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PLANINE CENTRALNE CRNE GORE

(Planinarski vodi)
eljko Musovi

Naslovna strana i velika karta


Igor Donevi

MC Unlimited (Niki, Montenegro)


&
Smashwords edition
ISBN 9781301452088
www.smashwords.com/books/view/296459

Smashwords
Los Gatos, California USA

ELJKO MUSOVI

PLANINE CENTRALNE CRNE GORE


(planinarski vodi)

THE MOUNTAINS OF CENTRAL MONTENEGRO


(A guide-book for mountaineers)

Naslovna strana / The cover: Gradni vrh (Mt Vojnik)

Licence Notes
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Thank you for respecting the hard work of this author.

2016.

Opisi tura su u potpunosti rezultat boravka na terenu stanje kakvo


je zateeno 2014-2015. godine. Na alost, mogue je da su u nekim
sluajevima poari i ljudi uinili svoje i unitili pojedine putokaze.

Uvod

Planine Crne Gore su odavno predmet interesovanja raznih


putopisaca, biologa, geografa, fotografa... i o njima je napisano, ili
napravljeno mnogo knjiga. U potonje vrijeme se pojavilo i nekoliko
planinarsko-turistikih vodia, od kojih je u svijetu najpoznatiji The
Mountains of Montenegro Rudolfa Abrahama iz 2010. godine.
Mnogi tu knjigu smatraju jednom od najkorisnijih za planinare, ali i
ostale ljude koji namjeravaju da posjete Crnu Goru. Meutim, iz
nekog (ili, bolje reeno, nekoliko) razloga u tom vodiu su, za razliku od sjevera, istoka i juga, zapadni i centralni dio Crne Gore (osim
Durmitora) u potpunosti zanemareni, ili samo usput pomenuti.
Nasuprot Abrahamu, trojica domaih autora su u, za sada,
jedinom sveobuhvatnom vodiu kroz crnogorske planine predstavili
ovo podruje sa nekih petnaestak jedinica, ali i to je, ipak, bio
samo skroman poetak. Takoe, ispostavilo se da su u pojedinim
sluajevima rute zastarele, a pristupi planini ak i pogreni, tako da
do vrha, ili same planine, uopte ne biste ni doli.
Poto sam mnogo vremena tokom proteklih 30 godina proveo po ovim planinama, otkrivajui nekadanje i traei nove i bolje staze do njihovih vrhova, prije par godina na Garu prijatelj mi
je predloio da na ovaj nain pokuam da ispravim nepravdu, ali i
poneki propust prethodnih pisaca. Tako je, eto, nastala ova knjiica.
U njoj su opisani usponi na 50 vrhova koji se nalaze u centralnom
dijelu Crne Gore i do kojih se, i u najudaljenijem sluaju (Jablanov
vrh, Torna), iz Nikia stie za oko od 2 i po sata vonje.
Na velikoj, pregledno-putnoj karti na kraju knjige su upisane sve obraene planine i ucrtani svi putevi (asfaltni i makadamski)
koji iz Nikia vode do tih planina/vrhova. Tu je, naravno, i veina
mjesta pomenutih u objanjenjima pristupa planinama.
Manje, topografske karte (1: 25000) obino prikazuju samo
pjeake djelove puta do nekog vrha.
Svaka od opisanih tura je jednodnevna. Od planinarske opreme su vam potrebne dobre cipele i jai ranac, a izuzetak mogu
biti samo zimska penjanja na Prekornicu i Vojnik. Vrijeme trajanja
uspona, osim u par opisa, nije precizirano, jer to zavisi od vae fizike spremnosti, orjentacionih sposobnosti, terena, teine uspona...

Ipak, moe se rei da dobro uvjebana grupa penje najvei broj


ovih vrhova za oko 2 ure.
to se sezone tie, to je, kao to ete vieti, uglavnom, period maj-oktobar iz prostog razloga to se do veine naih planina i
vrhova tokom zime moe teko doi. Putevi su pod snijegom i ne
iste se, jer na tim prostorima od novembra do aprila, ili maja nema
stalnih stanovnika. Osim toga, ljudi sa kojima idem u planinu, ja i
moj etvoronogi, dugodlaki drug Goja ba i nijesmo neto poneeni za hodom po mekom i dubokom snijegu tokom decembra,
januara i februara i obino tada samo skitamo po Studenakim glavicama i penjemo brda u okolini Nikia. Ali, ako ste mladi i imate
ivota i volje, zimski usponi su (zavisno od visine i tvrdoe snijega)
mogui na Vojnik, Prekornicu, Borovnik...
U ovom dijelu Crne Gore su planine, odnosno staze do vrhova, (dobro) markirane samo u nekoliko sluajeva, ali su sve rute
opisane tako da planinar ne zavisi od toga da li markacija postoji ili
ne. Trudio sam se da budem precizan i da svaku turu prikaem kao
da je odraujemo prvi put, bez modernih elektronskih pomagala,
a par (za opis) komplikovanijih uspona je i ucrtan na odgovarajuim fotografijama.
I, na kraju, ne zaboravite: uenje koje kae da zmije rijetko borave na visinama iznad 1600 m na ovim prostorima ne vai
nai ete ih i iznad 2100 mnv.
Dakle, samo polako i sretno!

Preface

The mountains of Montenegro have been objects of interest


and inspiration to many travel writers, biologists, geographers,
photographers for a long time, and a number of different books
have been written about them. In the last ten years, a few guidebooks have also appeared. The most recent one, The Mountains of
Montenegro, written by Rudolph Abraham in 2010, was even
awarded and is considered to be one of the most useful books to
any person/mountaineer intending to visit Montenegro. However,
for some, or rather, several perfectly understandable reasons, the
mountains of central Montenegro (with the exception of northern
Durmitor) were completely neglected or just casually mentioned in
Abrahams book.
On the other side, the authors of (so far) the only comprehensive guide through the mountains of Montenegro represented this
area with a dozen units. Still, their work can only be considered
as a (humble) beginning. And, unfortunately, almost half of their
route descriptions are now out of date or unusable, while some
accesses to the mountains are even incorrect.
A few years ago, during an expedition on Gara, a friend of
mine suggested that I should make use of my 25 years of climbing
experience and write a more complete account of the neglected
area. Of course, I liked the idea and, as a result, this little book saw
the light of the day. It includes descriptions of more than 50 routes
to the peaks and mountains of central Montenegro which can all
(even the most distant ones) be reached in less than 2.5 hours by car
from Niki, abljak, or Podgorica.
The larger, overview map at the end of the book contains
the names and locations of the mountains, roads (asphalt and macadam) which lead to them and their peaks and, finally, the names of
more important inhabited places which you have to go through on
your way to these mountains.
The smaller, topographic maps (1: 25000) ordinarily depict
only the walking parts of the routes.
It is important to point out that all the tours can be done as
one day trips. Minimal equipment is required the only exemptions

may be the winter climbs of Prekornica and Vojnik. The exact


times needed for individual ascents have not been specified (except
in a couple of cases), because it depends on many things: your
orientation skills, physical characteristics of the terrain, difficulty of
ascent, how fit you are Nevertheless, it is safe to say that a welltrained group can climb most of the peaks in about 2 hours.
You will see that the most frequently recommended time
for climbing is May-October. The reason for that is really simple: a
large number of mountains in this area cannot be reached during
winter months. Accessing roads are covered in snow and they are
rarely or never cleaned because there is no economical need for
that: our mountains are practically uninhabited from November to
May. Besides, my friends, I,
and my dog are not particularly keen on walking over deep
snow for 3-4 hours in one
direction, and that is why we
usually spend winters strolling around Studenake glavice (Spring hills) or climbing a
number of (over) a thousandmeter-high hills in the vicinity of Niki. However, if you are
young, ready, and willing, there are several winter tours that you
might be interested in: Prekornica, Vojnik, Borovnik...
It is also good to know that (in most cases) the trails to the
summits are unmarked. Therefore, every route is described in a way
that a mountaineer does not depend on whether waymarks exist or
not. In addition, since we never use any of those modern electronic
devices on our expeditions, I have tried to be thorough where
necessary and as accurate as possible. Naturally, all descriptions are
supplemented with the appropriate photographs and please do not
overlook the ones given in the descriptions in the Serbian-Croatian
or Montenegrin language.
And in the end, last but not least, the teaching which says
that snakes rarely inhabit areas above 1600 meters above sea level
does not apply to the mountains of central Montenegro you will
come across these creatures even at 2100 meters!
So, pace yourself and good luck!

PREKORNICA Kula 1927 mnv


Period: Januar-decembar, ali se zimski usponi ne preporuuju bez
dodatne opreme. Kuloar zna biti opasan i u aprilu i maju dok
god u njegovom gornjem dijelu ima snijega.
Prilaz: Niki Rubea Liverovii Gornje Morakovo.
Vozite kroz cijelu upu i na raskrsnici titovo-Morakovo
idete desno. Primiete se brdima koja okruuju kotlinu. Kad ugledate posljednje kue na desnoj strani usporite i skrenite sa asfaltnog
puta na makadam. Prelazite mali most i parkirate kod prve kue.
Visinska razlika: 1048 m

Opis ture: Krenuti putem izmeu kua prema potoku Smrdan, t.j.
Susjed, a zatim nastaviti jakom stazom prema njegovom izvoru. Iza
izvora, na lijevoj strani suvog korita, nalazi se nagnuta livada koju
treba dijagonalno prei i ui u umu da bi se dolo do staze koja
vodi navie ka proplanku Turija. Kretati se desnim obodom Turije,
prei makadamski put i uputiti se prema umskom putu ispred vas.
Pratite ga sve dok ne primijetite da ide previe udesno (polukrug) i
uzbrdo, a onda produite lijevo prosjeenom stazom drijelom
kroz umu. Kad doete do drveta na kom se nalazi urezana strelica
proite ga i skrenite desno. Penjete brdo (drvea je vidljivo manje
nego u okolini) i dolazite na drugi umski put. Sa tog mjesta se vidi
Kula i njen uveni sipar koji zovemo Kuloar. Do njega stiete
pratei put, a zatim izlazite na greben (lijevo) i hodate kratko kroz
umu (ne)postojeom stazom. Vrh i sipar bi trebalo da budu uvijek

ispred vas. Ne obraajte panju na krakove puta koji vas odvlae


isuvie lijevo ili desno.
Do Kuloara moete
doi i drijelom, kroz umu,
povremeno skaui sa jedne
stijene na drugu. Kad izaete na istinu, zavrite uspon
siparom ili (ako to ne elite)
njegovom lijevom, klekovito-stjenovitom stranom. Zaobiite (spaljene) borove kleke i nakon
desetak minuta ste na vrhu.
Napomene: Uspon na Prekornicu spada u one napornije. Staza do
Kuloara je djelimino obiljeena i oiena u aprilu 2011. Ovaj opis
je uraen na osnovu stanja na terenu kakvo je bilo ljeta te godine i
sasvim je mogue da je u meuvremenu dolo do promjena, to jest,
bujanja vegetacije i prekrivanja staze, naroito u drugom dijelu.
Na alost, ova planina ne spada u one posjeenije, a ni odravanije.

Izvor Pitevac, koji se nalazi na karti, vie ne postoji. Teren


od Turije (slika iznad) do Kule je u potpunosti bezvodan. Ipak, i u
julu se mogu nai krpe snijega ako se sa vrha grebenom sputite
do vrtaa (zapad/sjeverozapad, u pravcu upe), nekih 100 m ispod
Kule. Na vrh se ne morate ponovo vraati, jer ga moete obii
kreui se policom ispod greda prema Kuloaru. Postoji samo jedan
prolaz.

10

11

PREKORNICA Kula 1927 m


Season: January-December, but winter ascents should not be made
without additional equipment. The Couloir can be dangerous
even in April or May, for as long as there is snow in its upper part.
Access: Niki Rubea Liverovii (upa) Gornje Morakovo.
When you notice the hills surrounding the valley from 3 sides, it
means that you are getting closer to the starting position. You will
also see the last houses at the bottom of the hill (on the right). Slow
down and look for the gravel road branching off to the right. Drive
over a small bridge and leave the car near one of the houses.
Elevation difference: 1048 m

Route description: Walk between the houses (SE) and go across


the stream called Smrdan (Susjed). Follow the track leading to the
streams source. When you reach it, cross the dry riverbed and walk
diagonally over a slant field in order to enter the forest and join the
trail going uphill to the clearing known as Turija. Continue along
the right edge of Turija, cross the macadam road, and head for the
forest track in front of you. Stay on it for a while, but when you see
it turning abruptly right and uphill, leave it and start moving to the
left along the marked path through the forest. When you get to the
tree with the engraved arrow pointing to the right, climb the hill and
take the track to the left. From there you will be able to see the peak

12

Kula and the notorious scree slope which we call the Couloir. Walk
along the track towards the peak and pay no attention to the sidepaths going to the left (or right).
In the last part of the approach leave the track and simply
walk along the ridge through the forest. There is no conspicuous
trail, but the peak is always visible. Finally, climb the Couloir, find
the best way through or, even better, behind the dwarf pine wood,
then head right, and you will reach the top in a few minutes.
Additional notes: The ascent of Prekornica is rather strenuous and
demands both physical and mental fitness. The trail was marked in
April 2011, but not well and not completely. Also, since than it has
not been maintained at all, and I have to point out that this description depicts the field conditions as they were in the summer of 2011.
It is very likely that the nature has taken its course in the meantime
and vegetation might have covered parts of the trail, particularly in
the area after Turija.
The stream Pitevac, which can be seen on the map, is now
defunct. The terrain from Turija to Kula is completely waterless,
but you can find snow even in August if you walk down the ridge
(W/NW, in the direction of upa) to a number of depressions below
the summit. You do not have to climb back to the top, because there
is a way to the Couloir in the form of a rocky ledge which runs
along the crag.

13

VOJNIK Vojnik 1998 mnv


Period: januar-decembar
Prilaz: Niki Vidrovan Jasenovo polje put za avnik, 5 km
od raskrsnice, jedina kua na lijevoj strani puta.
Visinska razlika: oko 800 m

Opis ture: Odmah pored, ili tanije, iza kue poinje vidljiva staza
koja ide istinom, pa kratko kroz umu i preko jedne ravne livade i
polja paprati vodi do umskog puta. Tim putem stiete do katuna
Vio do, a onda se lijevim obodom dola (SZ) upuujete prema prirodnom prolazu. Odatle lijevo, sredinom livade, neto vie od 100
m. Izlazite na put i ispred sebe primjeujete poetak iroke staze
kroz umu. Kao to vidite na karti, to je zapravo podua preica.

Kad ponovo izaete na put, idete desno i pratite ga do sljedee


preice. Na njenom kraju nastavljate desno i ubrzo ete ugledati du-

14

gaki greben glavnog vrha (prethodna slika). Pratite put sve dok na
lijevoj strani ne primijetite stazu koja ukoso kroz bukovu umu vodi navie do drugog puta, a potom i u katun tirni do. Na raskrsnici je natpis sa imenom katuna na stijeni. (Put produava dalje, ali
se, kao i onaj donji, kojim ste doli, iznenada zavrava u umi.)
Od katuna poinje
pravi uspon. Pravaca ima nekoliko i
ak je par njih neko djelimino oznaio. Meutim, u
dijelu nakon kleka
(na slici lijevo one
su pokrivene velikim smetom) nijedna od staza nije
jasno vidljiva. Zato mi se ini da je najbolje slijediti oznake koje su
vas i dovele do tirnog dola ako nita drugo, makar idu do vrha.
U svakom sluaju, proite pored bukove ume iznad Dola, nastavite
uzbrdo izmeu kleka (malo udesno) i izaite na greben. Dalje ba i
nemate puno izbora pratite greben, a zatim, u tom dijelu, vidljivu
stazu i eto vas nas kraju puta.
Ako je dan lijep, sa Vojnika moete vieti najvei dio Crne
Gore. Oni spremniji, mogu se preko malo teeg terena uputiti ka
istoku i sputiti na prevoj sa kog se lako penje susjedni, Gradni vrh.
Napomene: Planina je najvjerovatnije dobila ime po biljki Hvoinik
/
(lat. Ephdra equisetna), ili po (slovenskoj?) rijei hvoj
/x
(iglice), odnosno
(lat. Pinphyta, Conferae) to je
opta oznaka za bor, jelu i drugo zimzeleno drvee.
Staze na Vojniku (ukljuujui i jednu koja nije opisana u
ovom vodiu do vrha Troglav 1673 m) su oiene i markirane.
Teren je bezvodan, a nakon juna na junoj strani Vojnika
(osim u rupi/vrtai u blizini Gradnog vrha), naalost, nema ni
snijega.
* Ovo je samo jedna od nekoliko mogunosti za uspon na
glavni vrh Vojnika.

15

VOJNIK Vojnik 1998 m


Season: January-December
Access: Niki Vidrovan Jasenovo polje the road to avnik, 5
km from the junction; the only house on the left side of the road.
Elevation difference: about 800 m
Route description: The trailhead is next to the house, on the left.
Cross the first clearing diagonally and then walk shortly through the
wood to another clearing. The path will soon meet up with the
forest track leading to the katun of Vio do. [*katun = shepherds
huts or cottages; do = small field] When you reach it, turn left and
walk along the edge of the field towards the passage (NW). Follow
the trail to the left for about 100 meters, cross the road, and enter a
beautiful (and conspicuous) path through the forest. As you see on
the map, this path is actually a longish shortcut. When you get to
the road again, turn right and follow it to the first junction. (Also
see the note and map.) Take the right track and stay on it until you
notice the path branching off to the left and rising to the macadam
road above you. It will take you straight to tirni do. If you miss
that path, leave the road you have been following anyway and head
uphill, because your road will, as well as the one you are climbing to, suddenly stop in the forest after a few hundred meters. Now
you should already be able to see the entire route of the last part of
this tour which, of course, starts from the katun. The trail to the top
is hardly visible, but the waymarks are very clear. They do not lead
directly uphill (as shown on the map) but a bit to the right and then
along the ridge. In the final section of the ascent you will have only
a couple of options, but probably the best thing to do is to follow
the recognizable path to the summit.
If the weather is clear, from Vojnik you can see the greater
part of Montenegro. Those who are physically fit can prolong this
tour by descending to the saddle (E) from which the neighbouring
Gradni vrh can be easily approached. (Circular tour)
Additional notes: All the trails on this mountain (including the one
not described in this Guide to the peak Troglav, 1673 m) are re-

16

gularly cleaned and marked.


The terrain is waterless, and the only place where you can
find snow during summer month is the depression near Gradni vrh.

Vojnik, Gradni vrh & Mramorje

17

VOJNIK Gradni vrh 1967mnv, Mramorje 1920 mnv


Period: Januar-decembar. Najljepi za penjanje su maj i septembar,
a u avgustu na Sedlu moete probati i borovnice.
Prilaz: Isti kao i za Vojnik.
Visinska razlika: oko 770 m

Opis ture: Prvi dio ture, do Vio dola, je isti kao i za Vojnik. Dolazite do katuna i preko livade se upuujete ka kolibi na rubu bukove
ume. Prolazite pored nje i slijedite stazu kroz umu, uz vododerinu
prema prevoju Mramorovi (1673). Nakon petnaestak minuta izlazite na travnato-kamenitu padinu vrha Mramorje i nastavljate naporan
uspon do stjenovitog grebena (na slici lijevo od vrha). Ako ne elite
da penjete Mramorje, jednostavno ga proite i izmeu kleka krenite
u pravcu Sedla bez velikog padanja (ili penjanja u povratku). Sa
Sedla odraujete posljednji dio uspona i stiete na Gradni vrh po
(ne samo) mom miljenju, jedan od ljepih u Crnoj Gori. Da biste
se u to i uvjerili, poslije kratkog odmora produite grebenom nanie
i udesno (nema potrebe da penjete prvi vrh na koji naiete) sve dok
vam se ne ukae izvanredan pogled na Gradni vrh i okolinu.
Do Vio dola se moete vratiti starom, pomalo zaraslom (a
u donjem dijelu praktino i nepostojeom) stazom koja sa Sedla ide
kanalom prema jugu i direktno se sputa kroz umu u Do.
Napomena: Izvor koji je ucrtan na karti je samo sezonska pojava
dok na planini ima snijega.

18

VOJNIK Gradni vrh 1967 m, Mramorje 1920 m


Season: January-December; but the best months to climb these
peaks are May and September.
Access: Niki Brezovik Vidrovan Jasenovo polje the road
to avnik 5 km. There is a parking space near the only house on
the left side of the road.
Elevation difference: about 770 m

Route description: The first part of the route is the same as for Vojnik. When you reach Vio do, go across the field to the cottage at
the edge of beech forest. Pass it from the left side and follow the
conspicuous trail which goes uphill (little to the right), through the
forest, and on to the pass Mramorovi (1673 m). Once you get out of
the forest, you may decide to climb the peak Mramorje (with its
never-ending grassy-rocky slope), descend to Sedlo, and finally
climb Gradni vrh. [vrh = peak] Or, you can only go up to the stony
ridge (left from the main peak; see the picture of Mramorje), walk
around it, and get to Sedlo directly, without a significant height loss
very important on your way back.
Gradni vrh is one of the finest peaks in Montenegro, but
you might not get that impression unless you do the following: rest
for a while at the top and then start descending along the ridge (W).
After a few hundred meters you will have a magnificent view of the
peak you have just come down from.

19

On your way back


you do not have to follow the same route. If
you prefer, you can use
the older, today almost
forgotten and sporadically overgrown path to
the south which begins
from the saddle /Sedlo,
goes through the gully,
and descends steeply to
Vio do.
Additional notes: The
spring which is shown
on the map is now just
a short seasonal phenomenon; you will not be
able to find it after the snow melts. If you find yourself at Sedlo in
August or September be sure to taste the blueberries!

Vojnik the north side / Vojnik sjeverna strana

20

VOJNIK etiri manja vrha


Gola strana 1576 mnv
Prilaz: Niki Vidrovan Jasenovo polje put za Pluine. Tano
3 km od skretanja za avnik i abljak, na desnoj strani ete primijetiti oznaku, proirenje i kratak put do male livade.
Visinska razlika: oko 580 m
Opis ture: Parkirajte, krenite prema istoku i uite
u konjsku stazu
kojom stiete do
irokog umskog
puta. Idete lijevo
do njegovog kraja, a zatim produavate navie stazom (sva skretanja su oznaena)
kroz nekadanji Katun Todorovia da bi se opet ukljuili u jedan
stari, slabo korieni umski put koji e vas dovesti do prevoja i
raskrsnice. (Na slici to je desno od glavnog vrha.) Slijedite kratko
lijevi krak i zavrite uspon travnato-kamenitom padinom.
Nema potrebe da u gornjem dijelu prilaza vrhu naputate
pomenuti stari put i traite preice, jer je teren izuzetno teak. Samo
ete sebi pokvariti dan.

Veliki tuoc 1654 mnv, Mali Vojnik 1773 mnv


Prilaz: Niki Jasenovo polje put za Pluine prevoj Javorak
(1230) skretanje za ivu desno (8,2 km od raskrsnice Pluineavnik). Do katuna iva jo 2 km makadama. Ako je put blokiran,
parkirate na livadi, ako nije, nastavljate jo oko 1.5 km do zatravljenog proirenja, lijeva str. puta. Na razdvajanjima (2) idete desno.
Visinska razlika: oko 415 m i 530 m
Opis ture: Hodate putem kroz izuzetno lijepu umu (ivsko razdolje) u pravcu Vojnika, a onda lijevo, preicama i putem postepeno u

21

visinu sve dok ne doete do poveeg proirenja na kom su ranije


odlagana posjeena stabla. Na izlasku iz krivine, na desnoj strani je
poetak stare staze kroz umu prema vrhu Mali Vojnik.
Ako elite da
popnete nii, ali
ljepi i pristupaniji Vel. tuoc,
produite putem
do prevoja. Kad
pored puta ugledate ostatke sruene drvene upe, proite ih sa lijeve strane i uite u kratku umsku
stazu do vrha sa kog imate dobar pogled na kanjon Komarnice, masiv Durmitora, Pivu, Goliju...

Jablan brdo 1774 mnv


Prilaz: Niki Jasenovo polje put za avnik tunel Vojnik. Parkirati na proirenju sa desne strane puta, prije tunela.
Visinska razlika: oko 250 m

Opis ture: Preite put i krenite uzbrdo prema sjeverozapadu, lijevo


od tunela. Stazom, prosjeenom kroz umu, dolazite sa druge strane
grebena i izlazite na istinu. Nakon toga moete zanemariti oznake
i popeti i sve vrhove koji se nalaze na putu do Jablan brda. Fotografija glavnih vrhova je napravljena sa Golopusa (1744 m), koga
markirana staza zaobilazi to je dobro na povratku.

22

VOJNIK Four lower peaks


Gola strana 1576 m
Access: Niki Vidrovan Jasenovo polje the road to Pluine.

Elevation difference: about 580 m


Route description: Exactly 3 kilometres from the turning to avnik,
there is a short side-road on the right leading to a small field. Park
the car and follow a good forest path (E) until you get to a forest
road. Now go left, up the road. When it ends, follow the path again
through Katun Todorovia. Eventually, it will join the rarely used
and overgrown track going to the pass, south-east from the main
peak. Take the left track at the junction and after about a hundred
meters start climbing the grassy and rocky slope.
Leaving the forest track in the upper section of the access
to the peak and looking for shortcuts is not advised.

23

Veliki tuoc 1654 m, Mali Vojnik 1773 m


Access: Niki Vidrovan Jasenovo polje Javorak (1230 m).
The turning to iva is on the right, 8.2 km from Pluine avnik
junction. Follow the macadam road for about 3.5 km and park the
car in the clearing on the left. At both forks go right.
Elevation difference: about 415 m and 530 m
Route description: Walk along the road (through a beautiful forest)
towards Mt Vojnik (E). Go left at the junction and continue uphill (marked shortcuts). When you get to a large clearing, you will
notice the beginning of the old forest trail leading in the direction of
Mali Vojnik.
However, if you
wish to climb Vel.
tuoc, follow the
road until you
reach the pass. Go
past the remains
of a wooden shed
to the left and enter a short path through the wood. It will take you to the barren
slope of the peak from which you can have wonderful views of the
Komarnica canyon, Piva, Burukovac, Durmitor, Golija

Jablan brdo 1774 m


Access: Niki Jasenovo polje the road to avnik. Park the car
before the tunnel, at the widening on the right side of the road.
Elevation difference: about 250 m
Route description: Cross the road and head diagonaly for the ridge
and the edge of the forest (NW). The part of the route through the
forest is marked, but after that you do not need to follow the path
any more on our way to Jablan brdo [brdo = hill] (the picture on
page 22) we always climb a chain of lower peaks.

24

GACKOVE GREDE 2004 mnv


Period: april-novembar
Prilaz: 1. Niki Lukovo Gvozd Krnovo (vjetrenjae);
2. Niki Vidrovan Jasenovo polje put za avnik
Gradaka poljana Krnovo. Skretanje za Gradaku poljanu je na
desnoj strani puta, nekoliko stotina metara prije tunela.

Prije nego su izgraene vjetrenjae, automobil smo obino


ostavljali u podnoju Vjetrenih brda (na mjestu na kom se put iz
pravca Gradake poljane spaja sa starim putem Niki avnik,
pored naputene kue/ex-kafane), a onda je slijedila etnja, nekih 5
km do poetka uspona. Meutim, danas, ako sa raskrsnice produite
desno par stotina metara, aonda lijevo dobrim makadamom uzbrdo,
pored vjetrenjaa, i manje izdrljivim automobilom moete doi do
samog podnoja Gackovih greda (JI).
Visinska razlika: oko 400 m
Opis ture: Uspon je lagan i uglavnom se kreete travnatim padinama lijevom stranom planine. Ovaj predio je najljepi u proljee,
a posebna atrakcija je snijeni smet (Vratlo) kojim se tokom aprila i
maja moete skoro od vrha planine sputiti do podnoja na kratkim
skijama, atorskom krilu, ili se jednostavno klizati. Ipak, poto se

25

smet prua prema zapadu, a vi ste doli sa sjeverozapada, poeljno


je da ne idete sve do dna, jer ete tako zavriti sa suprotne strane
Mlijenih brda. (Vidi kartu.)

Sa glavnog vrha Gackovih greda moete nastaviti kretanje


prema istoku i popeti neto vii i poznatiji Veliki urim (2035).

Na vrhu Gackovih greda / Gackove grede, the summit

Napomena: Na lijevoj strani makadamskog puta kroz Krnovo polje


nalazi se Ostrvica (1836) koja podsjea na ogromnog kita. To je
omiljeno mjesto ljubitelja paraglajdinga, ali i lijepa tura za sve one
koji tek poinju da planinare. Nakon posjete vrhu postepeno silazite
prema zapadu, u pravcu Krnovske glavice (1634) ispod koje se nalazi nekoliko Krnovskih vrela.

26

GACKOVE GREDE 2004 m


Season: April-November
Access: 1. Niki Lukovo Krnovo polje (windmills)
2. Niki Vidrovan Jasenovo polje the road to avnik
Gradaka poljana Krnovo polje. The turning to Gradaka poljana is on the right, a few hundred meters before the tunnel.
If you do not mind walking about 5 km over the meadows
of Vjetrena brda until you reach the foothills of Gackove grede
[grede = cliffs/crags], you can park the car where the road from
Gradaka poljana joins the old Niki - avnik road (an uninhabited
house on the left). However, if you do mind, go right at the crossroads and after a few hundred meters turn left a good macadam
road. Continue driving beside the windmills until you decide it is
enough. Gackove grede are in front of you (SE).
Elevation difference: about 400 m
Route description: This is a fairly easy tour and most of the time
you climb grassy slopes. The area is particularly beautiful in June,
and a special attraction in April or May is the snowdrift (Vratlo)
down which you can ski, or simply slide. However, since the snowdrift is facing west, and you have come from the north-west, avoid
going all the way down to the bottom, because you might end on
the other side of Mlijena brda. (See the map.)
If you are up
to it, or if you
have driven a
few kilometers
along the macadam road (to
the foothills of
the mountain),
you can climb
Gackove grede
first, and then
proceed to the east towards a little higher and more famous Veliki
urim (2035).

27

Additional notes: On the left side of Krnovo polje you will notice
Ostrvica (1836) which reminds people of an enormous whale. It is
the favourite place of paragliding lovers from Niki and also a nice
tour for everyone who is about to start mountaineering. On your
way back from the top, you can descend gradually towards the west
in the direction of Krnovska glavica (1634 m) where you will find
several springs called Krnovska vrela.

Gackove grede

28

TRPEZARIJA 2032 mnv


Period: april-novembar
Prilaz: Kao i u prethodnom opisu. Prelazite Krnovo polje cijelom
duinom (oko 5 km) dok ne doete na sam kraj Ostrvice.
Visinska razlika: oko 630 m (iz tirnog dola)

Opis ture: Poto je u pitanju relativno kratka tura, automobil moete ostaviti na livadi prije nego (lo) put pone da se sputa prema
katunu tirni do (drugi od nekoliko istoimenih u Crnoj Gori). Ali
opet, ako ne elite da se na kraju dana penjete do njega, ili imate
terensko vozilo, moete se lijevim krakom puta sputiti u sam Do,
parkirati i odatle poeti uspon vrlo loim traktorskim putem oko
brda Leakovci. Nakon toga slijedi ravniji dio i put ide dalje prema
katunima ispod Lole. Trpezarija je na desnoj strani. Birate najlaki
put travnatim padinama ka glavnom, odnosno daljem vrhu. U posljednjem dijelu uspona je potrebno prei jedan kratki, ali otkriveni dio grebena i malo koncentracije nije na odmet.
Kad se odmorite, sa
vrha idete grebenom prema Crvenom
drijelu (JI), a onda
silazite lijevo do izvora Korita. Da bi
se vratili na put kojim ste doli potrebno je savladati krai uspon i proi izmeu Parinoge i Trpezarije.

29

Trpezarija i dio puta do Lole


Trpezarija and a part of the route to Lola

30

TRPEZARIJA 2032 m
Season: April-Novembar
Access: 1. Niki Lukovo Gvozd Krnovo polje
2. Niki Vidrovan Jasenovo polje the road to avnik
Gradaka poljana Potrk Krnovo polje. Drive all the way to the
end of Krnovo polje and Ostrvica (5 km).
Elevation difference: about 630 m, from tirni do.
Route description: Since this is a (relatively) short tour, you can
park the car at the grassy
area before the road starts
going down to tirni do
another place/katun with
this name in Montenegro
(and there are few more).
But if you do not feel like
climbing back to it at the
end of the day, and/or you
have an all-terrain vehicle,
drive to the junction, turn
left, and follow the road.
Eventually, park the car in
the field ~ 50 meters away
from the last house on the right. The trail or, to be precise, a very
rough mountain road, goes uphill around Leakovci and continues
in the direction of Mt Lola. Leave the road before it enters the flatter grassy area on the left, turn towards the south-east, take a good
look at Trpezarija, and chose the best (or the easiest) way to the
summit. There is a short section of the trail, just before the peak,
which is slightly exposed so do not hurry.
After spending some time at the top, proceed along the
ridge towards the pass Crveno drijelo. There turn left and go down
to the spring Korita. In order to get back to the road you have come
by climb the pass between Parinoga (right) and Trpezarija (left) and
then walk in the direction of Leakovci.

31

LOLA Veliki Zebalac 2129 mnv


Period: maj-oktobar
Prilaz: 1. Niki Lukovo Potrk Krnovo polje tirni do
2. Niki Jasenovo polje put za avnik Gradaka
poljana Potrk Krnovo polje tirni do
Visinska razlika: oko 730 m (iz tirnog dola)

Opis ture: Automobil ostavljate u tirnom dolu i idete putem oko


Leakovaca. (Karta za Trpezariju.) Obilazite brdo Parinoga sa lijeve
strane (moete ii sve putem, ali i preicama) i dolazite do malog
(srednjevjekovnog) groblja. Odatle nastavljate desnim krakom traktorskog puta, pored lokve, i pratite ga uzbrdo sve dok ne zavrite
uspon. Tu naputate put i prolazite prvu kuu sa desne, a sljedeu sa
lijeve strane i tako ulazite u vidljivu stazu prema izvoru koji zovemo 8 korita u podnoju velikog sipara Velikog Zebalca. Vrh
se nalazi ispred vas, prema istoku. Lijevo od izvora je staza kojom
izlazite na prevoj, a zatim skreete desno i grebenom se upuujete
paljivo ka vrhu, jer se u prvom dijelu zavrnog uspona kreete
preko klizavog, krljivog terena.
Napomena: Voda sa izvora 8 korita (od kojih je u jesen 2012. bilo
est u funkciji) je sigurno jedna od najboljih u Crnoj Gori. Ali,
ako ste se na ovom terenu zatekli u maju, ili poetkom juna, vrlo je
velika vjerovatnoa da izvor neete nai, jer se nalazi ispod debelog
snijenog nameta.

32

V. Zebalac & Lijevno

* Za drugu varijantu uspona na V. Zebalac pogledati opis i kartu za


Lijevno.

33

LOLA Veliki Zebalac 2129 m


Season: May-October
Access: 1. Niki Lukovo Gvozd Krnovo polje tirni do.
2. Niki Vidrovan Jasenovo polje the road to avnik
Gradaka poljana Potrk Krnovo polje tirni do
Elevation difference: about 730 m (from tirni do)

Lola sa Krutaa / Mt Lola from Kruta

Route description: Park the car in tirni do. Follow the road going
around Leakovci and continue in the direction of Lola. Walk past
the hill Parinoga and take a look at a small medieval cemetery.
Turn right at the fork and stay on that road until you climb the hill.
Now leave the road and go straight ahead. Your destination is right
in front of you (E). Pass the first house from the right side and the
next one from the left. In that way you will enter the path leading to
the spring called Osam korita (8 troughs) at the foothill of Vel. Zebalac. The trail to the
saddle starts from the
source (to the left) and
it is well-established.
At the saddle turn right and walk towards
the ridge. Be careful
in the first section of
the ascent, since the
soil is very loose and
slippery. (See the map of Trpezarija for the first part of the route.)

34

Additional notes: The water from Osam korita (actually, the last
two have recently gone out of order) is surely one of the best and
coolest in Montenegro. However, if you decide to climb V. Zebalac
in May or the first half of June, it is very likely that you will not be
able to find the spring, because it is under a couple meters of snow.

If you feel like it and there is enough time, you can also
climb Mali Zebalac (2065).
* In the following description of Lijevno you will find one more
option for climbing Veliki Zebalac.

Veliki Zebalac sa Lijevna u junu


Veliki Zebalac from Lijevno in June

35

LOLA Lijevno 2081 mnv


Period: maj-oktobar
Prilaz: Niki avnik Boan Krnja Jela prevoj Semolj
Buum Javorje. (~ 80 km)
Visinska razlika: oko 440 m

Opis ture: Poetak markirane staze, t.j. makadama, je na desnoj


strani puta poslije prevoja i lako ga je uoiti. (16 km od raskrsnice
Boan - abljak.) Meutim, ne morate poeti turu odatle, ve moete
produiti makadamom jo 1.5 km do (Buum) Javorja i parkirati na
livadi blizu prve kue na lijevoj strani. Kad doete u Ljevike bare
naputate markiranu stazu/put (jer vodi prema Velikom Zebalcu),
kreete ukoso u pravcu gornjeg sipara u sredini planine, obilazite ga
sa lijeve strane i izlazite na greben, a
zatim i sam vrh.
Napomene: Na karti je ucrtana moja
staza koja ne slijedi
put, ve prati liniju
planine, postepeno
se penjui prema grebenu. Pogledati i fotografije na strani 38.
Na povratku moete sii sa druge strane vrha, posjetiti malo
jezero (SI), a zatim se livadama vratiti do puta.
* Za drugu varijantu ove ture vieti kartu na strani 33.

36

LOLA Lijevno 2081 m


Season: May-October
Access: Niki avnik Boan Krnja Jela the pass Semolj
Buum Javorje. (~ 80 km)
Elevation difference: about 440 m

Route description: The trailhead is 16 km away from Boan - abljak junction. Actually, it is the beginning of the macadam road
branching off to the right after the pass. It is easily noticed, but you
do not have to start walking from there drive another 1.5 km and
park the car in the field near the first house on the left. The trail/

37

road is marked, and you can follow it all the way to Ljevike bare.
However, when you get there, leave the marked path (because it
leads in the direction of Vel. Zebalac) and head for the upper scree
in the middle of Lijevno. Walk around it from the left and climb the
ridge as shown in the picture on page 36.

Lijevno sa Malog Zebalca / Lijevno from Mali Zebalac

The views are amazing. Lijevno is surrounded with higher


mountains from three sides, and there is a small lake at its foothill
(NE) which you can visit on your way back.
Additional note: The route shown on the map does not follow the
road but the unmarked path which goes directly to the foothills and
then diagonally climbs the western slope of the peak.

* Lijevno can also be reached from the west. See the description of
Veliki Zebalac and the map on page 33.

38

BOROVNIK 1935 mnv


Period: Mart-novembar (ili tokom cijele godine, zavisno od visine i
tvrdoe snijega).
Varijanta 1:
Prilaz: Niki Rubea Lukovo ski centar Vuje
Visinska razlika: oko 450 m

Opis ture: Automobil ostaviti na parkingu ski centra, a onda krenuti makadamom (iza motela). Ako ne elite da idete zaputenom
preicom, pratite put (na razdvajanju desno) sve dok ne izaete na
visoravan Konjsko. Borovnik je pred vama (I). Uivate u etnji, ne
gubei visinu, i za neto vie od sat vremena stiete do podnoja
planine dijelom koristei postojee poljske puteve. Uspon poinjete
lijevom, neto istijom, ali ipak nezgodnom kamenito-klekovitom
stranom, i izlazite na travnati greben. Odatle nastavljate kretanje u
pravcu sljedeeg, malog vrha. Obilazite ga sa lijeve strane i ukoso
se penjete desnom stranom padine ka glavnom vrhu.
Varijanta 2:
Prilaz: Niki Rubea Liverovii Krstovae (lijevo i uzbrdo,
put od kaldrme) Zagrad Konjsko (lijevi krak asfaltnog puta).
Automobil parkirati na livadi pored puta, a zatim slijedi uspon kao
u varijanti 1. (!) Put nije prohodan tokom zimskih mjeseci.
Napomena: Borovnik je idealna planina za upoznavanje terena i
planiranje tura. Pogled sa vrha prema Morakim planinama i Maganiku je naroito lijep tokom proljenih mjeseci.

39

BOROVNIK 1935 m
Season: March-November (or all year round, depending on the
depth and quality of the snow).
Option 1:
Access: Niki Rubea Lukovo Vuje, ski resort
Elevation difference: about 450 m
Route description: Leave the car in the parking lot and then follow
the macadam road which starts immediately behind the Motel. If
you do not want to use a well marked but poorly maintained shortcut (lots of fallen branches), turn right at the junction and stay on
that road until you get out of the forest. Borovnik is in front of you
(E). Walk over the meadows of Konjsko and enjoy the scenery. Do
not lose height; use the gravel track for a short while, and you will
reach the foothills of the mountain in a little more than an hour. The
ascent is usually made up the clearer (but, nevertheless, rocky and
bushy) left side of Borovnik. After reaching the grassy ridge, go
around the first, small peak from the left side and then diagonally
continue towards the main peak, which is immediately behind the
one shown in the picture below.

Option 2:
Access: Niki Rubea Liverovii Krstovae (left and uphill,
the road is paved with cobblestones) Zagrad Konjsko. When
you get out of the forested area, turn left at the fork, and drive on

40

for about a kilometer. Park the car in the field, and then follow the
ascent route described in option 1.

Borovnik prilaz br. 2 / Borovnik approach No 2

Additional notes: Borovnik is the ideal mountain to climb when


you want to get to know the area and plan other tours. The views
from the top are particularly beautiful in April or May.

The access road suggested in option 2 cannot be used during winter


months.

41

MALI i VELIKI URIM (1962 mnv i 2035 mnv)


Period: maj-novembar
Prilaz: Niki Rubea Krstovae Zagrad Konjsko Bojovia bare kraj asfaltnog puta, katuni u podnoju M. urima. (Oko
30 km) Ostaviti automobil kod spomenika. Mali urim je tano
ipred vas (SI), a Veliki je lijevo od njega.
Visinska razlika: od parkinga do V. urima oko 400 m

Opis ture: Krenite siparom (desna strana M. urima), ili jo bolje,


stazom koja izmeu kua vodi prema istoku do (neprimjetnog) prolaza iznad Zagarakog katuna. Kad izaete na prevoj upuujete se
lijevo i poinjete uspon sa sjeveroistone strane. Dio ispod vrha je
malo tei, ali nije potrebna nikakva posebna oprema.
Slijedi sputanje, pa opet lijevo ka naputenom Piperskom
katunu (zovemo ga selo Inka) i konano ulazite u stazu kojom se
penjete na Veliki urim. Posljednji dio uspona ide travnatom padinom. Izbjegavajte kretanje samom ivicom.
Nakon boravka na vrhu sputate se istim putem, ali samo
do sela Inka odakle skreete na jugozapad. Pronalazite potok koji
tee izmeu urimova i pratite ga dok ne doete do lijepih vodopada. Tu se moete odmoriti, ali i osvjeiti na izvoru u blizini poetka
vodopada, u pravcu Vel. urima. Do automobila se vraate stazom
ispod sipara, zavravajui tako kruni obilazak M. urima.
Naravno, ovi vrhovi se, u zavisnosti od grupe i vremena,
mogu peti i kao dvije zasebne ture.

42

MALI and VELIKI URIM (1962 m and 2035 m)


Season: May-November
Access: Niki Rubea Krstovae Zagrad Konjsko Bojovia bare [bare = marshes] the end of the asphalt road, at the
foothill of Mali urim. (~ 30 km) Park the car near the tombstone.
Mali urim is in front of you and Veliki urim is on the left.
Elevation difference: about 400 m (form the parking to V. urim)

Route description: Go towards the scree slope on the right side of


M. urim or, even better, use the lower trail leading to the passage
above Zagaraki katun. When you reach the pass, turn left and start
climbing the north-east face of the peak. The last part of the ascent
is a bit difficult, but there is no need for additional gear.
Go down the same way and then
descend further to the north, towards
Piperski katun or, as we call it, the
village of the Incas. Enter one of the
trails which will get you to the grassy
slope of Veliki urim. Even though it
is tempting, avoid moving along the
edge. Do what you usually do at the
peak and then retrace your steps, but
only as far as Piperski katun. There
head south-west, find the stream and
follow it until you reach a beautiful cascade. About 20 meters away
from the beginning of the cascade, to the right (if you are facing

43

SW), there is a spring. You can refresh yourself there.


In order to finish this tour and get back to your car, you
have to follow the trail to the south running along the foothill of
Mali urim at the bottom of the (talus) slope.
* Of course, this description is only a suggestion there is
really no need to climb both of these peaks in one day.

Mali & Veliki urim

44

ILIJIN VRH 2051 mnv, NIKOLIN VRH 1984 mnv


Period: maj-novembar
Prilaz: Niki Konjsko Bojovia bare Mali urim
Visinska razlika: oko 420 m (Ilijin vrh)

Opis ture: Penjete se ve pomenutom stazom prema prolazu iznad


Zagarakog katuna i stiete na prevoj. Masiv Ilijinog vrha je ispred
vas (I). Ako ste doli siparom uz Mali urim najbolje je da odmah
krenete nadesno kako bi izbjegli dugu uvalu izmeu tog vrha, ivaljeve glavice i kote 1946 i ukljuili se u jaku stazu koja ide podnojem Ilijinog vrha. Ubrzo primjeujete krak koji se odvaja i pored
povee kose stjenovite ploe ide u pravcu prevoja (JI). Pratite ga i
posmatrajte teren. Postoji vie prolaza na lijevo, prema vrhu. Izaberite jedan i nastavite uspon travnatim padinama sa kamenim pregradama. Od Ilijinog vrha se postepeno sputate pratei pruanje grebena, a onda naglo penjete Nikolin vrh i dolazite na mjesto sa kog
se prua lijep pogled na Kapetanovo jezero i okolne planine.
* Na karti je ucrtana i druga, jednostavnija tzv. lijeva varijanta.
Napomena: U pogledu na Kapetanovo jezero moete uivati i sa
etkovog vrha, 2036 mnv. Pratite stazu podnojem Ilijinog vrha.
Kad doete na prevoj (put ka Kapetanovom jez.) imate dvije mogunosti: a) odmah sa prevoja krenuti travnatom padinom ukoso
navie, prvo udesno, pa lijevo, zatim opet udesno i tako izai na
greben...; b) izai na gornji prevoj (lijevo), obii manji vrh sa desne
strane i produiti grebenom prema glavnom vrhu.

45

ILIJIN VRH 2051 m, NIKOLIN VRH 1984 m


Season: May-November
Access: Niki Konjsko Bojovia bare Mali urim
Elevation difference: about 420 m (Ilijin vrh)

Route description: Use the already mentioned trail leading to the


passage above Zagaraki katun. When you get to the pass, Ilijin vrh
is in front of you, to the east. There is a conspicuous trail running
along the foothills of the mountain. You will soon notice the track
branching off in the direction of the pass (south-east). Follow it and
observe the terrain. There are several passages to the left leading
towards the main peak. Choose one of them and climb the grassy
slope intersected with rocky walls. After a short rest at the summit
head south-east, along the ridge, and get ready for the final part of
the tour: the ascent of Nikolin
vrh. That is one of the places
which offer wonderful views
of Kapetanovo jezero and the
surrounding mountains.
Additional note: Another peak
from which you can enjoy the
view of Kapetanovo jezero is
etkov vrh (2036 m). It can be
reached if you follow the trail
which goes along the foothills

46

of Ilijin vrh towards the east. If you take a look at the map, you will
see two options for climbing this peak: left and right. However, the
one which starts from the lower pass is perhaps a bit easier and, in
my opinion, better.

Ilijin, Nikolin & etkov vrh

47

STOAC Stoac 2141 mnv


Period: maj-novembar
Prilaz: Niki Konjsko Kapetanovo jezero. Vozilo, bilo bi dobro da je terensko zbog posljednjih 6 kilometara od Bara Bojovia
do Jezera, parkirati na livadi, ili pored vikend kuice na lijevoj strani prije posljednje uzbrdice prema Kapetanovom jezeru.
Visinska razlika: oko 500 m

Opis ture: Kad doete do jezera, staza i uspon poinju sa njegove


desne strane, prema istoku. Staza je veim dijelom prilino jasna,
ali se nakon prevoja razdvaja. Desno je put za Manito jezero, a vi
nastavljate pravo, ispod greda. Prelazite kratku dionicu neto krupnijeg izlomljenog kamenja i idete preko sipara ka prolazu. Ulazite
u drijelo i pratite pruanje terena. Nakon Mljeevog dola (stjenoviti predio na desnoj strani) konano dolazite do travnatih padina i
birate jednu od par staza. Gornja vodi direktno ka glavnom vrhu,
bez velikog napora i uspona. (Manja slika u opisu na engleskom.)
Napomena: Stoac se
moe peti i od Manitog jez.: Bara lijevo
od Orlojevca prolaz
ispod Malog Stoca;
a takoe i sa desne (I)
strane Orlojevca: Jezerina M. Stoac Stoac. (Vidi kartu, str.52.)

48

STOAC Stoac 2141 m


Season: May-November
Access: Niki Konjsko Kapetanovo jezero. The last six kilometres of the macadam road from Bojovia bare (where the asphalt
turns left) to the lake are rather rough, so an all-terrain vehicle is
advised. Leave it in the field (or near the cottage on the left) there
is really no need to park the car at the shore of the lake.
Elevation difference: about 500 m
Route description: Walk along the road (uphill) in the direction of
the lake. The trail branches off to the right (E). It is very clear, but
after the pass it divides. Use the left track which goes along the crag
(the right one leads to Manito/Brnjiko jezero). Cross the short
talus section, enter the
passage, and then follow the path through
the gully. Eventually,
after passing Mljeev
do, (the rugged, stony
area on the right side)
it will take you to the
grassy slopes and you will notice a couple of trails. Personally, I
prefer the upper one, because it leads directly to the main peak,
without steep ascents. The views are excellent.

Additional note: Another way to climb Stoac is from Manito jezero. The route is as follows: Bara left from Orlojevac (2112)
the passage below Mali Stoac. There is also a trail around Orlojevac. (See the description of Bodiguz and the map.)

49

STOAC Bodiguz 1966 mnv


Period: maj-novembar
Prilaz: Isti kao i za Stoac.
Visinska razlika: oko 330 m
Opis ture: Parkirati na livadi pored puta, ili na proirenju ispred
pomenute kuice. Ne ii u pravcu Kapetanovog jezera, ve se vratiti
malo unazad i, obilazei movarni predio, doi do katuna koji se
nalazi ispod greda. Staza poinje iza kolibe, lijevo. Iako to na prvi
pogled izgleda malo vjerovatno, ubrzo izlazite na prevoj, a onda
idete desno, preko kamenitog terena, postepeno se sputajui do Brnjikog, ili Manitog jezera...
Nastavljate prema jugoistoku, pored Bare i ulazite u jaku
stazu ka Jezerini i nekadanjem katunitu Brnjik. Na desnoj strani,
vie od 1000 metara ispod vas, nalazi se selo Velje Duboko. Nema
potrebe da se zaustavljate i gledate, jer ete ubrzo zaista uivati u
idealnom pogledu. Moete zaobii prvi vrh na koji naiete sa lijeve
strane, ali, na alost, to vam ne znai puno, jer ete ipak morati da
izgubite nekih 70 metara u visini prije posljednjeg uspona.

Vrh Bodiguz je izuzetno lijepo mjesto i, osim ptije perspektive na Velje Duboko, nudi jo i sjajan pogled na Lukanje
elo, Tali, Maganik i ulaz u kanjon Mrtvice. Desno od zatravljene
lokve Jezerina (gledano sa vrha), prema Brnjiku, nalazi se izvor
koji radi i kad oni oko Jezerine presue.

50

STOAC Bodiguz 1966 m


Season: May-November
Access: The same as for Stoac.
Elevation difference: about 330 m

Route description: After parking the car in the field, do not go to


the lake. Walk back a little, go around a marshy area, and head for
the cottage at the bottom of the cliff. The trail starts behind it, to the
left, and even though it seems unlikely, it will definitely take you to
the pass. There turn right, some boulder-hopping is required if you
do not want to lose much height, and in a few minutes you will find
yourself above Manito jezero.

Proceed towards the south-east, pass the marsh Bara, and enter the
well-established trail leading to Jezerina and the (deserted) katun of
Brnjik.

51

Little more than a thousand meters below there is a village called


Velje Duboko. You can stop and have a look but there is really no
need for taking longer breaks, because you will soon enjoy the ideal
view. Likewise, do not climb the 1st peak you come across simply
walk around it from
the left. Unfortunately, you will still
lose some height (~
70 m) before the final ascent.
Besides a birdseye view of Velje
Duboko, Bodiguz also offers wonderful views of Lukanje elo,
Tali, the numerous peaks of Mt Maganik, and the beginning of the
Mrtvica canyon.

Stoac & Bodiguz

52

KAPA MORAKA Kruta 2132 mnv


Period: maj-novembar
Prilaz: Niki Zagrad Konjsko Bojovia bare kraj asfaltnog
puta (katuni u podnoju M. urima)
Visinska razlika: oko 500 m

Opis ture: Idete prema sjeveru siparom M. urima, a zatim pratite


stazu koja prolazi iznad Piperskog katuna. Obilazite brdo/kotu 1777
sa lijeve strane i nastavljate dalje obodom velike uvale (Dolovi), ne
gubei visinu. Tako u polukrugu dolazite do ljemen i staze koja
vodi preko tog lanca. Kad izaete na prevoj, pogledajte put sjeveroistoka i ugledaete jedan, do 2005. godine, rijetko posjeivani, neupadljivi travnati vrh to je Kruta.
Kreete dalje prema istoku, postepeno silazei, sve dok ne
primijetite prelaz ka ravnijem predjelu na lijevoj strani. Prolazite
kotu 1874 sa desne strane i dolazite do podnoja (ili ak do Ivanbegovog katuna). Birate jednu od nekoliko varijanti za uspon i nakon
30-tak minuta (ili vie, zavisno od spremnosti) stiete na... pravo
mjesto da shvatite zato se ovaj vrh zove kao to se zove.
Grebenom hodate do kraja i stajete potpuno iznenaeni
onim to vidite (i ujete).
Napomena: Najbolje vrijeme za posjetu ovom vrhu je period majpoetak juna, dok jo ima puno snijega po susjednim vrhovima.
(Vieti i Dodatak na kraju knjige.)

53

KAPA MORAKA Kruta 2132 m


Season: May-November
Access: Niki Zagrad Konjsko Bojovia bare the end of
the asphalt road (Mali urim)
Elevation difference: about 500 m

Route description: Go west, across the talus slope on the left side
of M. urim, and then follow the trail which goes above Piperski
katun. Now head for the elevation point 1777, pass it from the left
and proceed towards Dolovi without losing height. In that way you
will reach ljemena and the path running over it. When you get to
the ridge, take a look towards the north-east and you will see the

54

inconspicuous grassy peak which was rarely climbed by mountaineers before 2005 that is Kruta.

Continue to the south-east and follow the path gradually descending


to the flatter area on the left. Pass the elevation point 1874 from the
right and go to the foothills of the mountain in front of you (or even
to Ivanbegov katun). Choose one of several climbing routes and in
about 30 minutes (or more, depending on how fit you are) you will
reach the top and also the beginning of a short ridge. Walk carefully
to the end of the ridge you will be completely overwhelmed by
what you see and hear around and below this peak.
Additional notes: The best,
if not the only month to visit
Kruta is May (or the beginning of June). If there is still
plenty of snow on the neighbouring peaks, you will enjoy
the view of a small lake and a
magnificent waterfall coming
out of a cliff in Vragodo the
cirque which divides Mt Lola
and Kapa Moraka.
(Also see the Appendix.)

55

KAPA MORAKA Lastva 2226 mnv, tit 2191 mnv


Period: maj-novembar
Varijanta 1:
Prilaz: Niki Bare Bojovia kraj asfaltnog puta (M. urim)
Visinska razlika: oko 600 m

Opis ture: Prvi dio puta, do lanca ljemen i prevoja, je istovjetan


kao i u opisu za Kruta, mada moete koristiti i desnu varijantu
koja ide podnojem ivaljeve glavice i dalje do prelaza, lijevo od
nieg etkovog vrha. Pratiti teren i uputiti se ka velikim stjenovitim
ploama (1919), a zatim poeti uspon prema prevoju, desno od vrha
Zvornik (2156). Tu ve ulazite u jasnu stazu kojom stiete do cilja.
Nakon boravka/odmora na vrhu, moete se vratiti do uvala
iza vrha Zvornik i njihovim obodom nastaviti uspon na tit sa koga
imate sjajan pogled na Lastvu, Kruta, Vragodo...
Napomena: Sa tita se ne morate vraati na stazu za Lastvu. Postoji prolaz kroz koji se sputate u pravcu kote 1919.
Varijanta 2:
Prilaz: Niki Konjsko Kapetanovo jezero
Visinska razlika: 554 m
Opis ture: Slijediti put koji ide lijevom obalom jezera, a onda navie kroz Radojevu prodo. Na mjestu gdje se put razdvaja (s)krenuti
lijevo (sjever) prema prevoju izmeu Krsca (2098) i vrha Zvornik.
Idete direktno ka vrhu, ili se ukljuujete u stazu iz Varijante 1.

56

Lastva & tit

57

KAPA MORAKA Lastva 2226m, tit 2191 m


Season: May-November
Option 1:
Access: Niki Bare Bojovia the end of the asphalt road (at the
foothill of Mali urim)
Elevation difference: about 600 m

Route description: The first part of the route (to the range ljemena) is the same as in the previous description. You can see tit but
not Lastva. Follow the range and at the lowest section head for the
elevation point 1919. The terrain is very unusual you can walk
over large flat rocky areas or simply go around them and start the
ascent of the pass, below the peak Zvornik (2156). Once you get
there, the recognizable path will take you to your destination.
On your way
back from Lastva, you can also
visit tit. Follow
the ridge to the
west. Go around
a couple of large
depressions and
continue uphill
towards the peak
which offers wonderful views of neighbouring Lastva, Kruta, Vragodo, and other surrounding mountains.

58

Additional notes: From tit you do not have to return to the depressions and trail to Lastva there is a narrow passage (SE) through
which you can descend directly to the elevation point 1919. Yes, it
is a bit steep, but nothing to worry about.
Option 2:
Access: Niki Konjsko Kapetanovo jezero
Elevation difference: 554 m

Pristup vrhovima Lastva i Zagradac od Kapetanovog jezera


The approach to Lastva and Zagradac from Kapetanovo jezero

Route description: Follow the road which goes along the left shore
of the lake and then continues uphill through Radojeva prodo.
[prodo = passage] When you reach the fork at the end of the rise,
leave the road and go left/north towards the pass between Krstac
(2098) and Zvornik in order to join the trail from option 1. Or, if
you are looking for adventure, head directly for the peak.

59

KAPA MORAKA Zagradac 2217 mnv


Period: maj-novembar
Prilaz: Niki Konjsko Kapetanovo jezero
Visinska razlika: 545 m

Opis ture: Slijediti put koji ide lijevom obalom jezera, a zatim kroz
Radojevu prodo. (Vidi prethodnu fotografiju, Lastva, varijanta 2.)
Na kraju tog uspona put se razdvaja. Idete lijevo, odnosno pravo, i
nastavljate kretanje gore-dolje u pravcu sjeveroistoka. Zagradac je

60

posljednji vrh koji vidite (a zapravo pretposljednji) u lancu na lijevoj strani. Ostatak uspona je ucrtan na slici opis na engleskom.

Mnogi planinari smatraju da je ovaj vrh jedan od atraktivnijih u ovom dijelu Morakih planina, a iza njega su izazovni otri
ukljevi Pockog vrha koji, moda, ne bi trebalo da budu predmet
interesovanja obinih planinara.
Napomena: Staza nije previe zahtjevna, ali ipak posljednji dio ove
ture (hod uz stjenoviti zid i travnati zavretak uspona) treba odraditi
uz poveanu panju.

Zagradac sa Lastve / Zagradac from Lastva

* Karta za Zagradac je od pomoi i za sljedee dvije ture: Vojinovac i Staraka gradina, kao i za Lastvu, varijanta 2.

61

KAPA MORAKA Zagradac 2217 m


Season: May-November
Access: Niki Konjsko Kapetanovo jezero
Elevation difference: 545 m

Zagradac, pogled sa jugoistoka / Zagradac, the view from the south-east

Route description: Follow the road which goes along the left shore
of the lake and then continues uphill through Radojeva prodo. (See
the photo in the description of Lastva, option 2.) When you reach
the junction at the end of the rise, take the left track, i.e. go straight
ahead and proceed towards the north-east, elevation point 1925.
Zagradac is the highest (distant) peak of the mountain range on the
left. The rest of the route is shown in the picture.
Many mountaineers consider Zagradac as one of the most
attractive peaks of the mountains of Moraa.
Additional notes: The last part of the route should be climbed with
increased concentration. Once you get to the shoulder (right from
the summit) you will be able to see the sharp knuckles of Pocki
vrh. Ordinary mountaineers should avoid climbing these peaks
without additional equipment.
* The map of Zagradac is also useful for the tours on Vojinovac &
Staraka gradina, as well as for Lastva, option 2.

62

VOJINOVAC 2050 mnv


Period: maj-novembar
Prilaz: Niki Konjsko Kapetanovo jezero
Visinska razlika: 378 m

Opis ture: Put ide lijevom obalom jezera, a zatim kroz Radojevu
prodo. Na kraju uspona (prevoj Krstac, 1908 m) ne ii ni lijevim ni
desnim krakom puta, nego nastaviti livadom u pravcu planine iji
lijevi dio nedostaje to je Vojinovac. Tako ete ponovo doi do
puta (iznad katuna Markov mramor) i prirodnog prolaza koji vodi
do poetka greda. Odatle se penjete ka glavnom vrhu. Staza (ovija)
postoji, ali, na alost, prolazi ispod grebena. Jedna mogunost za
izlazak je prikazana na karti.

Staraka gradina, Tali, Lukanje elo, Vojinovac

63

VOJINOVAC 2050 m
Season: May-November
Access: Niki Konjsko Kapetanovo jezero
Elevation difference: 378 m

Route description: Follow the road which goes along the left shore
of the lake and then continues uphill through Radojeva prodo.
When you reach the junction at the end of the rise, leave the road(s)
and walk over grassy terrain in the direction of the mountain whose
left part is missing Vojinovac. In that way you will get to the
road again. Cross it and head for the beginning of the crag. There is
a clear path leading to the grassy area bellow the ridge/peak. One
ascent option is given on the map.

Vojinovac iz Dolova / Vojinovac from Dolovi

64

Vojinovac & Staraka gradina

65

STARAKA GRADINA 1975 mnv


Period: maj-novembar
Prilaz: Niki Konjsko Kapetanovo jezero
Visinska razlika: 303 m

Opis ture: Prvi dio ove ture je isti kao za Vojinovac sve do poetka
greda. Nastavljate preko sipara (ispod greda) i ulazite u stazu koja
e vas odvesti iza Vojinovca. Sa njene desne strane se nalaze dvije
jame u kojima uvijek ima snijega. Kad preete travnati prevoj, dalje
idete prema istoku lijevim, gornjim krakom staze. Kreete se goredolje, dijelom i preko stjenovitog terena, ali i nepogreivo dolazite
do jednog od naih omiljenih vrhova. Poloaj Starake gradine je
izuzetan, a samim tim i pogled na okolne planine i Gornju Morau.
Napomene: Za
ovaj vrh bi bilo
dobro da izaberete neki od istijih dana na
primjer, u septembru. U blizini,
juno od vrha, je
jezerce, odnosno
malo vea lokva (nije u pitanju Mileva lokva koju vidite na karti), a
tu su i ostaci nekadanjeg katuna.

66

STARAKA GRADINA 1975 m


Season: May-November
Access: Niki Konjsko Kapetanovo jezero
Elevation difference: 303 m

Route description: The first part of the tour is the same as for Vojinovac. But, when you get to the beginning of the crag, proceed
carefully across the scree slope. The trail will take you to the other
side of Vojinovac. From there head east and follow the left/upper
track of the path which switchbacks over rocky and grassy terrain
but also unmistakably leads to one
of our favourite peaks. The location of Staraka gradina is quite
extraordinary, and so are the views
of the surrounding mountains.
Additional notes: If you decide to
visit this peak, make sure that it is
one of the clearer spring or autumn
days. There is a small pond/lake in
the vicinity, but it is not Mileva
lokva which is shown on the map.
You will also see the remains of
the katun after which this peak got its name and a couple of snow
pits.

67

LUKANJE ELO 2049 mnv


Period: maj-septembar
Prilaz: Niki Konjsko Kapetanovo jezero Krstac
Visinska razlika: Izmeu polazne take i vrha je 140 m, ali se tokom puta sputate na visinu od oko 1700 m, dakle: oko 350 m.

Opis ture: Dobrim terencem moete putem kroz Radojevu prodo


izai na prevoj (Krstac, 1908). Nastavite dalje pjeke do Vojinovca,
a onda podnojem postepeno navie prema jugoistoku. Pratite teren
i kad doete do lokve (na Ravnoj utlici) odaberite stazu koja ide
njenim desnim obodom. Prelazite na drugu stranu planine i stiete
do spomen obiljeja Vidu Novakoviu, planinaru iz Srbije. Tu jasna
staza prestaje. Preko kamenog odrona, a zatim i nepokretnih, izbrazdanih stjenovitih ploa produite ka nastavku staze i dalje
prema prevoju Prelijes izmeu Lukanjeg ela i Tali (2063). Zavrni
uspon moete odraditi travnatom padinom od sipar u podnoju,
kosinom od Prelijesa, grebenom (uz oprez) od Prijevora prevoj/
prelaz prema Velje Dubokom; a moda najbolja varijanta je data na
karti. U svakom sluaju, pogled je odlian.
Napomena: Od Kapetanovog jezera do podnoja Lukanjeg ela i
natrag ima oko 20 km. Dakle, sa zavrnim usponom i nisponom
ukupno ~7 sati hoda za dobro spremnu grupu.
Planina Tali (2063) se obino ne penje iz ovog pravca, iako
je to, kau, izvodljivo.

68

Lukanje elo (Vidi i prethodnu kartu.)

69

LUKANJE ELO 2049 m


Season: May-September
Access: Niki Konjsko Kapetanovo jezero Krstac
Elevation difference: 140 m between the starting point and the
peak, but the ascent of Lukanje elo starts from ~1700 m.

Route description: If you possess a strong all-terrain vehicle, drive


all the way through Radojeva prodo and park at the pass called Krstac (1908). Head for Vojinovac and then traverse its slope towards
the south-east. When you get to the pond at the pass (Ravna utlica)
choose the right path and cross to the other side of the mountain.
Descend gradually in the direction of the distant saddle between
Lukanje elo and Tali (2063). Go past a boulder section and walk
over rugged, stony terrain. In that way you will join the path coming from Doli (katun).
It will take you to the
the foothill of L. elo.
There are 2 or 3 ascent
options one of them
is shown on the map.
Additional note: The
route to the pass Prelijes/foothill of Lukanje
elo and back is about 20 km long. However, a well prepared group
can reach and climb this peak in about 3.5 hours.

70

TALI Ruda glava 2020 i Kule 2063 mnv


Period: maj-oktobar
Prilaz: Niki Podgorica 2,7 km nakon manastira Moraa je
oznaeno skretanje za selo Osreci Ropunica (3 km asfalt i 9 km
loeg makadama).
Visinska razlika: oko 660 m

Opis ture: Po dolasku u Ropunicu parkirati, a onda ii umskim


putem do istine i pratiti desnu, davno markiranu stazu koja e vas
dovesti na sedlo izmeu Rude glave i Kul (mada blii vrh danas
zovu i Kokoija glava).
Padina koju
penjete prilino je strma, a i sam
greben koji
vodi prema
glavnom vrhu je uzak,
zahtjevan i ne smije se uriti. (* Ne peti nikako ako je velika rosa,
ili slana!!) U stvari, ako i malo sumnjate u sebe i svoje sposobnosti,
ostanite na Rudoj glavi (sa koje je snimljena manja fotografija) i
uivajte u pogledu.

71

TALI Ruda glava 2020 & Kule 2063 m


Season: May-October
Access: Niki Podgorica marked turning to the village of Osreci (2.7 km after Monastery Moraa) Ropunica (3 km of asphalt
and 9 km of macadam).
Elevation difference: about 660 m

Route description: Park the car in Ropunica and walk along the
forest road until you reach a clearing and then follow the marked
trail leading to the saddle between Ruda glava and Kule. You will
climb a rather steep slope, and the ridge of the main peak(s) is, at
places, quite demanding and narrow so take your time. In fact, if
you have any doubts in yourself, stay at Ruda glava and enjoy the
views. (*Do not climb if the grass is wet!)

72

MAGANIK Petrov vrh / Kurozeb 2124 mnv


Period: maj-novembar
Prilaz: Niki upa Miolje polje titovo Stanjevia rupa.
Nakon ugodne vonje kroz upu stiete do mjesta na kom
se put razdvaja: desno ka Morakovu i lijevo ka rudnicima boksita
(Bioki stan, titovo). Birate lijevi krak i vozite uzbrdo. Kad se povremeno oteeni asfaltni put zavri, slijedi oko 8 km makadama do
mjesta gdje se put prema Stanjevia rupi odvaja od glavnog puta
za Rekoicu. Tu, kao i na prethodnim razdvajanjima, idete lijevo.
Putokaz sa (pogreno napisanim) imenom katuna se nalazi na drvetu. Vozite do sljedee raskrsnice i produite jo 30 metara desnim
krakom. Parkirajte kod drvene radnike kuice.
Visinska razlika: oko 600 m

73

Opis ture: Slijediti put i proi naputeni katun (zidana kua), a onda desno irokom stazom do obiljeenog odvajanja za izvor/ubao
Studenac i dvije lokve. Od izvora proi prosjeenom stazom do
druge lokve, a od nje lijevo i uzbrdo do raskrsnice umskih puteva.
Tu nastavljate pravo, pratei balvanski put u pravcu vrha koji
vam sada ve slui kao dobar orjentir. Na kraju tog puta (nakon
krae cik-cak dionice) idete lijevo i ulazite u stazu kroz jedan prilino lijep predio. Petrov vrh je stalno ispred vas. (Veina skretanja
je sada oznaena, ali ipak pronaite orjentire za povratak, jer vas
teren na par mjesta moe odvui na dolje prema Rekoici.) Ubrzo
izlazite iz ume i kreete se drijelom prema velikom cirku. Kad
savladate blagu uzbrdicu, neposredno prije ulaza u cirk, na desnoj
strani (odmah iznad puta) se nalazi peina/jama. Od nje, lijevim
obodom otvora, poinjete zavrni uspon. Za ~ dvadesetak minuta
dolazite na greben sa kog imate sjajan pogled na istoni dio Maganika, a onda istim grebenom stiete i na sam vrh.

U podruju vjeitog snijega i leda, sjeverozapadno od vrha. Septembar 2013.


In the area of everlasting snow, north-west from the peak. September 2013.

Napomena: Domoroci iz oblinjeg katuna, iz nekog razloga, nijesu ba najljubaznije nastrojeni prema doljacima!

74

MAGANIK Petrov vrh / Kurozeb 2124 m


Season: May-November
Access: Niki upa Miolje polje titovo Stanjevia rupa.
After a pleasant drive through upa, you reach the fork:
Morakovo is on the right, and titovo (the bauxite mines) is on the
left. Take the left road and drive uphill. The 10 km of deteriorating
asphalt is followed by macadam. Turn left at every junction (3) and
after less than 9 km you will get to the place where the short road to
Stanjevia rupa diverges from the main road to Rekoica. The
sign with the name of the katun is nailed on a tree (on the left side
of the road), and there is a signpost at the junction (without a sign).
Elevation difference: 600 m

Route description: When you reach the fork, take the right track.
In a few seconds you will see an unusual wooden shed. Park the car
there. Walk along the road and at the first junction turn right. That
trail will take you to the marked place where the path to the well
Studenac branches off. Refresh yourself at the well, walk past the
first of two ponds from the left, proceed uphill, and you will soon
come to the junction of 3 forest roads. Go straight ahead, and
follow the track going in the direction of the peak which is already
visible. At the end of that track, after a zigzag section, take the left
turn and enter the path running through the forest (the last picture).
Petrov vrh is constantly in front of you and all important turnings
are now marked but, nevertheless, try to find a couple of orientation

75

points, because on your way back the terrain could easily trick you
and take you downwards to Rekoica.

Eventually, you will come out of the forested area and find yourself
on the trail leading to a huge cirque. There is no need to enter the
cirque. Instead, at its very entrance look for the cave (there may be
snow in it) on the right, immediately above the trail. The final part
of the ascent starts from there, along the left edge of the opening. In
about 20 minutes you will climb the ridge which offers a beautiful
view of eastern Maganik. The same ridge will also take you to the
summit.

Additional note: There is a large depression, north-west from the


main peak, where you can find snow all year round.

76

MAGANIK Meei vrh 2139 mnv


Period: maj-novembar
Prilaz: 1. Niki upa Miolje polje titovo Mala Rekoica
2. Niki upa Morakovo Zabran Mala Rekoica
U prvom sluaju, uputstva su ista kao i za prethodni vrh,
dok ne doete do Stanjevia rupe, a onda odatle produavate jo 3
km do Male Rekoice.
U drugom sluaju, idete ka Morakovu i dolazite do kraja
sela. Produavate pravo, preko malog mosta, i kad se asfalt zavri
nastavljate dalje, uglavnom preicama (ako idete pjeke), ili vrlo,
vrlo loim putem do Rekoice (oko 10 km).
Visinska razlika: oko 640 m

Opis ture: (Prilaz 1) Terenskim vozilom se moe doi i do Maganikog polja. Ipak, put je mjestimino u vrlo loem stanju, pa zato
kad poslije Stanjevia rupe proete odvajanje za Rekoicu (kolibe
na lijevoj strani) vozite do mjesta gdje se spajaju put kojim ste doli
i put iz Morakova, a onda produite lijevim krakom, kratko kroz
umu. Kad stignete do povee istine na desnoj strani (Mala Rekoica) parkirajte automobil. Hodate do raskrsnice, a zatim lijevo,
uzbrdo, i dolazite do jo jednog razdvajanja. Tano tu, gdje desni
krak puta poinje da obilazi Maganiko polje, postoji preica kroz
umu koja silazi u polje i ide dalje njegovim obodom. Kokotov vrh
je lijevo (S), a masiv Meeeg vrha je prema sjeveroistoku. Staza

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ide navie od posljednjih koliba i izmeu vrhova vodi do prevoja


trbina. Uspon je prilino naporan, pa se na prevoju moete kratko
odmoriti, ali ako nastavite udesno i jo malo se popnete (to ionako
treba da uradite), imaete sjajan pogled na Babine zube. Slijedi mali
pad do povee vrtae u kojoj uvijek ima snijega. Obilazite je sa lijeve strane prema jugoistoku, a onda dalje grebenom prema istoku.
Neposredno prije glavnog vrha, koga prepoznajete po malom betonskom stubu, na lijevoj strani se nalazi jo jedna velika vrtaa u
kojoj takoe moete nai snijeg.

Babini zubi

Na povratku ne morate ii istim putem pratite greben dok


ne primijetite puteljak koji se odvaja ulijevo i ide direktno nadolje
prema Maganikom polju. Kad izaete iz ume, na lijevoj strani
(jugoistok) ete primijetiti policu, odnosno stazu uz stjenoviti zid.
Ako elite, tuda moete doi do vrlo neobine bistijerne (rezervoar
za vodu). Inae, ovo je ranije bio uobiajeni (krai, ali tei i strmiji)
smjer za uspon na Meei vrh.
Napomene: Maganik je, u cjelini gledano, bezvodna planina, ali
samo na prostoru Meeeg vrha postoji nekoliko mjesta (vrtae, ili
jame) u kojima snijega ima tokom cijele godine.

78

MAGANIK Meei vrh 2139 m


Season: May-November
Access: 1. Niki upa Miolje polje titovo Mala Rekoica
2. Niki upa Morakovo Zabran Mala Rekoica
In the first case, the directions are the same as for Kurozeb/
Petrov vrh. However, when you get to Stanjevia rupa - Rekoica
junction, continue straight ahead and drive another 3 km to Mala
Rekoica.
In the second case, turn right at titovo - Morakovo fork.
When the asphalt road ends, follow a bad macadam road for about
10 km. (Not recommended.)
Elevation difference: about 640 m

Route description: (Access 1) If you have an all-terrain vehicle,


you can drive all the way to Maganiko polje. However, it is not
advised, and after passing the turning to Rekoica (a number of
cottages on the left), drive to the place where the road you have
come by and the road from Morakovo meet. Take the left track,
drive shortly through the pine forest, and when you reach the large
clearing on the right (Mala Rekoica) park the car.
Walk along the mountain road and at the junction go left,
uphill. You will soon reach another junction. Right there, where the
right track starts going around Maganiko polje, there is a shortcut

79

through the forest leading to the cottages in the northern part of the
field. Kokotov vrh (Cocks peak) is on the left (N) and Meei vrh
(Bears peak) is in front of you (NE).

The trail starts behind the last huts and ascends the saddle
between the peaks trbina. You can have a short rest there, but it

80

is better to climb a little further to the right and in about 10 min you
will enjoy the extraordinary view of Babini zubi (Grandmothers
teeth). There is a large depression nearby. Choose the left path
around it. Continue to the south-east and then follow the ridge to
the east. Immediately before the main peak, which is recognized by
a short concrete pillar, there is another large depression in which
you can usually find snow even in September.
On the way back
to Maganiko polje you
dont have to follow the
same route. Walk along
the ridge until you notice
the path running directly
downwards to the katuns
at the foothill. When you
get out of the pine forest,
there is a path (ledge) to
the left it is the way to
a water reservoir.
This route is still
used by some people as
a way up it is steeper,
but shorter. I myself hate
it because of the slippery
terrain (mixed grass and
scree). It always seems that the descent takes the same amount of
time as the ascent.
Additional notes: All in all, Maganik is a waterless mountain, but
only in the area of Meei vrh there are at least four places (pits,
depressions) in which you can find snow all year round.

81

MAGANIK Rogoed 2037 mnv


Period: maj-novembar
Prilaz: Niki Zagrad Konjsko Bojovia bare.
Asfaltnim putem se sputate u Bare i na prvom razdvajanju idete
desno nekih tridesetak metara do potoka. Tu je parking za par
automobila. Ali, ako ste doli terenskim vozilom, ne morate silaziti
u Bare moete produiti jo par kilometara loim makadamom do
Male Lukavice.
Visinska razlika: oko 540 m (iz Bara Bojovia)

Opis ture: Preko potoka se upuujete uzbrdo ka istoku. Prolazite


pored male kue sa ravnim krovom i ulazite u jaku stazu. Nekoliko
potoia izvire iz kamenih lomova. Dolazite do izvora ispod povee
stijene i preskaete potok koji dolazi sa lijeve strane. Put vas vodi
livadom kroz Malu Lukavicu. Kad ugledate crkvu skrenite desno,
preite makadamski put iz Bara Bojovia i produite prema novim
drvenim kuicama i neobinim osmatranicama. Na prevoju birate:
Varijanta 1: Kreete prema koti 1756 (jugoistok) i dalje prema lijevoj strani planine. Staza vie ne postoji, ili je jedva vidljiva, ali vas
teren sam uvlai i dovodi do omanjeg cirka istono od glavnog
vrha. Da bi u njega uli, penjete usku travnatu kosinu oivienu stijenama, nalazite prolaz (lijevo) i prelazite stjenoviti teren sa mnogo
kripova i jama. (Druga i etvrta slika.) Stiete do greda, nastavljate
desno (zatravljenim) siparom, ili kao na slici, snijegom i konano
izlazite na travnati greben dio glavnog vrha.

82

Varijanta 2: Idete prema jugu (kota 1688) kreui se preko niza travnatih i kamenitih uvala. Staza ima vie, jer se tuda kreu pastiri sa
ovcama. U svakom sluaju, va cilj je umovito-stjenoviti teren i
prevoj (koji ne penjete) desno od Rogoeda. Kad priete dovoljno
blizu vieete lijevak i par mogunosti za zavrni uspon. (Slika
ispod.) Glavni vrh je drugi od prevoja i relativno lako se penje
naroito tokom maja i poetkom juna kad ima dosta snijega.

Napomena: Prva varijanta zvui opasno, ali nije ba tako. Potrebno


je samo posmatrati teren i pamtiti izvjesna mjesta zbog povratka.
Takoe moete razmisliti i o krunoj turi: do vrha doi jednom, a
vratiti se drugom varijantom.

83

MAGANIK Rogoed 2037 m


Season: May-November
Access: Niki Zagrad Konjsko Bojovia bare. Follow the
asphalt road down to Bojovia bare and at the first junction turn
right (the short gravel road, about 30 m). Park the car at the stream
bank. If you have an all-terrain vehicle, do not go down to Bojovia
bare but continue to Mala Lukavica. (See the map.)
Elevation difference: about 540 m (from Bojovia bare)
Route description: Cross the stream and head uphill to the east.
Pass the katun on the left and enter a well-established trail. Stay on
it until you reach a large stone and the source underneath it. Cross
the stream which comes from the left and follow the road through
Mala Lukavica. In a few minutes, you will get to the macadam road
again (S). Cross it and go past three (or four) new wooden cottages
and a few unusual watchtowers. At the pass, you have two options:
Option 1: Head for the elevation point 1756 (SE) and proceed to the
left side of the mountain ahead.
The trail is now hardly visible,
but the terrain itself draws you
in and brings to a small cirque,
east from the main peak. In order
to enter it, climb the short grassy
section bordered by stone walls,
go through the passageway on
the left, and walk over rugged
terrain (lots of holes and pits)
towards the crag in front of you.
Finally, turn right and climb the
scree (talus) slope leading to the
grassy ridge and the summit itself.
Option 2: Head south (the elevation point 1688). There is a number
of trails, and they all switchback over the (grassy/rocky) area. The
orientation point is the pass on the right from Rogoed, but there is
no need to go all the way and climb it. When you get close enough,

84

you will see the natural passage on the left and a way or two to the
top. The main peak is the second from the pass. The ascent is a bit
steep, but interesting. This tour is recommended in May when there
is plenty of snow.
Additional notes: The first option may seem difficult, but it is not
so. If you wish, you can use one way to get to the top and the other
to go down from it. (The map: Rogoed and Bourni vrh 1 & 2)

85

MAGANIK Bourni vrh 1923 mnv


Period: maj-novembar
Prilaz: Isti kao i za Rogoed.
Visinska razlika: oko 420 m

Opis ture:
Varijanta 1: Prvi dio rute je isti kao i za Rogoed, ali kad proete
prevoj idete lijevo i ulazite u dugu travnatu jarugu koja e vas odvesti iza stjenovitog Tijaka (1814 m) i dalje prema vrhu donja
fotografija. Kreete se postepeno navie, put jugoistoka, pratei
planinu kako bi izbjegli mnogobrojne vrtae na desnoj strani.

Nekadanja staza se moe samo povremeno nazrijeti.

86

Varijanta 2: Preko Male Lukavice putem dolazite do crkve, a zatim


i izvora Babino sicalo. Nastavite jo, otprilike, par stotina metara i
na desnoj strani ete vieti kuu sa drvenim krovom koji se jedva
dri (prva slika).
Odmah iza nje,
u desno, poinje
jo vidljiva staza
koja obillazi Tijak s lijeve strane, vodi drijelom do prevoja i
tu se ukljuuje u
stazu iz varijante 1. (* Rano ujutro, kad ima slane, ili dosta rose,
stijene u gornjem dijelu drijela su vrlo klizave.)
Napomena: Postoji i trea mogunost: od dola ispod puta za Velje
Duboko. (Vidi i malu
fotografiju u opisu na
engleskom jez.) Nema potrebe da idete
putem i silazite u do
moete koristiti pristupnu stazu koja ide
od ve pominjane polusruene kue, podnojem planine i ulazi u usjek. Uspon je
vrlo jak, oko 350 m u
visinu, ali penjete se
kroz izuzetno zanimljiv prirodni kanal, t.j.
sulundar i izlazite tano ispod vrha, sa desne strane.
Ipak, doivljaj e biti najpotpuniji ako uspon odradite varijantom 1, ili 2, a silazak varijantom 3.
Pogled sa vrha je... neobian. Dobijate potpuno nov uvid u
okolni teren, naravno, ukoliko ga ve poznajete.

87

MAGANIK Bourni vrh 1923 m


Season: May-November
Access: The same as for Rogoed.
Elevation difference: 420 m
Route description: If you do not mind walking over difficult terrain and also enjoy finding your own ways, this is the tour for you.
This is a rough little mountain and the views are excellent.
Option1: The first part of the route is the same as for Rogoed but,
after the pass, look for the longish and shallow grassy ravine on the
left. It will take you behind Tijak (1814 m). Now head south-east,
gradually gaining height, and always follow the line of the mountain. In that way you will avoid the numerous depressions and pits
on the right. The trail is hardly visible, but there are several road
signs in the form of small cairns.
Option 2: Start from the parking (Bare Bojovia) and go all the way
through Mala Lukavica. Follow the gravel road until you see the
ruined house on the right (the roof has not collapsed yet). There is a
visible path behind it (through the gully). This path goes around
Tijak from the left side (SE), runs through the gorge (W), climbs
the pass, and eventually joins the route from option 1.
Additional note: There is
another option: the ascent
starts above the valley on
the right side of the road to
Velje Duboko. (See the 2nd
picture on page 87.) Once
you set off for the summit,
there is a relentless, ~ 350
m high steep slope waiting
for you. But, you will also
go through an interesting
natural passage / channel,
and reach the peak from its
right, grassy side.

88

SINJAJEVINA Korman 1923 mnv


Period: maj-oktobar
Prilaz: 1. Niki avnik Grabovica abljak Njegovua
Zmijniko jezero. Gole vrhove Kormana vidite na lijevoj strani,
im uete u centar Njegovue.
2. Niki avnik Grabovica Provalija/Bukovica
Banske kue Njegovua Zmijniko jezero. Korman je sada
desno od Njegovue.
Visinska razlika: oko 600 m (od jezera), ili 400 m sa Painog polja

Opis ture: Od Zmijnikog jezera do Painog polja vodi dobar makadamski put. Ako se odluite da automobil ostavite na kraju asfalta,
narednih 3,7 km moete uivati u etnji kroz borovu i jelovu umu.

Odmah po izlasku na Paino polje ete vieti par starih, oteenih


drvenih koliba (desno), a zatim naputate glavni put i idete dalje u-

89

mskim putem (lijevo). Ukoliko ubrzo ne primijetite preicu (takoe


na lijevoj strani, preko male livade skretanje oznaeno), slijedite
put dok ne doete do tree otre krivine ulijevo. Na tom mjestu,
pored (tanije, iza) kamene kupe poinje primjetna staza uzbrdo.
Nakon par stotina
metara dolazite na
proplanak sa koga
vidite prvi vrh koji ne penjete nego
zaobilazite. Odatle je mogue poeti zavrni uspon,
ali je, ipak, bolje
da pratite jasnu stazu preko proplanka i dalje kroz umu. Tako ete
lako doi do travnatih padina i duge jaruge koja vodi do glavnog
vrha juna strana.
Napomena: Teren je umovit, ali ne i teak za kretanje, ako pratite
stazu koja je dobro oiena i obiljeena.
Predio od Njegovue do Zmijnikog jezera i dalje ka vrhu
je izuzetno lijep. Na Kormanu i oblinjoj Kuevici (1783) se nalaze
najbolje i najkrupnije borovnice u ovom dijelu Crne Gore.

Najljepe vrijeme za ovu turu je upravo period avgust-septembar. Preporuujem je i onima koji se ne bave planinarenjem.

90

SINJAJEVINA Korman 1923 m


Season: May-October
Access: 1. Niki avnik Grabovica abljak Njegovua
Zmijniko jezero. You will see the barren peaks of Korman on the
left, as soon as you get to Njegovua.
2. Niki avnik Grabovica* Provalija/Bukovica
Banske kue Njegovua Zmijniko jezero. Now the peaks are
on the right. *You can also use the old avnik - abljak road.
Elevation difference: 400 m from Paino polje; and 600 m from
the lake (Zmijniko jez.)
Route description: The macadam road from Zmijniko jezero to
Paino polje is quite OK, but you can also leave the car at the lake,
or at the end of the asphalt road, and the next 4.5, or 3.7 km will be
a pleasant walk through the coniferous forest. When you get to the
plateau of Paino polje, you will notice two ruined wooden huts on
the right. Go past them and look for the track branching off to the
left. Follow it until you reach the third curve going sharply to the
left. The trail starts there, from a small pile of stones, and it is partly
marked (arrows carved and painted on the trees). After a couple
hundred meters you will come to the clearing from which the first
peak can be seen. If you decide to make the final ascent from there,
traverse it from the left side. However, it is better to continue along
the good path
going across
the field and
further through the forest.
In 10-15 min.
you will find
yourself near
the beginning
of a long ravine leading to the mild grassy slopes of the main peak.
Additional notes: The area from Njegovua to Zmijniko jezero is
extraordinary beautiful. Korman and neighbouring Kuevica (1783)
are the places where the best and largest blueberries in this part of

91

Montenegro can be found. The recommended period for climbing


Korman (or Kuevica from Ramovo drijelo, before Njegovua) is
August September.

92

SINJAJEVINA Babin vrh 2013 mnv


Period: maj-oktobar

Prilaz: Niki avnik Boan Sirovac Bare Jeita


Od raskrsnice Boan - abljak do skretanja za Bare ima 6.8
km i potrebno je biti paljiv, jer se vrlo lako moe desiti da ga proete. Put do Bara je asfaltni, ali je u prvom dijelu vrlo strm, uzak i
oteen. Do naglog skretanja za Jeita imate 4,8 km (dobar orjentir
moe biti lijepa kua sa zelenim krovom), a odatle jo ~5 km do
kraja asfalta. Automobil ostavljate na proirenju pored lokve.
Visinska razlika: oko 420 m

93

Opis ture: Krenite dalje putem ka Polju Bijelia. Kad doete na


prevoj prije polja ugledaete niz od 4-5 vrhova. Babin vrh je trei s
lijeva. Staza koja je ucrtana na karti je samo jedna od nekoliko
mogunosti koje teren doputa. Bitno je samo da se postepeno penjete u pravcu vrha i tako ete ui u jaku stazu koja e vas dovesti
do Babine lokve malog jezera izmeu susjedne Piramide (1985) i
prvog, neto nieg od, zapravo, dva Babina vrha.

94

SINJAJEVINA Babin vrh 2013 m


Season: May-October
Access: Niki avnik Boan Sirovac Bare Jeita
The distance from Boan - abljak junction to the unmarked
and sudden turning to Bare is ~7 km, so better be careful not to
miss it. The road to Bare is asphalt, but at the beginning it is rather
steep, narrow, and sporadically damaged. You will reach the sharp
turning to Jeita after 4.8 km; the house with green roof is a good
orientation point. Park the car at a widening at the end of the
asphalt. (See the satellite map on page 93.)
Elevation difference: about 420 m

Route description: Walk to Polje Bijelia (Bijelias field) along


the mountain road which is, at some places, exclusively for stronger
all-terrain vehicles. When you get to the pass before the field, you
will notice the row of 4-5 peaks. Babin vrh (Grandmothers peak) is
the third from the left. The route given on the map is just one of
several options which are
offered by the terrain. It is
only recommended that
the trail you choose takes
you to Babina lokva a
small lake between neighboring Piramida (1985) and
the lower of, in fact, two
Grandmothers peaks.
* The map also shows a part of the route to Veliki Pearac.

95

SINJAJEVINA Veliki Pearac 2042 mnv


Period: maj-oktobar
Prilaz: Isti kao i za Babin vrh.
Visinska razlika: oko 400 m (od podnoja do vrha)

Opis ture: Jeita - Polje Bijelia. Odatle se preicom (SI), a zatim


putem uputiti prema istoku, odnosno ka najveoj planini u tom pravcu. Stiete do raskrsnice Kriako polje - Starako polje (postoji i
znak) i idete lijevo. Do podnoja Velikog Pearca dolazite kreui
se obodom Kriakog polja. Kad proete temelje nekadanje kue,
nakon pedesetak metara ete na desnoj strani primijetiti kratak put,
a zatim i jasnu stazu koja vodi do oblinjeg katuna. Iza njega je
vododerina kojom moete poeti penjanje uz Otmievac. Glavni
vrh je sasvim lijevo. Od kraja asfalta do vrha ima oko 9,5 km.
Ako nijeste doli
terenskim automobilom, loa strana/
mana ove ture (za
nekoga) moe biti
dug hod po putu, ~
7 km do podnoja.
Zbog toga se Vel.
Pearac obino i penje u jesen ili proljee (maj/jun) da bi se izbjegli vrui dani. (Mala slika: Polje Bijelia)

96

Veliki Pearac

97

SINJAJEVINA Veliki Pearac 2042 m


Season: May-October
Access: The same as for Babin vrh.
Elevation difference: ~ 400 m (from the foothills to the summit)

Route description: Jeita - Polje Bijelia. (See the prev. descripttion, and the small picture on page 96.) Head north-east, take the
shortcut to the right, and then follow the gravel road which goes in
the direction of Veliki Pearac, the highest peak in this area. At the
junction (Kriako polje - Starako polje, there is a signpost) go left
and the road will take you to the foothills of the mountain. About
50 m from the ruins on the right (a former house, the picture
below), you will notice the clear path leading to a nearby cottage.
Start the ascent behind it, through the ravine. The main peak is on
the left the route is shown above.
The only
shortcoming of
this tour (at least,
for some people)
could be the long
walk (back) along
the gravel road 7
km. However, the
effort is well rewarded: the open spaces and the views from the top
are really magnificent. The area is particularly beautiful in June, but
the best season to climb V. Pecarac is autumn to avoid the hot
weather.

98

SINJAJEVINA Veliki starac 2022 mnv


Period: maj-oktobar
Prilaz: Niki avnik Boan Gornja rijeka (Krnja jela) Ljutovac. Od raskrsnice Boan - abljak do iznenadnog skretanja u
lijevo sa glavnog puta u mjestu Krnja jela (Gornja rijeka) je 8,2 km.
(Vidi satelitsku mapu pristupa Babinom vrhu.) Put je asfaltni, uzak
i vrlo strm, 3km. Dalje nastavljate kratko makadamom (0,7 km) i
ostavljate automobil na proirenju sa desne strane puta. Odatle poinje pjeaki dio ture.
Visinska razlika: oko 420 m

Opis ture: Hodati putem dok ne vidite prvu kuu na lijevoj strani, a
zatim se iznad nje uputiti na istok, prema Vali. Moete pratiti njeno
pruanje u gornjem dijelu, a onda sami izaberite kuda vam najbolje
odgovara. Staza koja je opisana i ona koja je ucrtana na karti su samo par od nekoliko moguih varijanti za ovu turu. U stvari, najvanije je da se stalno kreete u pravcu sjeveroistoka i na kraju ete
doi do najvieg vrha na kom se nalazi mala piramida. (Na slici
ispod oblaka.) Pogled je odlian.
Napomena: Kad ste ve tu, popnite i druga dva, samo 1m nia, ali
ipak, ljepa vrha Velikog starca. Manja fotografija na strani 101.

99

SINJAJEVINA Veliki starac 2022 m


Season: May-October

100

Access: Niki avnik Boan Krnja jela (Gornja rijeka) Ljutovac. The distance from Boan - abljak junction to the unmarked
and sudden turning to the left in Krnja jela or, more precisely, Gornja Rijeka is 8.2 km. (See the satellite map showing the access to
Babin vrh.) The road to Ljutovac is asphalt, but narrow and rather
steep 3 km. The final 0.7 km to the parking place (on the right
side of the road) is macadam.
Elevation difference: about 420 m

V. Starac 2022 from V. Starac 2021

Route description: Continue along the road on foot until you see
the first house on the left. Go past that house and head east in the
direction of Vala. When you enter it, just follow the terrain and
keep on climbing (NE). Still, the route given on the map is only a
suggestion there are several ways to the summit. In fact, the only
real instruction is as follows: move north-east all the time, looking
for the highest peak with a small pyramidal structure at the top.
Additional
note: Since you
are already here,
you should prolong this tour for
~15 minutes and
climb the 2, only
1m lower, peaks
of V. starac too.
(SE) It is worth the effort because they offer the closer views of
Jablanov vrh and Gradite.

101

SINJAJEVINA Jablanov vrh 2203 mnv


Period: maj-oktobar
Prilaz: Kao i za V. Starac, stim to od Ljutovca do katuna Jemen
do nastavljate povremeno loim putem prema istoku. (~ 9 km)
Visinska razlika: oko 500 m

Opis ture: Vozilo ostaviti u blizini izvora/ubla Smrdan. Idete kratko putem, a onda lijevo ka bliem i naizgled najviem vrhu planine pored Kukavice (1860) na desnoj, a zatim i Pekove glave (1872)
na lijevoj strani. Prolazite kotu 1913 (lijevo) i dolazite do podnoja
planine. Uoavate stazu koja vodi ukoso navie poetak uspona.
Nakon prolaza
(prva fotografija
u opisu na engl.
jeziku) moete,
ako imate volje i
vremena, produiti sve do poetka litice, baciti
pogled u pravcu
Gornjeg Lipova,
i konano grebenom lagano zavriti uspon do zidine na vrhu. Ako
je dan lijep, pogled (prema Graditu i Torni naroito) je izuzetan.
Napomena: Druga, manja fotografija prikazuje dionicu od poetka
uspona (lijevo) do prolaza u stijenama (desno).

102

SINJAJEVINA Jablanov vrh 2203 m


Season: May-October
Access: Niki avnik Boan Gornja Rijeka (Krnja Jela)
Ljutovac Potrk Jemen do. The macadam road from Ljutovac to
the katun called Jemen do is sometimes quite rough. (~ 9 km)
Elevation difference: about 500 m

Route description: Park the vehicle in the field near the well/water
reservoir called Smrdan. Head for the closer, and seemingly the

103

highest, peak of the mountain in front of you. Walk between Kukavica (1860) and Pekova glavica (1872), and finally pass the
elevation point 1913 from the right side. In less than an hour you
should be at the foothill of the mountain. There is a trail running
upwards to the right.
Follow it to the passage (the picture below)
and then go north-east
towards the main peak.
Or, in order to make
the tour more interesting, you can go on all
the way to the beginning of the ridge (the
edge of the cliff) take a
short break and have a
look at the village of (Gornje) Lipovo, and finish the ascent along
the ridge. (See the picture below.) If the weather is clear, the views
are excellent, particularly the ones of Gradite and Torna.

Additional notes: The smaller picture in the description in Montenegrin shows the ascent route from the foothills of Jablanov vrh to
the passage shown in the photograph above.

104

GRADITE Vranova glavica 2215 mnv


Period: maj-oktobar
Prilaz: Isti kao i za Jablanov vrh, ali ne idete do Jemen dola.
Visinska razlika: oko 500 m
Opis ture: Automobil ostavljate
pored kue sa limenim krovom,
otprilike 8 km od
kraja asfalta.
Na fotografiji
desno je upljaa
(2071 m). Jaka staza vodi prema lokvi u njenom podnoju. Nakon
prevoja naputate tu stazu i idete obodom ovee depresije (jedan od
nekoliko Arbanakih dolova) izbjegavajui vei gubitak u visini.
Odatle dalje uzbrdo, lijevkom prema jugu. Na kraju uspona teren
se otvara i nudi dvije varijante. U prvoj na Vranovu glavicu stiete
sa desne strane vrha. Kreete prema jugozapadu (teren vas sam
vodi). Desno, ispod prevoja su tri manja sipara koja moete obii.
Iznad njih je staza u koju se ukljuujete i tako stiete na cilj.

Varijanta 2: Hodajui dolje-gore prema jugu stiete do podnoja velikog sipara, to jest Gradit (2174 m). Penjete se ka sedlu
i dobijate izuzetan pogled na susjednu Tornu. Odatle desno i blagim
travnatim padinama za desetak minuta stiete do vrha.

105

GRADITE Vranova glavica 2215 m


Season: May-October
Access: The same as for Jablanov vrh, but you do not drive all the
way to Jemen do.
Elevation difference: about 500 m

Vranova glavica i Gradita sa Torne / Vranova glavica and Gradita from Torna

Route description: Park the car near the house with tin roof, ~ 8
km from the end of the asphalt. The photograph above gives you
the rear view of the mountain. There is a good path leading in the
direction of the pond at the foothills of upljaa 2071 (SE; the first
picture in the Montenegrin description). Once you get over the pass
/ridge, leave the path, head south, walk around a large depression,
and continue uphill until the terrain opens. Now go down and then
up towards the scree slope left from the main peak. When you get
close enough, you
will notice the zigzag trail to the saddle. (Slippery!)
Finally, turn right
(W) and climb the
mild grassy slopes
of Vranova glavica. The views are
really fascinating, especially the one of neighbouring Torna.

106

Additional note: The ascent of Vranova glavica can also be made


from the right side of the peak. When you pass the elevation point
1907, turn towards the south-west and locate 3 screes one next to
another. (See the 2nd pic in the Montenegrin description.) Approach
them from the right and join the path running immediately above
them. This might be a better option too, because you avoid the
already mentioned height loss. It is also a bit shorter.

Vranova glavica

107

TORNA / Babin zub 2277 mnv


Period: maj-oktobar
Prilaz: Niki avnik Boan prevoj Semolj Redice (Svrke).
Od raskrsnice Boan - abljak do skretanja (lijevo) za selo Svrke je
24 km, a odatle do parkinga (u stvari, radi se o raskrsnici) ima jo
oko 6 i po kilometara makadama.
Ili: Podgorica Mioska Dragovia polje Svrke (desno).
Visinska razlika: oko 1100 m
Opis ture: Fotografija pokazuje Tornu (Babin zub) sa pristupnog
puta. Parkirajte na pomenutom proirenju/raskrsnici. Krenite lijevo,
uzbrdo putem i na prvoj krivini u desno vieete putokaz edov
do na stijeni. Staza poinje desno od njega, iza buna/drveta.

U poetku je jasna i obiljeena crvenom bojom. Kad doete


do mjesta gdje skree udesno i izlazi iz drijela, pratite oznake (koje ubrzo prestaju) i nastavite put direktno navie kratko kroz umu, pa siparom, izmeu litica. Stiete do podnoja sljedeeg sipara
ijom se ivicom, a na kraju i samim siparom, penjete do edovog
dola u kome se nalazi jedna oronula koliba koja (valjda) jo uvijek
moe posluiti kao sklonite ako je potrebno. Kratko se odmorite, a
onda ponovo uzbrdo da bi se ukljuili u markiranu stazu iz Gornjeg
Lipova ide preko dugog sipara i obilazi vrh sa desne strane. U
posljednjem dijelu (strmog) uspona morate biti paljivi i ne smijete

108

uriti. Zanemarite oznake koje idu desno od vrha to je zapravo


slijepi put (!?).

Ulaz u edov do / The entrance to edov do

Napomene: Ovo je svakako najtea od svih tura koje se nalaze u


ovoj knjizi, a opisana ruta je i najkraa koja postoji.
Sama razlika u visini, od parkinga
do vrha, a zatim i
povremeno teak
teren, upuuju na
to da je za Tornu
potrebno biti fiziki, ali i mentalno
spreman. Ovaj vrh (po mom miljenju) nije za velike, turistike
grupe, ili poetnike.
Na karti je ucrtana i mogunost uspona na, neto nii, prvi
vrh sa lijeve strane. Kreete iz edovog dola, u pravcu borova u
sredini posljednje fotografije na kraju opisa na engleskom i nastavljate dalje prema istoku. Ukoliko smatrate da je opisana tura previe
naporna, opasna, ili ste samo u kripcu s vremenom, ovaj vrh je
sasvim pristojna zamjena za glavni.

109

TORNA / Babin zub 2277 m


Season: May-October
Access: Niki avnik Boan Krnja Jela Semolj Svrke.
The distance from Boan - abljak junction to the (left)
turning to the village of Svrke is 24 km, and it is followed by another 6.5 km of macadam to the parking which is actually a fork.
The other way to approach Torna is: Podgorica Mioska
Dragovia polje Svrke (on the right).
Elevation difference: about 1100 m

Route description: The first picture in the description in Montenegrin shows the position of Torna (in the middle) viewed from the
accessing road. You can also see the Stone gate through which
you have to go on the way to edov do, a large cirque.
When you park the car, walk uphill, along the road, and at
the first turn to the right you will see the sign edov do written
on a rock. The trailhead is next to it, behind a bush-tree. At the
beginning the trail is clear and marked, but you need to abandon it
when it starts going to the right, out of the gorge. That place is also
marked and easily recognized. From there the waymarks stop. Now
climb directly upwards, first through the forest and then over scree.
(Do not move away from the cliff on the right.) In a shortwhile, you
will come to the foothill of another scree slope. Continue along its

110

rocky edge. Unfortunately, the path through the forest (if there ever
was one) is overgrown and cannot be used.

111

In the upper section of the slope the path becomes visible


and eventually enters edov do. There you will find a ruined hut
which could still be used as a shelter if necessary. Rest for a little
while and prepare yourself for the second part of the route: the
climb to the (marked) trail from Lipovo which traverses long scree
and leads to the summit. In the final, steep and slippery section of
the ascent concentration and discipline are of the utmost importance. You mustnt hurry, and do not follow the waymarks which go
right from the peak it is a dead end. (!?) I am not sure what the
authors intention was.
Additional notes: Torna is surely the hardest of all the tours in this
guide-book. The elevation difference (~1100 m) speaks for itself
you should be physically and mentally fit. It is not recommended to
inexperienced people or larger (touristic) groups.
If you think that this
tour is too strenuous,
or even dangerous,
you should consider
climbing the 1st peak
from the left. It is 20
meters lower than the
main peak, but it is,
nevertheless, a quite
decent replacement.
Start the ascent from
edov do to the left,
and head for the pine
trees in the middle of
the photo. When you pass them from the left, you will soon enter a
ravine leading to the grassy slopes (See the map.)

112

DURMITOR
Durmitor je, kako kau, svijet za sebe i moda veim dijelom ne
spada u planine centralne Crne Gore. U ovom vodiu je, u skladu sa
kartografskom podjelom, podijeljen na Sjever i Jug. Tako se u
grupi Sjever nalaze opisi uspona na tri vrha ljemena, zatim na
Bandijernu, arene pasove i Pruta. Bobotov kuk i Veliki Meed,
kao dva najpoznatija i (pored Savinog kuka) najposjeenija vrha do
kojih vode dobro utabane markirane staze, su samo dotaknuti sa
par reenica i predstavljeni po jednom lijepom fotografijom.
Durmitor Jug je zastupljen sa tri vrha: Ranisava, Sedlena
greda i Lojanik.
Bobotov kuk 2523m

Start je obino sa prevoja Sedlo. Slijedi neto opasniji dio pored


Uvite grede (2199), etnja do Zubaca (2309), a zatim pad do Zelenog vira i onda dugi uspon do stjenovitog vrha. Ipak, mislim da je
staza od Urdenog dola (vidi opis za arene pasove) bolja varijanta.
Veliki Meed 2287m
Parkirate u selu Motiki gaj (6 kua sa braon krovom, lijeva strana
puta od NK). Ulazite u stazu iza kua sa zelenim krovom i pratite je
dok ne doete do markiranog puta Crno jez.-Savin kuk. Desno i na
prvom razdvajanju lijevo. Od prevoja Struga (1920) uspon zahtijeva oprez. Izlazite na greben, a onda lijevo ka vrhu. (Sljedea slika.)

113

DURMITOR
In this guide the Durmitor area is divided in two parts: North and
South. The former includes six peaks: ljeme, Istoni vrh, Miloev tok (which all belong to the range of ljeme), Bandijerna, areni pasovi and Pruta. Bobotov kuk and Veliki Meed, as the two
best known and (besides Savin kuk) most frequently climbed peaks
with their well-established and marked trails, are merely touched
with a couple of sentences.
Durmitor South is represented by the following peaks:
Ranisava, Sedlena greda, and Lojanik.
Bobotov kuk 2523m
Most people usually start this tour from the pass called Sedlo. The
trail leads to the unnamed pass left from Uvita greda (2199), goes
around Zupci (2309) and descends to Zeleni vir the beginning of a
long climb to the rocky peak. However, I think that the trail from
Urdeni do (see the description of areni pasovi) is a better option.
Veliki Meed 2287m

Walk around Crno jezero to the left and follow the marked trail
heading south. At the junction behind the spring Toak go right.
From the pass known as Struga (1920) the ascent becomes rather
steep so be careful. Access the main peak along the ridge to the left.

114

DURMITOR Sjever ljeme 2455 mnv


Period: maj-oktobar
Prilaz: Niki avnik
Grabovica Virak (put za
Trsa i Pluine) Stoina.
Ili: abljak Virak
Stoina. Parking je sa lijeve strane puta par stotina
metara prije Stoine.
Visinska razlika: oko 800 m (varijanta 1)

115

Opis ture: Zaobilazite brdo Vinjeve glavice (1758) postepeno dobijajui na visini, izlazite na prevoj i kreete preko, prvo travnatog,
pa kamenitog terena ka podnoju srednjeg, najmanjeg od 3 grebena
koja vidite. Penjete greben sa desne strane i ulazite u jasnu stazu
koju kasnije, u posljednjem dijelu ture, naputate jer ona ide dalje
ravno preko strane, a vi nastavljate uzbrdo prema sjeverozapadu i
glavnom vrhu. Nakon odmora moete prei na deset metara nii
Istoni vrh (2445), sputiti se prema Mlijenom, a onda i Mekom
dolu i tako se vratiti na poetni poloaj.

Druga, kraa, varijanta uspona na ljeme poinje od konobe iznad


Valovitog jezera. Kad proete kroz Lomno drijelo i uete u Veliki
Lomni do, krenite lijevo, popnite greben i njime moete doi do
glavnog vrha. Ipak,
moda je ljepe da
na prevoju produite prema zapadu i
prvo posjetite Miloev tok (2426), a
zatim se vratite do
Miloeve lokve, logino pratite teren
do velike vrtae (u
kojoj uvijek ima snijega) i tako doete do glavnog vrha.
* Za ostatak puta do Miloevog toka i nazad ka ljemenu
vidi kartu za Bandijernu.

116

DURMITOR North ljeme 2454 m


Season: May-October
Access: Niki avnik Grabovica Virak (The road to Trsa and
Pluine.) Stoina
Or: abljak Virak Stoina. The parking place is on the
left side of the road, a few hundred meters before Stoina.
Elevation difference: about 800 m (option 1)

ljeme (2455) from Miloev tok (2426) / ljeme sa Miloevog toka

Route description: Cross the road and walk around Vinjeve glavice (the hills on the right). After the pass, the terrain opens and you
will see 3 huge ridges. Head for the one in the middle over grassy
meadows of Meki do. Begin the ascent of the ridge from its right
side and enter the conspicuous path coming from the neighbouring
ridge. When it starts traversing the slope to the west, leave it and
continue uphill (NW) towards the main peak of ljeme. On the way
down you can visit Istoni vrh (East peak, 2445), descend to Mlijeni do, and eventually join the original trail (S).
The other, shorter ascent route starts from the restaurant (?)
above Valovito jezero. Once you go through Lomno drijelo and
enter the cirque of Veliki Lomni do, you will have two options, but
my advice is to go left, climb the ridge, and use it as a direct way to

117

the main peak. In order to make this tour even more attractive you
could do the following: when you reach the point where the two
ridges meet, do not continue uphill but go towards the west, in the
direction of Miloev tok (2426), a fine peak which offers a good
view of western Durmitor. Then return to Miloeva lokva (Milos
pond) and just follow the ridge leading to a deep depression below
ljeme. There is always snow in it. (See the previous picture.)

Miloev tok from ljeme / Miloev tok sa ljemena

* The missing part of the route to Miloev tok is given on


the map of Bandijerna.

Istoni vrh from ljeme / Istoni vrh sa ljemena

118

DURMITOR Jug Ranisava 2084 mnv


Period: jun-oktobar
Prilaz: Niki avnik Grabovica Virak Stoina
Ili: abljak Virak Stoina. Parking je na lijevoj strani
puta, kao i za ljeme 1.
Visinska razlika: oko 500 m
Opis ture: Sputate se prema Suvoj lokvi koja je od sredine jula
(zavisno od godine) obino zaista takva. Njenom obalom stiete do
jasne staze koja ide preko travnatog prevoja Meugorje. Kad zavrite uspon naputate stazu i kreete prema zapadu i velikom lomu
ispod tzv. Sulundara. Prelazite ga i polako se zatravljenim siparom ukoso penjete ka stijenama lijevo, nalazite prolaz i idete desno
do sljedeeg prolaza. Zatim nailazite na dva kratka, ali nezgodna
travnata dijela i nastavljate dalje prilino strmom i uskom padinom.
(Trava i sipar!) Na kraju, do
cilja imate jo oko par stotina metara u pravcu Sedlene
grede, dominantnog vrha na
zapadu, 2227 m. Sa vrha se
vraate istim putem, a zatim
od Suve lokve idete ponovo
u pravcu Sedlene grede i nakon 10-15 minuta stiete do
Modrog jezera. Naravno, tu
moete odmoriti i ruati, ili
samo uivati u prizoru.
Napomena: Pri silasku biti paljiv i nikuda ne uriti. Staza koja je
opisana je i jedina (sa sjeveroistone strane planine) koja relativno
bezbjedno vodi do glavnog vrha. Bilo bi dobro imati lem na glavi.
Druga varijanta za uspon je mogua sa jugoistoka (kota
1938), ali mi se ini da tuda samo divokoze prolaze. Naime, iznad
pominjanog Sulundara se (sa june strane) nalazi neobezbijeeni
stjenoviti zid kojim se moe doi do grebena glavnog vrha.
* Karta je iza opisa za Sedlenu gredu.

119

DURMITOR South Ranisava 2084 m


Season: June-October
Access: Niki avnik Grabovica Virak Stoina
Or: abljak Virak Stoina

This is certainly one of the most striking parts of Montenegro. Ranisava is easily recognised by its craggy, pointed peaks.
The parking place is the same as for ljeme 1.
Elevation difference: about 500 m
Route description: Go down to Suva lokva (Dry pond) which is
usually really dry from the middle of July. Walk along its right
shore and climb the grassy saddle behind it (Meugorje). When you
finish the ascent, leave the trail and head west. Pass the elevation
point 1847 and cross the talus at the foothill (below the Chimney).
Climb to the passage(s) as shown in the small photo in the description in Montenegrin and turn left (the only possible way). Traverse
the two short but exposed grassy sections and then continue upwards scrambling the steep and narrow slope mixed grass and
scree! Finally, follow the ridge in the direction of Sedlena greda
(2227 m), the dominant peak to the west, and you will be at the
summit in a few minutes.
Descend the same way and from Suva lokva turn left (W).
About 15 minutes later, you will reach the shore of Modro jezero.
Of course, you can have lunch there, rest, or simply enjoy the sight.

120

Additional notes: While descending be careful and do not hurry.


The described route is also the only one which (safely) leads to the
summit from the north-east face of the mountain.

Ranisava from Sedlena greda / Ranisava sa Sedlene grede

There is yet another possible way to climb Ranisava (from


the south-east, the elevation point 1938), but it is not recommended.
Namely, this trail is only used by mountain goats and in order to
reach the main peak of Ranisava you have to traverse the vertical
rocky wall which crowns the Chimney and joins the two parts of
the mountain.
* The map is at the end of the description of Sedlena greda.

121

DURMITOR Jug Sedlena greda 2227 mnv


Period: jun-oktobar
Prilaz: Niki avnik Virak Sedlo
Ili: abljak Virak Sedlo
Visinska razlika: oko 320 m

Opis ture: Parkirati na prevoju Sedlo (1908). Uspon poinje sa june (lijeve) strane puta i odmah ete ugledati markaciju koja, iz nekog razloga, nije uvijek u skladu sa ve postojeom stazom. Poto
markirana ruta nije i najbolja, moj predlog je sljedei: u trenutku
kad doete do mjesta na kom staza ide ravno preko strane (prema
jugoistoku, iste strane), a oznake pokazuju naglo uzbrdo zanemarite ih i pratite put. Tako ete izbjei jedno nepotrebno penjanje i
lako zaobii kotu 2148. Nastavljate dalje prema jugozapadu i stiete
na stjenoviti, ali krljivi dio nakon koga ulazite u jasnu stazu koja
preko izuzetno strme travnate padine vodi ka vrhu. Prostor na vrhu
je uzak i nije pogodan za vee grupe.
Napomena: Sedlena greda je zaista atraktivna planina i pogled je
izuzetan, ali se uspon ipak ne preporuuje ljudima koji se plae
visine, ili kretanja po vrlo strmom terenu. Dodatan problem nekome
mogu predstavljati i brojni bumbari u opasnijem, posljednjem dijelu
uspona, ali vam oni nee smetati ukoliko ih putite da na miru rade
svoj posao. I, napokon, tokom sunog perioda trava na vrhu je krta i
moe biti klizava.

122

DURMITOR South Sedlena greda 2227 m


Season: June-October
Access: Niki Virak Sedlo. Or: abljak Virak Sedlo.
Elevation difference: about 320 m

Sedlena greda from Ranisava / Sedlena greda sa Ranisave

Route description:
Leave the car at the
parking, at the pass
Sedlo. The trailhead
is next to the road
(S) and you will immediately notice the
waymarks, but bear
in mind that they
are not always consistent with the existing path. Once you find it, my suggestion is to
follow the path all the time. When it starts going south-east (iste
strane), ignore the waymarks and simply walk around the elevation
point 2148 without unnecessary climbing. After that, head southwest and uphill. In the last part of the ascent you will have to cross
a short rocky section, go to the other side of the ridge, and finally
enter the conspicuous path which traverses the south, very steep
and grassy face of the mountain.

123

Additional notes: Sedlena greda is a very attractive mountain and


the views are extraordinary, but it is not recommended to people
who are afraid of height or walking over steep terrain. Some people
can also be intimidated by numerous bumble-bees which are often
found at the more dangerous, final part of the ascent. However, they
will not bother you if you just let them do their job. And finally,
during a dry spell the grass can be very slippery.

Sedlena greda & Ranisava

124

DURMITOR Sjever Bandijerna 2409 mnv


Period: jun-oktobar
Prilaz: Niki avnik Virak Stoina Sedlo
Ili: abljak Virak Stoina Sedlo
Visinska razlika: oko 500 m
Opis ture: Ostavljate automobil
na prevoju Sedlo
(1908) i kreete
na sjever prema
prolazu lijevo od
vrha Uvita greda
(2199) stazom
koja takoe vodi
i do Bobotovog
kuka. Dio puta iza sipara je malo opasniji pa je potrebno biti paljiv
i ne uriti. Nakon prolaza ete na desnoj strani primijetiti vertikalne
litice vrha Miloev tok i Bandijernu u njegovom produetku. Oba
vrha su dio opisanog lanca ljeme. (Na slici u opisu na engleskom
jeziku Bandijerna je u sredini i izgleda mnogo nia.)

Slijedite bilo koji od 2 kraka staze sve dok ne siete u Suve tavane (na karti to je prije Surutke), a onda siparom ukosite u pravcu
Trojnog prevoja, travnatog prelaza izmeu Bandijerne i niza otrih
stjenovitih vrhova (Zupci, 2309). Na prevoju idete desno, ulazite u

125

stazu i poinjete zavrni uspon do vrha. (Trava i sipar!)


Napomena: Ako elite da produite turu, ili izbjegnete onaj eksponirani dio pored Uvite grede, na karti vidite jo jednu varijantu
puta do Bandijerne (ili ak do Bobotovog kuka). Umjesto na sjever,
moete se uputiti prema prolazu izmeu Vjetrenih brda, zatim pratiti pruanje planine prema istoku, prei stazu za Bobotov kuk, izai
na Trojni prevoj i paljivo odraditi ostatak uspona.
Na karti je takoe ucrtan i jedan, vjerovatno najkrai pravac
uspona na Minin bogaz (2387).

Bandijerna & Miloev tok

126

DURMITOR North Bandijerna 2409 m


Season: June-October
Access: Niki avnik Virak Stoina Sedlo
Or: abljak Virak Stoina Sedlo
Elevation difference: about 500 m

Route description: Park the car at Sedlo (1908 m) and head north
towards the pass left from Uvita greda (2199). This is also one of
the routes to Bobotov kuk. The section after scree is exposed and
requires increased concentration. After the pass the trail levels and
you will immediately notice the magnificent vertical cliffs of Miloev tok and Bandijerna ahead. (In the picture above the latter is in
the middle and seems much lower.) Follow either of the tracks,
because they both descend to Suvi tavani. (On the map: the flatter
terrain before Surutka.) Now leave the trail and diagonally climb
the scree slope in the direction of Trojni prevoj, the grassy pass
between Bandijerna and a string of pointed rocky peaks (Zupci,
2309). When you get there, the peak is on the right. *Climb with
caution: mixed scree and grass!
Additional note: In order to avoid the exposed section left from
Uvita greda, you can walk towards the pass which divides Vjetrena
brda, head east (follow the line of the mountain), cross the trail to
Bobotov kuk, climb Trojni prevoj, and finish the ascent.

127

DURMITOR Sjever areni pasovi 2248 mnv


Period: jun-oktobar
Prilaz: Niki Virak Sedlo znak: krka jezera/Kamp krka
Ili: abljak Sedlo znak: krka jez./Kamp krka
Visinska razlika: oko 520 m

Opis ture: Parkirati na nekom od proirenja. Markirana staza poinje odmah pored puta (S) i obilazi Urdeni do. Pratiti je sve dok, iza
prevoja, na lijevoj strani ne ugledate dug sipar i neobine stjenovite
linije, odnosno naslage. Dalji dio rute je nemarkiran.

Krenite prema siparu i njegovim obodom ete doi do prolaza i zanimljive prirodne staze koja vodi do (ne ba lagane) travnate padine

128

na ijim krajevima se nalaze dva vrha. Moete prvo izai na tit


(2236), a onda se grebenom uputiti ka glavnom vrhu i uivati u pogledu na krko jezero i Pruta (2393), ili obratno. Ova druga varijanta je moda i bolja, jer je desni vrh vrlo nezgodan. Mogue ga je
popeti, ako se zaobie sa desne strane, ali to je zaista nepotrebna
avantura.
Napomena: Na prvoj slici tit je lijevo, a desno (u daljini) je evojka (Soa) koja se nalazi ispred Bobotovog kuka. Kao to je ve pomenuto, opisana ruta (do odvajanja) je zapravo put do ovog drugog
vrha. Ako nita drugo, ova varijanta je kraa od one sa Sedla.

129

DURMITOR North areni pasovi 2248 m


Season: June-October
Access: NK Virak Sedlo the sign: krka jezera/Kamp krka
Or: abljak Sedlo the sign: krka jez./Kamp krka
Elevation difference: about 520 m
Route description: Park at a widening. Follow the waymarks on
the right (N). * The trail goes around Urdeni do and on to the pass
between areni pasovi (left) and Vjetrena brda (right). After climbing the pass, follow the same path until you see the unusual curvy
patterns above the scree
slope on the left. Now
head for the edge of the
slope and after a short
scramble you will reach
the passage leading to
the (steep) grassy slope
and 2 peaks at its ends.
You will probably be inclined to visit the lower one (tit, 2236)
first and then walk along the ridge towards the other, but this might
not be a good idea, because attempting to climb the main peak is a
risky undertaking. The view of krka & the lake is wonderful even
from the ridge.

* This is also the already mentioned, shorter way to Bobotov kuk.

130

DURMITOR Jug Lojanik 2091 mnv


Period: jun-oktobar (Preporuuje se jesen.)
Prilaz: Niki Sedlo Vodeni do. Ili: abljak Vodeni do.
Visinska razlika: oko 300 m

Opis ture: Proite skoro cijeli Lojanik i parkirajte na proirenju na


lijevoj strani puta, odmah iza otre krivine u desno 300 m prije Vodnog dola. Krenite prema uskom, travnatom prolazu i izaite na
greben. (Vidi 2. fotografiju, opis na engl.) Na njemu ete primijetiti
prvu od ukupno tri piramide/gomile kamenja na Lojaniku. Ona nije
postavljena na samom vrhu grebena, ali vam ipak, ako je zapamtite,
moe dobro posluiti kao orjentir za silazak. Odatle idete dalje (JI),
uglavnom grebenom, preko tekog, kamenitog, davno spaljenog terena. Vrh na kome ugledate sljedeu piramidu nije glavni i moete
ga zaobii sa desne strane. Staza je veim dijelom oiena od
ostataka izgorelih grana, a u zadnjem, lakem dijelu i prosjeena
kroz borove kleke nema potrebe za probijanjem!
Trea piramida oznaava drugi prolaz izmeu kleka (kad
naiete na zeleni zid idete lijevo) prije prelaza ka glavnom vrhu.

131

DURMITOR South Lojanik 2091 m


Season: June-October
Access: Niki Sedlo Vodeni do. Or: abljak Vodeni do.
Elevation difference: about 300 m

Route description: Drive along the road towards the further end of
Mt Lojanik (See the picture above.) and leave the car in the widening on the left side of the road, immediately after the sharp curve to
the right, about 300 meters before Vodeni do. As you come closer
to the parking place you will notice the narrow grassy passage
between two rocky hills covered with dwarf pines.
That is the
beginning of the
only real ascent
in this little tour.
Follow a visible
path to the ridge.
There used to be
a small cairn at
its top. (I do not
know what the
constructors original intention was, but you may still find it useful
on your way back, because it shows the place where the trail goes
down to the starting point.) When you climb the ridge, continue towards the main peak over rugged terrain. The trail is unmarked, or
to be honest, almost non-existent. However, a couple of years ago it

132

was cleared from half-burnt branches and also cut through the pine
wood in its final, easier section.
On your way to
the summit you
will see two
mo-re
cairns:
one at the top of
a peak in the
middle of the
mountain
(?),
and the other in
the large dwarfpine area before crossing over to the main peak. This last cairn is
also the only one which has a real purpose when you find yourself
standing in front of an impenetrable green wall, do not give up,
just follow its edge to the left and in a minute or two you will come
across the pile of stones showing the way through.

Lojanik, uspon / Lojanik, the ascent

133

DURMITOR Sjever Pruta 2393 mnv


Period: jun-oktobar
Prilaz: a) Niki Virak Sedlo Vodeni do; b) Niki Pluine
Trsa Todorov do, ili Vodeni do; c) abljak Sedlo Vodeni do
Visinska razlika: oko 540 m

Opis ture: Pruta se moe peti iz pravca Todorovog dola, od Prijespe, od izvora arban... Ipak, ini se da je varijanta od Vodenog
dola najelegantnija, najlaka za opis, a i uklapa se u onaj vremenski
okvir od oko dva sata hoda u jednom pravcu. Dakle, iza spomenika
na desnoj strani puta (malo prije Vodnog dola) poinje staza prema
krkom drijelu (SI). Kad izaete na taj prelaz, birate lijevi krak
desni se sputa
ka krkim jezerima (slika je
u opisu za arene pasove) i
grebenom dolazite do vrha.
U posljednjem
dijelu ove ture
malo vie panje nije na odmet, a osim direktnog, postoji i zaobilazni pravac za
zavrni uspon sa sjeveroistone strane vrha.

134

DURMITOR North Pruta 2393 m


Season: June-October
Access: a) Niki Virak Sedlo Vodeni do; b) Niki Pluine
Trsa Todorov do, or Vodeni do
Or: abljak Sedlo Vodeni do
Elevation difference: about 540 m

135

Pruta from the west / Pruta sa zapada

Route description: Pruta can be climbed from several directions:


Todorov do, Prijespa, the spring arban Still, the most elegant
option, which also nicely fits our usual time-frame of a two-hourlong climb, seems to be the following: Leave the car in the parking
lot close to the memorial stone(s) before Vodeni do and follow
the trail to krko drijelo (NE). When you climb the pass, choose
the left track (the right one leads to krka and krka jezera see
the picture in the description of areni pasovi), enjoy an easy walk
along the ridge, and take your time while ascending the summit.

Pruta from Ruica (SW) / Pruta sa Ruice (JZ)

136

PIVSKA PLANINA Ruica 2141 mnv


Period: jun-oktobar
Prilaz: Niki avnik Virak Sedlo Prijespa
Ili: abljak Sedlo Prijespa. Proite Lojanik i Vodeni do
i doite do mjesta gdje se odvaja put za katun Boban i Burukovac.
Visinska razlika: oko 400 m

Opis ture: Automobil ostavljate na poetku makadama. Ima mjesta za par vozila. Upuujete se stranom prema siparu i irokom
prolazu izmeu upljike (2063) na desnoj i Bijelog koma (2034) na
lijevoj strani. Staze su jo vidljive. Birate gornju i im uete u prolaz (Zagulj) poinjete uspon kreui se to blie gredama na desnoj
strani. (Na treoj fotografiji, slikanoj sa istoka, prikazan je upravo
taj dio planine. Tokom penjanja glavni vrh ne vidite, iako je stalno
ispred vas.) Neposredno prije vrha slijedi mali pad, a onda zavrni,
neto strmiji uspon travnatim dijelom padine. (Ukupno oko 1h.)
Teren je grdan, ali je pogled na okolne planine odlian.

137

PIVSKA PLANINA* Ruica 2141 m


Season: June-October [*planina = mountain]
Access: Niki avnik Virak Sedlo Prijespa
Or: abljak Sedlo Prijespa. Drive past Mt Lojanik and
get to the place where a macadam road branches off to the left.
Elevation difference: about 400 m

Route description: Park the car at the junction (the diversion to the
katun Boban and Burukovac). Head for the scree slope on the right
and then enter Zagulj, the wide passage (cirque) between upljika
(2063) and Bijeli kom (2034). The trails are still visible. Choose the
upper one. Once you get to the passage, you will have at least two
options, but it is
(definitely) better
to keep closer to
the rough mass of
rock on the right.
The summit will
be in front of you
all the time even
though you dont
see it. The photo
on the next page shows a large part of the mountain. It was taken
from the south Bijeli kom (2034).

138

Immediately before the peak the trail drops a bit, and then comes
the final part of the ascent along the grassy section of the slope.

Ruica sa Bijelog koma / Ruica from Bijeli kom

The terrain is a bit difficult and not that pretty to look at,
but the views of the surrounding mountains are excellent, especially
in June or autumn.

Glavni vrh Ruice (Uspon od Prijespe)


The main peak of Ruica (Ascent option from Prijespa)

139

TRESKAVAC Burukovac 2094 mnv


Period: jun-oktobar (Izbjei vrue dane!)
Prilaz: Kao i za Ruicu.
Visinska razlika: neto vie od 400 m

Opis ture: Ako ne posjedujete dobar terenski automobil, parkirajte


na poetku makadamskog puta i krenite njime, ili stazom prema

140

jugu ka izvoru i lokvi ispred katuna Boban. Ipak, bilo bi dobro da


se dovezete do lokve, jer veini ljudi ta dodatna 2 km na povratku
tee padnu nego, na primjer, cijeli put do Treskavca (oko 5-6 km).

Vrh Burukovac se nalazi jugozapadno od katuna i do podnoja je


mogue doi bez veih oscilacija u visini. Kao to vidite na fotografijama, pristup planini i pravac zavrnog uspona su sasvim jasni.
Penjete se grebenom do usamljenog drveta i dalje slijedite oviju
stazu. Pogled na cijeli masiv Durmitora je izuzetan.

Napomena: Do Burukovca se moe doi i iz pravca Pive: Nki


Rudinice Gagovia most Bezuje; i preko avnika: Niki avnik Dui Dubrovsko. Ove ture su malo due, ali zato na putu
do vrha moete vieti (i proi) pravi prirodni tunel kroz planinu.

141

TRESKAVAC Burukovac 2094 m


Season: June-October
Access: The same as for Ruica.
Elevation difference: about 400 m

Route description: If you do not have an all-terrain vehicle, from


the junction head south, towards the spring (?) and the pond before
the katun called Boban. However, if you do not want to walk those
2 km uphill at the end of the tour, drive all the way to the pond and
park at the widening on the right. Burukovac is south-west from
there and, as you see in the pictures, the approach to the mountain
is very clear and easy. The foothill, or to be precise, the beginning
of the ridge can be reached without a significant height loss.
The views are wonderful, particularly towards the northeast the Durmitor area.
Additional notes: Burukovac can also be approached from Piva:
Niki Javorak Rudinice Gagovia most [most = bridge]
Bezuje; and avnik: Niki avnik Dui Dubrovsko. These
routes are a bit longer (particularly the one from avnik), but on the
way to the top you can see (walk through) a natural tunnel going
through the ridge of the mountain.
The recommended months for this tour are September and
October (to avoid the hot weather).

142

DODATAK: Izvor Morae, Vragodo


Period: maj-poetak juna
Prilaz: Niki Boan Dragovia polje Bojii Ljevita
Ili: Podgorica Mioska Dragovia polje Ljevita

(1: 50 00)

U Dragovia polju skreete desno (Iz Podgorice: lijevo!),


pa preko mosta putem koji je asfaltni, ali uzak i u poetku sa vrlo
velikim usponom. Nakon nekoliko kilometara ovaj put prelazi u lo
(ali sreom ne toliko dug) makadam. Kad uete u zaselak Tela do
prolazite kolu (velika zgrada na lijevoj strani puta) i vozite obalom
Morae. Automobil moete parkirati kod drvenog mosta.
Visinska razlika: oko 600 m

Opis ture: Staza poinje od mosta i vodi vas ulijevo, malo dalje od
rijeke, ali paralelno sa njom. Ubrzo dolazite do sipara koji prelazite

143

i ulazite u jaku stazu kojom se dalje kreete kroz umu. Neka vas ne
brine to vie ne vidite i ne ujete rijeku, samo nastavite uzbrdo.
Kad je ponovo ujete znaete da ste blizu ulaza u Vragodo. Izlazite
iz ume i obavezno pravite kratak odmor pored malog i izuzetno
lijepog sezonskog jezera. Zatim produavate dalje (JZ-Z). Kako se
primiete starom katunu na brijegu, huk vodopada na lijevoj strani
postaje sve jai...

Varijanta 2: Ako posjedujete terensko vozilo, do Vragodola moete


doi i od starog puta Niki-avnik, vozei kroz Krnovo polje (vidi
opise za Gackove grede i Trpezariju) i dalje prema jugozapadu, sve
do Ivan-begovog katuna u podnoju Krutaa kraj puta, 13 km .
Lijevo od katuna (SZ) imate dobru stazu koja e vas prebaciti
preko planinskog vijenca Trpezarija - Kapa moraka, a zatim i
sputiti do Vragodola (I-JI, ~ 4.5 km).

144

APPENDIX: The source of the river Moraa, Vragodo


Season: May-the beginning of June
Access: Niki Boan Dragovia polje Bojii Ljevita
Or: Podgorica Mioska Dragovia polje Ljevita
In Dragovia polje turn right (From Podgorica: left!), cross
the bridge, and follow the asphalt road which is very narrow and
rather steep. After a few kilometres this road turns into (fortunately,
not so long) macadam. When you get to the hamlet Tela do, pass
the school (the large house-like building on the left) and drive along
the river bank. Park the car near the wooden bridge.
Elevation difference: about 600 m

Route description: The trail will take you to the left, a little off the
river, but parallel with it. Cross the talus slope and enter the trail
going uphill through the forest. You will not see or hear the river
for a while, but when you do hear it again, you will know that you
are getting closer to Vragodo (Devils valley). You can rest at the
shore of a small seasonal lake and then proceed towards the west.
There is a katun on the hill and from there you will be able to see
and hear a beautiful waterfall coming out of the cliff your final
destination for the day.
The scenery and atmosphere are, as they say, unreal.

145

Fotografije: Ruica Stankovi

Option 2:
If you own a good all-terrain vehicle, you can also reach Vragodo
by driving through Krnovo polje (see the description of Gackove
grede) and, instead of turning to tirni do (Trpezarija, pg 29/31),
proceed all the way to Ivan-begov katun at the foothils of Kruta
the end of the road, 13 km. There is a trail going over the mountain
range Trpezarija - Kapa moraka (NW, left from the katun) and
than leading down to Vragodo (E-SE, ~ 4.5 km).

146

Biljeka o autoru
eljko (Brankov i Vinkin) Musovi je roen u Nikiu,
1965. godine. kolovao se u Nikiu i Sarajevu. Zavrio filozofski
fakultet, odsjek Anglistika. Vodi Planine Centralne Crne Gore je
njegova peta objavljena knjiga.
ivi i radi u Nikiu.
www.Smashwords.com/profile/view/ZeljkoMussovich
e-mail: zeljko.mussovich@gmail.com

147

SADRAJ / CONTENTS:
Uvod / Preface ...... 5, 7
Prekornica, Kula ...... 9, 11
Vojnik
Vojnik ...... 14, 16
Gradni vrh, Mramorje ...... 18, 19
etiri manja vrha / Four lower peaks ...... 21, 23
Gackove grede ...... 25, 27
(Ostrvica)
Trpezarija ...... 29, 31
Lola
V. Zebalac ...... 32, 34
Lijevno ...... 36, 37
Borovnik ...... 39, 40
Mali i Veliki urim ...... 42, 43
Ilijin vrh, Nikolin vrh ...... 45, 46
(etkov vrh)
Stoac
Stoac ...... 48, 49
Bodiguz ...... 50, 51
Kapa Moraka
Kruta ...... 53, 54
Lastva, tit ...... 56, 58
Zagradac ...... 60, 62
Vojinovac ...... 63, 64
Staraka gradina ...... 66, 67
Lukanje elo ...... 68, 79
Tali ...... 71, 72
Maganik
Petrov vrh/Kurozeb ...... 73, 75
Meei vrh ...... 77, 79
Rogoed ...... 82, 84
Bourni vrh ...... 86, 88
Sinjajevina
Korman ...... 89, 91

148

Babin vrh ...... 93, 95


Veliki Pearac ...... 96, 98
V. Starac ...... 99, 100
Jablanov vrh ...... 102, 103
Gradite
Vranova glavica ...... 105, 106
Torna / Babin zub ...... 108, 110
Durmitor Sjever
ljeme ...... 115, 117
Bandijerna ...... 125, 127
areni pasovi ...... 128, 130
Pruta ...... 134, 135
Durmitor Jug
Ranisava ...... 119, 120
Sedlena greda ...... 122, 123
Lojanik ...... 131, 132
Pivska planina
Ruica ...... 137, 138
Treskavac
Burukovac ...... 140, 142
Dodatak: / Appendix:
Izvor Morae, Vragodo ...... 143, 145

149

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