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ITALIA!

ITALIA!
Issue 122 January 2015 4.40

NEW WEBSITE! www.italytravelandlife.com

Issue 122 January 2015

HOLIDAYS PROPERTY FOOD WINE CULTURE PEOPLE

48 HOURS IN PALERMO AND CAGLIARI BUYING A BARGAIN HOLIDAY HOME TUSCAN RED WINES AND BRAND NEW RECIPES

ISLAND ESCAPES
Treat yourself to some winter sun with well deserved
breaks in the capital cities of Sicily and Sardinia

www.italytravelandlife.com

WHY NOT LIVE THE DREAM?


Buying a bargain holiday home
VISITING MEDIEVAL LE MARCHE
Urbino, where history comes alive
COOKING & EATING THE NATURAL WAY
Recipes that are good for you and the environment

The elusive red wines of Tuscany

THE UKS AWARD-WINNING MAGAZINE ABOUT ITALY


IT122.Cover.sg3.indd 1

TAKING TO
THE SLOPES

Ten best ski resorts


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W E L C O M E T O I TA L I A !

Welcome!

We have plenty of everything in this


issue of Italia! If youre hankering
after some post-Christmas winter sun
then we present for the first time
in the magazines ten years two 48
Hours In... features. One takes us to
Cagliari, the capital city of the island
of Sardinia (on page 58, as featured
on the cover); the other explores what
Palermo in Sicily has to offer (turn to page 30). If youre
not fortunate enough to be able to visit both, then we
hope well help shape your decision as to which island
escape you fancy for the New Year.
But maybe its an invigorating activity holiday you
want to work off the excesses of the Festive Season? If so,
a skiing trip is a great option, and Italy is replete with
fantastic resorts just waiting to be worked. In this issue
we present you with our pick of them, selecting what we
believe are Ten of the Best (see page 39). Dont agree with
our shortlist? Then email us and let us know!
Elsewhere in this issue we take you on a cultural tour
of Urbino; we present you with property options on a
budget; we look at houses to buy in Le Marche; and, as
usual, we have a selection of Italian recipes to try in your
kitchen, plus theres the latest Italian news, events, wine
reviews, language aids and much more. Enjoy!

Paul Pettengale Editor

The Italian Tourist


Board voted Italia!
the Best Overall
Publication 2011

Ten Best Ski Resorts, page 39

orders only

AWARD WINNER!

SUBSCRIBE TO ITALIA!
Subscribe to Italia! and save money on the usual price* and
get the magazine delivered directly to your door every month!
Turn to page 36 for more information.

*UK

Cover image iStock


This image iStock

PS Italia!s brand new guide to City Breaks and Weekend Escapes


is on sale now (7.99). Visit www.italytravelandlife.com/
italiaguides for details.

THIS MONTHS CONTRIBUTORS


SEBASTIAN
CRESSWELL-TURNER
returns this issue
(following a summer
break to complete
a book) with his
Gazzetta column
(page 69), where
he presents an
opinion piece in both English and its Italian
translation. He explains why, despite its
economic woes, Italy is still the best place in
the world to hang your hat when you retire.

FLEUR KINSON takes


a fresh look at the
New Year the
perfect opportunity
to plan your Italian
property purchase.
Short of finances?
Dont worry you
can still achieve
the dream by reading her guide to buying
a house on a tight budget (see page 20).
Youll be amazed at what you can buy
without breaking the bank.

JOE GARTMAN is
passionate about
Italian art in all
its forms, whether
sculpture, painting or
architecture. In this
issue he presents his
regular Fast Culture
column (page 57),
and he also takes time out to visit Urbino
in Le Marche, where he discovers a town
steeped in artistic culture dating right back
to the Middle Ages (page 51).

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14

78 39

IN THISJanuary
ISSUE 2015
51

PROPERTY

CULTURE

20 HOMES ON A BUDGET
Want a home in Italy for less than 150,000?
It can be done. Fleur Kinson guides you
through the options.

51 CAMELOT IN LE MARCHE
The busy university town of Urbino is
sometimes called the perfect Renaissance
city. Joe Gartman returns to see if they have
got any of their paintings back yet.

64 PROPERTY FOCUS: LE MARCHE


Set in the perfect location between the
mountains and the sea, Le Marche is the new
Tuscany but without the high prices.

HOLIDAYS
30 48 HOURS IN PALERMO
No region is quite so different to the rest of
Italy as Sicily. James Miller finds he cant
keep away from its capital city.
39 TEN BEST SKI RESORTS
Giant ski areas, spectacular scenery and a
laid-back culture on the slopes Italy offers
some of Europes very best skiing. Plus, its
less expensive and less crowded than rival
Alpine nations. Fleur Kinson tries to choose
ten of the best resorts.

58

58 48 HOURS IN CAGLIARI
And suddenly there is Cagliari, wrote DH
Lawrence. A naked town rising steep, steep,
golden-looking, piled naked to the sky.
Adrian Mourby explores Sardinias capital.

57 FAST CULTURE
Joe Gartman finds something for everyone in
Romes seldom mentioned Quartiere Copped.
69 GAZZETTA ITALIA!
Sebastian Cresswell-Turner returns to
discuss the state of the Italian economy.
73 FAST ART
Freya Middleton examines Lorenzo Ghibertis
gold-plated doors on Florences Baptistery.

FOOD & DRINK


75 FOUR TAKES ON TENDERSTEM BROCCOLI
Recipes for this most Italian of vegetables.

30
84

78 THE NATURAL COOK


Simple, honest fare with Tom Hunt.
82 CHEFS NOTES
Sophie Dingle on making the perfect risotto.
89 DRINK ITALIA!
Paul Pettengale tastes some Tuscan reds.

4 ITALIA! January 2015

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IN THIS ISSUE

p42
p43

CERVINIA

p43

CORTINA DAMPEZZO

MADONNA DI CAMPIGLIO

URBINO

p51

p57

ROME

MATERA

p58

p16

CAGLIARI

PALERMO

p30

MORE ITALIA!

p58

p51

ITALIA!
Issue 122 January 2015 4.40

48 HOURS IN PALERMO AND CAGLIARI BUYING A BARGAIN HOLIDAY HOME TUSCAN RED WINES AND BRAND NEW RECIPES

www.italytravelandlife.com

98 MY ITALIA!
Executive chef Antonio Tonelli
tells about La Tagliata, the
exciting new Italian dining
concept in Spitalfields.

p30
Issue 122 January 2015

36 SUBSCRIBE TO ITALIA!
Never miss an issue of Italia! and get a
free book to enjoy.
48 PAST ITALIA!
Two hundred years ago this month the
world was in mourning for Lady
Emma Hamilton.
87 ASK THE EXPERTS
Insider knowledge on living,
working and travelling in Italy.
93 BOOK REVIEWS
Italy in literary form.
94 GETTING THERE
Plan your flight to Italy.

ITALIA!

6 READERS PHOTO COMPETITION


The best each month wins a bottle of
Nino Franco Prosecco and cooler!
8 ITALIAN NEWS
Your round-up of the biggest and
best stories from Italy this
month.
12 TOP PICKS
Our choice of the best new
Italian products.
14 EVENTS IN JANUARY
Dates for your diary in Italy
this New Year.
16 VIEWPOINT
The ancient cave dwellings
of Matera.
19 LETTERS
Readers share their stories and pictures
from their experiences in Italy. The best
wins a 25 delicibo voucher!

ON THE COVER

NEW WEBSITE! www.italytravelandlife.com

HOLIDAYS PROPERTY FOOD WINE CULTURE PEOPLE

ISLAND ESCAPES
Treat yourself to some winter sun with well deserved
breaks in the capital cities of Sicily and Sardinia

WHY NOT LIVE THE DREAM?


Buying a bargain holiday home
VISITING MEDIEVAL LE MARCHE
Urbino, where history comes alive
COOKING & EATING THE NATURAL WAY
Recipes that are good for you and the environment

The elusive red wines of Tuscany

THE UKS AWARD-WINNING MAGAZINE ABOUT ITALY


IT122.Cover.sg3.indd 1

TAKING TO
THE SLOPES

p39

Ten best ski resorts


01
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26/11/2014 14:26PM

p89

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Y O U R I TA L I A !

READERS PHOTO

COMPETITION!

Send us your favourite photos from your Italian travels, and each month the
best photo will win a bottle of Nino Franco Rustico Prosecco and cooler!*
THIS MONTHS WINNER
Brian Mordew, Wickersley
Please find the attached photographs that we took
during a recent holiday, showing Sorrento by day
and by night. The night image was taken across
Sorrento Bay.

Mike Ariganello,
Ontario, Canada
On a trip to Italy at the
end of February 2013
we drove right by this
Mimosa tree on the coast
road to Reggio Calabria,
on our way to see the
famous Riace Bronzes.
Merrill Levine,
Coral Springs, Florida
This view of Montalcino,
Tuscany, takes in the
landscape that stretches
away beyond the town.
6 ITALIA! January 2015

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W
IN
!

N
PR F
OS RA
ECC NC
O& OR
CH UST
ILL ICO
ER
*
INU R I T A L I A !
YO
O

Reginald S Murray, Dundee


On a recent visit to Lucca, which is the most charming
of Tuscan towns. In the Piazza del Mercato a shop had an
interesting advert.

Laurie Traficante, by email


This photo was taken while driving around the Chianti region, in the city of
Radda. I fell in love with the Vespa on this trip. I love all the colours! Whats more
Italian than a Vespa?

*Prosecco and cooler delivered to mainland UK addresses only

Jenny Coulson, Salisbury


I would like to submit these three
pictures from my visit to Rome in April
this year. The sun does not always shine
in Rome but I liked how the bridge was
reflected in the river.

HOW TO ENTER Email high-resolution (300dpi) jpegs of your photos of Italy to


italia@anthem-publishing.com or send prints to Reader Photo Competition at the
address given on page 18. Please include a brief explanation of your photo,
plus your name, delivery address and a phone number (for our couriers).
You must be over 18 to enter.
READER OFFER Italia! readers get a 10 per cent discount off Nino
Franco wines from www.sommelierschoice.com until 1 June 2015 by
entering the code italia10 at the checkout.
Please note: Any photos you submit must be your own work and you must have
the right to send them for inclusion on this page. By sending your entry, you are
confirming that Italia!s use of your photo(s) will not constitute infringement of any
rights, and confirming that you are over 18.

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NEWS

THIS MONTH
January 2015

In Italian news this month, quashed quake convictions, rats in the


courtroom, ice-cream scandals and dont eat the mushrooms

EARHQUAKE SCIENTISTS HAVE THEIR


CONVICTIONS QUASHED

All photography iStock, unless otherwise stated

Its the case thats gripped Italy, and now theres another dramatic twist in the story.
The seven so-called disaster experts who were sent to prison for failing to predict an
earthquake in LAquila that killed 309 people and destroyed many historic buildings
have had their convictions overturned. The men were members of a committee who were
assigned to the Medieval town in 2009 after a series of tremors had been reported in the
region. But days after they had given assurances to residents that there was no danger, a
quake measuring 6.3 on the Richter scale struck the town. Controversially, the scientists
were each sentenced to six years in prison but following a month-long appeal, which
included a 5,000-strong petition delivered to Italian President Giorgio Napolitano, the
decision has been reversed. The prosecution can still seek to have the sentence reinstated
through a higher court.

CERNELLI IS THE
GRAPE CRUSADER

If youre the kind of person who only knows


two types of wine red and white then you
might benefit from Daniele Cernillis new
book. The Gambero Rosso co-founder has
spent months compiling his Guida Essenziale
ai Vini dItalia 2015, and he promises that
hes left no stone unturned, saying, I have
personally visited every winery in the book,
and I have tasted all the wines. In all, 871
wineries are covered in the book, ranging
from the bigger names such as the renowned
prosecco house Villa Sandi, right down to the
smallest producers, such as the 7,500-bottle
Oasi degli Angeli in Marche. With something
like 2,500 wines assessed and scored, we can
only hope that he didnt sample them all
in one sitting! The book is currently only
available in Italian, but Cernilli is hoping that
an English version will be available next year.

S...SNIPPETS...SNIPPETS...SNIPPETS...SNIPPETS...SNIPPETS...SNIPPETS...S
GELATOGATE ROCKS THE CABINET

GINO TO SET UP DACAMPO IN MANCHESTER

In a mini-scandal that has been dubbed Gelatogate


among followers on Twitter, a picture of a female
government minister in Italy has been labelled as
lewd and sexually suggestive. The picture, published
in gossip magazine Chi, showed Marianna Madia a
member of Matteo Renzis cabinet eating an ice cream
in the passenger seat of a car driven by her husband,
alongside the headline, She knows how to do it with
an ice cream. The centre-left Mayor of Rome, Ignazio
Marino, branded the picture vulgar and sexist, but
the magazines editor, Alfonso Signorini, remains
unrepentant, saying, Id [do] it again in a heartbeat.

If you own an Italian restaurant in Manchester,


look away now. Celebrity chef Gino DAcampo
has poured scorn on the citys Italian eateries,
claiming that not enough of them dish up
authentic cuisine. To redress the balance, he
has announced that he will be opening a new
branch of his My Pasta restaurant in next year,
to complement the one hes set up in London.
Everybody tries to do an Italian restaurant, but
I think they miss the understanding of what real
Italian food is all about, he said. Its about
simplicity, understanding flavours.

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Tavecchios comment caused an immediate outcry, and has already resulted in him
being excluded by Europes governing body, UEFA. Now FIFA has followed suit,
remarking, Our stance against any form of discrimination is unequivocal.
Photograph PA Photos

TAVECCHIO BANNED FOR


BANANAS COMMENT

Italian Football Association


President Carlo Tavecchio
will not be allowed to hold
a position within FIFA for
the next six months
after making a comment
that was deemed racist.
Talking about the lack
of opportunities for
young Italian players due
to the influx of foreigners
in Serie A, he said, In
England, they identify the
players coming in and, if
they are professional, they are
allowed to play. Here, instead
we get Opti Poba [a fictitious
African player], who previously ate
bananas and then suddenly becomes
a first-team player with Lazio. The
71-year-olds comment was made in
a speech to an assembly of Italys
amateur leagues, of which he
was president at the time. It
caused an immediate outcry,
and has already resulted
in him being excluded
by Europes governing
body, UEFA. Now FIFA
has followed suit,
remarking, Our
stance against
any form of
discrimination is
unequivocal.

UK AND US BUYERS SEEKING THE ITALIAN DREAM


What with the recent floods and the continuing crises at Opera Rome,
Italy could do with some good news. And here it is: according to a
report, UK and US buyers are increasingly seeking property in the
country. Explained Rupert Fawcett of estate agent Knight Frank, Italy
continues to face challenging market conditions with Europe again
coming under the spotlight recently over its muted economic growth,
and with some of Italys banks faring badly in the latest stress tests.
But la dolce vita remains a permanent feature and continues to draw
buyers wanting a slice of Italian life. Buying in Italy is primarily a
lifestyle choice not driven by short-term investment but longer-term
enjoyment, and these factors continue to allow the market a certain
level of resilience. According to Fawcett, there has been particular
interest in city properties, with Rome, Venice, Milan and Florence at
the top of the wishlist.

ETS...SNIPPETS...SNIPPETS...SNIPPETS...SNIPPETS...SNIPPETS...SNIPPETS
POLITICIAN ATTACKED AT ROMA CAMP

ARABS AND ARIAS

If theres one thing thats going to get your point


across, its slapping a politician in the face! Lucia
Borgonzoni, a councillor for the far-right Lega
Nord (Northern League) party, took the hit after
a heated verbal exchange with a woman at a Roma
camp in Bologna. The assault was captured on
video and quickly went viral, leading to the partys
leader, Matteo Salvini, to return to the camp to
iron out any issues. However, his visit was equally
turbulent, with his car being attacked and its
windows smashed. Lega Nord has been criticised
for its anti-immigration policies.

We never thought wed see the day when opera


was performed in the desert, but thats pretty
much what happened in November. As we went
to press, the Italian Embassy in the United Arab
Emirates was set to put on two special shows
by the Orchestra del Maggio Musicale Fiorentino
in the country to celebrate the 2014 Italian
Presidency of the Council of the European Union.
The orchestra was due to appear in Dubai on 16
November and then Abu Dhabi the following day,
performing symphonies by Antonio Vivaldi and
Francesco Maria Veracini.

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NEWS
LINGERIE MAGNATE LES WEXNER DEMANDS SPEEDY
REFUND ON RARE FERRARI
After he snapped up an extremely rare Ferrari at a Bonhams
auction in June this year, you can imagine that lingerie company
Victorias Secret owner Les Wexner must have been the happiest
person on the planet. However, not long after he had splashed
out the 11million (yes, really) on the 1954 Ferrari 375 Plus at
the Goodwood Festival of Speed, he learned that there was some
dispute about who actually owned the car, with three different
people each claiming a share of it. And he claims that Bonhams
knew this, and didnt tell him.
Wexner, whose fortune is estimated at 4.3bn, is now
demanding his money back, along with damages. A statement made
on behalf of his lawyers said: The allegations set out in the claim
against Bonhams and the sellers are that despite their knowledge of
the ongoing litigation in relation to the ownership of the car, false
representations to the contrary were made to the buyer prior to
sale, either fraudulently or recklessly.
The 11million Wexner paid for the Ferrari was the highest
known price for a road-legal car in England, and made it the worlds
third most expensive car ever sold at auction. Only five of this
particular model (pictured below), known as the Fearsome FourNine for its success on the race-track, were ever made. And now it
seems that one of those may be making its way back to Bonhams.

Photograph PA Photos

OH, RATS! NOW ROME COURT HAS A


RODENT PROBLEM

If youre ever in court and you smell a rat, look out because it might be a
real one! An infestation of the rodents has been discovered in Romes court
of appeal, Piazzale Clodio, causing a number of hearings to be abandoned.
They have set up home in the courts piping network, breaking the heating
system and polluting the water, so the court has announced that it will
be working on a limited schedule for around 30 days while the problem
is dealt with. Its necessary to reduce the number of court sessions to the
minimum, especially the cases that involve a lot of people, explained
court president Luciano Panzani. The news is likely to be met with groans
by people already frustrated by the notoriously slow Italian justice system
on average, it takes 2,866 days to go through the three tiers of justice in
Italy, compared to the international average of 616 days.

Not long after Les Wexner splashed out 11million (yes, really) on the
1954 Ferrari 375 Plus, he learned that there was some dispute about who
actually owned the car, with three different people claiming a share of it

PRESS...STOP PRESS...STOP PRESS...STOP PRESS...STOP PRESS...STOP P


POISONOUS MUSHROOMS ON THE RISE

WHATSAPP CITED IN ADULTERY CASES

The recent bad weather in Italy has led to a surge


in mushrooms poisonous ones. Opportunist
mushroom-gatherers have taken to the woods
and hills in their droves, but more than 220
people have been taken ill since the season began
in August, and four have died. Carla Alessi, a
health spokeswoman in Modena, revealed that
the victims were often elderly. Theyve been
gathering mushrooms since they were young, she
told La Stampa. But as they get older, their sight
and their memory weaken, and with it their ability
to recognise different varieties.

Social media has revolutionised how we


communicate, but its increasingly being used
by love cheats to conduct extra-marital affairs.
According to a recent report conducted by the
Italian Association of Matrimonial Lawyers,
WhatsApp is cited in 40 per cent of Italian
divorces caused by adultery. Explaining the trend,
President of the Association Gian Ettore Gassani
said, Lovers can now exchange risqu photos of
themselves, and we have seen adulterers using the
service to maintain three or four relationships at a
time its like dynamite.

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15:21PM

FOOD & PRODUCTS

ITALIA!'S

WATCH THIS!

Top picks

Our monthly round-up of our favourite Italian


products for the New Year. Music, travel, food
and wine and something for a rainy day

EAT THIS!

BENEVENTO BUTTER BISCUITS

The relatives are coming over and it seems all youve got in
the cupboard is a stale packet of Rich Teas. It just wont do!
To avoid embarrassment, stock up with a couple of boxes
of these subtly sumptuous butter biscuits from Benevento,
available at Carluccios online store. Not only are they light
and crunchy, as any good Italian biscuit should be, but
they come in a luxurious box too. Perfect for sharing while
watching an episode of your favourite TV show, or a One
Direction DVD. 10.95.

1D LIVE IN MILAN

Like them or loathe them (were


saying nothing), its worth
checking out this One Direction
concert DVD for the simple
reason that the show took place
inside AC and Inter Milans
hallowed San Siro stadium. We
all know what an incredible
atmosphere is generated by
those teams playing at home,
but seeing the place stuffed
with screaming 1D fans is
something else all together. Just
be thankful that you werent
having a quiet weekend break in
Milan when it happened. 9.

TRY THIS!
THE BEST HOTEL IN EUROPE?

When a hotel is named the best in Europe, you know youre in for a treat. Il Salviatino in
Fiesole-Florence has just scooped that very accolade after being voted for by Cond Nast
readers, and who could fail to be seduced by its idyllic country charm, imposing architecture
and close proximity (about 15 minutes by free shuttle bus) to the wonderful city of
Florence? The hotel has even got a spa and a pool, making it the perfect getaway following a
stressful week in the office. http://salviatino.com/luxury-hotel-florence-italy

H'S TOP 3...THIS MONTH'S TOP 3...THIS MONTH'S TOP 3...THIS MONTH

Top 3 Italyrelated APPS

These days we never go anywhere without


our mobile phones, or maybe even our
tablets, so why not make the most of them
with these free Italy-related apps

TRAIN TIMETABLE ITALY


Android, free
That time when we spent six hours waiting
for a train at Ventimiglia in 2003, how we would
have loved to have had something like this. This
free app features a comprehensive database of rail
journeys across Italy, and timetables can be saved
for offline viewing (a godsend when your phone or
tablet doesnt have any signal, as it often doesn't
when you are at a railway station). Tickets can be
bought through the app, and it even tells you about
delays in real time, so you can go and grab an espresso, safe in the knowledge that you
wont miss your departure.

16 ITALIA! January
12
December
2015
2013

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DRINK THIS!
HOME-MADE JAM

Theres something particularly


satisfying about eating
something thats been
handmade, whether that be
wine, cheese or bread. Thats
why we love this selection of
home-made jams. Made by
the Chiaverini brothers, who
established their business in
Florence way back in 1928,
they come in a range of
delicious flavours including
Figs & Almonds, Orange of
Sicily, and Mixed Berries, and
are packaged in stylish, hardplastic tubs. 8.95 from
www.notonthehighstreet.com
www.fratellichiaverini.com

JAMIE'S
UMBRELLA

Once Christmas is
over, all we have to
look forward to is
bad weather (sorry
to put a dampener
on things!). But this
funky, two-tone brolly
from Jamies Italian
will go some way to
brightening up those
miserable days. Put it
up as you head down
to your nearest Jamies
restaurant to tuck
into some delicious
fresh crab spaghettini,
washed down with
a nice, fresh glass
of the elderflowertinged Calvarino
Soave Classico.
12.50. http://shop.
jamiesitalian.com/
index.php/gifts/
umbrella.html

TOP 3...

CAIAROSSA 2010

You can read all about Super


Tuscan wines in this issues
Drink Italia! starting on page
89, but if youre after something
really out of the ordinary then be
sure to sample the just-released
2010 vintage of Caiarossa
from the Val di Cecina, coastal
Tuscany. Rich and warming, its
a seriously classy wine laiden
with ripe dark fruit and spice.
Its available now from Berry
Bros. & Rudd in the UK.
Phone for price information:
0800 280 2440 or visit bbr.com

FOCACCIA CLASSES

If youve been watching The Great British Bake-Off, youve probably got an
urge to rustle up something yummy in the oven. Carluccios currently runs a
programme of classes, and as weve always fancied making focaccia, its this
course that caught our eye. You will learn all about flour, how to make the
dough from scratch, and kneading techniques, before being encouraged to
make topped focaccia, filled focaccia and a calzone pizza. All while enjoying a
complimentary glass of wine! 30 per person. www.carluccios.com

THIS MONTH'S TOP 3...THIS MONTH'S TOP 3...THIS

ITALY WALLPAPERS
Android, free
A simple concept basically just
nice pictures of Italy to put on your phone
but one thats entirely worthwhile. Why?
Because theres no better way to brighten
up a Monday morning commute than by
switching on your handset and being thrust
straight into the Tuscan countryside with
a glass of red in your hand and the faint
sound of a mandolin drifting over the fields.
Okay, we cant promise the last two things, but with loads of lovely wallpapers
in HD, youre sure to soon get carried away.

ITALIAN RECIPES
iPhone, free
You can almost smell the pesto
emanating from the screen as you browse
the 1,200 or more recipes on this app. If
you think having such a massive selection
at your fingertips will only add to your
dinner-party stress, dont fret as the dishes
are separated into categories to make
things easier. Whether you want to cook
pasta, rice, a tasty dessert or just a snack,
the easy-to-follow instructions will help you to serve up Gino DAcampo-style
dishes in next to no time!

December
January 2015
2013ITALIA!
ITALIA! 17
13

IT122.TopPicks.sg4.indd 13

25/11/2014 13:37PM

NEWS

EVENTS IN JANUARY 2015


Planning a trip to Italy this month? Then prepare for another packed
programme of events that includes Carnival, opera, bonfires, Alpine craft fairs,
flags, fashion and spectacular body art!
1
2
3
4
5
6
7
8
9
10
11
12
13
14
15
16
17

CORTEO DEI RE MAGI


6 January
Milan
Even though, for most
of us, Christmas will
be over by now, today
is the day of Epiphany
in the Catholic Church,
when the arrival of
the Three Wise Men
is commemorated.
In Milan, they mark
the occasion with a
well-attended religious
procession led by three
actors playing the
sagacious trio. When
it arrives at the Piazza
Duomo, the wise men
offer presents to the
children of the poor,
before handing their
crowns to the priest.

18
19
20
21
22
23
24
25
26
27
28
29
30
31

FESTA DEL TRICOLORE


7 January
Nationwide
Today is National Flag
Day in Italy, so expect to
see those familiar green,
white and red colours
hanging from windows
and fl agpoles in every
street as the natives
puff out their chests
with national pride. But
heed this, fact fans:
its believed that the
fl ag is actually based
on the French tricolore,
which Napoleons troops
brought to Italian shores
in 1796 not that
Italians would ever like
to admit it!

PITTI UOMO 87
13-16 January
Florence
Florence is, of course,
best known for its
wonderful architecture,
art galleries and
museums (the Bellinis
arent too bad, either!),
but for four days
in January the city
temporarily forgets its
cultural heritage and
becomes the centre of
the fashion universe
(well, sort of). Fashion
shows, discussions with
designers and critics,
and other related
exhibitions fill the
programme, the theme
of which this year is
Walkabout Pitti.
www.pittiimmagine
.com/en

VIVA GLI SPOSI


15-18 January
Como
Many of us dream
of tying the knot in
some beautiful Italian
setting (George Clooney
and Wayne Rooney
actually did it, of
course not to each
other, obviously). Well,
this large trade fair in
Como will help you to
realise your ambitions,
bringing you hundreds
of Italian exhibitors
who will be well
versed in everything
from cake decoration
to dressmaking, and
of course the most
picturesque places to
actually say I do.
www.vivaglisposi.org

FESTA DI SANTANTONIO
ABATE
17 January
Nationwide
The Feast of Saint
Anthony the Abbot is
celebrated in many
Italian towns, especially
ones in the south. The
Egyptian Anthony is
the patron saint of
butchers, domestic
animals, basketmakers
and gravediggers, and
his day is marked with
processions, music and
bonfires (legend has
it he went to Hell to
steal the Devils fire!).
Just as we try to outdo
our neighbours with
the best Christmas
decorations, the
competition between
neighbourhoods to build
the best bonfire is as
fierce as the very fl ames
themselves!

HOMI MILANO
17-20 January
Milan
Italians take great
pride in their home
and appearance, so its
probably no surprise
that events like
HOMI are so popular.
Describing itself as a
lifestyle trade fair,
this huge, twice-yearly
event in Milan sees
hundreds of exhibitors
gather to show off
their latest products
everything from
kitchens to candles,
jewellery to garden
furniture. Even if
you dont plan to buy
anything, you could
happily spend the day
just window-shopping
and dreaming about
what your house of the
future might look like.
www.homimilano.com

14 ITALIA! January 2015

IT122.Events.sg4.indd 14

25/11/2014 12:15PM

Photograph iStock

Venice Carnival

WERTHER
18-29 January
Rome
There are few better
ways to brush away the
cobwebs and welcome in
the new year than with a
dose of opera. Composed
by the Frenchman Jules
Massenet, Werther is
loosely based on Johann
Wolfgang von Goethes
novel The Sorrows of
Young Werther. Tragic
though the story is,
youre sure to be uplifted
by the splendid backdrop
of the Teatro Costanzi,
the gorgeous costume
design and, of course,
the performances by the
singers themselves.
www.operaroma.it/eng

MOTORCIRCUS
24 & 25 January
Verona
Gear up for a two-day
motorsport extravaganza!
The Italians love fast
cars, making them and
driving them (as you
may have noticed) and
speed is definitely on the
agenda at MotorCircus in
Verona. A combination
of exhibitions and races
between cars of all
FESTA DI SAN
shapes and sizes, its
SEBASTIANO
become one of the most
20 January
important events on the
Sicily
European automobile
Sicily is the place to
calendar. Whats
be for this religious
more, buy a ticket for
celebration in honour
MotorCircus and youll
of the legendary Saint
get entry to sister event
Sebastian. Visit Mistretta the MotorBike Expo, too!
to see a huge statue of
www.motorcircus.it/
the saint being paraded
inglese
through the town by
60 men. Acireale sees a
parade, the centrepiece
of which is an ornate
silver carriage, and the
singing of hymns. And
in the city of Ortono, all
eyes are on a specially
made vaporetto as it sets
off a glorious firework
display in front of the
cathedral.

BODY ART WINTER


FESTIVAL
31 January & 1 February
Verona
FIERA DI SANTORSO
Tattoos and body art
DI AOSTA
arent to everybodys
30 & 31 January
taste, but theres
Aosta
nothing remotely tacky
Calling a village
or badly drawn about
picture-postcard is a
the designs on display
bit of a clich, but there at this prestigious event
really is no other way
in Verona. The best body
to describe the lovely
artists from around the
Aosta, nestled in the
world descend on Verona
Italian Alps. Its here
to get busy with their
that the 800-year-old
inks and sprays while
Fair of Saint Orso takes
the audience watches
place annually. Against
and wonders how they
a snowy backdrop,
manage to fashion such
artisan types trade their stunning illustrations
wares everything from onto the skin. Then,
woodwork to crochet to
the finished works are
homebaked goodies and exhibited theatrically
theres also a programme while the serious matter
of entertainment. For a
of judging takes place.
taste of traditional, rural www.winterbody
Italy, look no further.
artfestival.com/en

CARNIVAL OF VENICE
31 January 17 February
Venice
If youve never been to
the Carnival of Venice,
make sure you put it on
your bucket list! Its a
bewitching experience,
as thousands of people
tourists and natives
turn up in elaborate
costumes and masks to
celebrate the best that
the city has to offer.
Expect everything from
decorated boats and
gondolas to colourful
street theatre to
myriad gastronomic
opportunities. They
call it the worlds most
delicious festival, and
its hard to argue!
www.venice-carnivalitaly.com

Please note that the dates of all events are subject to change. If you plan to attend, check events are going ahead before you travel. All attempts are made to present the correct details.

January 2015 ITALIA! 15

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16 ITALIA! January 2015

IT122.Viewpoint.sg4.indd 16

27/11/2014 10:45AM

VIEWPOINT
The Sassi di Matera are a series of ancient cave dwellings in the comune of
Matera, in Basilicata. In fact there are two series of caves: the Sasso Caveoso
and the later Sasso Barisano. And yes, they are still inhabited
Cave dwelling is nothing unusual. It has been
estimated that in China there are some 40 million
people living in caves. In Europe, in prehistoric
times, many of us lived in caves, at least for some
of the year. The term troglodyte (which just means
cave dweller) has come to be used derogatorily for
someone who is uncultured, ignorant, or perhaps
behind the times. This is unfair. Though in modern

Europe and there are people living in caves all


across the Continent it is only the very poor who
have traditionally been the cave-dwellers, today, with
the support of the government and other agencies,
that situation is changing, especially in places like
Matera. In the Sassi di Matera, where there was once
little but malaria, there are now thriving cafs and
hotels, and a surprising amount of wealth.

January 2015 ITALIA! 17

IT122.Viewpoint.sg4.indd 17

27/11/2014 10:45AM

ITALIA!
www.italytravelandlife.com

Wine tour holiday


specialists
Gourmet food and
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guests in our small
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Visits to many selected
cellars with wine tasting
and food to match
Exclusive Italian wines
delivered to your door
Details of our tours and
wines on our website

www.solovini.co.uk

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27/11/2014 13:36PM

LETTERS TO ITALIA!
Share your Italian experiences with us by sending your photos and letters
to italia@anthem-publishing.com youll receive a gourmet gift voucher
if youre chosen as our Letter of the Month winner

ETTER

NTH L

HAPPY ANNIVERSARY ITALIA!

JAN
2015

OF T

Congratulations on the 10-year anniversary of


Italia! I enjoyed just now reading your Welcome
remarks in the November 2014 issue, learning
more about how the magazine came to be.
Thought I would share with you how a
couple of Texans found your magazine
In early 2010, my husband started planning a trip to Italy in
celebration of my 50th birthday. We were living in the Houston
area and he discovered your magazine and
started a subscription. We both immediately
immersed ourselves in all things Italia! The
more he learned about the La Marche region
the more he said that is where we should go.
In particular, he learned of a wonderful
Agriturismo called La Tavola Marche from
your magazine, including the story of
PLE
how young Americans Ashley and Jason
E CULTURE PEO
WIN
D
FOO
PERTY
HOLIDAYS PRO
Bartner started their bed and breakfast
n house
cooking school. And so it was to be we
and restore the Italia
How to find, buy s perfect for you
that
spent two wonderful weeks in Italy,
learning to cook, exploring the country
and falling in love with the food, the
wine, the people and the architecture.
GNA
48 HOURS IN BOLO
e capital of Italy
A weekend in the foodi
Upon returning to the States, we
TALCINO
A TASTE OF MONthe
fine wine
Its not all about
THE SOUND
found ourselves being assigned to
N?
OF MUSIC
TRAI
OR
E
PLAN
TAKING THE embark on a skiing holiday
The best way to
London for a two-year work assignment.
small plates
Italian light bites and
We made sure that Italia! followed us
to the UK. We dreamed of buying property and
moving to Italy. We did make our way to Rome for a wonderful visit
to that historic city, but work prevented us from exploring more.
In June, 2013, we moved back to the States. Since we couldnt
move to Italy, we wanted to try and replicate it as best we could.
We bought a home that reminded of us old world Italian charm.
The house was conceived in a villa outside of Siena, Italy, and is
named Villa Bella Terra. It sits in the Texas hill country. The area
is filled with wineries and olive farms. Based on our wonderful
cooking experience at La Tavola Marche, we built an outdoor kitchen
under the 150-year-old oak trees, equipped with a wood-burning
pizza oven. Now weekends are filled with perfecting dough, making
homemade pizza sauce and spending time with family and friends.
All of these adventures would not have happened without the
discovery of your magazine. And Italia! has now followed us to our
little slice of Italy in Texas. Every issue I tear out pages of places I
want to go and properties I want to buy!
Cheers to ten more years of Italia! I wish you and your staff,
advertisers and partners continued success. All the best,
Lisa Baker, via email

MO
HE

ITALIA!

!
ITALAMIHA
OME
NEW WEBSITE!

2014
Issue 120 November

.com
www.italytravelandlife

4.40

2014
Issue 120 Novenmber

YOUR DRE

RESTORATION
PROJECTS 48
HOURS IN BOLOGNA

OPERA IN TUSCANY

ITALIAN FINGER

FOOD

.com
www.italytravelandlife

y
Opera in Tuscan
2014
Issue 120 November

T ITALY
MAGAZINE ABOU
RD-WINNING
THE UKS AWA

11

4.40

11

9 771744 796054
9 771744 796054

30/09/2014

18:43PM

g7.indd 1

IT120.Cover.s

Our letter of the month (when based in the UK) will win a 25
voucher to spend at www.delicibo.com, recently launched to
complement the Chesterfield-based Calabria Cucina & Delicibo Deli.
delicibo.com
provides a
wide range of
artisan Italian
food and drink
items for your
enjoyment at
home.

ITALIA! EXPORT TIMES

I have enjoyed Italia! magazine for


many years. One thing that could
be improved is the date for replying
to surveys or contests. Here in the
United States we receive our monthly
issue just a few days before the start of
the next months issue. I received the
November issue today (27 October)
and you are having a survey that must
be submitted by 30 October. It gives
us a few days, but most people will
not read the issue immediately.
All in all, I thoroughly enjoy
the different monthly 48 Hours,
property restorations, property for sale,
food and wine features, etc. Keep up
the great work.
Hank Lisciotti, via email
Thanks for the feedback Hank. Well look to
extend the application dates for competitions
in the future wherever we can. Sometimes,
however, these are dictated by the companies
who are granting us the competitions rather than
ourselves, as was the case with the Reader Survey
competition that ran in our November 2014 issue.

GAZZETTA ITALIA!

I read Charles Taylors letter in


the November issue about the
translations in the Gazzetta Italia!
column with interest.
I am a professional translator
currently the only Chartered Linguist
working from Italian and writer
living in the hills near Latina with my
Italian wife, who teaches English (an
interesting combination!).
In my view, it is important that
the Italian text in the Gazzetta column
be written by an Italian native speaker,
so that your readers are exposed
to authentic Italian, not Italian
constructed by a Brit, which (no
matter how good they are) is always
going to lack a certain something.
I agree with Charles that readers
need to be able to see easily what
each word means, but Im not
convinced that a literal translation
is the answer. His example includes
some slightly unnatural wording,

An Italian postcard (sent in 1912).


But how would you translate it?

such as Miss Jasmine, exceptional


clairvoyant, who offers to reveal my
destiny; if the translation sounds
awkward, readers may be put off
or may go away thinking that the
Italian text was clumsy, too (and
why is Italia! publishing clumsy
Italian, they may say...).
So what you could do would be
to use an Italian text written by an
Italian and a professional English
translation of it done by a Brit
that stays as close to the original
as possible yet without sacrificing
elegance; any twiddly bits could
then be explained by footnotes.
Oliver Lawrence, via email

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January 2015 ITALIA! 19

IT122.Letters.sg4.indd 19

25/11/2014 12:19PM

L I V I N G I TA L I A !

Homes on a

Budget
Want a home in Italy for less than 150,000? No problem. There are lots of ways
to get yourself a slice of sunny dolce vita at a rock-bottom price.
Fleur Kinson guides you through lots of options

Photography iStock, unless stated

he worst of the recent international


fantastic lifestyle and culture to which a home in Italy
recession might have passed, but that
gives you access.
doesnt mean that we arent still looking
With farmhouses in Tuscany famously going for a
for ways to economise. Even if youre in the million euros or more, you might be surprised to learn
fortunate position of being able to consider that you can actually get a decent bolthole in Italy for
buying a home abroad, chances are that you dont want
as little as 50,000. Push your potential expenditure
to spend any more than you absolutely have to. Or
up nearer 100,000 or even 150,000 and your range
maybe youre in a slightly different position, one in
of options grows surprisingly wide. Location, property
which you dont know whether or not you could actually type, and even purchasing style can all hugely affect how
afford to buy anything in Italy. Either way, you should
much you pay for a home in Italy. Lets look at each of
read on.
these in turn.
With its manifold cultural
blessings and sophisticated clientele,
LOCATION, LOCATION
Italy has never been the cheapest of
Youll be aware that some parts of
Mediterranean countries in which to
Italy are much pricier for property
buy a home, but it has always offered
than others. A roughly accurate
superb value-for-money and it has
generalisation is that northern
always been a safe place to invest.
Italy tends to cost a bit more than
Italy has a famously stable property
southern Italy, but you should note
market with no tendency towards
that its not impossible to find lowmad booms and busts (so money spent
priced, good-quality homes in the
on property here doesnt suddenly and
north too. Central Italy specifically
substantially depreciate); there are all
the regions of Tuscany, Umbria and
sorts of wise restrictions on building
Le Marche see some of the countrys
and development (so the area you buy
priciest rural property. This is the
in cant be spoiled or homes de-valued
heartland of the expensive farmhouse
by a sudden excess of them on the
surrounded by vines and olive groves.
market); and the country itself never
Meanwhile, if a cheap urban home is
wanes in popularity (so re-sale values
what you fancy, then Milan, Rome,
are protected).
Venice and Florence are the cities to
Further value comes in the sheer
avoid, as theyre the most expensive.
Small town houses can
quality of Italian buildings and
So where should you look?
be excellent value
building work, and of course in the
Well, you can either target
20 ITALIA! January 2015

IT122.HomesOnaBudget.sg4.indd 20

26/11/2014 15:49PM

Molise is one of Italys


cheaper regions

January 2015 ITALIA! 21

IT122.HomesOnaBudget.sg4.indd 21

26/11/2014 15:49PM

L I V I N G I TA L I A !

If you want a
home by the sea,
have a look at
Calabria

CASA ANNA
Type of property House
Number of bedrooms 1-2
Price 49,000
Location Sibylline Mountains
Contact Picene Homes ian@picenehomes.com
+39 0734 711856 www.picenehomes.com
Small, habitable house, in stone and brick, rendered at the front,
in quiet hamlet near the Sibylline Mountains. On three floors
Ground floor: storerooms, could be converted. First floor: kitchen/
dining room with fireplace, bedroom, shower room. Second
floor: loft, could also be converted to bedroom. Approx 70sqm.
Water and electricity connected. Large back garden. 5km from
Medieval hill town of Amandola and within walking distance of
the mountains.

CASA GIGLI
Type of property House
Number of bedrooms 2-4
Price 80,000
Location Le Marche
Contact Picene Homes ian@picenehomes.com
+39 0734 711856 www.picenehomes.com
Basically habitable detached house on edge of small rural hamlet
with private garden and good views of countryside. Generally
in good condition. Ground floor: 2 storerooms. First floor (with
ground floor entrance at front): kitchen/dining room, living
room, shower room. Second floor (entrance via outside stairs):
2 bedrooms. An internal staircase can be made to connect the 3
floors. The ground floor rooms could be converted to 2 bedrooms
or kitchen/dining room, living room, with 4 bedrooms on the top
two floors, or 3 large bedrooms and a large bathroom. Approx 100
sqm total volume.

regions which are well-known to be


inexpensive, or you can cunningly
aim for the least expensive stretches
of regions well-known to be
expensive. What might that mean
in practice? For inexpensive regions,
have a look at Abruzzo, Molise and
Basilicata. You can get good country

expensive Rome in its middle,


but explore the regions lovely
countryside and small towns and
youll find some very reasonablypriced homes.
On the subject of inexpensive
regions, Simone Rossi of the online
property portal Gate-Away.com

Molise has only recently been discovered by


foreign buyers and has incredibly low prices
homes in these places for well under
100,000, and sometimes coastal
properties for around that amount.
Despite its popularity, Puglia the
high heel of the Italian boot is
still a fairly inexpensive place and it
contains many pockets of low-priced
property to investigate. The sea is
never far away wherever you are in
Puglia. Buyers specifically looking
for very cheap seaside property,
meanwhile, should definitely take a
look at Calabria.
But as we have already said,
even famously pricy regions have
their secret cheap bits. Tuscanys far
north and far south, for example,
both offer rural homes for less than
150,000, as do the edges of lovely
Umbria. Glamorous Campania,
home of Capri and the Amalfi
Coast, has some astonishingly lowpriced villages in its hilly interior.
Paradise-island Sardinia, playground
of millionaires, has comparatively
inexpensive parts along its coasts
and especially inland. Likewise
Sicily. Lazio might have super-

is very enthusiastic about Molise.


Molise has only recently been
discovered by foreign buyers and
has incredibly low prices, he says.
We feature properties needing
restoration here starting from
7,000; others needing only
Rural Abruzzo is often
highly affordable

22 ITALIA! January 2015

IT122.HomesOnaBudget.sg4.indd 22

26/11/2014 15:58PM

minor work from around 12,000;


and habitable homes starting from
around 25,000. Simone also
agrees that even expensive regions
have their inexpensive parts. In
Tuscanys Chianti area you cant even
buy a heap of rotten stones for less
than 400,000, he says, but in
the Lunigiana and Garfagnana areas
of northern Tuscany you can find a
detached house in good condition
for around 100,000.

Photo Molly Estern

AND MORE LOCATION


Specific regions aside, there are
at least two other generalities
concerning location in Italy which
any budget buyer ought to know.
They are, in a nutshell: rural
locations are usually less expensive
that urban ones; and higher
elevations are usually cheaper than
lower ones. Hang on a minute, you
say, rural and higher up are what I
prefered anyway. Yes, happily, many
of the types of locality favoured
by foreign buyers are in fact less
expensive than the type of locality
favoured by Italians themselves.
Cities and towns are where the
jobs are, so naturally most Italians
want to live in or near them.
Country homes, and especially
homes in small villages, therefore,
still present some great bargains
for the foreign buyer. So if youre
looking for space and quiet or for
a slow-paced life in a small, warm
community (and you probably are),
the market is in your favour.

Molly Estern and her


daughters in Italy

OUR BUDGET HOME

orkshirewoman Molly Estern owns a small country home on the


borderlands of Basilicata and Puglia, in the far south of Italy. She and
her four daughters visit the property several times a year, and always
spend Christmas there.
What drew Molly to Italy? My first husband was Italian, she explains,
and through him and our many trips to Italy, I couldnt help falling in love
with the place. Obviously the weather and the food were huge attractions, but
what really drew me in was the friendliness of the people and the happy, healthy
lifestyle they seemed to lead. All those walks around town in the evening,
and chatting with your neighbours, and the little shops. I loved the sense of
community especially in small-town Italy.
After my second husband died a few years ago, I felt like I needed a massive
change, or at least something new to think about. Id always had a dream about
owning a house in Italy one day, and I assumed it would always be just that a
dream. But then I thought why not see if its actually really possible? and if not
now, then when? I had never thought I would be able to afford a home abroad,
but when I started doing some research I discovered that there was a lot of
surprisingly affordable property in Italy if you looked carefully. My budget was
around 120,000. I discussed the whole idea with my daughters, and they all
said I should go for it.
The house sits just outside a little village in Basilicata. I paid 98,000 for it,
which still seems a great bargain. There are three bedrooms, and my daughters
are happy to double-up when were all here together. It was habitable when
I bought it, although we made some minor repairs and quickly changed the
original interior dcor, which was ghastly! At first I worried that we might be
a bit too remote here, but that turned out to be unfounded. The roads are good
to all the places I want to go and the local people couldnt have been friendlier
or more welcoming. Im never lonely here, not even when I come and stay by
myself. Not many people nearby speak English, and by necessity my Italian has
come on in leaps and bounds! But the language barrier never seems an obstacle
to social life here. The people in the village love to include my daughters in all
group gatherings, and they dont care a fig if they cant speak Italian everyone
still has great fun together. The time we spend down here is just wonderful, and
Im so pleased that I made the leap and bought the house.
January 2015 ITALIA! 23

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L I V I N G I TA L I A !

MARINA DI LIZZANO
Type of property House
Number of bedrooms 4
Price 110,000
Location Taranto
Contact Casa Travella Ltd
01322 660 988 www.casatravella.com
This lovely 4-bedroom detached house is located in Marina di
Lizzano, south of Taranto, just 5 minutes walk from the beaches
of the Ionian Sea, and yet just over the hour from Brindisi airport.
The property provides about 180sqm of accommodation over two
floors as follows: Ground floor: Large living/dining room with
fireplace, kitchen, 2 bedrooms, bathroom, covered veranda for
outside dining, barbecue and pizza oven. First floor: Large living/
dining room with fireplace, kitchen, 2 bedrooms, bathroom,
covered veranda for outside dining which overlooks the sea and
staircase leading to the roof terrace. The property also benefits
from a garage and outside parking space. This is an ideal property,
which with a little modernisation would have excellent rental
potential for holiday rentals. Energy Classification G

MONTEMEZZO
Type of property Apartment
Number of bedrooms 2
Price 135,000
Location Lake Como
Contact Casa Travella Ltd
01322 660 988 www.casatravella.com
This 2-bedroom apartment is on the upper floor of a small
complex in Montemezzo, on the northern shore of Lake Como,
just above Gera Lario with its pretty harbour, and benefits from
superb views over the lake. About 95sqm of accommodation
consisting of: Large living/dining room with balcony overlooking
the lake, fully fitted kitchen with second balcony overlooking
the pool, 2 large bedrooms and bathroom. Furnished, including
leather sofas and double sofa bed enabling it to sleep up to 7
people. Central heating, double glazing and low maintenance
costs. Private parking and use of the communal swimming pool.
Within easy reach of all 3 Milan airports.

Houses in the Apennines are


cheaper than on the coast

Every region of Italy offers abundant


countryside and small communities,
so you have a very wide range of
areas to choose from.
Italy is a surprisingly
mountainous country, with more
than half the national landscape
consisting of mountains. The Alps
and Dolomites dominate the north,
while the softer, lower Apennines
stretch for six hundred miles down
the whole of the Italian boot to
its foot. Move inland from just
about any part of Italys hugely
long coastline, and youll soon
start climbing which makes for
increasingly wonderful panoramic

PROPERTY TYPES
Another factor that counts in the
average foreign buyers favour
is that, in Italy, older homes are
usually less expensive than newer
ones. Perhaps overwhelmed by their
nations wealth of history, many
Italians want nothing more than
to live in a slick, modern property
where everything works perfectly.
So older homes, and especially ones
needing minor restoration work, are
often comparatively inexpensive.
Lo and behold, foreign buyers are
very often specifically looking for an
older home, believing they contain
more charm and character.

The further you move inland, and thus


higher up, the lower property prices will be
views, of course. Italians tend to
favour living in their countrys lower
elevations; most of the cities and
towns are down here, and its easier
to get around. Particularly when
they buy seaside property, Italians
want to be down on sea level and as
close to the beach as possible. But
you, as a clever foreign buyer, can
take advantage of the fact that the
further you move inland, and thus
higher up, the lower the property
prices. Yes you might have a slightly
longer journey to the beach, but
youve got a quieter area and much
better views from your window.

Tumbledown old homes needing


a lot of building work used to
represent superb bargains in Italy.
You could buy an uninhabitable
pile of old stones at a rock-bottom
price, do it up beautifully using
Italys excellent and inexpensive
builders and craftsmen, and end up
with a house worth far more than
what you paid for the building
plus the restoration work. Brilliant.
Today its debatable whether doing
a big restoration project like this is
economical. The general view seems
to be that the two cheapest types
of restoration now are the total

24 ITALIA! January 2015

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Picene Homes
Registered Estate Agents
in Le Marche

Villas

Townhouses

Apartments

Founded in 1987 on Lake Como


Specialists in many areas of Italy

Farmhouses

tion projects

Specialists in resora

Can assist with the


whole buying process

www.picenehomes.com

T 0039 335 1890158

IT122.Adp25.sg1.indd 25

Casa Travella Ltd

with 25 years experience

FOR EXPERT PROFESSIONAL AND INDEPENDENT ADVICE

0VER 700 PROPERTIES IN MOST AREAS OF ITALY

Email us at lindatravella@hotmail.co.uk
or call us on +44 (0)1322 660988
visit us at www.casatravella.com

27/11/2014 12:22PM

L I V I N G I TA L I A !

BUDGET REGIONAL GUIDE

26 ITALIA! January 2015

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INTRODUCTION
Italian property can offer incredibly
good value for money and the market
is famously reliable. A low price can,
therefore, be the perfect investment
for a foreign buyer. Obviously prices
will vary hugely according to the area
and region. As a general rule, those
looking for a bargain are advised to
seek rural properties rather than those
in cities, and to look for locations
further inland. Going inland, which
usually also means going uphill, is
another route to bargain properties.
Puglia has some real property bargains

THE NORTH

Northern Italy offers a wide range


of town
and country property options
1

and a real diversity of geography. It


is, of course, usually going to be more
expensive compared to the south of
the country but if youre set on a
northern home there are some places
where budget buys can be found. As
a general rule, its wise to stay away
from the headline seaside resorts
such as Liguria, and head for the hills
instead. Once you start searching
inland the prices will noticeably drop.
Head yet further north and youll find
that although property doesnt tend
to come cheap in the sophisticated
region of Piedmont, there are parts
of the region where youre more
likely to grab a bargain. The smaller
towns around the province are a good
starting point, and Turin although
not exactly cheap makes a wellpriced city option. There is also
considerable tourist revenue to be
made from the tourist footfall here.
If you are keen to buy in the north,
there are some good options for
apartments and townhouses such as
Brescia in Lombardy, Trieste in Fruili
and some parts of the Veneto (Verona,
Padua and Treviso to name a few).
Generally, though, the smaller towns
are what you want to be looking for.
And very often this can match with
your Italian dream: if you are seeking
a slower way of life filled with fresh
produce, vineyards and olive groves,
then a cheaper rural setting is always
going to suit you more.

CENTRAL AREAS

idea is, unfortunately, to


stayTheawaybestfrom
the appealing regions
2

of Tuscany and Umbria. They have


been too popular for too long to find
many discounted prices here, except
possibly in certain pockets on the
extremites of these regions. Anyone
on a tight budget will struggle to
find any bargains in these perennially
popular regions, but help is at hand.
The good news is that there are some
equally beautiful places in the vicinity
that offer much cheaper properties. Le
Marche should be top of your list of
considerations. It has an abundance
of glorious countryside and a host
of charming towns, with stable but
still-developing property prices.
Look inland to towns like Fermo or
Macerata, or, even better, to more
remote towns of the regions hilly
hinterland. Abruzzo is a developing
market that offers some good buys too
there are even a few bargains not
too far from the coast in some parts,
but the regions lowest prices are to be
found in the wilder, more rural areas
within the environs of the Gran Sasso
massif. Obviously, any budget property
hunter is going to want to avoid
Rome, but you should certainly not
rule out the rest of the Lazio region
seek out village apartments in its
northern La Tuscia area, rural homes
in the Sabine Hills or head at least an
hour south of Rome for homes around
the picturesque Apennine foothills.

THE SOUTH
In general terms the south is the
cheapest
part of Italy to buy property.
3

And, even better, these sun-kissed,


laid-back areas offer some wonderful
locations to base a second home,
with a great climate, good food and
a pleasant pace of life. Puglia is one
of the souths most popular regions,
and the demand from foreign buyers
for property here has been gowing
steadily over the past decade or so. As
a result, prices have climbed, but there
are still bargains to be had. If you
want to seek out a more undiscovered
land, Basilicata or Calabria would
both be worth a look. Basilicata is
pretty untouched by foreign buyers,
and even its coastal homes come in
much cheaper than elsewhere in Italy.
Look inland from Maratea to find the
regions best bargains and some
of the countrys cheapest property.
Calabria is becoming more popular,
largely thanks to budget flights to the
local Lamezia Terme airport, not to
mention its fantastic coast and natural
landscapes. As a rule, the eastern
coast of the region is cheaper than
that of the west, and for properties
further inland, take a look at some
of the hill-towns dotted around the
town of Cosenza. You can rule out
some parts of Sicily, such as glitzy
Taormina, but if you like the idea of
island life, look to the west coast, to
towns around the Marsala area for the
best prices.

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L I V I N G I TA L I A !

CIBIANA DI CADORE
Type of property Apartment
Number of bedrooms 2
Price 130,000 for 2-bedroom property with car space and
storage area (was 150.000). 165,000 for 3-bedroom
property reduced from 190,000.
Location Belluno
Contact Casa Travella Ltd
01322 660 988 www.casatravella.com
These stunning 2-bedroom ski apartments are in the beautiful
village of Cibiana di Cadore, Belluno, just 8km from San Vito di
Cadore, 20km from Cortina dAmpezzo, and about 1 hour 20 mins
from Marco Polo airport, slightly less from Treviso. The village is
in the heart of the Dolomites, in a strategic position for skiers,
with magnificent views over the mountains from the balcony.
The apartments provide spacious accommodation, one with 2
bedrooms, bathroom, living room with open plan kitchen, storage
area and car space, the other set on 2 floors with 3 bedrooms
and 2 bathrooms, living room with open plan kitchen, garage and
storage area. The apartments have a heated ramp for the winter.
An excellent opportunity to purchase a beautiful apartment in a
characteristic mountain village noted for its splendid murals.

MONTEFIORE DELLASO
Type of property House
Number of bedrooms 3
Price 215,000
Location Le Marche
Contact info@magicmarche.com +39 331 381 9509
www.magicmarche.com
A very pretty house just 15 minutes drive from the sea, shortly
to feature on A Place In The Sun. Whilst fully restored, the house
retains a lovely rustic charm, totally in keeping with its former
pirate lookout heritage. The house is built on 3 floors with stone
flooring and exposed beams. There are 3 bedrooms, one as part of
a self-contained studio (with rental potential). Outside there are
12 olive trees, also fruit and nut trees. On the first floor is a large
terrace with jacuzzi (included in the sale), for enjoying lovely
sunsets. House code 559.

Urban apartments tend to be well built


and often cheaper than in the UK

and the minor, while the simply


big tends not to be good value. So,
if you knock down a ruin and build
again from scratch using recovered
materials, thats pretty economical.
Or if you buy a place needing
only cosmetic interior work, thats
economical too. But a standing
house that needs a lot doing
probably wont save you money.
On the subject of property types,
have you considered an apartment

could consider fractional ownership


(also known in the United States as
residence clubs). This flexible and
well-established system allows you
to spend a certain number of weeks
at a gorgeous property every year,
with other co-owners staying there
when youre not.
Note that this is not timeshare.
Fractional ownership is very
different, because you actually own
a share of the property itself. Your

The fractional ownership system has become


increasingly popular in Italy over recent years
rather than a detached property?
Brits in particular tend to shy away
from apartments, fearing they lack
privacy and might be noisy. But
Italy builds apartments very well,
and with long-term living in mind.
If youre after an urban location on
a small budget, an apartment is
likely to be your only option, but
buyers interested in small towns and
villages should note that apartments
in such places represent particularly
excellent value for money. Even if
what you really want is to be out in
the countryside, you might find that
an apartment in a tiny village on
the edge of countryside could be an
excellent money-saving option.
UNUSUAL PURCHASE
Finally, a quick word on how you
might buy. If you only want to
pay a five-figure sum for a holiday
home worth six or seven figures, you

name is on the deeds with the other


co-owners. And as the property
appreciates in value, so does your
share. Just as with conventional
ownership, you can sell your share,
leave it in a will, transfer it or place
it in a trust any time you like.
The system has become increasingly
popular in Italy over recent years,
and buyers looking for ways to save
money should definitely learn more
about this option.
When it comes to getting
yourself a home in Italy on a small
budget, you see there are many ways
you might go about it.

USEFUL CONTACTS
www.appassionata.com
www.casatravella.com
www.picenehomes.com
www.magicmarche.com
www.gate-away.com

28 ITALIA! Januray 2015

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ITALIA15
27/10/2014 13:43

Photograph iStock

D I S C O V E R I TA L I A !

Clockwise from
top left: A
carabiniere in
ceremonial dress;
Baroque statue,
Monreale; taking
a break from
transporting
tourists; Palermo
cathedral from
the outside; and
from within;
a wedding
in Palermo;
Monreale
cathedral; the
Teatro Massimo

30 ITALIA! January 2015

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25/11/2014 15:45PM

Photography James Miller unless stated

48 HOURS IN

Palermo
Each region of Italy is unique, but there is none quite so
different to the rest of the country as Sicily. James Miller
finds he cant keep away from its capital city

hey say that Italy is a diverse cultural tapestry. Each region can
be considered a country in its own right. There is one region that
exemplifies this theory perhaps more than others, Sicily. Italy is
undoubtedly a land bursting with creativity and emotion and
numerous trips to Palermo, Sicilys capital, have taught me that
Sicily epitomises these characteristics. My love affair with the island started some
eight years ago with my first visit to Palermo and its environs. The cultural
intensity of the city and its crumbling beauty was so intoxicating that Ive been
returning ever since. As the plane descended past the impossible blue of the
sea and approached the jagged and dramatic mountains surrounding FalconeBorsellino Airport, I felt a familiar sense of anticipation that once again I would
soon be experiencing these chaotic and stimulating ancient city streets.
The thrills and spills began with an exhilarating taxi ride from the airport
into the centre. As is customary in Palermo, the taxi driver weaved in and out
of the traffic with the reflexes of a fighter pilot, whilst cheerily acknowledging
other Palermitans by hollering out of the taxi window. I was dropped off at the
Hotel Porta Felice. The hotel is set in a historic palazzo tucked away in a back
street near the port, a veritable temple of calm and serenity amidst the glorious
confusion of the city. Once I dropped my gear off and threw an espresso down
my neck I was fuelled up and ready to embrace the sensory bombardment that
awaited me.
January 2015 ITALIA! 31

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D I S C O V E R I TA L I A !

WHAT TO SEE AND DO

IL CONVENTO DEI CAPPUCCINI 1


Piazza Cappuccini, 1
I didnt get there on this trip but this is
one of the must-visit sites in Palermo.
Sicilians are known to be fatalistic, but
to truly experience the full implications
of this mentality, a trip to the convents
catacombs is recommended. The practice
of burying the dead in the crypt began in
the 16th century when the monasterys
graveyard became full, and continued
through the plague of 1624 right
into the 20th century. It is a fascinating
experience, but not one for the fainthearted: it really is quite macabre.

I QUATTRO CANTI 2
This is the heart of the city and possibly
the place you should start at if this is
your first visit to Palermo. Look up at
the buildings that represent each of the
corners and you can see stunning Baroque
statues of Sicilys four Spanish kings, a
reminder that despite Palermos fading
beauty this city was once a dazzling
beacon of European power and glory.

IL TEATRO MASSIMO 3
Piazza Verdi
% +39 091 605 3521
www.teatromassimo.it
Palermos opera theatre is an artistic
masterpiece. It is the largest opera house
in Italy and the third largest in Europe
(after the Opra National de Paris and
the Vienna State). Opened in 1897, its
classical-style columns are flanked by two
enormous bronze sculptures of lions. There
are guided tours for you to explore the
history and intrigue of the theatre. A night
at the opera is highly recommended for
true Sicilian culture.

SANTUARIO DI SANTA ROSALIA 4


Via Pietro Bonanno
% +39 091 540326
www.santuariosantarosalia.it
This 17th century church is conjoined to
the rocks of Monte Pellegrino. The church
is the sanctuary of Santa Rosalia, one of
Palermos patron saints. Santa Rosalia is
worshipped today by Palermitans for saving
the city from the plague during the 1600s.
Many locals are still devoted to Santa
Rosalia today.

LA OPERA DEI PUPI 5


Via Bara AllOlivella, 95
% +39 091 323400
Puppetry has been part of Sicilian culture
since the first half of the 19th century. The
Puppet Theatre regales audiences with oldworld story telling. Tales of ancient heroes
such as Charlemagne and French knights
keep the embers of history burning in a
time-honoured tradition.

The Church of Santa Rosalia is


built into the rock

DONT MISS
MONDELLO
This seaside
resort offers an
escape from the
congestion and
confusion of
the city centre.
During peak
season the beach
can be extremely
busy, but for
good reason.
This location is
picture perfect
and has an
excellent choice
in restaurants
and bars.

As an Englishmen used to
stomping around the structured and
orderly streets of London, Palermo
provides the perfect antithesis. Its
backstreets are a labyrinth of palazzi
from a bygone era, adorned with
once glorious faades and carvings of
Saracens and gargoyles peering down
into the dimly lit streets beneath.
Children are out enjoying the simple
pleasures of kicking a football around
the narrow streets, many of which look
underprivileged but robust, hardened

resplendent with frescoed walls and


shimmering chandeliers. The poor and
the rich have always lived shoulder to
shoulder in Palermo, adding to the
numerous contrasting elements of the
citys appeal.
The appearance and culture of
Palermos warren of streets have been
forged by successive invading forces
such as the Ancient Phoenicians,
Arabs, Saracens, Byzantine Greeks,
Romans, Normans and Spanish, all
leaving their genetic and artistic

Despite Palermos fading beauty it was once a


dazzling beacon of European power and glory
by the inner city life. However, these
children still have old world values of
respect, especially for the matriarchal
call to the dinner table.
Despite the apparent poverty
of Palermo it would be a mistake to
assume that these timeworn residences
housed only struggling families;
the decaying beauty of the palazzi is
misleading. If you look up through
the open shutters you can often see
sumptuous, high-ceilinged rooms,

legacies for the throngs of spellbound


tourists to enjoy.
After a dizzying stroll around
the backstreets, I decided to venture
into the heart of the city. The Quattro
Canti, or Four Corners, was my next
destination. This is where the four
main areas of the citys historic centre
are intersected. The Quattro Canti is
an amazing place to soak up Palermos
hustle and bustle. Regardless of class
or status, the sense of place and pride

32 ITALIA! January 2015

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WHERE TO STAY

The stunning and palatial


Villa Igiea

The best seats in the house


of the Teatro Massimo

PORTA FELICE 6
Via Butera, 45
% +39 091 817 5678
www.hotelportafelice.it
The Porta Felice offers an elegant and
stylish retreat from the excitement of
Palermos streets. An oasis of calm, the
hotels spa is an ideal way to relax and
reinvigorate before returning to the
city for more stimulation. The staff are
extremely friendly and offer an excellent
service. This hotel really does represent
great value for money.

GRAND HOTEL ET DES PALMES 7


Via Roma, 398
% +39 091 602 8111
www.grandhotel-et-des-palmes.com
Centrally located off Via Roma, the Grand
Hotel Et des Palmes is an ideal location
from which to venture into the city. The
sumptuous lobby resonates with glamour
and luxury from times gone by. The
rooms are spacious and allow the guests
to relax in luxury.

One of the Teatro Massimos


majestic bronze lions

the inhabitants often exhibit is surely


an enduring cultural sensibility from
this golden age of Palermos history.
A short walk from the Quattro
Canti leads to one of the citys many
water features, the enigmatic 16th
century Fontana Pretoria, in Piazza
della Vergogna. The statues have
all been masterfully crafted but,
true to form, Palermo throws in
the unexpected. The distorted and
disturbing facial features on some
seem to have been designed to shock
and repulse those who wish to take
a closer look. There are many Italian
cities that offer a predictable as stated
in the guide book experience: go to
Rome for a taste of ancient Imperial
majesty, to Florence for the treasures
of the Renaissance; however if its
surprise and beguilement youre after,
Palermo never fails.
Next I followed the direction of
one of the horse and carts clattering
along the road towards the citys
cathedral. A hardy looking boy and
his father were transporting tourists
around the historical centre. A timehonoured tradition in Palermo, this
was the preferred mode of transport
for the citys numerous aristocracy

and nobility during the belle poque


era. The Cathedral is one of the citys
showpieces; an exotic and spectacular
convergence of ancient cultures, it
resembles something of a Moorish
fortress surrounded by a lush oasis
of palm trees and well-maintained
gardens. The Cathedral was originally
constructed on the site of a mosque,
later transforming into a basilica;
however the majority of what can be
seen today was as a result of works
that began in 1185. The intricate
stonemasonry transports you back
in time to when Palermos Oriental
influence was at its zenith.
That evening I opted for some al
fresco dining in the warm, jasmineinfused sea air in the district of La
Kalsa. During Palermos Medieval
era, La Kalsa was the home to many
of the citys powerful merchant class,
although dining there today is a
much more down-to-earth and local
experience. I began my meal with
a typical Sicilian starter, caponata,
a culinary delight imbued with a
variety of tastes and textures, followed
by swordfish, grilled in the street
in front of me. The local children
were showing off stunts on their

DONT MISS
LA FONTANA
PRETORIA
A magnificent
example
of Baroque
architecture, the
Tuscan fountain
is surrounded
by jaw-dropping
statues of
tritons and
mythical
creatures
of the sea.
Intriguingly,
these forms lack
the physical
perfection seen
in other similar
Italian Baroque
water features,
such as Romes
Trevi fountain.

VILLA IGIEA HILTON 8


Salita Belmonte, 43
% +39 09 631 2111
www.villa-igiea.com
Originally part of the famous Florio
familys dynasty, this villa is the last
word in Palermitan extravagance. A
regular haunt of Italys glitterati, the
Villa Igiea offers a wonderful experience
in indulgence, Sicilian style. The
villas outdoor pool is a must for sunseekers and those wishing to relax and
contemplate the magic of Sicily.

MONDELLO PALACE 9
Viale Principe di Scalea
% +39 091 450 001
www.mondellopalacehotel.it
The Mondello Palace hotel is located in
the vibrant seaside resort of Mondello.
The hotels staff are extremely attentive
to guests and the hotel has a spacious
and modern ambience to it that makes
it an ideal location for relaxing and
enjoying the seafront views.

CENTRALE PALACE 10
Corso Vittorio Emanuele, 327
% +39 091 8539
www.centralepalacehotel.com
Perfectly positioned literally just a few
steps from the Quatro Canti, and fice
minutes away from the Cathedral, this
hotel maintains a balance between
extravagance and simplicity. Just as
the name implies, the Centrale Palace
offers guests a luxurious stay right in the
heart of the citys historic centre. Eating
breakfast on the rooftop terrace while the
city awakes is a must.

January 2015 ITALIA! 33

IT122.48hrsPalermo.sg4.indd 33

25/11/2014 15:45PM

D I S C O V E R I TA L I A !

4
9

WHERE TO EAT

OSTERIA DEI VESPRI 11


Piazza Croce dei Vespri, 6
+39 617 1631
www.osteriadeivespri.it
Situated below the Palazzo Gangi, the
Osteria dei Vespri is famous for its high
standards in Sicilian gastronomy. The
creative approach to local dishes make for
an exquisite culinary experience. The staffs
service is impeccable and the Osterias
interior is both rustic and intimate. Well
worth a visit.

Price range

KURSAAL KALHESA 12
Foro Italico Umberto I, 21
+39 091 616 2282
www.kursaalkalhesa.it
For an unforgettable evening in Palermos
old Arab quarter a visit to this restaurant is
highly recommended. Part restaurant, part
winebar, part jazz club, Kursaal Kalhesa is
a novel experience and the fusion food is
truly exotic. No trip to Palermo is complete
without an evening dining in La Kalsa.

Price range

AL COVO DE I BEATI PAOLI 14


Piazza Marina, 50
+39 091 616 6634
www.alcovodeibeatipaoli.com
Benefitting from the natural ambience of
Piazza Marina, this restaurant has an old
world quality that makes it a very pleasant
dining experience. The restaurant is a
popular choice for locals and tourists. The
food is delicious and portions are hearty,
an ideal way to spend an evening.

Price range

SANTANDREA 15
Piazza SantAndrea, 4
+39 091 334 999
www.ristorantesantandrea.eu
Famous for its delicious pasta dishes, this
quaint and charming trattoria offers diners
a chance to sample fresh local produce that
has been attentively prepared and served
with a sense of local pride. The service is
friendly and the location is near to the
lively Vucciria market.

Price range

12
14 6

15
10

AL FONDACO DEL CONTE 13


Piazza Conte Federico, 24
+39 091 652 2312
www.alfondacodelconte.it
Located near to Palermos Ballaro market
in an ancient building that used to offer
respite to the citys cart drivers, there
now lies a vibrant contemporary styled
restaurant. Seafood is a speciality in this
restaurant where flavours are masterfully
combined to create a truly memorable
dining experience.

Price range

2
11

13
Map data 2014 Google

DONT MISS
LA PIAZZA
MARINA
A curious spot,
the piazza is
surrounded with
palazzi boasting
Norman
and Arabic
architecture,
and within
the centre lies
the outlandish
Giardino
Garibaldi, full
of exotic banyan
trees with their
enormous vines
and splaying
roots.

bikes, spurred on by cheering families


tucking into their freshly-caught
frutti di mare. As the wine flowed, the
rapturous applause for the childrens
daredevil antics was replaced with a
group of local elderly men playing
cards and singing boisterously in the
thick Sicilian dialect. Everyone was
enjoying themselves. There are no
pretences in Palermo, no unnecessary
embellishments in the culture or
people. Palermitans are friendly, fiery
and eminently hospitable to those who
show an appreciation and interest in
their culture.
Should you feel inclined to take
the plunge and get chatting to some
locals over dinner, before you know
it youll be raucously joining in with
folk songs, the words of which are
incomprehensible to anyone whos
familiar with the purity of Dantes
Italian (perhaps even more so when
attempted by a stray and overenthusiastic Englishman). I finished
the evening off with pistachio gelato
in a brioche, a very Sicilian way
of enjoying ice cream. I truly had
indulged myself and was full to the
point of lethargy, yet the food was so
sensational I still craved more.

The next morning I wandered


around the citys famous Piazza
Marina. The Piazza was once the
site of public executions, although
nowadays its very much a place of fun,
with Palermitan children scampering
around the trees and swinging on
the vines. After Id had my fill of
exploring the intriguing city streets
and piazzas I caught a taxi into the
mountains of nearby Monreale. This
small town gives the visitor the
opportunity to take in Palermos
breathtaking panoramic views of the
Conca dOro and offers a tranquil
and open space to clear the mind.
First stop was the incredible ArabNorman cathedral. I marvelled at the
glittering gold interior and solemn
religious artwork within. The garden
cloisters were a haven of tranquillity
and contemplation the perfect
counterbalance to any sense of overstimulation from the city beneath.
Later that evening I strolled
along Palermos seafront as the sun
descended and turned the sky into a
blaze of orange. I sat and chatted with
a local family as they cast their fishing
lines into the sea. I felt absolutely
satisfied with my Sicilian city-break.

34 ITALIA! January 2015

IT122.48hrsPalermo.sg4.indd 34

25/11/2014 15:40PM

Poolside at the Villa Igiea

Passticeria
Amato

The lively marketplace


of Vucciria

It had been a feast of sights, sounds


and tastes, none of which can be
experienced in quite the same way
anywhere else in Italy. Visiting
Palermo is an intense experience that
packs a powerful cultural punch;
though once the beauty of the city is
embraced it draws you in, becoming
part of you. As I have found, a visit
to this mysterious city will be the
beginning of a love affair that, like the
delights of la cucina siciliana, will fill
you up to the brim, but always leave
you wanting more.

The view from the Mondello


Palace Hotel

GETTING THERE
BY PLANE
The options for flights to Sicily have
increased dramatically in recent years,
but for Palermo itself you have but three
choices: fly with Ryanair from Dublin or
Stansted, or with easyJet from Gatwick.
BY FERRY
Palermos port is not as important as it
used to be, but you can still get there
from the mainland, Sardinia and Tunis.
KEY TO RESTAURANT PRICES
(full meal per person, not including wine)
Up to 25


26-50



More than 50

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IT122.Adp38.sg1.indd 38

26/11/2014 17:14PM

D I S C O V E R I TA L I A !

TEN BEST SKI RESORTS


Giant ski areas, spectacular scenery and a laid-back culture on the slopes Italy offers some of
Europes very best skiing. Plus, its less expensive and less crowded than rival Alpine nations.
Deep in the white stuff, Fleur Kinson names Italia!s chosen ten of the best resorts

Alagna

Alps, Piedmont: 25 miles southwest of Milan


(as the crow flies)
Adult skipass: One day c.35 per day, six days c.200
Offers: 19 lifts
Best for: Experts
Transfer time: 2hrs from Milan Malpensa
WITH A CULT FOLLOWING AMONG SERIOUS SKIERS,
Little Alagna is a picturesque village centred on an old stone
church ringed by meandering streets. Traditional Swiss-style
wooden farmhouses add piquant local colour, although the
majority of buildings here are modern. A whole clutch of
mountains spiral round the horizon, giving the place a majestic,
away-from-the-rest-of-the-world feel.

with picturesque villages, brilliant slopes and stupendous


natural scenery. The two biggest of these are the northeasts
Dolomiti Superski area, with its 1,220km of top-quality
piste, and the northwests wonderful Alpine Milky Way
a galaxy of superb resorts together offering a still impressive
400km of slopes.
Italy certainly has the world-class pistes and stylish
resorts youre looking for, but it also has that laid-back,
convivial charm that this country does so well. The
atmosphere in Italian ski resorts is a bit friendlier and more
relaxed than in France or Switzerland. Impressive athletes
they may be, but Italian skiers dont take themselves too
seriously, and are chiefly concerned with having communal
fun. Theres a lot of fine eating, drinking and snowy
sunbathing, and a lot of smiling faces.
If all this isnt enough to convince you to take your next
ski holiday in Italy, there are two more pluses to note. Its
cheaper to ski in Italy than in its neighbour nations, and
the crowds are thinner so theres more space for you on the
slopes. All things considered, shouldnt Italy be at the very
top of the list for your next ski trip?

Alagna itself has only 15km of piste, but the tremendous


scope the place offers for off-piste exploring makes it a major lure
for powderhounds. Long, glorious snowfields thrill and challenge
expert skiers, and heli-skiing is available. Alagna also boasts
the most vertical skiing slope in Italy, making for imaginably
thrilling descents. But mere intermediates need not stay away
from this impressively athletic resort. In addition to its own
pistes, Alagna links skiers to some excellent fellow resorts in the
Monterosa ski area, namely Gressoney and Champoluc both of
which are especially good for intermediates. The Monterosa Ski
lift pass gives you access to all resorts, with a total 73km of piste.
Note that Alagnas aprs-ski scene is very limited. People
come here because theyre dedicated to skiing rather than to
partying or designer shopping. Many aim for an early night and a
clear head in the morning, because they cant wait to get out into
that spectacular open terrain as early as possible each day.

Photography iStock unless stated otherwise

eirdly, Italy isnt usually one of the


first countries people think of when
asked to name the best places to
ski. France! they cry, Austria!
Switzerland! and then maybe
concede Italy somewhere much further down the list. But
Italy has so much going for it as a ski destination that its
tempting to say youd be mad to go anywhere else.
First of all, theres the sheer range of options available.
Mountains occupy a whopping three quarters of Italys
national landscape, and there are ski resorts to be found in
every region of the country except for Puglia. (Yes, you can
even ski down a volcano in Sicily.) The premier resorts lie in
the north, of course, where the high, celestial Alps stretch
for hundreds of miles across the top of the nation and meet
with the beautiful, sculptural peaks of the Dolomites,
where you can also ski. And down the full length of
Italys boot-shaped peninsula, the lower but still skiable
Apennines unfurl for six hundred miles.
The north boasts some truly gigantic ski areas
interconnected networks of perfectly-equipped resorts

January 2015 ITALIA! 39

IT122.TenBestSkiResorts.sg4.indd 39

25/11/2014 14:14PM

D I S C O V E R I TA L I A !

Courmayeur

Photograph Shutterstock

Alps, Valle dAosta: 60 miles northwest of Turin


(as the crow flies)
Adult skipass: One day c.46, six days c.234
Offers: 18 lifts, slopes to suit all levels
Best for: Intermediates
Transfer time: 1hr20 from Geneva, 1hr40 from Turin
ONE OF THE VERY BEST ALL-ROUND SKI
RESORTS in Italy, pretty Courmayeur sits in the lee of
Europes tallest mountain, Mont Blanc. The views, the
slopes and the nightlife all ensure a dedicated clientele.
The core of the town is a traditional Alpine village, all
cobbled streets and cosy chalets, now sporting plenty of
slick designer boutiques and stylish cocktail bars. Both
down in town and up on the mountain, stupendously
good eateries are the norm. Chic Milanese and Torinese
roll into Courmayeur in their finery every weekend to
ski a little but relax a lot they are generally keener
to party than hit the piste, which means the slopes are
surprisingly uncrowded.
Courmayeur is very good for beginners and
intermediates. Seriously advanced skiers, meanwhile,
will relish the resorts many off-piste opportunities
which include the Valle Blanche, the worlds longest
and arguably most scenic off-piste run. You can also ski
over the border into France to see what Chamonix has
to offer. Snowboarders are great fans of Courmayeur, and
their numbers here further enhance the liveliness of the
aprs-ski scene. Cross-country skiers also like the place
relishing its 35km of beautiful trails.
With accommodation ranging from cute B&Bs to
simple chalet apartments to super-luxurious hotels,
Courmayeur is not solely the preserve of the well-heeled.
Theres a good mix of people here, brought together by a
love of skiing and of simply having a great time eating,
drinking and/or dancing halfway up a mountain on a
winters night.

IT122.TenBestSkiResorts.sg4.indd 40

25/11/2014 14:08PM

Mountains occupy a whopping three quarters of Italys national landscape, and there
are ski resorts to be found in every region of the country except for Puglia

La Villa

Dolomites, Trentino-Alto Adige: 80 miles north of Venice


(as the crow flies)
Adult skipass: One day c.40, six days c.210
Offers: 11 lifts; slopes to suit all levels
Best for: Beginners and children
Transfer time: 1hr10 from Bologna, 2hr10 from Venice
TRENTINO-ALTO ADIGE IS A CHARMINGLY JUMBLED
CORNER OF THE WORLD. Dark wooden Hansel-and-Gretel
chalets and Gothic lettering make you think youre in Bavaria or
Austria, while sleekly-dressed Italians doing the evening passeggiata
remind you youre in Italy. The language? Well, it can be anything
from German to Italian to Ladin an obscure tongue spoken only
in these parts. Picturesque La Villa (La Ila in Ladin, Stern in
German) is especially recommended for beginners and for skiers who

are also gourmets. This is for the simple reason that there are 18
Michelin-starred restaurants hereabouts, in an area the size of north
Devon. Some cater to the little mountain huts or rifugi, and charge
very little.
Ringed by spectacular scenery, La Villas abundant wide, gentle
slopes allow newbies and youngsters to safely learn the art of
skiing. There are pistes for intermediates too, plus a terrain park for
snowboarders and 10km of cross-country ski trails. Expert skiers
might already be familiar with La Villa as the place you arrive at
the end of the hair-raising ride down the monstrously difficult Gran
Riso slope.
As a high-altitude resort, snow cover is very reliable. La Villa has
19 slopes with a total length of 25km, but its part of the Alta Badia
ski area with 130km of slopes and also of the Dolomiti Superski area
with more than 1,100km. Ski passes for either or both areas will
give you access to a huge amount of terrain.
January 2015 ITALIA! 41

IT122.TenBestSkiResorts.sg4.indd 41

25/11/2014 14:09PM

D I S C O V E R I TA L I A !

Cortina dAmpezzo

Dolomites, the Veneto: 80 miles north of Venice


(as the crow flies)
Adult skipass: One day c.46, six days c.235
Offers: 34 lifts; slopes to suit all levels
Best for: Intermediates and experts
Transfer time: 1hr50 from Bolzano, Treviso or Venice
PERCHED ON A HIGH PLATEAU ringed by the elegant
needle-like peaks of the Dolomites, this ancient mountain town
full of chalets, fin-de-sicle mansions and soaring belltowers
is physically beautiful in every way. Little surprise, then, that
it attracts the beautiful people the rich, the famous, the
sophisticated as well as the ber-athletic nor that the resort
has become a film star in its own right. Some memorable James
Bond stunt sequences in For Your Eyes Only were filmed here, as
were several scenes in Sylvester Stallones Cliffhanger. Cortinas

charms are seemingly endless. Not just its beauty, lifestyle and
atmosphere, but its individuality. Locals speak the obscure
language Ladin amongst themselves, and cars are forbidden
from the heart of the village.
The delicious ambience and sheer leisure-paradise feel
of Cortina risks distracting visitors (and reviewers) from the
stupendous quality of the skiing on offer here. There are
115km of marked slopes, some tricky black runs, and countless
off-piste opportunities in good snow conditions. Beginners
are well-catered-for, too, with some great ski schools. Cortina
is also connected by a free bus to the Sella Ronda circuit (all
covered on the Dolomiti Superski pass). Extreme skiing and
the wonderful Slow Ski experience are options in Cortina. You
can also try out ice polo, curling, snow-kiting Of course, if
your preferred sports are Michelin-star dining and shopping
for antiques and designer goods, Cortina will also suit you
perfectly. This might not be the most inexpensive ski resort in
Italy, but its surely one of the most seductive.

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Cervinia

Alps, Valle dAosta: 60 miles north of Turin


(as the crow flies)
Adult skipass: one day c.40, six days c.210
Offers: 24 lifts; slopes to suit all levels
Best for: Beginners and intermediates
Transfer time: 1hr35 from Turin
CERVINIA IS THE ITALIAN NAME FOR THE
MATTERHORN, and this high-altitude resort sits on the
opposite side of the iconic mountain from better-known
Zermatt in Switzerland. As a purpose-built ski town, Cervinia
is marred by dull modern architecture, but it makes up for
this with some fabulous long runs and very reliable natural
snow-cover. In Cervinia you get to ski the same area as people

in Zermatt, and eat in restaurants that are just as good, if not


better, but all for significantly less expense.
The easy gradients of some of Cervinias exceptionally long
runs allow beginners and intermediates to build up enormous
confidence. More advanced skiers, meanwhile, have plenty of
challenging terrain in the area to explore. The 8km Ventina red
run, for example, is recommended for its steep, nearly 2,000m
descent in altitude and the wonderful views it affords on the
way of super-high Alpine peaks. Or you might opt to pursue
the whopping 22km run from Klein Matterhorn in Switzerland
down to Valtournenche in Italy.
Cervinia itself has 160km of piste covered on the local
lift pass, but explorers further afield can pay extra for the
international lift pass (take your passport!) and bump up their
options to a total of 360km of piste. Skiing in and out of Italy
and Switzerland always holds a particular charm.

Madonna di Campiglio

Brenta Dolomites, Trentino: 55 miles north of Verona


(as the crow flies)
Adult skipass: one day c.44, six days c.210
Offers: 24 lifts; slopes to suit all levels
Best for: Intermediates
Transfer time: 2hr10 from Verona, 2hr15 from Brescia
THIS CHIC AND LOVELY RESORT in the dramatic Brenta Dolomites
has certainly racked up many bests and one-of-the-bests. Some skiers deem
it the best in Italy. Others specify it offers some of the best intermediate
skiing, has the best piste grooming, has one of the best lift systems, the best
snowboarding facilities Clearly this is a resort worth anyones attention.
The town itself is delightful, with dark wooden chalets and a soaring
slender church spire. The visitors it attracts are interesting to look at too
well-heeled, fashion-conscious types who parade round town in gorgeous
coats, sip pretty cocktails in Madonnas sophisticated bars, and later let their
hair down in some of its excellent clubs.
The resorts wonderful ski area extends over 150km, with integrated
lifts linking to the Folgarida and Marivella areas. Intermediates will relish
the long cruising trails which take you in and out of wooded areas and give
a real sense of journeying. Beginners will find a good, sizeable ski school in
Madonna, while expert skiers can request off-piste guiding or try the Canal
Miramonti run down Monte Spinale and the famous 3Tre run. Snowboarders
will feel very welcome in Madonna, which was one of the first winter resorts
to see a future in the sport and invest in facilities. Note that Madonna di
Campiglio is part of the Skirama Dolomiti Adamello-Brenta ski area, and
that the right ski pass will give you access to a handful of nearby resorts
offering a total 380km of downhill skiing served by 150 ski lifts.
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D I S C O V E R I TA L I A !

Sestriere

Alps, Piedmont: 40 miles west of Turin (as the crow flies)


Adult skipass: one day c.30, six days c.185
Offers: 66 lifts; slopes to suit all levels
Best for: Intermediates
Transfer time: 1hr30 from Turin
PERCHED AMIDST BEAUTIFUL ALPINE PEAKS on a plateau at an
altitude of 2,035 metres, Sestriere is the main resort in the delicious Milky
Way (Via Lattea) skiing area linking Sauze dOulx, Pragelato, Claviere,
Cesana Torinese, San Sicario and Montgenvre. So you can explore far and wide,
skiing to different villages and making use of 146 skiable pistes with a total of
400km in trails. Sestriere is particularly well-suited to intermediate skiers and
snowboarders. But there are some significant runs for advanced skiers, and a
quarter of all slopes are suitable for beginners or children.
Since it first came into being in the 1930s as one of the worlds first purposebuilt ski resorts, Sestriere has hosted various Olympic events and other worldclass skiing and boarding competitions. The 2006 Turin Winter Olympics
were the most recent. So you can expect a high-quality infrastructure here. In
particular, Sestrieres artificial snow-making operations are excellent, and this
combined with the resorts high altitude make for more or less guaranteed snow
cover. Sestriere also keeps a floodlit run for night skiing.

Madesimo

Alps, Lombardy: 70 miles north of Milan (as the crow flies)


Adult skipass: One day c.35, six days c.200
Offers: 18 lifts, slopes to suit all levels
Best for: Intermediates
Transfer time: 2hr10 from Milan Linate
THIS CHARMING OLD VILLAGE and its slopes 20 miles
north of Lake Como are greatly loved by Italian families but
remain relatively unknown to British skiers. Friendly and
inexpensive, Madesimo is well worth getting to know. With
32 pistes covering 55km, its ski area might not be extensive,
but theres a great deal of variety in the terrain. The runs suit
intermediate-level skiers well, and there is also some challenging
fare for experts including one of the greatest European runs,

the ungroomed Catalone itinerary, which whooshes down 1,000


vertical metres. Snowboarders are fans of Madesimo, and for them
theres a terrain park and four half pipes. Cross-country skiers,
meanwhile, lap up the 10km of trails here.
A high-altitude resort set above 1,500m and with pistes
above 2,500m, Madesimo enjoys assured snow cover throughout
the ski season. In the rare case of a dry spell, more than half the
pistes have snowmaking facilities. Theres an impressive range
of restaurants and bars, with prices a fraction of those in betterknown ski resorts. Especially well-regarded is the Dogana Vegia
restaurant on the edge of town, set in a 17th-century former
Customs House with a roaring fireplace and a collection of
antique curios. Madesimo fills up at the weekend with visitors
from Milan and Bergamo, but come in the week and youll find
it blissfully uncrowded.

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Once an old rustic mountain town, Sauze dOulx became an aristocratic retreat in the 19th
century and has evolved since then into an extremely popular ski destination

Sauze dOulx

Alps, Piedmont: 40 miles west of Turin (as the crow flies)


Adult skipass: one day c.36, six days c.160
Offers: 22 lifts; slopes to suit all levels
Best for: Intermediates
Transfer time: 1hr20 from Turin
SAUZE DOULX IS THE SLIGHTLY PRETTIER, slightly more
populous neighbour of Sestriere. Once an old rustic mountain
town, it became an aristocratic retreat in the 19th century and
has evolved since then into an extremely popular ski destination.
Dubbed Ibiza-on-snow in the 1980s, Sauze still knows how to
put on a party, but today it attracts a wide range of ages and you
can enjoy as much or as little aprs-ski hijinks here as you like.
Its a family-friendly place drawing an international clientele and
English is very widely spoken.

Sauze is part of the wonderful Milky Way network of ski


resorts, giving you access to 400km of pistes served by 92 lifts.
There are some great off-piste opportunities in Sauze, and guides
available to help you make the most of them. Expert skiers will
also want to explore the nearby black runs of the Milky Way.
Intermediates, meanwhile, will thoroughly enjoy Sauzes treelined slopes, and beginners are well-served by its very good ski
and snowboard schools. As elsewhere in the Milky Way, Sauze has
excellent snow-making facilities if needed.
Sauze dOulxs wacky-looking name, by the way, is variously
pronounced Sowz-e-dolks, Sowz-e-dooz or Sowz-e-doo.
The name could hardly be more fascinating if youre interested in
etymology. The Sauze bit comes from the word for rocky place in
a long-lost pre-Indo-European language, while Oulx derives from
the name of a god or ancient clan-leader in the Franco-Provenal,
or Arpitan, dialect still spoken in these valleys. Exotic stuff!

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D I S C O V E R I TA L I A !

Selva Gardena

Dolomites, Trentino-Alto Adige: 80 miles north of Venice


(as the crow flies)
Adult skipass: One day c.45, six days c.235
Offers: 81 lifts; slopes to suit all levels
Best for: Intermediates and cross-country
Transfer time: 2hr15 from Verona, 2hr40 from Brescia
SELVA IS AN OLD TYROLEAN VILLAGE spectacularly
set at the head of the Val Gardena under the solid rock walls
of Sassolungo and the Gruppo del Sella. It has a good mix of
slopes for all levels some wooded and others open. Although
the village is marred somewhat by being strung along a main
road, Selva Gardena is an appealingly low-key, good-value
resort, and a key spot for skiers pursuing the wonderful Sella

Ronda circuit. Its also part of the extensive Dolomiti Superski


group of resorts. This area was for many years part of Austria,
and German is still more widely spoken than Italian in Selva
Gardena (or Wolkenstein as Teutons term the village.) The local
language Ladin also survives, leading to some exotic signage in
three tongues. The altitude here is not terribly high, despite the
glorious scenery that usually means youre way, way up, but Selva
has superb snow-making facilities which mean snow cover is not
a problem. And the grooming of pistes is excellent.
Intermediate skiers will relish Selvas wide opportunities for
fast cruising on easy slopes. Beginners will benefit from a good
local ski school, but theyll have to take a short bus to reach the
long, gentle runs. Experts will find some good slopes, but not
much in the way of off-piste because of the nature of the terrain
here. Cross-country skiers, meanwhile, will be delighted by the
115km of scenic trails accessible from Selva.

STAYING AND SKIING


All of the resorts featured offer a
range of excellent hotels and chalet
options to cater for a wide range of
budgets. If youre looking for self
accommodation whilst visiting your
chosen ski resort then check out whats
available at www.lakecomohomes.com
(click on the Ski Italy button).

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PA S T I TA L I A !

48 ITALIA! January 2015

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27/11/2014 10:27AM

EMMA, LADY HAMILTON


Born the daughter of a Lancashire blacksmith, she rose thanks to her
incomparable beauty, sharp wit and fine intelligence to become one
of the most celebrated ladies in all of Europe

Detail from Lady Hamilton as a Bacchante by George Romney (17341802)

wo hundred years ago this month the world lost Emma, Lady Hamilton,
second wife of Lord William Hamilton, British Envoy Extraordinary to
the Kingdom of the Two Sicilies. Emma died in Calais on 15 January
1815, quite destitute (and drunk) but earlier in life she had known great
celebrity and the romantic attentions of gentlemen across Europe, not
least Lord Horatio Nelson. Emma met Nelson when he arrived in Naples, battered
and bruised, after victory at the Battle of the Nile, and nursed him back to health.
While her husband remained consumed in his studies of antiquity and vulcanology,
Emma and Horatio fell in love. Emma had known many men, but Horatio was the
only one she had ever loved for who he was, not what he was. After Naples, all three
actually lived together for a while in England, but neither man provided Emma with
a decent pension and, as age took hold, the woman who had found international fame
as the muse of the great portrait artist George Romney lost her charm, and with it her
capacity to make money. She died as she had been born: poor.

January 2015 ITALIA! 49

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On sale now in WH Smiths


and all good newsagents

50 ITALIA! September 2014

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27/11/2014 09:34AM

Photograph courtesy Province of Pesaro and Urbino Municipality of Urbino

D I S C O V E R I TA L I A !

CAMELOT
IN LE MARCHE
The busy university town of Urbino is often called the perfect
Renaissance city and indeed the birthplace of Raphael rivalled
Florence and Siena in its day. Joe Gartman returns to find out if they
have got any of their loaned out paintings back yet

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D I S C O V E R I TA L I A !

WHAT TO SEE AND DO


PALAZZO DUCALE & GALLERIA
NAZIONALE DELLE MARCHE
Entrance on Piazza Duca Federico
% +39 0722 322625
www.palazzoducaleurbino.it
Hours: Mon, 8:30am-2:00pm; Tue-Sun,
8:30am-7:30pm
CASA NATALE DI RAFFAELLO
Via Raffaello, 57
% +39 0722 320105
www.accademiaraffaello.it
Hours: Sun, 10:00am-1:00pm, Mon-Sat,
9:00am-1:00pm and 3:00pm-7:00pm
ORATORIO SAN GIOVANNI
Via Barocci, 31
% +39 0722 910259
Hours: Sun, 10:00am-1:00pm, Mon-Sat,
10:00am-1:00pm and 3:00pm-6:00pm
PUNTO PANORAMICO
in Parco della Resistenza
Magical views over the city and palace.
Sunset turns the town golden. Great place
to picnic with the locals, in the shadow of
the Albornoz Fortress.
PIAZZALE ROMA PARK AND
MONUMENT TO RAPHAEL
At the top of Via Raffaello, this small
park offers you views over the city and
surrounding countryside, a huge statue of
Raphael, and pathways lined with busts of
famous Urbino residents.
MUSEO DIOCESANO ALBANI
Piazza Pascoli, 1
% +39 0722 2213
www.arcidiocesiurbino.it
Honouring Pope Clement XI Albani,
the collection contains treasures of
the Archdiocese of Urbino, including
illuminated manuscripts, a lectern from
Duke Federicos library, and late Gothic art,
including a wooden polychrome Madonna
della Misericordia. Hours: Sat & Sun,
9:30am-1:30pm and 2:30pm-6:00pm
MAUSOLEO DEI DUCHI
in the Chiesa di San Bernardino
% +39 0722 2568
The tombs of Duke Federico and his son
Guidobaldo, as well as that of Elizabetta
Gonzaga, are in this Renaissance church,
a mile or so east of Urbino. Hours: Daily,
8:00am-6:00pm
ORATORIO SAN GIUSEPPE
Via Barocci
% +39 347 6711181
On the same street as the Oratorio San
Giovanni, this small Baroque church is
worth visiting for its famous life-size plaster
presepe, or Nativity. Hours: Sun, 10:00am1:00pm, Mon-Sat, 10:00am-1:00pm and
3:00pm-6:00pm

Images, main,
then inset top
to bottom: With
a pale sun, the
hills beyond,
and perhaps a
hint of mist, the
view over Urbino
from the Punto
Panoramico
brings to mind
the idea of some
Italian Camelot
and this is not
so far from the
truth; locals take
a passeggiata
around the
Piazza della
Repubblica at
dusk; view from
the arcade of the
Cortile at the
Palazzo Ducale;
a detail of the
Ideal City as
Luciano Laurana
dreamed of it

tanding at the Punto


Panoramico, near the walls
of the forbidding Albornoz
fortress overlooking
Urbino, it is difficult to
avoid a certain gentle melancholy.
Its Sunday, the last morning of our
weekend in the city of Federico da
Montefeltro. Below us, houses of
rose-tinged brick line the narrow
streets, and the city seems to
embrace the beautiful palace. Its a
scene that speaks of past glories, like
a story from an old volume in the
Dukes famous library. Urbinos past
might seem to be a romance, or a
legend like Arthurs fabled Camelot;
for, once upon a time long ago, in
Urbino as in Camelot, the ideals
of gentility, honour, and nobility
flourished. But in Urbino, it wasnt
an imagined, poetic idyll. The story
was true.
Urbinos hills rise from the
Adriatic coast and the city is

perched in serene isolation among


them. The nearest rail station is
in Pesaro, a coastal town 20 miles
away. Urbino is often called the
perfect Renaissance city, but its
not an empty set within its stone
walls. Its a lively town that hosts
a busy university. It has several
serious claims to fame, beginning
with Duke Federico himself, the
great general-for-hire who ruled
wisely and peaceably over his own
small domain. Theres Raphael, too,
the local kid who made good, and
Giovanni Santi, court painter and
Raphaels dad. Piero della Francesca
worked for Federico at one time,
and so did Pedro Berruguete, a
Spanish painter of genius who made
a brilliant portrait of the Duke and
his son, Guidobaldo. The National
Gallery of the Marches, housed in the
Ducal Palace, contains paintings by
these worthies as well as by Titian,
Paolo Uccello, and Melozzo da Forli.

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2014

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Photograph courtesy Prov


ince of Pesaro
and Urbino Municipality
of Urbino

della Repubblica, blithely ignoring


the fact that we would have to
trudge back up in the evening. The
entrance to the palace is opposite the
Duomo, just a couple of blocks past
the piazza.
The rooms in the palace are
mostly bare of decoration, but
their vaulting is elegant and their
fireplaces very grand. It is a perfect
setting for the world-class collection
of art. My favourite piece may be the
mysterious Flagellation by Piero della
Francesca. Its startling because far
in the background, Christ is being
flogged; but dominating the picture
in the foreground are three exotically
dressed men ignoring the scene and
having a casual conversation. I sure
wish I could talk to Piero or the
Duke and find out who they are!
Another striking painting,
possibly by Piero, is an exquisitely
detailed view of an impossibly
perfect Renaissance city perfect

perspective, perfectly proportioned


buildings, a piazza in the foreground
perfectly spotless, no litter, no
animals, no pigeons, no dirt and
no people. Its called La Citt Ideale
The Ideal City. If there was ever a
painting of silence, this is it. There
is no consensus about who painted
it. I asked the guard if he thought
it was Pieros work. Its a painting
of architecture, no? he said.
Beautiful, like the palace. Piero was
a genius, a great painter, but Laurana
was a painter, too, and architect.
Laurana painted it sicuramente!
Im inclined to agree with him; he
seemed a man of discrimination
after all, he complimented my
Italian! (At least I think he did.)
I wanted to see Pieros Madonna
di Senigallia, but it had been loaned
for exhibition elsewhere again.
This Madonna is a peripatetic
lady; she was on loan the last time
I was here, too, and thats not

Photography Pat Gartman unless stated

Federicos Ducal Palace is a work


of art in itself. It is widely held to be
the best and most beautiful of Italian
Renaissance palaces, and I certainly
cant argue the point. The cortile is
an elegant demonstration of ideal
Renaissance proportions. Graceful
arcades surround the courtyard, and
there is an undeniably comfortable
feeling of harmonious, human
scale. It was designed by Luciano
Laurana, from Dalmatia, across the
Adriatic. Luciano was responsible
for much of the palace, but left town
mysteriously after 12 years and was
replaced by other architects, whose
identities are hotly argued among
scholars. Donato Bramante may have
been one.
The palace, and its art collection,
deserves at least a whole afternoons
attention. So, on Friday, after
checking into our B&B at the top
of steep Via Raffaello, we tripped
lightly down the hill toward Piazza

November
January 2015
2014 ITALIA! 53

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of Pesaro
rtesy Province
Urbino
Photograph cou
Municipality of

o
bin
Ur
d
an
Photograph cou
rtesy Province
of Pesaro
and Urbino
Municipality of
Urbino

Photograph cou
rtesy Province
of Pesaro
and Urbino
Municipality of
Urbino

D I S C O V E R I TA L I A !

the first time shes been missing.


In the 1970s she was stolen as part
of a large art heist, but luckily was
recovered in Switzerland.
Raphaels Portrait of a Young
Woman La Muta, had also been
loaned last time, and this time she
was away for restoration. I wish I
could have seen her in person. In the
photos Ive seen, she seems to have
her mouth set rather firmly, as if she
had nothing more to say and dared
anybody to ask. La Muta, indeed.
Ah well I hope to return to Urbino
again, and third times the charm!
Wandering around the palace,
(and sometimes you can wander
around quite a lot without
meeting anyone), youll eventually
come to a cozy room lined with
wooden cupboard doors. Youll
be surprised, at first, that some
of the doors are ajar, exposing the
cupboard contents: jumbled books,
candlesticks, hourglasses, musical

instruments and much more. But


all the objects have the rich, golden
hue of fine varnished wood, and you
soon realize the cupboard doors,
miracles of illusionistic intarsia
woodwork, are closed. The skilled
artisans who created them are not
known by name. Some scholars have
suggested that Botticelli may have
had a hand in the design. Above the
cabinets are portraits of great men,
including Dante, Homer, Solomon
and Petrarch. This room was Duke
Federicos studiolo, and it is the most
famous of such places in Italy. Just
a few steps away from the studiolo
is the balcony from which the Duke
could survey his domain.
Down a small set of stairs, the
Duke could visit his two small
private chapels, one Christian (the
Cappella del Perdono) and one
pagan (the Tempietto delle Muse).
An inscription says, approximately,
These small chapels are united with

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Photograph courtesy Province of Pesaro and Urbino Municipality of Urbino

Images, main,
then inset top to
bottom: Another
perspective on
the Cortile at
the Palazzo
Ducale; Raphaels
Portrait of a
Young Woman,
aka La Muta,
the Silent One
(c.1507-08);
miracles of
illusionistic
intarsia
woodwork in the
Dukes studiolo;
entrance to
the birthplace
of Raphael;
the statue of
Raphael as a
child in his
childhood home;
salumi of the
region, and
beyond, on sale
at the market

only a little difference: one is sacred


to the Muses, and one to God.
The Dukes interest in the Muses,
even having a chapel dedicated to
them, is an indication of his interest
in classical Greek and Roman
thought, an interest he shared with
other humanists of the Renaissance.
His court became an important
center of artistic and intellectual
activity, second only to Florence in
fame. It is ironic that the greatest
testament to the glory of Urbinos
court, Baldassare Castigliones Book
of the Courtier, dealt with events after
Federicos death.
Published in 1528, the book
describes conversations that took
place in the palace while Federicos
son Guidobaldo was Duke. Ladies
and gentlemen of the court discussed
ethics, friendship, love, honour,
and the duties people owe to each
other. Guidobaldo was an invalid,
so his Duchess, Elizabetta Gonzaga,
presided over the gatherings.
Castigliones work was hugely
influential in its time, and cemented
Urbinos reputation as a centre of
civilized grace and culture.
Having stood on the Dukes
balcony well, actually, a balcony
one floor below his, but whos
counting? we began the trudge
back up Via Raffaello. A number of
young people were climbing the hill,
too, probably students heading for
the Accademia di Belle Arti. I felt
a rather perverse pleasure hearing
them gasping a bit, as I was, but
they passed me anyway.
We paused for breath and
noticed, at number 57, that the brick
faade sported an impressive marble
portal around tall, double wooden
doors. Wed found the childhood
home of Raffaello Sanzio, the great
High Renaissance painter known
to English speakers as Raphael. We
decided we had just enough time to
visit; besides, it gave us a perfectly
good excuse for a breather.
Inside, the house is a handsome
example of a 15th century urban
home. Raphaels family evidently
lived comfortably there are arched
doorways, large fireplaces, and lovely,
mullioned windows. Raphaels father,
Giovanni Santi, was court painter
to Duke Federico, who appears to
have treated him well. (Giovanni

was dismissed by Vasari as a pittore


non molto eccellente not a very good
painter. Vasari didnt know it at the
time, but this would become his own
future reputation.)
Unfortunately, there are no works
by Raphael in the house, barring
a Madonna that may have been
an early work. There are copies of
some of his paintings, including the
portrait of La Fornarina, Raphaels
purported mistress. A surprising
object is an odd statue of Raphael,
aged about 12, with long hair and
wearing a dress. He looks exactly like
a young girl.
At any rate, Raphael was not
only a roaring success after he left
Urbino, but was reputed to be a
very amiable fellow whose early
death grieved everyone who knew
him, except, possibly, a few artistic
rivals. Maybe it was his small-town
background that accounted for his
likeability. Or perhaps the virtues of
the Montefeltro court existed even
before Castiglione, and influenced
the young son of the Court Painter.
On Saturday morning we found
a lively market just outside our
windows, with stalls beneath the
trees lining Viale Buozzi. Flowers,
clothes, shoes, fruit and vegetables,
meat and fish, cheese it was a
colourful array that extended nearly
a half-mile along a ridge, with
sweeping views over the countryside.
I enjoyed the stroll, but avoided the
fishmongers too many beady eyes
staring reproachfully from beneath
the glass.
After coffee and a cornetto semplice,
we were ready to visit the Oratorio
di San Giovanni, a small church
built in 1365. It is nestled at the
end of a small street, a humble little
structure in the Gothic style. It has
served as a hospice for the sick, and
as the home of the Brotherhood of
San Giovanni Battisti since 1395.
On its walls are famous frescoes by
Lorenzo and Jacopo Salimbeni, two
brothers who were important lateGothic artists. Imagine our dismay
when we found the church filled
with scaffolding. Dismay became
delight when we were invited to
climb up and get a close look at the
colourful scenes of the life of St John
(a rare opportunity). We watched
the restorers at work; I must say

WHERE TO STAY AND EAT


ALBERGO ITALIA
Corso Giuseppe Garibaldi, 32
+39 0722 2701
www.albergo-italia-urbino.it
Conveniently central location on the
arcaded Corso Garibaldi with the Duomo
and the Ducal Palace on one side and the
Albornoz Fortress on the other. Modern,
comfortable rooms. The excellent buffet
breakfast will set you up nicely for a days
sightseeing and museum visiting. Double
rooms from 80 to 120.
B&B ALBORNOZ
Via dei Maceri, 23
+39 347 298 7897
www.bbalbornoz.com
At the top of Via Rafaello, near Fortezza
Albornoz, Punto Panoramico, and Piazzale
Roma Park. Very much in the B&B tradition
with just three roomy doubles on three
floors, each with its own small kitchenette,
not to mention glorious views over the city
and surrounding countryside. Warm, helpful
and friendly hosts. Rooms from 70 to 80.
CAFFE DELLACCADEMIA
Via Piano del Monte, 2
+39 0722 4285
Next to the School of Fine Arts and Piazzale
Roma Park. Popular with students and
locals, with a friendly, cheerful staff. A
great place to stop for for breakfast cornetti
and coffee, and to return to for a light
lunch. Inexpensive.
BAR DA MARIELLA
Via Nazario Sauro, 2
+39 07 224422
Just off Via Vittorio Veneto, right in the
centre of Urbino, this small sandwich shop
has a large selection of fresh panini and
tramezzini, plus salads, coffee, beer, wine,
and everything you could hope for. Funky,
kitsch atmosphere and a personable owner.
Also inexpensive.
ATABULUS LIBRERIA & ENOTECA
Piazza Rinascimento, 7
39 0722 2685
A bookstore, wine bar, and restaurant all
rolled into one. Hosted by friendly staff
who are serious about wine and food, and
who contribute to a slightly alternative
lifestyle atmosphere. Moderate prices.
RAFAELLO DEGUSTERIA
Via Bramante 6/8/10
+39 0722 329546
www.raffaellodegusteria.it
A fine selection of wines, meats and
cheeses. The perfect place to go to if you
want to create a picnic menu for the Punto
Panoramico. It also has pasta, sauces,
honeys, oils and other foodstuffs from Le
Marche region.

November
January 2015
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D I S C O V E R I TA L I A !

Images, main,
then inset top
to bottom: The
Oratorio di San
Giovanni is
currently under
restoration; a
flower stall at
the Saturday
market, which
extends for
nearly half a
mile and sells
anything you
might need;
Raphaels statue
in the Piazzale
Roma park;
restorers tools
at the Oratorio
the syringes
are for injecting
material into
the gaps created
between the
fresco and the
wall

it seemed almost surgical a young


man tap-tap-tapping the plaster,
and then injecting material into the
hollow between the wall and the
fresco with a giant syringe.
In the evening we strolled in the
park at the top of Via Raffaello, with
a monumental statue of the artist at
its centre, and busts of other famous
Urbino residents. Giovanni Santi,
Donato Bramante, and Piero della
Francesca are all there, of course. The
park has great views, and a strange
characteristic: as you climb Via
Raffaello toward it, the statue seems
to rise up from the crest of the hill, as
if Raphael is emerging from the earth.
We watched the sun set as
Raphael quietly surveyed his
hometown, where long ago people
dreamed of La Citt Ideale. And
next morning we stood at the
Punto Panoramico to say goodbye.
I thought of Castiglione and his
famous book, which is tinged with

sadness. By 1527 Rome had been


sacked and the political map of Italy
changed day-to-day as easily as an
etch-a-sketch.
Castiglione knew that the
cultured ease of Urbino was doomed.
Many of the people he wrote about
were dead before the book was
published. He remarked, as if saying
farewell: Nor do I believe that the
sweetness that is had from a beloved
company was ever savoured in any
other place, as it once was there.
The grace of the Renaissance
still inhabits Urbino: the beauty and
harmony of the palace, and the art
within; the perfect hilltop setting of
the city; the views from the Dukes
balcony over green, rolling hills; the
University, still a seat of learning
after 500 years. The city remains
a symbol of all that was noble and
harmonious long ago, when a few
Italian towns awoke from their long
Medieval slumber.

GETTING THERE
BY PLANE
The nearest airports are Ancona and
Rimini. Bologna has more flights, and is
about 2 hours away by car.
BY TRAIN
The nearest rail station is Pesaro. Buses
depart for Urbino frequently from a
terminal area a few steps from the
station (turn right as you exit). Express
buses (Rapido) take 45 minutes; the
regular service 55 minutes. Bus tickets
from the station bar. A return ticket
costs less and saves time in Urbino.

INFORMATION
One tourist information office is in
the Borgo Mercatale, outside the Porta
Valbona gate, next to the elevator that
takes you from the main bus parking
area to the upper city. Another is
across from Piazza Duca Federico, at
Via Puccinotti 35. Ask about the Urbino
Tourist Card, which includes reduced
admission to eight major sites.

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FA S T C U LT U R E

WHEN GINO COPPED WAS COMMISSIONED to design a residential


complex in the Parioli section of Rome, he knew he needed a unifying
fountain. Since the time of Marcus Agrippa, who established hundreds of
fountains in the city, no self-respecting neighbourhood could be without
one. So, in Piazza Mincio, the heart of Coppeds complex, he created the
Fontana delle Rane, the fountain of the frogs. Piazza Mincio is actually
just a traffic roundabout, with the fountain at its centre. It takes some
quickness and daring to dodge the shiny sedans in the circle this is a posh
neighbourhood, housing several embassies, so the vehicle bearing down
on you may be driven by someone with diplomatic immunity. But with luck you can get close
enough to admire the whimsical little frogs lining the rim of the upper basin, and the larger
frogs in the Baroque shells of the lower. You might think the fountain is from the era of Bernini,
but the whole complex was created between 1919 and 1927.
Coppeds commission gave him considerable freedom, and he exploited it with gusto. He
created palazzi and villas in a bewildering (and rather bewitching) multitude of styles, about

Something for everyone

40 structures in all, around the area of Via Tagliamento and Via Dora. He loved ornamentation,
and applied it exuberantly. Under a grand entrance arch, decorated with a huge, forbidding
mascherone (sculpted face), and a frieze of garlands and Greek masks,
hangs an enormous art-deco wrought-iron chandelier. On either side of
The Palazzo degli
the arch are towers of the Palazzo degli Ambasciatori, a large apartment
Ambasciatori
block. The faades are encrusted with mannerist nudes, Romanesque
and Renaissance loggias, Baroque balcony corbels, and medieval
grotesques all in travertine or marble.
Even more striking is the Villino delle Fate, the House of the Fairies,
which is framed by the arch as you look past the fountain. I cant begin
to tell you the derivation of its form, but it really doesnt matter. There
are loggias, brick arches, half-arches, columns with capitals of every
classical order and more. There are tiles, statues,
a relief of the Capitoline wolf, art-nouveau
The Frog Fountain
wrought-iron balconies, a working sundial, and
and the House of the
Fairies
walls painted with images of Venetian galleys,
Florentine cityscapes, Dante and Boccaccio.
Across Piazza Mincio is the Palazzina del
Ragno, the Palace of the Spider, surprisingly
harmonious in design, although constructed of
brick, wood, stucco, marble, and stone. There
is a stern marble mask of a king over the main
entrance, as well as a menacing golden spider
waiting within its web to greet you.
A walk through the neighbourhood, now
known as Quartiere Copped, can entertain and
delight for hours, but Coppeds imaginative
vision was not well appreciated by contemporary
architects in Italy. The Fascist dream of reviving
the glory of Imperial Rome required an austere
magnificence, and a lighthearted composite salute
to Italys architectural heritage was not useful.
Even today, serious books on the architecture
ABOUT THE WRITER
of Rome seldom mention Coppeds Quarter.
JOE GARTMAN is a freelance writer based in Utah. A passionate amateur
So beware if you visit and enjoy it, you are
of art and history, and an avid traveller, he spends much time in Italy.
indulging in a guilty pleasure!

Photography Pat Gartman

Serious books on the architecture of Rome seldom mention Coppeds


Quarter. If you enjoy it, you are indulging in a guilty pleasure!

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Photograph iStock

Photograph iStock

Photograph iStock

D I S C O V E R I TA L I A !

Clockwise from
top left: A
glimpse of the
coast is never far
away; the city at
sunset; looking
out to sea across
the palm treestudded skyline of
Cagliari; the Torre
dellElefante;
the Church of
Saints George and
Catherine; the
alleyways of the
old town; tourists
using Segways to
see the town; lush
vegetation grows
where it can
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And suddenly there is Cagliari, wrote DH Lawrence. A naked


town rising steep, steep, golden-looking, piled naked to the
sky. Adrian Mourby explores this ancient Sardinian city

ou have to choose your angle these days to see the Sardinian


capital as Lawrence did in 1921, but the Aragonese fortress
(known as Castello) still towers over the city. And its still
a steep slog up the three flights ofsteps that link Marina
down below to the castle quarter and Piazzetta David Herbert
Lawrence. The plateau was created by the Savoyard kings at the end of the
19th century and renamed in Lawrences honour. It has fantastic views out to
sea and rather a lot of graffiti these days.
It is strange and rather wonderful, Lawrence noted. The city piles up
lofty and almost miniature, and makes me think of Jerusalem: without trees,
without cover, rising rather bare and proud One wonders how it ever got
there. And it seems like Spain or Malta: not Italy. It is a steep and lonely
city, as in some old illumination.
The capital of Sardinia currently vying to be European Capital of
Culture in 2019 is a curious place, the result of its equally curious history.
A rock above what was once little more than a navigable swamp, it was
hugely fortified by its various owners the Pisans, Genoese, Aragonese, and
Savoyards while the native Sardinians huddled down below in the port
(now called Marina) and outside the walls (the districts of Stampace and
Villanova). Mediaeval Cagliari was defended by massive open-backed towers
like you see in Valencia and Genoa, and crowned by a cathedral thats

Photograph iStock

Cagliari
Photograph iStock

Photography Adrian Mourby unless stated

Photograph iStock

48 HOURS IN

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D I S C O V E R I TA L I A !

WHAT TO SEE AND DO


IL DUOMO DI CAGLIARI LA CATTEDRALE
DI SANTA MARIA E SANTA CECILIA 1
Piazza Palazzo, 4
% +39 070 663837
www.duomodicagliari.it
Cagliaris cathedral was originally built in
the 13th century by the Pisans, who ruled
the city at that time. It has undergone
significant changes over the centuries. The
church that stands here today is a curious
melange of a building, withRomanesque
towers dating from the 13th century, a
17th century dome, and a Neo-Romanesque
faade that was created in the 1930s after
the old faade was demolished.

LA TORRE DELLELEFANTE 2
Piazza San Giuseppe
Cagliaris second tallest Medieval tower
(the tallest is that of San Pancrazio) was
also built by the Pisans, in 1307 as part
of the citys fortifications against Moorish
and Genoese attacks. During the Aragonese
rule it was used as a prison. Later partially
obscured by other buildings, it was restored
in 1906.

LA TORRE DI SAN PANCRAZIO 3


Piazza Indipendenza
Cagliaris tallest Medieval tower predates
the Tower of the Elephant by two years.
Commissioned by Giovanni Capula it too
was constructed to be an integral part of
the citys maritime defensive system. Made
from white limestone, it is open on the
side that faces the Piazza.
LA CHIESA DEI SANTI GIORGIO E
CATERINA 4
Via Gemelli, 2
% +39 070 492636
info@santigiorgioecaterina.it
www.santigiorgioecaterina.it
This Neo-Gothic church is one of the most
important buildings of the reconstruction
of Cagliari after the Allied bombardment
of 13 May 1943. Built on the site of a
previous church, it was finally consecrated
(after considerable political to-ing and
fro-ing) in 1967.

LA CITADELLA DEI MUSEI 5


Piazza Arsenale
% +39 070 675 7627
The Citadel of Museums houses five
exhibitions, including the incredible Museo
delle Cere Anatomiche Clemente Susini (see
Dont Miss, following page).

IL PALAZZO CIVICO 6
Via Roma, 145
% +39 070 6771
As it is a working government office it is
only open in the mornings (9am-12pm)
and not at weekends, but its well worth
visiting just to see the exterior.

The Palazzo Civico

DONT MISS
THE SANCTUARY
OF THE MARTYRS
Down below
the altar of the
Cathedral of Saints
Mary and Cecilia,
in the crypt, is
the Sanctuary
to Cagliaris 179
martyrs, early
Christians whose
remains were
removed from the
Basilica of San
Saturnino in the
17th century.

Pisan-Romanesque outside and


Baroque within. Inside, it displays
the old font from Pisa Cathedral cut
in two and placed either side of the
main door like a pair of matching
balconies. As Lawrence said, strange
and wonderful.
I arrived here by car at the end
of a north-south drive through
Sardinia. Ahead of me Cagliari rose
on the horizon like two fortified
medieval peaks. One was Castello
and the other the hilltop Sanctuary

whose rule Italy was united in 1870


actually hid out in Cagliari during
the Napoleonic Wars. For 16 years
the Vice Regal Palace up in Castello
was the only place they felt safe.
Following the road ever
downwardsI managed to locateVia
Roma, which follows the line of
Cagliaris 19th-century quayside.I
drove in past Palazzo Civico, a
Liberty-style turreted fortress in
white limestone that has to be
the most idiosyncratic building

I drove in past Palazzo Civico, a Libertystyle turreted fortress in white limestone


of San Bonaria. A few ill-advised
blocks of 20th-century flats marred
the citys profile, but mostly it
looked just as Lawrence described, a
steep and lonely city tucked into a
bay that faces across the sea to Tunis.
Closer to the city centre I
found that the old fortified city
was surrounded by Liberty-style
apartments from the first years of
a united Italy. Its ironic to think
that the House of Savoy, under

in Cagliari, and found somewhere


to park (not a cheap option in
Cagliari). My hotel had been
recommended by a friend for its
position overlooking the harbour.
I was welcomed by Luigi, the
patron, who told me how this
gargantuan seafront apartment
block had once received the greatest
singers of Italian opera. He showed
me photos of his grandchildren and
poured us both a glass of his familys

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WHERE TO STAY

The Antico Caff,


haunt of poets

A&R BUNDES JACK VITTORIA 7


Via Roma, 75
+39 070 667970
www.hotelbjvittoria.it
Recommended to me by friends who had
stayed here before, and I am happy to
pass on that recommendation to you.
The entrance to Hotel A&R Bundes Jack
Vittoria is inside one of the long, lofty
arcades that run along Via Roma, sheltering
shoppers from the sun. A single illuminated
sign leads inside to a tiny grilled lift that
you would not expect to lead to such
characterful old rooms with a perfect
aspect overlooking the harbour.

DONT MISS

HOTEL SARDEGNA CAGLIARI 8


Via Lunigiana, 50
% +39 070 286245
info@sardegnahotelcagliari.it
www.sardegnahotelcagliari.it
Stylish coach party hotel on the route in
from the airport. Set up to be all-inclusive,
its La Scala restaurant offers a mix of
traditional Sardinian recipes and classic
international cuisine, while there are also
facilities for business meetings, weddings
and conventions. You will need transport if
you are to make the most of your visit, and
the hotel can arrange for sightseeing tours
and the rental of bicycles, scooters, cars,
inflatables and boats.

Close set buildings keep


the streets cool

Down by the sea

15-year-old Vernaccia Reserve. Then


I was shown to my room, one of
those tall,narrow Italian chambers
whose curtains and shutters squeeze
shut out all light. Yet once Id
dropped my bags on the bed, and
nearly broken the shutters to get
them open, the view was superb:the
sea and, across the harbour, the
setting sun. This was going to be an
interesting city to explore.
The next morning I got lost
in the back streets behind my
hotel, but did so deliberately. Just
wandering the Marina district was
fun.At Trattoria Lillicu in narrow
Via Sardegna, I met T-shirted
waiters setting out tables for
lunch.I was offered a glass of water
it was already very hot but our
conversation was stilted. Very little
English is heard in Cagliari and the
Italian that is spoken is not easy on
the ears.
Next door to Lillicu was
Enoteca, a great shop for good-value
Sardinian wines with shelf-loads of
rums and whiskies. I bought two
bottles of Malvasia, produced just
outside Cagliari, and lugged them
around with me for the rest of the

morning. It was a terrible mistake,


I realised, as soon as I started the
climb to Castello.
Heading up flight after flight of
steps, I stopped off for an ice cream
at Caff Antico, which opened its
doors in 1855 as Caff Genovese
on Piazza Costituzione.Antico
Caff sits just below the St Remy
Bastione, an impressive double
staircase under a massive arch that
leads between the upper and lower
parts of the city. The House of Savoy
constructed this monument after
the Unification of Italy when it was
thought the fortifications around
Castello could afford to be less
fearsome.After admiring the view
and all the waresthat North African
salesmen had spread out across
Piazetta David Herbert Lawrence, I
walked up to the Cathedral.
The mosaics on the white
limestone exteriorand the vivid
contrasting marble within create a
powerful impression. A side chapel
to the right of the altar contains
a photograph of Maria Cristina,
youngest daughter of King Victor
Emmanuel I of Sardinia. Maria
Cristina (1812-1836) was the

LA SELLA DEL
DIAVOLO
The Devils
Saddle is a
strangelyshaped cliff
that overhangs
Marina Piccola at
Poetto. It is, in a
sense, Cagliaris
symbol. There
are geological
explanations
for it existence
but the old
story goes
that the Devil
lost his saddle
while fighting
the Archangel
Michael for
domination of
the city. You
will be pleased
to hear he was
ultimately
unsuccessful.

T HOTEL CAGLIARI 9
Via dei Giudicati, 66
+39 070 47400
www.thotel.it
Its position, right in front of the Music
Plaza and the Cagliari Lyric Theatre, helps
to make the T Hotel the only design hotel
in town where locals go for cocktails. For
those staying the night, the hotel has no
fewer than 207 rooms, plus the T Bar,
T Bistro, T Restaurant, and even the T Spa
Wellness Centre and its Fitness Room. The
hotel also caters for business meetings.

ALBERGO AURORA 10
Salita Santa Chiara, 19
+39 070 658625
www.hotelcagliariaurora.it
Bohemian family B&B that has been
running for 50 years now in a beautiful
historic building at the foot of Castello.
A very convenient location not just for
sightseeing but also for shopping, with
the Via Manno, Largo Carlo Felice and Via
Roma all within easy walking distance.
The hotel is also very well served by buses
if by chance your eagerness to take full
advantage of the shopping facilities means
that the short walking distance home does
not seem quite as easy as it did when you
were setting out that morning

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D I S C O V E R I TA L I A !
8

WHERE TO EAT

DAL CORSARO 11
Viale Regina Margherita, 28
+39 070 664318
Four generations of the Deidda family
have offered gourmet dining in this
stately townhouse perfectly located in
the centre of town but tucked away from
the main tourist thoroughfares. It serves
traditional Sardinian cuisine with a modern
twist. Everything about it is stylish and
absolutely correct, but without being at all
pretentious or zealously trendy.

Price range

13

TRATTORIA LILLICU 12
Via Sardegna, 78
+39 070 652970
A small and simple place in the historical
quarter of Marina that offers typical
seafood dishes in a friendly atmosphere. If
the weather is suitable and it usually is
do take advantage of a seat at the tables
that line the narrow street outside.

Price range

3
14
10 1
2
15
6
12
7 11

IL RIFUGIO DEI SAPORI 13


Corso Vittorio Emanuele, 445
+39 070 756 1995
A gastro takeaway with strong vegan and
vegetarian leanings though, unlike you
might find in northern Europe, not to the
total exclusion of meat and fish. Its latest
menu: cavolfiore soffocato con olive;
patate in verde; bietola in salsa citronette;
cicoria al vapore; dadolata di verdure;
melanzane in umido; cavolo cappuccio con
capperi; cous cous vegetariano; passato di
verdure; riso thai, zucchine, cavolo rosso e
mandorle; riso thai integrale bio, peperoni,
cavolfiore, zenzero; lasagne alla bolognese;
lasagne pomodoro e basilico; lasagne fiori
di zucca, zucchini, provola; polpette di
manzo al pomodoro; roast beef (!); pollo
arrosto; cotolette.

Price range

THE OLD COFFEE 14


Via Alberto Lamarmora, 91
Handy little snack bar in a side street off
the historic centre of Castello where food
is brought to your small marble table.
The interior is home to lots of interesting
antique gadgetry. This is also a haunt of
the local LGBT community.

Price range

CAFF ANTICO 15
Piazza Costituzione, 10/11
DH Lawrence, Gabriele DAnnunzio and the
Sardinian writer Grazia Deledda (the first
Italian woman to win the Nobel prize for
literature) all sat at this caf, which has
now been restored to its original Liberty
style of polished wood, marble and brass.

Price range

Map data 2014 Google

DONT MISS
CLEMENTE
SUSINIS
WAXWORKS
These are
of corpses
dissected
in 1801 by
Francesco
Boi, professor
of anatomy
at Cagliari
University.
The scarily
convincing
cadavers were
intended
as teaching
tools, but they
have a certain
beauty about
them and in
1805 King Carlo
Felice bought
them to display
to his guests.

shy Princess Diana of her day. Her


unhappy marriage to the King of
Naples ended abruptly when she
died in childbirth, and in 2014 she
was beatified by the Pope.
Wandering further up the
narrow streets of Castello, I passed
lots of quiet little shops and eating
places: The Cravates Man sells
ties outside his house at 27 Via
Nicolo Canelles for 5 each. The
Old Coffee is a snack bar whose
shelves are lined with old musical
instruments, cameras and tape
recorders, and theres a wonderful
antique shop on Via Alberto
Lamarmora full of dusty old dolls
and antique prints.
The highest point on Castello is
the royal arsenal, built in the 1820s
by King Carlo Felice of Savoy, uncle
of Maria Cristina. Today its known
as the Citadel of Museums for its
five exhibitions, which include the
extraordinary Museo delle Cere
Anatomiche Clemente Susini.
From the Citadel I began my
descent past the Torre DellElefante,
which is one of three massive
towers remaining from the 14thcentury fortifications built when

Pisa controlled Cagliari. Its 31


metres high and built on three
sides in white local limestone. The
inner fourth side is open, as was
the practice with all of Cagliaris
medieval defensive towers. For 3
you can climb five flights of steps
to get another great view across the
harbour and out to sea.
Passing through the gate
warily because of its very fiercelooking portcullis I headed back
down the steep streets to the marina
and the cool calm of my small,
dark room above the arcades on Via
Roma. It was time for a siesta, as
is common practice in sun-baked
Cagliari. And after all that walking,
I too needed the rest if only to
prepare myself for the evening. I
had promised myself dinner at Dal
Corsaro, possibly the best restaurant
in the city, whose chef, Stefano
Deidda, is also something of a poet.
Of Cagliari he wrote on the menu
Here the wind shapes the faces
and the sun warms the hearts of
those who live in a seaside town at a
crossroads of trade.
Cagliari does seem to bring out
the poet in people.

62 ITALIA! January 2015

IT122.48hrsCagliari.sg4.indd 62

25/11/2014 16:31PM

Photograph iStock

All roads lead to the sea

Inside the Cathedral

Faade of the Cathedral

GETTING THERE

St Remy Bastione

BY PLANE
The options for flights to Cagliari
are quite limited and the islands
alternatives Alghero and Olbia are
far too far north to be considered,
unless you do want to see the whole
island. Meridiana flies from Gatwick,
and easyJet flies from Stansted. But the
good news is that a new BA service from
Gatwick is set to begin in April 2015.

INFORMATION
Meridiana (% 0871 222 9319, www.
meridiana.it) offers direct flights from
London Gatwick to Cagliari, outward on
Saturdays and returning on Thursdays,
from 178.45.
Just Sardinia (% 01202 484858,
www.justsardinia.co.uk) offers three
nights at the Sardegna Hotel from 359
per person. The price includes B&B,
flights and airport transfers.
Rhino (% 0845 508 9845, www.
rhinocarhire.com) offers car hire from
Cagliari and Olbia airports from just 12
per day.
KEY TO RESTAURANT PRICES
(full meal per person, not including wine)
Up to 25


26-50



More than 50

January 2015 ITALIA! 63

IT122.48hrsCagliari.sg4.indd 63

25/11/2014 16:31PM

Photograph iStock

P R O P E RT Y F O C U S

KEVIN GIBNEY

LE MARCHE
PROPERTY FOCUS
Set in the perfect Mediterranean location between
the mountains and the sea, Le Marche is the new
Tuscany but without the high prices

100,000-250,000

CASA RUSTICA

The ideal simple, rustic house in the Marche countryside with big views,
and lots of country quiet. The perfect place to relax, unwind and get
back in touch with a simpler way of living. Over 150 years old, 125sqm,
rustically restored, 4 bedrooms, an unrestored annex, a lovely courtyard,
amazing views, and just 5 minutes from town. Its the
country house thats simply a pleasure to know and its
also easy to afford.
Price 169,000 Contact +39 347 538 6668
info@propertyforsalemarche.com
www.propertyforsalemarche.com

MANAGING DIRECTOR OF THE PROPERTY SEARCH AND


RESTORATION COMPANY MARCHE HOMES DIRECT
Its time we stopped talking about Le Marche as
the up-and-coming place to buy property in
Italy. Its the place for many people of broadly
diverse nationalities. Le Marche delivers that which
the heart desires and the head requires. If you
love All Things Italian, its all here in Le Marche,
in a still genuine, unexploited, untouristed way.
Situated between north and south, beaches and
mountains, its an extraordinary place. Property
values are reasonable and rational. Three of its
provinces rank in the Top 20 for Quality of Life (Macerata is No. 8!), its
No. 2 amongst Italian regions for the Environment and No. 3 for Quality
Healthcare What a great place to invest! Come to Le Marche and
experience it all for yourself.

250,000-500,000

CASA PIACEVOLE

A carefully restored 4-5 bedroom house of approx 220sqm near Mogliano


with views of the countryside and Sibillini Mountains. A classic Marchigiana
farmhouse wth 2-storey main house and attached 1-storey annex. The old
brick used in the restoration speaks to a time when every town had its
own kiln. These add character to Casa Piacevole, as do
the beams, old stairs, pianella tiles and lit wall niches
throughout. The house is private and ideal for year-round
use, rentals and family holidays. Price 355,000 Contact
+39 347 538 6668 info@propertyforsalemarche
.com www.propertyforsalemarche.com

64 ITALIA! January 2015

IT122.PropFocus.sg4.indd 64

26/11/2014 15:35PM

50,000-100,000

CASA TRE ARCHI

Fractional Ownership in the beautiful medieval town of Petritoli from


just 65,000! Appassionata announce the launch of their new property,
a 3-bedroom, 3-bathroom townhouse built into the ancient turrets which
form the entrance to the town. Offering spacious indoor living and stunning
outdoor space, including a 50sqm roof terrace with distant sea views and
views of the surrounding hilltop towns and countryside. Petritoli is a lively
town, with bars, restaurants and shops all within walking distance. Only a
20-minute drive to the nearest blue flag beach, 45 minutes to the Sibillini
mountains and national park, this property is ideally located. First 3 shares
sold, only one share remaining at 65,000. Price 65,000 Contact +39
331 541 3225 ifh@appassionata.com www.appassionata.com

250,000-500,000

FARMHOUSE

A beautifully restored 3-storey stone and brick-built farmhouse in a


lovely, tranquil location and with glorious 180 degree views over the
surrounding rolling hills and stunning Sibillini mountains. This charming
house retains many of the original features including beautiful chestnut
beamed ceilings, timber lintels over the windows and doors, cotto
tiled floors and interesting alcoves. Set within half an acre of land,
this 3-bedroom, 3-bathroom house and its garden face directly south,
ensuring sunshine all day long. It is a property that represents quite
extraordinary value for money at this price. House code 536.
Price 325,000 Contact +39 331 381 9509
info@magicmarche.com www.magicmarche.com

100,000-250,000

ST ANDREA DI SUASA

A well loved 16th-century house perfectly located in a small walled


castello set amid beautiful countryside with both the mountains and the
Adriatic Sea easily accessible. The house is set on 3 storeys and has a
curved, tiled staircase connecting all parts of the property. The house
comprises: a kitchen/dining room, bathroom with shower, store room;
a sitting-room with book alcove; 2 double bedrooms, one with partly
exposed 16th-century painting, the other with a separate toilet/sink.
This unique property has central heating, is fully furnished and is ready
to go, making a perfect Italian retreat throughout the year.
Price 195,000 Contact 01223 306958
elizabeth.pimm@btinternet.com

500,000-750,000

ECO HOUSE

Originally constructed in the 1800s, this farmhouse has been completely


rebuilt to a very high standard, and then completely re-designed
internally to provide spacious modern accommodation in keeping
with 21st-century values of low energy consumption and eco-living.
The house specification includes underfloor heating, a breathing wall
system, solar panels, a well, a chemical-free pool and a pizza oven.
This 5-bedroom eco-property also includes 2 self-contained apartments
for rental income. There are 60 olive trees, as well as fruit trees and a
DOC vineyard all included. This is the house that has it all. House code
344. Price 650,000 Contact +39 331 381 9509
info@magicmarche.com www.magicmarche.com

January 2015 ITALIA! 65

IT122.PropFocus.sg4.indd 65

26/11/2014 15:29PM

P R O P E RT Y F O C U S

500,000-750,000

CASA MATTA

Built nearly 250 years ago, this is a grand house but also a warm and
welcoming one. The thick stonewalls provide coolness in summer and
warmth in winter. The house has 4 original fireplaces, 5 bedrooms, 5
bathrooms, and even a reading room. Practical appointments include a fullsized kitchen and dining area.On a clear day, you can catch a glimpse of
the Adriatic Sea. Casa Matta affords you views of rolling, verdant hills, and,
in summer, bright fields of sunflowers and grain.It has a sizeable swimming
pool with a view of the mountains, a welcome summer respite. There is also
an outdoor portico with archways and large dining table to accommodate
your entire party. Price 750,000 Contact % +39 339 101 9042
info@marchepropertynet.com www.marchepropertynet.com

500,000-750,000

VILLA ANTONIETTA

Habitable old brick villa in quiet, convenient position, on flat land, with
views of fields and hills, 8km from the centre of Macerata. On three
floors (100+100sqm) plus various outbuildings for a total of 900sqm. Two
independent houses, garages, wine cellar, very large old barn (suitable for
conversion). Ground floor: storerooms and garages. First floor: kitchens,
dining rooms, bathrooms, bedrooms. Second floor: bedrooms. Electricity,
good well water and LPG gas all connected. In good condition internally
on the first and second floors. The roof was recently renewed and
insulated. Ground floor to be converted. Would be ideal for conversion to
restaurant, B&B, co-housing or community. Price 590,000 Contact
% +39 0734 711856 ian@picenehomes.com www.picenehomes.com

100,000-250,000

FONTANA MARINA

Fontana Marina Residence is a residential complex in the hills of Le


Marche a short distance from the beaches and not far from Campofilone.
The complex is still under development with a few units finished and
lived in. The aim is to give clientschoice: detached or semi-detached,
withor without pool, basement garage, reserved parking, garden, etc.
The apartments are built according to modern ideas on energy output and
comfort. All have a view on the Adriatic Sea. Price indication: For 135,000,
you can buy an apartment with 53sqm of floor space and 45sqm of terrace,
and for 150,000 you can also get a basement garage of 42sqm.
Price 135,000 Contact % +39 339 101 9042
info@marchepropertynet.com www.marchepropertynet.com

500,000-750,000

CASA DANIELLA

A carefully and lovingly restored old brick villa with a beautiful garden
in a tranquil and convenient location, and with superb views of the
surrounding hill land. The house comes complete with a separate
small guest house to provide a property that has a floor space of
approximately 500sqm all together. The main house has 3 kitchens, 2
living rooms, 5 bedrooms, and 4 bathrooms. Outside there is approx
1,500sqm of garden with 2 wells, a vineyard, and fruit and olive trees.
The property also perfectly positioned, just 40km from the mountains
and 20km from the sea.
Price 750,000 Contact % +39 0734 711856
ian@picenehomes.com www.picenehomes.com

66 ITALIA! January 2015

IT122.PropFocus.sg4.indd 66

26/11/2014 15:29PM

FOR SALE

Recently renovated property, currently


operating as a successful B&B
Comprises 3 separate
apartments, all with own
entrance.
Renovated to a very high
standard with a beautiful
terrace and veranda looking
towards the hilltop town of
Cingoli; Balcone delle Marche
Grounds of 1 hectare with
swimming pool currently
being installed.
An excellent opportunity to
purchase a beautiful country
house with an established
business.

le marche explorer
marche property net
exclusive holiday homes, villas and appartments with
swimming pool; sales, restorations & rentals

700,000 ONO

Please contact us regarding this and other idyllic


Marche properties, both restored and for renovation
Telephone: 0039 0733 604286 / 0039 331 7183870
Email: cingoliimmobiliare@gmail.com
Website: www.cingoliimmobiliare.agenzie.casa.it
Facebook: cingoli immobiliare
Cingoli Immobiliare, Corso Garibaldi 60/b , 62011 Cingoli (MC)

rentals & restorations

www.le-marche-explorer.com

sales & investments

www.marchepropertynet.com

0039 333 9791785


0039 339 1019042

Property For Sale Marche


Marche Properties... Buy, Restore & More

Y All Property Types, All Budget Ranges


- Habitable / Partially Restored
- Fully Restored / Finished

- Ruins to Custom Restore


- Apartments / Townhouses

Y Detailed & Accurate Property


Descriptions
Y Registered, Licensed
Real Estate Agent
Y Prompt, Professional Service
www.propertyforsalemarche.com

IT122.Adp67.sg1.indd 67

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26/11/2014 17:43PM

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24/11/2014 11:14

S P E A K I TA L I A !

GAZZETTA

ITALIA!

If you are in a position to be able to retire, Italy is perhaps the most


attractive country on Earth, says Sebastian Cresswell-Turner. But if you
still have to earn a living, the situation is not nearly so rosy

In pensione in Italia Retirement in Italy


In un articolo recente e di spicco nella rivista di destra
The Spectator, lo scrittore Nicholas Farrell afferm che
lItalia stia in una fase di declino terminale. La rovina
irreversibile dellItalia gi una cosa decisa, scrisse
Farrell. Il Bel Paese un caso perduto a tal punto che
non vale la pena nemmeno pensarci.
Infatti, il ritratto da lui dipinto alquanto triste.
La disoccupazione tra i giovani sta al 43%, il livello
pi alto da quando si fanno queste statistiche. Il debito
pubblico rappresenta un allucinante 135% del PIL, il
livello pi alto al mondo dopo il Giappone e la Grecia.
E quel che rimane del settore privato e produttivo
viene schiacciato da regolamenti che ogni anno
diventano sempre pi oppressivi, cos come le tasse
per pagare quel che Farrell chiama il mondo dorato
dellimpiegato statale italiano. Insomma, lItalia
luomo moribondo dellEuropa.
A questo punto mi permetto di vantarmi del fatto
che oltre dieci anni fa scrissi io un articolo molto simile
nel Daily Telegraph che desse il via ad una tempesta
mediatica e anche ad una lettera di protesta dalla parte
dellambasciatore italiano a Londra.
Purtroppo, quel che scrissi era vero. E se le
prospettive per lItalia erano cattive nel 2003, oggi
sono ancora peggiori. Come fa presente Farrell, i dati
macroeconomici sono troppo spaventosi da contemplare.
E poi, durante la mia ultima visita a Roma, vidi, come
per la prima volta, qualcosa alla quale mi abituai quando
ci abitavo, ma che alla fine non vedevo pi. Mi riferisco
al fatto che lintera citt coperta da graffiti. Per me,
questo un fenomeno proprio indicativo.
Comunque, se per milioni di italiani la vita sta
diventando sempre pi difficile, e se lintero sistema
va verso un collasso inevitabile, c un gruppo per il
quale la vita in Italia rimane dolce come prima. Mi
riferisco a quelli che hanno risparmi ed un reddito
sicuro magari una pensione. Tutto dipende da se
devi guadagnare uno stipendio dignitoso. Nel caso di
s, lItalia quasi impossibile. Ma senno, sempre tra
i migliori paesi della Terra. Un patrimonio culturale
imbattibile; paesaggi di una bellezza senza pari; un
popolo simpatico e civile; forse la migliore cucina al
mondo la lista non finisce mai.
Insomma, per chi sta in pensione, lItalia
sempre uno dei paesi pi attraenti del mondo; una
considerazione forse non senza interesse per i distinti
lettori della presente rivista

In a recent and highly prominent article in The Spectator


magazine, Nicholas Farrell claimed that Italy is in terminal
decline. Italys irreversible demise is a foregone conclusion,
he wrote. The country is just too much of a basket case even
to think about.
The picture he painted is bleak indeed. Youth
unemployment now stands at 43%, the highest ever
recorded. National debt is a terrifying 135% of GDP, the
third highest level in the world after Japan and Greece. And
what is left of the wealth-producing private sector is crushed
by regulation that becomes more oppressive every year, as
does the burden of taxes to pay for what Farrell describes
as the gold-plated world of the Italian state employee. In
short, Italy is the dying man of Europe.
At this stage I will perm myself a small boast. I wrote
something very similar over ten years ago in The Daily
Telegraph, and the piece stirred up a media storm which
included a letter of protest from the Italian ambassador in
London.
Unfortunately, what I wrote was true. Furthermore, if
the outlook for Italy was dire back in 2003, it is still worse
now. As Farrell points out, the macro-economic facts are just
too awful to contemplate. The last time I returned to Rome,
I also noticed something that I got used to when I lived there
and in the end stopped seeing. Namely, that the whole city is
covered in graffiti. That for me says it all.
However, if life is becoming increasingly difficult for
countless Italians, and if the whole system faces inevitable
collapse, there is one group of people for whom life in Italy
is as sweet as ever. I am thinking of those with a little money
of their own and a secure income a pension, perhaps. It
all depends on whether you have to earn a living. If you do,
Italy is almost impossible. But if you dont, then it is still
one of the most civilised places on earth. Unbeatable cultural
heritage; landscapes of unrivalled beauty; charming and
friendly people; perhaps the best food in the world. The list
goes on and on.
Italy, in other words, remains one of the most attractive
places in the world to retire to. A thought that might not be
without interest to the readers of Italia! magazine

THE AUTHOR

SEBASTIAN CRESSWELL-TURNER is a freelance


writer, translator and fluent Italian speaker who
lived in Rome for many years. His travel articles
have appeared in The Guardian, The Telegraph,
The Times and The Mail, and many more.

January 2015 ITALIA! 69

IT122.Gazzetta.sg4.indd 69

25/11/2014 11:57AM

I TA L I A ! P R O M O T I O N

A Tuscan Haven
A weekend away at the Castello di Casole offers you
luxurious relaxation at the Essere Spa as well as fine Tuscan
food and, if you like, a spot of truffle hunting

70 ITALIA! January 2015

IT122.AdGetSpa.sg4.indd 70

27/11/2014 13:42PM

TUSCAN SECRETS

ts winter, the leaves have


fallen from the trees, the
weather is still getting
colder and wetter, and its
already dark by the time
I leave work in the evening. I
need to spoil myself. So where
should I go to get away from
it all for a few days? If Im
looking for the perfect location
for relaxation, then Castello di
Casole is the answer! And, of
course, its always important to
test ones own products, so this
counts as work for me at least
thats my story!
An easy flight into Pisa and
a hired car from Avis, and this
time I made sure I brought my
own satnav. It can be expensive
to hire one and, as important
as directions are, its equally
important to know where all the
speed cameras are. Not that I
intend to drive above the speed
limit, but Avis, and other car
hire companies, charge a heavy
administration fee if you pick up
any fines!

menu of signature treatments


includes massages inspired by
ancient rituals, revitalizing
anti-aging skin treatments,
nourishing body scrubs, couples
retreats and much more.
On day two, I was invited
to join some other guests on a
truffle hunt. We met an old man
who, though twice my age, was
twice as fit as me. He worked
with his old dog, whose sense
of smell found us five valuable
white truffles! Did we try a few
shavings a little later on our
pasta? I think we did!
Two full days of indulgence,
so many different treatment
packages. For example, the One
Thousand Flowers package is a
luxurious, full-body, hydrating
Arriving at this incredible
old castle takes you straight
back to the Middle Ages. My
room was a two-bedroomed
duplex suite in one of the
original old towers. (In fact all
accommodation here is a suite or
a villa.) Now its time to relax!
At the heart of the hilltop
estate at Castello di Casole is
the Essere Spa. Originally the
estates wine cellar, the spa offers
a serene setting within one of
the most dramatic spaces on the
property. Barrel-vaulted ceilings
and restored stone walls create a
theatrical setting accentuated by
long views across the valley.
Essere Spa brings one into
harmony with body, mind,
spirit, and all that is Tuscany.
Treatments are inspired by
the best of Tuscanys natural
ingredients. Scents, oils
and lotions are infused with
indigenous local products
including olive oil, grape seeds
and fresh rosemary from the
Tuscan countryside. A full

extravaganza that begins with


a millefiori honey polish and
massage to soften the skin.
Next, a full body wrap ensures
deep penetration of moisture and
nutrients. While comfortably
snuggled in the wrap, a scalp
massage transports you to a state
of blissful relaxation. There are
seven treatment rooms, mens
and womens areas, a spectacular
couples treatment suite with
deep soaking tub and shower,
and luxurious private gardens.
And we finished the day
with dinner as you can only do
in Tuscany, with wine and olive
oil produced on the estate, in the
la carte restaurant or the less
formal pizzeria.
Tony Bassett, Tuscan Secrets

Essere Spa offers a serene setting within


one of the most dramatic spaces on the
Castello di Casole property

OFFER

Tuscan Secrets
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nday to Sunday
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CONTACT DETAILS
TUSCAN SECRETS
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January 2015 ITALIA! 71

IT122.AdGetSpa.sg4.indd 71

27/11/2014 13:41PM

Tailor-made holidays
to suit your every need

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sales@tuscansecrets.com
% 01344 627586

IT122.Adp72.sg1.indd 72

26/11/2014 17:36PM

FA S T A RT

THE BRONZE, GOLD-COVERED DOORS of the Florentine Baptistery


opposite the entrance to the Cathedral are one of the masterpieces of the
early Renaissance period. They were 25 years in the making (1425-1450)
by Lorenzo Ghiberti and his workshop and then installed on the eastern
side of the baptistery in 1452. The ten panels, shown in bas-relief, depict
the Old Testament in synthesis, arranged chronologically. The top left panel
depicts Creation and, moving from left to right, the cycle finishes with the
meeting of King Solomon and the Queen of Sheba in the Temple. These
doors are the second set of bronze doors Ghiberti had completed for the
Baptistery; his first (on the northern side of the building) he had done with his workshop during
the two decades immediately before. His second set, however, steal the show for their brilliance,
innovation, ingenuity and modernity.
Ghiberti won a competition held in 1401 for the commission of the bronze doors. Seven
artisans had applied, submitting a competition panel in bronze bas relief depicting the sacrifice
of Isaac. The 34 judges, selected from the important families of the city, awarded the youngest

Ghibertis gold doors

of the competitors, Lorenzo Ghiberti, 20 years old at the time, the prestigious and coveted
commission. He had trained as a goldsmith under his stepfather but was not yet a member of the
guild (goldsmiths were obliged to pay dues to the silk guild). In 1425, after the completion of
the first set, he was immediately given the commission for the second and most famous, doors.
Bronze cost ten times more than marble and few other cities could afford this type of
investment, but the Baptistery was one of the most important and loved buildings in the city,
as John the Baptist was the patron saint of the great Florentine Republic. All visitors to the city
could be expected to visit the cathedral square and so these huge decorative commissions for
cathedral squares were a political statement for the greatness of the city as a wholeas much as a
religious statement.
Ghibertis second set of doors display the first
monumental use of mathematical perspective in modern
Ghibertis Baptistery doors
art history.His nemesis, fellow Florentine Filippo
show the influence of his rival,
Filippo Brunelleschi
Brunelleschi, who had been one of the unsuccessful
competitors for the doors in 1401-2, had invented
mathematical perspective around 1416, which enabled
the artists to create the illusion of three dimensions
on the two-dimensional surface. This is absent from
Ghibertis first set doors with the 28 quatrefoil
panels; however, his second set of doors is a splendid
masterpiece of what was to become the defining
characteristic of Renaissance art: spatial realism with
people and buildings shown proportionately in relation
to their surroundings.
Art had been progressively gaining a more humanist
touch during the decades prior to Ghibertis work. There
was more facial expression, a greater sense of movement in
the figures and a less symbolic (icon style) representation:
a movement towards a more realistic representation of
the subjects. The invention of mathematical perspective
was the last and great crowning tool to really show true
representation of the here and now. Art reflects how
people thought at the time; the gold doors are testament
ABOUT THE WRITER
that Florence in the middle of the 1400s had placed once
FREYA MIDDLETON is a private tour guide and writer who lives in Florence, Tuscany.
more humankind in prime position, something that had
You can read her blog online or learn more about her tours at www.freyasflorence.com
not really been seen since Antiquity.

Photography Freya Middleton

Ghibertis doors are a splendid masterpiece of what would become the characteristic of
Renaissance art - spatial realism with people and buildings shown proportionately

January 2015 ITALIA! 73

IT122.FastArt.sg4.indd 73

25/11/2014 12:02PM

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28/04/2014 16:12

4 TA K E S O N T E N D E R S T E M B R O C C O L I

takes on
4TENDERSTEM
BROCCOLI

Photograph iStock

Amazing as it may seem, broccoli was virtually unknown in Britain until the 18th century, and
didnt become widespread in the Unites States until early in the 20th century, yet it has been
cultivated by the Italians since the early days of the Roman Empire. www.tenderstem.co.uk

January 2015 ITALIA! 75

IT122.Recipes - 4 Takes Broccoli.sg4.indd 75

26/11/2014 15:07PM

4 TA K E S O N T E N D E R S T E M B R O C C O L I

1
Bruschetta with
tenderstem, garlic
mushrooms and feta
Bruschetta allaglio,
broccolini e funghi
SERVES 2
Preparation
5 minutes
Cooking
5 minutes

1 ciabatta loaf
1 tbsp olive oil
200g packet of Tenderstem broccoli
2 handfuls of mushrooms any variety

2
SERVES 4
Preparation
1 hour
Cooking
12 minutes

Tenderstem and chorizo


pizza
Pizza ai broccolini e salame
piccante
FOR THE DOUGH

FOR THE TOPPING

350ml warm water (made


from boiling and cold)

240g Tenderstem

1 tbsp dried yeast

350g mozzarella, torn


into bite-sized pieces

1 tsp caster sugar

300g passata

a large knob of butter

600g strong white bread


flour, plus extra for dusting

1-2 garlic cloves, crushed

tsp fine sea salt

120g chopped chorizo,


or equivalent weight in
chopped ham

freshly ground sea salt and black pepper

2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil

50g Italian hard cheese

200g crumbled feta cheese


a handful of chopped flat-leaf parsley

Measure the water into a jug and sprinkle in the yeast


and sugar. Stir well and set aside for 10 minutes.

Slice open the ciabatta loaf and cut each side in half.
Brush with a little extra virgin olive oil and grill until
nicely toasted.

Weigh the flour into a bowl and stir through the salt. Make
a well in the middle and pour in the olive oil and the yeasty
water. Use a metal spoon to bring the dough together, then
tip onto the work surface.

Recipes and images www.tenderstem.co.uk

Steam or boil the Tenderstem for 3 minutes until tender.


Saut the mushrooms in a knob of butter and 1 or 2
crushed garlic cloves and season well with salt and pepper.

Knead for 8 minutes until smooth and stretchy. Place in a


lightly oiled bowl, cover with a tea towel and leave to rise
for 30 minutes.

Add the cooked Tenderstem and toss well to coat it in the


garlicky juices.

Blanch the Tenderstem for 2 minutes, drain and allow to


cool. Preheat the oven to 220C/Gas Mark 8.

Pile the Tenderstem and mushrooms onto the ciabatta


and top with the crumbled feta cheese.

Tip the dough onto a floured worktop and cut into 4. Roll
each piece to a 5mm thick circle and lay on a baking sheet.

Put the bruschetta back under the grill for 2 minutes


until the cheese just starts to soften.

Top each pizza by spreading out 2 or 3 tbsp of passata in


a thin layer, then divide the Tenderstem between each.
Sprinkle over the mozzarella and chorizo and scatter over
the cheese.

Eat immediately, drizzled with a little more extra virgin


olive oil and a generous sprinkle of finely chopped flatleaf parsley.

Bake in a hot oven for about 12 minutes until the crust is


crisp and the cheese melted and bubbling.

76 ITALIA! January 2015

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26/11/2014 15:03PM

3
Crab and Tenderstem
tagliatelle with lemon
and basil
Tagliatelle al granchio con
broccolini, limone e basilico
SERVES 2
Preparation
10 minutes
Cooking
10 minutes

4
Tenderstem bouquets
wrapped in pancetta with
aromatic Italian cod
Bouquet di broccolini avvolti
in pancetta con merluzzo
aromatizzato

200-300g tagliatelle
3 tbsp extra virgin olive oil
200g Tenderstem broccoli
2 garlic cloves, finely sliced

SERVES 4
Preparation
20 minutes
Cooking
10 minutes

3 cloves garlic, crsuhed


4 shallots, finely sliced

freshly ground sea salt


and black pepper

1 bunch fresh chives

tsp nutmeg, ground

a bunch dill

4 slices pancetta

100g white crab meat, fresh or frozen

a bunch flat-leaf parsley

2 tbsp extra virgin olive oil

the grated zest and juice of lemon

3 sprigs of thyme

freshly ground sea salt and black pepper

8 pieces of Tenderstem

4 medium cod fillets,


skinless and boneless

3 ripe tomatoes, quartered, de-seeded and diced

a small bunch of basil leaves, finely sliced


Bring a saucepan of salted water to the boil and cook the
tagliatelle until al dente.
Meanwhile, heat 2 tbsp of extra virgin olive oil in a frying
pan over a medium heat. Cut the Tenderstem into small
pieces, about 1-2cm long. Add to the pan, along with the
garlic, and fry until the Tenderstem is becoming tender,
and colouring slightly on the tips.
Increase the heat and add the diced tomatoes to the pan.
Fry for just a minute or so before adding the crab meat,
lemon zest and lemon juice.
Toss gently until the crab is heated through. Season with
salt and freshly ground black pepper before mixing into
the tagliatelle, basil and the remaining 1 tbsp olive oil.
Serve straight away.

Bring a pan of water to the boil. Meanwhile, prepare the


garlic and shallots, and chop the herbs.
Boil the Tenderstem for 2-3 minutes, drain and season with
salt, pepper and a half the nutmeg.
Gather the Tenderstem into pairs and wrap one slice of
pancetta around each pair, as if you were making a bouquet,
sprinkle with the rest of the nutmeg and set to one side.
Take a large frying pan, pour in the extra virgin olive oil,
add the garlic, shallots, herbs, salt and pepper, and cook on
a low-medium heat for 3-4 minutes until the shallots soften
and start to colour. Stir occasionally to avoid burning.
Fry the cod for 5 minutes, turning the fillets gently once.
In the last 2 minutes of cooking, place the Tenderstem
bouquets in the frying pan alongside the cod fillets. Using
tongs, turn the Tenderstem frequently so that the pancetta
colours evenly. When the pancetta is crisp, turn the heat off.
Serve immediately, making sure you scoop up the
flavoursome mixture of the oil, garlic, shallots and herbs.

January 2015 ITALIA! 77

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26/11/2014 15:03PM

E AT I TA L I A !

The Natural Cook


As Christmas turns to New Year, we are all looking for simple, honest fare as an antidote
to the pleasures of the feasting season. So this in issue we turn to eco-chef, food waste
activist and big eater Tom Hunt for some seasonal inspiration using only the finest
winter ingredients, made with love and care, and with January in mind

Braised mushrooms with rosemary


Funghi stufati con rosmarino
SERVES 4 PREPARATION 15 minutes COOKING 40 minutes
1 onion
1 carrot
3 garlic cloves
50g butter
400g portobello or field mushrooms
2 sprigs of rosemary
Thinly slice the onion, slice the
carrot into rounds and roughly chop
the garlic.
Heat a heavy-based flameproof
casserole dish over a medium
heat, add the butter and then
the onion, carrot and garlic.
Saut for 15 minutes until
soft and browned.
Meanwhile, preheat the
oven to 180C/Gas Mark 4.
Cut the mushrooms into
large chunks, then add
to the onions with the
rosemary.
Saut for five minutes,
until they take on a little
colour. Add 150ml water,
bring to the boil and scrape
any sticky bits from the base
of the pan.

Photography Laura Edwards

Taste, season, cover and put in


the oven for 15 minutes. Eat hot
with rice and veggies.

78 ITALIA! January 2015

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25/11/2014 15:19PM

Leek and potato pizza


Pizza ai porri e patate
SERVES 6 PREPARATION 2 hours COOKING 30 minutes
FOR THE SPELT DOUGH

50g butter

150g spelt flour, or


strong white flour, plus
more to dust

2 garlic cloves

tsp dried yeast


1 tsp fine salt
a glug of extra virgin
olive oil, plus more for
the topping
a little light olive oil
FOR THE CREAMED LEEKS
400g leeks

40ml white wine


(optional)
80ml double cream
FOR THE TOPPING
1 quantity creamed leeks
2 potatoes (about
300g), sliced 5mm thick
3 sprigs of rosemary,
needles picked

First make the dough. Mix all the ingredients


except the light olive oil together with 100ml
warm water. Cover with a clean plastic bag and
set aside to rest for 30 minutes. Knead the
dough for five minutes, then rest for one and a
half hours to prove in a warm place.
For the creamed leeks, slice the leeks into 1cm
pieces, using everything but the very darkest
tops (compost those). Wash them thoroughly.
Heat a large frying pan over a medium heat,
add the butter and the leeks and saut for 10
minutes until soft. Roughly chop the garlic,
add it to the pan and saut for a further two
minutes, then add the wine (if using), or 40ml
water, and allow it to boil for two minutes.
Reduce the heat and add the cream. Stir

occasionally for 10 minutes, until the leeks are


soft and the sauce has thickened.
When ready to cook, preheat the oven to its
maximum temperature for a good 15 minutes,
so that its really hot. Boil the potatoes for
about five minutes, until they just soften.
Drain and allow to dry. Toss with a splash of
extra virgin oil, salt, pepper and the rosemary.
Oil a baking tray with the regular light olive
oil. Roll out the dough 3-5mm thick on a
lightly floured work surface, to the size of the
tray. Fill the tray with the dough. Spread with
the creamed leeks, then place the rosemary
and potatoes evenly on top. Drizzle with extra
virgin oil and bake for 25-30 minutes, or until
the base has browned and is cooked through.

January 2015 ITALIA! 79

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25/11/2014 15:20PM

E AT I TA L I A !

Pured cauliflower with poached chicken and vegetables


Passato di cavolfiore con affogato di pollo e verdure
SERVES 4-6 as a side dish PREPARATION 30 minutes COOKING 2 hours
FOR THE PURED CAULIFLOWER
1 small cauliflower (about 500g)
400ml whole cows, goats or almond milk
1 bay leaf
FOR THE DISH
1 quantity pured cauliflower
1 chicken, with giblets (1-1.5kg)
2 bay leaves
1 tsp fenugreek seeds or dried fenugreek
leaves (optional)
8 small carrots
8 shallots
2 celery sticks, each cut into 4

Preheat the oven to 150C/Gas Mark 2.


Choose a pot big enough to hold tightly the
whole chicken as well as all the vegetables.
Add the chicken and its giblets (apart from
the liver), bay leaves, fenugreek, if using, and
a generous pinch of salt, then cover with cold
water. Gently bring to the boil, then cover
and immediately reduce the heat to a low,
trembling simmer. Leave for 15 minutes.
Add the carrots, shallots, celery and garlic.
Cover once more and put into the oven for
one hour.
Meanwhile, pull off the green leaves from
the cauliflower. Cut the smaller leaves into
rough pieces and compost the larger, tougher
leaves. Break the cauliflower into florets.
Peel the stalk only if it is tough, then cut
it into pieces the same size as the florets.

Put the cauliflower and smaller leaves into


a small saucepan and add the milk and bay
leaf. Cover and gently bring to the boil, then
reduce the heat and simmer for 10 minutes,
or until tender when pierced with a knife.
Remove the bay leaf. Blend, in batches, to
a smooth pure (the blender should only be
one-third full), using just enough milk to
help the process and to get the consistency
you want. Season carefully with salt.
Remove from the oven and rest for 20-25
minutes. Serve the chicken whole on a platter
with the poached vegetables and garlic
cloves and the hot cauliflower pure. Cooked
like this, the heart and neck of the bird are
treats, full of flavour.

8 garlic cloves

80 ITALIA! January 2015

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25/11/2014 15:21PM

Marmalade polenta cake


Torta di polenta con marmellata
SERVES 8-10 PREPARATION 2 hours COOKING 1 hour
FOR THE MARMALADE OF
SWEET ORANGES
(Makes three 500ml jars)
1kg sweet oranges
1 unwaxed lemon
1kg jam sugar
FOR THE MARMALADE
POLENTA CAKE
250g marmalade of sweet oranges
200g unsalted butter, at room
temperature, plus more for the tin
250g rapadura or raw cane sugar
1 large orange
200g ground almonds
150g fine polenta
tsp baking powder
3 eggs, lightly beaten

Squeeze the oranges and the lemon. Cut the citrus shells
into quarters and then into 3-5mm strips. Place the chopped
peel, the juice and 2.5 litres water in a large pan, or a
preserving pan. Bring to the boil, then reduce the heat
and simmer for one hour, to soften the peel. Meanwhile,
sterilize three 500ml jam jars and put a plate in the freezer.
When the peel is soft, add the sugar to the pan. Boil for 15
minutes, stirring regularly. To test for a set, take the plate
out of the freezer and place 1 tsp of the marmalade on it.
Put in the freezer for two minutes. Remove from the freezer
and push a line through the marmalade with your finger.
If your finger cuts through cleanly, it is ready. If it is still
runny, boil for another 15 minutes and repeat the test, until
it is set. Fill the hot jars with the hot marmalade and screw
the lids on tightly. Allow to cool.
Preheat the oven to 170C/Gas Mark 3. Butter a 22-25cm
round cake tin, then sprinkle in half the sugar. Finely grate
the zest from the orange, then carefully pare off and discard
the white pith. Cut the orange horizontally into 1cm-thick
slices. Layer the slices of orange over the layer of sugar in
the prepared tin.
Beat the butter with 100g of the marmalade, the other half
of the sugar, the ground almonds, polenta, baking powder,
orange zest and eggs, then pour the batter into the tin.
Bake in the oven for 40-50 minutes, until it doesnt wobble
when you shake it. Remove from the oven and turn out
while still warm, so the oranges are on top, carefully
prising off any orange slices that have stuck to the tin
and arranging them back on top of the cake. Gently heat
the remaining 150g marmalade in a small saucepan. When
melted, spread it over the orange slices. Eat warm or cold.

INFORMATION
The Natural Cook by Tom Hunt
(20), published by Quadrille.

January 2015 ITALIA! 81

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25/11/2014 15:21PM

CHEF'S NOTES

No! he interrupted me,


Please, no garlic in
the risotto!

Chef's Notes

PERFECTING RISOTTO

efore I moved to Italy, I


never ate, let alone cooked,
risotto. However, after living
in northern Italy for a few
months, I immediately
became enamoured of the idea of risotto.
Its so versatile: its divine as a hot lunch
on a freezing January day; you can add
vegetables and meat to it for a hearty
dinner; it can be a first course or a main
course, and if you add lots of fresh herbs,
some lemon and a few plump green peas,
its the perfect summer supper.
There are also many ways to make
it, and equally as many theories on the
correct way to make it. There is the way
that northern Italian grandmothers make
it, which is probably best, but will always
remain a secret. There is the simplified
version that busy Americans love to make.
(Stir it constantly? Not necessary!) There
are all different types of rice you can use:
traditionally Arborio, carnaroli and vialone
nano, but more modern kitchens have also
made it with trendier grains like farro.
If you arent a true born and bred Italian
and if you havent had recipes passed down to
you from your grandmother, then cooking it
is a learning process, but if youre lucky, you
can get some tips along the way.

A few months ago I was invited to have


lunch at an Italian friends house and she
served mushroom risotto. Her version had
the perfect al dente texture that I had been
striving for and her husband had picked
the mushrooms himself, in the actual
forest a far cry from the packaged button
mushrooms that I buy in the grocery store.
Finally, she added a ton of fresh parsley,
which brought the whole dish together a
strategy which I have now adopted for my
own risotto.
Another time, my husband and I were
out for aperitivo when we bumped into our
neighbour. After chatting with him for a
while, we excused ourselves, saying that we
had to go home and make dinner.
He asked what I was making and when I
told him it was a radicchio risotto, he asked
how I did it. I explained that I chopped
up an onion and put it in a pan with some
butter and olive oil and a bit of garlic.
No! he interrupted me, Please, no
garlic in the risotto!
I didnt quite understand but I assured
him I would not use garlic and then went
home to make the dish senza aglio, another
strategy Ive adopted, though Im still
not quite sure why. But if thats how the
Italians do it, thats how I want to do it.

Photography Sophie Dingle

Making risotto is a skill for which there are no shortcuts you must
practise, practise and practise. But you don't have to stir, stir and stir

82 ITALIA! January 2015

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25/11/2014 13:43PM

Both of these recipes call for 1 litre of stock, an amount I have


always found sufficient with 250g of rice. However, its a good
idea to have extra stock on hand in case you find that the rice isnt
finished after the original 1 litre. You can also use a little bit of
warm water at the end of cooking if you dont have extra stock but
find that the rice isnt yet at the consistency you want.

Mushroom risotto
Risotto ai funghi
SERVES 2 as a main course KITCHEN TIME 1 hour
1 litre chicken or vegetable stock
20g butter
15ml olive oil
1 small onion, chopped
250g Arborio rice
a splash of dry white wine
150g button or cremini
mushrooms, sliced
10g finely chopped parsley
10g finely grated hard Italian
cheese
30ml cream

Bring the chicken or vegetable stock to a


simmer in a saucepan. Heat the butter and
olive oil in a large saut pan on medium
heat. When the butter has melted, add the
chopped onion and cook until soft, about
5 minutes. Add the rice to the pan and stir
to coat with the butter and olive oil. Toast
the rice for one minute, then add a splash
of white wine. Add the mushrooms to the
rice. Using a soup ladle, add a ladle of
the hot stock into the rice and stir. When
the rice has fully absorbed the stock, add
another ladle until all the stock has been
added. When finished, the rice should have
a creamy consistency but an al dente bite.
Add in the parsley, cheese and cream and
stir together. Serve immediately.

Radicchio and sausage risotto


Risotto salsiccia e radicchio
SERVES 2 as a main course KITCHEN TIME 1 hour
200g sausage, crumbled
1 litre chicken stock
20g butter
15ml olive oil
1 small onion, chopped
1 small head of radicchio,
cut into thin strips
250mg Arborio rice
10g finely grated Italian
hard cheese
30ml cream
black pepper

Bring the stock to a gentle simmer in a


saucepan. In a small saut pan, cook the
sausage until it is no longer pink and then
set aside. In another, larger saut pan,
melt the butter and olive oil together over
medium heat, then add the chopped onion
and cook until soft, about 5 minutes.
Add the strips of radicchio to the pan
and cook for two more minutes. Add the
rice to the pan and stir to coat it with
the butter and olive oil; let rice toast
for one minute. Add a ladleful of stock
to the rice and gently stir. When the rice
has fully absorbed that stock, add another
ladleful until all the stock has been added
and absorbed. Stir in the sausage crumbles
with the cheese, cream and a bit of black
pepper. Serve immediately.

ABOUT THE AUTHOR


Sophie Dingle is a freelance writer who lives in Cortina dAmpezzo for
seven months out of each year. While in Italy she loves to eat, cook,
explore and drink red wine. You can follow her adventures online at
sophiedingle.blogspot.com

January 2015 ITALIA! 83

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25/11/2014 13:43PM

B U Y I TA L I A !

LANGUAGE GUIDES
Whether youre a complete beginner or want to brush up
your existing Italian skills theres a course out there to
suit you. Heres our pick of the crop

here has never been a better time to learn a language.


Gone are the days when youd have to rely on a fusty old
phrasebook to teach yourself Italian today we can choose
from a vast wealth of interesting, innovative tomes (with
or without audio guides attached), not to mention a host of
ebooks, apps and online courses that cater for every level of skill and are
designed to suit a wide array of technological platforms. Getting to grips
with the local lingo is the perfect way to get yourself ready for foreign
travels and to make the most of your time abroad. So if youre travelling
to Italy next year, or simply making resolutions to brush up your skills
in 2015, nows the perfect time to find a course that suits you. The only
problem can be narrowing down all those choices! With this in mind,
weve put together a collection of diverse options to ensure you get the
most from your Italian language endeavours. Weve listed the publishers
websites here, but most book/CD options are also available via www.
amazon.co.uk and other online and high-street bookshops.
2

BBC ACTIVE
TALK ITALIAN
COMPLETE

1
1 LIVING ITALIAN
(6TH EDITION)

TO
DI R

LIA! E

JAN
2015

S CHO

IT
ICE A

From www.bbc
activelanguages.com
Price 29.99
This pack includes
three books and four
CDs, offering all you
need to make the
move from beginner
to confident Italian
speaker. The books are
beautifully laid out and
the interactive audio
CDs support the course
well. Clear explanations
and learning tips and
strategies along the
way help you make
progress, while regular
exercises keep you
consolidating your
knowledge as you go.
The two Talk Italian
books provide the main
body of the course, while
the Grammar book offers
a concise guide to the
backbone of the language.

BEST FOR: A GOOD ALL-ROUND COURSE


For anyone who wants a complete guide to Italian (the components are also
available separately if you want to break it down).

From Hodder & Stoughton


www.hodder.co.uk
Price 15.99
Consisting of a book and audio
CD, this thorough course is now
in its 6th edition the first
appeared in 1961. Its longevity
is testament to the efficacy of
its traditional, grammar-based
approach which doesnt shy away
from the nuts and bolts of the
language, resulting in a truly indepth understanding. Including
exercises along the way, this will
work wonders for anyone who
can devote time and motivation
to their learning.

BABBEL ITALIAN

From Babbel
www.babbel.com
Price 8.95 a month, 17.85
for three months or 29.70 for
six months
Babbel offers online, interactive
courses for beginners and
intermediate learners (plus
additional courses that focus
on grammar, vocab, writing,
listening and speaking) in this
compelling language aid. You
learn at your own pace and each
lesson is thorough, fun and
effective. A free app for iPhone,
iPod Touch, iPad and Android
lets you access your course
anytime, anywhere too.

BEST FOR: A GROUNDING


IN GRAMMAR

BEST FOR: KEEPING


YOU MOTIVATED

Anyone with some existing


knowledge should find the
traditional approach of this
grammar-based course ideal
for improving your skills.

Interactive, suitable for


a wide ability range and
available for various
platforms, this is an
excellent online option.

84 ITALIA! January 2015

IT122.BuyItalia.sg4.indd 84

26/11/2014 14:58PM

3
3 FAST TALK
ITALIAN

From Lonely Planet


shop.lonelyplanet.com
Price 2.50
Not had chance to pick up the
language before you jet off?
Also available as an app, this
tiny tome is a handy guide
to take to Italy. As the name
suggests, it aims to impart
instant knowledge so you can
communicate with the locals
while on holiday. Its basically
a phrasebook, but its small
size, excellent organisation and
relevant vocabulary make it an
essential holiday companion for
any beginner.

4 15-MINUTE
ITALIAN LANGUAGE
PACK

From Dorling Kindersley


www.dk.co.uk
Price 13.99
With 12 themed chapters, broken
down into five 15-minute daily
lessons, this course aims to
teach you enough to get by in
just three months. Covering all
the holiday situations youd
expect, each session begins with
a warm-up to consolidate your
existing knowledge, then gives
vocab and exercises on each topic
(the end of each week is a review
and repeat). Two CDs offer
pronunciation help.

5
5 KEEP TALKING
ITALIAN TEN DAYS
TO CONFIDENCE

6 MICHEL THOMAS
START ITALIAN

From Hodder & Stoughton


www.hodder.co.uk
Price 14.99
This new ebook and audio
course from the acclaimed
Teach Yourself range aims to
help advanced beginners to
gain confidence in speaking
and understanding Italian. It
gives plenty of opportunity to
listen and talk youll learn
new things and practise as you
go. With the chance to listen to
Italian speakers then try it out
yourself, youll be raring to chat
by the time you get to Italy.

From Hodder & Stoughton


www.hodder.co.uk
Price 12.98
Michel Thomas is a big name
in languages, and with a long
history of satisfied polyglots
behind him, its easy to see
why. This CD is the basic
option, teaching 50 key phrases
(advanced learners may benefit
from the Total, Perfect or
Masterclass courses). The
method breaks Italian into its
component parts learning in
small steps means you can build
the language back up to say
exactly what you want.

BEST FOR: TAKING ON


YOUR TRAVELS

BEST FOR: A QUICK AND


EASY BASIC FIX

BEST FOR: BOOSTING


CONFIDENCE

BEST FOR: A GREAT


INTRO TO ITALIAN

Pocket-sized and packed


with info, this phrasebook
will help you to get by if
you need some vocab while
youre away.

If youve little free time


to spend on learning, or
need to brush up before an
impending holiday, this is
the guide for you.

Already have some Italian


knowledge and want to
chat happily to the locals?
This could be the option
for you.

This respected course offers


a unique starting point and
a good basis for further
learning (no books or writing
required!).

January 2015 ITALIA! 85

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26/11/2014 14:58PM

Learn Italian presto!


Go from absolute beginner to confident
Italian speaker with the new edition of
Talk Italian Complete!
Developed by language-learning experts
Talk Italians bestselling approach has already
helped thousands of people like you.
Great value book and CD packs are available
from your favourite bookstore or visit
www.amazon.co.uk and search for Talk Italian.

Enhanced
TalkItalA5_v4.indd 1

IT122.Adp86.sg1.indd 86

available now on
20/11/2014 15:33

26/11/2014 17:20PM

QUESTIONS & ANSWERS

THIS MONTHS
EXPERTS
DAWN CAVANAGHHOBBS is co-founder
of the successful
fractional ownership
company Appassionata
Ltd, a UK-based
development business
that specialises in the
restoration and creation
of unique properties in the stunning region of
Le Marche. info@appassionata.com
www.appassionata.com
LAURA PROTTI is dual
qualified as an Italian
avvocato and English
solicitor. She has
extensive experience
in Italian property law,
international private
law, contract law,
succession law, and
taxation, and has assisted with the drafting
and updating of books and articles on Italian
Law. www.leplaw.co.uk
MARK SWIFT
is Marketing Manager
at DeLonghi UK and
has a wealth of
knowledge about
coffee. DeLonghi make
some of the best coffee
machines on the market
today to see
the full range of options for home coffee
machines see their website at
www.seriousaboutcoffee.com

QUESTIONS
& ANSWERS
Our experts are here to help with all your questions about Italy.
Email your questions to italia@anthem-publishing.com, or write to us
at our usual address, as given on page 6
OPTIONS FOR FRACTIONAL
PROPERTY OWNERSHIP

My husband and I dream of living in Italy


one day, but until were in a position to
retire and release the equity in our house in
London thats what it shall remain a dream!
My husband earns an annual bonus from his
work of around 15,000. Were interested in
fractional ownership in a property in Le Marche
as a stop-gap before we can buy outright. Can
you please let us know what wed be able to
afford with that as a total annual budget?
Sharon Tait, by email

Our family run business, Appassionata,


is based in Le Marche and we have a
number of fractional properties. The two
farmhouses, Casa Giacomo and Casa Leopardi
are both sold out, but we have just launched
Casa Tre Archi, a stunning townhouse built
into the ancient turret walls of the medieval
town of Petritoli. The property comprises of
three double bedrooms and three bathrooms,
spacious living areas on two floors, and
outside space on all three floors, including a
wonderful roof terrace offering spectacular
views across the region. With numerous blue
flag beaches within a 20-minute drive and
the beautiful Sibillini mountains and national
park just 45 minutes away, this is the ideal
location, whatever the season.
Fractional ownership with Appassionata
is a great option for people who dont want

to tie up all their capital in a second home


when realistically they would only use it for a
few weeks each year, and owners share all the
annual running costs.
Petritoli is a traditional Italian town
with cobbled streets and family-run shops,
bars and restaurants. Living in the heart of
a medieval town is a great way to immerse
yourself into the Italian lifestyle where the
local people are friendly and warm, with
strong family values its like stepping back
in time.
Fractional ownership is a great way to
get to know an area if you plan on buying
your own property in the future, but many
of our owners have previously owned a
holiday home outright in the past and
decided they didnt want the cost, hassle
and maintenance costs of a home they only
managed to use for a few weeks a year. The
ease of fractional ownership really made
sense to them; they turn up at the property
and everything is prepared for them; they
can immediately relax and enjoy their stay.
A five-week annual share in Casa Tre
Archi starts from just 65,000, but hurry: we
only have six shares remaining!
If you would like to book a discovery
trip and explore the beautiful region of Le
Marche, have a tour of the property and the
local town, please contact us and we will be
happy to help you organise your stay.
Dawn Cavanagh-Hobbs, Appassionata

Casa Tre Archi

January 2015 ITALIA! 87

IT122.Q&A.sg6.indd 87

27/11/2014 13:48PM

ITALIA!

legal
expert
CASH PAYMENT LIMITS IN ITALY

I am a UK resident but until


recently held a business in Italy.
I have now sold that business and the
proceeds were deposited into my UK
bank, with which I have a Euro account.
I am in the process of renovating a
house in Umbria and the builder has
asked to be paid in cash. I would like
to withdraw the cash in Euros from my
UK bank and take it with me to Italy
to settle my bill. Is there a legal limit
on how much cash I can carry a) out of
the UK and b) into Italy. The amount in
question will be around 85,000.
David Jones, by email

Laura Protti, LEP Law

Photograph iStock

You need to declare to HM


Revenue & Customs (HMRC)
any sums of cash of 10,000 or more
(or the equivalent value in other
currencies) if you are entering the
UK from a country outside the EU
or leaving the UK to travel directly
to a country outside the EU.
You do not need to declare
cash to HM Revenue & Customs
(HMRC) if you are travelling to
another EU country.

However, you do need to declare


any sums of cash of 10,000 or
more to the Italian authorities when
entering Italy.
You are perfectly free to take
with you any sums of cash that are
over this limit but you are required
to fill in a form when entering the
country. You may be asked where
the funds come from and how you
intend to use them in Italy.
Furthermore, new Italian antimoney laundering regulations state
that payments above the limit of
999.99 must be made via bank
transfer, cheque, bank drafts or
credit/debit cards. Payments in cash
above this limit are not allowed.
Heavy penalties apply to
violations that range from a
minimum fine of 3,000 to up to
40 per cent of the amounts paid.
I strongly advise you against
paying the builder any sums of
money above the limit of 999.99
and to always ask for an official
receipt for all money paid.

Coffee
Corner
AFTER DINNER

Id like to buy my wife


a coffee machine for
Christmas. Im fed up of using
our stove-top espresso maker! Im
after a no-fuss, easy-to-use machine
that is capable of bean to cup. Ive seen the Eletta model
from DeLonghi mentioned in Italia! magazine and Im
tempted, despite the cost. Though my question is, how fast
is its output? Weve invited ten guests around for a New
Years Eve party, so how long would it take to serve all 12
of us with an after-dinner espresso, for instance? Also, can
you recommend any after-dinner coffee-based cocktails to
really keep the party going?
Peter Brent, by email

The Eletta Bean-to-Cup Coffee Machine range


features DeLonghis unique and new LatteCream
System: it will impress you and your friends alike by
automatically serving you hot frothed milk direct to
your cup that is so deliciously dense and creamy. The
new Milk Menu allows you to prepare more milkbased beverages, such as espresso macchiato.
With the Eletta Bean-to-Cup machine you can
make two espressos at once, and the delivery time
from pressing the button to your finished drink is
approximately 40 seconds, so all your 12 guests can
enjoy their espressos within 5 minutes.
Surprise your guests with something different.
Dust off your cocktail shaker and try our recipe for the
perfect Espresso Martini:
4 crushed ice cubes
2 shots of Vodka
2 shots of coffee liqueur
1 shot of espresso
Use your DeLonghi Bean-to-Cup
machine to get a crema-rich
espresso at the touch of a button.
Combine all the ingredients
together in a cocktail shaker and
shake to blend.

Why not visit our coffee website


www.seriousaboutcoffee.com. Go to The Lounge
> Recipes > Party Drinks for more fantastic ideas.

Beware how much


you pay in cash

Laura Protti is the founder of LEP Law.


She is dual-qualified as an Italian avvocato and
English solicitor, and specialises in assisting British
and Italian clients with matters relating to Italian
law. Visit her website at www.leplaw.co.uk for more.

Mark Swift,
DeLonghi

88 ITALIA! January 2015

IT122.Q&A.sg6.indd 88

27/11/2014 13:48PM

D R I N K I TA L I A !

ALTERNATIVE
TUSCAN REDS
The red wines of Tuscany are many and varied its not all
about the Big Three. Paul Pettengale explores deeper into the
region and picks some gems from off the beaten track

lthough Tuscany is as well-known for its wines as for its


rolling landscape and incredible sunlight, its actually a
relatively small producer of wine in terms of volume. Yes, its
the countrys third largest producer of accredited (DOC and
DOCG wines), behind Piedmont and the Veneto, but it ranks
eighth in total volume. Poor soil accounts for this to a great extent, though
until as recently as the 1970s it has been because the wine producers in

Things changed in 1969, when Tenuta San


Guido started producing Sassicaia
the region had concentrated largely on the Big Three: Chianti, Brunello di
Montalcino and Vino Nobile di Montepulciano. White wines hardly got a
look in and the other wine-producing zones would typically make simple
table (IGT) wines for knocking back with a hearty stew.
Things changed, however, in 1969. Tenuta San Guido, a winery in the
Bolgheri zone of coastal, southern Tuscany started producing a wine called
Sassicaia, using 85 per cent Cabernet Sauvignon and 15 per cent Cabernet
Franc grape varieties, aping the great Bordeaux wines of France varieties
that werent legal in the production of Tuscany wines at the time. Yet
despite having to use the lowly IGT label denomination it went down a
storm, scooping numerous awards upon release. The Super Tuscan wines
were born! And it wasnt long before the bigger and more well-known
wineries of the region started to create their own. Although Sassicaia still
commands huge prices, there are alternative red wines from Tuscany that
deserve respect. We suggest you turn the page for our selection.

IT122.DrinkItalia.sg5.indd 89

27/11/2014 13:56PM

BRONZONE
MORELLINO
DI SCANSANA
2010, TENUTA
BELGUARDO

From Great Western Wine


www.greatwesternwine.co.uk
Price 19.95
This elegant wine is made
using just the local Tuscan
Sangiovese grape variety.
Richer that a Chianti, it has
pronounced cherry and dark
plum aromas with a touch
of wood smoke and tar.
Dark red in colour, it is both
richly textured and very full
of body, with a good tannic
structure and plenty to draw
you back on the finish. A fine
expression of Sangiovese and
perfect with winter stews and
hearty soups.

IT122.DrinkItalia.sg5.indd 90

DOGAJOLO
TOSCANA 2012 IGT,
CARPINETO

From Majestic
www.majestic.co.uk
Price 11.99 (see text)
This IGT-classified wine (table
wine, essentially) is made of
two grape varieties; the local
Sangiovese and the imported
Cabernet Sauvignon, though
the juice from each is vinified
separately before being mixed
and stored in oak barrels.
This makes for a rich, though
not over-powerful blend. The
Sangiovese lends cherry and
blackberry fruit while the
Cabernet Sauvignon gives
cedar and a touch of weight
and sophistication. Oh, and
its only 8.99 a bottle when
you buy two.

LE VOLTE DELL
ORNELLAIA 2012
IGT, ORNELLAIA

From Great Western Wine


From Majestic
www.majestic.co.uk
Price 24.00 (see text)
The Ornellaia brand is long
associated with Super Tuscan
wines. Its one of the oldest,
and one of the best, though
its extremely expensive
(150 a bottle or so,
depending on the vintage).
However, just 24 (or 19
if you buy two) buys you its
baby brother from the same
winery. A mix of Bordeaux
and local grape varieties
blended and matured in oak
barrels for ten months. Dark
and extremely rich it packs a
serious blackberry punch.

VILLA ANTINORI
IGT 2011,
ANTINORI

From Waitrose
www.waitrose.com
Price 14.99
The proud and remarkablyestablished Antinori estate
boasts more than 600 years
of wine-making and is famed
for its Chianti Classico wines.
This one, an IGT-classified
wine, uses a fine blend
of Sangiovese, Cabernet
Sauvignon, Merlot and Syrah
to wonderful effect. Matured
in oak, the resultant wine is
very fleshy with lots of dark
forest fruits and hints of
cedar and oak. Its a robust,
potentially challenging wine
that definitely needs to be
enjoyed with food.

GREAT WITH

GREAT WITH

GREAT WITH

GREAT WITH

Tuscan dishes such as


hunters chicken, and
anything with wild boar.

Venison sausages, prime


steaks and all manner of
roasted red meats.

All sorts of game will work


well with this, especially
haunch of venison.

Rare roast beef, preferably


fore rib, and dark, sticky
winter stews.

27/11/2014 13:56PM

D R I N K I TA L I A !

MEDITERRA
TOSCANA 2011 IGT,
POGGIO AL TESORO

From Liberty Wines


www.libertywines.co.uk
Price 17.99
Relatively new on the wine
scene, Poggio al Tesoro
acquired 70 hectares on
vineyards next to the famed
Ornellaia fields in 2001. In
just ten years it has worked
minor miracles, creating this
stunning wine using a blend
of Syrah, Cabernet Sauvignon
and Merlot grape varieties.
Although retaining power
and structure, it is extremely
smooth and satisfying. Like
most Bolgheri wines it has
dark fruit aromas, a warming
palate and a very long,
complex finish.

CARMIGNANO
VILLA DI
CAPEZZANA 2010,
CAPEZZANA

From Liberty Wines


www.libertywines.co.uk
Price 24.99
The blend of Sangiovese and
Cabernet Sauvignon grape
varieties gains more and more
support in Tuscany and when
you taste this wine from
Capezzana youll understand
why. The Cabernet brings with
it real power and backbone
to the (relatively) fragile
Sangiovese, creating very
complex wines that retain
subtlety and above all
wondrous levels of flavour.
This one is full of ripe black
cherries, soft summer fruits
and a meaty, long finish.

SANGIOVESE DI
TOSCANA 2012,
SCOPETONE

From Berry Bros & Rudd


www.bbr.com
Price 11.99
Not all wines from Tuscany
have to fill your mouth
with powerful dark fruit. We
deliberately picked this wine
because it demonstrates the
playful, lighter side of the
Sangiovese grape variety. Its
a red wine that has fresh fruit
aromas, a lively balance and
can easily be drunk on its
own rather than with food.
Theres a blackberry and apple
twang to it with a bit of
bramble thrown in. That said,
its no washout, with enough
character to have you coming
back for more.

H DI
NT

OF T
RY

V
SCO E

JAN
2015

THE SAME BUT


DIFFERENT

MO
HE

arking from the town of


Montepulciano in Tuscany,
this Rosso di Montepulciano
wine is a cousin of the more
famous and much more expensive Vino
Nobile di Montepulciano. So even though
its not exactly off the beaten track, it is a
different take on the well-known classic. This
example, from Caputo Wines (14,99 from
www.caputowines.co.uk, 01244 757157) is
an elegant and graceful wine with soft cherry
fruit and a slightly vanilla character backed
up by enough controlled power to make it a
real mouth-filler. It has a lingering finish and
works well with all roasted joints
of red meats. Our apologies to Caputo
Wines for printing an incorrect version
of its web address in our December issue.

GREAT WITH

GREAT WITH

GREAT WITH

Slow roasted shoulder of


lamb, sausage casseroles
or a juicy rib eye steak.

A T-bone steak cooked


over embers, or field
mushrooms fried in butter.

Lighter meat dishes,


traditional Tuscan soups
and soft cheeses.

An elegant and
graceful wine with
soft cherry fruit
and a slightly
vanilla character
January 2015 ITALIA! 91

IT122.DrinkItalia.sg5.indd 91

27/11/2014 13:57PM

NEXT MONTH IN

ITALIA!
HIDDEN VENICE

Contents may be subject to change

Discover the secrets of the sinking city with our local guides
tour of the lesser-known places to visit

HOMES IN LE MARCHE
Buying a property in the region that has it all
TAKE THE KIDS TO ROME!
How to enjoy a family trip to Italys capital
48 HOURS IN BRESCIA
The city known as the Lioness of Italy

PLUS The Medicis in


Florence, Roman-style
pizza recipes, visiting
Campania, starting a
restoration project, white
wines from the islands
and much more!

Subscribe & save money! Turn to page 36 to ensure you never miss an issue!

DONT MISS ITALIA! ISSUE 123 ON SALE 15 JANUARY


IT122.Nextmonth.sg5.indd 92

26/11/2014 14:52PM

BOOK REVIEWS

IN PRINT

In this months selection of books we encounter the exploits of a dotty


fictional contessa, explore the confounding attitudes and activities of the
Italians, and we sample two shorts from Roberto Saviano
FEELINGS OF GUILT BOOK TWO IN
THE AN ECCENTRIC IN LUCCA SERIES

Stuart Fifield, Book Guild, 17.99 (hardback)

Following his first Eccentric in Lucca title, 2013s Errant Angels, Stuart Fifield
engages us with yet more of the turmoils and conundrums that face the everso-slightly mad Contessa di Capezzani-Batelli, head of the Chamber Opera
Group of Lucca. A combination of music and mayhem best describes this
book. Its often amusing, sometimes bemusing, as it describes how private
lives invade and pervade the day-to-day activities of the operatic group as it
prepares for its latest concert, put on to raise money to help animals in the
Middle East and India. Fun, but also equally touching.

THE RING + THE


OPPOSITE OF DEATH

Roberto Saviano, Maclehose Press,


7.99 (paperback)

Saviano has made fame (and, no doubt


fortune though that itself at a cost)
for himself as the author of the cult
title Gomorrah, the mafia-based tale
that has since been made into a hit
film and earned the author death
threats. This new book is small but
punchy, containing a short story (The
Ring) and a short novella (The Opposite
of Death). Tales of vengeance, grief
and guilt, they make for essential
reading for any Saviano fan.

THE ITALIANS
John Hooper, Allen Lane/Penguin, 16.99 (hardback)
The Italians are a baffling lot, and this new title by the Italy correspondent
for The Economist attempts to unravel the mysteries of their culture, habits,
faiths, prejudices and more. Anyone who wants an insight into contemporary
Italy and its inhabitants should have a read its entertaining (why, the
author asks, do Italians have 12 different words for a coat hanger, yet none
for a hangover?), well-written and brings fresh opinion on aspects of Italian
life that the Italians seemingly take for granted, but which other Western
cultures (let alone those further afield) find inexplicable.

January 2015 ITALIA! 93

IT122.BookReviews.sg5.indd 93

27/11/2014 14:11PM

GETTING THERE

ITALY FLIGHT GUIDE

Let Italia!s flight guide take the hard work out of planning your trip. Just pick your ideal
destination from our handy map of Italy and locate the corresponding number from the list.

DESTINATION

ORIGIN

OPERATOR

DESTINATION

Alghero

Dublin
LDN Gatwick
LDN Luton
LDN Stansted
Manchester
LDN Stansted
Dublin
LDN Gatwick
LDN Stansted
Bristol
Cork
Dublin
East Midlands
Knock Ireland West
Leeds Bradford
LDN Stansted
Manchester
Bristol
Dublin
Edinburgh
LDN Gatwick
LDN Heathrow
LDN Stansted
Manchester
LDN Gatwick
LDN Stansted
LDN Gatwick
LDN Stansted
Bristol
Birmingham
Dublin
LDN Gatwick
LDN Luton
Manchester
Dublin
LDN Stansted
Birmingham
LDN Gatwick
LDN City
LDN Gatwick
LDN Stansted
LDN Stansted
Birmingham
Dublin
Edinburgh

Ryanair
Thomson
Ryanair
Ryanair
Thomson***
Ryanair
Ryanair
BA, easyJet
Ryanair
Ryanair
Ryanair
Ryanair
Ryanair
Ryanair
Ryanair
Ryanair
Ryanair
Ryanair
Aer Lingus, Ryanair
Ryanair
easyJet
BA
Ryanair
Ryanair
easyJet**
Ryanair
Meridiana, BA**
easyJet
easyJet***
Thomson
Aer Lingus
BA, easyJet, Norwegian, Thomson
easyJet
easyJet, Thomson
Ryanair
Ryanair
Flybe
Vueling
BA, CityJet
BA
Ryanair
Ryanair
BA, Flybe
Aer Lingus
easyJet

2 Ancona

3 Bari

4 Bergamo

5 Bologna

Brindisi
6

7 Cagliari

8 Catania

9 Comiso

10 Florence

11

Genoa

12

13

Lamezia
Milan

13

Milan (continued)

14 Naples

15

Olbia

16

Palermo

17

18

19

20

Parma
Perugia
Pescara
Pisa

ORIGIN

OPERATOR

LDN City
LDN Gatwick
LDN Heathrow
LDN Luton
Manchester
Birmingham
Bristol
Dublin
East Midlands
Edinburgh
Glasgow
Leeds Bradford
Liverpool
LDN Gatwick
LDN Luton
LDN Stansted
Manchester
Newcastle
Bristol
Leeds Bradford
LDN Gatwick
LDN Heathrow
LDN Luton
Dublin
LDN Gatwick
LDN Stansted
LDN Stansted
LDN Stansted
LDN Stansted
Belfast
Bournemouth
Bristol
Cork
Dublin
East Midlands
Edinburgh
Glasgow Prestwick
Leeds Bradford
Liverpool
LDN Gatwick
LDN Heathrow
LDN Luton
LDN Stansted
Manchester
Newcastle

Air France, Alitalia


easyJet
Alitalia, BA
easyJet
BA, Flybe
Thomson
easyJet, Thomson
Aer Lingus
Thomson
easyJet
Thomson
Monarch*
easyJet
BA, easyJet, Meridiana, Thomson
easyJet, Monarch, Thomson***
easyJet
Monarch, Thomson
Thomson
easyJet
Jet2
easyJet, Meridiana
BA***
easyJet
Ryanair
easyJet
Ryanair
Ryanair
Ryanair
Ryanair
Jet2
Ryanair
easyJet
Ryanair
Ryanair
Jet2, Ryanair
Ryanair
Ryanair
Jet2, Ryanair
Ryanair
BA, easyJet
BA
easyJet
Ryanair
Jet2, easyJet****
Jet2

Every effort is made to ensure that the above flight information is correct, but do check specific flights before you plan your trip. Some routes may be seasonal.

94 ITALIA! January 2015

IT122.Gettingthere.sg4.indd 94

25/11/2014 12:09PM

13

24

26

17

11

25

10
20

21 Rome

22

23

Trapani
Trieste

24

Turin

25

26

Venice/Treviso

Verona

ORIGIN

OPERATOR

Belfast
Birmingham
Bristol
Dublin
East Midlands
Edinburgh
Glasgow
Glasgow Prestwick
Leeds Bradford
LDN City

Jet2**
Monarch
easyJet
Aer Lingus, Ryanair
Ryanair
Ryanair
Jet2
Ryanair
Jet2
Alitalia

LDN Gatwick

BA, easyJet, Norwegian,


Vueling***
Alitalia, BA
easyJet, Monarch
Ryanair
Jet2, Ryanair
Jet2
Ryanair
Ryanair
Ryanair
Monarch
Ryanair
BA, easyJet
Ryanair
Jet2
Monarch
Ryanair
Aer Lingus, Ryanair
Ryanair
Jet2
Jet2, Ryanair
BA
BA, easyJet, Monarch, Thomson
BA
easyJet
easyJet
Ryanair
easyJet, Jet2, Monarch, Thomson
Jet2
Aer Lingus
Jet2
Jet2
BA, easyJet, Monarch
Monarch
Flybe

LDN Heathrow
LDN Luton
LDN Stansted
Manchester
Newcastle
Manchester
Birmingham
LDN Stansted
Birmingham
Dublin
LDN Gatwick
LDN Stansted
Manchester
Birmingham
Bristol
Dublin
East Midlands
Edinburgh
Leeds Bradford
LDN City
LDN Gatwick
LDN Heathrow
LDN Luton
LDN Southend
LDN Stansted
Manchester
Newcastle
Dublin
Edinburgh
Leeds Bradford
LDN Gatwick
Manchester
Southampton

18

19

21

15

14

12

16

22

AIRLINES
Aer Lingus www.aerlingus.com
0870 876 5000
AirOne www.flyairone.com
+39 091 255 1047
Alitalia www.alitalia.com
0870 225 5000
bmibaby www.bmibaby.com
0905 828 2828
British Airways www.ba.com
0844 493 0787
CityJet www.cityjet.com
0871 666 5050
easyJet www.easyjet.co.uk
0905 821 0905
Flybe www.flybe.com
0871 700 2000
Jet2 www.jet2.com
0871 226 1737
Lufthansa www.lufthansa.com
0871 945 9747
Monarch Airlines
www.monarch.co.uk
0871 940 5040
Meridiana Airlines
www.meridiana.it
0871 222 9319
Norwegian Airlines
www.norwegian.com
0843 378 0888
Ryanair www.ryanair.com
0871 246 0000
Thomson Airlines
www.thomsonfly.com
0871 231 4787
Vueling www.vueling.com
0906 754 7541

AIRPORTS
Belfast 028 9448 4848
Birmingham 0844 576 6000
Bournemouth 01202 364000
Bristol 0871 334 4444
Cork +353 21 431 3131
Dublin +353 1 814 1111
East Midlands 0871 919 9000
Edinburgh 0844 481 8989
Glasgow 0844 481 5555
Glasgow Prestwick 0871 223 0700
Knock +353 94 936 8100
Leeds Bradford 0871 288 2288
Liverpool 0871 521 8484
LDN City 020 7646 0088
LDN Gatwick 0844 335 1802
LDN Heathrow 0844 335 1801
LDN Luton 01582 405100
LDN Southend 01702 538500
LDN Stansted 0844 335 1803
Manchester 0871 271 0711
Newcastle 0871 882 1121
Southampton 0844 481 7777
iStock photo

DESTINATION

23

Always check with your airline


before planning your flight.

Some of these operators may charge a premium rate for phone bookings. Check before you call.

* Starts March 2015, ** Starts April 2015, *** Starts May 2015, **** Starts June 2015

January 2015 ITALIA! 95

IT122.Gettingthere.sg4.indd 95

25/11/2014 12:10PM

MARKETPPLACE
MARKETPLACE
MARKETPLACE
MARKETPLACE

MARKETPLACE

MARKETPPLACE

PROPERTY

Properties
& holidays
in Le Marche
www.fireflyitaly.co.uk

TUSCAN HOUSE
FOR SALE
Recently modernised
5+ Bedrooms
2 Bathrooms
Central heating
Water & electricity
Beach 30 mins away
Pisa 40 km

120,000

FOR SALE 195,000


St Andrea di Suasa,
Le Marche

SERVICES

MARKETPLACE

MARKETPLACE

PROPERTY

Firefly

MARKETPLACE

MARKETPLACE

MARKETPLACE

16th Century house in a


small walled castello set
in beautiful countryside with both mountains and
the Adriatic easily accessible. 3 floors with a curved,
tiled staircase:kitchen/dining room, bathroom with
shower, store room; sitting-room with book alcove;
2 double bedrooms, one with partly exposed 16C
painting, separate toilet/sink. Central heating, fully
furnished and ready to go. A perfect Italian retreat.
elizabeth.pimm@btinternet.com Tel: 01223 306958

+39.0584388674
johndunhill5@yahoo.co.uk

Picene Homes
Registered Estate Agents
in Le Marche

Villas, Farmhouses,
Townhouses, Apartments
Specialists in Restoration Projects

To advertise
please contact Laura on
01225 489989

SARDINIAN
PROPERTY
FOR SALE

Fully furnished,
completely
renovated,
Period Cottage
Large courtyard with a covered
area for relaxing/dining etc
Brand new Febal designer kitchen
Superb mountain location with
spectacular views of Lake Omodeo
Lots of character
and all-modern
conveniences

130,000

07850 961785 flyluchair@aol.com

FOR SALE: in Caulonia


Marina, Calabria
Fully Furnished new
ground floor 1 Bed Apt
Aircon & pool, ex condition,
44,000 ONO for quick sale.
% 07715111276 for details

www.picenehomes.com
Tel: 0039 0734 711856

SERVICES
Buying a property in Puglia?
Visit us as casapuglia.com. We act
as your agent to help you find the right
property and secure it at the best price.

Law firm in Viareggio


(Lucca)

Offers concrete
help for all your
legal cases
(Estate law, Private law,
Inheritance Law, Lawsuits).

Owning a property in Puglia?


We give you the freedom when
youre away and look after your
property as if it was our own.

info@casapuglia.com
% 0039 333 878 6738
English speaking agency based in Fasano

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IT122.Classified.sg1.indd 96

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FOr Further inFOrmatiOn

www.youritalianlawyer.com

www.italytravelandlife.com

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26/11/2014 14:54PM

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HOLIDAYS

REMOVALS

REMOVALS TO ITALY

Holiday Villas, Apartments


and Hotels in Italy

Quality weekly service to all areas


Fully insured

+44(0)1223 460100

Highly recomended
(0044) 0 7803 014955 andrewwiffen@btinternet.com

www.essentialitaly.co.uk

www.italytravelandlife.com

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Storage available UK/Italy

Experience the Splendors of the Tuscany


Countryside This Fall!
Harvest Italia 2014: 7night/8day tour
to tour to Tuscany, Italy, October 28
November 4, 2014
Olive picking & visit to olive press
Chianti winery tour & cooking
demonstrations
Arezzo Antique Fair
Sightseeing in Florence, and more
Small tour size open to 6 people
www.spiritofitalytours.com
vicky@spiritofitalytours.com

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Lake Como

Visit our new website!


www.italytravelandlife.com

A warm friendly welcome awaits you at Villa Trs Jolie, a luxury bed
and breakfast on the shores of Lake Como.Make the most of your
holiday here with friendly advice, wellness, library, sun terrace and
whirlpool bath, walks, wine cellar and aperitivo time.
www.villatresjolie.com info@villatresjolie.com 0039 0344 94563.

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26/11/2014 14:55PM

THE FINAL WORD

Photography La Tagliata

My Italia!

Executive chef Antonio Tonelli tells about


La Tagliata, the exciting new Italian dining
concept in Londons Spitalfields
WHAT MADE YOU DECIDE TO COME AND WORK AT LA TAGLIATA?

Mainly it was the enthusiasm of Carlo Palumbo,


managing director of the restaurant, and the challenge
involved in creating a place like home, where you always go back for great taste and
a warm atmosphere.
WHERE DID YOU WORK BEFORE?

I was only 13 when I started working for a butcher in my hometown, Chieti, in


the Abruzzo region. Thats when I discovered my passion for food and decided
to become a chef. I worked for many years on the best cruise ships, travelling all
around the world and then went on to work as head chef for an Italian restaurant in
London, Al Volo, for six years.
TELL US ABOUT YOUR STUDIES AT THE VILLA SANTA MARIA

The school is well known as one of the best in Italy and thats where I got the
proper basic knowledge of cooking, on top of which Ive developed my own
personal style and creativity as a chef.
WHAT CAN DINERS EXPECT FROM LA TAGLIATA?

Authentic Italian food at its best we concentrate on a few dishes with the aim of
delivering the highest quality consistently. Our hero dish is the Tuscan steak dish of
the restaurant name. In a nutshell, we strive for simplicity, elegance and the Italian
passion for life and, of course, food.
WHAT IS UNIQUE ABOUT LA TAGLIATA?

We didnt want to be just another Italian restaurant in London serving the same
well-known dishes; instead our concept is based on offering something different and
authentic without confronting diners with an endless menu. Our aim is to wow our
customers with fuss-free and delicious food, executed with competence and passion.
WHAT IS THE BEST SEAT IN THE HOUSE IF WERE MAKING A BOOKING?

Personally, my favourite room is the Library, which is a very cosy, smart and
private space in the restaurant.
WHAT ARE THE ORIGINS OF THE DISH, LA TAGLIATA?

La Tagliata comes from Tuscany, where people have a real appetite for meat. Its a
straightforward dish, eaten in the past largely by families who used to get together
around the table having a slice each (tagliata means sliced) of a wonderfully
cooked steak, enjoyed at its very best with basic ingredients like tomatoes and
rocket. As always in the Italian tradition, food brings people together.
WE UNDERSTAND THAT YOUR WINE LIST IS ALSO VERY CAREFULLY SELECTED. CAN YOU TELL
US ABOUT YOUR CONTRIBUTIONS TO THIS?

As with most Italians I love Italian wine, and coming from the Abruzzo region
Ive suggested what I think is the one of the best producers of the famous
Montepulciano dAbruzzo: the Cataldi Madonna winery. The Malandrino our
selected wine is a perfect match to our menu.
www.la-tagliata.com

WHATS
YOUR
STORY?
If you want to
tell the story
of your
relationship
with Italy
whatever it
is get in
touch with us!
Send emails to
italia@anthempublishing.
com with the
subject line My
Italia and a brief
description of
your story.

From top
to bottom:
Antonio at
work; outside
the restaurant;
simple but
elegant dcor;
the signature
house dish

98 ITALIA! January 2015

IT122.MyItalia!.sg4.indd 98

25/11/2014 11:55AM

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