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BIrice Cycle

tenance and bike set-up

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by CTC
Searle & Dan Joyce
& Ben searle Photos: Ben
Words: Chris Juden

PRE-RIDE CHECKLIST
CLEANING AND
LUBRICATING
CHANGING AN
INNERTUBE
FIXING A PUNCTURE
REMOVING &
REPLACING A WHEEL
ADJUSTING BRAKES
AND GEARS
PREVENTING
PROBLEMS
WHERE TO
LEARN MORE

BASIC BIKE MAINTENANCE

t is important that your bike is

always in good working order.
If you start at the front wheel,
following a letter M shape, move
up to the handlebars, down to the
chainset, back up to the saddle,
and down to the rear wheel and
gears, youll not miss anything.
This sort of check is
recommended by National
Standards for Cycle Training: its a
quick but thorough assessment of
the whole bike for damage, wear
and security. Even a new bicycle
should be checked.
The following symbols indicate
what you should do if you find
a fault:

THE NATIONAL
STANDARD?
The National Standard for
Cycle Training has been
developed by all the bodies
involved in cycle training and is
supported by the Government,
cycling and road safety
organisations. CTC runs the
schemes Training Helpline.
National Standard trains
cyclists to be competent and
confident using their bikes for
all sorts of journeys. Part of
the three-level course includes
basic bike maintenance.

PRE-RIDE BIKE CHECK

@ Simply tighten, lubricate,
pump up or adjust as
appropriate.
See later in this guide.
b Consult a manual or a
professional repairer.
Front wheel & brake
Check the tyre: it should feel hard
@. Then look for damage or wear
as you slowly turn then spin the
wheel, to check it runs true. While
you have it off the ground, thump
down hard on the top of the wheel
to check it doesnt fall out of the
forks @.
Make sure the axle nuts or
quick release are tight @, then
pull the rim side to side to test
for loose hub bearings b. While
youre looking at the rim, check
the brake blocks dont miss it,
cant move relative to the brake
, and that the cable is not frayed
either here or where it enters the
lever b.
Handlebars
Squeeze the front brake lever hard
and look inside to check the brake
cable. Push the bike forward;
the back wheel should lift off the
ground . Rock the bike back and
forth.
Any free movement probably
means a loose headset b. Now
do the same with the rear brake
lever: squeeze, cable-check and
push: the back wheel should
32

cycle OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2005

lock and slide. Neither brake

lever should touch the bars .
Ensure that both levers are secure
and that the handlebar ends are
covered by grips or plugs @.
Then face the bike, grip the
front wheel between your knees
and check the handlebars dont
twist sideways or rotate in the
stem @. Check that the stem has
not been raised above its height
limit mark.

The National
Standards for
Cycle Training
M-check
assesses
the bike for
damage, wear,
and security

Frame
Inspect your frame, particularly
just behind head tube. Wrinkled
paint or bent tubes indicate the
bike has been in an accident and
the frame should be replaced b.
If you have suspension, check
that it is correctly adjusted to your
weight and that there is no excess
play between moving parts b.
Transmission
Grab the cranks and check for
any sideways looseness b. Make
sure your pedals
are secure in the
cranks and they
are not bent or
damaged b.
Youll want
something (or
someone) to lift the
back wheel off the
ground so you can
turn the pedals.
Do that whilst

shifting all the way up and down

a couple of times, front and rear.
Check that every click delivers the
next gear and the chain doesnt
overshoot at either end . Be sure
the chain runs smoothly with no
stiff links .
With internal hub gears, also
check that the pedals cannot
slip forwards in any gear b and
that the chain is not too loose.
Play should not exceed 2cm at its
midpoint this also applies for
single-speed bikes b.
Saddle
Ensure the saddle isnt loose
by twisting and rocking it @.
The saddle top should be near
horizontal and the seatpost must
never be raised above the limit
mark.

Squeeze the front

brake and rock
the bike back and
forward

Rear wheel & brake

Lift the bike by the saddle to
check the rear wheel just like the
front. Put it down and check the
rim, hub and brake the same way
too.
Accessories
As you check the bike, ensure
that any accessories such as
mudguards, locks, bottles, pumps,
carriers and luggage etc. are all
securely fitted @ and in the case
of lights and reflectors: working b
and clean .

BASIC BIKE MAINTENANCE

WASH AND GO
Most of the products mentioned
throughout this guide are available
from CTC Shop where members
get 10% off. Tel: 0870 873 0069 or
buy online: www.ctcshop.com
BARBIERI
CHAIN
CLEANER
SET 14.99
Clean your chain on the bike
without mess. Contact: 01727
798345, www.fisheroutdoor.co.uk

CLEAN
& LUBE
A

part from looking better, a

clean bike is more reliable.
Go through this routine at
least once a month, or after any
dirty ride, and itll be a lot easier
to spot and remedy any faults
before they become expensive
problems.

PREPARATION
Collect in a bucket some old
sponges and brushes (tooth-,
bottle-, scrubbing- ) or buy a set
designed for the job.
A workstand to lift the back
wheel is convenient. Or just lean
the bike against a wall. Dont turn
it upside down, however, or water
may enter the headset and other
bearings.
CLEANING
A car jet wash will blast water
into bike bearings even sealed
ones. A bucket of warm water
plus washing-up liquid or car
shampoo works pretty well, but
the following method is better
still.
Spray the cycle with a
biodegradable cleaner, loosening
hardened mud with your brushes.
Use a water soluble degreaser on
stubborn oily grime, including the
chain.
Special brushes and scrapers
are available to get between
sprockets, and there are devices to

contain the mess whilst cleaning

the chain, but screwdrivers and
strips of cloth will do.
Finally rinse down with cold
water. A garden hose can be
used with care, e.g. with a brush
attachment.
Let the bike dry. Bike polishes
help dispel water and give your
bike a bright finish thats easier to
clean next time.
LUBING
Spray the chain with a water
dispersant (e.g. WD40) then relubricate when dry. Clean PTFE
(Teflon) lubricants are good for
fair-weather cycling, but only a
clingy oil will stand the wet or
mountain biking.
Turn the pedals backwards
whilst spraying or dribbling
lubricant onto the middle (rollers)
of the chain as it leaves the rear
mech.
Lubricate gear and brake pivot
points, and where cables enter
housings. Keep lubricants away
from tyres, rims and discs.

Its easier
to spot and
fix any faults
on a clean
bike before
they become
expensive
problems

FINISH LINE
TEFLON-PLUS
DRY LUBE 4.99
(4oz)
A clean dry lube for
chains and all pivot
points. For very
wet conditions and
muddy mountain
biking, use Finish Lines Cross
Country lube (same price). Contact:
Madison 0208 385 3385, www.
ultimatepursuits.co.uk
MUC-OFF BIKE
CLEANER 6.49
Economical
and effective
bike cleaner
safe for all cycle
components.
Contact: 01202
307790, www.muc-off.com
MUC-OFF BIKE
SPRAY 5.99
Use on components
and frame to drive
out water and
leave a water- and
dirt- repellant
surface. Contact:
as above

Free stiff chain links

by bending chain or
use a chain link tool

MINOURA
DS500 FOLDING STAND
16.99
Lifts the back
wheel off the
ground. Good
for cleaning
and gear adjustments. Contact:
01845 521700, www.zyro.co.uk

OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2005 cycle

33

BASIC BIKE MAINTENANCE

CHANGING
AN INNERTUBE
I

ts quicker simply to swap the

tube than to patch a puncture
at the roadside perhaps in
the rain so always carry a spare.
Once youve got the wheel off ,
follow these steps.

To help remember which way

around the tube was, attach a
pump from the side away from
the wheel. Pump up the tube until
you hear hissing or until the tube
is twice as fat.

FIND THE CAUSE

Never fix a puncture without
finding and removing whatever
made it. First quickly inspect the
outside of the tyre for thorns or
glass, hissing if not completely
flat, or bubbles if wet. If you find
anything, count how many spokes
it is from the valve, forwards or
backwards. Repeated punctures
mean somethings still stuck in
the tyre!

FIND THE HOLE

Tip: hold the tube near your lips,
feel the air and dab the hole with
your tongue. Then make a big
cross with a ballpoint pen one
line along the tube, the other all
around it. (Dipping the tube in
water to look for bubbles is a last
resort).
Align the tube with the tyre,
valve by hole in rim. Closely
examine the tyre adjacent to that
mark, feeling for sharp things
inside and looking for cuts or
embedded objects outside.
If you find nothing, widen the
search a tyre can shift when
its flat or maybe you flipped the
tube. Finally, even if you found
that one, feel all round for any
further puncture-makers.
Sometimes the cause of
a puncture is so obvious its
quickest to find the hole in the
tube by reference to that, rather
than vice-versa. Mark it, then fit
your spare.

REMOVING A TUBE
Remove the valve cap, completely
deflate the tube and unscrew any
ring before pushing the valve up
into the tyre, to free it.
Insert a tyre lever under the tyre
bead (its edging), pull up and over
the rim edge then hook this lever
behind a spoke. Insert another
about 15cm (6in) away and slide
it around the rim, lifting the tyre
bead completely off one side.
Pull the tube out and lay it
down as it came out of the tyre.

34

cycle OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2005

Left: Secure one

tyre lever and slide
the other
Right: Use your
thumbs, not tyre
levers, to get the
last section of
tyre on

Find the
cause of the
puncture,
address
that, then fit
your spare
innertube

CHECK THE RIM

If the hole appears to be on the
rim-facing surface of the tube:
ensure the rim tape is central
in the rim and able to prevent
punctures from spoke heads
and holes. Check for protruding
spokes etc.
FITTING A TUBE
If you took the tyre off, fit one side
back onto the rim. Inflate the tube
just enough to give it shape, then
remove pump, fit valve to rim and
push tube inside tyre.
FITTING THE TYRE
Starting opposite the valve, use
your fingers and/or thumbs to fit
the second tyre bead. Stop when
you get to the final tight part and
go back over the length already
fitted, pushing it deeper into the
middle of the rim and if necessary
deflating the tube, to make some
slack. Fit a bit, push down again
and so on, working back and forth
to slacken that tight section and
make it short enough to roll over
with one hand, whilst the other
hand pushes up the valve.
Check that the tube and valve
base are not caught under the
tyre bead; inflate a little and free
if necessary. (Its easier to avoid
trapping the valve if you start
there, but then you cant make as
much slack so thatll do only for
easily fitted tyres.)
Inflate to about 1.5 bar (20psi)
and spin the wheel. If the tyre
wobbles, push and pull it straight.
Inflate to the recommended
pressure and check the bead
again. Replace the valve cap.

BASIC BIKE MAINTENANCE

FIXING A
PUNCTURE
F

ind and mark the hole as

described above, with a
cross at least three times
bigger than the patch. The
smallest patches are fine for thorn
and pin holes, bigger for glass and
flint cuts. Cuts longer than about
3mm (1/8in) will grow under the
patch. Mend them if you must,
but discard the tube as soon as
you can. Self-adhesive (glueless)
patches are also temporary.
Apart from those exceptions, a
well-patched tube can be just as
reliable as a new one.
APPLY SOLUTION
With the tube inflated or stretched
over something (e.g. saddle nose)
thoroughly sand it to remove any
moulding marks and make the
tube a darker matt black over an
area twice the size of the patch.
Keep the arms of your cross still
visible. Let out all the air and
spread ONE thin film of solution
over the target area with a clean,
dry finger in one or two quick
movements. Let it dry. Really dry.
Its easy to put on too much and
be too hasty. Be patient and never
re-touch the centre of the target
area or blow on it your breath is
damp.

Apply one
thin layer of
solution. Let it
dry. Really dry.
Be patient. Its
easy to put on
too much or
be too hasty

Note: most patches now come

with a vulcanising solution that
works better on modern butyl
tubes than old-style rubber
solution. But dont mix up the
solutions and patches!
APPLY PATCH
Peel off the backing (usually
metal foil) and centre the patch
on the target. Press it down
firmly, working from the centre
outwards. Pinch the tube and
patch to crack the cellophane (or
paper) topping and peel that off
from the centre outwards.
If the repair is good the patch
will stretch with the tube. If not,
thatll be because you didnt
clean the tube enough, didnt let
the solution dry properly or put
it on too thick, so it was still wet
underneath. A second go with the
failed patch can work surprisingly
well. Peel it off, put a thin solution
on both patch and tube and wait
longer and re-apply! But if that
seems too mean, you can start all
over again with a new one.
Dust around the repair (with
any old dust that comes to hand)
to de-sticky any unpatched
solution, re-fit and pump up to
full pressure.

WHAT TO TAKE
WITH YOU
Take a spare tube, tyres levers,
patch kit, pump and a mini-tool on
every ride.
REMA TIP
TOP PATCH
KIT TT05
3.95
Hard to find
but the best. This version comes
with tyre levers. Contact:
www.wiggle.co.uk
TOPEAK
HEXUS
(HUMMER) 16
17.99
Allen keys,
screwdrivers,
good chain tool, spoke keys and
more Contact: 01933 672170,
www.extrauk.co.uk
TOPEAK EINSTEIN
II, 24.99
Quality mini-pump,
2-stage pressure
selector works up
to 160psi. Contact:
01933 672170,
www.extrauk.co.uk

Thoroughly sand
the target area until
its a darker matt
black

MINOURA
HANDY EXCEL
11, 12.99
Top-notch allen
key set with
fold-out socket
driver and sockets for crank bolts.
Contact: 01845 521700,
www.zyro.co.uk
VAR TYRE LEVER,
6.99
Also designed to safely
fit tyres, even very tight
ones. Contact: www.
bikeplus.co.uk
MICHELIN AIRSTOP
INNER TUBE, 3.99
More reliable and
easily patched than
most. Check valve
and size. Contact:
0178 240 1853,
www.michelin.co.uk

October/November 2005 cycle

35

BASIC BIKE MAINTENANCE

WHEEL FITTING
To fit a wheel, first fully open the
quick-release. If you are not sure
of this, operate the lever back and
forth and watch its base move in
and out. The lever may indicate
its open and closed states. Usually
both front and rear levers are on
the left side of the bike.
REAR WHEEL FITTING
Pull back the rear derailleur fully
so that you can lift the top part
of the chain over the smallest
cog and let the bottom part hang
below.
With the derailleur pulled
back, pull the wheel fully into the
dropouts. If the wheel does not
centre automatically in the frame,
seek further advice b.
Keeping it there, close the
quick-release fully where its
closure isnt limited by another
part of the bike. This should feel
firm but not require excessive
force.
If you need to adjust the
amount of force, open the lever,
then tighten or loosen the knurled
nut on the opposite side to
increase or decrease it.

REMOVING AND
FITTING WHEELS

36

cycle october/november 2005

REAR WHEEL REMOVAL

Shift the chain to the smallest
front and rear sprockets. Pull the
hubs quick-release lever back 180
degrees to open fully.
Lift the bike, pull the chain and
rear derailleur back, and let the
wheel drop out. A small thump on
the tyre may be necessary to make
the wheel fall.
FRONT WHEEL REMOVAL
Remove the front wheel in a
similar manner to the rear. If
your frame has safety lips on
the dropouts, the wheel will not
simply drop out.
First, youll need to open
the quick-release fully. Then
loosen off the knurled nut on the
opposite side a few turns to clear
the lips.

Right: courtesy of Matt Hodges

emoving and fitting your

bikes wheels is one of
the most essential skills
youll learn. Its needed to repair
punctures in a sensible fashion
(you cant get the whole innertube
past the fork otherwise), to
replace worn tyres, to pack the
bike for carriage, and so on.
Removing a derailleur geared
wheel is straightforward. A hub
gear might not be . If you have
nutted wheels, use a correctly
fitting spanner thats at least
18cm (7in) longer if you are not
very strong to obtain sufficient
leverage.
Before you start it will help to
first open up the brakes quickrelease to avoid the tyre snagging
against the brake blocks see
opposite .

FRONT WHEEL FITTING

The front wheel is the same,
without the complication of the
chain or the gears. If you had to
unscrew the knurled nut so that
the wheel could drop out past
safety lips, then once the wheel
is in place you will need to tighten
this again before closing the lever.

BASIC BIKE MAINTENANCE

HOME TOOLKIT
ESSENTIALS
Buy tools to take with you first, then
expand upon these as necessary.
TOPEAK JOE
BLOW MAX II,
19.99
Good value floor
pump with pressure
gauge fits all
valves. Contact:
01933 672170,
www.extrauk.co.uk

BRAKES&GEARS
B

oth are operated by cables,

which often require
tightening. Do this by
unscrewing an adjuster (pictured),
or else you must loosen the cable
clamp, pull some cable through
and re-clamp it.
BRAKE ADJUSTMENTS
When working on a rim brake or
removing a wheel it is often useful
to release it so that the brake blocks
open out wider. Racing brakes
often have a release lever where the
cable attaches, or the brake lever
may have catch that lets it open
further. On V-brakes the noodle
tube can be pulled out of its yoke
and on cantilever brakes its usually
possible to unhook the straddle
cable from one brake arm.
Check brake block alignment
with the rim. They should hit the
rim squarely with no part of the
block missing the rim or touching
the tyre. Some brake shoes have an
open end for block replacement,
which must face backwards. Brakes
often work better if the front of
each block touches the rim 0.51mm before its rear.
Pull hard on the brake lever
several times to bed the cable and
if necessary use an adjuster (on
lever, brake, or elsewhere) to bring
the brake blocks closer to the rim.
If the adjuster is at its maximum,
screw it back in and tighten the
cable at its clamp. Test the brake

again. Some brakes have balancing

screws at the sides: screw inwards
to stop that side rubbing.
DERAILLEUR GEAR
ADJUSTMENTS
When an indexed gear cable
stretches, shifts become sluggish in
the direction pulled by the cable.
So tighten it with the adjuster(s) on
the mechanism, frame or shifter. If
shifting then becomes reluctant in
the other (return spring) direction,
screw the adjuster back in a bit.
Gears may even become one
whole click out of synch. Starting
with the shifter (lever, twistgrip etc.) in top or bottom gear,
whichever produces a slack cable,
give it one click and make sure
that this delivers the next gear.
If instead it takes another click
before anything useful happens,
you need to tighten the cable
quite a lot: probably at the clamp,
after screwing in the adjusters as
described above for brakes.
If prompt shifts in one direction
cant be had without sluggish shifts
the other way, you have sticky
cables. Lubricate them or replace
the outer casings.
If the chain overshoots or
simply will not engage the top or
bottom gear, front or rear, you
need to tighten (overshoots) or
loosen (wont go) the High or Low
limit screw on the relevant gear
mechanism.

Above left: On V or
cantilever brakes,
hold brake blocks
in and un-hook the
brake cable
Above right: Adjust
the cable first then
the limit screws if
necessary
Left page, top: Lift
the bike, pull the
chain and rear
derailleur back
and let the wheel
drop out

CYCLUS CRANK
EXTRACTOR,
from 7.50
Removes cranks
from bottom
bracket spindles
check type
required. Contact:
www.wiggle.co.uk
SHIMANO
SIS CABLE
CUTTERS,
29.99
Cuts all cycle
cables and outer casing difficult to
manage without. Contact: Madison
0208 385 3385,
www.ultimatepursuits.co.uk
PARK MINI
CHAIN BRUTE,
15.95
Top quality, to
remove and install
any derailleur
chain, and remove stiff links.
Contact: Madison 0208 385 3385,
www.ultimatepursuits.co.uk

Some
brakes have
balancing
screws at the
sides: screw
inwards to
stop that side
rubbing

BONDHUS PRO HEX

KEY SET, 17.99
Durable allen keys provide
leverage, ball-ends reach
awkward corners. Contact:
01223 213800,
www.ison-distribution.com
CYCLUS
CHAIN WEAR
INDICATOR,
11.99
Lets you know whether to clean
your chain or replace it! Contact:
www.wiggle.co.uk

october/november 2005 cycle

37

BASIC BIKE MAINTENANCE

preventing problems
Bicycling Illustrated Bicycle
Maintenance, 15.99 Todd
Downs, Rodale, ISBN 1-40508788-9. Very detailed fully
comprehensive US classic. UK
edition just published. Revised
2005.
Bicycle Maintenance, 14.99
Ben Searle, The Crowood Press,
ISBN 1-86126-084-9. Includes
detail for older bikes and tourers,
and building wheels. Pub. 1997.

eing a good bike mechanic

is not about the skill to
rebuild your bike at the
road side. Its about maintaining
your bike so you dont have to!
Maintenance is best applied little
and often. Act as soon as you
hear an odd noise, feel a slight
knocking, or notice your brake
feeling spongy. As you become
more experienced youll recognise
potential problems sooner.
In addition, the cycle should
have an annual overhaul more
often if used heavily off-road
when everything is cleaned and
checked, worn parts are replaced,
and all bearings lubricated as
appropriate.
The single most important
thing you can do is to keep
your tyres fully inflated. Underinflation causes poor handling,
tyre wear, and increases the
chance of rim damage and
punctures. Cycling also requires

much more effort! Punctures are

the most common breakdown,
and difficult to avoid completely.
If you really hate punctures, use
tyres with puncture-prevention
features or even fit Slime-filled
tubes (www.slime.com).
Lastly, after a day in the rain
and especially in winter, wipe the
chain dry and spray with WD40 or
a PTFE spray. Otherwise youll get
rust and stiff links.
LEARNING MORE
You dont need to know
everything just where to
go next
BOOKS
The Bike Book, 4th
Edition, 14.99 Fred
Milson, Haynes, ISBN
1-84425-000-8. Beginner
friendly best-seller, full
colour and very clear.
Revised 2003.

WEBSITES
Product technical information
Shimano: http://cycle.shimanoeu.com/ Go to Products then
component of choice.
Campagnolo: www.campagnolo.
com/home.php
SRAM: www.sram24.com/
newtechdoc/english/dealers/
index.html
Sturmey-Archer: www.sturmeyarcher.com
General cycle maintenance
www.sheldonbrown.com/repair/
index.html A vast resource on all
things cycling.
http://en.wikibooks.org/wiki/
Bicycle_repair The user-editable
encyclopedia.
CLASSES, COURSES AND
QUALIFICATIONS
There is nothing like first hand
experience to help you learn.
Local bike shops, cycling clubs
or your local authority may have
courses or experts available to
help you learn.
See the Training section
on the CTC website www.
ctc.org.uk/cycletraining
for more information on
National Standards and links
to bike maintenance courses.
Alternatively, call the Training
Helpline, tel: 0870 607 0415.

GET MORE FROM CTC

CTC is the UKs national cyclists organisation. CTC offers
a comprehensive and specialised service for the leisure and
commuting cyclist. We provide technical advice, information, a
magazine, cycling related legal aid, insurance, organised tours,
specialist mail order, and thousands of cycling events annually.
CTC is at the forefront in campaigning to improve the UK
cycling environment.
CTC membership costs from just 12 per year. Find out more
38

cycle october/november
OCTOBER/NOVEMBER 2005

at www.ctc.org.uk. Join online or phone CTC Membership on

0870 873 0061. CTC members can obtain extra copies of this
supplement. For details, tel: 0870 873 0060.
This supplement first appeared in Cycle magazine, Oct/Nov 2005.
It was published by James Pembroke Publishing, on behalf of CTC.
Supplement run-ons were printed by St Ives (Plymouth) Ltd. It is
copyright CTC, James Pembroke Publishing and individual contributors.
Reproduction in whole or in part without permission is prohibited.