
For more ways to use barley malt
syrup/extract, see Loose Ends
Spring onion
SERVES 6. READY IN 5 MIN
Beetroot & mint

SERVES 6. READY IN 5 MIN
Put 180g full-fat cream

cheese, 80g cooked and
roughly chopped beetroot
(not in vinegar), the finely
grated zest of lemon, a
small crushed garlic clove
and a handful of fresh
mint leaves in a small
food processor. Pulse
until pink and coarse
textured. Season well.
fat (4.8g saturated), 1.9g
protein, 2.2g carbs (2g
Smoked salmon & dill


cheese, 70g good quality
smoked salmon, the finely
grated zest of 1 lemon,
small bunch of fresh dill
and a good pinch of pepper
in a small food processor.
Pulse until combined
but still flecked with
small pieces of salmon.
0.1g fibre
T HE CH A LLENGE

cheese, 4 sliced spring
onions, 1 small crushed
garlic clove, the juice of
small lemon and a good
pinch of salt and pepper
into a food processor and
pulse until well combined
but coarse textured.
BE A BE T TER COOK
3 QUICK-FIX CREAMY
BAGEL TOPPINGS
ARTISTIC NATURE
Sunset over
Derwentwater
Why its time to visit
THE LAKES
The Lake District has long been a magnet for seekers of natural beauty. Now its
a destination for food lovers too. The region had more than its share of weatherbased challenges last year but, as Susan Low discovers, the community has
rallied round to recover and theres never been a better time to go
hungry traveller.
he Lake District has a stark

beauty. The wildness of the
fells and lakes is thrilling
and humbling you can feel small
here. No wonder generations of
artists and poets have been inspired
by the landscape.
This is a place where talk about
weather isnt just a pleasantry.
Misread the clouds and you can put
life and limb at risk as a series of
devastating storms proved in the
run-up to Christmas last year, when
record rainfall washed away bridges
and roads and ooded towns and
villages throughout Cumbria.
Yet the Lakes draw nearly
16 million visitors each year. While
the weather cant be guaranteed to
be warm, you can be sure the
hospitality will be. The locals are
resilient, and justly proud of their
landscape and the food it supports.
COOKING THE COUNTRYSIDE

Chefs throughout the region (see
box p119) have put the Lake District
on the culinary map, making much
of the local produce, from hedgerow
to seaside. The hardy herdwick
sheep that dot the Lakeland fells are
more than just part of the landscape;
they provide some of the best meat
around. Anyone whos not tried the
deep avours of herdwick hogget
(lamb thats 1-2 years old) is in for
a treat and Mark Teasdale, chef
at Sharrow Bay, who comes from a
family of sheep farmers, is a big fan.
My parents had herdwicks and
swaledales, he says. Herdwicks are
not so commercially viable because
they take much longer to mature,
but they have incredible avour. Its
possibly the most commented-on
ingredient on our menu.
Theres so much to inspire and
enjoy in this windswept beauty of
a landscape Come for the views
and stay for the food.
SHARROW BAY
Ullswater, Cumbria (sharrowbay.co.uk)

BY SUSAN LOW
CLOCKWISE FROM TOP
View from Sharrow Bay across

Ullswater; timeless comfort
indoors; herdwick sheep are well
hard; painterly views and a warm
welcome; the famous sticky toffee
pudding; Sharrow Bays lake setting
WHY ITS GREAT Sharrow Bay is not the

new kid on the block. Its not the
place to come if youre looking for
cheffy whizz-bangery and hipster
trend-worshipping. And thats what
makes this place special. It opened
back in 1949 and is credited as the
UKs rst country house hotel. Its
then-owners, Francis Coulson and
Brian Slack, wanted the hotel to be
a home away from home for their
guests. If you want to unplug,
unwind and leave the modern world
behind for a few days, this is the
place to do it. It also helps that its
slap-bang on the shore of Ullswater,
possibly the most beautiful of the
Lakes, and the views are nothing
short of spectacular (see top).
Staying here feels like staying in
the home of a rather eccentric aunt
or uncle. Although there have been
a number of upgrades over the years,
the old-school feel of the place has

been retained, as has much of the
antique furniture and artwork. The
carpets are plush, the curtains heavy
and a sense of the past is always
present. In a good way. Sharing a
pot of tea before the open re in the
lounge, it could be 1949, 1969 or
2009. Who cares, when you feel this
coddled? And just out the back door
there are 12 acres of manicured
gardens by the lake and the fells
in all their majesty and grandeur.
THE FOOD BIT Chef Mark Teasdale, who
hails from nearby Penrith, has been
cooking here for almost 19 years.
A farmers son and devotee of
Cumbrias larder, Mark looks for
dishes made with local ingredients.
Herdwick hogget is a menu
stalwart and doesnt disappoint.
My herdwick chops and loin, served
with a potato cake and subtle jus,
hungry traveller.
*NORMAL CANCELLATION POLICIES APPLY. OFFER EXCLUDES PREMIER DELUXE ROOMS AND SATURDAY NIGHT STAYS.
PHOTOGRAPHS: ISTOCK, JOAN RANSLEY, SARAH KAY
SIX OF THE BEST

LAKELAND RESTAURANTS
were tender and cooked to pink

perfection. This is special-occasion
dining, so theres likely to be lobster
and foie gras on the menu too.
Marks sh cooking, which he says
was inuenced by many visits to
Australia, where they know about
that sort of thing, is spot-on.
Mark pays homage to Sharrow
Bays original owners on the dessert
menu, where Francis Coulsons
famous and original icky sticky toffee
pudding, served with ice cream,
dees diners to resist it. My advice:
indulge. Indulge in the lengthy wine
list too, which is particularly strong
on cooler-climate European bottles.
THE ROOMS Those in the main house
are spacious and feel wonderfully
old-style, with gold-framed pictures
and squishy beds, but the bathrooms
are bang up-to-date. There are 17
rooms in all, in the main house, the
garden rooms off the main house

and the separate Edwardian Lodge.
COST Doubles in October from
150 B&B (205 at weekends).
Dinner 65 per person for three
courses. Seven-course tasting
menu (plus amuse-bouches),
95 per person.
Quote delicious. when you
SPECIAL book, for stays in October
OFFER
2016, and get one night at the
special rate of 280 for dinner, B&B for
two in a double room.*
Elizabeth Carter, consultant editor of The

Good Food Guide, rounds up more of the
Lake Districts best restaurants, where chefs
get creative with fare from the local larder
THE COTTAGE IN THE WOOD, Braithwaite
thecottageinthewood.co.uk
Soak up the view of mighty Skiddaw from the
dining room of this boutique inn, a muchloved foodie destination near Derwentwater,
where Chris Archers simple, seasonal
menus offer Cartmel duck, Whitehaven
turbot and Kendal mint-cake ice cream.
LENCLUME, Cartmel
lenclume.co.uk
The cooking is of its landscape as well as of
its time. Ingredients are emphatically local,
with much grown on Simon Rogans small
farm, and other sources are noted, such as
Holker spring lamb or Cartmel Valley venison.
FOREST SIDE, Grasmere
theforestside.com
Ex-LEnclume chef Kevin Tickle is in charge
of this ambitious but unstuffy hotel restaurant,
a hive of endeavour thanks to the gathering,
growing, brewing and preserving that form
part of his loving, careful tribute to the
flavours of Cumbria.
LAKE ROAD KITCHEN, Ambleside
lakeroadkitchen.co.uk
James Crosss restaurant is deeply rooted in
Lakeland, offering a taste of the north (in both
Cumbrian and Nordic senses) via creative
techniques. Enjoy fermented blueberries,
pickled vegetables and 200-day aged beef.
MRS MILLERS, Culgaith
mrsmillersculgaith.co.uk
A garden-centre caf by day (serving dinner
at the weekend), the current North West
winner of The Good Food Guides local
restaurant award creates feelgood flavours
with slow-cooked crisp-crumbed local lambs
tongue or Lakeland porterhouse steak.
OLD STAMP HOUSE, Ambleside
oldstamphouse.com
Local produce features strongly on the menus
in Ryan Blackburns basement dining room,
where his celebration of the food traditions,
producers and produce of Cumbria are given
an unpretentious modern treatment.
Buy The Good Food Guide 2017 for the special
price of 12.99 (RRP 17.99) at Waitrose
branches and thegoodfoodguide.co.uk
HOLBECK GHYLL
Windermere, Cumbria (holbeckghyll.com)
BY KATHLEEN SILVERFIELD
WHY ITS GREAT Overlooking Lake
FROM TOP
Cumbria, the
place for
walking;
everything looks
shipshape on
Windermere; up
on the hill,
Holbeck Ghyll;
Darrens
Instagrammable
lamb dish
Windermere, the award-winning

hotel Holbeck Ghyll delivers
everything you could want from a
Lake District holiday: views, walks,
gourmet dining and plenty of R&R.
The main house oozes a traditional
country vibe, where plush fabrics pair
perfectly with dark wood panelling.
Its tempting to hunker down inside,
even on the sunniest of days.
Should you wish to do as
Wordsworth did and walk the walk
(and you should), theres no shortage
of trails passing Holbecks doorstep.
Clamber up rolling hills passing
friendly horses and sheep for views
that become more dramatic the
higher you go. Not dramatic enough
for you? If the owner is around and
the weather is ne he just might take
you for a spin in his helicopter.
Had enough of lonely wandering?
The hotel is handily located between
Bowness-on-Windermere and
Ambleside and its a short drive to
the Hawkshead Brewery taproom in
Stavely or a traditional pub such as
the Brown Horse Inn in Winster.
THE FOOD BIT Locally distilled damson
gin is the rst of many delights that
will greet you (in your room) on
your stay. Its also the rst sign of a
trend youll notice throughout your
stay: locally sourced ingredients.

Chef Darren Comish (who is also
locally sourced) turns out artfully
presented modern British fare; look
out for game when its in season or
lamb raised on the fells.
Dinner starts off in the lounge
for aperitifs and salty snacks before
diners head into the oak-panelled
dining room for lavish feasting.
Round out your dinner with a bottle
from the extensive wine cellar. And
dont miss the cheese trolley its
a highlight of the meal, with choices
from the UK, France and elsewhere.
The next morning, dig into a full
English breakfast complete with
freshly baked pastries, Cumbrian
air-dried ham and the classical
music playing in the background?
It only adds to the serene experience.
THE ROOMS No two rooms, suites or
private cottages are decorated alike.
Each is nished off with Egyptian
cotton robes and crisp sheets. If
youre feeling ush, book a stunning
lake-view suite.
COST Doubles from 320 per night,
including breakfast. Table dhote
dinner 68; seven course menu 88.
Book lunch or dinner online at
SPECIAL holbeckghyll.com/Delicious to
OFFER
receive a complimentary glass
of champagne per paying adult.**
hungry traveller.
ASKHAM HALL
Askham, Cumbria (askhamhall.co.uk)
BY LES DUNN
*NORMAL CANCELLATION POLICIES APPLY. OFFER EXCLUDES PREMIER DELUXE ROOMS AND SATURDAY NIGHT STAYS.
**OFFER APPLIES FOR STAYS UP TO 30 NOVEMBER 2016
WHY ITS GREAT In 2014, aristocrat

Charles Lowther converted his
Elizabethan mansion in the pretty
Lake District village of Askham
into a restaurant with rooms. Its an
informal setup like an extremely
upmarket B&B. There are walks all
around (the splendid gardens,
including a kitchen garden housing
rare-breed pigs and chickens, are
an essential starting point) and
serene Ullswater is a 10-minute
drive. Awaiting your return is
a small spa and, for the warmer
months, an outdoor pool.
THE FOOD BIT At the honesty bar,
pour yourself a generous G&T with
local Bedrock gin, then settle into
a comfy fat sofa. The restaurant is
in an airy extension overlooking the
rear garden, and a dining terrace
is planned. Special touches include
vintage glassware from the family
collection and rustic crockery made
by a village potter.
Local-boy chef Richard Swale has
worked in top notch restaurants in
Europe (including Copenhagens
Noma). His short menu two
starters, two mains, two puddings
uses the hotels pork, local lamb,
venison from surrounding woods,
butter from the family farm They
even bottle their own spring water.
The food is high-end but trendily
unfussy in presentation. The vecourse tasting menu offers smaller
versions of the starters and mains,
with your choice of dessert. Delights
included a starter of cod cheek and
ox tongue with wild garlic from the
River Lowthers banks; and lamb loin
and tongue (Swale doesnt shrink
from the more esoteric cuts) with
potatoes boulangre. The buttermilk
pannacotta with apple and sorrel
sorbet was creamy-zingy-perfect.
The young local staff are friendly
and enthusiastic, while hotel
manager Nico is also the sommelier
and will recommend an interesting
wine ight. The excellent breakfast
includes eggs royale (with smoked

salmon), and an exemplary full
English but do leave a little room
for the homemade pastries
THE ROOMS There are 13, with more
planned in a courtyard building.
Theyve not been radically refurbed,
just smartened up. Those in the
pele tower (a 14th-century defensive
lookout) are the largest and
grandest, but all are more than
comfortable. Antique replaces,
roll-top baths, oak beams
and leadlight windows abound.
COST Doubles from 150 B&B.
Three-course dinner costs 50;
tasting menu 65, not including
drinks but both with pre-dinner
nibbles, coffee and petits fours.
Mention delicious. when
SPECIAL you book a room and dinner
OFFER
to receive complimentary
tickets for Lowther Castle & Gardens**
(lowthercastle.org).
FROM TOP
Suntrap terrace
at Askham Hall;
rare-breed
tamworth pigs;
just the place
to spend a few
days living like
an aristocrat
hungry traveller.
Mark Teasdales herb

crusted rack of lamb
with vegetable hotpot
SERVES 4-6. HANDS-ON TIME 1 HOUR,
OVEN TIME 1 HOUR 15 MIN, PLUS RESTING
TRY
THIS AT
HOME...
Bigger joints will need

longer cooking its best to
check the temperature of the
meat with a probe thermometer.
French-trimmed racks have the fat
and sinew removed from the bones
to give a cleaner finish. Ask your
butcher or trim them yourself.
This is great with herdwick hogget
when its in season (January to June).
Find it at Booths supermarkets or
online at heritagemeats.co.uk.
FOOD
TEAMS
TIPS
2 x 350g British free-range lamb

racks, french-trimmed (see tips)
NEXT
MONTH
Sweet treats are
on the menu for
Diwali in the
Indian city of
Calcutta
3 tbsp olive oil, plus a drizzle extra

FOR THE HERB CRUST
100g brioche, roughly torn

2 fresh thyme sprigs, leaves picked
2 garlic cloves
Bunch fresh chervil or 3 tbsp dried
Mark Teasdales
kitchen at
Sharrow Bay
YOULL ALSO NEED
20cm cake tin or gratin dish,

greased with butter
gas 6. For the veg hotpot, layer the
vegetables into a greased 20cm
cake tin or gratin dish, starting with
a thin layer of potato, then turnip,
then carrot. Dot each layer with
knobs of butter and a few pieces
of black pudding, then season well
with salt and pepper. Repeat until all
the veg and black pudding have been
used up, finishing with a final layer
of potatoes. Brush the top with the
melted butter, then season again.
Bake in the oven for 1 hours until
crisp and golden on top.
2 About 45 minutes before the hot
pot has finished cooking, put all the
herb crust ingredients, apart from

the mustard, into a food processor
with some salt and pepper, then
whizz to the consistency of coarse
breadcrumbs. Season the lamb and
drizzle with a little olive oil. Heat a
large frying pan until very hot, then
sear the meat all over for a minute so
it has a slightly caramelised crust.
3 Spread the mustard over the lamb,
then press the herb crust on top.
Put on a baking sheet in the oven
alongside the potatoes and cook for
20 minutes for rare, 22 minutes for
medium (the internal temperature
should read 58C) and 25-30
minutes for well done. Rest the meat
for 5-10 minutes before serving.
WINE EDITORS CHOICE Go for a ripe
rhne red such as chteauneuf-dupape, or a peppery carmnere.
FOOD PHOTOGRAPH: CHARLIE RICHARDS. FOOD STYLING: ELLA TARN. STYLING: WEI TANG
FOR THE VEGETABLE HOTPOT
3 large maris piper potatoes (about

700g), sliced 5mm thick
1 turnip (about 250g), sliced
5mm thick
2 carrots (about 350g), sliced
5mm thick
About 120g unsalted butter, plus
30g melted and extra for greasing
120g black pudding, casing
removed and insides crumbled
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THIS MONTH WE ASKED What music do you like to cook to?
Editor Karen Barnes

Depends on my mood Gypsy Kings, Radio 4 or Mozarts Piano Concerto No.11
Deputy editor Susan Low Anything by Selector Cleofus
Editorial assistant Phoebe Stone True Faith New Order anything 80s!
Food editor Rebecca Woollard Joni Mitchell

Deputy food editor Lottie Covell Predictable, but the soundtrack from the film Chef
Cookery assistant Ella Tarn The radio
Art director Jocelyn Bowerman Anything by Stevie Wonder
Art editor Martine Tinney Music to Watch Girls By Andy Williams
Managing editor Les Dunn Santanas Oye Como Va
Deputy chief sub editor Hugh Thompson Northern soul to help drive things along
Senior sub editor Rebecca Almond Wake Up Boo! The Boo Radleys
Food consultant Debbie Major
Wine editor Susy Atkins Gadget tester Aggie MacKenzie
Contributors James Ramsden, Lucas Hollweg, Xanthe Clay
Promotions and marketing consultant Julia Rich 020 7803 4129 Radio 2
Digital editor Rebecca Brett 020 7803 4130 Leon Bridges or anything Motown
Assistant web producer Isabella Bradford Master Blaster (Jammin) Stevie Wonder
See how much you really know about the

world of food with Hugh Thompsons
culinary conundrum. Answers next month
ACROSS
1
6
7
9
10
12
14
17
18
19
Espresso coffee with hot water added until filter strength (9)
White coating on fruit, thought to be wild yeasts (5)
Hard dry biscuits, traditionally used to help babies teethe (5)
____ flottantes: dollops of poached meringue on custard (4)
Italian-style grilled sandwiches (6)
18th-century club named after the innkeepers mutton pies (3-3)
Restaurants strive to get this (or three) from the Michelin guide (4)
Metric weight, just under 2,205 pounds (5)
Lean offal used in faggots and haggis, but rare these days (5)
Describing an ancient Indian holistic philosophy/diet (9)
DOWN
2
3
4
5
6
8
11
13
15
16
Largest member of the deer family, sometimes hunted as game (5)

Italian city famed for pizza bianca and spaghetti alla carbonara (4)
Grass grown for edible components; also a breakfast option (6)
Asian fruit with the taste of a pear and crispness of an apple (5)
Cut of meat (often beef) from the breast, good for slow-cooking (7)
Root vegetable popular in Tudor sallets; now very rare (7)
Fresh curd cheese from the Indian subcontinent (6)
Flower once used in medieval puddings and omelettes (5)
Indian/Nepalese meal of several dishes served on a metal plate (5)
Clarified butter commonly used in Indian cookery (4)
Solution to no. 32 ACROSS: 1. Schnitzel 6. Sprat 7. Rooks 9. Ewer 10. Pinion

12. Baobab 14. Tsar 17. Tripe 18. Adana 19. Fenugreek DOWN: 2. Circe 3. Nata
4. Turnip 5. Enoki 6. Sherbet 8. Sangria 11. Gateau 13. Olive 15. Skate 16. Hair
With thanks to: Rosanna Achilli, Isabeau Brimeau, Abigail Dodd,

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for your files.
SEP TEMBER 2016
RECIPE INDEX
54
STARTERS, SIDES, NIBBLES
Aubergine fries with balsamic

drizzle 33
Bagna cauda 36
Caramelised turnip pure 48
Cheddar, jalapeo chilli &
sweetcorn muffins 72
Crab on toasted spelt bread with
soft boiled eggs & salsa verde 47
Ful medames 55
Guacamole 113
Sizzling garlic prawns with
nduja 100
Soy-glazed baby
beetroot 48
Spelt arancini with mozzarella,
porcini & thyme 99
Warm salad of farro, roasted
vegetables & chestnuts 100
MAIN COURSES
BEEF & LAMB

American patty melts 72
Baked merguez sausages with
beans, eggs & feta 62
Beef fillet with sherry vinegar
& shallot jus 47
Herb-crusted rack of lamb with
vegetable hotpot 122
Lamb chops with fennel
& parsley-anchovy relish 66
Nihari lamb 30
30
Yogurt-marinated lamb
with charred tomato relish
in flatbread 102
PORK
Creamy broccoli & bacon
spaghetti 93
Honey-mustard sausages with
sweet potato wedges 94
Honeyed sausages with blackberry
& caraway slaw 63
Parma ham, chicken liver &
mushroom vincisgrassi 72
Pea & bacon frittata 96
Pork chops with mustard
& capers 62
Spaghetti with red chicory, bacon
& garlic crumbs 101
Two-potato, pancetta & parmesan
hash 28
POULTRY
Chicken basteeya 36
Chicken fried rice 28
Orange-oregano roast chicken,
olive gremolata 64
Roast chicken in tomato, basil,
olive & feta sauce 58
Roast chicken, vegetable & noodle
soup 95
Roast chicken with pearl
barley 94
Zigni berbere 53
78
FISH & SHELLFISH
Soupe de poissons 34
VEGETABLE-BASED & VEGETARIAN
Baked sweet potatoes with spicy
chickpeas 92
Butterbean & vegetable stew 90
Chana masala 52
Cheddar & chard tart with cheese
& oatmeal pastry 70
Crispy halloumi with spicy pepper
& tomato salsa 29
Orecchiette with burrata, tomatoes
& garlic 38
Pearl barley salad 91
Polenta pizza with cherry tomatoes
& dolcelatte 93
Roasted cauliflower & broccoli
polenta 92
Turkish pasta with feta, yogurt
& dill 62
Watermelon, feta, herb &
peanut salad with hot & sour
dressing 42
SWEET THINGS
Arabian Nights double

upside-down cake 81
Basbousa (sweet semolina
cake) 54
Blackberry, mint & elderflower
fool 3
42
Chocolate truffle pots with salted
caramel sauce 49
Melon & gin granita with fennel
biscuits 43
Mint, chocolate & blackcurrant
biscuits 81
Nectarine & almond clafoutis 83
Poached pear cake with
chai-spiced buttercream
& salted caramel 78
Three chocolate & cardamom
tart 77
OTHERS
Bagels 113
Beetroot & mint spread 115
Smoked salmon & dill spread 115
Spring onion spread 115
Sweet pastry 109
MORE AT THE
GET
delicious. WEBSITE
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and techniques, and join the
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promotion, if deemed necessary in its opinion.
a good rant.
At their best theyre about celebrating local

produce. At their worst, food festivals are a cynical
corporate exercise populated by uninterested,
hungover chefs and freebie-grabbing punters.
Its time to boycott them and rediscover farmers markets,
says champion of small producers Polly Robinson
here are so many food festivals, you

could spend every weekend of the
year at a different one. Newspapers
and magazines (including this one) often
recommend the best and theres at least
one website that lists them all currently
338. Thats almost one for every day of the
year. There are festivals for sausages, oysters
and, in Suffolk where I live, even for peas.
We ock to these foodie jamborees in
our thousands. Theyre a chance to enjoy
a civilised festival experience for those who
dont like camping and smelly loos. On the
face of it, thats a good thing: we should
know more about what food is produced in
our countryside and who produces it.
But all too often these events are packed,
not with food that inspires us to buy some,
then go home and cook with it, but with
stall after stall of identical jams and overthe-top cupcakes. Most of the festival-goers
eating their bodyweight in samples (with
no intention of parting with any cash) are
not there to buy any meat and veg they
want to be entertained. After all, they can
shop at a supermarket on the way home.
Meanwhile the same group of hungover

chefs, touted out by their publishers to og
their latest book, is marched bleary-eyed
onto the stage only to burn the onions
because, after a night of boozing, its as
We need to stop seeing

food as entertainment
much as they can do to string a sentence
together, let alone cook at the same time.
Even without hangovers, the demos can
be chaotic, with stoves that dont work and
missing ingredients. What does it matter
that the resulting dish was a disaster
or theres no real cookery involved if the
crowd thought the demo was hilarious?
They cant cook the recipe anyway, not
unless they buy a copy of the book.
Dont get me wrong: Im a great fan of
food festivals, particularly the old guard
and the innovators. Ludlow, the rst in the
UK, founded in 1995, and Abergavenny,
which started four years later (theres
time to catch
y
,
Do you think Polly has a valid

point, or do you take a different
view? Email us at info@delicious
magazine.co.uk and well print
the best replies.
RATION: ISTOCK
Enough food
festivals already!
September), both still have their hearts

deeply rooted in celebrating local, seasonal
food and drink. They are harvest festivals
for the 21st century. There are innovators
such as Bristol Food Connections, which
engage the whole city and manage to
entertain and educate. These festivals are
run on a shoestring, dependent on
funding and hard-working volunteers to
make them happen. But there are too
many that have jumped on the bandwagon
with high ticket prices, corporate sponsors
and an army of street food vendors serving
bad burgers, warm beer and overcooked
paella, often with no local connections and
ingredients bought from the cash and carry.
Meanwhile, farmers and producers get
up at the crack of dawn come rain or shine
and drive for hours every weekend to
farmers markets, which often struggle to
keep going because were not using them.
They supply food to eat every day, not just
on food festival day. You dont have to buy
a ticket, you can park close by (usually) and
you can buy fantastic meat, veg and bread
quality everyday food, not just for treats.
We need to stop seeing food as
entertainment and stop going to food
festivals for no other reason than to scoff
samples and see our favourite celebrity chef
in the esh. Going to a festival shouldnt
be the one day of the year when we shop
from local producers we should support
those producers all year round, because
theyre there for us all year round
Polly is a marketer specialising in small food
and drink businesses; pollyrobinson.co.uk
ALL FLAVOURS WELCOME
NEW SMOKED CHIPOTLE

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