Travel + Leisure 2014 09 Asia

SOUTHEAST ASIA
EVOLVES WITH THE UNEXPECTED
SINGAPORE S$7.90 O HONG KONG HK$43

THAILAND THB175 O INDONESIA IDR50,000
MALAYSIA MYR17 O VIETNAM VND85,000
MACAU MOP44 O PHILIPPINES PHP240
BURMA MMK35 O CAMBODIA KHR22,000
BRUNEI BND7.90 O LAOS LAK52,000
SEPTEMBER 2014
A-LIST
TRAVEL
AGENTS
YOU NEED
TO KNOW
ASIAS BEST SPAS,

SHOPPING AND DINING.
SOUND GOOD?
A New National Landmark is Rising in Thailand

Spectacular Beyond Imagination
A new Thai legacy on the legendary Chao Phraya River

A mega project emerges as a beacon of a prosperous future
Prime location connecting to 40 prominent destinations along 10 km
of Bangkoks historic riverbank, including world heritage sites, commercial centers
and world-renown tourist attractions. Surrounded by over 50 luxury hotels and
200 upscale residential projects with convenient access to citywide
transportation options: Park&Ride, BTS, and over 650 daily boat shuttles
Tel.+662-118-2211
www.ICONSIAM.com
Prepare to witness 7 new wondrous world-class attractions

for the rst time in Thailand
/-)+",.%)! !2!(+,)!*0.!+*+2!.
50 rai on Charoen Nakorn Road
.*/!* !*0+.( (//!/0%*0%+*1.0%*#
a New Paradigm of Excellence with breathtaking
design and cutting-edge technology. The
st
unparalleled experience of 21 century lifestyle
River Park the Kingdoms largest riverside
promenade that will be the ultimate venue to host
year-round, world-class events and national activities
+.*! 3%0$ 66(%*#Multi-Media Water-andFire Feature that is the longest in Southeast Asia
for enthralling shows of water, re, light, and sound
2 Exclusive Piers for private yachts and shuttle boats,
* +*2!*%!*0!//0++0$!.,%!./(+*#0$!.%2!.
2 Most Prestige Waterfront Residences of Asia

designed to be among the world's best residential
properties with the Bangkok skyline rising above
the river. An Icon of the futuristic living quality
2 Unrivalled Glamorous Retail & Entertainment
Complexes - where the best of world-class brands
meet the best of Thailand's exquisite products:
500 shops and 100 of the nest restaurants from
around the world
State-of-the-Art, World-Class Auditorium, ready
to serve ASEAN Economic Community (AEC)
Seminars, International Trade Exhibitions and
cultural performances
The Museum of Treasures, featuring Thailand's
Heritage and Wisdom
Ready to enchant the world in 2017
Contents
Style Special
91
Shop Like a Local

Where to browse and
bargain in six of the worlds
most stylish citieswith
in-the-know tastemakers
as guides. EDITED BY
JACQU ELIN E GIFFOR D A N D
K ATIE JA M ES
Features
102 The Emerald Canopy
Enchanting Langkawi,
land of ying and
mischievous monkeys,
and million-year-old
mountains, pulls M ER R IT T
GU R LE Y in and sends her
skipping down the

evolutionary brick road.
PHOTOGR A PHED BY
T H A R AT HOR N SIT T HIT H A M .
GU IDE PAGE
113
114 Pure China Pingyao is

a time machine into the
Chinese past and
traditional Han culture.
BY JOSEPH GIOVA N N I N I .
PHOTOGR A PHED BY
T ON Y L AW
116 License to Heal

Finger-dancing facials,
yoga-fueled cleanses,
doctor-delivered
pedicures: J EN IN N E LEE ST . JOH N puts her health
and beauty in expert hands.
ILLUSTR ATED BY WASIN EE
CH A N TA KOR N . GU IDE
PAGE
121
122 The Way I Travel

Four trendsetters reveal
their travel essentials and
their favorite destinations.
BY A N DR E AS L ASZLO
KON R ATH . ST Y LED BY MIMI
LOMBA R DO
126 A World Apart

On a trip through remote
southern Ethiopia, GU Y
TR EBAY encounters the last
remaining tribes of the
Omo River Valleyand the
strange, powerful beauty
of the unknown.
PHOTOGR A PHED BY DAV ID
CH A NCELLOR . M A P A N D
GU IDE PAGE
134
INTERV IE WS BY J ERY L
BRU N N ER . PHOTOGR A PHED
T H A R AT H O R N S I T T H I T H A M
Ancient forestcapped mountains

coat Langkawi,
page 102.
T R AV E L A N D L E I S U R E A S I A .C O M
S E P T E M B E R 2 014
11
Contents
30
82
56
70
British Invasion
Hong Kongs new eats.
30
Easy Rider Martone

Cycling Co. bicycles.
46
Street Smart
Jakartas coolest area.
56
Loco for Coco

Private Maldivian stay.
Plus Where Michael Kors

goes to escape; autumn
culture preview; chefs
tables across Asia;
offbeat gin joints;
overcoming the fear of
ying; and more.
Trip Doctor
67
Travel Solutions
Why its worth using a
travel agent; touring
Asia in the green
season; and more.
70
Strategies The
A-List, our annual
compendium of the
top travel advisors.
82
Tech Our picks of the

best new headphones.
86
Deals T+L reader

specials.
Decoder
136 Our Denitive

Guide to Phuket
Last Look
142 Cambodia Apsara
dance renaissance.
In Every Issue
T +L DIGI TA L
14
E D I T O R S N O T E
16
CON T R IBU T OR S
18
I N B OX
20
On the Cover A catamaran

cruise in Langkawi, Malaysia.
Photographed by Tharathorn
Sitthitham. Styled by Tunvardee
Jutavarakul. Model: Nithiporn
Lertnitiwonsakul. Hair and
Make up: Witthaya Kaeoaim.
Photographers assistant:
Tanawat Asasutjarit. Swimsuit:
Katarina. Pants: Diane von
Furstenberg. Scarf: Bvlgari.
Sunglasses: Chanel.
136
12
S E P T E M B E R 2 014
C L O C K W I S E F R O M T O P L E F T: K AT E O W E N , C O U R T E S Y O F M A R T O N E C Y C L I N G C O . ; D A N N Y K I M ; S I M O N W AT S O N ; P O R N S A K N A N A K O R N ; C O U R T E S Y O F C O C O P R I V K U D A H I T H I
Radar
26
T+L Digital
#TLAsia
Expedia
surveyed
travelers in 24
countries about
the relationship
between their
beach vacations
and social media.
Heres what they
found.
instagram.com/travelandleisureasia
Available on IOS,
Android, Win 8
and Zinio Desktop Reader.
Get the September issue now.
Thais are the biggest

Instagram
fansand the most
likely to post selfies
(53 percent).
Visit Us
3
Facebook is the
most-used social
media route for
posting vacation
snaps, followed by
Instagram and
Twitter. Indians are
big on Facebook (83
percent).
Last-minute beach
deals influence
Thais the most (67
percent), followed by
South Koreans (65
percent) and
Japanese (64
percent).
A full half of
Singaporeans say
spa treatments are a
requisite of any
beach vacation.
14
S E P T E M B E R 2 014
Download Us
T+L Tablet Edition
1.
Indian travelers post

the most pictures per
week (50), followed
by Singaporeans
(37), Americans (35),
Hong Kongers (33),
Thais (32) and
Malaysians (29).
Hong Kongers are

most likely to post
beach photos online
to make their friends
jealous (39 percent),
though Thais arent
far behind (36
percent) in that
regard. The global
average is 18 percent.
Readers shared their favorite snapshots of

the season on Instagram.
Social Beaches
travelandleisureasia.com
This Months Top Lists

4 Hotels Where You Can
Live Like a King
10 Trips to Take Before

Youre Ten
31 Must-See Places in
Hong Kong
Follow Us
twitter.com/
travleisureasia
+
facebook.com/
travelleisureasia
+
pinterest.com/
travleisureasia
+
instagram.com/
travelandleisureasia
6.
f
1. Bali (@i a m m i k e ys a n c h e z ) 2. Bali (@ m e t m e t t i q u e )
3. Rawa Island, Malaysia (@ b e t z m m p)
4. Maldives (@ b e t z m m p) 5. Cambodia (@ m a r c a u x v i s u a l )
6. Sumilon Island, Philippines (@i a m m i k e ys a n c h e z )
Search Instagram for #TLAsia to see more photos and videos,

respectively. And be sure to tag your own favorite vacation scenes!
Contact Us
tleditor@
mediatransasia.com
Editors Note
September 2014
Where Were
Going
Taipei
Siem Reap
The Maldives
New Zealand
The T+L Code Travel + Leisure editors, writers and photographers are the industrys most reliable sources.
While on assignment, they travel incognito whenever possible and do not take press trips or accept free travel of any kind.
16
S E P T E M B E R 2 014
N A P AT R A V E E W AT
WHERE TO FIND ME
chrisk@mediatransasia.com
@CKucway on Twitter
oes anyone still use travel agents? The answer, a

resounding yes, might surprise you at rst but shouldnt.
In todays world where everything is specialized, youd be
mad to not seek the advice of an expert. Thats why we
include our A-List of the Top Travel Advisors (page 70) in
this months issue. These are the go-to gurus when planning your trip of a
lifetime: they help you avoid the usual pitfalls, can book you into sold-out
hotels and are in touch with any need-to-know locals. When we say
specialists, we dont just mean in the geographical sense. Theyre experts
when it comes to food-and-wine itineraries, adventure journeys,
affordable travel and cultural sojourns.
As au fait as this exclusive collection of travel advisors is, I wonder if
any one of them has ever had to deal with luxury monkeys. As features
editor Merritt Gurley and art director Wannapha Nawayon encountered
on assignment in Langkawi (The Emerald Canopy, page 102), the
islands mischievous macaques arent above raiding your minibar should
you fall for their charms and let them into your room. The best advice, of
course, is not to and, instead, simply enjoy the many more innocent lures
of this Malaysian getaway.
Elsewhere, this months issue looks like a microcosm of what those
specialized travel advisors would suggest for your next break. Shopping
in six different locales around the world takes center stage (Shop Like a
Local, page 91), while the new wave of healthy spa treatments hitting
Asia (License to Heal, page 116) might be the best therapy after your
retail excursion. Finally, directing you away from the norm like the best
travel advisor should is A World Apart (page 126), a journey to Ethiopia
that also begins with a little monkey business but then, as the title
suggests, veers down paths to rare adventures, a world where Instagram
and Twitter meld with African soothsayers; where youll learn as much
about yourself as you do about the environment you are visiting. Thats
when you know youve had a trip of a lifetime. C H R I ST OPH E R K UC WAY
Contributors
Simon N. Ostheimer
Writer
Decoder: Phuket
page 136
David Chancellor
Photographer
A World Apart
page 126
Molly Jong-Fast
Writer
Into Thin Air
page 48
The magic of Ethiopias Omo

Valley lies in... Just being there. Its an
extraordinary place, largely untouched
by the outside worldthough thats
changing at an alarming rate.
Unforgettable moment Finding
the Suri tribe in a lush valley near
the Omo River, before a storm.
Portraiture 101 To quote Eve Arnold,
If a photographer cares about the people
before the lens and is compassionate,
much is given. Dont miss... Watching
the sun rise and set on the same day.
Most useful local phrase? A smile.
Top advice for flying-averse

travelers Understanding I had the
problem made me feel better. Also,
do not underestimate the power of breath.
Bucket-list trip youre now able
to plan, having put aside your
fear of flying My mom went to Hong
Kong last year and said it was beyond
belief. I would love to go. I live in New York
City and Ive never traveled farther than
Greece. Carry-on essentials A book
and an iPad filled with movies and the
comedy series Broad City. The name
of the game is staying occupied.
C L O C K W I S E F R O M TO P : C O U R T E S Y O F S I M O N O S T H E I M E R ; J E R R Y B A U E R ; C O U R T E S Y O F DAV I D C H A N C E L L O R
How long have you lived on

Phuket? Three years. I moved
here to escape the hectic city life of
Bangkok. I somewhat succeeded.
Somewhat? Love it or hate it,
Phuket is changing. With new malls,
roads and condos, its on its way to
becoming Bangkok-on-the-Sea.
Where should we go drinking?
With two young children, I dont get out
as much as I used to. But when I do,
I enjoy the strong cocktails at
Wonderland. Best island thats not
your island Forget Phi-Phi, Samui
and Phangan. For a real taste of
Thailands old south, look no further
than the rural charms of Koh Yao Yai.
Inbox
The Return of Biarritz [July] proves that the best beach
destinations are those that reinvent themselves but
still maintain the spirit of the place.
Susan Coleman TEXAS
Backseat Driver
Indian Ocean Obsession
I remember the hidden area of Saigon

that you show from the Vietnam
Vespa Tour [Moveable Feasts,
April]! I was here for my first trip to
Vietnam in 2006.
Sariokoh Onuah
Ive always thought that the Maldives

[Isle of Inspiration, December 2013]
is a heaven on Earth! Its well known
for its crystal-clear waters and
beautiful scenery. I would love to be
there for a totally relaxing holiday. I
want to enjoy the waters, sand, sea
breeze, massages, food, drinks... It
would be awesome!
Jie Han Lee
ARIZONA
Curry Favor
When Im in Malaysia, I will definitely

try the Indian food in Penang [Hidden
India, April]. It looks good.
Taipei looks delish [Temples of

Taste, September 2013]. Beef Noodle
Soup. Yum.
Rich Young
Check out all that great-looking food

in Hoi An [Six Dishes, April]sweet
silky tofu, com ga, local noodles. No
wonder Anthony Bourdain
practically lives there.
Leo Vardar
BRITISH COLUMBIA
NEW YORK
Hand-Pulled Hunger
Choengmon Beach, Samui

Telephone: (66) 77 245 888
info@salasamui.com - www.salasamui.com
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VOL. 8, ISSUE 9
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Radar
News. Finds. Opinions. Obsessions.
r e s tau r a n t s
INDIAN
SUMMER
Designer Marie-Anne Oudejans

with her border collie, Aedo,
at Bar Palladio, in Jaipur, India.
P H OTOGR A P H ED BY A PA R N A JAYA K U M A R
Jaipur is already the Pink City,

so I wanted to do something
totally different, says Dutch
designer Marie-Anne Oudejans
of her latest creation, Bar
Palladio, at the Narain Niwas
Palace Hotel. Best known for
Tocca, her line of sari-fabric
dresses, Oudejans has turned
her eye to interiors, fashioning
an over-the-top space with an
opulence worthy of a maharajah:
Indian motifs (flowers; vines;
leaves), tented ceilings and
murals of exotic birds. At
secluded banquettes, stylish
locals mix with international
textile artists over plates of
penne allarrabbiata and basiltinged Ambassador martinis.
Oudejans designed the entire
Rajasthani fantasy, down to the
crystal stemware, block-printed
pillowseven the bar logo. If
you come to India, she says,
this is what you imagine it will
look like. bar-palladio.com.
kate betts
S E P T E M B E R 2 014
25
Radar
Jamie Oliver heats up Hong Kong.
Will Meyrick of Mama San fame.
Chef Gordon Ramsay.
BRITISH INVASION
Three British super chefs are stepping onto Hong Kongs dining scene,
adding star-studded restaurants that are sure to find a fanatic following.
The Brits are taking Hong
Kong by sweet and savory
storm. Roll out the red carpet
and get ready to make some
reservations, because U.K.export celebrity chefs Jamie
Oliver, Gordon Ramsay and
Will Meyrick have nally
opened eateries in this
happening harbor city.
Meyrick, whose explosive
Asian fusion restaurant has
been a culinary mainstay of
Bali since its 2010 debut, has
opened his second Mama
San (1F, 46 Wyndham St.;
852/2881-8901; dining
concepts.com; dinner for two
HK$700) in Central. The hip
dcorthink plush brown
leather banquettes
26
S E P T E M B E R 2 014
juxtaposed against scarlet

lamp shadeshas drawn the
citys trendy crowd, but its
the food that has them
coming back. Every dish
packs a punch, from the soft
shell crab rujak salad with
green mango, rose apple,
mint, peanuts, sesame seed
and tamarind chili sauce to
the sublimely refreshing
lemongrass panacotta with
cucumber lime jelly and
citrus lemon basil sorbet.
Jamie Oliver, currently
Britains richest chef with a
net worth of 240 million,
opened Jamies Italian (2F
Soundwill Plaza IIMidtown,
1 Tang Lung St.; 852/39582222; jamieoliver.com; dinner
for two HK$600), in

Causeway Bay in July. As a
nod to the neighborhoods
days as a shing village,
theres a shipping container
in the open kitchen and a
sliding ship ladder at the
antipasti bar. Dishes range
from bar bites like the fried
three-cheese gnocchi, to the
made-to-share meat plank
with Levoni ham, to the
vongole taglioni, a toothsome
pasta that showcases
Olivers passion for classic
Italian fare.
Hot on the heels of
Oliver, his rival and
long-time adversary, Gordon
Ramsay is launching his
rst restaurant in Asia,
Bread Street Kitchen
(MF, LKF Hotel, 33

Wyndham St., Central;
gordonramsay.com; menu
not released as of press time)
in Hong Kong this month at
the Lan Kwai Fong Hotel.
Based on Ramsays winning
concept in London, the
restaurants must-try plates
include a decadentis there
any other kind?full
English breakfast, and
ricotta hot cakes with
banana and honeycomb
butter to start the day off
right, while its welcoming
warehouse-style, decked out
in mismatched furniture,
reects the no-fuss British
menu.HELEN DALLEY
C L O C K W I S E F R O M L E F T: C O U R T E S Y O F M A M A S A N ; C O U R T E S Y O F J A M I E S I TA L I A N ; C O U R T E S Y O F G O R D O N R A M S AY
chefs
Radar
r ec o n
THE LATEST
NEED-TO-KNOW
OPENINGS
b o o ks
LART DE VIVRE
Xavier Girards The French Riviera in
the 1920s (Assouline) captures that
indelibly glamorous era, a time and
place where Marlene Dietrich
sunbathed at the Eden Roc, Jean
Cocteau lived at Coco Chanels villa,
and Gerald and Sara Murphy threw
ftes in Cap dAntibes for Man Ray,
John Dos Passos, and Scott and
Zelda Fitzgerald. Characters became
legends, excess was in vogue and a
destination was born. nate storey
in an Art Deco
building in Mayfair.
The room to book:
ROOM, an
inhabitable
sculpture by artist
Antony Gormley.
Hotels First in a
+ Raffles Istanbul
series of boutique
properties planned
along the ancient
Tea Horse Road,
(raffles.com; doubles
from 385) takes its
place on the citys
booming skyline as
part of the cuttingedge Zorlu Center,
in Beikta.
Highlights: one of
the citys largest
spas and butler
service in every
room. + Namibias
far north now feels a
little less remote,
thanks to
LUX* Lijiang
(luxresorts.com;
doubles from
RMB1,382), flaunts
30 gold-toned rooms
inspired by the Naxi
ethnic group.
+ Chris Corbin and
Jeremy King, the
duo behind
Londons everpacked Wolseley
and Delaunay
restaurants, have
opened their first
hotel, the Beaumont
(thebeaumont.com;
doubles from 395),
Hoanib Skeleton
Coast Camp
(wilderness-safaris.
com; from ZAR5,556
per person); eight
tents have decks for
viewing the deserts
lunar plains and

roaming elephants.
+ Travelers passing
through Tokyos
inner-city Haneda
Airport can check
into THE Haneda
(rph-the.co.jp;
doubles from 1,800),
which is affixed to
the international
terminal, bypassing
the hassle of
immigration.
+ Marriott chose
Milans Malpensa
airport as the first
location of its new
millennial-focused
brand, Moxy Hotels
(moxy-hotels.
marriott.com;
doubles from 89).
How are they
drawing next-gen
travelers? Free
Wi-Fi, self-serve
snack food and hot
coffee, and a casual
lobby lounge.
t ypography
WHAT YOUR INSTAGRAM FILTER SAYS ABOUT YOU

A picture may speak a thousand words, but a filter is a look into a travelers
soul. Heres what youre projecting with your choice of special effects.
Inkwell
Kelvin
Sutro
[No Filter]
Earlybird
Inkwell
Kelvin
Sutro
[No Filter]
To blazes with hardedged modernity! You

yearn for the softly faded
era of steamer trunks and
hot-air balloons. Jules
Verne is your Virgil. Your
ideal evening starts with
a Delmonico steak and an
oyster roast, and ends at
the kinetoscope. In your
luggage: a hoopskirt and
a stovepipe hat.
Ahh, you swoony love

child of Ansel Adams and
Henri Cartier-Bresson....
Dont we all want to live
in Paris between the
wars? Your photos dont
capture lightthey
capture truth. Color? A
cloying distraction. Not
only do you shoot in black
and white, you only wear
black and white.
You dont go anywhere

unless its 25 degrees,
sunny and within earshot
of the ocean. In search of
the perfect wave isnt
just a credo, its your torso
tattoo. Clouds dont exist
in your world. Neither
does tartar. Every
summer is endless; every
barrel is epic; every hour
is golden.
Youre drawn to the

darkness at the edge of
town. Bad hotel lighting
never bothers you; hell,
you travel with your own
blackout shades. The
message on your door is
the message on your
heart: DO NOT DISTURB.
Next vacation: Nome. Or
outer Minsk. In winter.
Purity is your doctrine.

Your body is a temple,
your art needs no
adornment, your eye
needs no doctoring. (You
probably dont eat salt,
either.) Why are you even
on Instagram, anyway?
#timetostartatumblr.
N . S .
THE PERSONA
28
S E P T E M B E R 2 014
D A V I D A L E X A N D E R A R N O L D . I L L U S T R AT I O N B Y P E T E R A R K L E
THE FILTER
Earlybird
Shelves lined with gin

at Ping Pong 129.
Below: A G & Tea at
G&T Cocktail Bar.
a f t e r da r k
OF ALL THE GIN JOINTS
F R O M T O P : C O U R T E S Y O F P I N G P O N G 1 2 9 ; C O U R T E S Y O F G &T C O C K TA I L B A R 2
These four bars, with their wide selection of juniper-rich

highball cocktails, have us convinced theres no finer summer
drink than the classic gin and tonic. By Diana Hubbell
Keep your vodka-spiked kale
smoothies and your elderower-tinis:
the old-fashioned G&T is in the midst
of a comeback. Thats not to say it ever
really went out of style. Its just that
for a while it was relegated to the back
of menus alongside Ms. Bradshaws
cosmopolitans and Mr. Bonds vesper
martinis. At newcomer Ping Pong
129 (pingpong129.com; drinks for two
HK$160), a refurbished ping pong hall
in Hong Kongs achingly hip Sai Ying
Pun, its the raison dtre. No fewer
than 50 gins grace the shelves,
ranging from traditional to more
inventive, such as the Gin Mare,
infused with olives, rosemary, thyme
and basil. Meanwhile just over in
Central, the aptly named G&T
Cocktail Bar (gntbar.com.hk; drinks
for two HK$125) boasts a whopping 80
gins from seven countries. Their
namesake tipple is front and center,
but there are also clever
reinterpretations like the G & Tea: gin
and oolong served in a chilled pot.
One of Seouls newest and quirkiest
gin bars is hiding inside a fully
functioning orist shop. Flower Gin
(557 Itaewon-dong, Yongsan-gu;
82-2/412-1983; drinks for two W16,000)
will happily serve rose-perfumed

Hendricks with a bouquet of actual
roses. In Singapore, the two-faced
Jekyll & Hyde (49 Tras St.; 65/62223349; 49tras.st; drinks for two S$40) is
a demure nail salon by day and a
dashing gin bar by night, with rare
nds such as the German-distilled
Monkey 47 making cocktail cameos.
Old jazz favorites play in the
background, proving once again that
classics are classics for a reason.
Radar
spotlight
Lorenzo Martone,
founder of Martone
Cycling Co.
(martonecycling.com), is
no stranger to cuttingedge design. His range of
lightweight, bold-colored
bicycles has already won
fans such as Karl
Lagerfeld and Oliver
Theyskens, and now hes
celebrating the glories of
globetrotting with a sleek
new gilded bike model.
We decided on golden
tones as a reminder of
how privileged we all are
to have access to the life
we do, Martone says. And
what a life it is: in just two
years, his company has
ballooned from a passion
project to a global
business, with retailers in
10 countries, a number
that will double by the
30
S E P T E M B E R 2 014
end of the year. Yet the

idea was born rather
humbly. I was
intimidated by the bike
industry because it all
looked so professional
and Im not a racer,
Martone says. I love just
biking around the city
from A to B. His solution
was to create a fashiondriven model that would
look as sharp on the
streets as it would in his
West Village apartment in
New York. It needed to
look good in my home
since I had to store the
bike in my living room,
he says. If you are going
to be looking at it all the
time it should look great;
it should look like a
design piece, like a
sculpture. So he came up
with a graphic eye-
catching frame with an

iconic red chain and a
basket built into the
handlebars, perfect for
the daily chores of city
life. He liked the result so
much he just kept
churning them out. One
bike became five and five
became 750, and suddenly
I had a company, he says.
The inspiration behind
Martone Cycling comes

from the founders love of
exploration. Riding a
bicycle is the best way to
get acquainted with local
life. It means connecting
truly with the
environment youre in,
he says. I owe everything
I know to travel. The food,
smells and contrasting
architecture Ive
experienced shine
through in my designs
no wonder his favorite
cycling cities are London
and Paris. The only real
question for Martone is:
What bike are you going
to wear today?
P H OTOG R A P H ED BY P E T ER YA N G
K AT E O W E N , C O U R T E S Y O F M A R T O N E C Y C L I N G C O .
EASY RIDER
In Bangkok, the Embassy

Diplomat Screens
(embassycineplex.com) opened
this summer, with a VIP
screening room where guests
can relax on three-seat sofas,
homey daybeds or uffy
couches, with private mini bars
on hand and food from Dean &
Deluca and The Oriental Shop.
In Singapore, WE Cinemas
(wecinemas.com.sg) is opening
this fall in the 321 Clementi
complex, with 10 high-tech
digital halls. Over in the United
States, a string of Golden Era
theaters in downtown Los
Angeles are taking a second
bow. The Ace Hotel acquired
the Gothic-Deco United Artists
Theater, renaming it the
Theatre at Ace Hotel
(acehotel.com) and two blocks
north, a thorough renovation
of the Globe Theatre
(globetheatre-la.com) is giving
new life to the Beaux-Arts
vaudeville palace as a venue for
everything from concerts to
lm premieres.
COLLEEN CLARK
The Theatre
at Ace Hotel, in
Los Angeles.
cinema
CURTAIN CALL
From grand movie palaces to

intimate screening rooms, luxury
cinema is making a come back.
AUTUMN
CULTURE
PREVIEW
t h e at e r
STARS ON STAGE
london Following
acclaimed performances
in Chekhovs Three
Sisters and Pinters
Betrayal, Kristin Scott
Thomas returns to the
Old Vic in Sophocles
Electra. Ian Rickson
directs the Greek tragedy
from a new adaptation
by Frank McGuinness.
Oct. 1Dec. 20;
oldvictheatre.com.
+ King Charles III, Mike
Bartletts outrageous
chronicle of life after
the reign of Queen
Elizabeth II, stars

Tim Pigott-Smith in
the career-defining role
of a ruler-in-waiting
who finally ascends the
throne. The earlier,
sold-out production
will play at Wyndhams
Theatre for a limited run.
Sept. 11Nov. 29;
delfontmackintosh.co.uk.
new york city
The Curious Incident
of the Dog in the
Night-Time, about an
autistic teenagers search
Clockwise from top: Glenn Close, Kristin Scott

Thomas, Maggie Gyllenhaal.
32
S E P T E M B E R 2 014
for truth, is as inventive

in its storytelling as it is
dazzling in its multimedia
execution, as staged by
Marianne Elliot (War
Horse). Opens Oct. 5;
Barrymore Theatre;
telecharge.com. + Maggie
Gyllenhaal and Ewan
McGregor make their
Broadway debuts in
Tom Stoppards The Real
Thing, a tour-de-force
drama about the
complexity of marriage
and the igniting force of
passion. Opens Oct. 30;
American Airlines
Theatre; roundabout
theatre.org.
+ Glenn Close, John

Lithgow and Martha
Plimpton are members
of a privileged but
dysfunctional family
in A Delicate Balance,
Edward Albees unsettling
comedy. Opens Nov. 20;
John Golden Theatre;
telecharge.com.
+ Bradley Cooper plays
the title role in The
Elephant Man, based
on the true story of Joseph
Merricks path from
freak-show act to darling
of Victorian society. Opens
Dec. 7; Booth Theatre;
telecharge.com.
bill rosenfield
F R O M T O P : S P E N C E R L O W E L L ; S T E V E G R A N I T Z /G E T T Y I M A G E S ; G E O R G E P I M E N T E L / G E T T Y I M A G E S ; J A M I E M C C A R T H Y/ G E T T Y I M A G E S
Radar
music
Clockenflap
Festival, in
Hong Kong.
HEAR, HEAR: THE BEST OF

FALL FESTIVALS
S H E A S TA N L E Y
australia
A raucous traveling act,
Stereosonic stops in Melbourne,
Perth, Sydney, Adelaide and
Brisbane over 5 days of musical
madness from a rotating line up of
more than 60 acts, including
Skrillex, Carl Cox and Porter
Robinson, to name a few. (Nov.
29Dec. 7; stereosonic.com.au).
hong kong
An outdoor music festival set in
the middle of Hong Kongs West
Kowloon Cultural District,
Clockenflap brings together a
line up of world-class acts. Last
year 30,000 people showed up to
watch Franz Fernand, Metric and
Four Tet headline, and 45,000 are
predicted for this year. (Nov. 28
30; clockenflap.com).
india
Held in the beach town of Goa
each year, the three-day
Sunburn electronic music festival
offers a well-rounded variety of
international DJs like Swedish
House Mafia, Avicii and Armin
Van Buuren; live musical acts;
and high octane vacation
activities like bungee jumping,
volleyball and zorbing, the sport of
rolling downhill in a plastic ball.
(Dec. 2729; sunburn.in)
japan
Ultra is roving from its traditional
home in Miami to make its
much-anticipated Japan debut
this September. The party is set to
be epic, held in a custom-made
event space on Odaiba and
featuring some of the worlds
hottest DJsthink: Hardwell,

Fedde Le Grand and Afrojack.
(Sept. 2728; ultrajapan.com)
malaysia
Founded in 2002, Urbanscape is
Malaysias longest running
creative festival. This years

program is still pending, but after
2013s bash, with performances
from Two Door Cinema Club and
Dangerdisko, we know it will be a
stellar show. (late November;
urbanscapes.com.my)
Choreographer Liam
Scarlett leads a
rehearsal at the Royal
Ballet, in London.
Radar
art
da n c e
ON POINT WITH
LIAM SCARLETT
Boyish British choreographer Liam
Scarlett created Consolations and
Liebestraum, his first major work
and sensational hitfor Londons Royal
Ballet in 2009. Now the 27-year-old serves
as the companys artist-in-residence,
and this fall mounts world premieres
for New Yorks American Ballet Theatre
as well as the Royal. He spoke to T+L
about the new ballets and his cultural
agenda for the season.
Tell us about your first piece
for American Ballet Theatre.
Its a chamber piece with four couples,
debuting on the opening night of
ABTs 75th anniversary season. Im
looking forward to working with
the exceptional Marcelo Gomes and
the talented Misty Copeland and
Sarah Lane (Oct. 22Nov. 2; abt.org).
Why have you chosen to set
a ballet to Leonard Bernsteins
Symphony No. 2, The Age of
Anxiety, for the Royal Ballet?
Because its difficult, and I feel I can
take risks with my home company.
Bernstein was inspired by W. H. Audens
epic wartime poem, in which four
a r c h i t ec t u r e
NEW BUILDS
34
S E P T E M B E R 2 014
AUTUMN
CULTURE
troubled strangers interact in a New

York City bar (Nov. 717; roh.org.uk).
PREVIEW
What cultural events will you

try to get to in New York?
I tend to arrive uninformed, open a
guide and see what looks interesting.
Lucky for me, the season includes the
52nd New York Film Festival (Sept.
26Oct. 12; filmlinc.com), where I can see
whats fresh and innovative in world
cinema. The 11th annual Fall for Dance
Festival (Oct. 819; nycitycenter.org)
provides a smorgasbord of 24
first-rate international
companies and individual
artists for only US$15 a
ticketamazing!
What would you
recommend in London?
As a bit of a traditionalist, Im
interested in historical
adaptations, especially the
Royal Shakespeare Companys
stage dramatizations of Hilary
Mantels Tudor novels, Wolf Hall and
Bring Up the Bodies, now playing in
London, which are thrilling (through
Oct. 4; rsc.org.uk). PETER WEBSTER
Japanese architect Shigeru Ban,

winner of this years Pritzker
Architecture Prize, imbued the new
Aspen Art Museum with his
trademark ingenuity, including a
striking basket-weave wood faade
and a rooftop sculpture garden.
aspenartmuseum.org. The
Inbursa Aquarium, in Mexico City,
is Latin Americas largest, with four
hong kong The work

of Hosook Kang, Hassan
Massoudy and Golnaz
Fathi, three artists who
blend the visual traditions
of East and West, will be on
display in Marked:
Contemporary Takes on
Mark-Making at the
Sundaram Tagore Hong
Kong. Sept. 11Oct. 11;
sundaramtagore.com.
new york city
Cubism: The Leonard A.
Lauder Collection, at the
Metropolitan Museum
of Art, celebrates the gift of
an unparalleled collection
of works by Picasso,
Braque, Juan Gris and
Fernand Lger, each of
whom propelled Modernism
in unique directions.
Oct. 20Feb. 16;
metmuseum.org.
singapore Rare
porcelain pieces
from around the
world are being
showcased at the
Asian Civilisations
Museum in China
Mania! The Global

Passion for Porcelain,
800-1900. Through
Dec. 14; acm.org.sg.
LESLIE CAMHI
AND DAVID NGO
subterranean levels housing more

than 5,000 species. The structure
by Fernando Romero abuts the
architects Museo Soumaya and
David Chipperfields Museo Jumex.
Plaza Carso.
Opera was invented
in Florence, but only now does the
city have a venue dedicated to the
genre. The new marble-clad Opera
di Firenze complex has a
state-of-the-art theater and concert

hall, close to the centro storico.
operadifirenze.it.
In Rio de
Janeiros beachfront neighborhood
Barra de Tijuca, Christian de
Portzamparcs sweeping Cidade
das Artes brings together an art
gallery, chamber-music hall and
1,250-seat auditorium. cidadedas
artes.org. raul barreneche
C L O C K W I S E F R O M T O P L E F T: A N D R E J U S P E N S K I ; C O U R T E S Y O F A S I A N C I V I L I S AT I O N M U E S U M 2 ; P I E T R O P A O L I N I ; C O U R T E S Y O F T H E A S P E N A R T M U S E U M ; C O U R T E S Y O F C H R I S T I A N D E P O R T Z A M P A R C
SHOWS TO SEE
Radar
m y t ow n
VIENNA, OLD AND NEW

The city of waltz and opera also shimmers with
cultural innovation. Christoph Thun-Hohenstein,
head of the Museum of Applied Art, and his art
historian wife, Karin, take in its highlights.
Eat We go to Caf
Ansari (cafeansari.at;
set lunch for two 19)
time and again,
Christoph says of the
new Georgian spot
in Leopoldstadt, a
historically Jewish
neighborhood thats
now Viennas answer
to all things hip. I order
the Lammkibbe (lamb
meatballs with peppers
and tahini). Karin
loves to sit on the
cobblestoned terrace
it transports you to
another century.
+ Nearby, the couple
enjoy the Wiener
schnitzel at former
gasthaus Skopik &
Lohn (skopikundlohn.
at; lunch for two 52)
nearly as much as the
mind-bending ceiling
mural by Otto Zitko.
Its a cool hangout for
the local creative
crowd, Christoph says.
Shop The best place
for gift-shopping is
the Confiserie
Altmann & Khne
(altmann-kuehne.at), in
Innerstadt, Christoph
says. Ask for the small
chocolatestheyre
packed in the most
beautiful boxes, with
patterns from the
Wiener Werksttte.
+ He gets his accessories
down the street at Knize
(knize.at), a heritage
mens-wear shop thats
been making suits since
1858. Im too tall for

the jackets, Christoph,
who is 202 centimeters,
says with a laugh, but I
love the scarves.
+ For women, Karin
recommends Song
(song.at), a fashionforward boutique that
carries labels such as
Dries Van Noten and
Olympia Le-Tan.
Do For Christoph and
Karin, weekends are
made for long walks.
One of their favorites:
a stroll to a traditional
Austrian Heurige
(wine tavern) called
Dorfschenke Neustift
(dorfschenke-neustift.
at), on the tourist-light
northern edge of the
city. The road isnt big
enough for the buses,
Karin says. + Christoph
is a devotee of the
Vienna State Opera
(wiener-staatsoper.at).
Every night there are
over 500 standing-room
tickets available, often
for only three euros.
GISELA WILLIAMS
Christoph and Karin ThunHohenstein on a settee

by Franz West at Viennas
Museum of Applied Art.
36
S E P T E M B E R 2 014
P HOTOG R A P H ED BY DA NIEL G EBH A R T DE KOEK KOEK
Radar
Pop-Up Charcuterie
Room at the Four
Seasons Bangkok.
dining
STAYING, BY POPULAR DEMAND

Seasons Bangkok
(fourseasons.com;
66-2/126-8866, ext. 1249),
a 20-seat wine and
Pop-Up Charcuterie
Room that was
scheduled to operate for

three months only now
has an extended run
thanks to the high

demand from its
devoted following.
Aside from the everchanging collection of
jamn, chorizo,
manchego and Pinots,
this little bit of
Barcelona offers a rare
commodity in Bangkok:
an outdoor deck
overlooking a tree-lined
street. Theres also a
strong French and
Italian inuence, with a
b e au t y
SWISS
ADVANTAGE
T+L staff members latest

obsession: Switzerlands
heritage skin-care brands
and their new products for fall.
healthy selection of
peppers stuffed with
ricotta, Sicilian olives,
herb-encrusted
sausages and goat
cheeses. The menu is
always evolving, so
making repeat visits is a
must before the venue
morphs into something
new. No date on that
just yet. Open Monday
to Saturday, 5 p.m. to
10:30 p.m.; dinner for
two Bt3,000.
1 My weekend bag is lled with Karin Herzogs

travel-size Seven Creams of the Week (karin
herzog.com; US$100). The active oxygen-infused
Essential Mask gives me a super-hydrated glow.
katie james
2 Valmont Elixir des Glaciers Eau Micellaire
Prcieuse (boutiquevalmont.com; US$150) is a
genius all-in-one cleanser, with rose-petal extract
and glacial water. No rinsing is required, so I use
it to remove makeup before hitting the gym.
jacqui gifford
3 Made with apple stem cells, rich in
phytonutrients and proteins, Lather Swiss Apple
Wrinkle Remedy (b-glowing.com; US$62) is
lightweight and improves my ne lines.
mimi lombardo
4 I love the cool gel formula and the understated
aroma of La Prairie Cellular Eye Essence
Platinum Rare (laprairie.com; US$365). Aer a
poor nights sleep, the serum brightens the eyes.
sandra garcia
C L O C K W I S E F R O M T O P : C H R I S T O P H E R K U C W AY; K A R I N H E R Z O G ;
C O U R T E S Y O F V A L M O N T; C O U R T E S Y O F L AT H E R ; C O U R T E S Y O F L A P R A I R I E
By their nature, pop ups

are eeting and
ephemeral beings. But
what happens when a
pop up is too popular to
shut down? At the Four
MacPherson
outside his new
Ludlow Hotel.
the insider
HOW TO MAKE A HOTEL COOL

BY SEAN MACPHERSON
New York City hotelier Sean MacPherson

owns, among others, the Bowery and
Maritime. His latest, the Ludlow Hotel, on the
Lower East Side, opened in June.
JAKE CHESSUM
The best hotels have human

ngerprints. I dont need to like the
persons style, but I want to feel their
presence and a sense of place. The Grand
Htel Nord-Pinus (nord-pinus.com;
doubles from 185), in Arles, France, is so
French, but it also has a strong Spanish
influence that reflects the owners taste:
vintage furniture, bullfighting memorabilia
and Peter Lindbergh photographs. At the
Saint Cecilia (hotelsaintcecilia.com;
doubles from US$370), in Austin, Texas, you
feel Liz Lamberts heartbeat throughout the
hotel. The mini-bar, for example, has
personal choices such as salted-caramel
galettes, prosciutto and Mexican Coke.
A hotel should tell a story. Bemelmans
at the Carlyle (rosewoodhotels.com) in
New York is the benchmark for all hotel bars
because it has that historywith Ludwig
Bemelmanss murals and the Kennedys
drinking thereyet its still very much alive
with music and performers. Its not a bar
that could ever exist in, say, L.A. My newest

property, the Ludlow Hotel (ludlowhotel.
com; doubles from US$195), is inspired by my
time in New York during the 1980s. There
was this tremendous art scene, with Warhol
and Jean-Michel Basquiat running around.
And they werent mythological characters
like Hemingway and Picasso in Paris; this
was in our lifetime. Plus the music: like the
Ramones, Blondie and early hip-hop. There
was a vitality to the city and you could still
get an apartment for US$400 a month. So I
gave the Ludlow that feeling of loft living,
not in a literal way but the sensation of it. I
imagined a kid that may be down and out,
living on the Lower East Side, but he had
some nice furniture his parents gave him
and a cool place, so it was going to be okay.
Dont state whats already implied. Let
the product speak for itself. If you allow the
guest to interpret the hotel, then it will be
exactly what they want it to be. Give room
for people to make it their own. At some
hotels, the first thing they tell you is how
cool they are. Thats like someone telling
you theyre smart. Cool is almost invisible
when its done well. You dont even notice
why; you just feel it. As told to Sara Bliss
Radar
goods
HIDE N CHIC
Add a touch of
texture to any fall look.
By Mimi Lombardo
1 Calf-hair-and-leather
pump, $425, by Vince.
2 Suede-trimmed calf-hair
clutch, $750, Nina Griscom
for GiGi New York.
3 Shearling-lined bootie,
$395, Belle by Sigerson
Morrison. 4 Shearling-andleather bag, $348, Diane von
Furstenberg. 5 Calf-hair
slip-on, $98, C. Wonder.
6 Leather-trimmed
shearling messenger bag,
$1,300, Coach.
4
5
40
S E P T E M B E R 2 014
Prices are listed in US dollars.
P H OTOGR A P H ED BY YASU + JU N KO
MARK ET EDITOR: COURTNE Y K ENEFICK
Radar
Clockwise from left: Shanghai, old and new; outside Black Pepper;
traditional dishes with flair at Shang-Xi; old collectibles at a local
market; zipping around the French Concession in a sidecar.
weekender
SHANGHAIS TWO SIDES
There are hidden corners of this thrumming

Chinese metropolis where past and future quietly
collide. Story and photos by Christopher Kucway
Eat At Shang-Xi (86-21/20368888; lunch for two RMB436) in
the Four Seasons Pudong is a
taste of traditional China with set
menus showcasing the best teas in
town. Okay, so the sauted beef
happens to be melt-in-yourmouth wagyu and the steamed
pork dumplings come with a hairy
crab cream, but its these off-script
touches that make lunch all the
more unforgettable.
Among the small collection of
restaurants and bars that has
sprouted up in a restored Chinese
courtyard, Black Pepper (89
Taixing Lu; 86-138/1833-6837; set
meal RMB228 per person) is a
favorite for inexpensive Turkish
fare and lling meals. Broken
down into hot and cold starters,
grills and desserts, expect haydari
(homemade yogurt), a sea prawn
casserole, izgara kfte (grilled
meatballs), and tavuk gs, a
blended chicken breast dessert
that has to be tasted to be believed.
Do Is there any better way to tour
Shanghais French Concession
than from the sidecar of a restored
Chinese army motorcycle?
42
S E P T E M B E R 2 014
Tooling around the tree-lined,

history-laden streets on a sunny
autumn day for a few hours with
Insiders Experience (86-138/
1761-6975; insidersexperience.com;
tours from RMB1,700), a typical
stop is the pine- and maple-dotted
gardens of Yongfoo Elite
(86-21/5466-2727; yongfooelite.
com; set dinners RMB780), a
private club with a throwback feel
that conjures the Shanghai of
decades past. While in the sidecar,
make time for a chat with owner
Thomas Chabrieres, who is a font
of inside information when it
comes to lesser-known addresses.
If youd rather amble about on
your own two feet, then touring
some of the last remaining
shikumen in the city is, well, up
your alley. Wedged between Black
Pepper and the Four Seasons
Puxi (86-21/6256-8888; tours from
RMB2,400) is a cluster of streets
that date back to the 1920s, but
youll need the assistance of a
resident to nd your way around.
Thats where photographer Wang
Gangfeng enters the frame. This is
his hood and he leads tours
through these time-worn buildings
THE CITY
IN A GLANCE
Getting Around
It is easiest to take taxis
but have your destination
written down in Chinese
and always ask for a
receipt or fa piao.
China in Focus
After your tour of the
shikumen, stop in at
Wang Gangfengs studio
(gangofonephotography.
com) to see his
often- comical work
from around China shot
during the past 30 years.
See the Light
Dont miss a glimpse of
Shanghais creative side
at DAFFDesign, Art
and Fashion Faira
show of pop-up shops,
art installations, craft
food and drink, and live
music. The next fair is
October 25-26 (daff.
tictcreative.com).
to which few others have access.

The area just screams black-andwhite photography and, in
fast-changing Shanghai, better
visit now. Some of the narrow
lanes are protected but, when
asked, Wang admits, Shanghai
people dont really care about
these buildings.
Stay A standout in Shanghais
forest of a modern skyline, the
Four Seasons Pudong
(fourseasons.com; rooms from
RMB2,350) is an escape, both in
that you could easily stay put in
the hotel all weekendstate-ofthe-art spa, excellent dining and
well thought-out guestrooms
and as a launch pad for exploring
the older charms of Puxi.
SPECIAL ADVERTISING SECTION
An All-in-One Getaway
Call it a destination within a destination.
Conrad Macao, Cotai Central, only minutes from the
citys international airport, is home to everything you
want, and its all under one roof. It really is its own city,
an integrated resort that will leave you wondering
when you can return as soon as you arrive.
GUESTROOMS
Home to 636 guestrooms and 24-hour concierge services, Conrad
Macao still manages to key on the little things to make your stay
VSHFLDO(DFKJXHVWURRPLVWWHGZLWKDQ03SOD\HUDQGL3RGL3DG
docking station as well as premium bathroom amenities by
Aromatherapy Associates. But this is no standard hotel: as an
ultimate convenience, theres also guaranteed early check-in, with
advance notice and space being available from the previous night.
DINING
Dont forget youre in Asia, where food tops most lists. Conrad
Macao is home to a global cross-section of menus. Dynasty 8
evokes the charm of old-world China, one that includes high-end
Chinese cuisine. Each of the eight private dining rooms is styled
after a dynasty so be sure not to miss the signature fresh king
SUDZQVZLWKFDYLDUDQGGHHSIULHGFUDEFODZZLWKYHVSLFHV$W
Grand Orbit, diners embark upon a culinary journey around the
JOREHHQMR\LQJ3RUWXJXHVHLQXHQFHG0DFDQHVHFXLVLQH&UHROH
inspired dishes from Louisiana and even Brazilian Churasco. Theres

also Italian, Thai, Indian and Malaysian dishes, so you simply cannot
go wrong. In the lobby is The Lounge, home to Asian or Western
breakfasts, afternoon tea and, come nightfall, signature cocktails.
SHOPPING
Another favourite pastime in Asia is shopping, which at Conrad
Macao is never far away. With over 100 retail outlets, Shoppes at
Cotai Central is paradise for shoppers in search of luxury goods.
Think Gucci, Bottega Veneta, Omega, Rolex, Marc Jacobs and Zara
Home.
ENTERTAINMENT
Of course, there are also diversions for young guests. DreamWorks
Experience at Cotai Strip Resorts gives children the chance to
interact with their favourite animated characters and for you to take
a deserved break.
BODHI SPA
By now, you might need some downtime, so book an appointment
at Bodhi Spa but dont for a second think that this is just another
YHVWDUVSD7KHDZDUGZLQQLQJVSDVSHFLDOL]HVLQWUHDWPHQWV
whether Ayurvedic, Aboriginal or Asian. Youll relax knowing that
your time in Macao has been well spent at Conrad Macao.
HEALTH CLUB
Enjoy the health club, a state-of-the-art facility that incorporates
cardio and strength equipment as well as yoga and pilates sessions.
The heated pool is surrounded by cabanas and day beds.
Clockwise from left: Conrad Macaos

welcoming lobby; a Two Queens Deluxe
bedroom; Dynasty 8 offers stylish
Chinese cuisine; theres nothing but
soothing times at Bodhi Spa.
Conrad Macao, Cotai Central

LUXURY OF BEING YOURSELF
5DWHVIURP+.'
Until 31 Dec 2014
Luxury accommodation for two in Deluxe Room
Enjoy a choice of either:
- complimentary breakfast for two
- complimentary upgrade to Deluxe Suite
CONRAD MACAO SIGNATURE PACKAGE
Rates from HKD2,498++
Until 31 Dec, 2014
Luxury accommodation for two in a Deluxe Room
Daily breakfast for two at Grand Orbit
Portuguese Style Afternoon Tea Set for two
(2 drinks included)
Stay for an extra night and enjoy:
MOP200 Shopping and Dining Dollars
Estrada do Istmo. s/n, Cotai, Macao SAR, P.R. China

Tel: +853-2882-9000 Fax: +853-2882-9001
www.conradmacao.com
Radar
on the map
STREET SMART
Along the lively crossroads of Panglima

Polim, style-conscious Jakartans shop for
sub-culture spiced in local street life.
Asgar Badass Barbershop
Get a stylish cut in suave
surroundings inspired by Baz
Luhrmanns interpretation of
The Great Gatsby. Jln. Panglima
Polim IX No. 15; facebook.com/
asgarbadass; cut Rp60,000.
JLN. PANGLIMA POLIM X
JLN. PANGLIMA POLIM IV
PO LI M V
JLN. PANGLIMA POLIM IX
JL N. PA NG
LI MA
Convivium
On the corner of Panglima
Polim IX and V, theres an
Italian caf and deli that
specializes in homemade
pasta and dessert, including a
wide assortment of artisanal
gelatos. Jln. Panglima Polim
IX No. 1; 62-21/726-9963;
facebook.com/conviviumdeli;
dessert for two Rp120,000.
JLN. PANGLIMA POLIM XI
Woodpecker Coee
Try this new Melbourne-style coffee shop,
by the owners of Common House, for quality
coffee and croissants. Jln. Panglima Polim V
No.23; 62-21/720-067; atelierkreasi.com.
Velodome Coee + C
and Taco Local
In an annex of Velodome Bike Shop, joining
the Taco Local restaurant, is a new in-house
coffee shop. Now, in addition to Taco Locals
famous zesty Mexican fare, you can get a
high-class cup of joe. Jln. Panglima Polim V
No. 38; 62-21/9494-9538; tacolocal.com.
46
S E P T E M B E R 2 014
Maris Store
Need new duds to match your new do? Check
out this streetwear-centric, multi-concept
store to t yourself out in fashion-forward
street labels like Made In Paradise or Tuff
Stuff. There are ample options for that
effortlessly hip look expected in the creative
district. Jln. Panglima Polim IX No. 15;
62-21/720-8681; maris.co.id.LAUREN SHIPMAN
C L O C K W I S E F R O M T O P R I G H T: C O U R T E S Y O F C O M M O N H O U S E ; L A U R E N S H I P M A N ; C O U R T E S Y O F M A R I S S T O R E 2 ; C O U R T E S Y O F C O M M O N H O U S E ;
C O U R T E S Y O F TA C O L O C A L ; L A U R E N S H I P M A N ; C O U R T E S Y O F C O N V I V I U M ; C O U R T E S Y O F A S G A R B A D A S S B A R B E R S H O P
Common House
This is the cure for the common
mall: shopping minus the crowds
and uorescent lighting. Instead youll nd
boutiques showcasing local designers,
rotating art shows and an organic restaurant,
in a setting thats all warm wood and natural
light. Jln. Panglima Polim IX No. 16;
commonhousejkt.com.
Radar
t+l p i c ks
AT WATERS EDGE
Five new seaside
hotels where you can
splash out in style.
COURTESY OF L A CARTE
City and shore

from the rooftop
pool at La Carte,
in Danang.
maldives
The denition of bliss:
Maalifushi by COMO,
where Indonesian
thatched-roof bungalows
sit on stilts over a placid
lagoon, and you can
practice your pranayama
in guided meditation and
breathing classes. Be sure
to set an alarm; the Indian
Oceans fuchsia sunrises
are particularly vibrant
from your private plunge
pool. comohotels.com;
doubles from US$650.
playa del carmen,

mexico Cacao
arrives this month, a
sophisticated respite
from thumping Fifth
Avenue. Expect a mural by
Brazilian artist Eduardo
Kobra, a hyacinth lily
pond and a scene at Nibs
restaurant, which
highlights fresh
Yucatecan ingredients
(coconut ceviche; lobster
with green mango).
hotelcacao.com.mx;
tela bay, honduras

Sprawling across 730
hectares on the countrys
primeval northwestern
coast, Indura Beach &
Golf Resort celebrates
its natural setting with 60
tree-house-inspired
suites and a golf course
that winds through
banana palms inhabited
by capuchin monkeys.
And the Caribbean is just
steps from your front
door. induraresort.com;
bodrum, turkey
The Black Card crowd
has a new Mediterranean
hideout in the Mandarin
Oriental Bodrum, set on
two olive-grove-backed
beaches overlooking
the Aegean. After soaking
up some sunshine,
head to the spa for a
hammam treatment
using botanicals from
the resorts gardens.
mandarinoriental.com;
doubles from 745.
danang, vietnam
Live DJs, a beach club and
a rooftop bar with an
innity pool set a South
Beach Miami vibe at La
Carte, which is drawing
on Danangs rising buzz
factor. The loft-style digs
have spa-like bathrooms
and chefs kitchens.
alacarteliving.com; doubles
from VND3,108,000.
COLLEEN CLARK
additional reporting
by tim leffel.
S E P T E M B E R 2 014
47
point of view
INTO THIN AIR
Or, how I got over my fear of flying.

By Molly Jong-Fast
aron Spelling had a train car.

Aretha Franklin has a
custom bus. Even easygoing
Marge Simpson suffered
from it. I came by my
pteromerhanophobia (fear of
ying) honestly: my mother
wrote a novel called Fear of Flying. But
it started even before that. My DNA was
equal parts deoxyribonucleic acid and
panic. This didnt mean that I didnt y.
48
S E P T E M B E R 2 014
I grew up on Pan Am Flight

002, a Boeing 747 that went
from JFK to Delhi with a
stop at London Heathrow.
We ew Clipper Class
(which was Pan Ams
old-school name for
business). The ight was
always chaotic, stuffed to
the gills, hot as the inside of
an oven, hours late, and
populated almost entirely with

screaming babies. At least thats how I
remember it.
Fast-forward to my twenties: I am
sitting on a plane. The creases in my
palms are lling with sweat. I can hear
my heart pounding in my ears. Am I
going to die? Denitely. Suddenly tears
spring from my eyes. I can feel the
pitch, the noise of the engines. Is that
the landing gear sticking? Is one of the
engines not working? Is that popping
sound the engine stalling or catching
re? Is the plane supposed to tilt like
that? What about that strange ringing
sound? Is an alarm going off
somewhere on the plane? Does it mean
we are all going to die? Does it mean
that this ight is doomed? Did the pilot
look tired? Drunk? Depressed? That
was my life on an airplane. And there
was more, of course; I once grabbed the
hand of a strange man next to me on a
ight from Denver to LaGuardia. And
once I dug my nails into lm director
Brett Ratners arm even though he
barely knew me. And nally one day I
just stopped ying, because I gured it
wasnt worth it. Id gone everywhere I
wanted to go. I would just spend the
rest of my life on the Northeast
Corridor, shuttling around via Amtrak.
And for a while, about a decade, I
didnt y, and I was okay, and I thought
I had won. Perhaps I had gured it out.
But what I didnt realize was that not
ying actually made the fear worse.
Flying haunted me. I would dream
about ying. I would fantasize about
ying. I would pass airports and get a
chill down my spine. Every night was a
slightly different ying dream, some
more disturbing than others, but the
message was always the
same: I was stuck, and I
wasnt going anywhere. My
self-esteem plummeted. My
friends would be talking
WRITERS ON
about their Christmases or
FLYING SECOND
IN A SERIES
their spring breaks and they
would say Oh, thats right,
Read Gary
you dont y. Those six
Shteyngarts essay
words cut me. They felt like
Fly Me to the Moon
an indictment. How had I
at tandl.me/
gstravl.
become so profoundly
I L L U S T R AT I O N B Y Z O H A R L A Z A R
Radar
damaged that I couldnt participate in

what the rest of the world did easily
and regularly? I was pretty sure if I
didnt deal with this fear it would
mushroom. I could already feel myself
getting nervous about bridges and the
subway. I knew fear of ying
could lead to a larger
pathologyIve heard it
often does. I could easily
end up unable even to get in
an elevator. I was crossing
the line from charmingly
neurotic to meshuga. After
all, even Woody Allen could
get on an airplane.
So I started looking for a
cure. Here are some of the
things that did not work to
cure my fear of ying: being
what seemed like sneezed
on by a mad Russian hypnotist,
spending hours talking to my Freudian
analyst about the cause of my fear,
wearing a virtual-reality ying helmet

on East 90th Street, meditation, drugs
(Inderal for curing the symptoms of a
panic attack and Valium for fun before
I got sober, but neither worked),
hypnosis, ying school. There was only
one cure I didnt ever take
and it was going to some
doctor in Westchester, New
York, and being given an IV
lled with sodium
thiopental. That just seemed
too far-fetched even for me.
Then I happened on
exposure therapy. Exposure
therapy is as terrifying as it
sounds. It means just what
you think it would mean.
You are exposed to what
scares you. I went to see Dr.
Martin Seif, in New York
City. I was dreading it. Dr. Seif saw me
twice and he impressed upon me that I
was using anything I could to avoid
WHAT ABOUT THAT

STRANGE RINGING
SOUND? IS AN
ALARM GOING OFF
SOMEWHERE ON THE
PLANE? DOES IT
MEAN WE ARE ALL
GOING TO DIE?
feeling fear (avoidant behavior) and so

all of my avoidant behavior (my rituals,
or only ying in the a.m., or not ying
at all, obsessing about the weather,
constantly checking the Weather
Channel, checking turbulence maps)
were ways of reinforcing my anxiety.
He also explained that the chances of
dying in a plane crash were
innitesimal (which of course I knew).
But in my experience fear is not
solved by knowledge. Even so, almost
every fear-of-ying program has a
component of ight education, which, I
assume, is strictly to cover the easy
stuff. I myself have been lectured more
than a few times by pilots on the safety
and mechanics of ight. And while this
is charming, Im phobic, not stupid. I
know the chances of being killed in a
plane crash are 1 in 11 million. One is
more likely to be killed by lightning, a
tornado, smoking, a car accident,
biking, cardiovascular disease, an
Radar
electrical current, accidental gunre,
medical complications, inhaling or
ingesting objects, drowning or being
crushed to death by a pig.
That said, being crushed by a pig
wasnt, in my dysfunctional mind, as
scary as being packed into a metal
tuna tin hurtling through space 9,000
meters in the air at 1,000 kilometers
an hour.
So after two sessions it was time
for EXPOSURE! The rst thing I did
was go to Westchester County Airport
to try out a ight simulator that
looked like a plane. I wasnt scared at
allbut I was also not in the air. The
pilot let me y the simulator and
while I had fun, it seemed sort of
irrelevant. I wasnt afraid; in fact I
crashed into the control tower (Im
not a great driver). But a few weeks
later it was time to try the real thing.
On April 7, 2013, I ew the Delta
Shuttle from LaGuardia to
Washington Reagan. I hadnt own
since August of 2003, just short of a
decade earlier. It was a quick ight,

about an hour. I was scared, but I
remembered to do some of the things
Dr. Seif told me to do. I focused on
breathing, and on the idea that I was
only afraid of the fear itself. I texted
him, I told myself this was about
practicing being afraid. I read some of
the PDFs he sent me about managing
anxiety. I was nervous but understood
the fact that ying was safe and that I
was the problem. Flying home I cried
the entire way. But I emerged a new
person. I went back to the doctor and
he said, Book another ight.
In May, my husband and I ew to
Toronto (I cried on that ight too). In
June I took my daughter to London (I
was totally ne). In August my
husband and I went to L.A. (I didnt
even feel nervous when the pilot
turned on the fasten seat belts sign and
mused about very rough air). On the
ight home I cried but for a totally
different reason: I cried because I was
so proud of myself. Having been on
this planet for 35 years, I know how

hard it is to change ones own life. So
this was one of the most exciting
things that had ever happened to me.
In November I went with my mom to
Miami for the Miami Book Fair. In
February I ew with my youngest son
to Boston and in March I went back to
Los Angeles. In June I will go to
London, Paris and Venice. I am a
person who ies now. I am a person
who can go anywhere.
Do I still get nervous on airplanes?
The answer is, sort of. I have learned a
lot about myself and about managing
my anxiety. I am a person who is
recovering from my phobia, so I have to
be careful. I have to actively not obsess
about the ight. I try to never check the
weather. I embrace my anxiety. I dont
love turbulence but I see it as an
opportunity for overcoming my fear. I
am so thrilled with my new life, but
ultimately one of the greatest gifts of
my getting over the fear is that I never
have to ride Amtrak again.
Radar
trending
DINE WITH ME
C L O C K W I S E F R O M T O P : C O U R T E S Y O F B O I N N O V AT I O N ; C O U R T E S Y O F S H I N Z O ; C O U R T E S Y O F S M I T H 2 ; C O U R T E S Y O F S H I N Z O
Chefs across the region are

flexing their culinary chops
with boundary pushing, multicourse meals at their exclusive
tables. By Diana Hubbell
Clockwise from top:

Expect the unexpected at Bo
Innovation; sashimi set from
Shinzo; Smiths chefs plate
with care; a meaty main at
Smith; chef Lawrence Chia
prepares omakase at Shinzo.
The latest craze in ne dining requires

a leap of faithyou have to entrust the
fate of your meal to the whims of the
experts. Southeast Asias big-name
chefs are offering intimate tables with
unconventional set menus to satisfy
both the bold and the indecisive.
Sashimi masters have been hosting
chefs tables for ages with omakase, that
carefully choreographed parade of
Lilliputian dishes. One of the best new
places on the scene is Singapores
Shinzo (17 Carpenter St.; 65/6438-2921;
shinzo.com.sg; S$138 per person), a
spartan, blonde-wood temple to all
things piscine. Opened last year, sushi
veteran Lawrence Chia offers a
seasonally inuenced omakase that
has all the elegance of a kaiseki menu
without the austerity. + Tradition is left
at the door at Bo Innovation (60
Johnston Rd.; 852/2850-8371;
boinnovation.com; chefs table HK$2,380
per person) where Alvin Leung Jr.,
nicknamed The Demon Chef for his
clever reinterpretations of Cantonese
cuisine, takes the classic dim sum for a
molecular-gastro spin. With taste
bud-teasing dishes like lobster with a
Sichuan-inected hollandaise, and foie
gras with sea urchin and Korean miso,
it is no wonder this Hong Kong
restaurant has three Michelin stars.
+ Thailands chefs are no slouches when
it comes to inventive eats, and private
chefs tables are popping up all over
Bangkok. At Smith (Sukhumvit Soi 49;
66-2/261-0515; smith-restaurant.com;
chefs table from Bt3,800 per person), a
reclaimed warehouse with an
ambitious nose-to-tail menu, Ian
Kittichai and his two co-chefs show off
their house-made charcuterie. It might
be a splurge, but if you brave the leap,
the pros promise to serve you up a
plateful of paradise.
S E P T E M B E R 2 014
51
Radar
Modern art and
design inside
Transit Shed No. 1.
noticed
CHANGING TIDES
An artistic revolution is taking place on the

docks of the Rangoon River. By Fiona McGregor
The Rangoon River
jetty is the setting of
a new creative hub.
52
S E P T E M B E R 2 014
At rst glance, its an

unlikely setting for
Rangoons newest creative
mainstay. Transit Shed No.
1, known as TS1, is a
350-square-meter
warehouse made of paintchipped concrete and
timeworn corrugated metal
sheets. Boat horns blare as a
steady stream of raggedshirted porters unload
heavy cargo from ships that
line the banks of the
Rangoon River. But step
inside, and you nd a
building transformed into
what the creators hope will
be the start of a cultural
rejuvenation of the Rangoon
port. Architect Dominic
Leong embraced the gritty
industrial surroundings of
the docks with the
buildings exterior, but the

interior is clean and
modern. Angular crisp
white walls are the
showcase for pop-up art
gallery displays by Burmese
contemporary artists like
Phyoe Kyi, while the
warehouse space houses a
rotating program of local
stores, like the Myanmar
Made brand, all celebrating
the high-end possibilities of
Burmas design culture.
TS1, which opened this
spring, represents a
distinctive new turn for
Rangoon, tapping into what
its founders say was a
demand for a stylish location
where people can view,
purchase and experience
innovative arts, crafts and
foods from Burma and
P H OTOGR A P H ED BY G R EG H O L L A N D
Radar
beyond. In a nation just
opening up after years under
an oppressive regime, the
re-emerging arts scene is
appearing in different
forms. While TS1 is clearly
more about style than
subversion, it represents a
growing condence in the
marketability and high
quality of Burmese arts.
The idea, according to
founder Ivan Pun, the
Oxford-educated son of
well-known Burmese
real-estate magnate Serge
Pun, is that culture,
commerce and cuisine are
the three anchors in a space
where events, retailers and
menus change regularly.
It shows you dont have
to journey out of the country
to get [internationalstandard] art and crafts,
says Nathalie Johnston,
director of exhibitions.
As well as the main
exhibitions, which revolve
every six to eight weeks, TS1
also hosts one-off evening
events promoting the work
of emerging artists including
music nights and
performance art events.
Something of a local
secret for now, it is
undoubtedly more popular
with resident expats and
Burmese people than
tourists and holidaymakers.
It attracts a clientele that
runs the gamut from
wealthy expats to the
trendsetting offspring of
Burmas renowned business
elite, all ocking to see
young creative types
showing off their talents.
The goods on sale vary as
widely as the crowd it draws
and visitors can spend
anywhere from US$20 on
trinkets to thousands of
dollars on hand-crafted
furniture and paintings,
54
S E P T E M B E R 2 014
depending on which retailer

is operating from the space
at any given time.
Meanwhile, TS1 owners
are preparing for the nal
stage of their cultural
triumvirate with the official
launch of Port Autonomy,
the bistro-cum-bar in an
adjoining building. It will
offer a modern take on the
traditional Burmese teashop
during the day with classic
dishes such as mohingya sh
noodle soup served along
with experimental fare from
guest chefs, while evenings
will focus on wines and ales.
The eatery is slated to open
this month, promising a
marriage of cuisine, culture
and cold beer.
TS1 will host a series of
talks with international and
local artists and curators
from September 26 to 28,
titled Contemporary
Dialogues. A new group
show of contemporary
Burmese artists will also be
on display starting September
26. Transit Shed No. 1; Lanthit
Jetty, Rangoon; 95-1/248-908;
ts1yangon.com.
Artist
Phyoe Kyi.
Pun + Projects, the

team behind TS1.
The exterior of Transit

Shed No. 1 belies the
space within.
Radar
debut
LOCO FOR COCO
Theres a new jewel

sparkling in the Maldivian
crown of 1,900 coral
islands. Opened this
spring, Coco Priv
Kuda Hithi, a private
island residence
featuring avant-garde
design from Singaporebased sustainability guru
Guz Wilkinson, is
56
S E P T E M B E R 2 014
revving up the glamour of

luxury travel.
Set in North Mal
Atoll, a 30-minute
speedboat ride away from
the airport, this upscale
1.4-hectare property
houses ve stunning
villas and one master
residence; two private
beaches; an innity pool;
and an on-call staff of 26,

including personal chefs,
a master masseuse,
sommelier and dive
instructor. Not content
with your average hotel
emissary, Priv went a
step further, hiring a
former senior footman to
the Queen of England as
its general manager.
The main villa, a splitoor state-of -the-art

affair, complete with
Jacuzzi, plunge pool, bar,
wine cellar, glass-andpolished-concrete dining
room and library, sleeps
two in dream-inducing
plush bedding, but who
needs dreams when lifes
this sweet? CAIN NUNNS
Coco Prive North Mal

Atoll; cocoprive.com; the
property must be rented in
its entirety with prices
ranging from US$8,000
per night for two people
during low season
(May-July) to US$32,500
per night for 12 guests
during the high season
(November-January).
COURTESY OF COCO PRIV KUDA HITHI
Pull out your snazziest swim trunks and best flip flops for a
weekend at this flash new private island retreat, located
somewhere between the Indian Ocean and the lap of luxury.
Radar
Balis sweetest
newcomer. Below: A
locavore dessert.
desserts
Craving dessert for dinner? Acclaimed U.S. pastry

chef Will Goldfarb has just the thing to sate your
sweet tooth. Room 4 Dessert (Jln. Raya Sanggingan,
Kedewatan, Ubud; room4dessert.asia; cocktail tasting
menu for two Rp490,000) is Goldfarbs tropical take on
his now-shuttered, same-named New York restaurant,
offering a locally sourced desserts-only menu to
satisfy Balis sugar ends. Dishes are full of native
avors that parry and surprise: mangosteen bitters,
lemon basil and rosella are among the sweet star
ingredients. Pull up a chair at the bar and watch
Goldfarb and his team at work in their down-tobusiness kitchen, where the most sophisticated
equipment is likely to be the blender. Its more high
technique but less high technology, says Goldfarb of
his cooking style here, where each dessert is served on
a specially crafted ceramic plate. Cocktails also
receive great attention to detailthe aged Negroni is
poured over a single sphere of distilled-water ice so its
smooth to the nal sip. No need for parsimony, either;
theres a cocktails-with-desserts tasting menu for a
sample of pretty much everything. HOLLY MCDONA LD
COURTESY OF ROOM 4 DESSERT 2
BALI BRULEE
A mesmerising evening of Verdi,

Puccini and Rossini classics.
SYMPHONY
CONCERT
NOVA AMADEUS ORCHESTRA ROME, ITALY
Tuesday 16 September 7.30pm

Baht 3,000 / 2,500 / 2,000 / 1,500 / 800
Supported by Embassy of Italy
A ballet that is contemporary and,

at the same time, romantic.
The Prague Post
SNOW WHITE
BALLET PRELJOCAJ, FRANCE
Wednesday 24 September 7.30pm

Baht 3,000 / 2,500 / 2,000 / 1,500 / 800
Supported by Embassy of France
and BNP Paribas
Hotline 02 262 3191

www.thaiticketmajor.com (24 hrs)
www.bangkokfestivals.com
VENUE: Thailand Cultural Centre. Free shuttle from MRT station

Thailand Cultural Centre, Exit 1, during 5.30-7.00pm
Radar
field notes
FASHIONABLE ESCAPES
The best way to decompress? Designer

Michael Kors, in his inaugural column for T+L,
says its visiting a time-tested destination
preferably one without cell service.
As a city person, when I really want
to get away, I nd nothing beats
those locations that combine natural
beauty with a bit of luxury. The
dream is to unplug from the world
and recharge my batteries, with a
little time in the sun. Here, three
places I go to refuel.
phuket The Thai island has long
been one of my favorites. Amanpuri
(amanresorts.com; doubles from
US$550) is dramatic and lush, with
remarkable views of the Andaman
Sea. You must rent a boatthe water
is like liquid jadeand go over to
breathtaking James Bond Island. I
never leave Phuket without seeing a
60
S E P T E M B E R 2 014
performance at Phuket Simon

Cabaret (phuket-simoncabaret.com),
an over-the-top drag show.
big sur This stretch of the
California coast is my obsession of
the moment, as you can see in my
Fall 2014 collection. I love that
theres beauty everywhere, but its
also very laid-back. The best part?
Theres almost no cell reception. My
perfect day includes a morning
massage at Post Ranch Inn & Spa
(postranchinn.com; doubles from
US$775), brunch at Deetjens
(deetjens.com), and an afternoon at
Pfeiffer Beach, followed by a sunset
drink at Nepenthe (nepenthebigsur.
com). If I could, Id commute from Big

Sur every day.
capri I usually visit in the fall and
spring, when the island is at its most
peaceful. The simple pleasures of life
there are abundantthe sun, the sea,
the unforgettable pasta. The Grand
Hotel Quisisana (quisisana.com;
doubles from 300) has a glamorous
historyJackie Onassis used to stay
there. Of course, I shop in Capri, too:
Da Costanzo (39-081/837-8077) and
Canfora (canfora.com) sell
handmade sandals, while Carthusia
(carthusia.it) stocks divine lemon
soap. And I never leave without a few
Borsalino hats.
C L O C K W I S E F R O M T O P L E F T: K O D I A K G R E E N W O O D ; S E R G E Y C H E R N O V/ D R E A M S T I M E . C O M ; C O U R T E S Y O F A M A N R E S O R T S ; C O U R T E S Y O F M I C H A E L K O R S 2
Clockwise from left: Designer Michael Kors on vacation

in Capri; Post Ranch Inn, in Big Sur, California; James
Bond Island, in Thailands Phang Nga Bay, near Phuket;
Amanpuri resort, in Phuket; a Big Surinspired runway
look from Korss Fall 2014 collection (michaelkors.com).
FIREWORKS
AND MUSIC
FILL THE AIR
Fireworks and music events in September and
October will make you enjoy Macau even more
From street level, historical Macau is visible at every turn and

makes for a great day out. In the coming months, two annual
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Macau Fishermans Wharf for the start of an enjoyable 150-minute
tour of the enclave where, not only East meets West, but where the
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rage at the start of this tour, before it quickly heads to a trio of
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Gifts Museum of Macau. Each offers a solid background to this
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%\QRZLWVWLPHIRUWKHIHVWLYLWLHVFHQWHUHGLQWKLV
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take in the 26th Macau International Fireworks Display
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UHZRUNVVKRZVEXWWKHPRGHUQGLVSOD\VDUHEHVWVHHQDPRQJVWWKH
old world charms of Macau, lending credence to Macaus claim of
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From October 3 to November 1, the 28th Macau
International Music Festival raises its curtain on an event that
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showcasing musicians from around the globe and for Macau itself.
This year, invitees include renowned ensembles and artists of
different musical genres, school and styles. In all, there are 25
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any who attend.
Radar
events
NEED FOR SPEED
You dont need to be in the grandstands for a killer view of Formula 1s

motor-racing mayhem. Here, a few of our favorite spots to take in the action.
com; Thrill of Speed package,
doubles from S$5,300) and
The heart-pounding reverb

as a Ferrari blurs by and the
hot scent of burning asphalt
are well worth a front-row
ticket. But those sell out fast.
If you cant get your hands
on one in time for the
September 21 Formula 1
Ritz-Carlton, Millenia
(ritzcarlton.com; Club Deluxe

room from S$1,800 per night),
each with near 360-degree
aerial views for race
rubbernecking, from the Pit
Grandstand near Singapore
Flyer to the hairpin Turn 13
near the Merlion. Harbour
View rooms at both
Singapore Grand Prix
(singaporegp.sg), theres no
need to fretyou can still
get your eetness x with
panoramic views of the
oodlit street circuit over
cocktails and hors doeuvre,
by checking into a club room
at one of the towering hotels
along Marina Bays skyline.
On Turn 6, Pan Pacic
Singapore (panpacic.com;
Pacic Club offer, doubles
from S$3,870) grants
exclusive access to its
38th-oor Club lounge for
Winning Formula
Get in the Formula 1
spirits at Caff B
(The Shoppes at Marina
Bay Sands; caffeb.com.
sg; 65/6887-3311;
drinks for two S$40). Try
the Fuel in A Formula, a
full-bodied cherry
brandy mixed with
cranberry juice and
Malibu rum; perfect to
get you revved up.
Closer to the action, The
Fullerton Bay Hotels
rooftop bar Lantern
(fullertonbayhotel.com;
65/6597-5299; drinks
for two S$45) faces
Turn 13. Sample the
Singapore Grand Prix
cocktails like the
Fullerton Hairpin: a mix
of vodka, Midori, peach,
strawberry, pineapple
juice and cranberry juice.
Swisstel The Stamford
sunset drinks and canaps

with live Formula 1
screening. Across the street,
sandwiched between the
tracks on Raffles Boulevard
and Raffles Avenue, are club
lounges at the Mandarin
Oriental (mandarinoriental.
(swissotel.com; track-facing
Grand Prix package, doubles
from S$1,400) and Fairmont
(fairmont.com; track-facing
Grand Prix package, doubles
from S$1,150) on Turn 9
overlook the track, so you
can take in the high-velocity
thrills from the coziest spot
on your featherbed.
MONSICHA HOONSUWAN
Cars from the Bars

If you cant score a room with a view, theres a slew of watering holes near the racetracks where patrons can goggle the telecast over a cold cocktail,
with the live sounds of cars roaring within earshot. Treetops (ritzcarlton.com; 65/6434-5288; special Louis Roederer champagnes for two S$40),
the al fresco area at Chihuly Lounge, is our pick for bar bites and champagne, while beer-lovers should join the cheering fans at Harrys (8 Raffles
Ave, 01-05/07, Esplanade Mall; harrys.com.sg; 65/6334-0132; beers for two S$25) for a pint of their adrenaline-cooling deep-gold premium lager.
64
S E P T E M B E R 2 014
C L O C K W I S E F R O M T O P L E F T: C O U R T E S Y O F S I N G A P O R E G P ; C O U R T E S Y O F S W I S S T E L T H E S TA M F O R D ; C O U R T E S Y O F T H E F U L L E R T O N B AY H O T E L ; C O U R T E S Y O F T H E R I T Z C A R LT O N , M I L L E N I A
Clockwise from left: Last years rip-roaring night race; view the floodlit circuit of
the Singapore Grand Prix from Swisstel The Stamford; special revved-up cocktails
at Lantern bar; watch the Formula 1 telecast over champagne at Treetops.
Absolutely Brilliant!
That really put me in a good mood.
Simon Cowell
THE JIVE
ACES
UKS NUMBER ONE JIVE AND
SWING BAND, UNITED KINGDOM
Friday 26 September 7.30pm

Baht 2,000 / 1,600 / 1,200 / 1,000 / 800
Mr. Rushton knows how to make things happen

The New York Times
BLACK
DIAMOND
CONTEMPORARY BALLET,
DANISH DANCE THEATRE, DENMARK
Thursday 9 October 7.30pm

Baht 2,000 / 1,600 / 1,200 / 1,000 / 800
Supported by Embassy of Denmark,
PANDORA and DZ Card
Hotline 02 262 3191


your travel dilemmas solved T H E T R U T H A B O U T C O D E S H A R E S 69 O U R G L O B A L G U I D E T O T H E T O P T R AV E L

S P E C I A L I S T S 70 T + L S FAV O R I T E N E W H E A D P H O N E S 82 B E S T R A I N Y S E A S O N R E T R E A T S 83 W H A T T O PA C K F O R
A N I T A L I A N H O N E Y M O O N 84 T H I S M O N T H S T O P T R AV E L D E A L S 86
by Amy Farley
PLUS
THE
LIST
Our annual roundup of

the best travel advisors
PAGE 7O
Q+A
WHY USE A
TRAVEL AGENT?
The rise of online booking and DIY
travel resources such as Airbnb
and Uber has, in many respects,
made travel easier. We can
compare fares, book hotel rooms
at the last minute via an app, and
find local guidesall on our own.
But here are four ways that a travel
professional can still save you time
and money (not to mention a lot
of heartache) on your next trip.
I L L U S T R AT E D B Y J AV I E R J A N
S E P T E M B E R 2 014
68
Trip Doctor
The Fix
69
S E P T E M B E R 2 014
BY THE NUMBERS
160
The amount in US dollars of

food and beverage credit you
receive with a $200-a-night
room at the Four Seasons
Resort Whistler, in Canada,
if you book with a
Virtuoso travel advisor.
I was reminded of this a few

months ago when I (travel
editor that I am) foolishly tried
arranging my own ights
in Africa before a safari. After
consulting with an advisor
late in the game, I learned I
was about to book with an
airline that was notorious for
last-minute, safari-ruining
cancellations. Lesson learned.
Even if youre not planning
a particularly complicated
or exotic trip, its worth
considering the additional
value of professional advice.

Much of the travel industry is
built on relationships, both
formal and informal, and if
your advisor has the right ones,
it can pay offliterallyfor you.
WHATS YOUR
PROBLEM?
MY AIRPLANE
SEAT
IS BROKEN!
Do...
VIP Treatment
Many of our A-List advisors

are part of large consortia
that leverage their members
collective buying power to
deliver guaranteed rates as
well as perks for their clients.
What that may mean for
you: if you book a night in a
luxury hotel through the right
person, you can get an upgrade,
daily breakfast for two, a
US$100 restaurant credit and
late checkout, along with a
welcome amenity of wine and
treats. On a seven-night cruise,
it could be a cabin upgrade and
US$500 of shipboard credit.
And since the advisor is
making a commission off the
booking, you wont be charged
a markup. The largest luxury
travel consortia, Virtuoso
(virtuoso.com) and Signature
Travel Network (signaturetravel
network.com), each contract
with more than 1,000 luxury
hotels, cruise lines and tour
operators. (American Express
Platinum and Centurion
cardholders have access to a
similar program through Fine
Hotels & Resorts.) Advisors
who do a lot of business with
a particular company may
have additional preferred
status, which translates into
even more perks for clients.
And then there are the
informal relationships that
top advisors cultivate with
hotel general managers around
the world. So chances are, if
youre looking to book with a
Speak up.
Even when the

problem seems minor.
A single loose screw
could become a
major safety concern.
Dont...
Despair. Flight
attendants may have
a solution (e.g., a
portable DVD player
to replace a broken
seatback system).
Do...
Prepare for delays.

If the seat is deemed
unsafe, maintenance
must be called and
you may be bumped.
Dont...
Walk away
empty-handed.
When inconvenienced,
ask for compensatory
milesor at
least a free drink.
I L L U S T R AT I O N S , F R O M L E F T: J A V I E R J A N ; B E N W I S E M A N 4
Theres a reason we use the

term advisor to describe the
members of our annual A-List,
the top travel specialists in the
business (page 70). These
experts offer much more than
booking services. First and
foremost, says Wendy Perrin,
TripAdvisors Travel Advocate
and founder of WendyPerrin.
com, they can help you decide
where to go by walking you
through the pros and cons of
destinations based on the
varying interests (and ages) of
the people in your group. Not
only that, theyll deliver insider
insights and access. They
can tell you how to avoid the
crowds at major sights and
where the locals eat. They can
even pair you with designers
and architects who moonlight
as walking-tour guides, get a
local artist to open his studio
to you, and direct you to hidden
corners of a city. And they also,
crucially, know how to put
together a seamless itinerary.
Have a question for T+Ls Trip Doctor?

Send it to tripdoctor@
travelandleisureasia.com.
Follow @TravLeisureAsia on Twitter.
major company, theres

someone who can get you more
bang for your buck. Go ahead,
Perrin says, ask an advisor
where he or she has connections
and what benets they confer.
Lower Rates and Fares
The most affordable rates and

fares arent always found
online, especially when it comes
to luxury travel. Hotels and
cruise lines that dont drop their
prices for online travel agencies
often offer special deals and
promotions to members of
their partner consortiawho,
in turn, alert their clients. These
can be everything from four
nights for the price of three
to an upgrade to business-class
tickets on an airfare-cruise
package. Similarly, fares for
rst- and business-class
seats on international carriers
can vary widely, depending
on who is looking for them.
Travel advisors frequently
have access to lower prices
than those available to the
public, usually as a result of
consortium contracts.
Finding Rooms
That sold-out hotel that you

waited too long to book? Its
not always sold out. Many
properties will hold inventory
in reserve. Other rooms may
BY THE NUMBERS
57
Share (in US dollars) of

cruise bookings that are
arranged by travel agents.
SOURCE: U.S. ONLINE TR AVEL OVERVIEW,
13 TH EDITION, PHOCUSWRIGHT INC.
be in the hands of local tour

operators who dole them out to
partner travel companies. For
Amal in August, Danube
cruises in September, or Hawaii
over the holidays, top advisors
are known for clearing out space
for their clients. Theyre also
skilled at putting travelers in
the right rooms, avoiding the
misleadingly named Garden
Views that overlook parking
lots or cruise cabins set right
below the tness room. (Beware
the early morning step class.)
Troubleshooting
Every trip has its share of

hiccups. The small ones can
be fun (or at least instructive)
to navigate. The big onesa
missed cruise connection;
a cloud of volcanic ashcan
be a nightmare. Last winter,
a succession of brutal storms
helped log a record 126,000

cancellations on U.S.-operated
ights that originated in the
United States. In situations
such as these, the value of
travel advisors really kicks in.
Theyll rebook your ights
(sometimes via a VIP phone
line with the airline,
sometimes sitting on hold for
hours), either nding seats
on planes that appear to be
full or springing you to the top
of waiting lists for ones that
indeed are. They can also get
you last-minute hotel rooms
and le insurance claims on
your behalf. Lost luggage?
Theyll track your bags and
have even been known to keep
a local store open late so you
can buy replacement clothes in
the meantime. Ask an advisor
about his or her after-hours
service before you book.
THE FINAL SAY
WHAT DO HOTELS DO WITH MY

HALFUSED SHAMPOO?
Most hotels discard leftover

amenities, which is good for hygiene,
but not so much for the environment.
Today, an increasing number of
properties worldwide donate their
extra products for recycling and reuse,
thanks to nonprofits such as
Clean the World. Since 2009, the
organization has collected and
sterilized more than 17 million bars
of soap and 1.2 million liters of
shampoo and conditioner
and distributed them to those in
needeliminating hundreds of tons
of waste in the process.
WHAT IS
A CODE
SHARE?
If a carrier issues
you a ticket for
a flight operated by
a different airline,
thats the result
of a code-share
agreement. This
happens frequently
between
international alliance
partners (SkyTeam;
Oneworld; Star
Alliance), but is not
restricted to them.
Be advised: not all
code-share flights
are equal in the eyes
of your frequentflier program;
some may not count
toward elitequalifying miles or
segments.
Small, regional
carriers frequently
operate short-haul
flights on behalf
of larger airlines.
Sometimes they fly
under their own
names, but often
they carry the brand
of their domestic
partner. The catch?
The service, as well
as on-time arrival
and even safety
records, of these
regional airlines may
not match those
of the carrier with
which you booked.
The U.S. Department
of Transportation
is considering new
rules that will make
it easier to see
who exactly is
operating
your flight. Until
then, look for
the small Operated
by notice when
you search.
S E P T E M B E R 2 014
70
Trip Doctor
Strategies
Ponte
SantAngelo,
in Rome.
Painting classes in an Italian

artists studio, a sail down the
Brazilian coast on a private yacht
or an African safari led by a
documentary filmmaker: a
top travel advisor can help you
turn your next vacation into
the experience of a lifetime.
In T+Ls annual A-List, we
showcase the best specialists
in the businessthose who
can book you into sold-out
hotels, introduce you
to the most keyed-in local
guides and much more.
LIST
Our 133 Top Travel Specialists

Edited by Amy Farley and Brooke Porter Katz. Reported by Stirling Kelso
S I M O N W AT S O N
THE
7ULSOH1LJKWV'HOLJKWE\'XVLW
Stay two nights and receive the third night free!
For reservations, visit
or call +66 (0) 2636 3333.
Terms and conditions apply.
THE
LIST
cooking or playing an instrument.

Lisa Lindblad Travel Design,
New York City; 1-212/876-2554;
lisa@lisalindblad.com.
Mary Ann Ramsey
Super-Agents
These are the travel-industry all-stars,
with the knowledge and connections to make
any dream trip a reality.
Maita Barrenechea
With three decades of on-theground travel-management
experience in Argentina, Chile and
Uruguay, Barrenechea has
the friends and the industry
connections to arrange entre into
Buenos Airess fashion circles, an
equestrian getaway at a Patagonia
estancia or a high-roller beach
weekend on the Uruguayan coast.
Shes happy to see that travelers
are showing increasing interest in
lesser-known cities (including
Rosario, Argentina, with its
beautiful Art Deco architecture)
and in nature reserves such as
Puerto Valle, where Argentinean
ostriches and alligators roam.
Trend watch A handful of new
hotels and resorts are set to attract
luxury travelers to overlooked
destinations in Chile. The 22-suite
Via Vik is opening in October
on an 4,500-hectare vineyard in
central Millahue. Later this
year in the heart of downtown,

Santiago welcomes the highdesign Singular, sister property
to the lodge in Patagonia.
Mai10, Buenos Aires; 54-11/43143390; maita@mai10.com.ar.
Jack S. Ezon
Along with bespoke trips for
individuals, Ezon plans nearly 30
celebrations around the world
every year. To pull off these
events, he has a party-planning
department with unparalleled
global connections. Though Ezon
himself remains heavily involved
in the details, picking out birthday
venues in London, wedding bands
in Punta Mita and tasting menus
at Cape Town restaurants. A
former lawyer, he is an expert at
negotiating on behalf of his clients
and has a team that is skilled at
keeping up with the demanding
and often last-minuteplanning
pace of todays travelers.
Trend watch Ibiza, Spain, a

legendary party destination,
is growing up, Ezon says, thanks
to hotel openings such as Destino
by Pacha and Ushuaa Beach
Hotel. Its becoming an
alternative to St.-Tropez. Hes
also looking forward to new ultraluxury cruise options in the
Galpagos, including Silverseas
Silver Galpagos. Ovation
Vacations, New York City; jezon@
ovationtravel.com.
Lisa Lindblad
Lindblads background in
anthropology is reflected in her
itineraries, which often include
neighborhood and cultural tours
led by historians and in-the-know
locals. All of her recommendations
are the result of in-depth research
done on behalf of clients. When
one recently expressed interest in
visiting the Dominican Republics
northern coast, Lindblad
flew there to scout hotels, houses,
guides and restaurants. She
thinks of every journey as an
opportunity for cultural exchange,
and hopes her clients end each day
with a story to tell. Trend watch
Trips are becoming multivocational, Lindblad says, noting
the ways people are engaging
with their travelsmaking videos
and learning new skills, such as
Guy Rubin
When Rubin moved to China
in 1994, he was surprised to find
a dearth of resources for
discerning travelers in a country
so rich in cultural heritage and
natural beauty. He and his wife
and partner, Nancy Kim, set out
to change that, and now lead
Chinas most ambitious luxury
tour operator. To keep up with the
countrys rapid transformation,
Rubin is constantly inspecting
hotelsBeijing has seen the
arrival of a Waldorf Astoria; a
Rosewood and another Mandarin
Oriental are still to comeand
developing new experiences. In
Hangzhou, he can set up a tour
of a pharmacy and museum with a
practitioner of Chinese medicine;
in Shanghai, hell arrange a
nightlife tour of the jazz scene.
Trend watch Rubin has seen
increased interest in Chengdu,
which is home to the giant panda,
the heart of Sichuan cuisine, and
the jumping-off point for a visit to
the ancient archaeological site of
Sanxingdui. A Ritz-Carlton
recently opened; Temple House
NEW TO LIST T+LS ADVISORY BOARD
72
S E P T E M B E R 2 014
ANDRE W HETHERINGTON
A view of Es Vedr,
a rock formation off
Ibiza, Spain.
Ramsey approaches her work

with the mind-set of a financial
planner, meeting with clients
to discuss their long-term travel
objectives and develop an
execution plan. She maintains a
master list of their goals and
dream trips, and uses her frequent
travels to vet destinations and
experiences. Ramsey cruises
regularly, and creating
personalized shore excursions is
one of her specialties. She also
makes a point of flying various
airlines to stay on top of new
cabin layouts and designs.
Trend watch Scandinavia is
becoming even more popular
by both land and boat. The
scenery is spectacular, whether
you are sailing through the
Stockholm Archipelago or
taking the Flm Railway
to hike Norways Nryfjord,
a UNESCO World Heritage site.
Betty Maclean Travel, Naples,
Florida; 1-239/513-0333; maryann@
bettymacleantravel.com.
Trip Doctor
Strategies
and a Six Senses are up next.

Imperial Tours, Beijing; 86-10/
8440-7162; guy@imperialtours.net.
Anne Morgan Scully

Scullys clients can expect
seamless trips that are full of
surprises, from airport transfers
in luxury cars to thoughtful
amenities, such as a bottle of
champagne, as they check in to
their hotel rooms. She stresses
the importance of well educated
guides who are fantastic
storytellers and local tastemakers
who can enrich a trip. Having
watched the cruise industry
develop over the past 30 years,
Scully is also an expert on luxury
ships, from ocean liners to
private yachts. She recently
became the godmother to Ingvi,
a new Viking River Cruise ship.
Trend watch River cruising in
Europe is booming, as Uniworld,
Tauck and Viking create more
itineraries along the Rhne.
Scully also notes an increased
interest in U.S. national parks
(Yellowstone, Yosemite and the
Grand Canyon) among families
looking for exclusive, skip-theline trips. McCabe World Travel,
McLean, Virginia; 1-703/762-5055;
anne@mccabeworld.com.
Pallavi Shah
When Shah evaluates a
destination, she goes beyond
simply checking out hotels and
restaurants. She dives into its
history and cultural background.
She is especially drawn to
experiences that connect travelers
with locals. In India, for example,
she asks her favorite designers
and craftspeople to open up their
houses and studios and show
guests the artistic process behind
their textiles, clothes and jewelry.
Trend watch A renewed desire
to visit wellness destinations,
ranging from sybaritic resorts
such as CastaDiva, on Lake
Como, in Italy, to top-notch
medical spas in Italy, Turkey and
India. Our Personal Guest, New
York City; 1-646/284-2454; opgny@
ourpersonalguest.com.
NOE DEWITT
Jim Strong
& Nancy Strong
Attention to detail from the first
meeting, accessibility (as a rule,
their phone is answered on
the first ring) and a contagious
passion for travel define this

mother-and-son team. They arm
clients with both paper and digital
copies of itineraries loaded with
confirmation numbers and names,
plus who to call for assistance at
any hour. Proof of Jims passion
for his industry? He recently
produced an off-Broadway play,
Craving for Travel, about the trials
and rewards of being an advisor.
Trend watch More high-budget
clients are requesting wheels-up
to wheels-down assistance to
facilitate travel every step of the
way. Guides not only reconfirm
pickups and flight schedules,
but even scout restaurants before
a meal, selecting the best table
and informing the chef of food
allergies. Strong Travel Services,
Dallas; 1-214/361-0027; jim@
strongtravel.com and nstrong@
strongtravel.com.
and network of well-connected

locals sustain the business, which
grew out of Zacks own curiosity
and expertise as an architect and
historic preservationist. We focus
on people perhaps even more than
place, he says of his guides. They
can open doors to experiences
ranging from visiting a
bullfighters private farm in Spain
to leading a boys soccer workshop
in a South African township.
Trend watch Interest in

experiential travel continues
to grow, Zack says. Few travelers
start the process by telling
us their hotel likes and dislikes.
They want to find the ways
a destination addresses their
passion, whether thats art,
music or sports.
Heritage Tours Private Travel,
New York City; 1-212/206-8400;
joel@htprivatetravel.com.
U.S. & Canada
Valerie Ann Wilson

Wilson is an industry influencer
with 16 offices around the U.S. and
more than 30 years of experience.
Shes chairman emeritus of
Virtuosos advisory board and a
valued advisor for half a dozen
luxury hotels and travel brands.
Shes also written two travel books
and is on the road for more than a
third of every year. Wilson and the
staff of her top-notch agency (now
also under the leadership of her
daughters, T+L A-Listers Jennifer
Wilson-Buttigieg and Kimberly
Wilson Wetty) are well traveled
and highly organized. But they
still enjoy the collaborative nature
of trip planning with clients. Part
of the fun is hearing their ideas
and vicariously traveling through
each customer, Wilson says.
Trend watch The growth of
multigenerational travel is
staggeringand Wilson is part
of the movement herself. This
year, she is taking Seabourns
Baltic cruise with her children
and grandchildren, where
theyll trace her own mothers
Swedish roots. Valerie Wilson
Travel, New York City; 1-212/5323400; valeriew@vwti.com.
Joel A. Zack
Concentrating on a small piece
of the worldPortugal, Morocco,
South Africa, Spain and
Turkeyand knowing these
destinations inside and out gives
Zack his edge. A dedicated team
Outside Lafayette,
a French bistro
in New York City.
HAWAII
Carolyne Brandon
Years as agent 32. Other specialty
Cruises. Altour American Express
Travel, Cupertino, California;
1-650/248-2344; carolyne.
brandon@altour.com.
Marilyn Clark
Years as agent 13. Other
specialty French Polynesia.
Lighthouse Travel, Huntington
Beach, California; marilyn@
lighthousetravel.net.
Ed Phillips
Alaska. Frosch Travel, Burlingame,
California; trvaler@gmail.com.
NAPA VALLEY
Michelle Murr
Personalized travel throughout
Italy. Azurine, San Francisco;
1-415/796-3869; michelle@
azurinetravel.com.
NEW YORK
Lia Batkin
specialty Luxury travel.
In the Know Experiences,
New York City; 1-212/776-1784;
lia@intheknowexperiences.com.
PACIFIC NORTHWEST
Sheri Doyle
Canadian Rockies. Pacific Northwest
Journeys, Seattle; 1-206/935-9730;
info@pnwjourneys.com.
WESTERN U.S.
Harold Jenkins
Skiing. American Express
Corporate Vacations, Lake Forest,
Illinois; 1-615/714-9917; harold.
jenkins@corpvacations.com.

S E P T E M B E R 2 014
73
Trip Doctor
Strategies
THE
LIST
WildChina, Beijing; 86-10/64656602; mei.zhang@wildchina.com.

HONG KONG
Laura Woo
INDIA
Jonny Bealby
Central Asia. Wild Frontiers,
London; 44-20/7736-3968;
jonny@wildfrontiers.co.uk.
Pallavi Shah See Super-Agents.

INDIA AND SRI LANKA
Carole A. Cambata
Bhutan. Greaves Tours,
Highland Park, Illinois;
ccambata@greavestvl.com.
Ashish Sanghrajka
Kenya. Big Five Tours &
Expeditions, Stuart, Florida;
ashish@big five.com.
INDONESIA
Jarrod Hobson
Southeast Asia. Asia Transpacific
Journeys, Boulder, Colorado;
1-303/443-6789; jarrod@
asiatranspacific.com.
JAPAN
Noriko Townsend
Banteay Srei, a
10th-century Khmer
temple outside Siem
Reap, Cambodia.

Southeast Asia. Altour American
Express Travel/Japan In Style,
Fort Collins, Colorado; noriko.
townsend@altour.com.
Duff Trimble
Asia
Years as agent 13. Wabi-Sabi

Japan, Toronto; 1-647/477-1711;
duff@wabi-sabijapan.com.
BURMA
CHINA
Rebecca Mazzaro
Stan Godwyn
MALDIVES

India. Asia Transpacific
Journeys, Boulder, Colorado;
1-303/443-6789; rebecca@
asiatranspacific.com.

Asia. TravelStore, Sacramento,
California; 1-916/830-5511; stan.g@
travelstore.com.
Justin Parkinson
CAMBODIA
See Super-Agents.
Andy Booth
Years as agent 9. ABOUTAsia
Travel, Siem Reap, Cambodia;
855-12/338-872; a.booth@
aboutasiatravel.com.
Guy Rubin
CHINA AND TIBET
Mei Zhang
Years as agent 14. Other specialties
Southeast Asia and North Korea.

United Arab Emirates. Linara
Travel, Eagle, Idaho; 1-208/3921445; justin@linaratravel.com.
EMERGING ASIA
New hotels and
experiences are taking
travelers off the beaten
path in Asia. Near the city
of Dali, in Chinas Yunnan
province, a recently
completed road circles the
alpine Er Hai Lake, below
the towering Cangshan
Mountain. T+L A-List
specialist Mei Zhang plans
trips to the area that
include bike rides around
the lake and stays at the
waterside Windoo Resort
(windoo.taobao.com).
According to Southeast
Asia expert Catherine
Heald, the 130-millionyear-old rain forests
of Borneo are increasingly
popular on both the
Malaysian and Indonesian
sides. The native
orangutan and the gigantic
rafflesia flower cant
be seen anywhere else
in the world, she says. Try
the Borneo Rainforest
Lodge (borneonaturetours.
com), in Sabah, Malaysia,
which has added luxe,
glass-walled suites.
Disconnect at Indias new
safari-style Jawai
Leopard Camp
(sujanluxury.com), an ideal
stop between Udaipur
and Jodhpur, says Carole
A. Cambata. The eight
tents are comfortable
and stylish; guests take
two leopard drives a day.
SOUTHEAST ASIA
Catherine Heald
Asia. Remote Lands, New York
City; 1-646/415-8092; catherine.
heald@remotelands.com.
74
S E P T E M B E R 2 014
C H R I S T O P H E R W I S E . I L L U S T R AT I O N B Y C L A R E M A L L I S O N

Hawaii and Macao. West
University Travel, Houston; woo@
hal-pc.org.
Trip Doctor
Strategies
THE
LIST
Europe
Western Europe. Protravel
International, New York City;
1-212/409-9562; nathalie.nagy@
protravelinc.com.
Ellison Poe
India. Poe Travel, Little Rock,
Arkansas; 1-501/376-4171; epoe@
poetravel.com.
FRANCE
Murielle Blanchard
Italy. Black Pearl Luxury Services,
Salt Lake City; 1-801/483-6533;
murielle@blackpearlservices.com.
Bob Preston
Italy and Switzerland.
EuroPanache, New York City;
bob.preston@europanache.com.
Turkey and Italy. TrueGreece,

Maroussi, Greece; 44-203/026-1176;
christos@truegreece.com.
Petros Zissimos
Turkey. Hellenic Holidays,
New York City; 1-212/944-8288;
pzissimos@hellenicholidays.com.
IRELAND
Carol Cornell
Years as agent 30. Covington
Travel, Fort Wayne, Indiana;
1-260/402-6789; carolc@covington
travelinc.com.
ITALY
Joyce Falcone
Years as agent 19.
The Italian Concierge,
Far Hills, New Jersey; 1-970/5443799; info@italianconcierge.com.
Emily FitzRoy
GERMANY
Years as agent 17. Bellini Travel,

London; 44-20/7602-7602;
emily@bellinitravel.com.
Virginia Giordano
Andrea Grisdale
Years as agent 20. Culture Trip

Germany, Berlin; 49-30/305-3890;
info@culturetrip.de.
Years as agent 22. IC Bellagio,

Bellagio, Italy; 39-031/952-059;
andrea@icbellagio.com.
GREECE
Uri Harash
Mina Agnos
Turkey, Spain and Italy. Travelive,
Bloomfield, New Jersey; 1-973/7833610; mina@travelive.com.
Christos Stergiou
The Mirror Room

restaurant at the
Rosewood London.
Years as agent 15. Perfetto Traveler,

Rome; 39-345/040-6396;
info@perfettotraveler.com.
Beth Rubin
Years as agent 14. Select Italy,
Chicago; 1-312/664-4200;
beth@selectitaly.com.
Marjorie Shaw
specialty Family travel in Italy.
Insiders Italy, Rome; 1-914/4701612; info@insidersitaly.com.
PARIS
Yaron Yarimi
Italy. Frosch, New York City;
1-212/784-0391; yaron.yarimi@
frosch.com.
RUSSIA
Greg Tepper
Eastern Europe. Exeter
International, Tampa, Florida;
1-813/251-5355 ; greg@exeter
international.com.
SCANDINAVIA
Tor Jensen
THE LOCAL TAKE

A quest for insider access in Europe has advisors
digging deep into their little black books to create
one-of-a-kind experiences that include face time with
locals. In Italy, Perfetto Travelers Uri Harash set
up a private workshop with a painting restorer,
who let the client assist on a piece by Renaissance artist
Tintoretto. In Russia, this could mean spending
an afternoon with a top curator at the State
Hermitage, care of A-Lister Greg Tepper. And Virginia
Giordano of Culture Trip Germany planned a dinner
with the former head of the East German Secret
Police for clients interested in the Cold War.

specialty Southeast Asia.
Jensen World Travel, Wilmette,
Illinois; 1-847/256-5550;
tor@jensenworldtravel.com.
SCOTLAND
Claire Schoeder
England explorations. Century
Travel, Atlanta; 1-404/478-8888;
claire@centurytvl.com.
SPAIN
Virginia Irurita
Food and wine. Made for Spain,
Madrid; 34/91-448-7275;
virginia@madeforspain.com.
SPAIN AND PORTUGAL
Joel A. Zack
See Super-Agents.
SWITZERLAND
Ilene Koenig
Years as agent 29. Lets Travel (a
division of Plaza Travel), Santa
Monica, California; 1-310/451-5805;
ilene@letstravel-sm.com.
UNITED KINGDOM
Ellen LeCompte
specialty Paris. Brownell Travel,
Richmond, Virginia; 1-804/353-0075;
ellenl@brownelltravel.com.
Linda M. Raymer
Switzerland and Italy. Travelink,
American Express Travel,
Nashville; 1-615/277-5146;
linda.raymer@travelink.com.
Susie Worthy
Paris. NoteWorthy Events,
London; 44-20/3051-5165;
susie@noteworthy.co.uk.
WESTERN EUROPE
Anne Morgan Scully

See Super-Agents.
Jim Strong
& Nancy Strong
See Super-Agents.
76
S E P T E M B E R 2 014
J A M E S M E R R E L L . I L L U S T R AT I O N B Y C L A R E M A L L I S O N
CENTRAL EUROPE
Nathalie Nagy
key
Fairmont Peace Hotel, Shanghai
Fairmont Singapore
happiness
Unlock more time to craft the perfect holiday in Asia
at a Fairmont Hotel or Resort. And the best part is:
you already have the key. Pay for your stay with an
American Express Card, and a complimentary night* is
yours plus US$25 Resort Credit.
From the grandeur of Shanghai and dynamism of
Beijing, to the cosmopolitan sights of Singapore, you
can find Fairmonts understated elegance in Asias most
enriching cities. Each property delivers a tailored guest
experience, one that will shape memories to last you a
lifetime. Heres to opening the door to a great stay.
Fairmont Makati
All legendary stories have a beginning. Start yours when you visit
www.fairmont.com/axpapac or call 001 800 0441 1414 with the promotion code
PMXP to make a reservation.
*Terms and conditions:
(1) Offer is valid for stays between 1 July 2014 and 31 March 2015 (both dates inclusive), when you book between
now and 31 December 2014. (2) Offer is bookable via central reservation numbers found on www.fairmont.com/
contact-us/morenumbers or online at: www.fairmont.com/axpapac. Promotion Code PMXP must be provided
at time of booking. (3) Bookings are subject to availability of rooms at time of booking. Advanced reservations
required. (4) To be eligible for the offer, reservations must be made and paid for with any American Express Card.
(5) Card Members must stay at least two, three, four or five consecutive paid nights to receive the complimentary night. Minimum night stay to enjoy the complimentary night varies by property. (6) Reservations must be a
consecutive night stay at one hotel to qualify. (7) Rates are subject to local taxes and service charges. (8) Offer
cannot be combined with other offers or promotions. (9) Cancellation policies vary by property and charges may
apply. (10) One (1) $25 USD Resort Credit per stay to be used on food and beverage, internet, long distance calls,
in-room movies, golf, or spa. Hotel Credit has no cash value and cannot be applied toward the daily room rate,
or for Third-party activities billed to the room. (11) Hotel credit will be applied toward the guestroom bill prior to
departure upon check out. (12) Hotel credit cannot be applied to Fairmont Store or other retail outlet purchases
within the property. (13) Black-out dates apply and vary by properties. For more details, visit www.fairmont.com/
promotions/limited-access/ (14) Offer does not apply to existing bookings or group bookings. (15) Fulfilment of
the offer is the sole responsibility of Fairmont Hotels & Resorts.
Trip Doctor
Strategies
THE
LIST
Caribbean
Destination weddings. Andavo
Travel, Birmingham, Alabama;
1-205/623-2217; margie.hand@
andavotravel.com.
Janet McLaughlin
Italy. Provident Travel, Cincinnati;

1-513/533-7867; jmclaughlin@
providenttravel.com.
Liz Sadie Sutton

Years as agent 37. Alabama World
Travel/Sutton & Associates,
Montgomery, Alabama; 1-334/2602482; liz@awtinc.com.
The pool at Casas del XVI, in Santo

Domingo, Dominican Republic.
Africa + the Middle East

AFRICA
Sandy Cunningham
Luxury and family travel. Outside
Go, Santa Fe, New Mexico; sandy@
outsidego.com.
Africa Adventure Company,

Fort Lauderdale, Florida;
1-954/491-8877; safari@
africanadventure.com.
Kent Redding
See Super-Agents.
Years as agent 13. Africa Adventure

Consultants, Denver; kent@
adventuresinafrica.com.
Michael Lorentz
Jackie Rush
Years as agent 29. Passage to

Africa, Cape Town; 27-82/895-8527;
ml@passagetoafrica.com.

Jordan. Frosch, Washington,
D.C.; 1-202/966-4111; jackie.rush@
frosch.com.
Lisa Lindblad
Dana Welch
MIDDLE EAST
Jean Newman Glock

Years as agent 3. JNG Worldwide,
Washington, D.C.; 1-703/314-9595;
jean@jngworldwide.com.
MOROCCO
Michael Diamond
Years as agent 13.
Other specialty Turkey.
Heritage Tours Private Travel,
New York City; 1-212/206-8400.
michael@htprivatetravel.com.
NAMIBIA

Adventure travel. The Travel
Society, Denver; 1-303/563-6225;
dana@travelsociety.com.
Sunit Sanghrajka
Chris Liebenberg
Years as agent 21. Alluring Africa,

Winter Park, Florida; 1-772/291
7585; sunit@alluringafrica.com.

Botswana. Piper & Heath
Travel, San Diego; chris@
piperandheath.com.
BOTSWANA, ZIMBABWE
AND ZAMBIA
Malaka Hilton
Craig Beal
South Africa. Travel Beyond,
Wayzata, Minnesota;
craigb@travelbeyond.com.
EASTERN AND SOUTHERN AFRICA
Dan Achber
Years as agent 6. Trufflepig,
Toronto; 1-416/628-1272;
dan@trufflepig.com.
Elizabeth Gordon
Years as agent 6. Extraordinary
Journeys, New York City;
1-212/226-7331; elizabeth@
ejafrica.com.
Tim Lapage
Peru and the Galpagos.
Safari Experts, Park City, Utah;
1-435/649-4655; safari@
safariexperts.com.
Mark William Nolting

Madagascar and the Seychelles.
EGYPT

Jordan and the United Arab
Emirates. Admiral Travel
International, Sarasota, Florida;
1-941/951-1801; malaka@
admiraltravel.com.
SOUTH AFRICA
Tamsyn Fricker
specialty Southern Africa.
Travel Artistry Africa, Houston;
1-281/974-3662; tamsyn@
travelartistryafrica.com.
FAMILY SAFARIS
SOUTHERN AFRICA
Leora Rothschild
Cherri Briggs

Honeymoon safaris. Rothschild
Safaris, Denver; 1-303/756-2525;
leora@rothschildsafaris.com.

The Seychelles and Indian Ocean
islands. Explore, Inc., Steamboat
Springs, Colorado; 1-970/871-0065;
cherri@exploreafrica.net.
ISRAEL
Rachel Epstein
Julian Harrison

Spain and group travel. Frosch,
New York City; 1-212/404-6300;
rachel.epstein@frosch.com.

East and central Africa. Premier
Tours, Philadelphia; julianh@
premiertours.com.
KENYA AND TANZANIA
Teresa Sullivan
Volker Altvater
specialty South Africa. Big Five
Tours & Expeditions, Stuart,
Florida; volker@big ve.com.

East Africa and Indian Ocean
islands. Mango African Safaris,
Portland, Oregon; 1-503/282-9009;
info@mangosafari.com.
AFRICAS NEW
CLASSICS
What are the camps and
lodges that safari
specialists have their eyes
on? Dan Achber, of
Trufflepig, is excited about
Chinzombo (normancarr
safaris.com), in Zambias
South Luangwa National
Park: Its beautiful and
impeccably finishedthe
complete package. Cherri
Briggs cites the new
Anabezi Luxury Tented
Camp (anabezi.com), in
the countrys Lower
Zambezi National Park, for
its untouched landscape
and abundance of wildlife.
Teresa Sullivan
recommends the Selinda
Explorers Camp
(greatplainsconservation.
com), set in a prime
Botswana concession:
The guiding and the
privacy are the same
as at the concessions luxe
sister camp, but at a
fraction of the price.
In Tanzania, Kent Redding
likes Kwihala Camp
(asiliaafrica.com), set in the
up-and-coming Ruaha
National Park. And Volker
Altvater says Richard
Bransons Mahali Mzuri
(mahalimzuri.virgin.com)
camp in the Masai
Mara brings new levels of
comfort to Kenyas
premier wildlife area.
78
S E P T E M B E R 2 014
C O U R T E S Y O F C A S A S D E L X V I . I L L U S T R AT I O N B Y C L A R E M A L L I S O N
Margie Hand
Tangs Orchard Lucky Plaza
Paragon
Shopping
and Medical
Centre
Knightsbridge
al
Ex
pr
e ss
w ay
The
Centrepoint
Robinsons
ad
Orcha rd Ro
Orchard Road
Wisma
Takashimaya
Shopping
Centre
Orchard
MRT
O rc
250
h a rd
Bou
leva
rd
500
Mandarin
Gallery
Orchard Link
ION
rchard
tr
Bideford Road
ad
Scotts Ro
en
Cathay
Cineleisure
Orchard
313 @
Somerset
Som
erse
te r
Exe
750 m
a
t Ro
Ro a
t
erse
Som T
MR
Trip Doctor
Strategies
Australia,
New Zealand +
the South Pacific
New Zealand. Camelback Odyssey
Travel, Phoenix; 1-602/889-5902;
cassandrab@camelbacktravel.com.
Suzy Mercien-Ferol
New Zealand. Touring Treasures,
Brighton, Australia; 61-7/3102-3252;
suzy.mercien@touringtreasures.com.
Susanne Hamer
specialties Maldives and the
Seychelles. TravelStore,
Los Angeles; 1-310/689-5411;
susanne.h@travelstoreusa.com.
NEW ZEALAND
Jean-Michel Jefferson
FRENCH POLYNESIA
Years as agent 13. Ahipara

Luxury Travel, Central Otago,
New Zealand; 64-3/447-3558;
jean-michel@ahipara.com.
Robin Turner
Donna Thomas

Maldivian islands. American
Express Travel, Chicago;
robin.l.turner@aexp.com.

Australia. New Zealand Travel,
Langhorne, Pennsylvania;
nztravel@aol.com.
Biking at the
new Brando resort,
on Tetiaroa Island,
in French Polynesia.
DIVING
Robert Becker
Adventure. Protravel
International/Beckersphere, New
York City; 1-212/755-4550; robert.
becker@protravelinc.com.
FLYFISHING
Betsy Donley
Special Interest
ADVENTURE
BUSINESS TRAVEL
Betty Jo Currie
Steve Orens
Mollie Fitzgerald

Africa. Currie & Co. Travels
Unlimited, Atlanta; 1-404/335-0286;
bettyjo@curriecotravels.com.

Family travel and the Hawaiian
islands. Plaza Travel, Encino,
California; 1-818/990-4053; steve@
plazatravel.com.

India and Southeast Asia.
Frontiers International Travel,
Gibsonia, Pennsylvania; 1-724/9351577; mollie@frontierstravel.com.
Jennifer WilsonButtigieg
FOOD AND WINE
Brooke Garnett
Australia. Absolute Travel,
New York City; 1-212/627-1950;
bgarnett@absolutetravel.com.
Tom Marchant
Years as agent 8. Black Tomato,
London; 1-646/558-3644;
tom@blacktomato.com.
Susan Sparks
Years as agent 27. Points of Interest
Travel, Aspen, Colorado; 1-970/
925-5855; susan@poitraveler.com.
Doris White
Europe. Cadence Travel,
La Jolla, California; 1-858/551-4560;
doris@doristrips.com.
AIR TRAVEL
Michael Holtz
Australia and Asia. SmartFlyer,
New York City; 1-212/268-9088;
michael@smartflyer.com.
80

Adventure. Camelback Odyssey
Travel, Phoenix; 1-602/266-4000;
betsyd@camelbacktravel.com.
S E P T E M B E R 2 014

Family travel. Valerie Wilson
Travel, New York City; 1-212/5921210; jenniferwb@vwti.com.
CULTURE/
EDUCATION
Margery Hunter
Europe. Rudi Steele Travel,
Dallas; 1-214/522-2782; margery@
rudisteele.com.
DESTINATION
CELEBRATIONS
John Clifford
Lynda Turley Garrett

Australia and New Zealand.
Alpine Travel of Saratoga,
Saratoga, California; 1-408/3793853; lyndat@alpine-travel.com.
GAY AND
LESBIAN TRAVEL
David Rubin
Destination celebrations.
DavidTravel, Corona del Mar,
California; 1-949/427-0199;
david@davidtravel.com.
GOLF

Gay and lesbian travel.
International Travel
Management, San Diego;
1-619/299-2359; john@international
travelmanagement.com.
Jani Miller
Jack S. Ezon
HOTELS
See Super-Agents.

Adventure. Central Travel, Toledo,
Ohio; 1-419/471-2800; jani@
centraltravel.com.
Peter S. Carideo
Multigenerational travel.
CRC Travel, Chicago; 1-773/5253800, ext. 22; peter@crctravel.com.
Valerie Ann Wilson

See Super-Agents.
Bobby Zur
Southern Africa. Travel Artistry,
Franklin Lakes, New Jersey;
1-201/848-4113; bobby@
travelartistry.com.
LUXURY TRAVEL
David Lowy
Private jet travel. Renshaw
Travel, Vancouver; 1-604/733-1010
dlowy@renshawtravel.com.
SPAS AND WELLNESS
Karen Benson
Adventure. Camelback Odyssey
Travel, Phoenix; 1-602/266-4000
karenb@camelbacktravel.com.
VALUE/AFFORDABLE
TRAVEL
Kathleen OConnell
Multigenerational travel. Frosch,
Deerfield, Illinois; 1-847/948-5300;
kathleen.oconnell@frosch.com.
WEDDINGS
AND HONEYMOONS
Harlan DeBell &

Kara Bebell
Years as agent 17. The Travel
Siblings at Tzell Travel Group, New
York City; harland@tzell.com and
karab@tzell.com.
Peter Lloyd
Italy and cruises. Century
Travel, Atlanta; 1-404/478-8888;
peter@centurytvl.com.
COURTESY OF THE BR ANDO
AUSTRALIA
Cassandra Bookholder
THE
LIST
Mexico + Central + South America

ARGENTINA, CHILE
AND URUGUAY
Colchagua Camp,
in Chiles
Colchagua Valley.
Maita Barrenechea
See Super-Agents.
ARGENTINA AND CHILE
Jordan Harvey
Years as agent 5. Knowmad
Adventures, Minneapolis;
jordan@knowmadadventures.com.
BRAZIL
Martin Frankenberg
Years as agent 14. Matuet, So
Paulo, Brazil; 55-11/3071-4515;
martin@matuete.com.
Paul Irvine
specialty Argentina. Dehouche,
Rio de Janeiro; 55-21/2512-3895;
paul.irvine@dehouche.com.
CENTRAL AND
SOUTH AMERICA
Emmanuel Burgio
Mediterranean. Blue Parallel,
Potomac, Maryland; emmanuel@
blueparallel.com.
CHILE
Brian Pearson
Argentina and Uruguay.
Santiago Adventures, Santiago,
Chile; 56-2/2244-2750; bpearson@
santiagoadventures.com.
GALPAGOS
MEXICO
Zachary Rabinor
Central America. Journey Mexico,
Puerto Vallarta, Mexico;
52-322/225-9821; zach@
journeymexico.com.
PERU AND BOLIVIA
Marisol Mosquera
Years as agent 17. Aracari Travel,
Lima, Peru; 51-1/651-2424; marisol@
aracari.com.
Beth Jenkins
Honeymoons. McCabe World
Travel, McLean, Virginia;
1-703/762-5048; beth@
mccabeworld.com.
Eric Sheets
Argentina. Latin Excursions,
Aventura, Florida; 1-305/356-8488,
ext. 100; eric@latinexcursions.com.
Brian Morgan
SOUTH AMERICA
SOUTH AMERICAN
FOOD & WINE

Peru. Adventure Life, Missoula,
Montana; 1-406/541-2677; brian.
morgan@adventurelife.com.
Barkley Hickox
Liz Caskey

Italy. Indagare Travel, New York
City; 1-212/988-2611; barkleyh@
indagare.com.

Adventure. Liz Caskey Culinary &
Wine Experiences, Santiago, Chile;
56-2/2632-1511; liz@lizcaskey.com.
Cruising
SMALL AND
LARGE SHIPS
Scott Kertes
specialty Group cruising.
Hartford Holidays Travel,
Garden City, New York; 1-516/7466670; scott@hartfordholidays.com.
Paul Niskanen
Southern Africa. Cruise Masters/
Concierge Travel Advisors,
Portland, Oregon; pauln@fine
voyages.com.
Ruth Turpin
River cruises. Cruises Etc.,
Fort Worth, Texas; 1-817/732-6991;
ruth@cruisesetctravel.com.
Family Travel
Mary Ann Ramsey

See Super-Agents.
COURTESY OF COLCHAGUA CAMP
SMALL SHIPS
Julia P. Douglas
Sam McClure
Kathryn Sudeikis
Betsy Patton

Europe. Jet Set World Travel,
Chicago; 1-312/574-1181; julia@
jetsetworldtravel.com.
Years as agent 15. Small

World Travel, Austin, Texas;
1-512/495-9495; sam@small
world.travel.

India. Acendas, Mission, Kansas;
1-913/671-7700, ext. 325; ksudeikis@
acendas.com.
Years as agent 36. Hurley Travel

Experts, Naples, Florida;
1-239/594-7400; betsy@
travelexperts.com.
Jessica Griscavage
Kara Slater
Kimberly Wilson Wetty
Marcella Rappoport

Honeymoons. McCabe World
Travel, McLean, Virginia; jessica@
mccabeworld.com.

Honeymoons. SmartFlyer, Los
Angeles; 1-310/493-5508; kara@
smartflyer.com.

Cruises. Valerie Wilson Travel,
New York City; 1-212/592-1218;
kimberlyww@vwti.com.

Private jet travel. Ovation Travel,
New York City; 1-212/329-7260;
mrappoport@ovationtravel.com.
Trip Doctor
Tech
Listen
Up!
Our five favorite
new headphones, all
sound-checked by
T+L tech correspondent
Tom Samiljan, deliver
top-notch audioand
serious style points.
FOR THE
AESTHETE
Skullcandy Crusher
Available in 10 colors
and patterns, this overear model delivers on
personality. But its
not all about looks. A
built-in amp lets you
turn up the bass with a
tiny dial, and twin drivers
(designated speakers for
high and low frequencies)
keep sound balanced.
US$100, skullcandy.com.
Best Buds
Two pocket-size options when space is at a premium.
NAD Viso HP20 (near left) The venerable brands in-ear debut has a feature
called RoomFeel, which offers such good sound separation, it rivals the full-size
models above. US$169, nadelectronics.com. Monoprice Enhanced Active Noise
Cancelling Earphones (far left) Affordable, powerful and effective against all sorts
of noise pollution, theyll last 50 hours on a single AA battery. US$80, monoprice.com.
S E P T E M B E R 2 014
FOR THE
ROAD WARRIOR
V-Moda XS
Made out of bendable
Steelflex, V-Modas
headband is virtually
indestructible. (The same
goes for the Kevlarreinforced, tangle-free
cord.) As for your listening
experience, expect a
studio-worthy output that
does justice to complex
instrumentations. Bonus:
This already-petite model
collapses for maximum
space efficiency.
US$212, vmoda.com.
P H OTOGR A P H ED BY DA N N Y K IM
E A R B U D S , F R O M L E F T: C O U R T E S Y O F M O N O P R I C E ; C O U R T E S Y O F N A D
FOR THE
TECH LOVER
Beats Studio Wireless
The best wireless
headphones on the market,
Beats connect via Bluetooth
and offer active noise
cancellation and powerful
bass tones. A single USB
charge lasts up to 12
hours, and control buttons
on the frame make it easy
to toggle between tracks.
US$380, beatsbydre.com.
FOR THE
AUDIOPHILE
Bose SoundTrue
Memory-foam liners
maximize comfort, a
fold-flat design makes
for compact storage, and
a built-in remote lets you
switch between music
and phone calls. And then,
of course, theres Boses
signature full-bodied
and well-defined audio.
US$180, bose.com.
82
FOR THE
SENSITIVE LISTENER
Able Planet Linx Fusion
With a state-of-the-art
system that uses haptic
technology, this pair
channels sound not just
through your ears but also
via skin and bone. The big
advantage? Music thats
just as robust and clear at
decibel levels that are far
lower than normala boon
to your long-term hearing.
US$350, ableplanet.com.
Trip Doctor
Planning
by Diana Hubbell
Q+A
IS IT WORTH TAKING A VACATION IN SOUTHEAST ASIA DURING

THE RAINY SEASON? WHAT IS THERE TO DO?
Theres a deluge of fun travel options across the region even during the soggier months of the year.
Try one of these four trips to keep the green season from raining on your parade.
Nong Khiaw
100 Waterfalls
Adventure Trail,
in Laos.
Cabana
pool bar at
the Banyan Tree
Macau.
F R O M L E F T: C O U R T E S Y O F B A N YA N T R E E , M A C A U ; C O U R T E S Y O F T I G E R T R A I L S
macau
Casino-hop till you drop
Youll never notice a downpour
amid the glitz and glitter of the
Cotai Strip. Asias answer to
Vegas has been booming to the
tune of US$45 billion a year and
all that cash keeps cropping up in
wilder ways. In 2017, Zaha Hadids
surreal creation for City of
Dreams will open, as will the
US$3.9 billion Lisboa Palace with
a Karl Lagerfeld-designed hotel.
In the meantime, never fear if the
weather turns foulyou can stay
warm and dry at the Banyan
Tree Macau, where even the
most affordable rooms offer
sweeping views. banyantree.com;
doubles from MOP3,099.
indonesia
Embark on a spa journey
Falling raindrops melt into
soothing background music as
masseuses gently knead away
your tension over the course of
three days. At the spa at The
Chedi Sakala, a newly opened
resort in one of Balis quietest
havens, the products are organic
and the surroundings are extra
indulgent. Your retreat begins
with a two-hour-plus
combination of crystal body
polish, bath ritual and facial,
then continues on days two and
three with Balinese, Himalayan
stone and other muscle-melting
massages. ghmhotels.com;
three-day spa ritual package from
Rp3,380,000.
the philippines
Dive beneath the surface
Whats a little extra water when
youre already wearing a full
wetsuit? Plunge into the Bohol
Sea for an exploration of at least
seven reef-fringed islands such as
marine sanctuary Apo Island and
dark-sand Dauin, teeming with
skeleton shrimp. Everything
from frogsh to whale sharks to
pygmy seahorses call this
biological hot spot home. And
since it can only be reached by
liveaboard boatslike the S/Y
Philippine Siren, a luxury vessel
hand-crafted from iron and
teaktheres nary another tourist
in sight. sireneet.com; six- to
10-night diving trips to Southern
Visayas from 1,950, including all
meals and equipment.
laos
Go chasing waterfalls
Green season isnt a
euphemismduring this time of
year the jungles come alive in all
possible shades of emerald. Its
perfect for trekking, particularly
when you march past mighty
waterfalls that swell
spectacularly with the extra
rainfall. On this journey from
Tiger Trails, an eco-friendly
tour operator that supports local
Lao communities, youll climb
along a series of increasingly
impressive cascades, culminating
in one spectacular 20-meter
aquatic avalanche. Tiger Trails;
laos-adventures.com; one-day
Nong Khiaw - 100 Waterfalls
adventure trail from US$74,
inclusive of food and guide.
S E P T E M B E R 2 014
83
Trip Doctor
by Mimi Lombardo
Packing
Q+A
IM TRAVELING TO
THE ITALIAN LAKES IN
MIDSEPTEMBER
FOR MY HONEYMOON.
ANY WARDROBE
SUGGESTIONS?
A wool-blend
dress from
Diane von
Furstenberg
(US$498) is
perfect for a
night out.
catherine gluszek,
via e-mail
Fall in northern Italy
calls for chic attire that
transitions well from
day to night. Opt for
layering pieces that dont
skimp on style.
Versaces
leather handbag
(US$3,895) is big
enough to hold
all your essentials,
and the bold
color is surprisingly
versatile.
Wrinkles are part

of the design of this
Frank & Eileen
Italian cotton shirt
(US$178), so it can be
worn with ease.
Channel
fashion icon Sophia
Loren with Isabel
Marant par
Oliver Peoples
sunglasses
(US$365).
Rebecca Taylor
trousers (US$350)
are a simple dinner
staple, and
the ponte stretch
fabric will keep
you cozy in-flight.
Manolo Blahnik
embellished
mules (price upon
request) are a
great accent to
any ensemble.
W H E R E T O S TAY Villa dEste (villadeste.com; doubles from 740) is a grande dame that has hosted everyone from Greta Garbo to George Clooney.
Enjoy a cocktail at the terrace bar after a dip in the floating pool, which sits on top of Lake Como. At the Grand Hotel Tremezzo
(grandhoteltremezzo.com; doubles from 500), couples can treat themselves to Espa aromatherapy massages and fondue dinners at LEscale wine bars
cantina (cheese fondue for two 48). Book a recently remodeled rooftop suite with a private deck, Jacuzzi and 360-degree lake views.
84
S E P T E M B E R 2 014
P H OTOG R A P H ED BY VIC TO R P R A DO
S T Y L I S T: B I L L L A U G H L I N
For a tailored
approach to
outerwear, try
Lafayette 148s
lightweight
jacket (US$468).
H;@KL;D7J;?DIJOB;
B[jkifWcf[hoekm_j^ekhH[`kl[dWj[_dIjob[fWYaW][
m^[h[h[ijWdZh[bWn_ij^[^_]^b_]^je\oekhijWo$Oekh
j^h[[d_]^jiijWo_dYbkZ[idejed["Xkjjme_dZkb][dj
jhWZ_j_edWbcWiiW][jh[Wjc[dj"ZW_boXh[Wa\Wij"WdZ
h[jkhdW_hfehjjhWdi\[hi$
ENJOY YOUR PERSONAL RETREAT WITH

OUR EXCLUSIVE OFFER STARTING FROM
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Conditions apply.
COMPLIMENTARY8K<<;J BREAKFAST?
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Trip Doctor
Deals
T+L R E A D E R S PECI A LS
THIS MONTHS BEST DEALS

From a royal slumber to a body-sculpting massage, these offers designed
to make you feel good both inside and out.
s p ec i a l
hong kong
hk$13,880
p e r n igh t
A Silvermine suite at Hullett House, in Hong Kong.
HONG KONG A Royale Getaway

from Hullett House (hulletthouse.
com), a white-stucco heritage
building on Canton Road. The
Deal A stay in a Silvermine suite.
The Highlight A reinvigorating
royal repose on a Visprings Regal
Superb mattress made of fine
horsehair and British fleece wool,
designed to improve sleep
quality. Cost HK$13,880,
double, through December 31.
Savings 7 percent.
SINGAPORE So Relaxing
package from The Singapore
Resort & Spa Sentosa
86
S E P T E M B E R 2 014
(singaporeresortsentosa.com),
where the worlds largest
So SPA debuted in July in a
6,000-square-meter heritage
building. The Deal A stay in a
Luxury room. The Highlight
A choice of any 60-minute
massage per person from the
la carte treatment menu,
including the signature bodytoning So Exhilarating massage.
Cost From S$485, double,
ongoing. Savings 51 percent.
PHUKET Romantic Villa
Getaway from Mvenpick Resort
& Spa Karon Beach Phuket
(moevenpick-hotels.com), 10
kilometers south of Patong. The
S u pe r S ave r
SIEM REAP
Destination Sojourn
from Sojourn Boutique
Villas (sojournsiemreap.
com), a rice paddiesshrouded retreat. The
Deal Two nights in an
Apsara villa. The
Highlight A private
three-course
Cambodian dinner for
two. Cost US$279
(US$140 per night),
double, through
September 30.
Savings 61 percent.
Deal Three nights in a Deluxe

Garden villa. The Highlight A
150-minute Romantic Harmony
spa package for two. Cost From
US$1,500 (US$500 per night),
double, through March 31, 2015.
Savings 30 percent.
CHINA Introductory rate from
Shangri-La Hotel, Tianjin
(shangri-la.com), with stunning
views of the citys colonial
structure-lined riverbank. The
Deal A stay in a Deluxe River
View room. The Highlight
Twenty percent savings on a spa
treatment at CHI. Cost RMB988,
double, book by December 31.
Savings 30 percent.
COURTESY OF HULLET T HOUSE
Wellness
Trip Doctor
Deals
beach overlooking Straits of

Malacca. The Deal A stay in a
Deluxe room. The Highlight
Free meals from the kids menu
for children up to 12 years old
accompanied by a paying adult at
The Eatery. Cost From RM280,
double, through October 31.
Savings 61 percent.
Active
Culture
VIETNAM Summer Promotion
2014 from Au Co Cruises
(aucocruises.com), exploring
the picturesque Gulf of Tonkin,
from the bays of Halong, Lan Ha
and Bai Tu Long to Cat Ba Island.
The Deal Two nights in a Deluxe
Double cabin. The Highlight
A complimentary night stay at
Sofitel Legend Metropole or a
full-day Hanoi city tour. Cost
US$1,028 per person (US$514
per night), through September
30. Savings 24 percent.
HONG KONG MAMMA MIA!
FANtastic Hotel Stay from The
Landmark Mandarin Oriental
(mandarinoriental.com), a short
walk from Hong Kong Airport
Express station. The Deal Two
nights in an L900 Landmark
suite. The Highlights Two
front-row tickets to MAMMA MIA!
show; two backstage passes to
go behind the scenes and meet
the cast and crew, for those who
stay through visitors-permitted
Wednesday or Friday nights.
Cost From HK$22,200 (from
HK$11,100 per night), double,
88
S E P T E M B E R 2 014
from September 26-October 26.

Savings 40 percent.
Romance
CHINA Romantic Getaway from
Sheraton Huzhou Hot Spring
Resort (sheraton.com), an iconic,
ring-like hotel complex on the
shore of Lake Tai, Chinas third
largest freshwater lake. The
Deal A stay in a Studio suite.
The Highlights RMB200 daily
spa credits per person with
access to a variety of hot spring
pools for two. Cost RMB2,888,
Savings 30 percent.
INDONESIA Colonial Romance
from The Sanchaya (thesanchaya.
com), a showcase of Southeast
Asian cultures in Bintan. The
Deal Two nights in a Lawan villa.
The Highlights A 105-minute
deep-tissue, pain-relieving
Balinese massage for two; plus, a
take-home massage oil set.
Cost From US$980 (US$490
per night), double, through
October 31. Savings 31 percent.
THAILAND The Green Season
Escape from Soneva Kiri (soneva.
com), sporting Koh Koods only

14-inch Celestron telescope for a
closer look at the clear night sky.
The Deal Two nights in a Pool
Villa suite. The Highlight Enjoy
sweets with your sweet with
complimentary handmade ice
creamavailable in over 60
locally inspired flavorsand
delicious homemade chocolates,
including Fiona Scioltis
forest-foraged, locally sourced
Botanical Chocolates. Cost From
US$1,580 (US$790 per night),
double, through October 31.
Savings 27 percent.
Beach
PATTAYA Introductory rate
from Hotel Baraquda Pattaya
(hotelbaraquda.com), a rebranded
property with one of the citys
funkiest swimming pools. The
Deal A stay in a Deluxe room.
The Highlight Twenty percent
discount on food and beverages.
Cost Bt3,400, double, through
October 31. Savings 10 percent.
PENANG Our Weekday,
Your Holiday from Four Points
by Sheraton (starwoodhotels.
com), on Penangs secluded
MALAYSIA Stay and Play

package from The Westin
Langkawi Resort & Spa
(westinlangkawi.com), earth-tone
rooms and suites, with views of
the Andaman Sea. The Deal Two
nights in a Premium Garden View
room. The Highlight Two
nine-hole rounds of golf for two
at 99 East Golf Club with green
fees, buggy fees, insurance and
transfers included. Cost From
RM1,000 (RM500 per night),
Savings 35 percent.
HONG KONG Summer au
Feminin package from Hyatt
Regency Hong Kong (hongkong.
tsimshatsui.hyatt.com), set atop
K11 Art Mall with access to two
metro stations. The Deal A stay
in a Standard room. The
Highlight Exclusive shopping
privileges at K11 Art Mall,
including a Paul & Joe skincare
sample, a crme brle upon
HK$300 purchase at Paul
Lafayet, and 20 percent discount
on regular-priced handbags at
ISCOV. Cost HK$2,000, double,
through September 30. Savings
10 to 15 percent.
COURTESY OF AU CO CRUISES
An iconic view of Vietnam from aboard an Au Co cruise.
SIEM REAP Luxury Fitness

Retreat from Belmond La
Rsidence dAngkor (belmond.
com), near the Angkor temple
complex. The Deal Seven nights
in a Deluxe room. The Highlights
Daily Angkor Wat International
Half Marathon-prep, boot
camp-style group fitness session
at Siem Reaps temples; and daily
sore-muscle treatment at Kong
Kea Spa. Cost From US$1,895
per person (US$271 per night),
book by November 1 for a stay
from November 30-December 7.
Savings 35 percent.
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Shop
Like
a
La Maison Fenyadi, a concept
store featuring ceramics in
Marrakeshs Industrial Zone
(219 Z.I. Sidi Ghanem;
212-524/336-201).
LocaI
Finding an exquisite handmade souvenir, discovering the

next young designer or unearthing a coo vintage store:
its what we goba shoppers ive (and Instagram) for. Here, T+L spotights
where to browse and bargain in six of the words most styish citieswith
in-the-know tastemakers as guides. By Patrizia Chen, David A. Keeps, Mark Lean, Shane
A LV A R O L E I V A
Mitche, Jane Szita and Gisea Wiiams. Edited by Jacqueine Gifford and Katie James
Hong Kong Amsterda m New Dehi Marrakesh Buenos Aires Los Angeles
S E P T E M B E R 2 014
91
Hong Kong
#shoplikealocal
The Bling Ring

Barney Cheng
(barneycheng.com),
sandwiched in his
colorful creations.
Fashion designer
Barney Cheng shares
his secret list of
bespoke shops.
Menswear La dolce vita-inspired
gentlemens wardrobe at
Moustache (31 Aberdeen St.;
moustachehongkong.com) comes
lined in exquisite vintage silks.
Great value silk chambray
digitally printed scarves are top
nds at MODELE de PRUDENCE
(modeledeprudence.com.hk). I also
like Mayers (Mandarin Oriental, 5
Connaught Rd.; 852/2524-3317)
crocodile loafers and rainbowtoned crocodile business card
holders. The Amourys (307 Pedder
Bldg.; 12 Pedder St.; thearmoury.
com) vast array of umbrellas, ties
and bespoke suits adds intrigue to
any ensemble.
Browsing The best neighborhood
for leisurely window-shopping is
Tai Hang village. Pop into
Feelsogood (4 Second Ln.) to
peruse the vintage furniture, then
stop by Lab Made Liquid
92
S E P T E M B E R 2 014
COURTESY OF BARNEY CHENG
Nitrogen Ice Cream Laboratory
(6 Brown St.; labmade.com.hk) for

a delicious nitro glac.
Jewelry Plan a morning trip to
Jade Street, located on Canton
Road, between Kansu Street and
Jordan Road, for great deals on
jade. I hear even style maven Joyce
Ma shops there. Michelle
Ong-Cheung at Carnet (10 Chater
Rd.; carnet jewellery.com) is Hong
Kongs answer to Joel Arthur
Rosenthal. I also like Prince
Jewellery & Watch (23-25 Nathan
Rd.; princejewellerywatch.com),
where you can buy tasteful
watches and Peonia cut diamonds
by the armful, and Larry Jewelry
(72 Queens Rd. Central;
larryjewelry.com), which carries
my own custom-designed pieces.
Grooming Head to the wellappointed BruneBlonde (1
Harbour Rd.; bruneblonde.com)
for expert shaves and intoxicating
private label hair products. For
the best organic beauty ranges
from around the world, Joyce
Beauty (joyce.com) has it all.
Amsterdam
#shoplikealocal
At Home with
Cok de Rooy
Hutspot (4 Van
Woustraat; hutspot
amsterdam.com) is
a hip concept storeI like
the vibrant atmosphere
and the on-site barbershop.
Youll discover pieces from
emerging designers (plaid
blankets by Flink; Veloretti
bikes). Wonderwood
(3 Rusland; wonderwood.nl)
specializes in furniture
from the 1940s, 50s and
60s. They have more than
100 styles of chairsboth
vintage and new designs.
Marcel Wanders is the
biggest design star Holland
has produced thus far. When
you enter his showroom,
Moooi (187 Westerstraat;
moooi.com), you experience
his world. Its a must.
Good Jeans
Leave the Levis at home: the Dutch are known for
their denim brands, making Amsterdam the perfect
place to pick up a pair with a unique pedigree.
Denham the
Jeanmaker
English expat Jason
Denhams high-end
line combines
premium Japanese
selvage denim with
a traditional approach
to tailoring (leg darts;
signature seven-point
pockets). The flagship
(8 Hobbemastraat;
denhamthejeanmaker.
com) has the largest
selection.
G-Star Raw
Famous for using
unwashed, untreated
fabric, G-Star Raw
(24-28 P.C. Hooftstraat;
g-star.com) produces
boyfriends and
skinnies that are
practically indestructible.
Also look out for
their more grown-up
Marc Newson and
Correct Line ready-towear collections.
Kuyichi
Sustainable organic
cotton and all-natural
indigo dyes are some
of Kuyichis ethical
trademarksbonus
points for the streetstyle cred. Find
them at Maison de
Bonneterie (140-142
Rokin; debonneterie.nl)
and Nukuhiva
(36 Haarlemmerstraat;
nukuhiva.nl).
Kings of Indigo (K.O.I.)

This edgy, hard-to-find
label was started in an
Amsterdam attic; jeans
are made from organic
and recycled materials
and come with a repair
kit. K.O.I. is sold at stores
including Bendorff
(99 Utrechtsestraat;
bendorff.nl) and Sukha
(110 Haarlemmerstraat;
sukha-amsterdam.nl).
Hit the Street: Gerard Doustraat

South of the city center, de Pijp is a hipster neighborhood filled with independent
boutiques. Visit these standouts along one of the main avenues.
Blond Amsterdam
Load up on collectible ceramics
in bright pastels with
cheeky phrases. We especially
like their twist on Delft blue
pottery. 69 Gerard Doustraat;
blond-amsterdam.nl.
94
S E P T E M B E R 2 014
De Kinderfeestwinkel
The European antidote to Toys R
Us, this colorful spot stocks an
eclectic mix of toys, costumes
and gameseverything you need
to host a kids party. 65 Gerard
Doustraat; kinderfeestwinkel.nl.
Charlie & Mary

Find eco-friendly fashion for men
and women (LHerbe Rouge; People
Tree; Toms) at this airy store, which
shares space with the Barrique caf
and rotating pop-up installations.
84 Gerard Doustraat; charliemary.com.
Anna & Nina

Anna de Lanoy Meijer and
Nina Poots boho bazaar is chock-full
of wonderful curiosities: think silk
kimonos, beetle-print stationery and
pineapple-shaped centerpieces.
94 Gerard Doustraat; anna-nina.nl.
C L O C K W I S E F R O M T O P L E F T: C O U R T E S Y O F K I N G S O F I N D I G O ; M I Q U E L G O N Z A L E Z ; C O U R T E S Y O F C O K D E R O O Y; M I Q U E L G O N Z A L E Z 4
The cofounder of interiors

store the Frozen Fountain
(645 Prinsengracht;
frozenfountain.com) shares
his design destinations.
From far
left:
Kings of
Indigo (K.O.I.)
jeans;
Denham the
Jeanmaker.
New Dehi
#shoplikealocal
Olivia Dar fuses the classic style

of her native France with Indias
vivid colors. Her macram belts
add flair to any L.B.D. 5H 1F, Jungi
House, Shahpur Jat; US$59.
En Inde designer
Anupama Sukh
Lalvani creates
Indias capital is paradise

for accessory maximalists
surprising materials and
creative collaborations abound.
This handcrafted
sheet-metal vanity
case with leather
straps from Nappa
Dori reinterprets (and
miniaturizes) the
iconic steamer trunk.
21 Inner Ln.;
nappadori.com;
US$340.
scents
of
p l a ce
Nida Mahmoods love of

psychedelic street style
influenced these Great
Indian Bohemian Tamasha
vinyl totes.
36 Shahpur Jat;
nidamahmood.com;
US$64.
fiercely bold pieces

(such as these
gold-plated cube
bangles) that
transition well
from day to night.
Lalvaniwho
cofounded the line
with Sonal Sood
in 2004works
with raw (not
precious) materials,
including leather,
jute and steel.
Delhi is an old
city with new blood
coming in daily,
she says. Whether
theyre the
Louboutin-clad
or those in leather
kolapuri sandals
both embrace our
aesthetic. What
about India inspires
her? The crazy
contrasts and
belief systems, the
geography and
varying landscapes,
the architecture
of mosques and
Hindu temples,
women in sculpture
and mythology
India caught
between the past
and the future.
125/126 Meharchand
Market, 1F;
91-11/4905-0832;
US$100 each.
One of Code Decos Detour travel series fragrances, Thar in Pink is perfumer Gauri Garodias love song to the rugged
terrain of Rajasthan. I wanted to re-create the colors of the desert sunsetfuchsia, orange and amberso the top note has
the dry, spicy freshness of marigold, Garodia says. It settles into a golden glow, like a bronzer, on your skin. Find it at
Second Floor Studio (417 Shahpur Jat; 91-11/4142-0324; US$116), the creative playpen of Punit Jasuja, located in buzzy
Shahpur Jatan urban village of stylish boutiques, cafs and galleries.
PHILIP FRIEDMAN
Karma
Chameleons
Our outrageous
obsession: 18-karatgold-plated coral-andpearl Gazelle earrings
by Delhi-based designer
Manish Arora for famed
jewelry atelier Amrapali.
39 Khan Market;
amrapalijewels.com;
US$1,029.
Marrakesh
#shoplikealocal
Outside Topolina, in Marrakesh.
One City, Three Enclaves
F R O M T O P : A LV A R O L E I V A ; R I C A R D O C A S E S
Whats trending in Moroccos style capital?

Fashionable insiders walk us through their
favorite neighborhoods.
Industrial Zone
Maryam Montague, the guru
behind cult design blog My
Marrakesh, favors this evolving
area, 20 minutes outside the
city, for its designer ateliers.
Laurence Landon (294 Z.I. Sidi
Ghanem; laurencelandon.com)
creates custom chandeliers with
1920s glamour, Montague says.
I order my tagines at Loun
Cramique (505 Z.I. Sidi Ghanem;
lounmarrakech.com), a showroom
that uses high-quality glaze. Be
sure to stock up on sleek leather

goods at MH (369 Z.I. Sidi
Ghanem; martinehillen.com).
Topolina (436 Z.I. Sidi Ghanem;
212-6/5134-5795; also at 134 Dar El
Bacha, in the medina) sells
ethnic-inspired dresses in classic
silhouettes, coats with colorful
linings, and loafers in a dizzying
array of African fabrics.
Medina
For Kamal Laftimirestaurateur
behind the famous Le Jardin des
pices and the recently debuted

Nomadthe dusty-pink ancient
walls of the medina are home.
The streets and the people
energize me, he says. One of the
places he frequents: Souk
Cherifia (15 Sidi Abdelaziz;
souk-cherifia.com), a mezzanine
of charming tiny boutiques, all
with a seasoned global
sensibility. There are the soft,
handwoven towels at La Maison
Bahira (No. 15); rattan
sun hats and lanterns at Original
Marrakech (No. 4, 1F); or the
casual mens wear at fashion
photographer turned designer
Randall Bachners new store,
Marrakshi Life (No. 1), Laftimi
says. Go with a guide to Souk
Kebir Nerjjarine, where Stall 99
(no phone) sells herbal lotions,
eucalyptus soaps and fragrant
rose oils that will instantly
transport you back to Morocco.
Guliz
In contrast to the labyrinthine
medina, this is a district of wide
boulevards. We walk
everywhere, say expats Samuel
and Caitlin Dowe Sandes,
founders of Popham Design, a
tile studio. Laetitia Trouillet is the
citys go-to personal shopper. Her
atelier, Studio Lalla (5 Rue de
Libert; 212-6/6147-7228),
showcases boho handbags along
with jewelry by Parme Marin,
Caitlin says. Make an
appointment at Fennwerk (148
Ave. Abdelkrim El Khattabi #B4;
fennwerk.com), to peruse Nicolas
Carrs tribal rugs and
Midcentury furniture. Browse
33 Rue Majorelle (33 Rue Yves
Saint Laurent; 33ruemajorelle.com)
for cups and plates by Chabbi Chic
and couture from Noureddine
Amirfinish up at the little caf
for juice and a salad.
Buenos Aires
#shoplikealocal
Cabinet seo
On our site, we sell
these conceptual
metal pieces that
mimic human
anatomyphalanx
necklaces (shown),
heart-shaped
pendants, and
fingerprint-etched
bangles. See
cabinetoseo.com
for store locations.
From left:
Sofa, Catalina
and Luca
Sanchez
Barrenechea.
Tramando
Ive been wearing Martn Churbas
collections for yearshe is a textile artist
and genius when it comes to prints!
He also recently added home dcor to
his flagship boutique in Recoleta.
1973 Rodriguez Pea; tramando.com.
Sister Act
Sofa, Catalina and Luca Sanchez Barrenechea,
founders of underoursky.coman online
mecca for Argentinean fashion and interiors
reveal their B.A. must-haves.
Sofas picks
Lucas picks
Gil Antigedades
For 30 years, Horacio
and Mara Ins Gil
have built an impressive
arsenal of vintage
clothing, jewelry,
tablecloths, fans, parasols,
figurines and more.
412 Humberto 10, 1F;
gilantiguedades.com.ar.
En el Nombre del Postre

In a land where medialunas (croissants)
and alfajores once reigned, Argentines
have developed an addiction to cupcakes
and macarons. This pastry shop, in
Palermo Hollywood, is one of my
favorites. 5547 Soler; enelnombre
delpostre.com.ar.
Dance the Night Away
Patrizia Chen on why tango shoes are a fashionistas best friend.
Ill admit it: Im guilty of hoarding. As a

social tango dancer for many years,
I carry an empty suitcase every time I y
to Buenos Aires, to be lled with dancing
shoes. I wear them to weddings and
cocktail partiesno more agony in tight
stilettos, as these are made with balance
and exibility in mind. An added bonus:
most are around US$100. Comme Il
98
S E P T E M B E R 2 014
Celedonio
From his workshop in the
hidden courtyard of an old
residential building, Celedonio
Lohidoy draws inspiration from
nature and wildlife for his
spectacular costume jewelry
accented with pearls, crystals
and gems from northern
Argentina. 1223 Uruguay,
apt. 8; celedonio.com.ar.
Aire del Sur

This is the ultimate
place to buy wedding gifts.
Marcelo Lucini designs
beautiful furniture and
home accessories, plus
necklaces and cuffs
that incorporate local
wood, leather, deerhorn and
semiprecious stones.
1695 Vicente Lopez,
2F; airedelsur.com.
Faut (1239 Arenales, apt. M; commeilfaut.

com.ar), located in Recoleta, is still the
citys most famous store. Founder Alicia
Muiz was the rst to marry style with
comfort, and her designs (shown) have
the sexinessplumage! sparkle!of
Manolo Blahniks and Jimmy Choos. I
also love the trendy yet durable heels at
Neo Tango (1938 Sarmiento; neotango
shoes.com), in Balvanera, and the more

traditional looks at Flabella (263
Suipacha; abella.com), near the city
center. Ready to watch real people dance
real tango? Head to La Viruta (1366
Armenia; lavirutatango.com), a club
in Palermo Soho where young
and old are on their feet
until ve in the morning.
C L O C K W I S E F R O M T O P L E F T: H A N N A H T H O M S O N ; C O U R T E S Y O F C A B I N E T S E O ; C O U R T E S Y O F T R A M A N D O ; C O U R T E S Y O F A I R E D E L S U R ; C O U R T E S Y O F C O M M E I L F A U T; J A V I E R P I E R I N I 2 ; C O U R T E S Y O F G I L A N T I G U E D A D E S
Catainas picks
Los Angees
3
4
#shoplikealocal
2
West vs. East

A long-standing coastal rivalry is now playing out
between L.A.s top shopping districts.
Heres how two of-the-moment streets stack up.
ROSE AVENUE,
VENICE
C L O C K W I S E F R O M T O P : D A N N Y K I M ; B R I D G E T P I Z Z O ; C O U R T E S Y O F M E & B L U E ; C O U R T E S Y O F T H E G O L D E N S TAT E S T O R E ; J E N N I F E R C A W L E Y; L I LY K I N G ; R E B E C C A J O H N S O N
As Abbot Kinney Boulevard hosts

more designer brands, this
two-block stretch keeps the funky
spirit of Venice alive.
Matters of Space
Founders P. J. Roden and Katerina Gabbro
offer interior design services, plus custom
furnishings and fine arts and crafts.
5005 York Blvd.; mattersofspace.com.
Bughouse Art & Design

A gallery, retail lab and event space by
artists Rebecca Johnson and Jeff Klarin
(his rock-inspired canvases are legendary).
5050 York Blvd.; bughouse.com.
Clothing
ME & Blue
Owner M. E. Ster-Molnar specializes
in wear-anywhere bohemian
tunics and hand-dyed vintage slips.
566 Rose Ave.; meandblue.com.
9
6
Clothing and furniture;

speakeasies and cafsYork
Boulevard is the edgy alternative
to Silver Lake and Echo Park.
Concept Stores
Golden State Store

Youll find tops by Laguna Beach
designer Kerry Cassill alongside
decorative objects and gourmet snacks.
564 Rose Ave.; thegoldenstatestore.com.
YORK BOULEVARD,
HIGHLAND PARK
Design Showrooms
Big Red Sun

An innovative landscape architecture
firm that also sells garden furniture,
planters and succulent arrangements.
560 Rose Ave.; bigredsun.com.
Honeywood Vintage
Nouveau hippies clamor for Vanessa
Dingwells embroidered cotton dresses,
serapes and Mexican folk-art textiles.
5117 York Blvd.; honeywoodvintage.com.
The Caifornia Kitchen

These locally made treats, found
at farmers markets and
gourmet groceries, offer both sweet
and savory tastes of L.A.
1. RX Tonic
Juicing fanatics down
a blend of celery,
lemon, ginger, turmeric
and garlic to aid
digestion. 317 S.
Broadway; pressbrothers
juicery.com; US$5.
2. DTLA Idyllwild
Grate this aged,
hard-pressed goatmilk cheese over
everything. 317 S.
Broadway; dtlacheese.
com; US$18.
3. The Sweetness
of Being Rose Goji
Chocolate
Handmade bars with
stone-ground cacao,
raw honey, goji berries,
Himalayan sea salt,
rose oil and a pinch
of Mucuna pruriens.
564 Rose Ave., Venice;
thesweetnessofbeing.
com; US$5.
4. Saving the
Season Lime
Marmalade
Cookbook author Kevin
West crafts long-soak
English marmalades
with local lime and a
hint of ginger. 317 S.
Broadway; savingthe
season.com; US$12.
5. Sqirl Seasonal
Preserves
Reinvent breakfast
toast with a range
of artisanal spreads
by jam maker and
restaurateur Jessica
Koslow. Our favorite
flavor: blackberry
lemon verbena.
720 N. Virgil Ave.;
sqirlla.com; US$12.
6. Malibu Honey
Were hooked on
this pure, aromatic
nectar produced by
bees that feed on
wildflowers and sage
from Santa Monica
and the San Gabriel
Mountains. 564 Rose
Ave., Venice; malibu
honey.com; US$16.
7. Farmer Daves
Roasted Hot Nuts
Almondsthe official
snack of Hollywood
fire-blasted with
habanero, vinegar
and tomato paste.
511 Rose Ave., Venice;
farmerdavescher.com;
US$12.
8. Chili-Covered
Pineapple
This dried-fruit treat
delivers tiki taste
with a Mexican
kickall in one bite.
A&B Coffee, 317 S.
Broadway; 1-626/
716-0705; US$2.50.
9. Little Doms
Pickled Green
Tomatoes
Bread-and-butter
pickling and a hot jolt
of crushed red
pepper amp up a
Southern specialty.
2128 Hillhurst Ave.;
littledoms.com;
US$8.
S E P T E M B E R 2 014
99
September
2014
Unmarried Kara
tribeswomen, with
ceremonial body
paint, near Dus, in
Ethiopias Omo River
Valley, page 126.
Features
DAV I D C H A N C E L L O R
102 Langkawi
114 Pingyao, China
116 Asias New Spa
Specialists
122 Trendsetters on
Travel
126 Ethiopia
S E P T E M B E R 2 014
101
Enchanting Langkawi, land of ying and mischievous monkeys,

and million-year-old mountains, pulls M E R R I T T G U R L E Y in
and sends her skipping down the evolutionary brick road.
P H O T O G R A P H E D BY T H A R AT H O R N S I T T H I T H A M
S T Y L I S T: T U N V A R D E E J U TA V A R A K U L . M O D E L : N I T H I P O R N L E R T N I T I W O N S A K U L .
H A I R A N D M A K E U P : W I T T H AYA K A E O A I M . P H O T O G R A P H E R S A S S I S TA N T: TA N A W AT A S A S U TJ A R I T
Exploring the ancient

jungle of Langkawi
(swimsuit, Katarina;
skirt, Emilio Pucci).
S E P T E M B E R 2 014
103
Clockwise from above: Practice

your swing between soft sands and
rolling mountains at The Golf Club, Datai
Bay; strolling poolside at The Andaman
(dress, Halston Heritage); one of
Langkawis many small wonders; marine
biologist Dr. Gerry Goeden; spotting
eagles on a mangrove tour; sail boats
dock at Telaga Harbour; mischievious
macaques plot their next move.
LUXURY
MONKEYS.
B O T T O M R I G H T: C O U R T E S Y O F F O U R S E A S O N S
Thats how naturalist Nurhidayah Hussein

describes the spectacled langurs and macaques
that, though indigenous to Langkawi, have
adapted perhaps too well to a certain invasive
species: tourists. These are ve-star monkeys
living in a ve-star hotelnamely, the
Andaman Langkawi, where the little devils have
conjured every trick in the book to break into
guest suites and raid mini bars. You hear a
knock on the door. Room service? No! Monkey
service! Hussein warns. They will send their
cutest baby to knock at your balcony, asking for
food. When you open the door to feed it, the
whole family will sneak in behind you. Why?
They will have a monkey party. Open your
beers, drink your champagne, eat your chips, sit
on the couch and watch your TV.
I S H O U L D B E C O N C E R N E D, but a monkey
party sounds fun. Besides, macaques learning to
pop champagne corks is just the tip of the
evolutionary-oddity-iceberg in this collection of
99 tropical islands off the northwestern coast of
peninsular Malaysia that includes some of the
weirdest animals, from ying lemurs to walking
sh, and oldest landforms known to man.
Ninety-nine magical islands? Youve heard this
slogan? ecologist Farouk Omar asks me as we
motor through the mangroves. I nod, ready to
gush, but he goes on: They arent islands; theyre
sea stacks. Just rocks really, but I guess ninetynine magical rocks doesnt sound as good.
No, Farouk, it doesnt. But if hes trying to
keep me grounded, hes failing. The boat tour hes
leading is only gelling my impression that
Langkawi is thoroughly enchanting. As we get
further into the wetlands, the vines weave into
an arch overhead and I can sense the age of the
land. It even smells old; millions of years of life
and death, ood and drought, growth and rot,
have given the earth a rich zoetic cologne. In
2007, Langkawi was awarded World Geopark
status by UNESCO and, according to their research,
most of this archipelago rose to the surface 220
million years agothough the islands oldest
geological formation, Mat Cincang Mountain,
S E P T E M B E R 2 014
105
may have risen from the seabed twice as long ago, following the
breakup of the supercontinent Pangea. This would have been during
Cambrian era, a period of great proliferation of life on Earth, and
modern-day Langkawi still reects that biodiversity, both in its wide
range of topography and its miscellany of animals (there are 503
different species of butteries alone). Naturally, theres been an
upsurge of luxury resorts that are designed, from architecture to
operations, to dazzle visitors with this veritable petri-dish of earthly
wonders. It was the mid 1800s when evolutionary biologist Alfred
Russel Wallace reected, The very nest eld for an exploring and
collecting naturalist was to be found in the great Malayan
Archipelago. Im 150 years behind him, but I intend to bask in those
same peculiarities of olden extant species.
like a reptile, Hussein
tells me pointing to the bark of a tree. Every rustle in the kelly tangle
hides some furtive animal action. I squint in the direction she is
indicating but, though Ive spotted kingshers, hornbills, otters and
squirrels already in the past hour, now I cant see a thing. In this
dipterocarp jungle the trees fruit and ower at such towering heights
that the forest oor is left dimly lit and sparsely populated. Every
felled tree spawns a urry of growth as saplings compete for the
prized patch of light and climb eagerly towards the vacant spot in the
vertiginous canopy. The whole ecosystem revolves around height,
with animals forced to nd their way into the treetops in search of
foodone result of which is the abundance of more than 230 species
of birds. Local folklore has it that the name Langkawi comes from a
shortened version of the Malay word for eagle, helang, and kawi,
which means reddish brown: Red Eagle Island.
There are a few unexpected additions to the airborne family, as
wellcreatures that evolved the gift of glide. Theres the ying frog,
whose wide webbed feet allow it to drift through the air. The ying
lizard relies on an extra membrane around its throat, like a bullfrog,
to launch from tree to tree. The ying snake winds up tree trunks,
then hurls itself from high branches and attens its body to catch the
draft as it cruises towards its unsuspecting victims below.
And what Im blinking at? The enigmatic colugo, or ying lemur.
For years nobody was able to classify this animal. It looks like a big
squirrel, its long nails allow it to hang upside down like a bat, and it
uses the extra aps of skin between its legs to sail through the
heights. In 2002, DNA testing shed some light on the mysterious
mammal, revealing that it is, in fact, a primate. But that simple
answer doesnt satisfy everyone. The DNA does not suit the
behavior, Hussein says. A monkey does not look like this. A monkey
does not y.
Monkeys also dont booze it up, but Hussein says, I have seen them
do it. And, although snakes are not known to amuse themselves with
playground equipment, there, back at the resort, is a giant king cobra
slithering from a low-hanging tree down onto the kids waterslide. I
have chills, a young American woman tells me as, in the relentless
tropical heat, she tugs up her sleeve and wags her goose-pimply arm
at me as proof. I give her a courtesy nod but, like everybody else in the
thickening throng, my eyes are glued to the largest venomous snake
in the world. Though its just a pipsqueak in king cobra terms, it is still
thicker than my calf and at least 3 meters long. Can you imagine
being in the pool and having that thing come sliding right at you? the
woman asks me. Surprise! Its the Jungle Book, but for real and were
all going to die.
106
S E P T E M B E R 2 014
E A G L E , M A N G R O V E A N D B O AT: C O U R T E S Y O F F O U R S E A S O N S
IT IS SLEEPING WITH ITS EYES OPEN
Clockwise from top

left: Sunset from the
comfort of a catamaran
cruise (jumpsuit, Diane
von Furstenberg); the
name Langkawi comes
from the Malay word for
eagle, a bird that
abounds on the island;
an oxbow cuts through
the verdant mangrove
forest; weaving through
limestone karsts; a
cave ripe for kayaking;
enjoying a morning walk
on the beach.
On the bow of the

Sea Falcon (dress,
Halston Heritage;
cuff, Chanel).
THERE IS JUST ONE
PIRATE STILL SAILING
THE MALACCA STRAITS,
AND YOURE WITH HIM
S E P T E M B E R 2 014
109
Clockwise from top left: Fishing buoys the

island economy; a prehistoric rock formation
pops out of the jungle; handling a slithering
local; a spectacled langur monkey; dwarfed
by giant leaves (dress and hat, Emilio Pucci).
Opposite: Catching rays (swimsuit, Katarina;
pants, Diane von Furstenberg; scarf, Bvlgari;
sunglasses, Chanel).
F I S H E R M A N B O AT, M O U N TA I N A N D M O N K E Y: C O U R T E S Y O F F O U R S E A S O N S
Thanks, ladynow I have chills. I look to Hussein for reassurance.

I know that she cant offer much in the way of physical protection, but
surely theres some soothing factoid about the harmlessness of giant
poisonous snakes that she can offer. This is their house, she shrugs.
We just rent the space from them. While thats one landlord Id hate
to tick off, theres something life affirming and profound about an
island where the divides between man and nature are still blurred,
where the wilderness still reigns.
W E A R E B L E S S E D T O B E I N T H E M I D S T O F one of the worlds

most incredible geological and ecological environments, yet so few
tourists realize the extent of the nature that lies beyond Langkawis
beaches, says the Four Seasons senior naturalist, Aidi Abdullah.
Theres a lot of mind-blowing nature out there and we just want
people to know about it. To that end, the resort opened Geopark
Discovery Centre earlier this year that features exhibition boards,
interactive presentations and displays, which showcase Langkawis
incredible environment.
Its a perfect setting for responsible adventure tourismthe Kilim
Karst Geoforest Park, for example, is ideal for sailing. Rife with secret
restaurants tucked in quiet corners of karst-sheltered sea, this
limestone labrynth is a playground for sea dogs. The more aerially
enamored can board the cable car that summits Mat Cincang
mountain for a visual tease of all the captivating jungle below. No
wonder backpackers have been wise to the many attractions of the
Jewel of Kedah for ages. Now the whole vibe is ush with upscale
options set to multiply over the next year. A Ritz-Carlton is slated to
open in 2015, the luxe Vivanta by Taj is taking over Rebak Island, and
theres a St. Regis in the works, to name a few. Meanwhile stalwarts
like the Andaman and the Four Seasons are tweaking their offerings
to better highlight the natural surroundings, with scientists and
preservationists on call to educate guests on the islands ecology.
Malaysia has lost 90 percent of its natural

shing resources since the 1980s, according to
marine biologist Dr. Gerry Goeden, but new
coral colonies could generate fresh life. The
Andaman has launched a protection program to
help rebuild the thousands of years of growth
that was cleared in the 2004 tsunami and to
offset the impacts of commercial shing.
Working with the National University of
Malaysia, the resort is creating articial reef
modules designed to provide the right
environment to protect sh eggs and small sh,
a system that could lead to an extra 10,000 kilos
of sh a year. Currently the Andaman has four
modules anchored off its shore, and Goeden has
an ambitious end goal of bumping it up to 5,000
by 2020. This would reinvigorate the aquatic
ecosystem, as well as bolster the local shing
industry to help meet the increasing demand for
seafood that comes with the inux of new
resorts and hungry tourists.
No island vacation is complete without at
least one seafood feast, but responsible
restaurants ban the purchase of adolescent sh,
so they can grow to reproductive maturity and
propagate before they are pulled from the sea.
After the lesson on marine conservation, a short
one-at-a-time snorkeling tour of the 10-by-20meter saltwater coral nursery enclosure is
offered, for an up-close look at the colorful sea
life. One thousand kids a year visit and come
away with a more sustainable life view, Goeden
S E P T E M B E R 2 014
111
says. These are children who come from a privileged background. In

15 years they will be in the position to make a difference.
I F O C U S O N T H E B U L L S- E Y E and breathe in. As I exhale, I let my

arrow y. It breezes through the jungle and lands with a thump in the
outermost ring of the target. I let out a triumphant whoop, though I
can guess from my instructors expression that this is not an
impressive achievement. Still, I stand proud, bow in hand. It is 2 p.m.
and Ive already swum in the hidden Lengarra Creek; biked through
rice paddies and a shing village; trekked through boscage; climbed a
limestone cliff and abseiled down; and now become a master archer.
Im breathing thick jungle air, sweating out city life and feeling right
at home as I tumble backwards into a prehistoric age.
Im caught in a paradox: the older my surroundings, the younger I
feel. Maybe its that on an island where sh walk, snakes y, and one
bolt of lightening can change the course of a mans life, anything
seems possible. In all works on natural history, Wallace wrote, we
constantly nd details of the marvelous adaptation of animals to
their food, their habits, and the localities in which they are found.
Maybe Im just evolving.
112
S E P T E M B E R 2 014
SUNSET AND CR AB: COURTESY OF FOUR SEASONS
T H E C O R A L C O N FA B H A S M E L O N G I N G for a sojourn at sea. I board

Captain Todd Fishers 14-meter luxury catamaran, the Gone Surn,
for a sunset cruise. I listen to the wind cracking the sails taut as we
breeze through shallow waves, and from my spot on the bow of the
boat I have a front row view of Thailand edging nearer in the distance.
You need to bring your passport if you go swimmingyou just may
cross the international border, Fisher tells me.
I ask him how he ended up in Langkawi.
Sometimes lightning strikes, he says.
I chuckle.
No, literally: lightning struck my boat and it jammed all my
equipment. I had to sail to the closest shore and that was that beach
right there, he points to Datai Bay. That was several years ago and I
keep coming back. Hes not the rst to get marooned in these waters.
Fisher nods to Koh Tarutao: That used to be an island of political
prisoners. There were more than 3,000 Thai convicts held captive
there and, during World War II, the country ran out of supplies to feed
them. They all turned to piracy, he says grimly. Even the guards.
I ask if there are still pirates sailing the Malacca Straits.
Just one, says Fisher, and youre with him.
There are more than a few medicine men in this region, however,
and Shaaban Arshad is the resident healer at Kubang Badak, buffalo
wallow, village. Arshad concocts tropical elixirs that he prescribes
for everything from breast lumps to psoriasis. He goes into the
jungle behind his house, local preservationist Irshad Mobarak tells
me, pointing behind the lovely home where we are having lunch, and
thats where he gathers the plants and spices that cure lung cancer.
Cure? His father was a medicine man. His grandfather was a
medicine man, Mobarak explains. This knowledge is passed down.
Arshad breaks into a long rant in Malay and Mobarak translates:
Medicine men act from the heart. Very passionate. His grandfather
would paddle in a wooden boat across 30 kilometers of ocean every
weekend just to see his girlfriend in Thailand. Why didnt he just
move to Thailand? I ask. Malaysia is between India and China and
the herbs are among the oldest in the world, Irshad says. There are
plants and animals here on Langkawi that you cant nd anywhere
else on earth.
T L Guide
Getting There
There are daily ights
from Kuala Lumpur and
Penang to Langkawi on
AirAsia (airasia.com),
Malaysian Airlines
(malaysiaairlines.com)
and Malindo Air
(malindoair.com).
STAY
Four Seasons Langkawi
This sprawling seafront
estate has an adults-only
swimming pool and a thick
1.6-kilometer-long private
beach for multiple lounge
options. The concierge can
arrange rock climbing and
archery in the jungle
playground behind their
property. Jln. Tanjung Rhu,
Mukim Ayer Hangat; 60-4/
950-8888; fourseasons.
com/langkawi; doubles
from RM1,780.
Meritus Pelangi Resort
& Spa Designed in the
style of a Malay village,
this tropical resort has 352
guestrooms and suites
peppered across 14 wellmanicured hectares of
beachfront. Pantai Cenang;
60-4/952-8888;
meritushotels.com; doubles
from RM850.
The Andaman, Langkawi
Tucked between the jungle
and Datai Bay, the recently
refurbished rooms have
oor-to-ceiling windows
oering exceptional views.
Jln. Teluk Datai; 60-4/9591088; theandaman.com;
doubles from RM1,900.
Clockwise from top

left: The sun says
good morning; an
enigmatic flying
lemur; toes in the
sand (swimsuit,
Katarina; scarf,
Bvlgari); one-at-atime snorkeling
tours of The
Andamans coral
nursery; a clown fish
in the sea anemone.
Right: Fiddler crab.
EAT
Privilege Restaurant
and Bar A mix of modern
and classic Malaysian
gastronomy, located right
on Telaga Harbour. B8, 1F
Perdana Quay, Telaga
Harbour Park, Pantai Kok;
60-4/956-1188;
privilegerestaurant.com;
dinner for two RM90.
Kuah Town Seafood
Far from fancy but
brimming with local avor,
this restaurant is a sister
enterprise of the
community favorite
Wonderland Food Store

and serves up the same
high caliber of delicious
and fresh dishes in a
slightly more upscale
setting. Bandar Baru Baron
33, Kuah; 60-12/470-7687;
dinner for two RM100.
Ikan-Ikan Restaurant
Head to this charming
beachfront eatery for the
Monday Fishermans &
Farmers Night, featuring
delectable choose-yourown-ingredients noodle
stations and a lively
traditional dance show. Jln.
Tanjung Rhu, Mukim Ayer
Hangat; 60-4/950-8888;
fourseasons.com/langkawi;
buet RM240 per person.
Eagle Rock Wash down
pub food like nachos and
wings with a cold beer or
killer kamikaze, while you
rock out to live music.
Block 5, GF, Awana Porto
Malai Resort, Tanjung
Malai; eaglerockcafe.com.
my; drinks for two RM50.
DO
Jungle Walla Explore the
secrets of the mangrove
forest with naturalist
Irshad Mobarak. jungle
walla.com; unesco Geopark
Cruise RM199 per person.
Cable Car Board
Langkawis famous cable
car for a breathtaking
1,700-meter ride to the
Top Station of ancient Mat
Cincang Mountain.
panoramalangkawi.com;
RM35 per person.
Coral Nursery Learn
about marine conservation
and coral preservation
under the guidance of
marine biologist Dr. Gerry
Goeden. theandaman.com/
NA-coralnursery.
Looking toward
the City Tower
along Ming
Qing Street, in
Pingyao.
PHOTOGRAPHED BY TONY LAW
You expect Marco Polo to

round the corner at any moment.
Pingyao is the very rare Chinese
city, perhaps the last of the
countrys great walled towns, to
have escaped the successive
waves of modernization that
have swept China over the past
100 yearsthe 1911 Chinese
Revolution, the 1949 Communist
Revolution, the 196676
Cultural Revolution, and the
rampant industrialization
and globalization of the last
generation. Its 72 watchtowers
look out over a turbulent sea
of tiled roofs, with curving eaves
tipped with ceramic dragons.
Red paper lanterns oat over the
pedestrian streets like so many
autumn moons. The city is a time
machine into the Chinese
past and traditional Han culture.
Its all here, Pompeii before
Vesuvius, a ne-grained, highly
detailed, movie-set-perfect
microcosm of traditional China,
built during a seminal and
ourishing period. The nearly
2.5-square-kilometer town
includes the ornate, tiered,
three-story City Tower and
numerous large Confucian and
Taoist temple complexes, all part
of one of the worlds best-preserved
ancient cities.
JOSEPH GIOVANNINI
Pingyao is 644 kilometers
southwest of Beijing and
accessible via train. The closest
airport is Taiyuan.
S E P T E M B E R 2 014
115
116
S E P T E M B E R 2 014
License
to
Heal
F I N G E R - D A N C I N G FAC I A L S , YO G A- F U E L E D C L E A N S E S , D O C T O R D E L I V E R E D P E D I C U R E S : J E N I N N E L E E-S T. J O H N P U T S H E R H E A LT H A N D
B E AU T Y I N E X P E R T H A N D S. I L L U S T R AT E D BY WA S I N E E C H A N TA KO R N
SOMETIMES,
the most
perfect pairings are hiding right under your
nose Or, for the sake of this discussion, your
toes. We live in a region obsessed with and awash
in wellness centers but, talented though many
therapists are, rote techniques and repetitive
menus can make it hard to distinguish among
them. Thats why I suggest you take a careful
reading of the spa offerings on your next vestar getaway. Because some of them are calling
on the credentialed to bring innovative
techniques that will make you wonder, Why
didnt they think of that before? Now emerging in
Asia: a wave of cross-disciplinary aestheticians,
healers with unexpected, yet perfectly tting,
certications tailoring their particular brand of
expertise to methods of making you feel better,
and look better too.
I recently rode that wave right into an
ergonomic leather recliner, with my legs propped
up, and under the spotlight. It felt like a dentists
chair, except the spotlight was not to inspect my
teeth but my toes, and the questions from the
assistantHow far back would you like to lie
down? What type of tea do you take? How strong
do you like your massage?Im pretty sure have
never been asked by a dental hygienist. In a little
Bill Bensley-designed mod hut mere steps from
the South China Sea, the lapping of waves
outside mingling with the rooms trance-y
Apsara mood music, I settled in for my
appointment with the podiatrist.
I was there to get a pedicure, and the draw and
unimpeachable logic of the Studio by Bastien
Gonzalez pedicurewhether at its eight-monthold spot at the InterContinental Danang Sun
Peninsula in Vietnam, where I had it, or at the
other Asia-Pacic locations in China, Maldives,
Singapore, Thailand, and, breaking news,
Australiais that they are all conducted by
actual foot doctors, whom you can trust to keep
their tools clean and to prioritize health. Bien sr
it was a Frenchman who came up with this
concept of the medical-beauty foot-love mlange.
For this is no clinical consultation; caresses were
involved, ladies.
118
S E P T E M B E R 2 014
This is no
clinical
consult;
caresses
were
involved,
ladies
Though some of it was tough love.Gel is

making your nails too brittle, the dashing
Toulouse-born Dr. Benot Peri told me gently
but to my great dismay. After I stopped whining
about the convenience of my tri-weekly manipedi, he continued, extolling the virtues of the
dry pedicure: Hydration makes it difficult to see
the difference between dry skin and healthy
skin. Okay, so no pre-treatment soak. Rather
than push back the cuticles (that can weaken
the matrix of the nail, and an injured cuticle is an
open door to bacteria), he used a blade to remove
their protruding edges, and rather than a pumice
stone, Peri pulled out a scalpel. He told me he
was slicing micro-ne layers off my heel, but I
had already looked away, laid back and put on my
aromatherapy eye-mask. Meanwhile, his
assistant was working on my manicure so
dexterously that I started to think this so-called
Bastiens Duo could take any four-hands body
massageespecially when she threw in an
actual hand massage and Peri went to work
reexology-style on my feet and calves.
The pice de rsistance of Bastien Gonzalez is
the buff, in keeping with his major tenet that
naked nails are beautiful. Polish is like makeup for your nails, Peri said. You take off your
make-up at night to let your skin breathe. You
have to take off polish to let your nails breathe.
A two-day break every week should do the trick.
But after a good rubbing from the chamois
leather buffer and ground-pearl cream, my nails
shined like they were sporting clear polish, and
it lasted for six weeks. Who needs gel?
Au naturelthat was also the premise of the
Yogic Detox Intestinal Cleanse I tried under the
guidance of Dorelal Singh Thakur, who has two
masters degrees in yoga, for science and
philosophy, and is guiding the launch of new
yoga retreats at Six Senses Spas across the
region. Dont call it an enema. (Well, you sort of
can because it leads to the same, er, end result.)
The deceptively simple process is thus: wake up
early; drink two glasses of salt water; do ve
yogic poses meant to ush the water through
your system, top to bottom, eight times each;
repeat; and repeat again. Thats six glasses of salt
water totaling almost two liters, and, Ill say it,
its gross. By the second glass, I was nauseated.
By the fth glass, I was Dumbledore in the cave,

begging Harry not to make him drink any more
poison. Dont make me do it! You just have one
more to go, Dorelal said encouragingly. Right, I
still have one more to go.
Yes, salt water is poison. Salt water is not
meant for human consumption. Salt water
cannot be digested. Thats why this works.
Imbibe it as quickly as possible, and wiggle it out
fast, toothe second pose, swaying palm tree
(tiryaka tadasana), for example, helps move
water through the pyloric sphincter from the
stomach to the duodenum, while the fourth,
twisting cobra (tiryaka bhujangasana),
stimulates movement in the small and large
intestines, opening the right valves, or
oodgates, if you will. Along the way, this poison
acts as a magnet for all the other toxins hidden in
nooks of your digestive tract, picking them up
and whisking them out to not only cleanse your
system, but also help you absorb the good
nutrients you ingest afterward.
After the least pleasant yoga class Ive ever
had, Dorelal sat me upright and, for about 45
minutes, amused me with the details of several
other, less palatable, and certainly less printable,
yogic cleanses that he had to do over and over at
an ashram. I didnt think Id ever want to do even
this one again, but it was true that after each set
of poses, I felt better than before Id started. For
his part, Dorelal does this cleanse about once a
month and, It gets better, he assured me. The
body learns that youre trying to do something
good for itwhich was my cue to retire to the
loo. Ill say precious little more here besides that
the on-site Ayurvedic doctor, Ranjan Kapoor,
had described the aftereffects as a great
lightness and he was right. I felt weightless and
pure for days.
That morning, he prescribed a surprisingly
palatable porridge of rice, lentils and ghee to
ease me back into solid foods and to ensure my
small intestine didnt collapse, followed by a
Nourishing Facial, partly based on his
assessment of how those naughty toxins had
been manifesting themselves physically and
partly to rehydrate me after all that saline.
A Western-style treatment ordered up by an
Eastern-medicine doctor? The two philosophies
absolutely can be reconcilable, says Taiwaneseborn, London-dwelling Su-Man Hsu. Hsu
believes that oriental skincare wisdom focused
Dr.
Kapoor
was right:
I felt
weightless
and pure
for days
on prevention and reparative occidental

cosmetic science work best in tandem. This onetime professional modern dancer with
credentials in Pilates and shiatsu massage rolls
all those talents into anti-aging facials for the
celebrity likes of Juliette Binoche and Freida
Pinto. Clients have described my ngers as
dancers, Hsu said after her most recent tour of
W Away Spas in Bali and Singapore, where she
makes regular appearances. I use my core and
body weight in a very balanced way so I can
transfer energy without force. I let my clients tell
me what to do by what I see through my hands, as
my hands are my second eyes.
Clients have also said she has the recipe for a
facelift in an hour, with her combined use of
massage, acupressure and proprietary cleansers
and creamsbased on the crazy concoctions
she and her sisters whipped into beauty products
as kids, using, for instance, the inner skin of
watermelon as an astringent. I lift tired and
sagging muscles as well as open the energy
channels in the face. This leaves skin looking
sculpted, she said. I would argue that its better
than Botox because the face remains expressive
and relaxed rather than frozen and xed.
Why not trust a dancer to improve your
movement and expression? Dance is instinctive
but requires precision and performance, Hsu
said. I need to be creative in blurring and
rethinking our common conceptions of spa
treatments. Diet, balance, sleep-deprivation,
pollution, stress: Most of our health problems
are elastic and multidisciplinary, so shouldnt
the cure match the ailment?
T L Guide
PEDI:MANI:CURE
Studio by Bastien
Gonzalez Visit
bastiengonzalez.com for
information on all studio
locations; InterContinental
Danang Sun Peninsula in
Vietnam, danang.
intercontinental.com,
Bastiens Duo
VND3,200,000.
Six Senses Yogic Detox
Visit sixsenses.com for
information on all spa
locations and their yogic

oerings; Six Senses Yao
Noi in Thailand, sixsenses.
com/yaonoi, Yogic Detox
programs from US$800 for
ve-night regimen.
Su-Mans Signature
Facial Visit su-man.com
for news and product
information; W Retreat &
Spa Bali-Seminyak,
whotels.com, US$200 for
60-minute Su-Mans
Signature Facial.
S E P T E M B E R 2 014
121
Four trendsetters
reveal their
travel essentials
and their favorite
destinations.
INTERVIEWS BY JERYL BRUNNER

PHOTOGRAPHED BY ANDREAS LASZLO KONRATH
STYLED BY MIMI LOMBARDO
SENSE OF ADVENTURE
PHIL WINSER
Restaurateur and co-owner
of N.Y.C. hot spots the
Fat Radish, the East Pole
and the Leadbelly
122
S E P T E M B E R 2 014
My father used to organize

expeditions for the Royal
Geographical Society in London,
taking scientists to remote
placescaves in Brunei;
Omans Wahiba Sands. I still use
his Globe-Trotter suitcase. It
reminds me of old-world travel,

when exploration was at the
forefront of excitement. RETURN
TO RIO At seventeen, I spent a
year in Brazil. I hadnt been back
until a recent trip to Rio to build a
pop-up hotel and restaurant,
Casa Fat Radish (casafat
radish.com). My partner and I

collaborated with local artists,
designers and musicians
there is such energy and
passion in the Carioca way of
life. NEXT TRIP Id love to go
to Havana, just to walk around
and admire the architecture.
M A R K E T E D I T O R : C O U R T N E Y K E N E F I C K . H A I R A N D M A K E U P : B R I T C O C H R A N F O R L A N C M E AT A R T D E P A R T M E N T W I N S E R , H A L L A N D C L E V E L A N D . L A U R A P R E P O N : H A I R B Y D O N A L D F R A N C I S . M A K E U P B Y L E Y D A Q U I N T E R O
THE
WAY
I
TRAVEL
LAURA PREPON
Actress, starring in the
Netflix original series
Orange Is the New Black
CABIN COMFORT This
oversize Gucci cashmere
shawl was one of my first big
purchases after I started on
That 70s Show. I always carry
it on to use as a blanket.
I love it, because it brings
me back to those days.
GETTING LOCAL Ive been
to a lot of cities in Europe,
and Stockholm is a favorite.
I enjoy biking to South
Island to discover more indie
neighborhoods. The fish at
Sturehof (sturehof.com) is
unbelievable, and Gold Bar
(nobishotel.se), at the Nobis
Hotel, is the best place to
grab a drink. NEXT TRIP I
want to pass through the
Sun Gate and finally see
Machu Picchu.
Coat by Yigal Azroul;

shawl, Gucci (similar
styles available); ring,
Simon G. Jewelry.
On Phil Winser: Suit
by Ernest Alexander;
shirt, Thomas Pink;
shoes, Vans; bracelets,
his own.
CARTER CLEVELAND
Founder and CEO of Artsy,
a next-generation online
resource for contemporary art
FUNCTIONAL FORM My
Cte & Ciel Isar Rucksack is
sturdy and durable, with
compartments to organize
my travel essentials:
laptop, iPhone, Kindle,
adapters and earplugs.
UNFORGETTABLE JOURNEY
I recently traveled to
Tel Aviv with a group of
Silicon Valley entrepreneurs
and met Israels prime
minister, Benjamin
Netanyahu, and the mayor
of Jerusalem, Nir Barkat.
It was exciting to learn how
theyve made technology
a critical part of their
countrys success.
I also visited the Tel Aviv
Museum of Art (tamuseum.
org.il), where I saw a
comprehensive show by
Brazilian artist Vik Muniz,
plus works by some of
my favorite artistsShirin
Neshat, Anselm Kiefer
and Max Ernst. NEXT TRIP
Im heading to Istanbul
soon for the first time.
Sweater and shirt by

Salvatore Ferragamo;
pants, A.P.C.; silicone
Fake Rolex watch (by
artist Shelter Serra),
his own. On Lena Hall:
Jacket by Zac Posen;
pants, Troa; shoes, Herv
Lger by Max Azria;
rings, David Yurman and
Jennifer Meyer Jewelry.
LENA HALL
Tony Awardwinning
performer in Hedwig and
the Angry Inch; lead
singer of the Deafening
PACKING HARMONY When I

travel with my band, I use this
vintage suitcase to carry props
for the show. I bought it at a
thrift shop and painted on our
logo. When Im really tired after
playing, it makes a great seat.
INSIDERS FRANCE I booked
a spontaneous, two-week
trip to Paris last October,
when the air was cool and
crisp. My parents were both
professional ballet dancers,
so I attended a performance
by students of the Ballet
School at the Paris Opera
(operadeparis.fr), where Janine

Guiton, one of my fathers
former partners, used to teach.
As I watched, I kept imagining
myself on that stage.
NEXT TRIP We get asked to
play in the U.K. all the timeI
hope to make it a reality!
S E P T E M B E R 2 014
125
On a trip
through remote
southern Ethiopia,
GUY TREBAY
encounters
the last remaining
tribes of the
Omo River Valley
and the strange,
powerful beauty of
the unknown.
PHOTOGRAPHED BY
DAVID CHANCELLOR
Unmarried Nyangatom
girls, with ornamental scars,
in the Omo River
Valleys Lokulan village.
Up at rst baboon, the safari guide said

brightly at dinner, though its not clear
why he felt the need. When it comes to waking
the dead, baboons are more reliable than
cell phones, quartz clocks or a New York City
garbage truck grinding its gears.
Wide awake the next morning, well before
the guide stopped by my y tent to rouse me,
I strapped on a headlamp, wrapped a towel
around my waist, and scuffed through the dark to
a wash tent for a cold shower. After dressing
in the dark, I hurried to the boat landing to join
our small assembly, at this hour a cluster of vague
and indenite shapes, for a voyage downriver.
Daybreak creased the black horizon as the
boatman cast off; in the growing light individual
identities began to emerge. We were, it occurred
to me, by any standards a motley assembly. There
were the two safari outtters, one a rough-hewn
Kenyan, the other a well-upholstered South
African with a plummy public-school accent.
There was the Felliniesque Swiss-Italian
daughter of an internationally celebrated pop
diva. There was a handsome young hacker
whod recently cashed in on a spyware system
for US$70 million, and also his father, a Dallas
developer mellow enough to cast into doubt every
stereotype one ever held about Texans.
There was an empty-nest matron from
northern California in the process of reinventing
herself as a documentary photographer. Her
subject specialty, she said when rst introduced,
was butchery.
Before we convened in a hotel restaurant in
Addis Ababa, Id never laid eyes on most of these
people; a week later they remained to me a cluster
of implacable mysteries. Why was the Italian
glamour-puss, whose natural habitat is the front
row of Milan fashion shows, covered with tribal
tattoos? What karmic debt schedule inspired the
California housewife, liberated from mommying,
Dassanech guarding grain in the lower Omo Valley.
to spend her days hauling around a pack mules burden of tripods,

lenses and camera bags? How had that womans brother, our South
African guide, transformed himself from a high-end caterer into a
latter-day Denys Finch Hatton? Why, above all, had we found ourselves
joined in adventure through one of the remotest regions of Africa, a
place that until recently was reachable only by a weeks-long river
journey or along bone-jarring washboard tracks optimistically referred
to in Africa as roads?
I assured myself that, like all travelers, we were seekersof precisely
what was not yet clear. And on that one point our South African guide
was insistent: we were travelers and not mere tourists. It was a
distinction that came to mean less the longer we were together, beyond
the obvious truth that either group is equally adept at demonstrating
limitless possibilities for cultural misunderstanding.
t was just past dawn when the boatman steered us toward a

mudbank, disturbing a stately goliath heron. With a succession of
creaky wingbeats, the auburn-topped great bird pressed off into the
air, like a codger rousing himself from an easy chair. Beyond the
bank a dense grove of scrub trees stood, with a path cut through it
leading to a Kara village. There our group had an appointment to
attend an orwak ceremony, a rare invitation from a village
headman to witness soothsayers foretell the future by reading the
entrails of a goat.
Life, life takes you, a cabbie had murmured to me some days earlier
in Addis Ababa, as he banged around the corrugated roads of the capital

Unmarried Kara tribeswomen from Dus.
in a rusted Soviet Lada, a vehicular relic of

another era, the grim days of military occupation
known as the Derg. His youthful ambition to
pursue medicine, the driver explained, had come
to nothing, subsumed by the exigencies of
remaining alive. Having survived the Derg, here
he was now piloting an old jalopy in endless loops
around a city best described as African
Transitional: half glass-towered metropolis, half
shantytown. At least, the driver said, hed escaped
being killed.
Nothing about the current political situation
in Ethiopia approaches the unfathomable
darkness of that chapter, a time of socialist
military rule and state-sanctioned torture. Yet
plenty remains to trouble traveler or tourist, not
least the multifarious forces threatening the
survival of the very tribes wed come to observe.
Over the past 20 years, oil discoveries, government
leasing of vast tracts of parkland to foreign
agribusiness investors, and a hydroelectric
dam under construction upriver from the last
remaining tribal peoples of Omo have all
conspired to uproot these farmers from their
lands and imperil their centuries-old cultures
and very existence.
Life takes you, I thought, as we left the tea-colored river led by a

gaggle of laughing children. It struck me that life had led me on many a
strange adventure, not least this one, to a region Id subconsciously
vowed to visit as a child. It was back then, poring over the pages of
Ralitsan arty French magazine to which my parents unaccountably
had a subscriptionthat I rst encountered people who marked their
bodies with ornamental patterns of scars, who cut and stretched their
lips to accommodate clay plates that, while disguring to a Western
eye, were emblems to the Suri and Mursi of elegance and wealth.
We were here in southwestern Ethiopia to see those tribes and also
the agriculturalist honey-gatherers known as the Kara; the statuesque
pastoralists called the Nyangatom; and the Hamar, whose women daub
themselves for hygiene with ocher and butterfat. We were here to seek
out the Dassanech and the Kwegu, the latter a benighted group kept by
stronger tribes in a state of semi-slavery. We had hopes, too, of
encountering the reclusive Suri, some of whom inhabit mountainous
redoubts so remote that fewer outsiders have seen them, our Kenyan
guide claimed, than have set foot on the moon.
In a short while we found ourselves in the Kara village of Dus, a
dusty apron of land cleared from the bush along the Omo River. Huts
rimmed the village perimeter; a parliament house of peeled logs stood
at one end. Near the center hulked a cinder-block school building
whose walls were ornamented with nave paintings depicting local
wildlife: The Elefant and The Girafe. Abruptly, out of nowhere, a conga
line of women appeared, stomping in the dust and chanting and
piercing their ululations with ear-shattering blasts on tin whistles.
S E P T E M B E R 2 014
129
Painted for the occasion with the daubed clay

patterns that make these particular tribal people
popular as postcard subjects, the village men also
had whistles. They blew them ercely and
alternately shot off blanks from the ries many
shouldered. At each fresh report our group
scattered, less from any sense of peril than from
shock. It was barely six in the morning, a little
early for reworks.
A sacricial ram was to be slaughtered for the
oracles and of its ordeal the less said the better.
Receiving the carcass, the soothsayers spread its
cleaned entrails across an upturned calabash.
A great deal of muttered deliberation followed.
Eventually the elders appeared to predict a good
spate for the Omo River and another year of
bountiful crops. What surprised me was not this
news ash but the alacrity with which the
villagers melted back into their daily lives once
word was delivered. Maybe they were blas. More
likely they understood traditional ceremonies
like this were soon enough to be supplanted by
other and more pernicious forms of magic.
Already Ethiopian telecommunications
companies are erecting mobile-phone towers in
the Omo River Valley for Turkish and Korean
agribusiness. Likewise, British oil exploration
has led to the construction of more new roads
built with foreign nancing.
Motoring back to camp on the river we spotted
a Pels shing owl hunched on a branch of a
skeletal thorn tree. Thats a major tick for
African bird-watchers, said our Kenyan guide.
This tick would have to serve as the Animal
Planet highlight of our journey, since we would
see little of the game for which sub-Saharan
Africa is renowned. Well in advance of arrival
wed learned that once-abundant populations of
large mammals in southern Ethiopia had been
gunned out of existenceslaughtered as bush
meat in the years since weapons began ltering
across the border from Sudan.
Though a decades-long civil war in that
divided country visited untold atrocities on
human populations, this was not the sole
destructive legacy of the Lords Resistance
Army and the Janjaweed. The elefants had been
substantially wiped out; so, too, the girafes.
Hippo populations that once crowded the
waterways were decimated, leaving behind in
the rivers those prehistoric horrors: crocodiles.
Birds remain plentiful, as do certain simians.
Yet none of us had traveled thousands of
kilometers to look at monkeys. We were here with
the uneasy common goal of visiting a human zoo.
We were part of that growing wave of travelers
riding a current of nostalgia for vanishing
130
S E P T E M B E R 2 014
THE VILLAGERS LIKELY UNDERSTOOD THAT

THEIR TRADITIONAL CEREMONIES WERE SOON
TO BE SUPPLANTED BY OTHER AND MORE
PERNICIOUS FORMS OF MAGIC
Hamar goats in Aremba village,

near Turmi, Ethiopia.

A Kara tribesman near Labuk village.
traditional cultures, the same atavistic search for

fragments of a preindustrial planet that gives rise
to neo-tribal gatherings like Burning Man.
That we were willing to travel so farby jet and
bush plane and jeep and boatto see certiable
others suggested, at the least, a growing cultural
malady. As technology has pressed in on humanity
in the West, the Irish novelist Robert McLiam
Wilson wrote in an essay about wild-man cults of
modern Europe, a longing has developed for
contact with those who elude its clutches. In order
for there to be an us, of the developed world,
Wilson wrote, we need a not us.
It was that not us photographers like Jimmy
Nelson set out to record, compiling in his
acclaimed 2013 book Before They Pass Away a
lavish document of remote tribal groups around
the planet. Among the places Nelson traveled rst
for a project that would eventually take him to the
ends of the earth was the Omo River Valley. He
was far from the only one inspired to make this
particular journey. The National Geographic
photographer Steve McCurry had already been
here. Sebastio Salgado had, too, and Hans
Silvester. That each came away with images less
striking, to this observers eye, for singular vision
132
S E P T E M B E R 2 014
than for a romanticized sameness is perhaps understandable. Whats

more, the people of the Omo River Valley tend to the photogenic, and
even when not possessed of beauty are so graceful of carriage you can
hardly resist framing them as icons.
There is something else: whether world-renowned photographer or
rank tourist grabbing iPhone snaps, every visitor to the Omo Valley
pays to take pictures. Even before lifting a camera one is obliged by
custom to negotiate a transaction fee with potential subjects. Its a
ritual exchange since the going rate is known to all involved, a price of
ve Ethiopian birr, or about an American quarter. You must never,
ever, said our Kenyan guide, break the rule of ve.
Luckily for me the need to barter was moot, because from the outset
Id been clear I would not be taking pictures. Partly I wanted to sidestep
the image clichs. I also wanted a break from the tyranny of Instagram,
Twitter and Facebook, the existential drain of tracking online
followers, and friends with their winks and likes.
In Africa, I gured, Id try reviving the simple acts of direct
observation, of looking and remembering. And it seems to have worked,
since it is an easy pleasure now to summon up an interior camera roll:
watchful adolescent Nyangatom goatherds perched on logs outside their
village, hide skirts embroidered with beads made from melted shell
casings, blankets wrapped snugly against a morning chill; tribal elders
clustered on stools in the dust and slapping stone counters into gnarled
hollows of an ancient board game called mbao; the fast-owing Omo
surging mud-red through striated cliffs; gargantuan, yellow-eyed
crocodiles sunning on its banks.
WE WERE PART OF THAT ATAVISTIC

SEARCH FOR FRAGMENTS OF A
PREINDUSTRIAL PLANET THAT GIVES
RISE TO NEO-TRIBAL GATHERINGS
LIKE BURNING MAN
An unmarried Kara woman from Chelete.
I can conjure in my minds eye the coquetry of

Barigi American, a 13-year-old Kara girl still free
of the ornamental scars her older sister, Nani,
displayed so proudly, ashing an insolent smile
not a whit less beautiful for lacking the incisors
that had been pulled as is the custom of her tribe.
hat the others thought of our
shared encounters I never did
learn. Whether out of fear or
alienation or exhaustion, with
each passing day we Westerners
retreated further from one
another. Coming together at
meals, and on boat and road
trips, we remained, despite our many points of
common reference, a random assembly of isolates.
And while we were not moving about at the level
of decadent luxury to which certain of the South
African outtters billionaire clients are
accustomedThere are the Haves, he quipped
over drinks one evening, and there are the
Have-Jetswe were as cosseted as babies, served
eggs cooked fresh by a Kenyan chef at breakfast,
sweet corn soup for lunch, piquant meat curries,
and aged Italian cheeses brought overland on a
weeklong haul by refrigerated truck. We were herded with great

subtlety by the one person serving as a true and uncredited cicerone of
our odd expedition, a quiet Kara tribesman educated by Swedish
missionaries and uent in a variety of tribal languages, including ours.
Perhaps, too, my comrades shared a growing impatience with the
trip organizers attitudinizing, the way one derided humankind as a
cancer destined to destroy the planet while another simultaneously
boasted of trips laid on for a fashion designer whose visit to Omo
required ve leased B3 Eurocopters and baby vegetables imported
from France.
If you really want a toy box, we can give you a toy box, the South
African guide said one evening at drinks, referring to ultra-high-end
safaris, as I pushed away from the table and walked to my tent.
There I sat in a folding chair on a rectangle of canvas, shaded by a g
whose ngering branches raveled the river. I fumed as I watched the
sunset reect off the water and play chromatic tricks. Leaves that at
noon appeared black and dense were now lit from beneath a bright
metallic green. A troop of baboons swinging heavily through the canopy
across the river suddenly lost all dimension, attening into a cluster of
inky cartoon silhouettes.
Pulling from my pocket a photocopied sheet provided upon
arrival, I read again this simple primer on local protocol: It is
essential politeness to greet people profusely: start learning!
The phrases consisted of basic greetings in Hamar and Nyangatom,
Kara and Mursi, words which, having been dutifully practiced,
we were encouraged to use at each new tribal village. What I found,
though, after greetings had been exchanged in each new place,
was that an inevitable glum silence settled and a chasm opened up
between speakers, as on a blind date.
It happened that in many villages we were greeted in the lingua
franca of tour groups increasingly making their ways to this remote
region. Landing after long passages in our open boat we often
found ourselves greeted by village children waving their arms and
excitedly calling out Ciao! While this detracted somewhat from the
precontact fantasy we were all to a shameful degree indulging, the
globally familiar Italian greeting was both a welcome and a corrective.
There are limits, the lesson was, to the power that scraps of language
S E P T E M B E R 2 014
133
have to shim up a social structure so deeply

uneven; being spoken to in a tongue I knew
seemed to level the engagement.
Thinking back on the Kara oracle, it suddenly
occurred to me that the soothsayers understood
all this and that each of our encountersgrisly
goat sacrice includedhad been a bit of theater.
Those village men saw exactly what was coming.
The chants and whistles and hocus-pocus were a
way of signaling that theyd seen the dismal
future and it was us.
ext morning we left camp and drove to
an immaculately mowed landing strip
belonging to the British oil exploration
unit. Boarding a 10-seater plane, we
lifted off for the mountains beyond
the Mui River and the Suri tribe. From
the air, the stark alterations to the
landscape were clearly visible. The
mystifying dark circles scattered at
regular intervals below were giant ash heaps, our
pilot explained, left behind by industrial crews
razing the bush. As the planes toy shadow glided
toward the angled crustal plates of the Great Rift
Valley, we passed a place where an oxbow of the
Omo River carved a giant question mark into the
earth. Entering airspace above the vast Omo
National Park, we were told that topi, gazelle,
giraffe and herds of elephant still survived there,
though who knew for how long? The government
never gazetted the national parkland, our Kenyan
guide said. Human development was already
overtaking raw wilderness.
Bumping through turbulent air, the pilot took
aim at a landing strip that looked like a cricket
pitch cut between giant anthills. As we
approached, a lone gure casually sauntered onto
the runway, causing the pilot to jerk upward, bank
hard to port and circle for another go.
Gliding down at last, we bumped to a halt. The
pilot put the wheels in chocks as we deplaned and
then issued strict instructions. Be back in two
hours, said the only man in the region capable of
acing that particular landing. Raising an arm, he
pointed toward the armada of thunderheads
moving in from the west.
Ethiopia
ERITREA
SUDAN
OMO
RIV E R
ADDIS
ABABA
SOMALIA
OMO
SOUTH VA L L E Y
SUDAN
KENYA
134
800 K M
S E P T E M B E R 2 014
T L Guide
TOUR
OPERATOR
The Cape Townbased
company Passage to
Africa arranged the
authors 10-day
itinerary, led by CEO
Michael Lorentz.
passagetoafrica.com.
A married Nyangatom woman, wearing a goatskin skirt and

a belt made from melted bullets, near Lokulan.
A local guide appeared then and we clambered behind him up a slick

mud trail. More lush here than the thorn scrub in the river valley, the
highland vegetation was also less dense and menacing, a far fresher
green. Our destination was a small village cut into a ridge, an
insignicant collection of domed huts walled with vegetation and
fenced to keep in the chickens and goats.
When at last we reached the village, I realized suddenly that this was
what Id been waiting for all along. Regionally, the Suri are renowned
for their beauty, hauteur and erceness in battle; for reverencing in
song and story the cattle that are their wealth; for growing cabbages,
tobacco and yams; for trading in honey, leopard skins, gold and giraffe
tails; for being a matriarchal culture whose males are conned to strict
age-set groupings and who sometimes wait decades to become initiated
as warriors. To the wider world, to me, the Suri are known for one
thing. They are the lip-plate people, the ones I encountered so long ago
in my parents living room. They were early proof of a world beyond my
front door that was wondrous strange. To ready her for eventual
marriage, a young Suri girls bottom teeth are removed, her lower lip
pierced and stretched to allow for the insertion of clay lip plates. Over
years the plates get larger and there are tales, perhaps apocryphal, of
some having attained 40 centimeters in diameter.
Extreme body modication lost much of its power to shock at about
the time American teens started getting their nipples pierced at the mall.
Where I live, in New York City, people routinely go about with earlobes
that have been stretched to the size of portholes. And yet Nagunya
Ologoleher lower lip distended to accommodate a plate so large she
had to support it with her upturned hand, a gesture of unanticipated
elegancewas not just an odd sight. She was all the strangeness of the
world a traveler sets out in search of, the personication of the exotic
other who in the end, in almost every case, is pretty much the same as
you and me.
An impressive portrayal
beautifully made duets
for the two leads.
Luke Jennings, The Guardian, UK
ONEGIN
STUTTGART BALLET, GERMANY
Saturday 25 October 7.30pm &
Sunday 26 October (2.30pm)
Baht 5,500 / 4,500 / 3,500 / 2,500 / 1,500
Supported by the Embassy of Germany,
Bosch and Thai-German Cultural Foundation
Hotline 02 262 3191


Our Definitive Guide to
Serenity-minded hoteliers and

urbane entrepreneurs are helping
Thailands tropical playground
usher in a cultural renaissance.
Resident Simon N. Ostheimer
takes the pulse of the island and
its neighbors. Photographed by
Pornsak Na Nakorn
Kata Beach, one of

the best surf spots
in Thailand.
S E P T E M B E R 2 014
137
PHUKET
From left: The

pool at Hyatt
Regency Phuket
Resort; its all
mod at Point
Yamu by COMO.
Lay of
the Land
Old Town This historical
districts century-old Chinese
shop houses and tin-baron
mansions house a variety of
cafs, creative restaurants,
cool bars and hip hotels.
Patong Phukets party
central needs little
introduction, but beyond the
dubious delights of Bangla
Road, youll discover an
emerging culinary scene and
good tourist shopping.
Chalong This waterfront is
the main launching point for
boats to the oshore islands.
Grab a drink at one of the
laidback bars that line the
roads by the pier.
Kathu Earmarked as the
islands new CBD, this area is
booming with huge
developments that will add
more malls and attractions.
Surin Of the half-dozen
beach towns that line the
sun-soaked west coast,
Surin is the chicest, with
boutique resorts, beach
clubs and some of the
islands top-rated eateries.
Getting Around
Phukets many taxis and
tuk-tuks are exorbitantly
priced. Instead, rent a car
or motorbike.
138
S E P T E M B E R 2 014
From tropical to trendy, here are seven

of the islands hottest retreats.
THE NAKA
PHUKET
The 94 pool villas in this
striking west coast
resort sit on a hill
overlooking a private
beach. Thai architect
Duangrit Bunnag
embraced the
topography by designing
cantilevered buildings
that seem to hang in the
air. 1/18, 1/20 Moo 6,
Kamala, Kathu;
66-76/337-999;
thenakaphuket.com;
Bt23,800.
HYATT REGENCY
PHUKET RESORT
Located at the start of
Millionaires Mile, home
to some of the islands
most expensive resorts
and residences, the
Hyatt offers luxurious
lodgings, including 12
expansive Regency
suites. 16/12 Moo 6,
Kamala, Kathu;
66-76/231-234; phuket.
regency.hyatt.com;
Bt3,700.
INIALA
This one-of-a-kind
property is the brainchild
of philanthropist Mark
Weingard. Each of the
10 suites are the
creation of dierent
designers from across
the globe. All guests
have a driver, butler, chef
and masseuse at their
beck and call. 40/14
Moo 6, Baan Natai,
Phang Nga; 66-76/451456; iniala.com;
US$2,500.
POINT YAMU
BY COMO
The rst top-ight resort
set up in the islands
rural northeast is sleek
and modern with star
Italian designer Paola
Navones interiors partly
inspired by the waters of
the Andaman Sea. 225

Moo 7, Paklok, Thalang;
66-76/360-100;
comohotels.com/
pointyamu; Bt9,000.
LE CORAL
HIDEAWAY
BEYOND PHUKET
Picturesque Natai
Beach is rapidly
becoming the go-to
destination for those in
the know. This small,
smart resort is the
latest addition to the
areas upmarket
oerings, featuring
well-appointed rooms
with beach-house
touches like distressed
wood furnishings. 9/9
Moo 8, Na Toey, Thai
Muang; 66-76/679-888;
coralhideaway.com;
doubles from Bt17,500
for two nights.
ANANTARA
PHUKET LAYAN
RESORT & SPA
The so beach, shallow
tide pool and oshore
rock formations set a
scene so serene youll
have no idea youre a
stones throw from the
lively Laguna complex.
168 Moo 6, Layan Beach
Soi 4, Cherngtalay,
Thalang; 66-76/317200; phuket-layan.
anantara.com; Bt5,200.
U ZENMAYA
PHUKET
This Old Town-inspired
property is the newest
rollout for the berpersonalized Thailandbased U Hotels &
Resorts. 6/181 Moo 6,
Kamala, Kathu; 66-76/
336-888; uzenmaya
phuket.com; Bt2,299.
Hotel prices represent starting rates

for double occupancy.
ONE TO WATCH Kata Rocks At this stunning, long-awaited, cli-top resort, the villas are all heavy on
Andaman views and the wellness bent is downright funthink: sleep-pod napping therapy and an in-house
expert at Feldenkrais, a practice focusing on the symbiotic relationship between movement and thought.
Doors open in November. 186/22 Kok Tanode Rd., Karon, Muang; 66-76/370-777; katarocks.com.
Shop
Three stylish stops

for beach buys.
R E K TA : C O U R T E S Y O F R E K TA B E A C H C L U B AT B O AT H O U S E B Y M O N TA R A , P H U K E T 2
C H I N P R A C H A H O U S E : T H I T I TA N D A V A N I TJ
Lemongrass House This Phuket

success story founded by a former
lm executive in the U.S., Bobby
Duchowny, sells 100-percent handmade,
natural spa products and teas in his
scent-lled shopand to top hotels
around the world. 10/2 Moo 1,
Srisoonthorn Rd., Cherngtalay, Thalang;
lemongrasshouse.com.
Paul Ropp Another American, this

designer displays his easy-breezy,
wildly chromatic, handwoven, handembroidered cottons and silks at his
eponymous shops across the island. Get
decked out head-to-toe with his locally
inspired clothes, shoes and accessories.
Flagship shop at Surin Gallery, Moo 3,
Cherngtalay, Thalang; paulropp.com.
From top:
Handmade spa
products at the
fragrant Lemongrass
House; tropical
fashion at Re K Ta.
Re K Ta If youre looking to make

waves fashion-wise during your visit
to the beach, visit the smart boutique
inside this beach club on Kata Beach,
where you can pick up Vilebrequin
swimming trunks, Heidi Kleins espadrilles
and barely there swimwear by Princesse
Tam Tam. 182-184 Koktanode Rd., Kata,
Muang; rekataphuket.com.
See Do
LARD YAI SUNDAY
WALKING STREET
Chinpracha
House.
Patong Boxing
Stadium.
This assembly of locally

made handicras, traditional
southern Thai snacks and
cultural performances was
launched in September last
year. An excellent way to
spend a Sunday evening, it
also serves to highlight the
historic charms of the
revitalized Old Town.
Thalang Rd., Old Town; every
Sunday 4 p.m. to 10 p.m.
SOI DOG
FOUNDATION
Since it was founded in 2003
to tackle Phukets stray pup
epidemic, this remarkable
charity has sterilized more
than 60,000 dogs and cats.
Learn more about their
worthy work and meet some
friendly animals on a facility
tour. 167/9 Moo 4, Soi Mai
Khao 10, Mai Khao, Thalang;
66-81/788-4222; soidog.org.
Theres more to do than tan

on these sunny shores.
SURF HOUSE
CHINPRACHA HOUSE
The islands so-called low

season (May through
October) is the best time of
year for surfers to visit, with
a beach break at Kata rated
the best in the country. But
for days when the swell is at
theres this articial wave for
non-stop body-surng. 4
Pakbang Alley, Karon, Muang;
66-81/979-7737; surouse
phuket.com; from Bt1,000.
Phuket was once known for

tin mines, a hugely lucrative,
if destructive, industry that
led to the emergence of the
islands mining barons, who
built grand mansions in their
own honor. One of the best
preserved is this century-old
Sino-Colonial home in the
Old Town. 98 Krabi Rd.; 6676/211-167; Bt200 entry,
daily 9 a.m. to 4:30 p.m.
PATONG BOXING
STADIUM
Organized by famous former
muay Thai champion Num
Noi Singpatong, the Saturday
Fight Nights feature the best
combatants to come out of
his Patong gymincluding
Frenchman Damien Alamos,
the top-ranked foreigner in
the sport. 2/59 Sainamyen
Rd., Patong, Kathu; 66-76/
345-578; patongboxing
stadium.com; from Bt1,300.
THE KIDS CLUB

Sure, most top resorts boast
childrens centers, but for a
change of scene, this osite
romper room has a ball pit,
playgrounds, painting,
clowns, cartoons and superheroesall the fun needed
to wear out the wee ones.
2/F Promenade Mall Patong,
70/1 Bangla Rd., Patong;
66-76/341-310; thekids
clubphuket.com; Bt150 per
hour for kids older than one.
S E P T E M B E R 2 014
139
PHUKET
Expect Basque flavors

with Asian ingredients
at Aziamendi. From
left: Southern style
curry at Nahmyaa;
Mirror Mirror blends
clever dcor and French
comfort food. Bottom:
A tipple or two at
Rendez-Vous.
Where to dine in Phuket now.

AZIAMENDI
This groundbreaking
restaurant is headed by
Michelin three-starred
chef Eneko Atxa, who
has combined his
Basque heritage with
Asian ingredients to
come up with dishes
such as suckling pig
with pumpkin noodles
and dashi. 40/14 Moo
6, Baan Natai, Phang
Nga; 66-93/779-2312;
aziamendi.com; set
menus from Bt5,000.
MIRROR MIRROR
Playing a big part in
Old Towns emergence
as a dining destination,
this Gallic-inected
spot has a woodpaneled, mirror-lined
interior and a modernFrench, comfort-food
menufeaturing, for
example, whole rack of
lambcreated by its
140
S E P T E M B E R 2 014
Le Cordon Bleu-trained
chef. 31 Dibuk Rd., Old
Town, Muang; 66-76/
355-914; mirrormirror
phuket.com; Bt1,000.
NAHMYAA
Though yet to garner
the fame of its sister
restaurantNahm, at
the Metropolitan by
COMO in Bangkok
this koi-tiled, new
addition to Phukets
dining scene deserves
some recognition.
Under the expert eye of
chefs Daniel Moran and
Thirawut Na-udom, it
serves up classy twists
on southern Thai street
food, such as an
unbeatable steamed
whole sh topped with
catsh oss. 225 Moo
7, Paklok, Thalang; 6676/360-100;
comohotels.com/
pointyamu; Bt2,500.
NIKKI BEACH
PHUKET
The newest branch of
this glam global beach
club chain sashayed up
to the northern end of
unspoiled Layan Beach
earlier this year. Join
the well-dressed crowd
sipping champagne and
knocking back oysters
as the day fades to
dusk. The raucous
Sunday brunch is mustbook-ahead. 62/11
Moo 6, Cherngtalay,
Thalang; 66-76/681161; nikkibeach.com/
phuket; Bt3,000.
GALLERY CAFE
BY PINKY
Long a mainstay of
expats in search of a
sandwich, salad and
smoothie, Pinkysas
locals know itrecently

moved into swanky Old
Town digs, where the
food and drinks are as
good as ever. 19
Yaowarat Rd., Old Town,
Muang; 66-83/1037000; gallerycafephuket.com; Bt500.
360 BAR & GRILL
Wine and dine your
date atop The Pavilions,
an adults-only resort
whose bar oers
romantic views of the
Andaman, creative
tapas, and a range of
love potions such as
the Hex Appeal, an
elixir of kar lime
leaves and vodka. 31/1
Moo 6, Cherngtalay,
Thalang; 66-76/317600; thepavilions
resorts.com; Bt1,500.
Restaurant prices represent approximate cost for

dinner for two, unless otherwise noted.
Meet up for a glass of red at

Rendez-Vous (facebook.
com/phuketrendezvous),
with generous owner Khun
Ae, before strolling up the
road to The House
(thehousephuket.com) for a
Japanese Hitachino Nest
beer. Next: longtime favorite
Sanaeha (facebook.com/
sanaehaphukettown) for a
little live jazz, before a short
walk to Wonderland
(wonderlandphuket.com),
where waiters in top hats
serve cocktails made with
Phukets own Chalong Bay
Rum. If youre still standing,
head due north to rock out
the evening in style at
Timber Hut (66-76/211839). Whisky mixers and a
rollicking timethats why
Aerosmith lead singer
Steven Tyler partied here
last year.
R I G H T: C O U R T E S Y O F A Z I A M E N D I . B O T T O M : C O U R T E S Y O F R E N D E ZV O U S
Imbibe in
Old Town
From left: The cove-sheltered

Naiharn beach; deep fried
soft-shell crab; Mr. Zen, the
owner of Wua Art Gallery.
C L O C K W I S E F R O M T O P L E F T: J O H N H A R P E R /G E T T Y I M A G E S ; A K E E R I S / D R E A M S T I M E . C O M ; C O U R T E S Y O F M R . Z E N .
I L L U S T R AT I O N S B Y W A S I N E E C H A N TA K O R N
Three insiders share their

go-to places on the island.
TIM CAMPBELL
ALICE NA
Co-owner of
Stand Up
Projects
TAKUATUNG
LUCCHINI
TV host of
Phuket News TV
Co-owner of
Chalong Bay Rum
Phuket has many stunning beaches.

My favorites are Naiharn, tucked in a
cove with incredible surroundings,
and Bangtao, where long and
peaceful waves make it ideal for
learning to surf at Skylas Surf &
SUP Club (surf-sup.asia). I like to eat
at Sunset (100 Cherngtalay Baadon
Rd.), for delicious Thai served in a
warm, simple setting. Im also a huge
fan of Flavor (facebook.com/
avorphuket) in Phuket Townits
fresh ingredients are magically put
together. For drinks, my favorite
hangout is Ploenchit (facebook.com/
ploenchit.phuket), with its winning
combo of retro kitsch and rustic vibe.
Island
Hop
MARINE
My favorite spot to eat in Phuket is

Bang Mud (66-81/273-2367) oating
restaurant, for its deep fried soft-shell
crab and clams with lemongrass.
Adrift between the mainland and
Coconut Island, it is a 10-minute boat
ride from Laem Hin pier to the oceantop eatery. If youre dining, the
longtail taxi is free; visit around 4 p.m.
so you can enjoy the sunset ride back
to Phuket. For bars, my top choice
would be Sanaeha (facebook.com/
sanaehaphukettown). When Im not
working, I often visit Ao Yon Beach
near my home down Cape Panwa. All I
need is a beach mat, a book and good
company: its my own slice of paradise.
I love the 15-course Sunday brunch of

fresh delicacies prepared by the chefs
at Breeze (breezecapeyamu.com). I
appreciate the caring service, the
family atmosphere and the beautiful
views of Phang Nga Bay. My favorite
bar is Wonderland (wonderland
phuket.com), where they serve
amazing cocktails in a magical setting
that conveys of the unexpected nature
of Alices journey. During the day, I
like to wander the streets of blooming
Old Town, where there always are new
places to discover, such as Mr. Zens
Wua Art Gallery (wua-artgallery.
com). This historic area is authentic,
diverse and original.
While it may seem odd flying onto an island resort only to board a boat to yet another, the dozens of small isles dotted around
Phuket are sure to beckon from the horizon. Just a 15-minute speedboat ride (or slightly longer by longtail) from Phuket, pay a visit
to Koh Bon, where Brit Dawn Farrell (bonislandphuket.wordpress.com) serves up fresh seafood right on the beach, or to the mostly
undeveloped Coral Islandalso known as Koh Haewhich features pristine reefs for snorkeling and sandy beaches for sunning.
To avoid the crowds, skip Long Beach and head to Banana Beach instead. Mainly rural Koh Yao Yai, where the locals still harvest
rubber and coconuts, is off the east coast. Due to the infrequent ferries, its worth staying overnight, perhaps somewhere such as
the Koh Yao Yai Village resort (kohyaoyaivillage.com). To really get away from it all, check into the Tenta Nakara (tentanakara.com)
on Koh Naka Yai, where you can glamp it up at a resort that encourages skinny-dipping! Nothing like getting back to nature.
S E P T E M B E R 2 014
141
Last Look
Photographed by
Omar Havana
Cambodia
Slaves of the God

At least 1,737 nymph carvings adorn
the temples of Angkor, to which
generations of dancers belonged
from the 7th to 15th centuries. They
were embodiments of life-creating
energy sprung from a process for
which the temples were metaphors.
Classical Apsara dancers

Icons of the Angkorean period, royal
dance troupes were kidnapped by
the Siamese in 1431, and killed by
the Khmer Rouge. These performers
at Thomeanon Temple are helping
usher in the arts current revival.
Practice makes perfect
Earthly tributes to heaven

The Royal Ballet of Cambodia is on
the unesco Intangible Heritage list.
Upon seeing them perform in
France in 1906, Auguste Rodin said,
It is impossible to see human nature
carried to such perfection.
142
S E P T E M B E R 2 014
Two dancers-in-training at a Siem

Reap school are among hundreds
across the country. Children as
young as six are selected to study
for their aptitude and exibility. A
good performer must have mastered
some 4,500 basic gestures.
QBUUBZB

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