Board Dimensions (W x H) 2.13 x 1.67 i.e.: 54.0mm x 42.4mm.

This new design will fit into a 1290NS/1590B size enclosure or

larger. We recommend a 125B enclosure or larger for beginners, and larger enclosures, e.g. 1590BB for those that want to add a lot
of mod switches and knobs. This project replaces the GBOMUltimate Muff Project.
There have been a wide variety of muff variants over the past ~40 years. A few of these are the Triangle, Rams Head, Violet Rams
Head, Russian, Mayo, Creamy Dreamer, etc. The muff circuit in each variant is nearly identical; only the values of certain parts
change. This document provides the values so that you can make the version you prefer.
Only one modification (mod) from the original muff circuit is described in this document. This one mod, included in our standard
build is a switch for the clipping section, which allows you to switch between the stock silicon diodes, LEDs, or disable clipping in
that gain section completely. If you want to build a completely stock muff without selectable clipping, the wiring diagram also
describes how to exclude this single mod. Because there are a lot of mods, and just deciding what mods to choose can be
overwhelming, we are keeping this build document simple.
An additional modification document for advanced builders describes six other mods which this board was specifically designed to
accommodate. We strongly recommend that all builders start first with a working, standard build following this document, and
then add any desired optional mods from the second document.
This board has PCB-mounted potentiometers, which mount to the under-side of the board. Later in this document, a drilling
template will be provided to assist you in drilling your enclosure accurately. We strongly recommend that the pots be soldered to
the board after the pots are mounted in the enclosure. This will help avoid damage to the board that may occur from builders
forcing soldered pots into the drilled enclosure holes. Enlarge the holes with a file or larger bit if things dont line up. You may also
wire your pots and arrange the knobs in your enclosure to suit your personal preference.

WIRING DIAGRAM

100n

100n

For variants that state 2N5133 or 2N5088, the lower gain 2N5133 was original. You can use the higher gain 2N5088, but you must put a ~33K resistor in R25.

** The SPDT switch is for the standard builds clipping selector. If you wish to have Silicon Diodes, LEDs and clipping disabled options,
use an On-Off-On SPDT. If you dont want the clipping disabled option, use an On-On SPDT.

IMPORTANT NOTES

Transistors may require a different orientation on the PCB than what is marked, depending on which transistor
make/model is used. The board is printed showing the correct orientation for a Fairchild 2N5088. Since not all muffs use the
same transistor, it is critical that you check the datasheet for the transistor you are using, and verify the pin orientation.
Below are a few quick results from an internet search for some common muff transistors. As you can see, the Motorola
BC550C and Fairchild 2N5088 pin-outs are reversed from one another.

R25As noted at the bottom of the parts list, the 2N5133 was lower gain, in fact, the specs state the minimum gain as
60hFE, whereas the 2N5088 has a minimum gain of 300hFE. If you use a 2N5133, R25 should be a jumper. If you use a
2N5088 or other higher gain transistor, you will need to insert a resistor in R25 to keep the pedal from squealing when all
knobs are all turned completely up. 33K is a good value to start with. A stock Mayo calls for the 2N5133 and a 2k7 value in
R25, but this same guidance applies if you change transistors.
You may use different transistors than the ones listed for each variant for tonal differences, however, see the 2 bullet
points above. Socketing the boards transistor pads may be worthwhile if you plan to experiment with this. Transistors used
in muffs include 2n5088 (which is our personal favorite and is widely available), 2N5133, BC550C, BC549 and more. Some of
the transistors are out of production and may be more difficult to acquire (such as the 2n5133), and actually may not sound
as good to you as a widely available part.
Per DCountry13s GBOM documentation, Some say that the secret to all Muffs is using ceramic caps where values are
100nf and lower. The 220nf caps can be metal film caps. This is not a rule!
Commercial muff manufacturers are known to have slightly modified part values, even within a particular muff variant. We
collected values from various sources and put what we felt was the best or most accurate values in the table on the
previous page. You may find that some other sources vary from the above.
We tried hard not to overload you with too much information in this standard build document. The muff is one of the
most popular circuits of all time, there are a lot of variations, and there is a ton of information on the internet for those that
want to learn more.
Additional mods and tips will be provided in the advanced builders Muffn mod guide PDF, on the GuitarPCB.com website.
We may add more to that document over time as demand dictates.

STATUS LED
D5 is a common anode bi-color LED
The diagram above shows the pin-out, schematic symbol and pad
connection for a common anode LED. The pin-out for the
bi-color LED is as follows:
1st Color Cathode
Common Anode
2nd Color Cathode

90 degree bend in the lead

Middle lead
45 degree bend in the lead

The lead 1 pad on the circuit board is marked with a white box.
When connected correctly, the LED will light red when power is applied and the circuit is in bypass mode. The LED will light green
when in effects mode. If you wish to use a standard LED, connect the anode to pad 2 and the cathode to pad 3 to show the circuit in
effects mode.

DRILLING TEMPLATE
7

When printed, this should be (W x H): 4 /16 x 6 or 113mm x 165mm.

This drawing provides a general guide for drilling a 1290NS/1590B enclosure. Hole diameters are not exact in this image, so please
measure your components before selecting a drill bit. Locations are approximate, and may need to be adjusted for different
styles/models/brands of components, so verify before using. Use at your own risk. Be sure to make sure page scaling is turned off
when you print this PDF, or the image above may be smaller than expected. You may want to adjust the position of the stomp switch
and LED if you do not plan to install a battery snap. DC Power could be installed on the left side instead if preferred.

This document, PCB Artwork and Schematic Artwork GuitarPCB.com. Version 1 Schematic and PCB by
DCountry13. Version 2 Schematic (based on v1), PCB and this document by Bruce R. Use of PCB and schematic
artwork for any purpose other than to build a board purchased from GuitarPCB.com without written permission is
prohibited. Distribution of this document is prohibited without written consent from GuitarPCB.com. Trademarks
and brands mentioned above belong to their respective owners.