Ljubljana, Slovenia: what to see plus the best

hotels, bars and restaurants

Slovenias and now Europes green capital is a laid-back charmer of a city. Easily walkable, it boasts
striking architecture and a vibrant outdoor eating and drinking culture
Norm Longley
Saturday 2 April 2016 02.00EDT

s capital of one of Europes most forested countries, its perhaps tting that Ljubljana is
this years European Green Capital. A city of just 300,000 inhabitants, Ljubljana has
often been ahead of the game when it comes to green initiatives from the
introduction of a sophisticated waste management system (Ljubljana was the rst EU
capital to adopt a zero-waste programme) and the creation of new green spaces from
degraded urban land, to electrically powered golf buggy-type vehicles (kavalirs) oering
free transport around the old town, which is otherwise closed to trac. Ocial Green
Capital celebrations kicked o last month, but there are numerous events taking place
throughout the year.
The city oozes charm, a delightful confection of Baroque and Habsburg inspiredarchitecture, richly painted churches, abundant greenery and engaging riverside cafes.
Moreover, its location, at the heart of this tiny, but astonishingly diverse country, means its
no more than a couple of hours away from anywhere, be it the imperious limestone
mountains and glacial lakes of the Julian Alps, the magical subterranean world of the Karst
region, historic coastal towns or the lush vineyards in its hinterland.

WHATTODOANDSEE
The old town
Ljubljanas most obvious point of reference is its gorgeous old town, buered on one side by
a neat castle-topped hill and on the other by the languorous Ljubljanica river, its willowfringed banks sprinkled with easy-going restaurants, cafes and bars. It is an attractive lattice
of cobbled streets, arched alleys and ne cultural monuments, many of which were
bequeathed to the city by Joe Plenik (18721957), Slovenias most celebrated urban
planner. From the brilliantly conceived and much-photographed Triple bridge (he
contributed the two angled footbridges in the 1930s), to the graceful market colonnade, the
city is run through with his unique designs. Two-hour Plenik tours can be arranged
through the tourist oce (50 for a group of up to ve people or 60 for up to 10), which
also operates other excellent themed tours.
Otherwise, the best and most original of the citys many guiding companies is CurioCity,

whose tours include From Ljubljana With Love, which takes visitors to local social
enterprises including restaurants and shops, and Lazy Sundays, which includes a park
stroll, brunch, coee and beer pitstops, but otherwise does not very much at all in the best
possible sense.
Ljubljana Castle
Lording it over the huddle of orange- and red-roofed townhouses below is the 16th-century
Ljubljana Castle, whose grounds have been given over to a cluster of rst-rate museums:
Virtual Castle, a clever 3D multi-visual illustrating the castles development; an engrossing
exhibition on Slovene history, with particularly illuminating sections on socialist Yugoslavia
through to the Ten-Day War (or Slovenian Independence War) in 1991; and the sweet
Museum of Puppetry, a long-cherished art form in Slovenia. The stocky Clock Tower,
meanwhile, aords peerless views of the old town, and, in the distance, the serrated, snowdusted Kamnike Alps. If you dont fancy the sti 15-minute climb to the top, a funicular
goes right into the heart of the complex.
Tickets 7.50 adult, 5.20 child, 19 family, or 10/7/26 including the funicular,
ljubljanskigrad.si
Krakovo and Trnovo
Ljubljana is replete with genteel, village-like suburbs, but few are as appealing as Krakovo,
within a 10-minute walk of the old town. An erstwhile haunt of Slovenian artists, today
Krakovo is characterised by thickset medieval houses and neatly tended allotments, the
produce of which sustains the huge open-air market on Vodnikov trg (Vodnik Square) as
well as numerous city restaurants. In neighbouring Trnovo, there are more examples of
Pleniks work, notably Trnovo bridge, on one side of which is the architects surprisingly
modest house (6, guided tours only, on the hour, 10am-5pm, mgml.si). Most of it has been
left as it was, notably his studio, complete with equipment, books and plans.
Sundays
On Sunday mornings, the banks of the Ljubljanica are taken over by a terric little ea
market, selling everything from antique sofas and vintage stamps to ex-Yugoslav military
uniforms. While outdoorsy types love nothing better than hiking up 669m marna Gora,
ve miles north of the city. At the top, you can grab a warming cup of tea.
Eipprova ulica
This convivial canalside street is Ljubljanas main entertainment hub and boasts a colourful
ensemble of cafes and pubs.

WHERETOEAT
Odprtakuhna
Spring sees the reopening of the citys ever-popular Odprto Kuhna (Open Kitchen) on
picturesque Pogaarjev trg, which is bound on one side by Pleniks elegant market
colonnade, itself a great spot to pick up picnicky snacks. Every Friday, hungry punters ock
to this buzzing open-air food market, where some of the citys very best establishments
(including Strelec and Gostilna AS) serve sample (and cheap) portions of their restaurant

dishes. There are also stalls selling many cuisines that you might not otherwise nd in the
city. A phalanx of beer and wine stalls adds to the convivial atmosphere.
Pogaarjev trg, odprtakuhna.si
Gostilna Dela
The idea behind this warm, bustling little daytime restaurant is to help those from
disadvantaged groups assimilate into mainstream society, in a similar vein to Jamie Olivers
Fifteen. The daily menu is short, typically consisting of one soup, one meat (roast veal with
carrot mash, say) and one sh dish (maybe sea bream on barley risotto), and a dessert, but
that matters little when the food tastes this good; each dish goes for around 7 a pop.
Poljanska cesta 7, +386 599 25446, on Facebook
Strelec
Dining out in Ljubljana doesnt get much more exciting than at this rened establishment,
secreted in the castles Archers Tower. Climbing the elegant spiral staircase, you emerge
into an artfully designed room whose rust-red stone walls are painted with scenes of
medieval battle. Chef Igor Jagodic a rising star in Slovenian gastronomic circles conjures
up beautifully crafted and technically accomplished dishes such as veal tongue with
smoked eel and horseradish mayonnaise, and buckwheat croquettes stued with duck liver,
black walnuts and r tree foam. The space is perfect for assignations of a romantic nature.
30 for a three-course lunch, Grajska planota 1, +386 31 687 648, kaval-group.si
Pri kofu
A comely neighbourhood restaurant in Krakovo, Pri kofu has been quietly going about its
business for years. Fabulous home-style cooking is the order of the day, most of which is
prepared using hand-picked produce from the nearby allotments. Visitors choose from
whatevers chalked up on the board, which might be pork tenderloin in a g sauce, or a
black true risotto (10), then take a seat inside the unadorned but snug interior, or outside
on the sunny pavement terrace.
Rena ulica 17, +386 1 426 4508, on Facebook

WHERETODRINK
Dvorni Bar
Slovenian wine is little known outside the country but it is outstanding, and this seasoned
wine bar down by the Ljubljanica is just the place to begin your education. Start with a drop
of Rebula, a sumptuous dry white from the picturesque Gorika Brda region abutting the
Italian border, before moving on to a glass of full-bodied, blood-red Teran from the Karst
best sampled with a plate or two of tapas (3-5 a glass). When youre done here, pop next
door to the excellent shop and stock up on a bottle or two to impress friends back home.
Dvorni trg 2, dvornibar.net
Metelkova City
Once a Yugoslav army barracks, Metelkova was squatted in 1993 and is now a rag-bag of
alternative venues in the centre of Ljubljana. The autonomous social centre and legendary

night spot features all kinds of live music: everything from jazz and rockabilly to dub and
techno.
metelkovamesto.org
Ziferblat
The good folk at Ziferblat do things somewhat dierently. Put simply, the longer you stay,
the more you pay (0.5c per minute, or 3 per hour; a daily ticket is capped at 7), for which
you get unlimited beverages (alas no alcohol) and cookies, and general all-round use of the
facilities, including the kitchen. Indeed, guests are encouraged to use the cafes not
inconsiderable space amply lled with recycled and vintage furnishings as they wish, be
it to read, paint or play an instrument. Theres even a hammock if you fancy a kip.
Vegova ulica 8, ljubljana.ziferblat.net
Union Pivnica
Occupying the cavernous former workers canteen of the Union brewery (one of Slovenias
two major breweries; the other is Lako), this rocking venue showcases the very best in both
warehouse chic design and Slovenian beer. On oer is a prodigious array of pale, dark and
amber ales, including numerous unltered versions (from 2.50-4). Naturally, the beer has
to be soaked up somehow, so grab a plate of grilled beer sausages while youre at it.
Celovka cesta 22, pivnica-union.si
Caf okl
Named after its personable owner, this cosy, happily careworn cafe is the place for caeine
connoisseurs. Fairtrade coee beans are sourced from single estates, which are then roasted
by Tine himself, with each one chalked up on a board indicating the date the beans were
picked and when they were roasted. On a warm day, park yourself outside on the sociable
little terrace and treat yourself to a cup of deliciously refreshing cold-pressed coee.
Krekov trg 8, cafecokl.si

WHERETOSTAY
Cubo
The citys slickest hotel is housed in a stunningly refurbished, white 1930s residential
building, and the 26 bedrooms are decorated in discerning shades of grey, complete with all
mod cons and abstract art on the walls, alongside glassed-in bathrooms featuring enormous
walk-in showers and LOccitane toiletries. Around half the rooms have unencumbered
views of the castle. Its impeccably serviced too.
Doubles from 115 B&B, +386 1 425 6000, hotelcubo.com
Slami
B&Bs are few and far between in Ljubljana, so this is a most welcome nd. The understated
rooms come in two categories: those in the main building boast high ceilings with panelled
walls and waxed wooden oors; another six, more contemporary rooms are just across the
way. Breakfast is taken in the quaint in-house cafe worth a visit even if youre not staying
here or on the rooftop terrace in warmer weather.

Doubles from 95, +386 1 433 8233, slamic.si

Adora
In a sleepy little corner of the old town, this exquisite, family-run hotel a ne conversion
of a bourgeois townhouse conceals 10 rooms of considerable charm and style: parquet
ooring, polished teak furnishings including fabulously chunky bedsteads, and brass-tted
taps and showers alongside some thoughtful touches like 1930s-style telephones and sidelamps, and framed watercolours of old Ljubljana. The pocket-sized courtyard, with its trim
lawn, is the perfect spot for a sundowner.
Twins/doubles 115 B&B, +386 82 057 241, adorahotel.si
Tresor Hostel
Its not often you get the chance to sleep in a bank, but this buzzy hostel gives you the
opportunity to do just that. A stones throw from the Triple bridge, it is set around a high,
central atrium, with spacious, spotlessly clean dorms each sporting the name of a currency
sleeping between four and 12 people. Many of the banks original xtures and ttings,
such as the lockers, have been cleverly incorporated as design features, while the old vaults
now function as a common area and kitchen. And theres a pint-sized bar for a cheeky
nightcap.
Dorm beds from 13.30, breakfast from 2, opova 38, 386 1 200 9060, hostel-tresor.si
Several airlines, including Adria, easyJet and Wizz Air y direct from several London airports
to Ljubljana
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