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JULY 2014

THE GREEK ISLANDS

HOTTEST HOTELS, INSIDER SECRETS, FOODIE FAVOURITES, COOLEST HANGOUTS

BEST BEACHES IN THE

MEDITERRANEAN
FUNKY FORMENTERA

ON HOLIDAY
WITH

MICHELLE DOCKERY
LEA SEYDOUX

FIRST REVIEWS

NEW HOTELS
AUSTRALIA
ENGLAND
THE MALDIVES

SUMMER HIDEAWAYS
FAMILY VILLAS + MEXICAN RETREATS + AFRICAN SPAS

CONTENTS
JULY 2014

Features
64 Greek Islands

96

Our insiders guide to


the best little hotels, villas, beaches, boats and tavernas,
plus expert tips on the food to eat and the fashion to buy

Namibia Head-turning fashion to blaze


a trail on Africas ame-coloured desert plains

78 Marfa

To get under the skin of


authentic Mexico, hit the colourful streets and villas of
its most off-the-radar, creatively minded town

For a road-trip destination that will


turn your world upside down, make tracks for the Texan
desert town that has gone wild about modern art

108 Mrida

88 Formentera

Not just a boat trip


from Ibiza but a beach-beauty destination in itself, this
laid-back Balearic island dances to its own beat

A sitting room in San


Giorgio hotel, Mykonos
July 2014 Cond Nast Traveller 7

CONTENTS

July 2014

48

96

88
In this issue
12 Contributors
21 Word of mouth The places and
people creating a buzz around the
world, from Paris to Queensland

30 Short break Bask in the glow

52

of Golden Age art in the jewel-box


galleries of The Hague

34 Out of my comfort zone


Reluctant rider Ronni Ancona saddles
up for dressage at Lucknam Park. Plus,
tourist information for Shangri-La

37 Where to stay An exclusive rst


look at Maalifushi by COMO in the
Maldives; Bed-hopping with Livia Firth;
The Weekender in Somerset; Sally
Shalams Great British Breaks, from
the Cornish coast to the Lake District

30

46 A letter from New Zealand,


where a walk by the sea can become
a white-knuckle adventure

On the cover
San Giorgio hotel,
Mykonos

48 Neighbourhood on the up
Cross the tracks to The Junction,
Torontos buzziest district

52 Style file Beach-break essentials,


plus the Cte dAzurs most indulgent
spa. Jewellery Abstract pieces designed
by Kandinsky. Beauty French actress
La Seydoux. Mens Racing a superyacht
puts wind in your sails. On the scene
The Oberoi Udaivilas, Udaipur
8 Cond Nast Traveller July 2014

63 Trendwatch New Yorks Upper


East Side is letting its hair down

118 A travellers tales


Around the world with Downton
Abbeys Michelle Dockery

120 In Britain Lay siege to the sausage


rolls, Victoria sponges and vintage
collectibles of castle town Arundel

127 The experts The up-and-coming


chef who will get your dinner party
started. Gadgets Travel gear that
will make packing fun. Family Four
special villas to rent around Europe.
Feasting Bring the Med to your table
with burrata and two sun-soaked
wines. Books This months best new
travel titles. Health Wildly pampering
spas in Africa. Q&A From Auckland
side trips and shopping villages to
a tness holiday for softies your
questions answered by our team

142 Competition Win a 4,000


holiday for two at Dubais Jumeirah
Zabeel Saray hotel

145 Reader offer Save 15 per cent


on a summer break at an Alpine
chalet in Chamonix

160 Room with a view Cas Gasi,


Santa Gertrudis, Ibiza

PHOTOGRAPHS: CARLO BORLENGHI; ANNE DOKTER; CHLOE MALLETT; JAMES MEAKIN;


OVAL MIT KREISEN KANDINSKY KOLLEKTION LUCAS RARITIES LIMITED; RUSS STYLES/IMAGEBRIEF

10 Editors letter

EDITORS LETTER

he beginning of the year was really rubbish. I kept thinking that after
wed got everyone back to school and work swung into place, wed be able
to go away. I felt an almost insurmountable desire to go somewhere that
smelt entirely different. I desperately needed to stick my head out of a
train window in India, or Argentina, or Vietnam and see something other than our
local Paddy Power betting shop with a glut of motorised wheelchairs parked outside.
I also really needed to have a conversation with my husband.
Conversation with him was at that caveman-parenting point. Mostly in couplets that did not
rhyme. Children. Nits. Or: House account. Overdrawn. And on one unfortunate day: Car. Crash.
And yet I was too tired to say sorry. Id also had a delayed reaction to having three children.
Everyone says three will push you over the edge. It took me four years to work it out, but
hell yeah, three is insania! Who were these people in my house? How come they were so small
and yet so powerful?
It didnt take me long to realise that an adventure was not going to happen. We needed something
easy and fast. Easy and fast is Dubai.
So the two of us are in the airport lounge waiting for the ight, doing things that you do when
youre not travelling with children, such as drinking Cava in funny little glasses and reading
the Daily Mail, when my husband says, Are you bored yet? And I blurt out, You read my mind!
Bored crazy! What on earth are we going to DO, or SAY to each other, for FOUR DAYS?
He pauses. And then he repeats: I said that our ight is ready. To board.
But, as it happened, it turned out swimmingly. We stayed at a hotel called the One&Only
although there are two of them in Dubai. The pool was the prettiest Id ever seen. I took photos
from every angle and stuck them on Instagram. It was hot, and we got burnt and laughed at each
other. We did our usual and had a big breakfast, said lunch was for losers, and moved on early
to a steady ow of exotic cocktails. We listened to other peoples conversations and marvelled at
how nice human beings actually are (if rather samey).
Naturally, I had a mental list of Topics to Discuss. Which we never got around to, because we
were having a very nice time doing other things like laughing and pootling about. It occurred to
me that being in love is actually really easy. Its just that sometimes the liking part can be hard.
Four days later were on our way home, and thats what Im thinking to myself, sitting in the car,
holding hands with him, how lovely it is to know, even though were going back to inevitable chaos,
that I really do enormously like him a whole tremendous heap.
This is the new issue of Cond Nast Traveller. For those who dont underestimate the potency of
the short break.

Melinda Stevens
Editor
@MelindaStevens3

MelindaLP

WINNER NEW EDITOR OF THE YEAR


Truth in Travel is this magazines promise to the reader to be an essential source
of honest, first-hand opinion and must-have information. You can trust Cond Nast Traveller
to give you the unbiased inside track, with integrity and attitude.
All information and travel details are correct at the time of going to press and may no longer be so on the date of publication.
Unless otherwise stated, hotel prices are low-season rates and restaurant prices are for a three-course meal for two without drinks
10 Cond Nast Traveller July 2014

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CONTRIBUTORS
Inspired by this months Marfa feature,
we asked our contributors to describe
their most surreal travel experience. . .

James Meakin Photographer, Namibia (p96)

Arriving in Ho Chi Min on Halloween night in 1996. It felt


like walking into the middle of the Vietnam war, with recrackers
going off and everyone dressed up in grotesque masks. I had no
idea what decade it was, let alone day or hour. Joanna has just
launched Kitchen Table Cookery school at Talbot Inn in Somerset

Laura Fowler Writer, Marfa (p78)


Varanasi, in India, is a magical labyrinth. I arrived after
dark and was instantly lost. A man popped out from behind a
shrine and, without asking where it was, led me straight to
my guesthouse. In the morning, as I breakfasted, he waved
from across the rooftops and released a ock of pigeons into
a pink sky. Laura is deputy editor of cntraveller.com

Rachel Howard Writer, Greek Islands (p64)


Black Point in the Bahamas. The whole population about
200 people turned up at the islands only bar and expected me
to buy them all drinks. I fended off several marriage and other
questionable proposals before a local with a speedboat helped
me escape. Rachel is the author of two Secret London guides
12 Cond Nast Traveller July 2014

Tara Fisher Photographer, Arundel (p120)


I visited my aunts sheep farm in Augathella, Queensland.
It was just me, my aunt, the sheep and a whole lot of kangaroos.
The isolation totally panicked me. Worse still, the bathroom
was only accessible by circumnavigating poisonous snakes.
Tara lives in South London with her partner and two children

Amanda Marsalis Photographer, Mrida (p108)


When I was 18, I went to Belem in Brazil. It was a
pretty strange trip, which included sailing up the Amazon
at midnight with a little boy who kept scooping water
out of the bottom of our sinking boat with a bucket.
Amandas rst feature lm, Echo Park, has its premiere
at this years Los Angeles Film Festival

PHOTOGRAPHS: TARA FISHER; JOHN HUBA; AMANDA MARSALIS; JAMES MEAKIN

Joanna Weinberg Writer, Mrida (p108)

I think Namibia tops my list. Visiting the diamond


ghost town of Kolmanskop was strange; its like a Bavarian
village thats slowly being consumed by the desert, with
sand-lled rooms and peeling silk wallpaper, a gymnasium
left in a timewarp from the century before, and sidewinders
sliding around. Former RAF pilot James has travelled from
Cornwall to Cape Town photographing fashion

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The most desirable villas in


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WORD OF MOUTH
Whats hot in Queensland Paris London Galloway Tokyo
EDITED BY FIONA KERR

rock and rollers


One of Australias big 1950s stars is set for a major comeback

hen youre just a stones skim from the immense beauty of the worlds largest
coral reef, its hard to compete. Yet Hayman, the most northerly of Queenslands
Whitsunday Islands, has always dazzled. A hotel opened here in 1950 and the great
and the good ocked by ying boat to laze on its white beaches. When the private
island was redeveloped in the 1980s, its then owner coated it in marble, from bathrooms
to balconies (he bought his own mine to prevent any shortages), with over-the-top
ourishes (22-carat gold taps, Louis XIV-style furniture in the La Fontaine restaurant).
In September, Sol Kerzner of the One&Only group took over, bringing some muscle to
the service before closing the island in January for a proper ret. When the Great Barrier
Reefs most glamorous hotel reopens on 1 July as One&Only Hayman Island, itll look its
most sensational yet. The colossal pool seven times Olympic-sized with its own
lounger-lined island survives, but the stylish make-under has transformed 244 rooms
into a more intimate, spacious and private 160, as well as adding a new spa and kids
club. The slick beach villas (pictured), designed by Aman favourite Kerry Hill, are still the
smartest stay on an island that is, at last, back as Australias most brilliant. +61 7 4940
1838; www.oneandonlyresorts.com. Doubles from about 300. Qantas (www.qantas.com.au)
launch direct ights from Sydney to Great Barrier Reef Airport, Hamilton Island on 2 July
July 2014 Cond Nast Traveller 21

WORD OF MOUTH
Congolese
Sapeurs and,
left, a shop in
Brazzaville

THE CLOTHES
Sam Lambert, designer at
Art Comes First collective,
gives the rules to dress by.

DO
O Button your shirt right up.
OTailor the hems of your

trousers to fall one inch


above your shoes.
OMake sure your suit is
pressed. Seams should be as
sharp as your look.

DONT
OWear a belt with a suit. Side

adjusters give a cleaner line.


OGo for cut-away shirts.

The top collar should be


pointed.
OFasten the bottom button
of your suit jacket.

THE HAIR

A Sapeur and,
right, photographs
from the Somerset
House exhibition

THE BOYS
ARE BACK
IN TOWN
Around the world a new generation
is reviving the sartorial swagger of
Fifties Jamaica for the 21st century

harply dressed gents are not just


to be found in the streets of
London, New York, Paris and
Milan. In 1950s in Kingston, a certain
tribe, the original Rudeboys, wore
mohair suits, thin ties and pork-pie
hats, inuenced by the sartorial vibe
of American jazz and RnB artists,
mixing up their music to create ska. In
a similar spirit, todays showboating
Sapeurs in Brazzaville, Congo (made
famous by this years Guinness advert)

don bold suits and pocket squares,


meanwhile in Soweto, the Smarteez
combine amboyant tailoring with
traditional fashion. Now, Somerset
House is focusing on modern dandies
in a multi-sensory show including a
barber shop and photographs by Dean
Chalkley. Everyone I shot is ercely
individual but has a shared style,
he says. Here three creatives behind
Return of the Rudeboy share their tips
on how to follow suit. EMMA LOVE

THE SOUND
Music producer Rashad Smith, whos worked with The
Notorious B.I.G and Nas, picks four tracks to download.
1. STEPPING RAZOR by Peter Tosh. The lyrics Dont
you watch my size Im dangerous speak to all Rudeboys,
from the smallest to the biggest man.
2. I AM THE CONQUEROR by Dennis Brown. The
intro will give you the courage and condence of a lion.
3. THE GUNS OF BRIXTON by The Clash. The
drum and bass feels like a riot is going on in the streets
and the Rudeboys are ghting for freedom.
4. GHETTO RED HOT by Super Cat. A true Rudeboy
and one of my favourite dancehall artists.
Return of the Rudeboy runs from 13 June to 25 August at
Somerset House (www.somersethouse.org.uk)
22 Cond Nast Traveller July 2014

PHOTOGRAPHS: DEAN CHALKLEY; HECTOR MEDIAVILLA; DANIELE TAMAGNI

Andrew Daniel, barber at We Are Cuts salon


in Soho, London, styles the crowning look.
Rudeboys with dreads should keep their locks
short: dont let them grow like a Rasta. Trim
the ends when theyre still sticking up, before
gravity takes over. White Rudeboys who want
longer hair should go for a ruffled, French
Mod crop with short sides, or the skiffle, a
clipper cut with an optional shaved-in parting.

WORD OF MOUTH

EASY
RIDER
A

s any cyclist worth their cleats will


tell you, coffee and cake are almost
as important to a good ride as inner
tubes and tyre levers. And, like city bike-hire
schemes, cycle cafs where riders can refuel,
catch screenings of the Tour de France (kicking
off this year in Yorkshire on 5 July) and get
their bike xed are rolling out worldwide.
Londons Look Mum No Hands! is one of
the originals. Id always wanted somewhere
to watch live Tour de France in London, says
Matthew Harper, who opened the caf in
2010 with friends Lewin Chalkley and Sam
Humpheson. Our shop was based around
things we loved bikes, coffee, beer, pies
and live cycling all under one roof. It was
a fun idea and has proved to be a shared
passion, evident in the fact that all sorts of
cyclists want to drop by. Though known for
its boisterous atmosphere during the Tour, its
not just for die-hard Lycra louts and kamikaze

RE-INVENTING THE WHEELS Bicycle boffins around the world are

MEXICO: BAMBOO
To build a more eco-friendly bike, Diego Cardenas
has replaced the steel tubes of the frame with
fast-growing bamboo. http://bamboocycles.com

JAPAN: MAHOGANY
Sueshiro Sano turned his woodworking skills from
shipbuilding to bicycle-making to craft these rare
designs. http://sanomagic.world.coocan.jp

couriers. The Belgian beers, fresh juices and


proper food also attract commuting foldies,
xie-riding hipsters and families.
Throw in lm nights, exhibitions and cyclist
camaraderie, and its no surprise such cafs
are booming from Starling & Hero in Cape
Town and Serk in Beijing to Upcycle in Milan,
Melbournes Little Mule and the recently
opened Velo Caf in Brighton.
Rapha, the retro-styled UK cycle-clothing
brand, has added boutique shopping to the mix.
The rst Rapha Cycle Club, in San Francisco,
put classy threads on sale alongside Four Barrel
coffee, Dynamo Donuts and farmers market
sandwiches. Now also in London, Osaka, New
York and Sydney, it will be opening in Tokyo,
Amsterdam and Los Angeles this year. Another
LA spot, Peddlers Creamery uses bike power
to churn ice cream; and at De Fietskantine
in Amsterdam you can have your whiskers
trimmed while your bike is being tuned up. But
the ultimate in cycling cool is Tokyos Kinfolk
Lounge, a speakeasy-style bar festooned with
Kinfolk bicycle frames. Just dont have too many
of its Ginger Mint Mojitos before wobbling off
into the night. MAX LEONARD

getting creative with the unlikeliest materials

THE NETHERLANDS: PLYWOOD


Dutch designer Basten Leijh has devised a
at-pack bike that comes in 52 parts for riders
to build at home. www.sandwichbikes.com

ISRAEL: CARDBOARD
Tel Avivs Cardboard Technologies turns recycled
packaging and car tyres into light, affordable,
waterproof bicycles. www.cardboardtech.com
July 2014 Cond Nast Traveller 25

WORD OF MOUTH

THE NEW BRIT BREAKS


Done with Devon and crowded out of Cornwall? Try one of
these under-the-radar spots for your next holiday at home
THE PICTURE-PERFECT VILLAGE
WHERE Blanchland, Northumberland
WHY The Cotswolds dont have the
monopoly on pretty. This lovely village
was built using sandstone from the ruined
12th-century abbey that remains the star
attraction. The North Pennines form the
backdrop, with heather-ecked moors and
tranquil mountains made for long walks.
WHAT TO DO Stay at the Lord Crewe Arms
(left, doubles from 140), a historic 21-room
inn which has been given a makeover by the
people behind Calcot Manor. Families should
book one of the former miners cottages.
THE CLASSIC SEASIDE TOWN

THE SEE-NO-ONE BEACHES

WHERE St Leonards-on-Sea,
East Sussex
WHY With its cutesy Old Town and hut-lined
beach, this elegant annexe to neighbouring
Hastings has enticed many a creative London
escapee. To complete the retro-by-the-sea
fantasy, visit the revamped 19th-century
Hastings Pier when it opens next spring.
WHAT TO DO Browse the antiques shops and
galleries on Norman Road, then stop for a drink
at St Leonard gastropub. Stay at Caple Gardens
(right, from 400 for three nights), journalist
and author Kathryn Fletts Arts & Crafts
cottage, which has its own beach chalet.

WHERE Galloway coast, Scotland


WHY Think of the Scottish seaside and the
Highlands and islands spring to mind. But there
are secret corners just as high on charm and
beauty. Look no further than the Galloway
coast and its deserted sandy stretches.
WHAT TO DO Seek out secluded Dhoon
Beach and spot the shipwreck at low tide.
Pretty Kirkcudbright is home to artists, and
Wigtown hosts a book festival in September.
Stay at High Lodge (above, from 305 per
week), a one-bedroom gamekeepers cottage
with sea views on the 600-acre Galloway
House Estate. AOIFE ORIORDAIN

Jason Atherton is everywhere.


Having just opened his fifth London
outpost, City Social in Tower 42, hes
moving on to the InterContinental
Dubai Marina. Hell also be checking in
on his restaurants in the Far East and
publishing a book, Social Suppers (24.99,
Bloomsbury), this month. So, if he could teleport
around the globe for a day, where would he eat?
26 Cond Nast Traveller July 2014

Jason Athertons perfect day


9AM: LONDON
Haggis with fried duck egg and HP
sauce at The Wolseley. Im not supposed
to eat it as Im watching my weight, but
this is a true indulgence.
11AM: PARIS
Salade Flore at Caf de Flore. A hearty
salad, though really you come for the
atmosphere. It has proper Parisian charm.
1PM: SINGAPORE
Roasted tiger prawn in salted egg at Tiong
Shian Porridge Centre, Keong Saik Road
The best hawker centre in the city.
4PM: HONG KONG
Afternoon tea at The Upper House. The
views over Victoria Harbour are amazing.
8PM: NEW YORK
The 15-course tasting menu at Eleven
Madison Park (strawberry gazpacho
pictured left). This place has three
Michelin stars and is all that and more.

PHOTOGRAPH: NICK WILSON/CAMERA PRESS

The travelling chef

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WORD OF MOUTH

PAOLA NAVONE
FERNANDO AND HUMBERTO
CAMPANA

Korean street-food
canteen

TOM DIXON
Grocers and shmongers

Caf and sh restaurant

VINCENT DARRE

EUGENI QUITLLET

Ice-cream shop

Cheese shop

INGO MAURER
Speakeasy

LOOK WHOS MOVING IN

Forget the concept store: La Jeune Rue in Paris is a whole concept street, with top
designers creating the citys coolest cluster of food shops, restaurants and bars
Good is natural, beautiful is available, taste is unique is the mantra
of Cdric Naudon, the mysterious Parisian entrepreneur and
self-proclaimed editor of places behind La Jeune Rue. After making
his fortune in nance and property, and opening Michelin-starred
restaurant Le Sergent Recruteur in 2012, Naudon discreetly started
buying up vacant shops and restaurants on three streets in the
northern Marais. In just six months he amassed 35. His masterplan?
To create an extraordinary epicurean enclave: a coming together of
international design and ethical food producers. Just launched is a
Korean street-food canteen designed by Paola Navone (whose CV
includes the interiors of the recently opened Point Yamu by COMO
on Phuket), with an ice-cream shop by fashion-turned-interior

designer Vincent Darr and a revamped Argentine restaurant from


Maud Bury (who used to work with Philippe Starck) to follow soon
after. The list of outlets set to open over the coming year reads like
a Whos Who of the design world: Tom Dixon (in charge of a grocers
and a shmongers), Ingo Maurer (speakeasy), Oki Sato of Nendo
(patisserie and bakery), Eugeni Quitllet (cheese shop) and Michele
de Lucchi (butchers). It is a unique experiment, say Brazilian duo
Fernando and Humberto Campana, who are adding a caf and a
sh restaurant. We hope that we can create a compelling backdrop
to showcase the food, but also alter the urban texture of the city by
bringing back traditional shops butchers, shmongers, bakers
updated with a modern aesthetic. NATASHA EDWARDS

the trends taking off and those running out of fuel


DISNEY

REVOLVING HOTELS

Do it smart with Four Seasons opening in Orlando and Abercrombie & Kents
new exclusive, after-hours access. Go on, the kids will love you

Were queasy at the thought, but the snappily named Faralda NDSM
Crane Hotel Amsterdam has suites at the top of a crane, turning slowly

PENNY SKATEBOARDS

MILE HIGH CLUB

These tiny boards are huge in LA and the only wheels if youre not on
a bike to whizz around on this summer

Getting all too easy to join thanks to Love Cloud, a one-couple plane with
a bed and the tagline What happens over Vegas, stays over Vegas

BUDAPEST

FORGETFULNESS

The best-value Euro city break, says the Post Office Travel Money survey.
Funky art, alluring faded grandeur and buzzy pop-up bars in old ruins

Youll never arrive without your ip-ops again if you have the new
Packpoint app, which creates packing lists based on your destination

28 Cond Nast Traveller July 2014

Clockwise from this picture: teas at


Residenz Stadslogement; a visitor at
the Gemeentemuseum; a sitting room
at Residenz Stadslogement; shopping
on the boutique-lined Denneweg.
Opposite, a surf shop in Scheveningen

SOMEWHERE FOR THE WEEKEND?

THEHAGUE

The revamp of its top gallery is a


great excuse to visit this cultured
Dutch city. By Claire Wrathall.
Photographs by Anne Dokter

wo years ago, when Vermeers


Girl with a Pearl Earring went
on show in Japan, an astonishing
1.2 million people queued up
to peer at it, or at least to photograph it
with their smartphones.
So perhaps its no surprise that more
Japanese than British tourists bother to
visit The Hague, the paintings permanent
home, even though the city is only 30
minutes by train from Amsterdams
Schiphol airport and less than ve hours
from London on Eurostar.
Ordinarily the painting hangs in the
Mauritshuis, a jewel box of a palace
surrounded by water, which even before
the 25-million refurbishment to be
revealed on 27 June, was perhaps the most
perfect picture gallery on the planet.
Were very keen to get the Girl back
to her old room on the second oor, says
museum director Emilie Gordenker of
Vermeers best-loved painting, which has
spent the past two years on a world tour.
Shes been getting a little homesick.
Not that she is the only star in the
gallerys small but impeccable collection
of 17th-century Golden Age Dutch
art, which runs to two further Vermeers,
11 great Rembrandts, a marvellously
messy household scene by Jan Steen
that made his name synonymous with
untidiness in Dutch, and Carel Fabritiuss
exquisite painting The Goldnch, which
Donna Tartts bestseller stands to make
as famous as Tracy Chevalier (and the
Scarlett Johansson lm) made the Girl.
The Mauritshuis does seem to attract
novelists, says Gordenker with a laugh.
The quality of the works obviously
inspires them, but theres more to it than
that. Golden Age painting tends to be
domestic in scale, quite approachable,
she says. Things look much as they do in
real life. You dont need to know biblical

or mythological stories to understand


this kind of art. And I think the intimacy
of the place has something to do with
it, too. The rooms here are quite small,
and you can really get close.
Gordenker is condent that fans of the
museum will see the overhaul more as a
bit of a facelift than a radical intervention.
Linen wall coverings have been replaced
with superior silk damask; and rather than
adding a new extension, a neighbouring
1930s building has been linked to the
mother ship by an underground foyer with
a glazed roof. Gordenker suggests that it
is reminiscent, in idea if not quite in form,
of IM Peis Pyramid at the Louvre and
New Yorks Fifth Avenue Apple Store.
For all the splendour of the Mauritshuis,
it isnt the only great gallery in The Hague.
Theres a fascinating collection of work
by Van Gogh, Kokoschka, Picasso and
Kandinsky at the Gemeentemuseum. But

its real strength lies in the galleries


devoted to De Stijl, the most important
Dutch art movement of the 20th century,
without which Modernism might have
looked altogether less block-like and
cubist. Its most famous adherent was Piet
Mondrian, almost 300 of whose works
are here, from the murky landscapes of
his youth to the colour-block grids that
made him famous.
The Gemeentemuseum also has serious
contemporary credentials. This autumn,
for instance, it will host the pre-eminent
European art prize, the 50,000 Vincent
Van Gogh Biennial Award, better known
as the Vincent. Pierre Huyghe, Manfred
Pernice, Anri Sala, Willem de Rooij and
Gillian Wearing are on the shortlist,
and their work will be showcased from
6 September to 1 February.
Make time for a spin around Escher in
het Paleis, an extraordinary museum 
July 2014 Cond Nast Traveller 31

SOMEWHERE FOR THE WEEKEND?: THE HAGUE

 devoted to the Dutch graphic artist


MC Escher in the former royal winter
palace, for which Hans van Bentem
designed 15 gigantic chandeliers shaped
like stars, skulls, sharks, spiders and, most
splendidly, sea urchins. In addition to
Eschers familiar perspective-altering
drawings, theres a oor of bewildering
(in the best sense), reality-distorting
installations to mess with your perception
of space, size and reection.
Also worth a look is the Mesdag
Panorama, a 120-metre-long painting of
the coast at nearby Scheveningen as it
was in 1881 somewhat different, alas,
from how The Hagues seaside sibling
looks today. The resort has become rather
tawdry, but Id recommend the walk
through the woods that takes you there.
The sea air is bracing, and fortifying
street food on offer includes sizzling
croquettes of North Sea shrimps, paper
cones of fries with mayonnaise, and
syrup-drizzled wafes. After all that,
a walk back is probably a good idea,
although there is also a tram.
Alternatively, the afternoon could be
spent at Seinpost (about 140 for two),

32 Cond Nast Traveller July 2014

OVERHEAD ARE GIANT


CHANDELIERS SHAPED
LIKE STARS, SKULLS,
SHARKS, SPIDERS AND
SEA URCHINS
which is one of ve Michelin-starred
restaurants within three miles of The
Hagues centre (HanTing Cuisine and
Callas are two others to keep in mind).
Given Seinposts seafront location,
its not surprising that sh is the house
speciality; and although it may seem a
waste to order something as simple as
a shellsh platter clams, crevettes, crab,
mussels, lobster, shrimps and exceptional
Gillardeau and small, round Zeeuwse
oysters in a place prized for its cooking,
it makes for a gloriously self-indulgent
extended Sunday lunch.
Theres also good, less pricey sh
at Viszooi (about 60 for two): turbot
with celeriac chips, smoked eel with
sauerkraut, or skate with burnt butter,
depending on the days catch. Or try
chef Bas Oonks restaurant Basaal
(about 70 for two), where contemporary

Dutch cooking is dished up in elegant,


modern surroundings: light craysh
croquettes with saffron mayonnaise,
a hearty stamppot a champ-like dish
of potato, onion and kale and deftly
prepared local meats and sh. Its
worth leaving room for the eye-opening
array of Dutch cheeses.
Another good option is Dendy (about
70 for two). This is the place for a
relaxed steak-and-chips supper; the menu
wont set your pulse racing, but its a
fun spot on the corner of Hooistraat and
the the buzzy, caf-lined Denneweg.
Nearby is the Hotel Des Indes (doubles
from about 120), which is the citys
best place to stay especially since the
closure last Christmas of the palatial
Haagsche Suites. Its an imposing, ochrepainted neoclassical mansion on the
sylvan central square known as Lange
Voorhout. Built in 1858 as a palace
for parties by Baron van Brienen, it
became a hotel in 1881 and since then
has been the top choice for distinguished
visitors and heads of state. (Its just
minutes away from the Binnenhof, the
turreted 15th-century seat of the Dutch

Left, The Hague-based fashion designer Erik


Frenken and Brigitte Tellier, beauty editor at
Dutch Glamour. Far left, from top: a squid-andsardine dish at Seinpost; terrace at Residenz
Stadslogement. Opposite: the Escher museum;
Catch restaurant in Scheveningen

who lived and died here. (Carel Fabritius


also lived in Delft till his death in 1654
at the age of 32, when the towns arsenal
exploded, destroying his studio and much
of his work.) Saunter south to the end of
the Oude Delft, the towns oldest canal,
to where it loops around and becomes
the Lange Geer: this was the point from
which, in about 1660, Vermeer painted his
View of Delft. Three-and-a-half centuries
on, the spires of the Nieuwe Kerk and
the distinctive tower of the Oude Kerk
are more or less as they were, even if the
Schiedam gate is long since demolished.
For me, at least, the View of Delft is
the chief treasure in the Mauritshuis, the
one I would covet if I were a character
in a Donna Tartt novel. Like the Girl
and the Goldnch, the View has its own
place in ction. In the fth volume of
A la rcherche du temps perdu, Proust has
a character Bergotte, a novelist, of course
expire in front of it: At last he came
to the Vermeer, which he remembered
as more striking, more different from
anything he had ever known. As, when
you gaze on it for real, it seems still.
parliament, and King Willem-Alexanders
working palace, the Paleis Noordeinde.)
The seductive spy Mata Hari made the
hotel her home from home (her portrait
hangs in the lobby), and the ballerina
Anna Pavlova died here. It was rather
marvellously made over in 2006 by
Jacques Garcia, the master of maximalism,
hence the Victorian-bordello look of
its galleried, glass-cupola-topped lobby
and the black velvet banisters on the
majestic double staircase.
If that sounds too much, Petra Mallant
and Frank Iwemas more restrained
Residenz Stadslogement (doubles from
about 130) is a good bet, although it
is in Sweelinckplein, about half an hours
walk from the Mauritshuis, or ve stops
on the No 17 tram.
Another tram, this time the No 1, goes
to Delft, ofcially a separate town even
though its barely 15 minutes away.
Crosshatched by narrow canals lined with
the slenderest red-roofed step-gabled
merchants houses, its old town is a kind
of Amsterdam writ small. Most visitors
come for its historic Royal Delft porcelain
factory; others to pay homage to Vermeer,

EMILIE GORDENKERS INSIDER TIPS


The Princeton-born art historian and director of the Mauritshuis
museum has been living in The Hague for six years
The Hague has a
grandeur no other
Dutch city can
match. If you like
the Mauritshuis,
Id also recommend
our other gallery,
the Prins Willem V.
This is where our
collection originally
hung, but there
are now another 150 really good pieces
here. Its no distance at all: just a few steps
across the Binnenhof. Also close by is the
Museum Bredius, named after one of my
predecessors at the Mauritshuis who was
a great collector of Dutch painting and left
everything to this gallery.
Theres a lovely walk through the Haagse
Bos [Hague woods] to Palais Huis ten
Bosch, a wonderful 17th-century royal
palace. You should also stroll across the
Lange Voorhout, a spectacular L-shaped

square in the city centre, with trees dating


back to the 18th century. Theres a very
good restaurant here, Le Bistroquet, where
you can sit outside in summer.
Go north out of Lange Voorhout and
you come to the Denneweg, a lovely little
street full of antique shops and cafs. Theres
a lovely lunch place called Maxime here.
And Lodewieck is a casual caf I often visit;
Im a regular at Dendy, too. Im also very
partial to a Vietnamese restaurant called
Ngon, close to the old town hall in the main
shopping area. For a proper locals treat,
on Hoogstraat theres a great old butchers,
Dungelmann, where they make croquettes
that you eat at the counter. Theyre famous!
For a glamorous evening drink, head for
the bar at the Hotel Des Indes. And if you
like dance, check out the Nederlands Dans
Theater, one of the best contemporary dance
companies in the world. Theyre based in
The Hague and always worth seeing when
they perform at the Lucent Danstheater.

TOURIST
INFORMATION
FOR

Shangri-La

THE VICTIM
Actress Ronni Ancona, whose
childhood concept of sporting
achievement was to nd a
wealthy friend who had
a Swingball in her garden

THE CHALLENGE
Mastering the art of
dressage at Lucknam Park

CHARLIE IS GIVING ME THE EYE


but I dont think hes interested in me. Hes
handsome and distinguished, the strong
silent type, but already he looks bored
with this date. I want it to work so much
but Im nervous and I spout rubbish. Even
when I cut the small talk and what the
hell boldly straddle him, hes not thinking
its his lucky day. Instead hes shifting
uncomfortably from side to side and
seems incredulous (and with good reason)
that Im the irty 57kg I put on the form.
He is used to the pick of the bunch
and, quite frankly, Im not hacking it.
I wont be hacking at all at this rate. Im
just hanging on for dear life.
My little brain is overloaded with all the
things I need to remember: heels down,
toes to the front, head up, knees in, sit tall,
bum in seat, legs back. Its like an evil
nursery rhyme youd hear in a horror lm.
Will I be making Charlie do little pas
de deuxs and jets to a selection of classic
movie themes? I ask. After all, isnt
dressage just horsey ballet? I had tickets for
the dressage at the London Olympics and,
34 Cond Nast Traveller July 2014

while impressed and even moved by what


I saw, it didnt look that hard. Louise, my
instructor, tells me that learning to stay on a
horse without swearing might be a start.
Out of the corner of my eye, I can see
my two young daughters starting off on
their ride. Sitting comfortably astride their
ponies, they are laughing at Mummy and
an indignant Charlie attached to a lunge
rope. Its often said that riding, a bit
like skiing, is something that you should
start young when its easier to learn. More
importantly it satises the all-pervasive
middle-class obsession that our children
should be accomplished in as many skills as
possible. As we walk slowly round the ring,
it dawns on me that I cant actually do
anything. I sense that Charlie agrees.
Its a sobering thought knowing your
children are better than you at everything,
and 30 years earlier to boot. Besides, what
does all this riding lead to? Its innocent
enough when they start. Who isnt charmed
by a rosy-cheeked girl sitting on a fat little
pony? But, invariably, they get into the hard
stuff. Gymkhanas. Pony camp. Eventing.
Jumping. Dressage. Ill be driving a horsebox
along a country lane before I can say Puffa
jacket. Im suddenly Katharine Ross in
The Stepford Wives (only older and fatter),
running around in search of an ally who
doesnt like horses, only to nd that everyone
does and Im left sitting at the kitchen
table, drinking gin out of a size-seven-anda-half Cath Kidston Wellington boot.
I am brought round from my daydream
by Louise, my clever instructor, shouting
Leg on, leg on! Slowly, miraculously, she
is telling me things that actually make

High in the mountains of Tibet, this


reclusive monastery came to prominence in
the early 1930s, when a plane carrying
evacuees from an Indian outpost of the
British Empire was hijacked and own here.
Its name has since become a byword for
peaceful seclusion, while its extraordinary
anti-ageing properties place it high on the
bucket list of the Saga generation.

WHAT TO DO Life at Shangri-La can


move very slowly, but there are distractions:
a library of 19th-century tomes; a harpiscord
to play; contemplative discussion. Your rst
decade will y by. You may even have time
to work out how to turn off data-roaming.
WHAT TO PACK 1 A stiff upper lip
and your best moustache wax. 2 That
copy of Wolf Hall you always meant to read,
or the Game of Thrones box set

TRAVEL ADVICE Try not to fall in


love, as most inhabitants are much, much
older than they appear its a little like
Beverly Hills in that respect, but meeker and
with better dress sense. RICK JORDAN
sense. Im rising and falling in time, and
trotting over poles. Me, me! She even tells
me that I have a good seat. This is a rst.
Back at the stables and off Charlie,
unaccustomed to time in the saddle I am
now walking like Miley Cyrus stuck
mid-twerk. I nd that this is not great for
making a speedy escape in case Im asked
to muck out. How many other rst dates
are there where, however much you bond,
you end up shovelling their poo?
Lucknam Park (www.lucknampark.
co.uk; +44 1225 740 540) has doubles
from 360. A one-hour dressage lesson
costs from 105 per person

PHOTOGRAPHS: SHEILA ROCK; TOPHAM PHOTO

OUT OF MY
COMFORT ZONE

1953

The day I was Queen...

Or at least that is how it felt. The year was 1953


and it was Elizabeth IIs coronation. In similar pomp
and ceremony I was delivered in a large box tied
with a big sash bow. I was delicately lifted out from
layers of white tissue paper then carefully slipped
on with regal elegance. Everyones attention was
on the small nine-inch television dwarfed in its
walnut cabinet. That is until I swirled into the room.
To be continued...
www.oxfam.org.uk/vintage

WHERE TO STAY

Reviews of the month in The Maldives Somerset Cornwall + Livia Firth


EDITED BY PETER BROWNE

EXCLUSIVE FIRST REVIEW

NEW KID ON
THE REEF
Peter Browne checks out the latest
COMO hotel in the Maldives
It could have been so different. Had things
gone according to plan, this would have been
a slick Regent-branded hotel, the companys
rst in the Maldives. Then the Maldivian owner
went bankrupt and the project went belly-up.
Enter billionaire Malaysian businessman
and sharp-eyed property investor Ong Beng
Seng and his wife Christina Ong, the driving
force behind COMO hotels. They picked up
the ill-fated property, dusted it down and
came up with a workable plan, as they so

July 2014 Cond Nast Traveller 37

WHERE TO STAY

From left: a Beach Suite bedroom; the arrivals jetty;


entrance to a suite. Previous page, a birds-eye view

often do (Parrot Cay in the Turks &


Caicos and Point Yamu in Thailand were
both rescued from previous developers
by the Ongs, who then turned them into
serious big-hitters.).
The result is Maalifushi by COMO,
which comes to the end of its soft-opening
phase this month. A Maldivian sister hotel
to the much-admired Cocoa Island, the
latest addition bears a few residual signs
of Regent glossiness not readily associated
with Mrs Ongs style of eco-friendly
understatement. There are massive marble
baths, for example, and enormous mirrors
framed in heavy, dark wood.
In essence, however, the suites are
rened and pared back, with oak oors
and limed-light furniture, decorative
swathes of netting around the beds and
plunge pools with thatched salas. The
white-painted overwater versions are
streamlined and sharp-focused, bouncing
with light, their innity pools reecting
the blue-on-blue-on-blue of the lagoon
and sky. Beachfront suites are peaceful,
private places to hang out, with jungly
little gardens and paths leading to the
gently lapping shoreline. Where Cocoa
Island is very much aimed at couples,
Maalifushi is family-focused, with childfriendly beach picnics and snorkelling
trips on offer, and child-minding at the
kids club Play by COMO.
On my arrival on the island, dazzled by
the Equatorial light, I was shown around
by a gentle, understanding soul who
remarked how big the island is. During my
time on Maalifushi I came to appreciate
it for a great many things the robins-egg
blue sea, the immaculate reefs, the white
beaches scuttling with happy crustaceans,

38 Cond Nast Traveller July 2014

the temple of a spa but denitely not for


its size, a fair percentage of which is given
over to the 300-odd staff necessary to run
a professional outt such as this.
But perhaps no other island smells as
good. COMO is famous for its holistic
Shambhala Spas, and its own-brand potions
are distributed in tiny bottles in the guest
bathrooms and no doubt in the staff
quarters, too, because every encounter on
the island comes with a waft of eucalyptus
or camphor or bergamot, leaving an
olfactory impression of calm goodwill.

WE WALKED THE
TREE-LINED STREETS
TO A GARDEN CAFE.
IT FELT LIKE ID VISITED
A VILLAGE IN KERALA
FOR THE MORNING
Reinforcing this seductive illusion of a
paradisiacal idyll is a landscaped tropical
Narnia of palms and hibiscus and spongy
undergrowth running along the islands
spine, a blessedly cool, gently winding,
white-sand path. Youd never guess there
are rooms on either side, crouching behind
high walls, or that both east- and westfacing shores are a just few metres away.
Every day, small groups of women in
a curious uniform of white burkas and
baseball caps sweep the beaches and paths
clear of coral and leaves. Members of a
local womens institute, they are ferried
back and forth from Guraidhoo, the nearest
inhabited island. I went across with Nasih
Ahmed, a young sherman who guides at
the hotels watersports centre, on a Local
Island Cultural Excursion (there are eight

activities to choose from each day). We


walked the tree-lined streets past brightly
painted schools, a lone police station
(unnecessary, Ahmed pointed out, as
there is no crime) and mosques, one more
than a century old, before stopping to
watch kids play basketball and to catch
up with Ahmeds friends over an Italian
coffee at a garden caf. It felt like Id
visited a village in Kerala for the morning.
Local shermen supply the chefs at
Maalifushi, who do superb things with
red snapper and lagoon lobster, and
the fragrant curry of reef sh in tomato,
coconut and ramba leaf is sensational. The
Wagyu beef striploin with a walnut-pesto
sauce, grilled endive and charred onions
would put any New York steakhouse to
shame. Theres also a sushi restaurant and
a COMO Shambhala spa menu delivering
food high in living enzymes.
But its really the people most guests
will remember. A mix of enthusiastic
newbies and experienced staff from
other COMO properties (its company
policy to move workers around), they
are without exception kind, professional
and immensely proud of this project
which even by early indications shows
every sign of becoming the best new
family hotel in the Maldives.

BOOK IT
Bailey Robinson (+44 1488 689700; www.
baileyrobinson.com) offers seven nights
for the price of ve, from 2,665 per person,
including B&B accommodation in a Beach
Suite, direct ights to Mal with British
Airways and local transfers. Valid until 25
December 2014. Book 45 days in advance
to receive US$150 resort credit per room

PHOTOGRAPHS: PETER BROWNE

WHERE TO STAY

BED-HOPPING WITH LIVIA FIRTH


The London-based Italian eco activist and wife of Colin Firth tells Lisa Grainger about her star hotels

 REKERO CAMP,

MASAI MARA, KENYA


This old-fashioned camp is
basic but has everything you
need. If you want a shower,
staff will empty a bucket of hot
water into the cylinder above
your head. Dinners are delicious
salads and casseroles. And it
really is wild all around; leave
your tent at night and you
might get eaten by a lion.
www.asiliaafrica.com. Doubles
from about 665 full board

ITS WORTH
GOING TO MILAN
JUST TO HAVE
THE BLACK COD
IN MISO SOUP
AT ZERO

Milan is a very small city and you either


end up in the posh centre, surrounded by
the sort of Milanese people I dont really
like, or Tortona, the more laid-back artistic
bit, where the Nhow is. It is modern,
has friendly staff and isnt far from the
Salone del Mobile and one of my favourite
restaurants in the world, Zero. www.
nhow-hotels.com. Doubles from about 90

 BELMOND GRAND HOTEL

TIMEO, TAORMINA, SICILY


The location is incredible, right at the top
of the town, with an enormous terrace so
you see Etna and the bay below. It reminds
me of the Lampedusa novel The Leopard
and a world that almost doesnt exist
any more, one with charm. www.grand
hoteltimeo.com. Doubles from about 510

 SKIATHOS PRINCESS HOTEL, GREECE


When Colin was lming Mamma Mia!, this is
where we stayed. The kids thought it was paradise.
Its a big resort, with a beach, all the seaside sports
you could dream of, a beautiful swimming pool
and buffets for breakfast, lunch and dinner, which
of course children love. First, all they wanted was
cake, then they discovered the omelette bar,
where you could order whatever ingredients you
fancied. Sometimes its the simplest things that
make everyone happy. www.skiathosprincess.com.
Doubles from about 130

Livia Firth is a Global Ambassador for Oxfam

 FOUR SEASONS HOTEL LOS

ANGELES AT BEVERLY HILLS


We always stay here in Oscars season
and although its plush and very
comfortable, it still feels like a home. The
rooms arent amazing but the beds are
incredibly soft and the bathrooms are
beautiful. The Italian restaurant Culina does
the most delicious Sunday brunch, with
roasts and cakes to die for. www.four
seasons.com. Doubles from about 335

PHOTOGRAPH: FRANCESCA FAGO

NO THANKS!
I hate it when hotels change
the soap every day and
replace your towel, even if
you hang it up. Its insanely
wasteful. They should copy
Palazzina G, Venice and put
soap in a rellable bottle.

40 Cond Nast Traveller July 2014

 NHOW HOTEL, MILAN

After a few days on Little Cayman,


youll be on rst name terms with
the entire population.
Little Cayman is the smallest of the three Cayman Islands, with a
population of just 150, Caymanians are so friendly and welcoming
that after a few days exploring the island youll have probably met
them all. No wonder so many people return to see old friends.
caymanislands.co.uk

CAYMAN
CONCIERGE

Let us help you plan your visit? )RUIUHHLPSDUWLDODGYLFHFDOORXUWRXULVWRIFHRQ020 7491 7771 RIFHKRXUV RUHPDLOconcierge@caymanislands.co.uk

WHERE TO STAY
the original Pigs will recognise the Piggy
bits (crackling with apple sauce; homesmoked ham) to nibble on, and theres a
salad section called literally picked this
morning. Mains are meat-heavy: rabbit
comes Kentucky fried, and The Pigs
Extraordinary Bath Chap is a succulent
whole pig cheek covered in crispy skin.
The wine menu is impressive and mostly
under 50 (although theres plenty for
those with plastic to ex), with a whole
section dedicated to interesting organics
and biodynamics. The attitude-free
sommeliers will guide you through it.
WHO GOES THERE? With Bath seven
miles and Bristol 12 miles away, this is
a great place for city folk to come and
collapse, even just for an evening drink.
The exceptional Sunday lunch is a draw
for local families. Foodies and the ecominded will like the whole Pig philosophy.
WE LIKE The attitude: the air is fresh
inside and out. Staff are positive, attentive
and make you feel at home instantly.
WE DONT LIKE It could do with a
few extras such as iPod docks, and
a slightly more generous hand with the
bathroom goodies would go a long way.

THE WEEKENDER

THE PIG NEAR BATH


PENSFORD, SOMERSET

BEHIND THE SCENES Robin Hutson,


mastermind of the original Hotel du Vin
group and latterly The Pig in the New
Forest and Southamptons Pig in the Wall,
is the brains behind the unpretentious,
42 Cond Nast Traveller July 2014

fun ethos. The head gardener, Hutsons


son Ollie, has reared every seedling
with the care of a parent (theres even
a hospital for house plants). As with the
other, deeply successful Pigs, this place
is pitched to the populace; its a brilliant
country-house experience for everyone.
SLEEP All 29 rooms are big and have
lovely country or garden views. The
best of them is The Hide, a two-storey
cottage in the garden overlooking the
deer park. This is stripped-back luxe,
nothing cluttered or fussy. Beds are huge
and made up with crisp white cotton
sheets; bathrooms have roll-top baths
and generous showers.
EAT Painted in muted greeny-greys, the
restaurant is part dining room and part
greenhouse, with tiny pots of carefully
labelled herbs on every available surface.
The 25-mile-radius menu has a map
of local producers, and every plate has
something from the garden on it. Fans of

WHILE YOURE HERE


Ask for a tour of the garden and youll want
to grow your own edible chrysanthemums.
Make friends with the Colombian blacktail
hens and the pet miniature pigs. Have a
massage with Bamford products in one of
the two Potting Shed treatment rooms. Take
a stroll through the Stanton Drew stone
circle. Visit lovely Wells for its cathedral
and produce-perfect Saturday market, or
Bath for the Thermae Bath Spa, Bertinet
cookery school and brilliant independent
shops such as Vintage to Vogue.

PHOTOGRAPH: STUART MOODY

WHAT IS IT? A large Georgian house


in the Mendip Hills, once the lodge to
an even grander mansion, the romantic
ruins of which can still been seen on the
estate. Theres a walled kitchen garden
Queen Victoria would be proud of, and
an 80-strong herd of deer. Previously a
very formal hotel, its latest incarnation is
as a relaxed restaurant with rooms. The
decor is mock-Victorian, with prints and
lithographs everywhere, trompe loeil
bookcases, even a damp patch painted
on the ceiling. Portraits of someone
elses ancestors and papier-mch antlers
on the walls are all part of the joke.
The twinkling bar hums with possibility;
cheerful and attentive staff in jeans, pink
shirts and ties will bring you exactly
what you want, however you want it.

CONTACT +44 1761 490490; www.the


pighotel.com. Doubles from 139; from
169 at weekends JOANNA WEINBERG

T RAVELLER PROM OT ION

UP & AWAY
The glamour of travel is back Heathrow launches its new and exclusive Personal Shopping service
one are the days of a dash around the West End ahead of
an early-morning ight, gathering in haste all the necessities
that being tight on time has prevented you buying in
advance. From now on, you can project an image of calm
and collectiveness as Heathrow has cleverly adapted to the reality
of modern travellers all over the world and commissioned an
exclusive and complimentary personal shopping service.

STILL LIFE IMAGE: SUDHIR PITHWA

Clockwise from top:


Cartier Jeanne Toussaint
Bag in burgundy; Cartier
La Panthre scarf; Bally
red calf suede shoes;
Smythson Continental
purse; Burberry luggage
tag; Omega De Ville
Chronograph watch;
Smythson iPad case; Ray
Ban Justin sunglasses;
Bulgari sunglasses; Cartier
Juste un Clou bracelet

Encompassing everything from fashion to beauty and technology,


the departure lounge shopping at Heathrow is second-to-none.

Whether it be the latest Mulberry tote or Karl Lagerfelds


newest creation for Chanel that tugs your desire, the trained
and multilingual stylists specialise in deciphering exactly what
you need, making the process bespoke to each traveller.
Brief them in advance or request their services when you have
passed security. Whether you are on the rst or last ight, make
sure you check in with the team the next time you y.
For more information visit heathrow.com/stylist

WHERE TO STAY

SALLY SHALAMS GREAT BRITISH BREAKS


This month, our happy wanderer roams from Cornwall to Cumbria in
search of outdoor eating and drinking for crazy days when the sun shines

he sun shrinks and shadows deepen in


the sand dunes hemming Porthcurnick
Beach on Cornwalls Roseland Peninsula.
A sea breeze picks up, whipping hair across
faces and sending picnic plates skittering along
a big, shared table. This is feast night at The
Hidden Hut. A simple beach caf by day (just
a serving hatch, with tables and chairs in the
dunes), its the setting for evening gatherings
that feel impromptu but are in fact ticketed
and sell out fast. I sit among friendly strangers
clutching BYO beers as night falls and blankets
are pulled from bags so we can linger in the
icker of candlelight beneath a starlit canopy
of sky. If there is a better way to eat seafood
paella in summer, Id like to know.
The same lane that winds down to this littoral
pop-up leads to both The Rosevine hotel (doubles
from 175) and the Driftwood (doubles from
180), whose restaurant has a Michelin star.
What luck is that? When youre done beach-feasting
with the locals (no fools, the Cornish, they come
from all corners of the county), simply retreat to
your coastal boutique hideaway.
Tales of the riverbank are served with the seafood
at the beautiful, rustic Philleigh Way cookery
school, also on the Roseland Peninsula. Foodie
treats include foraging in the woods with Thom
Hunt from the Channel 4 series Hughs Three
Hungry Boys, and a course called Cornwall in a
Day which covers everything from dressing crab
to splitting milk for clotted cream; but its the
kick of cooking mussels beside the Fal River with
Cornish chef George Pascoe that will completely
hook you on alfresco living. The classes can, and
very often do, end at The Roseland Inn, or with

44 Cond Nast Traveller July 2014

a G&T on the terrace of The Idle Rocks hotel


in St Mawes (doubles from 180), whose salty
waterfront charms rival the northerly pull of
Padstow. Scoop up cashmere to layer against
the chill night air from Onda on Victory Hill,
probably the best boutique west of Winchester,
or catch a ferry to Falmouth for Finisterre, where
an Aussie surfer dude on shop duty patiently
assisted a friend and me with selecting an indecently
large haul of the only sweatshirts weve ever
wanted to be seen in.
I remember once, at The Sun Inn (doubles
from 99) in Kirkby Lonsdale, on the cusp of
Cumbria and the Yorkshire Dales, I was urged
to take my glass of pink Taittinger (the rst clue to
the fabulous dinner which followed) through the
little churchyard next door to a spot known as
Ruskins View. Seated on a bench above the banks
of the Lune, I watched the river meander below,
clear as anything, hills and pastureland as far as
the eye could see. Next day, opposite the market
square, I discovered the fragrant connes of
the Bath House Shop, packed with pretty night
things, thick towels,
and bath oils and soaps
so delicate as to belie
their humble origins in
a grain store in Sedbergh.
Next time I go, I want
to stay at the tiny Church
Brow Cottage run by
the Vivat Trust (from
453 for three nights),
so I can waft about the
garden in a satin nightdress
before breakfast.

2014 Hilton Worldwide

THE
STORIES
BEGIN
HERE

NEW YORK
CHICAGO
GRAND WAILEA
THE BOULDERS
DUBAI
ARIZONA BILTMORE
BERLIN
JERUSALEM
PUERTO RICO
SHANGHAI
AMSTERDAM
BEIJING
ORLANDO
ROME CAVALIERI
JEDDAH
KEY WEST
NAPLES
PARK CITY
PANAMA
BOCA RATON
EDINBURGH
RAS AL KHAIMAH
LA QUINTA RESORT & CLUB
TRIANON PALACE VERSAILLES
THE ROOSEVELT NEW ORLEANS

WA L D O R FASTO R I A .CO M / T H E STO R I E S

A LETTER FROM

Exploring the land of the Maoris can be fraught with danger but only if you have the
right tour guide, as local author Robert Glancy discovers. Illustration by Sarah Hanson

ur camper van broke


down on the way to Jacks
place. Luay and I stared
intensely at the engine,
holding the pose for just a moment
before laughing. We knew nothing
about engines. Luckily, a passer-by
towed us to our destination. Half
brick, half wood, it looked as if
two houses had own across the
elds and stuck together.
The boyfriend of my friend
Carol, Jack had a warm nature,
a fast smile, and a hard body
built by years of casual labouring
jobs. He proved to be true to his
name, a Jack-of-all-trades, quickly
xing the van and then inviting
us on the inaugural outing of his
latest venture, Walks With Jack,
a tour of the local area.
Before leaving, we caught up
with Carol, drank some Lion
Red beers, and Jack introduced us
to his dad, who was watching
Coronation Street. Jack proudly
showed us his ancestral wall.
Intricate paintings of Maori
warriors glared down at us; below
them, relatives in 1950s suits and
dresses smiled from framed
photographs; nally, at eye level,
curling snapshots of Jack with
his children and his parents were
tacked to the wall. After another
round of beers, we headed off.
Carol decided not to come, and
Jacks dad wished us luck.
We walked along a beach lined
with wooden shacks interrupted
in places by new glass houses
shining like ice cubes. All was well
until an hour into the walk when
46 Cond Nast Traveller July 2014

Jack led us up a precipice that


only crampon-wielding experts
should tackle. Sweating and woozy,
I gripped on, regretting the beers,
wondering why Id agreed to
do this, picturing my dead body
oating in the waters below. My
fear was reected in Luays face
as he panted, At least well die at
a beautiful beach.
After a hot hour of panic, we
descended to a rocky bay where
Jack said he would catch us some
kina. Its a spiky sea urchin, he told
us, a rare delicacy. He dived into the
ocean, a knife between his teeth.
All very impressive, until I noticed
Jack being beaten against the rocks
by the waves, then disappearing

were missing and he didnt have


a full deck of toes. At this rate of
attrition, I wasnt sure how many
walks Jack had left in him.
But, as sometimes happens, the
day turned. Jack tore off a strip
of aloe vera, smearing sap onto
his wounds, slowing the ow of
blood. Ocean and sky reected
each others nest blues, and fears
of plunging to my death faded as
we basked on the rocks.
Jack said scientists believe
New Zealand bubbled up from
under the water, boiling into
existence, though legend claims
the god Maui magically shed
up the North Island. Jacks walk
was treacherous, but his talk was

As sometimes happens, the day turned. Jack


tore off a strip of aloe vera, smearing
sap onto his wounds, slowing the ow of blood.
Fears of plunging to my death faded
beneath the surface for so long that
a bad thought bubbled out of my
mouth: Is Jack dead? As if in reply,
he shot back up out of the water,
brandishing a blood-soaked kina.
Jack had a bad gash on his mouth
and his thumb was cut open, as
bright and wide as sliced melon.
I suggested we should visit A&E,
but Jack just cracked open the kina
and offered us the frilly slug of
meat within. Luay and I winced at
its richness, sharing nervous glances
as Jacks blood pooled in amongst
the rocks. It wasnt the rst thing he
had gifted to the ocean: ngertips

enchanting. Dont matter the


wars, squabbles and lies, he told
us. This lands more powerful
than all of us and all of that.
Then he passed me something,
For your mates, he said. I studied
the postcard of a stickman walking
over the words Walks With Jack,
thinking how completely it failed
to capture both the terror and
tranquillity of the experience.
Robert Glancys comic novel
Terms & Conditions is out now,
published by Bloomsbury
(12.99, eBook 10.99)

NEIGHBOURHOOD ON THE UP
Set near the intersection of four railway lines hence the name this western district of
WORDS KAREN BURSHTEIN

Clockwise from above: Amani Earls, one of The Junctions many


independent coffee shops; Mjlk, which specialises in Scandi-Japanese
design; Bunners vegan and gluten-free bakery; husband-and-wife
team John Baker and Juli Daoust, who opened Mjlk in 2009; bottles
of Boylan soda at Cut The Cheese; the tiled bar at Bricco

48 Cond Nast Traveller July 2014

The Junction, Toronto


Canadas largest city is a magnet for lovers of architectural salvage and artisan coffee
EAT
Bricco is the new enoteca
from local boy Eric Gennaro,
former sommelier at the
citys Crush Wine Bar. The
glass-fronted faade and
Scandi-chic, mid-century
interiors Gennaro sourced
pieces around town and
from Scandinavia are as
comforting as the Italian
food, which includes Nova
Scotia scallops with bacon
sofrito and ricotta ravioli.
The design incorporates
art installations by Brothers
Dressler and a stunning
tiled bar. +1 416 901
4536; www.briccowinebar.
com. Dinner about 65 for
two with wine
 The Passenger has
the same owners as nearby
veggie restaurant The
Beet, but is not cut from
the same hippy cloth. Its
look is slightly distressed
Art Deco and there are
bistro favourites such as
steak frites and mussels
on the menu, as well as a
must-try starter platter
that follows the current
trend for Fifties-style hors
doeuvres with devilled
eggs and bacon-wrapped
dates. The impressive
classic cocktail menu
includes a take on the
Prohibition-era Sidecar.
+1 416 762 0777; www.
thepassenger.co. Dinner
about 45 for two with beer

DRINK
Gastropub Indie Ale House
serves beers brewed in
small batches using highquality ingredients. There

are no lagers or pilsners


here, only ales: sample
a hard-to-nd Belgian
Sour or Double IPA. The
industrial decor features
a pressed-tin ceiling and
stripped brick walls, with
furnishings from nearby
salvage stores Smash
and Forever Interiors.
+1 416 760 9691; www.
indiealehouse.com
 Run by brothers Ben
and Jack Wilkinson, the
tiny Hole In The Wall
bar is a little scruffy but
loaded with charm. Go
for one of the 10 craft
beers or pick from the
75-strong whiskey list to
wash down burgers made
from Mennonite beef, or
the fabulous buck-a-shuck
oysters, available every
Tuesday. There is live
music ve nights a week,
but the sound level never
gets so loud you cant
discuss ancient Zulu beer
pots or Louis XVI doorknobs
from the Junctions
reclamation shops. +1 647
350 3564; www.thehole
inthewallto.com

brined or cured meats and


special marinades. +1 416
769 6989; www.locomotive
coffee.com
 Sitting on authentic
Eames chairs (rescued by
owner Chris Brown from
a basement at Torontos
Trinity College), Full
Stop customers tap on
their computers in unison
while munching on
curried apple-bran muffins.
Although the interior is
great (one wall has a
massive vinyl stencil of an
airplane; another features
a Lego installation), the
outdoor terrace is the big
draw on sunny days. 2948
Dundas Street West
 You might be tempted
to bypass Crema Coffee
Co, as its logo looks
slightly corporate, generic
and out of place among
The Junctions other
indie cafs. But inside,
everything is groovy, its
espresso is perhaps the
best on the strip, and the
Glory Hole doughnuts are
legendary. +1 416 767
3131; www.cremacoffee.ca

CAFFEINE HIT
Locomotive is one of
several excellent espresso
bars in the neighbourhood,
and its owners have
embraced the railway
theme of The Junctions
history, with a reclaimed
buffet-car counter, and a
huge cowcatcher by the
door. Along with expertly
brewed coffee, they make
glorious sandwiches using

SNACK
Ashley Wittig and Kevin
MacAllister started by
selling vegan brownies
and cookies at farmers
markets, before opening
the pocket-sized Bunners.
While the food-sensitive
were delighted about
the gluten-, egg-, dairy-,
nut- and soy-free baked
goods, Bunners sticky

THE JUNCTION DESIGN CRAWL, WHICH TAKES


PLACE DURING THE SUMMER SOLSTICE FESTIVAL.
STORES INVOLVED ARE ILLUMINATED WITH
WHITE LANTERNS SO THAT VISITORS CAN BE GUIDED
BY THE LIGHT TO INNOVATIVE DESIGN DISPLAYS, ONEOF-A-KIND INSTALLATIONS AND GREAT LIVE BANDS
DONT
MISS

NEIGHBOURHOOD ON THE UP The Junction, Toronto


cinnamon buns with vegan
buttercream frosting
have had pro-gluten eaters
queuing up, too. The
just-released cookbook
reveals all their secrets.
+1 647 352 2975;
www.bunners.ca
 Delight makes handpainted organic Fair Trade
chocolates as pretty as
the bijou space in which
theyre sold. Seasonal,
local ingredients are used;
try the dark chocolate
truffles with Quebec blue
cheese lling (theres
an ice-cream, too) and
spiced Ontario plum.
+1 416 760 9995;
www.delightchocolate.ca

SHOP
As much a gallery as
retail space, Smashs
showroom of slightly offkilter, repurposed objects
has a distinctly steampunk
avour. The centrepiece
is an oversized, carved
banquet table topped with
old lab beakers, tarnished
silver trays and a medicalschool dissection dummy.
You can pick up anything
from an 18th-century desk
with secret compartments
to a gutted Eero Aarnio
ball chair. Smash hosts
art parties and basement
supperclub events using
rare silverware and china
from the store. +1 416
762 3113; www.smash.to
 Post and Beam is a
treasure-trove of unusual
reclaimed architectural
details and xtures. Doug
Killaly sources vintage bath
taps, stained glass and
early-20th-century park
benches, making this a key
destination for the citys
interior decorators. +1 416
913 4243; www.pandb.ca
 Wearing his own pair
of original 1980s glasses,
owner Jordan Paul is
Opticianados best house
model. The store sells
used and new specs, along
with some of the coolest
vintage frames in North
50 Cond Nast Traveller July 2014

America, including rare


1960s Persols (beloved by
JFK) as well as regulation
1950s NHS frames. Newer
labels include Yellows
Plus and Savile Row. The
boutique also holds
monthly concerts by local
musicians. +1 416 604
2020; www.opticianado.com
 Husband and wife John
Baker and Juli Dauost
set up their design store
Mjlk with its considered
collection of Scandinavian
and Japanese pieces after
noticing the inuence
the two aesthetics have
on each other. The couple
will take time to talk stock
with you, pointing out
favourites such as a Pia
Wallen cross blanket or a
tea ceremony by Japanese
ceramist Masanobu Ando.
+ 1 416 551 9853; www.
store.mjolk.ca
 Among the Junction
fashion boutiques vying
for attention, Gerhard
Supply menswear stands
out. Owner Langton
Willmss streamlined
space stocks Philip Sparks
tailored Oxford shirts,
slim 18 Waits trousers and
other essentials for the
male creative. Enduring
style, high quality and
Made in Toronto (except
for the Italian and Spanish
handmade shoes) are
the stores leitmotivs.
+1 416 797 1290; www.
gerhardsupply.com

SLEEP
The Drake will be a 20minute bike-ride away when
the West Toronto Railpath
extension opens in 2016.
In the meantime, cab it to
this bohemian hotel (and
curated cultural mini-plex),
where rooms are called
crashpads, theres a yearround roof garden and
William Morris wallpaper
lines the corridors. +1 416
531 5042; www.thedrakehotel.ca. Doubles from 100

My JUNCTION
Heather Phillips

PHOTOGRAPHS: NICK KOZAK; ALEX MAXIM;


RUSSELL STYLES; ANDREW WILLIAMSON

CO-OWNER OF
ARTICULATIONS, AN ART
STORE AND GALLERY
Thanks to the out-of-the-way geography
of this neighbourhood and because
its off the subway line, the architecture
has been preserved theres no teardowns and big builds. In the seven years Ive lived here, Ive seen
the landscape change from cheque-cashing stores and usedappliance places to an overload of espresso bars and a locavore
supermarket called Sweet Potato. Its a creative hub with lots of
collaborations: Metropolis Living did the great liquor sign at
Playa Cabana Cantina. After a night at Indie Ale House,
everyone heads to Cut The Cheese for grilled cheese
sandwiches and a ketchup-avour Breakfast Porter using Indies
ale recipe. Were all very incestuous. I also love the Junction
Auctioneers night at the Mechanics Hall, and at Keele and
Dundas there are three great antique shops: Mr Antico,
Williams and The Art Of Demolition. www.articulations.ca

This page, clockwise from top left: Bay Cooper bow ties at the
Gerhard Supply boutique; vintage lighting, map and furniture
at Smash; the Junction Night Market, which takes place on a
train platform; the Full Stop coffee shop; baseball pennants at
Smash. Opposite, clockwise from top: a display at Mjlk; local
craft beer; the beer list at the Indie Ale House

STYLE FILE

BY FIONA LINTOTT
PLUS Jewellery Beauty Mens & On the scene

I PRESENT TO YOU...Florence Knight


The 28-year-old star
chef setting the London
restaurant scene alight
is currently holding
court at Sohos deeply
popular Italian-style
hotspot Polpetto.

ON HEALTH

ON TRAVEL

I have a very varied diet and Im a big grazer. I try


to eat as many raw fruit and vegetables as I can,
but if Im honest this doesnt always happen. My
comfort food is a bowl of sticky toffee pudding and
custard, preferably eaten at a large table with my
family. I work very long hours but when I get the
chance I go to the Sisley spa in Claridges; it makes
a big difference to
my skin. I love the
Sisley Eye Contour
Mask and Sisleyouth
moisturiser. When I
travel, in-ight food is
a real challenge. I take
fennel tea bags and
dried fruit with me.

I spent my honeymoon at the


elegant Pavillon de la Reine in Paris:
it was also the rst hotel my husband
took me to. Last summer, we stayed
at the gorgeous Masseria Montelauro,
above, in Otranto, Italy. It is a very
peaceful place with excellent food.

ON RESTAURANTS
A bad meal can make or break your
experience of a city. The places I like are
all tiny, not fancy and the chefs cook
seasonal, simple dishes. They include
Caff dei Cioppi, left, in Paris, Alle Testiere
in Venice and Buvette, New York.

Neoprene swimsuit,
250, Tommy Hilger
(www.tommy.com)

Beach-side buzz
This summer Im heading to the
all-white, hilltop town of Vejer in
southern Spain and then on to
Tarifa where I plan to learn how
to kitesurf. Ill be staying at the
bright-blue Hotel Arte Vida and
have hired a Mini so I need to
pack light and must remember
to download Emilana Torrinis
crazy, happy track Jungle Drum
for the journey. Heres whats
going in my suitcase

Maria Lemos is one of those


dynamic people who make
you think: what have I been
doing with all my time? She
had just returned from Kyoto,
Japan when I met her in her
kooky boutique on Chiltern
Street in London. She stocks
designers that will transport
you far beyond the cool
surroundings. Ill be returning
for hand-cut paper works by
Californian Tahiti Pehrson,
Dosas elegant eco-chic
pieces, above, and Rachel
Comeys swimwear, as well as
the strangely hypnotic
paperweights from Welsh
company Hafod Grange.

Cotton jumper, 125,


Bella Freud (www.
bellafreud.com)

ILLUSTRATION: HANNAH GEORGE PHOTOGRAPHS:


HAUKE DRESSLER/LOOK; H DEL OLMO/COTE SUD/BASSET IMAGES

SHOP WATCH Mouki Mou

Im back from...Jamaica
I spent four days summoning the courage to join the jumpers
off a 20-metre cliff into the sea. This is what you do at The
Caves hotel: plunge into the ocean from a great height,
then dry off in the sunshine, and repeat. My boyfriend and I
had a room called Buttery, which was one of 12, a pale-blue
hut with a sunny-yellow interior. A picture of Bob Marley
hung over the not-so-mini minibar and early each morning we
threw open the shutters to watch the stingrays,
named George and Jennifer, swimming past.
Meals were refreshingly simple, with just two
choices, and it was impossible not to add the local
Busha Brownes Spicy Jerk Sauce at breakfast as
well as dinner. At night we went to the cave bar
and drank every avour of rum by candlelight.

Body beautiful: La Rserve


No other little white pot can create such hysteria and
envy: Crme de la Mer is the skincare equivalent of
a superyacht. The brands only dedicated spa is at
La Rserve, overlooking the sea in the pine-scented
French village of Ramatuelle. Express facials are
available in London, but if you love the sun as much
as I do, this is the place where it all makes sense. Yes,
its indulgent, but I felt like a human millefeuille while
my skin was turned as soft as butter with layer upon Body sun lotion,
layer of lovely lotions. I also tried the Soleil de la Mer 65, Soleil de la
suncare range, which is a real game changer; unlike
Mer (www.creme
other gloopy creams, it is rich and delicious.
delamer.co.uk)

Halsy shorts, 126, MiH


(www.mih-jeans.co.uk)

Bloomsbury bag,
from 2,495, Burberry
(www.burberry.com)

Sailor nail varnish, 22,


Dior (www.dior.com)

Leather sandals, 120,


Ancient Greek Sandals (www.
ancient-greek-sandals.com)

July 2014 Cond Nast Traveller 53

STYLE FILE

PLAY TO THE GALLERY

Oval Mit Kreisen,


created from Kandinskys
sketch 3 Entwrfe Fr
Anhnger (3 Designs
For A Pendant)

FROM RUSSIA WITH LOVE

Top, Complexit Simple,


inspired by (above)
Kandinskys Complexit
Simple (Ambiguit).
This picture, Schweben
(Floating)

54 Cond Nast Traveller July 2014

Occasionally the jewellery world throws up a surprise such as the fact


that its possible to chip a diamond or that a red sapphire is actually a
ruby. Or that Wassily Kandinsky designed jewellery. Yes, the Russian
Expressionist painter, arguably one of the most important artists of the
early 20th century, created a jewellery collection in the early 1900s. The
story begins in 1957 when Gabriele Mnter, one-time ance of
Kandinsky, donated her paintings and drawings by the Blue Rider group of
artists (of which Kandinsky was one) to the Lenbachhaus museum in
Munich, having concealed and protected the works with considerable
danger to her own life during World War II. They included sketches by
Kandinsky for jewellery, thought to have been collated during a period
of extensive travel across Europe to the Netherlands, Berlin, Odessa,
Paris, Tunis, Dresden and Rapallo which undoubtedly inuenced and
coloured his work. The signicance of the drawings was not fully appreciated
until 1969 when the museum director rediscovered them and enlisted the
help of two goldsmiths, Max Pollinger and Cornelia Roethel, to
manufacture the pieces. An additional selection of works based
on Kandinskys paintings and approved by his widow Nina were
also crafted in Munich by the pair. But then the collection
largely disappeared again, scattered across Germany and
Switzerland, until 14 pieces were acquired at auction by
Sam Loxton of London jewellery dealers Lucas
Rarities. They will go on show (and on sale) at the
Art Antiques London show from 11 to 18 June.
Loxton hopes that a Kandinsky collector will
buy the collection in its entirety and that after such
a journey the pieces will not be separated. Which is not
inconceivable: Kandinsky is credited with being the rst
modern abstract painter, and essentially this jewellery
falls into that bracket, too precious abstract objects
to hang on the body rather than on a wall.

Above, Umgebung, from


(top) 1936s Environment. Below,
Vignette Im Gelb Und Schwarz,
from Unregelmiges Mit
Landschaftlichen Elementen
(Irregular with Landscape Elements)

PHOTOGRAPHS: CULTURE-IMAGES/LEBRECHT; STADTISCHE GALERIE IM LENBACHHAUS UND KUNSTBAU, MUNCHEN; THE ART ARCHIVE/
THE SOLOMON R GUGGENHEIM FOUNDATION/ART RESOURCE, NY/THE SOLOMON R GUGGENHEIM MUSEUM, NEW YORK, NY, USA

Inspired by sketches made by the artist Kandinsky during


his European odyssey, these abstract pieces have been on quite a journey, says Jessica Diamond

STYLE FILE
Which hair products do you use?
I get my hair dyed a lot. I have a very
good colourist: Christophe Robin at Le
Meurice in Paris. I love him and his
products. To keep it healthy and shiny,
I use Opalis La Crme conditioner.

Who has given you the best


beauty advice?
It didnt come from my mother or
my grandmother, as you might
expect one day my father told me:
Pretend to be beautiful.

What is your signature nail colour?


I like bright nails paired with bright lips. Im a fan
of the ashy shades from American Apparel.

Your favourite scent?


It depends. I am not faithful
to one perfume in particular. I
like to change; sometimes
I do it on purpose before
playing a new character. I
wore Prada Infusion dIris for
Mission: Impossible - Ghost
Protocol. I spray it on my
clothes. I dont like it on my
skin, except on the neckline
for special occasions. I have
a strong relationship with
fragrance in general. It can
be a perfume in the air,
the smell of grass, the scent
of falling rain. Right now
I am wearing Prada Candy
Florale: it reminds me of
owers blooming.

Prada Candy
Florale, 31,
Prada (+44 20
7494 6220).
Top left, La Crme
conditioner,
about 40, Opalis
(www.opalis
paris.com)

SOMETIMES I LIKE TO
CHANGE MY PERFUME
BEFORE PLAYING A
NEW CHARACTER

BEAUTY KIT: LEA SEYDOUX ON HER TRAVELS


Have you discovered any great beauty
nds while travelling?
French pharmacies remain the best places in the
world to buy beauty products. I could spend a
lot of time browsing in any of them.

Which spa do you love?


I like to relax by having massages. I
especially adore the spa at Les
Sources de Caudalie near Bordeaux.

Which are your top


skincare brands?

Where is your favourite


sunny destination?

I am crazy about oils and keeping my


skin hydrated. I love La Roche-Posay
and the Puressentiel products, which
are made out of essential oils. I prefer
non-perfumed creams and balms.

My mother has a guesthouse on


Gore Island, Senegal, called Asao.
It is a very wild island 20 minutes
from the coast in a longboat. She
has been living there for a long time
and I have lovely memories of it as a
child. Because my skin is rather pale,
I dont sunbathe a lot, but when I do
I use La Roche-Posay Anthelios
Gel-Crme Toucher Sec SPF50.

How do you get your skin and


body beach-ready?
As Im fond of good food, I play sports all
year round. I do multiple classes with my
coach and run about seven kilometres a
day. I dont like diets; I just love eating.
The best way to be healthy is to stay t.
56 Cond Nast Traveller July 2014

Hydreane Legere Moisturising Cream,


14.50, La Roche-Posay at Boots
(www.boots.com)

High Precision
Retouch concealer,
23, Giorgio Armani
(www.armanibeauty.
co.uk). Pur Couture
lipstick, 25, YSL
(www.yslbeauty.co.
uk). Eight Hour Cream,
26, Elizabeth
Arden at Boots
(www.boots.com)

What is your skincare


routine when you y?
I dont usually wear make-up. I
spray water on my face with a
little atomiser that I always carry
with me on ights. To keep up
appearances, I apply a bit of red
lipstick on my cheeks to give me a fresh look.
I usually take YSL Pur Couture lipstick, an
Armani concealer and Elizabeth Arden Eight
Hour Cream, which I use as a lip balm.

PHOTOGRAPH: FRED MEYLAN/H7K/JME PHOTO

The actress who won the Palme dOr for Blue is the Warmest Colour shares her secrets

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Details instore. Available at most Boots stores. Subject to availability.

STYLE FILE
EDITED BY
DAVID ANNAND

MAN ON A MISSION

e tack out against the wind. I am sitting starboard side,


my legs dangling over the hull as we cleave through the
water, 175 tonnes of superyacht, all power and polished
grace. Even while it is happening I am conscious that
sailing for the rst time on Rainbow is something akin to losing your
virginity to Marilyn Monroe: youre aware that something incredible is
happening but also that you will be ruined by it, that nothing in the
future will come close to matching it. The captain calls and we scramble
across the deck as the boom swings over the cockpit.
We are taking part in the Loro Piana Caribbean Superyacht Regatta
& Rendevous, one of 23 boats competing. The modern Rainbow,
above, is a J-Class yacht, an updated replica of the one that won the
Americas Cup in 1934. Suitably enough, were circumnavigating Virgin
Gorda, The Fat Virgin according to the ungentlemanly Christopher
Columbus, and the third largest of the
British Virgin Islands. With its grassy
hillocks and white sand sketched along the
waterline, the island is almost comically
paradisiacal and ideal for sailing.
The other yachts are spaced out either
side of us, a perfect arc of sails, each one
wind-taut against the blue sky. Pier Luigi
Loro Piana himself is our helmsman. He
listens to the various tacticians and swings
the wheel looking for the perfect racing
line. The team are all poised, ready to move

58 Cond Nast Traveller July 2014

with the kind of efficiency and grace that will see Rainbow nish second in
its class after the three days of sailing.
Like the rest of the crew, I am wearing a stylish uniform of long-sleeve
blue cotton polo, white shorts and jaunty little storm-system cap, as you
would expect from a team representing one of Italys most venerated
luxury labels. Unlike the rest of the crew, I do not look like some sort of
evolutionary end-point, all washboard abs and shark-like sailors wisdom.
Nor have I won the Americas Cup like Brad Butterworth, or been a
multiple world champion like Francesco de Angelis, both of whom are
on board. Nor am I willing to scamper spider-like up the mast, as my
crewmate does, to check on the sail that billows 170ft above us.
But I am willing to concede that there is no feeling like that of standing
on the deck of a boat, the sun hot on your back, the spray of seawater
cooling your face, moving forward powered only by the timeless wind.

READ THIS Moby-Dick. Herman Melvilles


epic account of Captain Ahabs quest is, as DH
Lawrence put it, the greatest book of the sea ever
written. The Whiteness of the Whale chapter
is one of the nest in American literature.
DOWNLOAD THIS Sloop John B. Taken
from their unalloyed 1966 masterpiece Pet
Sounds, The Beach Boys shimmering, harmonised
version of a West Indies folk song captures the
heady splendour of sailing the Caribbean.

PHOTOGRAPHS: CARLO BORLENGHI; STUART ISETT; KOBAL COLLECTION

Hoist the sails, splice the mainbrace: able-bodied seaman David Annand gets shipshape
on board Loro Pianas impeccably dressed superyacht in the British Virgin Islands

WETSUITS
Regardless of the weather,
surfers of an old-school bent
would be advised to slip into Aussiebrand Billabongs Heritage jacket,
which has a pleasing Sean Connery-era
James Bond quality to it. If youve got
to inltrate an arch-villains underwater
lair, slip it on with a pair of short white
shorts, grab yourself a harpoon and
youre set. Heritage Jacket, 79.99,
www.surfdome.com

Diehards always tell us


that surng is more than a
sport, its a way of life, a religion. And so,
just as Anglicans rock up to church in
their Sunday best, wave
worshippers always
bounce over the
breakers in a wetsuit
worthy of the
setting. Cut off at
the knee like Lyrca
lederhosen, this spring
suit by Rip Curl is ideal
for killing it at Kuta
Beach in Bali. Omega
Shorty, 54.99,
www.surfdome.com

DAVIDS POSTCARD FROM...


THE LOUVRE
Photography was once the medium of
the neur, a way of seeing. Like drawing
under John Ruskins tutelage or poetry
for Baudelaire, it was a means of looking
harder and appreciating more. It
demanded insight, concentration. You had
to frame, light, focus. You had to think.
At some point fairly recently this stopped
being the case. It might have been when
we started watching concerts through a
three-inch screen. Or when we thought
this might be a meaningful way of engaging
with works of art. Of course, the scrum
around the Mona Lisa is only the sharp
end of an increasing mania for experiencing
travels through the lens of an iPhone.
Every movement is appraised according
to its Instagramability, memories are
manufactured by soft-focus lters, and
the possibility of actually being present
in the moment is optioned off for an image
that might nd service in our always-on
effort to sell a version of our lives to our
online friends. The onrush of modernity
has enveloped our homes and work. If
were clever, travel could be our escape
from it. Occasionally, it seems, the only
sane response is simply Je refuse.

While surfers might


bang on about
the universal experience of
being on a board on a
wave, there are differences
between hanging ve in
Hawaii and trying it in
-5C in the North Sea at
Saltburn. Surfers up
north are superheroes for
braving the water, so its only
apposite that this coldweather kit from Quiksilver
resembles the costume of
a fashion-forward Phantom.
Cypher Mens 4/3, 210,
www.quiksilver.com

GET THE LOOK: BEVERLY HILLS COP


Leave the desk job behind and become as street-smart as Eddie Murphys fast-talking Axel Foley

From left: Varsity jacket, 325, Nanamica (www.endclothing.co.uk); Loopback sweatshirt, 105, Sunspel (www.sunspel.com); Haze JM1 jeans, 175,
Jean Machine (www.thejeanmachine.co.uk); Masterpiece watch, 1,800, Maurice Lacroix (www.ernestjones.co.uk)

STYLE FILE

Silk Alba pyjamas,


295, Olivia
von Halle
exclusive to www.
net-a-porter.
com. Pink-gold
Tortue watch
with leather
strap, 10,800,
Cartier (www.
cartier.co.uk)

On the scene: The Oberoi Udaivilas


The look: floaty elegance

Glisten sunglasses, 205, Dior


(www.dior.com)

Water, water everywhere. Perhaps no other Indian city is as mesmerisingly beautiful


as Udaipur. And the only place to stay is Udaivilas, reached by boat across glimmering
Lake Pichola. The Mewar-style building is a blaze of beautiful artwork, arches, pavilions,
balconies and secret nooks all accompanied by the tinkle of pretty fountains.
It is exquisitely good looking. And Biki Oberoi, who was responsible for a
whole new wave of Indian hotels with Oreo cookies in the minibars, is
a stickler for snazzy service. Staff are sharp, on it and forever polite. Plump
for a bedroom with an innity pool, a telescope and views of the City
Palace. This is modern-day India grown-up, glamorous and comfortable
where you can feast on salads and vegetables picked from the garden,
go Zen with private yoga and meditation, visit the Mewar Art Gallery,
shop the craft boutiques and then retreat to the excellent spa where
treatments incude Ayurvedic massages and chakra balancing. No
trip to Rajasthan feels quite right without a few nights of romantic
decadence here. THEA DARRICOTTE www.oberoihotels.com.
Doubles from about 470. Greaves Travel (+44 20 7487 9111;
www.greavesindia.co.uk) offers tailor-made trips to India

Fringed sandals,
390, Tods (www.
tods.com). Clic
Cest Nou thin
enamel bangle,
400; extra-large
enamel bangle,
570; large enamel
bangle, 455, all
Herms (www.
hermes.com).
The Organiser in
ostrich, 495,
Mulberry (www.
mulberry.com)

Bikini, 395,
Gucci at www.
net-a-porter.com

Eternal Collection
gemstone necklaces,
from 1,300, Kiki
McDonough (www.
kiki.co.uk). A look from
Isabel Marant S/S 14

Lockit leather bag,


2,400, Louis
Vuitton (www.
louisvuitton.co.uk)

LAUNCHING THIS MONTH ON

CNTRAVELLER.COM

THE SPA FINDER

THE QUICKEST WAY TO FIND THE BEST SPA FOR YOU, WITH
IN-DEPTH REVIEWS, ESSENTIAL ADVICE AND UNBEATABLE DEALS

+ HUNDREDS OF TRAVEL FEATURES + THE WORLDS BEST HOTELS +EXPERT ADVICE


+ DESTINATION GUIDES: ARGENTINA TO ZANZIBAR +HOLIDAYS TO WIN
Like us at www.facebook.com/cntraveller

Follow us at www.twitter.com/cntraveller

PHOTOGRAPH: MARY ROZZI

PLUS
WHERE TO GO
FOR SUNSHINE ALL
YEAR ROUND

TRENDWATCH

PHOTOGRAPH: NICOLE FRANZEN

LOOSENING UP UPTOWN IS THE NEW DOWNTOWN


Signs of new life are sprouting up in New York Citys stuffiest neighourhood, the Upper East Side. On its northern edge, as the streets
near 100, recent openings by chef Corey Cova are mellowing this blue-blooded boroughs stiff image with craft cocktails (at The
Guthrie Inn), small-batch brews (at ABV) and twists on comfort food (grilled-cheese sandwiches with pork belly and kimchi at Earls Beer
and Cheese; zingy doughnuts pineapple and brown butter at Dough Loco), all served in dive-style joints that wouldnt look out of place
in Williamsburg. Down on East 60th, The Jeffrey is a beacon for coffee geeks and beer snobs, and The Penrose, between 82nd and 83rd,
works the gastropub formula well: burgers, reclaimed decor and interesting ales on tap. But whats really got New Yorkers jumping on the
6 train is The East Pole (www.theeastpolenyc.com). This new restaurant in a brownstone on East 65th Street has blown a blast of freshness
through the heart of old-money Manhattan. Importing bearded barmen (shock) and tattooed waiters (horror) from hipper downtown haunts,
including sister restaurant The Fat Radish, it is just the right side of rustic. With undressed wooden tables, walls lined with vintage maps
and a menu that gives vegetables the star billing (beetroot houmous, seasonal crudits and shaved sheeps-milk cheese, pictured), its smart
enough not to scare the Chanel-jacket-and-pearls set, yet sceney enough to make scoring a reservation thrillingly tricky. FIONA KERR

July 2014 Cond Nast Traveller 63

64

PHOTOGRAPH: ANDREA WYNER

THE BEST

OF THE
GREEK
ISLANDS
HERES OUR INSIDERS GUIDE TO THE LOVELIEST HOTELS, SMARTEST
NEW VILLAS, TASTIEST TAVERNAS AND MOST BEAUTIFUL BEACHES
FROM THE IONIANS TO THE DODECANESE, PLUS SHIPSHAPE SAILING
ADVENTURES, FASHION FINDS FOR ISLAND-HOPPERS AND CHEFS TIPS
ON FABULOUS LOCAL FOOD. BY RACHEL HOWARD

Hotels

FIVE GREAT LITTLE PLACES YOU SHOULD KNOW ABOUT

MODERN CLASSIC

ANEMI

FOLEGANDROS
Now that British Airways and EasyJet have started direct ights to Santorini, its sleepy
little sister Folegandros is bound to get busier. Go now, before too many people
discover this awless example of laid-back island life. Anemi makes up for its
slightly awkward location halfway between the port and main town with crisp,
fresh interiors and warm service. The
low-slung hotel is a contemporary spin on
Cycladic architecture, with plenty of Eames
and Urquiola to bring the whitewashed
cubism up to date. Recycled cotton rugs,
feta tins full of basil, and blown-up snapshots
of island scenes add a splodge of local
colour. The menu is modern Mediterranean,
but breakfast is more traditional, with
sesame buns from the village bakery and an
irresistible bougatsa (custard pie). Theres a
large sea-water pool if you cant harness
the energy to stroll down to the port and
take a boat to the beach. At dusk, zigzag
up the hill to the Church of Panagia for an
eagles-eye view of the archipelago, then skip
down the steps to town for a few rounds of
rakomelo (warm grappa with honey). www.
anemihotels.com; doubles from about 155

SNAZZY PRIVATE PAD

PERIVOLAS HIDEAWAY

66

PHOTOGRAPHS: CHRISTOS DRAZOS; LAURENT FABRE; ALAN STRUTT

THIRASSIA

Perivolas has probably clocked up more travelmagazine covers than any other hotel, and that
famous innity pool, spilling from a dizzying
height over Santorinis volcanic caldera, has
spawned dozens of imitators. But while the
photogenic village of Oia swarms with loved-up
couples, the hotel has always remained blissfully
peaceful, with a pared-back aesthetic that lets
the view do the talking. Nowhere can quite
compare, except possibly its sister, Perivolas
Hideaway, three minutes by speedboat across
the caldera a better-kept secret with even more
spectacular views. Reached only by boat or
helicopter, this ve-bedroom retreat on the dozy
little island of Thirassia is all about escapism
(hence its appeal to harassed A-listers). The
house was built from the ruins of a former pumice
mine and rises straight out of the sea, waves
slapping rhythmically at the wraparound terraces.
Children arent allowed at Perivolas, but here
they have their own black-sand beach and a
whole eet of water toys to play with. Theres
also a private PADI diving centre, two rib boats
and a 12-metre Sunseeker with a full-time
skipper in the unlikely event that you want a
change of scene. And best of all, you get
Santorinis fabled sunsets all to yourself. www.
perivolashideaway.com; price on request

SCENE STEALER

SAN GIORGIO
MYKONOS

You dont have to look good in a bikini to stay here, but it denitely
helps. Originally planned as a pop-up in 2012, this boho bolthole is a
collaboration between Design Hotels and Paradise Club, where the
barely dressed gypset party until sunrise. On a rocky promontory
between Paradise and Paranga beaches, its the ultimate chill-out zone,
with hammocks strung around the pool and no TVs in the rooms. The
cool, all-white palette is peppered with texture and colour: antique
mirrors, embroidered cushions, rag rugs. Traditional Greek references
turn up in unexpected places, from a wall of weathered wooden shutters
behind the reception to worry
beads dangling from driftwood
sculptures. Standard rooms are
pretty small, but theres plenty
of space elsewhere. At Cantina
restaurant, authentic Greek
dishes including kakavia (sh
soup) are served at long, shared
tables. The place is designed
to make you feel like an insider,
with free VIP access to Paradise
Club, just 300 metres away (pack
earplugs), and impromptu
sets from guest DJs such as Moby
and David Guetta. And unlike
most things on Mykonos, San
Giorgio is remarkably good value.
www.designhotels.com/san_giorgio;
doubles from about 125

GREEN RETREAT

COCO-MAT ECO RESIDENCES

FAMILY FAVOURITE

ONAR

ANDROS
This is a big island with very few tourists, and the locals like it that way. With
its neoclassical mansions and modern-art museum, the main town feels
cosmopolitan, but the rest of the island is a pastoral nirvana speckled with
Byzantine monasteries, slate bridges and watermills. Set in a green valley at
the bottom of a bumpy dirt track, Onar is camouaged among sand dunes
and plane trees, and the cluster of stone cottages looks more like a smart
commune than a hotel. Each house has a shady veranda and plenty of space to
kick back, but guests come together for meals. Ingredients couldnt be fresher:
everything is picked from the organic garden, caught by local shermen or
reared on farms nearby. Froutalia (spicy sausage-and-potato omelette) is a
tasty speciality. Ahla beach, with its limpid waters and powdery sand, is just
a few paces away. Head inland and youre in a nature reserve where you can
skinny-dip in waterfalls. This is the stuff of childhood fantasies, an enchanting
place to rest and recharge. www.onar-andros.gr; one-bed houses from about 140

Style
Delicate, sustainable
jewellery by AngloGreek designer
Joanna Cave (www.
joannacave.com),
from the island of Ios

Please bring me back


Handmade, buttery-soft
leather sandals from
Valia Gabriel (www.
valiagabriel.com) in
simple, timeless styles

Practical and pretty beach


holdalls by Salty Bag (www.
saltybag.com), made in Corfu
from upcycled sails

Plush beach towels


in funky prints by
Sun of a Beach
(www.sunofabeach.
com). The hooded
baby versions and
kids ponchos are
very sweet too

PHOTOGRAPH: HELLAS, PHOTOGRAPHS OF MODERN GREECE, HUDSON HILLS PRESS, 2010 WILLIAM ABRANOWICZ/ART+COMMERCE

SERIFOS

There are surprisingly few waterfront hotels in Greece. This lovely, low-key
newcomer overlooks Vagia beach, one of many sandy bays on the island, and
all 13 one- and two-bed suites have terraces with sea views. A century ago,
the grey-stone building housed iron-ore miners. Its bioclimatic revamp was
designed with couples in mind (children under 10 are discouraged), but the
understated interiors are not remotely twee. Brushed-concrete oors have
witty trompe loeil tiles, and the custom-made furniture is upholstered in restful
shades of pale blue and grey. Kitchens have honesty cupboards stocked with
local produce and the chefs own recipes for inspiration. Breakfast is served
in your room, as the sweet little beach bar is the only restaurant. There are
free bicycles for exploring the island, but its 15km to the hilltop main town
so its really quite tempting to do nothing but laze in the sun. The vast
daybeds on the beach arent just for siestas: you can sleep out under the stars.
Coco-Mat supplies all-natural mattresses to many of Greeces best hotels, so
its not surprising that the beds are exceptional, and theres a selection of
nine pillows, too. www.serifos.coco-mat-hotels.com; doubles from about 125

Favourite islands

ponge-divers, boat-builders, merchant


mariners and wine traders made Symis
fortune. Neoclassical mansions in
every shade of umber and ochre tumble down
the hills to the port. No matter how many
times you round the headland, that view will
always make your heart utter.
The harbour is like an amphitheatre: cawing
seagulls, honking ferries and the clinking
masts of wooden gulets reverberate across
the tiled rooftops. Only half an hour from
Turkeys Turquoise Coast, it feels more Italian
than Ottoman. The colourful town has
the sophisticated buzz of the Amal coast,
especially in August when the Italians take
over Michelin-starred Muses restaurant and
Yorgos and Marias taverna, where you can
sample every stuffed vegetable under the sun.
Theres no airport and only one road, which
bumps through the forested heartland to
the 18th-century monastery of Panormitis.
Orthodox pilgrims come in droves to kiss
the silver icons and admire the Byzantine
frescoes (I go for the apple pie at the monks

FIVE ALL-TIME GREATS

SYMI Dodecanese

bakery). Smaller monasteries, hidden among


the islands groves of Lebanese cypress, are
well worth a pilgrimage on foot.
But most visitors dont stray far from Symis
ravishing beaches. Enterprising islanders with
speedboats and shing boats will take you
off to castaway beaches. At ritzy Ayia Marina
bay, the turquoise water is so clear you can
see tiny sh darting between your toes. Hungry
goats poke their noses through the fence of
the farm/taverna on Marathounda beach,
which serves the most addictive deep-fried
baby shrimps, a Symi speciality.
As the sun sets and the day-trippers from
Rhodes disappear, a mesmerising stillness
settles over the harbour. If you stroll west past
the abandoned shipyard, youll nd a little
house brimming with basil and geraniums
planted in miniature wooden boats. The old
man who makes them worked in the shipyard
all his life. Last summer, I ordered one for
my parents 50th wedding anniversary. But I
had to paint their names on the prow myself,
as he couldnt read or write. RH

Staying here
The Old Markets hotel (doubles from about
145) is a listed monument. Once youve
stayed in the Symi Suite, with 360-degree
harbour views, its hard to settle for any of the
other four rooms. Wendy Wilcox is the local
villa expert: To Plio and Spiti Belle Helene are
the ones to book (see www.symivisitor.com)

Eating here
At the tip of the harbour, Tholos has the
freshest sh and an unbeatable taramasalata

Hot tip
Hit Tsati bar for moonlit Mojitos and
gourmet bruschetta on the waterfront

Best beach
Backed by a 300-metre cliff, the pebble
beach of Ayios Yiorgios Disalonas is only
accessible by boat. There are no tavernas,
so take plenty of water and a picnic

Getting here
Fly to Rhodes with EasyJet or Monarch,
then 45 minutes by ferry

69

Eat Greek

HOT TIPS FROM THE COUNTRYS TOP CHEFS


DIANE KOCHILAS

Cookery teacher and author of 18 books


on Greek food, including the forthcoming
Ikaria: Lessons in Food, Life and Longevity from
the Island Where People Forget to Die

Favourite ingredient
Ikarian wild oregano.
I pick and dry it myself to
use with sh, vegetables
and beans, even in some
sweet dishes: it goes well
with gs. To me, its like
perfume from the island.
I can be there, even if Im
not, with just a pinch

Favourite taverna
Karakas sh taverna at Karkinagri in southern
Ikaria. I love it for its simplicity. Karakas
has been a sherman his whole life, and
the catch here is supremely fresh. Its a real
Greek island experience

Insider tip
At Greek tavernas, always ask if the dips
are made in-house. The commercial stuff just
isnt worth ordering

THEODORE KYRIAKOU
Chef and author of Real Greek Food, whose
new London restaurant, The Greek Larder,
opens in September

Favourite ingredient

TESSA
KIROS

GEORGE VENIERIS

Executive chef at Londons new Mazi


restaurant, who also cooks at Liasti, Lady
Finger and Pug on Mykonos

Author of Food From


Many Greek Kitchens

Favourite ingredient

Favourite ingredient

Kritamo, a type of Greek samphire that grows


on rocks beside the sea on most of the islands.
It gives an original sea-saltiness to a dish

Favourite dish
If you go to Folegandros, the island I come
from, try the local speciality matsata: fresh
pasta with rabbit and goats cheese

Favourite taverna
Liasti on Mykonos: all the ingredients come
from the organic farm behind the restaurant.
The food is simple,
but it tastes amazing

Insider tip
Greek cooking is all about
absolutely fresh ingredients.
On Folegandros, they
say: Good sh has the
head on the plate and
the tail in the sea
70

Rosewater. I love its


unmistakableness
coming through in a
dish like loukoumi, sweet blocks of various
avours showered with icing sugar

Favourite dish
Fried calamari, especially in the family-run
taverna on Chrissopigi beach, Sifnos

Favourite taverna
Cafe Avissinia in Monastiraki,
Athens. If youre lucky, you can get
a table on the terrace under the
Acropolis. I have the taramasalata
and gavros (sh llets marinated in vinegar)

Insider tip
If you order a Greek coffee, make sure its
properly made in a hovoli, cooked over
hot sand, and let it sit for a few minutes
so the grounds can settle to the bottom

Santorinian fava: the local volcanic soil and


combination of Aegean humidity and Aeolian
winds make this bean unique to the island

Favourite dish
Line-caught calamari in a tomato-fritter crust,
from Ikaria, a relatively isolated island where
youll nd local produce at
its best. I ate this dish on a
shing boat at 3am while the
calamari were being caught

Favourite taverna
Try any of the waterfront
tavernas at Ammoudi, a tiny
harbour below Oia on
Santorini, which has looked the
same since my rst
visit in 1980. I go for grilled scorpion
sh, tiny sweet tomatoes and local
Donkey beer, with a fantastic view

Insider tip
The unknown island of
Levitha, between Leros and
Paros, is home to just four
people, the Kamposos family.
They have a small taverna and
grow almost all their own food

PHOTOGRAPHS: CAMERA PRESS; CHANTELLE GRADY; ALENA HRBKOV/STOCKFOOD; JULIA KLIMI; MADS MOGENSEN; MASSIMO PIPANI/SIME/4CORNERS IMAGES

Favourite dish
A superb Greek salad made with August
tomatoes, the crunchiest cucumbers, oregano,
home-cured olives and sharp red onions. I like
to dress it with a wedge of kathoura, a goatsmilk cheese from Ikaria. (Caveat: a proper Greek
salad can only be served in summer)

Favourite islands

ANTIPAROS Cyclades

he best wedding party I ever went to was on the


dinky ferry that plies the narrow strait between
Paros and Antiparos. After the ceremony on an
uninhabited isle, we danced our way back, whirling
around the deck egged on by an energetic ddle player.
Nicknamed the pantoa (slipper), the ferry takes
just eight minutes to get from lively Paros to low-key
Antiparos. But the Hollywood crowd Tom Hanks
and the CEO of 20th Century Fox own homes here
come by yacht or helicopter. Antiparos isnt fancy,
but its seriously fashionable.
Pretty much everything happens on the main
street, which leads to Kastro, a
15th-century fortied settlement.
Sit at a pavement caf sipping a
freddo cappuccino and youll soon
get to know the local tribes: bronzed
rock chicks, cosmopolitan Greeks,
and good-looking Scandinavians
apparently unfazed by holidaying
with hordes of small children.
The sandy beaches lapped by
shallow waters are ideal for babies
and toddlers. The spooky cave
of Ayios Yiannis is a thrill for kids,
encrusted with stalactites and
stalagmites dating back millions of
years. Otherwise, theres really not
much to do apart from alternating
your favourite beaches and tavernas.
Young families stroll to the sheltered bays on either
side of town; hot young things head to Apandima or
Soros. For more seclusion, drive south to Ayios Yiorgios,
a volcanic headland scalloped with tiny coves: go
early to bag your own private beach. Captain Pipinos
is a fantastically good sh taverna on the waterfront.
Nearby is Oliaros, a sweet guesthouse that hosts
yoga retreats. Confusingly, Oliaros is also the name of
the property company run by Iasson Tsakonas, a canny
developer who commissioned show-stopping villas

dotted around Antiparos. They are mostly for sale, but


a few, such as Panagia II, below, are available to rent.
When it all starts to feel too incestuous, I escape to
Paros for dinner at Klarinos in the mountain village of
Lefkes, then hit the bars in Naoussa. Dont worry about
getting marooned: the pantoa runs until 2am. RH

Staying here
New for 2014, Beach House (doubles from about
165), right, has seven suites on Apandima
beach. With Pilates, massage, a concept store,
boats for hire, and a top-notch sh restaurant
on site, youll barely have to leave the place.
Antiparos Escape has a portfolio of stylish
houses hand-picked by insiders

Eating here
The best brunch, especially the French toast with
Greek honey and walnuts, is at La Louche,
right. At night, its also the top spot for
people-watching over sea-urchin linguine
and g tart. For amazing wood-red pizzas,
go to Lollos on the waterfront

Hot tip
This summer, Swiss gallerist Eva Presenhuber
opens Kastro 146, an exhibition
space in the 15th-century castle, with
a solo show by Joe Bradley

Best beach
The sandy bay of Soros is where many
Greek movers and shakers have
summer homes. Youll nd them lunching
at the taverna Peramataki

Getting here
Fly to Athens, Santorini or Mykonos,
then take a ferry to Paros. You can also y
from Athens to Paros. Antiparos is a
half-hour boat ride from the main port of
Parikia, or eight minutes by ferry from Pounta

Favourite islands
I

ITHACA Ionian

have been going to Ithaca for more than a decade


now. It started because friends from Zimbabwe
had inherited a tumbledown house in the capital,
Vathy; and when they arrived in the UK, wide-eyed
refugees from Mugabes madness, we ew over to
take a look. Now my memories of it sweet-scented,
breezy mornings and evenings, the still hotness at
midday sustain me through dark, cold winters.
Unlike its bigger, brasher neighbour Cephalonia,
Ithaca has no sandy beaches or airport, making it
a less obvious choice for a holiday, and it seems to
like it that way. Most visitors have family ties with
the island, being part of the global diaspora created
by a massive earthquake in 1953. Which is why
you will nd Australians, Americans, South Africans
and Zimbabweans in the cafs and tavernas, rather
than a job-lot of Mancunians or Londoners
as is often the case in package-holiday
spots elsewhere in Greece.
A lot of people get to Ithaca by sailboat
or oating gin palace, but since I have
neither, I y to Cephalonia and catch
the ferry across. Depending on ight times,
there can be a long wait, and so I settle
into one of the dockside tavernas, order
grilled calamari and a cold beer and crack
open a book. To my mind, there is no
better start to a Greek island holiday.
Spiny backed and sheer-sided, Ithaca is
almost sliced in half by the stupendously
blue Molos Bay, creating an island of two
parts. Vathy is in the south, arranged as
an amphitheatre at the head of a deep
harbour with a curiously narrow entrance;
the only other village in the area is Perahori,
up in the hills behind the port. The north
is dominated by Mount Netritus, around
which loops the islands main road,
connecting the villages of Lefki, Stavros,
Frikes and Kioni along a suicidal corniche
sandwiched between the unforgiving
mountainside and plunging cliffs. I nd
this exhilarating although I am probably
in the minority and lunch at Calypso taverna on
the waterfront in tickety-boo Kioni (which serves the
most perfect avgolemono dolmades), followed by a
swim from the rocks on the edge of the little yacht
harbour, is a wonderful incentive to go for a drive.
Otherwise, most of our days are spent on a
beach. Dexia is a favourite with locals although it
has the narrowest stretch of sharp pebbles because
the ancient olive grove that runs down to its gently
lapping shoreline provides blessed shade. When the
children were younger, they would keep themselves
entertained for hours by catching cicadas in the
gnarled bark of those centuries-old trees.
After an afternoon nap, an ouzo and supper
either at the house or in the village it used to
be Trehandiri for the kleftiko, but the ships cook
has moved on, so now its over to magnicently
mustachioed Nicos we somehow always end
up eating ice cream on the central square, where

sun-glazed children play late into the night and


there is an almost tribal loyalty to one patisserie
or another (Livanis, since you ask).
There is little to disturb the peace or cause
great excitement on Ithaca, although some of
us have been known to drink cocktails and dance
enthusiastically at Mylos the Creperie. But such
exertions are rare, for this is a place to slowly unfurl
in the sun, rest and read, rekindle friendships,
and laugh easily. PETER BROWNE

Staying here
The best hotel is Perantzada in Vathy
(doubles from about 95), which has
beautiful, dazzling-white interiors. Ileana von
Hirsch, who owns villa company Five Star
Greece, is from the island and has some
lovely places on her books

Eating here
For an alternative to traditional Greek food,
Libretto Trattoria serves fresh pasta dishes
using local ingredients; if youd rather cook,
Homer & Co is a chic new place in Vathy
selling (admittedly pricey) organic produce
along with clothes and homeware

Hot tip
Ingrid Gottschalk runs a yoga retreat and
takes individual sessions at private villas on
the island (see www.itha108.com)

Best beaches
Family-friendly Filiatro has a simple caf
under the trees and good swimming. Whitepebble Gidaki has no shade and attracts
a younger, child-free crowd: get there by
boat taxi from Vathy, or hike through the
pine-covered slopes behind the bay of Skinos

Getting here
Fly to Argostoli on Cephalonia (MayOctober)
with EasyJet, Monarch or Thompson and take
the ferry from Sami to Piso Aetos on Ithaca

PHOTOGRAPHS: JULIEN CAPMEIL; CHRISTOS DRAZOS; ADAM EASTLAND/AGE FOTOSTOCK; LAURENT FABRE; LISA LINDER/4CORNERS IMAGES

HYDRA Saronic
A

s a teenager I spent most weekends on Hydra,


where my friend Dominique had a house. There
were no street names or numbers: hers was the
house cloaked in bougainvillaea so vividly pink it looked
fake. Wed sneak out of her bedroom window and race
along the coast to the disco, Cavos, to dance to the B-52s.
Cavos is long gone, but otherwise little has changed
on Hydra in the past 30-odd years. The same dilapidated
dolphins (hydrofoils) service the island, the same yachts
jostle for pole position in the horseshoe harbour, and the
same louche (though a little more grizzled) bon viveurs
hang out at the Pirate bar, where the same old rock tunes
play. From Henry Miller to Leonard Cohen, Chlo Sevigny
and Juergen Teller, the Hydra set have always been nonconformists, drawn to the islands rough-edged beauty.
Much of Hydras timeless appeal is down to building
regulations. With its grey-stone mansions and blindingly
white alleys, the harbour town is still as aesthetically
perfect as Miller found it in the 1930s. The other major
draw is that vehicles of any kind are banned, so the rest of
the island still has the wild and naked perfection the writer
fell for. Sun-baked footpaths trace the craggy coast, with
countless coves and rocks for cooling off. (The name Hydra
derives from the ancient Greek word for water, but the taps
often trickle to a frustrating drip when you get back from
the beach.) One of my favourite walks is to Vlychos: theres
a scrappy little beach beyond a waterfront taverna thats
as Greek as it gets. After fried red mullet, stewed octopus
and salad, you can catch a caique back to town.
Life is slow and simple on Hydra, but its also casually
decadent. Every summer, international artists and
sharp-eyed collectors come together for cutting-edge art
shows in the ramshackle high school and slaughterhouse.
One year, Matthew Barney and Elizabeth Peyton staged
a dawn funeral procession for a dead shark. The carcass
was solemnly carried to a banqueting table by the sea
and devoured by their disciples. You wonder what the
local cats and donkeys make of it all. RH

Staying here
Bohemian Bratsera (doubles from about 115) is
the only hotel with a swimming pool. If you want
your own, check into the lavish, ve-bedroom Villa
Bougainvillea (www.whitekeyvillas.com) you also
get your own boat and music room.

Eating here
Tucked away in the tangle of alleys behind the port,
To Geitoniko is a family-run taverna that dishes
up classics such as courgette croquettes and lamb
chops on a buzzy roof terrace

Hot tip
To mark this summers 15th anniversary of Hydra
School Projects, 15 video artists will screen their
work in cafs along the harbour, and ThreeAsFour
will show fashion lms at the open-air cinema

Best beach
Take a water taxi to Bisti, a pebble beach shaded by
pine trees where the water is bright green

Getting here
Fly to Athens, then its a two-hour hydrofoil or
catamaran ride from Piraeus
73

Villas

FIVE SUPERB NEW ADDITIONS TO THE SCENE

MODERN SMOOTHY

SKIATHOS RX
SPORADES

With direct ights from several European cities,


the island of Skiathos was the glamorous star of
the pine-fringed Sporades way before Mamma Mia.
Poking out of the forest, this new glass-fronted
villa looks unassuming from afar. But up close,
the cutting-edge architecture makes a big impact.
The modern interiors are so sleek theyre almost
austere, but its the outdoor area that blows you
away: a vast wooden deck with a palm-thatched
barbecue, re pit and open-air home cinema. At
sunrise, seagulls swoop over the 75-square-metre
innity pool. Its even more dramatic at dusk as
the sun melts into the sea. Although completely
secluded, its only a ve-minute walk away from
three of the best beaches on Skiathos: Banana and
Koukounaries, with their watersports and pumping
beach bars, and quieter, cooler Ampelakia.
Here, at Mystique beach bar, a plate of crispy
calamari with chilli and lime goes down well with
an ice-cold Septem pilsner. Sleeps 12. www.
vestargreece.com; price on request

EASYGOING GETAWAY

LIA BEACH HOUSE


SERIFOS

Camouaged among tamarisk and bamboo


groves, beside a stream that runs into a
sandy bay, this boho beach house looks as
though its been here forever. The only
other house nearby belongs to the owner/
architect. He used to camp out here when
he rst discovered Serifos in the 1980s,
so he designed this place to capture the
freedom of outdoor living. A cluster
of ve typically Cycladic buildings contain
the bedrooms and bathrooms, connected
by internal courtyards that double as
kitchen, dining and living areas. (Theres
also a rock-hewn indoor kitchen for when
the blustery meltemi blows.) Interiors
reect the natural landscape, with brushedconcrete beds dressed in blues, greys
and greens, and mobiles fashioned from
otsam and jetsam. Flagstones lead to
pristine Lia beach, usually deserted until
midday even in August. This is the very
denition of barefoot chic, with a sense of
simplicity that feels quintessentially Greek.
Sleeps 10. www.hipawayvillas.com;
price on request

74

SECLUDED CHARMER

PEGASUS ESTATE
CYCLADES

There arent many secrets left in the


Mediterranean, but this is one of them.
At the southern tip of Evia is an archipelago
of small, mostly uninhabited islands,
one of which is home to this seaside villa,
accessible only by speedboat and just an
hour from Athens airport. Once the winter
resort of the Ottoman pasha of Evia,
the 1,200-acre estate is surrounded
by olive, g and pistachio trees, miles of
walking trails and long private beaches.
Recently renovated, the 100-year-old
house has kept its old-fashioned charm,
with patterned oor tiles, crocheted
bedspreads and reclaimed marble sinks.
Theres a wood-red oven for outdoor
meals, with daily provisions from the
organic farm and seafood delivered
by a local sherman. The semicircular
pier is lined with sun-loungers strategically
placed for sunset views. Paradise for
children, the property has two Lasers
for forays to the nearby islands of Andros
and Kea. There are two housekeepers.
Sleeps 10. www.uniquepropertiesandevents.
com; price on request

CALYPSO

Shipping news

Boats

TWO OF THE CLEVEREST WAYS TO REACH THE PLACES YOU CAN ONLY GET TO BY SEA

The skipper
British buccaneer David Sidwell sails the
Mediterranean with family and friends, taking
a few lucky charter guests along for the ride

Unappable and unassuming, Captain Zois Skrimpias has spent


his whole life at sea, rst in the merchant navy, then at the helm of
some of the sleekest yachts in the Greek islands

The kit
The 31-metre superyacht Duke is kitted out like a ve-star hotel, sleeps
eight and comes with lots of water toys. With a cruising speed of 27
knots and Rolls-Royce Kamewa jet engines, its a seriously smooth ride

When Sidwell couldnt nd the perfect


craft, he built his own. Entirely made of wood and metal, Calypso is
stable, child-friendly and comfortably sleeps 10

PHOTOGRAPHS: GAP INTERIORS/COSTAS PICADAS;


JULIA KLIMI; PAUL OTT/VITEO

The trip
Every trip is tailored to guests requirements. But one of my favourite
routes is downwind through the Dodecanese. In two weeks, you can
zigzag between the wonderfully unspoilt islands of Fourni, Patmos,
Arki, Lipsos, Leros, Kalymnos, Symi and Tilos. Fantastic food, too

I specialise in island-hopping itineraries in the Ionians, where Im from.


The waters are the bluest in Greece and you dont get the choppy
winds of the Cyclades. Plus you have the thrill of speeding through the
Corinth Canal to get there from Athens

Favourite spot
On Limnos, theres a reggae bar in a boat beached up in the dunes. But
the bluest water is on the dramatic western side of Paxos, accessible only
by boat. You can clearly see the anchor in 40 metres of water

If I get lucky spear-shing, well cast anchor


at Varko, a hidden bay close to where I grew
up, and have a barbecue on the beach

Insider tip
The island of Kyra Panagia in the Northern Sporades, fabled home of
the Cyclops. There are two very blue lagoons and sunken Minoan ruins.
You might even spot a monk seal, one of the rarest animals in Europe

Theres a fantastic taverna on the tiny island


of Meganisi where you can pick your lunch
straight out of a pool full of live lobsters

Contact
+44 7879 815035; www.calypsoadventure.com; from 10,000 per week

www.vestargreece.com; from 40,000 per week

DUKE

LAID-BACK GEM

THE BOAT HOUSE

ART LOVERS ESCAPE

VILLA ANEMA
PATMOS

From the Aga Khan to Prince Michael of Greece, the main town of Patmos,
the best-preserved Byzantine settlement in the Aegean, has some pretty
swanky residents. Manos Hatzidakis, son of the famous composer, has
persuaded some of them to open up their impeccable mansions to guests.
The owners of this sun-drenched house run a successful gallery in London.
Although the wooden ceilings, kilims and agstone oors are typically
Patmian, the decor is an eclectic mix of antiques sourced from around the
world. The huge kitchen is made for entertaining, but youll want to eat
outside in the secret cobbled courtyard or on a balcony hovering between sky
and sea. Opposite is Protis Ilias, a tiny church on the islands rocky pinnacle.
If you climb up here for sunset, Manos will be waiting with mezze and aperitifs.
Sleeps 8. www.serendipitypatmos.com; from about 5,700 per week

Fashion
ATHENS-BORN BRITISH DESIGNER MARY KATRANTZOU IS BEST KNOWN FOR
HER HYPER-REAL PRINTS. NOW SHES GOING BACK TO HER ROOTS
How would you define Greek style?
A sense of freedom. You can go seamlessly
from beach to taverna to bar in the
same outt, which is liberating. But
everything is considered: theres always lots
of colour and glamour.

Do the islands inspire your work?

Theres a lot of Greek


inuence in my latest collection, with its classical draping and
pleating. The lacework is in the tradition of bridal wear and folk
costumes at the Benaki Museum in Athens. You just dont nd
that level of intricacy these days, now that everything is digitised.

Name one fashion accessory you need in the Greek Islands


A pair of handmade leather sandals, perfect for cobbled streets and
rocky climbs. You can nd them everywhere and theyre not expensive,
so I buy three of four different styles every summer. The trick is to walk
76

into the sea wearing them, so they look worn in and dont
slip. Ancient Greek Sandals does amazing high-end versions,
giving something very traditional a modern touch.

Do you have a favourite shop in the islands?


Luisa, a tiny boutique right on Psarou beach in
Mykonos. It stocks lots of interesting designers
(including me) and theres a nail bar, too. Its
a totally different retail experience, shopping
while drinking Mojitos on the beach. And it gets
louder and louder as the night goes on.

And a favourite jeweller? Lalaounis makes beautiful gold


pieces with a strong Greek heritage. But you cant have a dip in the
sea wearing your Lalaounis bracelet, so every summer I buy lots
of braided charms handmade by locals who sell them on the
beach. For me, those colourful bracelets dene summer.

PHOTOGRAPHS: JASON BELL/CAMERA PRESS; JULIEN CAPMEIL; JAD DAVENPORT/NATIONAL GEOGRAPHIC CREATIVE; LUIS DAVILLA/FOTOTECA; CHRISTOS DRAZOS; LAURENT FABRE; YIANNIS HADJISLANIS

CORFU

Framed by green headlands with unbroken views across the


straits to Albania, this huge, homely villa is a few steps from the
sea. You can fall asleep to the sound of the waves and wake up
to complete solitude as theres not a neighbour in sight. Days
can be spent lazing beside the innity pool or hopping in and out
of boats moored at two private jetties. Theres a sailing school
on the adjacent beach and a diving instructor on speed-dial. The
terraced gardens are full of shady nooks for meals prepared by
an accomplished chef: ask for the seared sea bass with preserved
lemons, chickpeas and couscous followed by mango tart with
sweet chilli syrup. For something more traditional, there are two
excellent tavernas in Avlaki, a few minutes across the bay.
If youre looking for action, the lively little harbour of Kassiopi is
a 15-minute walk away. Sleeps 812. www.cvvillas.com; from
4,500 to 23,000 per week, including a chef

Favourite islands

MYKONOS Cyclades

ykonos has a reputation for unbridled


hedonism which seems entirely unfounded,
try as I might to prove otherwise. I
have been visiting for 20 years now, and even at
the height of the islands renown as a hotbed for
homosexuality, I have consistently failed to nd
anything more shocking than a pink thong on a
(perfectly ordinary) nudist beach.
The truth is, Mykonos is everymans Greek island,
fantastically adept at appealing to the broadest possible
church. It is also big enough to keep its many diverse
admirers in totally separate compartments.
In high summer, Mykonos plays host to thousands
of cruise-ship passengers. They pour into town in the
late afternoon, do a bit of shopping, photograph the
sunset from a pricey bar in Little Venice and head back
to the new port built expressly for this purpose. Yet
somehow the towns famously befuddling, labyrinthine
streets designed to confuse invading pirates manage
to absorb their excitable voices and footfall in a vanishing
act worthy of an accomplished conjurer.
Although not as infatuated with the Pink Pound as
it used to be, Mykonos is still loyally gay-friendly, with
Elia beach catering to the Germanic clothing-optional
crowd, and night spots such as Kastro and The Piano
Bar whipping out drag acts, show tunes and deafening
classical music for old-school scene queens.
Elsewhere, club kids hang out at Paranga and
Super Paradise beaches; sporty types head to Ftelia
on Panormos Bay to windsurf; families congregate
around pragmatic Platis Gialos and Agrari; cool
couples prefer out-of-the-way Panormos beach;
and an altogether more sophisticated set heads for
low-key Agio Sostis.
There is much more to the island than sassy,
international Mykonos Town, with its painterly
streets overhung with crimson bougainvillaea, its
twinkly boutiques selling Gucci and Prada, its Nobu
restaurant and Argentine steak house. Head out
of town into the rocky, moon-landing terrain and
there is no doubting where you are.
Most islanders live in Ano Mera, the traditional
inland village with its drowsy central square. The
supermarket here services the unimaginably smart
holiday villas dotted around the baking interior
and deep blue Panormos Bay, all built in the classic
Cycladic igloo mould that dates back to the earliest

Minoan settlements, but now interior-designed to


polished near-perfection.
The last time I was on Mykonos I stayed in a
beautiful family villa in upmarket Kanalia, a relatively
new development near Ornos. It was comforting
to know that fun-loving Mykonos Town was just
a few kilometres away, and having a hire-car meant
being able drop in on any number of different
scenarios daily, perhaps stopping off for lunch at
lively Christos Tavern above Panormos beach in
the north and people-watching over an evening
ouzo on Psarou beach in the south, where the most
beautiful yachts tend to moor.
Mykonoss talent is that it can be anything,
and everything, you could possibly want a
Greek Island to be. PB

Staying here
The chicest hotel is the Belvedere
(doubles from about 150) in Mykonos
Town, home to Matsuhisa Mykonos
Japanese restaurant since 2004. Federico
Arduinos Aqualiving (www.mykonosvillas.
com) has the best villas on Mykonos,
including an unpublished private collection

Eating here
Kikis Tavern, above peaceful Agio
Sostis beach is the islands worst-kept
secret. Theres no phone and they
dont take bookings, but its well worth
the wait if theres a queue

Hot tip
Private tours of the nearby island of
Delos, one of the most important
archaeological sites in Greece, can be arranged
through the Aqualiving concierge

Best beach
If you want to escape the crowds, head
for Kapari, a tiny cove at the end of a road
beyond Agios Ioannis: no umbrellas, no
sun-loungers; just rocks, a tiny beach and
gently lapping, baby-blue sea

Getting here
EasyJet ies direct to Mykonos, and British
Airways has just launched a new direct service

ITS THE KOOKIEST SCENE ON THE PLANET, AND ITS GROWING DAY BY DAY. SO WHAT IS IT ABOUT MARFA, THE SMALL
78

TEXAN TOWN WITH THE BIG ART, THAT BLOWS OUR MINDS? BY LAURA FOWLER. PHOTOGRAPHS BY JOHN HUBA

tumbleweed lollops in front of the car like a


drunk rolling home. Warblers and cowbirds skitter
blindly out of the scrub and the occasional turkey vulture wheels
overhead, watchful for roadkill; nature cleaning up after us. The
road goes on and on, railroad-straight, through the high desert
of wildest-west Texas, red-rock mountains rendered insignicant
by the great, interminable sky.
This is Big Sky Country. Cowboy country. No Country for
Old Men country, empty but for the voice on the radio. Youre
listening to KRTS, it reassures between the honky-tonk;
a deep, molasses-over-gravel voice.
Above the horizon, where rainclouds billow and build, the
weather can change in a heartbeat. There are no more birds. In
the rearview mirror, the sky is the colour of smoke. The music
cuts out and there comes an alarming beeping, then the urgent,
tinny message: Tornado warning for Presidio County, Texas.
Destructive winds in excess of 70 miles per hour and hailstones
the size of quarters. Take cover now.
And here am I, right in the middle of Presidio County, Texas,
not so much as a haybarn in sight. Dark clouds begin funnelling
towards the ground. Nothing else for it: I step on it, wheels
squealing on the hot road. Up ahead, a squat little building
appears a stable? A storm shelter?
Of course. It is a Prada boutique. The door is locked, but
it is denitely a Prada boutique, full of Prada shoes and Prada
handbags, a Prada sign above the door; incongruous as a rodeo
on the Champs-Elyses. Out here in the middle of vast nowhere,
no one around for miles certainly no one that needs a Prada
shoe. This is no country for high heels.
Welcome to marfa, population: 2,000. What an appropriately
surreal way to arrive in this remote town, a pocket of something
surprising and unexpected in the middle of the great big wideopen. I make it to the Thunderbird hotel as the rst fat raindrops
hiss on the roof and shake scent from the lavender bushes. The
storm misses us by a whisker. An hour later and the sky has
cleared, the ground dry and dusty once more.
To the passerby, Marfa is a quiet cowboy town, drowsy
with heat. Old Silverado station wagons and ranch pick-ups,
piled with hay, trundle over its crossroads. Its tallest building
is a pastel neo-Renaissance courthouse. Retro signage marks
its heydays: 19th-century playbill, Art Deco curves, zippy

Clockwise from this picture:


Ty Mitchell, owner of the
Lost Horse Saloon; untitled
works in mill aluminium
by Donald Judd, housed
in a former artillery shed;
actor Richard Covurrubias;
quilted caravan at El
Cosmico; the Ballroom
Marfa gallery

Mid-Century Modernism in burned-out neon. And yet, here


and there are signs that everything is not quite as it seems. The
Prada boutique, for one. Posters for concerts; a bookshop full
of poetry. A chap with a complicated haircut creaks by on a
xed-gear bicycle.
Marfa is known, among arts-savvy circles, as the crazy art
town in the desert. It has been compared with every citys
hippest neighbourhood, and with every festival Art Basel and
Hay-on-Wye with sunshine all year round but the truth is that
Marfa cannot really be compared with anywhere, because it
is unique. A microcosm of the art world, a broiling, boiling pot
of creativity, which came about because of one person.
In the 1970s, the artist Donald Judd found himself at these
crossroads. He had been travelling all over the South-west,
seeking space, and his search ended in Marfa and its empty,

THE UNRECONSTRUCTED LOST HORSE SALOON SMELLS OF HORSES AND CIGARETTES AND IS PRESIDED
80

uninterrupted landscape. Judd acquired an entire disused army


base and began to ll it with his own minimalist works and those
of his contemporaries, inside and out. The scale is astounding:
massive concrete cubes rustling with bluebelly lizards stretch for
a kilometre across the desert, shadows shifting with the sun.
Barracks, mess halls, artillery sheds are the permanent homes of
site-specic works, light installations, dozens of aluminium boxes
reecting the landscape, over and over.
More artists followed. They never stopped following. One by
one, Marfas abandoned buildings became showcases for art.
Behind weatherworn faades are little worlds of wondrousness.
That granary, beside the railway track? When the doors swing
open its sultry space is home to 22 of John Chamberlains
crumpled metal sculptures, sexual in their twisted entanglement,
intensied by the heat. Not so much an exhibition; they are

just there. Judds words: Things that exist exist. In Marfa, this
makes perfect sense.
Since Judd died in 1994, Marfas numbers have swelled with
a new bohemian society: artists, writers, musicians. They came
from New York, Los Angeles, Austin, Chicago, and they never went
back. Everybody here is making something, one tells me.
I make everything, says another, solemnly. I make ideas.
When I came here 10 years ago, I thought, What this
town needs is a radio station, an ice-cream parlour, or a
drive-in, says Tom Michael, who set up Marfa Public Radio
(something like Radio 4 does the John Peel Sessions; Feist,
Willie Nelson and Bryan Adams have all appeared live in the
studio). Now it has all three.
Marfa is full of such community-spirited free-thinkers, a kind
of modern-day Bloomsbury Group, people who dont watch

OVER BY A PREGNANT BARMAID AND A COWBOY WITH AN EYE-PATCH AND AN ALL-MAN MOUSTACHE

Clockwise from left: local


photographer and musician
Alex Marks; the Food Shark
Museum of Electronic Wonders
and Late Night Grilled Cheese
Parlour; the Palace cinema,
now an artists studio; staff
from the Marfa Ballroom on
an art installation outside the
building; Donald Judd works
at The Block; the neon sign of
the Thunderbird hotel; one of
Food Sharks eet of vintage
cars; School No 6, an artwork
by Ilya Kabakov gifted to the
Chinati Foundation in 1993;
Marfas water tower, which is
visible from just about every
part of town

82

Clockwise from this picture:


the 6am freight train rumbles
through town, past a eet
of Food Shark cars; the
Thunderbird hotel; brothers
JD and David Garcia; untitled
light installation by Dan Flavin
at the Chinati Foundation;
musician Anthony DeSimone

television and who instead write poetry, start bands, make goats
cheese or jewellery. There are yoga classes on a porch at Judds
army base. A thriving arts bookshop hosts readings by highprole authors. A 1930s Mexican dancehall houses Ballroom
Marfa, an art foundation and a cool, white space where the
world-class installations, often produced here, rival those in any
capital city. Outside a church a sign reads WRONG, in Wantedposter script. Beneath its vaulted ceilings are the gallery-like
store and workshop of artist Campbell Bosworth and his wife
Buck Johnson, just about the coolest people you could meet, and
the nicest, who live here with their adopted coyote, selling
Bosworths irreverent, intricately carved sculptures. CineMarfa
screens arthouse lms in any resurrected building in town, from
a car park to the Crowley Theater, a former feed store. I dont
think these kinds of things would happen in another place, says

Rob Weiner, co-director of the Chinati Foundation, who is


directing an opera at the Crowley. It exemplies the spirit which
was sparked by Judd coming here in the early Seventies.
Judds legacy is extraordinary. Bumper stickers read I Q
JUDD and WWDJD (What Would Donald Judd Do?). His
work informs everything: the curving roof of the Thunderbird
restaurant is modelled on his artillery sheds; his pared-down
wooden furniture inspired the benches at the Food Shark van
beside the railway track that slices through town like a knife.
The train hasnt stopped in Marfa for years (in west Texas,
you cant help but hear that as a country-and-western song, This
Train Dont Stop Here Anymore), but now and then a freight
slides by, one mile long and unhaltable as an iceberg, honking
to wake the dead, and certainly the merely sleeping. The driver
of the 6am train so one story goes was left by his wife for a

AFTER FILMING GIANT HERE IN THE 1950S, WITH JAMES DEAN, THE SET WAS LEFT TO DISINTEGRATE,
84

Marfa man, and the insistent blaring of the horn, like a band of
disgruntled harmonica players, is his small revenge.
Its a great leveller, the Food Shark. Orders (all veggie; try
the Marfalafel) are called by the customers name, not number,
whether youve been here 10 years or 10 minutes. Robert Plant
Bob? swung by for lunch, and played at El Cosmico, a
vintage trailer park, where Beyonc stayed when she rocked up.
More recently, R-Patz and Kristen Stewart were spotted here.
This doesnt faze the cowboys. Stars have long been descending;
and most of them end up in the courtyard of the Hotel Paisano,
drinking margaritas beside the fountain. In the 1950s, Elizabeth
Taylor, James Dean and Rock Hudson holed up while lming
Giant on a nearby ranch. Did Taylor, too, oat in its soupy pool,
cooling off in her oral swimming cap, Texan sun dancing

spangles on the water? Afterwards the set was abandoned, left


to disintegrate, ripped to strips by the desert wind, just the frame
of the frame-house framing that sky.
Another ranch was the location for There Will Be Blood (its
one way for these steerless ranches to make money today; others
charge oil-rich playboys to shoot at wild hogs from helicopters).
The Coen Brothers lmed much of No Country for Old Men
here, and even cast the local bank manager, Chip Love, as Javier
Bardems rst victim, shot on the Pinto Canyon Road out of town.
But for most Texans including the border police who, when
they ask the purpose of your visit, cannot believe you are coming
all this way to look at art Marfas main draw is something else
entirely. A very different tourist comes for the Marfa Lights
unexplained, phantasmagorical appearances gathering after
nightfall with their cameras and their packed meals. We crowd

RIPPED TO STRIPS BY THE DESERT WIND, JUST THE FRAME OF THE FRAME-HOUSE FRAMING THAT SKY

Clockwise from left: the


Cheese Parlour art bar and
caf; untitled work by Dan
Flavin at the Judd Foundation;
15 untitled works in concrete,
1980-1984, by Donald Judd;
Marfas radio station; trailer at
El Cosmico; artist Campbell
Bosworth and pet coyote

onto the observation deck, hoping to be amazed, hoping for


affable Martians and extraterrestrial enlightenment.
Theres one of em, right there, look!
Uh, thats a ashlight, honey.
But sure enough, the Marfa Lights do appear. They waver
low over the desert oor, glowing brighter until they are snuffed
out. Even visiting poets get a little bit excited about seeing the
Marfa Lights, though they might not admit it until after a couple
of mezcals at the Lost Horse Saloon, which smells of horses
and cigarettes and is presided over by a pregnant barmaid and a
cowboy with an eye-patch and an all-man moustache. Some talk
of ghosts; the less fanciful put them down, like so many of the
planets most exciting phenomena, to gas.
Perhaps we should be looking higher up. More staggering are
the lights high above Marfa the echoes of old stars, imprints of

a billion galaxies. The skies here are darker than anywhere in the
USA; and the nearby McDonald Observatory is leading the
study into dark energy. In its telescopes you can time-travel, blow
your mind with overwhelming gures and the incomprehensible
concept: the increasing acceleration of the expansion of the
universe, ying away from us in all directions, faster and faster.
On the porch at my pink, 1950s gypsy caravan at El Cosmico,
I watch a full moon rising up out of the Rio Grande Valley with
Mr Mojo Risin on the radio, the perfect soundtrack. Its a Texas
Rose Moon, huge and pink and so bright it casts shadows like
the sun. Even without a telescope you can see the Milky Way.
El Cosmico is full. Long-haired art grads are camping beside
the trailers. Everywhere is full; Marfas popularity is growing
faster than it has space for. Like the universe, its expansion is
accelerating. Planet Marfa: a microcosm of that universe. Of

MARFA IS FULL OF COMMUNITY-SPIRITED FREE-THINKERS, A KIND OF MODERN-DAY BLOOMSBURY GROUP,


86

The legacy of Donald


Judd has been
divided between two
foundations, like
orphaned siblings: the
Judd Foundation and
Chinati Foundation. To
understand the artist
and thus to get under
the skin of Marfa visit
both. Check times or
book a tour; you cant
just wander round.

JUDD
FOUNDATION

MAP: RUSSELL COBB

The extent to which


Judd controlled his
own environment is
extraordinary. He
designed and created
everything himself,
from hand-tooled
leather to the pool in
his live-work space a
full block big, one of
the foundations 15
properties. Judd would
hate to be described
as a minimalist, they
tell you, yet everyone
does, though for a
minimalist he had a
lot of stuff: art, books
(bought in triplicate
so hed always have
a copy to hand) and
furniture early 20thcentury Swedish
pieces and his own
boxy wooden tables
and chairs. So
uncomfortable, one
Marfan says. You can
tell he didnt like people
to stay too long. www.
juddfoundation.org

course, in Marfa, they already have a place called Planet Marfa.


Its got lampshades made from tumbleweeds dyed bright colours,
and a garden with fairy lights in the trees and a tejano band.
As I leave Marfa behind, bound for Pinto Canyon, theres not a
cloud in that big blue sky. Then suddenly, another alarm sirens,
this time, and ashing lights. I pull over, recalling, too late, a
warning about bored border police, over-zealous with speeding
tickets. His mirrored shades reect my apologetic smile.
You missed it! Not a policeman, as it turns out, but a
paramedic the same man Id asked directions from just earlier.
Follow me! And he escorts me, lights still ashing, to the
turning I should have taken, and waves me on my way You
have a really good day now, maam! down a road that
undulates like a fairground slide with views that stretch for ever,
into Judds wonderful, wide-open, big-sky country.

CHINATI
FOUNDATION

Chinati got most of


the art: Judds largescale minimalist works
and installations by
other artists, mainly
on a 340-acre former
army base. In two
monumental artillery
sheds, 100 aluminium
boxes reect back the
light and the landscape
and each other: silvery
altars in a space that
has all the wonderment

and quieting hush of


a cathedral. The heat
makes the metal
roof expand rapidly,
creaking and booming
so that the whole thing
seems to be shifting,
trying to gather itself
and move, like an ark.
There is a row of
U-shaped barracks,
awash with colour
from Dan Flavins light
installations; mess
halls with art by Roni
Horn and Carl Andre;
land art by Richard
Long. Beside the
railway track in town,
a granary is home to a
permanent show of
John Chamberlains
abstract expressionist
jagged sculptures. On
a guided tour, you feel
as though youre being
let in on a secret its
liberating, seeing such
large-scale art without
people in the way, like
having the Sistine
Chapel to yourself.
Between each
building you pause in
the sun, look out over
that endless landscape
beyond Judds cuboid
works in concrete, a
kilometre long. When
the wind drops there
is no sound at all; the
ground teems silently
with ants and lizards;
butteries as big as
books settle on them,

ignoring the do-nottouch signs as did


the antelope that
gave birth inside one.
www.chinati.org

BALLROOM
MARFA

A third foundation is
the fantastic Ballroom
Marfa, which funds
and showcases current
artists. Its housed in a
1927 dancehall: a cool,
white space continually
transformed by the
world-class works
of visiting artist to rival
those in any capital
city. The shop sells
original artworks and
the best souvenirs in
Marfa. The foundation
is working on a major
new project, turning a
nearby park into a
spectacular space for
outdoor performances
and the Ballroom
Marfa Drive-In. www.
ballroommarfa.org

GETTING
THERE

British Airways (www.


ba.com) ies via Dallas
to El Paso, a 200-mile
drive from Marfa.
Better still, do Marfa on
a road trip from Austin
(BA has just launched
ights there) to El Paso.
For full listings, see
cntraveller.com/marfa

PEOPLE WHO DONT WATCH TV BUT INSTEAD WRITE POETRY, START BANDS, MAKE GOATS CHEESE OR JEWELLERY

gone for lunch


little formentera has all grown up. no longer ibizas shy and retiring neighbour, the island has a booming beach-club scene,
some seriously good places to eat, and the best beaches in the mediterranean. by issy von simson. Photographs by chloe mallett

88

Hanging out at Beach Club 10.7, overlooking Migjorn beach on


Formentera. Opposite, the golden sands of Platje de ses Illetes

villas to rent on formentera now come with


polished concrete floors and infinity pools
that spill out to views of that sea, the brightest,
bluest, loveliest sea in all the mediterranean

here is a starter on the menu at


Can Carlos in Sant Francesc that is
just sensational. Its only a gathering
of crudits really, a selection of
plants and greens plucked from
the ground. Baby courgettes sliced
lengthways right through their
middles, miniature carrots with punky
emerald mohicans, slightly bitter purple
curls of radicchio, aniseedy fennel
stripped back like a spring onion, a spear
or two of crunchy sweet asparagus and
shrouds of soft, velvety lambs tongue,
dappled with dew. In the middle, a shot
of tomato-rich gazpacho hides amongst
the vegetable trees. Three small glasses
hold dressings to dip into: tangy Parmesan
cream, a balsamic-vinegar glaze and a

mustard mix, grainy with the pop of


seeds. A liberal snowfall of celery salt
over the top is the nal ourish. Its
the most perfect little raw kitchen garden
imaginable, served under a canopy of
fairy lights on the prettiest terrace.
There is another restaurant on
Formentera that is more famous: Juan
y Andrea at postcard-worthy Platja de
ses Illetes. Its an institution, a destination
lunch spot, that double-cherried ag
billowing and beckoning from the edge
of the beach, drawing in an endless
stream of people from yachts moored
in the glassy water. They come to see
who else is there, to take huge tables
under the white parasols, order jeroboams
of Whispering Angel ros and steaming

paellas, and settle in for the long haul.


When most people say they have been
to Formentera, what they usually mean is
that they have come for lunch at Juan y
Andrea, which is like saying you know
St Tropez after one Sunday blowout at
Le Club 55. But beyond it the rest of the
island unfurls languidly beyond the bright
glare and the bikinis, the mega yachts and
the summertime visits from Jay-Z and
Beyonc, into something altogether more
bohemian and bewitching.
For some curious reason, the food
on this little speck in the Mediterranean,
forever in big sister Ibizas shadow, is
terrically good: organic, fresh, healthy,
exciting, locally grown, lovingly put
together. Not just at Juan y Andrea or at

This page, clockwise from top left: Chezz Gerdi beach club; owers at Casa Daniela, a house to rent outside Sant Francesc; seafood at Beso Beach
restaurant; one of Casa Danielas three bedrooms; sunbathing on Platje de ses Illetes; signpost at Chezz Gerdi. Opposite, bedroom at Casa Daniela
91

modernist mega-houses that cling to


the cliffs at Es Cubells or hug the hillside
above Cala Jondal over on Ibiza. Even
Philippe Starcks home at Es Cap de
Barbria, built 20 years ago, is low-slung
and pared-back. He doesnt even have
air conditioning. A sense of rustic simplicity
runs through everything. Houses are
comfortable, fantastically chic and yet
not too clever, not too over-complicated.
Little hotels or gatherings of apartments
sit right on the beach and they all share
a desaturated look, an artists pallette
of sun-bleached greys, dusty blues, pale
pinks and washed-out greens.

L
Italian owner and chef Franceschino
Manzolis Can Carlos, but all across the
12-mile long island, from the traditional
tapas at Codice Luna at La Mola right on
the very eastern tip to sushi at the Beach
Club 10.7 on Platja Migjorn. The streets
of Sant Francesc, the main hub and its
hardly more than a large village hum
with places to eat. Quirky breakfast spots
including Big Store (for fresh fruit juices
and smoothies) and Ca Na Pepa (for punchy
strong coffee and warm croissants), sit
alongside lunch joints such as Oya (great
pizzas and a shop of pastel-coloured
clothes and retro homeware) and cool
bars for pre-dinner mojitos and Coronitas.
In the most resort-like town, Es Pujols,
on the northern side of the Estany
Pudent lagoon, which is still sleepy and
resistant to bright lights and late nights,
the beachside Can Loca delivers delicious
garlicky bowls of squid-ink spaghetti with
langoustine. And everyone swings by the
dulceria at Boscalina after supper for a
heart-shaped strawberry lolly and the best
view of the boardwalk. All of this with no
fuss and no fanfare, no waiting for a table.

Formenteras low-key vibe has been,


in large part, shaped by the creatives
and free spirits who ocked here in the
1960s and 1970s. This is where Pink
Floyd hung out for months on end, where
Bob Dylan holed up in a lighthouse,
where Joni Mitchell wrote the album
Blue, where Bella Freud spent barefoot
childhood summers and now where Kate
Moss decamps when the Ibiza scene
gets too frantic. Because you dont cross
the water to join the party (although
there are plenty of bars and even a few
nightclubs): this is an escape from the
buzz and the thrum. Yes, the hippy relics
of Goan sojourns and the faint whiff of
incense can be sought out, but there are
ashes of a smart sophistication, too. Villas
to rent now come with polished concrete
oors, scented candles from the Can
Carlos Perfumeria (just around the corner
from the restaurant) and innity pools that
spill out to views of that sea, the brightest,
bluest, loveliest sea in all the Mediterranean,
kept absurdly clear by the underwater,
UNESCO-protected seagrasses that grow
offshore. There are none of those ash

ow-rise dry-stone walls, juniper and


almond trees and purple heathery
scrub divide the at landscape. Once
out of La Savina, the small harbour
where the Ibiza ferry docks, everything
drops away. There is tarmac on the
roads but only the ones that link the
ve main villages. Beyond them, turn left
or right and there are just stony paths or
sandy tracks through the stumpy pines.
Cycle lanes run like tramlines, a parenthesis
to the roads. Girls with nut-brown skin and
long legs pedal along with woven baskets
hanging from handlebars. They wear no
make-up and usually no shoes either. This
is a gentle pottering day-to-day existence.
Two-wheeling from one extraordinary
beach to the next, always with a glimpse
of that lazy tourmaline ripple of water on
the horizon. Swimming and sunbathing are
interspersed with trips to little boutiques
owned by Germans, Swedish, Italians
lots of Italians who came here on
holiday, fell completely head over heels in
love, as visitors to the island tend to do,
and made it a second home, while selling
driftwood bits and bobs, soft linens, rattan
lampshades and hammocks.
Often it is the places that are hardest to
get to that are the most rewarding, but
Formentera is the exception to the rule.
Just half an hour on the speedy ferry from
Ibiza Town and you get all this: some of
the best beaches in the Mediterranean,
softer, squeakier, whiter sand, bluer waters,
quieter corners, lovelier houses, more
delicious food and a pervading sense of
being somewhere that bit more uncharted.
At a time when Ibiza is in danger of
becoming overrun with Hard Rock Cafs
and Nikki Beaches, Formenteras funky
little groove couldnt be more enticing.

Above, the terrace at Beach Club 10.7. Opposite, clockwise from top left: Hotel Es Mares, in the heart of Sant Francesc; queueing for ice creams
at Juan y Andrea; one of the studio rooms at the beachside Talaya hotel; table at Beso Beach restaurant; cocktail hour at Chezz Gerdi beach club,
and cushions to relax on; sunshine at Talaya; on the beach at Chezz Gerdi, on Es Pujol. Centre, outdoor eating at Casa Daniela
92

this is where pink floyd hung out for months on end, where bob dylan holed up in a lighthouse, where joni
mitchell wrote the album blue and is now where kate moss decamps to when the ibiza scene gets too frantic

Day beds and cocktails at


Chezz Gerdi beach club

WHERE TO STAY
Casa Daniela, Cap de Barbaria
Its obvious this house, ve minutes from Sant Francesc, belongs to a stylist
(check out her blog, formenterainlove.net), with its sandy etched walls, leather
buttery chairs, cushion-covered charpoys and triangular swimming pool.
The three whitewashed bedrooms are lit by mother-of-pearl lamps that
tinkle in the breeze like wind chimes, windows are softened with crumpled linen
curtains in the palest dusky pink, rough choppy greys and knocked back
mauves, like favourite sarongs that have been washed and washed to a soft rag.
Outside, rough-hewn benches and tables made from scaffolding planks and
sun beds from wooden palettes face out with views towards Ibiza and Es
Vedra. www.casadanielaformentera.com; from about 355 a night (sleeps eight)

Talaya,Platja Migjorn
A handful of single-storey studios dotted between the palms and the cacti
just steps from the sand, this is a proper beachy bolthole. Simple stoneoored rooms are tted with limed wood furniture, fresh white sheets and
quirky anglepoise-style lamps. Each has a sun-dappled sea view terrace
and a mini kitchen, although fresh croissants are delivered in the mornings
with homemade marmalade. www.talayaformentera.es; studios from 115

Es Ram, La Mola
The most grown-up place to check into on the island. The hotel has
eight rooms in the Chumbera, the main house, but its the freestanding
mini villas that are best for proper peace and quiet. Theres a slate-lined
freshwater pool, bougainvillaea tumbling through the gardens, muslinswathed day beds hidden in the pine trees and stony pathways that
lead down to a private cove. Tucked away as it is, a nippy white Fiat 500
is included in the room rate. www.esramresort.com; doubles from 290;
villas (sleeping four) from 700

Hotel Es Mares, Sant Francesc


Right in the heart of the village, this boutique hotel is a study in white on
white on white, from the Eames chairs and starched tablecloths to the tree
sculptures and sofas in the lobby. The mini spa offers a raft of massages and
an equally diminutive pool is great for a post-beach cool off. Restaurant
staff can verge on surly, but its in a perfect position for eating out anyway.
www.hotelesmares.com; doubles from 155

Paraiso de los Pinos, Platja Migjorn


These terracotta-roofed apartments are clustered round a turquoise pool, a
10-minute stroll from Platja Migjorn. Rooms are crisp, bright and modern,
with smooth tiled oors, whirring ceiling fans and ashes of citrus yellow on
the daybed cushions. The adjoining restaurant, Marlaca (see right), is one of the
most exciting on the island. www.paraisodelospinos.com; doubles from 70

BEACH CLUBS
10 Punto 7, Platja Migjorn
On a completely empty stretch of Migjorn beach, this feels like a
particularly brilliant secret nd. With its clean lines, white directors
chairs and bleached decking underfoot, nothing detracts from the piercing
blue water just below, except the stunning plates of sushi and sashimi
from Osaka-born chef Masahito Kanayama. Late in the afternoon, head
up to the roof terrace with an ice-laden Aperol spritz for uninterrupted
sunset views. www.10punto7.com; lunch for two about 50

MAP: MARIKO JESSE

Beso Beach, Cavall den Borras


One of the more off-the-beaten-track restaurants at Illetes, set in the
dunes just south of Es Moli de Sal, this is a frisky hotspot, with strong
cocktails, a live DJ and lunches that go on long into the night. Theres a
cute little boutique selling massively overpriced but deeply tempting
sequin-covered beach bags, aviator sunglasses and tiny bikinis.
www.besobeach.com; lunch for two about 40

Juan Y Andrea, Illetes


The classic must-visit. Lunch is a people-watching theatrical event, and
the food salt-baked sea bass, lobster stews, grilled gambas is pretty
good too. If you dont book ahead, theres a snack bar, but a 12 salami
baguette is whats on offer. www.juanyandrea.com; lunch for two about 115

Chezz Gerdi, Es Pujols


A short stroll down the boardwalk from the soft sand by Es Pujols, this
is the coolest spot for a sundowner, with its patterned cushioned
day beds, inventive mixologist try the green-tea-and-gin number and
a chilled-out soundtrack. www.chezzgerdi.net; lunch for two about 60

RESTAURANTS
Can Carlos, San Francesc
Run by a smattering of tattooed and pierced girls and boys, the paved
garden, with its wood-burning stove, is the islands most charming supper
spot, and potentially the one place here you should book days ahead for.
www.cancarlos.com; lunch for two about 80

Restaurante Marlaca, Es Mal Pas


An epicurean adventure. The food is gastronomically inventive under
the direction of Ferran Adri-trained chef Mattia Turchet. Theres a
whisky and gin sommelier to make sure aperitifs are spectacular, and a
smart grocery store attached more Daylesford than supermecardo.
www.marlaca.es; dinner for two about 105

Can Dani, Carretera de La Mola Km 8.5


The unassuming exterior belies a wonderfully pretty courtyard within.
Waiters in Breton stripes thrust glasses of Cava into your hands before
you sit, take orders on iPads and serve a tasting menu of Catalan food
with a modern twist. www.candaniformentera.com; lunch for two about 80

Can Toni, Pilar de la Moli


A buzzing tapas bar by the hippy market, lled with a steady stream of
regulars munching on jamon croquettas and listening to the bands that
play twice a week. www.cantoniformentera.com; lunch for two about 55

GETTING THERE
British Airways (www.ba.com) ies three times a day from London to
Ibiza. Trasmapi ferries (www.trasmapi.com) run between 7.30am and
9pm and cost from 32 return. You can hire a car or moped from any
number of outlets at La Savina, where the ferry docks. For villa rental on
the island, contact Bonder & Co (www.bonderco.com)
95

HOT STEPPER

Get all fired up for an otherworldly adventure across the sun-blasted


plains of Namibia. Styled by Fiona Lintott. Photographs by James Meakin

Chiffon top and skirt, both


POR, both Chanel (+44 20
7493 5040). Tokyo leather
trainers, 375, Jimmy Choo
(www.jimmychoo.com).
Whitby-jet necklace, 5,995;
earrings, 1,350, both
Jacqueline Cullen at www.
net-a-porter.com. Astrid
necklace, 230, Fiona Paxton
(www.onapaxton.com).
Nombre dOr scarf (worn
in hair throughout), 325,
Herms (www.hermes.com).
Right wrist, from top:
Whitby-jet cuff, 3,000,
Jacqueline Cullen (as
before). Marta bracelet, 140,
Fiona Paxton (as before).
Resin bangle, 45, Pebble
London (www.pebblelondon.
com). Left wrist, from top:
metal-and-enamel cuff,
1,410, Chanel (as before).
Bronze Juni bracelet, 165;
Marta bracelet, 140,
both Fiona Paxton.
Monochrome bangle, 45,
Pebble London (as before)

Embroidered shirt, 450,


Just Cavalli (www.
harrods.com). Mikado silk
skirt, 240, Aquilano
Rimondi (www.fenwick.
co.uk). Silk tassel earrings,
150; brass Bicone
necklace, 210; silk tassel
Spray necklace, 595; silk
tassel cuff, 595; all Eddie
Borgo at www.liberty.co.
uk. Isis espadrilles, 1,040,
Herms (www.hermes.
com). Opposite, check
sleeveless shirt, 240, worn
over sheer top, 420, both
10 Crosby Derek Lam
(www.neimanmarcus.com).
Wool jacket, 1,275, Chlo
(+44 20 7823 5348).
Embroidered shorts, to
order, Tods (www.tods.
com). Wooden disc
necklace, 145; coconut
slice bangle, 45, both
Pebble London (www.
pebblelondon.com).
Samarkand re-opal ring,
1,400, Alice Cicolini
(www.alicecicolini.com)

98

Wicker lace dress, 1,660,


Stella McCartney (www.
stellamccartney.com).
Wool cape, POR, Louis
Vuitton (www.louis
vuitton.co.uk). Scarf,
from 325, Fendi (www.
fendi.com). Platform
sandals, 450, Marni
(+44 20 7245 9520)
100

Wool poncho, 1,435,


Chanel (+44 20 7493
5040). Cheetah bikini
bottoms, 76, Marysia
Swim (www.marysiaswim.
com). Tokyo leather
trainers, 375, Jimmy
Choo (www.jimmychoo.
com). Opposite, wooland-satin top, 1,585;
silk-jersey skirt, 2,240;
calfskin shoes, 1,125,
all Cline (+44 20 7491
8200). Wooden bangle,
75, Pebble London
(www.pebblelondon.com).
Whitby-jet cuff, 3,000,
Jacqueline Cullen at
www.net-a-porter.com.
Diorganic bracelet with
yellow crystals and resin
pearls, 1,850, Dior
(www.dior.com)

102

Wrap dress, 2,285,


Peter Pilotto (www.
stylebop.com). Wool
cardigan, 1,235,
Emanuel Ungaro (www.
ungaro.com). Socks,
12, Falke (www.falke.
com). Nomad espadrilles,
395, Jimmy Choo
(www.jimmychoo.com).
Raven necklace, 365,
Estelle Dv (www.
brownsfashion.com).
Lizard-skin collar, 625,
Rachel Boston (www.
rachelboston.co.uk).
Whitby-jet earrings,
925; cuff, 3,000;
bangle, 2,500, all
Jacqueline Cullen at
www.net-a-porter.com
104

Leather top, to order, Tods


(www.tods.com). Leather
belt, 276, Toga at Opening
Ceremony (+44 20 7836
4978). Wool-and-angora
skirt, 1,400, Chanel (+44
20 7493 5040). Clutch bag,
565, Emanuel Ungaro
(www.ungaro.com). Freja
necklace, 195, Fiona
Paxton (www.onapaxton.
com), worn over siliconelace neckpiece, 460,
Annelise Michelson (www.
annelisemichelson.com).
Memphis citrine ring, 1,200,
Alice Cicolini (www.
alicecicolini.com). Right
wrist from top, monochrome
bracelet, 45, Pebble
London (www.pebble
london.com). Marta bracelet,
140; Juni bracelet, 165,
both Fiona Paxton (as
before). Left wrist from top,
wooden bangle, 75, Pebble
London (as before). Marta
bracelet in red, Fiona Paxton

Mira cape, 420, BCBG


Max Azria (www.bcbg.
com). Sequin top, 695,
Dolce & Gabbana (+44 20
7659 9000). Silk trousers,
650, Brunello Cucinelli
(www.brunellocucinelli.
com). Raven necklace,
365, Estelle Dv (www.
brownsfashion.com).
Lizard-skin collar, 625,
Rachel Boston (www.
rachelboston.co.uk).
Hair, Halley Brisker at
Jed Root using LOral
Professionnel. Make-up,
Sandra Cooke using
Chanel SS 2014. Model,
Frederikke Winther.
Fashion assistant, Rachel
Ingram. With thanks to
Okahirongo Elephant
Lodge (www.okahirongo
lodge.com). The team
ew internally with Nature
Friend Safaris (www.
naturefriendsafaris.com).
Africa Travel (www.
africatravel.com) offers
seven nights in Nambia
from 3,475 per person,
including British Airways
ights, ve nights full
board at Okahirongo
and two nights B&B at
Olive Grove Guesthouse
in Windhoek. For more
on Namibia, see www.
namibiatourism.com.na
106

The pool at Casa Lecanda in Mrida,


Mexico. Opposite, from top left: the
suite at Coqui Coqui; LOrangerie,
a house to rent in the city; a mezcal
cocktail at Apoala; El Prtico,
LOrangeries sister property
108

SEE YOU ON THE FLIPSIDE


AWAY FROM MEXICOS BRIGHTWHITE BEACHES IS AN ALTERNATIVE PROPOSITION: A

COLOURFUL TOWN OF FADING GLORY THATS NOW ATTRACTING A DYNAMIC CROWD OF CREATIVES.
JOANNA WEINBERG MIXES IT UP IN MERIDA. PHOTOGRAPHS BY AMANDA MARSALIS

MERIDA ISNT PACKED


WITH VISITORS. THE
WHITE HORSEDRAWN
CARRIAGES BEAR
MORE LOCAL FAMILIES
THAN FOREIGNERS
ilapidated but still
grand, the colonial city of Mrida was
once home to the greatest concentration
of wealth in the world. It was the sisal
barons of the 19th century who hired
Parisian architects to build the opulent
villas along Paseo de Montejo, a
wannabe Champs-Elyses. Yet Mrida,
the inland capital of Mexicos beachfamous Yucatn, is not an Important
City and herein lies its charm. It is not
packed with visitors. You never feel you
are trudging the well-worn path of
someone elses Grand Tour. The white
horse-drawn carriages gaudily decorated
with lurid fake owers bear more
Mexican families than foreigners as
they clip-clop along.
Like Havana, for which the city
doubled in the lm Before Night Falls,
the historical centre known simply as

Centro has had a UNESCO makeover.


Its not always easy to spot. While the
cobbled streets are mostly swept, and the
gardens of the Plaza Grande are manicured
and in ower its glossy-leaved trees
sculpted into squat oblongs or perfect
spheres still the tangled wiring of
telephones and electricity hangs low and
wild, and local buses belch black fumes
as they charge down the narrow streets.
There are as many derelict buildings
as there are restored ones. Here a newly
painted white faade with Yves Kleinblue brickwork, there a faded terracotta
one with peeling, panelled shutters. All
are secured by old iron bars. Peer into
a run-down house, with windows
hanging off their hinges, and youll see
impressively proportioned rooms
with intricately tiled oors just visible
through the layers of dust, an overgrown

tropical courtyard and, as an estate agent


might phrase it, bags of potential.
The opportunity to buy into this
fading glamour has been taken up quietly
by mostly American artists and bohemian
sophisticates, including chef Jeremiah
Tower (Alice Waters partner at Chez
Panisse in California) and sculptor and
ceramicist James Brown and his wife
Alexandra. For this reason, Mrida is
a destination to live in rather than visit,
even if thats just for a few days. It is
behind these closed doors that the secret
life of the city takes place. The key to
this domain lies with John Powell of
Urbano Rentals and his restored houses.
Rent one and, if you are lucky, you
may become part of his world. Having
modelled in a previous life in New York
and been a button maker for Herv Lger
in Paris, he came to the Yucatn dreaming

Above from left: Coqui Coqui boutique; a terrace at Rosas and Xocolate. Opposite, from left: LOrangerie in Centro; the bathroom at Coqui Coqui
110

of converting one of the many fading


haciendas, previously the sisal farms, into
a hotel. But the city itself took hold of him.
Days with Powell will unfold in a
joyfully authentic ride through local life.
Breakfast might be buttery croissants
from Escargot, a chandeliered bakery
that could hold its head up on the Left
Bank in Paris, accompanied by segments
of oranges and grapefruit sprinkled with
chilli from a yellow street cart and washed
down with agua de frutas squeezed in a
hairdressers-turned-caf. Lunch could be
the best seafood in town, at Marlin Azul,
a turquoise-walled joint with red vinyl
booths and noisy families tucking into
deep-fried sh llets so fresh they still
taste of the ocean.
At the weekend, he may sweep you
off half an hour down the highway to
swim in a huge pool commissioned by
New York interior designer Laura Kirar
as a surprise birthday present for her

husband, Richard Frazier. It is hewn out


of the rock next to their crumbling
hacienda, now almost reclaimed by the
jungle (they live in the glass-box poolhouse
next to it). Your contribution could be
a smoky, charred chicken and a dish of
melting slow-roasted pork to feast on,
picked up from a roadside shack on the
way (youll know its the right place to
grab lunch if two well-fed policemen are
also standing in the queue).
Then its back to the city, for a party
at the eye-popping home of Puerto
Rican patrons of the arts Csar and
Mima Reyes, designed by expat Cuban
artist Jorge Pardo, where one side of
the internal courtyard is taken up by
a tiled lap pool. Pardos wife, Milena
Muzquiz, half of the performance-art
band Los Super Elegantes, may give an
impromptu lip-synch rendition of a new
track, accompanied by heavily styled
deadpan dancing redolent of Uma

Thurmans twist in Pulp Fiction. You may


end up discussing the merits of avocados
with Nomas Ren Redzepi, a friend of
local molecular chef Roberto Solis, but
by midnight youll all have greasy ngers
from eating cochinita pibil, pork baked
and smoked in the ground and served
lovingly by the house cook.
Its not just the citys expat social life
you get access to. The houses Powell
and his partner Josh Ramos design are
original and fantastically comfortable.
Ermita, a pretty hideaway in the low-key
neighbourhood of the same name, with an
iron four-poster bed and chalky paints in
stony colours, is home to their collections:
decorative Oaxacan bowls in one glass
cabinet, ghoulishly beautiful ceramic skull
sculptures, antique cloth animal toys on
the bedroom shelf. At centrally located
LOrangerie, the colours are soft blues
and pinks, with two terraces and an
arcaded colonnade. Their grandest, El

Prtico, is peppermint and pink, with a


cool stone pool, views of the cathedral
from the roof, and room after room with
stunning Marseille tiling.
At the very least Powell will come
and spend an hour or two with you at the
start of your trip, providing a detailed
guide to the city. Advice, for example,
about what time is best to visit Parque
Santa Lucia to watch couples dancing
to classical salsa (before 11am on a Sunday
and make sure to taste the melting,
fragrant vegetable-and-turkey tacos at Ana
Sabrinas stand), as well as where to go to
have early-evening cervezas and snacks (tiny
Cantina La Negrita for Mexican brews,
chilli-dusted popcorn and often a band to
complete the buzzy atmosphere). And, of
course, where to buy the best hammocks.
If ever youve lusted after a hammock,
this is the town to get one. Meridans are
serious about hammocks most homes
have them indoors as well as outside and
locals are justiably proud of their intricate
weave work. Hamacas el Aguacate is a
family-run shop opposite the house of

some rather beautiful ladies of the night.


Red-lipped and generously bosomed, with
tropical owers in their hair, they will
watch you from their stools as the old man
with bottle-top glasses carefully lays out
the most recent creations made in his
workshop at the back: subtle chocolate
browns matched with smoky greys, hot
pinks clashing with jungle green, singles,
doubles, family-sized ones.

his is not the only shopping


experience in town. Mrida is
where anyone in the state who
has anything to sell and everyone
does congregates. Walk down any of
the main streets in Centro and youll pass
shops with retro typewriters, engine parts,
embroidered blouses from Chiapas and
traditional guayabera shirts of every colour
and style. Panama hats of varying quality
are available from holes-in-the-wall near
the cathedral, theres a huge clothes shop
called Liz Minelli and in the market district
youll nd star-shaped piatas, frilly nylon
girls party dresses and knock-off backpacks.

The central covered market, Lucas de


Glvez, positively hums with inclusiveness.
Ladies with coiled, oiled hair in the back
of cheap shoe shops selling plastic ip-ops
alongside sparkly baseball caps, torches
and sunglasses will be making tacos by
hand from speckled-yellow cornmeal
dough. A line of heavily made-up plastic
baby Jesus statues welcomes equally lurid
shepherds with their plastic ocks.
At the next stand are huge bowls
of stacked chillies: red, orange, yellow but
mostly green, some small and squat and
surprisingly erce next to slimmer ones
that are more likely to be hiding their
heat in their seeds. Pale, lumpy-skinned
courgettes sit next to fat, scallop-edged
squashes, bags of fresh coriander hang in
the corner alongside some kind of fruit
that looks as if its been soaking in syrup
since the dawn of time.
Stagger out into the plaza to have a
cold drink on the bench where the old
ladies sit and youll see Casa Rubio across
the road, with its colourful, stitched
Mexican belts and shirts, cowboy-style

Above from left: the bar at Apoala Oaxacan restaurant in Centro; pastries at Escargot. Opposite, traditional hammocks at Casa Lecanda
112

LADIES WITH COILED,


OILED HAIR MAKE TACOS
BY HAND IN THE BACK
OF SHOE SHOPS

GETTING THERE
British Airways (www.britishairways.com)
ies from Gatwick to Cancn. Mrida is a
four-hour drive away. For more information on
Mexico, contact the Mexican tourist board
through www.visitmexico.com

MAP: NEIL GOWER

WHERE TO STAY
Life doesnt get more splendid than at the ornate
one-suite hotel Coqui Coqui. There are three baths
(one outside), a rooftop pool, a menu of massages
and handmade perfumes and candles in the
ground-oor boutique. +52 999 923 0216; www.
coquicoquiperfumes.com. Doubles from about 275
Colonial-style Casa Lecanda has dark wood,
polished original tiled oors and elegant hammocks
swinging in the courtyard. Theres a proper bar,
large, airy rooms and the hush of grown-up
sophistication throughout. +52 999 928 0112;
www.casalecanda.com. Doubles from about 130
Urbano Rentals offer a collection of the loveliest
houses. Most have pools, courtyards and rooftop
terraces. Check out owner John Powells brilliant
blog www.bestofyucatan.com for information on
what to see, eat and buy. info@urbanorentals.com;
www.urbanorentals.com. From about 75 per night

hats (in kids sizes, too) and over-the-top,


excellent value traditional cowboy boots
in hot pink, orange and white.
Afterwards, we go to the chic Oaxacan
restaurant Apoala on Parque Santa
Lucia, to recover on the terrace. Order
is restored with a seriously delicious lunch
of sea-snail ceviche with buttery avocado,
sharp lime and smoky chipotle, and
charred vegetable salad with fresh tuna
and jicama, the sweet radish relation
that crops up in everything, and a glass
of very cold white wine. Jorge Pardo, his
daughter and, most signicant to our
entertainment, her minute puppy too
small to sit still walk past and then
come in to join us. This is what happens
here; meet someone once and you see
them every day. For Pardo, Mrida was
appealing for lots of reasons. Its an
easy way to feel removed from America
without having to travel too far, he
says. So appealing that in the end he
transferred the familys life to Mrida
and hasnt looked back.
Later that evening, up at the sculpted
concrete rooftop bar in Rosas and
Xocolate, a funky, modern, seriously
pink hotel, I am drinking shots of tequila

and salt-encrusted sangrita, a citrusy,


spicy Bloody Mary-type mix, and having
a debate about where to go for dinner.
Its either world-class gastronomy at
Roberto Soliss restaurant Nectar, or
tacos. After much discussion, we opt for
the tacos at Noche Mexicana, the weekly
Saturday-night street party on Paseo de
Montejo, a few steps down the road.
Street-food vendors and silver and
semi-precious jewellery makers compete
to cluster around the stage, where
performers, including dancing troupes
straight out of Seven Brides for Seven
Brothers, wait in the wings to take their
turn after the resident slapstick duo. The
night ends, late, at La Fundacin
Mezcalera, a bar and club with hundreds
of different tequilas and rough, smoky
mezcals stacked up against the wall
among neon art. The clientele is young,
lounging on velvet sofas. The bar staff are
pierced, the music is jumping, the crowd
primed to let loose on the tiny dance
oor. I leave town the following day, head
ringing, heart lled up by the generosity
of the Meridans. If its true you can only
love a place if you have lived there, I lived
in Mrida and I loved it.

WHERE TO EAT
A tiled corner restaurant, Los Platos Rotos serves
homespun dishes such as tamales and refried
beans in cazuelas (traditional earthenware dishes).
+52 999 925 3097. About 10 for two
When you just cant take any more guacamole,
go for authentic Neapolitan pizza baked in
a wood-red oven at Raffaellos Pizzeria.
+52 999 924 9943. About 10 for two
Its breakfast heaven at Hotel Casa San Angel,
which is fragrant with freshly baked goods, but its
the jungly, painted, Rousseau-esque courtyard
that you eat in which steals the limelight.
www.hotelcasasanangel.com. About 15 for two
At El Principal there are exotic ice creams and
sorbets in avours you cant even translate, including
guanabana, mamey and elote. +52 999 185 0437
WHAT TO DO
Swagger around town like a sisal baron in a horsedrawn caleche; hire one from beside the cathedral.
Join locals for open-air dancing to swing and salsa
bands, with an evening market and food stalls: on
Thursday in Parque Santa Ana, Tuesday in Parque
Santiago and Sunday in Parque Santa Lucia.
The whole Centro closes down on Sunday morning
for the town bike ride, its a multi-generational
affair, with toddlers and grandparents alike.
Learn how to make specialities such as cochinita
pibil at Los Dos cookery school, navigating the
market and ending with a spread you whip up with
the help of chef David Sterling. www.los-dos.com
WHAT TO BUY
Plaza Artesanal Santa Lucia is the best place to buy
crafts at reasonable prices no haggling, please.
Ki Xocolatl sells sophisticated chocolate buttons
in every hue. Its also good for people-spotting over
a cup of velvety hot chocolate. www.ki-xocolatl.com

Opposite, clockwise from top left: a tlayuda (Mexican pizza) at Apoala; a suite at Rosas and Xocolate; the terrace at Coqui Coqui; Rosas and Xocolates pool
115

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A TRAVELLERS TALES

AROUND THE WORLD WITH

MICHELLE DOCKERY
In an unexpected move, the Essex-born actress who plays Lady Mary in Downton
Abbey has taken on Hollywood with a starring role in action blockbuster Non-Stop

Where have you just come back from?


Paris. I love it. I love the people, the
food We went on the Ferris wheel in
the Jardin des Tuileries, which is the kind
of thing I would never think of doing in
London, and it was great.

PHOTOGRAPH: MAX ABADIAN/CORBIS OUTLINE

Name a place that most lived up


to the hype
Venice is so stunning, I felt as though I
was on a lm set the whole time I was
there. Theres an island called Burano,
which you have to visit if you go to Venice,
where every house is a different colour
according to an ancient government
system. Its just so beautiful, I would like
to go back again and again.
Whats your favourite city?
Other than London, I would have to say
New York. I really like the energy, and
the fact that you can get anything you
want at any time. I love its history, too.
Ive been reading Patti Smiths memoir,
Just Kids, and all the stuff about the
Chelsea Hotel made me want to go and
explore that area. I was in the city for
three months lming, and have been there
a lot to promote Downton Abbey. Its a
place I could denitely see myself living.
Which is your road most travelled?
Back to my mum and dads home in
Essex. I dont drive, so I get the train,
and I visit as often as I can.
Describe your favourite view
One of the best is from Highclere Castle,
where we lm Downton Abbey: the

view from the back looking up to the


folly, which is known as Heavens Gate.
I still cant believe its where I work. Its
incredibly beautiful, and I appreciate
something new every year. I almost feel
that I love the surroundings more than
the castle itself.

I WAS IN NEW YORK


WHEN HURRICANE
SANDY HIT. ITS
GIVEN ME A REAL
EMOTIONAL
CONNECTION WITH
THE CITY
Describe a memory from a
childhood holiday
I went to Atlanta, Georgia, when I was 14,
and it was the rst time I had been to
the USA. I went with my granddad to
visit relatives. I think thats why I feel so
much at home in America, because it was
where I went on one of my rst major
holidays. Everything about it is so clear
in my memory: the taste of the food, the
people, and that Southern drawl.
Describe a holiday disaster
I was in New York when Hurricane Sandy
hit, which was quite a surreal experience,
and its given me a real emotional
connection with the city. Its amazing
how people dealt with it. The attitude
of the New Yorkers was so admirable.
Everyone was in it together.

What do you always pack first?


The St Christopher necklace Im wearing.
My mum gave it to me, and I always take
it with me when I travel.
Tell us about a great little place
you know
La Fontaine de Mars in Paris, a typical
bistro where the food is amazing. Its
quintessentially French. If Im in a city,
I want to go to a place that feels right.
In London, I want to go to a pub.
Who is the most interesting person
youve met on your travels?
I went to Jordan with Oxfam to do an
appeal for Syrian refugees. On our last
day we were taken around the sights
by a driver called Abu Fadi, and he was
a really incredible man. He went out of
his way to show us his country. He was
so polite, and his values and traditions
were fascinating. Ill never forget him.
What would you most like to find
in your minibar?
In Soho House, you get a little kit of
painkillers for when youre hungover.
Thats quite a good thing to nd.
How do you relax?
I love reading. Im not really a sunbather,
so I like to lie in a hammock in the shade
with a book. And I just like seeing where
I am. I nd being a tourist relaxing.
Michelle Dockery was speaking to
Francesca Babb. Non-Stop is released
on DVD this month
July 2014 Cond Nast Traveller 119

IN BRITAIN

120 Cond Nast Traveller July 2014

This page, clockwise: grazing


on the banks of the Arun;
ham-hock terrine at The George
at Burpham pub; French Loft
collectibles; sculpture at Zimmer
Stewart Gallery; Spencer
Swaffer Antiques; French Loft.
Opposite, Amberley Castle

OUR SERIES OF INSIDER


UK GUIDES CONTINUES WITH...

ARUNDEL

Gadzooks! This medieval South Downs town has thrown down the gauntlet: who can match its
prowess at cake-making and antique collecting? By Emma Love Photographs by Tara Fisher

IN BRITAIN

y most vivid childhood


memory of Arundel is eating
a picnic of salami rolls with my
history-mad cousins in the
grounds of the castle. There were also
school trips to Swanbourne Lake with
muddy paths and fallen trees to clamber
over and later, when I nally passed my
driving test, a long lunch at the Black
Rabbit pub by the River Arun (I grew up
20 minutes away so whenever any of my
friends got their licence, it was our go-to;
a sign that we were officially grown-up).
Fifteen years on and this tiny market town
really not much more than a high street
on a hill with a cathedral at the top, a castle
and river winding along the bottom and
traditional, black-and-white timber buildings
in between is still, hands down, my
favourite spot in West Sussex. Surrounded
by green elds and parkland, Arundel
might look like a jigsaw scene but there is
also a quiet thrum of dignied cool. The
crowd is a hotch-potch of artists and
creatives who have moved down from
London, farmers and horsey-types, chatty
dog walkers and quirky eccentrics. Classic
cars are parked-up outside the antiques
shops. Cafs are full-to-bursting on a
Saturday morning. And at Christmas theres
an outdoor, festive market where everyone
drinks mulled wine and sings carols by
candlelight. The best time of all to visit,
though, is between 16 and 25 August,
when the Arundel Festival takes over the
town. Then, theres an art gallery trail,
comedy in the old jailhouse, live bands
down by the river and Shakespeare in the
castle gardens under a starry sky.

KING OF THE
WHERE CASTLE
TO STAY

contemporary. Near Arundel (+44 1798


831992; www.amberleycastle.co.uk).
Doubles from 165

and sh-nger sandwiches for lunch.


2729 High Street (+44 1903 882314;
www.swanarundel.co.uk). Doubles from
95. Dinner about 60 for two

HIGH STREET HIT


like entering into some kind of romantic
fairytale. Ten minutes drive from
Arundel, Amberley Castle has manicured
lawns, topiary hedges shaped like
sugar cubes and a pretty courtyard with
angel statues and wrought-iron tables
for supper outside in the summer. The
communal spaces (three small living
rooms and the dining room) are fairly
traditional, but over the past couple
of years more than half its 19 rooms
have been revamped. Gone are the
four-poster beds and dark walls, now
everything feels lighter and far more
122 Cond Nast Traveller July 2014

The Swan Hotel is really a cosy pub


with rooms and the best bet in Arundel
itself. It was spruced up two years ago
and now the 14 rooms, named after local
walks and rivers, have distressed shutters,
hessian rugs on wooden oorboards
and a vaguely nautical theme (paintings
of sailing boats, navy and white striped
cushions). Downstairs, theres a smart
dining room with a long tweed banquette,
mismatched wood and leather chairs,
and vintage signs on the walls. The menu
is hearty pub grub: baked pollock wrapped
in Parma ham, slow-roasted pork belly,

CAMPFIRE TALES
Billycan Camping is denitely more
glamping than traditional camping. Choose
from bell tents (with mattresses, bring
a duvet) or yurts, which come with
beds and wood-burning stoves. Theres a
tipi tent with childrens board games,
a barn with long communal tables and
now a new pizza oven. On Friday nights
everyone gathers round the campre
for organic beef stew with garlic and
rosemary potatoes, followed by toasted
marshmallows. Breakfast the next day is a
hamper with bacon and eggs to fry up

Clockwise from far left: selection of cheeses


at Pallant of Arundel; retro telephones
at Sparks Yard; lemon tart and raspberries at
The George at Burpham pub; Spencer Swaffer
antiques shop; the gardens at Arundel Castle

mini chandeliers hanging above a counter


full of homemade cakes carrot, Victoria
sponge, lemon and blueberry and paleblue-and-white wooden chairs around a
couple of street-facing tables. It looks
small from the outside but pass the Beanocomicstrip-covered doors in the corridor
and theres more seating at the back. Go
for poached eggs at breakfast, paninis at
lunch and toasted crumpets with wildpeppermint hot chocolate in the afternoon.
31 Tarrant Street (+44 1903 882110)

TOP ITALIAN
This is one of the longest-running
restaurants in town and for good reason.
Pappardelle is split into two: downstairs
its a casual osteria with communal
copper tables and racing-green industrial
swivel chairs; upstairs feels more like a
traditional trattoria. There are homemade
pizzas, pasta and salads on both menus,
but the osteria is also open for breakfast,
brunch and lighter bites at lunch the
crushed broad bean, mint, lemon and olive
oil bruschetta is delicious. The restaurant
takes bookings but the osteria is rst
come, rst served (unless its a big group).
41 High Street (+44 1903 882025; www.
pappardelle.co.uk). About 45 for two

SATURDAY NIGHT SUPPER

over the re pit then its a 10minute walk along the river to Arundel.
Manor Farm, Tortington (+44 7766
742533; www.billycancamping.co.uk).
From 245 for two nights in a four-man
bell tent, including a camp stew and
breakfast hamper. Open MaySeptember.
Minimum two-night stay

WHAT
TO
EAT

FRESH FROM
THE FARM

Duck inside under the


low, black-painted doorframe of Pallant of Arundel and breathe
in the smell of fresh bread and cakes.
This deli is stocked with all sorts
of local produce Horshams Regency
gingerbread, Rookery Farm eggs from
Flansham and theres a huge glass

CAFE COOL

The interior of the 16th-century, timberframed building which houses The Bay
Tree is simple, with white walls, doors
painted Farrow & Balls Cooking Apple
Green, wooden tables spread across three
small rooms and white fairy lights strung
up in the windows. Theres lots of lively
chatter and bustling, efcient waitresses.
The Thai-scented sea bass with rice noodles
and saddle of rabbit taste so good that
plates return to the kitchen as though
theyve been licked clean. And the puddings
caramelised banana and Baileys brle,
a wedge of sticky toffee pudding and
white chocolate and raspberry cheesecake
are belt-bustingly sublime. Book in
advance at weekends. 21 Tarrant Street
(+44 1903 883679; www.thebaytreearundel.
co.uk). About 65 for two

Arundel isnt short of cafs but the most


charming has to be one-year-old Berties,
run by ex-BA steward Dean and his sister
Kelly. Named after the family dog, it has a
black-and-white-tile patterned oor, two

Castle Chocolates is an old-fashioned,


family-run sweetshop selling fudge, Belgian

trufes and penny sweets from jars.

counter lled with cheeses, hot sausage


rolls and spinach, feta and pinenut
pies. Next door, Arundel Butchers has
Southdown lamb, sh from Littlehampton
and sausages made from a secret 50year-old recipe. The Arundel Farmers
Market is held every third Saturday
morning of the month: youll nd a
handful of stalls on the high street and
more along the riverbank. Pallant of
Arundel, 17 High Street (+44 1903 882288;
www.pallantofarundel.co.uk)

SUGAR HIGH

IN BRITAIN
GET GARDENING

 Classical music plays in the background


and goodies, from Turkish delight to
chocolate gingers, are beautifully wrapped
in little gold boxes and tied with ribbon.
11 Tarrant Street (+44 1903 884419; www.
castlechocolatesarundel.com)

WHAT
TO SEE
& DO

Pots of lavender and mauve hydrangeas


sit on upturned wooden crates outside
Lavender House & Garden, a stylish
orist and home-and-garden shop. There
are candles displayed on a cream dresser,
baby lemon trees and bunches of pale pink
roses in white tin cans among sky-blue
urns and Annie Sloan chalk paints.
37 Tarrant Street (+44 1903 885596; www.
lavenderhouseandgarden.co.uk)

PUB WALKS

easiest routes involve a pub stop along


the way. For the rst, take the path behind
Arundel Museum (opposite the castle)
and walk for two miles along the River
Arun to the Black Rabbit, whose outside
tables overlook the river arrive early
to bag one. The second is a three-mile,
cross-country walk from Arundel to The
George at Burpham pub. It was bought
last year by 14 families in the village
(By the locals, for the locals, of the locals
is the motto above the bar) and does
seriously good food: pork-and-leek
sausages with spiced curried lentils and
pan-seared cod with lemon oil mash.

ROYAL VISIT
Often the stand-in for Windsor Castle in
lms because of its motte-and-bailey
similarity, Arundel Castle, home to the
Duke of Norfolk, has more than 900 years
of history of its own. Of the main spaces,
the Canaletto drawing room and the
plush, red library with over 10,000 books
are the most impressive. There are four
types of tickets: the most expensive is
Gold Plus at 18, which includes the castle
bedrooms; the cheapest is the Bronze
ticket for gardens and grounds. Dont miss
The Collector Earls Garden which has
thousands of tulips in spring, nine-foot tall
lilies and herbaceous borders with fox
gloves and cornowers. Wander through
the organic kitchen garden listening to
the roosters (the produce is for the family
but whats left is sold; just leave money
in the honesty box and help yourself).
+44 1903 882173; www.arundelcastle.org.
Open 1 April2 November, TuesSun

AFFORDABLE ANTIQUES
Fresh fruit and veg at the Pallant of Arundel deli

more strenuous, go through the gate at


the top of the lake and continue through
Arundel Park.

FEED THE BIRDS


The WWT Arundel Wetland Centre is
a 26-hectare wildlife reserve, where you
can feed Hawaiian geese, squint through
telescopes in the discovery hides and
take a tour on an electric boat through the
marshes. Water voles crunch on the
straw-like reeds, little grebes swim along
carrying their babies on their backs and
red kites and kestrels soar in the sky near
Offham Hangar. Mill Road (+44 1903
883355; www.arundelcastle.org)

WHAT
TO
BUY

ART ATTACK

The exhibitions at the


Zimmer Stewart Gallery
change every four weeks:
one month there might be oil paintings
of the Swiss Alps by Piers Ottey, the next,
abstract, colourful gouache works by the
late Sir Terry Frost. Theres also a back room
with prints by big names (Patrick Cauleld,
Peter Blake) and emerging artists. For
two weeks in August the Arundel Gallery
Trail takes over the town when homes,
gardens, shops and restaurants transform
into galleries selling textiles, ceramics,
photography and sculpture. 29 Tarrant
Street (+1903 882063; www.zimmerstewart.
co.uk). www.arundelgallerytrail.co.uk

Follow the sign (opposite The White Hart


pub on Queen Street) for the old brewery,
which has been split into three separate
antiques warehouses: Nass Interiors and
Arundel Eccentrics, which counts Liberty
and Firmdale hotels as customers;
Harmony Antiques, and French Loft, the
best of the bunch. Run by down-to-earth,
knowledgeable Rowland Leach (who
wears shorts whatever the weather), its
full of gorgeous French and industrialstyle pieces. 2a Fitzalan Road

QUIRKY HOMEWARE
Sparks Yard is a bit like a mini department
store. Stock includes kitchenware and
retro signs and on the top oor is the new,
Californian-themed restaurant The Loft.
Just down the road, Rare Rabbit sells
Scandi homeware labels, wooden toys, and
jewellery. For all things Provenal and
rustic painted mirrors, rafa bags head
to Vintage Maison opposite. Sparks Yard,
18 Tarrant Street (+44 1903 885588)

SOMETHING OLD AND NEW


Zoe and Judy Newhouse, the motherand-daughter owners of Dinky Donkey
Delights, started selling their upcycled
and reupholstered furniture and homeware
on the Arundel Gallery Trail in 2010.
Earlier this year, they opened up a shop.
The pair scout ea markets and car-boot
sales for rocking chairs, kitchen dressers,
stools and x them up. They also sell
new items and make cushion covers from
Emily Bond fabrics. Garden Studio, 30
King Street (+44 7801 296006)

GO BOATING

BEJEWELLED TREASURE

KITCHEN KIT

If its a sunny day, you can hire a boat


and row across Swanbourne Lake and
buy feed for the ducks from the ice-cream
kiosk. Or stroll around it in about 20
minutes or so. The pebbly path climbs up
at rst but its easily do-able with little
ones and a buggy. For something a bit

Glass shelves with neat stacks of colourful,


patterned scarves, Moroccan slippers, cotton
robes and suede handbags are mixed with
mirrored displays of eclectic jewels at
the JAM Gallery. Prices range from 3.50
for a bangle to 320 for a ligree silver
bracelet. 47 High Street (+44 1903 883939)

Kilner jars, slate-grey enamel recipe boxes,


wooden chopping boards: these are the
kind of practical, timeless items stocked at
Per la Cucina kitchen shop. Its also good
for polka-dot mugs, coloured drinking
glasses and all sorts of wooden spoons.
24 High Street (+44 1903 885333)

124 Cond Nast Traveller July 2014

GREECE

HIDDEN GEMS 2014

T RAVELLER PROM OT ION

Gods

Gift

History, culture, nature, nurture: some places are,


quite simply, blessed. Halkidiki, Greece, is one of them

erhaps its the heady combination of scented


pines mingling with the seas salty brine,
or the unique evening light slanting across
the rugged mountainsides. Perhaps its the
overwhelming sense of history, or the thought that
one of the worlds greatest minds Aristotle was
born of this place. Whatever it is, there is undoubtedly
something very special about Halkidiki, Greece and
its surrounds.

IMAGES: COURTESY OF HALKIDIKI HOTEL ASSOCIATION AND ORGANISATION OF MOUNT ATHOS AREA

authenticity assured
This is a region that oozes Greek charm. Walk the
coastline and around every corner youll stumble upon
yet another glorious beach: a romantic cove tucked
behind a headland, a peaceful harbour dotted with
traditional shing boats or a bustling port complete
with cosmopolitan bar. With three peninsulas splicing
through the Aegean Sea, theres a new setting for every
sunrise and sunset. Cruise along Kassandras coast
and imagine its mythological Battle of the Giants;
wander the coastal paths of Sithonia, juxtaposed
between bountiful orchards and aquamarine seas.
Or gaze in wonder at Mount Athos, the worlds only
monastic state, where cliff-top monasteries encapsulate
the 1,000-year-old architecture of Byzantium.

surrounded by mountains
Indeed, Halkidikis great beauty lies in the sheer
diversity of its bounties and in the bounties all around
it. From Halkidiki it is a short hop to Thessaloniki
and from here to a multitude of Grecian marvels.

Head to the unique wetlands of Lake Kerkini, a


protected water world of wild willow forests, wading
buffaloes, shifting carpets of water lilies and inland
ponds surrounded by the mountains of Belles and
Krousia. To the east of Thessaloniki lies Thassos,
whose lush forests have earned it its reputation as
the Emerald Isle (a short ferry ride away in Kavala
check out the Imaret (hostel) for a breathtaking place
to stay). And all around the region lies a lost world
of mountain villages: the Petralona cave, home to
the 700,000-year-old skeleton of Europes most
ancient man, the Archantrope; the archaeological
site of Vergina, burial site of Alexander the Greats
father; the city of Veroia, and endless magnicent
vineyards overowing with fat grapes ourishing in
the sunshine. Their delicious produce can be savoured

Clockwise from top:


One of Halkidikis beautiful
beaches; Typical sh dish of
the Mount Athos area; View
of Halkidikis romantic coves;
a shing boat comes to rest
on the white sand of a
Halkidiki beach

at a multitude of
welcoming tavernas
(picture it: a setting
sun, a glass of vino in
hand, sand between
your toes and the sea
lapping just inches
from your table). Or head to one Halkidikis ve-star
retreats, such as Danai Beach or Sani Resort, and
settle in for sun, sea, sand and sensory spa experiences
taken to truly Mount Olympus levels.

For more information visit visitgreece.gr

HEALTH MONEY

2014

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Birch will explore what
will replace it and how.

James Glattfelder is calling


for a richer understanding
of the interactions that
comprise the economy.

Annette Heuser envisions


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online banking. Lee Sankey
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VENUE
PARTNER

THE EXPERTS

This months Family Health Food Books Advice


EDITED BY ISSY VON SIMSON

When Nina Parkers not munching on a bag of praline chocolates from La Pause Douceur or galloping through the Place des Lices with a string
bag stuffed full of aubergines, plump peppers and basil plants, the 28-year-old cookery writer (her rst book Nina St Tropez is just out) and
professionally trained chef (shes worked at Alain Ducasse at The Dorchester, The Ledbury and Locanda Locatelli) can be found, wooden spoon
in hand, tinkering over Provenal recipes in her kitchen. Parker has been holidaying in St Tropez every summer since she was tiny (her parents
met here) but its for work that she comes now, be it whipping up tomatoey-fresh bouillabaisse for lunch parties on yachts, organising lobster and
king prawn barbecues on Pampelonne beach or canaps and cocktails on rooftops in town. Shes the go-to girl for simple, charming and, most
importantly, properly delicious table-fulls, whether catering for two or for 200. However small or big the bash, Parker focuses on the little details,
creating a one-off playlist and giving all the guests a going-home present gooey-centred meringues, perhaps sticky nougat, or a bag of almond
brittle tied up with pale grey ribbed ribbon. And if her buddy Drummond Money-Coutts, the card-wielding magician, is loitering on the Cte dAzur,
hes been known to pop his head in and do a trick or two. +44 7867 541571; www.ninafood.com ISSY VON SIMSON
July 2014 Cond Nast Traveller 127

PHOTOGRAPH: IVAR WIGAN

WHAT YOU WANT A private chef in the South of France


WHO YOU NEED British newcomer Nina Parker

THE EXPERTS... GADGETS

GEEK GEAR

By George Duffield

One dreary thing about travelling with your gadgets is having to bring all their
plugs and cables and chargers with you. But here are four items that you will
actually want to pack: stuff that will make life easier, better and more fun.

CORSAIR
VOYAGER AIR

A bit ashy, but who wouldnt want


to go to the beach with a briefcase
barbecue (pictured above)? And,
every time you buy one, a donation
is made to the charity theatre
Chickenshed. Even if you cook a
chook. www.mygoodness.com; 205

Its almost unheard of for the Geek


to be given a new toy he hasnt
heard about. But this is exactly what
happened with the Corsair Air, an
extraordinarily useful hard drive
that holds 1 terabyte (thats 1,000
gigabytes). It generates its own
Wi-Fi eld and can stream ve
independent HD video signals to
any iOS or Android device. In
practice this means that ve unruly
children can watch ve different
movies on ve different gadgets
without disturbing you in the
slightest. And you no longer have to

CALYPSO TAG
An intelligent baggage tag. When
your bags nally arrive on the
carousel, this transmits a
Bluetooth signal to your iPhone
from up to 100 metres away.
www.calypsocrystal.com; 89

128 Cond Nast Traveller July 2014

agonise over which lms to squash


into your iPad memory: bring them
all. www.corsair.com; 219

SECRID WALLET
The Geek is quite disconcerted
by the contactless pay points
appearing everywhere. Do you
realise that this means machines
are reading data off your cards
without you doing anything
about it? Precisely! So the Secrid
wallets have two nifty tricks.
First, they block this sort of
scanning. Second, they pop the
cards out in really a cool way.
www.secrid.nl/en/; from 49

ILLUSTRATION: HEATHER GATLEY

MON ONCLE
BARBECUE BRIEFCASE

T RAVELLER PROM OT ION

aegeangem

A new-generation eco utopia, Sani Resort provides


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possibilities exist for all the family to explore nature,
try something new or just kick back and relax
magine that well-balanced family holiday: a care-free
few weeks that stimulates and rejuvenates. Then add
the luxury, attention to detail and barefoot postsunset cocktails you thought youd left behind when
two became three. Thats exactly what youll nd at
Sani Resort. Part upscale yacht marina, part eco
retreat, part adventure mecca, its the hybrid
Mediterranean destination that exceeds all
expectations.

Clockwise from top:


Swimming pools at
Sani Beach Hotel;
Two-bedroom family
suites at Sani Beach Hotel;
Junior Suite at Sani Beach
Club; Ammos Bar
and Restaurant

Encompassing four ve star hotels, Sani Resort sits


on the Kassandra Peninsula in Halkidiki, northern
Greece. Framed by the crystal waters of the Aegean,
with Mount Olympus as an imposing backdrop, a bird
sanctuary and ve miles of honey-hued sands across six
beaches, this 1,000-acre private eco-reserve is where
rugged nature and impeccable service are the
hallmarks of your stay. The two most family-friendly
hotels are the Sani Beach Hotel and Sani Beach Club.
Sister address Porto Sani Village shifts its focus to

READER OFFER

Sani Resort offers booking discounts of up to


20% for various 2014 dates with up to two children
under 12 staying free at three out of its four properties.
Local airport transfers are complimentary for online
bookings of 5 nights or more.
Visit saniresort.com/cnt2014 for more details

wellbeing, while the boutique Sani Asterias Suites


is ideal for privacy-seeking couples.
Brand new at Sani Beach Hotel are the beachside,
two-bedroom family suites, offering a super
abundance of space. In fact, all rooms there have
been renovated and ooze contemporary, colonial
cool. Dining also becomes more dynamic with the
addition of live cooking zones at sophisticated
Veranda Restaurant and the casual Grill by the Pool.
The new innity pool is the ideal spot to take a sunset
dip as you admire the amber-illuminated horizon.

Where the resort truly excels is in its child-friendly,


adult-conscious details and services. All four hotels
offer the Melissa Crche, Mini and Teenagers Clubs
and the Babewatch beach service (June-October),
which allows parents complimentary 30-minute
breaks from childcare courtesy of Ofsted
standard specialists.
The parental Im bored nightmare just isnt in
evidence here. The activity options are seemingly
inexhaustible: prepare Greek cuisine together in the
new family cooking lessons, or enrol the kids in a mini
triathlon. Cultivate the kids natural interests with a
tour around Sani Farm or some bird-watching
in the wetlands. While mums can try a spot of paddleboard yoga or indulge in a spa treatment while the rest
of the family scuba dive, wakeboard, sail, mountain
bike or join the Football Academy.
Thats not the only way to keep the holiday rightfully
yours. The Garden Theatre makes catching a show
effortless and live music at Dunes Bar will reignite your
party spirit. The new Byblos Caviar restaurant at Porto
Sani Village serves the worlds nest caviar. Label-lovers
will enjoy perusing the boutiques at Sani Marina
including Ralph Lauren, Barbour and Diesel.
Sani Resort is a 45-minute drive from the
Airport at Thessaloniki Greeces second
largest city and a vibrant cosmopolitan
metropolis. For more information on the hotel
and summer arts festival (during June and July)
visit saniresort.gr and sanifestival.gr

THE EXPERTS... FAMILY

EUROPEAN VILLAS
For a family holiday, a villa is
hard to beat, with space, privacy and
the opportunity to just loll about
unnoticed. Here are four of our favourite
retreats for you and your clan

On the wild atlantic coast, an hour


and a half from Bordeaux, is a awless
wilderness where the dramatic, shifting
sand dunes of Les Landes are knitted
with grass and held fast from the west
winds by a dense stretch of pine trees.
Here, in Vielle Saint-Girons, is
a hunting lodge, built in 1859, that
sings with colonial charm in its current
incarnation as the beach residence of
French chef Michel Gurard and his wife
Christine, owners of spa hotel Les Prs
dEugnie. You feel like a private guest
of the family as you waft around the
understated yet stately main house. Huge
oil paintings gaze down and an antique
desk demands whimsical note-writing.
The heat of the afternoon is best escaped
by opping on a daybed, little legs ung
across laps, everyone half-dozing. Guests
sleep in two unassuming, sun-bleached
former boathouses with equally grand
decor; the marble bath is the size of
a Parisian pool. Sit in the shade of the
veranda and you can wolf down on
Brittany lobster to the sound of crashing
waves. Chef Vincent has worked under
Gurard for four years and creates
exquisite dishes with a shy smile, while
hostesses Claudine and Josephine attend
to all other needs. Bicycles for a ride after
breakfast? Picnic in a paper bag? Kids
suncream? Every request is greeted with
a heartfelt mais oui. The Wi-Fi here
is patchy, but that wont bother you.
Youll be too busy racing over the dunes,
combing the beach for shells, cycling along
forest tracks, collecting giant r cones and
building bracken dens, before regrouping
at sunset for a Champagne aperitif.
Book it +33 5 58 05 06 07; www.
michelguerard.com. From about 5,420
for four adults and three children for
two nights, full board
130 Cond Nast Traveller July 2014

REVIEWS BY: DAISY FINER; LYDIA GARD; SASHA KENT; EMILY MATHIESON
PHOTOGRAPH: NICK CORNISH

Les Maisons Marines


dHuchet, Les Landes

Can Totxa, Mallorca

Villa Melissa, Tuscany

Usually, the first text message


you receive after touchdown is
from your network provider,
informing you of the inated
charges youll incur for any form
of communication while abroad.
Here in Mallorca, it will come
from your nanny for the week,
saying, Hello, Im waiting for you
in arrivals. This means no searching
for the car-hire desk (shell take you
straight to it), no racking your brains at
the airport caf for the Spanish word
for banana (she brings snacks) and,
best of all, no map-reading, so no
arguments. When you put yourself in
the care of tour operator Scott Dunn,
you dont really have to think about
anything. The companys villas are
run like mini ve-star hotels and the
staff are brilliant at eliminating hassles
(theyll even provide nappies and
pushchairs). Built in the style of

Halfway between florence and


Rome is the tiny hamlet of Fighine,
a medieval masterpiece with an
11th-century castle, tiny church,
cypress groves, and ve exquisite
but simple village houses to rent
(together, they sleep 30 people).
The largest of these, Villa Melissa
is wonderfully private and has
masses of space and character,
striking the perfect balance between
grand and cosy. The stone-oored
hall has a vast replace, with antlers
and princely pictures on the walls,
and the dreamy top-oor master
suite comes with its own sitting
room and views over the hills.
Downstairs, there are two pretty
twin bedrooms and one double,
a tiny terrace and a laundry room
where you can keep on top of
domestic issues. Not that you need
to do much: cheery cleaners bustle
in every morning to make things
spick and span (linen and towels
are changed mid-week) and the
chef will conjure up epic jars of
pesto and tomato sauce. You do
have to walk for a few minutes to
reach the swimming pool, but its
all yours and is heated to perfection.
Little children will love the tinkling
marble fountain, too. If you should
tire of home cooking, theres a
superb, Michelin-starred restaurant
on-site, managed by Heinz Beck,
with tables laid out beneath
a gorgeous, wisteria-covered pergola.
Its almost preposterous that
a restaurant of this calibre should
be on the doorstep of your villa.
And it can deliver poolside.
Book it Bellini Travel (+44 20 7602
7602; www.bellinitravel.com) offers
a week at Villa Melissa from 4,500

a traditional Mallorcan farmhouse, Can


Totxa has four bedrooms and comes
fully staffed. Theres a hostess, an
accomplished chef, an array of maids
and gardeners, and the aforementioned
nanny wholl organise activities during
the day and babysit at night. Food
is all-inclusive fancy-as-you-like
suppers for adults, and healthy turkey
nuggets and proper fries for kids
as is the alcohol. There is a limit,
but apparently few people reach it.
Book it Scott Dunn (+44 20 8682
5040; www.scottdunn.com) offers
a week at Can Totxa from 9,730,
full board, including staff

Annas House, Paxos


This is not a place for those who like
to be greeted on arrival by a waiter
bearing fruit-frosted cocktails; the
beauty of Annas House is its rustic
simplicity. It has four bedrooms: three
in the main house and one in a little
annexe. Theres a large swimming pool
with a diving board, ping-pong under
the olive trees and, on another
sun-dappled terrace, a huge white
hammock. You also have the services
of a cook, Ourania, who wraps vine

leaves around feta and spinach, stuffs


aubergines with shamefully caloric
llings and then, after youve feasted,
appears with her accordion and sings
and plays for you. The Italian owners
have provided simple comfort without
compromising on heritage. Which
means air-conditioning in each
bedroom, but no Frette linen.
Book it Scott Williams (+44 1749 812
721; www.scottwilliams.co.uk) offers
a week at Annas House from 5,357

THE EXPERTS... FEASTING

BURRATA
By Joanna Weinberg

Your travel fantasy may be a hut on


stilts over a turquoise sea, a treehouse
in the deepest jungle or the penthouse
of a city hotel with a map of humming
streets unfolding below. Heres mine:
a huge table shaded by a wisteriawoven pergola, laid generously under a Mediterranean sky,
a party gathered around.
There is something about the laden table that sings a story
more elaborate than it appears to be; a long lunch means a lazy
afternoon that drifts into evening for that, you must be on
holiday. And do you know why my fantasy beats all others? All
that stands between me and recreating it at home is a good
grocer and a sunny day.
This is the time of year when, nally, cooking
morphs into assembly. Heavy casserole pots can
go to the back of the cupboard in favour of
rustic platters and uneven wooden boards,
herbs are happy to grow outside again, and
your table becomes a wonderland of
last-minute possibility.
Choose your star: mine, whenever
possible, is burrata. The vestal virgin of
Italian cheese is made of scraps of the most
delicate buffalo mozzarella with extra cream
folded in. Keep your eyes peeled for it youll
see it in good delis from time to time, a

Drink me

distinctive white ball with a little topknot, traditionally wrapped


in asphodel leaves. Dont try to cut it open; instead, pull it apart
with your ngers to expose the rich, creamy heart. It should be
eaten completely unadorned, apart from perhaps a few drops
of oil and a turn from the pepper grinder, within a day or
two of being made. Stick with the Italian store cupboard and
more or less anything will go with it.

This months recipes


Slices of transparently thin Parma ham over the ripest melon or
white peach. A salad of rocket, mint, blanched broad beans and
torn black olives perhaps, dressed with lemon juice. A plate of fat,
deep-pink tomatoes, still warm from the sun, sliced and scattered
with basil, salt, pepper and olive oil, nothing more. A platter
of bruschetta: toasted stale crusty loaf (preferably
sourdough) rubbed with garlic, a couple of anchovy
llets laid over the top. Cannellini beans heated
with garlic, olive oil, lemon juice, saltand pepper,
and mashed to a rough pure. Whisper-thin
folds of fennel salami accompanied by a
fennel bulb, rst blanched in salted, boiling
water, then sliced and chargrilled in a ridged
pan, with yet more olive oil the brightest
green, most fragrant you can nd. A salad of
nely sliced radish, celery, cucumber and curls
of Parmesan, scattered with celery leaves.
Summer on a plate.

By Malcolm Gluck

The abundance of Mediterranean delights


described above behoves the provider of
wines to provide equally mouthwatering
Mediterranean liquids. This rules out
Burgundy and Bordeaux as much as it does
South Australia, the Cape, Hawkes Bay, Napa and Casablanca
(the Chilean one). If we stick this month to wines grown in areas
with a Mediterranean coastline, we can
consider Provence (Bandol springs to mind),
the Languedoc (Corbires) and much of
Italy (the prime candidate being Tuscanys
littoral upstart Morellino di Scansano). We
might also think of the Meds most versatile
food-friendly wine, retsina. However, I have
chosen to go to Spain, Catalunya in particular.
At the basic level, the wine for our
alfresco feast could be a simple ros, fresh,
young and fruity, able to sit alongside that
burrata without blushing further (for the wine would be served
in unpretentious chilled earthenware pots). But what is required
here is something altogether rarer, more sumptuous, evocative
and extraordinary. With such a glass of wine under your nose,
and with your eyes closed, you should sense the richness of the
Mediterranean civilisation that created it. Wine like this is not

everyday and does not come cheap. It is designed to thrill the


palate not tickle the pocket. My chosen wines are a pair: a stunning
white, an imperious Chardonnay of a complex suppleness
sufcient to put many a white-Burgundy grower charging the
earth to shame; and a sleek red, a Cabernet Sauvignon of a texture
which the greatest of Bordeaux chteaux do not always achieve
even in a perfect year. They are among the most couth and richly
provocative young wines I have tasted in 2014.
The white is Milmanda 2011. The red is
Mas La Plana 2009. Both come from the
Catalan producer Torres, not only Spains
largest private wine producer but easily (and
modestly) its most innovative. The Milmanda
2011 costs around 34 online at Vintage
Marque (www.vintagemarque.com) but the
2010 vintage, which is almost in the 2011s
class, is more widely available at the same
retailer, plus Waitrose and Imbibros (www.
imbibros.co.uk). Mas La Plana 2009 sells for about 41 and is
available at Fenwick, Hedonism (www.hedonism. co.uk) in
Londons Mayfair, Imbibros, The Oxford Wine Company (www.
oxfordwine.co.uk) and an outt new to me called Wined Up Here
of Kingston-upon-Thames (+44 20 8549 6622). No, I did not
make that last stockist up. I lack the wit (and the bottle).

With a glass of
this wine under
your nose, you sense
the richness of the
civilisation
that created it

132 Cond Nast Traveller July 2014

ILLUSTRATIONS: HEATHER GATLEY PHOTOGRAPH: CARMEN TROESSER/STOCKFOOD

Eat me

ELOUNDA GULF VILLAS

Villas & Suites


ELOUNDA CRETE GREECE

Greek
blue

Clockwise from top: a private pool, Elounda


village, authentic cuisine, villa bedroom, massage under the olive trees, private infinity pool

Experience a Home away from Home and


relax in the unparalleled luxury of Greeces Top Boutique Villa-Hotel
Only a short flight from UK, Elounda Gulf Villas & Suites is
the ultimate address for a memorable getaway. A member
of Small Luxury Hotels of the World and winner of Greeces
Leading Villa award this stylish boutique Villa-Hotel provides
a unique blend of exquisite design and splendid accommodation. The 18 chic villas are all blessed with magnificent
views over the Med and private pools, while the 10 elegant
Suites are decorated individually with a warmth privacy and
exclusive atmosphere. For couples seeking total relaxation,
the 5 brand new Junior Suites with private pools and massage rooms, due to open this Summer, are the ideal choice.

Dining at the resort can be enjoyed in 3 restaurants where


a delicious choice of Cretan, W UMediterranean and international dishes are available.
All guests have access to the Elixir Spa Gallery where treatments are based on the famous Cretan olive oil are on
offer. For little guests the Hotels Kids Club and playground
will be available soon. For a truly authentic Cretan experience, Hotels team can arrange activities like olive oil harvesting, beehive, cooking lessons in the Villa with a private
chef and many more! What else would you ask for?
EGV is indeed the ultimate Mediterranean retreat!

Book early to take advantage of our summer offers. Quote CN14 when making your request.
To book or for more information contact
Elounda Gulf Villas & Suites - Elounda, Crete, Greece
T: +30 2810 227721, UK Reservations: 0871 990 3010

info@eloundavillas.com www.eloundavillas.com

Awarded

Member

Winner

Winner

THE EXPERTS... BOOKS

BEST NEW TRAVEL TITLES

By Giles Foden
An Empire of the East
Travels in Indonesia

THE

norman lewis

A Memoir of Empire

SET TING
and Family Secrets

SUN
bart
moore-gilbert

Ought one walk alone?


Nietzsche, Thoreau and
Rousseau all thought so.
These are among the
many writers discussed
in Frdric Gross
A Philosophy Of Walking.
For Gros, it isnt just a
matter of nding your own
rhythm on a solitary walk,
or of being more in
sympathy with nature, but
that a special relationship
evolves between mind and
body. Other topics include
freedom, slowness and
pilgrimage; the last is a hot
theme in publishing, with
new books about routes
such as the Camino de
Santiago in Spain and the
pilgrim diet. You heard it
here rst. Verso, 14.99

Gross book, left, deals cleanly


with abstract issues, and
perhaps that is typical of the
French approach. For a more
typically Anglophone narrative
showing what its like to walk
in practice, with reportage,
history and memoir, Patrick
Bakers The Cairngorms:
A Secret History is perfect.
Describing walks which trace
the routes of streams and
rivers, reveal jewel mines and
uncover wrecked aircraft, he
takes us across the landscape
of Britains last great
wilderness, travelling back and
forth in time and space. Some
of the best moments are when
Baker explores ruined bothies
and rough shelters called
howffs, full of the ghosts of
walkers past. Birlinn, 9.99

Now a professor of
Postcolonial Studies, Bart
Moore-Gilbert grew up in
Tanganyika (now Tanzania) in
the 1960s. The Setting Sun:
A Memoir Of Empire And
Family Secrets describes
how a revelatory email from
a fellow academic prompted
Moore-Gilbert to research
his late fathers life as a
colonial policeman in India.
His investigation unfolds like
a detective story as he crosses
India, interviewing police
and former independence
activists, and learns more of
his fathers part in the violent
repression of nationalist
uprisings. The result is
a powerful, moving enquiry
into personal identity and the
end of Empire. Verso, 14.99

THE GREATEST BOOK ON EARTH


Robert McCrum nominates Three Men In A Boat by Jerome K Jerome
Humour in literature is
often not taken as seriously
as it deserves. Nevertheless,
there are a few seriously
funny books that remain
great for all time. Three Men
In A Boat is one of
these. Ostensibly
the tale of three
young city clerks
on a boating trip to the upper reaches of
the Thames an account that sometimes
masquerades, against its will, as a travel guide
it hovers somewhere between a shaggy-dog
story and late-Victorian farce, leavened with

134 Cond Nast Traveller July 2014

some immortal passages of sublime natural comedy.


Whats the book about? Jerome K Jerome would
probably say his little masterpiece was about one
hundred and fty pages, but I would argue that it
is about the cameraderie of youth, the absurdity
of existence, tinned food, camping, playing truant,
and the sweet memories of lost time. You
could also read it as an elegy for imperial
Britain. Did I omit to mention that it also
features a dog named Montmorency? In
short, its about everything and nothing.
Like all the greatest comic writing.
Robert McCrum is the author of
Wodehouse: A Life and an associate
editor of The Observer

It seems incredible that


Norman Lewis, whom
literary critic Cyril
Connolly described as
being so a good stylist
as to make a lorry
interesting, has been
dead for over 10 years.
He seemed like one
of those writers who
would go on for ever,
and in a way he did,
producing remarkable
travel books and novels
over the course of 40
years. Among his last
works was 1993s An
Empire Of The East:
Three Journeys Into
Indonesia, which
recounts trips to
Sumatra, East Timor
and Irian Jaya with
his son Gawaine and
Gawaines friend Robin.
Now reissued, it tells
of the decimation of
the rainforests and
of domination by
Javanese generals. Yet
what you take away
from it is the wryness of
incidental observation.
Theres a very funny
moment when three
veiled Islamic girls,
descending from a
four-wheel-drive, wolfwhistle at Gawaine and
Robin. Eland, 12.99

T RAVELLER PROM OT ION

luxe
is the word

Europes Grand Duchy enchants


its visitors from the start
s a small country of just 998 square miles,
it doesnt take long to get around Luxembourg,
and it takes even less time to be utterly enchanted
by it. Just a short trip from London from where
there are several daily ights the country known as the
Green heart of Europe promises forests, fairytale
castles and fashionable city living.

easily found in the turreted Grand Ducal Palace


(home to the reigning monarch) or the gems of the
Old Town seen from the iconic Chemin de la
Corniche promenade, the city proudly showcases
sparkling modern architecture in the Kirchberg
business district and IM Peis geometrically
designed Museum of Modern Art.

Situated between Belgium, France and Germany, the


Grand Duchy of Luxembourg has long been a vital
piece of the tapestry of Western Europe. Its majestic
and leafy capital, Luxembourg City, perched on a
promontory above the Alzette and Ptrusse rivers,
was once a prized fortress consecutively possessed
over nine centuries by Roman emperors, kings
and counts. Each century left layers of fortication
in the magnicent Old City, now heralded as a
UNESCO World Heritage Site.

The discerning residents of the capital many


of whom speak up to four languages, including
English enjoy exceptional shopping and cuisine.
The city has the worlds most concentrated
constellation of Michelin-starred restaurants (both
French and international) together with a cluster
of ptisseries to rival Europes nest. Here, the
retail experience encompasses all the best brands
but in the charming environs of historic buildings.
Commerce and cosmopolitan living are
inextricably linked in Luxembourg City.

Today, this diminutive country exudes a global


presence as a nancial powerhouse and is partly the
seat of the European Parliament. Luxembourg City
thrives on the duality of old and new; while tradition is

The remaining four regions of Luxembourg are


distinct by their natural beauty. Highlands and
valleys characterise the Ardennes in the north,

home to romantic Chteau de Vianden; dense


woodlands and bizarre rock formations span Mullerthal
in the east where Echternach, the countrys oldest city,
lies; the Moselle in the south-east features picturesque
vineyards, while the souths Red Rocks terrain is
resolutely rugged. Remarkably, all these landscapes
exist within just 30 minutes of the capital city.
To visit Luxembourg is to truly know it.
For more information visit
visitluxembourg.com

Clockwise from top:


Bourscheid Castle;
Luxembourg City Old
Town; Fortications,
also in the city;
Philharmonie
Luxembourg
concert hall

THE EXPERTS... HEALTH

THE FOCUS

AFRICAN SPAS
Nowhere brings you back
to yourself quite like
Africa; a land of wide-open
horizons, crazy-beautiful
light, the elements, the
animals, the earth. Africa
is a meditation in itself.
But what if you want to
soak up the thrill of
a melting beach sunset or
see a lion cub asleep in
the cradle of its mothers
body, while also immersing
yourself in a turbo-charged
health blast? A small
clutch of African retreats
provides resolutions for
the chronically tired,
overweight and stressed.
They are the perfect add-ons
to a larger trip, while
also being stellar enough
to warrant the journey in
themselves. By Daisy Finer
Easily accessible as a beach nale
after a dusty safari, the Lion In The Sun
retreat in Kenya is a surprising detox
x from Henri Chenot, better known
for his Italian mountain outpost Palace
Merano. Located in Malindi, a hippy
coastal town, this, however, is a
signicantly less institutional set-up.
Instead of marble interiors, chandeliers
and diamonds at dinner, theres a
gloriously boho vibe. My bedroom, one
of 16, provided simple comfort with a
huge four-poster and a bathroom bigger
than most London ats. Theres a lovely
swimming pool and a small gym, and
the bio-light diet, known as the cure,
is far less strict than its European
counterpart. Despite the rules no
wheat, no sugar, no coffee, no alcohol,
no butter the food is exquisite.
Its fruit for breakfast to kickstart
your digestion, but lunch and supper are
both three-course meals, starting with
136 Cond Nast Traveller July 2014

Clockwise from left:


a room at Wildtness;
giraffe at Karkloof;
a Karkloof sunrise; dining
at Lion In The Sun; the
beach at Wildtness

mini melon balls and mint, or pears in


cinnamon sauce. The theory is that
fruit should be eaten at the beginning
of a meal rather than at the end,
otherwise it ferments on top of the
previous course. Next, good carbs
pumpkin gnocchi, bulgar wheat with
vegetables, followed by inventive proteins:
crab salad, calamari on a bed of garden
peas. By the end of my weeks stay I was
so full that I was leaving food on my
plate, and yet I had also lost half a stone.
But the diet is just part of the appeal.
The spa is sparkling and must have been
a vast expense to the hotels owner, Flavio
Briatore. Naomi Campbell and Bono
have both stayed here, which gives you
some idea as to the standard.
After an initial consultation with
Spanish spa manager Marga, whose
hands-on healing transforms weepy,
headachy wrecks into slim, serene
optimists, you are likely to be prescribed
daily facials and massages. These are
performed using an ancient Chinese
cupping method that helps to draw out
toxins, as well as hydrotherapy, which
involves lying in a pummelling bath for
20 minutes before being slathered in
foul-smelling algae, wrapped in blankets
and then left to snooze in the dark.
I fell asleep every time, only to be
woken, stripped completely naked and
hosed down until I was baby-soft and

squeaky clean. Its denitely not for


the modest, but you are given the same
therapist throughout your stay, which
helps you feel more at ease.
Days drift by in a whirl of stints in the
gym, yoga and pool wallowings. Marga
took me on a boat trip blue light

This is one of my
favourite spas in the
world, yet few people
have heard of it
bouncing off a pancake-at sea and we
meditated in the ocean, an orange starsh
tickling my toes. I looked better, felt
calmer and light inside, with that delicious,
taut, gathering-inward sensation. One
night I slept for eleven hours, something
Id forgotten was even possible. It is
no exaggeration to say that the whole
experience left me feeling about 10
years younger. Lion In The Sun is one
of my favourite spas in the world, and
yet few people have heard of it.

prepackaged food back


in the zoo of city life
as pretty despicable and
will be completing tasks
a ve-kilometre swim
across a creek, for instance
that you previously
thought impossible.

Further down the coast at Watamu,


Wildtness is one of the toughest, most
intense and inspirational tness holidays
out there. You dont come here for a
break. The heat alone is an ordeal; youll
want to drink your own body weight in
water, and with no air-conditioning its
easy to worry on arrival how you will
cope. Especially when told whats in store:
leaping across obstacle courses at dawn,
going for jungle runs, swimming for miles,
boxing to the brink. This is exercise at
its most elemental, beneath a scorching sun:
sprinting barefoot on the beach, ghting,
lifting, climbing, hanging, crawling. Its
heart-burning and sweat-drenching. The
godsend is that every kick-ass activity
is followed by long periods of downtime
with views of the Indian Ocean. And
the results are astounding. You leave
fully, resolutely charged. The point is an
unfettered philosophy that is refreshingly
simple and staggeringly effective: move
your body hard, fast and for short periods
of time. And eat the diet of the ancients.
By the end of the week you will view

Beyond kenya, other


treats await, particularly
in South Africa. When it
opened in 2009, Karkloof
an hour from Durban
was the countrys rst
proper destination spa,
with calorie-counted food,
handpicked Thai therapists
and everything from reexology and
Kneipp pools to tai chi. There are detox
and weight-loss programmes, and the
price of the stay includes up to 11 spa
treatments a day. What really makes this
place special, though, is its mesmerising
setting in the KwaZulu-Natal Midlands.
The countryside is stunning, with craggy
cliffs in the distance, the glittering waters
of the Albert Falls Dam and the 105metre-high Karkloof Falls.
Its the most soothing and soulful
landscape for a spa, which seamlessly
combines holistic therapies with all the
fun of game viewing. Everybody has their
own ranger and Jeep, and there are no
strict schedules, so this truly is bespoke
safari. There are hundreds of species of
birds and plants and you might spot white
rhino, kudu, giraffe, zebra, hippos,
warthogs and buffalo. Go for daily nature
walks, take a mountain bike, trek, sh,
swim, then op out in the spa with its
otation and mineral baths, Moroccan
rhassoul chamber and 17 huge treatment
rooms. The food is organic, nothing is

imported or unseasonal, and the rawfood menu is one of the best Ive come
across: beautiful salads, soups, lasagnes
and sorbets, even banana pancakes at
breakfast. Karkloof set the standard for
the spa-fari world, and no other spot

Karkloof seamlessly
combines holistic
therapies with the fun
of game viewing
has matched it. Another crucial point:
when you pass through Johannesburg, as
you almost inevitably will, do make a
detour to the astonishing Saxon Hotel.
The spa here is truly forward-thinking,
with treatments well worth the stopover.
A trip to Africa is always a tonic for the
spirit. But when it comes to spas, it can also
be a life enhancer. And its deeply reassuring
to know that you dont have to drag
yourself off to a cold, clinical boot camp to
achieve transformation. You can instead
hotfoot it to the cradle of mankind which
makes so much more sense.
The Explorations Company (+44 1367
850 566; www.explorationscompany.com)
offers seven nights at Lion In The
Sun from 3,090, half board, including
ights and transfers. Healing Holidays
(+44 20 7843 3597; www.healingholidays.
co.uk) offers a nine-day Kickstart
programme at Wildtness from 3,350, full
board, including ights, transfers, training
sessions and activities. Africa Travel
(+44 20 7843 3500; www.africatravel.com)
offers four nights at Karkloof from 2,995,
full board, including ights, transfers,
activities and unlimited spa treatments.
Saxon Hotel, Villas and Spa (+27 11
292 6000; www.saxon.co.za)

THE EXPERTS... ADVICE


ice-cream starter and comes decorated with owers
and herbs from the pretty gardens. Before heading back
to the ferry, make a pit stop at Island Gelato Companys
pop-up ice-cream stall (www.islandgelato.co.nz), housed
in a funkily converted shipping container. There are some
superb avours on offer, all homemade using local
ingredients my top tip is the liquorice.

Q
A

My husband and I are starting our New Zealand adventure


in Auckland and would like to kick things off somewhere
thats nearby but feels miles from a city. Any suggestions?
You should denitely head to Waiheke Island in the Hauraki
Gulf. The ferry takes about 40 minutes from downtown
Auckland, just enough time to blow away the last traces of
jet lag. Waiheke has glorious scenery, stunning vineyards
and a reputation as a bit of an arty hangout. Stay at the
Oyster Inn (www.theoysterinn.co.nz) in Oneroa (pictured
above); its small there are only three rooms but

and cured-meat platter with a glass of 2012


ros. Dinner in one of the islands vineyards
is a must, too; my favourite is Mudbrick (www.
mudbrick.co.nz) with its brilliant views of the Auckland
skyline across the water. Equally good is the smaller, more
relaxed bistro at the opposite end of the lavender-lined
terrace. The food is terric especially the goats cheese

Paula Ellis
Deputy Art Director

138 Cond Nast Traveller July 2014

Q
A

Id like to go on a tness holiday, but Im not really into


gyms and I nd boot camps terrifying. Id also like some
pampering spa treatments. Do you have any ideas?
Try Flipper Camp, a ve-day package launched last year
at Cypruss grande dame Anassa hotel (www.anassa.com.
cy) its much more fun than a punishing gym regime.
There are four days of water-based activities, with a day
of treatments in the Thalassa Spa.
You start each morning with
an invigorating hydro workout in
the spas pool the water creates
natural resistance, making your
muscles work at a higher intensity
then choose from all manner of
watersports on the crystal blue
sea. Theres wakeboarding and
wakeskating (for the latter, youre not
attached to the board), windsurng,
paddleboarding, canoeing and
Caroline Phillips
snorkelling. Each day ends with hydro Contributor
yoga, a great low-impact workout thats
good for all levels of tness. Your spa day take
it whenever you want it is also dedicated to all
things watery, with jet showers for tackling cellulite,
thalassotherapy (seawater) baths for deep detoxing,
salt scrubs and algae body wraps. Be sure to sign up for
a sublime massage with Michaela, using seaweed oil.
Were staying near Faro this summer but want to
venture off the beaten track when we go for supper.
How can we avoid the tourist traps?
Eating out in the Algarve can be a standard affair at best,
but if youre willing to avoid the obvious choices I can
recommend two really great
restaurants. The rst is Jorge
do Peixe in Quarteira (www.
restaurantejorgedopeixe.com),
which specialises in delicious local
sh, most of it fresh off the boat
that morning. The decor might
not be up to much, but the food is
sensational order the cataplana,
a local stew packed with squid,
prawns and mussels and
Matthew Buck
youll probably be the only
Photographic production
non-Portuguese here.
Booking is essential. My second choice, Retiro do Campons
in Vale Judea (www.retirodocampones.pai.pt), is a little
harder to nd, so youll need a car. This homely village
restaurant serves generous portions of unpretentious food
to a clientele almost exclusively made up of local families.
We ate in the garden several times, tucking into black pork
and clams, chicken piri piri and slow-roasted lamb. Prices
are fantastically reasonable and theres a great selection of
Portuguese wines, so, in fact, a taxi might be a better idea.

PHOTOGRAPHS: CHRISTIAN HOGUE;


KIERAN SCOTT

Q
A

Q
A

Im visiting Dubai on business later this year and want to do


something fun on my day off. What would you recommend?
Dubai has many astonishing sights, but nothing takes your breath
away quite so literally as free-falling over the Palm Jumeirah at
120mph. Leaping out of a plane with Sky Dive Dubai (www.
skydivedubai.ae) has to be one of the best ways to see the city
and its skyline. Im no Felix Baumgartner, nor intrepid daredevil
Hamdan bin Mohammed al Maktoum
the crown prince of Dubai, who
regularly jumps solo here so I went
tandem and was given clear and
precise instruction by an ex-British
Army officer: Arms like this, legs like
that, free fall for 50 seconds, canopy
for one minute. There was minimal
fuss and drama, until the point where
you launch yourself out into the
wild blue yonder at 13,000ft. I took
control of the parachute and wove
Caroline Metcalfe
left and right, my eyes moving from
Director of Photography
the Hajar mountains shimmering in
the distance to the Burj Khalifa downtown, with a birds-eye view
of the islands below. I felt like the photographer Yann ArthusBertrand viewing the world from a unique perspective available
only to the brave, the foolish or the adrenaline junkie. Many of
the 700 intrepid souls who jump here each year come specically
for the incredible combination of spectacular scenery natural
and man-made and the companys world-class safety record.

Q
A

I like the idea of shopping at a designer outlet village, but


the crowds put me off. When is the best time to go?
Youll want to avoid school holidays and weekends, obviously.
At Bicester Village (www.bicestervillage.com), Tuesdays are
considered golden for new stock and fewer shoppers. Bicester
has not only a juicy line-up of fashion names including Cline,
Chlo, Stella McCartney and Jimmy Choo, but also great
kids clothes, as well as homeware and accessories. Prada has
added another oor to its boutique, reducing the permanent
queue outside. And this summer sees Peter Pilotto and Mary
Katrantzou in the Village Pop-Up. Less well-known but well
worth a visit is Kildare Outlet Village
(www.kildarevillage.com). Take
an inexpensive ight to Dublin,
then 40 minutes by car, for big
discounts on Anya Hindmarch
and Mulberry. The Village will
double in size from next year,
so visit sooner rather than later.
Seek out German cookware
brand Zwilling at half price,
Fiona Lintott
coveted pots from Le Creuset,
Fashion and
Jamie Olivers range, Nespresso
Beauty Editor
machines and Tefal juicers. If thats not
enough to convince you, the Art & Food Exhibition (on until
the end of August) will showcase many of Irelands most
talented chefs and sculptors. Make a weekend of it and
stay at the nearby K Club (www.kclub.ie).

PANORAMA, GOZO

VILLA GAIA, CYPRUS

BLUE, CORFU

T RAVELLER PROM OT ION

villa

variety

Discover the best of both worlds with James Villas Holiday Resorts,
and see why there is nothing more relaxing and indulging than a
private villa coupled with the highest quality facilities
Clockwise from top left:
Exterior of Villa Rei 38
in the Algarve; Living
area at El Rincon
Margerita on the Costa
del Sol; Exterior of El
Rincon Margerita;
Exterior of Villa
Ouranos in Cyprus;
Bedroom in Villa Rei 38

villa specialist in the UK, offers


properties in over 50 holiday
resorts, from the Portuguese
Algarve to the lush hills and
dramatic beaches of Cyprus.
Each resort brings together
restaurants and bars, sports
and spa facilities and villas
of the highest quality, all in
atmospheric, village-style
settings. Ideal for a family week
or a get-together with a group of friends, booking with
James Villas ensures top-class accommodation in
fabulous coastal or rural locations.

ts the rst day of your holiday in your luxurious


villa, and there are decisions to be made. Should
the morning be spent on the golf course or the tennis
court? The afternoon indulging in a spa treatment
or two while the children enjoy the kids club. Or
maybe the answer is a lazy day by your own private
pool, with an early evening stroll to a nearby
restaurant for supper.

These kind of choices are the joy of booking a villa


in a holiday resort, which combines the privacy and
freedom of a villa, with a huge range of facilities just
outside your door. James Villa Holidays, the leading

Golf-lovers, and those in search of reliable, warm sun,


should head to the Monte Rei Golf & Country Club,
in Portugals beautiful Algarve region. Villa Rei 38 is
a coolly elegant villa, with the accent on understated
style; polished wood oors, coffee-and-cream dcor
and a state-of-the-art kitchen. Outside, the private
pool is perfect for lazy afternoons with a book, while
tennis, golf and an indulgent spa are all just a brief
stroll away.
Some holiday resorts create a vibrant, traditional
atmosphere, and Aphrodite Hills with its pretty
Cypriot village locale, 13 restaurants and bars, kids
club, luxurious spa and private beach is one of the
best. Villa Ouranos is one of the most luxurious villas

in the resort with spectacular views from its hilltop


location and a gorgeous innity pool and huge outside
terrace. Sleeping 10 in ve bedrooms, its ideal for a
large family or group get-together.
On the Costa del Sol, the exclusive Sotogrande makes
a wonderfully tranquil escape. Set at the base of the
Almenara Mountains, the beautiful countryside runs
down to long, sandy beaches with its own yachting
marina, its an ideal choice for families of all ages.
El Rincon Margerita sleeps up to 12 in six bedrooms,
with its own sauna, jacuzzi and gym, lush gardens and
a sizeable innity pool, making it the perfect choice for
a birthday or anniversary celebration. The villa offers
access to the resorts wide range of sporting facilities,
so your holiday can combine indulgence and activity
in one incredible escape.

Discover our exquisite


collection of luxury
handpicked villas at
jamesvillas.co.uk/luxury
Speak to a friendly and
knowledgeable James
Villas Travel Adviser
on 0800 074 03 11

COMPETITION

WHERE ARE YOU?


Round and round you spin, until
you feel quite dizzy, on a huge Ferris
wheel. Next to it is a nail-biting ride
called, aptly enough for this magazine,
Around the World, whose seats whirl
about the tower to the very top. If you
can stomach the view from here, you
can look out over sparkling waterways
and tile-topped buildings, neoclassical
and Gothic. This city square has seen
many sights over the years, including
the visiting carnival that rides into town
twice a year. In the 1960s, it was the
scene of a sprawling love-in, when
young people from across the world
came to take advantage of the countrys
liberal laws, and chose to sleep on the

142 Cond Nast Traveller July 2014

cobbles outside, rather than in the


free hotel beds that the government
offered. In 1969 they were joined,
in spirit, by two recently married
celebrities who held a week-long bedin for peace, albeit in the presidential
suite of a ve-star hotel. These days,
though, you will nd more pigeons than
hippies in the square. Sit down here
long enough, with bird feed in your
hands, and you will soon be covered in
feathers. Where are you? STORM SIMPSON
To enter, identify the square referred to above.
Correct answers will be placed in a random
prize-draw. For competition rules and prize
details, please turn the page

PHOTOGRAPH: ALEXANDROS ANAGNOSTIDIS

COMPETITION PRIZE

WIN

A HOLIDAY WORTH 4,000


for a sun, sea and sand break, Dubai has
become the reliable option for many travellers.
Set on its own beach at Palm Jumeirah, the
palatial Jumeirah Zabeel Saray contains all
the requirements for a spectacular, stress-free
holiday. Its restaurants stir up a world of
avours, from Lebanese to North Indian,
Anatolian to Vietnamese; its nightlife includes
the space-age Supperclub Dubai and the
Beiruti-style MusicHall. Theres tennis, a huge
pool, a ptanque court and even a boutique
shopping avenue. Its centrepiece, though, is
the Talise Ottoman spa, left, inspired by the
classic Turkish hammam and clad in marble
and mosaics, with steam rooms, otation baths
and thalassotherapy. For more aquatic fun,
the Wild Wadi Waterpark is nearby. Enter this
months Where Are You? competition and
you could win a ve-night break for two here,
staying in a Deluxe King Sea View Room,
including breakfast, ights with Virgin Atlantic
from Heathrow, transfers, and a massage for
both guests. The holiday must be taken by 30
September 2014, and is subject to availability.
For more details, call the hotel on +971 4 453
0000 or visit www.jumeirahzabeelsaray.com.
For ight details, visit www.virginatlantic.com

Identify the location,


left, and send in your
entry to arrive by
31 July. All correct
entries will also be
included in the Grand
Prize draw at the
end of the current
competition period
(1 October 2013
30 September 2014).

COMPETITION RULES
1. Entries for the Where Are You?
competition can be sent on a postcard,
by email or online (stating your full
name, address and telephone number),
and must correctly identify the place
described according to the instructions
given. 2. Entries must arrive no later
than the last day of the month on this
issues cover. 3. The Where Are You?
competition is open to readers of Cond
Nast Traveller who are 18 or older on the
date of entry, except for employees of

144 Cond Nast Traveller July 2014

Cond Nast Publications, participating


promotional agencies, contributors to
Cond Nast Traveller, and the families
of any of the above. Entries by post
should be sent to: Where Are You?
competition, Cond Nast Traveller,
Vogue House, 1 Hanover Square,
London W1S 1JU. Email entries
should be sent to: compcntraveller@
condenast.co.uk. To enter online
and for full terms & conditions, visit
www.cntraveller.com/competitions

APRILS WINNER
The winner of Aprils competition is Hazel Bell of
Effingham, Surrey, who correctly identied the location
below as Bagan, in Burma. She wins a ve-night holiday
for two at the Marina Mandarin Singapore

PHOTOGRAPHS: ALEX ANAGNOSTIDIS; ANDY W LANGTON

HOW TO ENTER

READER OFFER

A SUMMER BREAK IN

FRANCE

Save 15 per cent on a luxurious Alpine chalet


holiday with family or friends in Chamonix

magine waking up and seeing the snowy anks of Mont


Blanc from your bedroom window. Stay at one of Collineiges
beautiful chalets in Chamonix this summer and you will enjoy
some of the best views around, as well as a stylishly relaxing
base from which to explore the area: highlights include the Mer
de Glace glacier and the incredible Pas Dans La Vide glass
viewpoint. Cond Nast Traveller readers have the exclusive
opportunity to save 15 per cent on a week-long stay at either
Les Tissourds, a four-bedroomed chalet built in 1924 with a hot
tub and ower-lled garden, or the contemporary Valhalla, which
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living room. Both are on a self-catering basis and cost from
1,390 for Tissourds, and from 2,231 for Valhalla. This includes
a welcome hamper, containing tasty local provisions and a bottle
of wine, and a half-day walking excursion. Flights not included.
The offer is valid until 31 October 2014, subject to availability.

FOR MORE DETAILS OR TO BOOK


Visit www.collineige.com or call +44 1483 579242

BODY BEAUTIFUL
Hoorah for poolside glamour! Rigby & Peller has
chosen Florence Brundell-Bruce to be the face of its
SS14 swimwear capsule collection. After 75 years
of lingerie expertise, it certainly knows how to
make the most of a girl's gure.
Rigbyandpeler.co.uk

THEA DARRICOTTE uncovers your world

ARKE
LEY CL
T
S
A
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TION,
THANK
OLLEC
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T
S
E
LAT
HALO!
MUSES
AVE A
H
N
A
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ECKLA
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GH Mumms Cordon Rouge


has been an ofcial sponsor of
Formula 1 since 2000: to mark
the occasion it has released the
Limited Edition Cordon Rouge,
so you can enjoy your own
podium moment however
racy your lifestyle.
RRP 32.09
LUXURY
HEALTH & BEAUTY

Buy two LANCME products


from selected Lancme Beauty
counters and youll be given
this gorgeous Jenny Packham
for Lancme cosmetics bag,
containing a selection of travelsized products inspired by her
Spring/Summer 2014 collection.

MAPPIN & WEBB IS HAVING A


MOMENT RIGHT NOW AND I CANT
HELP BUT LUST AFTER THIS DIAMOND
AND SAPPHIRE FLORESCO CUFF
INSPIRED BY AN ORIGINAL MOTIF
FROM ITS ARCHIVES. IT CAN BE WORN
EVERYWHERE FROM POOLSIDE TO
SOPHISTICATED SOIREES.
39,950, MAPPINANDWEBB.COM

The Investec Derby Festival has announced British supermodel Jodie Kidd will be the Ofcial Face of
the event and Philip Treacy will continue his role of Ofcial Hat Designer. The festival takes place at Epsom
Downs racecourse on Friday 6 and 7 June. Tickets from 45, epsomdowns.co.uk

W
W
EXPERIENCE

No one conjures ladylike elegance like American


designer Dennis Basso this tangerine alligator
jacket and tote with abstract-print dress sums up all
that is wonderful and bright about summer!

SET AND MATCH


The Wimbledon Soft Ricky Bag from
Ralph Lauren is available exclusively at its
London stores and is set to be the bag
of the season. Start queuing, ladies
2,050, 020 7535 4600

W Dohas ultimate
detoxifying package includes
two nights in a Marvellous
Room, a 30-minute training
session for two, the Rapid
Rub Massage for two, a
choice of healthy breakfasts
and access to the FIT Center
to ensure you are toned,
refreshed and ready to go
wherever your next adventure
takes you. About 180
per person per night,
whotels.com

European exclusive to Harrods,

HEALTH & BEAUTY

Acqua di Parma's new Ginepro di Sardegna


fragrance encapsulates the essence of Sardinia with
notes of juniper, sage and cypress. Also available in
an Energizing Shower Gel, Energizing Body Milk
and a deodorant. acquadiparma.com

020 7730 1234 ext: 3882

FLYING TO ISTANBUL THIS SUMMER? TURKISH AIRLINES HAS REFURBISHED ITS


LOUNGE AT ATATURK AIRPORT AND EXPANDED IT BY 40 PER CENT. IT NOW
CATERS TO EVERY PASSENGER'S REQUIREMENTS WHETHER YOU WISH TO
SIT QUIETLY AND WORK, INDULGE IN A MASSAGE OR TAKE A SHOWER, DROP
YOUR CHILDREN OFF AT THE PLAYROOM OR SAMPLE SOME OF THE DELICIOUS
PRE-FLIGHT MEALS AND SNACKS. TURKISHAIRLINES.COM

LUXURY

ALAIN DUCASSE IS OPENING


RIVEA LONDON AT BULGARI
HOTEL & RESIDENCES
WITH HIS PROTEGE DAMIEN
LEROUX AT THE HELM.
TO MATCH THE HEAVENLY
Can you believe its the 30th
anniversary of the BREITLING
Chronomat? To celebrate, Breitling
has launched a special series with a
resolutely technical and professional
appearance. With its black dial, it also
happens to be rather edgy looking.
Chronomat Airborne 44mm steel case
on military strap,
6,600, breitling.com

FRENCH AND ITALIAN


CUISINE, THE FANTASTIC
WINE LIST SHOWCASES THE
VERY BEST OF THE FRENCH
TERROIR AND CLASSIC
ITALIAN WINES.
RIVEALONDON.COM

Dream Destinations

Dream Destinations

EUROPE-UK
LA SABLONNERIE HOTEL. A convivial
corner of a beautiful island. Gorgeous
gardens, peace and tranquillity, birds,
butteries, owers, horses and carriages
no cars how could one not enjoy this
amazing paradise? You will nd this hotel
to have a great joie de vivre as well as
terric food. La Sablonnerie has recently
received the highly coveted award from
Cond Nast Johansen - Small Hotel of
the Year. Visit www.sablonneriesark.com
or call 01481 832 061.

Deelin Mor Lodge is a secluded retreat in


the midst of the Burren, one of Irelands
most unique areas of outstanding natural
beauty. This design led family home, built in
the style of an Irish Georgian hunting lodge,
accommodates up to 10 people and is
perfect for holidays, special occasions or a
weekend break. www.deelinmor.com
Tel: +353 65 708 9009.

Whitrigg House is a beautiful late 18th


century grade II listed property located in
the historic village of Clifton, in Cumbrias
Eden Valley. On the north side of the Lake
District National Park, this idyllic and friendly
home-from-home provides both comfort and
luxury, with the most charming personal
touches. Perfect for retreats or weekend
breaks. W: www.whitrigghouse.co.uk
T: 01768 895 077.

THE BULL HOTEL. Easy-going and


bursting with life this 16th century
coaching inn oozes eclectic style and
contemporary rustic charm with two
award-winning restaurants, cider house
and cocktail bar in the heart of Bridport
near the Jurassic Coast in West Dorset.
Call 01308 422878 or visit
thebullhotel.co.uk

MELDRUM HOUSE. Set amidst beautiful


countryside, The 4 Gold Star Meldrum
House Country Hotel & Golf Course offers
unrivalled quality. For a weekend break,
Scottish wedding reception, conference or
luxury golf vacation, you can enjoy great
hospitality, ne dining and the tranquillity of
the magnicent Meldrum Estate. T: 01651
872294. Web: www.meldrumhouse.com

NORTH AMERICA
ZURICH
HOTEL RESTAURANT HELVETIA
The boutique hotel Helvetia with its 16
individually furnished rooms is a real jewel
among the citys hotels. The family-run
and individual hotel and restaurant offer a
home from home to business travellers,
city explorers and Zurich lovers alike.
Phone: 0041 (0)44 297 99 98
Web: www.hotel-helvetia.ch

Valencia Mindfulness Retreat, a beautiful


bed and breakfast situated in the centre
of Historic Valencia voted one of
TripAdvisors top 8 places to stay in
Spain. Indulge yourself with a visit to the
in the in-house massage room for the
ultimate pampering experience, or a quiet
moment in the early bird meditation room.
W: www.valenciamindfulnessreatreat.org
E: info@valenciamindfulnessreatreat.org

Welcome to Galini Hotel and Villas, your


home away from home. Perched on the
imposing volcanic cliffs of Santorini, in one
of the most beautiful spots on the island,
Galini overlooks a cerulean blue immensity
with sweeping views of the volcano, the
caldera and the Aegean sea. We invite you,
our most welcomed guests, to discover our
little paradise. Visit: www.hotelgalini.gr or
Call: +30 22860 22095

QUALITY VILLAS in France, Italy and


Morocco.
Luxury holiday villas with pools on the
Cote dAzur, St Tropez, Provence, Biarritz,
Tuscany, Umbria, Marrakech, Agadir and
more. Our portfolio of villas are visited
personally by us, meaning we can offer
specialist advice down to the smallest
detail. Services including chef, transfers
and maid service are easily arranged.
Tel 01442 870055 or visit
www.qualityvillas.com ABTA & Fully
Bonded.

HOTEL CLAUDE MARBELLA is a


luxurious boutique hotel, set inside a
meticulously restored 17th-century
townhouse. Perfectly placed in the heart of
Marbellas Old Town. Experience this
former artists club with its 7 uniquely
styled rooms, restaurant, patios and roof
terraces. www.hotelclaudemarbella.com
Email: info@hotelclaudemarbella.com
Tel.: +34 952 900 840.

Evas Escape at the Gardenia Inn, San


Antonio, Texas, is located in the famous King
William Historic District, the house was built
circa 1905 and is tastefully furnished with
antiques and family treasures. Whether
enjoying a stroll along the Riverwalk or
soaking in one of the antique claw foot tubs,
a stay at Evas Escape will rejuvenate your
body and spirit. W: www.evasescape.com
T: +001 210 223 5875

The Baker House 1650s luxurious and


relaxing environment makes it the ideal
home away from home in East Hampton,
New York. On offer is a range of amenities
including breakfast daily, local beach
access, spa treatments, and concierge
services to cater to every guests needs.
T: 631.324.4081 or email
info@bakerhouse1650.com.

Dream Destinations

AFRICA & INDIAN OCEAN


HOT
LIST

THE 60 BEST

NEW HOTELS
IN THE WORLD

THE ZANZIBAR COLLECTION


Exotic, Luxurious, Zanzibar!
The Zanzibar Collection is a privately
owned collection of beautiful boutique
hotels inspired by the magic of Zanzibar,
lying on one of the Top 30 Island beaches
in the world. Offering a range of water
sports, stunning spas and East Africas
only National Geographic afliated PADI 5
star Dive Centre. Baraza Resort and Spa
was chosen as one of the Worlds 60
Best New Hotels on the Conde Nast
Hotlist. www.thezanzibarcollection.com

WINCHESTER MANSIONS is an iconic


building on the seafront in Cape Town
within close proximity to the V&A
Waterfront and Cape Town International
Airport. This landmark hotel offers
classically elegant rooms boasting sea or
mountain views. Facilities include a pool,
Ginkgo Spa, signature dishes from
Harveys restaurant and full service
conferencing.
Tel: +27 (0)21 434 2351
Fax: +27 (0)21 434 0215
Email: traveller@winchester.co.za
Web: www.winchester.co.za
Now from only 99 per room B&B

Dream Destinations

EUROPE
BOUTIQUE BEYEVI HOTEL in ALACATI,
TURKEY. Nestled in the Aegeans stylish
Alacati town, the Beyevi is an oasis of a
boutique hotel lovingly restored from old
village houses. Matching the towns allure of
vintage and contemporary style, it is the
ideal hideaway for relaxation with a beautiful
pool, gourmet cuisine and 15 stunning
rooms. E: info@beyevi.com.tr T: +90 533
602 1600, www.beyevi.com.tr
CASA MONTANI is a luxury guesthouse in
the heart of Rome, overlooking the
prestigious Porta del Popolo. Its ve rooms
and exclusive new apartment are beautifully
furnished with the best Italian and French
brands. The atmosphere is very personal
with breakfast served in your room the
perfect haven to stay in while you explore
the city. www.casamontani.com Tel: +39
063 260 0421.

LISBON MILD CLIMATE ALL YEAR


ROUND
HERITAGE LISBON HOTELS
Live the Portuguese Charm and Tradition
in the Historic centre of Lisbon. Stay in
one of the 5 Heritage Lisbon Hotels
Collection As Janelas Verdes, Heritage
Avenida Liberdade Hotel, Hotel Britania,
Hotel Lisboa Plaza and Solar Do Castelo.
Tel: +351 213 218 200
heritage.hotels@heritage.pt
www.heritage.pt
La Baronnie Hotel & Spa*** proposes
some exceptional packages to give you
the opportunity to discover the charming
Ile de R. In October: for 3 nights stay, 1
night is offered and we offer
complimentary breakfast during
weekdays Private parking / No smoking.
Tel:+33 546 092 129;
www.hotel-labaronnie.com

CASA LA CONCHA, a beautiful finca


situated in the stunning Marbella
countryside just minutes from Puerto
Banus. An Old Andalusian residence, it
has been exquisitely renovated into a large
main house and 5 luxury cottages. Relax
in the living room with a drink, enjoy a
good book from their library or go explore
the hidden treasures of Marbella. Visit
www.casalaconcha.com or call +34 646
520 883.

RIAD KHEIRREDINE. Charming riad in


the heart of the Medina of Marrakech.
Italian management, attention to detail,
all that a traveller can wish in terms of
comfort, style and hospitality with
attention to each guest.
www.riadkheirredine.com, 00212 524
386 364, infos@riadkheirredine.com

Dream Destinations

AUSTRALASIA & OCEANIA


istanbul!place apartments Best City
Apartment winners at i-escape. Stylish,
characterful, self-catering period
properties in Galata, the heart of Istanbul.
Stay close to the ancient sights yet be
part of the contemporary, authentic local
community: live like a local. Perfect for
gatherings of families and friends.
www.istanbulplace.com or 07729 251676.

TOMTOM SUITES. A lovingly restored


former convent, Tomtom Suites The Old
Franciscan House is a small luxury hotel
with 20 suites hidden in the central district
of Istanbul. The contemporary interiors
include original artwork and a rooftop
restaurant with views of the Bosphorus
within easy access of the Blue Mosque and
Taksim Square. www.tomtomsuites.com
+90 212 292 49 49

THE HUKA RETREATS


www.hukaretreats.com
Three sister properties in South Africa, Fiji
and New Zealand chic and understated
statements of exclusivity and seclusion, all
offering an exceptional hospitality experience
to the worlds most discerning travellers.
GRANDE PROVENCE ESTATE, South
Africa, is located within a one-hour drive
from Cape Town. This 300-year old heritage
estate offers award-winning wines, cuisine
and art gallery with superb accommodation
at The Owners Cottage and La Provenale.
T +27 (0)21 876 8600
E reservations@grandeprovence.co.za
DOLPHIN ISLAND, Fiji offers 14-acres of
Pacific private island beauty, romance and
luxury castaway time for a max. of 8
guests, on an exclusive-use basis.
HUKA LODGE, New Zealand, is famed for
its natural beauty, legendary hospitality and
absolute style since the 1920s. With just
25 rooms within 17-acres of manicured
grounds.
Contact: T +64 7 378 5791
E reservations@hukalodge.co.nz
for both Huka Lodge & Dolphin Island
reservations.


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CLASSIFIED ADVERTISING FEATURE

On The Move...
To a Villa Retreat

TUSCANY
MONTE ARGENTARIO
Luxury Villa Rentals
25 years of experience renting hand-picked villas in Tuscany

+44 207 684 8884

tuscanynow.com

Property Sales

For further information, please call 020 8246 6123


www.isolarossa.co.uk

CLASSIFIED ADVERTISING FEATURE

On The Move...
To Greece
hotel

konaki
To advertise within On The Move... please call 020 7499 9080 ext 3705

Lefkada - Greece

A perfect escape of 7 luxurious


villas situated on the top of the
caldera with panoramic views
of the Aegean Sea and the
unique sunset.
Aenaon Villas, Santorini, Greece
info@aenaonvillas.gr
+30 6944353400
www.aenaonvillas.com

Historic charming
& stylish
On the island of poets and intellectuals, the only island in
Greece known as the mainland island, that is no other than
Lefkada; a Greek-American family returned a couple of
decades ago and put all their love and affection for their
homeland into a very special, small and traditional hotel.
Hotel Konaki is clearly a labour of love where the spirit of
Greek Philoxenia is found in abundance; spread throughout
the property and its people.
www.hotelkonaki.com | welcome@hotelkonaki.com

www.ekies.gr

your
mediterranean
hideaway
Halkidiki-Greece

The Merchants House


Boutique B&B
Old Perithia
Corfus Oldest Village
t. +44 (0)203 490 9928
www.merchantshousecorfu.com

Thera

Where Earth, Water, Air and Fire


come together and give life to an
enchanting harmony.
Visit our website
www.stefanisuites.com

ITHACA GREECE
www.hotel-familia.com

CLASSIFIED ADVERTISING FEATURE

On The Move...
To Greece
BRATSERA HOTEL
Hydra

www.bratserahotel.com
info@bratserahotel.com
+30-22980-53971

HISTORICAL BOUTIQUE HOTEL/ COTOMMATAE HYDRA 1810

Experience the glory of a Historic Mansion on the beautiful Island of Hydra


www.cotommatae.gr
info@cotommatae.gr
T: +30 22980 53873

MHTE 0262K050A0250301

Member of Historical Hotels of


Europe and Greek Historical Hotels

Kato Mili, 84600, Mykonos


Tel: 0030 22890 22230
E-mail: info@mykonostheoxenia.com

WWWMYKONOSTHEOXENIACOM

Discover your Crete at


Blue Palace Resort & Spa

Blue Palace

a Luxury Collection
Resort & Spa
Please contact
ww.bluepalace.gr
T +30 28410 65500

CLASSIFIED ADVERTISING FEATURE

On The Move...
To Greece

On The Move...

AMBASSADOR HOTEL

To advertise within On The Move... please call 020 7499 9080 ext 3705

Ambassador Hotel, an enclave of luxury and romance in Akrotiri, one of Santorini's least
exploited areas, is a cool haven of barefoot luxury and pleasure that consists of breathtaking
vistas, exciting architecture, sophisticated interiors and impeccable service.
Tel: +30.22860 85270-71
Fax: +30.22860 85272
e-mail: info@ambassadorhotelsantorini.com
www.ambassadorhotelsantorini.com

La Maison DAix 1785


La Maison DAix was once an elegant and private mansion belonging to priestess of
love and well known antiques dealer Henriette Reboul. After 3 years of complete
restoration and renovation, the architect Laura Juhen has turned the mansion into an
atmospheric and refined little boutique hotel in the heart of
Aix-en-Provence. Nothing at this chic retreat has been left to chance and the result is a
stunning masterpiece.
www.lamaisondaix.com
T: +33 4 42 53 78 95

ST NICOLAS BAY RESORT HOTEL AND VILLAS,


CRETE, GREECE.
This elegant resort provides a wealth of romantic settings
for wedding couples with many venues to choose for the
most important day of your life, whether you want a unique
wedding ceremony or an extra-special honeymoon.
For information, visit
www.stnicolasbay.gr call +30 28410 90200 or email
stnicolas@otenet.gr for enquiries.

In the Empord (Spain); hostalsarascassa.com

CLASSIFIED ADVERTISING FEATURE

On The Move...

El Secreto Resort
THE

MANSION
R E S O R T

H O T E L

&

S P A

El Secreto resort, located in Ambergris Caye, Belize offers an intimate, barefoot luxury experience surrounded
by the crystal blue waters of the caribbean and a lush tropical landscape, a true and authentic paradise...
El Secreto nestles 13 exclusive individual thatched roof villas with a smart combination of contemporary and
traditional elements. Fine Belizean tropical woods, marble finished bathrooms with a tandem bathtub,
outdoor private jacuzzi and shower patio. All the villas are equipped with a King size bed, a state of the art
led lighting system, air conditioning, ipod dock station, LCD TV, mini bar, safe, Melita coffee maker, 400
thread egyptian cotton Vivenda linens and Malin & Goetz amenities.
You can experience a variety of activities for couples to enjoy together-from private dinners and couples'
massages, complimentary watersports and bicycles to adventurous excursions - all designed to create
lasting memories for a lifetime.
Tel: +501 236 51 11

+501 670 51 11
Toll Free: 1 800 479 5037
info@elsecretobelize.com
11 miles North of San Pedro Town, Ambergris Caye, Belize.

Where Arts & Leisure meet

UBUD

BALI

info@themansionbali.com - www.themansionbali.com

Borgo San Felice

Chianti Classico, Siena, Tuscany

Hotel Duquesa De Cardona


Delightfully contemporary palace
hotel of the19th century, superbly
located in front of the port and just a
3 minute walk to Ramblas and the
historic centre.
Breath-taking views towards the
harbour from the cocktail-terrace
and roof top pool. A romantic
urban retreat.

An enchanting spot set amidst vineyards


and olive groves
www.borgosanfelice.it
info@borgosanfelice.it
Tel. +39.0577.3964

Handpicked Properties
with Private Pools
A selection of beautiful individual
villas & houses with pools in
tranquil settings & areas of
traditional local culture.
*5((&(63$,1
 /$1=$527(
%$/($5,&63
 2578*$/)5$1&(
,7$/<&52$7,$

Now in our 23rd year

Call for a brochure or to speak to one of our specialists


2787

01954 261431

or visit our website


www.vintagetravel.co.uk

V5643

For more information visit


www.hduquesadecardona.com
or call +34 932 689 090

CLASSIFIED ADVERTISING FEATURE

On The
Move...

NEW EDITIONS
VOGUE
ON DESIGNERS

Dominican Republic Luxury Hotel


Located on the exotic north coast of the Dominican Republic and directly on the
crystal water, Casa Colonial Beach & Spa is the ultimate, world-class resort.

www.casacolonialhotel.com
00 1 866 376 7831 / 00 1 809 320 3232

Affordable
luxury

Cond Nast Traveller reminds you to ensure that when


booking a package holiday to check that the travel
company has arranged a bond, in order to provide
nancial security through a trade association
(eg ABTA), insurance, or a trust account.

SOUTH AMERICA

Tailor-made holidays in Chile,


Argentina, Peru, Brazil and Bolivia

Germany

CHILE TOURS

Madeira France

Travel

Switzerland

Italy

Spain Mallorca Portugal

Tailor-made holidays to
a delectable collection
of hotels across nine
destinations by air, sea,
rail or accommodation only.
Visit our website for
fantastic special offers
and inspirational ideas

Capri

To advertise within On The Move... please call 020 7499 9080 ext 3705

AVAILABLE
NOW

Tel: 020 7730 5959


www.chiletours.org
Email: London.chiletours@btinternet.com

INDIA

Guaranteed Sighting
Romance with the Taj
Bespoke tours on India, Burma, Vietnam and China.
GOA/KERALA 14 nights from 897 inc ights.
Quote Cond Nast for further information!
To travel in style call 020 7258 7800 or visit www.goaway.co.uk

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VOGUE ON RALPH LAUREN by Kathleen Baird-Murray (ISBN 978 1 84949 312 3) VOGUE ON ALEXANDER McQUEEN
by Chloe Fox (ISBN 978 1 84949 113 6) VOGUE ON ELSA SCHIAPARELLI by Judith Watt (ISBN 978 1 84949 110 5)
VOGUE ON VIVIENNE WESTWOOD by Linda Watson (ISBN 978 1 84949 310 9)
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TOP HOTEL HIDEAWAYS


Insider Cornwall South Africas Elephant Coast
On your bike in Denmark Kick back on Menorca




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200 May 2014


 Koh Lanta  Santa Fe
Stockholm  San Francisco
 Italy  The Hot List 2014

201 June 2014


Sweden  Seaside hotels
Belize  Costa de la Luz
 Paris  European festivals


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ROOM WITH A VIEW

WHERE ARE WE? IBIZA


TAKEN FROM ROOM 103 AT CAS GASI
Cas Gasi is a quiet, no-fuss hilltop hideaway in Santa Gertrudis. Surrounded by pine trees and orange
groves, it ticks all the aesthetic boxes for an Ibizan country house: tumbling pink bougainvillaea,
whitewashed walls, terracotta tiles, cotton hammocks strung between palms. Here is a hotel that is savvy enough not to stand on
ceremony when what you want is a chilled-out vibe, thats smart enough to be full of the owners family heirlooms and glorious antiques,
and laid-back enough that you could order a round of tequilas at breakfast and no one would bat an eyelid. Slipping into a routine here is
easy. The pool is bigger and better than any youll nd at a private villa, the sitting rooms are full of photography books and fashion
magazines for lazy days out of the sun, and meals can be taken whenever you choose. The Mediterranean menu uses ingredients from
the organic garden; the crudit salad is a work of art and the gluten-free seeded bread is particularly delicious, especially when drizzled
with homemade cold-pressed olive oil. There is only one catch: Cas Gasi has just 12 rooms, so youll need to book now for next summer.
leave without snapping up a bottle of the islands signature scent, Hierbas de Ibiza. Its fresh hit
INSIDE TIP Dont
of lemon verbena, sage, jasmine and rosemary translates just as well back home. FIONA LINTOTT
Camino Viejo de San Mateu s/n, Santa Gertrudis, Ibiza (+34 971 197 700; www.casgasi.com). Doubles from about 240

WHY WE LOVE IT

160 Cond Nast Traveller July 2014

Epsom Downs Racecourse | 6-7 June 2014


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