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(16-24) and in the panegyric of don Rodrigo Manrique (25-32). This essay then shows how stanza 13 only
acquires full meaning in light of information that was available to the poem's contemporaries but has since
been neglected.
Key Words: Manrique (Jorge), Manrique (Rodrigo), Palencia (Alonso de), Spanish Medieval poetry, cosmetics and medicine, cativa, sierva, setora, elegy, defunzion, Coplas
J orge
Manrique's
Coplas porManrique,
la muerte
father,
don Rodrigo
(stanzas 1-13). The second (stanzas 14-24) don Rodrigo's death. Stanza 13 points to a
whole world of allusive signification only
provides concrete examples of bad choices,
barely perceived by modern readers.
and third section (stanzas 25-39) is devoted
The stanza in question appears towards
to the positive choices made by don
Rodrigo. These three sections are followedthe end of a cluster of stanzas about beauty
by a final stanza (40) that makes referenceand agility (8), lineage and honour (9), esto the grief and solace of the Manrique fam-tates and wealth (10), that are the deceitful
ily.
als whom death did not treat well and, finally, to one individual who, by living well,
vanquished death.
The importance of stanza 13 has not been
sufficiently recognized by critics, who have
corporal,
descompuesta!
(Cancionero de jorge Manrique 95)
sources of the metaphor and have not (slave) and the soul as sefiora (mistress or
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the poet's sources for the characterization at anything else if we could do that, and we
of the body as a slave of the soul. Stanza 13 would spend all our time decking out the
appears in a variety of places according to slave with every manner of adornments, althe print or manuscript one reads. Its ca- ways abandoning her mistress (domina) to
nonical placement, however, is as number greater ugliness and abandonment than any
13, and corresponds to its placement in the slave (servan)" (Ad Theodorum lapsum, PG
most reliable manuscripts and prints.2 Crit- 47: 295-96). St. John plays on the same
ics also debate the sources of the stanza.
chords as Manrique: we are permitted to
Menendez Pelayo, the first to comment make the soul beautiful but not the body.
on stanza 13, claimed that Manrique appro- Were we permitted to do otherwise, we
priated the comparisons in the stanza from would waste all our time pursuing the pera treatise entitled On the Contemplative Life fection of the ephemeral, to the neglect of
(De vita contemplativa) attributed to St. the eternal.
air. According to Lida, Philo was the origi- a Christian mode of life, perhaps even to
nator of the topic and was the first in a long become a monk. It seeks to attain its end by
line of authors to exploit its expressive pos- describing the deceitfulness of the world.
sibilities.3 She thought, however, that the Early in the exhortation, St Eucherius says:
portrayal of the soul as mistress of the body "For if some correctly called our flesh slave
only acquired its full Christian form in St. (famulam) and our soul mistress (domina)
John Chrysostom's Exhortation to Theodore we should not unjustly honor the slave be-
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Although Manrique's words echo St.society. It was justified by the belief that the
John's, they differ from St. Eucherius'sminds of women, slaves, and the young
Parenetic Epistle in significant ways. St.were either impaired or not fully formed,
Eucherius does not condemn the embeland thus were unable to effect the proper
lishment of the body. Instead, he comparesrule of the intellect over the passions.
the care one gives the soul to the care menWithin man himself, the rule of the intellect
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fuesse
en nuestro poder / hazer," though
the hierarchical principle, because the
paswe
do
not,
sions, unable to rule themselves, naturally says stanza 13, "como podemos
fell under the control of the intellect. For
governing themselves.7 This early Christian corruption of the Will to the use of cosmetbelief in man's innate ability to rule himself, ics.
born out of the antagonistic relations that Christian apologists often berated
existed between the Christian communitywomen for the use of make-up and ornaand the Roman Republic, began to be sup-mentation, considering both sinful because
to subjugate the body-its "lower servant"-to its will, St. Augustine compared
the rebellion of the senses and of the body
they had as their objective the enhancement of sexual allure. Tertullian (d. ca. 220),
for example, dedicated a whole work, commonly known as On the Apparel of Women,
to warning Christian women against the use
of fashionable dress, extravagant adornment, and cosmetics. He reminded women
that it was through their sex that sin entered
the world and advised them to dress in peni-
cultufeminarum 117).
of knowledge. Before Adam and Eve's transgression, their bodies were subject to their
sures as a rebellion of the body against natural will, which makes man work against his
best interests: "For what else is man's mis-
his not being willing to do what he could do, Similarly, Clement ofAlexandria (d. ca. 230)
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Works 91).
Ornatus: Cosmetics
is a correlation, naively propounded in The condemnation of the use of a hairL'ornement, between the use of cosmeticspiece falls within the type of adornment
and the desire to regain eternal life andcalled ornatus by Tertullian and was consid-
beauty (12).12 The sanguine approach of the ered a form of facial adornment. In both
author of L'ornement to the use of cosmet- stanza 13 of the Coplas and in Alvaro Gato's
ics runs strongly against the common grain,satire quoted above, the context suggests
for the condemnation of cosmetics was
that the soul has a "face" that is besmirched
never far from any discussion of the body.
by the act of beautifying the earthly face ("Si
This condemnation of cosmetics frefuesse en nuestro poder / hazer la cara
el alma tan gloriosa, / angelical,") or donrather than to the whole body. Alvarez Gato,
a contemporary of Manrique, employs the
ning an unmanly wig ("por her la cara
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13. The
worthy deeds ("mas las obras esforgadas
/ next section exemplifies the result
eran caras de los onbres"). The soul of
is this
of- pursuit by referring to the famous
ten described as having a face which can
contemporaries
be
in the ubi sunt stanzas (14blemished by sin. Fray Lope Fernandez
24). They
de
are opposed by the stanzas that
devoted to don Rodrigo (25-39). Stanza
Minaya, for example, in his Espejo del are
alma
names the Will "el rostro del criminal" 13
and
foreshadows this opposition in its conbetween the face of the body ("hazer
considers each of the capital sins to trast
be the
stains that defile its beauty:
la cara hermosa / corporal" 146-47) and the
indi-
Given the nature of fifteenth-century panfallaria en si cosa fea que oviese de emendar, nin mancilla que oviese de alimpiar. Mas lo uno, por egyrics,
el peca- the reader expects an exposition of
do original en el qual se ensuzia el Anima luego
don que
Rodrigo's achievements to follow his
se ayunta al cuerpo, el qual heredamos de nuestro paintroduction into the poem in stanza 25. Indre AdAn, lo otro, por los pecados actuales que des-
stead,
there is an assessment of the man's
pubs fazemos de cada dia, mancillase e af6ase
este
tioned
an exact source for Manrique's stanza.
Therepresents a single quality that is
present
metaphor is used too widely. However,
if in don Rodrigo. Octavian is fortune,
Caesar is valor, Scipio is virtue, Hannibal is
the use of cosmetics is a sign for the effects
of sin on the face of the soul (and the wisdom,
use of Trajan is charity, etc. The inescap-
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[737a28]) and children because their rearule, then threatened by the ambition of
soning is still defective (Politics 1324b21-2).
men. He concludes by recommending his
With the old, the situation is differentL
The
family
to the king and queen: "Muy
trabajos e intolerables
"opulence...honors, fame, prestige,extremados
and
glory" (lohannes Lodovicus Vives, dispendios
De
les habian reducido a la iltima
Kings
tia). The implications of the passage
are could counterbalance. The poem
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PG 47:soul?
277-316. Twenty-eight Greek and forty-seven
how do you adorn the "face" of the
Latin manuscripts survive, the latter usually with the
The answer, we have seen, is contained
in
166, n. 2.
cure and should therefore be considered the princitierra." Don Rodrigo's true worth, the true
pal doctor of both body and soul (Espejo del alma 2:
adornment of his soul, lay in those virtues
248). "E por ende, devDis saber que, ansi como en las
P alencia,
with the
benefit ofhowever,
hindsight, knew writing
that the
wishes expressed in don Rodrigo's
m NOTES
the poem is considered to be. On the structure of themetic-is of Greek origin. It is related to cosmos by its
root and it implies something applied to the natural
Coplas, see Dominguez 63, 72-73.
2 Stanza 13 appears as number 13 or as number 7order of things. As such, it is more neutral than the
term used by the Latin poets and biblical exegetesin most editions of the poem.
3 St. Ambrose, for example, relies heavily on Philo medicamina-which evokes the use of medicines,
in his treatment of the relationship between the bodyphilters, and poisons. It is in this line that we should
and the soul in Death as a Good: "The soul, then, isconsider Ovid's De medicaminefacieifeminae and his
the user, the body that which is being used, and thusbetter-known Ars amatoria and the Remedia amoris.
the one is in command, the other in service; the one We should also keep in mind the aforementioned link
is what we are, the other what belongs to us. If any- made by these writers between cosmetics and slavery,
one loves the beauty of the soul, he loves us; if any- a common institution in the ancient and medieval
one loves the beauty of the flesh, he loves not the man world. Slaves and prostitutes are often depicted as
himself, but the beauty of the flesh, which quicklyexcelling in the use of cosmetics. The admonition is
wastes away and disappears" (St. Ambrose: Seven Ex-to avoid both slaves and prostitutes and cosmetics. For
the treatment of gender by the Roman poets, see Amy
egetical Works 91).
4 Paraenesis sive adhortatio ad Theodorum lapsum, Richlin, "Making Up a Woman: The Face of Roman
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ics see: Marcia Colish, "Cosmetic Theology: TheG. Marinnello's Gli ornamenti delle donne [1562]).
Transformation of a Stoic Theme" 3-14.
10 Tertullian, De cultu feminarum 136; also Innocuss the bibliography about the symbolic value of hair
in Off with Her Head.
cent III: "An artificial countenance is plastered on, the
natural face covered up, as if man's skill could surpass
the art of his Creator. Not so, not so...But far be it that
0
WORKS CITED
indeed, when the face is painted it takes on an abomiAlonso de Palencia. Cr6nica de Enrique IV. 5 vols
nable stench...For what is more vain than to comb the Trans. by D.A. Paz y Melia. Madrid: Revista de arlocks, paint the face, smooth the hair on the head, chivos, 1908. 3: 309.
Paul uses the metaphor repeatedly (f. ex., Romans Seven Exegetical Works. The Fathers of the Church:
13:14; 1 Corinthians 15:53; 2 Corinthians 1:5.
A New Translation. Trans. by Michael P. McHugh.
" L'ornement des dames (Ornatus mulierum) 32. Washington: Catholic U P, 1972.
"Quant Deus out la femme fete, / De la coste Adam
Augustine, Saint. De civitate dei. 2 vols. Corpus
est traite, / Baut6 la duna perdurable. / Mes ele perdi Christianorum: Series Latina XLVIII. Turnholt:
par le deble / Puis que ele out la pume gust6; / Mult Brepols, 1955.
Barnes, Jonathan, ed. The Complete Works ofAristotle.
en fu disonur6." In spite of its Latin title, the 13th century Ornatus mulierum is the oldest collection of cos- 2 vols. Princeton, NJ: Princeton UP, 1984.
grecque.
Foulch6-Delbosc, R., ed. Cancionero castellano del sidevoted exclusively to the subject is Trotula of
Salerno's Ornatus mulierum [also known as De ornatu
glo XV. 2 vols. Madrid: Bailly-Bailliere, 1912-15.
mulierum or as Trotula minor]. Often appended to theGrillet, Bernard. Lesfemmes et lesfards dans l'antiquiti
Trotula major, a work on the ailments of women of grecque. Lyon: Centre National de la Recherche
which over twenty-five manuscripts survive, the Scientifique, 1975.
Trotula minor is divided into the following chapters:John Chrysostom, Saint. Paraenesis sive adhortatio ad
"De ornatu faciei, De ornatu labiorum, Qualiter dentes Theodorum lapsum. PG 47: 277-316.
dealbantur et mundificantur, Ad fetorem oris, Contra-. A Theodore. Introduction, texte critique, traduction
Cerf, 1966.
m6dicales," Romania 32 (1903): 268-99; "Les
-. In Matthaeum Homil. PG 57: 287.
manuscrits frangais," Romania 32 (1903): 18-120;
"Manuscrits medicaux," Romania 44 (1915-17): 161Lida de Malkiel, Maria Rosa. "Una copla de Jorge
214; also L'ornement 10, n. 2 and 6. More general treat- Manrique y la tradici6n de Fil6n en la literatura
ments on the care of the body like Aldobrandino da espaiola." Revista de Filologia Espaiola 4 (1942):
Siena's La rigime du corps (Vatican Library, MS 152-71. (Reprinted in Estudios sobre la literatura
Palatinus Latinus 1967) are also not very common. espafiola del siglo XV. Madrid, 1977. 145-78.)
L'ornement des dames (Ornatus mulierum). Texte
Only in the sixteenth century do books on the proper
care of the body become more plentiful (for example, anglonormand du XIlle sikcle. Ed. by Pierre Ruelle.
A. Firenzuola's Dialogo della bellezza delle donne [Flo- Brussels: Presses Universitaires de Bruxelles,
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1967.
Richlin, Amy "Making Up a Woman: The Face of RoManrique, Jorge. Cancionero de Jorge Manrique. Ed. man Gender." In Eilberg-Schwartz and Doniger
185-213.
Augusto Cortina, 4th ed. Madrid, 1960.
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