Beruflich Dokumente
Kultur Dokumente
The term craft refers to a set of activities that involve skill, and dedication
of the apprentice to produce a desired object.
Academic craft cluster initiative presentation module is an intrinsic part of
the Textiles Design curriculum at NIFT.
Craft documentation includes field study, researching the craft, material
culture of the interlinked craft societies, ethnographic study through
interviews, photographs, videos and sketches. It is a process of learning
wherein one has to go through various stages of field study, secondary
research,
primary
research,
market
study,
photography
and
documentation.
This document contains research on gota Patti n Rajasthan.This document
contains details information about the crafts and the various people from
artisans, designers to industrialists involved in the processes.
ACKNOWLEDGEMENT
Academic craft cluster initiative is a part of Fashion design curriculum at
NIFT. We would like to express our sincere gratitude NIFT, Gandhinagar for
providing us with the opportunity to conduct this research.
We heartily thank Mr. Sudhir Tripathi, director general, national institute of
fashion technology, ministry of textiles, and government of India, for
encouraging us towards craft initiative works.
We would like to thanks Mr. Arindam Das, director, NIFT, Gandhinagar for
his constant support and guidance.
We would like to acknowledge the guidance and support provided by Dr.
Kruti Dholakia, course coordinator and assistant professor, NIFT,
Gandhinagar.
Our acknowledgement to academic craft cluster initiative coordinators Dr.
Aditi mertia, associate professor, FD department NIFT Gandhinagar. They
provide us the opportunity to understand and document the craft of gota
Patti we thanks them for being our inspiring mentor throughout the
journey from research work and field study to compilation and
documentation.
At the end we would like to thanks nayla village people who helped us alot
in our craft.
ABOUT NIFT
ABSTRACT
The Nayla village at Jaipur district of Rajasthan is famous for Gota Patti
works on ethnic costume and fabrics. This study is carried out to
determine the internal factor evaluation (IFE) and external factor
evaluation (EFE) by SWOT analysis of Nayla cluster. IFE and EFE matrix
enable to select the influence of key external and internal factors resulting
in weighted factor values for each set of variables.
ABOUT JAIPUR
Jaipur, the largest city and the capital of Rajasthan, is also referred to as
Pink City. Built by Sawai Jai Singh, this place was India's first planned city.
With spectacular hilltops and stunning fortresses, Jaipur is major tourist
attraction among both national and international tourists. This royal city
captivates travellers as it is known for its rich culture and tradition,
magnificent art and artefacts, and brilliant past. The serene temples, the
long standing forts and palaces, and beautiful havelis with royal touch to
them; add on to the glory of Jaipur. Wonderful landscapes, marvellous
flora and fauna, picturesque views; all together create a mesmerising view
of this place. Only forts and monuments aren't the attractions of this pink
city, the intricate handicraft items and exquisite jewellery also catch the
eyeballs of tourists.
GOTTA PATI
Gota Patti work also known as Lappe Ka Kaam or Gota Kinari Work ", the
most famous work of Rajasthan" and origin of this craft. Gotapatti
traditionally worked on temple idols, cloths on offering prayer, on royal
outfits (Mughal Era). These outfits especially worn on auspicious days,
weddings.
Traditionally Gota was done using fabrics like heavy cottons, silk and
velvet as base fabrics. Now with the change in fashion, Gota is being used
upon sheer cotton tie-dye sarees, silk, satin, chiffons and crepes. Royal
odhnies or dupattas were heavy and grand embroidered elaborately with
different sizes of gota ribbons and were quite ornate.
Apart from its use in the wearables, outstanding Gota work was done on
the home accessories and the decor done in the houses in that era. Door
fringes, platter cover, animal saddles and even for the costumes of the
deities it was decorated and adorned with Gota to beautify and add
richness to the glory of god.
During marriages and other family occasions Gota was put on the groom's
garland and also used on many other gift artefacts that were used to offer
and exchange as a tradition of the customs followed.
NAYLA VILLAGE
Nayala is a village panchayat located in the Jaipur district of Rajasthan
state, India. The latitude 26.9361935 and longitude 75.9956672999999
are the geocoordinate of the Nayala. Jaipur is the state capital for Nayala
village. It is located around 19.5 kilometers away from Nayla. The other
nearest state capital from Nayala is Delhi and its distance is 203.5 KM.
The other surrounding state capitals are Raipur 219.9 KM., Delhi 226.7 KM.
Dehradun 413.2 KM.
It is a cluster of Gota Patti and Zardozi artisans, which has developed
naturally due to easy availability of raw materials and human resources.
The work of Gota Patti started in Nayla in 1981. This work is a prime
source of employment in Nayla. 80% of the majority population is entirely
dependent on this work. People of all castes and religions reside here but
the majority of Hindus are engaged in the Gota Patti work. And the other
20% either work or own general store or are vegetable sellers, chai wala,
etc.
Aari-tari handmade work has been practiced for long in the village. Nayla
and its neighbouring villages are renowned for the Aari-tari work, they
work mainly on sarees.
The estimated number of artisans in the cluster is around 3500,
performing the art of Gota patti directly under the supervision of a master
trainer.
The Gota patti and Zardozi cluster is predominantly spread within the
geographical yards including three other villages namely - Ranjipura
,Meenokabad and Harikishanpura. Many of the clusters are not included in
these villages but instead form a group of 5-6 family, also called Dhandi.
The human resources involved in the art are unskilled, semi-skilled and
skilled type.
Nayla artisans
1. Artisan- Bansi Dhar Yogi
Age- 40 years
Contact number- 9950553934
His father was a haldari and his brother had his own general store in
nayla. He is married and have 2 daughters.
Bansi ji did his schooling till 10th standard, and started working
during 1990s. Material cost of 1 saree takes 300 which is then sold
for 3000. His monthly income is around 15000 20000.
2. Artisan- Prahlad
AgeContact number- 774287558
At the age of sixteen he started working on gota patti, his working
time is morning 5am to 5pm and it takes 5-6 days just to complete
one saree
His father does construction work and his brother does gota patti
work.
Material cost of one saree takes 500 and it sells for 5000
MATERIALS
1. Weaving
In Weaving, there are three types of yarn and these are:a. Resham
f. maxobond: Its a fabric glue used sticking the gota Patti on the fabric
before the embroidery is done on it.
TOOLS
1. Adda(wooden frame)
Craftsmen tuck the fabric on Adda (which is a wooden frame) for doing the
work.
2. Peetan(wooden block and hammer)
Peetan is a type of hammer which is used to beat the work to set it.
3. Fatelah(wooden block to rap thread)
Fatelah is a wooden block on which a Zari Thread is rolled to work easily.
4. Needle
It is used in embroidery work and also while tucking the fabric on Adda.
GOTA
Gota has harnessed within its weave the actual dream in occasions.
Venturing in the markets of Surat, Ajmer and Jaipur (in very small scale)
where these are produced. Gota has become the actual ubiquitous accent
of any royal dress. During Mughal and Rajput era gota were made of real
gold and silver. In routine the base metal is copper coated by silver or
gold. Presently, copper has been replaced by polyester film which is
metalized and coated as per requirements. This has result in better quality
at lower cost.
Yarn is then hanged on stand and drawn up to the machine by manual
process
Weaving machine is run by electricity and woven fabric comes out in a
ribbon form.
The ribbons are cut into desired lengths as per the need of the customers
and roll is made and tied.
Later on it is supplied to the people to make laces, for making different
designs on it or for the punching process with which the different shapes
comes out. And then finally supplied to the artisans for the creative work.
MANUFACTURING PROCESS
The first step in preparing the loom is warping, where the zari is warped
on a
wheel like structure, locally called charkha. Nowadays, the charkha is
power
operated and requires the supervision of just one person whose only task
is to
switch the machine on and off or to fix the yarn if it breaks due to tension.
Once the korns is ready the next step is to pass the
threads through the phanni, rollers and dropper(needle).
Korns are arranged in window frame in numbers according to width i.e. 32
korns of zari for width of gota ribbon.
The yarns from korns go through Phanni. Phanni are similar to combs in
that they have dents or slits, through which the thread is passed to
overcome the overlapping of yarns.
Basically there are two rollers, first is 5cm in diameter and second roller is
11cm.
Once this is done, the threads are passed through the Dropper. Dropper
are thin strips of metal with an eye in the center. The process of threading
the dropper is similar to the process of threading the needles. Every
individual thread must pass through the eye of the
dropper. The dropper drops down when the zari breaks at any stage which
rings a bell in machine so that the weaver can fix it again. Then through a
bigger, v- shaped phanni and a roller again before folding around final
charkha.
Once this process is complete, the loom is ready for weaving.
WEAVE
However, this process is not very time consuming as the widest gota
braid is not more than 3.5 inches. Since the looms are power operated, a
pencil shuttle, which has the resham weft, automatically moves on the
zari warp and the gota braid gets woven. Due to this, one weaver can
simultaneously operate two power-looms, since there is no manual
shuttling
involved. His main job is to keep a check on whether the machine is
functioning
properly or not. These machines are advanced, 6 different patterns of gota
can be weaved at same time. The charkhas are attached to another
window frame in the weaving machine. Each threads from charkha
(maybe its a set of 32 zari or its multiple) are adjusted through hands to
pass through a phanni, two sets of droppers and finally through Phawadi
which controls the warp yarns. And the resham (weft yarn) also called lock
threads which are arranged below, passes through chumbak and raj and
finally to the weave. Raj is controlled through a mechanism of wheels and
springs.
Usually the weave patterns are controlled by chain settings connected
below weaving machine. Gota can have two types of weave:
History of gota
Gota embroidery in the past was usually done by
folding the braid in different ways in order to create a variety of motifs
and
patterns and a range of different shapes such as triangles, diamonds,
hexagons etc.
were formed. This is still most popular form of gota embroidery.
PROCESS
a). Chhapayi - in hindi, Chhapayi means transferring the pattern on to
fabric. This process is more or less similar to the image transfer process
in hand or machine embroidery or textile printing procedure. Washable
chalk, carbon paper or indigo is used to make the pattern over the fabric.
If fabric is being prepared for clothe making, demarcation for margins and
seam is done in advance without cutting the fabric. The fabrics that are
used for this embroidery are mostly Tussar silk, chiffons and georgette.
Before transferring the pattern over the fabric, the piece of cloth is tightly
tied to a two sides khat, this process is called framing the cloth. It
becomes much easier to transfer the pattern on a framed piece of cloth.
Gota ribbon or lace is bulk produced by machines in factories. Plain gota is
mostly Silver, Gold or copper in color. This gota ribbon is folded and cut in
shape of required pattern before gluing it at the decided place (over the
transferred pattern). Once the gota shapes are properly set over the
tightened fabric piece, it is ready for Takaayi.
Mahalaxmi Emporium
Owner- Subhash Chandra Agarwal
This shop has a lot of variation in gota patti and the price ranges from
2000 to lakhs depending upon the design, they usually have clients from
the royal families. Their sale is maximum in wedding season, they do not
export their garments as they already have high sales specially in metro
cities, and they have worked with Bollywood too.
Aari Tari
Since 1996
Director- Ranu Jindal
Owner- Rajiv Jindal
Aari tari is quite popular when it comes to gota patti work, unlike other
shops aari tari have designers working under them which makes the brand
unique, they even have fashion shows to promote their designs. The price
ranges from 2000 to 250000(increase in border increase in price).
They have both heavy and light work garments with complete hand
embroidery, and the most used motifs are floral motifs. They do not use
geometrical motifs.
They export their garments, keep experimenting with their fabrics and
they customise the garments too as per customer needs.
GOTA
Owner- Anubhav arora
Price ranges from 500(lightweight kurta) to lakhs (heavyweight
lehangas)
They do not have designers as they believe in market experience which
according to him is more in artisans. They also keep swatches of designs
to show for customization.
They have more than 300 artisans working under them, they believe in
middle class customers as they visit again and again and show respect.
They used to have stores in San Francisco, South Africa and UK but had to
close them because of increase in export taxes.
MARKETTING
There isapproximate 3500 of people at Nayla cluster in which 2000
of them are men and rest are women. About 57% of the artisans
are male and rest 43% of them are female
Type of Job:
Permanent: 60 %,
Temporary: 40 % 5.
Skill Oriented Training:
Yes: 95 %, No: 5%
CHALLENGES:
Gotta Patti / Aari Tari cluster development project at Nayala, Jaipur
have Low wages ranging from Rs. 300 per day for 10 to 12 hours of
work. Gota Work is seasonal, and demand keeps changing from
season to season. The zardozi work has lower demand due to high
price and Design Limitations. The artisans produce garment with
obsolete design and no link to seasonal forecasts. Lack of
investment to set up their own business. Artisans face health
problems in the form of weak eyesight due to prolonged working
hours and increasing age. Weak eyesight limits the work tenure of
artisans up to 35 years only.
SWOT ANALYSIS
The SWOT matrix is a starting point of the stage two, which
confronts environmental threats and opportunities with internal
strength and weakness of a cluster. Its one of the most useful tool
for defining company strategic action by analyzing company internal
capabilities and external environment for recognize opportunities
and threats (Comen&Romen 2000).
STRENGTHS
The Gota Patti ribbons are machine made, easily available due to
high demand in domestic market. These demands are met to need
through fully trained artisans who are easily available. Moreover
minimum electricity is consumed in this process. Flexibility in
working hours and work from home provisions to motivate
employees, its gender specific. Easily availability of raw materials
and other inputs.
WEAKNESSES
1. Low wages for the artisans.
2. Government schemes and benefits are not reaching the grass
root artisans.
3. Less technical modernization and upgradation.
4.Irregular sales during the off-season are a negative factor in this
market.
5. No geographical indication
6. Intermittent work due to seasonal demands.
7. Inadequate working capital with artisans.
8. Limited access to markets.
OPPORTUNITIES
1. Availability of traditional & national promising markets.
2. Participation in trade fairs and training programme organised by
government.
3. To enhance knowledge of new design, colour combination and mix
of Aari Tari, zardozi and Gota Patti work.
4. To orient artisans in product designing and task completion.
5. Banking Credit facilities. Government sponsored activities and
schemes.
THREATS
1. Raw-material price varies, Increasing cost of transportation and
raw material cost.
2. Increasing popularity of non-loom techniques and other applique
techniques.
3. High cost of supply chain for National fairs and exhibitions in the
absence of retail outlets for direct selling.
NOW
Gota Patti is available for everyone
as copper coated with silver or
polyester thread is used.
Gota Patti now is mixed with
applique, zari, stone work and
different prints.
Gota Patti is cheaper so anyone can
afford it.
Gota is weaved by machines.
GARMENT USE
Earlier gota Patti work was worn by royalty, both men and women on
a daily basis but now it is worn only on special occasions.
Now it is usually worn by women as compared to males, while male
do wear gota work but very rarely (for example on their wedding
day).
Gota work is modified as per current demand and is used in a very
minimal way, now days it is even used in western garments and is
popular in international market too.
Our vision is to use minimal gota Patti work and in a way that it
doesnt lose its essence and design for young generation.
New Collection of Anita Dongre for the Bride of summer 2015. Fresh
pastels, light blues and her signature gota Patti work she continues to
delight her core fan base.
Actress Yami Gautam will be walking the ramp as the showstopper for the event.
The three-day long Vogue Wedding Show will start from August 5 at the Taj
Palace Hotel in the national Capital. Talking about the the Vogue Wedding
Show 2016, Dongre said: The Vogue Wedding show is on our annual
calendar to start the wedding season. It is the only time that prospective
brides can personally meet me. I look forward to interacting them. And
according to her, in India, couture is basically bridal couture.
Designers are getting more lavish with Indian craftsmanship, the
traditional weaves, gota Patti, zardozi and heirloom crafts, she said.
Dongre feels lehenga and sari are here to stay, as designers keep
reinventing them.
Esha Gupta attended Baba Siddiques Iftar party wearing a yellow chiffon
saree that featured gota Patti border paired with an ivory gota Patti work
boat neck blouse by Anita Dongre. Wavy hair and jewelry by Anita Dongre
Pink City finished off her look. She looked nice!
A model walks down the runway in a gorgeous lehenga with a net veil.
The brightly hued lehenga has very detailed gota Patti embroidery,
creating a luxe bridal look.