Documentation

ON

Embossing finish in textiles

Made by
Ravi Kant Singh
Gopal Krishna

Embossing is a technique in which images and patterns are created on the

surface of a product through the application of heat and pressure. Embossing
is a natural and elegant process which changes the nature of the material on
which it is done. Also known as Blind Printing, and Relief Printing, it is the
creative impression of a design, decoration, or pattern on any surface. During
the process of embossing, the surface of the embossed material raises adding a
new dimension to the object. Embossing can be done on various materials like
paper, metals, textiles etc.
Embossing in its simplest form is the pressing onto the surface of a fabric of a
two Dimensional design.
With the aid of heat and pressure in the presence of moisture these design can
be elaborate or an aid to further processing as in preparation of acetate fabrics
for crepe
Textile Embossing:
Any fashion savvy person would like to wear outfits with three dimensional
images or designs. Textile embossing is generally done on smooth surfaces.
This is done by pressing the fabric under high pressure, and at high
temperature, in a special backing creating a three dimensional effect giving a
unique look to the garment.
This is different from the regular engraving or printing in which plates are
pressed against the surface to create an imprint. In embossing the pressing
raises the surfaces adding a unique and appealing effect to the fabric.
Bleached, dyed, or printed fabrics singed with a preliminary finish and
chemically unmodified fabric is used for embossing. Working pressure
depends on the quality of the cloth, the embossing design, and the different
pressing areas of the design. This is durable, with an average life of 50-60
washings.
Embossing in textiles is mainly used in non-woven such as napkins, diapers,
tissue papers etc. Apart from this it is also used in apparels like T-shirts which
gives a very trendy look to the outfit. Additional effects on embossing can be
done by decorating the embossed surface with embroidery or screen printing.

Types of Embossing:
Blind Emboss: in which the embossed image and the fabric surface are
the same.
Tint Emboss: Here a pastel foil or pearl is used. This is much in demand
currently.
Single Level Emboss: where the image area is raised to one flat level.
Multi-Level Emboss: in which the embossed image is raised to different
levels to give a depth to the embossing.
Printed Emboss: where the embossed part registers with a printed
image.
Registered Emboss: where the printed image is embossed to give a raised
look.
Glazing: This is a polished emboss used on dark colored surface.
More heat and pressure is applied during embossing which give a
shine to the fabric surface. This method is most commonly used for
contrasting designs.

Embossing calendaring:

Embossing is a particular calendaring process through which a simple

pattern can be engraved on the cloth. The machine is made up of a
heated and embossed roller made of steel, which is pressed against
another roller coated with paper or cotton, its circumference being
exactly a whole multiple of the metal roller. A gear system drives the
harmonized motion of the roller. A gear system drives s the harmonized
motion of the rollers, preventing them from sliding and granting a sharp
engraving of the patterned design. After being engraved, the pattern can
be stabilized by means of an appropriate high-temperature treatment or
by applying suitable starchy substances.
The process can be applied of fabrics made of all types of fibres with the
exception of wool. This finish is pre-treatment when applied to fabrics
made of thermoplastic fibres. It is not permanent when applied to
untreated fabrics made of natural fibres or man-made fibres that are not
thermoplastic; however, if these fabrics are treated with certain chemical
resins, the embossing is considered to be pre-treatment. To preserve
the embossed finish of such fabrics, they should be washed in lukewarm
water with a mild soap, never be bleached, and be ironed on the wrong
side while damp.
Advantages:
a) Crepes or pebble effect may be produced.
b) Temporary and permanent effect may be produced by different of
pressure and heat.
c) Due to smaller metallic bowl, cost is less.
d) Generally used for synthetic fabrics. It cannot create any effect
on cotton fabric.

EMBOSSED FINISHES
Deep embossed finishes: Simulated weave designs produced by relief
engraving (e.g. honeycomb pique), geometric motifs, figured designs.
Silk finish: not produced by the fabric design but rather light reflectances
resulting from imprinting fine ripple lines ranging from a soft, silky matt
shimmer to a high lustre, associated with virtually all possible handle
variations.
Echolux finishes: A type of silk finish involving light and shadow effects
created by the diverse directions of the ripple lines defined by the
design.
Embossed moir finish: varied matt lustre patterned finishes created by
flinted embossing.
Lustre finishes: vary in extent and definition, ripple lines follow the
design or fill out the design areas framed by contours.
Cire finishes: produced not by fluted engraving, but by relief engraving
with a smooth surface, which involves operating against smooth finish,
relatively hard mating rolls (Cire calendar with a heated engraved steel
roll, a cotton roll and, to retain the smooth finish, a heated plain steel
roll), in other words without forming a reverse image. The design is
fused in between the smooth faces of the embossing cylinder and the
cotton roll (e.g. into acetate fabric ), with moir relief engraving: Cire
moir finish.
Embossed finishes: simulated lace and embroidery and burnt-out
patterns(finely perforated contours and burnt out designs), also delightful
combination effects(burning out and embossing or printing and burningout and embossing) on, acetate and synthetic textiles, produced on the
same calendar with steel roll relief engraving and at high temperatures
(electric heating)

 Colour embossed finishes: generally bleached, dyed or printed fabric of

even wetting capacity, singed, possibly with preliminary finish but
chemically unmodified. Loss in tensile strength is minimum 10-30%
(weft normally more at risk), largely dependent on and controllable via
suitable fibre quality (long- staple cotton, fine yarn),weave density.

3D or Raised Embossing
The embossed design is permanent if the fabric has thermoplastic
fiber content or if a resin is used and heat set.
Often used in combination with foil stamping, embossing is a
process that alters the surface of paper stock or other substrates
by providing a three dimensional or raised effect on selected
areas. The procedure requires the use of two dies: one that is
raised and one that is recessed. The dies fit into each other so
that when the paper is pressed between them, the raised die
forces the stock into the recessed die and creates the embossed
impression. A specific level of pressure is applied to the dies in
order to squeeze the fibers of the paper, which results in a
permanently raised area in the paper.
When the dies are produced, a die maker engraves the desired
image into several metal plates, which are the embossing dies for
use on an embossing press. A thorough understanding the
process will enable a more successful result. Generally,
embossing is the process most often employed to attract attention
or convey a high quality textural contrast in relation to the
surrounding area of the paper stock.

Embossing Effect
Embossed fabrics have a pattern imprinted or embossed into the fabric.
The embossed pattern is created by passing the fabric between a
heated embossing roller and a shaped paper roll.
Damask effect can be produced but the effect is temporary. It lasts
longer on mercerised fabric.
The degree of lustre may be modified by :- heating the chilled iron roll,
pressure at the nip, speed of the m/c, moisture percent present in f/c etc
2-bowl embossed roller or 3-bowl embossed roller arrangement can be
used.

References:
Understanding textiles by Phyllis G. Tortora and Billie J. Collier
Textile finishing by J.T. Marsh