FASHION-ABLE

FASHION-ABLE
Development of new technologies for the flexible and ecoefficient production of customized healthy clothing, footwear
and orthotics for consumers with highly individualized needs
FoF.NMP.2011-4

D5.4 Samples of customised shoes for

addressed target groups through the
involvement of final consumers

RESPONSIBLE

CALZAMEDI

PARTICIPANTS

IBV, HS, ITIA, DITF, KNOPF, ICONVERTER

NATURE

Demonstration

DISEMINATION LEVEL

Public

DELIVERY DATE

30-08-2014

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D5.4 Samples of customised shoes or addressed
target groups through the involvement of final
consumers

Table of Contents
1.

Introduction ............................................................................................................................ 3

2. Overview of the FASHION-ABLE process applied to therapeutic footwear (manufacturer

POV) .............................................................................................................................................. 3
3.

4.

Description of the manufactured samples ............................................................................. 7

3.1

Patient IBV-01 ............................................................................................................................. 8

3.2

Patient IBV-02 ............................................................................................................................. 9

3.3

Patient IBV-03 ........................................................................................................................... 10

3.4

Patient IBV-04 ........................................................................................................................... 11

3.5

Patient IBV-05 ........................................................................................................................... 12

3.6

Patient IBV-06 ........................................................................................................................... 13

3.7

Patient IBV-07 ........................................................................................................................... 14

3.8

Patient IBV-08 ........................................................................................................................... 15

3.9

Patient IBV-09 ........................................................................................................................... 16

3.10

Patient IBV-10 ........................................................................................................................... 17

3.11

Patient IBV-11 ........................................................................................................................... 18

3.12

Patient IBV-12 ........................................................................................................................... 19

3.13

Patient IBV-13 ........................................................................................................................... 20

3.14

Patient IBV-14 ........................................................................................................................... 21

3.15

Patient HS-UB ........................................................................................................................... 22

3.16

Patient HS-AF ........................................................................................................................... 23

3.17

Patient HS-HG ........................................................................................................................... 24

3.18

Patient ITIA-CR ......................................................................................................................... 25

3.19

Patient ITIA-CK ......................................................................................................................... 26

Conclusions ......................................................................................................................... 27

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1.

Introduction

The samples manufactured by Calzamedi have been developed using the new processes,
knowledge, software and materials/finishings developed within the FASHION-ABLE project,
which included:

Online footwear configurator portal developed by Synesis

Standalone 3D scan repair software developed by IBV
New Italian Converter Materials (Spacer Textiles and Stretch Leathers)
New DITF-KOPFSOHN Functional Finishings (Anti-bacterial and Low friction)
New fully digital customised shoe ordering process of Calzamedi

2. Overview of the FASHION-ABLE process applied to

therapeutic footwear (manufacturer POV)

The process starts by the reception of an e-mail indicating that a client has made an order. The
email includes the key information about the order (order no., client, patient, date and order
status) and a link to the Footwear Configurator.
The link redirects to the main page of the configurator, which includes the list of orders made by
all the clients and where the intended order can be selected.

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Once the order is selected, a series of pages show the relevant information of the order that is
needed to manufacture the customised therapeutic footwear including:
(a) Diagnostic and pathologies referred to each foot
(b) Shoe model selected by the patient and aesthetical changes requested (e.g. change of
colour, change of lacing, etc.)
(c) Functional customisation and special characteristics or materials of the shoe (upper, toe
cap, counter, lining, platform, outsole or insole)
(d) Additional foot measurements
(e) Details to be considered for the manufacturing indicated over the 3D file of each foot (e.g.
location of ulcers or indication of areas of the lining where special treatment is required)
(f) 3D scan files of both feet in file exchange formats
(g) Additional files of interest for the manufacturing of footwear

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When the order is received, a customised last is digitally created using CAD software. The last
is used in CAD to modify upper patterns to match the individual foot shape of the patient. Then
the last is manufactured in wood or polymer using a CNC machine, the insole conformed and
the upper materials are cut, stitched and assembled to dress the last. Finally a provisional
outsole is mounted.
Once the order has been manufactured and has been tested by the patient, the Footwear
Configurator offers the possibility to the orthopaedic workshop or the patient to include
additional changes or modifications to be applied to the model in the final assembly.

The trial and modification process can be conducted several times until the shoe fulfils all the
functional and aesthetical requirements of the client and the patient. With the old process this
loop was typically conducted 2-4 times per customised shoe. The improved accuracy of the
information retrieved through the new footwear configurator and tools has made that the new
process reduces this loops to just one or none in the case of existing patients. Finally the
definite outsole is assembled to the footwear.
In addition to the New Footwear Configurator developed and hosted at the FASHION-ABLE
customisation portal together with Bivolinos and BSN wheelchair clothing and orthotics
configurators, we have prepared together with IBV, the upgrade of the online ordering tool
hosted at their own website.It includes most of the advancements developed in the FASHIONABLE project and available in three languages (English, Spanish and French).Once it will be
operational, this site will provide an alternative source of order to the company.

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3.

Description of the manufactured samples

During the footwear manufacturing campaign, we have manufactured a total of 24 customized

pairs of shoes for patients with special needs (diabetic and/or large foot deformities) from Spain,
Italy and Germany (see table below) making use of the newly developed processes, tools and
materials. See table below:
User

Gender

Age

Main Pathology

Country

Pairs produced

IBV-01

Male

42

Diabetes Type II

Spain

IBV-02

Female

56

Hallux valgus

Spain

IBV-03

Male

70

Equinus feet

Spain

IBV-04

Male

53

Cerebral Palsy

Spain

IBV-05

Male

40

Diabetes Type II

Ecuador

IBV-06

Male

45

Charcot-Marie-Tooth

Spain

IBV-07

Male

47

Elephantiasis

Spain

IBV-08

Female

52

Hallux valgus

Spain

IBV-09

Male

66

Diabetes Type II

Spain

IBV-10

Female

59

Equinus-varus feet

Spain

IBV-11

Male

66

Diabetes Type II

Spain

IBV-12

Female

73

Diabetes Type II

Spain

IBV-13

Male

61

Diabetes Type II

Spain

IBV-14

Male

74

Diabetes Type II

Spain

HS-UB

Female

49

Diabetes Type II

Germany

HS-AF

Female

45

Diabetes Type II

Germany

HS-AG

Female

54

Short stature

Germany

ITIA-CR

Male

55

Diabetes Type II

Italy

ITIA-CK

Female

41

Diabetes Type II

Italy

The following pages provide a brief description and images of each of the manufactured
footwear.

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3.1

Patient IBV-01

Case description
Spanish male aged 42. Active lifestyle.Diabetes mellitus Type II. He often has foot ulcers.
Uses crotches to walk because he has high ankle unstability. He has additional foot
deformities.
Footwear special features

Base footwear model: 2087 (see catalogue image)

Boot instead of shoe style.
Hidden platform in both feet of 1cm.
Heel raised 5mm.
Extra hard counter material.
Pronator + valgus inner wedges.
Materials: Leather upper and Natur Calzamedi lining

Final Shoe Delivered

Digital shoe Last

Foot Scans

Images

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3.2 Patient IBV-02

Case description
Spanish Female Aged 56. Active lifestyle. Hallux valgus deformity in both feet.
Footwear special features

Base Footwear Model: 0399 (see catalogue image)

Addition of counter for extra support
Special dimensions for outsole.
Rubber outsole material in Natural colour
Lining in Leather (Natur Calzamedi)
Upper in Leather (Kaly Oild Garnet)

Final Shoe Delivered

Digital shoe Last

Foot Scans

Images

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3.3 Patient IBV-03

Case description
Spanish male aged 70. Poliomielitis (left leg) and Diabetes Type II. Severe Equinus left foot.
Total rigidity of left leg. Additional pair of shoes manufactured using Italian Converter
Materials
Footwear special features

Base Footwear Model: 2040 (see catalogue image)

Left foot: External Platform (4.5-3.4-2.4 cm)
Left Foot: Special Equinus Insole/platform
Left Foot: Special soft counter height 16cm
Left Foot: Pera-type heel
Upper in Brown Leather (Mirage Quina)
Lining in Leather (Nuez Calzamedi)
Fastening with laces.

Final Shoe Delivered

Digital shoe Last

Foot Scans

Images

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3.4 Patient IBV-04

Case description
Spanish male aged 53. Cerebral Palsy. Active lifestyle. Uses crotches to walk. Mild equinusvarus feet. Uses AFO orthotic.
Footwear special features

Base Footwear Model: 2040 (see catalogue image)

Inner room for AFO orthotics
Counter of special height
Materials for Footwear 1: Black Leather upper (Boxcalf
Negro and Cndor Azul) and Plastazote lining.
Materials for Footwear 2: Leather + INCAS spacer upper
from Italian Converter with integrated Italian Converter
Leather lining.

Final Shoe Delivered

Digital shoe Last

Foot Scans

Images

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3.5

Patient IBV-05

Case description
Equatorian Male aged 40. Diabetes Mellitus type II. Patient prone to complicated ulcers.
Wheelchair user. Trans-metatarsal amputee in right foot. Trans-tibial amputee in left limb.
Prosthetic left foot.
Footwear special features

Base Footwear Model: 2074 (see image catalogue)

Right foot: customised ortho-prosthetic insole
Lining in Plastazote
Upper in Cream colour Leather (Patagonia Arena)

Final Shoe Delivered

Digital shoe Last

Foot Scans

Images

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3.6

Patient IBV-06

Case description
Spanish Male aged 45. Charcot-Marie-Tooth chronicle illness. Active lifestyle.
Footwear special features

Base Footwear Model: 2050 (see catalogue image)

Special hard counter
Hidden platform in both feet
Shoe fastening with Lacing
Materials Footwear 1:Leather upper (Jasper Brown Beige)
and smooth leather lining (Goat).
Materials Footwear 2: Black Leather + INCAS spacer upper
from Italian Converter with integrated Italian Converter
Leather lining.

Final Shoe Delivered

Digital shoe Last

Foot Scans

Images

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3.7

Patient IBV-07

Case description
Spanish Male aged 47. Congenital elephantiasis. Diabetes Type II. Prone to have ulcers.
Toe amputations in both feet.
Footwear special features
Base Footwear Model: 2008 (see catalogue image)
Customised insoles with anti-bacterial DITF-KOPFSOHN
treatment
Left foot: Hidden platform (2.5 cm) external platform (2cm)
Upper in Leather (Canad 1.4/1.6 y Serraje negro)
Lining in Leather (Natur) with DITF-KOPFSOHN antibacterial treatment
Special shoe opening dimensions

Final
Shoe
Delivered

Digital shoe Last

Foot Scans

Images

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Fotos a meter por el IBV

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3.8

Patient IBV-08

Case description
Spanish Female aged 52. Severe Hallux Valgus. Claw fingers. Active Lifestyle
Footwear special features
Base Footwear Model: 0375 (see catalogue image)
Materials Footwear 1: Upper in Leather (Arizona Black) and
Lining in Leather (Natur)
MaterialsFootwear 2: Stretch Leather Black Italian
Converter in the Vamp.

Final Shoe Delivered

Digital shoe Last

Foot Scans

Images

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3.9

Patient IBV-09

Case description
Spanish Male aged 66. Diabetes Type II. Claw fingers. High risk of ulceration. Overweight.
Footwear special features

Base Footwear Model: 2074 (see image catalogue)

Personalised insoles with retrocapital support
Lining in Plastazote
Upper in Cream colour Leather (Patagonia Arena)

Final Shoe
Delivered

Digital shoe Last

Foot Scans

Images

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3.10

Patient IBV-10

Case description
Spanish Female aged 59. Severe foot equinus-varus deformation. Risk of ulceraration. Uses
crotches to walk.
Footwear special features

Base footwear Model: 0209 (see image calatogue)

Personlaised insoles.
Special counter boot height
Right foot: external platform (0.5cm)
Outsole with Duck profile in the lateral side
Upper in Leather (Coco Stretch Brown)
Lining in Leather (Natur)

Final Shoe Delivered

Digital shoe Last

Foot Scans

Images

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3.11

Patient IBV-11

Case description
Spanish Male aged 66. Diabetes Type II. Risk of ulceration. Trans-metatarsal amputation in
left foot. Mild equinus foot.
Footwear special features

Base footwear model: 2009 (see catalogue image)

Left foot: Ortho-prosthetic personalised insole
Right foot: external platform 2.2 cm
Upper material in Leather (Mestizo reinforced Black)
Lining in Plastazote

Final Shoe Delivered

Digital shoe Last

Foot Scans

Images

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3.12

Patient IBV-12

Case description
Spanish Female aged 73. Diabetes Mellitus Type II. Double Hallux Valgus. Claw Toes. Risk
of ulceration. Active lifestyle
Footwear special features
Base Footwear Model: 0363 (see catalogue image)
Personalised insoles in both feet
Materials Footwear 1: Upper in stretchable textile (2002
laminated reptile brown) and Plastazote lining
Materials Footwear 2: Stretch Leather black Italian
Converter in the Vamp and Leather lining

Final Shoe
Delivered

Digital shoe Last

Foot Scans

Images

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3.13

Patient IBV-13

Case description
Spanish Male aged 61. Diabetes Mellitus Type II. Active lifestyle.
Footwear special features
Materiales: en piel (Canad 1.1) y forro (Plastazote) Calzamedi.

Base Footwear Model: 2007 (see catalogue image)

Upper material in Leather (Black Canada)
Lining in Plastazote
Insole 1: with DITF-KOPFSOHN Antibacterial and antifriction treatment
Insole 2: in Italian Converter insole spacer with textile lining

Final Shoe Delivered

Digital shoe Last

Foot Scans

Images

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3.14

Patient IBV-14

Case description
Spanish Male aged 74. Diabetes mellitus Type II. Active lifestyle.
Footwear special features
Base Footwear Model: 2067 (see catalogue image)
Upper material in Leather (Black Deer)
Lining in Plastazote with DITF-KOPFSOHN antibacterial
treatment
Insole 1: with DITF-KOPFSOHN Antibacterial and antifriction treatment
Insole 2: in Italian Converter insole spacer with textile lining

Final Shoe Delivered

Digital shoe Last

Foot Scans

Images

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3.15

Patient HS-UB

Case description
German Female aged 49. Diabetes Type II, minor hallux valgus
Footwear special features
Base Footwear Model: 0526 (see catalogue image)
Upper material in Leather (Black Serraje Puntos )
Lining in Cerdo Natur.

Final Shoe Delivered

Digital shoe Last

Foot Scans

Images

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3.16

Patient HS-AF

Case description
German Female aged 45. Diabetes Type II, minor hallux valgus
Footwear special features
Base Footwear Model: 0526 (see catalogue image)
Upper material in Leather (Black Serraje Puntos )
Lining in Cerdo Natur.

Final Shoe Delivered

Digital shoe Last

Foot Scans

Images

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3.17

Patient HS-HG

Case description
German Female aged 54. Person of short stature
Footwear special features

Base Footwear Model: 0500 (see catalogue image)

Upper material in Leather (Trento Rabat)
Lining in On Steam
Insole 1: Calzamedi insole

Final Shoe Delivered

Digital shoe Last

Foot Scans

Images

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3.18

Patient ITIA-CR

Case description
Female aged 41. Genetic malformation on both knees: kneecap dislocation and cartilage
disruption. Prosthetic right knee. Diabetes mellitus type II. Independent and Active lifestyle.
Footwear special features

Base Footwear Model: 0448 (see catalogue image)

Upper material in Leather (Niger Charol Arrugado)
Lining in Cabra Nuez
Insole 1: with DITF-KOPFSOHN Antibacterial and antifriction treatment
Insole 2: Calzamedi insole.

Digital shoe Last

Foot Scans

Images

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3.19

Patient ITIA-CK

Case description
Male aged 55. Diabetes Mellitus type II. Active lifestyle.
Footwear special features

Base Footwear Model: 2067 (see catalogue image)

Upper material in Leather (Black Ciervo) and Nappa Lux
Lining in Plastazote
Insole 1: Space fabric Italian Converter with DITFKOPFSOHN Antibacterial and anti-friction treatment
Insole 2: Calzamedi insole.

Final Shoe Delivered

Digital shoe Last

Foot Scans

Images

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4.

Conclusions

Key innovations and advancements made within the project are the following:
Full digitization of the footwear configuration and online order process
The project has enabled us to offer their clients a fully digital and online process for defining
and ordering customised shoes. The new Footwear configurator enables the clients to
provide all the required information to manufacture customised therapeutic shoes through an
e-form, select the footwear model and attach 3D and complementary information. The
standalone 3D file repair tool enables to automatically repair scan files so that they can be
directly used by the CAD software for shoe last design. The new scanning protocol has
provided more reliable and valid scan data, reducing the number of order resubmissions.The fact of storing digital foot scans and digital lasts has additionally enabled to
save stocking space at our manufacturing facilities.
These advancements have made the order process clearer, simpler and faster to clients.
It has also eliminated the need for creating and sending by courier plaster casts, reducing
lead times, waste and associated costs. In sum, the fully digital process provides a better
control and accuracy over the process, which makes that the number of fit trials iterations
before obtaining the final assembled shoe is dramatically reduced, reducing even more the
lead times and costs.
All these benefits are inline and supporting the internationalisation strategy that the company
is implementing during the last years.
Use of new innovative materials and finishings
The project has enabled us to include into our products a series of novel materials and
finishings developed by other manufacturing partners of the project, namely spacer fabrics
and stretch leather supplied by Italian Converter and anti-bacterial and low friction finishings
provided by DITF-KOPFSOHN. The use of these materials has enabled us to extend span of
functional properties (e.g. mechanical, breathability, thermal, aesthetical, or durability) of our
customised shoes.
Know-how acquisition in the manufacturing process
During the project, and in particular during the footwear manufacturing campaign, we have
identified a number of sources of improvement in our processes that had made us improve
our processes:

Established protocols for scanning feet (i.e. foot locations, cleaning protocol, and use of
white stocking during scanner)
Protocols for taking manual measurements from feet
Additional information about aesthetical preferences of the patients must be gathered to
avoid rejections
Protocol and reporting during fitting tests to reduce testing loops
Limitations of the CNC last manufacturing dimensions for equinus feet
Increased accuracy and repeatability from measurements taken from the 3D scans
compared to manual measurements from plaster positives
Establishment of new foot-last margin parameters depending on pathologies and foot
condition
Increased speed in the digital process and reduced lead times
Additional information directly added to specific locations of the 3D file
Digital storage compared to physical storage.

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