Beruflich Dokumente
Kultur Dokumente
(Planinarski vodi)
eljko Musovi
Smashwords
Los Gatos, California USA
ELJKO MUSOVI
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2016.
Uvod
Preface
Opis ture: Krenuti putem izmeu kua prema potoku Smrdan, t.j.
Susjed, a zatim nastaviti jakom stazom prema njegovom izvoru. Iza
izvora, na lijevoj strani suvog korita, nalazi se nagnuta livada koju
treba dijagonalno prei i ui u umu da bi se dolo do staze koja
vodi navie ka proplanku Turija. Kretati se desnim obodom Turije,
prei makadamski put i uputiti se prema umskom putu ispred vas.
Pratite ga sve dok ne primijetite da ide previe udesno (polukrug) i
uzbrdo, a onda produite lijevo prosjeenom stazom drijelom
kroz umu. Kad doete do drveta na kom se nalazi urezana strelica
proite ga i skrenite desno. Penjete brdo (drvea je vidljivo manje
nego u okolini) i dolazite na drugi umski put. Sa tog mjesta se vidi
Kula i njen uveni sipar koji zovemo Kuloar. Do njega stiete
pratei put, a zatim izlazite na greben (lijevo) i hodate kratko kroz
umu (ne)postojeom stazom. Vrh i sipar bi trebalo da budu uvijek
10
11
12
Kula and the notorious scree slope which we call the Couloir. Walk
along the track towards the peak and pay no attention to the sidepaths going to the left (or right).
In the last part of the approach leave the track and simply
walk along the ridge through the forest. There is no conspicuous
trail, but the peak is always visible. Finally, climb the Couloir, find
the best way through or, even better, behind the dwarf pine wood,
then head right, and you will reach the top in a few minutes.
Additional notes: The ascent of Prekornica is rather strenuous and
demands both physical and mental fitness. The trail was marked in
April 2011, but not well and not completely. Also, since than it has
not been maintained at all, and I have to point out that this description depicts the field conditions as they were in the summer of 2011.
It is very likely that the nature has taken its course in the meantime
and vegetation might have covered parts of the trail, particularly in
the area after Turija.
The stream Pitevac, which can be seen on the map, is now
defunct. The terrain from Turija to Kula is completely waterless,
but you can find snow even in August if you walk down the ridge
(W/NW, in the direction of upa) to a number of depressions below
the summit. You do not have to climb back to the top, because there
is a way to the Couloir in the form of a rocky ledge which runs
along the crag.
13
Opis ture: Odmah pored, ili tanije, iza kue poinje vidljiva staza
koja ide istinom, pa kratko kroz umu i preko jedne ravne livade i
polja paprati vodi do umskog puta. Tim putem stiete do katuna
Vio do, a onda se lijevim obodom dola (SZ) upuujete prema prirodnom prolazu. Odatle lijevo, sredinom livade, neto vie od 100
m. Izlazite na put i ispred sebe primjeujete poetak iroke staze
kroz umu. Kao to vidite na karti, to je zapravo podua preica.
14
gaki greben glavnog vrha (prethodna slika). Pratite put sve dok na
lijevoj strani ne primijetite stazu koja ukoso kroz bukovu umu vodi navie do drugog puta, a potom i u katun tirni do. Na raskrsnici je natpis sa imenom katuna na stijeni. (Put produava dalje, ali
se, kao i onaj donji, kojim ste doli, iznenada zavrava u umi.)
Od katuna poinje
pravi uspon. Pravaca ima nekoliko i
ak je par njih neko djelimino oznaio. Meutim, u
dijelu nakon kleka
(na slici lijevo one
su pokrivene velikim smetom) nijedna od staza nije
jasno vidljiva. Zato mi se ini da je najbolje slijediti oznake koje su
vas i dovele do tirnog dola ako nita drugo, makar idu do vrha.
U svakom sluaju, proite pored bukove ume iznad Dola, nastavite
uzbrdo izmeu kleka (malo udesno) i izaite na greben. Dalje ba i
nemate puno izbora pratite greben, a zatim, u tom dijelu, vidljivu
stazu i eto vas nas kraju puta.
Ako je dan lijep, sa Vojnika moete vieti najvei dio Crne
Gore. Oni spremniji, mogu se preko malo teeg terena uputiti ka
istoku i sputiti na prevoj sa kog se lako penje susjedni, Gradni vrh.
Napomene: Planina je najvjerovatnije dobila ime po biljki Hvoinik
/
(lat. Ephdra equisetna), ili po (slovenskoj?) rijei hvoj
/x
(iglice), odnosno
(lat. Pinphyta, Conferae) to je
opta oznaka za bor, jelu i drugo zimzeleno drvee.
Staze na Vojniku (ukljuujui i jednu koja nije opisana u
ovom vodiu do vrha Troglav 1673 m) su oiene i markirane.
Teren je bezvodan, a nakon juna na junoj strani Vojnika
(osim u rupi/vrtai u blizini Gradnog vrha), naalost, nema ni
snijega.
* Ovo je samo jedna od nekoliko mogunosti za uspon na
glavni vrh Vojnika.
15
16
17
Opis ture: Prvi dio ture, do Vio dola, je isti kao i za Vojnik. Dolazite do katuna i preko livade se upuujete ka kolibi na rubu bukove
ume. Prolazite pored nje i slijedite stazu kroz umu, uz vododerinu
prema prevoju Mramorovi (1673). Nakon petnaestak minuta izlazite na travnato-kamenitu padinu vrha Mramorje i nastavljate naporan
uspon do stjenovitog grebena (na slici lijevo od vrha). Ako ne elite
da penjete Mramorje, jednostavno ga proite i izmeu kleka krenite
u pravcu Sedla bez velikog padanja (ili penjanja u povratku). Sa
Sedla odraujete posljednji dio uspona i stiete na Gradni vrh po
(ne samo) mom miljenju, jedan od ljepih u Crnoj Gori. Da biste
se u to i uvjerili, poslije kratkog odmora produite grebenom nanie
i udesno (nema potrebe da penjete prvi vrh na koji naiete) sve dok
vam se ne ukae izvanredan pogled na Gradni vrh i okolinu.
Do Vio dola se moete vratiti starom, pomalo zaraslom (a
u donjem dijelu praktino i nepostojeom) stazom koja sa Sedla ide
kanalom prema jugu i direktno se sputa kroz umu u Do.
Napomena: Izvor koji je ucrtan na karti je samo sezonska pojava
dok na planini ima snijega.
18
Route description: The first part of the route is the same as for Vojnik. When you reach Vio do, go across the field to the cottage at
the edge of beech forest. Pass it from the left side and follow the
conspicuous trail which goes uphill (little to the right), through the
forest, and on to the pass Mramorovi (1673 m). Once you get out of
the forest, you may decide to climb the peak Mramorje (with its
never-ending grassy-rocky slope), descend to Sedlo, and finally
climb Gradni vrh. [vrh = peak] Or, you can only go up to the stony
ridge (left from the main peak; see the picture of Mramorje), walk
around it, and get to Sedlo directly, without a significant height loss
very important on your way back.
Gradni vrh is one of the finest peaks in Montenegro, but
you might not get that impression unless you do the following: rest
for a while at the top and then start descending along the ridge (W).
After a few hundred meters you will have a magnificent view of the
peak you have just come down from.
19
20
21
22
23
24
25
26
27
Additional notes: On the left side of Krnovo polje you will notice
Ostrvica (1836) which reminds people of an enormous whale. It is
the favourite place of paragliding lovers from Niki and also a nice
tour for everyone who is about to start mountaineering. On your
way back from the top, you can descend gradually towards the west
in the direction of Krnovska glavica (1634 m) where you will find
several springs called Krnovska vrela.
Gackove grede
28
Opis ture: Poto je u pitanju relativno kratka tura, automobil moete ostaviti na livadi prije nego (lo) put pone da se sputa prema
katunu tirni do (drugi od nekoliko istoimenih u Crnoj Gori). Ali
opet, ako ne elite da se na kraju dana penjete do njega, ili imate
terensko vozilo, moete se lijevim krakom puta sputiti u sam Do,
parkirati i odatle poeti uspon vrlo loim traktorskim putem oko
brda Leakovci. Nakon toga slijedi ravniji dio i put ide dalje prema
katunima ispod Lole. Trpezarija je na desnoj strani. Birate najlaki
put travnatim padinama ka glavnom, odnosno daljem vrhu. U posljednjem dijelu uspona je potrebno prei jedan kratki, ali otkriveni dio grebena i malo koncentracije nije na odmet.
Kad se odmorite, sa
vrha idete grebenom prema Crvenom
drijelu (JI), a onda
silazite lijevo do izvora Korita. Da bi
se vratili na put kojim ste doli potrebno je savladati krai uspon i proi izmeu Parinoge i Trpezarije.
29
30
TRPEZARIJA 2032 m
Season: April-Novembar
Access: 1. Niki Lukovo Gvozd Krnovo polje
2. Niki Vidrovan Jasenovo polje the road to avnik
Gradaka poljana Potrk Krnovo polje. Drive all the way to the
end of Krnovo polje and Ostrvica (5 km).
Elevation difference: about 630 m, from tirni do.
Route description: Since this is a (relatively) short tour, you can
park the car at the grassy
area before the road starts
going down to tirni do
another place/katun with
this name in Montenegro
(and there are few more).
But if you do not feel like
climbing back to it at the
end of the day, and/or you
have an all-terrain vehicle,
drive to the junction, turn
left, and follow the road.
Eventually, park the car in
the field ~ 50 meters away
from the last house on the right. The trail or, to be precise, a very
rough mountain road, goes uphill around Leakovci and continues
in the direction of Mt Lola. Leave the road before it enters the flatter grassy area on the left, turn towards the south-east, take a good
look at Trpezarija, and chose the best (or the easiest) way to the
summit. There is a short section of the trail, just before the peak,
which is slightly exposed so do not hurry.
After spending some time at the top, proceed along the
ridge towards the pass Crveno drijelo. There turn left and go down
to the spring Korita. In order to get back to the road you have come
by climb the pass between Parinoga (right) and Trpezarija (left) and
then walk in the direction of Leakovci.
31
32
33
Route description: Park the car in tirni do. Follow the road going
around Leakovci and continue in the direction of Lola. Walk past
the hill Parinoga and take a look at a small medieval cemetery.
Turn right at the fork and stay on that road until you climb the hill.
Now leave the road and go straight ahead. Your destination is right
in front of you (E). Pass the first house from the right side and the
next one from the left. In that way you will enter the path leading to
the spring called Osam korita (8 troughs) at the foothill of Vel. Zebalac. The trail to the
saddle starts from the
source (to the left) and
it is well-established.
At the saddle turn right and walk towards
the ridge. Be careful
in the first section of
the ascent, since the
soil is very loose and
slippery. (See the map of Trpezarija for the first part of the route.)
34
Additional notes: The water from Osam korita (actually, the last
two have recently gone out of order) is surely one of the best and
coolest in Montenegro. However, if you decide to climb V. Zebalac
in May or the first half of June, it is very likely that you will not be
able to find the spring, because it is under a couple meters of snow.
If you feel like it and there is enough time, you can also
climb Mali Zebalac (2065).
* In the following description of Lijevno you will find one more
option for climbing Veliki Zebalac.
35
36
Route description: The trailhead is 16 km away from Boan - abljak junction. Actually, it is the beginning of the macadam road
branching off to the right after the pass. It is easily noticed, but you
do not have to start walking from there drive another 1.5 km and
park the car in the field near the first house on the left. The trail/
37
road is marked, and you can follow it all the way to Ljevike bare.
However, when you get there, leave the marked path (because it
leads in the direction of Vel. Zebalac) and head for the upper scree
in the middle of Lijevno. Walk around it from the left and climb the
ridge as shown in the picture on page 36.
* Lijevno can also be reached from the west. See the description of
Veliki Zebalac and the map on page 33.
38
Opis ture: Automobil ostaviti na parkingu ski centra, a onda krenuti makadamom (iza motela). Ako ne elite da idete zaputenom
preicom, pratite put (na razdvajanju desno) sve dok ne izaete na
visoravan Konjsko. Borovnik je pred vama (I). Uivate u etnji, ne
gubei visinu, i za neto vie od sat vremena stiete do podnoja
planine dijelom koristei postojee poljske puteve. Uspon poinjete
lijevom, neto istijom, ali ipak nezgodnom kamenito-klekovitom
stranom, i izlazite na travnati greben. Odatle nastavljate kretanje u
pravcu sljedeeg, malog vrha. Obilazite ga sa lijeve strane i ukoso
se penjete desnom stranom padine ka glavnom vrhu.
Varijanta 2:
Prilaz: Niki Rubea Liverovii Krstovae (lijevo i uzbrdo,
put od kaldrme) Zagrad Konjsko (lijevi krak asfaltnog puta).
Automobil parkirati na livadi pored puta, a zatim slijedi uspon kao
u varijanti 1. (!) Put nije prohodan tokom zimskih mjeseci.
Napomena: Borovnik je idealna planina za upoznavanje terena i
planiranje tura. Pogled sa vrha prema Morakim planinama i Maganiku je naroito lijep tokom proljenih mjeseci.
39
BOROVNIK 1935 m
Season: March-November (or all year round, depending on the
depth and quality of the snow).
Option 1:
Access: Niki Rubea Lukovo Vuje, ski resort
Elevation difference: about 450 m
Route description: Leave the car in the parking lot and then follow
the macadam road which starts immediately behind the Motel. If
you do not want to use a well marked but poorly maintained shortcut (lots of fallen branches), turn right at the junction and stay on
that road until you get out of the forest. Borovnik is in front of you
(E). Walk over the meadows of Konjsko and enjoy the scenery. Do
not lose height; use the gravel track for a short while, and you will
reach the foothills of the mountain in a little more than an hour. The
ascent is usually made up the clearer (but, nevertheless, rocky and
bushy) left side of Borovnik. After reaching the grassy ridge, go
around the first, small peak from the left side and then diagonally
continue towards the main peak, which is immediately behind the
one shown in the picture below.
Option 2:
Access: Niki Rubea Liverovii Krstovae (left and uphill,
the road is paved with cobblestones) Zagrad Konjsko. When
you get out of the forested area, turn left at the fork, and drive on
40
for about a kilometer. Park the car in the field, and then follow the
ascent route described in option 1.
41
42
43
44
45
46
of Ilijin vrh towards the east. If you take a look at the map, you will
see two options for climbing this peak: left and right. However, the
one which starts from the lower pass is perhaps a bit easier and, in
my opinion, better.
47
48
Additional note: Another way to climb Stoac is from Manito jezero. The route is as follows: Bara left from Orlojevac (2112)
the passage below Mali Stoac. There is also a trail around Orlojevac. (See the description of Bodiguz and the map.)
49
Vrh Bodiguz je izuzetno lijepo mjesto i, osim ptije perspektive na Velje Duboko, nudi jo i sjajan pogled na Lukanje
elo, Tali, Maganik i ulaz u kanjon Mrtvice. Desno od zatravljene
lokve Jezerina (gledano sa vrha), prema Brnjiku, nalazi se izvor
koji radi i kad oni oko Jezerine presue.
50
Proceed towards the south-east, pass the marsh Bara, and enter the
well-established trail leading to Jezerina and the (deserted) katun of
Brnjik.
51
52
53
Route description: Go west, across the talus slope on the left side
of M. urim, and then follow the trail which goes above Piperski
katun. Now head for the elevation point 1777, pass it from the left
and proceed towards Dolovi without losing height. In that way you
will reach ljemena and the path running over it. When you get to
the ridge, take a look towards the north-east and you will see the
54
inconspicuous grassy peak which was rarely climbed by mountaineers before 2005 that is Kruta.
55
56
57
Route description: The first part of the route (to the range ljemena) is the same as in the previous description. You can see tit but
not Lastva. Follow the range and at the lowest section head for the
elevation point 1919. The terrain is very unusual you can walk
over large flat rocky areas or simply go around them and start the
ascent of the pass, below the peak Zvornik (2156). Once you get
there, the recognizable path will take you to your destination.
On your way
back from Lastva, you can also
visit tit. Follow
the ridge to the
west. Go around
a couple of large
depressions and
continue uphill
towards the peak
which offers wonderful views of neighbouring Lastva, Kruta, Vragodo, and other surrounding mountains.
58
Additional notes: From tit you do not have to return to the depressions and trail to Lastva there is a narrow passage (SE) through
which you can descend directly to the elevation point 1919. Yes, it
is a bit steep, but nothing to worry about.
Option 2:
Access: Niki Konjsko Kapetanovo jezero
Elevation difference: 554 m
Route description: Follow the road which goes along the left shore
of the lake and then continues uphill through Radojeva prodo.
[prodo = passage] When you reach the fork at the end of the rise,
leave the road and go left/north towards the pass between Krstac
(2098) and Zvornik in order to join the trail from option 1. Or, if
you are looking for adventure, head directly for the peak.
59
Opis ture: Slijediti put koji ide lijevom obalom jezera, a zatim kroz
Radojevu prodo. (Vidi prethodnu fotografiju, Lastva, varijanta 2.)
Na kraju tog uspona put se razdvaja. Idete lijevo, odnosno pravo, i
nastavljate kretanje gore-dolje u pravcu sjeveroistoka. Zagradac je
60
posljednji vrh koji vidite (a zapravo pretposljednji) u lancu na lijevoj strani. Ostatak uspona je ucrtan na slici opis na engleskom.
Mnogi planinari smatraju da je ovaj vrh jedan od atraktivnijih u ovom dijelu Morakih planina, a iza njega su izazovni otri
ukljevi Pockog vrha koji, moda, ne bi trebalo da budu predmet
interesovanja obinih planinara.
Napomena: Staza nije previe zahtjevna, ali ipak posljednji dio ove
ture (hod uz stjenoviti zid i travnati zavretak uspona) treba odraditi
uz poveanu panju.
* Karta za Zagradac je od pomoi i za sljedee dvije ture: Vojinovac i Staraka gradina, kao i za Lastvu, varijanta 2.
61
Route description: Follow the road which goes along the left shore
of the lake and then continues uphill through Radojeva prodo. (See
the photo in the description of Lastva, option 2.) When you reach
the junction at the end of the rise, take the left track, i.e. go straight
ahead and proceed towards the north-east, elevation point 1925.
Zagradac is the highest (distant) peak of the mountain range on the
left. The rest of the route is shown in the picture.
Many mountaineers consider Zagradac as one of the most
attractive peaks of the mountains of Moraa.
Additional notes: The last part of the route should be climbed with
increased concentration. Once you get to the shoulder (right from
the summit) you will be able to see the sharp knuckles of Pocki
vrh. Ordinary mountaineers should avoid climbing these peaks
without additional equipment.
* The map of Zagradac is also useful for the tours on Vojinovac &
Staraka gradina, as well as for Lastva, option 2.
62
Opis ture: Put ide lijevom obalom jezera, a zatim kroz Radojevu
prodo. Na kraju uspona (prevoj Krstac, 1908 m) ne ii ni lijevim ni
desnim krakom puta, nego nastaviti livadom u pravcu planine iji
lijevi dio nedostaje to je Vojinovac. Tako ete ponovo doi do
puta (iznad katuna Markov mramor) i prirodnog prolaza koji vodi
do poetka greda. Odatle se penjete ka glavnom vrhu. Staza (ovija)
postoji, ali, na alost, prolazi ispod grebena. Jedna mogunost za
izlazak je prikazana na karti.
63
VOJINOVAC 2050 m
Season: May-November
Access: Niki Konjsko Kapetanovo jezero
Elevation difference: 378 m
Route description: Follow the road which goes along the left shore
of the lake and then continues uphill through Radojeva prodo.
When you reach the junction at the end of the rise, leave the road(s)
and walk over grassy terrain in the direction of the mountain whose
left part is missing Vojinovac. In that way you will get to the
road again. Cross it and head for the beginning of the crag. There is
a clear path leading to the grassy area bellow the ridge/peak. One
ascent option is given on the map.
64
65
Opis ture: Prvi dio ove ture je isti kao za Vojinovac sve do poetka
greda. Nastavljate preko sipara (ispod greda) i ulazite u stazu koja
e vas odvesti iza Vojinovca. Sa njene desne strane se nalaze dvije
jame u kojima uvijek ima snijega. Kad preete travnati prevoj, dalje
idete prema istoku lijevim, gornjim krakom staze. Kreete se goredolje, dijelom i preko stjenovitog terena, ali i nepogreivo dolazite
do jednog od naih omiljenih vrhova. Poloaj Starake gradine je
izuzetan, a samim tim i pogled na okolne planine i Gornju Morau.
Napomene: Za
ovaj vrh bi bilo
dobro da izaberete neki od istijih dana na
primjer, u septembru. U blizini,
juno od vrha, je
jezerce, odnosno
malo vea lokva (nije u pitanju Mileva lokva koju vidite na karti), a
tu su i ostaci nekadanjeg katuna.
66
Route description: The first part of the tour is the same as for Vojinovac. But, when you get to the beginning of the crag, proceed
carefully across the scree slope. The trail will take you to the other
side of Vojinovac. From there head east and follow the left/upper
track of the path which switchbacks over rocky and grassy terrain
but also unmistakably leads to one
of our favourite peaks. The location of Staraka gradina is quite
extraordinary, and so are the views
of the surrounding mountains.
Additional notes: If you decide to
visit this peak, make sure that it is
one of the clearer spring or autumn
days. There is a small pond/lake in
the vicinity, but it is not Mileva
lokva which is shown on the map.
You will also see the remains of
the katun after which this peak got its name and a couple of snow
pits.
67
68
69
70
71
Route description: Park the car in Ropunica and walk along the
forest road until you reach a clearing and then follow the marked
trail leading to the saddle between Ruda glava and Kule. You will
climb a rather steep slope, and the ridge of the main peak(s) is, at
places, quite demanding and narrow so take your time. In fact, if
you have any doubts in yourself, stay at Ruda glava and enjoy the
views. (*Do not climb if the grass is wet!)
72
73
Opis ture: Slijediti put i proi naputeni katun (zidana kua), a onda desno irokom stazom do obiljeenog odvajanja za izvor/ubao
Studenac i dvije lokve. Od izvora proi prosjeenom stazom do
druge lokve, a od nje lijevo i uzbrdo do raskrsnice umskih puteva.
Tu nastavljate pravo, pratei balvanski put u pravcu vrha koji
vam sada ve slui kao dobar orjentir. Na kraju tog puta (nakon
krae cik-cak dionice) idete lijevo i ulazite u stazu kroz jedan prilino lijep predio. Petrov vrh je stalno ispred vas. (Veina skretanja
je sada oznaena, ali ipak pronaite orjentire za povratak, jer vas
teren na par mjesta moe odvui na dolje prema Rekoici.) Ubrzo
izlazite iz ume i kreete se drijelom prema velikom cirku. Kad
savladate blagu uzbrdicu, neposredno prije ulaza u cirk, na desnoj
strani (odmah iznad puta) se nalazi peina/jama. Od nje, lijevim
obodom otvora, poinjete zavrni uspon. Za ~ dvadesetak minuta
dolazite na greben sa kog imate sjajan pogled na istoni dio Maganika, a onda istim grebenom stiete i na sam vrh.
Napomena: Domoroci iz oblinjeg katuna, iz nekog razloga, nijesu ba najljubaznije nastrojeni prema doljacima!
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Route description: When you reach the fork, take the right track.
In a few seconds you will see an unusual wooden shed. Park the car
there. Walk along the road and at the first junction turn right. That
trail will take you to the marked place where the path to the well
Studenac branches off. Refresh yourself at the well, walk past the
first of two ponds from the left, proceed uphill, and you will soon
come to the junction of 3 forest roads. Go straight ahead, and
follow the track going in the direction of the peak which is already
visible. At the end of that track, after a zigzag section, take the left
turn and enter the path running through the forest (the last picture).
Petrov vrh is constantly in front of you and all important turnings
are now marked but, nevertheless, try to find a couple of orientation
75
points, because on your way back the terrain could easily trick you
and take you downwards to Rekoica.
Eventually, you will come out of the forested area and find yourself
on the trail leading to a huge cirque. There is no need to enter the
cirque. Instead, at its very entrance look for the cave (there may be
snow in it) on the right, immediately above the trail. The final part
of the ascent starts from there, along the left edge of the opening. In
about 20 minutes you will climb the ridge which offers a beautiful
view of eastern Maganik. The same ridge will also take you to the
summit.
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Opis ture: (Prilaz 1) Terenskim vozilom se moe doi i do Maganikog polja. Ipak, put je mjestimino u vrlo loem stanju, pa zato
kad poslije Stanjevia rupe proete odvajanje za Rekoicu (kolibe
na lijevoj strani) vozite do mjesta gdje se spajaju put kojim ste doli
i put iz Morakova, a onda produite lijevim krakom, kratko kroz
umu. Kad stignete do povee istine na desnoj strani (Mala Rekoica) parkirajte automobil. Hodate do raskrsnice, a zatim lijevo,
uzbrdo, i dolazite do jo jednog razdvajanja. Tano tu, gdje desni
krak puta poinje da obilazi Maganiko polje, postoji preica kroz
umu koja silazi u polje i ide dalje njegovim obodom. Kokotov vrh
je lijevo (S), a masiv Meeeg vrha je prema sjeveroistoku. Staza
77
Babini zubi
78
79
through the forest leading to the cottages in the northern part of the
field. Kokotov vrh (Cocks peak) is on the left (N) and Meei vrh
(Bears peak) is in front of you (NE).
The trail starts behind the last huts and ascends the saddle
between the peaks trbina. You can have a short rest there, but it
80
is better to climb a little further to the right and in about 10 min you
will enjoy the extraordinary view of Babini zubi (Grandmothers
teeth). There is a large depression nearby. Choose the left path
around it. Continue to the south-east and then follow the ridge to
the east. Immediately before the main peak, which is recognized by
a short concrete pillar, there is another large depression in which
you can usually find snow even in September.
On the way back
to Maganiko polje you
dont have to follow the
same route. Walk along
the ridge until you notice
the path running directly
downwards to the katuns
at the foothill. When you
get out of the pine forest,
there is a path (ledge) to
the left it is the way to
a water reservoir.
This route is still
used by some people as
a way up it is steeper,
but shorter. I myself hate
it because of the slippery
terrain (mixed grass and
scree). It always seems that the descent takes the same amount of
time as the ascent.
Additional notes: All in all, Maganik is a waterless mountain, but
only in the area of Meei vrh there are at least four places (pits,
depressions) in which you can find snow all year round.
81
82
Varijanta 2: Idete prema jugu (kota 1688) kreui se preko niza travnatih i kamenitih uvala. Staza ima vie, jer se tuda kreu pastiri sa
ovcama. U svakom sluaju, va cilj je umovito-stjenoviti teren i
prevoj (koji ne penjete) desno od Rogoeda. Kad priete dovoljno
blizu vieete lijevak i par mogunosti za zavrni uspon. (Slika
ispod.) Glavni vrh je drugi od prevoja i relativno lako se penje
naroito tokom maja i poetkom juna kad ima dosta snijega.
83
84
you will see the natural passage on the left and a way or two to the
top. The main peak is the second from the pass. The ascent is a bit
steep, but interesting. This tour is recommended in May when there
is plenty of snow.
Additional notes: The first option may seem difficult, but it is not
so. If you wish, you can use one way to get to the top and the other
to go down from it. (The map: Rogoed and Bourni vrh 1 & 2)
85
Opis ture:
Varijanta 1: Prvi dio rute je isti kao i za Rogoed, ali kad proete
prevoj idete lijevo i ulazite u dugu travnatu jarugu koja e vas odvesti iza stjenovitog Tijaka (1814 m) i dalje prema vrhu donja
fotografija. Kreete se postepeno navie, put jugoistoka, pratei
planinu kako bi izbjegli mnogobrojne vrtae na desnoj strani.
86
87
88
Opis ture: Od Zmijnikog jezera do Painog polja vodi dobar makadamski put. Ako se odluite da automobil ostavite na kraju asfalta,
narednih 3,7 km moete uivati u etnji kroz borovu i jelovu umu.
89
Najljepe vrijeme za ovu turu je upravo period avgust-septembar. Preporuujem je i onima koji se ne bave planinarenjem.
90
91
92
93
94
95
96
Veliki Pearac
97
Route description: Jeita - Polje Bijelia. (See the prev. descripttion, and the small picture on page 96.) Head north-east, take the
shortcut to the right, and then follow the gravel road which goes in
the direction of Veliki Pearac, the highest peak in this area. At the
junction (Kriako polje - Starako polje, there is a signpost) go left
and the road will take you to the foothills of the mountain. About
50 m from the ruins on the right (a former house, the picture
below), you will notice the clear path leading to a nearby cottage.
Start the ascent behind it, through the ravine. The main peak is on
the left the route is shown above.
The only
shortcoming of
this tour (at least,
for some people)
could be the long
walk (back) along
the gravel road 7
km. However, the
effort is well rewarded: the open spaces and the views from the top
are really magnificent. The area is particularly beautiful in June, but
the best season to climb V. Pecarac is autumn to avoid the hot
weather.
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Opis ture: Hodati putem dok ne vidite prvu kuu na lijevoj strani, a
zatim se iznad nje uputiti na istok, prema Vali. Moete pratiti njeno
pruanje u gornjem dijelu, a onda sami izaberite kuda vam najbolje
odgovara. Staza koja je opisana i ona koja je ucrtana na karti su samo par od nekoliko moguih varijanti za ovu turu. U stvari, najvanije je da se stalno kreete u pravcu sjeveroistoka i na kraju ete
doi do najvieg vrha na kom se nalazi mala piramida. (Na slici
ispod oblaka.) Pogled je odlian.
Napomena: Kad ste ve tu, popnite i druga dva, samo 1m nia, ali
ipak, ljepa vrha Velikog starca. Manja fotografija na strani 101.
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100
Access: Niki avnik Boan Krnja jela (Gornja rijeka) Ljutovac. The distance from Boan - abljak junction to the unmarked
and sudden turning to the left in Krnja jela or, more precisely, Gornja Rijeka is 8.2 km. (See the satellite map showing the access to
Babin vrh.) The road to Ljutovac is asphalt, but narrow and rather
steep 3 km. The final 0.7 km to the parking place (on the right
side of the road) is macadam.
Elevation difference: about 420 m
Route description: Continue along the road on foot until you see
the first house on the left. Go past that house and head east in the
direction of Vala. When you enter it, just follow the terrain and
keep on climbing (NE). Still, the route given on the map is only a
suggestion there are several ways to the summit. In fact, the only
real instruction is as follows: move north-east all the time, looking
for the highest peak with a small pyramidal structure at the top.
Additional
note: Since you
are already here,
you should prolong this tour for
~15 minutes and
climb the 2, only
1m lower, peaks
of V. starac too.
(SE) It is worth the effort because they offer the closer views of
Jablanov vrh and Gradite.
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Opis ture: Vozilo ostaviti u blizini izvora/ubla Smrdan. Idete kratko putem, a onda lijevo ka bliem i naizgled najviem vrhu planine pored Kukavice (1860) na desnoj, a zatim i Pekove glave (1872)
na lijevoj strani. Prolazite kotu 1913 (lijevo) i dolazite do podnoja
planine. Uoavate stazu koja vodi ukoso navie poetak uspona.
Nakon prolaza
(prva fotografija
u opisu na engl.
jeziku) moete,
ako imate volje i
vremena, produiti sve do poetka litice, baciti
pogled u pravcu
Gornjeg Lipova,
i konano grebenom lagano zavriti uspon do zidine na vrhu. Ako
je dan lijep, pogled (prema Graditu i Torni naroito) je izuzetan.
Napomena: Druga, manja fotografija prikazuje dionicu od poetka
uspona (lijevo) do prolaza u stijenama (desno).
102
Route description: Park the vehicle in the field near the well/water
reservoir called Smrdan. Head for the closer, and seemingly the
103
highest, peak of the mountain in front of you. Walk between Kukavica (1860) and Pekova glavica (1872), and finally pass the
elevation point 1913 from the right side. In less than an hour you
should be at the foothill of the mountain. There is a trail running
upwards to the right.
Follow it to the passage (the picture below)
and then go north-east
towards the main peak.
Or, in order to make
the tour more interesting, you can go on all
the way to the beginning of the ridge (the
edge of the cliff) take a
short break and have a
look at the village of (Gornje) Lipovo, and finish the ascent along
the ridge. (See the picture below.) If the weather is clear, the views
are excellent, particularly the ones of Gradite and Torna.
Additional notes: The smaller picture in the description in Montenegrin shows the ascent route from the foothills of Jablanov vrh to
the passage shown in the photograph above.
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Varijanta 2: Hodajui dolje-gore prema jugu stiete do podnoja velikog sipara, to jest Gradit (2174 m). Penjete se ka sedlu
i dobijate izuzetan pogled na susjednu Tornu. Odatle desno i blagim
travnatim padinama za desetak minuta stiete do vrha.
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Vranova glavica i Gradita sa Torne / Vranova glavica and Gradita from Torna
Route description: Park the car near the house with tin roof, ~ 8
km from the end of the asphalt. The photograph above gives you
the rear view of the mountain. There is a good path leading in the
direction of the pond at the foothills of upljaa 2071 (SE; the first
picture in the Montenegrin description). Once you get over the pass
/ridge, leave the path, head south, walk around a large depression,
and continue uphill until the terrain opens. Now go down and then
up towards the scree slope left from the main peak. When you get
close enough, you
will notice the zigzag trail to the saddle. (Slippery!)
Finally, turn right
(W) and climb the
mild grassy slopes
of Vranova glavica. The views are
really fascinating, especially the one of neighbouring Torna.
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Vranova glavica
107
108
109
Route description: The first picture in the description in Montenegrin shows the position of Torna (in the middle) viewed from the
accessing road. You can also see the Stone gate through which
you have to go on the way to edov do, a large cirque.
When you park the car, walk uphill, along the road, and at
the first turn to the right you will see the sign edov do written
on a rock. The trailhead is next to it, behind a bush-tree. At the
beginning the trail is clear and marked, but you need to abandon it
when it starts going to the right, out of the gorge. That place is also
marked and easily recognized. From there the waymarks stop. Now
climb directly upwards, first through the forest and then over scree.
(Do not move away from the cliff on the right.) In a shortwhile, you
will come to the foothill of another scree slope. Continue along its
110
rocky edge. Unfortunately, the path through the forest (if there ever
was one) is overgrown and cannot be used.
111
112
DURMITOR
Durmitor je, kako kau, svijet za sebe i moda veim dijelom ne
spada u planine centralne Crne Gore. U ovom vodiu je, u skladu sa
kartografskom podjelom, podijeljen na Sjever i Jug. Tako se u
grupi Sjever nalaze opisi uspona na tri vrha ljemena, zatim na
Bandijernu, arene pasove i Pruta. Bobotov kuk i Veliki Meed,
kao dva najpoznatija i (pored Savinog kuka) najposjeenija vrha do
kojih vode dobro utabane markirane staze, su samo dotaknuti sa
par reenica i predstavljeni po jednom lijepom fotografijom.
Durmitor Jug je zastupljen sa tri vrha: Ranisava, Sedlena
greda i Lojanik.
Bobotov kuk 2523m
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DURMITOR
In this guide the Durmitor area is divided in two parts: North and
South. The former includes six peaks: ljeme, Istoni vrh, Miloev tok (which all belong to the range of ljeme), Bandijerna, areni pasovi and Pruta. Bobotov kuk and Veliki Meed, as the two
best known and (besides Savin kuk) most frequently climbed peaks
with their well-established and marked trails, are merely touched
with a couple of sentences.
Durmitor South is represented by the following peaks:
Ranisava, Sedlena greda, and Lojanik.
Bobotov kuk 2523m
Most people usually start this tour from the pass called Sedlo. The
trail leads to the unnamed pass left from Uvita greda (2199), goes
around Zupci (2309) and descends to Zeleni vir the beginning of a
long climb to the rocky peak. However, I think that the trail from
Urdeni do (see the description of areni pasovi) is a better option.
Veliki Meed 2287m
Walk around Crno jezero to the left and follow the marked trail
heading south. At the junction behind the spring Toak go right.
From the pass known as Struga (1920) the ascent becomes rather
steep so be careful. Access the main peak along the ridge to the left.
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115
Opis ture: Zaobilazite brdo Vinjeve glavice (1758) postepeno dobijajui na visini, izlazite na prevoj i kreete preko, prvo travnatog,
pa kamenitog terena ka podnoju srednjeg, najmanjeg od 3 grebena
koja vidite. Penjete greben sa desne strane i ulazite u jasnu stazu
koju kasnije, u posljednjem dijelu ture, naputate jer ona ide dalje
ravno preko strane, a vi nastavljate uzbrdo prema sjeverozapadu i
glavnom vrhu. Nakon odmora moete prei na deset metara nii
Istoni vrh (2445), sputiti se prema Mlijenom, a onda i Mekom
dolu i tako se vratiti na poetni poloaj.
116
Route description: Cross the road and walk around Vinjeve glavice (the hills on the right). After the pass, the terrain opens and you
will see 3 huge ridges. Head for the one in the middle over grassy
meadows of Meki do. Begin the ascent of the ridge from its right
side and enter the conspicuous path coming from the neighbouring
ridge. When it starts traversing the slope to the west, leave it and
continue uphill (NW) towards the main peak of ljeme. On the way
down you can visit Istoni vrh (East peak, 2445), descend to Mlijeni do, and eventually join the original trail (S).
The other, shorter ascent route starts from the restaurant (?)
above Valovito jezero. Once you go through Lomno drijelo and
enter the cirque of Veliki Lomni do, you will have two options, but
my advice is to go left, climb the ridge, and use it as a direct way to
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the main peak. In order to make this tour even more attractive you
could do the following: when you reach the point where the two
ridges meet, do not continue uphill but go towards the west, in the
direction of Miloev tok (2426), a fine peak which offers a good
view of western Durmitor. Then return to Miloeva lokva (Milos
pond) and just follow the ridge leading to a deep depression below
ljeme. There is always snow in it. (See the previous picture.)
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119
This is certainly one of the most striking parts of Montenegro. Ranisava is easily recognised by its craggy, pointed peaks.
The parking place is the same as for ljeme 1.
Elevation difference: about 500 m
Route description: Go down to Suva lokva (Dry pond) which is
usually really dry from the middle of July. Walk along its right
shore and climb the grassy saddle behind it (Meugorje). When you
finish the ascent, leave the trail and head west. Pass the elevation
point 1847 and cross the talus at the foothill (below the Chimney).
Climb to the passage(s) as shown in the small photo in the description in Montenegrin and turn left (the only possible way). Traverse
the two short but exposed grassy sections and then continue upwards scrambling the steep and narrow slope mixed grass and
scree! Finally, follow the ridge in the direction of Sedlena greda
(2227 m), the dominant peak to the west, and you will be at the
summit in a few minutes.
Descend the same way and from Suva lokva turn left (W).
About 15 minutes later, you will reach the shore of Modro jezero.
Of course, you can have lunch there, rest, or simply enjoy the sight.
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121
Opis ture: Parkirati na prevoju Sedlo (1908). Uspon poinje sa june (lijeve) strane puta i odmah ete ugledati markaciju koja, iz nekog razloga, nije uvijek u skladu sa ve postojeom stazom. Poto
markirana ruta nije i najbolja, moj predlog je sljedei: u trenutku
kad doete do mjesta na kom staza ide ravno preko strane (prema
jugoistoku, iste strane), a oznake pokazuju naglo uzbrdo zanemarite ih i pratite put. Tako ete izbjei jedno nepotrebno penjanje i
lako zaobii kotu 2148. Nastavljate dalje prema jugozapadu i stiete
na stjenoviti, ali krljivi dio nakon koga ulazite u jasnu stazu koja
preko izuzetno strme travnate padine vodi ka vrhu. Prostor na vrhu
je uzak i nije pogodan za vee grupe.
Napomena: Sedlena greda je zaista atraktivna planina i pogled je
izuzetan, ali se uspon ipak ne preporuuje ljudima koji se plae
visine, ili kretanja po vrlo strmom terenu. Dodatan problem nekome
mogu predstavljati i brojni bumbari u opasnijem, posljednjem dijelu
uspona, ali vam oni nee smetati ukoliko ih putite da na miru rade
svoj posao. I, napokon, tokom sunog perioda trava na vrhu je krta i
moe biti klizava.
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Route description:
Leave the car at the
parking, at the pass
Sedlo. The trailhead
is next to the road
(S) and you will immediately notice the
waymarks, but bear
in mind that they
are not always consistent with the existing path. Once you find it, my suggestion is to
follow the path all the time. When it starts going south-east (iste
strane), ignore the waymarks and simply walk around the elevation
point 2148 without unnecessary climbing. After that, head southwest and uphill. In the last part of the ascent you will have to cross
a short rocky section, go to the other side of the ridge, and finally
enter the conspicuous path which traverses the south, very steep
and grassy face of the mountain.
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124
Slijedite bilo koji od 2 kraka staze sve dok ne siete u Suve tavane (na karti to je prije Surutke), a onda siparom ukosite u pravcu
Trojnog prevoja, travnatog prelaza izmeu Bandijerne i niza otrih
stjenovitih vrhova (Zupci, 2309). Na prevoju idete desno, ulazite u
125
126
Route description: Park the car at Sedlo (1908 m) and head north
towards the pass left from Uvita greda (2199). This is also one of
the routes to Bobotov kuk. The section after scree is exposed and
requires increased concentration. After the pass the trail levels and
you will immediately notice the magnificent vertical cliffs of Miloev tok and Bandijerna ahead. (In the picture above the latter is in
the middle and seems much lower.) Follow either of the tracks,
because they both descend to Suvi tavani. (On the map: the flatter
terrain before Surutka.) Now leave the trail and diagonally climb
the scree slope in the direction of Trojni prevoj, the grassy pass
between Bandijerna and a string of pointed rocky peaks (Zupci,
2309). When you get there, the peak is on the right. *Climb with
caution: mixed scree and grass!
Additional note: In order to avoid the exposed section left from
Uvita greda, you can walk towards the pass which divides Vjetrena
brda, head east (follow the line of the mountain), cross the trail to
Bobotov kuk, climb Trojni prevoj, and finish the ascent.
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Opis ture: Parkirati na nekom od proirenja. Markirana staza poinje odmah pored puta (S) i obilazi Urdeni do. Pratiti je sve dok, iza
prevoja, na lijevoj strani ne ugledate dug sipar i neobine stjenovite
linije, odnosno naslage. Dalji dio rute je nemarkiran.
Krenite prema siparu i njegovim obodom ete doi do prolaza i zanimljive prirodne staze koja vodi do (ne ba lagane) travnate padine
128
129
130
131
Route description: Drive along the road towards the further end of
Mt Lojanik (See the picture above.) and leave the car in the widening on the left side of the road, immediately after the sharp curve to
the right, about 300 meters before Vodeni do. As you come closer
to the parking place you will notice the narrow grassy passage
between two rocky hills covered with dwarf pines.
That is the
beginning of the
only real ascent
in this little tour.
Follow a visible
path to the ridge.
There used to be
a small cairn at
its top. (I do not
know what the
constructors original intention was, but you may still find it useful
on your way back, because it shows the place where the trail goes
down to the starting point.) When you climb the ridge, continue towards the main peak over rugged terrain. The trail is unmarked, or
to be honest, almost non-existent. However, a couple of years ago it
132
was cleared from half-burnt branches and also cut through the pine
wood in its final, easier section.
On your way to
the summit you
will see two
mo-re
cairns:
one at the top of
a peak in the
middle of the
mountain
(?),
and the other in
the large dwarfpine area before crossing over to the main peak. This last cairn is
also the only one which has a real purpose when you find yourself
standing in front of an impenetrable green wall, do not give up,
just follow its edge to the left and in a minute or two you will come
across the pile of stones showing the way through.
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Opis ture: Pruta se moe peti iz pravca Todorovog dola, od Prijespe, od izvora arban... Ipak, ini se da je varijanta od Vodenog
dola najelegantnija, najlaka za opis, a i uklapa se u onaj vremenski
okvir od oko dva sata hoda u jednom pravcu. Dakle, iza spomenika
na desnoj strani puta (malo prije Vodnog dola) poinje staza prema
krkom drijelu (SI). Kad izaete na taj prelaz, birate lijevi krak
desni se sputa
ka krkim jezerima (slika je
u opisu za arene pasove) i
grebenom dolazite do vrha.
U posljednjem
dijelu ove ture
malo vie panje nije na odmet, a osim direktnog, postoji i zaobilazni pravac za
zavrni uspon sa sjeveroistone strane vrha.
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135
136
Opis ture: Automobil ostavljate na poetku makadama. Ima mjesta za par vozila. Upuujete se stranom prema siparu i irokom
prolazu izmeu upljike (2063) na desnoj i Bijelog koma (2034) na
lijevoj strani. Staze su jo vidljive. Birate gornju i im uete u prolaz (Zagulj) poinjete uspon kreui se to blie gredama na desnoj
strani. (Na treoj fotografiji, slikanoj sa istoka, prikazan je upravo
taj dio planine. Tokom penjanja glavni vrh ne vidite, iako je stalno
ispred vas.) Neposredno prije vrha slijedi mali pad, a onda zavrni,
neto strmiji uspon travnatim dijelom padine. (Ukupno oko 1h.)
Teren je grdan, ali je pogled na okolne planine odlian.
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Route description: Park the car at the junction (the diversion to the
katun Boban and Burukovac). Head for the scree slope on the right
and then enter Zagulj, the wide passage (cirque) between upljika
(2063) and Bijeli kom (2034). The trails are still visible. Choose the
upper one. Once you get to the passage, you will have at least two
options, but it is
(definitely) better
to keep closer to
the rough mass of
rock on the right.
The summit will
be in front of you
all the time even
though you dont
see it. The photo
on the next page shows a large part of the mountain. It was taken
from the south Bijeli kom (2034).
138
Immediately before the peak the trail drops a bit, and then comes
the final part of the ascent along the grassy section of the slope.
The terrain is a bit difficult and not that pretty to look at,
but the views of the surrounding mountains are excellent, especially
in June or autumn.
139
140
141
142
(1: 50 00)
Opis ture: Staza poinje od mosta i vodi vas ulijevo, malo dalje od
rijeke, ali paralelno sa njom. Ubrzo dolazite do sipara koji prelazite
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i ulazite u jaku stazu kojom se dalje kreete kroz umu. Neka vas ne
brine to vie ne vidite i ne ujete rijeku, samo nastavite uzbrdo.
Kad je ponovo ujete znaete da ste blizu ulaza u Vragodo. Izlazite
iz ume i obavezno pravite kratak odmor pored malog i izuzetno
lijepog sezonskog jezera. Zatim produavate dalje (JZ-Z). Kako se
primiete starom katunu na brijegu, huk vodopada na lijevoj strani
postaje sve jai...
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Route description: The trail will take you to the left, a little off the
river, but parallel with it. Cross the talus slope and enter the trail
going uphill through the forest. You will not see or hear the river
for a while, but when you do hear it again, you will know that you
are getting closer to Vragodo (Devils valley). You can rest at the
shore of a small seasonal lake and then proceed towards the west.
There is a katun on the hill and from there you will be able to see
and hear a beautiful waterfall coming out of the cliff your final
destination for the day.
The scenery and atmosphere are, as they say, unreal.
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Option 2:
If you own a good all-terrain vehicle, you can also reach Vragodo
by driving through Krnovo polje (see the description of Gackove
grede) and, instead of turning to tirni do (Trpezarija, pg 29/31),
proceed all the way to Ivan-begov katun at the foothils of Kruta
the end of the road, 13 km. There is a trail going over the mountain
range Trpezarija - Kapa moraka (NW, left from the katun) and
than leading down to Vragodo (E-SE, ~ 4.5 km).
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Biljeka o autoru
eljko (Brankov i Vinkin) Musovi je roen u Nikiu,
1965. godine. kolovao se u Nikiu i Sarajevu. Zavrio filozofski
fakultet, odsjek Anglistika. Vodi Planine Centralne Crne Gore je
njegova peta objavljena knjiga.
ivi i radi u Nikiu.
www.Smashwords.com/profile/view/ZeljkoMussovich
e-mail: zeljko.mussovich@gmail.com
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SADRAJ / CONTENTS:
Uvod / Preface ...... 5, 7
Prekornica, Kula ...... 9, 11
Vojnik
Vojnik ...... 14, 16
Gradni vrh, Mramorje ...... 18, 19
etiri manja vrha / Four lower peaks ...... 21, 23
Gackove grede ...... 25, 27
(Ostrvica)
Trpezarija ...... 29, 31
Lola
V. Zebalac ...... 32, 34
Lijevno ...... 36, 37
Borovnik ...... 39, 40
Mali i Veliki urim ...... 42, 43
Ilijin vrh, Nikolin vrh ...... 45, 46
(etkov vrh)
Stoac
Stoac ...... 48, 49
Bodiguz ...... 50, 51
Kapa Moraka
Kruta ...... 53, 54
Lastva, tit ...... 56, 58
Zagradac ...... 60, 62
Vojinovac ...... 63, 64
Staraka gradina ...... 66, 67
Lukanje elo ...... 68, 79
Tali ...... 71, 72
Maganik
Petrov vrh/Kurozeb ...... 73, 75
Meei vrh ...... 77, 79
Rogoed ...... 82, 84
Bourni vrh ...... 86, 88
Sinjajevina
Korman ...... 89, 91
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