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Earth Science, 13e (Tarbuck)

Chapter 15 The Dynamic Ocean


1) The height, length, and period of a wave depend upon ________.
A) the length of time the wind has blown
B) the wind speed
C) the fetch
D) all of these
Answer: D
Diff: 1
Topic: 15.4 Waves
Bloom's: Remembering
2) Which of the following is correct regarding a wave in the open ocean?
A) Water particles move in an almost circular path.
B) Such waves are called waves of oscillation.
C) Waves do not exist in the open ocean only near the coast.
D) None of these.
Answer: A
Diff: 1
Topic: 15.4 Waves
Bloom's: Remembering
3) Waves begin to "feel bottom" when the depth of water is ________.
A) equal to its wave base
B) equal to the wavelength
C) twice as great as the wavelength
D) three times as great as the wavelength
Answer: A
Diff: 1
Topic: 15.4 Waves
Bloom's: Remembering
4) When waves reach shallow water, they are often bent and tend to become parallel to the shore.
This process is termed ________.
A) oscillation
B) refraction
C) translation
D) reflection
Answer: B
Diff: 1
Topic: 15.6 Sand Movement on the Beach
Bloom's: Remembering

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5) The movement of water within the surf zone that parallels the shore is termed ________.
A) tidal current
B) salinity current
C) beach drift
D) longshore current
Answer: D
Diff: 1
Topic: 15.6 Sand Movement on the Beach
Bloom's: Remembering
6) The presence of which one of the following would indicate that the land had been uplifted or
that sea level had fallen?
A) an estuary
B) a sea stack
C) elevated marine terrace
D) a tombolo
Answer: C
Diff: 1
Topic: 15.7 Shoreline Features
Bloom's: Remembering
7) Which one of the following is a landform created by wave erosion?
A) spit
B) estuary
C) tombolo
D) sea arch
Answer: D
Diff: 1
Topic: 15.7 Shoreline Features
Bloom's: Remembering
8) Chesapeake Bay and Delaware Bay are ________.
A) associated with a submergent coast
B) former river valleys that were flooded by a rise in sea level
C) excellent examples of large estuaries
D) all of the above
Answer: D
Diff: 1
Topic: 15.10 Coastal Classification
Bloom's: Remembering

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9) The movement of sand parallel to the shore ________.


A) is created by waves approaching at an oblique angle
B) may create spits
C) is achieved by longshore currents
D) all of the above
Answer: D
Diff: 1
Topic: 15.6 Sand Movement on the Beach and 15.7 Shoreline Features
Bloom's: Remembering
10) One result of wave refraction is that wave energy is concentrated ________.
A) on headlands projecting into the water
B) in the recessed areas between headlands
C) in estuaries
D) none of the above
Answer: A
Diff: 1
Topic: 15.6 Sand Movement on the Beach
Bloom's: Remembering
11) The zigzag movement of sand grains along a beach is ________.
A) caused by obliquely breaking waves
B) called beach drift
C) very unusual and seldom occurs
D) both caused by obliquely breaking waves and called beach drift
Answer: D
Diff: 1
Topic: 15.6 Sand Movement on the Beach
Bloom's: Remembering
12) A sandbar that completely crosses a bay, sealing it off from the open ocean is a ________.
A) sea stack
B) tombolo
C) coastal barrier
D) none of these
Answer: D
Diff: 1
Topic: 15.7 Shoreline Features
Bloom's: Remembering

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13) A ridge of sand projecting into a bay and often having a hooked end is a ________.
A) spit
B) jetty
C) groin
D) sea stack
Answer: A
Diff: 1
Topic: 15.7 Shoreline Features
Bloom's: Remembering
14) An isolated remnant of wave erosion is a ________.
A) spit
B) jetty
C) groin
D) sea stack
Answer: D
Diff: 1
Topic: 15.7 Shoreline Features
Bloom's: Remembering
15) A sand ridge connecting an island to the mainland or to another island is a ________.
A) jetty
B) tombolo
C) breakwater
D) sea stack
Answer: B
Diff: 1
Topic: 15.7 Shoreline Features
Bloom's: Remembering
16) A flat, bench-like surface cut in rock along a coast is a ________.
A) sea stack
B) tombolo
C) wave-cut platform
D) spit
Answer: C
Diff: 1
Topic: 15.7 Shoreline Features
Bloom's: Remembering

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17) Fetch is ________.


A) a method of shoreline erosion control
B) the distance between the trough of a wave and the still water level
C) the circular pattern made by water particles when a wave passes
D) none of these
Answer: D
Diff: 1
Topic: 15.4 Waves
Bloom's: Remembering
18) Which one of the following structures is built to protect boats from large breaking waves?
A) jetty
B) groin
C) breakwater
D) seawall
Answer: C
Diff: 1
Topic: 15.8 Stabilizing the Shore
Bloom's: Remembering
19) Which of the following is designed to prevent or retard shoreline erosion?
A) groin
B) beach nourishment
C) seawall
D) all of these
Answer: D
Diff: 1
Topic: 15.8 Stabilizing the Shore
Bloom's: Remembering
20) Which of the following is a tidal current?
A) spring tide
B) flood tide
C) ebb tide
D) both flood and ebb tide
Answer: D
Diff: 1
Topic: 15.11 Tides
Bloom's: Remembering

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21) The energy that drives surface ocean currents such as the Gulf Stream comes from
________.
A) salinity variations
B) Coriolis effect
C) prevailing winds
D) density differences
Answer: C
Diff: 1
Topic: 15.1 Surface Circulation of the Ocean
Bloom's: Remembering
22) A poleward-moving ocean current is ________.
A) warm
B) cold
C) warm only in the Northern Hemisphere
D) warm only in the Southern Hemisphere
Answer: A
Diff: 1
Topic: 15.2 Deep-Ocean Circulation
Bloom's: Remembering
23) Because of the Coriolis effect, surface ocean currents are deflected to the ________ of their
path of motion in the Northern Hemisphere.
A) right
B) left
C) west
D) east
Answer: A
Diff: 1
Topic: 15.1 Surface Circulation of the Ocean
Bloom's: Remembering
24) Because of the Coriolis effect, surface ocean currents are deflected to the ________ of their
path of motion in the Southern Hemisphere.
A) right
B) left
C) west
D) east
Answer: B
Diff: 1
Topic: 15.1 Surface Circulation of the Ocean
Bloom's: Remembering

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25) The daily tidal range is GREATEST during ________ tide.


A) spring
B) ebb
C) neap
D) none of these
Answer: A
Diff: 1
Topic: 15.11 Tides
Bloom's: Remembering
26) The daily tidal range is LEAST during ________ tide.
A) spring
B) ebb
C) neap
D) none of these
Answer: C
Diff: 1
Topic: 15.11 Tides
Bloom's: Remembering
27) Fetch refers to ________.
A) the beachfront area where rapid erosion is taking place
B) a large expanse of open water over which the wind blows and generates waves
C) the rotational movements of water particles beneath a passing surface wave
D) ocean currents moving parallel to the beach
Answer: B
Diff: 1
Topic: 15.4 Waves
Bloom's: Remembering
28) Erosional retreat of a ________ leads to enlargement and extension of a wave-cut platform in
the inland direction.
A) wave-cut tombolo
B) wave-cut cliff
C) wave-cut barrier beach
D) offshore, wave-cut, breakwater bar
Answer: B
Diff: 1
Topic: 15.7 Shoreline Features
Bloom's: Remembering

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29) Large estuaries are more common on a(n) ________ coastline.


A) submergent
B) emergent
C) stable
D) retreating
Answer: A
Diff: 1
Topic: 15.10 Coastal Classification
Bloom's: Remembering
Give the tide type for each description
neap tides

spring tides

30) Sun, Moon, and Earth form a right triangle in space


Answer: neap tides
Diff: 1
Topic: 15.11 Tides
Bloom's: Understanding
31) lowest high tides and highest low tides of the month
Answer: neap tides
Diff: 1
Topic: 15.11 Tides
Bloom's: Understanding
32) highest high tides and lowest low tides of the month
Answer: spring tides
Diff: 1
Topic: 15.11 Tides
Bloom's: Understanding
33) Sun, Moon, and Earth lie on a straight line in space
Answer: spring tides
Diff: 1
Topic: 15.11 Tides
Bloom's: Understanding

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Word Analysis. Examine the words and/or phrases for each question below and determine the
relationship among the majority of words/phrases. Choose the option which does not fit the
pattern.
34) wave height
wave period
Answer: wave refraction
Diff: 2
Topic: 15.4 Waves
Bloom's: Analyzing

wave refraction

35) wave-cut cliff


wave-cut platform
Answer: spit
Diff: 1
Topic: 15.7 Shoreline Features
Bloom's: Analyzing
36) sea stack
bar
tombolo
Answer: sea stack
Diff: 1
Topic: 15.7 Shoreline Features
Bloom's: Analyzing

sea arch

spit

barrier island

37) breakwater
groin
seawall
Answer: beach nourishment
Diff: 1
Topic: 15.8 Stabilizing the Shore
Bloom's: Analyzing
38) spring tide
flood tide
Answer: tidal flat
Diff: 1
Topic: 15.11 Tides
Bloom's: Analyzing

fetch

beach nourishment

neap tide

tidal flat

39) The horizontal distance separating successive wave crests is called the wave period.
Answer: FALSE
Diff: 1
Topic: 15.4 Waves
Bloom's: Analyzing
40) Tidal flats are submerged during ebb tide.
Answer: FALSE
Diff: 1
Topic: 15.11 Tides
Bloom's: Analyzing

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41) The turbulent water created by breaking waves is called surf.


Answer: TRUE
Diff: 1
Topic: 15.4 Waves
Bloom's: Analyzing
42) A baymouth bar is a manmade feature designed to control wave erosion.
Answer: FALSE
Diff: 1
Topic: 15.7 Shoreline Features
Bloom's: Analyzing
43) Although the Sun influences the tides, its effect is considerably less than the effect of the
Moon.
Answer: TRUE
Diff: 1
Topic: 15.11 Tides
Bloom's: Analyzing
44) The energy that creates surface ocean currents comes from prevailing winds.
Answer: TRUE
Diff: 1
Topic: 15.1 Surface Circulation of the Ocean
Bloom's: Analyzing
45) Waves in the open ocean are called waves of oscillation.
Answer: FALSE
Diff: 1
Topic: 15.4 Waves
Bloom's: Analyzing
46) Elevated wave-cut platforms in Southern California are evidence that this coastal area is
emergent.
Answer: TRUE
Diff: 1
Topic: 15.10 Coastal Classification
Bloom's: Analyzing
47) The Gulf Coast lacks barrier islands.
Answer: FALSE
Diff: 1
Topic: 15.9 Erosion Problems Along U.S. Coasts
Bloom's: Analyzing

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48) Groins are constructed for the purpose of maintaining or widening beaches that are losing
sand.
Answer: TRUE
Diff: 1
Topic: 15.8 Stabilizing the Shore
Bloom's: Analyzing
49) The largest daily tidal range occurs in association with spring tides.
Answer: TRUE
Diff: 1
Topic: 15.11 Tides
Bloom's: Analyzing
50) Neap tides occur about the time of the first quarter and third quarter phases of the Moon.
Answer: TRUE
Diff: 1
Topic: 15.11 Tides
Bloom's: Analyzing
51) As the tide rises, water flows in toward the shore as the ebb tide.
Answer: FALSE
Diff: 1
Topic: 15.11 Tides
Bloom's: Analyzing
52) A poleward-moving ocean current is considered a warm current.
Answer: TRUE
Diff: 1
Topic: 15.2 Deep-Ocean Circulation
Bloom's: Analyzing
53) The Coriolis effect causes ocean currents in the Southern Hemisphere to be deflected to the
right of their path of motion.
Answer: FALSE
Diff: 1
Topic: 15.1 Surface Circulation of the Ocean
Bloom's: Analyzing
54) Surface ocean circulation is also called thermohaline circulation.
Answer: FALSE
Diff: 1
Topic: 15.1 Surface Circulation of the Ocean and 15.2 Deep-Ocean Circulation
Bloom's: Analyzing

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55) Longshore sand transport and longshore currents depend on waves impinging parallel to a
shoreline.
Answer: FALSE
Diff: 1
Topic: 15.6 Sand Movement on the Beach
Bloom's: Analyzing
56) Large circular-moving currents of water within an ocean basin are called ________.
Answer: gyres
Diff: 1
Topic: 15.1 Surface Circulation of the Ocean
Bloom's: Remembering
57) As a deep-water wave enters shallow water, the wave slows down and rotates toward being
parallel with the shoreline. This process is known as ________.
Answer: refraction
Diff: 1
Topic: 15.6 Sand Movement on the Beach
Bloom's: Remembering
58) Currents within the surf zone that flow parallel to the shore are known as ________ currents.
Answer: longshore
Diff: 1
Topic: 15.6 Sand Movement on the Beach
Bloom's: Remembering
59) A ridge of sand that connects an island to the mainland or to another island is a(n) ________.
Answer: tombolo
Diff: 1
Topic: 15.7 Shoreline Features
Bloom's: Remembering
60) Low and narrow offshore, emergent ridges of sand that parallel the coast are called
________.
Answer: barrier islands
Diff: 1
Topic: 15.7 Shoreline Features
Bloom's: Remembering
61) Structures called ________ are built parallel to the shoreline to protect boats from the force
of large breaking waves.
Answer: breakwaters
Diff: 1
Topic: 15.8 Stabilizing the Shore
Bloom's: Remembering

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62) A barrier built at a right angle to the beach for the purpose of trapping sand that is moving
parallel to the shore is called a(n) ________.
Answer: groin
Diff: 1
Topic: 15.8 Stabilizing the Shore
Bloom's: Remembering
63) When caves on opposite sides of a headland unite, a(n) ________ results.
Answer: sea arch
Diff: 1
Topic: 15.7 Shoreline Features
Bloom's: Remembering
64) What term denotes a sand bar built across the former mouth of an estuary, separating it from
the open sea?
Answer: baymouth bar
Diff: 1
Topic: 15.7 Shoreline Features
Bloom's: Remembering
65) The rising of cold water from deeper layers to replace warmer surface water is called
________.
Answer: upwelling
Diff: 1
Topic: 15.1 Surface Circulation of the Ocean
Bloom's: Remembering
66) Because deep ocean circulation is driven largely by variations in water temperature and
salinity, it is also called ________ circulation.
Answer: thermohaline
Diff: 1
Topic: 15.2 Deep-Ocean Circulation
Bloom's: Remembering
67) The low-lying zones that are alternately covered by water during flood tide and exposed
following ebb tide are called ________.
Answer: tidal flats
Diff: 1
Topic: 15.11 Tides
Bloom's: Remembering
68) The ________ effect causes ocean currents to be deflected to the right of their path of motion
in the Northern Hemisphere.
Answer: Coriolis
Diff: 1
Topic: 15.1 Surface Circulation of the Ocean
Bloom's: Remembering
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Critical Thinking and Discussion. Use complete sentences, correct spelling, and the
information presented in Chapter 15 to answer the questions below.
69) Shorelines are temporary geologic and topographic features. Explain this statement.
Answer: Shorelines are temporary geologic and topographic features because wave energy is
constantly acting upon them to move and transport sand, which affects their topographic and
geologic features. For example, if you stand ankle deep in water on the shoreline, you will
notice that your feet become buried to sand movement caused by wave action.
Diff: 2
Topic: 15.6 Sand Movement on the Beach
Bloom's: Understanding
70) Briefly discuss the movement of sand on a beach environment. Include those factors, both
natural and human-induced, that affect sand movement.
Answer: Energy from breaking waves often causes large quantities of sand to move along the
beach face and in the surf zone roughly parallel to the shore. Wave energy also causes sand to
move perpendicular to the shore in a zig zag pattern that follows the longshore current. Sand
movement is determined by natural wave energy and can be affected by human-induced
stabilization factors such as construction of breakwaters, seawalls, and groins.
Diff: 3
Topic: 15.6 Sand Movement on the Beach and 15.8 Stabilizing the Shore
Bloom's: Understanding
71) A variety of techniques and efforts are used to stabilize shorelines throughout the world. Are
all of these efforts only temporary measures or are any of them permanent? Also, does
urbanization and development of coastal areas always contribute to shoreline erosion? Explain.
Answer: Most techniques used to stabilize shorelines such as constructing breakwaters, building
groins, or beach nourishment efforts are temporary. One permanent technique is relocation,
which is allowing nature to reclaim beaches that have been storm-damaged or have at-risk
buildings on them rather than building hard stabilization techniques. Even though it often causes
shoreline erosion, urbanization and development of coastal areas has actually contributed to the
efforts made to protect property from storm waves by stabilizing the shore. As the number and
value of buildings along the shores have increased, so have these efforts to stabilize the shore.
Diff: 3
Topic: 15.8 Stabilizing the Shore
Bloom's: Understanding

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72) Label the basic parts of a wave on the diagram below.

Answer: See Figure 15.12 in of Earth Science, 13e.


Diff: 1
Topic: 15.4 Waves
Bloom's: Applying
73) What type of current is illustrated in the diagram below?

Answer: longshore current


Diff: 1
Topic: 15.6 Sand Movement on the Beach
Bloom's: Applying

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