Product

Development
and analysis

FABRIC TESTING
REPORT

BY:
Devapriya(KOL13AP32)
SushmitaVerma(KGR13A
p15)
SEM-VII
N.I.F.T KOLKATA

SPECIFICATION SHEET
Style no.

WV # 669

Description
SIZE SET

Company

Cyborg Attach Division

Casual mens half pant

28,30,32,34,36

Size

34

Mens Bottom

Fabric

Poly Cotton (twill)

Fit

Regular

SWATCH

PRELIMINARY TEST:
MICROSCOPIC VIEW:
FABRIC TESTING REPORT

It shows the predominant nature of COTTON as the blend ratio of

the fabric is 70:30.

Figure 1: The Microscopic View of

cotton

BURN TEST :
In the burning test of the fabric,
RESULTS: It burns with a constant flame . Sticky bead is left by it.
After burning, it continues to glow. It gives out smell like that of a
burning paper. The smoke is gray or white. The ash is fine, soft
that can be easily crumbled.
FABRIC BURN TEST:
"Rapidly; yellow flame; continues burning, afterglow. Odor:
Paper.
Residue: Brown-tinged end; light-colored, feathery ash."
INFERENCE : It may be a cellulosic fiber ; might be cotton
CHEMICAL TEST:
1.Take 0.5 to 1.0 gms of blend sample, carefully weighed, and put it in a
test tube.(GARMENT FABRIC: FABRIC 1; SOURCED FABRIC: FABRIC 2)
FABRIC TESTING REPORT

2. Add 75% (w/w) Sulphuric Acid (M:L::1:200).

3. The reaction was activated by supplying heat, by keeping the test tube
on burner.
4.After 10 min the solute in the test tube was half dissolved.
5. The solution was allowed to cool for another 10 minutes.
7. The solute was filtered out with the help of filter paper.
8. It was bone-dried and weighed .
9.The residue was again transferred to another test tube.
10.100% meta cresol solution was added and was heated to the boiling
temperature (135 degree centigrade).
11. The solute was completely dissolved.

INFERENCE: the chemical test determined that the cellulosic fibre was
cotton as it dissolved in sulphuric acid and the other fibre was polyester as
it was dissolved in meta-cresol and hence weighed.
The constituent ratio was of cotton and polyester.

FABRIC TESTING REPORT

Figure 2 The fabric 1 is
dissolved in sulphuric acid

Figure 3 The fabric 1 is

heated and then cooled,
the solute is half dissolved

Figure 4 The residue is

filtered out from the
garment fabric

Figure 5 The fabric 2 is

dissolved in the sulphuric
acid

Figure 8 The fabric

Figure
1 is 9 The fabric 2 is also
heated in meta-cresol
heated in meta-cresol

Figure 6 The Figure

solution
7 The
is half-dissolved
heated and then
residue
cooled,
is filtered out
the solute is half dissolved

IDENTIFICATION BY THE KIND

OF WEAVE

FABRIC TESTING REPORT

The fabric of the garment has a twill weave determined

by the pick glass; it was 3 up 1 down i.e. 3 strands of
warp and 1 strand of weft are interlaced.

Figure 10
pattern

3 up 1 down weave

TEST TYPE:- GSM

FABRIC TESTING REPORT

GSM stands for grams per square meter. Fabric GSM means
weight of one square meter fabric in grams. GSM is also written as
gm/m2.
OBJECTIVES:
1. To determine the GSM of the given samples of fabric.
2. To compare the GSM of them.
THEORY:
The weight of a fabric can be expressed in two ways, either as the
weight per unit area or the weight per unit length; the former is
self explanatory but the latter requires a little explanation
because the weight of a unit length of fabric will obviously be
affected by its width. In woven fabric, the weight per unit length is
usually referred to as the weight per running yard. It is
necessary therefore to know the agreed standard width upon
which the weight per running yard is based. Usually this width
depends upon the width of loom. Before coming the term GSM
there was another term called lb/100 yards. This expression is
used by British Standard. For measuring this there are a template
and a quadrant balance. The template area is 1/100 square yards
of which each arm is 1/10 yards in length. For measuring GSM,
a GSM cutter is used to cut the fabric and weight is taken in
balance. Both of these measurement and method is equally used
for both woven and knitted fabrics.
APPARATUS:
1. Scissor
2. Electric balance.
ATMOSPHERE:
Temperature 25C and relative humidity 67%
Standard atmosphere: temperature 20C and relative

FABRIC TESTING REPORT

humidity - 65%.
Instrument used:- Precision Balance
METHODOLOGY:Take a sample of 10* 10 cm of fabric. Take the weight of its
using precision balance. Take the reading 10 times and average
out. Multiply the average reading by 100 to get the GSM.
Fabri
c

Samp
le 1

Samp Samp Samp Samp Samp Samp Samp Samp Samp Avera
le 2
le 3
le 4
le 5 le 6 le 7 le 8 le 9 le 10 ge

GSM

2.48

2.50

2.52

2.48

2.48 2.46 2.49 2.48 2.48 2.53

2.485

Average GSM =
2.48+2.50+2.52+2.48+2.48+2.46+2.49+2.48+2.48+2.50
10
= 2.485
GSM=

2.48*100
=

248

ACCORDING TO FORMULAE:
FABRIC GSM = (EPI/warp count + PPI/ Weft count) * (100 +crimp%) * 0.2327
= (130/19+61/26)*(100+5/100)*0.232
=249.81

FABRIC TESTING REPORT

Figure 11
1m

The GSM value1 for

Figure 12
2

The GSM value

Figure 13
value 3

The GSM

TEST TYPE:- EPI & PPI CALCULATION

Instrument used:- pick glass
METHODOLOGY:Take a sample of 10*10 cm of fabric swatch. Using a pique glass
count the no. of warp yarns per inch. Take 10 readings by placing
the pique glass on 10 different places of swatch. Take the average
of the reading to get EPI.Repeat the above process in the weft
direction to get the PPI.

FABRIC TESTING REPORT

FABRIC

PPI

EPI

Sample 1

60

130

Sample 2

61

129

Sample 3

60

130

Sample 4

59

129

Sample 5

61

131

Sample 6

61

129

Sample 7

61

130

Sample 8

60

128

Sample 9

61

130

Sample 10

61

130

Average

61

130

TEST TYPE: - YARN COUNT

Count is a numerical value, which express the coarseness or
fineness (diameter) of the yarn and also indicate the relationship
between length and weight (the mass per unit length or the
length per unit mass)of that yarn. Therefore, the concept of yarn
count has been introduced which specifies a certain ratio of
length to weight.
The fineness of the yarn is usually expressed in terms of its linear
density or count. There are a number of systems and units for
expressing yarn fineness. But they are classified as follows.

FABRIC TESTING REPORT

10

Types of Yarn Count:

1. Direct Count System
2. Indirect Count System
1. DIRECT COUNT SYSTEM:
The weight of a fixed length of yarn is determined. The weight per
unit length is the yarn count. The common features of aII direct
count systems are the length of yarn is fixed and the weight of
yarn varies according to its fineness.
The following formula is used to calculate the yarn count:
N= (Wl) / L
Where,
N =Yarn count or numbering system
W =Weight of the sample at the official regain in the unit of the
system
L=Length of the sample
l=Unit of length of the sample

FABRIC TESTING REPORT

11

In brief, definition of the above Systems is as follows

1. Tex system ..........................NO. of grams per 1000 meters
2. Denier .................................No. of Grams per 9000 meters
3. Deci Tex ..............................No. of grams per 10,000 metres
4. Millitex ................................No. of milligrams per 1000
metres
5. Kilotex............................... .No. of kilograms per 1000
metres.
6. Jute count........................No. of lb per 14,400 yds
The Tex of a yarn indicates the weight in grammes of 1000 metres
yarn. So that 40Tex means 1000 meters of yarn weigh 40gm.
From above discussion it is concluded that, higher the yarn
number(count) coarser the yarn and lower the number finer the
yarn.
2. INDIRECT COUNT SYSTEM:
The length of a fixed weight of yarn is measured. The length per
unit weight is the yarn count. The common features of all indirect
count systems are the weight of yarn is fixed and the Length of
yarn varies according to its fineness.

The following formula is used to calculate they are count:

N = (Lw) / Wl
Where,
N =Yarn count or numbering system
W =Weight of the sample at the official regain in the unit of the
system
L=Length of the sample
FABRIC TESTING REPORT

12

l=Unit of length of the sample

w = Unit of weight of the sample.

1. Ne: No of 840 yards yarn weighing in One pound

2. Nm: No of one kilometer yarn weighing in One Kilogram
The Ne indicate show many hanks of 840 yards length weigh one
English pound. So that 32 Ne Means 32 hanks of 840yards
i.e.32x840 yards length weigh one pound.
Instrument used:- Precision Balance
Methodology:Cut a swatch of 10 *10 cm of fabric. Take out 10 yarns in warp
direction from the swatch and tie a knot. Make 12 such bundles
using warp yarns. Take the weight by using 10 bundles. Take 10
such reading to get the warp count and
multiply by 100. Average out the 10 readings. Repeat the process
for weft direction.
WARP YARN COUNT:
Fabr
ic

Samp
le 1

Samp Samp Samp Samp Samp Samp Samp Samp Samp Avera
le 2
le 3
le 4
le 5 le 6 le 7 le 8 le 9 le 10 ge

FABRIC TESTING REPORT

13

VAL
UE

0.19

0.20

0.23

0.22

0.19 0.20 0.19 0.18 0.20 0.19 0.19

YARN COUNT (WARP)

= 0.19*100= 19TEX

WEFT YARN COUNT:

Fabr
ic

Samp
le 1

Samp Samp Samp Samp Samp Samp Samp Samp Samp Avera
le 2
le 3
le 4
le 5 le 6 le 7 le 8 le 9 le 10 ge

VAL
UE

0.27

0.25

0.26

0.26

0.24 0.25 0.26 0.24 0.25 0.26 0.26

YARN COUNT (WEFT)

= 0.26*100=26TEX

FABRIC TESTING REPORT

14

WEFT SAMPLE

WARP SAMPLE
TEST TYPE: - CALCULATION OF CRIMP PERCENTAGE
Instrument used:- pick glass
METHODOLOGY:
Take the weft yarns of 10 cm. one end of yarns is fixed on
table using cello tape. Pick glass is placed over the yarns and
the free end is pulled till its losses the crimp and become
straight. This length is measured.

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15

 Crimp%= ({new length original length}/ original

length ) *100
Fabric

Samp
le 1

Samp Samp Samp Samp Samp Samp Samp Samp Samp Avera
le 2
le 3
le 4
le 5 le 6 le 7 le 8 le 9 le 10 ge

Origin
al
lengt
h

10

10

10

10

10

New
lengt
h

10.5

10.6

10.5

11

10.4 10.5 10.5 10.8 10.4

10.5 10.5

Crimp
%

10

10

10

10

10

10

10

Average crimp %=(New length original length ) * 100

Initial length
=(10.5-10/10)*100
=5%

TEST TYPE: - PILLING TEST

SCOPE: Determines the resistance to the formation of pills and
other related surface changes.
Specimens are laundered 3 times and then conditioned in
atmospheric conditions for textiles

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16

 Specimens are mounted in the bottom table as well as in the

specimen holder
The machine is run for
100 cycles and
evaluated
It may be run up to
1000 cycles with 100
cycle evaluation
intervals
The specimens are evaluated in a viewing apparatus against
photographic standards (ASTM ADJD 3512) or in house fabric
standards
Specimen holder pressure is 3kPa
Instrument used:- ICI pilling Box
METHODOLOGY:The specimens are placed in a cork lined cylinder containing a
propeller device. The propeller causes the specimens to tumble
and rub against the cock liner. The edges of the specimens are
sealed so no unraveling of fibre loss occurs. The no. of rotations of
the cylinder has to be pre determined.

PILLING GRADES:
Grade
Grade
Grade
Grade

5
4
3
2

No or very weak formation of pills.

Weak formations of pills.
Moderate formations of pills.
Obvious formations of pills.

FABRIC TESTING REPORT

17

Grade 1 Severe formation of pills.

Instrument used:- ICICI pilling Box
METHODOLOGY:
The specimens are placed in a cork lined cylinder containing a
propeller device. The propeller causes the specimens to tumble
and rub against the cock liner. The edges of the specimens are
sealed so no un-ravelling of fibre loss occurs. The no. of rotations
of the cylinder have to be pre determined.
Fabri
c

Samp
le 1

Samp Samp Samp Samp Samp Samp Samp Samp Samp Avera
le 2
le 3
le 4
le 5 le 6 le 7 le 8 le 9 le 10 ge

Pillin
g
Clas
s
AVERAGE PILLING =

CREASE RECOVERY TEST

NAME OF THE EXPERIMENT:
Determination of fabric crease recovery
Introduction:
Crease is a fold in fabric introduced unintentionally at some
stages of processing. Crease or crushing of textile material is a
complex effect involving tensile, compressive, flexing and
FABRIC TESTING REPORT

18

tensional stresses. Crease recovery is a fabric property which

indicates the ability of fabric to go back to its original position
after creasing.
Objective:
To measure the crease recovery of the given fabric.
Theory:
Crease recovery is a measure of creases resistance, specified
quantitatively in terms of crease recovery angle. To measure this,
the popular instrument is Shirley crease recovery tester. The
instrument consists of a circular dial which carries the clamp for
holding the specimen. Directly under the centre of the dial there
is a knife edge and an index line for measuring the recovery
angle. Crease recovery is determined depending upon this
recovery angle. If the angle is 0o then recovery is zero and if the
angle is 180 degree then recovery is full. Crease recovery
depends on the construction, twist of yarn, pressure, time etc.
Usually crease recovery is more in warp way than in weft way.
This is because warp yarns are well in quality, strength, treated
with sizing, kept in more tension during weaving etc.

Apparatus:
1. Crease recovery tester
2. Scissor

FABRIC TESTING REPORT

19

3. Glass plates
4. Steel plates
5. Weight.

The greater the resistance of the fibres or yarns contained in

the material, the fewer and less sharp the wrinkles will be.
OBSERVATIONS:

Initial angle

At constant State

Warp wise
Weft Wise

COLORFASTNESS TO CROCKING:
This test method is designed to determine the amount of color
transferred rom the surface of colored textile material to other
surface by rubbing.
It is applicable to textiles made from all fibres in the form of yarn
or fabric whether dyed, printed or otherwise colour.
FABRIC TESTING REPORT

20
CROCKOMETER

 Crocking is the transference of color by

rubbing from one colored textile material to
another .
Similarly, printed fabrics often will crock
more easily than dyed fabrics because in
printed fabrics the dye is on the surface than
inside the fabric.
Dark shades are more likely to crock than
light colors because there is more dye in
dark colors than light ones.
Wet fabrics will crock more easily than dry ones because the
moisture present assists in removing the dye.
TEST METHODLOGY:
APPARATUS: crock meter
White bleached fabric
TEST PROCEDURE:
The arm is rotated back & forth causing the white crock test cloth
to rub against the specimen.
The cloth is removed and evaluated on a scale of 5 to 1.(class
5:negligible or no crocking; class 1 : large amount of crocking).
The device used is crock meter

METHODOLOGY:
The garment is fixed in the crock meter and a 10*10cm square
white fabric is fixed on the other side of the crock meter and is
run for 20 cycles. This test is conducted for both dry and wet
fabric in order to realise the colourfastness of the yarn dyed
fabric.

FABRIC TESTING REPORT

21

ORIGINAL WHITE FABRIC DRY TEST FABRIC

WET TEST FABRIC

TENSILE STRENGTH TESTING:

Test to determine the breaking strength and elongation of the
most textile fabrics.
Mainly used for woven fabric because the tests are unidirectional
and woven fabrics have unidirectional yarns.
Factors that produce a strong fabric include fiber content, yarn
size and type, weave, and yarns per inch.
FABRIC TESTING REPORT

22

SAMPLE PREPERATION:
5 samples for warp direction.
5 samples for weft direction.
Sample size: 2.5cm*30cm
TEST :
Sample is clamped in the jaws.
CRE 500mm of extension per loading.
Gauge length is 20cm.
TEST RESULT:
Mean breaking force.
Mean elongation at break.

GARMENT FABRIC:
WARP
ELONGATION:
PEAK:

SOURCED FABRIC

21
25.1

WARP

ELONGATION:

23

PEAK:

26.4

FABRIC TESTING REPORT

WEFT
27.8
34

WEFT
23.2
25.8

23

FABRIC TESTING REPORT

24