Beruflich Dokumente
Kultur Dokumente
THE FEED
In the mountains and valleys that stretch across North Africa, theres no
guarantee of a good harvest from year to year. Thats nothing new for
the Berbers. Theyve been farming olives, wheat, vegetables, and fruits
there since before Carthage was founded in 814 BCE. (The name Berber
actually comes from the Roman name for the people: barbarians. In
their own language, Berbers call themselves Amazigh, or Free People.)
In a good year a Berber tribe would grow plenty of food to sustain
themselves. But even in a good year, the farmers learned to look ahead
to the future. What if the next year theres a drought and the harvest is
limited? And what if that happens two years in a row? Or what if, after
a year or two of bad harvests, a hungry neighboring tribe invades and
pillages their food supplies? Those were all common scenarios for the
semi-nomadic Berbers.
by the barRel
Like most people looking to preserve food before the days of refrigeration, the Berbers used what they had on hand: salt, oil, sun. In Tunisia,
smack dab in the middle of Berber land, sun drying has always been the most
important method of preservation. Drying not only preserves, but it also makes the food
weigh less. Should the tribe decide to pack up and move, they could take it with them. The Berbers sun-dried everything: tomatoes, stone fruits, peppers. And to preserve wheat, they would sun-dry couscous.
The basics of making traditional couscous are pretty simple. You take semolina flour and mix it with a bit of salt and
water, rub it together to form tiny balls of dough, and then dry em out. Today, though, most couscous is made with
big, industrialized machines. The whole process can be completed in a couple of hours from start to finish, including
just seven minutes for mixers to form the balls and then a whopping eighteen minutes to dry them in huge rotating
ovens.
There are still a few producers out there making couscous the traditional, slow way that the Berbers would have
made it. The best couscous I know of is made by Majid Mahjoub, himself a descendant of the Berbers, and his company Les Moulins Mahjoub. Mahjoub couscous is mhamsa (hand-made, in Arabic). Using the Razzag variety of wheat
that they grow organically on their own farm, they roll every little ball of couscous by hand, the way its been done
for millennia. For that reason, this couscous is a little bigger than most, and you may notice that it looks a tad less
uniform. Thats a good thing. After the couscous has been shaped, it dries in the sun. That drying doesnt take minutes
or hoursit takes days. All told, a batch of Mahjoub couscous takes about ten days from start to finish.
All that time drying in the sun has a huge impact on flavor.
Its like the difference between bread thats allowed to slowly rise and proof for most of a day versus the stuff thats
baked as quickly as possible. The longer drying time allows the couscous to develop deeper, richer flavor. In essence,
couscous thats produced as quickly as possible tastes like flour while couscous that is made more slowly tastes like
bread. The exact same thing happens with the flavor of traditional pastas that are allowed to dry slowly rather than
being baked as quickly as possible. Mahjoub couscous is wheaty, toasty, nutty, and earthy, with a chewy, firm, toothsome texture. This is no boring grain to be relegated to the corner of the plate and smothered in spices and sauces.
I still remember the first time I tasted Mahjoub couscous. It was a little more than six years ago. The first bite stopped
me in my tracks. I had no idea that couscous could be so delicious. But once I got over the surprise, I went back for
more and more and more. I still always keep a jar or two in my pantry and cook it at least a couple times a month.
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ISSUE # 257
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UP TO
JAN-FEB 2017
When Paul or I teach our new staff orientation (see Secret #49
in Zingermans Guide to Good Leading, Part 4 for more on that)
we tell everyone that our hope is that one or two of them will go
on to become managing partners in the Zingermans Community
of Businesses. That the only criteria needed to qualify to really
because Im in Michigan.
Because I cant get the dishes that my mother made me.
Michigan is diverse, but Ann Arbor doesnt have a huge Korean
community. I guess opening the restaurant is my way of connecting with my roots after I emigrated. Connecting to the
community through food.
To me, authenticity is very personal. What you had with your
grandmother is unique. Tradition is more objective. I can study
it. Both can exist. We dont claim to provide the same authentic experience your family gave you if youre Korean. But
were going to go back and study and understand the history of
Korean cuisine in the dishes.
We interpret tradition in the here and now. Michigan is an
essential part of our identity. Were not looking to transplant
everything and replicate. Were looking to learn from tradition
and see how that works here in Ann Arbor in 2017.
ISSUE # 258
JAN-FEB 2017
Getting Miss Kim going is a big part of our 2020 Vision for the
Zingermans Community of Businesses (if you want to see the
vision, email me at ari@zingermans.com). Making that vision a
reality to establish another local business, led by a passionate
managing partner who will be actively present on site, someone
who cares deeply about the cooking and culture is what it's
all about. There have been many things that have happened
to make that vision a reality over the last ten yearsour staff
ownership program, fostering a diverse community, our focus
on teaching and living positive energy, our emphasis on reducing our environmental footprint and our efforts to raise entry
level wages. Miss Kim is the latest chapter!
food is really delicious, the space looks really great (thank you,
Lori Saginaw!), and we get the chance to learn about Korean
traditions and cooking under Ji Hyes wise and gentle guidance.
As per Ji Hyes vision, this is a chance to put the highest quality
ingredientsthe same kinds of things wed use at the Deli, the
Roadhouse, the Bakehouse, etc. into the mix of traditional
Korean recipes. Pork is coming from Niman Ranch, Black Rice
from Anson Mills, produce where we can (stay tuned for
spring its right around the corner, right?), spices from our
friends at pices de Cru in Montral and much, much more! Oh
yeah, theres a bar with wine and beer, and a whole range of
non-alcoholic drinks. Its all making me hungry right now as I
think about it.
There are also a whole range of new things. Were gonna have
our own take on bibimbopserved in traditional stone bowls
and made with fresh vegetables from local farmers. Well have
a porridge made from black rice and barley that will be topped
with a whole array of mushrooms. Some fresh fish dishes. Salt
and pepper shrimp.
ff in kerrytown
Back in November, on what would turn out to be Ji Hye Kims last free day in a long time, ZingTrain eagerly interviewed her about
what it meant to be a partner of the Zingermans Community of Businesses and opening our newest businessa Korean food restaurant and bar - Miss Kim.
And then stuff just started happening. I realize now that this is
one of those intangible thingsthe power of vision, the power
of being part of a connected community, the power of walking
through an open door when youre ready.
I think to tell the story of any new business from the very beginning, you have to start at the point where someone realized
they wanted to be a business owner. So thats where I will start.
Before coming to Michigan, I helped someone else open their
business. I loved that entire experience. Working with practically no oversight. Creating the systems and an organizational
culture from scratch. I felt a freedom and sense of ownership
of that.
That experience is when I knewI knew I wanted to own my
own business. I suppose thats where this story starts.
We decided that a food cart would be a low risk way of incubating and testing out the business we were proposing. The very
next day, someone told me that their friend was trying to sell a
food cart! So we bought that cart and called it San Street. Then
a local business owner decided that he wanted to open a food
cart courtyardMarks Carts. It came complete with a common
commissary kitchen! And soon we were there!
Turns out that Marks Carts was not just an incubator for our
idea, it was also a great incubator for being part of a community of businesses. We had a shared kitchen space and we had
to self-organize to make it work. Much like at Zingermans, the
company was awesome. We were a group of driven, scrappy,
small business owners working hard to succeed.
The following four years are a bit of a blur. We really pushed
the capacity of that food cart to its limit. We got a second food
cart. We started catering events and doing pop-up dinners.
Zingermans was pretty busy in those four years, too.
When we all emerged from those four whirlwind years,
Zingermans had a much more formal and well-articulated Path
to Partnership and I was ready to get on it.
Becoming a partner at Zingermans is an interesting process. People have repeatedly asked me, Did they make you
jump through a lot of hoops? My response: Whos they?
Its a very well designed process. Its flexible. It allowed me
to do things at my own pace, which was important for me. It
allowed me the time I needed to explore. It allowed me the
space I needed to articulate the answers to Who is this group
that I am going to be a part of? What is their culture? How do
they operate?
And I got my answers. I held my own and did not go forward
with each step in the process until I was ready. While I was on
the Path to Partnership, I saw our organization from an entirely
different perspective. I got to know Zingermans (and myself!) at
every level. Everyone offered to help. Everyone was on my side.
And everyone was recruiting and advocating for even more
people to be on my side. The organization was peppered with
people proudly sporting San Street t-shirts!
The summary? The Path to Partnership process itself is the best
representation of what it means to be a partner at Zingermans.
Its truly well designed.
MISSKIMANNARBOR.COM
ISSUE # 257
JAN-FEB 2017
januAry
& FebRUarY
ONLy!
Order whatever youd like warm pot pies for your family gathering on Sunday, a Deli Sandwich Basket for
your office the following week, and anything else you have in mind, and youll get half off the lesser order.
This offer is good for orders that are picked up or delivered from January through the end of February, so call
and order as many times as youd like!
This offer cannot be combined with other discounts. Only valid for orders from Zingermans Catering.
Discount will not be applied to equipment rentals or service staff. Service fees for events will be based on non-discounted totals.
Its Pot Pie season at Zingermans Catering! Weve combined the warm, buttery goodness of our housemade Zingermans Deli Pot Pies with the
crowd-pleasing convenience of our bag lunches to create the ultimate winter feast for your officeZingermans Catering Pot Pie Bag Lunches.
Pick from a bevy of individual pot piestheres a flavor for every palette! Each pie will be sent hot, with a tossed green salad, balsamic vinaigrette,
a mini brownie, napkin and utensils. All this for only $17.50 each!
Free-range chicken hand-picked off the bone and blended with big
chunks of carrots, celery, potatoes, onions and herbs. Wrapped in
a handmade butter crust. Its the perfect lazy cook winter meal; its
warm, filling, and easy as pie.
(Vegetarian selection!)
$10.99 Each
2016 DSE INC.
ISSUE # 258
JAN-FEB 2017
January
JANUARY
Aleppey Turmeric
Turmeric is getting lots of press these days when it comes
to health issuesit contains lots of curcumin which is being
credited for helping cure all sorts of ailments. Antiseptic, anti
inflammatory, antibacterialit seems to be the magic cure for
nearly everything. In the meantime, its of high import to me
because of the role it plays in the kitchen. Turmerics bright
yellow color and subtle but still significant flavor are only
lightly used in most American cooking. But its a long time
superstar in the cooking of much of the rest of the world. This
turmeric is from what the West generally refers to as Aleppey,
or as its known in India as Alppuzha, in the Kerala district.
Turmeric from Aleppey has twice the volatile oils of less costly offerings. As always, there are lower cost alternatives but...
we get what we pay for. What the folks at pices de Cru have
tracked down for us is some of the best around. Turmeric
is in the ginger family and it has a slight hint of ginger in its
flavor and aroma, along with a bright citrus scent, and a touch
of earthiness. Its a hugely important addition to many curry
blends, as well as North African tagines, masalas and other
magical mixes. I like it in fish or seafood stews (makes me
hungry just thinking about it vegetables, pieces of fresh
fish, fresh shrimp or scallops simmered in a bright yellow
turmeric-scented sauce).
FEBRUARY
February
Korean Chiles
As you likely know, I have a deep passion for traditional food.
Im always about going back to the old ways, to tracking back
recipes to earlier eras, studying cultures and cuisines to peel
off layers of modern meddling. But the funny thing, history
major that I am, is that if one goes far enough back, we often
find that ingredients that are currently rock solid staples
of many traditional cuisines were not always present in the
cooking of their country. There were not always potatoes in
Ireland; North America had no bacon, beef or cheese; Italy
had no tomatoes; Hungary had no paprika; France had no
chocolate; no one but the Ethiopians enjoyed coffee! And
Koreaknown around the world for the spiciness of its traditional cookinghad no chiles!
Of course, today... all of those realities are ancient history.
Culinary historians seem to place chiles' arrival on the Korean
peninsula to sometime around the 15th century. Ji Hye Kim,
managing partner at Miss Kim, our new Korean restaurant
in Kerrytown (see p. 3) said, Arriving in Korea only a few
centuries ago, chiles have a fairly shorter history in Korean
cuisine (remember, Korean history spans over 5,000 years),
but Koreans really took a liking to it. We were already into
pungent flavors of garlic and ginger, we were already very
fond of anything fermented, and chilies fit right in. Not all
Korean food is spicy, but chiles do reserve a special place
in Korean cuisine. And they are featured prominently in the
dishes at Miss Kim.
These special chiles have only recently arrived from Korea
to pices de Cru in Quebec. The cultivar is a hybrid with no
particular name, one theyve developed to grow large and
somewhat spicy. The Korean pepper is grown by a family company thats evolved a great deal during its 30 years in business
(what a coincidence!). Their quest to make ever-better kimchi
led them to grow and process their own chili powder. Soon,
the Kim family was surprised to find they had reached a rarely
attained level of quality, and started selling the chili powder,
too! It is grown around Cheongsong, a well-known pepper
growing region in the East.
January
Our truffle case will be lovingly overflowing with confections of all kinds,
ready for your sweetheart. Come visit
us in the Next Door chocolate corner,
where well craft your dream box!
Zingerman's Portuguese
Sardines
now $5.35, was $7.99/tin
These coveted Portuguese
pilchards have a deep flavor softened by olive oil.
Melt-in-your-mouth tender,
they're delicious as-is, in a
dish of pasta or on a slice
of crusty bread topped with
good olive oil, a squeeze of
lemon, a sprinkle of black
pepper and a pinch of sea
salt. Also, check out the awesome artwork on the box!
drink of
the month
January
Ultimate Indulgence
$4.75/cup
Rich and decadent chocolate
mocha made with real salted
caramel sauce, served with
whipped cream and a Bquet
caramel chew on the side.
VALENTINES CHOCOLATES
F ROM ZINGERMANS DELI
Fran's Salt Caramels Valentines Day
Chocolat Moderne Chocolate Covered
A perennial favorite here at Chocolate Dipped
Zingermans. Copper kettle cooked
Strawberries and
Cherries
caramels, dipped in either dark chocolate and topped with grey salt or milk Chocolate Covered
Amarena, mon amour! Joan from
chocolate and smoked salt.
Chocolat Moderne specifically selects
MarshmalLows
Italian Amarena cherries for their
Available for pre-order! Call 734-663- pleasantly tart flavor; they plump up
Custom Box of
5282 to pick up at Zingermans Next beautifully during a bath of vodka
syrup before being sealed up in a
Door 2/13 & 2/14.
Chocolates
february
Mussels in Escabeche
february
Chocolat Moderne
Kama Sutra
$3.75/each
Thick and velvety drinking
chocolate inspired by the
warming spices of India.
Featuring dark Valrhona
chocolate, cardamom and
clove blended perfectly with
coconut oil.
January
february
JereBear's Smeatheart!
$18.99/each
When we brought in Wagshal's Montreal style smoked brisket, Jeremiah master of configuring creative, delicious
sandwiches knew he had an incredible ingredient on his
hands. The smoky, almost-butter-like-tender beef pairs with
scallion cream cheese, roasted red peppers, and a small
amount of honey on a toasted onion roll to make a richly
sweet and spicy meal!
ISSUE # 257
JAN-FEB 2017
After completing Zingermans Guide to Good Leading, Part 4; A Lapsed Anarchists Approach to the Power of Beliefs in Business this summer, I've decided to take a turn back to food writing for a
while. The next book will be a collection of essays taken from 200+ issues of the newsletter, pieces that were written and put in print over the last thirty years. The working title is, as weve been
saying since we opened the Delis doors in 1982, You Really Can Taste the Difference.
In working on them, I decided not to do any big editing. Rather, we made the call to leave them essentially as they were when I originally wrote them. Given that might have been five, eight,
eighteen or thirty years ago... you can imagine how hard it is for me not to want to start them over, improve them; to do more research, refine the writing, edit out errors, make them current.
But... I realized in starting the work that compiling these essays as they were in the moment they were written is in itself of interest. Because our work here at Zingermans has been such a big
piece of the progress of the food scene in the U.S., it makes sense to let them stand as historical documents. Because each has been essentially left alone, imperfect as it was, and now still is,
helps shine a light on where the food world in general was when I wrote it. It shows, too, what was happening in my own head, what I was struggling with or super excited about. Having just
finished reading Anne Zimmermans very fine biography of M.F.K. Fisher, I can say with a pretty high degree of confidence that while each piece will, of course, be somewhat out of date, like any
historical document, it's "out-of-dateness" makes it as interesting as whats actually in it.
For me, fear comes in two forms, both of which work their way
into my mind on a regular basis. Im rarely consciously aware
of them when they start, but both pay me visits pretty regularly.
(In fact, I fear there might be more than two forms, but I havent
thought of them yet.) First, and easiest to own up to, theres the
sort of fear thats well founded, and of obvious value in living in
a safe and healthy way. Stuff like Im afraid to stick my hand in
a fire or Im afraid that if I dont pay attention when Im driving I could crash. Or in a work context things like, If we dont
taste test the food we prepare and serve constantly, Im afraid
that our product quality is likely to suffer. Being fearless in the
face of issues like these would, its safe to say, be sort of stupid.
Which is why Ive come to look at these as good fears.
Then theres the other, less desirable, form of fear that regularly
rises up inside my brain and my body. While on the surface this
fear feels much like the other above, ultimately, its actually on
the opposite end of the emotional spectrum from those first,
well-founded fears; its fear that limits me, fear that leads to
feelings that often hold me back from doing what I need to do.
In honesty, Im usually actually afraid to even admit to having
these fears in the first place. But hey, the truth is that, like it or
not, Ive got em. Rather than helping me stay safe, these fears
keep me from doing what I need to do; if I let em get the better
of me, I end up enhancing the status quo instead of challenging
it and changing it, hopefully for the better.
There are a thousand things that fall into this second category;
progress comes for me from tackling them in manageable
bites, usually one or two at a time. Which is why I decided to
get down to it and actually put fingers to fret board and write
something about African American cooking. Lord knows Ive
been thinking about it long enoughthough I dont like to admit
it, the second sort of fear has held me back. The truth of the
matterlet me get it over withis that I have a pretty deep hesitation in writing about African American cooking. Im not an
African American. And, because its not my heritage, I have this
fear of showing disrespect for African American culture, a feeling that I should never presume to know what I havent lived, a
fear thats kept me away from doing the right thing, from doing
the writing I know that I need to do.
Fear, though, is only the negative part of the picture. Instead
of contributing to people staying comfortably, if often unconsciously, in the status quo of separation and stress that most of
us have become so accustomed to around these issues, I want to
build communication and positive connection. I want to bring
people together over stuff that they currently avoid, and to do
it in ways that might in some small day-to-day delivery, make a
positive difference in our community. My hope is, ultimately, to
help to close gaps, by providing a chance for people to connect
over coffee, cornmeal and cake.
The truth is, I guess, that this vision has been working pretty
well when I look back on all the writing and teaching work Ive
done over the years here at Zingermans. This subjectfood,
race and African American culture, arising as it does out of the
horrors of slavery, segregation and the violence surrounding
the Civil Rights Movementjust feels a lot more loaded than
most. But the truth is, I think, that the subject is only loaded
because of the fearmy own and, although I could just be projecting, others as well. And the best way I know to off-load that
loadedness is to get the topic out there in the open, to talk, to
teach, to make it all real. And to get started on the road to making the vision above a reality, Ive got to get over the fears, the
social taboos, the worry about what others will say and my clear
lack of genetic credentials and... just do it.
As I pondered this problem I realized the truth is that Id had
pretty similar, if less loaded, sorts of hesitations when it came
to writing about Italian, Spanish, or French foods for the first
time. Im not from any of those places and Ive got a ton more
study to do on each of those subjectsthe learning never ends,
so its hard to feel like I really know enough to put something
ISSUE # 258
JAN-FEB 2017
Learning
Backing up a bit, let me share one of my big early insights about
Jewish cooking, because its really helped to inform my understanding of African American foodways. Contrary to what I
believed growing up in Chicago, the truth of the matter is that
there isnt really any such thing as a singular Jewish food. If
there had been the way Id assumed, the Jewish cooking of the
world would have all revolved around matzo ball soup, chopped
liver, potato latkes, bagels and cream cheese and all that sort
of stuff. Boy, was I off basewhat Id assumed to be THE Jewish
foods were, in truth, just the particular style of Jewish food that
Id grown up with in a Midwestern family with Polish-, Lithuanianand Russian-Jewish roots. Much to my surprise, I discovered that
there are actually hundreds of other versions of Jewish cooking,
from places as far afield as Kazakhstan, Calcutta and Curacao.
What I came to understand (as others had long ago figured out), is
that Jewish cooking isnt tied to any particular dish, but rather to
a) the dietary rules of keeping kosher (dictated in the Bible and
expanded upon in the Talmud) + b) local ingredients, + c) cooking techniques and holiday traditions particular to countries in
which Jewish people were living.
With that in mind, I think the first big "a-ha" on the subject at
hand here was that there isnt really simple, singular African
American cooking any more than there is a Jewish one. I checked
in with others I respect to get their sense of this and heard much
the same thing. I asked Adrian Miller, whos been studying this
stuff for many years now, how he described African American
cooking: Well, he said, I usually tell people its just African
heritage cooking in the US, melding ingredients and cooking
from West African, Native American and European traditions.
Jessica Harris, African American culinary historian and a professor at New York's Queens College, had similar thoughts. She did,
however point out that, while there may not be a singular African
American style of cooking, Some things do bind us: okra, eating
leafy greens and drinking the potlikker, use of hot sauces and
peppers are pretty much universally prized in African American
cooking. In terms of the interplay of black and white, John T.
Edge, food writer extraordinaire and director of the Southern
Foodways Alliance (check out the website at southernfoodways.com) spoke poetically, but powerfully (as hes so skilled at
doing), and appropriately brought politics into play: I think its
important to acknowledge that the Souths fitful dance of black
and white has marked our food culture in significant ways. For
the longest time, that BASTARD Jim Crow dictated who could
sit down to dinner with whom. The thing wasour foods were
always integrated. Black-eyed peas and okra from West Africa
and the chess pies and puddings of Anglo-Saxon tradition have
long shared the same menu.
I agree with all three. Ive come to focus on a trio of broad components of what we know as African American food: the foods
ISSUE # 257
JAN-FEB 2017
vegetable based. When meat was used it was used sparingly and
mostly as a seasoninga bit of pork fat or chicken bones used to
season one pot stews, rices, quick breads or other dishesmuch
as it is in much of the Mediterranean. The richer dishes we all
know today became everyday items only when folks could afford
them after economic success or agricultural change made them
more affordable. Biscuits, for instance, were once a Sunday treat,
but became everyday food when inexpensive soft wheat flour
became available with the advent of mechanized mills.
The fourth geographic grouping Adrian identified is the cooking
of the Chesapeake Bay. This one, he pointed out, has dropped
off in prominence because weve overeaten the Chesapeake Bay
foods. But forty or fifty years ago, it was very important. The
excellent reputation for foods like terrapin, beaten biscuits,
oysters, and canvasback duck were all attributed to the culinary
achievement of black cooks.
Those four likely make up the main streams of African American
foodways, but I like to look, too, at the obscurities around the
edges, the little discussed but nevertheless interesting iterations
of cooking and culture. All of which makes me take into account
things like the cooking and influence of black cowboysyou
didnt see them on too many old TV shows, but roughly one in
five cowboys were African Americans. (See Robb Walshs The Texas
Cowboy Book for more on this subject). Similarly there are the
foodways of the Black SeminolesAfrican Americans who lived
with the Seminole Indian tribes in Florida. There are the black
homesteaders who headed out west, like the folks in Dearfield,
Colorado, where living was so rough that their version of African
American cooking was, fried potatoes for breakfast, boiled potatoes for lunch and more potatoes for dinner. Looking ahead, I
wonder how modern day influence of the significant influx of new
African immigrants coming from Somalia, Nigeria, Uganda, Kenya,
Eritrea, and Ethiopia will be assimilated into the traditions that
African Americans have established over the last four centuries.
A while back I spoke at the JCC here in town on the subject of
Jewish cooking. I was telling stories of various Jewish foods
and their origins, when a woman in the audience, stopped me
and yelled out rather disdainfully, Look, just because its made
by Jews doesnt mean its Jewish food. In a way I suppose shes
kind of correct, but then again, if Jews prepare a particular dish
in the same way over a long period of time, do those not sort of
become Jewish foods too? In my study of southern Jewish cooking, one woman I talked to in Charleston, South Carolina told me
laughingly that all I needed to know on the subject was that down
South, Jewish food meant serving lox and bagels with grits. It
all comes together African American, Jewish, Native American,
and white European, in this snippet of folk history from Charles
Joyners very fine work, Shared Traditions: Perhaps the Jews of
Georgetown (South Carolina) were more like the Jewish family in
Anniston, Alabama, who recalled their, favorite Shabbos meal at
the dawn of the twentieth century as oyster stew; steak, ham or
fried chicken; Mamas homemade biscuits and corn bread, too;
Hoppin John... and sweet potato pie for dessert. (See Marcie
Ferris excellent book, Matzo Ball Gumbo for much more on the
subject of southern Jewish cooking.)
ISSUE # 258
JAN-FEB 2017
and then cooked on 16th century slave ships soon to sail west from
Africa; the fear that would likely have accompanied meals cooked in
slave camps in Africa and then on board the boats; the first food that
newly arrived Africans might have experienced in North America;
the experience of West African slaves brought here to teach white
slaveholders how to build systems for growing rice in 17th century
South Carolina; cookbooks in South Carolina kitchens that slave
cooks couldnt be taught read; the blending of all those native, new
and African ingredients in plantation kitchens; people like Malinda
Russell taking their cooking out into the world; people I know here
in Ann Arbor and people Ive met around the country whove shared
family stories and recipes. Out of all of all of those we form a reality of, in this case, African American cooking, a cooking thats about
very real people, hard times and good times, shared learnings, and
very real, very flavorful food.
One recipe in The Historical Cookbook, called Cornbread Harriet
Tubman; Our Aunt Harriet's Favorite Dish, sort of pulls the whole
thing together in my mind. The actual recipe isnt particularly noteworthy in itselfits cornbread made with salt pork, soured milk
and a bit of brown sugar. But the head notes, written by Vivian
Carter Mason who grew up knowing Harriet Tubman, are fascinating. Theyre all about fear, and food. We shivered, as we heard the
sound of horses hoofs, fearing the men searching the woods and
highways for black Harriet and her runaways." she wrote. "That they
never caught up with her was always the triumphant ending of a
fearful and frightening recital of days full of danger and suffering.
Then mother would call us to dinner, and as the lamps cast a bright
light on the huge kitchen, with the teaming bowls of rich soup and
the crisp cornbread piled high, it was not hard to imagine that in
the darkness outside someone was still searching for Harriet and
would take us too. Fear, food, race, art and the future, all there in
one paragraph about people and a plate of cornbread from the past.
What I hope is that by writing and teaching, by cooking and caring,
we will successfully bring more light, more openness to the African
American experience of cooking and foodways. That well be able
to both teach history, but also to personalize, humanize and rehumanize in ways that are meaningful to most everyone whos interested. And, in the process, that well be able to break down the
fears that inhibit connection; and through all of that help to make
the understanding of, respect for and knowing consumption of
African American foodways so normal in this area that no one will
ever remember a time it wasnt that way. With that in mind, I invite
everyone to zoom in on the personal culinary and cultural details in
the way that one of the countrys great writers, Zora Neal Hurston.,
did early in the 20th century, (as described in Zora Neale Hurston; A
History of Southern Life): "(Zora) was an expert witness to her time,
author Tiffany Ruby Patterson wrote. She imagined, as every great
artist does; but she also made it her business to see, hear, and write
as an ethnographer doesin detail, in depth, and by bringing to bear
a deep understanding of human complexity.
Finally, in the context of creating vision of a better tomorrow, that
imagination of the possible, that Bayles and Orland wrote about in
Art and Fear, I come back to a few sentences that Sue Bailey Thurman
put down in her introduction to the Historical Cookbook of American
Negro. Referring to the book and the people mentioned itboth
those who were famous and those were known to barely anyone
other than their families and friendsThose included were
selected as symbols of the past who sought only to preserve
the life of the future, knowing that the future must be
guaranteed in the present. We are their future.
#20
To learn more about the Music Maker Relief Foundation and the stories of their musicians, visit
www.musicmaker.org.
Please visit www.events.zingermanscommunity.com to purchase tickets for the African American Foodways Special
Dinner, #204, at Zingermans Roadhouse on Tuesday, January 17th.
I have served on the Music Maker advisory board since 2009. The Executive Director, Tim Duffy, is a man who I can also personally thank for my own career after having released several albums
on Music Maker label. The artists that have worked with Music Maker are incredible and thanks to Tim and Denise they have been documented in the history books for future generations to
discover. Music Maker Relief Foundation is filled with many wonderful and talented personalities. Each of them had their own ways of talking about food. John Dee Holeman would take a drink
of moonshine and say, Dear God, this stuff here could knock the soda out of a biscuit without breaking the crust.
Music and the Blues go hand in hand because they are both meant for the celebration of life! We as a community and a diverse culture cannot help but incorporate the sounds and the flavors
of good cooking. Thats why its called Soul Food, down home cookin, and comfort food. You dont just cook the food. You have to throw down in the kitchen make a toe jump in its boot,
you dip your toenail in it! These are the ways you feel when youve made a meal that everyone can enjoy! Its a memorable experience!
My mother used to tell me growing up at the breakfast table, Fill up because thats all you get 'til dinner, meant getting that little extra slice of bacon so that you could do your chores with
all the fuel you needed to get through the day. Dinner is for putting you to bed so you can wake and do all over again. Thats why you have to put a little extra butter, that little bit of crackin
goodness that may not be good for you, but it feels so good when you lay your head down. Thats groanin goodness!
The Music Maker Relief Foundation Fundraiser dinner will be a special night because it will be celebrating the food and music flavors of Southern culture. As the food must reflect the culture,
the music must demonstrate the many ways that we talk about the food. The meal has been curated by the folks at Zingermans Roadhouse and will be incorporating the musical delicacies of
Music Makers most recent compilation, Biscuits for Your Outside Man. From Algia Mae Hintons sly title track to George Higgs Greasy Greens, Music Maker is serving a whole lot of great
music as Zingermans throws down in the kitchen for a night to remember!
ISSUE # 257
JAN-FEB 2017
Available at Zingermans
Bakehouse, Roadhouse
& Delicatessen
January
ROSEMARY BAGUETTES 12/30-1/1
Our popular French baguettes with addition of aromatic fresh rosemary. A perfect
pairing with olive oil or Zingerman's Creamery Fresh Goat Cheese.
CRAQUELIN 1/6-1/8
The national bread of Belgiumthis beautiful, golden pan loaf of buttery brioche bread rolled up with fresh orange zest and sugar cubes soaked in Grand
Marnier. A thick slice lightly toasted with a cup of tea would be pure delight any
time of day.
CINN-OH-MAN 1/6-1/8
Making two appearances this month to satisfy fans! This breakfast pastry has
intense cinnamon flavor throughout its flaky layers of buttery croissant dough,
then it's covered with cinnamon butter and glazed in cinnamon and vanilla.
CINN-OH-MAN 1/27-1/29
100% organic whole wheat flour, local buttermilk, Michigan honey and lots of
toasted sunflower seeds. This bread is so special that Frank, managing parter of
Zingerman's Bakehouse, named it after his daughter. Makes great toast or a peanut
butter banana sandwich.
A chewy round of our Paesano bread with savory green olives. Makes an instant
appetizer.
Chewy traditional Jewish rye with peppery chernushka seeds. This one definitely
has a following.
february
10
February
ISSUE # 258
JAN-FEB 2017
No food coloring or plastic dolls, just buttery layers of puff pastry filled with our
own almond frangipane. Each cake is baked with one whole almond inside-get the
lucky slice and youre crowned king (or queen) of your Mardi Gras party!
PACZKI 2/28
This year we're offering these five flavorful filling choices: raspberry jam, lemon
cream, sweet ricotta, chocolate pudding, and rose hip jam.
January
february
Only Zingerman's Bakehouse is making this special dessert! Named after Rig Jancsi [ree-go yanCHEE] (1858-1927), a famous Hungarian violinist,
this regal torte is made with two light layers of
chocolate chestnut sponge cake, filled with rumspiked, chestnut whipped cream, iced with a thin
layer of apricot glaze and finished with rich dark
chocolate ganache.
winter flavors
are here!
One of our very favorite things about this
time of year is the cobblers, pies, crisps,
and various other piping hot desserts that help to take our minds
off the shortness of the days
and the coldness of the outdoors. Theyre also perfect
with our winter-only gelato
flavors! Over the years weve
honed a list of flavors we
think offer the very best of
this season, and were super
excited to introduce a new
one to the lineup: GRAPEFRUIT
SORBET!
January
february
Pere Marquette is an homage to the classic French St. Felicien. We start with the
Winter Flavors:
Grapefruit Sorbet
Rocky Ride Gelato
Chocolate Heat Gelato
Cherry Chocolate
Chip Sorbet
January
February
Love is in the air, and if you're not careful, you might be struck by Cupid's Bow!
Or you could preemptively drink one at
the Coffee Company. Vanilla and rose
water mix in this amazing latte that will
stay close to your heart all February long!
Cupids Bow
Spicy Mocha
best cows milk we can source. Conditioning this cheese inside a terracotta crock develops a
luscious texture that continues to develop over time, eventually becoming almost completely
liquid and ridiculously rich. There are plenty of things you can do with this cheese, but our
favorite is to put in on a table with some baguette, dust its top with a little bit of table sugar,
hit it with a brulee torch, and then just let nature take its course.
January
February
Uganda
Rwenzori Mountains
The Bakonzo tribe grows their coffee under
the shade of banana trees along side cassava, maize, beans, and groundnuts to
diversify income. The average smallholder
farmer works about two acres of land and
processing/quality control is tightly regulated. Ripe cherries are hand picked and
the beans are washed using hand pulpers.
We liked this coffee for its smooth, cocoalike body and lovely balance.
Daterra Estate
ISSUE # 257
JAN-FEB 2017
11
Cold Weather
Recipes from
Cornman
Farms
We are sharing some delicious ways to keep warm this winter with two
of our signature recipes, perfect for enjoying by a nice, cozy fire.
Ingredients:
Directions:
20 juniper berries
Ingredients:
Directions:
250 g squash:
(Pennsylvania Dutch
Crookneck)
50 g shallots
15 g garlic
2 cinnamon sticks
300 g cream
Zest of 1 lemon
Diplomatico Reserva Rum
(or any other aged rum)
50 g milk
If you have the time, our bartenders suggest leaving the spices in the cider and
refrigerating overnight. Then, strain and
heat before serving the next day.
50 g butter
1 g Tellicherry Pepper
0.5 g bayleaf
25 g honey
50 g apple
4 g salt
Serves 20-25
chocolate covered
12
ISSUE # 258
JAN-FEB 2017
2017 TOURS
MAY
MAY-JUN
SEPT-OCT
8-18
27-4
30-9
Budapest
& Tokaj,
Hungary
Catalonia
& Barcelona,
Spain
Tuscany,
Italy
#204
Comparative Cupping
Brewing Methods
Sample coffees from Africa, Central and South Americas, and the
Asian Pacific. We will taste and evaluate these coffees using the
techniques and tools used by professional tasters. This is an eyeopening introduction to the world of coffee.
Doughnuts 2.0
Pot Pies
Coffeecake Craft
Well lead you in making really great chicken pot pie from scratch, including the
making the flaky pie crust, cooking the
velout sauce, assembling the aromatic
filling and shaping the pies. Join in on the
hands-on fun and learn to make a classic
comfort food.
La Vecchia Dispensa
Balsamic Tasting
January 18, 6-7:30pm, $35/person
Working just off the historic square in the center of the
old town of Castelvetro, southwest of Modena, Italy,
Roberta Pelloni and her husband Marino Tintori make a
range of fantastic vinegars. For the first time, their son
Simone from La Vecchia Dispensa, will join us for an evening to share the history and taste of his family's balsamics. In the words of Marino, the key to great Balsamico
is balance. So please come for this special evening of
beautifully balanced balsamic.
Farm Tours,
Special Dinners
and Classes
Several times a month, we
open our doors to welcome 8540 Island Lake Road,
Dexter
you to the Cornman Farms
734.619.8100
Experience. We offer farmcornmanfarms.com
to-fork dinners, cocktail and
cooking classes, and farm tours.
A Taste of Italy
at Cornman Farms
January 12, 2017, $125
ISSUE # 257
JAN-FEB 2017
13
44
BUILDING A H
The piece below is excerpted from my most recent book, Zingermans Guide to Good
Leading, Part 4: A Lapsed Anarchists Approach to the Power of Beliefs in Business.
While the main focus of the book is, as per its title, beliefs, there are also two essays in
it on the subject of hope,and how important it is to creating a healthy organization.
As we were putting together the outline of this January-February issue of Zingermans News, the election happened. Without getting into the details of how you feel about it or who you voted for, I dont think its a stretch to say that this is an important time
to find some ways to build hope for everyone. If hope matters as much as it does in our individual lives, and in our organizations,
it only follows that it matters just as much in our communities and our countries. Its kind of straightforward. If half of the people
at Zingermans had low hope for the future, we would NOT do well as a business. If half the people in our community or in the
country have low hope, then the community and the country wont do well either. While one half of a sinking ship may be raised
higher out of the water for a short period of time as the other half goes under, its only a matter of time before the whole thing is
under water.
With that in mind, it seemed like an important and appropriate time to run one of the hope essays from the book in the newsletter. Regardless of what were personally feeling, its clear that we will all do best only when weve successfully helped build hope
for as broad a group of peopleof all ages, classes, races, genders, musical genres and cooking stylesas we can. Its only a generally hopeful setting, one in which we each help show each other a more positive future, talk about how everyone can get to that
future; show how everyones efforts matter, and how each of them matter as a human being regardless of what they do or dont
do every day; and how they all fit together into something greater than any of us can be on our own only when thats happening
are we all likely to go up and grow together.
The longer version of this essaySecret #44, Building a Hopeful Business is in Part 4 of the book. (The essay that follows it in the
book, Secret #45, A Six-Pointed Hope Star continues the conversation.) Im happy to dialogue with anyone interested, and to
learn more from your experiences and insights. My email is ari@zingermans.com.
People reflect regularly about what they hope will, or wont, happen. At
times, they talk about being hopeful, holding out hope, or hoping
against hope. But discussion about the impact that havingor not
havinghope has in business doesnt seem to come up a lot. I believe
thats a mistakewithout a hopeful attitude, very little positive, proactive work will happen. The more Ive studied the subject, the more
Ive talked about it with others, and the more Ive paid attention, the
more I see how much hope impacts everything we do.
Hope, in my metaphysical metaphor, is the sun. Hopefulness is a consistent characteristic of successful people and organizations. It helps
the plants that grow from the roots of our beliefs to reach upward.
Low hope, on the other hand, is a characteristic of struggling (or often
outright failing) businesses. Their organizational sun is blacked
outenergy is exhausted, and work quality suffers significantly when
employees are without hope.
I hope that sharing the thoughts that follow will be of value. I know
that working on this essay has already helped me. Im far more mindful of hope, and how I handle it, than I have ever been before. As
anarchist Peter Kropotkin once said, It is always hope... which makes
revolutions.
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Im sure there was some merit to the managers concerns about the
employees performance that led him to respond so critically. The
problem isnt that his reasons for being critical were wrongits
just that hed presented things in such a way as to scare the staff
member off of ever sharing an inspirational idea again. While the
manager talked, the staffer started looking down to the floor,
shifting his feet back and forth, like a kid getting lectured by an
angry parent. I can imagine that he was feeling both frustrated, as
if hed failed, and angry that the wisdom in his words wasnt being
recognized. Hurt that his idea for improvement was being rejected.
I know how I feltI was embarrassed.
In her book Confidence, Rosabeth Moss Kanter remarks, A loss is
a crossroads, not a cliff. Winners make mistakes and encounter
troubles all the time without falling off the edge. How problems
are dealt with shapes whether they are just an interruption or
a sign of impending doom, whether winners are resilient or are
stuck in increasingly ineffective behavior. In this case, things sort
of worked out. The employee had the courage to come talk to me
about what had happened. I tried, per the principles of Servant
HOPE HELPS
Not sure that this emphasis on hope actually makes a difference?
Ask around. I doubt that youll find a single person whos doing
great work, in any area of activity, whos not already hopeful about
the future. Even when difficult days cloud their horizon, hope soon
reappears. Effective leaders are almost always high-hope individuals who have the ability to cultivate hope in others around them,
with energy growing significantly in the process. Its clear to me
that one reason Emma Goldman inspired so many people from the
periphery of society a century ago is that she gave hope to those
whod had so little in their lives.
To paraphrase the old Coke commercial, Things go better with
hope. Snyder reports that:
OPEFUL BUSINESS
[C]hildren and adults who scored higher in hope have: (1) coped
better with injuries, diseases and physical pain; (2) scored higher
in satisfaction, self-esteem, optimism, meaning in life and happiness; (3) performed better in sports; and (4) excelled in academics (elementary to graduate school). What is especially compelling about these hope findings for sports and academics is that
they have occurred beyond the predictions that are caused by
natural abilities. That is to say, hope predicted sports performances even when the participants natural athletic talents were
statistically adjusted for. Similarly, when intelligence was corrected statistically, hope still predicted academic performances.
HOPELESSNESS HURTS
Low hope works in reverse. Its another one of those cycles were
unwittingly a part of. People with low hope perform poorly. And
people who perform poorly start to lose hope. Many of the people
who make up the altogether too large deprived segments of society have, understandably, lost hope. Its hard to have hope when
everything around you feels like its falling apart. Natural Law of
Business #4 says that people do their best work when theyre part
of a great organization. The inverse is equally accurateas Cesar
Chavez, farm worker, civil-rights leader, and founder of the United
Farm Workers, said, in a damaged human habitat, all problems
merge.
Its clear that lowor nolevels of hope in an organization lead
to low energy, subpar service, and little engagement. We can talk
all we want about needed change, but hopeless people are generally listening only to make sure that nothing even worse is about
to happen to them. They slowly start to shut down, to withdraw
from, rather than engage with, the worldthey pull back into their
hard emotional and intellectual shells where, not shockingly, they
feel safer. They may poke their heads out now and again, but
basically, they just cut themselves off from most of the world as
a method of self-protection. They feeland actlike their efforts
are essentially irrelevant. They may well toe our organizational
line in order to avoid problems, but theyll almost never push hard
enough to achieve greatness. Emma Goldman said a century ago,
No one is lazy. They grow hopeless from the misery of their present existence, and give up.
Over the years, Ive come to explain it this way: Lets imagine that
we have an employee who aspires to do something big, but whose
current pace is not going to get them where they want to go. I look
down the hall at the doorway towards which theyre moving. The
low-hope manager shuts them downAt the rate youre going,
youll never make it. Im locking the door. Once the door is locked,
why would the employee keep busting their butt to do anything?
Theyre going to be hurt or angry, shut down, do as little as they
need to. I try to take a different approach: At the rate youre going,
youll never make it. I really want to help you. Are you ready to pick
up the pace? If you do, I think you can make it! They may still not
get there. But at least Im encouraging them to attain the vision of
the future that theyve described. And you know what? They just
might succeed!
When a staff member cant see a better tomorrow in our workplace, when the best they believe they can achieve is to just get
by, hope is hard to have. Writer Bren Brown says, Hopelessness
is dangerous because it leads to feelings of powerlessness. The
inverse is also accuratefeeling like an unempowered part of your
organization (or community or family) leads to feelings of hopelessness. Unfortunately, there are far too many jobs that fall into
that category. Its a vicious cycle. Good people, given little choice,
take bad jobs which over time just brings them down, which
then makes for bad business and, ultimately, a hard life for those
involved. Worse still, hopeless people generally get hired into
hopeless settings, which just reinforces their belief that theres no
hope. But as St. Thomas Aquinas put it, there can be no joy in living
without joy in work. Its an uninspired and ineffective place to be.
Surrounded by low hope, believing that they have no chance to
lead change, people generally get even more depressed and more
alienated with each passing day. Hopelessness becomes a way of
organizational life. People who are hired into a low-hope or hopeless workplace will either quickly resign or eventually lose hope
themselvesits hard to stay upbeat when youre surrounded by
cynicism, despair, and apathy. All of which just takes them further
Hopeless folks, by definition, will give up faster and fail more frequently. As Jos Joaqun Olmedo, both a poet and the president of
Ecuador in the mid-19th century, said, He who does not hope to
win has already lost. In the end, organizations without hope are
dying. No ecosystem can survive without sun.
WE THE PEOPLE
Melvin Parson worked on the night cleaning crew at the Deli a few
years ago. Id seen him once or twice, but we hadnt done any work
together. We connected over a book. Part 1 of this series, actually.
See, we have a standing offer out to everyone who works here at
Zingermans that they can get a copy of any of the volumes in this
series if theyre willing to read it and then make some donation
(however large or small) of time or money to Food Gatherers, the
local food-rescue program. My assistant, Jenny Tubbs, had been
chatting with Melvin one day and encouraged him to take us up
on the offer. A few days later I signed a copy of Part 1 for him. We
didnt talk, though, until one afternoon when I was out running. He
was driving by, saw me, and stopped to say hi out the window.
We chatted for a minute and he introduced me to his friend who
was in the passenger seat. Lora, he told me, was about to open her
own yoga studio.
Although Lora didnt work for us, I thought Id help Melvin help
her by getting her a copy of the book as well. It is, after all, about
enhancing the ecosystem. Showing respect for her also demonstrates respect for him. So, in my effort to live by my when in
doubt, give it out principle (see page 372), I got Lora a copy of the
book. Jenny, whos becoming a bit of a Santa Claus for readers,
delivered it. A bit later Melvin emailed to thank meI gotta tell
you that having your book delivered made her feel really special
and I believe she will take that experience with her in moving forward as it relates to making her yoga students feel special.
Eighteen months later I heard from Melvin again. He wanted to
meet. This time we were sitting at a table at the Deli, not standing by the side of the road. It was the first time Id listened to him
deeply and noticed the nuance of his energy: grounded, interesting, engaged, insightful. I liked being in his presence. I also liked
the project he came to tell me about. We the People Growers
Association in Ypsilanti. In a setting where many people dont have
access to fresh food, where most are three or four generations
removed from growing their own, Melvins small project is making
a difference. As he explains,
We the People is dedicated to using farming to empower people
who lack access to resources and opportunities. We build community through farming. I believe that growing food grows communities. I want to use [urban] farming as a vehicle to create a different
outlook for my community. Last year was my first-ever undertaking
in growing vegetables. I inherited a 3' x 20' raised vegetable garden
that had been tended to by a sweet woman named Verna. Sadly,
Verna passed away last year and somehow I was chosen to grow
vegetables in her stead; mind you I had no experience gardening.
However, I was a gamer, so off I went preparing the soil,
getting my hands dirty and loving every minute of it! I dedicated my first experience with growing food to Verna. This vision
has led me to form We the People Growers Association. I dont just
want to grow food. I want to create a sense of empowerment in
the community and educate its members about food sustainability, nutrition, and other essential skills, which promote a healthy
outlook upon self, and those about you. Our motto is Grow Food
and Get Strong.
I love it. Hope and hard work are making a difference. Melvin
started with one raised bed, not knowing a darned thing about
growing. Today its 14 vegetable and herb beds that are 20 feet long
and about 32 inches wide, tended to by dozens of volunteers, having fun and helping each other and the community. Melvins work
inspires me. Its inspired many others, too. We the People Growers
Association is effectively building hope and seeding positive beliefs
for those who havent had that many of late. Melvins generosity of
spirit brings some much-needed sunlight to a part of town that has
had more than its fair share of darkness over the last few decades.
Its helping people learn the basics of growing their own food, a
skill they can carry with them anywhere they go. Its helping to give
them the sense of satisfaction that comes from hard work you care
about, doing something good for yourself and those around you.
And its sending them home with healthy produce to boot.
Jelly Bean was a great dog who was SafeHouse Centers neighbor for nearly 17 years. Jelly
Bean,recognizable to regular Clark Road drivers and throughout the Zingermans Community,
passed away peacefully in May 2015. She was the beloved Corgi companion of Zingermans
co-founder Ari Weinzweig, and for most of their 17 years together they jogged and
walked past SafeHouse Center. Her loving personality modeled the kind of positive
belief, hope and spirit of generosity that SafeHouse Center is all about.
SafeHouse Center provides a hugely important service to our community, offering free
and confidential shelter and support to Washtenaw county residents or workers impacted
by domestic violence or sexual assault. Services include emergency shelter for those in danger of being hurt or killed, counseling, legal advocacy, support groups, and especially, hope.
Please help us honor Jelly Beans memory and help those whose lives and health are endangered by contributing whatever
you can. Donation boxes will be available throughout Zingerman's Businesses from January through February. Drop a few
coins, leave a few dollars, or write a check to SafeHouse Center/Jelly Bean Jump Up. Every little bit helps! Round up a few
cents at your next purchase, drop a couple coins at the counter, write a check to SafeHouse or go online!
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