Journal of Fiber Bioengineering & Informatics 4:4 (2011) 389402

http://www.jfbi.org | doi:10.3993/jfbi12201109

Study on the Definition of Moulded Bra Cup Features

and Parametric Modeling
Boan Ying , Yue Wang, Fengyin Liu, Xin Zhang
Apparel & Art Design College, Xian Polytechnic University, Xian, Shaanxi 710048, China

Abstract
In order to make bra cups meet the needs of female customers, as well as to enhance the efficiency of
designing bra products, this paper made a study on the definition of digital moulded bra cup moulding
features and parametric modeling by means of parametric features design. The study introduced the
concepts of moulded bra cups shape features and then defined the same. The instructional effects
of female breast shape features and size features being involved in designing of moulded bra cups were
analyzed. The relationship between the shape features and size features of breasts and the shape features
of moulded bra cups were also discussed. Meanwhile, the study made a parametric presentation on the
feature points and feature curves of moulded bra cups. It realized that parametric modeling should aim
at feature points and curves. The processes of modeling of digital moulded bra cup were mentioned, and
were made more visualized adhering to humans designing principles, which enhancing the efficiency of
developed moulded bra cup products.
Keywords: Moulded Bra Cup; Shape Features; Parametric; Female Breast Shape

Introduction

The Chinese bra field now is turning from the multi-integration step to the quantity to quality
transition step, heading to original designs and own branded [1]. As the digital tide sweeps, the
moulded bra cup, which plays a dominant role in the bra market, is a top project in the bra
design [2]. The design and manufacture level of moulded bra cup products has been a token of
core competition of enterprises, which is also kept as a secret technique [3, 4, 5].
With the increase of age, most females will undergo the change of body, especially their breasts
[6]. In that case, the moulded bra cup comes to birth just to make up the shortage of breast
shape, which through the changes from inside and outside models the surfaces to beautify the
breast shape, remedying and reshaping the body shape. The inside surface modeling of bra cup is
quite important, even only if the difference is in sacral millimeters, with the variations in dressing
effects.

Corresponding author.
Email address: Yingba2006@163.com (Boan Ying).

19408676 / Copyright 2011 Binary Information Press & Textile Bioengineering and Informatics Society
December 2011

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It is learned from the research in bra enterprises that most of them employ the repeating
modification [6, 7] to design the moulded bra cup modeling. However, there are many obvious
problems in the production and application.
There is no relevant correlation between the object customers and moulded bra cup modeling.
The parameters of bra cup have not been closely fixed according to the data of human body [8].
The designing method of moulded bra cups has not been unified and standardized. The bra cup
modeling which needs the bra designer to offer the designing requirements and depends on the
computer operator to edit the moulded bra cup, results in vague designing intent in terms of
the understanding and delivering process of the bra cup modeling. Fourthly, the most popular
software is universal, such as Unigraphics NX, Pro/Engineer, and no specific software that is
aimed at moulded bra cup modeling design has been found. Moreover, there is no research and
development of relevant computer assisted systems for moulded bra cup modeling design [9, 10].

The Definition of Bra Cup Shape Features

Features are known as the signs or characteristics of objective things [11]. J. J. Shan defined the
features as: the carrier of complete description of information during the modeling design process
of the designing cycle of products. It is a kind of information, including geometry information
and non-geometry information. It can help to design, to manufacture or to communicate and to
exchange something between other projects [12]. In the field of CAD, the features can be classified
variously, such as shape features, material features, process features, etc. Shape features refer to
the vital and basic features that are formed by the topological relations of geometry elements [13,
14].
Though the forms of moulded bra cup are various, essentially, there is structural commonness
in the modeling variety.
The shape features of bra cup include basic shape features and additional shape features. The
basic shape features of bra cup include: the moulded bra cup plastic features, the outside surface
features and the inner surface features. The additional shape features of bra cup include: the
hole features (such as the bust point hole features), the region features of bra cup (such as the
convex pad features of bra cup) and the steel flange features, etc. For example, Fig. 1. presented
the classification and hierarchy of moulded bra cup shape features.

2.1

The Definition of Moulded Bra Cup Feature Points

The feature points of moulded bra cup include that Two Gore points; Two Loop points; Two
Underarm cup side point; Two BP points as shown in Fig. 2. The feature points of moulded bra
cup are the key to the moulded bra cup modeling design.
As shown in Fig. 3, taken the BP feature points as an example, put the value of BP points
along with the Y axis moved y distance, which may reflect the effect of lifting breast.
So, different feature points have different offsets, and also different offsets deliver the different
designing intents.

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Bra cup shape features
Basic shape
features

Additional shape
features

Feature curves

Features surface

Outside
surface
features

Inner
surface
features

Shapes

Cup
plastic
features

The convex
pad features

Wire feature
curve
Armhole
feature curve

Front edge
feature curve
Front cup
feature curve

The feature
curve of upper
and under cup
Features

Point
elements
Elements

Fig. 1: The classification and hierarchy of moulded bra cup shape features.

Fig. 2: The feature points of moulded bra cup.

2.2

BP

Fig. 3: BP feature point of moulded bra cup.

The Definition of Moulded Bra Cup Feature Curves

The bra cup designer is most concerned with the feature curves during the modeling design of bra
cup. Though the curves are various, the controlling one is less. The bra cup feature curves are
a reflection of important carrier of designing intent, which are also the main object of adjusting
and the core of constructing moulded bra cup modeling.
The feature curves of bra cup mainly have the following three characteristics. The first one,
the curve goes through the feature points. The second one, the curve just influences the model

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of moulded bra cup. The third one, the curve has the stability popularity and existence traits.
The characteristic curves can be divided in to inside and outside curves according to the objects.
In case of function, it sorts into functional feature curves and artistic feature curves. In terms of
constructing requirements, there are planes and three-dimensional feature curves.
The plane feature curves exist in a certain reference plane. The three-dimensional curves exist
in the space and the controlling points of them are in different designing reference planes. If the
model is constructed by several planes and three-dimensional feature curves, the bra cup would
well meet the requirements of breast shape features.
2.2.1

Front Cup Feature Curve

As shown in Fig. 4, the front cup feature curve should be constructed in the horizontal measurement reference plane, which is a curve that is defined by the gore feature point, the BP feature
point and the underarm cup side feature point.
As shown in Fig. 5, the breast horizontal measurement reference plane and the front bowel
feature curve is defined by A point (the Underarm Cup Side feature point), BP point and C point
(the Gore feature point), which decided the latitude length of bra cup and controls the latitude
trends of bra cup. The bra designer can create several divide points through the curve A-BP and
B-PC, modifying the whole curve through these points to make it more suitable for the female
breast shape.

60

S
f

A
C
BP

Fig. 4: Front cup feature curve.

Fig. 5: The front cup feature curve in breast

horizontal measurement reference plane.

The front bowel feature curves of bra cup inside the surface controls the gathering effect of
breast from the bra cup inside surface, through which the designer can adjust the shape of front
bowel according to the female breast shape in natural situation. It can be found from a large
number of statistics that in the ideal female breast shape, the top points of left and right breast
has a 60 angle behind the central line (as shown in Fig. 5).
In case of out step breast, the designer can adjust the breast top point along the X axis, with
the value of x, obtaining the position of BP points to work out the front bowel feature curve
with the gathering or separation function.
By adjusting the controlling points of front bowel feature curve, the designer may quantize the
gathering degree of moulded bra cup and may add constraint on the curve according to the size
of the human body.

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And front bowel feature curve decides the beauty of the outside look to some degree.
2.2.2

Wire Feature Curve

The wire feature curve, constructing in the base of the sagittal plane of having the breast root
arc, is defined by the Gore feature point, Wire line point and the Underarm Cup Side feature
point.
It responds to the breast root arc defined by the breast inside edge point, breast under edge
point and outside edge point of human body.
The root contour arc is a vital element in wire feature curve, which decides the location and
shape of wire and controls the location of Gore point and the Underarm Cup Side point (as shown
in Fig. 6).
1

3
2
54

8
7

1.
2.
3.
4.
5.
6.
7.
8.
9.

Gnathion point
Front neck point
Side neck point
Shoulder point
Acromial point
Innermost point of breast
Bust point
Outermost point of breast
Back armpit point

Fig. 6: Wire feature curve.

The wire feature curve of common moulded bra cup is a plane controlled curve, which only
just fits the general contour of human body. The sports bra mainly employs three-dimensional
wire feature curve to increase the comfortableness of moulded bra cup, protecting and holding
the breast. The wire feature curve just works as a three-dimensional controlling curve.
2.2.3

The Feature Curve of upper and under Cup

The feature curve of upper and under cup is constructed in the frontal shaped facets defined by
the arc of under breast, which is defined by the upper edge point of bra cup (F point), BP point
and the Loop point (D point), as shown in Fig. 7.
It is the curve that plays a key role in the definition of the bra cup depth, which needs the
breast depth of feature size as the designing parameter. And the curve plays a vital role in fixing.
To form the shape of womens breasts, the bra cups should be featured in the holding effect.
The bra designer can work out the upper and under cup feature curve according to pendulous
degree of breasts in the natural situation, and hold the breast in the best state.
The function of inside and outside upper-under cup feature curves are different. The inside
feature curve ensures the breast in an up holding state, according to which the designer can
adjust the curvature of this curve.
And it is the curve that controls the height of upper cup and depth of under cup, which plays
a dominant role in the volume of bra cup and ensures the cup to fit for the female feature in the

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F
BP

BP

D
D

Fig. 7: The feature curve of upper and under cup on human body.
lateral angel of view.
The under cup feature cup in the outside surface controls the dressing effects of bra. But
when designing the curve, the designer should avoid pursuing the up-holding effect and ignore
the beauty of whole proportion.
2.2.4

Armhole Feature Curve

Armhole feature curve (as shown in Fig. 8) refers to a dimensional controlling curve that is from
the top point in the breast longitudinal facets, along the breast surface, to the breast lateral edge
point, which has a gathering effect in the fat of the breast and armpit, and as a result avoids the
accessory breast.

Fig. 8: Armhole feature curve.

2.2.5

Front Edge Feature Curve

Front edge feature curve (as shown in Fig. 9) refers to the controlling curve of bra cup modeling
whose forms are different. But while designing, it sticks to the principle of comfort and beauty
to avoid the phenomenon of pressing the breast.
To sum up, the above five moulded bra cup feature curves are all constructed on the human
body, which are basic controlling curves for moulded bra cup designing and the basic for the bra

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Fig. 9: Front edge feature curve.

cup modeling in curved surface.

All the design of above five controlling curves mainly consider from the shape, function, aspects
etc. And they all take the human feature points and feature curves as the reference.
Whats more, the shape, trend and curvature data of these five curves will be drawn according
to human feature curve, and obeying to human body oriented principle.

The Presentation of Bra Cup Features and Parametric

Moulding

3.1

The Constraint Relation of Moulded Bra Cup Modeling

The parametric method in bra cup designing takes the human features and feature size as the
reference, designing in a parametric way assisted by the formula of calculating the bra cup features.
Among these, the feature sizes are: Distance between two nipple points (K), Inner side breast
width (FL), Distance from Innermost point of breast to under bust line (FH), Bust height
Under bust height (UL), Outer side breast width (BL), Distance from BP to Under bust line
(BH), Distance from BP to breastbone (DH), Under bust width (UBL), Waist width (WL),
Under bust height - Waist height (H), Bust center depth (M), Axillaryline depth (T).
a=Distance from BP to Under bust line (BH) - Distance from Innermost point of breast to
Under bust line (FH)
b=Distance from Innermost point of breast to Under bust line (FH) - Distance from BP to
breastbone (DH)
c=Inner side breast width (FL) + Outer side breast width (BL)
d= Bust height - Waist height (H)
e=1/2Distance between two nipple points (K) + Distance from BP to Outermost point of
breast (BL)
f =1/2Distance between two nipple points (K)
g=1/2Bust center depth (M)

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The Parametric Presentation of Bra Cup Features

The bra cup feature points are some of the basic elements that form the three-dimensional geometrical modeling.
The outside surface of bra cup with different style is formed by different features. Different
patterns of bra cup have different quantity of features and location. To the outside surface of bra
cup in the same style, the designer only adds or adjusts some relevant information of features to
obtain the needed pattern.
In the process of generating the features, this paper employs the method that one group of
feature points generates the other group, and the relations between these feature points are
known as human feature size. Giving the formula of features, the designer can fix the parametric
coordinate figures of features, remedying and adding the needed features, then creating feature
curves of the bra cup modeling.
The system leads in the 3D-human body for generating designing reference planes. The human
feature curves and feature points are acquired from the relevant feature size in the body. From
the formula that appears in the above passage, we can obtain the coordinate figure of feature
points of bra cup, and at the same time, generate the responding bra cup feature curves.
In the lateral cup curve and front cup curve of human body, we should demarcate the feature
points, namely the innermost feature points of breast, bust point, and the outmost feature point
of breast. The parameter of human feature points is presented in Table 1.
Table 1: The presentation of parameter relation of human feature points (unit: mm)
Name

Body feature points

X-axis

Y-axis

Z-axis

obj(1)

Right Innermost point of breast

obj(2)

Left Innermost point of breast

-f

obj(3)

Right BP point

-FH

obj(4)

Left BP point

-e

-FH

obj(5)

Right Outermost point of breast

f+c

obj(6)

Left Outermost point of breast

-f-c

obj(7)

Right undermost point of breast

DH-FL

-UL

obj(8)

Left undermost point of breast

-e

DH-FL

-UL

Among these, the feature size in f reflects the half of distance between two nipple points;
FH refers to Distance from Innermost point of breast to Under bust line; e refers to the
half of Distance between two breasts; a refers to Distance from BP to under bust line (BH) Distance from Innermost point of breast to under bust line (FH); f+c refers to the latitudinal
width of breasts; DH refers to the depth of breast; UL refers to Bust height Under bust
height.
The heart characteristic position, BP position and lateral position of bra cup are generated by
the above six human feature points. Through the construction of three feature sizes in the human
feature points, namely length (P), width (Q), height (R), according to certain designing intent to
deviate the values to generate the feature points (as shown in Fig. 12).
In Fig. 12, the parameter relationship of BP feature points is presented in Table 2. As we
known, the e referees to the half of distance between two breasts. With the additional value of

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397

Fig. 10: The feature points of bra cup generated by the human feature points.
P1 , we can design the direction of bra cup BP-X axis. Because of the symmetrical of the heart
characteristic position, we designed the e to show the feature. Likewise, the FH means
the distance from innermost point of breast to under bust line, which is the basic standard of
designing bra cups. With the additional value of Q1 , we can design the direction of bra cup BP-Y
axis. Because BP points are in the breast horizontal measurement reference plane, the basic value
of BP-Z axis of breasts is zero, and we can add the additional value of R1 to confirming the value
of BP-Z axis of bra cups.
Table 2: Parameter relation of bra cup feature points
Designing Intention

BP X (left)

BP X (right)

BP Y

Push-up
Collecting
Soaring

BY Z
+R1

e-P1

-e+P1
FH+Q1

It is the feature curves that connect the feature points, which is the second important element
that forms the moulded bra cup.
This paper designs the feature curves of bra cup through the feature size that forms between the
feature points of bra cup. Thereby, the designer can endow the feature curves with the designing
connotations. The feature points of bra cup in the feature curves are generated from the feature
points in the human feature curves. And the relation of responding feature points in the latter
and former is presented by the human feature size.
Fig. 12 shows the relationship between front cup feature curves of bra and the feature curves
of the human body.
In constructing bra cup feature curves, except for the Gore points (2 points), Loop points (2
points), Underarm cup side point (2 points), BP points2 points, there needs more controlling
points. Because the less quantity of controlling points will make the curve un-smooth, and there
will be obvious creases in location.
As shown in Fig. 11, the points B1(1), B1(2) and B1(3) and the points B2(1), B2(2) and B2(3)
are divided points from the body feature curves.
In the lateral feature curve and front feature curve, there are three feature points, namely obj(2),
bust point obj(4) and point obj(6). The controlling points obj(198), obj(120) and obj(124) are
responding points to the three feature points of the front feature curve.

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Fig. 11: The relationship of feature sizes and feature points.

Each points obj(2), obj(4) and obj(6) can be endowed with three feature sizes (length P, width
Q, height R). Similarly, the points B2(1), B2(2), B2(3), B1(1), B1(2) and B1(3) in the lateral cup
curve and front cup curve are acquired from the human feature curve. The size of responding
points obj(121), obj(122), obj(123), obj(125), obj(126) and obj(127) in the front cup feature curve
is based on the points B2(1), B2(2), B2(3), B1(1), B1(2) and B1(3) to define the locations.
The means of generating the controlling points are same in the left and right bra cup front cup
feature curve. As the bra cup has symmetrical features, we can present it with the same group
of statistics.
The responding constraint relationship between all the points is the feature size, whose parametric presentation of coordinates is shown in Table 3. According to the human body feature size
such as Xobj(4) , Yobj(4) and Zobj(4) , With the additional value of p1 , q1 and r1 , we can design the
direction of bra cup points. For example, the lateral cup feature curve is the B-spline curve that
goes through the controlling points, such as obj(124), obj(123), obj(122), obj(121) and obj(120).
The front cup feature curve is the B-spline curve that goes through the controlling points, such
as obj(120), obj(127), obj(126), obj(125) and obj(198).
Table 3: The parameter relationship between the bra feature points and body feature points
Name

X-Axis

Y-Axis

Z-Axis

obj(120)

Xobj(4) -p1

Yobj(4) -q1

Zobj(4) -0

obj(121)

XB2(1) -p2

YB2(1) -q2

ZB2(1) -0

obj(122)

XB2(2) -p3

YB2(2) -q3

ZB2(2) -0

obj(123)

XB2(3) -p4

YB2(3) -q4

ZB2(3) -0

obj(124)

Xobj(6) -p5

Yobj(6) -q5

Zobj(6) -0

obj(198)

Xobj(2) -p6

Yobj(2) -q6

Zobj(2) -0

obj(125)

XB1(1) -p7

YB1(1) -q7

ZB1(1) -0

obj(126)

XB1(2) -1/4e+p8

YB1(2) -1/2DH-q8

ZB1(2) -0

obj(127)

XB1(3) -1/2e+p9

YB1(3) -DH-q9

ZB1(3) -0

For example, when p1 =0.5, p2 =0.5, p3 =0.5, p4 =0.6, p5 =0.5, p6 =0.1, p7 =0, p8 =0.1, p9 =0.3;
q1 =0.5, q2 =0.5, q3 =0.5, q4 =0.6, q5 =0.5, q6 =0.1, q7 =0, q8 =0.1, q9 =0.3, the front cup feature

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curve a will be generated (as shown in Fig. 12 (a)).

When p1 =0.3, p2 =1.1, p3 =0.8, p4 =0.6, p5 =0.2, p6 =0.1p7 =0.3, p8 =0.8, p9 =0.1; q1 =1.5, q2 =1.3,
q3 =1.2, q4 =1.0, q5 =0.5, q6 =0.2, q7 =0.3, q8 =0.5, q9 =0.7, the front cup feature curve b will be
generated (as shown in Fig. 12 (b)).
When p1 =0, p2 =0, p3 =0, p4 =0, p5 =0, p6 =0, p7 =0.3, p8 =0.1, p9 =0.1; q1 =0.8, q2 =0.8, q3 =0.5,
q4 =0.5, q5 =0.3, q6 =0, q7 =0.3, q8 =0, q9 =0, the front cup feature curve c will be generated (as
shown in Fig. 12 (c)).
The bra designer may choose or input different pi (i=1, , 8), qi (i=1, , 8) values to make
the front cup feature curve change in shapes, as a result, generating bra cup feature curves in
different styles.

(a)

(b)

(c)

Fig. 12: Front and lateral cup feature curve in different styles.

The Realization of Moulded Bra Cup Parametric Model

In the UG situation, applying the UG/grip language is used to the module of parametric moulded
bra cup. The instructions of model are as follows:
Entity/pt1, pt2, pt3, pt (200), precsys, obj(500)
l10:
pt1=point/0, 0, 0
pt2=point/1, 0, 0
pt3=point/0, 1, 0
precsys=csys/pt1, pt2, pt3
delete/pt2, pt3
a=BH-FH
b=DH-FH
c=FL+BL
d=UL+H
e=1/2*K+FL
f=1/2*K
g=1/2*M
h=1/2*T
The parameterization of body feature points is as follows:
obj(1)=point/pt1, delta, f, 0, 0

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$$ (right) the inner edge point of breast

obj(2)=point/pt1, delta, -f, 0, 0
$$(left) the inner edge point of breast
obj(3)=point/pt1, delta, e, -FH, 0
$$ (right) breast top point
obj(4)=point/pt1, delta, -e, -FH, 0
$$ (left) breast top point
obj(5)=point/pt1, delta, f+c, a, 0
$$ (right) the lateral edge point of breast
obj(6)=point/pt1, delta, -f-c, a, 0
$$(left) the lateral edge point of breast
obj(8)=point/obj(3), delta, 0, DH, -UL
$$ (right) the under edge point of breast
obj(9)=point/obj(4), delta, 0, DH, -UL
$$ (left) the under edge point of breast
The parameterizations of BP points are as follows:
obj(119)=point/obj(3), delta, P1-e, FH-Q1, R1
$$(right) BP points of moulded bra cup
obj(120)=point/obj(4), delta, e-P1, FH-Q1, R1
$$(left) BP points of moulded bra cup
In the front cup curve, the points B1(1), B1(2), B1(3) and B1(1), B1(2), B1(3) in the obj(113)
are divide controlling points getting from the human feature curves, whose parameterization are
as follows:
cpset/eparam, obj(112), 3, part, 0.1, 0.9, B1
cpset/eparam, obj(113), 3, part, 0.1, 0.9, B2
The constraint relationships of these points are feature sizes, whose parameterizations are as
follows:
l130:
obj(120)=point/obj(4), delta, -p1, -q1, 0
obj(121)=point/B2(1), delta, -p2, -q2, 0
obj(122)=point/B2(2), delta, -p3, -q3, 0
obj(123)=point/B2(3), delta, -p4, -q4, 0
obj(124)=point/obj(6), delta, -p5, -q5, 0
$$ (left) the lateral cup feature points
obj(198)=point/obj(2), delta, p6, -q6, 0
obj(125)=point/B1(1), delta, p7, -q7, 0
obj(126)=point/B1(2), delta, -1/4*e+p8, -1/2*DH-q8, 0

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obj(127)=point/B1(3), delta, -1/2*e+p9, -DH-q9, 0

$$ (left) the front cup feature points
obj(136)=spline/obj(124), obj(123), obj(122), obj(121), obj(120)
$$ (left) the lateral cup feature curve
obj(137)=spline/obj(120), obj(127), obj(126), obj(125), obj(198)
$$ (left) the front cup feature curve
jump/l130:
In the under bra cup feature curve, A1(1), A1(2), A1(3) are divided controlling points from the
body feature curve, its parameterization are shown as follows:
cpset/eparam, obj(184), 3, part, 0.3, 0.7, A1
The parameterization of under cup feature curves is displayed as follows:
L230:
obj(190)=point/A1(1), delta, 0, -v1, -w1
obj(191)=point/A1(2), delta, 0, -v2, -w2
obj(192)=point/A1(3), delta, 0, -v3, -w3
obj(193)=point/obj(9), delta, 0, -v4, -w4
$$(left) the feature points in the under cup feature curve
obj(194)=spline/obj(120), obj(190), obj(191), obj(192), obj(193)
Jump/l230:
$$(left) the under cup feature curve
In the upper bra cup curve, the points C1(1), C1(2), C1(3) are divided controlling points from
the human feature curve, and they can be parameterized as follows:
cpset/eparam, obj(186), 3, part, 0.1, 0.9, C1
L270:
obj(249)=point/C1(1), delta, 0, y1, z1
obj(250)=point/C1(2), delta, 0, y2, z2
obj(251)=point/C1(3), delta, 0, y3, z3
obj(259)=spline/obj(120), obj(249), obj(250), obj(251), obj(252)
Jump/l270:
$$(left) the upper cup feature curve

Conclusions

In this paper, the author expounds the feature points of moulded bra cup, the parameterization
of feature curve and its realization. Besides, the relationship between the dimensional moulded
bra cup model parameter and model shape, and the constraint relationship among the moulded
bra cup are also investigated.

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B. Ying et al. / Journal of Fiber Bioengineering & Informatics 4:4 (2011) 389402

Through analyzing the modeling features points and curves of moulded bra cup, the paper
connects the size, the style, the curves and the feature points that form the curve together,
paving a solid base for the parametric moulded bra cup modeling design.

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