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le iou tur, cinq fnis eeutenalre ..

, r ses ~raj[l caracterisdques 1~ eosrume na:liomru - I. ' st d~,origin,-:: :slave. L ln1luence des peuples, vee tesq I ids les bulgares O'nt d'~e en ccnract, de 'Meme 1 u eelle de la culture me.ditcrwant!ennc" .s'y font pan LCLi[i rement st:!D'fr., _'00, Ilout en emp:rurrtant

UK peuples '"tr3ngcrn, pendant ~es dift"ete:nittes ~poqu les molifs de ~~l1ri ~ "'te,ments, leg, ulgares l:riiUient Ce5 motifs· d'une r~"Il tout-i-fait indepcmld3.lJt~ on 'J}~JeJl en 1 .a aptan't aux 00 di~DIl:i de ,- I,V~ a u milieu ge'OgTaphlq ue, ~ la prodluclion, eoonomiq lLlle 1 l'ord socffia]i! q j leur e alCFilil pr'O[pt.es:~

Par ui I des' ch.angf rnents considier.a bles, . ['V1 'nus d nns leg domaio,cs soclale et 4cono'lUique de 131 v.i~' d u u e bulpli ap[\es la Libdration; pal suite RUssi des ~rand"'Crmilj'tioru profondes dans sa 'm~rue.re de

i - j,csuhat de ]]iindustri:llisa:tion de' Ia pro,d Ile, ion J - aombre d~ anciens ooSltl!Jffi'e5, madona ux ont disparu, certains d'enrre eux ont suhl des. modi ... ficati IrS ct quelques autres ant .r!re femp~ac:es P'aJ' de fiOg,,'"CaU1t G:iDSl-um,esl phl~ ap:I)[~iPr~es aux conoeptions,

1.L'( b i I, ~ 'actitvite ee au.~, ex~gences esthcUq:U5

de I neuvclle geniratieD,

L 'cos'u'D:\e,~ ere par les conditi'om re Ues grogrnphiq 1!!r!S ct ,economiques tt im:~lregnes des .m,u,q UGS ~lll1iqllCS~ de'! ~. --n nt une ,expr~dolq ma~~rit':Ue du nil: . III d forces prod,uc:trices et du Cia racture des

ppOli13 de proouctiG<D.la~lS Ie p~eJ a peu-prCI poque dlat 'ant Ia Llberado~ ]orsque, grace aux rnoyens tie prod1!D:ctiofl prinutii:S et a [:211. menetonie e ) - struetur cooDCI,rmque.~ cu~(;t~isam't par 1.3. prod u ctiom agricole ' t par ,~leV'age de b(itaU~, 1.a vile d BLIi!gar bomait pM] cer.cJe ,euo.i t de' la o Imunaute ]u'Lmarcate et ,rnstiq,\lG~ Oil Pon ne se

d isti n I njj que par le ~c:xe" par ~ al:e~ p3!l t"et~t d,e ii, - ~c cml'lJinie) I,w auss~J. part,1.'"'t 't01L1'tes l~ mat IJ [e rncl~~rls'ttques die Qes db:ItID.D,cdo:ns., Au XIX" i ] ~ pOldan- ]a Renai~s nc. bulgare, ~orsq,ue.~. par u· 'e! de ~'Maoc iss em cmt (!' la cim',cwa ~on' monetoo.r~

et oom~ej;ldaIe, oommenc III a e for.m _- dtune mamire evidrutte Ia classe des riche:s ct PWSS::,&IUts notables (j,)tc mrbadji") eelle des artisans . t marchands als et celle des pa ysans; pauvres et o'pprimes." 011 voit a ussi se d~er trois sortes de: CO$tUMe5 d homm ;I den les tr:~lm OD t 0 f but de manif:ester I' a p,artenanee soei al de eelul q w Ie parle ..

Les differ no ans Ie costum, d deux, seses so~~

bien evi den ees ; les bommcs ent des esp~ces d'enveleppes ~\U'" Wes jambes, tM1d._i! q_u"'une serte de jU.pOll P'f.ot~g,e ]2" p'M'tie :[f!I)f&icure dlu corp, feffiiini.a .. L_ varl6tb d"onu1:menl1il !ilOIl\~ gene ale:memt d>el!!rmwm!es par les diff6ret'D:ces. d~age" es .signet c.uao1b&istiqu-'! de l'eta~ de famille d'une riellID.r.rU~' sent (',ou('cntl'l& dans sa ooifti' re et dans, sa ooiB '" Ia tete die la jeune fUme est nue, t:.mdis que celle de. ~3 j,' une-rnariee est: eeuverta, A I'aide des aceessoi es specialr c la eei e de la jwn~mmee prend une fornu: dtaur,t£ole~, de easque, ,de comes, de oo~e ou de Icytrundre~ La Eemme dlevenu,t 'M' 'C es " privee de quelq ues attn buts de sa 1.1"8 emenes, quj ne sont rbc~ Iqu.ila Ia jeune ~pO'u;$e. C ~Ttain.s. det "15 dans 1 I 00 ~ tames MfMO~C-n Ie lieu d~cu;gbte' et la rcllgiom, de '~tu;r PfloPljCUaiOO'"

Leg costlilm,~ nationa.ll'K, SOl.Ut Ui&1C vraie ,o.llression des ' xmgences ,estbetiq u dJu peuple ct d _ scm g~ni,c ereateur .. La femm~ bulg:ue a mon'lre unc:' hfILb~ictc et ~ t.a:[cnt partici!lilier dans le d0.f11a~b de: I'a .1- appHq iUle : dlans; la b~odleie~ le lissage ret d.aos, Ie tressage,

En ];JesuIta! de [i'mfl,uenoo ·re.dpmq:~e des [Of1ll!li1, H,adl.ticu:m,dies e~ des e]eme n 1Cl"~, ww l'ase zndant des eostemes "'traiilgers,. de meme qu' pa - suite des facteurs gcogwa phl qua , I!co~omiques et socl.alJLx~, on vcit em Ihdgarje,. sur un terrkeire r-c~ativemem:t r.~d.ui'_, un grand e "81r~hb' de (:os;tumite5.AbsM'a(:ti~n faite de q]uelques partiCllia, t& SiUU jm,pofitillnc:e. pifJmordw-j' mes eestumes da 'bommes se dhi.tt~ntJ' par ~a cotdeUcr dom:,JIal:i1llte e Ia coupe d-- chausses et dG5 habit:s:I, ,a J,,/belodreehkuvts,yU ,(hommes qui p~.u1ten - des eestumes blanes} ~t JI,tCb. mo.d.fet:hko,1I'tsy'~ (hommcs q~j, pDn ilit des !Costumes nom)j lJ'Idis q1l3le.les: oos't!ume:s, de remm.es~ d~apres 'ma forme du vetemelILt nm au-

...!II 1 _iil..," . ..:1 :'," . " , ).

1 e.sSi1ruS ~e a t.:.Unlur 'j s.e tlli'!r.'ls.ent .: u' e 'em n.t ~

double tabli,erU;; ~:;IsQWkm3Jn"r. (jilD PO"" :s;pf!daJ) et" ~~s2ya\"f, Les, trMb ca.f'attCri~ ;ques dn 'cO$curn.e b1alBC d· hommes :soot,: la roW: u:r bbuche de ~~~GlI j [,'

ehansses ,~no.it)SSl, er les [lab[ Is a ,~haDte:al'UX~ a clltllioUc de ,,~'tldlcn1~ecld:.01it~1~ r. ~l de ];affin~; ~Ue a la (lOU '" !CM nil t~reUe de la lalne, nab. au b]t~ejj 11e fomd. littglc et 1·' pantal,on qui' se retreclt suceessi vementt 1 '~abi.t est court, attcipaJ:ot '~a tMtiUC':~ die coupe dro]'te

L '" teme~t m.inIn ,a, double aablier, qUlil Sf: met n des:SU5 de 13i. cbeH1ls~, cst tm:n,oJ! de deux_a hi" cr5J 1 U:nl, C':I1 a\~ilJII.C at ]~,au, re en aniixe., Le ~ t::;ou.kman,~'i CSlt ~ jiupon, lO!t1lJgj avec. ou sans manehes, £i r,m" a:udevan r, La usaya i' es on", er ,e a u-dJe'tlM't, I c'ngu'(':'ji a vee des. ~amc_h~ lO~glU':$ 0.' eo'--tJ~~ milIi sans mancb.es~ Le nsoukmanu et Ia u:sayal;i oomportc.nt. :a~.lSsj, des blIP ~c 'du devant.

De dU])eren~e5 cdn'ture9~ cciot~jicru, cbapea~ l ftrlJ,ltI'ilJLres :m.Dc~i IlS ICO!.DP') e ten 'I Ie costume de! hommes~ talldisi que dies, moucholrs, des parnres et ~ Icd tares .• b~ellt c lui. des. Ii .;mmcs.,

L· rfJ-· et 10 COl'SaJ cs DouveUcment ere" I ' to~.dlCurs vlves et .~~e:s" ~es centaines esPCCI-S de 1:L.tsw s@nt une preuve c~nq~ente des. pu""ssan{·es rOI,ees [nil~riCd qui se c::udlc]il,t dans notre pie1lWp,te et 'q 1lJi s~~prur rib . n~ e~ nlOde;]esl sp;1 endides de r~t. (;~ de la cul itm ma.tericlle Datioind~

M.AllfA V'ELEVA. ~MNwr dOl M~ .&Jm'D'~ih''i''~' S

22

eaux' :s 'horn-

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h anve dt~ess or BoJg, ria is ODe ,of the most sl - III ficant ~ nd :'mportan~ 'expres&i!O~ of the eultu re of til at cot1Jntry a~dl teflec& ~e Uliil,'" ,.,-racettd life 0 the !~gar.j:an poop,],c .. VirtuaUy the I: llet fJr papular creatlve expressionin he pSiSt r ieular y d rin the five-hundlrd-y-ar !p rio of ki 11 d mlnatlen), national dfi~S ~s indeed one ie mos C Olr'a.c risdc documents of Bu)gar:iacn

HIi:IC.

miLS ~c:n~~l8l feat.rue5,. lu]gar native dr~~ mlOtw:s

• la \' origins bu t traces af1e a PID arent, too" of the in-

'U ce of the I di tcrranean ,and, oth -'r peoples with I om me Bu 1 ars k d. con.~act. Y = tJ in borrowing m ." r II eir COl tum from these .ror·t!'ign_ SQuroe5'J ulgars: have adapted ilium 0 tlh -if plI.Wl'poses in

n altegcther ~nd.epcndent and original mtIJ,fiiiLcr,.

ll\"lth the great chQ~g·.e'S, that teek place ill, the social and oncmie l1fe cf the Ijjji)gars aliter dle nbaatioi11 r t~ ·]f ecu try from the Turkish }f'o "C) 3n .under the fI ence or f4 t" . aching modiAcatio:nsiin I'· e natio! rue r I)Uo~'jn 'the indus iahzatjon or th'i'! CUUI'L-~ economy Ilinny oft c tr~ditkm8W castumes h \ COmpiNdy \~anisbedJ w!hJUc (onte have under .. gone dn3.nges 0'1' ha;tr; been superseded by· others mo c in k p'i:ng' ,,,jt11 '~e coneepts, needs. aad the a '1 e ·c dem~d5 of the people, Thus national dress

reduct of . eographle, eccnenue and e1;;bno-, phic fA. ors, has come the concrete expf!~ion the pc ] i creative pow,ers . lld .f t:b, . character or thei r industrial rdation~,

~ p to the time Qr tll.e LiberaJfioLl, because of the I l::Hlvdy primjrll'~e methods IQf production a;rnd. tffilJe im I agricuh rol,-conomy icf'llJC. 001!llnl~ry, a Bu1gar e t 1· r e within the !arrow cir ~- , f ~is fai'"' mi r and his n 11\ ' community; whr poopl- were

• inguish from one aTIQthcr clli:-'fly hy' sex, ;,g~ and do m . I· C 1St atu wroth simplrc disnnetiens \VCre· alse tflu:m:.d in lben- dress. In the Din toerrUl cent~:I du ri g th eta, of'! ~]ga_riilm renaissance, ares t r sh a_rp I "f d~B.noo social grOU''.3- ~ the · ~~ th 12: ded and industrial magn __ t [the soled "ehor dshi ~~).i me well-tn .. do c:raf.tsmen and

e h~ t-_flJd til' indigeQ,t drscnftanc:hized pea-

. tn,". whose soc ia1 anell reooIloIUirc status was mGD rdlecu~d m the [latio~al dr~ of tbc 'w'G~;rc.r~

oon gl \'-m :;uk d m 1Tc..1i01lCCs. a P'P'ea r in rthe d; ... ess

r l"" < -_ s; a. ,. _d ofpunccs is wo;m by th~, m,~

and peuicoats by the \mme:n .. 'The typ .. of ornaments warn ]S, gene:r~ 1ly dletermi In!OO by the age ,o'f'dJiG W~iUCl"; a w,omaJ]'I!S; ramil,. status is. ,dl:ar,actlSni!JOO ·10, her .headl-, dr ss ~ for insranee, the maiden's head is ueecvered , . hlle the y01mns' rna on WE'an . kerch~ef., In addlrloill~ 3;, penan's dress may show the part or tm country from which he comi~;) 0 IMs occupation.

The wide wriety of natieaal eosnn es tn be u\wui on ·We ,co:m.p.~ul":al~~v,ely small !!territory or Brr[gawla are a true gauge of the aesthetit; stand aim and erea ti~le PCIWCrs of the POOf],e~ w'b,i[e. fue talents and .a1rclsti,(; lm'ventive.ness of lhllgar w,!tune]]. are eloquently malJJif; ted in dl-ir . n:tbroidcr1es~ their e .ving and .. ~ 1 la~makil:r.,

Superficial diffeJ1en(;cs apar~ 'the Ehdgar men IS

ress may be divid· d iut-o. twn ba~[e types~ dis;tingwsoed hty the eo]oW" and (;1JJ!!l'~ of the gal'lnoot: 'the whj re C~ belcd.reshmik' t) a~d tllilJe black (n chemcdreeh I:llk.JJ.} while rh e women's costume - may b ~ (:1 a9Si~ ., ned aecording m the cut of the ourer ganncnt ~ into three types: th - 'I douJb]e..,a;p'~on~'~'~ the "sukmaa" . nd 'tb . ;:isayaj]r~

Typical oi 'the men 3Js lvbite '~m~ume . re tigln-.:fi:tnQg trousers and ,a j,~cltret ,or anguln r eu ~ j, 'the' "chernodreshnib~~ w·eaf pantaloon-like trousers ,of narunrucol J!c-d, black or d.ar-k~b]ue woel loose in h· seat and close-fitting mR he thigm, and calves the jacke whic reaches t, h waist, Is cu· om s aig~t lines,.

The ' deeble-apree" dress of the "N(afn 11 ecnslsrs of t1N:o ,a.prams wcrn. ever a, smeck ~, one f~reme.d. ill rTorn~ and one b(::hind~ Th~ ! !'~~kmanu is a long garme:nrt extendin 1:0 'below dlC knees, wi th or '\vi.tbout sleeves, and fasteufMll .: - foon ;, the i"saya:J , Is open m

fromt and may b slc veless or l~ave ~(n'3.g or dort SIt eves, An aprOQ ma.y also be 'Died over the foof:l.t of beth ~.he "sukmae" and the ! ',say,a!lll •

Belts, s.traps,~, caps and boots cemplete the m4d e ..... 0.· m'''"' ·w~~].I!j ~·L~, aeecsseries of' '\Unm;an~:9 df~, are

il::!.8I',"U _""jr _ _ >;;; 1~1!i... _ . _ .. '" ',.,.,

k r~h1el:s sashes and ornaments.

Many new ·castum·· i:n freSh and lovely colo'UfS out . -'oscly €oUol: 'iD. ::nh n ational tm' dition, M 'weD as t_b number and variety ormgd-c:r~ t X_'~] are proof dlat ~he great cl",eative ~nsti:Ii,Cll1i of' me' Su 19.a,fia~ poople ,are stm ali" -' =md. emifjje~tru.y produc'ti'~,

MARIA 'V EL V,\~

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19', HapYlmrnlaFr ,.slittl!rlm~ Jj,~ofi py5a:u' Hl1:p.:O~HQro YCl,.!la,

:20., B~tun.mKa., M~C ,wi lC~it][ r:a6posoH10:m'lO Yea:Aa

21 Tha.HHruI o6'0pKa, lKleBtKnti. ~H1<r~ TMJ1U:G~C!(\OJ;OI rea A

22. X,PYJ.JiJeBHaR 0.60,,1(3. ~,tm~o,lt fY&_'''UI rop. K~ npHmJI'l'B.lli.,

2'3" Kpy.»t,~a.n o6cpKa lKetlcKa,1 fYG'axH rop. ROonplmmTllUa

12,4. K;py*eD ~ru:. 05~PK:a JiKeHtxol py6am rop. .. Konp~

25. 'BmmmlEt:l na pyK.e JK~o· py6 'I PL'IO:9=

,Cl(;O'ro Y'e3Aa

26. BHmlmlt-a Ha py:gD~ JKeH'ChiOH pyfi'iiJ.XH DemcnlcKhm Y'C$A3

:2'1. BMLllt1Dd aa ,pyKDe lE(eB)~,oft PycaJU1l Pasir-pil,4CKOI'O YCU3l

2,8. BItI11mIm3 ,m'GllCRoA Ie c, mlrnl' IIpo:e . ~'lmCl(011) yeaAa

'291• B~~~ » -c-cKoA K'oc"~ 110' Op~dra' Y~Ai'l

:31Q. D,.mnmtca B;tW. pyI~,aBe M1flKc.ROi' 1PY6~ 1c:!A.M~ ~ICKOrO Ye3Aa

S 1., C-cmpeMemnUJ: :Harpy AR~Ui ~bDttrmKa Mf3cKOll

py6U11 Qr,.gc CKOl"O' yeaA3i.

!2. aers I1ep~tt CeHhJlCJ}~1ll 0. yeJ~ !Ig. tJlat:n nq1e.AH[1Ka AOB,'I!l8:JlCROl'(!! yc:uta 34,. H~el['~A rqy:lIiIOK CaM(DHIO:BIC~Oir.iO ]!iCl,.ill;3 85. My~oi: 1fYAOK, B~p~(;KOr{g y,ea~

\Q,Aa OS9A311Y K.O'CT}"M()B OT' _'(EB,A TY3CY3,OB,A

3A ~ M I~ :9, s, "1 8.1 s, ]~~ [5.1 !B." :2 - J ,24-j 29 2ili ;'!9~ 31J 32. ,J3 37', as 42.. 4:' ,~, 48j 491' si, 52'1 5.31 51" S91 61m,

OSPA3::{;U~~1' K'OC'TY'MO,I O'T 'BEHBP'A H:ACAEARRK,OB,A.

2, 4. OJ Ul' II i n: 1,4~ 16j U',jI 19m 2..111 22. 21~~ .2:5:. 28~ :30110 §. J 95. )61 3~:JI 4t~ 41.11 451 46~ '47~ ,5.0. 551 56- 51", S8.

_ I..' I' _ •• ,..- .. ... _.. .... _ .. :.. • r" ~ ,. I p.

- - - ---- " -------- --

TA,BLE D<ES MATE.:tRES

I., COSTUMES,

1,., Co5mme de femme de N~'o, de lIatlt)~d~e-' me~l~ de V'id i~e

2., Jteun e BUt: len costume d,:J ete, ,de ~:J,Rrr., d,c Kourna,

S.,Jenne IiUc ea ca;stume d'hiVler de I'arr, de

B61o' at:l:Echwt

4., Cos:lufne d'ftOlmm, Ide l'arr, de ' id:lDe 5~ Cos,tume d' 0 -'~m de ~tarT~ de V',~ba

6~ Costume d' ~u)mm - de f' ~D'" de!B;Q'~evgr,a.dc i~ J~une ,6U.e de 1,~,::uT .. de P]JC'~leD

8~ Jede 'mariee d J! ~ ~ d,e' r~e\'"eD

9~ J eune ,homme, len ,toih~me d; ete de rlaIT,. de

PJevell

.~' ... Costume de femme de I",aw .. de Loy • CD I 1. Costume dr'hom me d 11 u-r de N ikcpol J '. J eune rule de ]'J arr. de SevWjiw.o

IS, Cos ~m,~ d,'1ho.'mn:!Jc de ra,IT~ de Bema

1 4" Gost~ll'me de femme de PiaTT. de KouHe (R()~stdu~uk)

15~ Anc:,-n. costume dt'lI!lln, ~eune D:uuie.e d.e ~~arr .. d~

Siljstta

U5.~ Jeuwe Me de. l~&fi'~ de Raz~dJe

l 1.. Costume de l'eWllm! ,cl·· ]1,Ult., de 'ff(n:',a . Ia

lS,. An ~iell roJiltlUJmc' de f:emm'e de ,~j'3rr., d.e :Pr-edav

1,9, J eiWIf.ie ~ De eo eostume de danse '[pour' la f~tl de

Sl~, ~zare de Parr, de Po-mon e'

20. Jeullc' mmee de ~'amT. de Pomoril! '2'~ .. J c~ne man d ~ '~:JIarr,. de KMmDba.te

'2,2. Cos,tu me d' une Iemme ... , ,'de de ]1I:aiU'~. de K amobate 23~ Cg!;tun.lic a'I'~o'[J:ttme de l'arr, de KMIrJO'bnte

24~ Jeun,c fiUe de ~~ar.r" de: T;OPO~Ci\',gl"aidc

215. emme en Cl)s~lI!llmc die pri~~~Ill,ps de l'arr, de

M Ike n--

, a CJi'o' lmovo

25. ,. 1C~e __ 'iOOst\YlmIC de remme de l'arr, de Tir.novo 21 ~ knd,em ,costume de fCMm de ~'I aEr,., de ( abrove

lOB An -' - - .... h". - d":Il..:: . - d ,1"_ . ..J', n d·

,L , cien C~!i!IL.lliJlime ", ~Dver, IE: ,u:;mme. uC: ,III, ,ilm',F!,. e

DimitrQ'WO

Tren

2ij~ POI itlr de PaLr-I'~ de T'r-an

S: 1" J clI:llnre fiUe em costume de dame pour 13. fete: ~

, E 7.art de j",i\\ff., d;' Sof1~

3,2,. 1 une ,ari,e,e d,e W"ar.r. d Sofia 313. J., n e homme de '1",;1 - ,-" de SOfiil" J4~. JCllll'i,e; majj]~e de J.1,tLiU'll", I' e S~mak,ov

55. Cosit:ume (]_'I [~Oimme de Pm r, de Sa.m.ol\:ov

36 . .J~1I.1ne '6lle en OOShlllJ.r! dl*eu~ de Jtarr~ de 'l{ko

s~end,n 1

S 1. CoS'nllme dete de ~!Ii arr, de ,e:Jnloklop

38. , .. stume d~(he dhomtne d . ]'au. de -: II:;VfC - P

59. Costum~ de fcmm 'd c 1 j arr, de Harmanll

,40~ Jeune Ii l~e de l'arr, de T ehirpan

'4-,~., Co6tum,e; d!'ih;omroc' d~ ~~,ar.r., de H,~skcliito

,42 ~ Cos luou: ,de femme du. XIX e siecle die K,@t¢l 431~ CO~,lume dtun arsisen de Kotd

,44 I. ': ostu l'i13 de femme de' Koprivchtil! a 45,. Costume de Iemme de Panagiu.richm:e

44j~ Ramasseuse d. reses d - ]"arr. de Kaid!o'V'o,

,171. CostUiU;U,e de lemrne d ~ ~iJ!a". de St3r,a,-7.g,ofrl tEL Costum~ de femme de ~' ru r.. de Srcdetz

+9 .. COStwmile ,~ctae] d,e femme des ,R.h odo.pes

1

I

J

51).. COstume d'unc mus.ulmane bmgare ~ des

dopes C - f,!,krue:s

51. Berger des Bhodope:s Ccntralrs.

5~t Oostm me actuel de femme de 1 'an .. d "Iehtimaa ,53,. J,cunill homeae de I' rr.~ dJ' rCbl~ma~

54. CC)Sil'1ll me de ,femme' de PIUT~ de SUI!.Hne 55. J eUID if: tnuie.e de .I" afr, de Svilengrade

56. C~J6u.Hnt aetuel d femme de I'arr, de Raz~ng 51. Costume aetuel de femme de Dobreud] .

,.lam r('~ostume actud Ide Iemm die I'arr, de Si]istn 5,9 COSlume de ft;;mmc' de l'arr, de S1ivC:111

6'0'", ICoslu.mc, de jcun~' l'lomm.e, de, ,~,~ arr, die' srn.l,1fcn

I, -fed rie de. hI miilllcbc dJ~1.1:Ilc chemise ' fem-

me de P'an'~ de- om .

2,. D!roder.i,e du pan d, une c;b,cmis~: d],1!: femm,c de rl~n" de iran

S., Brode~i d, 13 " 'nth dlW;l.l- d~el . ~" de r~mm; de Itacr:r. Ide D,rumitrQVD

4. Bro '-I ~ri ' de 111 manche d'~'DC dlemis:e de G -, de ~ - arr, de Tran

5~ ']3J1odme Idle ~:a 'malilche d'une chemise de femm' de ]',Mf., de Ichrrim:an

6~ Brode.n e d:u pan d'un chj!mis~ de feMme !

I' arr. d,' Ichtimu

H,. de

7. Brodcnc de ~3 manehe d'iunc chemise de remnle' ci Itarr. dlId~ iman

8. rod erie d Ja rnanehe d'une ehemlse de remme

17 [T. de a'

9. roderie du p ]'i( d ;ljmt ci'J~'mn[ie de: femme: de I IT. d I Ichtiman

O. B rod-eric d ~ pan d 'une ch~mD:su: de femme de I art m de Sa nlokov

I. eric d u pan'unc chemise de Femme '0 . d len irnan

lid ~ 11 maache di,'une cbemise de femme Pl r. de Pl~vleJ]

::lr Brodcrie du plastron d'un ,chemise· de femme' de 11 M1". ~c PI . ven

~ Brod I!ne flu p 1 as trea d ~mle chemise de femme de

I IT-de Pleven

Bro e£']e ~u pan d'une chcmm!Se d - Ccmme de II rr, de Phhcn

B edt: du p lMtron d'une c_hemb,>e die remme de I" rr. dr; Pie", £R

~. B:rOd me de ] -. mandu! d U,Ej!: che:mise. de ,ifemlo;c de l'arr, e e e.v1il'ilo

1 . rod erie de ta m.aneh d'une ehemlse d homme de. 1 ,n. e Ple en

1. rnderi do Ia manche d'une ebellliise d.ihemm~ de l' arr, de N iko,pcl

rcll· de

iOra.:

:20. Broa.erie. du eei m, d, . rv::mme de ~'an. de G~ breve .2 [., Berdure dss& d 'Ul:lt co1Jfe dG fS.DUllC de r,art. dJe TU:llOVO

22~ "elitJeUe (kcJle) d june chemise d femme de iCJo~n·i ',-d1.til!lSa

23. DenteD e (k~n£l d'· une MeIMJlisc de ferm~ de Kopr,h,l'c.hritsa

214~ Deneelle (k~1.1~) dj'\lne; ehemise de. i!"emnu: dle Kopel v dilrn tsa

25, .• Brroderie de '1, manehe d:tune cb.Cmlie de: remme de Parr, de T~rlRov,o

:26 .. Broderie i:lle rna manehe d 'une ch, imi.s ' ' d - femme dl,e WI; aer, d POpOY.P

,2 7'~ B:r'Qd,c:,n~ dlC' la Pl,ancbe d'une cl1e'mUe d. rem-tnt de; ~'at!' ~ de Razgrade

28., 'Broo,erie d·tUlle iOoiffe Ide femm,e de ltam:r. de 'fovadi~

29., Broderie d-'~n'e mdfe de Iemm de '~ali1". de

lP • '"

'om~: •.

!O~ ,Ibode.f"j~ de la manehe d~Wl!e cbemisa: d"b;ommc .: ~

~I~ d - S-I~

.~ af'r~ '; ~ , :D!~b

! ! m roderie mederne de Ia pel!itrin~ ,dj1une c'lh.emhe

dl homme d ~'i I!I'~. d Sli va't

9:2~ D~t'3.~m d.iW!!! tabli .r de I'arr, d, StvTij' -, 0 3·.3,. DetiI.Ji d un tabl'ie:r de I'arr, de LD\ IG:! lch

g ~ Chaus,seue' de emme de ]' arr, de Samob'v 35,. IC};UUi15Bcue dlbommJe, d,e '[jan. de Villnpc

D'~SSINS DE COSTUMES p.-R. 'VA TUZ' ZOV

: lJ ~ 5~ 7 8. 9J 12, is, nl 2] 24~ 2&, 271 2'9J 3~ 3211 ~3, 3]'" 311 42~ f3.JJ 4i ' 48 49, 5.1~ 52J, 53~ 541A 59, GD.I~

DIESS I NS .DE C'OST'tT M"E,S PA it VE NER N AS,LlE DN:!'K,OV

lO: :2t 4~ s, llli U. 13m ,14J ~&I 17m .l91, ~r;)~ '22') ,23, 25~ 28;. 901 'Si~J SS~ :SJiJ 39a 4f~ 41.. 45i ~ 4"',11 SOli SS~ 56-.. 51 .. 58,.

"man

mn-

1i~~n.,

e femme

nme de

_ .. r·' - - ..;. _'. _ - ...--" -41 •. - 't.; .•. t-~,. .. --:- I

-- --~-------------- ------- -_.-

t. 'COSTUME

1 W'o,rmm'is dress: &o,m 'N ove-eelo, dis,tTict 'o.f 'Vidin 2 .. Girll's. summer' dr,' .l'om. the dis riet or Kou~a. 3 IGi l's winter dress from th dis,mct or Belo-

gl'ad.r:JOhik

4. 1: an S eostame from the district, f Vidbl 5. M~n'-s costume from dlc district of ' rarsa

6:~ l\fan:\s eostume f:r·o.m the dis,urtct iDf Bl1lte'rgrad '1 ~ Girl from the dis triCIt of Pleven

,8~ I,rid ,&om ~e district of Pleven

9'. y'o.U1:l man's summef-~n'Ume from, ae district

ofP]even

10. Worn a1)!Ils dress from th district of' ovetc 11. {a n's costume frilm the d istriet of Nik,op 0.1 12 .. Maid' s d ress :irom. dl!e district of scv~ ~ev-o l,S~ J'i.,b_nl'-s ccstnme from the cli.strkl. of Bela

~4" Voman~'s dres fTom t e district 0' Rou '

15. oidl bride~dress (l'O'In the dJs.mct, of - ilistra

16.,' ,a]cle-n'~s dl"dS from the 'strict ofRazgra

l 7 ~omtln'-s ress .rrom the dis l:rict of Pro"fad

! 8\0 ,,v oman ill, all. eld dress [r.,o,m d e 'm dis tr.i , 't 'of Preslav

HL Girl in a dance apparel for the L:12:aneas.ulJ,w

th district of P'omori6

20. ' ride -[l'o;m the: _ " -[,J et of Pomorid 211 ~ Elide fi{),m - ~he district of ',- rn .. o b,all,

2'2 .. 01 d wo"l'llan~lii dress frem the distriet of K!U'UIloba:'t 23. Man !s, eestume from the ms.tr~ct of Karaebat 24., Grr] &Otm the dUttkt of Topolfi'l,g.rad

25.,Wo.'JfHlJ!]J~ sprin dress r~gDl the d.istrict of

MaJ.)Qo~ TimovOi

2,ft - oman in an o~d hess tt'CJ,m d]-' district 01 TtInoVO

2: 7. 'W'oniljaD :in m old dim fi-eam &e district or Gab:nJ'1fo

~Ut oman jn ,ZI, old ',vinlt r dress 6001 _' e dis.tri~l of ' ;mutrovo

29., ., f oman in an old sU.mmer dress trom be district of run

30~ P'oUer from the' distr-ict of Tmn

!], .. G~rl ln a dsnee eostum fC'r the - az.arl"e.t:J

from 'the district or 5-o~

92,. S,r-ide. fronl the dls,uic-4;, o.f' om

33 YounB man from th' d~smcll\ of' Sofia:. 3,4,. Bride from the district, of Samomli~

35. h4:an~s !Costume mom the distri ct of SAD'ilDko\1 36~ Girlm,s snrnmee d'teSS ~om It.hli:. d.i$tm,i~:t of

Kustendil

3. 7' W't'Htl:JLfi l:s swnmcr dress from the' dlstrict ,o~

e Qkop

38.. an~s jiJ!llJUi!l:lGlIl' costume '&'Qim - WS'_ U:L 0

=~ev~o,kop

39,. Womanlls, dXe5iS from dle dG-trl,~t Df', armsnli 40,. Ma"den ~F:rom dlJe' djsl:.1'ic't ,af TcJhiirplln

41. M:lD.JS eostume from the dis met of Ha kovo

2. Woman'~s dress of'" the 19lh Oenl1ll1' fr m t e distri - t: of Kotsl

43. ., [:Is-an 19 rnsturne from. h - dls _ ritt oLK.o "

. , .. 'Woman:IJs dr-ess from Ute distnct of K,'opdvs1 tiD 45., \\f,o·mllnls d tess from, the tow~ PafllLagiurishtc 413,. ltose-blosson:i. r-eap r from the district of :K~rl

47,. '0 2U1~!!l dress from the distriet of Stara"Z!l ,48.· OIDilS dress from the district of Sr,e _,c.tz '49. 'Woman"-s d s 'of today fro,m the ICent.

Rttodo,p~

50. \N'Qmam?s m-oCS5, 'Dr ,a,. Bul,arian .. mo.b~meda.n r: - the C ntral R[~.odo,cs,

j,]" Sh pherd from th e Central. Rhcdopes

S2~ Voman:s dress. of' t day from the district or

'l1!.., •

rnnman

5\3~ ~ OU[1! mlan rrom toe' district of Ihtima_n

54. W(nllaH' s dress from the dislIiC't of ·,calin

55. Bri~e fr,D'Jn the distei ct of Svih::mgrad.

5ti~ ,Vorman"s dress of 'toda.y fro:Uii the d~s:trir.t 'tlf R.adog

51 i 'Y1lo.ma .'s. dress of ~od ~ Irorn Dobrudja

5. 8,. '. oman's dre !i: of 'od~,y from th district or S:i is'U'

S9,. 'VMT01'nam'ts IY'es,s, -r~om the district of Sliven

60~ Y:o.un,g man's costume, :fi'am th dis'h"Jl.ct 0' SU .. ·~1

50

Lcko,\I' o,f

trict of

trict of

rmanli

tnw un the

"Qltcl priv-shti!1 ds.ht'

rf KC'1)"loI

ra-Za decs :'cntr

eric of

I

00

1. m hrQ\deJ'j' of woman 's ihirt:-S~Gev~' from 'the d' nrict of Sofia

... Embroidery ,of the [O\iJ'Cl' fringe of \\roman~'s in rrom h d i ocict of Trun

· Embroid~ry of we man 's :sh]rt, .. sleeve from dliJC 1~ - r_; t of Dlmirrovo

· Em.broidery of ",o,ma'l} lIS shlr~s~ceve from tb~ rr trier of Trun

brei C]'~ of woman's shirt-sleeve from th . t • Cl 0_ IhtiJillm

6 mbroidt:ry 'Of'lhc' lower fringe or womafilJ's shirt

[rom the di5,t:ri,~t' of I'h timan

i. Embroidery of wO'ma~~~ :s,b'j rt-s]etVe fllom the t!.trict of Ihtirn an

· m broid ry of \voman":s s~m:'"'s[ eV,1: from dlc: (: . trier of "a.I-e'·

'~ mbl'oid.e. of lh lower rrirng~' of 'W"OlQa ,,'5 shirt rr!}m tbe districm of Ih timliD

10. m br id.~ry or,th lower &01 ge of wo:mam'ls shirt rrom the distrir'~ of S,afno'ko~'

11. Embroidery or the lower Ifring'f' of'wa'D'l.an~s shirt [rom the district of Ihtim:a:tl

I ... - m broidc of. woman's .!birt ~ I v' from dl!~ di rict of PI.\! n

3. Embroidery Dr th· plastro . n of "mm,am.~s shirt rom 'lhe distri ct of Pleven

1. Em bmidary of the 'P~ astroe of woma~!ls ,shin friJ11t the distrltt or P]~vtii:m

.' b l ery c r the lower fringe of womanJJ:s, shirt om l t tti t of 'leven

· mbm-d rl,of he pblSttOn lor weman's shirr m lh~ dl$b'ict of "preven

J mbooith::ry or ,,"v>om.in'li'~S sUrt-sI££: "rOm 'the

~ trier of SevUcvo

1,8~ Embr1lI)idel1' of woman's .sllllrt...sl.eeve from the d.~t1iict or Ple en,

1. broidery of !iii ~ shirt .. sleeve 'U!om&c

d s met of ikotD 1

2:0 .. Emhroidery' of wom,an's bMd-!K.erchief f~om itbe district of G,abmvo

2'1" .I ]IU~rwo.ven. e~bro:id -ry. of ~ oman 's ~e'ad~kerem.er from rt:he dis frkt of imovo

22'., Lace On woman's s1Wt &om the district of K()'pnwht~t.za

2:t Lace OD wCil,nnm~'s shirt &om the district of Kopriv&bti.tza

24, Lace om woman:':; S.h.if~ ft'C'm the district of Koprlv.shdtza

25,. Emb~@idery of \vom3Jl1s shirt-sleeve from the dis ·:ct of Tirneve

26. ,:mbmidery of voman's shirt-sl ve from. the. district of Popcvo

2"],. Embroidety of \>v,oma"rt"s tll:llirt-sleeve ,f],o;tn the distri,ct of Razgradl.

28,. E~IbJ'ojd.ery or wcman's head-kerchief fmm the .olistrlct of P:rcvawa

29' .. Embroidery of \\I'om,an~s headl.-keni ~,~cf from th dis _tiet or Promorie

30., Embroidery of ma.D'S .sbirt-slcevc from the dut~i.ct of S~liven

5 ~ ~ 1· odern ernhroid c:r;r of th~ plasuOD, lor tmlfUl"S. shirt

from the w.stnc of 51ivcn

~,2_ D~ta.d of an apli"ion from [the dj:strict or Se\.fID!ievo

33 Detail of t3ID apl"oo from the dJistn()t 0 f L~v,e:tch ,34" Wontan~s sitlocking fr-om the distric~· or Samdko'V 35,., Mu's S~~, from], Ule mstn(;lt of V'tlin,g,aro

DESIG'·S, or eOSTU 'RS BY" EVA TUZSUZOV

liltlttb~: J Si50 1 8, 9, !'2 I lSj 18~ 2l;, 24 26} 2'1~ 291~ IIJ 92, ~3 37~ 31,. 4'2J 43 44 -m~ '49, S,l, 52~ ,59" 54 59 ,60.

D'ESIGN,S OF COST'UM'EE;, BY' V'BNER WAS ED'NlkOV

~umbt::~: 2 6~ ~Ill 1 DJ '13" ~49i 1,6~ ]1, 19. 2iO~ za, 23" 2'5, 281 30., .ad,~ 35, ,36:J S9;J ~I i!~ 451' 'l6~ 4~:I St1', 55! SS., 51i1' 5B.

31

.A"&·i:l'JI\ A,ln~I 0 H:3 AAT El\ Cl'SO I !ij.\J/KA .M H3 ${Y CTBQ'"

C'1!!C'I'a ~~,~.~: ~I apU:lI' 8eAe,1iI .VHCY:M.~" ibl·Lt l OC~'KII.w::nTe:

H 1Cl(ll'~, Ty~li:y:ii.o

Benepa HacAe~~~~o' a

x: YO,a!: eC'I'!!J e HO (5~ 09"',:111' aHe:, I'e oprn A."I't\u co::

Bb r _·'CKH HAp10,ll HOCM·l1

.•. ~_ ":':. __ '" II. _ _ ____

· ... _- ': ..... :

-.~----

•. .. .•• r· ......•. : I' ••• - ~::--. - •• ~

------- -- ... _ ... __ ._ ._-

- - - .

~ . "I , +- ....• ~ . ~

.. ~~ ._, _."

__ _ . . .. .~:.~~- .... ~·~l·t.:~o-:~~:;~:::.-·l

. - -

/

10

_ ". '., . ~-t~~l·t;~~I-::~ ~:-:.-:.·1

. . .

- - -

1

-.: ~ .• I~"-j~ ~rt-1t.:-. - ~- I ..... I 1,;- r.:.______.,. ........ t.·l; ....... ·I' .. --,1

• - •• •• •• .' " _ .. ....-- .... - _..--- .......-:-:-':: ~ &. 1.+ ! _!=. •••. .. ........ I ... _

- . - - --------=---..:. -- . - -

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