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However, vinyl fencing can break if subjected to a direct impact (e.g., an automobile running
into a fence line). Posts, pickets and rails are easily replaced if damaged.
4 Vinyl fence has a long-lasting color. The high-gloss, UV-stabilized finish resists fading and
discoloration.
5 During the life of the product you should not expect to find surface cracking, peeling,
chipping or rot.
6 Vinyl Fencing does require a limited amount of maintenance. Under normal conditions this
maintenance is in the form of periodic washing of the fence to keep it looking new.
Vinyl products will, as with all exterior products when subjected to extended damp weather,
collect mold and mildew. They are, however, easily cleaned with a solution of mild household
detergent and water.
However, before you order vinyl fencing you should know:
2 Hammer a wooden stake at each corner of the proposed fenced area. Once your corners are
marked, measure diagonally to make sure that your area is square (if the diagonals are equal then
area is square).
3 Measure the perimeter to determine how much wire fence and how many posts are required
to complete the job.
Welded wire comes in rolls from 25 feet to 100 feet. The smaller rolls are easier to
handle, but the larger rolls generally cost less.
To determine the number of interior posts per side and accurate placement, divide the
length of the side by the distance between posts and subtract 1. For example, two corner
posts 50 feet apart require four interior posts set at 10 feet apart. Add the number of
interior posts to the number of corner posts to determine how many total posts are
necessary.
4 Place your corner T-posts. Remove your wood marking stake. In its place, pound your T-post
2 feet into the ground with a hammer or a steel post driver. Generally, corner posts should be
sunk in the ground with concrete to ensure theyre stable. A T-post is likely to bend from the
force of the stretched welded wire.
5 Once all the corner posts are pounded in, tie string line from corner post to corner post to
provide a straight guide for the placement of interior posts. By tying it as close to the top of the
posts as possible, you can use the string to gauge how high to set your interior posts, ensuring
they all rise to approximately the same height.
6 Measure the distance from the corner to the first post you want to place. Pound the post into
the ground. Install according to type. You may combine post types, using wooden posts at
corners for strength and T-posts for the interior posts to save money. Plumb the posts and remove
the string.
7 - Starting at a corner, attach the end of your roll of welded wire. Use the baling wire or metal
ties to tie the wire to the post at the top, the middle and the bottom. Once the roll is attached,
carefully unroll and stretch the wire to the next post. Tie the wire to the pole. Continue to the
corner. Once you reach the corner, carefully stretch the wire around the corner and continue to
the next post. Continue unrolling the wire and attaching to the posts until you are finished.
8 Cut the fencing with heavy wire cutters or bolt cutters into manageable sections according to
the length of the fence and how much you can lift at a time. Galvanized slice-cut staples work
well with wooden posts. Tie the fence to metal t-posts or pipe fencing using sections of baling
wire. Place a staple or tie at each horizontal wire.
Posted in GATES & FENCES | No Comments
Gate openers have become as much of a standard and a necessity as the garage door opener.
More gates are seen with operators today than ever before. And when it comes to driveway gates
and all gate accessories, the most important thing you need is a gate opener. Why?
Automatic driveway gate openers and access control systems complete the package allowing
access for you, your family, friends and guests without standing in the rain, snow, cold and
windy weather.
Also, gate openers are affordable, easy to install and provide security for the homeowner.
An automatic gate system may be as simple as an opener, a receiver, and a clicker. This works
very well for you and the family just give everybody a remote to put in the car.
Several intercom systems are available but can run into significant dollars. Access can be
provided with a key pad, intercom, telephone entry or remote control system. A controlled or
free-exit operation can be activated by electronic detectors, timers and safety loops.
Several things should be considered when choosing and installing your gate opener. The biggest
difference with gate openers however is no gate is the same; they are hung on different hinges,
on columns or posts, made of different materials, have different power access, subjected to
different wind and weather conditions, are picketed or tube or solid, open many or only a few
times a day, and many other conditions that affect your gate opener choice.
2. Semi-Privacy Wooden Fence: Boards have a gap between each one of 1-3 inches so that it is
possible to see through the fence, but it still serves its purpose to keep people out, or your pet in.
3. Split Rail Wooden Fence: This wooden fence style typically will have posts every 8 and then
have 2 3 rails running parallel to the ground with gaps in between each of the 3 rails and the
ground. Often times another board is added to the top laying flat on the top rail.
4. Picket Fence: Probably the most popular fence of all time is the picket fence. Its a very
traditional style which has almost become iconic in North America.
Despite the variety of wooden fence styles, there are three basic components for building
wooden fences: posts; rails; panels.
Building a Wooden Fence:
Building a wood fence yourself requires you to do good planning before hand, so know where
your panels will run up to, stop, and how they will connect.
1. Lay out a line where the fence is to be installed which usually will be along your property.
2. Determine the height the fence should be to meet your needs. Privacy wooden fence will be 6
feet height.
3. Set your end posts. You need to know where you will place to corner posts.
Dig posts holes; Dig your post holes deep enough to support the fence structure. Use a
regular post hole digger to dig the post holes.
Place the end posts in the holes, and fill in around the posts with concrete, but first check
their verticality (if theyre plumb).
These are the posts located at either end or any corners along the fence. (Wooden fence posts are
one of the most common materials used to install fences. There are several procedures to treat the
wood so the posts can long last and resist decay and bugs. The common type of wood posts are
made are cedar and redwood).
4. Pull a builders line from one end post to the other, at an equal height above the ground. This
will allow you to dig the intermediate holes in alignment with the fence, and give you a depth so
that the posts will all be the same height. Lay out the post holes between the end posts eight feet
center to center, and dig the rest of your holes. You need to dig your holes deep enough because
properly set fence posts will hold all the other components in place.
Posts sometimes stand only as high as the tops of the fence panels. In other wooden fence styles,
the posts are allowed to extend above the panels.
NOTE:
Take time to measure and position the posts accurately. The appearance and the structural
strength of your fence depend a great deal on the positioning of the fence posts.
Set all wood fence posts with about 1/3 of their total length buried in the ground. This is
especially important on corner posts and any posts that will carry heavy weight or
withstand high wind pressure.
You can anchor the posts more firmly by making the holes slightly larger at the bottom
than at the top.
Use a wood preservative to treat the section of the post that will be underground.
Brace each post with stakes after it is properly aligned. Keep the stakes in position until
the concrete has thoroughly set.
5. Rails:
Rails do the spanning work in wooden fences, connecting one post to the next. They are the
horizontal elements, running parallel to the ground. Top and bottom rails are almost always
found in wooden fence styles; many will also have middle rails.
6. Panels (Boards):
It is the rails to which the panels will be attached.
Panels are sometimes attached so as to obscure the posts on one side or the other. Alternatively,
the posts may be allowed to jut out in relief on one or both sides.
7. Paint the finished fence with a good quality waterproofing sealer. This will usually either
contain silicone solids, or linseed oil. If you plan on painting finish paint, stick with an oil based
sealer, and use oil based polyurethane paint or exterior enamel for the finish paint.
Tips:
Installing a fence on hill, or steep land can be tricky. Set posts at locations where the grade or
slope changes, and average the height of the fence for best appearance.
Conclusion:
There are literally hundreds of variations in fence styles and construction materials. There is preassembled wood fencing sections as well as fencing materials made from recycled milk jugs. The
type of fence you use depends primarily on the purpose.
take precautions to protect your back while doing the construction, as you will be repeatedly
lifting objects, some of which may be large and heavy.
Decide where you are interested in building the fence. Calculate the length and height of the
desired fence. A well-built stone wall does not require mortar to hold the stones together,
although it is often used to provide additional stability. You can introduce mortar within the core
of the wall, keeping the appearance of dry-stone walling.
Get a lot of stones. Determine how much stone you will need. Find out what stone will work best
aesthetically with your project.
Granite and limestone are common types of stones used in fence building. Use a good mix of
large and small stones evenly throughout the fence, rather than using all the large ones for the
bottom and only small for the top portion. The even dispersion of the stones is necessary for the
support of the structure.
Prepare the ground by digging a trench. It is very important to make sure the soil is sturdy before
you start, and will hold your wall. Fill the trench loosely with gravel. Placing larger, flatter stones
on top of the gravel will add a firm footing.
Use a hammer and chisel to shape the stones to your liking, but take care not to hit them too
hard, because this can lead to breakage. Be gentle and precise.
When you start forming the fence lay out a side rail (with something long like sticks, rulers,
wood, small stones) to guide you, and outline where you want your wall, so that your wall is
consistent. To make a straight and level wall, get string or flagging tape and tie it between posts
on both ends of the fence. Make sure to tie the string / flagging tape at the height you want your
fence to use as a guide.
When you select the masonry, look out for flat stones in a variety of sizes and make sure you
have some large enough to run the full width of the wall, especially at the base of the structure.
Even a low wall will inevitably include some heavy stones. Place the stones down upon the
footing one row at a time. Consider adding a slight pitch to the fence to allow for better water
run-off. Fit the stones together like pieces in a puzzle. Add cement or crushed screenings
between uneven stones to keep them secured in place. To make a strong wall try to place each
stone over the gap between two stones beneath it.
For longer walls (50 or more feet) it is beneficial to build up the ends of a straight section (about
3 feet long). Then pull a string line between the completed ends, and build up the center between
them. This ensures the face of the wall is straight and even along the entire run.
NOTE:
Be especially careful when working on the corners of the fence. These spots will require
larger stones for the added support.
Use larger stones at the very top of the fence so that you have added stability.
Make sure its safe, not on top of any wires or any plumbing outlets.