SHIFTY BUSINESS

INSTALLATION OF JERRYS SHIFT IMPROVER KIT

IN A 1995 4R70W THUNDERBIRD
By Anthony Frusco
A-Train
NOTE: This information is based on a pre-modified main control unit and is a
supplement to Jerry's thesis/novel. This report is to show you how to remove the main
control and accumulators for Jerrys shift improver kit.
Last Update: 1-9-02 Applications include any 94-97 3.8L/4.6L T-Bird or Cougar.
The parts/materials required to perform the installation.
Jack (hydraulic, two preferred)
Jack stands and/or ramps
Qaulity Snap ring/retaining ring pliers (with assorted tips)
Metric sockets (deep and regular)
18mm, 10mm, 8mm, etc.
Flat-head screwdrivers (medium size)
1/4", 3/8", and 1/2" ratchets and extensions
15 qt. capacity catch pan
6-ft. of 3/8" ID hose or equivelant
5/16" upper radiator fittings
Inch-pound torque wrench
Needle-nose pliers
Regular pliers
Brake cleaner (F6AZ-2C410-AB), 12 oz. can
Paper towels and shop rags
Speedy dry or Kitty litter
STEP #1: Apply the emergency brake and open the hood, then disconnect the fan wiring
harness. NOTE: This is because the electric fan may come on at any time, even while the
engine is off. Place a suitable 12-15 qt. container near the front of the car. You may wish
to raise the vehicle on jack stands or ramps at this time.
STEP #2: Remove the upper radiator transmission line fitting from the radiator fitting.
Attach a 5/16" adapter to the radiator to allow connection of a 6 ft. long, 3/8" ID hose (if
necessary). DO NOT attach the hose to the metal transmission line. Run the hose from
the fitting to the large capacity pan on the ground. Secure the hose to the fitting properly
with an adjustable clamp.
If you are installing a transmission cooler, follow the procedure below.

Remove the upper radiator transmission line fitting from the radiator fitting. Remove the
radiator fitting that is threaded in the radiator. Install a new 5/16 inverted flare to
male NPT fitting into the radiator. Then install a flared fitting with a 3/8 hose barb into
the inverted flare fitting. Use thread sealant between the two fittings. Push a hose over the
barbed end and secure it with a hose clamp. Run the hose to the large container on the
ground. Note: If you are using empty gallon water containers. Generally, you will get one
full gallon and a gallon of ATF out this way.
STEP #3: Start the engine and let the ATF pump into the pan. This process takes only a
few minutes and requires two people. You may slightly rev the engine to activate the
pump at a higher capacity, but do not exceed 1,200 rpm. Once the ATF fluid starts
spitting or the flow rate slows significantly, stop the engine quickly. Failure to stop the
engine could result in transmission damage as the pump sucks up air. Re-install the
transmission line to the radiator fitting and discard the 3/8" ID hose. NOTE: Now is an
excellent time to install an auxiliary transmission cooler.
STEP #4: Safely support the vehicle on jack stands and/or ramps, then move the large
capacity pan to under the torque converter. Remove the rubber access plug from the bell
housing shield using a flathead screwdriver.
You will have to rotate the engine to align the torque converter drain plug with the access
hole in the bell housing shield. The easiest way to do this, is to place an 18mm socket and
drive (or breaker bar) over the crankshaft pulley bolt. Then rotate the crankshaft
CLOCKWISE until you see the drain plug through the hole in the bell housing. Another
way to do this, is to disconnect the coil pack electrical connectors. Then crank the engine,
to align the drain plug (two people make this task easier).
Remove the torque converter drain plug and allow the ATF to drain. It will take about 30
minutes to completely drain the torque converter.
STEP #5: Remove the transmission pan by loosening the 14, 10mm pan bolts. By
draining the transmission through the cooler lines, the pan will therefore have less than a
quart of ATF in it. Drop the pan carefully to avoid spilling any remaining ATF. Remove
the filter assembly and verify the filter seal was removed from the bore. Drop the filter
into the pan. Discard the plastic plunger that may be floating in the pan. It was used to
plug the dip stick hole during the factory assembly. Allow the transmission to drip
thoroughly before removing the main controls (valve body).
STEP #6: While the transmission and torque converter are draining together into the large
capacity catch pan, remove the electrical connectors to; the TCC (torque converter clutch)
solenoid - 7G136, shift control solenoids - 7G484, EPC (VFS) solenoid - 7G383, and the
TOT sensor, the plastic tab on the main controls - 7H141.
STEP #7: Transfer the magnet from the original '94-'95 4R70W transmission pan to the
new '96 deep sump pan (F6AZ-7A194-A). There is also a '98 deep sump pan with a drain
plug available (F8UZ-7A194-AA). NOTE: This step does not apply to '96-'97 T-Birds
and Cougars, since they already have the deep sump transmission pan and corresponding
filter assembly. Be sure to clean the magnet thoroughly with the brake cleaner spray.
NOTE: DO NOT spray near the vehicle as the overspray will attack the paint. Be sure to
wear safety glasses when using the brake cleaner spray. Clean out the new transmission
pan as well to remove any debris that may have settled during packaging or shipment.

Place the magnet in the same spot as it was located in the original pan. Place the pan to
the side for the time being. NOTE: If you are re-using the original pan, it must be
thoroughly cleaned out as well.
STEP #8: Remove the 25-8mm main control (valve body) bolts. Start with the EPC/VFS
solenoid bracket and remove that bolt (1), then the bracket. Then remove the 12 bolts
around the valve body plate or the shorter length 8mm bolts. Finally, remove the 12
longer length 8mm bolts inside the valve body plate. Note one of the bolts retains the
Rooster Comb Spring (with the roller attached to it). Make a drawing or write down a
brief description of the manual valve and the detent lever set-up.
The manual valve is the valve shown here in this photo. The detent wheels pin attaches
in the FIRST section on the valve (the very thin part before the c-clip ring).
Carefully lower the valve body into the original transmission pan or have somebody
ready to receive it. It will be heavier than you expect. Move it to the work bench. Be
careful, as the 2-3 accumulator retainer and spring may fall out and drop into the fluid
pan below. NOTE: To perform the main control modifications, your working
environment should be as sterile as possible and free of debris. Once you get the main
control down and on the bench, you may wish to remove the shift solenoids from their
bore. This is optional, but it does make the main control easier to work on. To remove the
shift solenoids, loosen the bolt retaining them. Then wiggle the solenoids back and forth
while carefully pulling upward. The solenoids will pull out without much effort. Inspect
the snout of the solenoids for cracks. If there are any, replace the solenoid pack with a
new one. Use the p.n. that is on the pack. Do not re-use the solenoids if the snouts are
cracked.
I will not go into detail on how to modify the main controls in this report, considering
they may vary from vehicle-to-vehicle per application. Consult with my Valve Body
How-To report or Jerry's thesis/novel for exact instructions on how to perform the
changes to the main controls (shift improver kit). This also applies to the Inject Techs
pre-drilled separator plate. Perform the modifications at this point.
STEP #9: Modify the main controls or swap the pre-drilled separator plate. Refer to the
how-to report.
STEP #10: 2.7" OVERDRIVE SERVO (if applicable). To remove the OD Servo (see the
CPD Drawing for the bore location) the valve body must be removed before hand. When
you remove the main controls, you will find a hole in the case next the OD servo bore.
The hole goes through to the barrel of the transmission where you will see the OD band.
If you remove the OD Servo and do not anchor or hold the OD band, it can move when
you attempt to re-install the OD servo. If this occurs, you will not have access to the
Overdrive gear (4th).
BEFORE you remove the OD servo, use the Rooster Comb Spring (the flat metal part
with the roller on the end of it), p.n. 7E332, to wedge against the OD band. Install it into
the hole next to the OD servo bore so that the roller is sticking out. Wedge it against the
back of the OD band and the transmission case, but do not damage the Rooster Comb
Spring. Remove the snap ring retaining the OD servo using small screwdrivers or snap
ring pliers. Next, remove the OD servo from the bore. If you should hear/feel the OD
band fall, do not panic. You can push up on the pocket once the OD servo is removed

from the bore. You will quickly learn that when you push up on the pocket, the OD band
moves and the hole on the side will no longer be visible. The tip of the OD servo must
contact the
pocket (dimple) in the band.
While still holding the OD Band in place with the Rooster Comb Spring, install the new
2.7" OD servo (F75Z-7H188-AA) and the appropriate return spring based on your
horsepower level. NOTE: The 2.7" OD Servo does not have the metal sleeve like the
stock 2.5" OD servo. Simply place the NEW return spring p.n. F87Z-7F201-AA over the
servo piston so it sits in the perch. Apply some fresh ATF to the rubber seal around the
edge of the new servo, then install the 2.7" OD servo into it's bore. Be sure to install it so
it does not enter on an angle.
In the bore you will notice two grooves. The snap ring (7384) must be installed in the
second groove. To do this, it may be necessary to use a hydraulic jack, with a large deep
socket to help hold the servo up into the bore while you install the retaining ring (see
Reverse Servo). Place the large diameter deep socket (i.e.
1-1/16") on the tip of the jack mount and raise the jack height to reach the OD servo
bottom. Then slowly increase the height until the second groove in the bore is visible. DO
NOT over force the servo up into the bore with the hydraulic jack, or damage to the
transmission could occur. Once the snap ring is installed, you can remove the Rooster
Comb spring from the hole.
ADDITIONAL NOTES:
In Step #13, the "shifter roller" is the Rooster Comb Spring, p.n. 7E332. Obviously, it
needs to be re-installed on the valve body. You can also use a screwdriver to perform this
step.
You cannot use spring p.n. F3LY-7F201-A or the stock 2.5 OD servo spring with the
2.7" OD servo.
STEP #11: REVERSE SERVO (if applicable). To remove the reverse servo (the largest
bore), remove the retaining ring with a small screwdriver. The servo will pop out fairly
easily. Be sure not to lose the return spring (7D031) that goes on the top of the servo or
the retaining clamp between the retaining ring and the servo (7D036). Apply some fresh
ATF with your finger to the rubber seal before installing the servo. Install part number
E0AZ-7D189-A and it has only one groove (or ring) on the servo. Be sure to re-install the
retaining clamp and return spring as well. It may be necessary to use a 1-1/16" socket and
2" extension as well as a hydraulic jack to hold the new reverse servo up in its bore while
you install the snap ring. DO NOT OVER-APPLY PRESSURE TO THE SERVO with
the hydraulic jack or damage to the transmission could occur.
STEP #12: 1-2 ACCUMULATOR PISTON. To remove the 1-2 accumulator piston,
remove the snap ring using snap ring/retaining ring pliers. WARNING: The 1-2
accumulator pistons spring and snap ring may eject with extreme force when you release
the snap ring. This depends on the accumulator spring set-up your vehicle has.
Remove the snap ring with a good pair of snap ring pliers.
The 1-2 accumulator piston should pop out of its bore fairly easily. If not, push up on it

with your fingers or an extension to re-act the return spring. Use Scotch-Brite on the
accumulator bore if it is slightly scored. Spray brake cleaner to clean out the bore before
you install the new updated accumulator piston. Allow the brake cleaner to evaporate
before installing the new piston. Apply some fresh ATF with your finger to the rubber
seals on the accumulator piston before installing it.
Photo from Jerrys thesis.
Install the new rubber bonded accumulator piston (F7AZ-7F251-AA) and use the blue
return spring on the top (F75Z-7F284-AA). Do not install the original spring on the
bottom of the piston. Leaving the spring out will firm up the 1-2 upshift. Re-install the
accumulator retaining cover (7F247) followed by the snap/retaining ring (7384). The
orientation of the accumulator cover can be confusing if your not paying attention when
its removed. Always look for the marks in the spring perch inside the cover, to tell you
which end is up. Obviously, the marks mean the spring was rubbing and that end is up.
There is also a part number stamped into the cover, the p.n. goes down. Use the
snap/retaining ring pliers to re-install the snap ring.
STEP #13: 2-3 ACCUMULATOR PISTON. To remove the 2-3 accumulator piston,
simply remove the main controls (valve body). The retainer and return spring will fall out
freely (the original piston is made of all-aluminum). Use a pair of needle nose pliers to
pull the 2-3 accumulator piston out from its bore. Clean out the bore with brake cleaner
and allow some time for it to evaporate. Apply fresh ATF with your finger, to the seals on
the 2-3 accumulator piston. Then install the new rubber bonded 2-3 accumulator piston
(F7AZ-7H292-AB). Do not re-install the stock return spring, or any return spring for that
matter. You will have to bend the tabs out on the retaining clamp (7B264) SLIGHTLY
with a pair of pliers in order to keep the 2-3 accumulator in it's bore.
STEP #14: EPC (VFS) Solenoid (if applicable). To remove the old EPC solenoid, you
must remove the retaining nut from the shifter linkage using a 13/16" wrench. There is
also a small pin that must be removed using needle-nose pliers. Do not lose the small pin
as it will be re-installed later.
Carefully remove the EPC solenoid and replace it with the '96 version (F6AZ-7G383AA). Re-install it in reverse order. You must use a new style EPC bracket (F6AZ-7H111A) with a '96 and newer style main control unit. NOTE: The '96-'97 T-Birds and
Cougars already have the new style bracket.
Please note that a different higher pressure solenoid exists as well (XL3Z-7G383-AA).
However for pre-1998 models (through 1997), you must cut the pigtail from the wiring
harness and solder the wires (or crimp connect as shown in Jerry's thesis) to the new style
EPC solenoid's connector. This was done because of the wireless connectors (circuit
board) used in the 1998 model 4R70W transmissions. Note: If you are installing Jerrys
Shift Improver kit, you do not have to change the EPC solenoid. Replacing the EPC
solenoid is optional and for high HP applications. You do not need to use the higher
pressure solenoid, its optional. DO NOT under any circumstance adjust the screw in the
rear of the EPC solenoid, or transmission damage could occur.
STEP #15: Re-install the main controls (valve body) at this time. Be sure that the 1-2
Accumulator, 2-3 Accumulator, Reverse Servo, and EPC solenoid are up in their proper
locations (especially the 2-3 accumulator) before proceeding. There is also a little black

cone-shaped filter that goes into the transmission case near the rear of the transmission
(towards the driveshaft). Be sure that it hasn't fallen out as well. DO NOT LEAVE IT
OUT. Verify that you have properly performed the main controls (valve body)
modifications before continuing. NOTE: If you are installing a '96 and newer style main
control (suggested is '99) in an older style case ('94-'95 4R70W), you must install two
pilot sleeves (F6AZ-7K720-A), they are sold in a package of two. Place them over the
two black tips on the top of the main controls and install the assembly into the
transmission case.
You must align the manual valve with the detent wheels pin. See the previous photo. The
pin gets inserted into the FIRST section on the manual valve (the thin part before the cclip ring). The Rooster Comb springs roller should be in the fourth (4th) detent when the
transmission is in Park. You must do this correctly or you will not have access to all gear
selections.
You can see the shift solenoids in this photo. This photo may vary from your main
control, its just for reference.
STEP #16: Spray the inside of the transmission case with brake cleaner spray to remove
the ATF fluid from your work area. Install the valve body in the reverse order as it was
removed. Carefully thread two of the longer 8mm bolts into the opposite ends of the main
controls, to hold it in place. Re-install the remaining 23 bolts that retain the valve body.
Torque the bolts to 90 in.-lbs. Hook up the electrical connections to the various sensors.
Here is the check list; TCC (Torque converter clutch) solenoid, Shift solenoids, EPC
solenoid, and black plastic tab (7H141). Be careful not to incorrectly hook up the
solenoids to the wiring harness or transmission damage could occur. See the CPD
drawing below for details. The following shows you the torque sequence for the main
control bolts.
IMPORTANT: Re-install and tighten the bolt that secures the shifter linkage if you have
removed the EPC solenoid. Then install the pin and roller. Be sure to verify the shifter
still works and you can remove the key in Park. Turn the key to the on position (DO NOT
start the engine) and move the shifter through the gears, then remove the key. If you
cannot remove they key in Park, you must re-adjust the linkage. This step is not difficult,
but it is important.
STEP #17: Install the '96 filter (F6AZ-7A098-A) assembly into it's bore in the main
controls. Regardless of which year transmission you have ('94-'97) you have to install the
'96 filter. Apply fresh ATF with your finger to the filter seal before installing it.
STEP # 18: Install the '96 (or '98) deep sump transmission pan
(F6AZ-7A194-A). NOTE: The '96-'97 T-Birds and Cougars are equipped with the deep
sump pan from the factory. Re-use the original transmission pan gasket ('94-'97),
provided it is not ripped or damaged. It is fairly durable and the '96 pan actually states,
"This pan is equipped with a re-usable gasket". Bolt up the pan using the original 14,
10mm bolts. Tighten the pan bolts up to 120 in.-lbs. of torque. IMPORTANT: If you have
a cork style gasket instead of the factory gasket, it is highly recommended you upgrade to
the p.n. F2VY-7A191-A. This is also the p.n. for the gasket in case you rip or damage
your re-usable one.
STEP # 19: Re-install the torque converter drain plug and torque it to 22 lbs-ft. or 30 N-m

(this is hand tight). Then pop the rubber seal in the bell housing shield. NOTE: Re-install
the fan wiring harness at this time.
STEP #20: Fill the transmission through the dip stick tube. Add 6 qts. of MERCON-V
ATF (XT-5-QM) at first. Hold the brake firmly and start the engine. Move the shifter
level through the gears, stopping at each indent or position. Do not panic if you do not
feel the transmission engage into gear. Stop the engine and add 6 more quarts of
MERCON-V ATF to the dip stick tube. Stop again at 10 qts. and repeat the process listed
above. The 4R70W holds 12-13 quarts of ATF fluid, do not over-fill the transmission.
NOTE: If you have an auxiliary transmission cooler, you will require 13-14 quarts of
ATF.
STEP #21: Inspect the pan and transmission for leaks. Then carefully lower the vehicle to
the ground. Start the engine and allow the transmission to warm up to normal operating
temperature, listen for strange noises or smells. If you see smoke, do not panic, it is just
the ATF burning off of the exhaust parts. Once the engine has warmed, rev the engine
slightly (to activate the pump). Then move the shifter lever through the gears. Hold each
gear for at least one second before changing to a new indent or position. You should feel
the transmission engage each gear followed by a decrease in engine rpm.
STEP #22: Road test the vehicle. Observe the shifting, firmness of the shifts and rpm of
the shift points. Also check reverse and forward gear characteristics. Accelerate to 45-50
mph and press the Overdrive "ON/OFF" button located on the shifter handle. Verify that
the transmission has engaged 4th (OD) gear and that the vehicle accelerates properly.
Verify you can manually shift the transmission in the 1-2 and 2-3 positions.
STEP #23: Re-check the clamps on the transmission cooler lines and auxiliary cooler.
Check to make sure you have no leaks, especially under the pan or TC. Verify that your
fluid level is correct in both "Cold" and "Warm" conditions. Enjoy your new upgrades.
Be sure to re-check the clamps and fluid level on a regular basis after you install the
modifications listed above. Estimated installation time 6-7 hours.
Please dispose of the ATF and used parts according to your local and state laws. Clean up
any spilled ATF fluid using proper methods. Animals are attracted to the ATF, and it is
very harmful to them. Wear nitrile gloves if your skin is sensitive to the ATF's properties.
Special thanks to Adam H. for turning the wrenches and Jerry for the modified main
controls and technical support.
NOTE: The TCCOA, nor the author assumes responsibility for damaged and/or broken
materials during the installation of the aforementioned parts. This document is solely
designed as a supplement to a Ford Motor Company shop manual.
SHIFTY BUSINESS
INSTALLATION OF JERRYS SHIFT IMPROVER KIT
IN A 1995 4R70W THUNDERBIRD

By Anthony Frusco
A-Train

NOTE: This information is based on a pre-modified main control unit and is a supplement to
Jerry's thesis/novel. This report is to show you how to remove the main control and accumulators
for Jerrys shift improver kit.
Last Update: 1-9-02 Applications include any 94-97 3.8L/4.6L T-Bird or Cougar.

The parts/materials required to perform the installation.

Jack (hydraulic, two preferred)

Jack stands and/or ramps
Qaulity Snap ring/retaining ring pliers (with assorted tips)
Metric sockets (deep and regular)
18mm, 10mm, 8mm, etc.
Flat-head screwdrivers (medium size)
1/4", 3/8", and 1/2" ratchets and extensions
15 qt. capacity catch pan
6-ft. of 3/8" ID hose or equivelant
5/16" upper radiator fittings
Inch-pound torque wrench
Needle-nose pliers
Regular pliers
Brake cleaner (F6AZ-2C410-AB), 12 oz. can
Paper towels and shop rags
Speedy dry or Kitty litter

STEP #1: Apply the emergency brake and open the hood, then disconnect the fan wiring harness.
NOTE: This is because the electric fan may come on at any time, even while the engine is off.
Place a suitable 12-15 qt. container near the front of the car. You may wish to raise the vehicle on
jack stands or ramps at this time.

STEP #2: Remove the upper radiator transmission line fitting from the radiator fitting. Attach a
5/16" adapter to the radiator to allow connection of a 6 ft. long, 3/8" ID hose (if necessary). DO
NOT attach the hose to the metal transmission line. Run the hose from the fitting to the large
capacity pan on the ground. Secure the hose to the fitting properly with an adjustable clamp.

If you are installing a transmission cooler, follow the procedure below.

Remove the upper radiator transmission line fitting from the radiator fitting. Remove the radiator
fitting that is threaded in the radiator. Install a new 5/16 inverted flare to male NPT fitting into
the radiator. Then install a flared fitting with a 3/8 hose barb into the inverted flare fitting. Use
thread sealant between the two fittings. Push a hose over the barbed end and secure it with a
hose clamp. Run the hose to the large container on the ground. Note: If you are using empty
gallon water containers. Generally, you will get one full gallon and a gallon of ATF out this way.

STEP #3: Start the engine and let the ATF pump into the pan. This process takes only a few
minutes and requires two people. You may slightly rev the engine to activate the pump at a higher
capacity, but do not exceed 1,200 rpm. Once the ATF fluid starts spitting or the flow rate slows
significantly, stop the engine quickly. Failure to stop the engine could result in transmission
damage as the pump sucks up air. Re-install the transmission line to the radiator fitting and
discard the 3/8" ID hose. NOTE: Now is an excellent time to install an auxiliary transmission
cooler.

STEP #4: Safely support the vehicle on jack stands and/or ramps, then move the large capacity
pan to under the torque converter. Remove the rubber access plug from the bell housing shield
using a flathead screwdriver.

You will have to rotate the engine to align the torque converter drain plug with the access hole in
the bell housing shield. The easiest way to do this, is to place an 18mm socket and drive (or
breaker bar) over the crankshaft pulley bolt. Then rotate the crankshaft CLOCKWISE until you
see the drain plug through the hole in the bell housing. Another way to do this, is to disconnect
the coil pack electrical connectors. Then crank the engine, to align the drain plug (two people
make this task easier).

Remove the torque converter drain plug and allow the ATF to drain. It will take about 30 minutes
to completely drain the torque converter.

STEP #5: Remove the transmission pan by loosening the 14, 10mm pan bolts. By draining the
transmission through the cooler lines, the pan will therefore have less than a quart of ATF in it.
Drop the pan carefully to avoid spilling any remaining ATF. Remove the filter assembly and verify
the filter seal was removed from the bore. Drop the filter into the pan. Discard the plastic plunger
that may be floating in the pan. It was used to plug the dip stick hole during the factory assembly.
Allow the transmission to drip thoroughly before removing the main controls (valve body).

STEP #6: While the transmission and torque converter are draining together into the large
capacity catch pan, remove the electrical connectors to; the TCC (torque converter clutch)
solenoid - 7G136, shift control solenoids - 7G484, EPC (VFS) solenoid - 7G383, and the TOT
sensor, the plastic tab on the main controls - 7H141.

STEP #7: Transfer the magnet from the original '94-'95 4R70W transmission pan to the new '96
deep sump pan (F6AZ-7A194-A). There is also a '98 deep sump pan with a drain plug available
(F8UZ-7A194-AA). NOTE: This step does not apply to '96-'97 T-Birds and Cougars, since they
already have the deep sump transmission pan and corresponding filter assembly. Be sure to
clean the magnet thoroughly with the brake cleaner spray. NOTE: DO NOT spray near the vehicle
as the overspray will attack the paint. Be sure to wear safety glasses when using the brake
cleaner spray. Clean out the new transmission pan as well to remove any debris that may have
settled during packaging or shipment. Place the magnet in the same spot as it was located in the
original pan. Place the pan to the side for the time being. NOTE: If you are re-using the original
pan, it must be thoroughly cleaned out as well.

STEP #8: Remove the 25-8mm main control (valve body) bolts. Start with the EPC/VFS solenoid
bracket and remove that bolt (1), then the bracket. Then remove the 12 bolts around the valve
body plate or the shorter length 8mm bolts. Finally, remove the 12 longer length 8mm bolts inside
the valve body plate. Note one of the bolts retains the Rooster Comb Spring (with the roller
attached to it). Make a drawing or write down a brief description of the manual valve and the
detent lever set-up.

The manual valve is the valve shown here in this photo. The detent wheels pin attaches in the
FIRST section on the valve (the very thin part before the c-clip ring).

Carefully lower the valve body into the original transmission pan or have somebody ready to
receive it. It will be heavier than you expect. Move it to the work bench. Be careful, as the 2-3
accumulator retainer and spring may fall out and drop into the fluid pan below. NOTE: To perform
the main control modifications, your working environment should be as sterile as possible and
free of debris. Once you get the main control down and on the bench, you may wish to remove
the shift solenoids from their bore. This is optional, but it does make the main control easier to
work on. To remove the shift solenoids, loosen the bolt retaining them. Then wiggle the solenoids
back and forth while carefully pulling upward. The solenoids will pull out without much effort.

Inspect the snout of the solenoids for cracks. If there are any, replace the solenoid pack with a
new one. Use the p.n. that is on the pack. Do not re-use the solenoids if the snouts are cracked.

I will not go into detail on how to modify the main controls in this report, considering they may
vary from vehicle-to-vehicle per application. Consult with my Valve Body How-To report or
Jerry's thesis/novel for exact instructions on how to perform the changes to the main controls
(shift improver kit). This also applies to the Inject Techs pre-drilled separator plate. Perform the
modifications at this point.

STEP #9: Modify the main controls or swap the pre-drilled separator plate. Refer to the how-to
report.

STEP #10: 2.7" OVERDRIVE SERVO (if applicable). To remove the OD Servo (see the CPD
Drawing for the bore location) the valve body must be removed before hand. When you remove
the main controls, you will find a hole in the case next the OD servo bore. The hole goes through
to the barrel of the transmission where you will see the OD band. If you remove the OD Servo
and do not anchor or hold the OD band, it can move when you attempt to re-install the OD servo.
If this occurs, you will not have access to the Overdrive gear (4th).

BEFORE you remove the OD servo, use the Rooster Comb Spring (the flat metal part with the
roller on the end of it), p.n. 7E332, to wedge against the OD band. Install it into the hole next to
the OD servo bore so that the roller is sticking out. Wedge it against the back of the OD band and
the transmission case, but do not damage the Rooster Comb Spring. Remove the snap ring
retaining the OD servo using small screwdrivers or snap ring pliers. Next, remove the OD servo
from the bore.
If you should hear/feel the OD band fall, do not panic. You can push up on the
pocket once the OD servo is removed from the bore. You will quickly learn that when you push up
on the pocket, the OD band moves and the hole on the side will no longer be visible. The tip of
the OD servo must contact the
pocket (dimple) in the band.

While still holding the OD Band in place with the Rooster Comb Spring, install the new 2.7" OD
servo (F75Z-7H188-AA) and the appropriate return spring based on your horsepower level.
NOTE: The 2.7" OD Servo does not have the metal sleeve like the stock 2.5" OD servo. Simply
place the NEW return spring p.n. F87Z-7F201-AA over the servo piston so it sits in the perch.
Apply some fresh ATF to the rubber seal around the edge of the new servo, then install the 2.7"
OD servo into it's bore. Be sure to install it so it does not enter on an angle.

In the bore you will notice two grooves. The snap ring (7384) must be installed in the second
groove. To do this, it may be necessary to use a hydraulic jack, with a large deep socket to help
hold the servo up into the bore while you install the retaining ring (see Reverse Servo). Place the
large diameter deep socket (i.e.
1-1/16") on the tip of the jack mount and raise the jack height to reach the OD servo bottom. Then
slowly increase the height until the second groove in the bore is visible. DO NOT over force the
servo up into the bore with the hydraulic jack, or damage to the transmission could occur. Once
the snap ring is installed, you can remove the Rooster Comb spring from the hole.

ADDITIONAL NOTES:

In Step #13, the "shifter roller" is the Rooster Comb Spring, p.n. 7E332. Obviously, it needs to be
re-installed on the valve body. You can also use a screwdriver to perform this step.

You cannot use spring p.n. F3LY-7F201-A or the stock 2.5 OD servo spring with the 2.7" OD
servo.

STEP #11: REVERSE SERVO (if applicable). To remove the reverse servo (the largest bore),
remove the retaining ring with a small screwdriver. The servo will pop out fairly easily. Be sure not
to lose the return spring (7D031) that goes on the top of the servo or the retaining clamp between
the retaining ring and the servo (7D036). Apply some fresh ATF with your finger to the rubber seal
before installing the servo. Install part number E0AZ-7D189-A and it has only one groove (or ring)
on the servo. Be sure to re-install the retaining clamp and return spring as well. It may be
necessary to use a 1-1/16" socket and 2" extension as well as a hydraulic jack to hold the new
reverse servo up in its bore while you install the snap ring. DO NOT OVER-APPLY PRESSURE
TO THE SERVO with the hydraulic jack or damage to the transmission could occur.

STEP #12: 1-2 ACCUMULATOR PISTON. To remove the 1-2 accumulator piston, remove the
snap ring using snap ring/retaining ring pliers. WARNING: The 1-2 accumulator pistons spring
and snap ring may eject with extreme force when you release the snap ring. This depends on the
accumulator spring set-up your vehicle has.

Remove the snap ring with a good pair of snap ring pliers.

The 1-2 accumulator piston should pop out of its bore fairly easily. If not, push up on it with your
fingers or an extension to re-act the return spring. Use Scotch-Brite on the accumulator bore if it
is slightly scored. Spray brake cleaner to clean out the bore before you install the new updated
accumulator piston. Allow the brake cleaner to evaporate before installing the new piston. Apply
some fresh ATF with your finger to the rubber seals on the accumulator piston before installing it.

Photo from Jerrys thesis.

Install the new rubber bonded accumulator piston (F7AZ-7F251-AA) and use the blue return
spring on the top (F75Z-7F284-AA). Do not install the original spring on the bottom of the piston.
Leaving the spring out will firm up the 1-2 upshift. Re-install the accumulator retaining cover
(7F247) followed by the snap/retaining ring (7384). The orientation of the accumulator cover can
be confusing if your not paying attention when its removed. Always look for the marks in the
spring perch inside the cover, to tell you which end is up. Obviously, the marks mean the spring
was rubbing and that end is up. There is also a part number stamped into the cover, the p.n. goes
down. Use the snap/retaining ring pliers to re-install the snap ring.

STEP #13: 2-3 ACCUMULATOR PISTON. To remove the 2-3 accumulator piston, simply remove
the main controls (valve body). The retainer and return spring will fall out freely (the original piston
is made of all-aluminum). Use a pair of needle nose pliers to pull the 2-3 accumulator piston out
from its bore. Clean out the bore with brake cleaner and allow some time for it to evaporate.
Apply fresh ATF with your finger, to the seals on the 2-3 accumulator piston. Then install the new
rubber bonded 2-3 accumulator piston (F7AZ-7H292-AB). Do not re-install the stock return
spring, or any return spring for that matter. You will have to bend the tabs out on the retaining
clamp (7B264) SLIGHTLY with a pair of pliers in order to keep the 2-3 accumulator in it's bore.

STEP #14: EPC (VFS) Solenoid (if applicable). To remove the old EPC solenoid, you must
remove the retaining nut from the shifter linkage using a 13/16" wrench. There is also a small pin
that must be removed using needle-nose pliers. Do not lose the small pin as it will be re-installed
later.

Carefully remove the EPC solenoid and replace it with the '96 version (F6AZ-7G383-AA). Re-

install it in reverse order. You must use a new style EPC bracket (F6AZ-7H111-A) with a '96 and
newer style main control unit. NOTE: The '96-'97 T-Birds and Cougars already have the new style
bracket.

Please note that a different higher pressure solenoid exists as well (XL3Z-7G383-AA). However
for pre-1998 models (through 1997), you must cut the pigtail from the wiring harness and solder
the wires (or crimp connect as shown in Jerry's thesis) to the new style EPC solenoid's connector.
This was done because of the wireless connectors (circuit board) used in the 1998 model 4R70W
transmissions. Note: If you are installing Jerrys Shift Improver kit, you do not have to change the
EPC solenoid. Replacing the EPC solenoid is optional and for high HP applications. You do not
need to use the higher pressure solenoid, its optional. DO NOT under any circumstance adjust
the screw in the rear of the EPC solenoid, or transmission damage could occur.

STEP #15: Re-install the main controls (valve body) at this time. Be sure that the 1-2
Accumulator, 2-3 Accumulator, Reverse Servo, and EPC solenoid are up in their proper locations
(especially the 2-3 accumulator) before proceeding. There is also a little black cone-shaped filter
that goes into the transmission case near the rear of the transmission (towards the driveshaft). Be
sure that it hasn't fallen out as well. DO NOT LEAVE IT OUT. Verify that you have properly
performed the main controls (valve body) modifications before continuing. NOTE: If you are
installing a '96 and newer style main control (suggested is '99) in an older style case ('94-'95
4R70W), you must install two pilot sleeves (F6AZ-7K720-A), they are sold in a package of two.
Place them over the two black tips on the top of the main controls and install the assembly into
the transmission case.

You must align the manual valve with the detent wheels pin. See the previous photo. The pin
gets inserted into the FIRST section on the manual valve (the thin part before the c-clip ring). The
Rooster Comb springs roller should be in the fourth (4th) detent when the transmission is in Park.
You must do this correctly or you will not have access to all gear selections.

You can see the shift solenoids in this photo. This photo may vary from your main control, its just
for reference.

STEP #16: Spray the inside of the transmission case with brake cleaner spray to remove the ATF
fluid from your work area. Install the valve body in the reverse order as it was removed. Carefully
thread two of the longer 8mm bolts into the opposite ends of the main controls, to hold it in place.
Re-install the remaining 23 bolts that retain the valve body. Torque the bolts to 90 in.-lbs. Hook up
the electrical connections to the various sensors. Here is the check list; TCC (Torque converter
clutch) solenoid, Shift solenoids, EPC solenoid, and black plastic tab (7H141). Be careful not to

incorrectly hook up the solenoids to the wiring harness or transmission damage could occur. See
the CPD drawing below for details. The following shows you the torque sequence for the main
control bolts.

IMPORTANT: Re-install and tighten the bolt that secures the shifter linkage if you have removed
the EPC solenoid. Then install the pin and roller. Be sure to verify the shifter still works and you
can remove the key in Park. Turn the key to the on position (DO NOT start the engine) and move
the shifter through the gears, then remove the key. If you cannot remove they key in Park, you
must re-adjust the linkage. This step is not difficult, but it is important.

STEP #17: Install the '96 filter (F6AZ-7A098-A) assembly into it's bore in the main controls.
Regardless of which year transmission you have ('94-'97) you have to install the '96 filter. Apply
fresh ATF with your finger to the filter seal before installing it.

STEP # 18: Install the '96 (or '98) deep sump transmission pan
(F6AZ-7A194-A). NOTE: The '96-'97 T-Birds and Cougars are equipped with the deep sump pan
from the factory. Re-use the original transmission pan gasket ('94-'97), provided it is not ripped or
damaged. It is fairly durable and the '96 pan actually states, "This pan is equipped with a reusable gasket". Bolt up the pan using the original 14, 10mm bolts. Tighten the pan bolts up to 120
in.-lbs. of torque. IMPORTANT: If you have a cork style gasket instead of the factory gasket, it is
highly recommended you upgrade to the p.n. F2VY-7A191-A. This is also the p.n. for the gasket
in case you rip or damage your re-usable one.

STEP # 19: Re-install the torque converter drain plug and torque it to 22 lbs-ft. or 30 N-m (this is
hand tight). Then pop the rubber seal in the bell housing shield. NOTE: Re-install the fan wiring
harness at this time.

STEP #20: Fill the transmission through the dip stick tube. Add 6 qts. of MERCON-V ATF (XT-5QM) at first. Hold the brake firmly and start the engine. Move the shifter level through the gears,
stopping at each indent or position. Do not panic if you do not feel the transmission engage into
gear. Stop the engine and add 6 more quarts of MERCON-V ATF to the dip stick tube. Stop again
at 10 qts. and repeat the process listed above. The 4R70W holds 12-13 quarts of ATF fluid, do
not over-fill the transmission. NOTE: If you have an auxiliary transmission cooler, you will require
13-14 quarts of ATF.

STEP #21: Inspect the pan and transmission for leaks. Then carefully lower the vehicle to the
ground. Start the engine and allow the transmission to warm up to normal operating temperature,
listen for strange noises or smells. If you see smoke, do not panic, it is just the ATF burning off of
the exhaust parts. Once the engine has warmed, rev the engine slightly (to activate the pump).
Then move the shifter lever through the gears. Hold each gear for at least one second before
changing to a new indent or position. You should feel the transmission engage each gear followed
by a decrease in engine rpm.

STEP #22: Road test the vehicle. Observe the shifting, firmness of the shifts and rpm of the shift
points. Also check reverse and forward gear characteristics. Accelerate to 45-50 mph and press
the Overdrive "ON/OFF" button located on the shifter handle. Verify that the transmission has
engaged 4th (OD) gear and that the vehicle accelerates properly. Verify you can manually shift
the transmission in the 1-2 and 2-3 positions.

STEP #23: Re-check the clamps on the transmission cooler lines and auxiliary cooler. Check to
make sure you have no leaks, especially under the pan or TC. Verify that your fluid level is correct
in both "Cold" and "Warm" conditions. Enjoy your new upgrades. Be sure to re-check the clamps
and fluid level on a regular basis after you install the modifications listed above. Estimated
installation time 6-7 hours.

Please dispose of the ATF and used parts according to your local and state laws. Clean up any
spilled ATF fluid using proper methods. Animals are attracted to the ATF, and it is very harmful to
them. Wear nitrile gloves if your skin is sensitive to the ATF's properties. Special thanks to Adam
H. for turning the wrenches and Jerry for the modified main controls and technical support.

NOTE: The TCCOA, nor the author assumes responsibility for damaged and/or broken materials
during the installation of the aforementioned parts. This document is solely designed as a
supplement to a Ford Motor Company shop manual.