Word Vietnam September 2014 FA

contents
wordvietnam.com
SEPTEMBER 2014
062
092
058
THE TALK
INSIDER
010 / The Facebook Generation
054 / Savage Independence
Its good to talk
011 / The Big Five
056 / Two Lives Saved
016 / The End of an Era
The decline of the Saigon Tax Centre
050 / This is the Month

that Was
August was hungry ghost month
Vietnamese crews breakdance their way

to glory
The vital work of CMI and The Heart

Foundation
BRIEFINGS
In Hanoi, motorbike taxis now come
with a meter
092 / B-Boy World Cup
How arts caf Manzi is changing

the scene
Events to look out for this month
014 / Xe Om So
CULTURE
058 / Upwardly Mobile
Urban regeneration in Phu Nhuan
062 / 101 Things to Love About

Vietnam
The bottles half full
078 / Ha Giang Special
The most beautiful province in

Vietnam?
096 / Video Blogging in Vietnam
The rise of a new medium
EAT & DRINK

098 / A Wise Draft
Draft beer is suddenly getting popular.

So are beer towers
104 / Mystery Diner Hanoi
Hanoi gets itself a tasty burrito
105 / Street Snacker Hanoi
On the menu: Mien Tron
FASHION
014
078
106 / Futura
A modernist backdrop for a futurist look
Renaissance is an International British School

offering the National Curriculum for England
complemented by the International Primary
Curriculum (IPC), Cambridge IGCSE and the
International Baccalaureate.
EARLY YEARS
PRIMARY
SECONDARY
74 Nguyen Thi Thap, District 7, HCMC
(08) 3773 3171 - ext: 120/121/122
admissions@renaissance.edu.vn
www.renaissance.edu.vn
facebook.com/RenaissanceInternationalSchoolSaigon
youtube.com/RenaissanceVietnam
Congratulations to all
our IGCSE pupils 2014
100% pass rate
Well done to Honour
pupil Yoon Ki Hoon for
achieving 8 As
contents
120
116
186
HCMC
030 / To-Do List
TRAVEL
112 / Teaching English in Sudan
Darfur, desert and Sharia law. Not to be

sniffed at
116 / Give Vientiane a Chance
Tokyos Haneda airport does it differently
126 / Travel Promos

HANOI
040 / To-Do List
048 / Overscene
127 / Hanoi City Guide
130 / Recalling Hanoi
132 / Coffee Cup
134 / Food Promos
4 | Word September 2014 | wordvietnam.com
145 / HCMC City Guide

154 / Coffee Cup
Who needs Vang Vieng anyway?
120 / Airport Stories
038 / Overscene
158 / Top Eats

160 / The Empty Wok
172 / Food Promos
COLUMNS
136 / The Alchemist
138 / The Therapist
142 / Medical Buff
144 / Book Buff

148 / Business Buff
150 / Body and Temple

162 / A World of Good
164 / Know Your Business
174 / Student Eye
175 / Tieng Viet
FINAL SAY
180 / Dognapped
Dont get caught napping
182 / Tracking the Yeti
Bigfoot and rebel journalist Wilfred Burchett
186 / Taking the Plunge
Learning to swim the hard way
188 / Always Keep Ice in Your Beer
Just in time for the wedding season
192 / The Last Call
Snoop, Harvey Keitel and cocktails. Lola from

Last Call tells all
CONTRIBUTORS
This month we asked our team what they love most

about Vietnam. Here is how they responded.
DAVID HARRIS
Staff Photographer
I enjoy the rain and thunderstorms, I like
the way they clear the dirt from the air and
leave everything fresh and clean. It reminds
me of summer days at home.
ED WEINBERG
Deputy Editor
For me its the collaborative spirit, the sense
of openness and welcoming. It was a shock
to me, coming from the competitive east
coast of the US. If you say you play music
there, people will ask you to justify it Are you
in a
band? Here, people just say, Cool, what do you play?"
NICK ROSS
Chief Editor
Vietnams been good to me. Very good. Its
given me a family. Its given me a job that I
love. I couldnt have had the opportunities
Ive had here elsewhere. And for that reason,
what isnt there to love about Vietnam?
KYLE PHANROY
Photo Editor
I love the madness; you could even say Im
addicted to it. A man at a bar once phrased
it perfectly, Vietnam is chaotic harmony.
This is why I love Vietnam.
JULIE VOLA
Photographer
My favourite thing about Vietnam is the
landscape and the quality of the light.
VU HA KIM VY
Marketing & Illustration
Im not a drunkard, but I can get drunk
whenever and wherever I want in Vietnam.
MATT BENDER
Writer
The little geckos. My first trip to Southeast
Asia was five years ago and I remember
being at some little dive restaurant, seeing
a gecko shoot across the wall and thinking,
I dont want to live in a place where there
arent geckos shooting across the wall ever
again.
HOA LE
Staff Editor
Nuoc mam. I cant imagine eating nem
without it!
NIKO SAVVAS
Writer
I love wandering around the markets,
looking at all the exotic produce and
haggling with the old ladies, then going
home and ordering a pizza instead.
The editorial and design of WORD is carried out by Duong Huynh Advertising JSC
EDITORIAL
NICK ROSS
Chief Editor
editor@wordvietnam.com
ED WEINBERG
Deputy Editor
ed@wordvietnam.com
MADS MONSEN
Creative Director
mads@wordvietnam.com
HOA LE
Staff Editor
hoale@wordvietnam.com
KYLE PHANROY
Photo Editor
kyle@wordvietnam.com
DAVID HARRIS
Staff Photographer
david@wordvietnam.com
FRANCIS XAVIER
Staff Reporter
francis.xavier@wordvietnam.com
NGUYEN LOC
Layout Designer
loc@wordvietnam.com
MARK ALLAN
Website & Graphic Designer
mark@wordvietnam.com
IAN WILLS
Online Editor
ian@wordvietnam.com
VU HA KIM VY
Marketing
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ADMINISTRATION
BAO ROSS
General Director
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Chief Accountant
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Special thanks to Margaret Smith, Julie Vola, Glen Riley, Katie Jacobs, Jaslyn Wang, Cimigo, Gary
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Douglas Holwerda, Truong from Bookworm, Riccha Arora, Phil Kelly, Shane Dillon, David Mann,
Family Medical Practice, Teresa Wealleans, Ariel Gold, Matt Bender, Owen Salisbury, Niko Savvas,
Tim McMahon, Zoom, Ninh The Dung, Tae Jun Park and George Burchett
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KATIE JACOBS
Writer
The layers of history and complexities that
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and nem cua, and bicycles overflowing
with flowers, and drinking beer on the street.
Wait, I can only pick one!
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In xong v np lu chiu Qy 3 nm 2014.
The prelude
lthough well
received,
our last
few issues
have been quite
serious, which is why
we decided to do
something lighter this
month. Its a simple
concept to create a
cover story that helps
us to remember what
makes Vietnam the
country it is.
The idea came
after a recent trip
back to the UK. I
normally love going
home and get great
pleasure returning
to London, the city I

grew up in. But for
the first time since I
left Blighty all those
years ago, I found
myself having to deal
with the National
Health Service (NHS),
the local authorities
and receptionists
taught to block and be
unconstructive. It was
a nightmare.
It brought to mind
a famous scene from a
recent British comedy
series, Little Britain.
A female bank teller,
played by David
Walliams, gives advice
to customers. But
every time she enters
information into the
computer, she gets a
negative response. Her
retort to the customer?
The computer says
noooo.
That is how it felt
getting things done
in the UK, the fourth
richest country in the
world. In a nation that
we call developed,
when it comes to
bureaucracy it is
anything but.
And this is one of
the reasons I love
Vietnam. I can get
things done here. Yes,

there are hiccups I
hear the complaints.
Weve all heard them.
I've experienced them
myself. But when it
comes to day-to-day
communications, its
easy, its fast, and
the computer almost
never says noooo.
This issue is our
homage to everything
we love about
Vietnam, and to
everything that makes
this country unique.
We hope you enjoy
it! Nick Ross, Chief
Editor
THIS MONTH'S COVER

Cover by DH Advertising
Design by Vu Ha Kim Vy
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DO YOU HAVE ANY COMMENTS THAT YOU WOULD LIKE TO AIR? IF SO, REACH OUT AND TOUCH US
AT EDITOR@WORDVIETNAM.COM WERE AT YOUR FINGERTIPS.
The Elements of Style
Cover Story
Ive just seen your publication and

The Elements of Style (August 2014)
was really impressive. I particularly
like the presentation and the content
of the story. NTL
The Vung Tau Hydrofoil

There is talk of the hydrofoil service
[between Ho Chi Minh City and Vung
Tau] restarting. The operators are saying
that their Russian-built hydrofoils were
constructed circa 1995 and are therefore 20
years old.
The fact is that the larger boats with
three compartments and two engines are
the Meteor class hydrofoil of which 400
were constructed between 1961 and 1991.
Production ceased when the Soviet Union
collapsed, and although a few have been
built subsequently, they were already
by then using an outdated design as
evidenced by the riveted construction.
It will be interesting to see what
transpires regarding the maximum boat
age allowed if the service is to restart. But
if 25 years is stipulated, then the Meteor
boats will not qualify. CE
I loveeeeee your cover story about

The Elements of Style in the August
issue!!! Very thorough words about
the past. Actually the article comes
out right at the time when I'm so
into this topic. Thanks a lot for the
fantastic work. CM
The Elements of
hen we decided to take on

an architecture focus for
our cover story, we wanted
to avoid the quick-hit
approach. Every piece of infrastructure
every building is on a trajectory,
says urban explorer Michael Cook in a
conversation with BLDGBLOGs Geoff
Manaugh. Youre experiencing it at just
one moment in its very extended life.
Style
This is the problem with looking at architecture, at the buildings that surround us we
tend to see them at one point in time, without
their historical context and without any notion of the grand or not so grand ideas that
were behind their creation. In doing so, we
forget the problems its architects were trying
to solve, and what those solutions evolved
into. Even among explorers, Cook says,
we dont pay enough attention to process.
Our cities skylines are like libraries of

ambition and idealism, some in service
of their particular moment in time, some
with guiding wisdom for future generations. Without this context, were writing
words best published in guidebooks. Or,
as Cook says later in the interview, Were
taking postcard shots of the sublime.
In putting this cover story together, we attempted to avoid that mistake through taking a closer look at the buildings that make
up Vietnams two great metropolises. Our
cities look like they do for specific reasons,
reasons that are connected with everything
that makes up the identity of Vietnam. As
Manaugh says at a different point, Architecture [at its most fundamental level] is literature, poetry and mythology all in one.
Words by Jura Cullen, Katie Jacobs and Ed Weinberg
56 | Word August 2014 | wordvietnam.com
wordvietnam.com | August 2014 Word | 57
Top front cover this month. Loved the balance of colours and the detail you used in there. It
was perfect. DG
Great issue. Please pass on my compliments to the team. DB
Wasted Time
Your story on electronic
communication is very
accurate (Wasted Time, p10,
August 2014). My wife and
I spent nine days in Japan
and while I can praise
many things they do, as
well as their honesty and
efficiency, I was unable
to be online unless in a
hotel lobby or at rare hot
spots in the underground
shopping areas. While
they [the government
and private companies]
are working on it and
do offer alternatives, in
fact what does currently
exist seems to be from
the Stone Age when it

comes to modern levels of
communication. In room
Wi-Fi was pay-for, and even
getting on via Starbucks
required an outside
connection and response
time. By the time we
learned of alternative ways
it was time to go. RD
the talk
very country that develops fast goes through

two phases. The first is the physical phase
the structural and infrastructural transition of a
nation from what it was to what it will be. Part
of this includes increased individual wealth and a
wider access to goods or services that were previously
unavailable or available to only a select few.
The second phase is social and cultural. It is the phase
that sees people change socially, the period where the
mindset of the past alters itself into the mindset of the
present and the future. It is where conservative values
clash with contemporary, and where a tug-of-war
takes place between what should be allowed and what
shouldnt. Its one step forward, two steps back. It can be
rewarding; it can also be painful.
While in Vietnam the first phase continues apace, so
more recently the second phase has kicked in. It is the
phase led by smartphones, digital media and Facebook.
It is news read digitally rather than in newspapers,
communication through social media and messaging apps
rather than through standard phone calls or just catching
up with each other on the street. And it is a change in tastes,
a change in sensibilities, a questioning of the accepted
wisdom, a change in knowledge and understanding, a
change in worldview.
The Book
At the end of 2009 we wrote extensively about the
problems with using Facebook in Vietnam. The issue was
that the powers that be just didnt know what
to do with it, this phenomenon that
was taking the country by storm.
Here was this website that seemed
to strike a chord with the very
nature of being Vietnamese at the
time which, by country, Facebooks
growth rate was fastest in Vietnam.
Despite difficulty of access, its
popularity continued to soar. Make
the book undesirable, and it became
something to be desired.
The five years since have seen
an explosion in the sites usage.
Vietnam has 18 million Facebook
users 20 percent of the population.
And Vietnamese of all ages, particularly the young, seem
to spend their lives on the website.
The key to its popularity, though, is not just networking,
making friends and keeping in touch with people. Its
Facebooks troll-like ability to let you speak your mind.
And if you so wish, through faking your avatar, to speak
it anonymously. Whereas a decade ago people watched
their tongues, especially in public, now people seem to do
the opposite. Saying what you think in a public forum is
an attractive prospect, especially from the safety of your
computer or smartphone. In Vietnam, people, especially
the young, have taken to this like a fish takes to water.
Now they see self-expression as the norm.
The younger generation of today is growing up with
a freedom of speech, a freedom of expression that was
unknown in the past. Yes, there are boundaries but
arent there everywhere? Its something that must be
lauded no longer are automaton-like thought processes
the norm. This has been led by access not only to Facebook,
but also to LinkedIn and Twitter and Skype and Viber and
many more.
Forget Generation X or The Beat Generation. Todays
Vietnamese youth are the Facebook Generation, a
generation brought up on a different worldview to that of
the not-so-distant past. Nick Ross
The Facebook
Generation
With the popularity
of the book in
Vietnam has
come immense
change
the big five
05
27
FRIDAY
GOETHE1.
INSTITUTS
GERMAN FILM FEST
4.
For the fifth year, the Goethe-Institut

is bringing the best new films of
German cinema to Vietnam, and
theyll be screened in five locations
around the country including
Saigon, Hanoi and Danang.
There are films for everyone as
evidenced by the 50,000 filmgoers
who came out to last years edition
and a special workshop with
filmmakers Constanze Knoche and
Leis Bagdach at Saigons Hoa Sen
University on Sep. 8. The two write
screenplays for various successful
German television series and have
shot a number of feature films and
documentaries together, including
the film The Visitors.
Free tickets are available at GoetheInstitut and at the cinemas screening
the movies (Cinebox, 212 Ly Chinh
Thang, Q3, HCMC and The National
Cinema Centre, 87 Lang Ha, Ba
Dinh, Hanoi). For the full schedule,
head to goethe.de
16
TUESDAY
SHANE FILAN
Love him or hate him, the former

lead singer of Westlife is likely
to get the teens wooing like
deranged peacocks when he
performs at Cargo Bar on Sep.
16. And it wont be just the teens
getting down to tracks from
Filans album, You and Me, his
debut solo offering. It will also
be anyone else who maintains
an affection for that once oh-sopopular Irish boy band. Might
just be the whole of Vietnam.
Tickets start at VND500,000
(early bird) and rise to VND3
million (which includes the ability
to meet and greet Shane Filan). To
book go to ticketbox.vn and may
your dreams forever be filled with
images of Westlife
THE LARGEST SAILING

EVENT IN THE WORLD
In memory of recently-deceased
Olympic gold medalist Andrew
Bart Simpson, a worldwide
effort is on to launch the most
sailcrafts in the world, in
the name of charity and the
pursuit of a Guinness World
Record. Vietnams contribution
is organised by Jibes, and
happening in Mui Ne all day.
Dinghies and windsurfers are
all encouraged to take part,
as are sailors and non-sailors.
Although its all in the service
FRANK GOSSNER:
THE ARCHAEOLOGIST
OF AFRICAN VINYL
The man has undergone one

of the more interesting musical
metamorphoses that weve come
across, transforming himself from a
slightly sinister spinner of sexaholic
go-go beat at the 90s sleazefest
Vampyros Lesbos into one of the
worlds foremost collectors of
rare 70s- and 80s-era Afrobeat,
Nigerian disco, Ghana highlife and
the like, wrote Bruce Tantrum of
Time Out New York. Its true. From
one of the leading lights of the
intercontinental club scene to small
nightspots in the Guinean capital
Conakry, Franks career has run the
gamut of musical experimentation.
With his ridiculously rare collection
of globetrotting vinyl, hes bringing
Saigon a set that is unique the
world over.
Frank Gossner brings his Voodoo
Funk to The Observatory cnr. La Lai
and Ton That Tung, Q1, HCMC. The
show is co-sponsored by Everyones a
DJ. Doors are called for 10pm, entry
VND100,000, support by Dan Lo. Get
a preview at voodoofunk.com
21 SUNDAY
3.
SATURDAY
FROM BACH TO THE BEATLES
of fun, the press release does

point out, Few if any windsurfs
have registered worldwide, so
Vietnam windsurfers stand good
chances in world leaderboard
rankings! Few countries in Asia
are signed up for the challenge.
Register for the event by
emailing juliashaw2@gmail.com
by Sep. 12, with dinghy/windsurf
ability or experience, equipment
preference and any other relevant
details or questions, reconfirm on
Sep. 15 if no typhoons are forecast.
Its VND500,000 for adults,
VND100,000 for kids
No, youre not seeing double. The

Katona Twins are genuinely one
of the worlds best classical guitar
duos, known in particular for their
effortless ability to move between
classical and more popular music
genres.
Performing at The Conservatory
of Music (112 Nguyen Du, Q1,
HCMC) on Sep. 27, this is a unique
chance to see this prize-winning
act who have played at some of the
worlds most renowned venues.
Even more interesting is their set.
Including works by Handel, J.S.
Bach and Albeniz, there will also
be tunes by the likes of Tears for
Fears, The Beatles and of course
Queen, with the night finishing up
with a little Bohemian Rhapsody.
Free tickets are available from
Goethe-Institut, 18 Duong So 1, CuXa
Do Thanh, Q3, HCMC, from Sep. 20
wordvietnam.com | September 2014 Word | 11
briefings
BRIEFINGS
HANOI
At the beginning of August, Viet Pride staged its biggest show of solidarity yet
ride parades are a worldwide

phenomenon, reflecting the
acceptance of LGBT individuals in
their communities. In places where
identifying as LGBT is more charged, these
events take on a political character
sometimes turning confrontational. In more
accepting circumstances, pride marches turn
into celebrations. So it says a lot that Viet
Pride in Hanoi, entering its third year, was
marked more by cultural events than it was
by political stands.
Viet Pride kicked off on Aug. 3 with an
early morning bike ride through the streets
of Hanoi. More than 1,000 people took part
in the event, which headed to the American
Club Hanoi for the after-party and a day of
solidarity.
Celebrating Differences and

Similarities
The after-party was as diverse as the crowd,
with flea markets, live music, modern dance
and well-known local DJ Ngoc Mobile
blasting out uplifting dance tunes to the large
crowd till mid-afternoon. It was an event as
much about celebrating a landmark for the
LGBT community in Vietnam and its allies as
it was about just having a good time.
What really stood out was, regardless

of peoples beliefs, preferences or origins,
everyone came together to enjoy the
differences of being human. It was a real
show of giving people the space to be
themselves, no matter how others feel about
it.
This years special guest was Stuart Milk,
representing the Harvey Milk Foundation.
Harvey Milk was the first openly
homosexual political candidate to be elected
to public office in California, as depicted
in the Academy Award-winning films The
Times of Harvey Milk (1984) and Milk (2009).
One of most widely recognised LGBT rights
groups internationally, the Harvey Milk
Foundations show of support was another
sign that Vietnams progress on the issue is
registering.
Families, the young and old, local and
international, all came together to join in
the festivities. As the American Embassys
Michael Turner says, This is about people
taking pride in who they are... [to] the
Vietnamese LGBT community, were with
you.
The Challenges that Await

Although there is still a long way to go, Viet
Pride is a massive step in the right direction.

In Vietnam, theres a lack of understanding
and fear of what homosexuality is or about
how LGBT people act. There is a sense that
being openly gay will bring dishonour
to LGBT peoples families, and many are
pressured into traditional marriage. But
on the hopeful side, there is little physical
violence against people who identify as
LGBT in Vietnam, and there are few stories
of LGBT-related suicides like in other
countries.
The flip side is unfortunate, if not all too
common. Many LGBT people in Vietnam
live double lives in a state of fear, shame
and guilt. They hide their true selves from
their families and friends, often resulting
in damaging behaviour and mental health
issues. There is a real dont ask, dont
tell attitude here. If more of Vietnams
LGBT community came out and supported
Viet Pride, the numbers would be in the
thousands. Tim McMahon
Viet Pride 2014 was supported by the Civil
Rights Defenders, the American Embassy,
the Netherlands Embassy, Goethe-Institut,
6+, The Closet Hanoi, UNDP and USAID,
in collaboration with media partners Utopia,
AsiaOut and Hanoi Grapevine
Provided by Tim McMahon
Faces of Pride
briefings
o
S
m
O
Xe
S
FING
BRIE
I
HANO
Motorbike taxis in Hanoi now come with a meter
ts early morning and weve just descended the

night bus in My Dinh Bus Station. I want to take
one of the new star-spangled xe oms that come with
a meter. Ive seen them, Ive heard about them and
the feedback is positive. Theres no argument about
the cost or the mileage and its a set fee, dependent
on distance.
I say as much to the men gathering around us like
flies, touting for work. Im ignored, again and again.
Where are you going, Ill tell you how much it costs,
grunts one man, not once but four, five, six times.
I explain again, Im still ignored. Some of the men are
taxi drivers, some flirt with the xe om trade. Some are
there to watch.
An argument breaks out.
Cant you hear the Tay, says one, the early morning
Hanoi heat starting to rise.
F___ your mother, this is my gig, responds the
other, the man hassling me the most. His eyes are sleepfilled red and his hair is stuck to his head like grease. Id
be reluctant to get on the back of his bike even if I had
no choice.
We walk round to the other side of the bus to find our
luggage in the hold. A xe om rocks up, a xe om with a
meter. The friend Im with is amazed. Did she think Id
been kidding? Ive never seen one of these before, she
exclaims. Shes as excited at the novelty as I am.
But its not the novelty that makes this such a good
innovation. Its the fact that customers, the passengers
paying the fare, wont get scammed. Unless the meter is
tampered with, of course.
A Xe Om Revolution
Appearing at the beginning of the year in Hanoi, xe om
so have begun proliferate. There are now numerous

companies bringing together otherwise disparate xe om
drivers. Using cellphones to communicate, together they
teamwork the trade like a taxi company.
In return for providing work, the drivers rent a meter
and pay 30 percent commission to the company. Tax is
paid by the company, and the remaining 70 percent of
the fare the drivers keep for themselves.
My driver takes me on a back route through My Dinh
and then Cau Giay to link up with Hoang Quoc Viet.
Do you understand eastern culture? he asks me,
having switched from politics.
Fairly well, I reply.
But as we talk, my knowledge is obviously not good
enough for him I havent read the key pieces of
literature by the likes of Nguyen Du.
Ill give you a copy, he tells me. Ill bring it round
to you. When are you at home?
Trust me to get a cultured xe om driver. Night, I tell
him.
When we arrive in Xuan Dieu the meter reads just
over 11km. At VND6,000 a kilometer, thats VND70,000
to me and you. I give him two fifties and ask for
VND20,000 change. A tip.
He searches everywhere. Hes left his wallet at home.
Ill bring it round later, with the literature for you to
read, he says.
Sure, I reply.
Normally I would search out some change, but in this
instance I dont bother. My instinct tells me the mans
error is genuine if he does or doesnt turn up later I
really dont mind. Hes trying to make an honest living.
And that is why the concept of xe om so seems to
work. Nick Ross
briefings
BRIEFINGS
HANOI
Attimi: Images
of the Ordinary
Barbara Pellizzari turns her eye from the city scenes of
her last show to the moments happening within
Wonder Wrapped in Workaday

Reality
Finding wonder in the Vietnamese normal
is what guides her work. I decided to
represent all the things I was amazed
by, she says. For example in Europe,
orchids are considered like a very valuable,
sophisticated thing. Here you have orchids
everywhere. You go on the most modest

balcony, they have orchids, to the fanciest
house, they have orchids.
Most of all, shes amazed by the people
here by their rhythms and their sense of
connection to the land and each other.
The people, Barbara says, they have
their own rhythm, they have their own
time... they go with nature. When they want
to have a sleep, they have a sleep, when they
want to have a break, they have a break.
They have a very strong sense of family. And
I want to grab all of these moments.
Using typical scenes as her raw material,
she cuts away at their contexts and focuses
on their soul. Stripping away her subjects
clothing, she wraps them in patterns of
common objects cups of coffee, bowls
of pho, Buddhist wheels, plastic stools, @
symbols, flowers, packs of cigarettes and
333s the things that people surround
themselves with in their everyday lives.
These are the things Barbara sees written
all over the culture. Im combining the
tradition with the contemporary moment,
she says. Vietnamese and this is the very
nice thing about them theyre very strong
about what is their soul, what is their history
and what is their tradition... [theyre able to]
take in the modern while keeping the old.
I mention Kehinde Wiley a New Yorkbased portrait painter who places AfricanAmericans in simulations of well-known
Provided by Barbara Pellizzari
arbara Pellizzari sees something

most miss in everyday life.
Instead of seeing a typical family
squeezed onto a motorbike, she
sees the gentle grasp of a shoulder, the
childs hands touching the dashboard, in
imitation of his father.
These scenes are the source material for
her next show, called Attimi, Italian for
moments. Hosted by the Italian Embassy
in Hanoi, it opens on Sep. 18 at Casa Italia,
the one-year-old Italian cultural centre. This
series is part of her getting to know Vietnam
a process that started with huddled
buildings and butterflies transported
downriver, in last years Cargo at Ho Chi
Minh Citys deciBel.
Before she moved to Vietnam two years
ago, she spent 12 years teaching and creating
art in Shanghai and Beijing. And before that,
she was an art restorer in Florence, Italy;
Chicago, US and Karachi, Pakistan. And
now shes in Vietnam, amazed by what she
sees around each corner.
paintings, taking their expressions and

casual wear out of their familiar settings.
In doing so, he toys with our assumptions
and makes us take another look at people
wed thought wed seen. It seems somewhat
similar to what Barbara is doing here.
Look at this image for example she
points at a picture of a shirtless man. I
havent done this guy because this guy
doesnt have enough clothes on for my
project. But this looks like a real pose from
Mannerism, from the Renaissance again. If
you look at the traditional paintings, its
really from that time.
So you see, there is Mannerism in Vietnam.
And its very poetic. Ed Weinberg
Attimi debuts on Sep. 18 at Casa Italia, 18 Le
Phung Hieu, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi
briefings
HANOI
e
iv
s
s
a
M
e
r
o
M
Getting
BRIEFINGS
On the eve of breaking into the mainstream, the founder of Hanoi Massive talks
community, hangovers and finding interesting stuff to do in short, all of the things
youll find in an average scroll down the Hanoi Massive Facebook group page
he Facebook group page Hanoi

Massive was born out of a need for
connection for the community,
for people looking for shoe
street or the rope market, for people
looking to air grievances theyre too
polite to mention in person. Were pretty
sympathetic to that need Word was
founded with a similar mission.
Now, after three successful years and
almost 20,000 members later, Massive
is planning a rebirth this one on an
independent platform, one thats better
equipped to serve the online community
specific to Hanoi its helped create. Here
we speak to founder Julian Talbot, who
hails from Bristol, UK, the home of Massive
Attack and the underground scene often
known as the Bristol Massive.
Word: Whats your background, and how did
you end up in Vietnam?
Julian Talbot: Pretty much your standard
issue English teacher. Id been back and forth
to Southeast Asia for a few years prior to
moving here and loved the region. England
wasnt working. So once the decision was
made I bought a one-way ticket to Saigon and
was gone a month or so later. I was always
aiming for Hanoi as I knew a couple people
already up here and was sick of the Facebook
pictures! Its coming up on three years now
and its still the best decision Ive made.
Word: Where did you get the idea for Hanoi

Massive?
JT: There really wasnt any idea or thought
put into it. One hungover Saturday I started
a group so my friends and I could sort out
dinner plans, beers and work... and things
grew from there.
Word: Why has it been so successful?
JT: Its success has been a constant surprise.
In hindsight its easy to see why the concept
has worked so well but at the time, hitting
50 members was a big deal considering there
were only 13 or so to start with.
I guess the success can largely be
attributed to how difficult this city can be
at times, and the lack of [easily-accessible
online resources]. Most of us come from
very easy-to-organise lives, and when you
have to find everything out the hard way
in a new city, something like Massive is
pretty handy.
Word: Youve got plans for developing both the

Hanoi Massive name and the services provided
by Hanoi Massive. What are they? And when do
you expect this to happen?
JT: Yeah, wheels are in motion and
somethings coming up real soon. Ive
been thinking about what made the group
popular and how to improve on this, but the
problem is Facebook is very limited.
The plan now is to move onto a new
platform and this opens up all sorts
of possibilities. It really is quite exciting,
theres the ability here to combine social
media with a travel/city guide in a way
that hasnt really been done before. By
putting these together we can create a fully
functional online community that is specific
to Hanoi.
I dont want to give too much away at
the moment, but weve got some big plans,
with GPS and a one-stop shop for news and
events. Going to be big!
Word: Do you think the growing popularity of

Facebook in Vietnam is part of the reason for the
groups success?
JT: Like it or not, social networking is a
part of life now. This couldnt of happened
without Facebook, so of course its helped.
But the success of the group is a result of
the members creating a mixture of Hanoi
Google and a soap opera. Useful, but also
entertaining.
Word: How do you think this will benefit people

living in Hanoi?
JT: Ive been here for long enough to know
what helps and what doesnt. This next
stage is being designed on the back of years
of battling Hanoi and all its quirks. Time
will tell if its a success but Im confident
its going to work.
For now, you can find the group by searching
Facebook for Hanoi Massive
Run walk stroll
,
or
This is a fun morning for everyone and a great team building event with
procceeds going to charities the length of Vietnam.
Au Lac Do Brazil II Hanoi

6A Cao Ba Quat, Ba Dinh Dist
Tel:
T
el: (04) 3845 5224 - Fax: (04) 3747 4330
pr_hanoi@aulacdobrazil.com
Au Lac Do Brazil I HC M C
238 P asteur
asteur, Dist. 3
Tel:
T
el: (08) 3820 71 57 - Fax: (08) 3820 7682
pr@aulacdobrazil.com
briefings
BRIEFINGS
HCMC
The End
of
an Era
Another Saigon landmark
is being replaced. But at
what cost?
hen it was announced in midAugust that the Saigon Trade

Tax Centre, known locally as
Thuong Xa Tax Sai Gon, was
being knocked down, there was shock. The
latest in a long line of buildings sacrificed
to the emerging future concept of Central
Ho Chi Minh City, the old shopping centre
will make way for a 40-storey Tax Plaza
to be connected to the Opera House
metro station and the four-storey deep
underground mall running under Le Loi.
But the shock was not at the
redevelopment since the mid-2000s the
site has been one of 20 downtown buildings
marked for reconstruction. Rather its the
time scale. Business owners have been
given just two months to relocate an
impossible scenario, especially if they want
to find an equivalent location in District
1. Said one handicraft shop owner to
local newspaper, Tuoi Tre, We [had been
planning] to move to a shopping mall on
Le Thanh Ton, but the monthly rental fee
[of VND30 million] is too high We tried
to bargain but they didnt even listen to
us, saying they have a fixed price and we
[have] no choice.
Many other business owners are
experiencing the same problems without
their home in the Saigon Tax Centre and the
relatively low rents, they are being priced

out of doing business in District 1. The result
was that throughout August, many of the
shop owners were selling off their products
at huge discounts.
A Date with History

Inaugurated in November 1924, according
to historicvietnam.com, the Grands Magasins
Charner (GMC) was not the first department
store in Saigon that honour went to Au
Nouveauts Catinat, which was opened
in 1887. However, prior to World War
II, GMC was certainly the place to shop.
As one guidebook published in 1937
describes it, GMC was the best stocked
store in Indochina, with the widest choice,
incomparable price and all of the facilities
one would find in a Paris department store.
Comprised of departments dedicated
to perfumery, jewellery and silverware,
millinery, lingerie, fabrics and silks,
haberdashery, shoes, leather goods,
porcelain, furnishings, hardware, toys,
music, household goods, food and much
more, the GMC attracted all breeds of
shoppers. But if the advertising from the
late 1920s is anything to go by, it was
the weapons, ammunition and hunting
accessory departments that brought in the
shoppers.
With France relinquishing their hold on

Vietnam, so in 1960 the department store
was renamed the Saigon Tax Trade Centre
in response to the owners starting to rent
out space to individual merchants. After
reunification in 1976, the landmark received
another makeover this time it became an
exhibition centre for industrial machinery.
However, just five years later it was turned
back into a department store this time the
City General Department Store. In the mid1990s the old name Thuong Xa Tax Sai Gon
was brought back.
The decline of this Saigon landmark that
still retains many of its original features
doesnt just mark the end of an architectural
and historical era. It marks a change in
peoples lives.
Although Satra, the present owner of the
site, has decided to exempt shop owners
from two months rental fees, and is trying
to give shop owners a place in the new
shopping centre that will be planned, for
many the gap between doing business now
and in a few years time when Tax Plaza
opens will be too long. Theyve been offered
alternatives Satra have shopping centres in
District 8 and District 10. But neither offer the
District 1 location and the unique customer
and product mix that have made Saigon Tax
Centre so popular. Nick Ross
briefings
BRIEFINGS
HCMC
In Transition Nha Lo
Glen Riley discovers beauty in a vanishing part of Saigon
ha Lo is an apartment complex
most skip over, passing the street
markets and roadside eateries near
the intersection of Co Bac, Co
Giang and De Tham. At first glance, this
cluster of housing also known as Chung
Cu Co Giang may make one wary due to
the ill repair of the neighbourhood. But
there is a beautiful charm to this late
1930s French-built complex. Much like
any developing city, this relic of Saigon
will soon disappear to make way for new
development.
When I visited, a local resident acted
as my escort. She was born in this area,
and grew up in a time when this part of
District 1 was on the citys southern edge.

According to her, this is a place with a bad
reputation. At one time it was known as a
haven for gangsters and drug dealers. She
told me that if someone was wanted by the
authorities, they would hide out in Nha Lo.
But now, the area has softened. You
can be at ease as you walk through the
alleyways of Nha Lo in the daytime and
enjoy its laidback pace. Kind residents
might even invite you into their homes for
morning tea.
Long Exposure
I have visited this community several times
over the last five years photographically,
it's stunning. There is a unique character

to the complex. The textures, the light,
the people and the culture convey a sense
of what Vietnam was in days gone by.
Unfortunately, the process of displacing
residents started last year the complex
was originally planned to be vacant by this
April. Once the land is cleared, with the
exception of two temples this square block
will be redeveloped.
It will be interesting to see whats in
store for the Co Giang area. This is the first
major development in the ward since the
mid 1990s. As the saying goes, you cant
stop progress but you can certainly try
to understand it.
briefings
BRIEFING
HANOI
TropFest
Hanoi
The worlds largest film
festival comes to Hanoi
ea-light candles wink from between the

garden foliage, a large frog croaks in the koi
pond, and a movie projector illuminates the
large outdoor wall. Behind the bar, the staff
of BackYard Bia Hoi are busy preparing food and
drinks for the crowd assembled to watch a selection
of short films from this years TropFest, the worlds
largest short film festival.
Starting out in the Tropicana Cafe in Sydney 21 years
ago, the official website describes the first TropFest as
a dude, a cafe, and one simple idea. Originally called
the Tropicana Short Film Festival, the first event was
planned as a casual gathering of cast, crew and friends
to watch the short film made by festival founder John
Polson. These days, with the festival attracting millions
of viewers in nine locations around the world, TropFest
is not only the biggest film festival in existence, it is also
one of the worlds only truly international ones.
This year, TropFest expanded again with the opening
of its new South-East Asia (SEA) arm in Malaysia.
Kicking off in Penang this past January, the festival
welcomed 180 entries from nine Southeast Asian
countries. Over 4,000 people turned out to watch the
screening of the 12 finalist films, with the top prize being
taken by the 24-year-old Cambodian, Sothea Ines, for
her film Rice. We believe that great films dont have
to cost millions to be seen by millions, say the festival
organisers. Its all about getting out, doing it, and
sharing it with the world.
Hit the Road, Jack

In the wake of the TropFest SEA success, festival
organisers are hitting the road, encouraging film makers
to join the competition, while displaying some of these
exceptional short films to audiences around the region.
So on a recent balmy Hanoi evening, the TropFest
roadshow crew set up camp at BackYard Bia Hoi, a

garden bar and restaurant that has become a fixture in
the Tay Ho neighborhood since its opening earlier in
the year. Reclining on wooden chairs throughout the
verdant backyard setting, guests were treated to five
short films. Feasting on plates of fresh Vietnamese food
washed down with cold Hanoi beer, the audience sat
captivated by a series of films that managed to inspire
laughter, sadness, fear, and uncertainty all within seven
minutes.
We want you. Tropfest managing director Joe Sidak
and festival director Lisa Case told the crowd at the end
of the evening. Entries for next years TropFest SEA are
open and as long as you are a resident of Southeast Asia,
you can apply.
I have invited TropFest back again in mid-October
for another viewing, says Pete Wilkes, owner of
BackYard Bia Hoi. This is something we will do four to
five times a year.
And judging by the positive reception, Hanois filmgoers agree. After the films had ended, nobody seemed
in a hurry to leave. The kitchen was still open and the
cold beer was flowing; the perfect setting for a movie
night. Katie Jacobs
To see more of Tropfest, go to tropfest.com. Backyard Bia
Hoi is at 15/50 Quang Khanh, Tay Ho, Hanoi
SE
OF
WO
VIETNAM
RD
L FIE FA C E
MAKE
ey
n
o
y o ur m
Maybe its with the Queen of England.

Maybe its simply with your dog. Maybe it's
by yourself. Or maybe its with friends in a
bizarre location. It doesnt matter. Word is
running a competition in search of the best
selfie taken in Vietnam.
The deal is simple. You can use a wide range
of photography techniques to take your
photo, you can even use your camera or
your smartphone - we have two entry
categories. But, as the photographer, you
must manually push the shutter button to
take the photo.
Simply take your selfie, make sure its a
minimum of 500kb and send it to Kyle
Phanroy at kyle@wordvietnam.com by
October 15th. The results will be published
in November 2014.
The winner of the competition will be
featured as our front cover model later in the
year.
ADVERTISE WITH US & GET NOTICED
Email bao@wordvietnam.com for HCMC
and giang@wordvietnam.com for Hanoi
briefings
BRIEFING
NATIONAL
Vo Trong Nghia, Rebel Architect
ick Ahlmark,
whos produced
and directed
docs for The
Guardian, Vice and Al
Jazeera English, followed
Vo Trong Nghia for two
weeks to film Greening
The City, his contribution
to the Rebel Architecture
series that focuses on
architects around the world
challenging conventions.
Debuting last month on Al
Jazeera English and this Sep.
8 on Al Jazeera YouTube,
the film gives Nghias
idealism the attention it deserves.
Vietnams most
recognisable
young architect
gets the
documentary
treatment
in Al Jazeera
Englishs Rebel
Architecture series
Word: How did this project get

started?
Nick Ahlmark: I was pitching a
different project at the Al Jazeera
English offices in London, and the
commissioner I was talking to
introduced me to Daniel Davies, who
is the executive producer and creator
of the Rebel Architecture series. He
explained the series concept, to profile
six different architects in six different
regions of the world using different
directors for each episode. The
common theme that binds the series is
that these architects all use architecture
as a form of resistance or activism.
I thought it was a really unique
and cool concept and something Id
not seen before. He knew Id made a
lot of films in Asia Pacific and said he
was looking to include an architect
from the region. So I pitched him the

story of Vo Trong Nghia and after
developing the idea together [with
Daniel] he eventually gave the project
the green light.
Word: Whats your connection to
Vietnam?
NA: My dad lived there from 1994
to 2012, so Ive been going back and
forth for 20 years and seen it change.
Thats why it was great to do this film,
because its not just about Nghia its
about the country. I love Vietnam and
have a strong emotional connection
to it I hope that comes across in the
film.
Word: Do you get the sense that
Nghia considers himself as someone
against the popular current?
NA: I think its a fact that he is
someone who is going against normal
paradigms in the context of Vietnam,
although he probably wouldnt really
want to say that himself. But if you
watch the film and know anything
about him its undeniable. In that
sense he is a rebel, hence why he fits
perfectly into the Rebel Architecture
series concept.
Word: What did you see behind the
scenes in following Nghia around?
NA: Honestly speaking, hes pretty
much how you see him in the
film, relentlessly focused, upbeat,
pragmatic. He can also be quite tough
with his staff, but to manage that
many projects and achieve that level
of success you can understand why

he has to be. He tries to block out
unnecessary distractions. But at the
end of the day he believes in himself
and his mission and I think this
conviction is what drives him.
Its also important to remember
that he lived for 10 years in Japan and
speaks fluent Japanese, which has
really moulded him as a person and
an architect; he has a totally different
outlook because of it. It was amazing
to see him in meetings switching
fluidly between Japanese, English and
Vietnamese there cant be many
people in the world who can do that!
Word: How do you think Nghias
work will affect the face of Vietnam
in the future?
NA: Its hard to say because hes just
one person, but the more international
awards he wins the more recognition
he gets in Vietnam and the more
influence he has. If he can start
initiating larger urban plans under his
green mantra he could become very
influential.
If you watch the film you will see he
is working on a massive project called
the Vertical Farming City. This kind of
project could become more common
in the future. Also he is pushing for
the use of bamboo in architecture,
which could change the look of
Vietnams cities.
See Nick Ahlmarks work at facebook.
com/storytimefilms, or check his Twitter
@Storytime_Films
Drinking for a Cause

Preserving the endangered snow leopard
ow do you protect an animal from

extinction? Its a question that one
entrepreneur and wildlife enthusiast
Stephen Sparrow found himself
grappling with. His solution? Use the name of
the animal to create a brand, and then try and
market it.
Launched in 2006, Snow Leopard vodka is a
top-end, spelt-grain vodka distilled in Poland
for a key purpose to prevent the extinction
of the snow leopard. Found in 12 countries
around Central Asia, estimates suggest there
are now only 5,000 snow leopards left in the
wild, the majority in five key countries: China,
Mongolia, India, Pakistan and Kirgizstan.
If we can sell 150,000 cases annually, says
Stephen, then 15 percent of profits will equate
to a million dollars invested in communitybased conservation projects. Weve been told
that an incremental million dollars a year will
provide the step change to get the snow leopard
off the endangered list within a generation.
A Grain of an Idea
Stephens desire to conserve the snow leopard
started on a 2005 trip to Nepal. Previously
working on the commercial side for Formula
1 team Jaguar Racing, and then in the drinks
industry, the former city lawyer decided
to take a redundancy package when his
employers, Allied Domecq, were bought up
and split into separate companies.
I was 35 years old and wanted to do
something different, he recalls. I got a nice
payout and I thought, Im going to do all
these things I wanted to do go to Argentina
to learn the tango, go trekking in The
Himalayas.
It was when he was in The Himalayas that
he found out about the existence of the snow
leopard.
Out of ignorance I didnt know if they were

still alive or a mythical creature, he recalls, but
when I did some research I realised a couple of
things. They were the least well-researched of the
big felines, hence the least well-resourced from
a conservation point of view. Also the prognosis
was that there was a good chance of getting the
snow leopard off the endangered list.
Knowing that he would need to start
earning a living, and determined to do
something entrepreneurial, he decided to
trademark the name Snow Leopard and create
a luxury vodka, thus giving back 15 percent of
all profits to conservation.
The start-up period was tough some of
Stephens earliest deliveries were made in
person on a bicycle. And for the first couple
of years he worked out of his London flat not
drawing a salary, instead giving anything he
could towards his cause.
But by selling the drink in the more
fashionable bars in London, the vodka was
quickly picked up by Londons celebrity set.
Soon a number of cocktails emerged including
the Feline Fatale and the Miaowtini.
Peter Phillips, the grandson of The Queen,
got on board, serving Snow Leopard as the
only spirit at his 2008 wedding at Windsor
Castle. His better-known cousins, William
and Harry, also became fans, ordering Snow
Leopard for their private parties. However, it
wasnt until last year when Stephen teamed up
with drinks company Edrington, that he was
able to push the brand further afield. In this
instance Asia. Snow Leopard was launched
in Vietnam in early August and is presently
available in Ho Chi Minh City.
The Conservation
Snow Leopard Vodka supports a range of
conservation initiatives.
A big problem for snow leopards is

retribution killings because they typically take
livestock, explains Stephen. Youve got to
sympathise with the herders by western
standards they are very poor. But if we start
insurance schemes with the herders these
arent handouts, these are self-sustaining,
theyve got to pay in when something
happens, these livestock are replaced and
theres no need for retribution killing.
He adds: Vaccination projects follow the
same logic. The herders lose more livestock
to natural disease [than to snow leopards].
Vaccinated, even if you get a few predator
attacks, theyre going to be more prosperous.
So again the local herders start supporting
snow leopard conservation.
However, the most rewarding project is an
economic enterprise for the women. In the past
the women in the key areas were selling raw
fleece for pennies. But if you spin that raw
fleece into wool, its five times more valuable.
So we pay for spinning wheels, teach women
how to spin wool, teach them how to make
handicrafts, provide an international market
place. A familys income will probably treble if
an adult female is part of that scheme.
In return, the women are asked to influence
the local community. 20 percent of their income
is held back by Snow Leopard Enterprises as
a bonus so that if a snow leopard is killed in
their territory, the women lose their bonus.
This allows them to really influence what
happens in that patch.
I saw a snow leopard killed a few years
back [in the Gobi Desert], he adds. The
nearest police station was about 200 miles
away and the police had to come first and
foremost to protect this guy who had killed
the snow leopard, to protect him from being
lynched by the women.
Provided by Juergen Eichhorn
Charity
of
the
Month
Stars of Vietnam
When Juergen Eichhorn first saw the painful side of the northern province of Hai
Duong, it happened by chance. Hes still unsure if it was an accident or destiny.
ts been more than seven years,

Juergen says, since I drove my
motorcycle from whats now
known as the Nam Cuong Hotel
towards the centre of the city. It started to
pour and I was looking for a quick shelter.
Thats when I saw the roof of the social
centre of Hai Duong and it looked like
the perfect place to stop. When I walked
inside, I found children on crutches and in
wheelchairs. It was around lunchtime and
there were probably 1,000 children in the
yard. Shocked by his presence, the children
retreated. Everybody wanted to rush back
to their rooms or classrooms.
Undeterred, Juergen went inside. What
I saw next was shocking no chairs,
no tables, no dishes nothing. The kids
received their food in cupped hands with
some sauce on top, and that was their lunch.
The children looked very thin and there
simply wasnt enough food to go around.
Accidental or not, Juergen couldnt unsee
the desolation hed glimpsed. He started
asking around, soliciting help and talking
to family and friends back home in Bolzano,
the mixed German and Italian-speaking
capital of the autonomous Italian province of
South Tyrol.
Finally help arrived, in the form of
Paul Christanell. Juergen says, He was a
godsend. Paul went with me to the social
centre and was speechless. He couldnt
believe his eyes, and with the help of
pictures and conversations, he brought us
our first donation from the Missions AMT [a

Christian missionary aid group, specialising
in humanitarian projects in remote areas] in
Bolzano. Finally, we had a starting point.
Brick by Brick
Fast-forward seven years, and Juergen
has continued with his accidental, fated
mission. With Pauls help, they restored
this childrens home piece by piece. They
brought in furniture and kitchen appliances,
education and training.
In four years, Juergen says, we set
up 32 classrooms equipped with various
machinery to teach the children useful
trades. Education and training gives these
children a chance in life. Today they are
able to build chairs and tables themselves.
The local industries support them, and the
kids find placements where they can earn a
living.
In 2013, Stars of Vietnam was born.
With operating costs funded by the Italian
restaurant Ristorante Italia (1 Pham Hung,
Thanh Binh, Hai Duong, italia.vn) and the
tourism service AEA (aea.vn), Juergen has
helped set up in Hai Duong. 100 percent of
the money reaches the poor ones, he says.
With increased awareness and support,
Stars of Vietnam has started to help with
more of Hai Duongs larger problems. In
particular, theyve concentrated on the
plight of those affected by Agent Orange, the
terrible legacy of which has sprawled over
generations in Hai Duong.
Theyre now focused on building a new

home for the 100 children they support,
who are blind from the effects of Agent
Orange. In 2013, a room collapsed in the
old childrens home, injuring six children.
Again this year, the stairs threatened
collapse, which Stars of Vietnam prevented
by installing steel reinforcements. But they
saw a new childrens home was a necessary
thing.
Inspired by a charity ride that one of their
benefactors took in which he drove from
Germany to Vietnam by motorbike, selling
the kilometres he travelled to sponsors for
a Euro each Stars of Vietnam decided
to sell bricks to the new construction.
They started leaving bricks on the tables
in Ristorante Italia. An Italian donation
enabled them to start work on the new
700sqm childrens home, but theyll need
more help to finish it.
And that responsibility, reader, falls on
all of us. Whether it was accident or fate
that led you to this page, youre here now. It
doesnt take much, just VND10,000 to add
a brick to their new walls. And thats how
you build the future brick by brick. Ed
Weinberg
To contribute to Stars of Vietnams building
campaign, buy a brick for only VND10,000 or
buy 100 for VND1 million. Follow the campaign
at starsofvietnam.net (youll have to use your
handy online translator if youre not proficient
in German) or donate directly to paypal@
starsofvietnam.net
Cat of the
Month:
Sharky
Photo by Julie Vola
harky got his name for being bitey

as a young kitten but now he
is more of a lovey dovey than a
bitey sharky. He came with his
sweet sister Snowball to a Tram Cuu Ho
Meo foster family when he was only five
weeks old, a whole four months ago. The
two cats are inseparable; they love each
other as much as they fight. Sharky has
a passion for sneaking out as soon as the
door is open, but as soon as hes out he
misses home and will meow within five
minutes to get back inside. He is a very
loving cat who just wants to sleep on the
laps of TV-watching humans.
He is active, neutered, fully vaccinated
and waiting for you to take him home today.
Contact tramcuuhomeo@gmail.com for more
information.
to do list
02
Ho Chi Minh City
03
TUESDAY
MARKETING
AND MEDIA FOR PROS
National Day
CARAVELLE HOTEL
caravellehotel.com
If a restaurants going to
shine, it better do it when the
spotlight is on. Caravelles
Opera 1 & 2 have taken that
lesson to heart, and their
chefs are coming together to
give you food fireworks over
four action stations and a
variety of sea and land-based
offerings all of Vietnams
rich natural resources. Or
just kick back with a glass
of free-flow house wine and
enjoy one of Saigons coolest
views VND1.2 million++
per person.
NOVOTEL NHA TRANG

novotel-nhatrang.com
The Square restaurant is
adding a tasty offer to a
good getaway idea enjoy
buy-one, get-one on a special
seafood buffet dinner from
WEDNESDAY
Most of those marketing mixers

are little more than an excuse
to get drinks with interesting
people, but M2s new concept is
a bit more hands-on. Created as
a monthly forum for people in
advertising, digital, marketing,
media and technology to meet
industry experts and each other,
M2s Sep. 3 event at the Caravelle
Hotel will give those in the know
a chance to learn more.
Three speakers will give
networkers something to icebreak
with Andrew Duck, Managing
Director of Audience Media,
tackling Publishing in the Digital
Age; Phi Nguyen, Managing
Partner of Indochina, World
Franchise Associates, giving a

talk entitled From Vietnam to the
World Can Vietnamese Brands
Make It?; and Jay Kumar Kamala,
Head of Quantitative Research at
Epinion Asia, speaking on Digital
Audience Measurement.
Each presenter will be
speaking for 15 to 20 minutes,
and will then lead a Q&A.
This will all be followed by a
networking party.
The M2 Marketing and Media
Network event will be held on Sep.
3, 6pm to 8.30pm at Caravelle
Hotel, 19-23 Lam Son Square,
Q1, HCMC. Tickets to the event
are VND250,000 pre-registered,
VND350,000 at the door. For
more info or to register go to
m2.vietnambusiness.tv/enews/sep
05
06
FRIDAY
Aug. 30 to Sep. 2, at only

VND252,000++ per person.
THE GRAND HO TRAM

STRIP
thegrandhotramstrip.com
The Grand Ho Tram Strip
has activities of all types lined
up for the week of National
Day and the Mid-Autumn
Festival, from a festive
special menu at Ju Bao Xuan
starting at VND1,388,000++
to a seafood buffet at Ginger
from VND638,000++. The
games are on, too, including a
weekend slot tournament with
a VND74 million prize and
a VND2,079,000 net Preview
Play on the Greg Normandesigned gold course. Or relax
with a buy-one, get-one at The
Spa valid on all 60-minute
treatments over the weekend.
In any case, you wont be
bored.
HEART BEAT 9 @ CUBE BAR

Goethe-Institut is continuing
to bring good German culture
to Vietnam this month,
collaborating with Heart Beat
on this ninth installment to fly
in the don of minimal house,
Schlepp Geist. Another one of
the Berlin-based heavies were
expecting this month, hes a
legendary live performer, and
is backed by Vietnams Drew
Tudose and B.A.X., with Heart
Beats Erol on the visuals.
Theyre all conspiring to make
sure theres only one place you
want to be that night on the
dance floor.
Heart Beat 9 will take place at
The Cube Bar, 31B Ly Tu Trong,
Q1, HCMC. The show goes
from 8pm to late and entrance
is free. For more info, check
heartbeatsaigon.com
SATURDAY
ENCOUNTERS
OF THE STIMULATING
KIND
After wrapping up the pilot
run of the multi-disciplinary,
workshop-and-lecture-based
Encounter programme,
San Art is soliciting 15
more participants to take
part in a new edition.
The applications close
on Saturday Sep. 6. The
types of theorists and
professionals that will work
with participants represent
the Global South, and have
different perspectives to
share on similar challenges.
This year, people like
Filipino film director/writer/
actor Kidlat Tahimik will
speak as will South African
Ntone Edjabe writer,
journalist, DJ and founder
of Chimurenga, an awardwinning pan-African literary
magazine. And thats not
the only interesting part. If
last years programme was
any indication, the other
participants will also have
some different perspectives
to share, coming from
backgrounds as diverse
as social entrepreneurship
and architecture, computer
programming and fine arts.
Learn more or apply at sanart.org
11 THURSDAY
20 YEARS
LOOKING BACK, 2 YEARS
LOOKING FORWARD
With nearly 20 years of history
in Vietnam, AusCham has rare
perspective amongst expat
business types. This month on
Thursday Sep. 11 theyre sharing
it with real estate professionals,
with a full day of market
insights, expert talks, discussions
of law changes and networking
opportunities.
Speakers include Nguyen
SOME MAGRITTE WITH

YOUR WINE
Or maybe youd prefer some
Miro? It doesnt matter;
VinSpaces Canvas & Wine
September offerings feature both
surrealists the way they were
meant to be imitated with lots
and lots of wine.
Tran Nam, Deputy Minister

of Construction, Nguyen Huu
Thuy, Director of VAMC and
Tareq Muhmood, CEO of ANZ
Vietnam. Get a glimpse into the
future for only VND1.9 million
for AusCham and co-host
members, VND2.3 million for
non-members.
To register or learn more,
contact Ms. Phuong at events1@
auschamvn.org. The event will take
place at InterContinental Asiana
Saigon from 8am to 2pm
The Magritte edition of Canvas

& Wine is on Sep. 11 at 6.30pm,
at VinSpace Art Studio, 6 Le Van
Mien, Q2, HCMC. The Miro
edition is Sep. 25 at 6.30pm, at
VinSpace Garage, 95 Pasteur,
Q1, HCMC. Both editions cost
VND800,000 check vin-space.
com for more info
12 FRIDAY
LEARN TO COOK
JAPANESE AT BLANCHYS
Hoa Tucs Saigon Cooking Class
has joined up with Blanchy
Street to present one of the most
unique cooking classes Saigon
has to offer Japanese cuisine
as prepared by resident world
beating chefs Martin Brito and
Yogo Oba. Taking place on Friday
5th and 12th as well as Saturday

6th and 13th, for VND1.4 million
for a two-class session, youll
learn to prepare dashi, miso and
spicy seafood soups; vegetable
tempura; salmon maki in two
flavours; sea grapes and wakame
salad; and gyoza.
For more info on these courses,
check saigoncookingclass.com
to do list
13
15
SATURDAY
TOM SMITH AT
VINGALLERY
UK artist Tom Smiths
mixed-media oils dance on
their canvases, channeling
mythologies, forgotten rites,
landscapes that ripple with
power, individuals that ripple
with aura. His new VinGallery
show Nevertheless presents pieces
BERLIN TECHNO
EXCHANGE PROGRAMME
The kind souls in Berlin knew
we were starving for some
of their deep house, so they
decided to send a peace offering
Oskar Offermann. Known for
his association with legendary
nightclub Berghain/Panorama
Bar, as well as the two record
17
Ho Chi Minh City
from past series, Shoreditch

aesthetic filtered through the
strange experience of a seeker.
The opening reception for
Nevertheless takes place at
VinSpace Art Studio, 6 Le Van
Mien, Q2, HCMC, 6pm to 8pm on
Sep. 13. The show runs from Sep.
15 to Oct. 11. Check vin-space.com
for more info
labels he runs, Oskars decided
to give us the first taste free
or free enough, given the
calibre.
Join in the crazy Berlin-type
party at The Observatory cnr.
La Lai and Ton That Tung, Q1,
HCMC. The show is called for 10p
and entry is VND100,000. Support
by Hibiya Line
MONDAY
DANCE FOR THE REST

OF US
While last months Battle of
the Year (see page XXX) got us
shook with some of the best
dance moves this country
has ever seen, Dancenter had
its own dance spectacular
200 dancers of all ages and
experience levels, participating
in 24 performances. Now that
19
were sufficiently psyched for

dance, Dancenter is pulling out
its biggest promotion of the
year completely free classes
in jazz, contemporary, Zumba,
ballet, hip hop, high heels dance
and belly dance from Sep. 15 to
Sep. 20.
For details on Dancenters
September promotion, visit
dancentervn.com
FRIDAY
WEDNESDAY
EUROPEAN RUSTIC FAIR

Maybe youve browsed Annam
Gourmets myriad wines,
sampled a crumbly blue cheese
or two, or even dabbled in some
Belgian beers. With the nearly
month-long European Rustic Fair,
Annam is inviting you to take in
more of its traditional European
AUTUMN CLASSIC JOYRIDE

cuisine, with a traditional food
celebration, Autumn wine fair
and beer fest. Pick up that weird
curvy cheese knife and go to
town! The promotion run from
Sep. 17 to Oct. 12.
Annam Gourmet has locations in
Districts 1, 2 and 7, HCMC check
annam-gourmet.com for details
The crunch of fallen leaves is

the only thing missing from
this autumn freestyle on the
streets of District 2 and
theres more than enough
funky weather here to replace
it. Make sure you bring a good
attitude, your helmet and a
bike with lights to The Bike

Shop at 7pm on Friday Sep. 19,
and get ready to celebrate the
joy of cycling with a horde of
like-minded road racers!
The Bike Shop is at 250 Nguyen
Van Huong, Q1, HCMC. Contact
thebikeshopvn@gmail.com for info
on bike rentals
26
27
FRIDAY
SATURDAY
A VERY GRAND FINAL

CULOE DE SONG @ THE
OBSERVATORY
One of the most respected
names in South Africas
dynamic deep house scene is
coming to Saigon on Friday
Sep. 26, and hes bringing
his Red Bull Music Academy
AUSSIE RULES?
Not to be outdone by the noisy
neighbours, as in previous years
on Saturday Sep. 27 the Vietnam
Swans are putting on their very
own AFL Final party, in this
instance within the spacious
confines of Game On.
Including a free-flow of beer,
wine and soft drinks as well as
an all-day buffet with yes, you
and Innervisions approved

tracks with him. Hibiya Line
supports.
Culoe De Song is at The
Observatory cnr. La Lai and
Ton That Tung, Q1, HCMC.
Show is called for 10pm, entry
VND100,000
Its that time again, AFL fans

and whether that time is more
about the sport you will watch
or all the rest of it, Sep. 27 is a
date to keep in mind. Thats the
date of the AFL Grand Final, as
well as Saigon Saints AFL Clubs
annual Grand Final event at The
Sheraton. The guest of honour
this year is Swans legend Leo
Barry most famous for that
mark in the dying moments of the
2005 Grand Final. In addition, the
event will feature multiple megascreens, a buffet, all the beer and
wine you can drink from 10am to
4pm, raffles, auctions and an afterparty back at Phattys.
The AFL Grand Final celebration
hosted by the Saigon Saints AFL
Club is on at The Sheraton on
Sep. 27, 10am to 4pm. Tickets are
VND1.9 million each, or VND19
million for a table of 10 call
Chris Paget on 0903 735799 or
Darren Cotter on 0913 803517 for
more details
guessed it, vegetarian options,

for a mere VND1 million not
only will you get to watch the
final itself, but you can take part
in a raffle, get down to the aftermatch band and bring under-17s
in for free.
To buy your ticket/s simply go
to vietnamswans.com/online-shop.
Game On is at 115 Ho Tung Mau,
Q1
to do list
28
Ho Chi Minh City
SUNDAY
BBGV FUN RUN
Even when BBGV is having fun,

they know how to do smart
business. So its no surprise that
this annual charity run this
year on Sunday Sep. 28 has
raised nearly VND7 billion in its
previous 14 editions, with more
coming in at an exponential
rate. This years edition expects
9,000 runners, with prizes for
winners of the 4km race and
entertainment to follow.
The race starts at 7am on Tan
Trao, Phu My Hung, Q7, HCMC.
For more info on registering (starting
Sep. 8) and sponsoring, contact
Tran on officemanager@bbgv.org or
Claudia on claudia.lambie@bbgv.org
ALL MONTH
SAVE THE DATE
ALTERNATIVE ARTS
BAZAAR
In the Midst of Life 2 by Ngo Van Sac
CRAIG THOMAS GALLERY

AT THE SOFITEL
In September, Craig Thomas
Gallery will follow up its
successful Bui Tien Tuan
exhibition with another hotel
wall hanging of one of Vietnams
brightest stars, Hanoi-based
Nguyen The Hung. The
retrospective will focus on his

do paper paintings, printed with
acrylic and sometimes gouache
and watercolour, often of women
and nature in arresting positions.
For more info, check
cthomasgallery.com, or just stop
into Sofitel Saigon Plaza at 17 Le
Duan, Q1, HCMC
Following on from the success

of their first bazaar back in
August, the alternative arts
space at 3A Ton Duc Thang, Q1
is continuing their weekend
markets once every fortnight
throughout September.
Providing the local and expat
communities with a unique
shopping experience, the
bazaar's focus is on showcasing
locally sourced, hand-made
products with an emphasis
on quality and value for
money. The coming events in
September will
feature more than 40
booths with a wide variety of
products.
The 3A Station Bazaar, will be
held the first and third weekend
of each month at 3A Ton Duc
Thang, Q1 from 9am to 8pm in
September thats the 6th, 7th, 20th
and 21st. For more information
do a search on Facebook for 3A
Station Bazaar
BATTLE OF THE MONTH

Ok, so maybe its not the kind
of throwdown we hosted last
month, but Songs urban style
dance show on Saturday Oct.
4 has everything else urban,
featuring the dynamic styles
of John Huy Tran and the
Urban Dance Group, as well
as hip-hop dancers, circus
performers, beat-boxers,
graffiti artists, My Tam,
Phuong Vy and others. On
stage at Hoa Binh Theater,
it will be the latest attempt
to catch dance lightning in a
bottle, or at least in a stage
routine.
To get the full rundown on
Songs Oct. 4 showcase at Hoa
Binh Theater 3 Thang 2, Q10,
HCMC visit facebook.com/
songdanceshow
PRIME MOVER
Zoe Butt
Hailing from Sydney,

Australia, Zoe has
long been active on
the pan-Asian art
circuit, working with
private collectors
and researchers,
independent curators
and major museums
globally. On a meta
level, shes one of
the people trying to
figure what makes
this place tick
Executive Director and

Curator of San Art
san-art.org
Show Im really excited

about:
WAITING FOR GODOT
From Oct. 10 and also on the
12th and 13th, Dragonfly Theatre
Co is taking on what is widely
considered to be one of the best
plays of the 20th century, Samuel
Becketts Waiting for Godot.
Nothing much happens while
the two main characters wait
for the title character unless

youre interested in discussing
the meaning of life and things
like that. At times striking and
thought-provoking, at others
down right silly, this is a play
for all.
For more info, check
dragonflyvietnam.com
Conjuring Capital at San Art. This

exhibition showcases artists from
Argentina, India, US, Cambodia
and Vietnam examining the
cities of Nairobi, Mumbai,
Phnom Penh, Buenos Aires and
Thai Nguyen. This is the first
exhibition Ive curated that brings
contemporary art from abroad to
Ho Chi Minh City.
Best night out last month:

Hops Beer Garden. I took a
whole bunch of artists and
supporters there for drinks and
food and the outdoor setting was
perfect. The service and food was
also really good.
Best meal from last month:

I am a serious dim sum fan
Ocean Palace on Le Duan!
general?
Im in the art scene, based in Ho
Chi Minh City, and its growing
quite impressively. Many of the
contemporary artists that I have
worked with at San Art have
gone on to do marvelous projects
abroad with museums, art fairs
and independent organisations.
Many more creatives, not just
from the visual arts, but also from
architecture, design, fashion,
music, engineering, anthropology
to name but a few, have become
a part of our activities and its
exciting to see the community
diversifying like this.
The best secret in town is:

The Museum of Vietnamese
History (within the grounds of the
zoo). This collection has some of
the best displays in the country.
Where I go when I go out

Thing I posted on Facebook on my own:
I get on my bike and I ride to
that got the most likes:
An image of me wearing my
sci-fi Chanel sunglasses in Nimes,
France, with an equally stylish pal
in his leathers.
SEMINAL POP-PUNKERS
THE LEMONHEADS ARE
COMING!
For those of us born before the
1990s, The Lemonheads and
their messy, awesome, charming
sounds represent the path
alternative-rock could have
taken. Word contributor Evan
Hudson went so far as to say,
oh sh_____t this is awesome!
my favorite Evan in the world
besides me, this is going to rock,

oh sh_t. There you have it. And
theyll be in little ole Saigon on
Tuesday Dec. 2.
For more info on the upcoming
show, contact dkilroy7@yahoo.co.uk,
or keep an eye on facebook.com/
loudminorityvietnam. Presented by
Loud Minority, it all happens at Q4,
7 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4, HCMC.
Support by The Secret Asians and
James and the Van Der Beeks
Funniest Youtube clip of

the month:
Tony Abbott bloopers that man
is such an embarrassment.
Song I cant get out of my

head:
Happy by Pharrell Williams!
I wish this band would

come to town:
Die Antwoord from South Africa
How is the scene going in
the river. Sometimes I will go to

a local water caf on Binh Quoi,
other times Ill go and sit at ID
Caf in District 3 or M2C on Ly
Tu Trong. Or if Im feeling like
a quiet drink I think my new
fave would be First Bar... great
Japanese whisky.
If my older-yet-still-cool
Mom came to town, I
would take her to:
Caf RuNam on Mac Thi Buoi
she would totally love the interior
and outdoor garden settings. She
would also love Villa Song in
District 2 a stunning boutique
hotel on the river. Then to Cholon
to visit the myriad of temples.
just in
Ho Chi Minh City
VILLA VISTA DALAT

Dalats got a new five-star villa,
and it comes with a view. With
floor-length windows, fireside
evenings, friendly hosts and
meals using their garden-picked
vegetables as well as other
gourmet type offerings Villa
Vista Dalat is putting itself
squarely into the conversation of
the best places to stay in Dalat.
See the view at facebook.com/
villavistadalat
TRAVEL IN STYLE
Ginkgo Voyage part of the
Gingko family, which includes
the T-shirt and concept store
has just arrived on the streets
of District 1, and its looking for
some fellow travellers. Managed
by a team with more than 15
VIETNAM EAT & TRAVEL
SUITING UP FOR SOME

HEALTHY COMPETITION
Brooks Brothers, that most regal
and long-lived of American
brands, just set up their first
Vietnamese store on Aug. 30.
Now a country renowned for
its custom tailoring is set to deal
with an icon of business fashion,
worn by everyone from the

President of the US to Hollywood
stars to the countless wolves of
Wall Street. So who will come out
on top? Were not sure, but were
sure theyll look good doing it.
The first Brooks Brothers store is
at L2-24 & 25 in Union Square, 171
Dong Khoi, Q1, HCMC
After years of work, streetfood

enthusiast and writer Stefan
Leistner has finally put all his
research, photos and obsession
with the cuisine of this country
into one handy downloadable
app.
Focusing on six key tourist
destinations in Vietnam
Hanoi, Ho Chi Minh City, The
Mekong Delta, Nha Trang,
Hoi An and Phu Quoc the
app not only tracks the best
street food available in all these
years of combined experience,

theyll get you where you want
to go, in the highest quality
possible.
Stop in for a cup of tea and
a chat at Floor 1, 130 Nguyen
Cong Tru, Q1, HCMC, or check
ginkgovoyage.com
places, but gives you the type

of up-to-date travel advice that
not even the Lonely Planet is
able to provide (sic!). Including
off-the-beaten-track locations,
markets, coffee shops and
insider street stalls, this may
be the perfect accompaniment
to anyone looking to avoid the
standard tourist trap eating and
drinking you get in Vietnam.
To download the app go to
iTunes and search for Vietnam Eat
& Travel. The app is presently only
available for iPhone and iPad
just in
Mooncake Madness
We know weve been yelling ourselves hoarse about mooncakes so sue us, we like them. Stop by
the following spots until Sep. 8 if you do, too.
Mooncakes at The Sheraton Saigon
ANNAM GOURMET
annam-gourmet.com
Annam Gourmet is getting
into the mooncake game with a
wisdom that belies their years,
and some delicate and vibrant
looking mooncakes to boot!
Stop by Annam to discover
whats inside those clever
interlocking boxes it might
just be the nicest thing the
moons done for you all year.
HOTEL NIKKO SAIGON

hotelnikkosaigon.com.vn
Maybe youre a picky
mooncake eater. Well this
year Hotel Nikko Saigon is
giving you some choices for
your four-mooncake box in
varieties of black sesame with
walnut and egg yolk, pandan
with coconut and macadamia,
passion fruit and dried fruit,
green bean with almond
and chestnut, red bean and
Japanese green tea, and green
bean and orange peel. Or just
get them all in VND200,000
net per piece, VND800,000 net
per four.
NEW WORLD HOTEL

saigon.newworldhotels.com
Mooncakes are well known in
Asia for their lovely baked skin
and a surprise mixed-filling
centre. Look no further than the

New World Hotel, as Saigon
Bakery brings back traditional
mooncakes with a nice variety
of flavours like green bean,
white lotus, panda lotus, black
sesame and coconut. For a
unique taste, try the hotels
Pandan Lotus flavour, not
found anywhere else in the city.
Purchase these moon-cakes
for VND850,000 for a box of
four, or VND185,000 per cake
there are special discounts
on purchases of 10 to 20 boxes.
This is the one time of year
your sweet tooth and your
traditional values match up
perfectly.
RENAISSANCE
RIVERSIDE
renaissance-saigon.com
Kabin has long been known
for their mooncakes those
tasty turns on tradition like
Green Tea Custard Azuki, Pearl
of Harmony, Pure Lotus and
Imperial Ivory. Get on the gravy
train with the mooncakes of
kings, and the people who stay
at the hotel.
SHANG PALACE
shangpalace.com.vn
This time of year, Shang Palace
puts on their thinking cap to
drum up the best innovations

in the world of mooncakes.
And theyve done it again
with the new Macadamia Nut
& Lychee Paste cake, as well
as the old standbys Ham X.O.,
Coffee & Lotus Seed, healthy
Green Tea, tempting Durian
and the inspired Red Bean
& Black Sesame Paste. With
eight mooncakes to a box, you
wont be saying, Shangs for
nothing! (unless you love
puns, and are moderately
corny)
SHERATON
sheratonsaigon.com
White lotus, panda lotus,
green tea lotus, X.O., date,
cranberry, pomelo and mixed
nut varieties are enough
to get us howling at the
moon, making moon eyes,
and whatever other silly
expressions we can think of
all to say, they sound good!
They come with or without
eggs, and with a bold assertion
that the perfect balance
between sweet and sour
flavours in the new pomelo
and cranberry varieties will
be definitely loved by the
ladies. Get these dazzling
mooncakes for VND998,000++
per box of four.
overscene ho chi minh
snow leopard
Photos by Kyle Phanroy

Snow Leopard vodka is the only spirit
on this planet whose proceeds go to
animal preservation. Last month it had
its Vietnam launch party. Expect the
vodka to soon come to a bar near you
Battle of the Year
Photos by Owen Salisbury

Breakdance had its moment in Vietnam
twice last month. We got to go to the
first, the national finals in Saigon.
Le Pubs Birthday
Photos by Glen Riley
Pham Ngu Lao mainstay Le Pub

turned eight, showing that there is
some longevity to the bar scene here
especially if youve got someone as
charismatic as Trinh Tien Trung at the
helm.
If you have a noteworthy event which you think

would fit into our coverage, please email
news@wordvietnam.com and we'll take a look.
Apocalaughs Now
Photos by Glen Riley

Two comics from overseas Nick Page
and Pete Berner flew into our attractive
shores, putting on a night of belly-tickling
laughter at Cargo Bar. Also on stage was
the talent of Jeremy Ginsburg, Eoghan
Quinn and Sam Thomas
dont feed the monkey

Photos by Francis Xavier
Saigons expat bands came together
for a packed, drink-fuelled, 10-hour
extravaganza show at Cargo Bar,
demonstrating that making good music
definitely has a point. Even if youre not
making it back at home.
to do list
04
hanoi
05
THURSDAY
FRIDAY
WHISKEY WEEKENDS
A still from the German movie, Exit Marrakech
Lang Ha, Ba Dinh. Free tickets are

available from Goethe-Institut Hanoi,
56-58 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Ba Dinh,
Tel: (04) 3734 2251/52/53 ext. 9
THE HOT CHICKS
The Little Ghost
GERMAN FILM FESTIVAL

Following the success of last
years German Film Festival,
which attracted more than 50,000
visitors around the country, this
years offering will open in Hanoi
on Sep. 4 at the Goethe-Institut.
With more than 50 screenings
of German language films with
Vietnamese and English subtitles
or occasional dubbing, there
should be something there for
every film buff.
Kicking off proceedings, the
filmmakers of the opening movie,
The Visitors, will give a Q&A
session on Sep. 4. at the National
Cinema Centre, the venue for the
screenings in Hanoi.
The themes of family ties and

responsibility, home and identity,
and love and friendship will
be continued through the film
selection this year, which includes
Exit Marrakech, Parents, Taste of
Apples Seeds, Two Lives, Colours of
the Ocean, Broken Glass Park, The
Little Ghost and Ruby Red.
For further information on
all of the films and complete
schedules, please visit goethe.de/
german-filmfestival-vietnam.com.
Screenings will also take place in
Hai Phong, Danang, Hue, Ho Chi
Minh City and Thai Nguyen.
The Hanoi chapter of the German
Film Festival will be shown at
the National Cinema Centre, 87
Exit Marrakech
If you havent heard of the Hot

Chicks band, then you probably
havent been in Hanoi all that
long. Over the last few years, this
Filipino-fronted covers band have
made their name at the Friday
Night on The Terrace parties at
The Press Club. Every Thursday
this month they will continue
their regular slot at Old Quarter
watering hole, RockStore.
But if you just think this is stale,
hotel band-style covers, think
again. The performance and song
selection make the Hot Chicks
into a less run-of-the-mill live
music prospect. Theres a reason
theyve had such longevity, and
youll only figure it out when you
see them play. Put simply, theyre
good fun and great entertainers.
The musics good, too.
The Hot Chicks play every
Thursday from 9pm. Entrance is free.
RockStore is at 61 Ma May, Hoan
Kiem, Hanoi
La Fe Verte in the Hotel de

lOpera are running a single
malt happy hour perfect for
whisky enthusiasts from
6pm to 9pm throughout
September.
Costing VND600,000++,
the deal includes three 25ml
glasses of Singleton Whisky,
ranging from the 12-year-old to
the 18-year-old version. Each
glass of whisky will also be
paired with
a selection
of canaps.
The happy
hour runs
on Fridays,
Saturdays and
Sundays.
Hotel de
lOpera is at 29
Trang Tien, Hoan
Kiem, Hanoi
06
SATURDAY
NOVOLAB
New wave, post-rock and even
space rock? The mind boggles.
Set to be one of the more unusual
gigs this month, Novolab will be
taking to the stage at RockStore
on Saturday Sep. 6.
A new live-music project
coming from the Hoi An-Danang
area, Novolab are a two-piece
invention, mixing guitars and
bass with computer-generated
drums, a synth sequencer and
sound design. As it stands thats
all we know, except that this is
likely to be a unique show.
Novolab will play from 9pm.
Entrance is free. RockStore is at 61
Ma May, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi
A tuna filleting show in Japan
MAGURO NO KAITAI SHOW

The Fortuna Hotel are staging
a unique epicurean experience
perfect for foodies. Bringing
together Japanese cuisine,
culture and dance, with the aid
of Head Chef Kenji Tam they
will be demonstrating how to
fillet a 45kg yellow fin tuna.
A task only performed by
highly trained sushi chefs, the
whole tuna will be cut into
fillets on the spot using three
enormous knives and several
pairs of skilled hands.
With two shows the second

on Sep. 20 the tuna will then be
used to create an array of dishes.
Alongside the tuna will be a
selection of Japanese-style hawker
stores and homemade umeshu
(Japanese cordial-style liquor).
The all-you-can-eat-anddrink affair and show costs
VND499,000++ for adults and
VND249,000++ for children, but
bookings are essential. So call (04)
3831 3333 ext. 6461 or 6160 to
reserve your place. Fortuna Hotel is
at 6B Lang Ha, Ba Dinh, Hanoi
to do list
07
hanoi
17
SUNDAY
WEDNESDAY
An image from the Spanish documentary, Enxaneta
SEPTEMBER MOVIES
THBC Spanish Tapas Bar
(44 Lane 31 Xuan Dieu,
Tay Ho) is continuing their
season of movies celebrating
Spanish culture every Sunday
throughout September.
With all films shown in
Spanish and accompanied by
English subtitles, entrance is
free and even if you are not
sure about the films you can
still indulge in the finer arts of
Spanish food and drink.

The month kicks off on
Sunday, Sep. 7 with Pa Negre.
On Sunday, Sep. 14 the movie
Enxaneta will be screened
followed by En La Ciudad on
Sunday, Sep. 21 and climaxing
with Salvador (Pug Antich) on
Sunday, Sep 28.
All movies start at 7.30pm. So
head down for a relaxing and
intellectually minded end to the
week.
12 FRIDAY
QUEER DISCO
The regular DJ night

celebrating all things beginning
with the letter Q is returning
to CAMA ATK on Friday Sep.
12.
DJs La Pham Nikita and
Analogueliza will be on the
decks to spin their own take on
disco and the underground hits
13
SATURDAY
ROCKSTORE
TURNS ONE
Its difficult to believe, but its a

year already since live music and
DJ venue RockStore first landed on
the steps of the Old Quarter. And
in true RockStore fashion they will
be celebrating their birthday on
Saturday Sep. 13 with quite a bang.
Although the line-up has yet
to be released, expect a night of
live music, mad professor-like
turntablism, ample amounts of
booze and of course, a whole lotta
fun.
Entrance is free. RockStore is at 61
Ma May, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi
and pop classics of the last four

decades. This is your chance to
get glam, be free and dance the
night away without any cares
in the world.
Doors are at 8pm and the first
cocktail, wine or beer you drink is
half price. Entry is free. CAMA
ATK is located on 73A Mai Hac
De, Hai Ba Trung, Hanoi
BLUE HAWAII LIVE

The punk-pop musical duo
of Raphaelle Standell-Preston
and Alex Agor Cowan are
making a not-to-be-missed trip
Canadian band Blue Hawaii
Bertolt Brecht, author of The Caucasian Chalk Circle
THE CAUCASIAN CHALK

CIRCLE
The Goethe-Institut, in
cooperation with the Youth
Theatre, will be putting on
a modern, semi-musical
production of Bertolt Brechts
classic play, The Caucasian Chalk
Circle, from Sep. 17 to Sep. 19 at
The Youth Theatre.
Directed by Dominik
Guenther, The Caucasian Chalk
Circle is set during wartime. The
governors house comes under
attack and, fearing for their lives,
the governors wife passes her
beloved son into the arms of a
maid before fleeing for safety
with as many of her valuables
as possible. The maid, Grusche,
from their native Montreal to

Hanoi as part of an expansive
Asian tour.
Playing under the name Blue
Hawaii and hitting CAMA
escapes and raises the child as

her own. The years go by and
calmer waters appear. Hearing
of the whereabouts of her former
maid, the governors wife finds
her and the son, who is the heir
to a large fortune. Having grown
attached to the child the maid
refuses to give him up. Now the
court must decide. But which
way will the decision go?
The play will take place from
Wednesday, Sep. 17 to Friday Sep.
19, 8pm at The Youth Theatre, 11
Ngo Thi Nham, Hai Ba Trung,
Hanoi. Tickets are free of charge and
are available from both The Youth
Theatre and the Goethe-Institut,
56-58 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Ba Dinh,
Hanoi from Sep. 10
ATK on Saturday Sep. 13,

Raphaelles dense harmonies
combined with Alexs synths,
guitars and drum machines
bring a unique flavour of
dance not often seen in Asia.
Mixing punk with pop the
duo creates a magical blend
of music that reflects their
collaborative, communitydriven environment in Canada.
Doors are at 8pm. Tickets
are VND100,000 in advance
or VND150,000 on the door.
CAMA ATK is located on 73A
Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung,
Hanoi. For more information visit
bluehawaii.bandcamp.com
18
THURSDAY
Fancy some paella anyone?
A SPANISH FEAST
The Hanoi Cooking Centre
(HCC) are putting on a Spanishinspired dinner. Starting at
7pm, the Iberian-style feast will
cost US$24 (VND504,000) per
19
person while drinks will be sold

separately at bar prices.
For further information email
tracey@hanoicookingcentre.com or
go to hanoicookingcentre.com. HCC
is at 44 Chau Long, Ba Dinh, Hanoi
SHOWCASING THE
ORDINARY
FRIDAY
As part of the Y-Viet

Programme 2014, Italian
artist Barbara Anchisi will be
exhibiting her work, Attimi
Images of the Ordinary in
Vietnam, at Casa Italia from
Sep. 18 to Oct. 2.
Born in Turin, Anchisi has
worked with a number of art
institutes across the world
from the US to China, where
she was based at Dulwich
College, Beijing from 2007
to 2012. Her work has been
displayed in solo exhibitions
AMCHAM HANOI
NETWORKING EVENT IN
DANANG
Cult Australian outfit, The Dune Rats
DUNE RATS
Self-styled Australian poppunk-surf rock band, The
Dune Rats, will play CAMA
ATK on Friday Sep. 19.
Supported by Hanoi punk
rock outfit, The Offensive,
the Brisbane-based outfits
ear splitting sounds and
on-stage antics have given
them a cult following in their
native Australia. Despite the
Artist Barbara Anchisi at work
space CAMA ATK is tiny

expect mosh pit action
and plenty of headbanging.
This is one of those shows
for the all the alternative
metalheads and neo-punk
fans out there.
CAMA ATK is located 73A
Mai Ha De, Hai Ba Trung,
Hanoi. For more information
go to dunerats.bandcamp.com.
Entrance fee TBA
AmCham Hanois annual

networking event will take
place from Friday Sep. 19 to
Sunday, Sep. 21 at the Hyatt
Regency Resort in Danang.
Providing a unique
opportunity for business
leaders and entrepreneurs
to share their own visions
of what the future holds for
business in Vietnam, the
AmCham leadership will be on
hand for the weekend as will
both in her native Italy and

internationally.
In her latest exhibition,
Anchisi will showcase a very
personal vision of everyday
Vietnam. Using a range of
colours and tones along with
handmade do paper inlaid on
canvas, her work provides an
intriguing visual rendering of
contemporary Vietnam.
The exhibition runs from Sep.
18 to Oct. 2 at Casa Italia, 18,
Le Phung Hieu, Hoan Kiem,
Hanoi. For information please
email Ms. Hoa on yviet.hanoi@
esteri.it.
representatives from the US
Embassy in Hanoi and the US
Consulate in Ho Chi Minh City.
Its not all work and serious
chat, however, as the weekend
will feature dinner parties, golf,
swimming and more.
The registration fee is
VND4,800,000 for AmCham
members; VND6,000,000 for
non-members and VND3,800,000
for spouses or partners. For
more information on the event,
to register and total attendance
costs, go to amchamhanoi.com/
event/networking-weekend/
to do list
20
OF ART
hanoi
SATURDAY
works of art celebrating the
Hmong and Red Dzao people
and their culture. Using images
of objects, animals, people and
landscapes that are familiar to
the children in their everyday
lives, she has created a unique
body or work.
During the festival, many of
Sapas other artists will open
their private studios to visitors.
There will also be an exhibition
of paintings at the Sapa Museum
for the whole month. This is a
great opportunity to meet the
artists, ask them about their work
and make a special purchase.
For more information on the
festival, please go to sapa-tourism.
com
SAPA FESTIVAL
To celebrate the artwork of artists

and children in Sapa, the Sapa
Tourist Centre and various
locations in the town will be
holding a Festival of Art, from
Sep. 20 to Oct. 18.
Helping to support the Art for
Community initiative, the notfor-profit showcase aims to raise
funds to help both local artists
and local communities living in
the area.
Included in the showcase will
be paintings by UK-born artist
Bridget March, who with help
from the children of Ma Cha and
Ta Phin Villages, has produced
JUNIOR MASTERCHEF?
The Hanoi Cooking Centre
(HCC) are continuing their
cooking classes made just for
kids. For US$15 (VND315,000),
on Saturday, Sep. 20 your little
ones can role up their sleeves,
get creative and learn to cook a
range of simple dishes in a safe
and supervised environment.

Soon it will be them who will
be cooking the evening meal.
What more can you ask for?
For further information email
tracey@hanoicookingcentre.com
or go to hanoicookingcentre.com.
HCC is at 44 Chau Long, Ba
Dinh, Hanoi
Masterchef? Not exactly. But HCC are offering a chance for your kids to learn to cook
26
FRIDAY
POSITIVE MASS
The monthly bike ride inspired
by the Critical Mass phenomenon
that has reached 300 cities
worldwide continues this month
on Friday, Aug. 26 at 8pm.
Titled Positive Mass or Dap
Cho Suong, the ride will pedal
off in Hanoi at St. Josephs
Cathedral on the junction of
Nha Tho and Nha Chung. From
there the cyclists will traverse

the streets of the capital en
masse, reclaiming what many
believe is rightfully theirs a
city devoid of motorbikes, cars
and trucks. Now wouldnt that
be something!
Everyone is welcome to join free
of charge. Simply turn up at the
allotted time and date. For further
information go to thbc.vn
ALL MONTH
hands on an iPad.
One of the last makers of
these fascinating oddities a
lady called Ms. Mai has
rekindled her love affair with
the art form after a four-year
hiatus and has produced a
limited edition of ships. These
are now being exhibited at both
Bookworm and Bookworm Too.
The ships come in four sizes
and can be bought for various
amounts depending on the
quality of the work.
Ms. Mais tin ships can be
viewed at Bookworm (44 Chau
Long, Ba Dinh) and Bookworm
Too (Lane 1/28, Nghi Tam Village,
Tay Ho). For more information
visit bookwormhanoi.com
TIN SHIPS REANCHOR AT BOOKWORM

Bookworm and Bookworm Too
will be running an exhibition of
tin ships throughout the whole
of September.
Traditionally made for the
Mid-Autumn Festival (Tet
Trung Thu), tin ships and toys
made out of scrap tin were
once sold on the streets close
to the To Lich River in Hanoi
and then floated down the
waterways of the local villages.
Unfortunately, except for a
few die-hard tin ship makers,
the tradition has largely
disappeared. Now youre more
likely to see a kid with their
PIKNIC ELECTRONIK
After three years of becoming
Hanois favourite electronic
music purveyor and weekly
outdoor event, Piknic Electronik
continues every Sunday
throughout September at
The tin warships built by Ms. Mai
Softwater in An Duong.
Bringing its tradition of good
music and even better vibes to
the capital, the Piknickers enjoy
it all where its meant to be on
a lawn next to a river and in the
late afternoon and early evening
of a cool Hanoi autumn. Unlike

its sister events in Montreal and
Barcelona, Piknic Electronik
Hanoi has two additions Piknic
Acoustik Live sessions on the
first Sunday of each month, and a
monthly mini-market.
Piknic Electronik is at SoftWater

Gardens, 49 Road 5, An Duong, Tay
Ho and kicks off at 5pm every Sunday
running until (fairly) late. For more
information, keep an eye on the
event page at facebook.com/groups/
piknicelectronik/events
otherwise known as Nguyen

Tien Manh, is a professor of
jazz at the Vietnam National

Academy of Music on Hao
Nam. Having studied abroad
most notably in Sweden he is
intent on bringing the art form
of jazz to young Vietnamese
musicians and, of course, the
public.
The jazz starts nightly
at 8.30pm (Wednesday and
Thursday) and 9pm (Friday and
Saturday). The musicians play
for two hours. Dons Tay Ho is
at 16 Quang An, Tay Ho, Hanoi.
Entrance is free
JAZZ AT DONS
If youve ever heard the
sounds of jazz and modern
classics played with a classy
edge floating over the waters
of West Lake, then the
likelihood is that they come
from the Oyster Bar on the top
floor of Dons Tay Ho.
Played nightly from
Wednesday to Saturday, Mikes
Tip Box Band is a collection of
both professional and student
jazz musicians who are using
the small, outdoor stage to blast
Jazzin' it up on Don's Oyster Bar
away some expertly crafted and

very sublime jazz. Mike himself,
SAVE THE DATE
A FAIR FOR STARTUPS

HATCH! FAIR 2014 returns
for its second outing with the
Vietnam startup community on
Saturday, Oct. 11 and Sunday,
Oct. 12 in Hanoi.
Aiming to support
entrepreneurs either on the
threshold of starting a new
business or with ideas that
they have yet to bring into
a business arena, the fairs
theme is connecting resources.
Through three main activities
the event will bring together
potential investors, mentors,
start-up companies with
innovative products and the

media. In addition, an attempt
will be made to evaluate
business models and to
create an environment where
people attending the fair can
learn from the success and
experience of others.
More than 1,000 people
attended the fair last year and the
organisers are expecting increased
attendance for 2014. To get
involved or for more information
go to fair.hatch.vn or contact Vu
Anh Ngoc on ngoc@hatch.vn. The
venue will be confirmed closer to
the date
just in
hanoi
KAFE VILLAGE
One year after opening
KAfe, the urban caf and
restaurant on Dien Bien Phu,
the successful caf concept is
expanding to a second location
on Ha Hoi close to Tran Hung
Dao.
Opened in late August,
KAfe Village is carrying
the same food philosophy,
serving up unfussy, hearty
comfort food together with
creative and simple drinks and
desserts, all in a fresh urban
setting. Located in a converted
two-storey French villa, and
inspired by tastes from across

the globe, the kitchen here
is headed up by Sydneyborn chef, Joel Manton. The
well-known face behind the

concept, Dao Chi Anh, will be
leading from the front.
They will be serving up a
range of dishes from the croque

monsieur and eggs benedict
through to Mexican achiote
half BBQ chicken, burgers,
handmade potato gnocchi and
pastas. Also on the menu is a
range of healthy salads, a new
selection of creative, Asian-style
street snacks together with
rustic pizzas, fair-trade coffee,
detox juices and organic tea.
The KAfe Village is open from
7.30am to 11pm daily and can be
found at 4 Ha Hoi, Hoan Kiem,
Hanoi. For more information click
on thekafe.vn or go to facebook.
com/thekafevn
A LA FOLIE MY DINH
KUB CAF ON THE LAKE

KUB Cafe, the scooterobsessed bar down one of
the alleyways off Au Co, has
opened a second location on
West Lake.
With all the mechanical
trimmings of the Original
KUB Caf, the new bia-hoicum-restaurant is offering
the Tay Ho community
a lake view high on its
terraced balconies. Located
at 79 Quang An, Tay Ho,
Lake KUB boasts a collection
of classic motorbikes, handdrawn murals, comfy leather
chairs and an eight-burner
BBQ grill serving premium
rib-eye steak to complement
the famous KUB hotdogs. All
giving motorcycle riders a
choice stop on a spin around
the lake.
Lake KUB is open from 4pm
to 9pm daily with a cafe race
nightly to the original KUB
Cafe near the river
My Dinh is many things to many

people the new frontier, the
end of the empire, the rebirth of
Hanoi, a blot on the skyline. Take
your pick. And that is exactly
what the bakery A la Folie did
recently when they opened not in
central Hanoi, but in My Dinh 1.
French-run, the bakery is trying
to do something a little different
to other bakeries in Hanoi. Selling
anything from croissants, pain au
chocolat and chaussons au pommes
through to French-style baguettes,
the owners both passionate
for pastry are only using real
butter and real fruit. Another
departure are the fillings in their
macaroons. Rather than using
butter cream they are filling the
cakes with the different-flavoured
ganache such as Earl Grey and
raspberry puree. The clair also
come in a variety of flavours
including lemon cream, caramel
cream, passion cream and coffee
cream.
As well as pastries, A la Folie
is producing savoury products
such as quiche, tartines and other
French specialities.
A la Folie is at Nha 12A LO B7
My Dinh 1, Tu Liem, Hanoi, just
off Le Duc Tho and close to Crowne
Plaza. For more information go to
facebook.com/alafoliemydinh1
BORNGA
Also new to the just-opened
Lotte Centre is BORNGA, a
well-known Korean chain
restaurant started by celebrity
chef, Jong Won Paik.
Now with 30 outlets around
the world, Chef Paik created
the menu after researching
and developing a variety of
dishes that are true reflections
of the taste and style of
Korea. Among the highly
recommended list is the dish
Woo-Samgyup, which is Chief

Paiks patented recipe of thinlysliced U.S. beef plate seasoned
with a secret marinade.
BORNGA is on the 6th Floor,
Lotte Department Store, 54 Lieu
Giai, Ba Dinh, Hanoi or online at
bornga.co.kr
ANNAM EXPANDS
Having developed its
delicatessen, supermarket and
caf concept in Saigon, Annam
Gourmet is now bringing the
successful model to its groundfloor store in the Syrena Center
in West Lake.
Five times bigger than its
previous installment, the new
Annam will not only sell a
larger range of products, but
will also include a tea and
coffee counter, a bakery and
pastry section, a caf, and a
large selection of cold cuts and
cheeses, all available fresh from

the deli.
To add to the mix, Annam will
also be selling fresh fruit and
vegetables, cosmetics and beauty
treatments as well as an in-store
pharmacy-style selection of drugs
and baby products. And of course
all the luxury fine foods from the
likes of Fauchon and Hediard
will also be on sale as well as
a rotisserie and an extensive
selection of frozen products.
Annam Gourmet Market is on the
ground floor of the Syrena Center, 51
Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Hanoi
SCHOOL FOOD
The opening of the Lotte Centre
on Lieu Giai has brought with it
a number of new restaurants to
the Hanoi dining scene.
Of these one of the best known
is School Food, a casual dining
restaurant from South Korea that
has more than 80 outlets around
the world in destinations as farflung as Hong Kong, Indonesia,
Thailand, Japan and the US.
Serving up dishes like carbonara
tteokbokki, bibimbap, squid ink
mari and more, School Food
opened up on the sixth floor
of the mall at the beginning of

September.
The Lotte Center is at 54
Lieu Giai, Ba Dinh. For more
information on School Food go to
schoolfood.co.kr
overscene hanoi
TropFest Hanoi
Photos by Julie Vola

The worlds largest film festival flew in
its short movies to the rather petite but
attractive climes of the Backyard Bia
Hoi. Wooing the audience, it looks like
TropFest will be back to show us more
Who is William
Onyeabor?
Photos by David Harris

If you attended this documentary-cumDJ event at CAMA ATK, youll most
likely know. For those who didnt?
Hes the mysterious, cult-like king of
Nigerian funk
Dont Feed the Monkey

Photos by Teresa Wealleans
Jennifer Whennan and Jean
Canstantinesco brought their silky,
acoustic set to THBC Spanish Tapas Bar
last month, in a show that reinforces the
growth of this Iberian caf-bar-restaurant
into an important West Lake hub for
entertainment, bicycles and more.
If you have a noteworthy event which you think

would fit into our coverage, please email
news@wordvietnam.com and we'll take a look
Piknic Electronik
Photos by David Harris

The Montreal-born Sunday cool vibes
and even cooler drinks event continues
to bring Hanoians to the amazingly
cool, riverside lawns of Softwater.
Barefoot on the grass? Thats unheard of
in Vietnam.
Tee Hee in Tay Ho

Alternative stand-up comedy returned to
The House of Son Tinh with a show put
on by Hanois very own growing crop
of comics. The headliner was from Hong
Kong, but the Vietnamese magician was
better
the talk
This is
the Month That Was
It may have been the end of the summer last month, but Vietnam certainly
didnt pause for breath. Heres what happened over the 31 days of August
ugust was Hungry Ghost Month,

when the gates of the spirit world
were opened unleashing millions
of hungry phantoms on our planet.
With the spirits unable to eat earthly foods,
large numbers of Buddhists satiated the
phantoms insatiable appetites by burning
incense and opening the doors of their houses
to let out the aroma of food. Unfortunately, as
Harry Potter would be likely to tell you, there
are always some ghosts trapped in between
realms. When left unappeased they start to
cause mischief, meaning that August was
also a month to take precautions. Wearing
protective scarves or amulets was one, as
was avoiding travelling or going out late
at night during Hungry Ghost Month
the likelihood of accidents, mishaps and
robberies increases exponentially. Well have
to wait to see the data on that one.
Last month was also when the ghosts of
Tet Eve Past came back to haunt us. In this
instance it was in the form of the Saigon
Tax Centre.
When the news broke, nostalgic Saigonites
were brought to tears. How can the city
destroy yet another establishment built by the
French? Surely this is part of Ho Chi Minh
Citys heritage? What will we do without
all those wooden chess sets, miniature ships
and mother-of-pearl chopstick collections
on the third floor that we never bought but
always said we would buy as souvenirs
but never actually did? And what about
those camera shops on the ground floor, the
supermarket, all that overpriced jewellery,
the huge motorbike parking lot and them
lovely wallets embossed with Armani and

Polo logos?
Not a lot and who cares, said the Hanoi
Massive. Instead they reacted with restrained
glee to the news that their favourite watering
hole, Tay Tap, is due to return. Forget the
impending Sep. 2 opening of Lotte Centre on
Lieu Giai, its the drinking establishments that
matter in the capital. And although Tay Tap is
not actually open yet, construction has started
on a new space next to Da Paolos on West
Lake. Meaning that soon you will be able to
go in, swill your beer, and finish it off with a
coconut or two on the deckchairs overlooking
West Lake. You may even fall in. Now you
could never hope to do that at Lotte Centre!
Fortunately, with Piknic Electronik
going strong every Sunday out at Softwater,
Hanoians didnt need to wait to get their
cheap beer, party vibes and skinny dips.
Many even took an early river-water
plunge and hit the outdoor Excite parties
out at Eden Bar while Summer Vibrations
brought revelers to a 24-hour dose of
revelry somewhere near the pottery village
in Bat Trang.
Football, WiFi and Railway Lines

The sad news, however, came in the football.
While Manchester Utd continued to flounder,
leaking supporter after disloyal Vietnamese
supporter to their noisy neighbours on the
other side of the city, so Vietnams under-19s
lost 3-4 to Myanmar in the final of the Sultan
of Brunei Cup.
So happy were the fans that the countrys
budding footballers got as far in the
competition as they did recent senior team

performances have been dire that the
players received a heros welcome when they
returned to Vietnam.
This was only outdone by two sterling
pieces of news. The first came from Danang
with the launch of free WiFi throughout the
whole city. Using a system comprised of 330
base transceiver stations, WiFi access points
that have been installed on lighting poles
and key locations including universities,
tourist sites, apartments and 29 state
departments and agencies. Lets hope the
proven connection between brain tumours,
mobile phone usage and Wi-Fi continues to
go unproven. We certainly wouldnt want the
truth to leak out on this one.
The ramifications could be even worse if
all the parents of Grade 1 to Grade 3 students
in Ho Chi Minh City were to get their mitts
on all that proven but unproven research.
It could mean that a new city-wide plan
to make school rooms into Smart Classes
could well come off the rails. Not that it will,
especially with the present construction of the
Ho Chi Minh City Metro System in the lead
for that particular accolade.
Yet the authorities are sponsoring 5,334
tablets for disadvantaged students with
another 321,000 having to buy tablets for
between VND3 million and VND5 million
a go. The hope is that new star-spangledbanner technology will be brought to 451 of
the citys schools.
Hungry ghosts or not, August was a month
with substance, satiating more than just the
needs of all those ravenous spirits out there.
the talk
70%
95%
The percentage of
people who share
their copy with up to
three other people
The percentage of
survey respondents
who live in Vietnam
1/4
8 in 10
The number of readers who have read more

than six issues of Word Vietnam
The percentage of
Word readers who are
Vietnamese. The combined
percentage of readers who
are British, American and
Australian is just over one
half
24
to
40
The mean age group

of readers of Word
Vietnam. 26% of
readers are over 40
40+
The Word Readership Survey

A big thank you to everyone who
took part in this years readership
survey, both in print and online.
Our market research partner,
Cimigo, put your names in a
hat and drew out the following
prizewinners.
HANOI
Javier Bish
1 x VND1 million lunch / dinner
voucher at Namaste
Samantha Lane
1 x two-night stay for two
including breakfast and set

dinner at Pullman Hanoi
HO CHI MINH CITY
Vickie Warburton
Tran Ngoc
Kevin Hale
1 x 60-minute treatment for two
at Xuan Spa, Park Hyatt
1 x FV Save & Safe Membership

Card
1 x one-night weekend stay in a

deluxe room for two including
breakfast and lunch buffet at
Sheraton Hanoi
Ricardo Glenn
1 x poolside BBQ weekend buffet

voucher for two at Daewoo Hotel
1 x two-night weekend stay in a

club luxury room for
two including breakfast and
club benefits at Sofitel Plaza
Saigon
Daphnee Dauchi
Brian Caleda
1 x VND1 million lunch / dinner

voucher at Pots n Pans
6 x bottles of wine from The

Warehouse
Nina Eejima
Marion Vigot
1 x 60-minute body treatment
voucher from Kara Spa,
Caravelle Saigon
Frances Amos
1 x voucher for 10 training
sessions at Cyril and You
To claim your prize, please email Vu
Ha Kim Vy on vy@wordvietnam.
com. A big thank you to all our
sponsors!
Insider
SAVAGE INDEPENDENCE // TWO LIVES SAVED // UPWARDLY MOBILE // 101 THINGS TO LOVE ABOUT
VIETNAM // HEAVEN ON EARTH // THE B-BOY WORLD CUP // VIDEO BLOGGING IN VIETNAM // A WISE
DRAFT // MYSTERY DINER HANOI // STREET SNACKER HANOI // FASHION // TEACHING ENGLISH IN
SUDAN // GIVE VIENTIANE A CHANCE // AIRPORT STORIES
PHOTO BY NICK ROSS
Ma Pi Leng Pass in the Dong Van Highlands, Ha Giang
insider
MANY FACES
HANOI
Savage Independence
As the founders and driving forces behind Hanoi art space Manzi, Tram Vu and
Bill Nguyen are helping to define Vietnamese art for a new generation.
Words by Katie Jacobs. Photo by Nick Ross
he piercing blue eyes ringed

in black shadows stare at me
intensely from across the room. Set
into a face that looks half-human,
half-bird, the painting confidently surveys
its territory like a hawk from a nest. That
territory is Manzi, a place that co-founders
Tram Vu and Bill Nguyen describe as part
art space, part performance venue, and
part caf and bar.
Since opening, Manzis calm interior has
become a familiar and welcome respite
from the citys hectic streets. Meeting
there regularly with my writers club,
the long communal tables topped with
cheerful flowers serve as the perfect place
to discuss our writing the ever-changing
artwork never failing to inspire. Paintings
hang from every surface, the human-bird
portrait just one of the many interesting
pieces adorning the walls. A small shop on
the second floor sells work by Vietnamese
artists.
We are trying to test the local market,
says Tram. Most wealthy Vietnamese are
only interested in buying cars and brands,
they dont think about investing in art. We
are slowly trying to change that.
Art for the People

In founding Manzi, Tram and Bill managed
to create a space that effortlessly blurs the
boundaries between caf and gallery. It was
originally Trams idea to create an art space
that also functions as a caf and bar, says
Bill. This was a bit of an experiment and we
developed this really ambitious plan to test a
new model for exhibiting art in Hanoi.
Working as the art manager at the British
Council for a decade, Tram left to become
a freelance art consultant for galleries and
studios around the country. It was during
this period that she approached Bill with the
idea for Manzi.
Manzi was established with the
aim to develop an audience for art, to
promote contemporary art and to support
Vietnamese artists, says Tram. Artists
doing creative work often dont know how
to run a studio or gallery, so we created
Manzi as a place for them.
There is another connection Manzis

blurred lines are attempting to reach an
audience that normally wouldnt enter a
gallery. Tram says, We wanted it to be an
easy place for everyone to enjoy art in a
relaxed space.
The Future
As the conversation continues, the
comfortable and respectful relationship
between Bill and Tram becomes increasingly
apparent. Although from different
generations Tram was born in 1973 and
Bill in 1988 the duo work seamlessly
together, ideas and topics bouncing between
them as they finish the others sentences and
talk over each other. I ask if they are artists
themselves.
I was trained in fine arts, Bill says
he graduated from Nottingham Trent
University in 2009. But I havent really
made much recently.
Yes, you have, cuts in Tram. You have
done many things, especially in performance
art.
Yeah, but they were really just
experiments, he says.
Tram brushes over his modesty. I think
Bill will be a very important curator in the
future of Vietnam, she says. He has a good
critical mind and understands the scene. But
more importantly, he can understand the
artist. I think he could be one of the best.
I dont know, I have a long way to
go, Bill says, shrugging. I feel like I
dont belong anywhere but I feel like
this rootlessness is really important in my
work, so I can sneak in between places of
knowledge and link different worlds.
Theyve both seen the local art scene
slowing down. 2006 was a big time for
contemporary art in Vietnam, but since then
it has been very slow, says Tram. They
havent seen much from the recent university
graduates and they lament the old fashioned
education many young artists are receiving.
There is no depth to their work, they are
not taught to think critically, says Bill.
But a new generation of innovative new
artists could be just around the corner.
There is the potential for Bills generation
to be really good, says Tram. Vietnam

is changing rapidly, and the current crop
of young artists have more access to the
world than ever before. They both feel that
the influence and information pouring in
from around the globe is great for artistic
creativity, as long as young artists are able to
filter the information and create something
meaningful.
Into Thin Air

It is clear that Tram and Bill genuinely
love their work at Manzi and are eager to
welcome all forms of art. Were open for
anything really, as long as its good quality,
says Bill. Just as he says this, a package of
clothes is delivered for a conceptual fashion
show they will host later in the month the
clothes portray images of altar paintings
depicting the 18 levels of Buddhist hell.
As if fashion shows, photography
exhibitions and music nights arent enough,
Tram and Bill are also planning a public art
series entitled Into Thin Air a project that
will contract artists to create one-off pieces
for public spaces around the city. They hope
this will challenge both the artist and the
public.
There is no public art in Hanoi, says
Tram, and we want to give artists that
freedom and audiences that access. Art
and public space belongs to both everyone
and no-one, and Into Thin Air aims to tie this
concept into the limitless imagination that
encapsulates art-making. However, this is
all contingent on funding, says Bill. We are
looking everywhere for grants we can apply
for.
Neither Tram nor Bill can tell me what the
future holds for the Hanoi art world or for
Manzi, but one thing is for sure they will
continue promoting Vietnamese art and they
will continue pushing boundaries.
Manzi in Vietnamese means savage; it
also means independent and different,
explains Tram. By naming our art space
Manzi, we show that we are an integral
part of the local art scene, but also act as an
independent entity.
Manzi Art Space is at 14 Phan Huy Ich, Ba
Dinh, Hanoi
insider
INSIDER
HCMC
Two Lives Saved

Although The Heart Institute has helped over 4,000 children
in their 22 years of existence, every heart they put right
matters. Words by Margaret Smith. Photos by Francis Xavier
lthough a bit small for his age,

two-year-old Thach Xuan Thai
is like any growing boy: curious,
squirmy and full of energy. Hes
so friendly that hell give a high-five to
anyone he meets, and he loves running
laps up and down his familys alley. If you
had met Thai a year ago, however, a much
different boy would have greeted you.
Thai was born with three different heart
diseases: an intra-ventricular complication
otherwise known as a hole between his
two heart ventricles; a mitral valve disease
in his left atrium; and arterial hypertension
that was caused by the two other diseases.
He had almost no muscle for the first year
of his life, and was so easily tired that he
spent most of the day lying down.
Unfortunately, Thais case isnt so rare in
Vietnam. According to the Centre Medical
International (CMI) in Ho Chi Minh City,
an outpatient clinic in District 1, one out
of every 100 Vietnamese children is born
with a congenital heart disease, and often
it goes untreated for years.
Thats where the Heart Institute
comes in. Funded by the CMI, the Heart
Institute provides cardiac care to children
from underprivileged families all over
Vietnam. Founded by the Alain Carpentier

Foundation, in conjunction with the
Vietnamese government, theyve helped
4,000 children in the past 22 years.
Map of the Heart

How has the Heart Institute managed to
have such an impact? According to Maelle
Jarlier, the CMIs chief financial officer,
patients with families that can afford to
pay, do. The Heart Institute will often
help them find this money, and it can
come from a variety of different resources,
including health insurance which all
Vietnamese children receive until the age
of six extended family and even their
local community.
For those families that cant pay or can
only cover a portion of the costs, the Heart
Institute, with approval from the CMI,
will cover the rest. Families that apply for
funding need to get certification from the
Vietnamese government to prove their lack
of financial resources. We will always
make sure that [the payment is] complete
to be sure they are operated on, Jarlier
says.
In Thais case, his family could only pay
for one-third of his surgery costs. Both
his grandmother and his aunt sell lottery
tickets for a living, while his mother stays
at home a room that their family rents
in District 4 to take care of Thai and his
sister. The father isnt in the picture. After
learning how weak Thai was, he asked for
a divorce and left, his mother says.
Thai had surgery in August 2013. He
was in the hospital for two weeks and had
two different operations: one to close the
hole in his heart and another to repair his
mitral valve. The surgery costs added up
to nearly VND70 million.
According to Dr. Nam Phuong, CMIs
leading cardiologist, Thai would have
died without surgery due to severe
hypertension. His lung would have
been severely damaged, causing a lung
embolism or a heart failure.
Today there is only one sign that he has
had major surgery: a small, thin scar that
starts just under his collarbone and stops
midway down his chest. You can barely see
it under his shirt as he

bounces up and down.
An Undeniable
Impact
One-year-old Nguyen
Bao Longs case isnt
as extreme as Thais.
Long, who also has
Downs syndrome,
was born with a hole
in his heart between
the lower chambers,
otherwise known as
a ventricular septal
defect. His condition
is very treatable, and
it most likely wont
require any open-heart
surgery. If everything
goes according to plan,
hell only have to stay
at the hospital for two
days.
Yet the surgery fees
are still hefty. Longs
operation will cost
nearly VND74 million,
a price that his parents
cant afford. According
to the Heart Institutes
file, Longs mother
sells vegetables at
the market, while his
father works in construction. Their whole
family lives in a garage of sorts they rent
out in District 12; surrounded by a few
sturdy walls, its covered in front by sheets
and tarp. They moved to Ho Chi Minh City
eight years ago from the north, hoping to
find work.
The CMI has agreed to pay about 60
percent of the operation costs, while
Longs health insurance will cover the rest.
This money is only for the surgery, though,
and it doesnt provide any help for the cost
of medicine and the hospital room fee.
According to Dr. Do Thi Kim Chi, if
the hole in Longs heart isnt closed, the
blood stream flowing through will make it
larger and larger. He will have difficulty
growing, and he wont have good health,
Dr. Chi explains. He will grow slower

than others.
Luckily, the Heart Institute has never
had to deny a case, no matter how small
the operation. All the profits from the CMI
go directly to the Heart Institute, and they
raise additional money at their annual
charity gala. This years charity gala is at
the Park Hyatt Saigon Nov. 22.
Im lucky, Jarlier says with a laugh.
This is why the CMI [has] the charity
gala, to have enough money to be able to
not deny any case.
For more information about CMI, the Heart
Institute and their annual charity gala, go to
cmi-vietnam.com. All the profits from CMIs
medical clinic next to Notre Dame Cathedral
go back into The Heart Institute to provide
heart surgery for the underprivileged
Thai would have died without surgery due to severe

hypertension. His lung would have been severely
damaged, causing a lung embolism or a heart failure
THE CITY
HCMC
Upwardly
Mobile
The story of the street Phan Xich Long
shows how urban regeneration can
revitalise an area. Words by Nick Ross.
have an afternoon meeting in

Starbucks. Starbucks. Not the American
coffee brand redesigned for Vietnam
in Central Hanoi or Ho Chi Minh City.
No. The outlet on Phan Xich Long Street in
Ho Chi Minh Citys Phu Nhuan.
The choice of meeting place is a
compromise. I work in District 1, my client
is in Tan Binh. Phu Nhuan is somewhere
in between. But the cafe choice also works
Im trying to front a positive image. In
Vietnam Starbucks wins brownie points.
My memories of Phan Xich Long are
of a shortcut. Named after a 20th-century
mystic and geomancer who claimed to be
the emperor of Vietnam he said he was
descended from Ham Nghi the road is
blessed with space. Four lanes are separated
by a grassy central reservation that acts as
a quick route between Go Vap, Tan Binh
and District 1. It was a way of avoiding the

main arteries as I headed in and out of town.
That was six years ago where at least twice
a month I had to head out to Go Vap. I had
learnt the back routes, I had navigated the
alleyways and I discovered this road. It was
incongruous. While elsewhere the streets of
Phu Nhuan were maze-like and airless, here
was the type of boulevard that you would be
more likely to find in a new city. And thats
what it was. A new city. A new dust-filled
suburb under construction.
My next set of visits were four years ago
when I had a number of meetings with a
client out there.
Why is your office out here, I remember
asking the client.
The rents cheap, she replied, and you
only need to go over a small bridge to get to
District 1 and Tan Dinh Market.
She was right. This area is deceptively

close to downtown Saigon. Located just on
the other side of Nhieu Loc Canal, in just 15
minutes or even 10 you find yourself in the
heart of the city. District 1 is just on the other
side of the canal.
Regeneration
If ever an area in this country has benefited
from urban regeneration its Phu Nhuan,
and in particular the streets in the vicinity
of Phan Xich Long. Located on the edge
of Nhieu Loc Canal, rewind ten years and
the place was a mess. The canal smelt,
emitting a constant odour of sulphur that
got stronger with the rain. The houses here
were rundown, many without proper water
systems. And even though this was the place
to go for Ho Chi Minh City street food it
was the first area in town where you could
This once dusty building site is now a middle class area you just
need to look at the villas on the side streets to see the wealth
buy almost every dish around Vietnam
the place was unwholesome.
The change started with the regeneration
of the Nhieu Loc Canal Basin. A project
sponsored by The World Bank, not only
was the canal dredged and cleaned up, the
main sewerage system around the canal area
was dug up and replaced. The disruption,
particularly around Le Van Sy and Nam Ky
Khoi Nghia on the other end of Phu Nhuan,
lasted for just under a decade. Traffic was
diverted, roads were dug up, and oddly,
no-one quite understood what work was
actually being done. Theyre putting the
electric cables underground, was the main
prognosis.
As the end of the project neared

conclusion in 2012, so the lipstick arrived
the surface development that has made
the whole area surrounding the canal what
it is today. First came the high-rises, then
the walkways, greenery and the purchasing
of old houses that were knocked down and
rebuilt. While the whole of the canal all the
way to the edge of Tan Binh has benefitted
from the regeneration, its the area around
Phan Xich Long that has seen the largest
explosion of wealth and change.
Location is key. Phan Xich Long is so
close to District 1 that moving just slightly
out of town or that much nearer is a nobrainer. This once dusty building site is now
a middle class area. You just need to look

at the villas on the side streets to see the
wealth. Named after flowers Hoa Mai,
Hoa Cuc, Hoa Hong, Hoa Lan, Hoa Phuong
and Hoa Dao the terraced houses on these
roads are built three or four storeys high.
Some resemble French-era constructions, but
most mix architectural styles, demonstrating
the whims of their owners.
With the local population have come
the restaurants, cafes and other businesses
to fulfill their needs. Lotteria, Givral,
Starbucks, Tokyo Deli, Baskin Robbins,
Sumo BBQ, Pizza Hut, Nice Karaoke, Thai
Express and Popeyes are all here. There
are also English language training schools,
While elsewhere the streets of Phu Nhuan were maze-like and

airless, here was the type of boulevard that you would be more
likely to find in a new city. And thats what it was. A new city.
A new dust-filled suburb under construction
Hoan My Hospital, a granite pagoda, Rach
Mieu Sports Centre, the ASEAN Dental
Center, Uma and an international school.
Its probably the largest concentration of
modern businesses outside the purposebuilt suburbs and shopping malls in
the whole of Vietnam. There are even
guesthouses advertising hour-long hotel
stays for VND50,000. Two hours cost 70.
Early Morning
Its 7am and just opposite the front gates
of Rach Mieu Sports Centre, the exercise
afficionados are in full throttle. From
inside the sports centre the background
music of an aerobics or step class blasts
out of the speakers. Members here have
a choice of sports and exercise options
yoga, ballroom dancing, billiards, gym
work, swimming, aikido, kick boxing,
taekwondo. Outside on the park by the
canal, the exercise facilities are free.
Three women take it in turn on one of
the mini parks, non-electronic walking
machines. Next to her a man is in full
sweat mode on the cross trainer while
a woman in between dressed in beige
brown pyjamas is rolling her wrist and
performing what looks like an inane series

of neck, stomach and hip stretches. After a
few minutes, though, she starts to sweat.
Elsewhere walkers and runners of all ages
amble by, some along the river promenade,
others on the sidewalk opposite. Cyclists
pedal down the road, many on expensive
bikes.
It's the kind of scene you can watch for
hours. The flora and walkways created
along the canal have in their turn created
a rare green setting in the heart of urban,
concrete suburbia, a perfect hub for people
to get some respite from the life of the city.
And on the other side of the canal,
observing it all is the towering Chua Van
Tho, a recently spruced up pagoda with its
towers, gold-painted dragons and statues
of the various Buddhist deities looking out
across the water.
This is Phan Xich Long, an inner city
model of regeneration and middle-class
aspiration. I decide to avoid Starbucks this
time for my early morning dose of caffeine
and head to Caf Moc on Hoa Mai with
its rustic wooden paneling, quality sound
system and walls decorated by old hi-fi
equipment.
Cover Story
Words by Katie Jacobs, Hoa Le, Ed Weinberg and Nick Ross.

Photos by Kyle Phanroy, Francis Xavier, Glen Riley, David Harris and Julie Vola
Read through the news and of
In todays world there is a belief that its only

negative news and sensation that sells units
or draws in readers. And when its straight
PR, readers just seem to switch off.
political interests? In our humble opinion,

no. And with Vietnam often being the recipient of negative press, we decided to do
the opposite this month and give you the
anti-cover story, one that remembers all
thats good about this country. And believe
us, from quirks to coffee, language to arts,
culture and dramatic landscapes, theres a
lot. Far more than we could ever place in
these fair pages.
Is the world really such a bad place, one

where the only things we talk about are either negative or influenced by corporate or
So read on and join with us in celebrating

all that is good about this country we live
in Vietnam.
No.1 every ten stories, eight will be

negative and two will be PR.
Rarely will there be a story that is genuinely
positive.
No.2
No.3
Coconuts
Cafs
The number of cafs in

Vietnam is perhaps only
exceeded by the number of motorbikes
here. There are so many of them, and the
style of each goes beyond diverse. From
kitsch, communist-themed cafs like Hanois
Cong Caphe to the sleek, colonial charms of
Saigons LUsine, from cafs devoted to fans
of Trinh Cong Son (Hanois Caphe Nhac
Trinh) to cafs devoted to fans of Japanese
weirdness (Saigon maid cafs Viet Moe and
The Other Person); there are as many places
to take your coffee as there are methods of
preparation. New trends are evolving all
the time from the pet cafs that are lately
flooding Vietnams biggest cities to the
evolving artisanship of Hanois Oriberry
and Saigons [a] caf.
And of course, we cant forget the typical
street caf their low wooden or plastic
tables make it easy to get a ca phe sua da
wherever you go. Just get lost in any coffee
shop on Hanois Trieu Viet Vuong also
known as coffee street or in Saigons Phu
Nhuan District. Somehow, we think youll
find your fix.
They drop on your

head. Fortunately their
contents can also drop in your mouth,
although you need to open them first. In
Vietnam coconuts are cheap, nutritious
and very, very tasty.
No.4
Flower
Markets
The best-smelling markets around,

these pre-dawn hubs of greenery are
brightened by neat lotus flowers in
summer and cheerful wild roses in
winter.
Long Bien
Bridge
No.5
The iconic iron peaks of Hanois

oldest bridge have transported
trains, bikes and pedestrians across
the Red River for over 110 years. And
no, contrary to legend it wasnt built
by Gustave Eiffel.
No.6
Pagoda Yellow
Deep, ubiquitous and full of

mystique, pagoda yellow is
found everywhere in Vietnam, and not just on
the walls of the countrys temples.
CenturyNo.7
Old Temples
The oldest temple in Vietnam was built in

AD182 and finished in AD226. Chua Dau
in Bac Ninh Province, 30km away from
Hanoi, is the first hub of Buddhism in the
country. Rebuilt in 1313 by King Tran Anh
Tong, the temple has gone through many
periods of renovation. But whats made
Chua Dau special is still evident today

its 101 Buddha statues or its nearly
300-year-old copper bells.
There are nearly 15,000 Buddhist temples
across the country, most of which were
built so long ago that they have become
an essential part of life for residents in the
neighbourhood. For a Khmer version of the
humble pagoda, head to Soc Trang or Tra
Vinh in the Mekong Delta. Here some of the
temples date back 1,500 years.
No.8
Paddy Fields
No.9
Alleyways
Ngo, Kiet and Hem
No.10
Countryside
Churches
Take a trip to Ke Sat in the northern province

of Hai Duong, and youll stumble across
a church as large as, if not larger than, the
cathedral in Hanoi. Phat Diem Church in
Ninh Binh, probably the best-known church
in the north, is equal in size and of even
greater renown. Head out to Bac Giang and
into the countryside, and suddenly you
see churches soaring high above the fields.
Built in the early 20th century, these houses
of worship act as focal points for a once,
strongly religious community. The separation
of Vietnam into north and south in 1954
changed all that most Catholics from the
north moved south. But the architecture
remains. Its certainly something to behold.
Take the Lang Hoa Lac

highway just 50km out
of central Hanoi, and you will end up in
the beautiful village of Duong Lam. Its no
surprise to find yourself lost down roads
that look like they did 100 years ago. From
the village gates to the lotus pond, the
bamboo bush to the limestone walls, the

old tiled roofs, the Han-Viet lettering above
doorways they all create a perfect picture
of Vietnamese traditional villages, with
beauty, charm and peace.
Duong Lam is the only village near
Hanoi that still keeps a large percentage of
its houses in their original shape some
are 400 years old. Take a careful look at
the carvings on their wooden awnings or

their curved roofs, and you will see some
sophisticated works of art.
Despite an increasing number of
daytrippers hopping into the village or
Vietnamese couples using the place as
a backdrop to their wedding photos,
the ambience of the past is still there
hopefully it wont disappear anytime soon.
Photo by Francis Roux
No.11
Duong Lam
No.12
West Lake
Once connected directly

to the Red River, West
Lake has been a geographical feature of
Hanoi for centuries and the inspiration
for many folk stories. Once home to
summer palaces for Vietnamese royalty,
the area is a hive of activity for many
Hanoi residents. On weekends the lakes
The Wild,
No.13
Wild North
Sapa, Bac Ha, Ha Giang, Cao Bang, Dien

Bien Phu, Son La: the edge of the Vietnamese
empire, the home to large numbers of this
countrys ethnic minorities, the jewel of the
north, the location of the most astounding
No.14
Wildlife
From remote
mountainous regions and
stunning limestone karst landscapes to dense
forest and picturesque coastline, Vietnam
is famous for her diverse ecosystems and
habitats. But Vietnam is not just blessed with
a high level of biodiversity it is blessed
with unique, endemic species that are still
National
No.15
Parks
Despite illegal exploitation, Vietnamese

still nurtures an impressive variety of
fauna and flora in its 30 national parks.
While Phong Nha-Ke Bang in Quang
Binh Province has lately gotten all the
publicity a UNESCO World Heritage
site and home to the worlds largest cave,
Grandmas
No.16 Wearing
Pyjamas
17km shoreline is packed with people

riding bikes, walking dogs, fishing and
socialising. For the really keen there are
also swan boats and kayaks as well as the
delights of the water park. In the evening,
the colourful lights of Hanois skyline
glisten along the shore, and on clear days
you can glimpse the hills surrounding the
city.
natural beauty in Vietnam. Its wild yet

with development, much of the area has
been tamed. Its breathtaking, yet with the
building of new villages and towns, it now
boasts pockets of concrete in all its ugliness.
Its traditional, its conservative, its cold and
rainy yet hot and humid in the blistering
northern summer. And its the only part of
Vietnam you may get snow.
being discovered today. Over the past

two decades scientists have unveiled four
previously unknown mammal species. One
of which is the rare saola, an almost mythical,
antelope-like animal that nobody knew
existed. It is undeniable that effective wildlife
conservation has become an issue throughout
Vietnam, but as environmental awareness
grows, the next generation is set to lead
Vietnam into a bright and healthy future.
Son Doong Ba Be National Park is the

pride of the north with its beautiful giant
lake. There is also Cuc Phuong National
Park, home to a primate conservation
centre that has rescued some of the
worlds most rare and endangered
langurs. And of course, Nam Cat Tien,
once home to the Javanese rhino. Take a
trip to any of those parks and add one
more word to your Vietnamese travel
journal: spectacular!
No.17
Hanoi Rock
City
It could be local, it could

be international, it could be rock or rap,
dubstep or folk. Any way it comes, there is
usually some type of talent on show at the
largest dedicated music venue in Hanoi.
With a downstairs, English-style pub garden
area and an upstairs space dedicated to live
music and live production, Hanoi Rock City
has been making a huge impact on Hanois
arts scene since its opening four years ago.
No.18
Cargo Bar
Built out of an old

warehouse on the District
4 banks of the Saigon River, the opening of
Cargo Bar (and its larger version, Q4), has
revolutionized the music scene in this city.
Where before there was nothing, suddenly
theres a venue to go to, a ready-made space
to attract the audience and stage the acts.
No.19
Saigon
Outcast
Much like Hanois dear departed Zone

9, Outcast is Saigons outlet for letting its
freak flag fly. When it dropped its retrofitted
shipping containers on the far side of Thao
Dien in early 2012, it became a place where
like minds could gather and collaborate
and now the culture theyve helped create
can be found everywhere.
No.20
Sailing Club
Twenty years and still

going strong, Nha Trangs
premier bar still attracts the crow and still
takes full advantage of its beachside location.
To this day, theres yet to be another venue in
Vietnam that regularly draws in 2,000 people
at the weekend. Quite an achievement.
No.21
The American Club
With a wide lawn, volleyball and basketball

courts, and some of the most exciting
outdoor events in the city, the American
Club adds flavour to Hanois cultural
scene. The events here are as diverse as
the organisations that host them: from the
embassy to independent groups; from mud
parties to music festivals, the American Club
is always a great place to visit and socialise.
No.22
CAMA ATK
For music and bar lovers

in Hanoi, especially
those who love that hip, speakeasy vibe,
event space CAMA ATK is the place to go.
Opened by CAMA, the first independent
music promoter to bring international
music acts to Hanoi, its home to original
music and international, non-mainstream
DJs, as well as an eclectic mix of music,
film and comedy. For cocktail aficionados,
ATK serves some of the best mixed drinks
in the city, too.
No.23
Rag and Bone Ladies
Vietnamese
No.24
Women
Get fooled by the slight frame and well

made-up facade at your peril. Vietnam's
female population are a force to be recognised

with. So proud is Vietnam of its Asian
tigresses, that they have a Woman's Museum
in Hanoi dedicated to their prowess as well as
institutes all over the country devoted to the
advancement of women.
No.25 Motorbikes
No.27
Plastic
Stools
Xe Om
No.26
Drivers
No.28
Wearing
Raincoats
No.29
Water
Puppets
Dating back to the 12th century, water

puppets started as a common form of outdoor
entertainment for both children and adults
in the countryside. The sculpted wooden
puppets are fitted with floats and an ingenious
system of rods and wires, and are operated
by puppeteers standing in water up to their
chests behind the stage. Telling stories inspired
by both the daily lives of rice growers as well
as mythology, dragons, serpents, silver and
gold fish, peasants and their flocks of ducks,
fishermen and their catches all come to life
through the puppets exaggerated actions and
humourous gestures. The show is made whole
by a live band playing cheo music.
No.30
Vietnamese
Dong
No.33
Floating
Markets
Shiny purple eggplants, squat squash

and furry zucchini bob on spindly poles
far above the jumble of boats and people
vying for river space in the Mekong Deltas
floating markets. In the cool dawn light,
sellers and patrons jump skilfully from boat
to boat buying, selling and haggling over
the days fresh produce.
No.35
Bum
No.34
Guns
Ballroom Dancing
in the Park
Waltz, tango, rumba or quickstep.
Who needs Strictly Ballroom or Come
Dancing when you can do it yourself
in Hanois parks?
Forget comparisons with the relative

strength of the British Pound, The Euro or
the US Dollar. Not every country can say
that the majority of their population are
millionaires. But Vietnam can. Even better
for English speakers are the puns: "Put
your dong in your pocket," and "Keep your
dong to yourself". Just a few of the giggleinducing wordplays out there.
No.31
Rice Wine
Ruou de, ruou chuoi, ruou

can, ruou nep, ruou thuoc,
ruou mo qua, ruou go den The list of ruou, or
rice wine, peculiar to Vietnam goes on. And
if you want to drink your ruou with style, the
Son Tinh range out of Hanoi is the way to
go apricot, red plum, white ginseng, Minh
Mang and passion fruit. Theyve even got
their own selection of cocktail recipes. Devils
fart, anyone?
No.32
Auspicious
Days
Have you ever noticed a day when it seems

everywhere you go, you see a wedding? Or
that certain day after the Tet holidays that
the shops and stores reopen altogether?
Thats because most Vietnamese people
believe there are certain good days to start
an important journey, such as a new married
life or a business venture. They go to see a
fortuneteller, who picks a date for them from
the lunar calendar, with consideration for
their astrological signs.
And there are days that its common
knowledge to avoid. There is a Vietnamese
saying that goes: Cho di ngay bay, cho ve
ngay ba which literally means Dont go
out on the 7th and come back on the 3rd.
And people believe its best to avoid doing
business on these unlucky days. Unlikely
as it may seem, many believe that this was
created from the experience of people in the
past, so it wont be wrong.
The Smell of
Bun Cha and
Suon Nuong
No.36
Hanoi late morning. The aroma of pork on

the barbecue drifts through the streets in
preparation for that lunchtime favourite,
bun cha. Saigon early morning, and sweetgrilled suon, or pork cutlets, get stoked over
the outdoor coals, readied for that very
Saigonese of accompaniments bitty rice
or com tam. A health hazard? Yes. The open
barbecues are hardly the definition of safety.
But it smells so good that who cares. It tastes
even better.
No.37
No.40 Bia Hoi
Autumn in
Hanoi
For many people, autumn is the most

beautiful and romantic season of the year.
This is particularly true for Hanoi. Those long
summer days with the humidity and intense
heat are suddenly gone and replaced by
pleasant days with that perfect temperature,
which gets everyone into a sweeter mood.
Although it normally lasts for just a couple
of weeks, people seize the opportunity to get
out of the house and walk through the fallen
leaves on Phan Dinh Phung, or enjoy the nice
breeze on the West Lake. During autumn, life
in Hanoi cant be any better.
No.41
Green Tea
If youre looking for

a taste that defines
Vietnam, pull up a chair at any of the simple
tea stands across the country. Tea, tra or che
has been in Vietnam 10,000 years, and there
are still three million Vietnamese people
who work in the national tea industry,
which exports tea to 70 countries. It greets
the first hours of the morning or a guest
when they enter a home; families sip on
it when they celebrate at weddings and

when they grieve at funerals; teenagers
drink sweetened concoctions; old men sit
around quaffing bitter, golden brews, as
they smoke cigarettes and play chess. Day
or night, someone somewhere is sipping on
tea. And whats more? Its believed that the
elixir helps prevent potential maladies that
come with time, as well as helping to reduce
cholesterol and aid digestion. So much so
that its a common question, have you taken
your tea today yet?
No.38 Lotus Ponds
No.39
Funeral
Music
The evocative sounds generated from a band

playing bells, drums, a two-stringed fiddle,
a pair of cymbals, a flute and sometimes a
three-stringed lute is something you wont
hear anywhere else. In Saigon this has been
adapted to include a brass band. The sounds
are supposed to evoke a deep longing for
the dead, but at the same time, to recognise
the beauty of being alive. The music played
in the ritual is supposed to accompany the
deceased relative to the land of Buddha,
and usually lasts from one to three days,
depending on the family.
No.42
Temple Food
Thanks to the influence

of Buddhism, vegetarian
cuisine is big in Vietnam. Served up in
temples and a growing amount of flash
eateries around the country, the most
devout Buddhists dont let a scrap of
meat or dairy enter their holy mouths.

While the less devout followers of this
sacred way of life go vegetarian on the
1st and 15th of the lunar month, so the
rise of vegetarian cuisine has led to the
creation of a non-meat, vegan diet that
these days can be easily adhered to. If
you dont mind faux meat, that is.
No.43
Da Cau
(Jianzi)
Vietnams national sport. Who would have

thought that a shuttlecock and a net could
create so much excitement?
No.44 Flower Arrangements
No.45
Humidity
Its not the heat, its the

humidity are the words
on everyones lips come the northern
summer. But who says thats a bad thing
plants are always green, cold beer
tastes even better, and a beach is never
too far away, making it easy to cool off.
Besides, with constant dampness encasing
the hair and skin, who needs moisturiser
or a curling iron?
No.46
No.48 Ca Phe Phin
Beach
Weather
With year-round summer in the south and

long months of warm weather in the north,
the time is always right to enjoy the countrys
long stretches of powdery white sand, hidden
coves and tropical islands. Whether its Phu
Quoc in January or Danang in July, youll
always find beach weather somewhere along
Vietnams 3,600km of coastline.
No.49
Japanese
Cuisine
No-one knows for sure, but theres well over

400 Japanese restaurants in Vietnam now,
and most of them at least the ones catering
for Japanese customers are excellent. So
good, in fact, that with the correct imported
ingredients and well-trained chefs, you can
eat fare in Vietnam thats as good as the
offering youll get in Japan.
No.50 Noodles
No.51
Kim Chi
Korea is in Vietnam in
a big way. Not just in
terms of investment, factories, a large
expat population and construction, but
also with its pop culture and, of course,
its cuisine. So popular is the Korean guise
that for years Vietnamese food processing
companies have been producing their own
version of kim chi. Its not as good as the
original, but its not far off.
No.52 Banh Mi
No.47
All That Mam
Nuoc mam, mam tom, mam

ruoc, mam cha, mam tet. The
list of mam, or fermented sauces,
goes on. Some is for dipping, some

is for cooking, and some just simply
smells terrible. But we love it anyway.
Vietnam just wouldnt be Vietnam
without all that mam.
Dyed Poultry No.53
Cultural
No.54
Centres
Touring musicians, art exhibitions, upand-coming DJs and foreign film festivals
these are just a few of the activities
on offer at the various cultural centres
around Vietnam. With a wide array of
entertainment, the centres offer a place to
learn about different cultures, meet people
from around the world and perhaps even
study a foreign language. Venues such
The Rainy
No.55
Season
as LEspace, Idecaf, the Korean Cultural

Centre, the Goethe Institut and the Japan
Foundation are important mediums for
cultural engagement, and contribute
significantly towards the diversity of
Vietnams social scene. Often attached to
embassies and consulates, they fulfil one of
the most fundamental forms of diplomacy
encouraging people-to-people interactions
and cultural exchange to foster deeper
understanding of different cultures. But above
all, they are cool spaces to hang out, enjoy the
interesting events and just have fun.
Manzi Arts
No.56 Caf and
Gallery
Beautifully designed in a colonial-era villa

with a bright white interior and decorated
by a constant flow of art exhibitions, Manzi
is Hanois contribution to the contemporary
art world. Its the combination of a caf, arts
shop, gallery space, performing stage and
occasional debating platform that has made
Manzi a regular meeting point for many
home-grown artists and art lovers. Having
a chill-out morning with friends in this
stunning space isnt a bad idea, either.
No.57
Suzanne
Lecht
No.58
Mountain
Cold
Dalat at all times of the year. Tam Dao in the

summer. Bach Ma and Ba Na from March
to September. The northern highlands from
late spring to late autumn. Its a respite, a
chance to breath, an opportunity to escape
the often insatiable heat of the lowlands.
Breathe that mountain cold deep into your
lungs and wow, not even a whiff of the
pollution of the big cities.
Art
No.59 San
Experimental and
contemporary are two

sides of the same coin at Saigons hub of
the new: the artist-led gallery, reading room
and arts advocacy organisation San Art. In
their seven years of activity, theyve brought
artists and art theorists together to lecture,
exhibit and generally serve their mission
the fostering of a Southeast Asian arts
community with an unshakeable identity.
No.60
Craig
Thomas
No.61
Quynh
Pham
No.62
The Gang
of Five
At the beginning of the 1990s a group of

five Hanoi-based artists exploded onto the
art scene. Known as The Gang of Five,
its members include Ha Tri Hieu, Tran
Luan, Hong Viet Dung, Dang Xuan Hoa
and Pham Quang Vinh. Graduates of the
University of Fine Arts, although the work
of each artist was stylistically quite unique,
they had a common theme. For the first
time since 1975, Vietnamese artists were
producing work no longer connected to
social realism and propaganda art.
With their work exhibited in Hong Kong
at the Plum Blossoms gallery, the show,
Uncorked Soul, was to change the way the
world viewed Vietnamese contemporary
art. Suddenly foreign collectors were flying
into Vietnam to buy up works not just by
The Gang of Five, but other Vietnamese
artists, too. And with the arrival in
Vietnam of art dealer and curator, Suzanne
Lecht, who made it her mission to promote
Vietnamese art, contemporary art in this
country got its first, post-war boost.
Now art is thriving and many artists
in Vietnam have received international
recognition. But if it wasnt for The Gang
of Five and the championing of Vietnamese
art by Suzanne Lecht, the contemporary
arts scene in this country could be in a
very different place.
HipNo.63 hop and

Skating
Twenty years and counting. The hip-hop

and skating scenes are continuing to rack
up the followers. Fancy doing some body
popping, anyone?
Expat Bands
No.64
The Hi-Jinks, The Electric

Yard Dogs, Mecha
Sasquatch, The 67s, The Freckled Gypsys,
UGWAE, Space Panther, James and the Van
Der Beeks. There are a lot of them around
at the moment. Lets hope some of them, at
least, are here to stay.
No.65
The Business
Climate
The international credit crunch in 2008 was

when it all started to go wrong. Well, not
quite, but the boom days of the previous
five years were no longer quite so boom.
Fortunately theyve also not gone quite so
bust either.
You can see the business climate in
Vietnam in two ways. You can go negative
and focus on the stalled construction
projects, the lack of liquid assets, the
supposed red tape that bars businessmen
from getting things done, the lack of
profitability of SEOs and the issues with bad
debt. But to do that is to miss something
quite vital about this country. Its a land of
opportunity.
Theres more competition these days,
and you can no longer get away with doing
something half-arsed. But come up with a
good business concept, and the start-up costs
are still relatively low. Get your model right
from the offset and youve also got a fair
chance of making it a success.
Labour remains relatively cheap, there
are many niche markets yet to be tapped,
and the Vietnamese population is constantly
crying out for something that is bigger and
better.
The business climate is still good in
Vietnam. And those in the know are taking
of advantage of it.
Cheap
Cigarettes
The Bitexco
No.68
Tower
No.67
No.69 Dive Bars

No.70
No.71
BBQ
Restaurants
Names
Do you ever wonder

where all those onesyllable Vietnamese names come from? They
can mostly be traced back to the old chu nom
the Chinese characters that were formerly
used to communicate Chinese-Vietnamese
words. Often they carry beautiful and deep
meanings that younger generations may not
be aware of. And dont let the spelling trick
you. Some names may look funny in English,
but older generations put a lot of thought
and expectation into them. Just to give a few
examples: Phuc Good Luck; Bich Jade;
Long Dragon; Son Mountain; Nguyet
Moon; Duc Morality.
No.72
The Tones
Dau sac, dau huyen, dau

nang, dau hoi, dau nga,
khong dau Master the tones, and youre
speaking what some linguists call one of the
most difficult languages in the world. Fail
to get your tones right and youll get smiles,
laughter and just wont be understood.
Vietnamese is a melody, a set of melodies,
and the tones are the notes. Understand that
and youll be singing in no time.
No.73
Dialects
Take Hanoi Vietnamese

and Saigon Vietnamese,
and so different are the dialects that you
might as well have two languages, as similar
and as distant from each other as Swedish or
Norwegian, Dutch or Flemish. Yet the dialects
in this country are part of its character, are
what makes the various regions unique.
Go to Hue and the language has a different
melody. Hit Quang Ngai or Quang Nam and
its unintelligible. Go out of Hanoi and ns
get mistaken for ls and the ls mistaken for
ns. And hit the Mekong Delta and all the
consonants get dropped.
No.74
Tuc Ngu
Talking with older

Vietnamese men or
women, and hearing them pepper their
speech with traditional sayings can lighten
up your day. Some are easy to translate, such
as Tot go hon tot nuoc son literally Better
to have a piece of wood with good quality
than the one with nice varnish, figuratively
Dont judge a book by its cover. Some
arent.
For example, lets say youre attending
an elegant concert and fall asleep. Someone
might say Dan gay tai trau Cows are
listening to music. Cows are simple animals
that graze muddy fields, and have neither
the interest nor the ability to appreciate good
music and perhaps a certain similarity to
them is why you fell asleep. In those cases,
theres no need to get angry, just laugh and
say, Nguu tam nguu, ma tam ma Cows
hang out with cows, horses hang out with
horses theyre hanging out with you
because theyre on your same level. They will
laugh for sure!
No.75
No.66
The Metal
Scene
From the dregs of the late 1990s and

early 2000s, the metal scene that has
developed in Vietnam is as strong as
ever. Stage diving, moshing and on-stage
fuelled rebellion all are going from
strength to strength.
The
Vietnamese 'Yes'
Vang, da, co, duoc tey all mean okay, have

or maybe. But they dont mean a definitive
yes. Sure, it greys the lines of black and
white, and means that life heres a constant
negotiation. But without a definitive word
for yes, it also means that nothing is set in
stone. And that can only be a good thing.
Everything is possible in Vietnam theres
always a way. When it comes to getting
things done, what could be better?
Beachside
No.76
Resorts
It started in Mui Ne in the mid-1990s, and

now theyve spread up the length and
skinny breadth of Vietnam. Some of the
resorts are truly magnificent take the

InterCon in Danang, Six Senses in Ninh Van
Bay and Con Dao, Amanoi in Ninh Thuan.
And some are, well, something else. But with
all the modern amenities that you could ever
wish for, theyve changed the way people
vacation in Vietnam.
No.77 Sapa
No.78 Ha Giang
No.79 Ninh Binh
No.80 Halong Bay
No.81 Hoi An
No.82 Dalat
No.83 Con Dao
No.84 Phu Quoc
No.85
Buildings for
Trees
Reasonably
No.88 priced
five-stars
Go to London, and a five-star hotel room is

going to set you back a minimum of US$700
(VND14.7 million). Hit Singapore, and while
the rates wont be quite as steep, theyre still
going to dent your wallet. But Vietnam? Oh,
wonderful Vietnam. Here a five-star room
starts at US$80 (VND1.7 million) a night and
averages out at around US$130 (VND2.7
million). Perfect if youre looking for that
luxury break on the cheap.
No.89
Indochinese
Architecture
In an attempt to combat the climatic

and cultural inaptness of early colonial
architecture, many designs of the 1930s
sought to fuse classical European elements
with more traditional Asian decorative
features in structures that were better suited
to Vietnams hot climate. These designs, first
coined by the influential architect Ernest
Hbrard, came to be known as Indochinese
style.
No.87
Art Deco
Circular port windows,

glass encased staircases,
streamlined design the 1920s and 1930s
were an exciting time for urban change and
creativity across Vietnam. The first Vietnamese
architects were graduating from the Arts
School and building villas that rejected the
traditional colonial styles, embracing modern
international trends.
Very Cheap
3G
Another
No.93 Side of
Vietnam
Expats in
No.94 Ho Chi Minh
City
No.95
Hanoi
Grapevine
No.96
Hanoi
Massive
No.98
Historic
Vietnam
No.99
And of
other things
No.100 Tuoi Tre
Zone 9
It came, it saw, it almost

conquered. Set in a
repurposed pharmaceuticals factory in Hanoi,
last year Zone 9 almost became the alternative
arts space this country so badly needed. But
then there was the fire. Six people were killed
and suddenly the health and safety issues
came to the fore. The five buildings which
housed Zone 9 were crumbling and the place
was quickly shut down. For better or for
worse? Well never know.
No.92
No.97 Any Arena
Buildings with trees coming out of them? Thats

exactly what the award-winning construction
House of Trees managed to create. Created
by architect Vo Trong Nghia in collaboration
with Japanese architects Masaaki Iwamoto
and Kosuke Nishijima, the Ho Chi Minh City
building is being hailed as a feat of sustainable
design and creativity. The only problem is
that now, everyone who approaches Vo Trong
Nghia to design a building for them wants trees
growing out of it.
No.86
No.91 Free Wifi
No.101
No.90
Tube
Houses
Vietnams iconic tube house was created

centuries ago. Due to the taxation on
property frontage, faades extended only
two to four metres, yet the buildings
would stretch back for up to 60 metres.
In the past the tube houses were usually
only one storey to ensure that no-one
could look down upon the Emperor.
Today the style is popular for taxation
reasons and its economic use of space in
Vietnams dense urban centres.
The Word
Well, we couldnt really

leave ourselves out
of this one, could we?
insider
HA GIANG
SPECIAL
Heaven on Earth
Ha Giang is touted by those whove travelled there as the most beautiful place in
Vietnam. Nick Ross took a trip up to the countrys most northerly province
to find out for himself
Zoom, Zoom (Lets Go to the Countryside)

The bus may be uncomfortable, warns
Zoom. Sometimes people speak on the
phone very loudly and at other times there
are babies. My last trip was okay, but you
never know.
This is the second time Zoom, or Dung
in Vietnamese, has told me this. The four of
us Zoom, Hoa, Quy and myself have
just finished dinner at Foodshop 45 in Hanoi
and we are making our way to My Dinh Bus
Station. Zooms leading our trip to Ha Giang
and is trying to make an impression. With
a journalist coming along, its a chance to
show off the self-styled travel company that
she set up a year ago.
Leading tours into the countryside,
sometimes by motorbike or bicycle,
sometimes by car or bus, or sometimes even
on foot, for the past 12 months Zoom has
spent her time taking groups around North
and North-Central Vietnam. An American
university graduate she studied in Alaska
and with a one-and-a-half-year stint
living and working in Malaysia, running

tours is a new direction for her. She loves it,
but its taken its toll.
Im burnt out, she says. I need a
break.
Yet as we arrive at the bus station you
can see shes excited. Its written in her
smile. Shes already made a dozen trips to
Ha Giang, but theres always more for her
to discover. You can see the anticipation.
The sleeper bus comes replete with
reclining bunk beds four to a level either
side of the aisle, two levels. Because of all
the equipment Im carrying computer,
camera and lenses I dont want to put my
bag in the hold. So I pay for an extra bed.
Its a luxury, but Im still uncomfortable.
The beds arent just made for difficult
sleepers like myself, especially someone
who likes to sleep on their side. Here I have
to sleep face up.
Nine hours later we arrive in Ha Giang
City, our sleep interrupted by loud phone
conversations and a midnight stop at a

roadside restaurant. I breathe in the early
morning air. I may be in the city but
after all these years of wanting to go to Ha
Giang, Im finally here. There is a spring in
my step.
I dont like doing motorbike tours so
much, says Zoom as we eat breakfast. It
can be dangerous.
The experience has taught Zoom to take
precautions. One of them is speed. She
drives slowly, sometimes infuriatingly
slowly. But its safe, and at 30 or 40km/h
any accidents have been minor. You also
get to see the views and stop a lot our
itinerary takes in 100km a day.
Within 2km of leaving the city the
countryside descends on us. Despite being
overcast its already breathtaking. We stop,
take photos.
Just you wait, says Zoom. Theres a
twinkle in her eye. Every day the scenery
is different.
The Rain
As we enter the national geopark and start
heading up into the Dong Van Highlands,
the clouds are low, sitting like cotton wool
in between the mountains, or looming
grey and sullen above. Its been spitting
and the road is slippery, but the scenery is
spectacular at every turn.
Oh its so nice when the suns out and
the skies are blue, says Zoom at a photo
stop. Dont worry, tomorrow. Its always
bad weather on the first day I arrive.
For me the clouds and the drizzle create
atmosphere what passes in front of
my eyes is already what I came here for.
Mountains, lush greenery, valleys, small
houses and villages. Its the feeling, too,
the emotion of being out of the town and
in the wild. City life already belongs to
another world.
Were getting wet, but its surface water
wet, a glistening film appearing over our
waterproofs. Zoom has a full raincoat
kit trousers and jacket. Hoa has a
see-through raincoat. Both myself and

Quy just have rain jackets our trousers
are getting damp, but well pull through.
Halfway through the second pass the
sky darkens, the wind starts to swirl and
a storm breaks. Our speed slows. Now
were at 20km/h as the road hugs the
side of ravines and falls into twists and
breakneck turns.
The rain continues to come down,
harder, pelting us with anger. A pool
of liquid has formed in my shoes, my
trousers cling like a wetsuit to my skin.
Ive forgotten to zip my raincoat all the
way up to the top my shirt is sodden
and Im starting to shiver. I left Hanoi with
the remnants of the flu. This isnt good.
Still the road winds on through the
mountains without a house in sight. We
stop, drenched, pause for breath and then
continue on.
Another 15 minutes and we come to
the first house, a wooden-fronted shack
inhabited by a Hmong family. Zoom pulls

in and we see two young girls playing on
the porch. They have a makeshift swing
two strips of material hanging from a
beam. They take turns swinging back and
forward, supporting themselves with the
strength of their arms.
Can we stop for a bit? Zoom asks
a slightly older girl standing in the
doorway. We get a yes and we descend
from our bikes out of the rain.
Its cold, very cold, and its summer.
We stand there shivering, but gradually
start to interact with the kids and their
mother. Zoom gives them some toys
shes brought a bunch of masks,
fluffy toys and rattles with her and a
conversation picks up. Were in the middle
of it all, taking photos, chatting, laughing,
bridging gaps that are otherwise difficult
to be bridged. The Hmong are a private
people, and here we are in the middle of
them.
The Drunken Husband and the Masks

Its afternoon of day one and the scenery
has changed. Within 5km of leaving Quan
Ba the mountains start to loom high above,
the vegetation becomes sparse, and the rock
turns black, volcanic black.
The people are so poor here, Zoom
tells us, directing her arms towards the
mountains. Look at it, they cant even
grow rice.
She leads us to a shack next to a school.
The Hmong woman living there is someone
shes met a few times. Shes so poor and I
think her husband is a drunk.
Last time I came here she was sick, she
adds. I dont like giving people money
I normally give her food. But I gave her
VND100,000 to buy medicine.
Inside the shack the place is a mess. Corn,
part ground for food, part whole, sits on a
plastic tarpaulin in its midst, and pots and
pans are strewn across the floor. Zoom has
bought some fluffy toys. She gives one to
each of the kids. The smiles emerge. The
kids are entranced.
We move on and within a couple of
kilometres we see a boy chasing a goat
down a road. The goat runs into the
alley besides us and into the house. We
get talking to the boy and his sister, and
give them masks that Zoom has brought
from Hanoi as a present. But quickly
our presence is discovered and more
kids arrive. Some are meek, some more
confident, but each one is intrigued by the
four strangers and the masks. The laughter
starts to rise, games start getting played,
adults stick their heads out of houses and
watch.
Moon Rock
Its morning in Yen Minh and the town is full
of ethnic minorities. Some are Hmong, some
are Tay, some are Red Dao. I stand opposite
a gas station and watch as they rock up to
fill their bikes, or amble down the street
with baskets or young kids strapped to their
backs. Out of the corner of their eyes they
watch me back.
Unlike elsewhere in Vietnam, the Hmong
here wear a mixture of traditional garb.
Some women proclaim their ethnicity
through their brightly coloured headscarves;
others through pleated dresses or the blouses
they wear. The men are uniformly dressed
in hemp-woven black shirts. The Red Dao
women, however, are in full traditional dress
black garments with a red lining. Their
men look like they could be Vietnamese.
As we head out of town and up the first
set of inclines, there are more people, more
ethnic minorities, all walking. Its market
day, Im told. Theyre headed in and out of
town. Mostly walking, many are carrying
heavy loads up the side of mountains. Only
a few are on motorbikes.
The inclines get steeper, the houses
disappear, the roads start to wind. Still there
are the walkers, colourfully dressed, camera

shy, some demanding money if we try to
take photos, some looking away in disgust.
We get higher up and Zoom points out
some cannabis growing on the side of
the road. Its a mild strain, used here for
weaving hemp. Its grown legally.
The air starts to get cold, the mist drops
and we find ourselves in a governmentconstructed village. Its called Pho Cao
and its typically un-Hmong one wide,
straight road with houses on either side
made out of concrete.
Quy sees something, goes into a house and
starts talking to the owner. Hanging outside
on the washing line are brightly coloured
pink and tartan Hmong scarves. And behind
them, barking, is a dog chained up to a small
hut. Its a Hmong Dog. Fluffy, mountainous
with an unusual face, its different to every
other dog in Vietnam. Its strangely beautiful
I stare at it, it barks back.
Inside the house the family are watching
a Hmong fighting movie from the US,
and the owner, who takes the Vietnamese
name Son, is chopping up pork. Although
corn, the Hmong staple, is strewn on a
tarpaulin on the floor, you can see this

family is relatively wealthy. Relatively. And,
by coming down from the mountains to
settle in a Vietnamese-constructed village,
theyre brave, too. Theyre integrating into
Vietnamese society. Not too much the
language spoken in the house is still Hmong.
But theyre not living lives of mountain
isolation.
We move on and the road continues to
wind and pass through ravines. And then
we come upon the first thing to really startle
us a valley filled with black, volcanic rock
intermingled with emerald green vegetation.
We stop at an observation point for lunch in
a place called Sa Phin.
Wisps of cloud fill up the valleys below.
More black-rock mountains shade like grey
and black silhouettes into the background.
And the wind is up. Not too high to be
painful, but enough to make you breathe the
air deeply into your lungs and not let go.
There is something unearthly about this
place. The rock is not from this planet. It
cant be. Even in the literature on this area
this comment is made moon rock, reads
the badly translated English. Moon rock.
Lung Cu
Were at Lung Cu, the most northerly point
in Vietnam, and were talking about the
village we just passed through. Is it M
L, meaning cross-eyed mother or Ma L
cross-eyed ghost? Were so tired from
our rain-drenched motorbike drive, which
meandered through mountain passes and
regal valleys. When we settle on cross-eyed
ghost, we dont discuss its strangeness.
We dont need to.
The scenery here is breathtaking. It defies
words. You can describe it, yes rolling
hills, dark mountains, black rock, deep green
foliage, terraced fields, winding roads, alpine
furs, adobe houses and with a role of the
tongue you can add colour, verbiage for all
the foliage, flowers for all the mountains.
But words can only capture the emotion this
place evokes, not the place itself. Everything
that is not the mountains is small, tiny, a dot
on an imposing horizon. Man is just a speck
of dirt on the majesty of nature.
But here, in the space where Vietnam
sticks up into China like a sore thumb, were
about to experience something else. That

country up north.
Lung Cu is known for its tower, a
mountain-top column and flagpole
overlooking the border. On its top flaps an
enormous Vietnamese flag, placed as if to
remind the northern hordes beyond of that
upstart nation to the south. Its on the tip of
the nail, the pointed nail of that thumb, and
the tower and flag loom resplendent below
the imposing sky.
As we climb the first set of steps there
are 270 to get to the base of the tower
Communist Party music drifts out of the
speakers. Its imposing and yet soothing,
peace-breaking yet relevant.
For the whole of the 1980s, Vietnam
fought off the Chinese on its northern
border. The Chinese managed to get no
more than a kilometre into Vietnam. With an
already war-hardened army and borderlands
like these, its no surprise.
At the base of the tower the question is
asked again and again. Where is China?
No sign marks it out. I think its to the north,

but when I look later on Google Maps, its to
the east and west as well, no more than two
kilometres either way. From where we stand,
there are villages on the other side of the
border that can only be reached by road from
Vietnam. But at this moment we dont know
that, and climbing to the top of the tower
another 144 steps we ask again.
This time the answer comes with the
wind. It soars here in blusters, hitting you
in the face. Beyond the valleys below, China
is everywhere you look, but its not here.
Certainly not here.
We have a different vantage point at the
top of the tower to the one we see on the
road. And we could stand here and soak in
the effect of man and nature for hours. But
we have to move on. Its late afternoon and
we have to get on to Dong Van for dark.
Leaving Lung Cu and China behind, we
head back south into Vietnam and through
Ma Le. Yes, we confirm. The name means
cross-eyed ghost.
Banh Cuon
Theres an Old Quarter in Dong Van, a
French Quarter with century-old houses.
And in one of them lives a woman selling
possibly the best banh cuon I have ever
tasted.
What do you call it? I ask her. Banh
cuon Ha Giang?
She laughs. Its just banh cuon, she says,
But you can call it banh cuon Dong Van if
you wish.
The wet rice paper is folded with an egg
inside it and is then served up with a bowl of
pork broth with chopped spring onions and
gio lua (pork sausage). Its spicy, its filling,
its wholesome. And it tastes delicious. I
could eat this all morning.
Do they sell this elsewhere? I ask Zoom.
Yes, she says, but this place is the best.
Heaven on Earth
Just two kilometres out of Dong Van town
you enter the district of Meo Vac. The
Vietnamese press has labeled Ma Pi Leng,
the pass we are about to go through, as
Heaven on Earth. Its majestic. Its huge.
Its awe-inspiring. Its a place that makes
your jaw drop. Its what tourists should be
coming to this country to see. Instead Sapa
and Halong Bay fall onto itineraries. Ma Pi
Leng and the Dong Van Highlands dont
come close. In a way Im relieved.
Even with the clouds settling in the
ravines, and the Nho Que River flowing
1,500m below; with the terraced paddy
fields, the colour of the ethnic minorities
and all the superlatives and emotion you
can throw at this collection of mountainous
valleys, its not heaven on earth. But its
certainly the most beautiful place Ive seen

in Vietnam, and Ive travelled a lot in this
country. Its unearthly.
It takes us almost three hours to drive the
13km between Dong Van and Meo Vac. Not
because of the roads they are well-paved
here. I love it here, I could spend all day
here. But its not heaven. At least not my
heaven. Thats something else, a different
figure of a different imagination. Greek
columns, bearded gods and angels clad in
white togas; floating stairs, early morning
sunshine peaking through patches of cloud.
Im very classical in that way.
A tourist stop has been erected at the
best-known viewpoint and down below a
castle-like tower has been built out over a
Grand Canyon-like ravine the distance
to the river at its base is 1,500m. We stop

here for half an hour, looking, breathing,
taking photos. I think of Sapa. After Ma Pi
Leng, the jewel of the Northern Highlands
is ordinary. Very ordinary.
Every day on this trip has been different,
every morning, every afternoon, every
hour, every minute. But I realise while we
drive away towards our stop for the night,
that this was the pinnacle, the climax.
As we go to the next town, Bao Lam, we
descend stunning valleys, pass through
small towns, follow river valleys, see
a woman weaving hemp, meet kids on
bridges and walk through paddy fields.
But now its all ordinary. A bit like Sapa, I
think again. A bit like Sapa. Except that its
Ha Giang.
The Cattle Market

The next morning in Bao Lam my head is
pounding pounding with the constant
changes in altitude, pounding with a bad
nights sleep the night before. The town is
full of ethnic minorities walking the main
street Tay, Hmong, San Chi, Red Dao
we are told its market day. Again.
But when we look for the market, we
cant find it. Eventually we stumble on a
makeshift space next to the river. I climb
down. Its a cattle market.
How much? I ask one guy whos
just handed someone a wad of crisp
VND500,000 notes. Six million, he
replies. Six million for this calf. Later
I discover its cheap. In Hanoi the price
would be double.
The market is packed, mainly with
ethnic minorities only occasionally do
I hear people speaking Vietnamese. Men
are parading their wares, trying to sell
cows and calves while the women look
on, commenting, gossiping and making
the decisions. A fight breaks out, man
against woman. A crowd gathers but
the argument is not in Vietnamese and by
the time I get over the woman is in tears.
No-one is coming to her aid.
Im confused, overwhelmed with a
feeling of not belonging I rarely feel in
other situations in Vietnam. I decide to
leave.
The Valley of the Nung

This is stunning, I say to Zoom as we
look over the paddy fields, stilt houses and
mountains. But after yesterday morning,
its an anticlimax.
She agrees with me. She also agrees with
me that this area, Ban Bo, has got potential.
Huge potential.
No tourists come here, she says. They
never pass through this place. But its only
good from April to September, when the
rice is high. Thats when its beautiful.
Weve been driving further and further
into the valleys of the Nung, another of
the ethnic minorities living in the area.
Once again, the scenery is different to
everywhere else weve been. Rolling hills,
paddy fields, stilt houses with tiled roofs

some even have glass windows. Black
pigs, chickens and goats run freely here,
and unlike the Hmong, the Nung look
Vietnamese. They no longer dress in the
traditional clothing of their people. But the
roads are terrible here, broken up by the
dual harshness of time and weather, and
the going is slow.
Maybe we should have taken a different
route, Zoom says, as she turns over my
comment.
No, I say. The buildup was perfect.
We hit the pass on day three. The problem,
I think, is getting back to Ha Giang. Theres
no easy way.
Here Comes the Sun

For almost 70km the road has been
following a river, and around it are
untouched swathes of jungle and houses
perched on the side of soaring, 1,000-metrehigh mountains. After the anticlimax, the
magic is returning. Even in the Central
Highlands, on the road from Dalat to Dak
Lak, you dont see valleys so pure, beautiful
and untouched. Perhaps in Quang Binh and
Quang Tri, where the Ho Chi Minh Trail
runs through the mountains. But nowhere
else. And here theres another difference.
Every few kilometres there are iron and
wood-crafted suspension bridges, decadeold structures crossing the river to the other
side, connecting otherwise disconnected
villages with the highway leading to Ha

Giang City.
Look, says Hoa from the motorbike in
front of me. The sky! Its turning blue.
We all stop, excited. Its late afternoon
and were 20km from the city. Finally
after four days, right at the end of the trip
the sun is coming out. The azure of the sky
shines back at us from the other side of the
river. Finally I can see what this part of the
world looks like with a background of blue
rather than white.
As we get closer to Ha Giang, the sun
appears through the clouds and in the final
collection of valleys before we hit the city, it
gives us a sunset. Filling the mountains with
soft light, it creates a different mystique.

We stop, look over and catch our final
breath of beauty before heading back to
civilisation.
Information
To get to Ha Giang you need to can catch
an overnight bus from My Dinh Bus Station
in Hanoi. The journey takes nine hours.
Motorbikes can be hired in Ha Giang City.
Alternatively, hire a car in Hanoi.
For more information on Zooms tours, go
to zoomzoomtravelvn.com or pop into her
office at 23 Dao Duy Tu, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi
insider
DANCE
NATIONAL
The B-Boy World Cup

Hip hop dancing has taken Vietnam by storm and, with the biggest
breakdancing event on the planet qualifying two Vietnamese teams for the finals,
it might be time for Vietnam to take the world by storm. Owen Salisbury reports
from Ho Chi Minh City on the Vietnamese qualifying round
odies surge across the stage, all grins

and swagger, as the crowd cheers
each new gravity-mocking move.
B-boy crews S.I.N.E. (Saying Is Not
Enough) and BigToe have battled other teams
many times today. Still they dance with
vigour and passion. Behind the dancers and
the pulsing lights, the judges sit stone-faced,
observing the final match like all the rest.
DJ Red Ant works his turntables like a mad
scientist, calling the dancers to battle as MCs
Buck and Quan Rapsoul draw the crowd into
a frenzy.
When the battle finishes and the winners
are announced, the auditorium erupts. It
doesnt matter who the fans came to root
for. They got what they wanted another
exhilarating show.
Welcome to Battle of the Year 2014, the
biggest breakdancing event in the country
and the world. For hip-hop dancers, BOTY is
like the World Cup.
At the beginning of August, 21 10-member
crews from over the length of the country
headed to Saigon to dance for one of two
Vietnamese spots in the Southeast Asian
finals. The finals held on Aug. 29 in Danang,
pitted the Vietnamese winners against eight
to 10 other teams from across Southeast Asia.
The Aug. 9 battle was held at Ho Chi Minh
Citys Tan Binh Gymnasium. Cheered on
by over 1,000 people, the competition was
photographed and filmed by national and
international media outlets like Xone FM,
Japanese b-boy magazines, HTV-9 and many
others.
Besides being a dazzling display of
Vietnamese hip-hop culture, there was plenty
to see and do during the roughly eight-hour
long qualifying event. The judges, all skilled,
internationally-known dancers themselves,
showcased their skills. Rapper Wowy blasted
the stage before the final battle.
Organising company Syncnamart put
together a worthy show. This is their second
year running BOTY, and they seek to affirm
that hip-hop and breakdance is not just a
platform for b-boys, but also a sport and
healthy playground for Vietnamese youth to
express themselves to the world, according
to business development manager Huynh
An.
But the day was about b-boy crews,
fans, and their love of dance. Every team
danced with athleticism, pride and skill.
Some fans watched from their seats with
a connoisseurs focus. Others danced and
cheered from the floor.
A Fated Battle
The final qualifying battle matched
powerhouse Hanoi crews S.I.N.E.
and BigToe, who have something of a
history. S.I.N.E won the Southese Asian
Championship in 2013 and a trip to Germany
for the international finals. BigToe won in
2010, making it to that years finals in France.
S.I.N.E. was formed in 2011 by 16
breakaway BigToe members, led by 26-yearold Pham Khanh Linh. Linh started dancing
10 years ago and has competed in every
Vietnamese BOTY since it debuted in 2005.
His crew now has 35 members, while BigToe

has around 60 in four teams. The oldest crew
in the country, they are a perennial BOTY
contender.
And on this day, defending champions
S.I.N.E. prevailed over runner-up BigToe, but
both teams will meet again in Danang.
It was very difficult for us to beat them,
said Linh, because of their creativity and
skill. And emotionally? They are new
members, not my bros and sisters anymore.
We beat them, same as we beat all the crews.
BigToe spokeswoman Mai Thin Vi had a
similar take. Theyre just a crew from the
same city... cant say theyre not hard cuz
they were BigToe members.
BigToe actually fielded two teams, with
secondary crew Assassins not advancing to
the final six.
Still, their shared past is important, as
both teams have devoted followings which
are steadily expanding as hip-hop culture in
Vietnam grows each year.
A Brief History
From its origin in early 1970s New York,
hip-hop culture has become a force in nearly
every country on the planet. Adapting

everywhere to meet the needs of the young, it
often causes friction with older generations.
Arriving in Vietnam over 20 years ago,
its first manifestation was with the 1992
formation of BigToe by students returning
from abroad. The first and most influential of
the Vietnamese b-boy crews, their style became
the national template, and these godfathers
of the hip-hop scene have had a tremendous
influence on every b-boy in Vietnam. Original
member Nguyen Viet Thanh, 40, remains,
heading the BigToe Limited Company. He
still breaks, apparently holding his own in
in-house battles.
Despite its apolitical nature and lack of
cultural associations different from many
other countries Vietnamese hip-hop and
breakdancing culture still needs time to gain
acceptance.
BigToe, and hip-hop as a community,
received that social recognition in 2007,
with an officially sponsored show at the
Friendship Palace in Hanoi, followed by
a national tour. In 2010, the group even
received an official Certificate of Merit, and
went on tour to France and Germany.
Its fitting that BigToe once again has a

chance to dance in the finals, as BOTY is the
oldest breakdancing competition, formed in
Germany in 1990. Its also fitting that their
progeny S.I.N.E. have their chance, as BOTY
itself has spanned generations, going from
400 to 14,000 attendees at the finals.
BOTY is a multi-month, multi-continent
affair, which kicked off in Senegal in April
of this year, and will finish in Germany on
Oct. 18. The central company recommends
countries for local and regional competitions
and local affiliates present the events.
National winners then go onto regional finals.
From there the worlds best meet in Germany.
Having finished first and second in the
national championshops, for BigToe and
S.I.N.E, Danang looms large.
For me, the toughest teams must be BigToe
crew and the Thailand b-boys, said Linh.
When asked which crews would present
difficulties in Danang, Vi laughed. We dont
know, we also dont care.
For the other teams, it was time to go
home. A lucky few went to Danang to cheer
on their countrymen. But all want a rematch
in 2015.
insider
TRENDWATCH
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ccording to YouTube statistics,

over six million hours of videos
are watched each month or in
other words, almost an hour for
every person on earth. Video blogging
v-logging started in the US around
the turn of the century, and the number
of content creators putting their products
online, hoping for a breakout hit, has
increased exponentially since then.
In Vietnam, the trend came much later
and it wasnt until 2011 that it became a
sensation among teenagers and twentysomethings here. The number of v-loggers
has also increased, and a few have racked

up subscribers in the millions. Some of the
most popular are JVevermind, An Nguy,
Pho Dac Biet, Huyme and the late Toan
Shinoda most of whom are in their early
20s themselves, and gain nice financial
benefits from all the attention.
In the beginning, most of the popular
blogs were about students lives abroad or
how to learn English well because these
first v-loggers were Vietnamese students
in the US. Todays v-logs have gotten more
varied in format and content, and have
better production quality.
I love watching JVs [short for

JVevermind] videos. I watch his videos
again and again, says Nguyen Huu Dung,
a senior college student from Hanoi. He
likes the sound effects that JV puts into his
videos and the often contentious subjects
he addresses.
16-year-old Ho Thi Thu Ha, from Gia
Lam District in Hanoi, says her classmates
wait every week for a new video from
these v-loggers. As soon as a new video
is released, its downloaded and brought
to class, so her 50 classmates can watch it
together on a big screen.
Ho Chi Minh City based V-Blogger, JVevermind
Pham Cong Thanh, otherwise known as Huyme Productions
Reality Bites
In July, the unexpected death of v-logger
Toan Shinoda, due to health issues, came
as a shock to his fans. Condolences and
expressions of mourning flooded Facebook
for weeks. Since hed started v-logging in
2011, the 27-year-old had become one of
the most popular YouTube personalities in
Vietnam for his humour and wordplay. His
series of fake news segments, in which he
imitated the scandals of teenagers or world
political figures such as President Obama
or leader Kim Jong-Il of North Korea, used
to crack people up. They now bring a bittersweetness.
The intimacy of v-logging is greater than
that generated through most other digital
broadcasts, which is why Toans death hit
many so hard. Someone they had looked
at as a friend, who they had seen so many
sides of, had gone, and there was no real
way to reach closure.
the same time, to show my opinion, says

the 22-year-old v-logger. In his nearly 60
v-logs, his biggest hit was Student Life:
Being Bullied, which scored 3.25 million
hits.
A unique personality was also key to
An Nguys rise in Vietnams virtual world.
With a toneless and somewhat husky
voice, always wearing a pair of black,
thick-framed glasses, she has rated 300,000
subscribers. Her v-logs have titles like
When a Girl Hits on a Guy and Pursuing
Ones Dream, and show her opinions
through a straight-to-the point speaking
style.
Her old high school friend Le Minh
Thu says her online persona is the same
as that of the girl she went to school with.
She was always like that, Thu says, a
bit strange and difficult to get along with.
But that just makes her videos more full of
personality and interest.
Professional V-loggers
Cam Fright
Tran Duc Viet JVevermind in YouTubespeak was a third-year student in

multimedia with a focus on web design
at Cameron University in Oklahoma,
USA, when he first posted a v-log online
in November 2011. In the beginning his
equipment was just one handheld camera
on top of a stack of books; the background
was a wall with half of the painting nailed
to it out of frame.
When putting his first video online
in which he debates another Vietnamese
students skill in English Viet never
thought that he would become one of
the most famous names in Vietnamese
v-logging, with nearly 1.5 million
subscribers. This led to his post-graduation
choice to come back to Vietnam to continue
doing v-logs.
The core here is that you have to be
very individualistic and show off your
personality, says Viet, whose signature
is a sarcastic voice and humourous word
choices. Although never trained in acting,
he often pretends to be the people that he
talks about in his v-logs. One time it was
his parents going to meet his teacher at
school; another time it was a well-known
hot girl who gets into lots of scandals.
I want to use humour even in some
serious issues, to entertain people but at
Not all v-loggers are born to feel confortable

in front of cameras. Its a challenge for some
to get over their fears and act normally in
front of a recording device.
Pham Cong Thanh, known by the
YouTube handle Huyme Productions,
said he was quite a shy guy who used to
think that he wasnt good looking. You
dont know how people receive your
videos. There are times when you post it
and start receiving negative comments or
even worse. They share your videos with
someone else and talk s___ about it, thats
when you just wanted to hide your videos
immediately, said the 21-year-old blogger,
also a student at a fine art university in
Ohio, USA.
As their target audience is mostly
teenagers and twenty-somethings the
type who often get snarky, judgemental
and even hateful it isnt easy for any
v-logger to get over their first steps of
getting online.
At first, I felt terrible. But now I dont
usually care so much [about negative
comments]. I think Ive heard the nastiest
comments already, Thanh says and
laughs.
But blogging gives me more than I
expect, he continues. So Im still happy
doing it.
Staying Relevant
As popular v-loggers with a huge amount
of subscribers, all those mentioned
are considered real influences among
teenagers and college students. They are
invited to do advertising or guest at events
for companies whose target audience is
young people.
It [v-logging] brings me many projects
that I would never have thought of,
says Thanh. Like playing in a movie,
even music videos. Im now completely
financially independent from my parents.
This is one of the things that led JV to
make a similar choice. I felt like if I came
back to Vietnam at the right time, he says.
There were a lot more opportunities than
in the US to look for a job. So I took those
chances when I still could. Perhaps after
some time, Ill go back to America. But for
now, Im happy here.
But its not always easy to earn money.
Last year, JV was criticised by some
viewers for integrating too much
product placement into his v-logs. As the
culture develops, many v-loggers JV
included feel they should have better
control of their clients demands. When
possible, this means keeping advertising
separate from their personal channels.
Maintaining popularity in this foreverchanging virtual world is also a constant
concern. Different approaches not
just the traditional sitting and talking in
front of the camera in a bedroom have
become common.
V-logger He Always Smiles made his
fame by always appearing with a cartoon
box with a smiley face inside while
blogging. Recently, a new v-logging group
called Doodle Dude has started using
sketches to tell stories, rather than show
their faces on camera. Thanh Huyme aims
to create comic books based on v-logs,
while JV plans to use short comedy
sketches. New equipment better
cameras, separate microphones, tripods,
lights and even filming assistants is also
employed to create videos with an edge.
Its all towards one goal not to be
a flash in the pan. In the end, Thanh
says, I want to become like some foreign
YouTubers who can maintain their v-logs
for a long time. I dont want to let my
channel soar up and then die quickly.
The number of v-loggers has increased, and a few have

racked up subscribers in the millions. Some of the most popular
are JVevermind, An Nguy, Pho Dac Biet, Huyme and the late Toan
Shinoda most of whom are in their early 20s themselves, and gain
nice financial benefits from all the attention
Food & drink
EAT & DRINK
NATIONAL
A Wise Draft
With draft beer suddenly becoming the drink of choice in Vietnams big cities,
Nick Ross organises a pub crawl with some of the key players in the local beer
industry. Heres what happened. Photos by Glen Riley
s the second beer tower arrives at the

table, the comments and wisecracks
start to flow.
The thing that surprises me is
that no one drives a snow plough, quips one
person. Weve been talking about traffic and
driving on the highways at night.
Oh, dont get a photo of me drinking
that, says another, worried about being
seen with beer in his hand thats not his
own brand.
Wow, this is a departure! A departure
from what? Weve already forgotten.
The music is pumping and the female DJ is
sporting the pre-requisite baseball cap. Shes
in dancing mode, grooving to her selection of
Top 40 dance tracks on a raised podium.
We have our own personal beer pourer

her name is Thao. She works the tower
and keeps it refilled. In the urinals there is
see-through glass. The view is not going to
get you producing your iPhone for that quick
Facebook shot unlike at another beer club,
Bomb Beer, where the urinals back onto the
DJ booth. But its a novelty turned into a prerequisite that seems to have followed the rise
of the beer club. That and beer towers and
high wooden plank tables and loud music
and draft beer. Most particularly, draft beer.
A Drop in the Ocean

Our present choice of watering hole is Hops
Beer Garden, a Saigon-based beer club
built on the foundations of what was once
Windows Caf, the first big, brash coffee

drinking haunt in central Ho Chi Minh City.
That was a decade ago. Now thanks to a
craze started by the legendary Vuvuzela,
its the beer clubs that are taking over. With
higher average spends VND250,000 to
VND300,000 a head as compared to the coffee
drinker average of VND50,000 the days of
large, elaborately decorated glitzy cafes are
over. Were here with some of the movers in
the beer industry. Its supposed to be a pub
crawl, but two hours in and were still at
destination number one.
Our reason? Draft, or draught, beer. How
you spell it is still up for debate. But what
isnt up for grabs is its rise in popularity
among the local populace. Its still a
top-end tipple a 330ml glass costs between

VND30,000 and VND45,000. When bia hoi
costs as little as VND10,000 for two litres, you
realise theres still a fair amount of market
penetration to go. The majority of Vietnam is
quite simply priced out of the market. After
the launch of Tiger Draft in 1995, for years
there were only three or four draft options
available in Vietnam. Yet at Hops alone, there
are seven. And a number of draft beers
including the recently launched Heineken
Draft are not even catered for here.
Thats despite beer occupying 87 percent of
packaged alcohol consumption in Vietnam.
I like it, says Sapporos Cong Thanh.
The competition is good. Tonight is a bit
unfair as everyone [in Hops] is drinking
Sapporo. I want a draft beer market where
people are drinking everything.
The reason for the present change is partly
the rise of the beer clubs. But its also Cong
Thanhs brand, Sapporo. Over the last three
years, big investment has seen the Japanese
beer, both in draft and bottled form, break
the market stranglehold of the likes of Tiger,
Heineken, Carlsberg and San Miguel. Its now
a popular brand. And in Hops its the beer

thats got all the signage.
And yet as Gary Bett (Red Rock and Gau
Den) and Tom Duncan (SABMiller) explain, the
draft beer market in Vietnam is tiny.
"Until last year, the draft beer market in
Ho Chi Minh City was mainly for expats and
tourists, says Tom. It was very small and
stable. As a result, it didnt get the investment
its seen elsewhere in the world. Vietnamese
just werent drinking it. In 2013 only 66 million
litres of draft (keg) beer was sold. That is a mere
drop in the beer-drinking ocean when you
consider that bia hoi hit the 3 billion mark.
Thanks to the rapid rise of the beer clubs,
thats all starting to change. As a value
increase, the change in draft beer consumption
is significantly higher than the pure volume,
continues Tom. But as a percentage of the total
market, its still tiny but now growing quickly.
Says Gary: For the big guys, setting up draft
beer requires a lot of investment. They have to
spend a lot of money on everything, the fonts,
the branding, the cooling systems. They have
to get it perfect. Its easy for them to lose a lot of
money on it.
Yet for someone like Belfast-born Michael

Comerton of Platinum, its far easier to enter the
market. Selling a hoppy, American-style craft
beer brewed in Vietnam that was originally
created for Aldi in Australia, being small has
its benefits. He doesnt have to go through the
costly branding and bureaucratic exercise of
the multi-nationals. Being small means he is
lean and with his draft beer in 20 high-selling
venues, its possible for him to make a profit.
Table Service
Weve gone through Platinum, Sapporo and
Red Rock. Now were on Gau Den, a tasty
black beer brewed by Gary in Vietnam. Its
the only dark beer of its type on tap.
I love beer clubs, says someone.
Theyre great for attracting a more diverse
group of customers and women feel more
comfortable here.
Yeah, says someone else. Its better for
them than going to the nightclubs. There they
end up drinking too much spirits and getting
in trouble.
We all nod in agreement. The way the
service staff at nightclubs keep your glasses
constantly filled can be challenging. Its

costly, too.
So are we actually going to move
anywhere? says Michael. I think we've
redefined pub crawl in Vietnam. You sit in
one place and the beer crawls around you.
Discussions start about where we should
go and theres some disagreement. But it
looks like Bomb Beer. Named after a slang
term developed in the north for bia hoi, its
their official opening tonight.
Suddenly I realise whats strange about the
whole experience. Table service. I go to the
front of the bar to search out the beer taps.
Its all there, font after shiny metal font lined
up in a bar space. But there are no customers
there, only service staff.
Go to a pub or a bar overseas, and the
culture is based around bar service. Rock
up, check out the fonts to see what beers are
available, and place your order directly at
the bar the fonts and the selection of beers
adds to the experience. It also means the beer
is freshly poured from the tap. Yet in Vietnam,
with beer towers you run the risk of the beer
going flat. As Gary says, Someone could fill
a beer tower full of bottled beer, and youd

never know.
Ive actually seen that done before in a
well-known bar in Saigon. They filled up
early and served punters directly from the
beer towers. By the time the beer was drunk,
it was worse than flat. It was warm, too.
So, why do they do it? I ask. Why the
beer towers and the flat beer?
Because its social, everyone seems to say
at the same time. Its about people and were
having fun.
We all laugh. Draft beer in Vietnam has
its own dynamic. How that dynamic will
develop is something to watch. But its
certainly taken off. And more beers are set to
come into the market, too.
I look at Tom, SABMillers country
manager. From all the talk it seems like hes
going to bring Peroni in on draft. Together
with Staropramen, its my draft lager of
choice when I go back to the UK. But hes
being coy.
When? I ask, in anticipation.
But my question is quickly avoided as we
move onto the next round of draft beer.
Draft Beers in Vietnam

The beers below are presently
available on draft in Vietnam:
N ATIONWIDE
Sapporo
San Miguel
Red Rock
Gau Den
Carlsberg
Tiger
Bitburger
Krombacher
H ANOI O NLY
Budvar
H O C HI M INH C ITY O NLY

Heineken
Platinum
Saigon Draft
For a list of microbrewery draft

beers available in this country,
go to the blog beervn.com
Food & drink
MYSTERY DINER
HANOI
Salt n Lime
Will Hanoi finally get Mexican food right? Our anonymous

writer arrives on the scene to check whats behind the
sombrero. Photos by David Harris
anois newest Mexican

eatery may be easy to miss,
but youll know youre
in the right place when
you see the colourful sombrero
and Mexican flag welcoming
customers to this hole-in-the-wall
establishment. Salt n Lime in
Tay Ho opened its doors in early
August and Im sure I wasnt
the only one thrilled at the idea of
good Mexican food in Hanoi.
The sign over the door promises
quick Mexican food and quick
it is. Within minutes of ordering,
our drinks arrive. The drinks list is
limited to house wine, local beer,
Corona and three kinds of tequila.
My glass of very drinkable Chilean
red (VND75,000) comes served in
a small beaker Just for a bit of
fun, says the waitress.
Indeed, it seems that this casual
restaurant could be perfectly
summarised as fun. The large front
doors are pushed open to welcome
the evening air, wooden tables are
painted in bright reds and blues,
and cheerful music mixes with the
whir of the overhead fan. For those
looking for alfresco dining there are
a few tables set in the shadow of a
large tree on the sidewalk.
Within minutes of ordering,
fragrant steam begins to rise from
within the kitchen. The whole

restaurant is really just one room
the kitchen divided from the seating
area by a large, diner-like kitchen
window. Order up for table 10,
yells the chef, sliding a foil-wrapped
package across the bench. Behind the
jars of limes and bottles of tequila he
expertly wraps burritos and tends to
pans of sizzling vegetables.
Its the Simple Things

Like any good Mexican restaurant,
the meal starts with an order of
guacamole (VND45,000) and homemade tortilla chips (VND60,000).
Unfortunately, Vietnamese avocados
dont lend themselves to really
good guac unlike their Mexican
counterparts, the local variety tend
to be slightly watery with less
flavour. Thus, despite the chefs
best efforts, the taste was somewhat
bitter.
But the homemade tortilla chips
came to the rescue. These were not
like any tortilla chips I had eaten
before. They were better. Managing
to perfectly balance thick and crispy
with light and fluffy, they were a
treat in their own right, perfectly
seasoned with, well, salt n lime.
I was still licking the seasoning
from my fingers when the main
meals were served. With only two
options on the menu burritos and

tacos ordering turned out to be
a straightforward affair, with my
dining companion and I deciding to
go for one of each. Preferring to skip
the meat, we went for vegetarian on
both and were not disappointed.
The tacos (VND60,000 for two)
were originally a little on the thin
side; capsicum and onion served
on a bed of corn tortillas, with
a wedge of lime. However, side
orders of extra salsa and sour cream
(VND15,000 each) spiced things up
and complemented the flavour of the
sauted vegetables.
Then there was the burrito
(VND140,000). There is not much to
say about this that isnt expressed
in one simple word perfection. I
usually avoid these bland, ricestuffed parcels, but Salt n Limes
vegetarian option has revolutionised
my thinking. Perfectly balancing the
veggies and black bean mix with
cheese, salsa, herbs and just enough
rice, I can happily say that Hanoi is
now home to an awesome burrito.
The next day, I asked my dining
companion what he thought of our
dinner. Thats a pretty easy sumup, he said, burrito = awesome.
What else do I need to say?
Salt n Lime is located at 6 Tu Hoa
(6/1 Au Co), Tay Ho, Hanoi
THE VERDICT
12.5
FOOD
9.5
SERVICE
DCOR
Food, Decor and

Service are each
rated on a scale
of 0 to 15.
13 15
extraordinary to
perfection
10 12.5 very
good to excellent
8 9.5 good to
very good
5 7.5 fair to
good
0 4.5 poor
to fair
The Word reviews
anonymously and
pays for all meals
STREET SNACKER
HANOI
Mien Tron
The perfect dish for the Hanoi Autumn, mien tron or mixed
glass noodles is more complex than you may think.
Words by Huyen Tran. Photos by David Harris
heres a problem with the English

word noodles or vermicelli. It
just doesnt describe the number
of noodle dishes out there, and in
Vietnam there are a lot. Bun, mien, banh
da, banh pho, banh canh, banh hoi, mi Quang,
mi The list goes on.
One of the more popular types of
noodles is mien, often known as glass
noodles in English. Made from cassava
mien is also sometimes called cassava
vermicelli as opposed to rice or wheat,
after bun this form of dried noodle is
probably the second most popular in
Hanoi.
Mien often comes fried with crabmeat
and vegetables, or as a replacement for
pho noodles in a broth known as mien ga.
However, my recommendation for the cooler
weather of the Hanoi Autumn is mixed
cassava vermicelli or mien tron.
Just Off the Main Drag

Find your way to Ly Quoc Su in the Old
Quarter and you will come across a small
mien tron eatery near the junction with
Chan Cam, Mien Tron Hanh. Like many
other street food joints in Hanoi, this place
is quite small, only fitting in one row of
tables. As this eatery was originally part
of an alley, at its end you will see stairs
leading to the upstairs apartments of local
Hanoians. Mien Tron Hanh also provides a
nice little escape from the bustling activity
of Ly Quoc Su, one of the busiest streets

in the Old Quarter. Yet it still gives you a
people-watching observation point onto
the road beyond.
Order a mien tron, wait for two minutes
and a bowl of this all-in-one dish with
shining fried onions and roasted peanuts
on top will be placed in front of you. Put
on a bit of vinegar, a drop of kumquat
juice, some chilli and mix everything up
the blended taste may come as a bit of a
surprise. Mixed with crab eggs, fried tofu,
fried onion, roasted peanut, soy sauce,
fish sauce, vegetables and herbs, together
with fish patty, soft-stirred beef and pork
roll, the sweetness and richness of the taste
comes from the crab egg, which comes
from crabs living in the waters of paddy
fields in northern Vietnam. Besides the
mien, it is the essential ingredient of this
dish.
You have to select a good type of mien,
says Hanh, the eaterys owner. If it is not
made from cassava, it gets too starchy and
spoils the dish.
She adds: Ive run this shop ever since
my mother passed away, and the last 20
years we have been carefully picking the
fish from Ha Long to make the patty. I
make the patty myself and fry it early
every morning.
People say that mien tron is easy to
make. Theyre wrong. There are up to 11
ingredients in this dish. Each kind of sauce
must be used to a specific quantity and all

the vegetables and meat must be wellcooked. To get the rich and sweet taste,
you have to prepare the crab right after
youve bought it from the market. To get
the appealing smell, your onions must be
fried daily in advance. The beef must be
soft and tender. We have to prepare all the
ingredients so that theyre ready-to-eat.
Then the customer mixes them together.
Language Barriers
According to Hanh shes had a number of
interesting experiences with foreign diners.
The most common problem she encounters
is communication.
Many a time, foreigners come to my
eatery, she says. They find it hard to say
the name of things they like as we have so
many ingredients on the plate.
The day before I spoke to Hanh a foreign
man came in. He tried to explain that
he couldnt eat all of the vegetables, but
struggled to make himself understood.
They have trouble [expressing
themselves], but they still find the dish
delicious. It makes their experience with
my mien tron unforgettable.
The eatery is located at 7B Ly Quoc Su,
Hoan Kiem, Hanoi and is open from around
9am until 8.30pm. A serving of mien tron
ranges from VND25,000 to VND40,000
depending on whether you order meat, fish
patty, pork roll, beef or everything
fashion
FUTURA
Clothing
by
Romyda
Keth
Photos
by
Francis
Xavier
Check romydaketh.net and at GAYA

Modeling
(1
Nguyen
Van
Accessories
Trang
by
Q1,
Urban
by
Ariele
Gold
HCMC)
Chick
instagram.com/urbanchickvn
Blindingly white modernism dominates the soon-to-be-former

headquarters of that epicentre of Saigon chic, Gaya. In the
Saigon of today, this outpost of 1970s eclecticism, with
its concrete detailing shaped in the form of a fountain pen
nib, stands as a beacon of the city that once was.
Dress:
VND5,590,000
Earrings:
(same
as
VND230,000
first
page)
satierF
ssenisub
a saw eh
elbanu
.sdrocer
ypareht
xe ot yrt
Earrings:
VND130,000
Bracelet:
VND200,000
Lena
dress:
VND3,870,000
nogiaS eht ni dnA .nac ti

-bin nep siht ,yadot fo
fo
tsoptuo
dehsillebme
a ot tpada ot skees ti
ekam ot ,dlrow gnignahc
sa ni txetnoc sti fo esu
sa yaw a eurt dna tcerid
Earrings:
Ambition
dress:
VND200,000
VND3,999,000
sretrauqdaeh remrof-eb-ot-noos eht

,cihc nogiaS fo ertnecipe taht fo
gniht taerg eht staht tuB .ayaG
tpada ot skees ti msinredoM tuoba
Earrings:
VND180,000
Bracelet:
VND250,000
Liz
VND3,665,000
dress:
inredoM
oos eht
rauqdaeh
rtnecipe
aG ,cihc
aerg eht
sinredoM
ot tpada
oos eht setanwimod msinredoM etihw ylgn

tnecipe taht fo sretrauqdaeh remrof-eb
taerg eht staht tuB .ayaG ,cihc nogiaS
Necklace:
VND300,000
Earrings:
VND130,000
Daria
VND2,838,000
dress:
Earrings:
VND100,000
Pigalle dress:
VND3,548,000
Bucarest jacket: VND8,321,000
travel
TRAVEL
INTERNATIONAL
Teaching English
in Sudan
After a few years spent in the English-teaching game in Vietnam, Danny Armstrong
decided to take his talents to Sudan where he found a hard-scrabble people and a
land he would grow to love.
n April 2012, after five years teaching

English in Vietnam, the opportunity
to work in Khartoum the capital of
the northeast African country Sudan
presented itself. I accepted immediately,
and then the fear began.
Sudan where is it? Near Egypt, God
help me Darfur, genocide, George
Clooney keeps talking about the place,
Jihadists running around in funny clothes
with scraggy beards looking to behead

infidels like me. Even Osama Bin Laden
lived there in the early 1990s.
I boarded the flight there on Apr. 5, my
33rd birthday. The only positive thing I can
say about this journey was that it was paid
for by my employer in Khartoum.
After two 16-hour layovers now
entering the realm of mental illness I
started getting my first glimpses of the
Sudanese, a people I would come to grow

and love and respect with all my heart.
As the time drew nearer to boarding
the Istanbul to Khartoum leg of the trip,
two things struck me about my fellow
passengers.
First, there were absolutely huge
physically imposing men onboard, and
second, they all seemed to know each
other. Without exception, every person
Left: Sudan Bajarawiya (Jordan Sitkin)

Right: Sudan Old Dongola (Retlaw Snellac)
Main: Sudan Camels (Retlaw Snellac)
greeted, shook hands, offered Gods

peace or warmly embraced every other
person boarding that flight. This aspect of
Sudanese culture was something I came to
cherish, though I couldnt recognise it then.
It was 3am Khartoum time when I finally
landed and cleared customs and saw my
name being held by the promised driver.
Being driven through Khartoum for the first
time at 3am in a deranged mental state is raw
on the nerves. In this state, my taxi slowed
to turn the dirt red road corner where I was
to live for the first two weeks, and a pack of
stray dogs came leaping and yelping at the
taxi, fearless. I wound my window up just in
time. Visibly shaken, I turned to the driver
and robotically stated, Dogs.
Yes, he said. And tomorrow, people.
The look of horror on my face must have
been enough to make him decide to let me

off the hook, and he burst into a widesmiled laugh at my expense. I entered my
room, lay down, and cried.
A Hard Century
Sudan is suffering. There is no way to
escape this harsh reality. The country, which
was once the geographically largest in
Africa, was cut in half when South Sudan
gained independence in 2011 after years
of civil war which in simplified terms,
was a battle between the ethnically Arab
Muslim powerbase in Khartoum and the
Christian and Animist Africans of the south.
The country split, which the majority of
Sudanese I know mourn as a dark day in
history. South Sudan has since degenerated
into ethnic violence between the majority
Dinka group and the minority Nuer.

When South Sudan seceded the financial
ramifications for Khartoum were severe.
The major oil fields are in the south, yet
ironically the pipelines only run north
towards Port Sudan and the Red Sea. What
this really means is this hit the Sudanese
people hard in every way imaginable.
It is impossible to write about Sudan
and not discuss its President, Omar alBashir. He came to power in 1989 and
has remained in control ever since. He
immediately implemented Sharia Law and
to this day, Sudans government remains
a quasi-religious military dictatorship.
Khartoum is in all but name a military
compound masquerading as a city, due to
the fact the regime is currently involved in
three separate conflicts.
In Darfur, there is again ethnic conflict

between Arab and African the primary
difference between the previous conflict
being this time the Darfuris are Muslims
who just happen to be African. There
are also separate conflicts in the Nuba
Mountains and in Kordofan.
There is no question that genocide
occurred and is occurring in Darfur,
and that the world at large remains for
the most part ambivalent. To add to
the already massive list of problems
in a country ravaged by conflict and
corruption, Sudan is labouring under a
UN-imposed embargo. Sadly, the very
people it is meant to punish suffer nothing.
Average Sudanese citizens are the ones
who suffer the main effects.
Sudan has no access to Visa or
Mastercard cashpoints inside the country,
a harsh lesson I would come to learn when
I woke up broke, jetlagged, hungry and
completely disoriented. I went looking for
food on a Friday, the start of the Islamic
weekend, and the city was completely
deserted. Without another soul around, I
walked around in 48-degree heat looking
to withdraw money in cashpoints that
didnt exist for a sandwich I couldnt buy.
I went back to my room to begin plotting
my escape when the phone rang.
Learning the Ropes

It was my manager calling, and thus began
my two-and-a-half year teaching career
in Khartoum. Learning how to deal with
Sudanese students didnt take me long.
The first new thing I learnt about was the
different concept of time.
A 3pm class may start at 4pm, or it may
never start at all. People will filter in and
out, talking on phones, throughout the
entire duration of the class.
The first half-hour of the class is spent
on traditional greetings. Males extend their
right hand onto their left shoulder they
did the same for me. The women shake
hands with the men and give each other a
kind of high five, depending on their level
of religious devotion. No matter if this
class had seen each other the previous day,
this routine is repeated by all Sudanese at
all times. More amazingly, it happens in a
genuine manner.
The second thing I learnt is the Sudanese
love to talk as one student pointed out,
Its all we have. Once I had established
trust in the class, and was fairly sure who
my learners were, my students began to
talk about topics they were not free to
discuss outside. This was perhaps one of
my biggest joys, allowing the students to
express in a second language what they are
forbidden to in their mother tongue: topics
ranging from politics to sex to marriage.
A Questionable Learning
Environment
Khartoum is not easy on the eye. It is by
far the ugliest and dirtiest city I have ever
seen. The concept of waste disposal is
Top: Khartoum St Matthew's Cathedral (David Stanley)

Bottom: Khartoum Mosque (Jordan Sitkin)
ignored by the authorities, as is the idea

of maintaining buildings and upgrading
health facilities.
The government is terminally in a state
of conflict with its people. Sometimes it
takes action against perceived threats;
at other times, it cracks down on the
local populations protests. If you have
the audacity to publicly rally against
something as apolitical as the price of oil
which I witnessed in my first Sudanese
year you might be shot by the police,
in the street. Student friends of mine were

killed in this manner.
There is also the desert heat, from a
Sub-Saharan oven that transcends hot.
During the holy month of Ramadan, my
students, friends and colleagues would
fast in these conditions, not a drop of
water or a bite to eat from sunup until
sundown. Out of respect, many of my
foreign colleagues would fast as well. I
did too, to the extent that it was possible,
so as not to cause offense. But every now
Top: Sudan The Mahdi's Tomb (Retlaw Snellac)

Bottom left: Khartoum Children (David Stanley)
Bottom right: Khartoum Sufi Dervish (Mark Fischer)
The first half-hour of the class is spent on traditional greetings.

Males extend their right hand onto their left shoulder they did the
same for me. The women shake hands with the men and give each
other a kind of high five This routine is repeated by all Sudanese
at all times [and] it happens in a genuine manner
and then a student would say, Teacher, go
drink some water.
You will lose weight in Sudan, there is
no alcohol, its dirty and hot like no place
on earth, the regime is one of the most
oppressive on the planet and you will have
no running water in your home for months
at a time. So why go?
In my time in Sudan, I ate a camel, I
broke a fast during Ramadan believe
me, no drink ever tasted so sweet I
learned how to converse in Arabic, I even
managed to get hit by a bus and spend

the night in a Khartoum hospital with a
fractured leg.
But the real reason to go is summed up
in a quote about the Sudanese, If you put
100 of the nicest people in a room, 99 of
them will be Sudanese. And I can testify
that this is true. A friendlier group of
people, living the hardest lives imaginable,
surely does not exist anywhere else in the
world.
Shukran ya Sudan, Ma Salaam!
Getting There
Qatar Airways and Turkish Airlines
fly to Sudan via Doha and Istanbul
respectively. A return trip from Vietnam
will cost from US$1,255 and up.
Arranging visas takes between four
to six weeks. Tourists will need to get
sponsorship either from a friend or
relative, a travel agency or a hotel. For
more information go to sudan.net.
travel
TRAVEL
INTERNATIONAL
Give Vientiane
a Chance
Julie Vola explores the Laotian
capitals overlooked charms,
and finds them to be many
itting on a bed on a rickety night

train, I look through the window at
the last twilight strip of landscape I
can see before night falls. I wonder
what to expect from this trip. My editor
wants me to write about the capital of Laos,
but my travel companions just want to hop
on a bus out as soon as possible. It takes
some convincing for them to agree to spend
the night, and give Vientiane a chance.
The city doesnt have a great reputation.
In any discussion of travelling in Laos, most
will advise you to go directly to Luang
Prabang for the culture or Vang Vieng for
the party but I am up for the challenge of
finding what the city has to offer.
We arrive early the next morning and
walk through the streets perpendicular
to the Mekong. We feel the charm of the
city waking up. After a bit we find a cheap

guesthouse and a comfortable restaurant to
make plans.
Excursions
I want to go to the Buddha Park, 25km
outside the city. A tuk-tuk is a bit too
expensive for just two people, so we rent a
motorbike for the afternoon.
The way to the park is almost straight, and
quite an adventure once you are out of the
city limits. Half the road isnt paved, but its
fun to drive on the dirt rocky road. For my
bum, however...
The park is an amazing collection of
Hindu and Buddhist sculptures. The ornate
statues seem to be centuries old, but they
were actually built in the late 1950s by Luang
Pu (Venerable Grandfather) Bunleua Sulilat,
Most will advise you

to go directly to Luang
Prabang for the culture
or Vang Vieng for the
party but I am up
for the challenge of
finding what [Vientiane]
has to offer
There is a strange monument, the Patuxai, a victory

gate supposed to be a copy of Pariss Arc de Triomphe.
But, with the Laotian touch of mythological statues and
decorum, its quite different from the French original
a priest-shaman who integrated Hinduism
and Buddhism.
This mix makes for a weird experience.
I regret being so clear-minded that day, as
the park has an esoteric, dreamlike feel that
could benefit from an opener state of mind.
There is a giant head-like sculpture right at
the entrance you enter by the mouth and
climb for the spectacular view over the park.
It represents Hell, Earth and Heaven. Mind
your step and your head, because it doesnt
feel like the safest climb. The sculptures are
made out of concrete, and with the Laotian
weather they have a patina of time. There
are monsters, animals, demons, humans
and a giant reclining Buddha. I am like a
kid, taking photos and jumping from one

sculpture to the next.
On the way back I notice how much more
courteous driving in Laos is compared to
Vietnam. I find myself actually following
all the road rules and would not think of
taking a one-way street the wrong way.
Its refreshing to see cars and motorbikes
stopping and giving way at the intersections.
Back to the City

In the late afternoon there is a great market
on the riverside, and I am happy to see its
not just the same products present in other
touristy cities. The sky gets cloudy and
the temperature drops a bit, which makes
it the perfect weather for a nice evening

walk. The river itself is actually accessible,
you can see in some places people leaving
messages made out of bricks on the banks,
the equivalent of carving a tree or putting a
love lock on the Pont des Arts in Paris. It puts
a smile on my face.
While walking, we encounter an aerobics
class on one of the main squares along the
river. Its a large class, with at least three
different teachers and around a hundred
people doing the same movements. I am
starving, and we are about to settle for some
cute Laotian restaurant nearby when my
friend notices some tacky lights. Its not a bar
or a party as he hoped but a BBQ street, 10
times better in my opinion.

There are maybe around 30 different
places to choose from and they all seem to
have the same prices. Seafood, skewers of all
kinds of meat, mushrooms, vegetables. Its
delicious and eating great barbecue by the
river in the sunset is already worth the stay
in Vientiane. Thunder and very heavy rain
are the only reasons why we cut our dinner
short.
The Morning After

When I get up the sky is clouded, which
helps keep the temperature cool but limits
me with my Holga camera. I rent a bicycle
for 10,000 Kip (around VND25,000). Cycling
around is relaxing and easy, nothing is very
far and I get a good view of the city.
The guys I am with had just visited
Myanmar and were templed out but
I am not and am more than happy to visit
some beautiful and old temples. There is a
strange monument, the Patuxai, a victory
gate supposed to be a copy of Pariss Arc
de Triomphe. But, with the Laotian touch of

mythological statues and decorum, its quite
different from the French original. Here you
can climb up the steps to have a great view
over the city.
The next thing on my list is the COPE
Centre. COPE is an NGO that helps victims
of unexploded ordinances (UXO) by
providing care and support, largely by way
of orthotic and prosthetic devices. The free
exhibition is well presented and informative.
I get stuck, easily overwhelmed, looking at
the hanging display of prosthetic legs and
cluster bombs. I forget to take photos and I
linger on. When I finally leave I am greeted
with heavy rain.
I meet up with the guys, and we have
a coffee with a freshly baked French
baguette. As a French myself I will vouch for
Vientianes bakeries. They are just like home.
I regret having to leave so soon, this city is
relaxing and charming definitively worth
at least a few days after the madness of Vang
Vieng or the postcard-like Luang Prabang.
Getting There
If youre not going to fly the oneway fare from Hanoi or Ho Chi Minh
City to Vietnam is around US$200
(VND4.2 million) then try coming
from Bangkok by train. Its easy. The
overnight train journey to Nong Khai on
the border takes 11 to 12 hours. After
going through customs, you catch
a minibus to travel the last 13km to
Vientiane. The price of the final leg is
included in the train ticket.
Alternatively, you can travel via
24-hour bus journey on a sleeper from
Hanoi, for about VND550,000. Buses
leave nightly at 7pm from the central
bus station. There are also daily buses
running to Vientiane from Danang, Hue,
Ha Tinh and Vinh.
Check seat61.com for train details
and trip reports.
travel
TRAVEL
INTERNATIONAL
Airport Stories
(Tokyo Hanedas CIQ Info Plaza)

Set off the main corridor
in Tokyos Haneda Airport,
the CIQ Info Plaza
puts a nicer face on the
harsh realities of baggage
inspection. Ed Weinberg
passes his layover with the
cute little customs dog
whos always frowning
et on a corner near the security

check and on the way to the
Haneda Airport gate area toilets,
the CIQ Info Plaza is a decent place
to kill five minutes. With a friendly yet
watchful cartoon dog mascot, displays of
confiscated items, and an interactive clickscreen explaining the rationale behind their
prohibitions, Japans put more effort than
usual into putting a nice face on customs.
The first thing that catches my eye is
the display on intellectual property
with haphazardly displayed consumer
goods piled on top of each other, it stands
in sharp contrast to the engaging shop
displays elsewhere. On closer inspection, I
see theyre well-made fakes: Gucci glasses,
Levitra 20mg tablets, a North Face bag with
matching tags, a few of those fitted New
Era baseball caps with the shiny sticker
that used to be fashionable to leave on. At
the bottom, the stern-looking customs dog
holds up a hand.
The next display, on items prohibited for
other reasons, is a bit more exotic. Painted
ostrich eggs sit beside crocodile jerky, and
Dermatologist Tested caviar skin masks
warn beauty enthusiasts, Although caviar
is a food item, it is regulated due to being
the eggs of sturgeon.
On the clip art-ornamented info boards

above, the cartoon dog is starting to get
angry.
I watch the area for a few minutes.
Children on their way to the washroom
stop by the bright interactive display,
touching it until they end up on one of
the scrolling picture screens of specific
seizures. Once they clear out, I check the
lists.
There are wads of cash and pieces of
ivory. There are bags of cocaine lying next
to busted-open coconuts. Next to the nonobvious contraband, there are commonsense explanations, like that explaining
the prohibition on cattle jerky from the US
and Canada. Its been regulated since 2003,
when mad cow disease broke out in North
Americas cattle population.
I leave after a few minutes to get some
udon before my connecting flight. But Ive
learned something and even if its not
strictly useful knowledge I do appreciate
the gesture. From just a few minutes spent
in a random corner of a stopover airport,
Ive gotten the sense that Japans customs
department is out to help me, and wants
me to understand even if it does take
a little ankle biting by an overzealous
mascot.
travel
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AIRLINES
travel
AIR ASIA
DALAT / AROUND HANOI / HANOI - INTERNATIONAL / HANOI MID-RANGE / HANOI BUDGET /

HCMC - INTERNATIONAL / HCMC - DELUXE / HCMC - MID-RANGE / HCMC - BUDGET / HOI
AN & DANANG / HUE & LANG CO / NHA TRANG / PHAN THIET & MUI NE / PHONG NHA / PHU
QUOC / SAPA / VUNG TAU & HO TRAM / TRAVEL SERVICES HANOI / TRAVEL SERVICES ELSEWHERE
DALAT
ANA MANDARA VILLAS
$$$$
Le Lai, Dalat, Tel: (063)
3555888
anamandara-resort.com
DALAT PALACE
$$$$
12 Ho Tung Mau, Dalat, Tel:
(063) 382 5444
dalatpalace.vn
BHAYA CRUISES, HALONG BAY
$$$
Tel: 0933 446542
bhayacruises.com
Experience breathtaking
tours of the serene Halong
Bay, aboard reproduction
wooden junks. Two or three
night trips with a wide range
of cabin styles: standard, deluxe, or royal.
CUC PHUONG
$
Cuc Phuong, Nho Quan, Ninh
Binh, Tel: (030) 384 8006
cucphuongtourism.com
DALAT GREEN CITY HOTEL

172 Phan Dinh Phung, Dalat,
Tel: (063) 382 7999
dalatgreencityhotel.com
Located in central Dalat,
this is the perfect place for
budget travellers. Quiet,
newly refurbished with
beautiful mountain and city
views from the rooftop, features free Wi-Fi, a TV and
snack bar in all rooms with
a downstairs coffee shop
and computers in the lobby
for guest use.
EMERAUDE CLASSIC CRUISES,

HALONG BAY
$$$$
Tel: (04) 3935 1888
emeraude-cruises.com
Reproductions, of 19th
century paddle steamers,
trawl around Halong Bay
in colonial style. A classic
experience, complete with,
overnight accommodations
in impeccable cabins suites.
LA FERME DU COLVERT
$$
Cu Yen, Luong Son, Hoa Binh,
Tel: 02183 825662
etoile-des-mers.com
LA VIE VU LINH
$
Ngoi Tu Village, Vu Linh, Yen
Bai , Tel: (04) 3926 2743
lavievulinh.com
DALAT TRAIN VILLA

Villa 3, 1 Quang Trung, Dalat,
Tel: (063) 381 6365
dalattrainvilla.com
Located near the Dalat Train
Station, the Dalat Train Villa
is a beautifully restored, colonial era, two-storey villa.
In its grounds is a 1910
train carriage which has
been renovated into a bar
and cafe. Located within 10
minutes of most major attractions in Dalat.
TRUNG CANG HOTEL
$
22 Bui Thi Xuan, Dalat, Tel:
(063) 382 2663
AROUND HANOI
BEST WESTERN PEARL RIVER
HOTEL
$$$
KM 8 Pham Van Dong, Duong
Kinh, Hai Phong, Tel: (031)
388 0888
pearlriverhotel.vn
MAI CHAU LODGE
$$$
Mai Chau Town, Hoa Binh,
Tel: (0218) 386 8959
maichaulodge.com
NOVOTEL HA LONG BAY
$$
Ha Long Road, Bai Chay
Ward, Ha Long City, Quang
Ninh, Tel: (033) 384 8108
novotelhalong.com.vn
TAM COC GARDEN RESORT

Hai Nham, Ninh Hai, Hoa Lu,
Ninh Binh. Tel: (030) 249
2118
contact@tamcocgarden.
com
tamcocgarden.com
Surrounded by rice fields
and spectacular karsts,
Tam Coc Garden is a haven
of peace, an oasis of serenity and understated luxury.
Spacious rooms with rustic
and chic dcor, a pool with
breathtaking views, a beautiful garden, and panoramic
views over the fields and
mountains. The perfect place
to relax.
HANOI - INTERNATIONAL
plimentary Wi-Fi.
CROWNE PLAZA WEST INTERNATIONAL
HILTON GARDEN INN HANOI
$$$
36 Le Duc Tho, My Dinh Commune, Tu Liem, Hanoi, Tel:
(04) 6270 6688
crowneplazawesthanoi.com
This premier five-star
property lies beside the My
Dinh National Stadium and
Convention Centre. Boasts
two swimming pools, a spa,
and a fitness centre in its 24
stories.
DAEWOO HOTEL
360 Kim Ma, Ba Dinh, Tel:
(04) 3831 5555
www.hanoi-daewoohotel.
com
This enormous structure
offers the most modern of
amenities, and with four
restaurants and two bars,
the events staff is well
equipped to handle any occasion. Close to the National
Convention Center, and a
favourite of the business
traveller, Daewoo even
boasts an outdoor driving
range. Shortly to become a
Marriot property.
FORTUNA HOTEL HANOI

6B Lang Ha, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04)
3831 3333
www.fortuna.vn
This 350-room four-star set
up in the heart of Hanois financial district has a variety
of rooms on offer, a capital
lounge and three restaurants that serve Japanese,
Chinese and international
cuisine. And like youd expect, theres a fitness centre, night club and swimming pool, too, and even a
separate spa and treatment
facility for men and women.
Set to the west of town, Fortuna often offers business
deals on rooms and spaces
to hold meetings, presentations and celebrations.
HOTEL DE LOPERA
29 Trang Tien, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 6282 5555
contact@hoteldelopera.com
Resting just a step away
from the Opera House, the
hotel mixes colonial architectural accents and theatrical interior design to create a contemporary space.
The first boutique five star
in the heart of Hanoi, the
lavish, uniquely designed
107 rooms and suites contain all the mod cons and
are complimented by two
restaurants, a bar and com-
20 Phan Chu Trinh, Hoan

Kiem, Hanoi, Tel (04) 3944
9396
hanoi.hgi.com
With 86 fully-equipped
guestrooms and suites, this
is the first Hilton Garden
Inn property in Southeast
Asia. Centrally located and
a short stroll from the historic Old Quarter, the hotel
offers a full service restaurant, a stylish bar, along with
complimentary business and
fitness centres making it
perfect for the international
business or leisure traveller.
HILTON HANOI OPERA

1 Le Thanh Tong, Hoan Kiem,
Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3933 0500
hanoi.hilton.com
Situated next to the iconic Hanoi Opera House and a short
stroll from the Old Quarter,
this five-star hotel is a Hanoi
landmark. With 269 fullyequipped rooms and suites,
theres plenty for the discerning business and leisure
traveller to choose from.
INTERCONTINENTAL HANOI
WESTLAKE
1A Nghi Tam, Tay Ho, Tel: (04)
6270 8888
www.hanoi.intercontinental.
com
This stunning property built
over West Lake falls in between a hotel and a resort.
Beautiful views, great balcony areas, comfortable,
top-end accommodation and
all the mod-cons make up the
mix here together with the
resorts three in-house restaurants and the Sunset Bar,
a watering hole located on a
thoroughfare over the lake.
Great gym and health club.
JW MARRIOTT HANOI
8, Do Duc Duc, Me Tri, Tu
Liem, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3833
5588
jwmarriotthanoi.com
From the expressive architecture outside to the
authentic signature JW
Marriott services inside,
this Marriott hotel in Hanoi
is the new definition of contemporary luxury. Lies next
door to the National Convention Centre.
MAY DE VILLE OLD QUARTER

43/45/47 Gia Ngu, Hoan
Kiem, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3933
5688
maydeville.com
The largest four-star hotel

in Hanois Old Quarter, 110
rooms, a swimming pool, a
top floor terrace bar and a
location just a stones throw
from Hoan Kiem Lake make
this a great choice for anyone wanting a bit of luxury in
the heart of the action.
MELIA HANOI
44B Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3934 3343
www.meliahanoi.com
Excellently located in central
Hanoi, Melia Hanoi draws
plenty of business travellers and is also a popular
venue for conferences and
wedding receptions. Stateof-the-art rooms, elegant
restaurants, stylish bars,
fully equipped fitness centre with sophisticated service always make in-house
guests satisfied.
MVENPICK HOTEL HANOI

83A Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3822 2800
www.moevenpick-hanoi.
com
With its distinctive French
architecture and top end
service, Mvenpick Hotel
Hanoi is aimed squarely at
corporate travellers. An allday restaurant and a lounge
bar are available to satiate
their clientele while the kinetic gym and wellness studio offer an excellent range
of equipment. Massage and
sauna facilities are available for guests seeking to
rejuvenate. Of the 154 wellappointed rooms and suites,
93 are non-smoking.
PULLMAN HOTEL
$$$$
40 Cat Linh, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04)
3733 0808
pullman-hanoi.com
With deluxe rooms and
suites, a contemporary
lobby, an excellent buffet,
and a la carte restaurant,
this Accor group property
is prestigious and close to
the Old Quarter.
SHERATON
K5 Nghi Tam, 11 Xuan Dieu,
Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 9000
www.sheraton.com/hanoi
Surrounded by lush gardens, sweeping lawns and
tranquil courtyards, this
peaceful property features
picturesque views of West
Lake and is less than 10
minutes from downtown.
In addition to the luxurious rooms, the hotel offers
an outdoor swimming pool
www.airasia.com
AIR FRANCE
130 Dong Khoi, Q1
Tel: 3825 8583
www.airfrance.com.vn
AIR MEKONG
1st Floor, Centre Point
Building, 106 Nguyen Van
Troi, Phu Nhuan
Tel: (08) 3846 3999
www.airmekong.com.vn
AMERICAN AIRLINES
194 Nguyen Thi Minh
Khai, Q3. Tel: 3933 0330
www.aa.com
CATHAY PACIFIC
5th Floor, Centec Tower,
72-74 Nguyen Thi Minh
Khai, Q3
Tel: 3822 3203
www.cathaypacific.com/
vn
CHINA AIRLINES
37 Ton Duc Thang, Q1
Tel: 3911 1591
www.china-airlines.com
JAPAN AIRLINES
3rd Floor, Sheraton Hotel,
88 Dong Khoi, Q1
Tel: 3821 9098
www.vn.jal.com
JETSTAR PACIFIC
www.jetstar.com/vn
KOREAN AIR
34 Le Duan, Q1
Tel: 3824 2878
www.koreanair.com
LAO AIRLINES
93 Pasteur, Q1
Tel: 3822 6990
www.laoairlines.com
MALAYSIA AIRLINES
Ground Floor, Saigon
Trade Centre, 37 Ton Duc
Thang, Q1
Tel: 3829 2529
www.malaysiaairlines.
com
SINGAPORE AIRLINES
Saigon Tower Bulding,
Room 101, 29 Le Duan, Q1
Tel: 3823 1588
www.singaporeair.com
THAI AIRWAYS
29 Le Duan, Q1
Tel: 3822 3365
www.thaiairways.com.vn
TIGER AIRWAYS
www.tigerair.com
VIETJETAIR
www.vietjetair.com
VIETNAM AIRLINES
27B Dinh Tien Hoang, Q1
Tel: 3832 0320
www.vietnamairlines.com
travel
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let us see what we can do. Email us at listings@wordvietnam.com
and great relaxation and
fitness facilities, including a
tennis court and spa. There
are well equipped conference rooms and a newly
refurbished Executive Club
Lounge.
SOFITEL LEGEND METROPOLE

HANOI
15 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3826 6919
www.sofitel.com
The finest hotel of the French
colonial period is probably
still the finest in todays Hanoi. Anyone who is (or was)
anyone has stayed at this elegant oasis of charm, where
the service is impeccable
and the luxurious facilities
complement the ambiance of
a bygone era. Definitely the
place to put the Comtessa up
for a night.
SOFITEL PLAZA HANOI

1 Thanh Nien Road, Ba Dinh,
Tel: (04) 3823 8888
Boasting Hanois best views
of West Lake, Truc Bach Lake
and the Red River, Sofitel
Plaza Hanoi soars 20 storeys above the city skyline.
The 5-star hotel features
317 luxurious, comfortable
guestrooms with spectacular lake view or river view
ranking in 7 types from Classic Room to Imperial Suite.
HANOI MID-RANGE
6 ON SIXTEEN
16 Bao Khanh, Hoan Kiem
www.sixonsixteen.com
Another boutique hotel to
grace Hanois Old Quarter,
the six rooms here mix contemporary and fresh with
handicrafts and antique.
Breakfast is included and in
the long, lounge restaurant
on the second floor, homestyle Vietnamese fare is
served up with fresh fruit
juices and Lavazza coffee.
GOLDEN SILK BOUTIQUE HOTEL
$$$
109-111 Hang Gai, Hoan
Kiem, Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3928
6969
goldensilkhotel.com
Located in the centre of the
Old Quarter, this little slice of
heaven offers complimentary sundries and a replenishable minibar. The Orient
restaurant, serves the finest
in international and Vietnamese cuisine.
MAISON DHANOI HANOVA HOTEL
$$$
35-37 Hang Trong, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3938 0999
hanovahotel.com
A minute from Hoan Kiem
Lake, this glowing pearl in
the heart of Hanoi provides
tranquility with an art gallery
and piano bar.
MAY DE VILLE
24 Han Thuyen, Hai Ba
Trung, Tel: (04) 2222 9988
Set in the old French Quarter
a short walk from the Opera
House, May de Ville City Centre is a welcome new addition to the capital. Combining
contemporary architecture
with traditional Vietnamese
style and materials, this elegant property has 81 wellappointed rooms including
four suites.
HANOI BUDGET
HANOI BACKBACKERS HOSTEL
48 Ngo Huyen, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3828 5372
www.hanoibackpackershostel.com
Probably the cheapest, European-style hostel in town,
with bunk-style beds mixed
or single-sex dorms starting at VND150,000, plus
a couple of double suites
from VND250,000. A place
to meet like-minded fold in
the Old Quarter.
HCMC - INTERNATIONAL
CARAVELLE HOTEL
$$$$
19 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3823 4999
caravellehotel.com
Winner of Robb Reports
2006 list of the worlds top
100 luxury hotels, the Caravelle houses the popular
rooftop Saigon Saigon bar,
and the restaurants Nineteen and Reflections.
DUXTON HOTEL
$$$
63 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08)
3822 2999
saigon.duxtonhotels.com
Famous for its daylong
rotatingmenu buffets, the
Duxton deserves luxury appellation with a pool, gym,
spa, and fine dining.
limousine services.
INTERCONTINENTAL ASIANA
SAIGON
$$$$$
Hai Ba Trung and Le Duan,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3520 9999
intercontinental.com/saigon
In the heart of Ho Chi Minh
City, resides the Asiana with
signature dining options,
an innovative cocktail bar,
exclusive spa and health
club, together with luxury
boutique arcade.
LOTTE LEGEND HOTEL SAIGON
$$$$
2A4A Ton Duc Thang, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3823 3333
legendsaigon.com
Immaculate architecture,
spacious rooms, and a fine
selection of fine dining, with
buffets specialising in Americana and Pan-Asian cuisine.
NEW WORLD HOTEL
$$$$
76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822
8888
Former guests include U.S.
presidents two Bushes,
Clinton and K-Pop sensation Bi Rain. An ongoing event
as well as a hotel, New World
is one of the best luxury
stops in town.
PARK HYATT
$$$$$
2 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3824 1234
saigon.park.hyatt.com
Fabulous in style, prime in
location, everything one
would expect from the Hyatt.
The Square One and Italianthemed Opera restaurants
have garnered an excellent
reputation, as has the landscaped pool.
$$$
242 Tran Binh Trong, Q5, Tel:
(08) 3839 7777
equatorial.com/hcm
This massive property
boasts seven dining and
entertainment outlets, a
business centre, meeting
rooms and a comprehensive fitness centre and spa.
The Equatorial also has an
on-site casino.
HOTEL NIKKO SAIGON
REX HOTEL
$$$$$
235 Nguyen Van Cu, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3925 7777
hotelnikkosaigon.com.vn
The five-star hotel and serviced apartment complex
offers: 14 instant offices,
seven meeting rooms, a
600-capacity ballroom, spa,
outdoor swimming pool, a
gym, 24-hour fine dining,
24-hours room service, and
53 Vo Truong Toan, Q2, Tel:

(08) 3744 4111
riverside-apartments.com
Situated on the banks of the
Saigon River, a 15-minute
scenic boat ride or 20-minute bus ride from town,
Riversides complementary
shuttle services take you
right in the city centre. With
152 fully equipped serviced
apartments, the property
offers special packages for
short-term stay starting at
VND2.1 million per apartment per night for a onebedroom facility.
RIVERSIDE HOTEL
$$$$$
1819-20 Ton Duc Thang,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 1417
riversidehotelsg.com
This distinct French architectural wonder offers
complimentary Wi-Fi, airport
pickup or drop off, a 4th floor
ballroom, and authentic Vietnamese cuisine at the River
Restaurant.
SHERATON
a live music venue on the

same floor.
SOFITEL SAIGON PLAZA
$$$$
17 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08)
3824 1555
sofitel.com
This 20story building in
downtown Saigon, caters
to upscale business and
leisure travelers seeking a
classic yet contemporary
stay in Saigon.
WINDSOR PLAZA
$$$
18 An Duong Vuong, Q5, Tel:
(08) 3833 6688
windsorplazahotel.com
The full ensemble with its
own shopping hub (including
a bank), fine dining, a sauna,
health club, and superb
panoramic views of the cityscape. Also hosts the largest
Oktoberfest in the region.
HCMC - DELUXE
CONTINENTAL
$$$$$
88 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08)
3827 2828
sheraton.com/saigon
Sheraton boasts one of
the best locations in town,
with firstclass facilities,
an openair restaurant 23
floors above the city and
$$$
132-134 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3829 9201
continentalhotel.com.vn
This charming old hotel has
been fted in literature and
in film. In the heart of Saigon,
this is the first choice to highlight Vietnamese culture.
HOTEL MAJESTIC
$$$
3829 5517
majesticsaigon.com.vn
NORFOLK HOTEL
$$$
117 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3829 5368
norfolkhotel.com.vn
Intimate atmosphere and excellent service, this boutique
business hotel is located
minutes from famous landmarks, designer shops, and
is renowned for its fabulous
steaks at its in-house restaurant, Corso.
NOVOTEL SAIGON CENTRE
$$$
167 Hai Ba Trung, Q3, Tel:
(08) 3822 4866
novotel-saigon-centre.com
Novotel Saigon Centre has
a contemporary feel, an
international buffet The
Square a rooftop bar, and
a wellness centre including a
swimming pool, gym, sauna
and spa.
STAR CITY SAIGON HOTEL
$$$
144 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu
Nhuan, Tel: (08) 3999 8888
starcitysaigon.vn
The newly-built hotel is near
Tan Son Nhat International
Airport. With spectacular
Josephs Hotel
Foreign-run,boutique hotel
Next to the cathedral
PULLMAN SAIGON CENTRE
$$$$$
148 Tran Hung Dao, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3838 8686
pullmanhotels.com
Recently completed on the
site of the old Metropole,
this upscale, contemporary
property boasts 306 signature rooms combining
design, comfort and connectivity. Innovative cuisine,
a great downtown location
and high-tech meeting venues able to host up to 600
guests make up the mix.
EQUATORIAL
RIVERSIDE APARTMENTS
$$$$
3829 2185
rexhotelvietnam.com
Brimming with history the
Rexs openair fifthfloor
bar is Saigon highlight. A recent renovation, of this now
five-star property, boasts
designer fashion and a shopping arcade.
Free wi-fi, international breakfast,

spacious and airy, lift, plasma TV,
multi-shower, friendly service
www.josephshotel.com
5, Au Trieu, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi | Phone: 04 3938 1048 | Mob: 0913 090 446
travel
city views and a comfortablydesigned outdoor swimming
pool, there is little reason not
to choose this shining star.
HCMC - MID-RANGE
ROYAL HOTEL SAIGON
$$
3822 5914
kimdohotel.com
EMM HOTEL
157 Pasteur, Q3
A sleek, contemporary
three-star hotel that mixes
vintage appeal and modern
chic thanks to a subdued
palette of white and grey
around two pop colours:
azalea pink and green hot
pepper. Part of the Thien
Minh Group that includes
Victoria Hotels and Buffalo
Tours.
LAN LAN HOTEL 1 AND 2
$$$
46 and 73-75 Thu Khoa
Huan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822
7926
lanlanhotel.com.vn
THAO DIEN VILLAGE
$$
195 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2,
Tel: (08) 3744 2222
thaodienvillage.com
A colonialstyle hotel and
spa offers fine Italian, Thai
and Japanese dining. Manicured gardens and a view
that overlook the bank of
the Saigon River, this is truly
someplace special.
THE ALCOVE LIBRARY HOTEL
$$$
133A Nguyen Dinh Chinh,
Phu Nhuan, Tel: 08 6256
9966
alcovehotel.com.vn
HCMC - BUDGET
DUC VUONG HOTEL
$
195 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08)
3920 6992
ducvuonghotel.com
Free WiFi offered in every
room. Low prices, friendly
staff, clean rooms. This modern oasis is only a few steps
from the backpackers area.
DUNA HOTEL
$
167 Pham Ngu Lao Q1, Tel:
(08) 3837 3699
dunahotel.com
HONG HOA HOTEL
$
185/28 Pham Ngu Lao, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3836 1915
honghoavn.com
SINH HUONG HOTEL
$
157 Nguyen Du Q1, Tel: (08)
3827 4648
sinhhuonghotel.com.vn
Looking for something? Missed a previous issue? Find it all online at www.wordvietnam.com. Only a click away.
HOI AN & DANANG

AN BANG BEACH RETREAT
An Bang Beach, Hoi An
www.anbangbeachretreat.
com
CUA DAI
$
544, Cua Dai, Hoi An, Tel:
(0510) 386 2231
hotelcuadai-hoian.com/
DANANG BEACH RESORT
$$$
Truong Sa, Hoa Hai, Ngu
Hanh Son, Danang, Tel:
(0511) 396 1800
danangbeachresort.com.vn
FURAMA RESORT AND SPA
$$$$
Vo Nguyen Giap, Khue My,
Ngu Hanh Son, Danang, Tel:
(0511) 384 7888
furamavietnam.com
HYATT REGENCY DANANG RESORT AND SPA
$$$$
Hoa Hai, Ngu Hanh Son, Da
Nang, Tel: (0511) 398 1234
danang.regency.hyatt.com
The Hyatt Regency Danang
Resort and Spa is beachfront
with a stunning view of the
Marble Mountains. There
are 182 luxurious residences and 27 private ocean villas, each with a private pool.
LE DOMAINE DE TAM HAI
$$$
Tam Hai Island, Thon 4, Nui
Thanh, Quang Nam, Tel:
(0510) 354 5105
domainedetamhai.com
LIFE RESORT HOI AN
$$$
1 Pham Hong Thai, Hoi An,
Tel: (0510) 391 4555
life-resorts.com
MERCURE DANANG
$$$
Lot A1 Zone Green Island,
Hoa Cuong Bac, Hai Chau,
Danang, Tel: (0511) 379
7777
mercure-danang.com
PULLMAN DANANG BEACH RESORT
$$$$
Vo Nguyen Giap, Khue My,
Ngu Hanh Son, Danang, Tel:
(0511) 395 8888
pullman-danang.com
Located on the white sands
of Bac My An beach close
to both Danang and Hoi An,
the welcoming and modern
Pullman Danang Beach Resort is an oasis of activities
and facilities for a dynamic
escape. Perfect for a family
holiday or a romantic beach
getaway.
THE NAM HAI
$$$$
Hamlet 1, Dien Duong Village,
Quang Nam, Tel: (0510) 394
0000
ghmhotels.com
Includes three massive
swimming pools, a gourmet restaurant and elegant

spa on a lotus pond. Each
massive room has its own
espresso machine, pre
programmed iPod and both
indoor and outdoor showers.
VICTORIA HOI AN BEACH RESORT

AND SPA
Cua Dai Beach, Tel: (0510)
392 7040
victoriahotels.asia
HUE & LANG CO

ANGSANA LANG CO
$$$$
Cu Du Village, Loc Vinh Commune, Phu Loc, Thua Thien
Hue, Tel: (054) 369 5800
angsana.com/en/lang_co
Located on Vietnams South
Central Coast, Angsana Lang
Co commands an unrivalled
beach frontage of the shimmering East Sea. Traditional
Vietnamese design encompasses the resorts contemporary buildings and chic
interiors.
BANYAN TREE LANG CO
$$$$
Cu Du Village, Loc Vinh Commune, Phu Loc, Thua Thien,
Hue, Tel: (054) 369 5888
banyantree.com/en/
lang_co
Built on a crescent bay, The
Banyan Tree offers privacy
and unparalleled exclusivity
with all-pool villas reflecting
the cultural and historical
legacy of past Vietnamese
dynastic periods.
LA RESIDENCE
$$$$
5 Le Loi, Hue, Tel: (054) 383
7475
laresidencehue.com
PHUONG HOANG HOTEL
$
66 Le Loi, Hue, Tel: (054) 382
6736
hoangphuonghotel.com
NHA TRANG
EVASON ANA MANDARA AND SIX
SENSES SPA
$$$$
Beachside Tran Phu, Nha
Trang, Khanh Hoa, Tel: (058)
352 2222
sixsenses.com/evasonresorts/ana-mandara/
destination
2.6 hectares of private
beachside gardens and
villastyle accommodation
furnished in traditional native woods, this resort offers verandah dining, a pool
bar and the signature Six
Senses Spa.
JUNGLE BEACH RESORT
$
Ninh Phuoc, Ninh Hoa, Khanh
Hoa, Tel: (058) 362 2384
junglebeachvietnam.com
On a secluded promontory north of Nha Trang, this
budget place is all about
hammocks, the sea, the jungle and nature.
MIA RESORT NHA TRANG
$$$$
Bai Dong, Cam Hai Dong,
Cam Lam, Khanh Hoa, Tel:
(058) 398 9666
mianhatrang.com
NOVOTEL NHA TRANG
$$$
50 Tran Phu, Nha Trang, Tel:
(058) 625 6900
novotel-nhatrang.com
This four-star hotel with
154 guestrooms, all with
a terrace and sea view.
Complete with a pool, spa,
restaurant, bar and meeting room that caters for up
to 200 delegates.
SIX SENSES HIDEAWAY NINH

VAN BAY
$$$$
Ninh Van Bay, Ninh Hoa,
Khanh Hoa, Tel: (058) 372
8222
sixsenses.com/resorts/
ninh-van-bay/destination
The upmarket Tatler magazine voted top hotel of 2006.
The location is stunning, on a
bay accessible only by boat.
SHERATON NHA TRANG HOTEL

AND SPA
$$$$
26 28 Tran Phu, Tel: (058)
388 0000
sheraton.com/nhatrang
SUNRISE BEACH HOTEL AND SPA
$$$
1214 Tran Phu, Nha Trang,
Tel: (058) 382 0999
sunrisenhatrang.com.vn
WHALE ISLAND RESORT
$$
Tel: (058) 384 0501
whaleislandresort.com
PHAN THIET & MUI NE

ALLEZ BOO BEACH RESORT AND
SPA
$$$$
8 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Mui
Ne, Phan Thiet, Tel: (062)
374 3777
allezboo.com
This resort offers exotic
Balistyle, thatched roof
honeymoon villas, 55 spacious suites, deluxe rooms,
fresh seafood, Vietnamese
cuisine, Thai and international cuisine, kite surfing
and parasailing.
BLUE OCEAN RESORT
$$$$
384 7322
blueoceanresort.com.vn
life-resorts.com
COCO BEACH
$$$$
384 7111
cocobeach.net
With charming wooden
bungalows, a private beach,
a swimming pool (both with
attached bars) and a French
restaurant, Coco Beach continues to be run by those who
opened it in 1995.
MIA RESORT MUI NE
$$$
Ne, Tel: (062) 384 7440
miamuine.com
PRINCESS DANNAM RESORT

AND SPA
$$$$
Khu Hon Lan, Xa Tan Thanh,
Ham Thuan Nam, Binh Thuan, Tel: (062) 368 2222
princessannam.com
VICTORIA PHAN THIET RESORT

AND SPA
$$$$
Mui Ne Beach, Phan Thiet,
Tel: (062) 381 3000
victoriahotels.asia
Another beachfront Victoria
chain, the thatchedroof
bungalows and family villas
are set in exotic gardens
with an infinity swimming
pool, a seafood restaurant, spa, beauty salon and
jacuzzi.
PHONG NHA
EASY TIGER AND JUNGLE BAR
$
Son Trach, Bo Trach, Quang
Binh, Tel: (052) 367 7844
easytigerphongnha@gmail.
com
A hostel and street-front bar
all in one. Has a pleasant,
airy atmosphere in the bar
and restaurant area while
the 52 dorm beds four
beds to a room go for
US$8 (VND168,000) each a
night.
HO KHANH'S HOMESTAY
$$
Binh, Tel: 01299 597182
phong-nha-homestay.com
PEPPER HOUSE
$
Tel: 01678 731560
pepperhouse-homestay.com
PHONG NHA FARMSTAY
$$
Hoa Son, Cu Nam, Bo Trach,
Quang Binh, Tel: (052) 367
5135
phong-nha-cave.com
The first western-run farmstay in Phong Nha, this wellappointed travellers joint
has a great bar and restaurant area, a swimming pool
out back and views overlooking paddy fields and
mountains. Rooms start at
VND600,000 for a twin or
double, with a family room

for five costing VND1.4 million a night.
PHONG NHA LAKE RESORT
$$
Khuong Ha, Hung Trach, Bo
Trach, Quang Binh, Tel: (052)
367 5999
phongnhalakehouse.com
SAIGON - PHONG NHA
$$$
Binh, Tel: (052) 367 7016
sgphongnhahotel@yahoo.
com.vn
PHU QUOC
BEACH CLUB RESORT
$$
Ap Cua Lap, Xa Duong To,
Long Beach, Phu Quoc Island, Tel: (077) 398 0998
beachclubvietnam.com
A quaint and popular island
guesthouse featuring a
beachside restaurant, and
includes free Wi-Fi. Motorbike rental, boat trips and
tours are easily arranged.
Discount rates during rainy
season.
CHEN SEA RESORT AND SPA
$$$$
Bai Xep, Ong Lang, Cua
Duong, Phu Quoc, Kien Giang,
Tel: (077) 399 5895
centarahotelsresorts.com
MANGO BAY
$$
Ong Lang Beach, Phu Quoc,
Tel: 0903 382207
mangobayphuquoc.com
An ecofriendly approach
with a gorgeous beachside
location, the bungalows are
made of rammed earth, no
TVs or telephones (although
Wi-Fi is available). Excellent
sunsets from the beach bar.
SAPA
CAT CAT VIEW HOTEL
$$
Cat Cat Road, Tel: 0203
871946
catcathotel.com
The best view in town from its
bar restaurant, the Cat Cat
Guesthouse is paradise at
very reasonable rates. The
rooms have big windows,
balconies, and log fireplaces.
TOPAS ECOLODGE
$$$
Thanh Kim, Sapa, Lao Cai
Tel: (04) 3715 1005 (Sales)
topasecolodge.com
With its panoramic views of
the surrounding mountains
and valley, Topas Ecolodge
is the perfect place to experience the remoteness and
quiet of the Northern Vietnamese mountains the
landscape, the fresh air and
the ethnic peoples. Guests
stay in private bungalows
travel
with dinner served in a local
stilt house restaurant.
cling and motorbike tours.
REX HOTEL
TOPAS ECOLODGE
$$
24 Muong Hoa, Sapa, Tel:
0203 872404
topasecolodge.com
For the environmentally
conscientious, 25 individual
lodges rest on hills overlooking valleys. Employing solar
technology and a wastewater facility, the Topas also
organises treks and bicycle
tours.
VICTORIA SAPA
$$$
Tel: 0203 871522
victoriahotels.asia
VUNG TAU & HO TRAM

BINH AN VILLAGE
$$$$
1 Tran Phu, Vung Tau, Tel:
(064) 335 1553
binhanvillage.com
CON DAO RESORT
$$
Nguyen Duc Thuan, Con
Dao, Vung Tau, Tel: (064)
383 0939
condaoresort.vn
HO TRAM BEACH RESORT AND

SPA
$$$$
Tel: (064) 378 1525
hotramresort.com
This attractive property is
the ideal getaway from Ho
Chi Minh City. 63 uniquely
bungalows and villas promise a local experience complete with an excellent spa
and two swimming pools.
HO TRAM SANCTUARY
$$$$
Ho Tram, Ba Ria-Vung Tau,
Tel: (064) 378 1631
sanctuary.com.vn
The spacious villas come
with their own pool and have
direct access to the beach.
Extras include tennis courts,
a mini supermarket, and cy-
$$
1 Le Quy Don, Vung Tau, Tel:
(064) 385 2135
rexhotelvungtau.com
SIX SENSES CON DAO
$$$$
Dat Doc Beach, Ba Ria-Vung
Tau, Tel: (064) 383 1222
sixsenses.com/SixSensesConDao
THE GRAND-HO TRAM STRIP

Phuoc Thuan Commune,
Xuyen Moc, Ba Ria-Vung
Tau, Tel: (064) 378 8888
thegrandhotramstrip.com
The Grand - Ho Tram Strip
is Vietnams first large
scale integrated resort and
ultimately will include a
1,100-room five-star hotel,
a world-class casino, restaurants, high-tech meeting
space, an exclusive VIP area,
as well as a variety of beachfront recreation activities.
The first 541-room tower
of this development opened
in July 2013 with its casino
including 90 live tables and
614 electronic game positions. The second 559-room
tower is on track to open in
2015.
TRAVEL SERVICES HANOI
corporate travel plans while

offering a selected range of
small group tours.
EXOTISSIMO
66A Tran Hung Dao, Hanoi,
Tel: (04) 3828 2150
www.exotissimo.com
A one-stop, all-in-one travel
agency with an extensive
operational track record in
the Indochina region and
beyond. Providing up-market
services, Exotissimo brings
their clients close to culture
through personalised tours.
Also find travel desks at the
Hilton, Sofitel Plaza and Intercontinental hotels, which
are open on weekends and
holidays.
HANDSPAN TRAVEL
78 Ma May, Hanoi, Tel: (04)
3926 2828
www.handspan.com
Established in 1997, Handspan provides customers
with safe, high quality, diverse, small-group adventure tours to both popular
and isolated locations in
Vietnam, Laos and Cambodia. Has a focus on off-thebeaten-track sustainable
and responsible tourism
initiatives. Also provides to
excursions to more wellworn destinations.
BUFFALO TOURS AGENCY (BTA)

94 Ma May, Hoan Kiem Dist.,
Ha Noi, Tel: (04) 3828 0702
travelagency.hn@buffalotours.com
www.buffalotours.com.vn
A boutique Travel Agency at
the service of all Vietnamese
and expatriate residents
in Vietnam offering easy,
hassle-free travel around
the world and in Vietnam,
with the highest standards
of customer care. This
premium Travel Agency
has been created to help
travelers select their destinations and organize their
trips, take care of the timeconsuming procedures and
ensure that all journeys are
enjoyable and successful.
BTA customizes leisure and
Indochina Land is a French

local travel agency for
expatriates and tourists
who want to see northern
Vietnam in a personal and
tailored way. Think small
knowledgeable teams of
Vietnamese and French
who share their passion for
discovery during varied itineraries, usually focused on
freedom, family, health trips
and classic home stays. They
will show you around Ha Giang, too.
INTREPID TRAVEL VIETNAM

57A Nguyen Khac Hieu, Ba
Dinh, Tel: 0904 193308
www.intrepidtravel.com/
vietnamsales
Intrepid Travel Vietnam is
an international travel company operating in Vietnam
since 1992, offering innovative day tours, short breaks
and small group adventures.
With expert guides and guaranteed departures, Intrepid
focuses on real life experiences in Ho Chi Minh City,
Hanoi, Mekong Delta, Halong
Bay, Sapa and beyond to get
you up close to Vietnams
people, cuisine, history and
culture.
SYRENA CRUISES
51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel:
(04) 3719 7214
www.syrenacruises.com
If youre thirsty for a Halong Bay experience while
enjoying luxury comfort,
Syrena Cruises could be the
quencher youre looking for.
Forget drinking games and
backpackers by relaxing on
one of the two wooden boats
from the fleet. Alone, as a
couple or with a group, 34
luxurious cabins and suites
are all ready for action. All
you have to do is decide on
how long you want to holiday for.
TRAVEL SERVICES ELSEWHERE

BEENINASIA.COM
www.beeninasia.com
info@beeninasia.com
Online travel in Southeast
Asia. Offers you selection of
best hotels and great tours.
Create your own trip or we
can tailor make your itinerary.
BUFFALO TOURS AGENCY

70-72 Ba Trieu, Hoan Kiem,
Hanoi, Tel: (04) 3828 0702;
157 Pasteur, Q3, Ho Chi
Minh City, Tel: (08) 3827
9170
www.buffalotours.com
This premium travel agency
helps travelers select their
destinations and organize
their trips. From corporate
travel to small group tours,

explore the world or Vietnam.
EXOTISSIMO
41, Thao Dien, Q2. Tel (08)
3519 4111, Ext. 15/17/19
exotissimo.com
A reliable and experienced
travel company operating
through Southeast Asia,
Exotissimo brings you personalized tours across the
region, many including insights into culinary customs,
handicrafts and humanitarian initiatives.
CHUDU24 HOTEL BOOKING

SERVICE
12th floor, 242 Cong Quynh,
District 1, HCMC
Call center: 1900 5454 40
www.en.chudu24.com
info.en@chudu24.com
Chudu24.com - the locally
famous Vietnam hotel booking website now has an English version. The company is
known for having the best
prices and reliable service.
If you are looking for great
local deals and insightful advice then visit Chudu24.com.
It has been the #1 Vietnam
hotel booking service for Vietnamese people since 2008.
HG TRAVEL
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3944 8844
www.hgtravel.com
Travel company specialising
in small-group tours around
Vietnam and further afield in
Indochina. Is also the sole
representative agent for
Kenya Airways (for 40 cities
in Africa www.kenya-airways.com), American Airlines
(www.aa.com) and Turkish
Airlines (www.thy.com).
www.cocobeach.net
paradise@cocobeach.net
INDOCHINA LAND
61 Cua Bac, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04)
3715 2852
www.indochina-land.com
Coco Beach Resort
58 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, W. Ham Tien

Phan Thiet, Vietnam
+84-(0)62-3847111 / 2 / 3
travel
TRAVEL PROMOS
FLIGHT TRAVEL COMPANY

(08) 3824 7744
flightravelco.com
Flight travel services, including global travel management, domestic and international air booking and travel
insurance, to corporate
companies, family and individual travelers.
PROMOTIONS OF THE MONTH
FLY VIETNAM
flyvietnam.com
INTREPID TRAVEL VIETNAM

149/42 Le Thi Rieng, Q1, Tel:
0904 193308
intrepidtravel.com/vietnamsales
MANTA SAIL TRAINING CENTRE

108 Huynh Thuc Khang, Mui
Ne, Tel: 0908 400108
mantasailing.org
TERRAVERDE
12/20 Nguyen Canh Di,
Ward 4, Tan Binh District,
Tel: (08) 3984 4754
terraverdetravel.com
If you like cycling through
the Mekong Delta, trekking
in the highlands, or lazing in
a junk on Ha Long Bay all
while making a difference in
peoples lives then this
company will suit you well.
The Banyan Tree in Lang Co, just north of Danang
TU TRAVEL
60 Hai Ba Trung, Can Tho
City, Tel: 0713 752436
tutrangtravel-mekongfeeling.vn
VIETNAM VESPA ADVENTURE

169A De Tham, Q1, Tel:
01222 993585
vietnamvespaadventure.
com
Vespa Adventure offers
multiday tours of southern
and coastal Vietnam on the
back of a luxury motorbike
powered by clean, renewable biodiesel. Englishspeaking tour guides lead
the way.
Dalat Highland Retreat

@ Ana Mandara Villas Dalat
anamandara-resort.com
As if the deal Ana Mandaras
been running all summer wasnt
enough, theyre now taking an
extra 10 percent off their Highland
Retreat Package. Deduct that from
the already generous VND2.69
million per night, and add daily
breakfast, yoga classes, and a setmenu dinner or a daily 60-minute
spa treatment for two. Theres a
minimum two-night stay, but we
doubt youd want it any other way.
A Fifth Star for Danang
Do you think you should be

listed on these pages? If so,
simply email us on
listings@wordvietnam.com
and well see what we can
do. We cant promise but
well try our best
@ Novotel Danang Premier Han River

novotel-danang-premier.com
Its been a little over a year since
Novotel Danang started towering
it over the scene, and the Vietnam
National Administration of
Tourism has noticed awarding
the hotel with a five-star rating
on Jul. 30. Located at the top of
the Bach Dang Promenade, the
advantages of 36 floors become
obvious in the rooftop sky bar
and accompanying pool. And,
from now through Dec. 31, the
Five-Star Celebration Package will
showcase all that and more like

daily breakfast and a choice of
one other meal. Check it out from
VND2.338,740 per night or
invite a friend for VND532,500++
extra.
Locals Go To Lang Co
@ Banyan Tree, Angsana
banyantree.com, angsana.com
This National Day and the whole
month after, Vietnams first
integrated resort is serving up
the savings, in the finest seaside
trappings the central coast has to
offer. Stay a minimum of three
nights in Banyan Trees lagoon
pool villas at a reduced rate
starting at VND6.3 million++ per
night, and get a one-time Do It
Yourself BBQ to really feel at home.
Or try Angsanas three-night deal
starting at VND3 million++ per
night, with a complimentary set
dinner. These specials are good
now through mid-December for
Vietnamese residents.
Honeymoon in Nha Trang

@ Sunrise Nha Trang
sunrisenhatrang.com.vn
If your new mate likes colonial
elegance by the seaside, you

can do worse than Sunrise Nha
Trangs Honeymoon Indulgence
Package a three-day, two-night
getaway that includes daily
breakfast, a candlelight dinner,
a 60-minute couples massage,
sparkling wine and chocolate
in your room, and a special
honeymoon cake. Valid through
Dec. 20, the package weighs in at
VND6.9 million++.
Year-End Gatherings
@ InterContinental Asiana Saigon
icasianasaigon.com
Where else should you take
your team than the World Travel
Awards Leading Conference Hotel
2013, Leading Business Hotel 2013
and Leading Hotel 2013 for the
whole country? Until Feb. 28,
the InterCon is rewarding you
for making the right choice with
incentives like welcome cocktails
and VIP rooms, conference
backdrops and hotel rooms with
Saigon as backdrop. Contact
trannguyenthuy.tram@ihg.com to
figure out how you can add even
more to one of Saigons premiere
MICE destinations.
Hanoi
RECALLING HANOI // COFFEE CUP // FOOD PROMOS // THE ALCHEMIST // THE THERAPIST //
MEDICAL BUFF // BOOK BUFF
PHOTO BY DAVID HARRIS
hanoi
old quarter
BARS & CLUBS / CAFES / CLOTHING & ACCESSORIES / CRAFTS & FURNITURE / EAT / FITNESS & YOGA /
GROCERIES & LIQUOR / HAIRDRESSERS & SALONS
BARS & CLUBS

CHEEKY QUARTER
LATE NIGHT LOCAL

1 Ta Hien, Hoan Kiem, Tel:
01679 647254
8pm to late
Last building on the right
before Hang Buom, this
popular with the French
(and everyone else) watering hole is a classic. Has
the same Old Quarter vibe;
small, cosy and personal
with funky twists and an
awesome logo. Spread over
two floors with good tunes,
drinks specials and a foosball table, Cheeky is open till
late. Also does tasty paninis
into the early hours.
DRAGONFLY
DANCEHALL LOUNGE
15 Hang Buom, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 4926 2177
11am to late
One of the better venues in
the Old Quarter for dancing
on the weekends. Although
crammed into a small space,
cheap drinks and a mix of
chart chits makes Dragonfly
the regular go-to for younger Vietnamese crowds, tourists and the foreign resident
looking to get up on the
dance floor. If you dont feel
like dancing, relax upstairs
with shisha and friends with
one of the two lounges on
the second floor. The sister
venue on Phung Hung has a
bigger menu and an earlier
opening hour (11am instead
of 6pm) but still keeps with
the shisha, pool table and
dance floor combo so popular on Hang Buom.
FATCAT BAR
DJ / LATE NIGHT JOINT

0986 495211
linkhanoi.com
4pm to late
Straddling Bia Hoi Corner
and the cobblestoned end
of Ta Hien, FatCat Bar is a
small establishment from the
minds behind the party and
event organisers, LinkHanoi.
The bar has tables filling the
first floor and spilling onto
the sidewalk as well as a
small loft area for lounging.
Nightly cocktail specials,
reasonable bottles deals
starting at VND500,000 and
a DJ on the decks make up
the mix.
FUNKY BUDDHA
ELECTRO LOUNGE
(04) 3292 7614
8pm to late
HAIR OF THE DOG
LATE NIGHT LOCAL / LOUNGE

32 Ma May, Hoan Kiem, Tel:
0947 893232
10am to late
HALF MAN HALF NOODLE
LATE DIVE BAR

62 Dao Duy Tu, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3926 1943
3pm to late
IRISH WOLFHOUND
IRISH PUB
4 Luong Ngoc Quyen, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 2212 6821
irishwolfhoundpub.com
8am to 2am
The open-air watering hole
with seating on the pavement
is a great spot to enjoy a tall
dark stout or light pilsner at
anytime, day or night. What it
lacks in gaudy decorations,
it makes up for with a constant stream of regulars, occasional live Irish music and
billiards on the third floor.
Has a decent food menu and
even better pizzas.
LA BOMBA LATINA
LATIN BAR
46 Ngo Huyen, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: 0917 245155
LE PUB
BRITISH / INTERNATIONAL
RESTOBAR
25 Hang Be, Hoan Kiem, Tel:
(04) 3926 2104
7am to midnight
Dark red walls and even
darker brown seating run
through the homely and
casual Le Pub, one of the few
bars in town with a regular
stream of clientele. A long
list of imported beer, Tiger
draft, a decent international
cum Vietnamese food menu,
happy hour specials and live
sport make up the comfortable mix. The venue also gets
involved in the local community through regular events.
MAOS RED LOUNGE
LATE-NIGHT GRUNGE BAR

(04) 3926 3104
MOJITO BAR
CONTEMPORARY COCKTAIL BAR

19 Nguyen Quang Bich, Hoan
Kiem
facebook.com/mojito.bar.
lounge
Decked out in wooden pan-
elling and bare brick, this

tastefully designed watering
whole in the Old Quarter is
known for its prize-winning
bartender and excellent
cocktails
verted, colonial-era villa, the

concept of the third Joma is
the same as at its two other
cafes - fair-trade coffee, payas-you-order at the counter,
and a great selection of
sandwiches, bagels, salads,
cakes, ice-cream and tea.
smoking downstairs space

is filled with people working
and socialising. Serves as
community centre, catering
both to ravenous backpackers whove just arrived off
the night train from Sapa and
locals looking to meet up.
JOMA BAKERY CAFE
THE CART
POLITE PUB
LONG BAR
5 Bao Khanh, Hoan Kiem, Tel:
(04) 3825 0959
5pm to 2am
A bit musty and jaded, despite being one of the oldest
pubs in the city, this staple
watering hole on Bao Khanh
continues to be a hit. Probably the closest thing Hanoi
has to an authentic Englishstyle pub, Polite is frequented by a steady mix of locals
and expats who find solace
in the nightly conversations
at the long bar, billiards and
live football matches.
ROCKSTORE
LIVE MUSIC BAR
01653 336087
Hanoi's home-made, homegrown version of Hard Rock
Cafe without the stigma and
the expensive prices. Nightly
live music or DJing events
are coupled with creative
decor, a selection of Belgian
Beer and a food menu.
SPY BAR
HOLE IN THE WALL / IRISH

12A Nguyen Huu Huan, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: 0932 373802
TEMPLE BAR
NIGHTCLUB / LATE-NIGHT BAR

Tel: (04) 6675 7908
TET BAR
LATE-NIGHT BAR
2a Ta Hien, Hoan Kiem, Tel:
(04) 3926 3050
THE SPOT
LOUNGE BAR / TERRACE

(04) 3935 1874
8am to midnight
CAFES
CAFE PHO CO
COFFEE SHOP WITH A VIEW

Back of 11 Hang Gai, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3928 8153
JOMA
INTERNATIONAL CAFE
28 Tong Duy Tan, Hoan Kiem
joma.biz
Housed in a two-storey con-
COFFEE/BAKERY
222 Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3747 3388
joma.biz
7am to 9pm
With two branches, Joma
has brought a little slice
of home to Hanoi for expatriates with a contemporary western feel to the
counter-style service and
atmosphere. The food is
all there too: breakfasts,
salads, soups, ice cream,
muffins, cakes, cereals and
bagels. Starting in Laos in
1996, Joma moved to Hanoi
in 2009. Joma contributes
2 percent of each sale to
charitable organisations.
KINH DO
PATISSERIE / SIMPLE CAFE

252 Hang Bong, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3825 0216
7am to 8pm
MOCA CAFE
CAFE / INTERNATIONAL
14-16 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem.
(04) 3825 6334
8am to 10pm
Set in a deliciously attractive slightly run down colonial villa, the tourist friendly
location gives Moca a large
amount of guidebook-driven
clientele. But dont let this put
you off. The faded but charmingly run down Frenchstyled retro interior, good
WiFi and some of the best
coffee in town makes this
a great spot to while away
a couple of hours. The food
menu mixes Vietnamese fare
with sandwiches, western
and pan-Asian mains.
PUKU
INTERNATIONAL / CAFE
16-18 Tong Duy Tan, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3938 1745
Open 24 hours
This spacious spot on food
street is open around the
clock, offering Aussie-inspired comfort food along
with more eclectic Irish
nachos, cottage pies and
pan-Asian fare. Upstairs
is fit for social gatherings
and live music while the no-
SANDWICH SHOP / CAF

10 Tho Xuong, Tel: (04) 3938
2513
thecartfood.com
7.30am to 5pm
Small a cozy caf hidden
on the quietest of Hanoian
streets. Serves and delivers
tasty baguettes, homemade
juices, quiches, pies, muffins and cakes. The delivery
service is quick and reliable,
which makes this lunchtime
favourite ideal for when you
need to eat at the desk.
THE HANOI SOCIAL CLUB
CAF / CONTEMPORARY EATERY

6 Hoi Vu, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04)
3938 2117
8am to 11pm
Situated on one of the quieter Old Quarter streets
just off Hang Bong, The
Hanoi Social Club is a cozy
midsize caf/restaurant
where you can forget the
heat and bustle of Hanoi.
The atmosphere is relaxed
and you can imagine, for a
second, that youre sitting in
a European caf. The food
is fresh and internationally
inspired, and the design is
complimented by the work
of Tadiotos Nguyen Qui Duc.
To top it off, the coffee here is
said to be up there with the
best in the country.
CLOTHING & ACCESSORIES

BOO SKATESHOP
SKATESHOP
84 Hang Dieu, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3923 1147
Booskateshop.com
CONTRABAND
CONTEMPORARY WESTERNSTYLE
23 Nha Chung, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3928 9891
Launched in Hanoi in 2007,
Contraband targets young
hip working women. Garments are made from versatile fabrics that are comfortable to wear and easy to look
after making them ideal for
work and travel. New styles
are introduced each month
with limited production runs,

offering a sense of exclusivity.
LATELIER
WOMENS WEAR & ACCESSORIES

21 Nha Chung, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3938 2419
ateliervietnam.com
The downtown store of this
well-known chic boutique.
Stocks womens wear,
leather bags, shoes and
handicrafts. Offers both
ready-to-wear and madeto-fit clothing.
METISEKO
ECO-CHIC / LIFESTYLE
71 Hang Gai, Hoan Kiem.
metiseko.com
A lifestyle brand that started
out life in Hoi An, Metisekos
move to the capital has seen
them bring us their creative, poetic prints designed
for an eco-chic lifestyle. The
products clothing, accessories and furniture are
made from natural silk and
organic cotton certified to
global organic standards.
Metiseko is also certified
by the fair-trade, Textile Exchange.
THINGS OF SUBSTANCE
AUSTRALIAN-STYLE UNISEX
5 Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem, Tel:
(04) 3828 6965
This shops motto Western
sizes, Vietnamese prices,
says it all. While mostly retailing womens separates
in soft cotton jersey and
linen, the store also carries a range of accessories
like embroidered canvas
totes and printed tees. Has
a good selection of unique
mens shirts.
THREE TREES
JEWELLERY
(04) 3928 8725
CRAFTS & FURNITURE

MEKONG QUILTS
HANDMADE / CHARITABLE
QUILTS
58 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3824 4607; 13 Hang
Bac, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04)
3926 4831
Mekong-quilts.org
Community development
non-profit quilt shop featuring handmade quilts and accessories. Styles vary from
traditional to patterned and
hanoi
Asian-inspired. Founded in
2001 and with outposts in
several locations around
the region, the shop employs women in rural areas,
enabling them to make an
income and care for their
families.
METISEKO
ECO-CHIC
71 Hang Gai, Hoan Kiem, Tel:
(04) 3935 2645
metiseko.com
A lifestyle brand that started
out life in Hoi An, Metisekos
move to the capital will see
them bring us their creative, poetic prints designed
for an eco-chic lifestyle. The
products clothing, accessories and furniture are
made from natural silk and
organic cotton certified to
global organic standards.
Metiseko is also certified
by the fair-trade, Textile Exchange.
EAT
AL FRESCOS
AUSTRALIAN / INTERNATIONAL
24 Quang An, Tay Ho, Tel: (04)
3938 1155
alfrescogroup.com
8.30am to 11pm
CAFE DE PARIS
FRENCH BISTRO
12 Luong Ngoc Quyen, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3926 1327
cafedeparis-hanoi.com
8am to 11pm
Thanks to its original tiled
floor, cast iron backed
chairs and wall-hung black
and white photography,
there is something decidedly
charming about this tiny Parisian-styled bistro and bar.
Serving up a simple menu
of snacks such as quiche
Lorraine, Paris beurre and
croque monsieur, there is
also a selection of classic
but unpretentious French
mains. Has a daily specials
board and a decent range
of pizzas.
FOODSHOP 45
INTERNATIONAL INDIAN
Tel: (04) 3993 1399
10am to 10.30pm
A slither of a joint serving
up the same fare that the
lakeside Foodshop 45 location in Truc Bach has become famous for. Selling an
international version of the
mighty curry they even
sell pork and beef here the
menu keeps to the northern
part of the subcontinent with
masala, dopiaza, korma and
the more Goan vindaloo taking centre stage. Also has a
good range of breads and
tandoor-cooked kebabs.
GREEN MANGO
WESTERN / VIETNAMESE
18 Hang Quat, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3928 9916
greenmango.vn
7.30am to 11.30pm
GREEN TANGERINE
FRENCH / VIETNAMESE FUSION

(04) 3825 1286
greentangerinehanoi.com
10am to 11pm daily
A leafy, cobblestone courtyard with dark green castiron backed chairs greets
you as you walk into this
French era-built villa that
houses the main section of
this Indochina-styled restaurant. Serving up an enticing
mix of classic and contemporary French cuisine,
blended in with Vietnamese
ingredients and cooking
styles, the resultant fare
has had customers coming
back again and again. A traditional Vietnamese and kids
menu is also available, as is a
wine list focusing mainly on
French wines.
HIGHWAY 4
VIETNAMESE / ETHNIC
5 Hang Tre, Hoan Kiem, Tel:
(04) 3926 4200; 25 Bat Su,
Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04) 3926
0639
10am to midnight
LITTLE INDIA
INDIAN / MALAY / CHINESE

32 Hang Tre, Hoan Kiem, Tel:
(04) 3926 1859
littleindianhn@gmail.com
LA RESTAURANT
VIETNAMESE / INTERNATIONAL
25 Ly Quoc Su, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3928 8933
8am to 10pm
The complimentary warm
bread with rosemary is
reason enough to visit this
homely spot featuring hearty
lentil and black bean soups,
along with a range of international and Vietnamese options like New Zealand beef
tenderloin or tofu with chilli
and mushrooms. We arent
quite sure why the Miele
Guide nominated it as one of
Asias finest restaurants as
service is lackadaisical and
tables could use candles to
improve the lackluster ambience, but the immaculately
tasty dishes more than make
up for any quips.
LA SALSA
IBERIAN / MEDITERANEAN
(04) 3828 9052
8am to 11pm
A small but eternally popular Spanish-themed caf
and bar with an extensive
list of reliable cuisine. Tapas
are available, as well as full
courses such as veal, and
duck with currant sauce.
Known for its good, European-style coffee and first-
floor terrace area with views

over the cathedral. Has a
second garden restaurant
on Xuan Dieu.
LITTLE HANOI
21-23 Hang Gai, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3828 8333
7.30am to 11pm
MEDITERRANEO
PAN-ITALIAN
(04) 3826 6288
10am to 11pm
This long-running, cozy restaurant near the cathedral
serves all the traditional
Italian fare you could need
homemade mozzarella
and fresh pasta, spinach
and ricotta ravioli, cold cut
boards, soups, salads and
fish. Throw in an extensive
wine list, a traditional wood
fire oven and a balcony spot
looking over Hanois trendy
caf scene and youre onto
a winner.
MILLENIUM
PAN-FRENCH
11B Ngo Bao Khanh, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3828 7207
10.30am to 2.30pm, 6pm to
10pm
Clean and fresh with a finedining vibe, the Millennium
restaurant is the minimal
and chic result of a Caf Des
Arts makeover. The streets
new go-to for a high standard of eating and drinking
goes over two floors and
has a welcome and inviting
three-level outdoor terrace
high up amid the concrete
and cables of the Old Quarter.
NAMASTE HANOI
PAN-INDIAN
46 Tho Nhuom, Hanoi, Tel:
(04) 3935 2400
namastehanoi.com
11am to 2.30pm, 6pm to
10.30pm
The latest newcomer to the
Indian restaurants family, Namaste specializes in
dishes from both northern
and southern India using Halal meat throughout. A meal will cost you
between VND150,000 and
VND300,000 and everything
is there, from curries and
breads to soups and desserts. Available to dine in or
out with a free delivery.
OLD HANOI
GOURMET VIETNAMESE
4 Ton That Thiep, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3747 8337
10am-2pm, 5pm-10pm
Gordon Ramsay once filmed
a show at this restaurant in
a renovated French villa and
now the ribs carry his namesake. But its the twist on old
world favourites, think fried
snail spring rolls and min-
iature vegetarian banh xeo,

in a casually elegant setting
that make this spot near
the train tracks standout.
Be sure to try the roll-yourown cha ca spring rolls and
check the schedule for live
traditional music.
etarian pho, Ma-Po tofu

and Thai glass noodle salad,
along with some falafel and
western influences. Vegetarians and carnivores alike will
find something to try on this
menu.
THE LOFT STOP CAF

PROVECHO
TEX-MEX / BURGERS / INTERNATIONAL

0912 223966
The successor of My Burger
My, this American-run, selfstyled burger bar and restaurant fits a lot into a tiny,
multi-storey space. Specializing in tasty, American-style,
chargrilled burgers from
around VND50,000 with a
range of additional toppings
including jalapeno peppers,
smoked bacon, mushrooms,
cheddar cheese and avocado, the creative menu also
has a good range of Tex-Mex
fare, a number of pan-Asian
dishes and a decent delivery
service.
SOUTHGATE
CONTEMPORARY INTERNATIONAL
28 Tong Duy Tan, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3938 1979
southgatehanoi.com
THE KAFE
CONTEMPORARY CAFE / CUISINE

18 Dien Bien Phu, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3747 6245
thekafe.vn
Spacious, casual, energetic
and beautifully designed, The
KAfe serves up unfussy comfort food that aims to satisfy
the modern urban diner.
Preparing fresh food and
drinks that show respect to
natural ingredients and flavours from around the globe,
this caf-cum-restaurant is
a popular choice for Hanois
metrosexual community.
THE MOOSE AND ROO
CANADIAN / AUSTRALIAN RESTAURANT

42B Ma May, Hoan Kiem,
Tel:(04) 3200 1289
Contemporary Australian
and Canadian comfort food
in a pleasant setting together with a nice bar area.
Best known for their Scotch
egg, poutine and burgers.
Clever changing imagery on
the walls.
TAMARIND
CONTEMPORARY VEGETARIAN
(04) 3926 0580
5.30am to 10.30pm
Perhaps the only restaurant
in Hanoi to cater to vegetarians that doesnt focus on
faux meat. Features a wide
range of juices and shakes
in a crunchy granola backpacker atmosphere. Has
Asian favourites like veg-
FRENCH BRASSERIE/ VIETNAMESE SPECIALITIES

11B Ngo Bao Khanh, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3828 7207
8am to 11pm
SPICE
CONTEMPORARY INDIAN RESTAURANT

(04) 3926 0580
TANDOOR
PAN-INDIAN
(04) 3824 5359
11am to 10.30pm
A long-popular, Indianfood enclave specialising
in Northern Indian cuisine.
Has an indoor and upstairs,
white tablecloth aircon
area with a more casual
dining and bar space out
front. Does excellent kebabs
served from an authentic
tandoor oven as well as the
full range of mainly North
Indian curries. Also has a
branch in Saigon and does
excellent set lunches.
ZENITH YOGA STUDIO II & CAF
16 Duong Thanh, Hoan Kiem,

Tel: (04) 3923 0253
FITNESS & YOGA

STUDIO FIVE
YOGA & WELLNESS

5th Fl, 135 Bui Thi Xuan,
Hai Ba Trung. Tel: (04)
6263.1515
http://studio5.vn
facebook.com/yogastudio5
6am to 8pm
An international and professional Yoga Studio providing
more than 20 different yoga
styles such as: Hatha Yoga,
Yoga Therapy, Ball Yoga,
Props Yoga, Hot Yoga (with
infrared heater), Power Yoga
and much more, with a flexible schedule of 10 classes
per day. Bring harmony
back into your life Studio
Five is the perfect place to
reconnect your mind with
your body.
ZENITH YOGA
YOGA & MEDITATION

247 Au Co, Tay Ho; 16 Duong
Thanh, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04)
3923 0253
An international Yoga studio
providing classes across a
variety of levels and styles,
including prenatal and postnatal classes, restorative
yoga, pilates and tai chi. Also
have a yogic shop offering incense, yoga and pilates mats,
books, clothes, soaps, Himalayan products and other essential yoga equipment.
GROCERIES & LIQUOR

BACCHUS CORNER
WINE RETAILER
1C Tong Dan, Hoan Kiem, Tel:
(04) 3935 1393
Part of the Tan Khoa chain,
the largest liquor and wine
distributor in the country,
the walls here are lined with
a decent selection of wines,
pleasantly arrayed and back
lit. Besides their selection of
new and old world wines
Helpful staff and free delivery.
THE WAREHOUSE
WINE RETAILER
59 Hang Trong, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3928 7666
warehouse-asia.com
The Warehouse is Vietnams
ultimate premium wine importer, distributor, and retailer, representing many of
the greatest wines from the
best wine-growing regions
on the planet. The portfolio
mixes the best of both old
and new world wines.
HAIRDRESSERS & SALONS

DINH HAIR SALON
HAIR SALON
2A Cua Bac, Ba Dinh, Tel:
0987 718899
SUPERMARKETS
BIG C SUPERMARKET
222 Tran Duy Hung, Cau
Giay
CITIMART HANOI TOWERS

49 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan
Kiem
CITIMART VINCOM TOWERS

191 Ba Trieu, Hai Ba
Trung
FIVIMART
210 Tran Quang Khai,
Hoan Kiem
10 Tran Vu, Ba Dinh
671 Hong Hoa Tham,
Ba Dinh
71 Nguyen Chi Thanh,
Dong Da
51 Xun Dieu, Tay Ho
93 Lo Duc, Hai Ba Trung
Online shopping: www.
fivimart.com.vn
HANOI STAR SUPERMARKET

36 Cat Linh, Dong Da
INTIMEX
22 & 23 Le Thai To, Hoan
Kiem
131-135 Hao Nam, Dong
Da
17 Lac Trung, Hai Ba
Trung
27 Huynh Thuc Khang,
Dong Da
METRO
126 Tam Trinh, Yen So,
Hoang Mai
Pham Van Dong, Co Nhue,
Tu Liem
RECALLING HANOI
PART FIVE
andscape is entangled with history

and peoples lives. No matter
how young we are or what social
position we have, we all have
stories to tell.
The book I am working on, Recalling
Hanoi, is my vision of Hanoi, a tapestry
weaved out of portraits, peoples stories
and the urban landscape that hosts them.

I ask people living in the city to tell
me about a place in Hanoi that holds
memories. It can be about anything a
personal story intertwined with history; a
great event; everyday little stories that our
lives are made of. These stories, along with
the photographs of the storyteller and the
location provide depth.

Through this collection I am attempting
to create an intimate, multi-layered portrait
of this city through its collective memory.
The hope is that the audience will connect
to other peoples lives and also to their
own memories in an attempt to understand
this beautiful city.
closest friends.
Brent and I first became friends
because we were both American, both
liked punk music, and both wanted to
start a band. The band didnt happen but
we started a DJ duo and called ourselves
Hanoi Panic. Luan said we could DJ
on Saturday nights at Noodle and he
would pay us in beer and food. It was
really great, the music was good, and
the atmosphere we created was different
from anywhere else in the city. People
were always requesting songs. Brent and
I really did not like requests because

most of the time the songs sucked.
One night a Vietnamese guy requested
a horrible metal ballad. We decided to
play it and the atmosphere dropped
immediately, it went from high to low in
a second. Luan came up to us and said,
No more requests. You guys do what
you do best. No. More. Requests.
Noodle is gone now it has been
replaced by a restaurant but I can
still see the ghosts of my crazy friends
laughing and dancing on the bar.
Mon Ovatharsan
No Requests
Location: Half Man Half Noodle, 62 Dao Duy
Tu, Hoan Kiem
When I first moved to Hanoi, I felt like
a fish out of water. Id left a big group
of friends behind in Philly and started
a brand-new life in Hanoi. I didnt have
much of a social life until I found the
Half Man Half Noodle bar in the Old
Quarter. When I first started going, it was
a dark bar with lots of expats and a few
Vietnamese people. The manager Luan
spoke English and embraced me like an
old friend. It was great. The Noodle is
where I met most of the craziest people
in Hanoi who also happen to be my
hanoi
BY JULIE VOLA
Le Tuan Ha
Haut les Mains
Location: Truc Bach Lake
During the war I was in the civilian forces
that protected the city and I worked in a
factory on Thuy Khue. On Oct. 26, 1967
it looked like it was going to be a typical
day. I went to work for my 8am shift and
had a two-hour lunch break during which
I went home as normal. Then I heard the
city alarm start telling us an air strike was
underway. I headed to the block shelter. I
heard an explosion and looked outside to
investigate. A plane was coming down over
Truc Bach Lake and the pilots parachute
was in the air.
I ran out of the shelter screaming,
Theres a pilot! I went to my house to

get a knife in case the pilot had weapons.
I dived into the lake. When I got to the
pilot I grabbed his hair and put his head
on a bamboo floating rack. I didnt speak
English so I screamed at him in French,
Haut les mains! I put my knife against his
face, he didnt put up a fight. He was still
attached to his parachute, which was very
heavy, so people helped me drag him to
shore. We pulled him out of the water.
John McCain was very lucky to go down
near a police station. No harm would come
to him there. If he had fallen into the city he
could have been badly beaten.

The police took him away and handed
him to the National Defence Force. I went
home, finished lunch and returned to work.
The day after it happened it was all over
the newspapers and journalists wanted to
interview me. When John McCain ran for
President of the United States the story
resurfaced and I was interviewed again. I
dont mind. I like sharing the story.
This is the fifth excerpt from Julie Volas
work, Recalling Hanoi. The work is presently
being serialised in Word. For more information
email juls.vola@gmail.com
hanoi
COFFEE CUP
COSA NOSTRA
ts been a big year for cafes in Hanoi,

with high-end operators turning out
in force to tantalise the taste buds of
Vietnams style-conscious professionals.
This month, we followed the well-heeled
crowd to the epicenter of this upscale cafe
revolution Hoan Kiem District.
With the opening of Starbucks last
month, a Highlands located nearby and
respected hangout Tadioto next door, Cosa
Nostra has carved a stylish niche among a
fierce batch of competitors.
Location has been a key ingredient
behind this success. The venue oozes
prestige with high-hitting neighbours like
the American Ambassador, The Press Club
and the Sofitel Metropole.
The location also boasts picturesque
views of Co Tan Flower Garden, which acts
as an effective sound buffer from the chaotic

traffic of the Opera House roundabout.
Inside, patrons relax in trendy
chesterfield couches complemented by
designer lampshades and dark timber
furniture. Polished stainless steel air ducts
and abstract wooden sculptures also
hang from 12-foot high ceilings, while the
buildings pastel yellow foundations add a
rustic element to the design.
Caffeine lovers can expect a decent
selection of coffees, including a passable
cappuccino (VND49,000) and caphe sua da
(VND35,000). While the latte (VND49,000)
was a bit on the milky side, the catchy
beats and trendy ambiance were more than
enough to make me stay.
Somewhat bewilderingly, takeaway
coffee is not offered here, which may divert
the lunchtime coffee runs to the nearby
franchises. This may also be a con for
customers (like myself) who are put off by
the occasional clouds of cigarette smoke
wafting across the room.
Bottles and Good Eats

The caf is as much an after-work cocktail
and shisha venue as it is a coffee-hangout
a clever strategy that has been employed

by many trend-savvy caf owners in
Vietnam. A centralised bar is stocked with
top-shelf spirits used to make a handsome
selection of cocktails.
The cost of hard liquor might make the
frugal-minded a little hot under the collar, but
the selection is immense. Those fancying a
snifter of scotch may even be tempted by the
18-year-old Glenlivet (VND3,350,000) or even
some Royal Salute at a cheeky VND4,450,000
a bottle. But if weather permits, head upstairs
to the shaded terrace to enjoy some sun and
sangria (VND499,000 per jug).
Cosa Nostra also serves up a
comprehensive selection of in-house dining
options. Local fare is well represented and
reasonably priced, with offerings ranging
from the southern noodle speciality bun thit
nuong (VND49,000) to banh mi op la (baguette
with pate) for VND40,000. Bar snacks range
from humble cold cuts (VND149,000) to
fried chicken (VND89,000), while more
substantial splurges, like spaghetti bolognese
(VND105,000) and foie gras (VND390,000),
are also available. David Mann
Cosa Nostra is at 24 Tong Dan, Hoan Kiem,
Hanoi
hanoi
HANOI INTERNATIONAL THEATRE
SOCIETY (HITS)
hoan kiem
THEATRE GROUP
hitshanoi.com
LESPACE
BARS & NIGHTCLUBS / CAFES / CINEMAS / CLUBS & SOCIETIES / EAT
PARIS DELI
B i
Triu
Hng
Hu
Phan
Chu
Trin
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Q u
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Hng
Phng
H n g G
Hng iu
Hng
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Qun
Nguy
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Trn
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MODEL CLUB
CATWALK BAR
45 Hang Bai, Hai Ba Trung
8pm to late
PHUC TAN
LATE-NIGHT GRUNGE BAR

51, To 4A Phuc Tan, Hoan
Kiem
RELAX BAR
HOSTESS / LIVE MUSIC BAR

26 Tran Hung Dao, Hoan
Kiem
ROOFTOP
SKYLINE LOUNGE
19th Floor, Pacific Place, 83B
Ly Thuong Kiet, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3946 1901
8am to midnight
TADIOTO LOUNGE BAR AND CAFE
ARTS BAR / EVENT SPACE

24B Tong Dan, Hoan Kiem
tadioto.com
Located close to the Opera
House, this alternative, arty
bar is garnished in red and
white on the outside, with
warm brown and tones of
blue on the inside. Creating an atmosphere merging
Shanghai and San Francisco,
engaging contemporary artwork lines the walls at the
latest incarnation of this wellknown and well-loved space.
ZONE 17
CAF / BOULANGERIE
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3934 5269
7.30am to 11pm
Time has been good to this
airy, bistro-style caf and
patisserie opposite the Opera House. One of the original international-style establishments to hit the capital,
despite its prime location
prices remain reasonable
espresso-style coffees cost
around VND40,000 and
the cakes and croissants
are moreish. Also does filled
baguettes and a larger cafcum-restaurant menu. Has a
second establishment at 13
Nha Tho, Hoan Kiem.
Tin
nh D
Kh
Trn
FRENCH-STYLE CONTEMPORARY
Hotel de lOpera, 29 Trang
Tien, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04)
6282 5555
Hoteldelopera.com
7am to 2am
La Fe Verte (or the Green
Fairy) is a metaphor for the
decadence of another age,
an allusion to the hallucinatory effects of absinthe. The
signature bar of the Hotel
de lOpra Hanoi where, just
as in Paris at the dawn of the
20th century, the making of an
evening drink a lavish event
of ritual and celebration. Understated lighting, a lounge
atmosphere, great music and
ultra-contemporary interior
design combine to bring a
genuine sense of occasion to
after-dark in the capital.
CONTEMPORARY DECOR BAR

23 Ngo Van So, Hoan Kiem
facebook.com/bar84hanoi
Housed in a colonial building, bare brick, comfortable
sofa-like seating and grungy
decor related to a past make
up the mix at this venue put
together by the people behind Barbetta.
+84 BAR
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WILD WEST THEME BAR

98B Tran Hung Dao, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3942 6822
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17 COWBOYS
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BARS & NIGHTCLUBS
L Thi T
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Du
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Nguyn
Tri Ph
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L Thi T
Trn
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Ch
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H
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Trn
Hn
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L Dun
Tel: (04) 3825 0216

7am to 8pm
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LA FE VERTE
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HOAN KIEM
DISTRICT
BAMBOO BAR
17D Hong Ha, Hoan Kiem
The first bar in what will
eventually (hopefully) be a
zone dedicated to bars and

restaurants. A pool table, a
square bar in the middle of
the room and a barbecue until the early hours theres
quite an atmosphere in this
pleasant watering hole.
CAFES
CIAO CAF
RESTO LOUNGE
2 Hang Bai, Hoan Kiem, Tel:
(04) 3934 1494
7am to 11pm
A stones throw from the
shores of Hoan Kiem Lake,
this Saigonese franchise
tries its hand with a variety
of different western dishes
at reasonable prices, especially considering the location. Loaded with booths and
a steady, young Vietnamese
crowd, the establishment is
a great place to squash a
sandwich or bowl of pasta
and people watch. Oh, and
they also do coffee, too.
HIGHLANDS COFFEE
CONTEMPORARY / COFFEE
CHAIN
5 Dinh Tien Hoang, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3936 3228;
Opera House, 1 Trang Tien,
Hoan Kiem; Hanoi Towers,
49 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem
highlandscoffee.com.vn
7am to 11pm
KINH DO
PATISSERIE / SIMPLE CAFE

252 Hang Bong, Hoan Kiem,
THE HANOI SOCIAL CLUB
CAF / CONTEMPORARY EATERY

6 Hoi Vu, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04)
3938 2117
8am to 11pm
Situated on one of the quieter Old Quarter streets
just off Hang Bong, The
Hanoi Social Club is a cozy
midsize caf/restaurant
where you can forget the
heat and bustle of Hanoi.
The atmosphere is relaxed
and you can imagine, for a
second, that youre sitting in
a European caf. The food
is fresh and internationally
inspired, and the design is
complimented by the work
of Tadiotos Nguyen Qui Duc.
To top it off, the coffee here is
said to be up there with the
best in the country.
TWITTER BEANS COFFEE

Kiem, Tel: (04) 3824 0760
twitterbeanscoffee.com
CINEMAS
CINEMATHEQUE
ARTS CINEMA
22A Hai Ba Trung, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3936 2648
Not a movie theatre per se,
but a private film club that
charges a membership fee in
return for entrance to a wide
selection of movies, new and
old. The management has
an eclectic taste and shows
films from all over the world.
CLUBS & SOCIETIES

AMERICAN CLUB
EVENT SPACE
21 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3824 1850
FRENCH CULTURAL CENTRE

Tel: (04) 3936 2164
vphanoi-lespace.com
EAT
AL FRESCOS
23L Hai Ba Trung, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3826 7782
alfrescogroup.com
8.30am to 11pm
ANGELINA
CONTEMPORARY ITALIAN
Sofitel Metopole Legend Hotel, 56 Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3826 6919
11.30am to 2.30pm and
6.30am to late (restaurant)
11am to 2am (bar)
AU LAC DO BRAZIL
BRAZILIAN
6A Cao Ba Quat, Ba Dinh, Tel:
(04) 3845 5224
aulacdobrazil.com
11am to 2pm, 5pm to midnight
A nicely themed Brazilian
churrascaria steakhouse offering all you can eat grilled
meat and seafood on the
skewer, Au Lac do Brazil is
not for the feint of stomach.
In typical Brazilian rodzio
fashion, waiters bring cuts of
meat to the table for patrons
to pick and choose, all for a
set price. They also offer wine
pairings, a salad bar and an a
la carte menu, with a creative
selection of fruit caipirinhas
on hand to wash it all down.
The prices arent for anyone
on a budget, but the amount
and quality of meat is more
than worth cost.
CAF LAUTREC
MEDITERRANEAN / INTERNATIONAL
Hotel de lOpera, 29 Trang
6282 5555
6am to 10pm
Featuring both -la-carte
and buffet dining as well
as an innovative Sunday
brunch, this namesake of the
French artist Toulouse-Lautrec provides an exotic ambience for diners to enjoy a
mixture of international and
Mediterranean-style fare.
Has an extensive wine list
to match the cuisine, which
is all served up in a contemporary yet colonial-inspired
environment.
EL GAUCHO STEAKHOUSE
ARGENTINIAN STEAKHOUSE
Tel: (04) 3824 7280
elgaucho.com.vn
4pm to late
This theme eatery combines
traditional Argentinian recipes and preparation with
great service in a contem-
porary and thoughtfully

designed space over three
floors. Already with venues
in Saigon and Bangkok, the
essence of this popular
chain is quality top grade
meats off the grill. Steak is
the mainstay, but everything
from chicken, pork and seafood is also up for grabs.
Add to this a backdrop of low
Latin music, low, subtle lighting and an extensive wine list
and thats another reason to
head to El Gaucho.
JACKSONS STEAKHOUSE
STEAKHOUSE / GRILL
23J Hai Ba Trung, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3938 8388
alfrescogroup.com
9.30am to midnight
Then newest venture from
the team behind Jaspas
and Pepperonis is an all-day
eating and drinking lounge fit
for all occasions. It has three
floors for different vibes
lounge bar, restaurant and
boardroom but fine imported steads can be found
on each, as well as seafood
and a huge wine list. A popular venue.
JASPAS
INTERNATIONAL / AUSTRALIAN
Hanoi Towers, 49 Hai Ba
Trung (4th Floor), Hoan Kiem,
Tel: (04) 3934 8325
alfrescosgroup.com
6.30am to midnight
Recently refurbished, the
Australian-influenced Jaspas is known for its attentive
service, tasty food and large
portions. A place with something for everyone, it has
proved itself to be popular
with both the western and
Asian expat communities
who come back again and
again. The comprehensive
menu is a fusion of western
and Asian cooking. The cocktails come large. The wine is
mainly New World. Also has
a spacious bar and lounge
area that stays open late for
all the live sport.
LA BADIANE
CONTEMPORARY FRENCH
10 Nam Ngu, Hoan Kiem, Tel:
(04) 3942 4509
11.30am to 2pm and 6pm to
10pm. Closed Sunday night.
A white-washed, colonial
era villa replete with period
wooden shutters greets you
as you enter this contemporary French restaurant.
Guests can either dine indoors in aircon comfort or
take to the leafy covered
terrace out back with its
walls lined with art and photography from 21st century
Hanoi. The menu here mixes
modern Gallic cuisine with a
touch of Mediterranean and
Vietnam thrown in, all creating an innovative and evocative selection of fare. Has an
extensive wine list and an
excellent, well-priced threecourse lunch menu.
hanoi
SATINE
FOOD PROMOS
CONTEMPORARY VIETNAMESE
Tel: (04) 6282 5555 ext. 6414
hoteldelopera.com
WRAP & ROLL
PROMOTIONS OF THE MONTH
5th Floor, Trang Tien Plaza,

24 Hai Ba Trung, Hoan Kiem
Tel: (04) 3824 3718
wrap-roll.com
The lime green walls and
bright pastel colours of
Wrap n Roll are just part
of the theme of this homegrown, Vietnamese brand
which is all about spring rolls
of all types, and healthy, Hueinfluenced cuisine. Now with
two restaurants in Hanoi
the second in Royal City.
GROCERIES & LIQUOR

CITIMART
SUPERMARKET
Ground Floor, Hanoi Towers,
Tel: (04) 3934 2999
DA LOC
WINE RETAILER
Tel: (04) 3826 2076; 65 Le
Duan, Hoan Kiem, Tel: (04)
3941 2789
Daloc.vn
FIVIMART
SUPERMARKET
27A Ly Thai To, Hoan Kiem
HANOI GOURMET
DELI / WINE SHOP

6T Ham Long, Hoan Kiem, Tel:
(04) 3943 1009
Hanoigourmet.com
The long-running Hanoi
Gourmet specialises in imported cheeses, meats and
artisan breads. After browsing the mainly French selection of wines, you can take a
look at the deli and sit down
for a light snack.
INTIMEX
VIETNAMESE SUPERMARKET
22-23 Le Thai To, Hoan Kiem
PANE E VINO WINE SHOP
WINE RETAILER / RESTAURANT

3 Nguyen Khac Can, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3826 9080
This Italian favourite with a
huge food menu also has a
huge for-retail wine list that
is 100 percent focused on
fine wines and liquors from
Italy. Owner Hoang has great
knowledge of Italian wine and
a passion to match, which is
sure to land you with the best
wine for any occasion.
RED APRON
WINE RETAILER
10 Da Tuong, Hanoi Tel: (04)
3943 7226
WESTERN CANNED FOODS
GROCERY STORE
Tel: (04) 3934 3854
The stuffed squid at Le Beaulieu in The Metropole. One of the dishes from their Mediterranean promotion
Nikko Gourmet Refinement

Hotel Nikko Hanoi has a host of
buffet offers for September at its
various restaurants. Our picks are
both available at La Brasserie and
include the seafood and lobster
dinner buffet with a free-flow of
wine, draught beer and soft drinks
for just VND700,000++ every Friday
and Saturday. For a boozy lunch, try
the international lunch buffet from
Monday to Friday with a free-flow of
draught beer and soft drinks plus a
complimentary glass of wine for just
VND450,000++.
Hotel Nikko is at 84 Tran Nhan Tong,
Hai Ba Trung, Hanoi
Marriott September Feasts

JW Marriott Hanoi brings a host of
special offers for September in its
three restaurants and two bars. Its
JW Caf restaurant has breakfast,
lunch and dinner buffets priced at
VND550,000++; VND770,000++ and
VND990,000++ respectively from
Monday to Friday. On Vietnamese
Independence Day and every
Sunday enjoy an evolving brunch
from 12 noon to 10pm with lobster,
pan fried foie gras and seafood plus a
free-flow of beer, juice and soft drinks
for VND1,100,000++.
Specials are also available at
their French Grill restaurant and
Crystal Jade Palace dim sum and
Cantonese-styled dining hall.

The JW Marriott Hanoi, 8 Do Duc
Duc, Me Tri, Tu Liem, Hanoi
Flavours of The Mediterranean

The Melia Hotel is bringing the taste
of The Mediterranean to El Patio.
Every Tuesday evening from 6pm to
10pm enjoy the best from the land of
sun, sea and sky with a buffet that
includes lobster served at the table.
For VND690,000++ per adult and
VND475,000++ for children under 10,
the buffet includes a broad selection
of dishes, free-flow house wine,
draught beer and soft drinks.
The Melia Hotel, 44B Ly Thuong Kiet,
Hoan Kiem, Hanoi
Mediterranean at The Metropole

With numerous restaurants and
bars, The Metropole offers a bit of
everything. Angelina, for example,
is on ravioli month, with a selection
of the Italian filled pasta dishes going
for VND320,000++. The propertys
flagship restaurant, Le Beaulieu,
is also pitching in with some
Mediterranean flavours created by
Chef Olivier Genique and his team.
Served a la carte for dinner, main
courses start at VND460,000++ per
dish.
The Sofitel Metropole Legend is
located at 15 Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem,

Hanoi
The Semi-Buffet
Available through the week for
busy businessmen looking to leave
the office behind for 30 minutes
to an hour, or families and friends
searching for a place to enjoy lunch
and dinner, The Mvenpick has
created a semi-buffet specially
designed by chef Hiep Chu. Enjoy
a wide selection of appetizers and
a dessert buffet complimented with
your choice of done a-la-minute
grilled items at the Mangosteens
open kitchen for only VND298,000++
inclusive of one local beer and one
soft drink.
The Movenpick is at 83 Ly Thuong
Kiet, Hoan Kiem, Hanoi
Duck Specials at The Sofitel

Ming on the first floor of the Sofitel
Plaza is running a number of duck
specials this month. Served up with
a wide selection of sauces such as
mushroom sauce, plum sauce, oyster
sauce, and curry sauce, a number of
a la carte options are available. Ming
is also continuing its popular Dim
Sum buffet from Monday to Friday
at VND580,000+ per adult and
VND360,000++ per child.
The Sofitel Plaza, 1 Thanh Nien, Ba
Dinh, Hanoi
hanoi
ARTS / BARS & CLUBS / BOOK SHOPS / CAFES / CLOTHING / COOKING CLASSES /
CRAFTS & FURNITURE / CYCLING & BICYCLE RENTALS / EAT / FITNESS & YOGA /
GROCERIES, LIQUOR & KITCHEN PRODUCTS / MEDICAL & DENTAL / EXPAT SERVICES
CLASSIC ITALIAN
27 Nam Ngu, Tel: (04) 3823
7338
11am to 11pm
This old-favourite Italian
uses traditional wood ovens
to prepare some of the citys
finest pizzas, which range
from VND80,000 to buildyour-own-skies-the-limit.
Set inside a large, thoughtful
space seasoned chefs also
make fresh pastas, soups
and cheeses the latter often bought by other restaurants. Monthly opera nights
make it well worth a visit, as
does the large wine list and
choice of desserts.
n
A n Dng V g
Tn
Filled with wooden furnishings and a downstairs bar

with two beers on tap as
well as wine, cocktails and
spirits on the shelves this
newcomer venue has a grill
menu catering to the tastes
of both East and West. For
those in search of a good
old-fashioned Sloppy Joe
or grilled cheese, youll be
glad to know the kitchen is
stocked to the ceiling with
comfort foods.
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Xu
TRACYS PUB AND GRILL
hi
Ng
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ARTS
WORK ROOM FOUR
ARTS STUDIO & GALLERY

Packexim Building Tower 1,
23rd Floor, No. 49 Lane 15,
An Duong Vuong, Tay Ho
workrmfour@gmail.com
workrmfour.tumblr.com
A place to work. A space to
create. Somewhere to see
something new. Work Room
Four is pulling together the
threads of creative endeavours across Hanoi. A collective that promotes collaboration and new ideas,
exhibitions, workshops,
artist studios, courses, contacts and events.
BARS & CLUBS

88 LOUNGE
CONTEMPORARY WINE BAR

88 Xuan Dieu, Tay ho, Tel:
(04) 3718 8029
88group.vn
5pm to late
A wine bar with a difference,
this addition to the watering
hole scene in West Lake
mixes contemporary design,
black ceilings, subtle lighting
and an international aesthetic with one of the best wine
lists in town. Not surprisingly
it is developing a faithful clientele. Well worth a visit.
Thm
g
Ho
HANOI ROCK CITY
LIVE MUSIC VENUE

27/52 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho,
Tel: 01633 166170
hanoirockcity.com
5pm to midnight
With a downstairs, Englishstyle pub garden area and an
upstairs space dedicated to
live music and live production, Hanoi Rock City is the
only venue in the capital
of its kind. Has weekly live
events featuring bands both
from Vietnam and overseas
established and up and
coming. Email jimihendrix@
hanoirockcity.com for more
information or check out
their page on Facebook.
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Hong Quc Vit
CONTEMPORARY INTERNATIONAL
3rd Floor, 59A Ly Thai To,
0888
hanoi-pressclub.com
11.30am to 2pm and 6pm
to 10.30pm. Closed Sunday
lunch
Wooden flooring, paneling
and bold but subtle colours
pervade this traditional but
contemporary, fine-dining
70-seater venue close to
the Opera House. Serving
up quality cuisine for over a
decade, Press Club boasts
a bar area, two private dining rooms, including a wine
room, a library and a vast
selection of cigars, all in an elegant atmosphere. Does four
excellent wine pairing menus,
put together through the aid
of the Press Clubs extensive
new and old world wine list.
Also hosts a popular firstFriday-of-the-month party.
Qu
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Ho
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PRESS CLUB
PAN-ITALIAN
3 Nguyen Khac Can, Hoan
Kiem, Tel: (04) 3826 9080
8am to 10.30pm
Just a stroll away from the
Hanoi Opera House and
Hoan Kiem Lake in the heart
of Hanoi, Pane e Vino serves
up authentic Italian food
and has done for as long as
anyone can remember. Renowned for the highly rated,
oven fresh pizzas and large
variety of pasta and salad
dishes look forward to fine
food done well at this eatery
that has the feel of Europe.
Huge wine lists, friendly staff
and a loveable owner.
PANE E VINO
NINETEEN 11
INTERNATIONAL / ASIAN
The Opera House, 1 Trang
3933 4801
nineteen11.com.vn
11am to 2pm, 6pm to 10pm
TAY HO
DISTRICT
LUNO DAUTUNNO
ceptional quality of the coffee and tea, the latest Coffee

Bean is a multilevel, indoor/
outdoor caf overlooking
Westlake. With its LA coffee
and office feel, when you
walk in you might just forget
that youre in Westlake.
tay ho
Lo
ng
CLASSIC FRENCH / BUFFET

Sofitel Metropole Legend, 15
Ngo Quyen, Hoan Kiem, Tel:
(04) 3826 6919
6am to 10am, 11.30am
to 2.30pm and 6.30pm to
10.30pm
Lc
LE BEAULIEU
MADAKE
CONTEMPORARY RESTOBAR
(04) 6276 6665 or 0984
002181
With a stunning garden
overlooking a peaceful lotus pond, this bar and restaurant is ideal for those
seeking a fusion of Western
and Eastern cuisine. Famed
for its many weekday and
weekend events, the ambient
Asian-style dcor, weekend
DJ nights and general atmosphere makes Madake
a popular West Lake go-to
joint.
RED RIVER TEA ROOM

HOUSE OF SON TINH
LIQUOR LOUNGE
(04) 3718 6377
sontinh.com
8am to 11.30pm
As part of the Highway 4
group, which now has its
offices in the establishments upstairs areas, this
bar-cum-restaurant outfitted with comfortable, stylish
furnishings is famed for its
luxurious rice wine liquors
and newly created cocktail
class. Does regular events
on the first floor and also
has a creative Vietnamese
food menu based on cuisine
sold at other restaurants in
the chain.
LAKESIDE WATERING HOLE

25 Duong Ven Ho, Tay Ho
Open daily from 2pm.
Located on the lakeside lane
just below Xuan Dieu, this
warm, quiet and friendly
pub offers a selection of international and local beers,
wine, cocktails and a nice
view of West Lake. Serving
pies and pasties from The
Cart, Vietnamese food from
Dieus next door, or delivery
from nearby favorites. Nonsmoking, unpretentious,
dog-friendly.
TAY TAP
MEET-UP SPOT
100A Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel:
(04) 3718 6917
4pm to late
SPORTS BAR/GRILL
40 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho , Tel:
(04) 6675 9838
tracyspub.com
11am to 12am
This Canadian-run, miniscule sports bar on the
main drag of Xuan Dieu is
perpetually crowded with
regulars drinking out front
on plastic stools. Notorious
for its mouth-watering burgers, cooked fresh to order,
Tracys is most famous for
their draft beers, claiming
to serve the coldest draft
beer in Hanoi, and always
in a frosted mug. For those
missing their dose of North
American sports, they play
all day via satellite on two
plasmas.
BOOK SHOPS
HIGHLANDS COFFEE
CHAIN
Ground Floor, Syrena Centre, 51B Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho
7am to 11pm
JOMA BAKERY CAFE
COFFEE/BAKERY
43 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel:
(04) 3718 6071
joma.biz
7am to 9pm
With two branches, Joma
has brought a little slice
of home to Hanoi for expatriates with a contemporary western feel to the
counter-style service and
atmosphere. The food is
all there too: breakfasts,
salads, soups, ice cream,
muffins, cakes, cereals and
bagels. Starting in Laos in
1996, Joma moved to Hanoi in 2009 and contributes
2 percent of each sale to
charitable organisations.
KUB CAFE
BIKING CAFE
so 12 ngo 264 Au Co, Tay Ho
kub.vn
Think obsession, think motorbikes and you get Kub
Cafe, an industrial, warehouse-style watering hole
bringing thats become a favorite of the motorbike clubs.
Does good on-the-table bia
hoi and runs biking events.
BOOKWORM TOO
NEW & SECOND-HAND BOOKS

1/28 Nghi Tam Village, Tay
Ho Tel: (04) 3829 2322
Bookworm has been the cornerstone of Hanois literary
scene since 2001. It has
been around the block quite
a bit and now shares a space
with Hanoi Cooking Centre.
With over 15,000 new and
second-hand fiction and
nonfiction titles in stock, the
shop also buys used books
and offers free travel advice.
Has a second shop in Tay Ho
CAFES
COFFEE BEAN AND TEA LEAF
INTERNATIONAL COFFEE HOUSE

28 Thanh Nien, Tay Ho, Tel:
(04) 3715 4240
coffeebean.com
7am to 10pm
Finally the newest addition
to the Hanoi coffee scene
has opened a little closer to
town than the first outlet in
Pico Mall. Famous for the ex-
LA GRACE
ART CAFE & GALLERY

8B/52 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho,
Tel: 0912 666736
lagrace.com.vn
7.15am to 10pm
Located on a peaceful
street named after the famous painter, To Ngoc Van,
La Grace is a destination
for those who appreciate
lifes pleasures: drinks,
food, arts and sometimes
live music. Clean, comfortable and friendly, the venue
has a nice selection of
juices and smoothies and a
Vietnamese-cum-Japanese
food menu put together using organic vegetables. Set
lunches cost VND150,000,
and the caf also has strong
WiFi as well as separate nonsmoking and smoking areas.
hanoi
THE ALCHEMIST
OUR INNER CHILD
ne of the things I love about

living in a foreign country is
learning more about the cultural
significance of the routines of
daily life, as well as the meanings of
festivities and ceremonies.
This months Moon Festival is one I
have experienced many times but beyond
the endless eating of moon cakes, the
lantern making and lion dances, I knew
little of the fact that the Mid-Autumn
Festival, by which it is also known, is a
celebration centred around children.
Reportedly a time for parents to catch
up with their children after the summer
harvest, the Mid-Autumn Festival is also
a time to recognize children for their
innocence and purity.
It is believed that only those possessing
these qualities can get close to the natural
and sacred world. The goal therefore is to
become like children in order to acquire
the attributes of the gods.
Our Inner Child

I cant help but draw upon the parallels
of the many spiritual teachings that urge

a person to connect with their inner
child. We are encouraged to not only find
our inner child but also to embrace it,
heal it, and release it. Why is our inner
child so important?
From a psychological standpoint,
our base emotions stem from our inner
child, therefore working through any
unresolved childhood issues will help us
to lead a more harmonious life.
From a spiritual perspective, the
inner child represents who we truly are,
the innocent, joyful being that came
into this world. Unfortunately, in the
growing up process too many of us lose
touch with that source of innocence and
wonderment.
The Secret
To help reconnect to this vital source of
joy, retry some of the things that brought
you fun and laughter as a child; take
the time to absorb the beauty in your
surroundings; listen to your heart, break
free of any restrictions that limit the
BY KAREN GAY
fullness of who you are. These are but

a few suggestions on how to rediscover
your inner child.
Just as we find it natural to foster and
nurture childrens imaginations, their
enthusiasm and joy, so too should we aim
to nurture these qualities as adults. The
secret of genius is to carry the spirit of
childhood into maturity, said evolution
theory advocate, T.H. Huxley.
God Within
This Moon Festival join the lion
dances, make some lanterns, eat lots
of moon cakes and embrace life with
the enthusiasm and joy that is inherent
within us.
The Greek origin of the word,
enthusiasm means to have God within.
What better way to acquire the attributes
of the gods than to be full of enthusiasm.
Karen Gay, A-Roaming Bodyworker,
is a holistic health practitioner practicing
in Hanoi. For information on the types of
services provided, visit a-roamingbodyworker.
com
SAINT HONORE
CAFE / BOULANGERIE
5 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04)
3933 2355
st.honorehn@gmail.com
7am to 10pm
Decked out in maroon, dark
browns and cream, this cafe
and French-style boulangerie
is best visited in the morning
when that Gallic, fresh-cooked
aroma of bread, croissants and
patisseries hits you as you walk
through the door. Serving all
day long, the downstairs space
is split into the bakery on one
side with a small non-smoking
dining space on the other. The
homely upstairs lounge area has
standard tables as well as sofa
seating. Simple but tasty French
and international fare is served
at meal times.
TET DCOR CAF
ART CAF & ESPRESSO BAR

Villa 25, 1, 3 Ha, Dang Thai, Tay
Ho
tet-lifestyle-collection.com
8am to 6pm, Tuesday to Sunday
Cloistered among the back
streets of West Lake and sheltered from the noise of Xuan
Dieu, TET Dcor Caf is a destination for those who appreciate
lifes pleasures: coffee, food, art
and music. Simple and unpretentious, the caf has an oldfashioned warmth and rustic
feel combined with unique and
inspiring art installations.
THE CART
SANDWICH SHOP / CAF

8B, Lane 1, Au Co, Nghi Tam Village, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3938 2513
thecartfood.com
7.30am to 5pm
Small cozy caf and sandwich
bar hidden away in Nghi Tam
Village. Serves and delivers tasty
baguettes, homemade juices,
quiches, pies, muffins and cakes.
The delivery service is quick and
reliable, which makes this lunchtime favourite ideal for when you
need to eat at the desk.
THE HANOI BICYCLE COLLECTIVE

(THBC)
CAF / TAPAS BAR

44, Ngo 31, Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho,
Tel: (04) 3718 8246
thbc.vn
9am to 10pm
Tucked down an alleyway just
off West Lake, The Hanoi Bicycle
Collective is not just a place for
all bicycle lovers, but a caf that
also sells Spanish tapas served
up with gin & tonic, if the mood
so takes you. Organising bicycle
tours, running yoga sessions
and holding music concerts in
their upstairs cafe area, they
also sell, rent and fix bikes and
are an official supplier of TREK
and SURLY cycling equipment.
Eclectic? Not a chance!
CLOTHING
GEORGES FASHION BOUTIQUE
CONTEMPORARY WESTERN-STYLE
36 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04)
3718 6233
With new styles arriving in store
every second day, this shop offers a huge range of dresses,
shirts, pants, skirts and accessories in local and imported
fabrics. Clothes fit all sizes, from
petite to average to the generous
figure. Alterations and a madeto-measure service are available
at no extra cost.
LATELIER
WOMENS WEAR & ACCESSORIES

3718 6758
ateliervietnam.com
Stocks womens wear, leather
bags, shoes and handicrafts.
This chic boutique offers both
ready-to-wear and made-to-fit
clothing.
COOKING CLASSES
HIDDEN HANOI
COOKING CENTRE
147 Nghi Tam, Tay Ho, Tel: 0912
254045
hiddenhanoi.com.vn
A wide range of Vietnamese culinary classes are offered in these
well-appointed and clean facilities. The knowledgeable staff will
guide you through the secrets of
Vietnamese cooking in an open
air courtyard.
HIGHWAY4 COOKING CLASS

VIETNAMESE COOKING CENTRE
68, Ngo 27 Xuan Dieu, Ba Dinh,
Tel: 0976 848301
CRAFTS & FURNITURE

BETTERWORLD
GLOBAL HANDICRAFTS
8 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho
Fair trade or bought directly
from the artisans who made
them, Betterworld stocks unusual handicrafts from around the
world as well as second-hand
books, DVDs and more.
LA CASA
CONTEMPORARY DESIGN
Syrena Tower, 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay
Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 4084
lacasavietnam.com.vn
A shop whose speciality is designing furniture and other
household objects, this spot
has everything from beds and
bookshelves, to tableware and
silverware. The items are all
locally made by skilled artisans
from Hanoi and the surrounding
regions.
MEKONG QUILTS
HANDMADE / CHARITABLE QUILTS

3926 4831
Mekong-quilts.org
Community development nonprofit quilt shop featuring handmade quilts and accessories.
Styles vary from traditional to
patterned and Asian-inspired.
Founded in 2001 and with
outposts in several locations
around the region, the shop
employs women in rural areas,
enabling them to make an income and care for their families.
CYCLING & BICYCLE RENTALS

DONS TAY HO
BICYCLE RENTALS
3719 3719
Dons-bistro.com
THE HANOI BICYCLE COLLECTIVE

(THBC)
CYCLING COLLECTIVE
44, Ngo 31, Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho,
Tel: (04) 3718 8246
thbc.vn
Tucked down an alleyway just
off West Lake, The Hanoi Bicycle
Collective is a place for all bicycle lovers! An official supplier of
TREK and SURLY cycling equipment, the joint not only sells but
also rents and fixes bicycles. To
add to the eclectic, community
spirit they also organise bicycle
tours, run yoga sessions, hold
music concerts in their upstairs
cafe area and run a great menu
of Spanish tapas served up, if
you so wish, with gin & tonic.
Quite a mix!
EAT
AL FRESCOS
3719 5322
alfrescogroup.com
8.30am to 11pm
DA PAOLO
CLASSIC ITALIAN
18 Lane 50/59/17 Dang Thai
Mai, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6317
11am to 11pm
This airy, contemporary looking Italian restaurant next to
the famed lawn chair and coconut caf on West Lake has
all the right ingredients to become a classic. Run by the long
time former manager of Luna
DAutunno, it features scrumptious wood-fired oven pizzas
from VND120,000 and other
Italian delicacies. Open every
day for lunch and dinner, delivery is also available.
DALUVA
FUSION / MIDDLE-EASTERN
33 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04)
3718 5831
daluva.com
8am until late
A popular hang-out for expats
and trendy Vietnamese in the
Xuan Dieu area on West Lake.
This bar and restaurant offers
casual dining with a classy,
Middle-Eastern twist, as well as
wine, tapas, events and attractive dcor.
DONS TAY HO
CONTEMPORARY NORTH AMERICAN

3719 3719
Dons-bistro.com
Monday to Friday, 10am to late.
Weekends 8am to late
This lake-facing venue with
its top floor Oyster Bar is the
work of charismatic Canadian
restaurateur and wine connoisseur Donald Berger. Focusing
on comfort food done well, the
main restaurant menu includes
anything from wood-grilled rare
tuna steak with fragrant Chinese
black bean beurre noir to gourmet pizza and pasta dishes such
as the likes of Iberian pata negro ham egg pasta served with
crushed roasted garlic and manchego. Does an excellent range
of imported oysters and has an
extensive wine list.
EL GAUCHO STEAKHOUSE
3718 6991
elgaucho.com.vn
4pm to late
This theme eatery combines traditional Argentinian recipes and
preparation with great service
in a contemporary and thoughtfully designed space over three
floors. Already with venues in
Saigon and Bangkok, the essence of this popular chain is
quality top grade meats off the
grill. Steak is the mainstay, but
everything from chicken, pork
and seafood is also up for grabs.
Add to this a backdrop of low
Latin music, low, subtle lighting
and an extensive wine list and
thats another reason to head to
El Gaucho.
HALIA HANOI
SINGAPOREAN / CONTEMPORARY
INTERNATIONAL
3946 0121
thehalia.com
Daily 11am to 11pm
A multi-floored venue with a bar
area and a refined dining space.
The menu includes Singaporean
specialities such as the shrimp
satay salad and the chilli crab
spaghetti. A pan-European classical menu mixed in with light
Asian flavours is also on offer.
Has an extensive wine list.
HEMISPHERES STEAK & SEAFOOD

GRILL
CONTEMPORARY STEAK & SEAFOOD
Sheraton Hotel, 11 Xuan Dieu,
Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 9000
sheraton.com/hanoi
11.30am to 2.30pm, 6.30pm to
10pm
The newest Steak & Seafood dining experience in Hanoi. Hemispheres Steak & Seafood Grill offers a wonderful menu covering
both the Northern and Southern
hemispheres. Choose from Black
Angus, US Prime Sirloin, Rib Eye,
Rump and Tenderloin grilled to
perfection. Prefer Seafood
no problem, Lobster, Oysters,
hanoi
THE THERAPIST
WORKING IT OUT
This month Douglas Holwerda, American trained and licensed mental

health counsellor, talks about learning how to diffuse heat and emotion in the middle of a conflict
Dear Douglas,
Lately, my wife of four years has become
unbearably aggressive in the way that
she is talking to me. We have an on-going
disagreement about living in Vietnam
that we cant come to terms with. She is
blaming me for a decision we both made.
In any case, we have no option but to
live with it for at least a year. Once she
starts screaming, calling me names and
saying things that are meant to hurt me,
I dont know what to do. Arguing back
doesnt work we end up on the verge of
knocking each other out. Leaving the house
doesnt work. It has only proved to make
her madder. I never imagined we would be
so unable to solve our problems together.
Help! She is out of control.
No End in Sight
No End,
The readers should be informed that this
letter has identified a crisis a situation
that calls for immediate attention and
cannot wait for the next issue of Word to
come out. No End was contacted and was
able to find a therapist who facilitated
the communication that helped him and
his wife move out of the risk of danger,
physical and emotional, that intense
emotions can create.

Conflict and disagreement are a normal
and predictable part of any relationship,
particularly within a marriage or with a
partner with whom life decisions are being
made. Often we discover ourselves in these
conflicts before we realise the power and
intensity they have and the difficulty that
comes from trying to resolve them. There
is a real danger that people are hurt or that
the damage done is irreparable.
My advice is to consider some ground
rules that provides a structure that
increases the likeliness of getting to
resolutions that are amicable. A lot of it
has to do with knowing and managing
our emotions. It is helpful to learn the
difference between responding and
reacting to a situation or conflict.
Responding is the ability to consider
how we feel and what we think, while
making a choice that is consistent with
our values, or the way we want to be in
the world. If our emotions are intense,
in order to respond we need to pause
long enough to calm ourselves and to
see what the factors are that are causing
that intensity. Often it is more than the
given situation. Unfortunately, it is not
uncommon for many of us to react, which
is to allow the intensity of our emotions

to determine the behaviour we choose.
Often when one acts out of that intensity
they find themselves regretting their
actions later, when they see it from a less
emotional perspective.
Many couples learn that when emotions
start to escalate, they are better off calling
time out and stepping away from the
conflict to regain composure so they can
revisit the issues from a place of relative
calm. They learn that very few solutions
occur when intense anger, frustration, or
fear are in play. The key is not to escape
the issue, but rather to see it from the
broadest perspective that of being calm.
While anger can often be justifiable, it can
never be used as a license for abusive or
damaging behaviour.
I am hopeful and confident that No End
In Sight has found an end even if it is to
agree to disagree with the help of some
facilitation. It is a role that therapy can play
for couples or families in trouble.
Be well,
Douglas
Do you have a question you would like
Douglass help with? You can email him at
douglasholwerda@hotmail.com. Personal
details will not be printed
hanoi
Prawns, Fresh Fish, Clams and Crabs are all
available for your dining pleasure, as well as
an impressive array of wines by the glass &
bottle from our
IL FARO
ITALIAN / MEDITERRANEAN
Villa 3, Cong Doan Hotel Compound, 98 To
Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 6327 1142
Hidden away in Cong Doan Hotel, this panMediterranean restaurant owned by the
same people behind Mediterraneo serves
up an assortment of French, Spanish and
Italian dishes in a pleasant, white-washed
yet Italian-influenced atmosphere.
INDIA PALACE
NORTH INDIAN
10B Quang An, Tay Ho Tel: 01247 668668
indiapalacehn@vnn.vn
Like a phoenix rising from the ashes, so India Palace has once again returned to Tay
Ho, this time on the strip between Dons and
The Warehouse. Tasty North Indian fare in a
pleasant environment from the team behind
Tandoor.
cream, this bakery and French-style bistro is best visited in the morning when that
Gallic, fresh-cooked aroma of bread, croissants and patisseries hits you as you walk
through the door. The downstairs space is
split into the bakery on one side with a small
non-smoking dining space on the other. The
upstairs lounge area has standard tables
as well as sofa seating. Simple French and
international fare is served at meal times.
Has additional venues at 31 Thai Phien, Hai
Ba Trung and Unimart, 8 Pham Ngoc Thach,
Dong Da
THE PIE SHOP
TAKEAWAY PIES
2nd Floor (on the left), Syrena Center, 51
Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 1507
thepieshophanoi@gmail.com
Classic Aussie and Kiwi-style savoury pies
and rolls. Available in three convenient sizes
(mini, regular and large). Enjoy them hot as a
takeaway, or frozen to keep for later.
LA SALSA
IBERIAN / MEDITERANEAN
53 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 5656
8am to 11pm
THE SUSHI CLUB
CONTEMPORARY JAPANESE
10A Quang An (ngo 27 Xuan Dieu), Tay Ho
Tel: 0934 544263
thesushiclub.info
Featuring a delicious combination of contemporary Japanese dishes as well as other traditional Japanese favorites, The Sushi Club
combines great cuisine with charming views
over West Lake. The ambience is warm and
comfortable making it the perfect place for
dating, business dinners, meeting friends
and family gatherings. Quiet private rooms
are available.
EXPAT SERVIES
KITCHEN
INTERNATIONAL CAFE FARE

30 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3719 2679
hungskitchen@gmail.com
7am to 9pm
Set inside a newly renovated house with a
large courtyard, Kitchen is a great space
for eating the decent breakfasts (check out
the breakfast burrito), the creatively titled
sandwiches and the selection of international
salads. Also does a range of Mexican dishes
(available after 5pm) and an innovative smattering of healthy, smoothie-style drinks.
MAID IN VIETNAM
HOUSEKEEPING SERVICES
Suite 201, 5 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04)
3718 3112
maidinvietnam.com
Offering a licensed hire service for trained
domestic and office housemaids, cooks and
nannies. Courses include health checks,
housekeeping, safety, basic 1st Aid, courses
for external maids and household management for Vietnamese wives of foreigners.
FITNESS & YOGA
R&R TAVERN
RESTOBAR / LIVE MUSIC

256 Nghi Tam, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 6295 8215
Now on its third location, this watering hole
still lives up to its old name, providing an array of drinks, buzzing chatter, and of course,
some quality live rock music. Its upstairs
area is equipped with a sound system and
stage setup for weekly shows and events,
while the downstairs area houses a classic
bar that gives a finishing touch to the friendly
community environment.
SAINT HONORE
BOULANGERIE / BISTRO
sainthonore.com.vn
7am to 10pm
Decked out in maroon, dark browns and
PUNTO ITALIA
hanoinetball@gmail.com
Hanoi Ois Netball Club is a mixed ability,
mixed gender club for adults wanting to enjoy team sport while also improving fitness
and developing skills. The club plays every
Tuesday from 6pm to 7pm at UNIS. Email for
more information
COFFEE MACHINES
62 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 6258 3510
puntoitalia.asia
Trendy, reliable and stylish coffee machines
for the workplace or home, specialising in
authentic Italian coffee. Also sells their own
brand coffee in capsules, ready ground or as
the original roasted mix of beans.
VIETCLIMB
RED APRON
CLIMBING CENTRE
40 Ngo 76 An Duong, Tay Ho, Tel: 0914
143185
vietclimb.vn
Although a little hard to find, VietClimb is a
French-owned, 200-meter climbing gym with
state-of-the-art courses. There are 100 different climbing routes within the gym that
are changed every few months. They offer
clinics, classes and childrens events. Membership and group rates are available, but
be sure to check out the three-month pass.
ZENITH YOGA
J.A.F.A.
INTERNATIONAL
G2-G3 Ciputra, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3758 2400
7am to 11pm
One of the larger and more comfortable bars
in Hanoi, J.A.F.A. is a great place for drinking cocktails by the pool. The beverages are
not the cheapest, but this is made up for by
service and ambiance. They also have a full
menu featuring familiar western dishes such
as pizza and cheeseburgers and cater for
large parties or dinner functions. Periodic
buffets and drink specials are also offered.
HANOI OIS
ELITE FITNESS
TOP-END HEALTH CENTRE

elitefitness.com.vn
The luxury gym features top-of-the-line fitness equipment, separate cardio and spinning areas and an indoor swimming pool with
a retractable roof. The spacious studios and
natural light make it a welcoming place to
squeeze in a work out, but be prepared to
pay. This place is top of the range.
HANOI CLUB
COUNTRY CLUB
76 Yen Phu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3823 8115
thehanoiclub.com
YOGA & MEDITATION

247 Au Co, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3923 0253
An international Yoga studio providing
classes across a variety of levels and styles,
including prenatal and postnatal classes, restorative yoga, pilates and tai chi. Also have a
yogic shop offering incense, yoga and pilates
mats, books, clothes, soaps, Himalayan products and other essential yoga equipment.
GROCERIES, LIQUOR & KITCHEN PRODUCTS

ANNAM GOURMET
GROCERIES / DELI
First Floor, 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04)
3718 4487
FIVIMART
SUPERMARKET
Second Floor, 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04)
3719 1791
KITCHEN ART
KITCHENWARE
38 Quang An, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 6680 2770
kitchenart.vn
Kitchen Art is a little haven for all foodies,
cooks and bakers to grow their love and passion for cooking and baking. Come to Kitchen
Art Store to buy restaurant-grade tools and
ingredients to cook like a chef, take part in
regular demonstrations and workshops at
the Studio, or simply read and relax at the
cookbook cafe corner while enjoying the
peaceful West Lake view.
L'S PLACE
GROCERY SHOP
WINE RETAILER
28 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho. Tel: (04) 3719 8337
THE OASIS
ITALIAN DELI
A great place to get all kinds of imported
groceries and home-made foods. All of the
breads and pastas are made in the in-house
kitchen. A great variety of fresh sauces, a limited, but well-chosen selection of wines and a
fantastic deli and cheese case. Free delivery.
THE WAREHOUSE
WINE RETAILER
27 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho Tel: (04) 3718 3701
warehouse-asia.com
The Warehouse is Vietnams ultimate premium wine importer, distributor, and retailer,
representing many of the greatest wines
from the best wine-growing regions on the
planet. The portfolio mixes the best of both
old and new world wines.
MEDICAL & DENTAL

INTERNATIONAL SOS 24-HOUR CLINIC
MEDICAL / DENTAL CLINIC

Internationalsos.com
Well-known medical clinic also known for
its quality emergency services. Doctors and
consultants also provide a range of services
from standard GP-style check-ups through
to vaccinations, paediatrics and specialist
care.
ONE DENTAL CLINIC
DENTISTS
8 Quang An, Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718
6168
WESTCOAST INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC
DENTAL CLINIC
2nd Fl, Syrena Center, 51 Xuan Dieu, Tay Ho,
Tel: (04) 3710 0555
westcoastinternational.com
The Westcoast International Dental Clinic
is composed of dental professionals who
deliver modern, high-level dental services
throughout Vietnam. The clinic provides
the highest quality technology, comfort and
after-service care to patients.
NATURALLY VIETNAM
ORGANIC / NATURAL PRODUCTS

4 Lane 67, Alley 12, To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel:
(04) 6674 4130
naturallyvietnam.com
Offers food and beverage produced in Vietnam with full traceability and strict food
safety controls. Meat, egg, milk, fish, veggies,
honey, jams, fruit juices, liquors, coffee, water, ice cream. Also, every Saturday from
8.30am to 12.30pm, the team convert the
store yard into the Tay Ho Weekend Market,
a cross-cultural outdoor shopping and socialising hotspot for expats and Vietnamese.
Do you think you should be listed on these

pages? If so, simply email us on
listings@wordvietnam.com and well see
what we can do. We cant promise but well
try our best
hanoi
ba dinh
BARS & NIGHTCLUBS / BOOKSHOPS / CAFES / CLUBS & SOCIETIES / COOKING CLASSES / EAT /
FITNESS & YOGA / HAIRDRESSERS & SALONS / MEDICAL & DENTAL
FOODSHOP 45
Ph
BARS & NIGHTCLUBS

BARBETTA
ARTSY BAR & CAFE

34C Cao Ba Quat, Ba Dinh,
Tel: (04) 3734 9134
ETE BAR
FRENCH LOUNGE
95 Giang Van Minh, Ba Dinh,
Tel: 0976 751331
10am to midnight
A favourite among those who
roam further west of the
city centre, this multi-storey
restobar has been going
strong for more than two
years. It has balconies, mezzanine seating and a long bar
guarding exactly 50 different
cocktails. For many the Ete
burger is right on the mark
as are the sandwiches, tartines and salads. Its always
crowded especially during the weekends. Amiable
staff, pleasant vibes.
SUMMIT LOUNGE
ROOFTOP LOUNGE BAR

20th Floor, Sofitel Plaza, 1
Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04)
3823 8888 ext. 5314
4pm to Midnight Sunday to
Wednesday, 4pm to 2am
Thursday to Saturday
ALTERNATIVE DANCE CLUB

18 Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh
facebook.com/vaulthanoi
The work of Mao, the enigmatic personality behind
Maos Red Lounge and The
BOOKSHOPS
BOOKWORM
BOOK SHOP
44 Chau Long, Ba Dinh, Tel:
(04) 3715 3711; 1/28 Nghi
Tam Village, Tay Ho Tel: (04)
3829 2322
Bookworm has been the cornerstone of Hanois literary
scene since 2001. It has
been around the block quite
a bit and now shares a space
with Hanoi Cooking Centre.
With over 15,000 new and
second-hand fiction and
nonfiction titles in stock, the
shop also buys used books
and offers free travel advice.
Has a second shop in Tay Ho
CAFES
CAF GOETHE
ARTS CAF
56 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Ba Dinh,
Tel: 3734 7395
CONG CAPHE
LEFTIST ARTSY CAFE

32 Dien Bien Phu, Ba Dinh,
Tel: (04) 2247 0602
8am to 10pm
With a kitsch, communistdriven theme saturating this
Ca B
c
B Tr
i u
Trn
Hn
g
o
quaint cafe, most patrons

are young Vietnamese bohemians and artsy expats.
Sip on a blended cup of joe
with beans from the Central
Highlands, knock back one
of the many different types
of tea available or sip on
freshly squeezed juice from
the Spartan cups in one of
the hippest cafes on cafe
street. If you like pre-doi
moi nostalgia, here is the
place to go.
HIGHLANDS COFFEE
CHAIN
28A Dien Bien Phu, Ba Dinh
(Next to the Flag Tower) Tel:
(04) 3823 3339
7am to 11pm
MANZI
ARTS CAF & GALLERY

14 Phan Huy Ich, Ba Dinh,
Tel: (04) 3716 3397
facebook.com/manzihanoi
A stunningly designed contemporary caf and events
space that screams out the
words modern art. Housed
in a converted colonial-era
villa, a continuous flow of exhibitions, talks, experimental music and game shows
make up the mix here. Great
cuisine, too.
CLUBS & SOCIETIES

GOETHE INSTITUT
GERMAN CULTURAL CENTRE

58 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Ba Dinh
inh T
in H o n g
Hng
Bi
Q u n
Phng
Th
n
Tn
X
Ho
Coach House, this underground homage to nighttime

decadence sits in the gap
between The Old Quarter
and West Lake, bringing in a
range of DJs and nightly entertainment. A great addition
to the scene.
Trn
g Th
i
Khm Thin
C
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Kh
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Trn Ph
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Ho
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Th
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Tri Ph
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Na
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La
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Diu
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Vn
Cao
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La Th
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Cha Lng
Hu
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Kim M
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Sn Ty
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Phng
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Xu
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To
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Kim M
THE VAULT
Phan
nh
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Kh
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Ph
Qun
Hong
Hoa
Th
m
Th
Ngu
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Hong
Ho
Th
Thanh
Ho
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Hong Quc Vit
Ni
Hng
Q
Lo
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L c
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BA DINH
DISTRICT
Trn Nhn Tng
Tel: (04) 3734 2251

goethe.de/hanoi
COOKING CLASSES
HANOI COOKING CENTRE
COOKING CENTRE
(04) 3715 0088
hanoicookingcentre.com
Hanoi Cooking Centre is a
school, retail outlet and caf,
where you can find classes
on not just Vietnamese
cooking, but international
cuisine, held in a beautiful
setting. They also offer culinary tours.
EAT
AU LAC DO BRAZIL
BRAZILIAN CHURRASCO
6A Cao Ba Quat, Ba Dinh, Tel:
(04) 3845 5224
aulacdobrazil.com
Open for over a decade,
Au Lac Do Brazil is home to
the Hanoi's best Churrasco
menu with a wide variety of
meats from Calabrian sausage and picanha through
to D-rump steak and smoked
hams. Pioneering the eat-asmuch-as-you-can theme in
Vietnam, Passadors bring
the meat skewers to your
table, and you, the customer
then choose your accompaniments from the salad bar.
Best washed down with red
wine or a Caipirinha or five.
INTERNATIONAL INDIAN
59 Truc Bach, Ba Dinh, Tel:
(04) 3716 2959
10am to 10.30pm
Lakeside location, low bamboo seating and a history
that screams empathy make
this eatery one of the most
popular Indians in town. Selling an international version
of the mighty curry they
even sell pork and beef here
the menu keeps to the
northern part of the subcontinent with masala, dopiaza,
korma and the more Goan
vindaloo taking centre stage.
Also has a good range of
breads and tandoor-cooked
kebabs.
HIGHWAY 4
VIETNAMESE / ETHNIC
575 Kim Ma, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04)
3771 6372
10am to midnight
HOA SUA TRAINING RESTAURANT

SONG THU
(04) 3942 4448
hoasuaschool.com
KOTO ON VAN MIEU
RESTAURANT / CAF / BAR

59 Van Mieu, Dong Da, Tel:
(04) 3747 0337
koto.com.au
Monday: 7am to 4pm;
Tuesday to Sunday: 7am to
9.30pm
All profit is invested back into
the cause at Koto, which is a
school and workplace for
disadvantaged students opposite the Temple of Literature. Authentic Asian and European cuisine comes out of
a visible and frenetic kitchen
and is served over four big
floors of restaurant space.
Its cushioned, comfortable
and has a rooftop terrace,
too. Wrap it yourself nem,
bun bo Nam bo, Koto burgers, pastas, fish and chips,
chicken Kievs and sandwiches all under one homely roof.
MATCHBOX
INTERNATIONAL / VIETNAMESE
40 Cao Ba Quat, Ba Dinh, Tel:
(04) 3734 3098
11am to 11pm
MAY MAN CHINESE CUISINE
PAN-CHINESE
Fortuna Hotel, 6B Lang Ha,
Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3831 3333
fortuna.vn
11am to 2pm, 5.30pm to
10pm
Elegant and luxurious, May
Man has long been regard-
ed as one of the best Chinese restaurants in Hanoi.

Showcasing a selection of
authentic Chinese culinary
delights and Yum Cha at its
finest, with seven private
dining rooms this is a place
to get dressed up for. Has extensive a la carte menus, dim
sum menus and set menus.
Reservations recommended.
MING PALACE
PAN-CHINESE
Sofitel Plaza, 1 Thanh Nien,
Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3823 8888
11am to 2pm, 5.30pm to
10pm
A fine dining destination at
the Sofitel Plaza serving
Cantonese and pan-Chinese
cuisine in a sleek modern
setting with private dining
rooms. With more than 80
dim sum selections available
along with Chinese entrees,
Mings is an ideal eatery for
those hungry for higher end
Chinese fare.
THE BISTRO
FRENCH FLAIR
2/2c Van Phuc, Ba Dinh, Tel:
(04) 3726 4782
thebistro.com.vn
7.30am to 9pm
A modern eatery offering
western cuisine with shades
of French influence in a comfortable setting. Think gardens in a courtyard, drink
and food deals and a warm
indoor atmosphere you
know, just how the French
do it.
FITNESS & YOGA

N SHAPE FITNESS
MID-RANGE FITNESS CENTRE

5th Floor, 71 Nguyen Chi
Thanh, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04)
6266 0495
nshapefitness.vn
HAIRDRESSERS & SALONS

DINH HAIR SALON
HAIR SALON
2A Cua Bac, Ba Dinh, Tel:
0987 718899
MEDICAL & DENTAL

FAMILY MEDICAL PRACTICE
MEDICAL
298 I Kim Ma, Ba Dinh, Tel:
(04) 3843 0748
vietnammedicalpractice.
com
On the little street directly
below Kim Ma, with all sorts
of specialists including OB/
GYN, Pediatricians and ENT.
A Medium-sized practice
with both Vietnamese and international doctors, but they
are used to treating expats.
Also a 24-hour emergency
service.
hanoi
Tel: (04) 3974 3556
vinmec.com
elsewhere
A DONG PHOTO CO
BARS & CLUBS / CAFES / EAT / MEDICAL & DENTAL / RECREATION
RECREATION
KEANGNAM SWIMMING POOL
BARS & CLUBS

CAMA ATK
MUSIC & ARTS BAR

73 Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung,
Tel: 01262 054970
Wednesday to Saturday,
6pm to midnight
With well-poured drinks, a
foosball table, no smoking
and a midnight closing time,
CAMA ATK knows exactly
what it wants to be and
thats refreshing. The space
is a part time venue for
smaller acts and DJs. The
venue is hip, comfortable
and will likely provide the serious drinker with a reliable
place to pull up a stool and
take pulls in a relaxed haven.
HOA VIEN BRAUHAUS
CZECH MICROBREWERY
1A Tang Bat Ho, Hai Ba
Trung, Tel: (04) 3972 5088
VUVUZELA
MODERN BEER HALL

2A Tran Thanh Tong, Hai Ba
Trung
CAF 129
MEXICAN/COMFORT FOOD
129 Mai Hac De, Hai Ba
Trung, Tel: (04) 3821 5342
7.30am to 9.30pm
FRENCH GRILL
JW Marriott Hanoi, 8 Do Duc
Duc, Me Tri, Tu Liem, Tel: (04)
3833 5588
facebook.com/frenchgrill
Every day 6pm to 11pm
With unique decor, contemporary ambience, a walk-in
wine cooler and a delectable seafood bar, this classy
restaurant offers guests
a service experience with
crafted food difficult to find
in the capital.
HIGHWAY 4
VIETNAMESE / ETHNIC
54 Mai Hac De, Hai Ba Trung,
Tel: (04) 3796 2647
10am to midnight
CAFES
KOTO ON VAN MIEU
CONG CAPHE
LEFTIST ARTSY CAFE

152D Trieu Viet Vuong, Hai
Ba Trung
8am to 10pm
With a kitsch, communistdriven theme saturating this
quaint cafe, most patrons
are young Vietnamese bohemians and artsy expats.
Sip on a blended cup of joe
with beans from the Central
Highlands, knock back one
of the many different types
of tea available or sip on
freshly squeezed juice from
the Spartan cups in one of
the hippest cafes on cafe
street. If you like pre-doi
moi nostalgia, here is the
place to go.
HAM HANH
ARTSY CAFE
170 Doi Can, Dong Da
The physical representation of arts, film and music
collective, The Onion Cellar,
this cafe with multiple areas
is as left field as the people
who created it.
RESTAURANT / CAF / BAR

59 Van Mieu, Dong Da, Tel:
(04) 3747 0337
koto.com.au
Monday: 7.00am to 4pm;
Tuesday to Sunday: 7am to
9.30pm
All profit is invested back into
the cause at Koto, which is a
school and workplace for
disadvantaged students opposite the Temple of Literature. Authentic Asian and European cuisine comes out of
a visible and frenetic kitchen
and is served over four big
floors of restaurant space.
Its cushioned, comfortable
and has a rooftop terrace,
too. Wrap it yourself nem,
bun bo Nam bo, Koto burgers, pastas, fish and chips,
chicken Kievs and sandwiches all under one homely roof.
KY Y
JAPANESE RICE EATERY

166 Trieu Viet Vuong, Hai Ba
Trung, Tel: (04) 3978 1386
11.30am to 1.30pm, 5pm to
10.30pm, closed Sunday
SUSHI RESTAURANT
288 Ba Trieu, Hai Ba Trung,
Tel: (04) 3974 5945
asahisushi.vn
11.30am to 2pm, 6pm to

9.15pm
Situated in an art-deco villa
that was once owned by
a Vietnamese mandarin,
this establishment is now
owned and run by perhaps
the most famous French chef
in the country. With modestly
priced set lunches and subtle Vietnamese touches on
the dishes, which primarily
come from carefully selected domestic spices, the up
market establishment lures
in its high class customers
with quality VietnameseFrench fusion cuisine.
rant, bar and lounge blends

the old with the new. Vietnamese fusion cuisine, like
profiteroles with green tea
and caf fillings, a private
chefs table with a kitchen
view, and an extensive wine
list combined with modern
formal styling bring a unique
experience to Hanoi.
WILD LOTUS
CONTEMPORARY ASIAN / VIETNAMESE

55A Nguyen Du, Hai Ba
Trung, Tel: (04) 3943 9342
57 Bui Thi Xuan, Hai Ba
Trung, Tel: (04) 3944 0204
potsnpans.vn
11.30am to late
Brought to you by a group of
former disadvantaged youth
from Hanois own KOTO, this
unique fine dining restau-
ROYAL CITY ICE SKATING RINK
ALPHA LAPTOP
95D Ly Nam De, Hoan Kiem
Tel: 3747 4418
FUONG MAY ANH

5 Trang Thi, Hoan Kiem
Tel: 3213 1568
NGUYEN CAU
ICE SKATING
Royal City, 72A-74 Nguyen
Trai, Thanh Xuan, Tel: 0936
469799
royalcity.com.vn
1 Ba Trieu, Hoan Kiem
X-FACTORY LASER TAG
HI-TECH USA
LASER TAG
77 Hong Mai, Bach Mai, Hai
Ba Trung, Tel: (04) 3627 7106
x-factory-vn.com
DK COMPUTER
29 Ngoc Kha, Ba Dinh Tel:
3772 4772

Kiem. Tel: 3938 6261
PICO PLAZA
Kiem
MEDICAL & DENTAL

POTS N PANS
SWIMMING POOL
Landmark 72 Tower, Pham
Hung, Cau Giay, Tel: (04)
3772 3801
landmark72.com
128 Hang Trong, Hoan

Kiem . Tel: 3826 0732
FRENCH HOSPITAL
INTERNATIONAL HOSPITAL
1 Phuong Mai, Dong Da, Tel:
(04) 3577 1100
hfh.com.vn
VINMEC INTERNATIONAL HOSPITAL

458 Minh Khai, Hai Ba Trung,

simply email us on
well try our best
PROFESSIONAL COMPUTER
CARE AND IT SERVICES
No 3, Alley 8, Hoa Lu,
Hai Ba Trung. Tel: 0983
011081
VIETSAD
34B Ly Nam De, Hoan Kiem
Tel: 3747 8771
SWIMMING POOLS
ARMY HOTEL
33C Pham Ngu Lao, Hoan
Kiem. Tel: 3825 2896
FOUR SEASONS
14 Dang Tien Dong, Dong
Da. Tel: 3537 6250
HANOI CLUB
76 Yen Phu, Tay Ho
Tel: 3823 8115
www.hanoi-club.com
HORISON FITNESS CENTER

40 Cat Linh, Ba Dinh
Tel: 3733 0808
MELIA HOTEL
Kiem. Tel: 3934 3343
OLYMPIA
4 Tran Hung Dao, Hoan
Kiem. Tel: 3933 1049
SAO MAI
10 Dang Thai Mai, Tay Ho
Tel: 3718 3161
SOFITEL PLAZA FITNESS

CENTER
1 Thanh Nien, Tay Ho
Tel: 3823 8888
THAN NHAN
EAT
ASAHI SUSHI
ELECTRONICS
LA VERTICALE
CONTEMPORARY FRENCH
19 Ngo Van So, Hai Ba Trung,
Tel: (04) 3944 6317
verticale-hanoi.com
Vo Thi Sau, Hai Ba Trung,

(Inside the park)
THANG LOI HOTEL

200 Yen Phu, Tay Ho
hanoi
MEDICAL BUFF
BACK-TO-SCHOOL HEALTH TIPS
BY DR. I-AN SANTOS
When preparing for the new school year, here are some
health reminders to consider:
Vaccination Updates
Take this opportunity to review your
childs medical records and check if their
vaccinations are up-to-date, especially
from common infectious diseases such
as influenza, measles and chicken pox.
You can find vaccine recommendations
for different ages from websites such as
the Center for Disease Control (CDC) and
the World Health Organization (WHO). If
you are unsure or need more information,
discuss it with your doctor.
Vision And Hearing Screenings

The ability to see and hear properly helps
children to learn more and perform better
in school. The American Academy of
Pediatrics recommends screening yearly
for children aged three to six years old,
every two years during middle childhood

(ages seven to 10), then once each during
early (11 to 14), middle (15 to 17) and late
(18 to 21) adolescence.
Let School Know if...

Inform the school if your child has an
existing medical condition like asthma,
allergies, diabetes or seizures. Make
sure that the school staff knows
the symptoms to watch out for and
understand your childs medications and
treatment plan. Check that they have
your correct contact details in case of
emergency.
Letting the school know of any food
allergies or physical restrictions will
ensure safe and appropriate meals and
activities for your child.
Reminders for your child:

Pack your childs own water bottle, to
encourage that they keep themselves well
hydrated in school.
Remind them to practise good hand
hygiene, especially before meals, to prevent
illnesses like colds and diarrhea.
To prevent neck and back pains, make
sure backpacks have wide, well-padded
straps and padded backs. They should not
weigh more than 10 to 20 percent of your
childs body weight, and should always be
carried using both straps.
Dr. I-an Santos is a paediatrician working
for Family Medical Practice in Hanoi. For
more advice on any medical topics, visit
Family Medical Practice at 298I Kim Ma, Ba
Dinh, Hanoi, call (04) 3843 0748 or click on
vietnammedicalpractice.com. FMPs
hanoi
business
BUSINESS GROUPS / CORPORATE SERVICES / INSURANCE / INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS / LANGUAGE SCHOOLS /

MANAGEMENT TRAINING / MARKET RESEARCH / RELOCATION & TRACKING AGENTS / SERVICED APARTMENTS
BUSINESS GROUPS
CORPORATE SERVICES
ICHAM
ENDO
Sofitel Plaza, Ground floor, 1

Thanh nien, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04)
3715 2229
icham.org
The Chamber has the main
purpose of undertaking activities to support commercial exchanges with Italy and
to assist economic agents,
as well as to foster the developmew nt of economic
relations and cooperation
among entrepreneurs of
the various countries. The
Chamber will not engage in
commercial activities with
the aim of producing profits.
79, Quang An, Tay Ho, Tel:

(04) 3783 2085
endo.vn
Endo offers garment manufacturing for local resorts,
restaurants, hotels, golf
courses, travel agencies
and apparel shops. They
also manufacture giftware
from polos and hoodies to
keychains, card holders and
menu covers.
CCIFV
Sofitel Plaza, No 1 Thanh
Nien, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04) 3715
2229
ccifv.org
A business group with over
240 members that supports the French business
community in Vietnam by
listening to their members
needs and expectations. Also
promotes Vietnam to French
companies and helps them in
developing their businesses
here.
EUROCHAM
G/F, Sofitel Plaza Hanoi, 1
Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04)
3715 2228
eurochamvn.org
A confederate organisation
with strong ties to national
business associations in its
member countries, Eurocham looks after and provides advice and support
for the business interests of
European Union members in
Vietnam.
INDOCHINA RESEARCH LTD
MARKET RESEARCH
xavier@indochinaresearch.
com
indochinaresearch.com
Active in Vietnam for more
than 20 years, Indochina
Research has the capacity to
run large research projects
in the country, for commercial and social purposes.
SINGAPORE BUSINESS ASSOCIATION VIETNAM

Business Center, Ground
Floor, Fortuna Hotel, 6B
Lang Ha, Dong Da, Tel: (04)
4772 0833
sbav-hanoi.org
INSURANCE
IF CONSULTING
CCIFV/Eurocham, Sofitel
Plaza, 1 Thanh Nien, Ba Dinh,
Tel: (04) 3936 5370
Emergency: 0903 732365
insuranceinvietnam.com
Specialises in medical, employee benefits and personal
lines insurance advice to expatriates. The company has
been operational in Vietnam
since 1994 and offers free
advice and comparative
quotes.
INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS
BRITISH VIETNAM INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL (BVIS)
H3-H4, Hoa Lan, Vincom
Village, Long Bien, Tel: (04)
3946 0435
bvisvietnam.com
CONCORDIA INTERNATIONAL
SCHOOL HANOI
CMC Building, Duy Tan, Cau
Giay, Tel: (04) 3795 8878
concordiahanoi.org
International brand, Concordia, has highly performing
schools in both Hong Kong
and Shanghai at the top tier
of the educational system.
All instructors and teachers
are native English speakers
and admission applications
are accepted throughout
the year.
HANOI INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL

48 Lieu Giai , Ba Dinh
hisvietnam.com
With schooling available for
students studying at the elementary through to secondary levels of education, HIS is
one of the few private, international education options
in the capital. The institution
offers Cambridge IGCSE and
IB Diploma for students at
the secondary level. Located
near the Japanese Embassy.
INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL OF
VIETNAM
6-7 Nguyen Cong Thai, Dai
Kim Urban Area, Dinh Cong,
Hoang Mai, Tel: 3540 9183
www.isvietnam.org
The International School of
Vietnam (ISV) is a not-forprofit, Pre-Kindergarten to
Grade 12 school serving the
international and local community of Hanoi. ISV accepts
students of any nationality
aged 3 and up. ISV offers
an international education
experience. Highly qualified
and experienced international educators are supported by a 21st-century
campus with the latest in
educational technology
plus excellent resources
for learning. Class sizes are
small.
KINDERWORLD INTERNATIONAL
KINDERGARTEN
Unit 9 10, Shophouse
CT17, Ciputra, Tel: (04) 3743
0360
3rd Floor, 49 Hai Ba Trung,
7243
C5-C11, 1st Floor, The Manor Building, My Dinh, Me Tri
New Urban, Tu Liem District,
Tel: +84 4 3794 0209
kinderworld.net
Classes are kept small with
a foreign teacher leading the
class with the assistance of a
Vietnamese teacher according to the teacher-student
ratio. KinderWorld provides
pre school education for
children from 18 months to
below 6 years.
QSI INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL OF

HANOI
#17 Lane, 67 To Ngoc Van,
Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3718 6418
hanoi.qsi.org
With nearly four decades of
experience in international
education, QSI International
School of Hanoi is next in the
long line of quality schools
that have been established
by the Quality Schools International. The institution
specialises in instructing
pre-school and lower elementary age students.
SINGAPORE INTERNATIONAL
SCHOOL (SIS)
2D Van Phuc Diplomatic
Compound, 46 Van Bao, Ba
Dinh, Tel: 3726 1601; Block
C3, Ciputra, Tay Ho, Tel:
3758 2664; Dilmah Building, Duy Tan, Cau Giay, Tel:
3795 1036
www,kinderworld.net/sis
SIS provides international
education for students from

Primary up to University
Foundation Programme. A
strong curriculum combines
the best aspects of the Singaporean, Australian and
Vietnamese curricula, all
taught by qualified teachers.
Runs various co-curricula
activities and prepares
students for internationally
recognised qualifications:
iPSLE, Cambridge IGCSE &
AS/A Level, GAC
rmit.edu.vn
A leading international provider of skills training and
professional staff development, RMIT offers both short
and long-term courses,
customised courses, and
can provide for either on or
off-campus clients. Known
for its Business MBA which
is open to both Vietnamese
and overseas students.
UNITED NATIONS INTERNATIONAL

SCHOOL (UNIS)
CIMIGO
Ciputra International Village,

Tay Ho, Tel: (04) 3758 1551
unishanoi.org
LANGUAGE SCHOOLS
APOLLO
67 Le Van Huu, Hai Ba Trung,
Tel: (04) 3943 2051
Apollo.edu.vn
Established in 1994, Apollo
offers high-quality and costeffective English language
classes including general
English, English for teens,
English for business communication and a pronunciation
clinic. One of the countrys
leading language centres.
BRITISH COUNCIL
20 Thuy Khue, Tay Ho, Tel:
(04) 3728 1922
britishcouncil.org
The cultural arm of the British governments presence
in Vietnam, the BC offers a
variety of English language
courses business writing, corporate training and
general English in a large
learning centre close to West
Lake.
LANGUAGE LINK VIETNAM

62 Yen Phu, Hanoi, Tel: (04)
3927 3399
languagelink.edu.vn
With four schools around
Hanoi, Language Link runs
international English language courses endorsed by
Cambridge University. One of
the top language centres in
the capital.
MANAGEMENT TRAINING
MARKET RESEARCH
142 Le Duan, Dong Da, Tel:
(04) 3518 6696
vietnam@cimigo.com
cimigolive.com
MARKET RESEARCH
com
RELOCATION & TRACKING AGENTS

ALLIED PICKFORDS
Room 302, 12A Ho Xuan
Huong, Tel: (04) 3943 1511
vn.alliedpickfords.com
The international home
moving company helps
make the burden of moving
a lot easier. As the largest
home moving company in
the world, Allied Pickfords
moves over 1,000 families
in over 175 countries every
day. Available with a full
range of services domestic moves, office moves and
storage whether you are
moving within Vietnam or
across the world.
ASIAN TIGERS TRANSPO

Inland Customs Deport Area
(ICD), Pham Hung, My Dinh,
Tu Liem, Tel: (04) 3768 5882
asiantigergroup.com
Asian Tigers Group is committed to its mission of
moving households without
disruption ti family life. They
also offer pre-move advice
regarding customs and
shipping.
G&H MANAGEMENT SERVICES

HKC Building, Suite 701, 285
Doi Can, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04)
3762 3805
ghmsglobal.com
RMIT
Hanoi Resco Building, 521
Kim Ma, Ba Dinh, Tel: (04)
3726 1460
JVK INDOCHINA MOVERS

6 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho, Tel:
(04)3826 0334
jvkasia.com
Focused primarily on the international and local movement of household goods,
JVK is currently a leader in
the field. Has offices in both

Hanoi and Ho Chi Minh City.
SANTA FE RELOCATION SERVICES

Suite 821, Vietnam Trade
Hotel, 14 Tran Binh Trong,
0805
santaferelo.com
With over 150 offices around
the world, Santa Fe offers
local and international moving, pet transportation, relocation services including
home search, orientation,
cultural training, immigration services and records
management. For more information email Vietnam@
santaferelo.com.
SERVICED APARTMENTS
ATLANTA RESIDENCES
49 Hang Chuoi, Hai Ba Trung,
Tel: 0912 239085
atlanta.com.vn
Atlanta Residences fully
serviced apartments have
been created to provide a
space where you can feel
at home. Within walking
distance from Hanois Opera
House and Hoan Kiem Lake,
this building offers a panel of
51 spacious apartments for
you to choose from. The serviced apartments here offer
the luxury of a hotel mixed
with the peaceful comfort
and privacy of your home,
under one roof of course.
FRASER SUITES HANOI

(04) 3719 8877
Located in the West Lake
area, Fraser Suites Hanoi
consists of 186 apartments, from studios to four
bedrooms, which meet any
lifestyle. With a calming and
warm interior feel, each
apartment features all the
latest amenities. 24-hour security surveillance provides
peace of mind.
SEDONA SUITES
No. 96 To Ngoc Van, Tay Ho,
Tel: (04) 3718 0888
sedonahotels.com.sg
SOMERSET GRAND HANOI

49, Hai Ba Trung, Ba Dinh,
Tel: (04) 3934 2342
somerset.com
Internationally-managed accommodation with personalised services and extensive
facilities. 185 fully furnished
apartments, car park, 24hour reception and central
location.
hanoi
BOOK BUFF
FEMINIST WRITING
This month
Bookworms Truong
looks at work by
feminist authors
with a focus on
British novelist and
columnist, Caitlin
Moran
couple of pro-active feminists

in the Bookworm orbit have
suggested we put in a plug for
very popular British author
Caitlin Moran who now has two books on
the UK bestseller lists.
Moran is a columnist for The Times, is 37,
married with two daughters and she writes
with a wry but biting sense of humour.
Her first book How To Be a Woman is a very
hard-hitting memoir and asks women: Do
you have a vagina? Do you want to be in
charge of it? If you say yes to both questions,
congratulations! Youre a feminist.
Moran is open about the debt she owes
Germaine Greers The Female Eunuch in
molding her feminist views, but she presents
her opinions in a way that plucks feminism
out of academia and plonks it delectably
onto the dinner plates of every woman.
She blithely writes about discovering
masturbation, about being the proud
owner of a big, furry muff (and is scathing
about bikini waxing, asking would a sane
mother really want her daughter to grow
up idolizing the Kardashians and spending
loads of hard earned money on depilation).
She describes in graphic detail her own
adventures in childbirth and her, and her
husbands, decision to abort a second
child. She writes about overeating being
an addiction no different to heroin. Shes
totally down on porn and the sleaze factor
and she tells women that pole dancing is a
definite no no. Shes scathing about females
who say things like my boyfriend treats
me alright so I dont need to be a feminist;
who belong to the up to 60 percent of bird
brain western women who say they dont
relate to feminist ideals. She cant see the
point of painful stilettos or thongs that
disappear up smelly bum cracks. She insists
that strident feminism needs big undies.

Morans favourite fashion era was
the 1990s when grunge was big and the
pressure on women to impress and be
ladylike disappeared for a while. At the
time she could dress down in Doc Martens
and an old shirt, and not be told she was
failing as a woman.
Morans feminist outpourings are hitting
a wide mark because they are less about
glass ceilings and quotas in boardrooms
and more about Brazilians, botox and the
many things you dont like having your
vagina called.
Our orbiting feminists say it should
be compulsory reading for all adolescent
females. A lot of men will get absorbed,
too, but most wont want to relinquish their
gender power base
Teenage Angst
Morans latest book, How To Build a Girl, is a
spirited coming of age novel about a pudgy
girl who describes herself at 14 as: fat,
a solid pale fat that makes me look like a
cheap, white fridge-freezer.
Dolly is a typical female adolescent.
Shes a mixture of low self-esteem due
to all the media directed at her gender
cohort and of impatience to jump out
of the confines of the constructs of girlish
innocence that only adults find enchanting.
She becomes a smoker, a drinker and a fast
forward fornicator. Over and over again she
falls in love with some guy whos only after
an easy piece of action. The novel is direct
and to the point about girls tendencies to
concentrate more about what boys think
about them than vice versa. More about the
need to please their partners in bed rather
than figuring out their own pleasurable
preferences though Dolly reaches a few
sensible conclusions about the satisfaction

afforded by smaller penis sizes that will
rock a lot of masculine egos.
Set in the 1990s when Moran was
undergoing her own teenage angst and
paralleling her own beginning involvement
as a precocious writer in the rock music
scene, she has an ability to strip away the
sweetness and cuteness we belatedly put
on the terrifying decade between 12 and 20
years of age. Her huge fan, author Lionel
Shriver states: she manages to evoke in
readers a nostalgia for the vigour, vibrancy
and sense of infinite possibility that
distinguishes those teenage years, but an
enormous relief that it is all over.
Recommendations
Staying with young females and their
preferences, here are two recommendations
from the Twitter Youth Feminist Army a
group of teenage women from around
the world who espouse and support the
feminist aims.
Delusions of Gender by Cornelia Fine is an
outstanding resume of how science can be
sexist and just how deeply this gender bias
goes in our society.
They recommend Margaret Atwoods
1985 dystopian novel and classic piece
of feminist fiction, The Handmaids Tale,
because they feel that it is a striking
portrayal of a society, not too far removed
from our own, which takes oppressive
attitudes to a natural conclusion.
For more information on Bookworm go to
bookwormhanoi.com. Besides their original
store on Chau Long, Bookworm have a second,
smaller shop in Nghi Tam Village in the West
Lake area. Located behind the Sheraton, it can
be found at Lane 1/28 Au Co, Lang Nghi Tam,
Tay Ho
Ho Chi Minh City

BUSINESS BUFF // BODY AND TEMPLE // COFFEE CUP // TOP EATS // THE EMPTY WOK //
A WORLD OF GOOD // KNOW YOUR BUSINESS // FOOD PROMOS // STUDENT EYE
PHOTO BY KYLE PHANROY
HCMC
business
ACCOUNTING & AUDITING / ADVERTISING & MKTG / BUSINESS CONSULTING / BUSINESS GROUPS / CORPORATE GIFTS & SERVICES /
EVENT MANAGEMENT / EXPAT SERVICES / HOUSING & REAL ESTATE / INSURANCE / INTERIOR DESIGN / INVESTMENT & FINANCE /
LANGUAGE SCHOOLS / LEGAL SERVICES / MANAGEMENT TRAINING / MARKET RESEARCH / PHOTOGRAPHY SERVICES / PUBLIC RELATIONS /
RECRUITMENT & HR / RELOCATION AGENTS / SERVICED APARTMENTS
ACCOUNTING & AUDITING COWAN STRATEGIC BRAND PHIBIOUS
DESIGN
GLOBALEYE FINANCIAL ADVISORS

4th Floor, Unit 17, Saigon
Center, 65 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08)
3827 0220
globaleye.com
PRICEWATERHOUSE COOPERS
Saigon Tower, 29 Le Duan,

Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 0796
pwc.com
SAIGON-EXPAT TAX SERVICES
6th Floor, Me Linh Point

Tower, 2 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel:
0938 220 255
vivianwcooper@gmail.com
TMF GROUP
Unit 501, 5th Floor, Saigon

Trade Center, 37 Ton Duc
Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3910
2262
Tmg-group.com
ADVERTISING & MKTG

BBDO VIETNAM
74/3 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3822 6662
bbdoasia.com
16th Floor, Bitexco Office

Tower, 1925 Nguyen Hue,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 3064
cowandesign.com
DENTSU VIETNAM
AB TOWER, 23rd Floor, 76 Le
Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 9005
Dentsu.com.vn
GREY GROUP
404 Vo Van Tan, Q3, Tel: (08)
3929 1450
grey.com/vietnam
INDUSTRIAL DESIGN ASIA
Duong So 12, Tran Nao, Q2,

Tel: (08) 3740 6388
industrialdesignasia.com
MARKETEERS VIETNAM
FPT Tower, 153 Nguyen Dinh

Chieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3933
3493
marketeersvietnam.com
OGILVY & MATHER

12th Floor, Centec Tower,
7274, Nguyen Thi Minh
Khai, Q13, Tel: (08) 3821
9529
ogilvy.com
7th Floor, 11bis Nguyen Gia

Thieu, Q3, Tel: (08) 3933
3377
phibious.com
An independent, creative
led communications company helps brands connect
and grow across Southeast
Asia. Clients include The
CocaCola Company, Asia
Pacific Breweries, Piaggio
and UPI.
PURPLE ASIA
9 Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh
Thanh, Tel: (08) 6277 7050
purpleasia.com
RED | BRAND BUILDERS
Floor 14, Citilight Tower, 45

Vo Thi Sau, Q1, Tel: (08) 3820
0169
red.vn
Long-established branding
consultancy and marketing agency. The Red team
creates and shapes unique
marketing strategies that
add impact to international
and local brands from Viet-
nam to Australia.
RIVER ORCHID
10th Floor HDTC Building,
36 Bui Thi Xuan, Q1, Tel: (08)
3925 2538
riverorchid.com
SAATCHI & SAATCHI

26 Tran Cao Van, Q3, Tel: (08)
3824 1207
saatchi.com
Ranked among the top 100
global advertising agencies,
S&S has worked with over
half of the 50 bestknown
brands in the world, providing advertisement planning,
direct marketing, marketing consulting and graphic
design.
TBWA\VIETNAM
4th Floor, Saigon Finance
Center, 9 Dinh Tien Hoang,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 5315
tbwa.com.vn
BUSINESS CONSULTING
BDG VIETNAM
11th Floor, Capital Place, 6
Thai Van Lung, Q1, Tel: (08)
3823 7858
Bdg-vietnam.com
CONCETTI
33 Dinh Tien Hoang, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3911 1481
Concetti.vn
GRANT THORNTON
ROUSE
6th Floor, Abacus Tower, 58
Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3823 6770
iprights.com
STAR CORPORATE VIETNAM

161A/1 Nguyen Van Thu, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3911 0965
starcorpvn.com
STRASOL GROUP INTERNATIONAL

38 Tran Ngoc Dien, Q2, Tel:
0904 410884
28th Floor, Saigon Trade

Center, 37 Ton Duc Thang,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3910 9100
Gt.com.vn
TRACTUS ASIA LTD
INSPIRED IMAGE
XAGE CONSULTANCY
Villa 15, Duong 58, Phu

Nhuan, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel:
0916 352573
Inspiredimage.co.uk
PRISM INFORMATION
TECHNOLOGY SERVICES
4th Floor, YOCO Building, 41
Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1,
Tel: (08) 7305 0905
prism.com.vn
164 Nguyen Van Thu, Q1, Tel:

(08) 6291 2205
tractus-asia.com
35A-1-2 Grandview, Nguyen

Duc Canh, Q7, Tel: (08) 5412
3402; 31st Floor, Saigon
Thang, Tel: (08) 3911 0454
xageconsulting.com
BUSINESS GROUPS
AMCHAM
New World Hotel, 76 Le Lai,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 3562.
HCMC
CINEMAS
Showcasing the latest
Hollywood blockbusters
and 3D cinematic sensations, chains such as
Megastar Media, Lotte
and Galaxy Cinema offer
the most up-to-date and
modern cinema-going
experiences in Saigon.
For those partial to more
esoteric and independent flicks, smaller outlets such as Cinebox and
Idecaf carry little known
Vietnamese and European
efforts.
CINEBOX
240 Ba Thang Hai, Q10
Tel: (08) 3862 2425
cinebox.vn
LOTTE CINEMA
13th Floor, Diamond Plaza,
34 Le Duan, Q1
Tel: (08) 38227897
3rd Floor, Lotte Mart, 469
Nguyen Huu Tho, Q7
Tel: (08) 3775 2521
lottecinemavn.com
GALAXY CINEMA
230 Nguyen Trai, Q1
Tel: (08) 3920 6688
116 Nguyen Du, Q1
Tel: (08) 3823 5235
246 Nguyen Hong Dao,
Tan Binh
Tel: (08) 3849 4567
galaxycine.vn
IDECAF
31 Thai Van Lung, Q1
Tel: (08) 3829 5451
idecaf.gov.vn
MEGASTAR CINEMA
Level 5, Crescent Mall,
Nguyen Van Linh, Phu My
Hung, Q7
Tel: (08) 5412 2222
Level 10, CT Plaza, 60A
Truong Son, Tan Binh
Tel: (08) 6297 1981
Level 5, Parkson Paragon,
3 Nguyen Luong Bang,
Phu My Hung, Q7
Tel: (08) 5416 0088
megastar.vn
amchamvietnam.com
An independent association
of American and international businesses, the objective
of the American Chamber of
Commerce in Vietnam is to
promote trade and investment between the United
States and Vietnam.
AUSTRALIAN CHAMBER OF COMMERCE

2nd Floor, Eximland Building,
179EF Cach Mang Thang
Tam, Q3, Tel: (08) 3832 9912
auschamvn.org
A licensed foreign business group established to
represent and promote the
interests of Australian businesses operating in Vietnam,
AusCham coordinates topical breakfast seminars, social networking functions,
governmental relations
meetings and charity events.
BRITISH BUSINESS GROUP OF

VIETNAM
3829 8430
bbgv.org
CANCHAM
Room 305, New World Hotel,
76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824
3754
canchamvietnam.org
Open to all nationalities, the
Canadian Chamber of Commerce aims to create an effective network of business
associates together and to
facilitate discussion forums
about business in Vietnam.
NORDCHAM
17th Floor, Petroland Tower,
12 Tan Trao, Q7, Tel: (08)
5416 0922
nordcham.com
PHILIPPINES BUSINESS GROUP

VIETNAM
40/4 Pham Viet Chanh, Binh
Thanh, Tel: (08) 3518 0045
pbgvn.com
SINGAPORE BUSINESS GROUP

6th Floor, Unit 601, Tran Quy
Building, 57 Le Thi Hong, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3823 3046
sbghcm.org
SWISS BUSINESS ASSOCIATION

42 Giang Van Minh, Q2, Tel:
(08) 3744 6996
swissvietnam.com
management and exclusive

venues to make any kind of
event a success.
CORPORATE GIFTS & SERVICES

AMBRIJ VIETNAM LTD
14-16-18 Chu Manh Trinh,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 8364
ambrij.com
ENDO
406/16 Cong Hoa, Tan Binh,
Tel: (08) 6292 2045
endo.vn
Endo offers garment manufacturing for local resorts,
restaurants, hotels, golf
courses, travel agencies
and apparel shops. They
also manufacture giftware
from polos and hoodies to
keychains, card holders and
menu covers.
EVENT MANAGEMENT
CENTERPIECE EVENT ORGANIZERS
Tel: 0906 761190
centerpiece-vn.com
info@centerpiece-vn.com
Centerpiece is an independent event planning company
run by expatriates that can
plan any event from private
parties, to corporate events
to weddings.
EVECOO
Tel: 0988 297990
evecoo.vn
GALA ROYALE EVENT HALL

63 Mac Dinh Chi, Q1, Tel: (08)
3825 6048
galaroyale.com.vn
ONE WORLD TOURISM CO, LTD

268/3 Nguyen Thai Binh, Tan
Binh, Tel: (08) 6299 0880
THE CATERERS
46D Vuon Lai, Tan Phu, Tel:
(08) 3812 6901
thecaterersvietnam.com.vn
Offers everything from canaps and cocktails, buffets
and set menus to barbeques
and wedding catering. Combines excellent food, event
EXPAT SERVICES
COLLIERS INTERNATIONAL VIETNAM

Bitexco Office Building, 7th
Floor, 19-25 Nguyen Hue,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 5665
colliersmn.com/vietnam
CREATION
CHUMS HOUSE
International Plaza Building,

Room 16B8, 343 Pham Ngu
Lao, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 7553
HAPPY HOUSE
CUSHMAN & WAKEFIELD VIETNAM
RESIDENT VIETNAM
Unit 16, 14th Floor, Vincom

Center, 72 Le Thanh Ton Q1,
Tel: (08) 3823 7968
cushmanwakefield.vn
121/21 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08)

3920 7237
32-34 Ngo Duc Ke, Suite 701,
Q1, Tel: 01659 419916
Unit 601 48 Hoa Su, Phu
Nhuan, Tel: (08) 2226 8855
residentvietnam.com
HOUSING & REAL ESTATE

CBRE
12th Floor, Me Linh Point
Tower, 2 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3824 6125
cbre.com
JONES LANG LASALLE

26th Foor, Saigon Trade
Center, 37 Ton Duc Thang
Q1, Tel: (08) 3910 3968
joneslanglasalle.com.vn
Jones Lang LaSalle
(NYSE:JLL) is a professional
services and investment
management firm offering specialized real estate
services to clients seeking
increased value by owning,
occupying and investing in
real estate. As a truly global
firm, they work and collaborate closely with their
colleagues across Asia Pacific and around the world to
bring best-in-class services,
people, and systems to their
clients in Vietnam.
Their offices in Ho Chi Minh
City and Ha Noi offer: Tenant
Representation, Office Leasing, Retail Services, Valuation and Advisory,
Research and Consulting,
Investment Sales and Acquisitions, Residential Agency,
Industrial Agency, Project
and Development Services,
Property Asset Management
Services, Hotel Investment
and Consultancy Services,
Integrated Facilities Management.
EASY SAIGON
Tel: 0932 112694
easysaigon.com
The Easy Saigon website is
a useful real estate website
helping expats to find apartments in Ho Chi Minh City.
Enquiries via their website
are welcome.
KNIGHT FRANK
Suite A, level 7, VTP Office
Building, 8 Nguyen Hue, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3822 6777
knightfrank.com.vn
Founded in 1896, Knight
Frank has grown to become
the worlds largest privately
owned global property agency and consultancy. In Vietnam, they offer commercial,
residential and residential
development services.
Savills Vietnam is a leading

property service provider
in Vietnam since 1995, providing research, advisory
services, residential sales,
commercial leasing, asset
management, retail advisory, valuation, investment
advisory and other services.
SNAP
32 Tran Ngoc Dien, Thao
Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 4282
snap.com.vn
Owners of Snap Caf in District 2, Snap offers a web
based real estate search
service with information on
rental properties all around
the city, as well as an advisory service for those averse
to wading into the internet
depths for their needs.
SOTHEBYS INTERNATIONAL
REALTY
Suite 1905, Bitexco Financial
Tower, 2 Hai Trieu, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3520 2000
sothebysrealty.com.vn
THE NEST
369/6 Do Xuan Hop, Phuoc
Long B, Q9, Tel: 0903 198901
thenest-vietnam.com
Wellknown property
search and real estate
agency with a useful website
listing properties available
for rent and sale, orientated
towards expats. Website is in
English, French and Spanish.
NAMHOUSE CORPORATION
48A Tran Ngoc Dien, Thao
Dien, Q2, Tel: 0989 007700
namhouse.com.vn
Expert in providing rental
properties, constructions
and interior decoration,
especially in District 2. Supports professional services
and aftersales.
INSURANCE
BAOVIET INSURANCE
49D Phan Dang Luu, Binh
Thanh, Tel: (08) 3510 1661
baoviet.com.vn
IF CONSULTING
SAVILLS VIETNAM LTD
Fideco Tower, 18th Floor,
81-85 Ham Nghi, Q1, Tel: (08)
3823 9205
savills.com.vn
IFC Building, 3rd Floor, 1A

Me Linh Square, Q1, Tel: (08)
3827 7362
insuranceinvietnam.com
Independent advisors that
represent top reputable
HCMC
BUSINESS BUFF
INFLUENTIAL GROUPS
n many countries and industries, there

are small elite groups that have almost
absolute control over their specific
jurisdiction. This month I decided to
find some of the lesser-known groups
who wield power over things people use
and buy every day.
The Texas Railroad Commission

This group actually has nothing to do
with railroads, but is instead responsible
for the regulation of the oil, gas, uranium
and coal industries in one of the largest
energy producing regions in the world.
The three-member council set oil prices for
much of the 20th century, and still have
tremendous influence over energy prices
and policies not only in the US, but
worldwide.
Luxottica
Ever wondered why sunglasses in the store
are so expensive, yet you can buy a similar
make on the street for VND50,000? The
reason is the Italian company Luxottica.
Theyve built a near monopoly in sunglasses
and other eyewear, controlling around
80 percent of brands in the market. Ray
Ban, Oakley and Persol are all owned by
Luxottica, but they also make glasses for
luxury brands such as Chanel, Giorgio
Armani, Burberry, Stella McCartney, Versace,
Vogue, Miu Miu, Tory Burch, Donna Karan
and many more.
Yoshida Kogyo Kabushikikaisha

Quickly take off your pants and look at
the zip. Chances are the logo is YKK. They

make 90 percent of all zippers produced
today. YKK controls nearly all aspects of zip
manufacture, from the machines that make
them to the boxes they are shipped in.
Banana Cartels
The banana is the 4th most consumed
agricultural product in the world after
wheat, rice and corn, with over 100 billion
consumed annually. Over 80 percent of the
market is controlled by three groups
Chiquita, Dole and Del Monte.
Mega-Corporations
Nestle, Unilever, Proctor & Gamble, Kraft,
Coca-Cola, Kelloggs, Johnson & Johnson,
General Mills, Mars and PepsiCo control
almost everything you eat and the majority
of your shopping budget in every area
from food to personal care.
As of May, Switzerland-based Nestle has
a market capitalisation of US$239 billion.
They are the biggest food company in
the world, with more than 8,000 brands
worldwide.
Procter & Gamble, owned by Warren
Buffets Berkshire Hathaway holding
company, is valued at US$217 billion. They
are the largest buyer of advertising in the
US. P&G serve an almost unbelievable 4.8
billion people a year with their products.
Netherlands-based Unilever with a
market capitalisation of US$124 billion,
as of May serves a respectable 2 billion
people a year with their personal care, food
and home care products.
BY SHANE DILLON
JPMorgan Chase, Bank of

America, Wells Fargo and Citigroup
In the last two decades, 37 American banks
have merged to become four. They hold a
combined US$7.8 trillion in assets, equal to
about 47 percent of the total US GDP. These
too big to fail bank mergers have actually
increased since the Global Financial Crisis
in 2008. Of the Big Four, only Citigroup has
spent the years since the crisis trimming
assets which, in the world of banking,
are generally considered risks. The others
have bulked up, partly due to absorbing
other banks during the crisis.
The 147 companies Who Own

Everything
Three systems theorists at the Swiss Federal
Institute of Technology in Zurich took a
2007 database listing 37 million companies
and investors worldwide, and analysed
all 43,060 transnational corporations and
shared ownerships linking them. They
discovered that global corporate control has
a distinct bow-tie shape, with a dominant
core of 147 firms radiating out from the
middle. Each of these 147 own interlocking
stakes of one another, and together they
control 40 percent of the wealth in the
global network. A total of 737 companies
control 80 percent.
The top five are: 1 Barclays PLC; 2
Capital Group Companies Inc; 3 FMR
Corporation; 4 AXA; 5 State Street
Corporation.
Shane works in financial services and can be
contacted at shanedillon@bluecross.com.vn
HCMC
medical insurers provide
you with the best suitable
medical cover for individual,
family or company needs.
the team at Tenzing has over

30 years experience providing insurance advice.
INTERIOR DESIGN
PROFESSIONAL PAINTING AND
REMODELING
BLUE CROSS VIETNAM

8th Floor, River View Tower,
7A Thai Van Lung, Q1 Tel: (08)
3821 9908
inquiry@bluecross.com.vn
www.bluecross.com.vn
Blue Cross Vietnam is part
of the Pacific Cross group
of companies with over 60
years experience in providing health and travel insurance to people and businesses who call Asia home.
Their reputation for transparent, honest and reliable
service means they are the
strength behind your insurance. To make sure you are
getting the most out of your
insurance contact them for
a free quote.
IGLOBALASSIST
Tel: 0934 874271
Iglobalassist.com
LIBERTY INSURANCE
15th Floor, Kumho Asiana
Plaza, 39 Le Duan, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3812 5125
libertyinsurance.com.vn
PRUDENTIAL
25th F, Saigon Trade Centre,
37 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3910 1660
prudential.com.vn
TENZING PACIFIC SERVICES

VIETNAM
Huu Nghi Building, 35 Le
Loi, Q1
ten-pac.com
An independent agency representing local and international insurance companies
in Southeast Asia. A trusted
partner for health, employee
benefits and life insurance,
Tel: 0936 330869 (Darren

Hawk)
Thinking about upgrading a
bathroom? Perhaps a new
colour in the living room?
Maybe even a new wood
floor? Professional Painting
and Remodeling can help
with these and many other
projects. Provide international standards of quality
as well as professional and
timely service at reasonable
rates. Call today to schedule
a free evaluation.
INVESTMENT & FINANCE

DRAGON CAPITAL
1901 Me Linh Point, 2 Ngo

Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823
9355
dragoncapital.com
THE ETHICAL INVESTMENT

GROUP
27 Thai Van Lung, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3822 0907
ethicalinvestmentgroup.
co.uk
TOTAL WEALTH MANAGEMENT
66/11 Pham Ngoc Thach,

Q3, Tel: (08) 3820 0623
t-wm.com
VINACAPITAL
17th Floor, Sun Wah Tower,
3821 9930
vinacapital.com
A leading investment fund
management company with
extensive experience in the
emerging Vietnam market.
Manages the Vietnam Opportunity Fund (VOF), which
is a US$839 million investment fund.
LANGUAGE SCHOOLS
ILA VIETNAM
146 Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q3,
Tel: (08) 3521 8788
ilavietnam.com
A foreign-owned education
and training company that
offers a range of educational
programmes, such as English-language tuition, university pathway programmes,
corporate training, teacher
training and overseas study
consultancy and placement
services.
LATELIER
33/19 Quoc Huong, Thao
Dien, Q2, Tel: 0908 381492
latelier-anphu.com
VIETNAMESE LANGUAGE GARDEN

135/10 Nguyen Cuu Van,
Binh Thanh, Tel: 0916 670
771
vietnameselanguagegarden.com
VLS SAIGON
45 Dinh Tien Hoang, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3910 0168
vlstudies.com
Offers courses ranging
from basic conversational
Vietnamese to upper elementary, intermediate and
advanced levels, as well as
special courses including
Vietnamese literature, composition or a 6-hour survival
crash course.
VNC VIETNAMESE LANGUAGE

TRAINING & TRANSLATION
37/54 Tran Dinh Xu, Q1, Tel:
(08) 6678 0914
vnccentre.com
VUS
189 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai,

Q1, Tel: (08) 3925 9800
vus-etsc.edu.vn
LEGAL SERVICES
ALLENS
Suite 605, Saigon Tower, 29
Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822
1717
vietnamlaws.com
BAKER & MCKENZIE

12th Floor, Saigon Tower,
3829 5585
bakermckenzie.com
FRASERS LAW COMPANY

Unit 1501, 15th Floor, The
Metropolitan, 235 Dong Khoi,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 2733
frasersvn.com
Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3911 0454

xageconsulting.com
DRAGON IMAGES
MARKET RESEARCH
CIMIGO
MAYER BROWN JSM

Thanh, Tel: (08) 3822 7727
cimigo.vn
An independent marketing
and brand research specialist operating in the Asia
Pacific region. Services include auditing and optimising research programmes,
knowledge management,
developing marketing plans
and business models and
assessing market opportunities.
17th Floor, Saigon Tower,

3822 8860
mayerbrownjsm.com
GIDE LOYRETTE NOUEL A.A.R.P.I.

18 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08)
3823 8599
gide.com
INDOCHINE COUNSEL
Unit 4A2, 4th Floor, Han Nam
Building, 65 Nguyen Du, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3823 9640
indochinecounsel.com
MANAGEMENT TRAINING
EMBERS ASIA
80-82 Phan Xich Long, Phu
Nhuan, Tel: (08) 3822 4728
embers-asia.com
ERC INSTITUTE VIETNAM

38/ 6G Nguyen Van Troi, Phu
Nhuan, Tel: (08) 6292 9288
erci.edu.vn
com
MEKONG RESEARCH

Thanh, Tel: (08) 6258 6314
mekongresearch.com
NIELSEN
G&H
6th Floor, Yoco Office Building, 41 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 9919
ghmsglobal.com
A 100 percent foreigninvested company focusing on
management services and
consulting with inhouse
programmes to meet the
particular requirements of
its clients. Offers teambuilding and academicbased
business and management
programmes.
XAGE CONSULTANCY
35A-1-2 Grandview, Nguyen
Duc Canh, Q7, Tel: (08) 5412
3402; 31st Floor, Saigon
PHOTOGRAPHY SERVICES
CentrePoint Building, Level

4, 106 Nguyen Van Troi, Phu
Nhan, Tel: (08) 3997 8088
vn.nielsen.com
TNS VIETNAM
3930 6631
Tnsvietnam.vn
With over 11 years in the
marketplace, TNS Vietnam
offers all three major market
research services customisation, access panels
and media monitoring to
a range of local and international clients.
Crescent Plaza, 105 Ton Dat

Tien, Q7, Tel: 01643 172 660
dragonimages.asia
Dragon Images production
studio is a professional team
of photographers, stylists.
shooting administrators,
casting managers and retouchers. They make photos
on various topics, from business to sport.
PUBLIC RELATIONS
MATTERHORN COMMUNICATIONS
Level 5, 273-273B Ben
Chuong Duong, Q1, Tel: (08)
3838 5517
matterhorncommunications.com
Providing public relations
and communications support to international and
local firms operating in
Vietnam. Specialising in
corporate communications,
media relations, corporate
social responsibility and media and issues management
and training.
VERO PUBLIC RELATIONS

7th Floor, 5B Ton Duc Thang,
Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 0462
veropr.com
Helps clients expand their
footprints in Vietnam, Cambodia, Thailand and Myanmar through effective
public relations campaigns.
Services offered include
branding, media relations,
event management, public
affairs and issues / crisis
management.
RECRUITMENT & HR
ADECCO VIETNAM
11th floor, Empire Tower, 26
- 28 Ham Nghi, Q1, Tel: (08)
3915 3430
HCMC
BODY
AND
TEMPLE
STRESS MANAGEMENT
BY PHIL KELLY
tress is the modern day killer.

Stress is making you old,
making you fat, impacting your
productivity at work, affecting
your relationships and getting in the
way of you reaching your optimal
health.
There are different kinds of stress that
impact our lives. Being aware of stress
levels and proactively managing stress
can make a world of difference to both
your health and body composition.
Emergency Situations
Stress caused by emergency situations
is called acute stress, which is our fight
or flight response a response to
an immediate threat. Fighting off an
attacker, being chased by a wild animal,
jumping out of the way of wayward
Vietnam traffic or even competing in
a sport like rugby, football, mountain
biking, kite surfing or weightlifting can
trigger this stress. But its not a bad
thing; acute stress is an important safety
mechanism that allows you to overcome
an emergency situation.
Once you escape or win, the maximal
physiological stress response ends and
your heart rate, blood pressure and
hormones go back to normal. Restorative
processes kick back on and tissue repair
and healing occurs.
The Body that Cried Wolf

Chronic stress happens in the absence of
an emergency and thereforen for longer
periods. We humans have amazing
brains that interpret the world in very
complex ways, which enable us to
continue the stress response by fixating
on problems or situations that we cant
do anything about. The human psyche
experiences feelings of insecurity and
intimidation that cause our acute stress
response to become chronic.
Stress is the bodys way of responding
to a challenge. By not turning off the
stress response, we wallow in a corrosive
bath of hormones.
Lets think of this in terms of a cars
brakes and motor. Acute stress would
be when you slam on the brakes to
avoid hitting something. The brake
pads engage for the short time it takes
to stop the vehicle. The brake pads then
return to a static position away from
friction and are used periodically when
required, allowing the motor to perform
economically.
Chronic stress is like driving with the
handbrake on the brakes are under

constant wear and the motor exposed to
more strain. You will be able to continue
driving, but sooner or later that friction
and strain (chronic stress) is going to
wear out the brakes and potentially
destroy the motor.
Chronic stress will eventually wear out
your adrenal system, as the cars brakes
wear out the motor. Poor energy, poor
ability to sleep, low sex drive, lethargy
and fatigue during normal activities
are a few other common symptoms. In
other words, your get up and go got
up and went! Furthermore, the corrosive
hormones released through chronic
stress can lead to increase blood sugar
(and belly fat), high blood pressure and
metabolic syndrome (an increased risk of
heart disease and diabetes), just to name
a few.
Here are 5 Body Expert tips for managing
stress, to avoid adrenal fatigue and optimise
heath, fitness and vitality:
Get a Lot of Omega-3s

Omega-3s will elevate glutathione
hormone level, and they are particularly
good at protecting the body when

exposed to physical stress.
Eat Antioxidant-Rich Foods

Antioxidant-rich foods provide nutrients
that the body uses to produce enzymes
that effectively detoxify stress hormones,
providing an anti-stress boosting procedure.
Do Yoga and Meditate

Yoga and meditation practice will help
by providing a safe but structured time to
get rid of mental stress. You will be more
body conscious and able to realise when
you are in a stressed state.
Massage
Massage releases endorphins that calm
the peripheral nervous system.
Laugh a Lot
Studies show genuine laughter makes you
more resistant to disease and stress in the
same way high antioxidant levels do.
Phil is founder and master trainer at
Body Expert Systems. Contact him on 0934
782763, at his website bodyexpertsystems.
com or through Star Fitness
starfitnesssaigon.com
HCMC
adecco.com.vn
Adecco is the world leader in
human resources solutions.
Established in Vietnam in
2011, Adecco offers a wide
array of global workforce
solutions and specialises in
finance & legal, sales, marketing & events, IT, engineering & technical, and office.
HR2B/TALENT RECRUITMENT JSC

1st Floor, Thien Son Building,
5 Nguyen Gia Thieu, Q3, Tel:
(08) 6288 3888
hr2b.com
competitive service suitable

for many types of business.
VIETNAMWORKS.COM
130 Suong Nguyet Anh, Q1,
Tel: (08) 5404 1373
vietnamworks.com
RELOCATION AGENTS
AGS FOUR WINDS (VIETNAM)

G.A. CONSULTANTS VIETNAM
CO., LTD.
Ho Chi Minh Office: Room 2B2C, 2nd Floor, 180 Pasteur,
District 1, HCMC.
Ha Noi Office: Room 603, 6th
Floor, 535 Kim Ma Street, Ba
Dinh District, Hanoi.
www.vieclambank.com
info@vieclambank.com
VieclamBank is a brand of
G.A. Consultants Vietnam - a
Human Resources Consulting company with 100% Japan investment. Established
in 2006 in Vietnam, the company focuses on recruiting
executive and senior level,
providing Vietnamese and
Japanese candidates with
experience studying abroad
or working in foreign companies. A quick, effective and
5th Floor, Lafayette De Saigon, 8A Phung Khac Khoan,

Q1, Tel: (08) 3521 0071
agsfourwinds.com
A global leader in international removals and relocations, with 130 offices
globally, we can move your
property to and from any
location.
ALLIED PICKFORDS
12th floor, Miss Ao Dai Building, 21 Nguyen Trung Ngan,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3910 1220
alliedpickfords.com
With more than 800 offices
in over 45 countries, Allied
Pickfords is one of the worldwide leaders in removal services. In Vietnam, Allied also
provides tailored relocation
services.
ASIAN TIGERS MOBILITY

Unit 9.3, Floor 9, Ree Tower,
9 Doan Van Bo, Ward 12,
District 4, HCMC, Tel: (08) 3
826 7799
www.asiantigers-mobility.
com
Asian Tigers is one of the
largest regional move management specialists, with
services including door-todoor moving, housing and
school searches, local and
office moves and pet relocations.
CROWN RELOCATIONS
2nd Floor Coteccons Office
Tower, 236/6 Dien Bien
Phu, Binh Thanh, Tel: (08)
3840 4237
crownrelo.com
JVK INTERNATIONAL MOVERS

1st Floor, Saigon Port Building, 3 Nguyen Tat Thanh, Q4,
Tel: (08) 3826 7655
jvkasia.com
Focused primarily on the international and local movement of household goods,
JVK is a leader in the field.
HCMC
KIDS CLASSES & SPORTS
LOGICAL MOVES VIETNAM
396/4 Nguyen Tat Thanh,
Q4, Tel: (08) 3941 5322
logicalmoves.net
Specialists in international,
local, domestic and office moves for household
goods and personal effects
through our global partner
network. Experts in exporting used scooters that do not
have documentation.
RESIDENT VIETNAM
DANCENTER
53 Nguyen Dang Giai, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519 4490
dancentervn.com
Children and teenagers can enjoy jazz, ballet, hip-hop,
funk, belly dancing, salsa and in multi-level classes at
this modern dance studio.
HELENE KLING OIL PAINTING

189/C1 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: 0903 955780
helenekling.com
INSPIRATO MUSIC CENTER

37 Nguyen Van Huong, Q2, Tel: 0932 737700
Inspirato.edu.vn
KIDS CLUB SAIGON

79/7 Pham Thai Buong, Q7; 27/3 Ha Huy Tap, Q7, Tel:
0908 460267
kidsclubsaigon.com
MINH NGUYEN PIANO BOUTIQUE

94A Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 7691
Minhnguyenpiano.com
PERFORMING ARTS ACADEMY OF SAIGON

19A Ngo Quang Huy, Q2, Tel: (08) 6281 9679
paa.com.vn
Has a range of music-based programmes teaching kids
in anything from guitar and drums to piano, clarinet and
saxophone. Also provides musical assessment and a
mixture of private and group classes.
7th Floor, 6-8 Doan Van Bo,

Q4, Tel: (08) 3826 8850
seal.com.vn
SANTA FE RELOCATION SERVICES

8FL, Thien Son Building, 5
Nguyen Gia Thieu, Q3, Tel:
(08) 3933 0065
santaferelo.com
With over 150 offices around
the world, Santa Fe offers
local and international
moving, pet transportation, relocation services
TATTOO ARTISTS
With tattoos becoming increasingly popular, over
the past few years there
has been an increase in
the number of tattoo studios around the city.
SAIGON MOVEMENT
LAC VIET TATTOO 608
SAIGON SEAL TEAM

55 Nguyen Dang Giai, An Phu, Q2, Tel: 0905 098 279
SAIGON PONY CLUB

38, Lane 42, Le Van Thinh, Q2, Tel: 0913 733360
Saigonponyclub.com
SAIGON SPORTS ACADEMY

28 Tran Nao, Q2, Tel: (08) 7303 1100
saigonsportsacademy.com
International coaches provide training in soccer, basketball, tennis and swimming for children aged four to
16 years and private lessons for children and adults.
Youth soccer league Sundays from 2pm to 6pm in District 7.
TAE KWON DO
BP Compound, 720K Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: 0903 918 149
VINSPACE
6 Le Van Mien, Q2, Tel: 0907 729 846
vin-space.com
CAM LY HOTEL & APARTMENT

656 Cach Mang Thang Tam,
Q3, Tel: (08) 3993 1587
camlyapartment@hcm.
vnn.vn
Dien Bien Phu, Q10

Tel: (08) 3830 4668
106 Pasteur, Q1
Tel: (08) 3821 7068
lacviettattoo.com
SAIGON BODY ART
135 Cong Quynh, Q1

Tel: 0908 443311
saigonbodyart.com
DIAMOND ISLAND LUXURY RESIDENCES

No 01 Street No.104-BTT,
Quarter 3, Binh Trung Tay,
Q2. T: 0968 293388 / (08)
3742 5678
enquiry.hochiminh@theascott.com
the-ascott.com
Diamond Island Luxury
Residences offers 68 fullyfurnished apartments, from
two to four-bedroom units
with spectacular panoramic
views of the city. Each apartment comes with a fullyequipped kitchen, en-suite
bathrooms, separate work
and living areas, a balcony,
modern amenities, elegant
furnishings and carefully
chosen trimmings.
CITYVIEW

3822 1111
cityview.com.vn
INTERCONTINENTAL ASIANA
SAIGON RESIDENCES
Crn. of Nguyen Du & Le Van
Huu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3520 8888
intercontinental.com/saigonres
Adjacent to the InterContinental Asiana Saigon youll
find 260 luxurious and spacious residential suites. The
residences offer panoramic
views of the downtown area.
SAIGON INK
26 Tran Hung Dao, Q1

Tel: (08) 3836 1090
tattoovietnam.com
SAIGON TATTOO
31B Nguyen Du, Q1

saigontattoo.net
SAIGON TATTOO GROUP

81 Bui Vien, Q1
Tel: 0908 573339
xamnghethuat.vn
TATTOO SAIGON
128 Nguyen Cu Trinh, Q1

Tel: 0938 303838
tattoosaigon.com
TATTOO TAM BI
209 Bui Vien, Q1

Tel: 0919 034383
xamphunnghethuat.com
RIVERSIDE APARTMENTS
(08) 3744 4111
Riverside-apartments.com
Over four Saigon Riverbank
hectares, Riverside Apartments combines a resort
lifestyle with the amenities
of a fully serviced-apartment. Located minutes from
downtown by high-speed
boat shuttle.
SEDONA SUITES
65 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822
9666
sedonahotels.com.sg
SHERWOOD RESIDENCE
SAIGON EXPRESS
AGENCY LIMITED
Tel: 01225 636682

morrissokoloff@hotmail.com
Tel: 0987 027 722

saigonmovement@gmail.com
SERVICED APARTMENTS
Unit 601 48 Hoa SU, Phu

Nhuan, Tel: (08) 2226 8855
residentvietnam.com
Customers have the

choice of picking their
own tattoo out of the
many look books on offer
in the studios or bringing
in their own design. Most
of the studios offer bodypiercing services as well.
Pricing depends on size
and style.
PIANO CLASSES
including home search, orientation, cultural training,

immigration services and
records management. Email
Vietnam@santaferelo.com
for info.
NORFOLK MANSION
1719-21 Ly Tu Trong, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3822 6111
norfolkmansion.com.vn
Offers a wide choice of luxurious and modern furnished
accommodation with attentive and discreet service.
Facilities include an outdoor
swimming pool, a gym, sauna
and steam room, as well as
two on-site restaurants.
127 Pasteur, Q3, Tel: (08)

3823 2288
sherwoodresidence.com
Sherwood Residence is a
luxurious serviced apartment property where modern living spaces meet prime
location, comfort and class,
with fivestar facilities and
service.
DELIVERY
BEN STYLE
Tel: 0906 912730
www.vietnammm.com/
restaurants-ben-style
Healthy, calorie-counted
sandwich and deli fare
CHEZ GUIDO
Tel: (08) 3898 3747
www.chezguido.com
Vietnamese, international
fare, pizza, pasta, sandwiches
DOMINOS PIZZA
Tel: (08) 3939 3030
www.dominos.vn
Pizzas, wings, desserts
EAT.VN
www.eat.vn
Delivery service website
for local restaurants
EL GATO NEGRO
Tel: (08) 6660 1577
Californian-style burritos
HUNGRYPANDA.VN
SOMERSET SERVICED RESIDENCES

8A Nguyen Binh Khiem, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3822 8899; 21-23
Nguyen Thi Minh Khai, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3822 9197; 628C
Hanoi Highway, An Phu, Q2,
Tel: (08) 6255 9922
somerset.com
Somerset Chancellor Court,
Somerset Ho Chi Minh City
and Somerset Vista Ho Chi
Minh City serviced residences combine the space
and privacy of an apartment with the services of a
top-rated hotel. They come
with separate living and
dining areas, as well as a
fully equipped kitchen where
guests can prepare a meal
for themselves, their family
and friends.
www.hungrypanda.vn
KFC
Tel: (08) 3848 9999
www.kfcvietnam.com.vn
Fried chicken, chicken
burgers, sides
LOTTERIA
Tel: (08) 3910 0000
www.lotteria.vn
Burgers, fried chicken,
sides
PIZZA HUT (PHD)

Tel: (08) 3838 8388
www.pizzahut.vn
Pizzas, wings, pasta, appetizers
SCOOZI
Tel: (08) 3823 5795
www.scoozipizza.com
Pizzas, pasta, salad, antipasti, desserts
TACO BICH
THE LANDMARK
5B Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3822 2098
thelandmarkvietnam.com
65 serviced apartments located in the city centre overlooking the river. Also has a
comprehensive health club
for tenants and members,
a squash court and a 16th
floor swimming pool.
www.tacobich.com
Homemade Mexican fare
WILLY WOOS
Tel: (08) 3941 5433
www.blackcatsaigon.com
US-style chicken and
waffles
VIETNAMMM
www.vietnammm.com

simply email us on
well try our best
HCMC
downtown
DISTRICT 1
Downtown
Pham Ngu Lao
BARS & CLUBS / CAFES & ICE-CREAM / CLOTHING &

ACCESSORIES / COOKING CLASSES / CRAFTS & FURNITURE / EAT /
FITNESS, DANCE & YOGA / GALLERIES / GROCERIES, LIQUOR &
WINE / HAIRDRESSERS / MEDICAL & DENTAL / SALONS & SPAS
DANCE / NIGHTCLUB
2B-C-D Thi Sach, Q1, Tel: (08)
3825 6124
apocalypsesaigon.com
BEER REPUBLIC
MODERN BEER HALL

92 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q1 Tel:
0945 858034
facebook.com/BeerRepublic
BLANCHYS TASH
RESTOBAR / NIGHTCLUB
0909 028293
Blanchystash.com
BOOTLEG DJ CAF
MINIMALIST CAF BAR

9 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: 0907
609202.
bootlegsaigon.com
Reminiscent of a New York
or London underground
watering hole, this is a great
place to enjoy Mediterranean influenced breakfasts,
lunch by day and a variety of
DJ sets by night.
BOUDOIR LOUNGE
HOTEL LOUNGE BAR

Saigon Sofitel Plaza, 17 Le
Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 1555
LIVE MUSIC / BAR

8 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08)
3829 7699
CUNHOUSE
LOUNGE BAR
Hem 36, Chu Manh Trinh, Q1,
Tel: 0908 033982
DRUNKEN DUCK
EXPAT / SPORTS BAR

58 Ton That Thiep, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3915 2853
Subtle lighting, a pleasant
ambience, a pool table and
darts, this skinny but pleasant expat bar has the feel
of a drinking man's pub. A
place to have fun, drink beer
or spirits and get in with the
party mood. Known for its 15
shooter challenge.
FUSE
TECHNO / DANCE / HIP-HOP

3A Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel:
0919 206461
fuse.vn
GAME ON
SPORTS BAR
115 Ho Tung Mau, Q1 Tel:
(08) 6251 9898
gameonsaigon.com
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EXPAT BAR
3822 2644
Expats keep returning to
this smoky dive bar, largely
due to its amicable service,
brewsky-downing atmosphere, and spirited dart
games. A mainstay in the
local darts league.
District 3
Ba
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Ha
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LIVE MUSIC / WESTERN RESTOBAR

Kumho Asiana Plaza, 39 Le
Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 7595
hardrockcafe.vn
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TOP-END INTERNATIONAL
Park Hyatt, 2 Lam Son, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3824 1234
International dcor blends
seamlessly with local
themes. Style joins forces
with a wide-ranging drink
menu and hip dance tunes to
create one of the most tasteful if pricier bars in Saigon.
COCKTAILS / ROOFTOP
3823 6838
Bromas medieval rooftopcocktail lounge conglomeration is a magnet for the
citys weirdest and coolest
events/random moments.
A sophisticated cocktail
menu and quite possibly the
best lamb burger in town.
Check out their bun bo Hueinspired cocktail.
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District 4
LA HABANA
CUBAN / MUSIC BAR

6 Cao Ba Quat, Q1, Tel: (08)
3829 5180
lahabana-saigon.com
Cuban-themed bar and
restaurant selling an exciting range of Spanish and
Cuban cuisine, as well as a
few German favourites such
as curry wurst and Wiener
schnitzel. Nightly live music
and regular salsa classes.
If youre in need of dense,

soulful atmosphere and
maybe an artisanal cocktail on your way back from
wherever, Last Call is your
stop and fast becoming
that of the similarly inclined.
Great happy hour deals for
early evening starters.
LA FENETRE SOLEIL
FRENCH / JAPANESE RESTOBAR

3824 5994
A seductive watering whole
in a great corner location
thanks to its old Saigon glamour, Japanese-Vietnamese
fusion cuisine, imported
beer, classic cocktails, and
entertaining music events /
DJ sets.
LAST CALL
AFTERHOURS LOUNGE
59 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08)
3823 3122
lastcallsaigon.com
LE RENDEZ-VOUS DE SAIGON
FRENCH BISTRO / WINE BAR

9A Ngo Van Nam, Q1, Tel: (08)
6291 0396
lerendezvousdesaigon.com
With such a meaningful
name - the meeting point
- this wine bistro boasts a
relaxed, friendly ambience,
perfect for unwinding with
an after work drink or to
enjoy time with friends.
Reasonably priced, has a
sharing French-cuisinestyle menu and an extensive
old and new world wine list.
LEVEL 23 WINE BAR
large whiskey selection and

upstairs pool table. Great
pizzas. And for a real treat,
check out their zesty rolls.
LEVEL 23 NIGHTSPOT
PACHARAN
ROOFTOP LOUNGE BAR

Level 23, Sheraton Saigon
Hotel and Towers, 88 Dong
Khoi, Q1 Tel: (08) 3827 2828
sheratonsaigon.com
LOUNGE BAR / NIGHT CLUB

Khoi, Q1 Tel: (08) 3827 2828
sheratonsaigon.com
LUSH
PROGRESSIVE / MAINSTREAM
3824 2496
lush.vn
OBRIENS
IRISH BAR / INTERNATIONAL

74/A3 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3829 3198
irish-barsaigon.com
This Irish-themed sports
bar with classic pub dcor
is widely appreciated for its
excellent international fare,
SPANISH RESTOBAR / LIVE MUSIC

97 Hai Ba Trung , Q1, Tel: (08)
3825 6024
pacharansaigon.com
Legs of Iberian ham hang
from the ceiling in the
downstairs bar of this multistorey homage to everything
Spanish. Regular first-floor
live music and excellent eats
makes it a mainstay for the
wining, dining and tapaseating crowd.
PHATTYS
AUSTRALIAN / SPORTS
46-48 Ton That Thiep, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3821 0796
phattysbar.com
From its roots as the famed
HCMC
COFFEE CUP
HIPENCIL STUDIO AND CAF
iPencil was one of those good

ideas that started in University,
thought up by a group of
seniors staying up late to make
claymation videos about the adventures
of a pencil, a robot maid and a host of
other characters some humanesque
and others not so much. (Think Gumby,
creepy pace and all.) Walking into the
HiPencil Studio and Caf, I found a
group of kids transfixed on an episode
wherein pencil and his lady friend were
creaming another set of characters in a
game of volleyball. One kid stood up and
put his tiny hand on the screen, while a
girl tumbled off of the indoor swingset
and started to cry.
The whole place was brightly lit, and
the playroom was painted like a giant
box of crayons had exploded on the white
walls. The menu special of the month
was a hamburger and spaghetti set, and
the girl working there took my order
(black iced tea) with a scowl. She gave me

VND27,000 in change (all in VND1,000
notes), and then apparently forgot that
Id ordered anything as I sat there for 10
minutes before having to walk back up
and ask her about it. One sip showed
shed forgotten the khong duong part of the
conversation as well.
The Serious Playroom

Kids were crawling all over each other and
I was starting to feel way out of place. It
was then that one of the owners stood up,
clapped her hands and invited everybody
up to the studio on the second floor where
the show is made.
The studio also acts as a workshop where
kids can learn to make their own stopmotion cartoons. It looked like the real deal:
boxes of clay and stuffed toys, top-dong
cameras for filming, and computers where
the kids could edit their work down to a
working episode.
I wandered away from the workshop

and up through the other floors, which
consisted of another editing room, a
business office and an empty rooftop.
Not bad for kids who just a few years
ago were freaking out about their senior
animation project.
Now they have four seasons hosted on
their website, xinchaobutchi.com, a range
of toys for aspiring young cartoonists and
this caf. Walking back down past the
workshop, it occurred to me that I hadnt
seen a group of children so quiet and
focused on something in a long time.
Downstairs was empty at this point,
allowing the Word team a chance to really
give that indoor swingset a try.
Gumby was cool, but all of this is way
cooler. HiPencil offers parents a chance to
kick back at the caf, while their kids get to
play with their imagination. Matt Bender
HiPencil Studio and Caf is at 150 Duong
D2, Binh Thanh, Ho Chi Minh City
HCMC
Caf Latin, Phattys has become the go-to,
Aussie beer-guzzling / sports viewing emporium, showing everything from international
cricket to Aussie rules and serving an array
of pub grub favourites.
SAIGON SAIGON
HOTEL MUSIC BAR

9th floor, Caravelle Hotel, 19-23 Lam Som
Square, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 4999
caravellehotel.com
STORM P
DANISH / INTERNATIONAL
5B Nguyen Sieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 4738
Stormp.vn
THE CUBE BAR
HIP RESTOBAR
31B Ly Tu Trong, Q1 Tel: 0903 369798
facebook.com/thecubesaigon
A sleek, industrial looking restobar with edgy
dcor and just a hint of Spanish style. Tapas,
sangria, Iberian-influenced cocktails and an
emphasis on all things Latin.
THE ORIENT
SPORTS / LIVE MUSIC BAR

24 Ngo Van Nam, Q1
facebook.com/theorientbarsaigon
An attractive, spacious, brick-wall interior,
a long bar, high table seating, big screens, a
pool table and live music. A great venue for
a few beers and more.
VASCOS
MUSIC / LOUNGE BAR

The Square, 74/7D Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3824 2888
Vascosgroup.com
A veteran fixture of Saigons nightlife scene,
Vascos offers a softly lit downstairs patio,
and an upstairs Blue Room chill out lounge
area with regular live music.
Has a darts area out back and is a popular

space for watching the live English Premier
League.
WINE BAR 38

38 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 3968
With a huge selection of self-imported wines
from Bordeaux, this classy but contemporary venue is a wine bar downstairs, and a
lounge on the first floor. Has a French-Asian
menu paired to all the wines, with a huge selection of the good stuff sold by the glass.
WINE EMBASSY

13 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 7827
wineembassy.com.vn
A two-storey, contemporary-designed wine
bar serving 30 wines by the glass, all at reasonable prices. Has an excellent food menu
to complement the old and new world wines.
XU
CAF / LOUNGE BAR

71-75 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 8468
xusaigon.com
This iconic upmarket downtown bar is known
for its cocktails and wine list. It serves a
range of international and Vietnamese dishes
to be enjoyed in its richly decorated interior.
Regular DJ nights.
ZANZBAR
LOUNGE BAR & RESTOBAR

19-21 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 7375
Creative cocktails, an extensive wine list,
subtle lighting, international tapas and a laidback, lightbox-lit ambience are all part of the
offering at the all-new ZanZBar on the river
end of Dong Khoi. Popular with a businessy,
international crowd.
VESPER BAR
INTERNATIONAL
Landmark Building, 5B Ton Duc Thang, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3822 9698
Headed up by well-known chef Andy Ertle,
Vesper Bar is a sophisticated yet down-toearth wine and cocktail bar. Serving creative,
Japanese-influenced tapas to supplement
the drinks, the subtle lighting and loungestyle atmosphere makes this a great drinking
and dining venue
VINO
WINE BAR / TAPAS

The Square, 74/17 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel:
(08) 6299 1315
1 Duong 2, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 6281 9059
vinovietnam.com
This downtown wine shops terrace is a
popular after work drinking spot, where
one can select from 10 wines by the glass,
a range of imported beer, and an excellent
tapas menu. Alternatively, buy from the
great selection of wines in the shop and
pay a small corkage.
VINYL BAR
MUSIC & SPORTS BAR

70 Pasteur, Q1 Tel: 0907 890623
vinylbarsaigon.com
A small but popular bar with all the shenanigans of the nightlife scene set to a
backdrop of classic 60s, 70s and 80s tunes.
INTERNATIONAL
Metropolitan Building, 235 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3508 7285
coffeebean.com.vn
Large portioned coffee lures customers into
the flagship store of this international caf
chain. The contemporary, yet generic atmosphere is bolstered by comfortable seating
and a menu to satisfy any sweet tooth.
CREPERIE AND CAF
FRENCH
5 Han Thuyen, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 9117
Known for its fantastic street-side seating
opposite the park on Le Duan and savoury
crepes, this hang out caf will impress you
with its location as much as its food.
FANNY
ICE CREAM PARLOUR / CAFE

29-31 Ton That Thiep, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 1633
fanny.com.vn
GIVRAL CAF
INTERNATIONAL
80 Ham Nghi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3915 3704
saigongivral.com
GOODY

133 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 9339
GUANABANA SMOOTHIES
CONTEMPORARY JUICE BAR

23 Ly Tu Trong, Q1 Tel: 0909 824830
guanabanasmoothies.com
An American-style juice bar and caf dedicated to healthy, nutricious smoothies that
avoid the local obsession with sugar and
CAFES & ICE-CREAM
VELVET
DANCE/HIP HOP
26 Ho Huan Nghiep, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 2262
velvet.bar.saigon@gmail.com
COFFEE BEAN & TEA LEAF
AU PARC
EUROPEAN / MEDITERRANEAN
23 Han Thuyen, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 2772
Auparcsaigon.com
Set in a shophouse-style building, Au Parc
offers a chic colonial space to indulge in sensibly priced European and Mediterranean
food complemented with good coffee and
excellent desserts.
BACH DANG

26-28 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 2707
BASKIN ROBBINS
ICE CREAM PARLOUR

1 Truong Dinh, Q1, Tel: (08) 7308 3131
baskinrobbins.vn
CASBAH
MIDDLE EASTERN
59 Nguyen Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 5130
This secluded Middle Eastern coffeehouse
has both cozy indoor and rooftop seating to
admire views of the city. With such a prime
downtown location, expect prices to match.
CENTRO
ITALIAN / CONTEMPORARY CAFE

11-13 Lam Son Square, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827
5946
Conveniently located near the Caravelle Hotel, this casual cafe serves one of the best
lattes in town with a mid-range Italian menu
including panini and other typical fare.
HCMC
condensed milk. A pleasant,
contemporary environment
adds to the theme.
HAGEN-DAZS

11 Han Thuyen, Q1, Tel: (08)
6683 5899; 20 Le Thanh Ton,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 0066
LUSINE
CONTEMPORARY / FRENCH
First Floor, 151 Dong Khoi,
Q1, Tel: (08) 6674 9565; 70B
Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3521
0703
lusinespace.com
French-style wooden decor
compliments the spacious,
whitewashed contemporary
interior of LUsine. A simple,
creative menu combines
with reasonably priced coffee, and a fashion store and
art gallery out back. Second
location on Le Loi.
MAGONN THE CAFE

(08) 3822 9672
magonn.vn
Nested above Magonn boutique, is a bright and inviting space for everything
from drinks to bites. Coming
with a crowd? The attic is a
quaint little spot to fit a cozy
gathering.
M2C CAFE
44B Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08)
3822 2495
facebook.com/m2ccafe
At M2C (Modern Meets
Culture), everything gets a
touch of modernity. From
the rich menu of Vietnamese food and drinks, shows
immense local culture, done
with a modern flare. Be seen
here at one of the latest popular joint in town.
THE MORNING CAFE

2nd Floor, 36 Le Loi, Q1, Tel:
0938 383330
themorningcafe.com.vn
Have a book to read? Pick a
bright spot by the window
and get snuggly with the
comfy upholstery in this
second-floor cafe. With a
cup of well-brewed coffee, accompanied by some
background jazz, it is an afternoon well-spent.
THE PRINT ROOM
verted into an eco-boutique

which exclusively retails
the complete Anupa leather
and semi-precious jewellery range as well as other
unique eco brands such as
bamboo eyewear, pendant
scarves and cushion covers.
DEBENHAMS
ADULT & CHILDRENS WEAR

Vincom Center, 70-72 Le
Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291
7592
GALLERY VIVEKKEVIN
TRUNG NGUYEN
DESIGN & JEWELLERY

6291 8162
galleryvivekkevin.com
9.30am to 8pm
This retail-cum-gallery
space specialises in contemporary and exclusive
handcrafted jewellery made
from handpicked gemstones
and raw materials. Exhibitions and gallery talks run
every month.
ZEST BISTRO & CAF
GEISHA & GEISHAS COFFEE AND

TEA HOUSE
CONTEMPORARY CAFE
3823 4990
Second-storey coffeehouse
offers a quiet atmosphere
to chill out or read from
their book-nook collection.
Comfortable couch seating,
open table space and a cappuccino costs VND40,000.
INTERNATIONAL VIETNAMESE
80 Dong Khoi, Q1
trungnguyen.com.vn
INTERNATIONAL
5 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08)
3911 5599
This two-storey building with
a mezzanine level boasts an
industrial style complex with
block walls, steel structures
and huge glass windows.
The mid-range menu offers
over 40 options from appetizers to desserts.

ANUPA ECO LUXE
LEATHER & JEWELLERY

9 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822
2394
anupa.net
Monday to Sunday, 9am to
8pm
This centrally located unique
boutique has been con-
CASUAL & EVENING WEAR

3829 4004
Contemporary ranges of
casual and evening wear
fused with Asian designs.
The apparel includes floral
dresses, jean skirts, printed
tees and street-style bags.
Enjoy a cup of coffee at their
caf after.
GINKGO
VIETNAM-THEMED CLOTHING
10 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3521
8755
ginkgo-vietnam.com
Quality, original, Vietnamthemed tees are the showpiece at this airy French-run
store. Designs are inspired
by anything from the Vietnamese flag, local telecom
wires and motorbikes to

creative, Siddharta-style
imagery.
IPA-NIMA
BAGS & ACCESSORIES

77-79 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08)
3822 3277; 71 Pasteur, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3824 2701
ipa-nima.com
9am to 9pm
LUSINE
LIFESTYLE / ACCESSORIES
First floor, 151 Dong Khoi,
Q1, Tel: (08) 6674 9565
lusinespace.com
Exclusive labels, elegant and
sophisticated clothing and
casual high-quality cottons
are stocked at this boutique/
caf. Lifestyle accessories
include shoes, homewares,
knickknacks, cameras, stationery and a range of vintage bicycles.
MANDARINA
TAILOR-MADE SHOES
(08) 3827 5267
MR & MRS SMITH
FACTORY OUTLET
(08) 3821 8019
9am to 9pm
This designer fashion outlet
sells a variety of clothing and
shoes produced in Vietnam.
All designs are brand new,
delivered from the factory
weekly and sold at factory
outlet prices.
SONG
ASIAN / FRENCH BOUTIQUE

1st Floor, Saigon Centre, 65
Le Loi, Q1; 75 Pasteur, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3914 4088
asiasongdesign.com
T&V TAILOR
TAILORS
39 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08)
3824 4556
triciaandverona.com
VESPA SHOP
VESPA PRODUCTS / HELMETS
Unit 66, Saigon Square, 7-9A
Ton Duc Thang, Q1
Stocks a wide range of Vespa-inspired tidbits and memorabilia including t-shirts,
riding gear, Italian helmets,
Respro face masks, DVDs,
books, bags, magazines,
posters and more. Rental
scooters and bikes available.
COOKING CLASSES
SAIGON COOKING CLASSES BY
HOA TUC
3825 8485
saigoncookingclass.com
Learn to cook quality Vietnamese cuisine with local specialist Hoa Tuc. The
three-hour lesson, conducted by an English-speaking
Vietnamese chef, includes a
trip around Ben Thanh Market to gather fresh ingredients for the class.
VIETNAM COOKERY CENTRE

Suite 45, 4th Floor, 26 Ly Tu
Trong, Q1,Tel: (08) 3827 0349
vietnamese-cooking-classsaigon.com
CRAFTS & FURNITURE

BELLAVITA
HIGH-END FURNITURE
Saigon Centre, 65 Le Loi, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3821 4201
bellavitafurniture.com
BOCONCEPT
DANISH FURNITURE
68-70 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08)
3824 6604; The Crescent
Mall, 101 Ton Dat Tien, Q7,
Tel: (08) 5413 7357
boconcept.vn
DIABOLO
FURNITURE & ACCESSORIES

13 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: (08)
3825 1803
9am to 8pm
EM EM
SOUVENIRS
38 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1, Tel: (08)
3829 4408
8am to 9.30pm
MEKONG CREATIONS
FAIR TRADE CRAFTS

35-37 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel:
(08) 2210 3110
mekong-creations.org
NGUYEN FRERES
NIK-NAKS / CRAFTS
3823 9459
8am to 8pm
NINH KHUONG EMBROIDERY
EMBROIDERED PRODUCTS
3827 9079; 42 Le Loi, Q1.
(08) 3824 7456
ninhkhuong.vn
SAPA
ETHNIC ACCESSORIES / SOUVENIRS

69 Dong Khoi, Q1
MEKONG QUILTS
HAND-MADE QUILTS
1st Floor, 68 Le Loi, Q1, Tel:
(08) 2210 3110
mekong-quilts.org
NHA XINH
HOME FURNISHINGS
2nd Floor, Saigon Centre,
65 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821
6115
www.nhaxinh.com
THE FURNITURE WAREHOUSE
EUROPEAN-STYLE FURNITURE
3B Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel:
(08) 6657 0788
thefurniturewarehouse.
com.vn
EAT
3T QUAN NUONG
VIETNAMESE BBQ
Top Floor, 29 Ton That Thiep,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 1631
HCMC
AL FRESCOS
INTERNATIONAL
27 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 38238424
alfrescosgroup.com
The downtown outlet of one of Vietnams
most successful restaurant chains, Al
Frescos offers international, Australian-influenced comfort fare in a pleasant environment with efficient, friendly service to match.
Excellent delivery service.
ASHOKA
NORTH INDIAN / CHINESE INDIAN

17/10 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 1372
33 Tong Huu Dinh, Q2, Tel : (08) 3744 4177
ashokaindianrestaurant.com
Long-running, award-winning Indian restaurant famed for its excellent kebabs, creamy
curries and Chinese-Indian fare.
AU PARC
EUROPEAN / CAF
23 Han Thuyen, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 2772
auparcsaigon.com
Consistently tasty European caf fare
think deli-style sandwiches, salads and
mezzes, plus coffees and juices served at
a popular park-side Le Duan location with
classic cream and green-tiled dcor.
blackcatsaigon.com
Creatively named burgers, tasty Vietnamese-styled sandwiches, spiced up cocktails,
mains and more, all served up with a Californian edge at this small but popular twostorey eatery close to the river.
elgaucho.com.vn
A pleasant downtown eatery mixing an
Argentinian steakhouse theme with pork,
chicken, lamb, homemade spicy sausage,
skewers, burger dishes and everything that
can come off a grill.
BLANCHY STREET
GANESH
JAPANESE / SOUTH AMERICAN

The Courtyard, 74/3 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3823 8793
The work of former Nobu chef Martin Brito,
the Japanese-South American fusion cuisine
at Blanchy Street is among the tastiest and
most unusual in the city. All complemented
by fresh, contemporary decor and a leafy
terrace out front.
BOMBAY INDIAN
INDIAN MALAY
57-59 Ham Nghi, Q1, Tel: 0903 863114
BROTZEIT
GERMAN / RESTOBAR
Level 1, Kumho Link, 9 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08)
3822 4206
brotzeit.co/kumholink
BUN CHA HA NOI
BUN CHA
26/1A Le Thanh Ton, Q1
CENTRAL PARC BANH MI
BAHDJA
87-89-91 Ho Tung Mau, Q1, Tel: 0122 763
1261
bahdjarestaurant@gmail.com
Located just beneath Au Lac Saigon Hotel,
Bahdja is Saigons first ever Algerian restaurant, serving authentic, multi-ethnic Berber
North African and Mediterranean cuisine
cooked and served in a traditional Algerian
style. Best experienced in a group, this small
but pleasant restaurants soothing ambience
is matched by the owners genuine hospitality
and complimented by an array of tasty tajines
and couscous-based dishes. Make sure to
try the excellent Moroccan wine, too.
BARBECUE GARDEN
7 Bis Han Thuyen, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8549

Part of the Au Parc group, this miniscule,
New York-themed sandwich shop does
creative lunchtime fare at excellent prices
think baguettes, wraps, focaccia and bagels.
Excellent delivery service.
CIAO BELLA
NEW YORK-ITALIAN
11 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 3329
saigonrestaurantgroup.com
New York-style Italian restaurant offering
a range of tasty and affordable antipasti,
pastas, and pizzas. Friendly staff and rustic
bare brick walls adorned with Hollywood film
legends make for a relaxed and attractive
setting.
CORSO
NORTH / SOUTH INDIAN

38 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 4786
ganesh.restaurant.vn@hotmail.com
The ubiquitous mint sauce is thick and
creamy and the curries are both authentic
and smoky. Ganesh is rated by many as the
best Indian in town. Very friendly service.
GOLDEN ELEPHANT
GOURMETS DELIGHT
LOLIVIER
ROAST KITCHEN CANTONESE

Unit 15, 1/F, Kumho Asiana Saigon, 39 Le
Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3521 8181
gourmetsdelight.com.vn
GRILLBAR
AIRCON STREETFOOD
122 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 7901
facebook.com/grillbareaterycafe
Take a New York-style industrial atmosphere, add to it a range of grilled dishes,
typical of the barbecue fare youd find on
the street, and then add in three types of rice
and a range of organic products. Close to Ben
Thanh Market, this is com binh dan
The Square, 74/7 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08)
3825 1676
Highly rated restaurant with stunning outdoor terrace. Specialities include pink pomelo squid and crab salad, mustard leaf prawn
rolls, fishcake wraps and barbecue chicken
in ginger, onions and a lime leaf marinade.
HOANG YEN
PAN-VIETNAMESE
7 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 1101
HOGS BREATH CAF
BEIRUT
DRAGON NOODLE
INAHO
ELBOW ROOM
JASPAS WINE & GRILL
JAPANESE NOODLES
29 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3521 0008
BIBI@ALIBI
5A Nguyen Sieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 6257
The legendary chef Bibis newest creation, a
convivial restaurant serving Mediterranean
cuisine using fresh products bought early
morning at the market by Bibi himself. Delicious meats and fish dishes together with the
famous tarte tatin.
AMERICAN
52 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 4327
elbowroom.com.vn
The comfort food on offer at this striking USstyle diner ranges from meatball baguettes
to chilli burgers, pizzas, blackened chicken
salads and a selection of more expensive
international mains.
BLACK CAT
EL GAUCHO
AMERICAN
13 Phan Van Dat, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 2055
5D Nguyen Sieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 1879
SUSHI / SASHIMI
4 Chu Manh Trinh, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 0326
INTERNATIONAL FUSION
The Square, 74/7 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08)
3827 0931
Alfrescosgroup.com
Although a chain restaurant, the international offerings here are consistently good
and creative. Excellent service, an attractive
outdoor terrace area, and a good kids menu.
Check out their pepper steaks.
KABIN
12 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 1036
FRENCH/MEDITERRANEAN
Sofitel Saigon Plaza, 17 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08)
3824 1555
sofitel.com
Exuding a southern Gallic atmosphere with
its tiled veranda, pastel-coloured walls and
ficus trees, this traditional French restaurant
has quarterly Michelin star promotions and
an award winning pastry team.
LA BETTOLA
HOA TUC
BASILICO
LEBANESE
The Courtyard, 74/13D Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3822 2188
CONTEMPORARY THAI FUSION

Level 1, Kumho Link, 39 Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08)
3823 4423
Modern Thai fusion restaurant serving Thai
classics alongside tom yam cappuccinos and
more. Koh Thais creative cocktails merge
Thai flavours with local seasonal fruits and
herbs.
LE BANH MI
Ground Floor, Bitexco Financial Tower, 2 Hai
Trieu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3915 6066
hogsbreathcafe.com.vn
Mixing hearty pub grub such as burgers, salads and prime rib steaks with a sports bar
atmosphere, this Australian chain also offers
regular promotions and a 4pm to 7pm happy
hour. Excellent outdoor terrace.
Ground Floor, Kumho Plaza, Cnr. Nguyen Du
and Le Van Huu, Q1, Tel: (08) 3520 9099
KOH THAI
CLASSIC THAI
34 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8554
saigonssk@vnn.vn
STEAKHOUSE / INTERNATIONAL
117 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 5368
norfolkhotel.com.vn
Although a hotel restaurant, the enticing
range of US and Australian steaks plus great
grill and comfort food menu in this contemporary eatery make for a quality bite. Decentsized steaks start at VND390,000.
VIETNAMESE / BARBECUE
135A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823
3340; 134-136 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q1
barbecuegarden.com
Thang. Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 0033

marriott.com
Offers authentic, gourmet Cantonese cuisine
in an elegant, classic setting, with striking
dcor and the bonus of views over the Saigon River. Dishes range from VND80,000 to
VND900,000.
CANTONESE
Renaissance Riverside Hotel, 815 Ton Duc
LITTLE ITALY
84 Ho Tung Mau Q1, Tel: (08) 3914 4402
labettolasaigon.com
Located in the heart of Saigon, La Bettola is
the only restaurant in town managed by two
Italian chefs and an Italian waiter. A woodfired pizza oven, a downstairs bar and a
stylish, elegant setting on the second floor
are part of the mix. As is the home-made
mozzarella, ricotta cheese, ravioli magro,
tortelli mushrooms, pappardelle and mascarpone cheese for the tiramisu, which is
made fresh every day. Has a great selection
of Italian wine.
LA CUISINE
FRENCH / MEDITERRANEAN
48 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 2229 8882
lacuisine.com.vn
This intimate, open-kitchened restaurant
bathed in white specialises in a mix of contemporary Mediterranean and French cuisine. Has a small but well thought out menu,
backed up with an extensive wine list.
LA HOSTARIA
TRADITIONAL ITALIAN
17B Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 1080
lahostaria.com
This downtown hideaway with rusticstyle
decorative trawls features fresh, light regional cuisine from across Italy. Try the carpaccio misto di pesce and agnello dantico.
Also specializes in excellent wood-fired
pizzas.
LE BOUCHON DE SAIGON
CLASSIC FRENCH / EUROPEAN FUSION

40 Thai Van Lung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 9263
lebouchondesaigon.com
A sociable and popular French bistro serving up 100 percent organic, traditional Gallic
staples such as French onion soup, escargot,
HCMC
TOP EATS
STICKY FINGERS GRILL
here is an art to eating ribs. I have

a special T-shirt in my closet that
I use only for this purpose and
its basically a wearable napkin.
When getting down to some serious ribs,
there is no time for pointless etiquette.
Ribs are comfort food, and comfort food
is meant to be messy.
North American barbecue cuisine has
recently taken off in Saigon, with spots
such as Quan Ut Ut drawing trendy crowds
of meat lovers every night. But if you prefer
sofas to stools and your TV to traffic, the
new delivery-only Sticky Fingers Grill will
bring deliciousness right to your door.
Sticky Fingers prepares their ribs in
the time-honored tradition one expects
when donning food-specific clothes. The
owner, a friendly Canadian named David,
proudly explains, We slow-grill our ribs
for eight hours, then we rub them down
with the sauce, then you eat them. When
I ask him why the prep work is so timeconsuming, he replies simply, It tastes
better.
Primeval
I figured a man of such few words must
grill a mean rack of ribs, and I was not
Photo by Kyle Phanroy
disappointed. Sticky Fingers pork ribs

(VND150,000) are so tender and succulent
youd slap your grandma if she asked for
a bite. It would have been an insult to pick
at such ribs with a fork; instead, I clutched
them in my bare hands and gnawed like a
ravenous caveman. In the aftermath, with
my face, palms and upper torso covered
in homemade barbecue sauce, I realised
through the fog of my meat coma that I had
neglected the side dishes.
Corn on the cob (VND30,000) is a
necessary complement to any meal of
barbecued meats, because it is technically
a vegetable and therefore good for you.
Sticky Fingers gets all its produce from
local farms, and even an undiscerning
foodie can taste the freshness. Nothing
canned, nothing frozen, nothing from a
bottle, David says proudly. Rubbed with
a little bit of butter and a pinch of salt, the
bright yellow kernels popped off the cob
with a refreshing crispness. Each morsel
lodged in my molars was a pleasant
reminder that Id eaten something healthy
for lunch.
I saved Lucys Infamous Potato Salad
(VND30,000) for last a recipe given by
a friend back home, who promised David
grave bodily injury if he ever used it

outside of Saigon. Shed probably kill me,
he says, and not without reason. Made
from scratch and seasoned to perfection,
the hefty chunks of fork-smushable potato
would be a top-seller in any city. Best to
keep the competition overseas.
As I slurped up the elusive dregs
of my blueberry-raspberry smoothie
(VND45,000), I felt a twinge of remorse
for the menu items I didnt get to try like
the pulled pork poutine (VND95,000), a
decadent French-Canadian dish topped
with gravy, French fries and cheese curds,
or New York Citys holiest of sandwiches,
the hot pastrami (VND135,000) (Editors
note: its righteous).
Soon Sticky Fingers will offer even more
choices there are plans to add a selection
of gourmet grilled cheese sandwiches to
the menu, and David hopes to expand
into a physical location in the future.
Until then, he is happy to dispatch meatbearing motorbikes across Saigon, like a
carnivorous Santa Claus. I never wanted
to be a millionaire, the ribsmaster says. I
just like feeding people. Niko Savvas
For Sticky Fingers Grill delivery, order online
at stickyfingersgrill.com or call 0906 396461
and moules marinires, plus European fusion dishes, and competitively priced world
wines.
LE JARDIN
CLASSIC FRENCH
31 Thai Van Lung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 8465
Unpretentious but tasty French fare in a
relaxed garden setting within the French
cultural centre. The robust, bistro-style cuisine is very well-priced, and excellent, cheap
house wine is served by the carafe.
LUCCA
TRATTORIA-STYLE ITALIAN
88 Ho Tung Mau, Ben Nghe, Q1, Tel: (08)
3915 3691
A contemporary trattoria in the heart of
Saigon, serving home-cooked Italian cuisine
with New York flair in a beautifully designed
space with high ceilings. The menu features
both traditional antipasti and substantial
main courses.
LUONG SON
PAN-VIETNAMESE
31 Ly Tu Trong, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 1330
jungle-like atmosphere and views over central Saigon.
OSAKA RAMEN
JAPANESE NOODLES
18 Thai Van Lung, Q1; SD04, Lo H29-2, KP My
Phat, Phu My Hung, Q7
OPERA
Ground Floor, Park Hyatt Hotel, 2 Lam Son
Square, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 1234
Unpretentious, casual but elegant restaurant
with a triedandtested Italian menu backed
up by a compact wine list from regions like
Umbria, Toscana and Veneto. Regular specials and impressive open kitchens.
PACHARAN
SPANISH / EUROPEAN
97 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 6924
Legs of Iberian ham hang in the downstairs
bar at this multi-story bodega serving Spanish-styled tapas. Attractively decorated in
warm reds, yellows and oranges, Pacharans
food menu is traditionally Spanish.
PASHA
MAY RESTAURANT
19 21 Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 3686
may.restaurant19@gmail.com
7am to late
Casual yet stylish, May places internationalstyle wining and dining in the heart of historic
Saigon. Subtle lighting, comfortable seating,
an extensive wine and cocktail list, and beautifully crafted comfort food from Europe, the
Antipodes and Asia all make up the mix at this
multi-floored restaurant and bar. Check out
their set lunches and happy hour.
MARKET 39
INTERNATIONAL BUFFET
Ground Floor, InterContinental Asiana Saigon, Crn. of Hai Ba Trung & Le Duan, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3520 9999
MOGAMBO
PAN-AMERICAN / TEX-MEX
50 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825 1311
mogambo@saigonnet.vn
NAM GIAO
HUE CUISINE
136/15 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 38
250261; 116 Suong Nguyet Anh, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3925 9996
namgiao.com
NHA HANG NGON
VILLA DINING / STREETFOOD

160 Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 7131
NINETEEN
Ground floor, Caravelle Hotel, 19 Lam Son
Square, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 4999
caravellehotel.com
OMG!
FUSION CUISINE / LOUNGE BAR

Top Floor, 15-17-19 Nguyen An Ninh, Q1
A contemporary and attractive rooftop restaurant with a lounge bar just 50m from
Ben Thanh Market. Features a glass shell
modeled in the image of the Eiffel Tower, a
TURKISH / INTERNATIONAL
25 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291 3677
pasha.com.vn
Sumptuous, Turkish-themed restaurant
close to the mosque with Islamic-style white
dome dcor and comfortable, cushioned
seating.Authentically Turkish cuisine with a
sprinkling of western fare thrown in.
PENDOLASCO
PAN-ITALIAN
36 Tong Huu Dinh, Q2, Tel: (08) 6253 2828
pendolasco.vn
Opening out into a large, leafy terracottatiled garden area, this trattoria-style Italian
restaurant serves up quality homemade
pasta, risotto, gnocchi, excellent pizza and
grilled dishes. Another branch downtoan at
87 Nguyen Hue, Q1.
PIZZA 4PS
EUROPEAN/ASIAN FUSION
8/15 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 9838
pizza4ps.com
This quirky but highly rated Italian / Japanese fusion pizza parlour serves wacky yet
delicious pies such as tuna curry pizza and
calamari seaweed pizza, as well as more
traditional varieties.
PROPAGANDA
CLASSIC VIETNAMESE / BISTRO

21 Han Thuyen, Q1
Part of the group that includes Au Parc
and Refinery, Propaganda serves up classic Vietnamese cuisine in an atmosphere of
barebrick walls interposed with Propaganda
Art murals and prints.
QUAN BUI 2
TRADITIONAL VIETNAMESE
17A Ngo Van Nam, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 1515
With its leafy roof garden and chic interior,
Quan Bui offers a wide selection of Vietnamese cuisine which is cooked in their open
kitchen.
REFINERY
FRENCH BISTRO / INTERNATIONAL

The Square, 74 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08)
3823 0509
therefinerysaigon.com
A slightly retro feel pervades this popular

French-style bistro and wine bar which once
housed the citys opium refinery. The cuisine
runs from creative salads through to Mediterranean influenced mains.
REFLECTIONS
INTERNATIONAL / FINE DINING

3rd floor, Caravelle Hotel, 19 Lam Son
Square, Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 4999
RIVERSIDE CAF
Renaissance Riverside, 815 Ton Duc Thang,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 0033
Offers versatile allday dining of international quality, with the bonus of being able to
watch the action on the river sidewalk. Features western, Asian and Vietnamese buffets.
SAIGON CAF
INTERNATIONAL / BUFFET
Level 1, Sheraton Saigon Hotel and Towers,
88 Dong Khoi, Q1 Tel: (08) 3827 2828
sheratonsaigon.com
SEOUL HOUSE
KOREAN
33 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 4297
seoul.house@yahoo.com.kr
SHANG PALACE RESTAURANT
PAN-CHINESE / CANTONESE
Norfolk Mansion, 17-19-21 Ly Tu Trong, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3823 2221
shangpalace.com.vn
Featuring over 200 dishes and 50 kinds of
dim sum prepared by chefs from Hong Kong,
Shang Palace has nine private dining rooms
and a main dining area seating over 300.
Good for events.
SKEWERS
INTERNATIONAL / MEDITERRANEAN
9A Thai Van Lung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 4798
skewers-restaurant.com
Simple, unpretentious Greek-influenced, international cuisine ranging from the zucchini
carpaccio through to the saganiki, a range
of dips, mousaka, osso buco and lamb chop
skewers. Also has an excellent upstairs cigar room.
TANDOOR

74/6 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel: (08) 3930 4839
Tandoorvietnam.com
TEMPLE CLUB
PAN-VIETNAMESE
29-31 Ton That Thiep, Q1, Tel: (08) 3829 9244
Templeclub.com.vn
Once a hotel for Indian dignitaries visiting old
Saigon, the elegant and atmospheric Temple
Club is one of the citys best-preserved buildings. Serving quality Vietnamese and Indochine cuisine at reasonable prices.
THE BURGER CORNER
INTERNATIONAL
43 Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 0094
THE SWISS HOUSE SAIGON

54 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824 2079
swisshousesaigon.com
Serving up authentic cuisine spanning the
three linguistic regions of Switzerland, as
well as dishes from Bavaria and Austria, this
attractive, two-floor Swiss-styled restaurant
also boasts a beer cellar in the basement.
HCMC
THE EMPTY WOK

TANDOORI CHICKEN
A food blogger and self-styled

chef, in this new column,
Riccha Arora shows us how to
make one the tastiest Indian
dishes around at home. Who
needs a specially built clay
oven, anyway?
f youre in the mood for something

spicy and grilled, this dish will fit
the bill. You dont need to go to an
Indian restaurant to make your own
version of tandoori chicken.
One of the best known dishes
emerging from North India, theres
something about the marinating process,
the intoxicating spices and yoghurt base
that makes this kebab-style fare play
mouthwatering havoc with your taste
buds.
The meat is nice and juicy, and served
up with chutney or a spicy onion salad,
you can give the dish an extra kick.
Ingredients
5 chicken drumsticks
Marinade
1 cup hung curd curd with water
drained
3-4 teaspoons ginger garlic paste
1 tablespoon lime or lemon juice
1/2 teaspoon of black pepper
1/2 teaspoon of coriander powder
1/2 teaspoon of red chilli powder
1/4 teaspoon cumin powder
1/4 teaspoon of clove powder
1-2 drops of red food colour
2-3 teaspoons of mustard oil or any
other vegetable oil
2 egg whites
1 tablespoon of dry fenugreek leaves
Salt to taste
Preparation
Wash the chicken and pat it with a cloth
to dry. Cut two slits on each side of the
leg, making sure the knife cuts all the
way in to the bone.
For the first marinade, take the lemon
juice, salt, red chilli powder and ginger
garlic paste and massage it over the
drumstick and inside the slits. Then
refrigerate for 15 to 20 minutes.
Onto the second marinade. Take
the hung curd, remaining ginger garlic
paste, pepper, coriander, clove, cumin

and dry fenugreek leaves and again rub it
all over chicken and inside the slits. Add
salt to taste. Add the oil as the top coating
followed by egg whites they will hold
the marinade while baking. Refrigerate it
for 30 minutes.
Now preheat your oven for about 15
minutes on 250 degrees Celsius. Place
the chicken on the grilling tray, and keep
the aluminum foil on the surface of the

oven as the juices will drip. Bake it for 15
minutes on each side.
Check the meat before you remove.
Serve hot and sizzling with spicy onion
salad or the chutney.
Riccha Arora runs the Facebook page Sassy
Kitchen. To buy many of the ingredients above
go to Phuong Ha, 58 Ham Nghi, Q1 or the
spice shops in Ben Thanh Market
HCMC
TOKYO BBQ
JAPANESE BARBECUE
15A6 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3822 2527
VESPER BAR
INTERNATIONAL / TAPAS-STYLE
Landmark Building, 5B Ton
Duc Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822
9698
Headed up by well-known
chef Andy Ertle, Vesper Bar
is a sophisticated yet downto-earth wine and cocktail
bar. Serving creative, Japanese-influenced tapas to
supplement the drinks, the
subtle lighting and loungestyle atmosphere makes this
a great drinking and dining
venue
WARDA
MIDDLE-EASTERN
71/7 Mac Thi Buoi, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3823 3822
info@wardavn.com
The deep colours, Arabic dcor and cushioned outdoor
terrace area give this popular venue its unique touch.
The food is good, too, taking
in tabouleh, houmous, falafel
and mutabbal, shwarmas
and more. Sells authentic
shisha.
WRAP & ROLL

3822 2166; 111 Nguyen Hue,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3821 8971
wrap-roll.com
of all types, and healthy, Hueinfluenced cuisine.
YAMANEKO
JAPANESE / OKINAWA
13/1 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3823 8433
yamanekovn.com
Funky Yamaneko down an
alley off Le Thanh Ton offers delicious, unpretentious
Okinawan fare alongside
mainland staples. Does a
great set lunch deal.
YU CHU
TOP-END PAN-CHINESE
1st Floor, InterContinental
Asiana Saigon, crn.of Hai Ba
Trung & Le Duan, Q1
Tel: (08) 3520 9999
Skillful chefs prepare authentic hand-pulled noodles,
fresh dim sum and hot wok
dishes within an impeccably
designed open kitchen, as
diners look on. Stylish and
spectacular.
FITNESS, DANCE & YOGA

ANUPA YOGA
9 Dong Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822
2394
anupa.net/yoga-anupa
CALIFORNIA FITNESS CENTRE
FITNESS CENTRE
Queen Ann Building, 2830
32 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 6291
5999
Cfyc.com.vn
NUTRIFORT
GENERAL FITNESS
2B1 Chu Manh Trinh, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3825 8560
nutrifort.com
Offers fitness classes and
personal training with excellent facilities. Group classes
include power yoga, pilates,
circuit training, martial arts
and spinning. There is also a
spa and a restaurant serving
caloriecalibrated meals.
RENAISSANCE HOTEL HEALTH

CLUB
HEALTH CLUB & GYM

815 Ton Duc Thang, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3822 0033
SAIGON FITNESS CO.
HEALTH CLUB & GYM

Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8888
SHERATON FITNESS
HEALTH CLUB & GYM

Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 2828
sheratonsaigon.com
SOFITEL PLAZA FITNESS CENTRE
HEALTH CLUB & GYM

3824 1555
THE LANDMARK CLUB
GYM, POOL, SQUASH

The Landmark, 5B Ton Duc
Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822
2098 ext. 176
In addition to the squash
court, facilities include a
fullyequipped gym room, a
rooftop swimming pool and
separate male and female
saunas.
GALLERIES
BLUE SPACE & PARTICULAR ART
GALLERY
97A Pho Duc Chinh, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3821 3695
bluespacearts.com
DOGMA
8A/9C1 Thai Van Lung, Q1
dogmacollection.com
The home of Vietnamese
propaganda art and a collection put together over the
last two decades by art collector Dominic Scriven, the
majority of the work comes
from the war period when
provocative poster art was
used to inspire and motivate.
Sells prints of the originals
and related products.
HO CHI MINH CITY FINE ARTS

MUSEUM
(08) 3829 4441

baotangmythuattphcm.vn
PHUONG MAI ART GALLERY

129B Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3823 3181
07 Phan Chu Trinh, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3822 3166
phuongmaigallery.com
GROCERIES, LIQUOR & WINE

ANNAM GOURMET MARKET
GROCERY & DELI

(08) 3822 9332
Annam-gourmet.com
Attractive and spacious
Frenchowned grocery
shop stocking a large range
of foods, organic fruit and
vegetables, imported beers
and wines. Also sells luxury
branded products from
the likes of Fauchon. The
deli upstairs in the Hai Ba
Trung branch serves tasty
baguette rolls in a comfortable lounge area with free
WiFi, and offers probably
the best selection of cheese
and cured meats in town.
Free delivery for Districts 1,
2 and 3.
BACCHUS CORNER
WINE SHOP
158D Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08)
3829 3306
bacchuscorner.com
A range of spirits, whiskies
and wines at affordable prices. Wines come from all over
the world with an especially
good selection from France,
Chile and South Africa. Also
has an excellent range of
single malts, top shelf tequilas and has an onsite
wine tasting machine, the
Enomatic, the first of its kind
in Vietnam.
DALOC
WINE SHOP
74E Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel:
(08) 5404 3575
daloc.vn
KIM HAI BUTCHERS
BUTCHERS
73 Le Thi Hong Gam, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3914 4376
kimhai.vn
PHUONG HA
GROCERS
58 Ham Nghi, Q1, Tel: (08)
3914 1318
RED APRON
WINE SHOP
22 Chu Manh Trinh, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3823 0021
THE WAREHOUSE
WINE SHOP
15/5 Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3825 8826
One of the busiest wine retailers in town. In addition
to their excellent range of
wines, they also stock imported beers, bottled mineral water and spirits.
97A Pho Duc Chinh, Q1, Tel:
HCMC
A WORLD
OF
CSR OR SOCIAL ENTERPRISE?
GOOD
BY DANA MCNAIRN
hilanthropy has become an

umbrella term for just about
any type of benevolent activity.
But what about corporate
social responsibility (CSR) and social
enterprise? Is there a difference? Welfare
capitalism, corporate philanthropy,
ethical investing, charity and yes, CSR,
are all terms used to signify doing well
financially with doing good socially. If
the primary purpose is to bring about
social, political or economic change,
then some would date social enterprise
(under different names) as early as 1780
in the United States.
But Google searches on social
enterprise still returns social media or
social relations. I attended a fundraiser
where the host told us they had
started as a social enterprise, but now
theyre a nonprofit because its just
better that way. While there are legal
issues in Vietnam, social enterprise
shouldnt be equated with bad and
nonprofit as good. (You can be a
nonprofit social enterprise, by the way.)
Manichean thinking is easy to slip into
businesses working towards a social
cause shouldnt be making money out of
disadvantaged communities.
Exclusion, Equilibrium and

Funding
So then isnt social enterprise just the
rich helping the poor? No. Many NGOs
and nonprofits here are scrambling
to adjust to the downturn in donor
funding. Government (and donor)
funding is slow and comes with an
agenda. Creating your own revenue
stream is one more step towards
sustainability. Even CSR funding must
adjust in oscillating economic times. But
team days, doing work in a community
or supporting a charity with an annual
check are examples of CSR activities.
These activities are important for staff
morale, but CSR still tends to be a
side project, rather than having social
objectives as the raison dtre of the
entity. If you hire disadvantaged people,
run a foundation on the side or open a
business in the developing world you
are not running a social enterprise.
Why? Lets take Stanford
Universitys (yes, picky) definition.
Social entrepreneurship is: 1)
identifying a stable but inherently
unjust equilibrium that causes the
exclusion, marginalisation, or suffering

of a segment of humanity that lacks
the financial means or political clout to
achieve any transformative benefit on
its own; 2) identifying an opportunity...
developing a social value proposition,
and bringing to bear direct action
thereby challenging the hegemony; and
3) forging a new, stable equilibrium that
releases trapped potential or alleviates
the suffering of the targeted group, and
through imitation around the new
equilibrium ensuring a better future for
the targeted group and even society at
large.
Unjust equilibrium transformed into a
new ecosystem by either scale or outright
imitation. That makes microfinance
Grameen Bank a social enterprise.
Opening an orphanage or free clinic is
not because theres no new equilibrium

or scale created. It might be social work,
social activism or even altruism (ack!),
but its not game changing. But I prefer
middle ground. Why not hybrids that
merge small businesses and social
purpose enterprises?
Perhaps the difference between the
two is the social impact they deliver.
Let that be our yardstick. Many believe
the worlds intractable problems will
be solved through market rather than
political solutions. I am one of them.
Social enterprises dont want to be big
businesses they want to be small
giants.
Dana McNairn works at KOTO, a nonprofit
social enterprise and vocational training
programme for at-risk youth. She can be
contacted at dana.mcnairn@koto.com.au
HCMC
VEGGYS
a clean and pleasant environment.
GROCERS & DELI

29A Le Thanh Ton, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3823 8526
VINIFERA
WINE SHOP
7 Thai Van Lung, Q1, Tel: (08)
3521 0860
viniferavn.com
VINO WINE SHOP
WINE SHOP
74/17 Hai Ba Trung, Q1, Tel:
(08) 6299 1315
Professional advice on selecting and tasting wines.
Also offers regular popular
wine courses. The outdoor
terrace area is the perfect
spot to sample a new vintage.
SIAN SKINCARE CLINIC
SKIN CARE / COSMETICS

Level 2, 71-79 Dong Khoi, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3827 6999
sianclinic.com
The Australian and Canadian managed SIAN Clinic
offers a wide range of skincare medical therapies to
treat problems by an experienced dermatologist and
facial care team. The clinic
utilises the latest therapies.
HAIRDRESSERS
MEDICAL & DENTAL

ACCADENT
INTERNATIONAL DENTAL CLINIC

Kumho Asiana Plaza, 39 Le
Duan, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8800
accadent.com
CENTRE MEDICAL INTERNATIONAL (CMI)
FRENCH MEDICAL CLINIC

1 Han Thuyen, Q1, Tel: (08)
3827 2366
cmi-vietnam.com
This French medical clinic
provides general practice
and a range of specialties
including cardiology, gynecology, psychotherapy and
traditional medicine.
FAMILY MEDICAL PRACTICE HCMC
INTERNATIONAL CLINIC
Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 7848
com
Fullservice 24hour
healthcare provider with
highlyqualified doctors
handling everything from
emergencies to tests and
Xrays, inpatient and out
patient care, checkups,
travel medicine and medical
evacuations.
FV SAIGON CLINIC
3rd Floor, Bitexco Financial
Tower, 2 Hai Trieu, Q1, Tel:
(08) 6290 6167
fvhospital.com
Stateoftheart medical
centre located in District
1. Experienced American,
French, and Vietnamese
doctors provide the full
spectrum health care. Plus
sports medicine, cosmetic
treatments, skin care and
surgical consultations.

(08) 3827 2737
Jasminespa.vn
Sparelated salon with a
good reputation for quality
and comfort offers washes
and leisurely haircuts from
VND330,000 plus a range of
related services including
massage and some excellent treatments.
MEKONG BLISS SPA

112, Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08)
6299 0563
10am to 10pm (last booking
9.30pm)
VENUS
41 Nguyen Trung Ngan, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3829 6298
JASMINE
WESTCOAST INTL DENTAL CLINIC

INTERNATIONAL DENTAL
CLINIC
Ben Thanh Clinic, 27 Nguyen Trung Truc, Q1, Tel: (08)
3825 6999
The Practice, Level 1, 71-79
Dong Khoi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3825
6777
westcoastinternational.com
An international dental clinic
equipped with the latest
technology, the comfortable
clinics offer cosmetic and
implant dentistry with a focus on making each patients
experience anxiety and pain
free.
SALONS & SPAS

AQUA DAY SPA
Khoi, Q1 Tel: (08) 3827 2828
aquadayspasaigon.com
FAME NAILS SALON

3 Truong Dinh, Q1, Tel: 0909
682 827
famenails.com
GLOW SPA
129A Nguyen Hue, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3823 8368
glowsaigon.com
Modern and bright downtown spa, offers massages
lasting from 30 minutes, to
two-hour hot stone therapy,
includes one suite with a
Jacuzzi bath; offers hand
and foot care and a hair
styling area.
INDOCHINE SPA
69 Thu Khoa Huan, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3827 7188
Indochine-spa.com.vn
Indochine Spa provides a
peaceful and serene atmosphere with aromatic
scents and lulling melodies.
Customers are pampered
by qualified therapists using
natural French products in
Q SPA & SALON

31Q LY TU TRONG, Q1, TEL: (08)
3905 4609
Qspaandsalon.com
An old world, Indochineesque interior complete with
wooden floors, flowers and
flowing drapes makes this
an excellent atmosphere in
which to enjoy a massage.
Also offers hair styling and
facials.
ROSA BLANCA BEAUTY

23C Ton Duc Thang, Q1
Specialising in all forms of
skincare, this is welldesigned, ambient and outfitted
day spa offers body treatments as well as facials and
foot treatments.
SPA INTERCONTINENTAL AND

HEALTH CLUB
3rd Floor, InterContinental
Asiana Saigon, crn.of Hai Ba
Trung & Le Duan, Q1, Tel: (08)
3520 9999
THANH SANCTUARY
Nguyen Du Villas, 111 Nguyen Du, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822
0885
THE SPA AT 1960 PRESIDENTIAL

CLUB
22nd floor, Sailing Tower,
111A Pasteur, Q1, Tel: (08)
2220 2600
spa1960.vn
THE SPA
Saigon Pearl, 92 Nguyen Huu
Canh, Binh Thanh, Tel: (08)
3514 9007
Saigon Centre, 3M Floor,
65 Le Loi, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821
1800
thespavietnam.com
THE SPA AT NEW WORLD HOTEL

76 Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822
8888
XUAN SPA
Park Hyatt, 2 Lam Son
Square, Q1, Tel: (08) 3824
1234
hyattpure.com
HCMC
KNOW YOUR BUSINESS

ATTRACTING TALENT IN VIETNAMS DIGITAL ARENA
e are now living in a digital

world, where job seekers
are engaging with potential
employers on social media sites
and other digital platforms LinkedIn,
Facebook and Twitter to name a few.
Social media could not be more
important. According to a survey
conducted by Belle Beth Cooper, content
crafter for Buffer and co-founder of Exist,
social media is the number one activity
on the internet. Clearly, social media
carries more weight than ever.
What to Expect
Thanks to the growth of social media,
we can expect a certain level of passivity
among job seekers. Job searchers
nowadays actively participate on
platforms such as YouTube, Facebook and
LinkedIn, thus making them increasingly
visible to recruiters. The candidates
no longer have to work so hard to
update their resumes or push their
skills to recruiters because the recruiters
themselves are out searching. All they
have to do is keep their profiles updated.
To attract potential candidates,
recruiters have had to evolve their
methods of seeking out talent. It is
through the collection of social data that
potential employers will be able to review
crucial information in particular,
behaviour regarding potential
candidates faster and more efficiently,
resulting in the inevitable social
consumption. Thanks to this, there is little
doubt that social recruitment will remain
on the rise for the foreseeable future.
Stepping into the Social World

Almost 90 percent of recruiters in Vietnam
say that they are currently using social
media as their preferred recruitment tool.
With 53.2 percent of Vietnams job seekers
looking for jobs online, the number of
recruiters checking online information
as well as using online social media is
growing. So what does a recruiter need to
do when theyre searching for staff?
candidates or check references to their

background or experience.
Company Website
Its necessary to build up your companys
website and invest in its renewal and
design. Create as strong a search engine
optimisation (SEO) as possible.
Twitter
Twitter isnt popular yet in Vietnam, but
its coming. With an upwards limit of 140
characters per statement, Twitter is great
for companies looking to promote specific
job opportunities or communicate with
potential candidates.
LinkedIn
Among the top social media channels,
LinkedIn leads the way in how recruiters
search for information about potential
Facebook
Facebook users have been growing
rapidly in Vietnam for years, so most
recruitment companies have already set
up Facebook pages. But the race is still on
to gain as many fans or likes as possible.
YouTube
Youtube can be a great tool to promote
company branding to a huge amount of

viewers in a short time. All you need is
to produce fun, creative and eye-catching
content, and youre away!
As has happened in many other
industries, social media has transformed
the recruiting industry. By investing in
a strong, coherent and relevant digital
presence, your company will become a
beacon for the kinds of candidates who
will be suited for both the role and the
organisation.
Ninh The Dung is Team Leader of
Permanent Staffing at Adecco Vietnam.
Adecco is a Fortune Global 500 company
and the global leader in Human Resources
services, check out adecco.com.vn for more
insight
HCMC
641826
Bamskateshop.com.vn
pham ngu lao
BLUE DRAGON
SOUVENIRS / CLOTHING
1B Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08)
2210 2084
8am to 10.30pm
BAKERIES / BARS & CLUBS / CAFES / CLOTHING

& ACCESSORIES / CRAFTS & FURNITURE / EAT /
GALLERIES
BAKERIES
CRUMBS
BAKERY
117 Cong Quynh, Q1, Tel: (08)
3836 1992
crumbs.com.vn
Dubbed the local bakery,
Crumbs serves up a variety
of baked goods including baguettes, muffins, cheese and
garlicbased buns and loafs,
meatfilled pastries, sweet
pastries, healthconscious
breads and more. There is
also a breakfast menu and
variety of sandwiches available.
TOUS LES JOURS
KOREAN BAKERY
(08) 3914 4350
BARS & CLUBS

BIA TUOI 33
BIA HOI
33 Bui Vien, Q1
BREAD & BUTTER
INTERNATIONAL / COMFORT
FOOD
40/24 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08)
3836 8452
With a free book exchange,
and tasty Sunday night
roasts, the tiny Bread &
Butter is a perfect place for
homesick expats and beer
enthusiasts (excellent HueBrewed Huda beer served
here exclusively in Ho Chi
Minh City).
GO2
INTERNATIONAL / RESTOBAR
187 De Tham, Q1, Tel: (08)
3836 9575
GODMOTHER BAR
RESTOBAR / VIETNAMESE /
WESTERN
3832 4589
godmothersaigon.com
Only a couple blocks from
the bru-haha of Bui Vien,
Godmothers is a small watering hole with big attractions including excellent
mojitos, good food, and the
weekly Optimus Club featuring international DJs.
setting for enjoying tasty international and Vietnamese

cuisine. Check out their daily
drink specials and Tuesday
night pub quizzes.
LONG PHI
FRENCH / RESTOBAR
3837 2704
French-run but universally
appealing, Long Phi has been
serving the backpacker area
with excellent cuisine and
occasional live music since
1990. Excellent late-night
bistro cuisine.
INTERNATIONAL / RESTOBAR
Tel: (08) 3837 7679
Warm colors, artsy dcor
and a friendly ambiance
combine to create a perfect
With its two-floor, nook-andcranny setup, it combines

caf culture, cocktails, art,
DJ nights now the home
base for the Optimist Club
live music and various "happenings", sprinkling them
throughout its cozy corners.
THI CAF
LIVE MUSIC / LOUNGE

224 De Tham, Q1, Tel: (08)
2210 2929
T&R TAVERN
DIVE BAR
57 Do Quang Dau, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3838 9839
UNIVERSAL BAR
SAIGON VIBRATIONS
REGGAE BAR
143 Nguyen Trai, Q1
facebook.com/saigon.vibrations
Just off The Pham, this intothe-early-hours reggae
inspired joint holds regular themed nights all in the
name of that most special
of sounds the one from
Jamaica.
SEVENTEEN SALOON
THEMED MUSIC BAR

103A Pham Ngu Lao, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3914 0007
seventeensaloon.com.vn
Wild West-themed bar
doubles as a music venue,
where three talented Filipino
bands (B&U, Wild West and
Most Wanted) play covers of
rock icons like Bon Jovi, U2
and Guns n Roses. Top shelf
spirits and friendly, hostess
style table service are the
name game here.
SPOTTED COW
INTERNATIONAL / SPORT
3920 7670
Alfrescosgroup.com
Spotted Cow delivers the
fun-loving atmosphere that
its playfully decorated black
and white spotted interior
promises, as well as decent
international comfort food,
a range of happy hours, live
sports, and darts.
THE OBSERVATORY
LE PUB
GINKGO
BAR, ART & MUSIC SPACE

Cnr. Le Lai and Ton That
Tung, Q1, Tel: 0906 359440
theobservatory-hcmc.com
The Observatory is DJ Hibiya Line's new youth culture
hub, just off Pham Ngo Lao.
LIVE MUSIC / RESTOBAR

90 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: 01633
343933
universalbarsaigon.com
CAFES
BOBBY BREWERS
INTERNATIONAL
3920 4090
bobbybrewers.com
Choose from a full range
of caf beverages and a
fast-food style menu as you
watch the latest Hollywood
hits in their upstairs lounge.
Check website for movie locations and schedule.
CHICCO DICAFF CAF
ITALIAN & VIETNAMESE

213 Bui Vien, Q1
facebook.com/ChiccoDicaffCoffee
Set just off the street on the
quiet end of Bui Vien, Chicco
Dicaff serves an expat and
local-heavy clientele takeaway coffees and flavoured
concoctions, from a five-seat
coffee bar.
INTERNATIONAL
157-159 Nguyen Thai Hoc,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3837 9347
coffeebean.com.vn
Large portioned coffee lures
customers into the flagship
store of this international
caf chain. The contemporary, yet generic atmosphere is bolstered by comfortable seating and a menu
to satisfy any sweet tooth.

BAM SKATE SHOP
SKATEWEAR / STREET
VIETNAM-THEMED CLOTHING
54-56 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08)
6270 5928
ginkgo-vietnam.com
Quality, original, Vietnamthemed tees are the showpiece at this airy French-run
store. Designs are inspired
by anything from the Vietnamese flag, local telecom
wires and motorbikes to
creative, Siddharta-style
imagery.
MARATHON
BUDGET CLOTHING
3920 7442; 123A Bui Vien,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3838 0019
PAPAYA
BUDGET CLOTHING
232 Bui Vien, Q1
papaya-tshirt.com
ORANGE
BUDGET CLOTHING
3820 2620
9am to 10pm
U.BEST HOUSE
TRAVEL GEAR
163 Nguyen Thai Hoc, Q1, Tel:
0978 967588
Ubesthouse.com
CRAFTS & FURNITURE

SAPA
ETHNIC ACCESSORIES / SOUVENIRS

209 De Tham, Q1, Tel: (08)
3838 9780
your-own breakfasts, baked

potatoes, toasties, Vietnamese fare and more. Has a
popular motorbike rental
service.
CORIANDER
THAI / VIETNAMESE
16 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08) 3837
1311
JJS FISH N CHIPS
FISH & CHIPS / STREET STALL

Cnr. 38B Tran Hung Dao & De
Tham, Q1
thing from the bacon butty

through to the bacon Caesar.
A popular hangout.
TIN NGHIA
VEGAN
(08) 3821 2538
One of the citys oldest eateries (established in 1925)
does some of the cheapest
and tastiest vegan cuisine in
town, all cooked up without
onions, garlic or MSG.
LA CANTINA
TEX-MEX / VIETNAMESE
Tel: (08) 3837 0760
MARGHERITA
ITALIAN / TEX-MEX
Tel: (08) 3837 0760
PUNJABI INDIAN RESTAURANT
NORTH INDIAN / PUNJAB

40/23 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08)
3508 3777
monuvn@gmail.com
Ignore the non-trendy, holein-the-wall appearance. This
side-street Indian serves
up some excellent fare at
reasonable prices, with a
number of Punjabi specialities to boot.
SISTERS CAFE
VIETNAMESE/WESTERN
Tel: 0903 643446
Light wood paneling, beige
walls and locally themed
artwork help to create a
fresh and airy ambience in
this caf-cum-restaurant
that is owned by the woman
behind Chis Caf. Also does
visa extensions and motorbike rental.
WRAP & ROLL

226 De Tham, Q1, Tel: (08)
3837 5097
wrap-roll.com
of all types, and healthy, Hueinfluenced cuisine. Check
out the second floor, junglein-the-wall dcor at this
particular branch. Unique
and refreshing.
ZEUS
GREEK / KEBAB
3837 3248
ZOOM CAF
AMERICAN / TEX-MEX
169A Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08)
3920 3897
vietnamvespaadventures.
com/cafe_zoom
This corner-located Vespainfatuated venue is a caf
and restaurant by day and
a sidewalk drinking joint
by night. Friendly staff and
American deli-style and Cajun fare makes it a regular
expat haunt.
EAT
BABAS KITCHEN

3838 6661
babaskitchen.in
This pleasant, airy Indian
does the full range of fare
from all ends of the subcontinent, from dosas and vadas through to chicken tikka
masala, kormas, kebabs and
fiery vindaloos.
BURRITO REVOLUTION
TEX-MEX / STREET STALL

714882
CHIS CAF
40/31 Bui Vien, Q1, Tel: (08)
3837 2502
Chiscafe.com
This affable caf is a rarity
in the backpacker area for
its genuinely good musical
playlist. Excellent, build-
TAM HAO HANDPULLED NOODLES

CHINESE NOODLES
195A De Tham, Q1
tamhao.com
Nothing gets better than a
bowl of tasteful broth and
hand-pulled Chinese noodles, especially when its
from Tam Hao. Hip interior
design draws many a traveller into this tasteful but
non-fancy hotel noodle restaurant, leaving them craving for more.
GALLERIES
GALERIE QUYNH
65 De Tham, Q1, Tel: (08)
3836 8019
galeriequynh.com
In addition to working with
artists based in Vietnam,
Galerie Quynh also exhibits the work of artists from
around the world. This wellestablished gallery supports
education through talks, lectures and publications.
THE HUNGRY PIG
BACON BAR / CAFE

3836 4533
facebook.com/thehungrypigcafe
Think bacon, bacon and
more bacon, all set in airy,
spacious atmosphere, and
you get The Hungry Pig, an
eatery specialising in any-

simply email us on
well try our best
HCMC
district 1
DISTRICT 1
Downtown
Pham Ngu Lao
BARS & CLUBS / BOOKS / CAFES / CLOTHING & ACCESSORIES

/ COOKING CLASSES / CRAFTS & FURNITURE / EAT /
FITNESS, DANCE & YOGA / GALLERIES / INTERNATIONAL
SCHOOLS / MEDICAL & DENTAL / SALONS & SPAS
CAFE THOAI VIEN
HOA VIEN
CZECH BREWHOUSE
3825 8605
hoavien.vn
MZ CLUB
LIVE MUSIC / NIGHTCLUB

56A Bui Thi Xuan, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3925 5258
m-zing.com
SAIGON VIBRATIONS
REGGAE BAR
143 Nguyen Trai, Q1
facebook.com/saigon.vibrations
Saigons first reggae bar
located close to The Observatory on the other side of
Pham Ngu Lao. Open late,
holds a number of nights
like Tropical Wednesday,
Thursday-before-midnightshots-only ladies night and
Underground Saturdays, all
in an attempt to pump things
up for the party seekers in
town.
BOOKS
LIBRAIRIE FRANCAISE NAM
PHONG
82 Truong Dinh, Q1, Tel: (08)
3914 7858
Nam Phong Bookstore was
founded at the of end 2002 in
Ho Chi Minh City as the first
and only francophone bookshop in the whole of Vietnam.
Only books written in French
are for sale, covering for all
ages and tastes. A catalogue
is available at namphongsaigon.com
CAFES
(A) CAFE
15 Huynh Khuong Ninh, Da
Kao, Q1, Tel: 0903 199701
Settle into the Javanesestyle interior and enjoy possibly one of the best brews
159A Nguyen Van Thu, Q1,

Tel: 0918 115657
cafethoaivien.com
Veer off the street and find
yourself plunging straight
into lush greenery. Cafe
Thoai Vien serves up a
spacious and airy setting
to enjoy a quiet sip. From
small eats to big bites and
everything to drink, its a
great place to unwind from
all that buzz.
INTERNATIONAL
235 Nguyen Van Cu, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3833 3648
coffeebean.com.vn
Large portioned coffee lures
customers into the flagship
store of this international
caf chain. The contemporary, yet generic atmosphere is bolstered by comfortable seating and a menu
to satisfy any sweet tooth.
DECIBEL
INTERNATIONAL
79/2/5 Phan Ke Binh, Q1,
Tel: (08) 6271 0115
Decibel.vn
Trendy without pretense,
this two-floor, relaxed caf
offers beautiful decor and
unique original events like
live music, film screenings,
and art exhibits. Great prices
and food with daily specials.
GIVRAL CAF
INTERNATIONAL / FRENCH
97 Nguyan Huu Cau, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3844 3295
saigongivral.com
I.D. CAF
CONTEMPORARY CAFE
34D Thu Khoa Huan, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3822 2910
Idcafe.net
Centrally located near Ben
District
10
Le
Huu
C
Ng
uy
en
M
Du
Th
i
Ng
uy
en
Ma
cT
ha
n
ng
ng
Th
an
g8
Le
Lo
i
76A Le Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3821
2718
The outdoor, well-aired terrace is the centrepiece of
this popular, contemporary
caf. Enjoy live music on
weekends as you sip on reasonably priced Vietnamese
or espresso-based coffee.
an
n
Bi
e
Ca
ch
Kh
ai
Ph
1st Floor, 14 Ton That Dam,

Q1, Tel: 01699 990003
sam.nguyen197@gmail.com
A small but swanky cafe,
Banksy promises a young
and vibrant hideout in an
old 1960s-era apartment
building. Remember to head
up the steep stairs within to
dig into their secret stash of
clothes and accessories.
ie
n
LAN MIEN DINING CAFE
Tr
u
Du
h
an
Ng
.H
ue
Ham Nghi
District 2
Da
o
TOP-END BAR & TERRACE

Rooftop, AB Tower, 76A Le
Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 2372
chillsaigon.com
For the spectacular views
alone, Chill Skybar remains
the place to go to mix topend, outdoor terrace drinking around an oval-shaped
bar with cityscapes of Saigon. One of the top watering
holes in the city.
BANKSY CAFE
District 3
Hu
ng
CHILL SKYBAR
Ha
i
Ba
t
Kie
n
Va
Tr
an
CONTEMPORARY BEER HALL

37 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q1,
Tel: 0906 780081
Thanh Market, i.d offers

casual caf dining with a
wide variety of food and
beverages. Where modern
design and a warm ambience meet for coffee.
To
n
Ho
BEER AND GRILL (BG SAIGON)
in Saigon. Using own grown

and specially sourced Dalat
beans, speciality coffee such
as cold drip, siphon, and
Chemex are must haves for
the avid coffee drinker.
an
g
in
h
en
Ti
BARS & CLUBS
Binh Thanh
in
h
District 4
Vo
LE PETIT CAF
FRENCH
112 Pham Viet Chanh, Q1,
Tel: (08) 6291 2067
MOCKINGBIRD CAFE
4th Floor, 14 Ton That Dam,
Q1, Tel: 0935 293400
facebook.com/mockingbirdcoffee
Sitting atop of a number of
cafe establishments in an old
apartment complex, Mockingbird is just the place for a
romantic time over mojitos,
or good ol caffeine-infused
relaxation.
THE OTHER PERSON CAFE

2nd Floor, 14 Ton That Dam,
Q1, Tel: 0909 670272
facebook.com/TheOtherPersonCafe
Fancy being served up by
maids in costume? Call for
a booking and enjoyed customized service to your liking
while spending an afternoon
in this candy-land inspired
cafe.
THINGS CAFE
1st Floor, 14 Ton That Dam,
Q1, Tel: (08) 6678 6205
facebook.com/thingscafe
Feel the calm and serenity
of this rustic little quiet corner tucked away in an Old
Apartment. The quaint and
relaxing atmosphere sets for
some alone time, or quality
conversations held over a
drink or two.

BOSSINI
UNISEX CASUAL WEAR

22 Nguyen Trai, Q1, Tel: (08)
3839 2292
Bossini.com
GAYA CLOTHING
HAND-MADE / DESIGNER
Le Lai Corner, 1 Nguyen Van
Trang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3925
1495
Gayavietnam.com
Clothing is designed and
tailor-made by renowned
designer Romyda Keth, and
concentrates mainly on
womens wear. Gaya sells
colourful, sexy evening
dresses, embroidered floral
skirts and cute chiffon tops.
COOKING CLASSES
OVERLAND CLUB
35Bis Huynh Khuong Ninh,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3820 9734
overlandclub.jp
Sunday 1.30pm to 5pm
The Overland Club organises
pottery classes, VietnameseJapanese cooking classes,
cultural art events and
monthly special activities,
such as the Soba Festival,
pottery painting classes, the
art of decorating paper and
multinational cuisine days.
CRAFTS & FURNITURE

GAYA
CONTEMPORARY FURNISHINGS
1 Nguyen Van Trang, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3925 1495
gayavietnam.com
Set in one of the most attractive post-World War II
buildings in the city, Gaya has
a reputation for chic and sophisticated indoor and outdoor sofas, pod seats, lamps
and tableware, with all products both constructed and
designed locally. You can
find a wide range of mirrors
and lacquerware with bowls,
vases and contemporary
Asian-style boxes as well as
a fantastic selection of linenembroidered bedding in all
colours and designs. Prices
here match the quality of the
products.
EAT
27 GRILL
GRILL-STYLE RESTAURANT
Rooftop, AB Tower, 76A Le
Lai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827 2372
chillsaigon.com
Besides the spectacular
views, the cuisine at 27 Grill
is a real draw, with steaks
and other international
grill-style fare in a refined
yet contemporary atmosphere. Subtle lighting and
an extensive wine list make
up the mix.
CAF IF
VIETNAMESE FRENCH
38 Dang Dung, Q1, Tel: (08)
3846 9853
MSG-free traditional Vietnamese cuisine with a
French twist, cooked fresh
to order. Dishes include noodle soup, steamed ravioli and
beef stew, stir fries, hot pots
and curries.
COBALT
ROOFTOP RESTOBAR
Floor 30-31, Pullman Saigon
Centre, 148 Tran Hung Dao,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3838 8686
pullman-saigon-centre.com
A tapas-style contemporary
international menu in an
equally modern chic space,
Cobalt also has panoramic
views over the city thanks to
its 30th-floor location. Has a
focus on wine matching and
tasting. A hotel restaurant
with a difference.
DYNASTY
CANTONESE / PAN-CHINESE
Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8888

Elegant surroundings, top
quality ingredients, attentive service and comfortable,
roundtable dining makes Dynasty one of the top Chinese
restaurants in town, with a
classic dim sum menu.
LION CITY
SINGAPOREAN
45 Le Anh Xuan, Q1, Tel: (08)
3823 8371
lioncityrestaurant.com
Friendly, authentic fivestorey Singaporean eatery,
plating up the likes of nasi
lemak, mee rebus, and awesome chicken curry, as well
as specialities like frog porridge, chilli crab and fish
head curry.
MAY RESTAURANT
INDOCHINE VIETNAMESE
3/5 Hoang Sa, Q1, Tel: (08)
3910 1277
May-cloud.com
Meaning Cloud, May utilises homemade recipes
and broths developed by the
restaurateurs father, such
as pan-fried duck breast
served with nuoc mam and
ginger, and 1940s style
spring rolls. This is the Saigonese cooking of old set in
an Indochine atmosphere.
MONSOON
PAN-SOUTHEAST ASIAN
1 Cao Ba Nha, Q1, Tel: (08)
6290 8899
Traditional pan-Southeast
Asian favourites served in
a visually arresting setting
within a French colonial-era
villa, just minutes from the
backpacker area. Reasonably priced, with healthy
HCMC
juices and smoothies.
NEW YORK STEAKHOUSE
AMERICAN / FRENCH
2527 Nguyen Dinh Chieu,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3823 7373
steakhouse.com.vn
NYSW is well known for
serving up formidable prime
signature cuts of New York
strip steak, rib eye, double
strip loins and chateaubriands along with sophisticated sides, in a glitzy, Hollywood-esque atmosphere.
QUAN UT UT
AMERICAN VIETNAMESE GRILL

168 Vo Van Kiet, Q1, Tel: (08)
3914 4500
quanutut.com
On-site American grilltype fare in a Vietnamese,
wooden table setting. Think
ribs, burgers and all things
hearty at this immensely
popular eatery.
PARKVIEW
Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 8888
Flagship restaurant of The
New World Hotel, serving
lavish buffets all day. Many
cooking stations ranging
from Chinese to Italian, sushi and seafood, to salads,
cold cuts, cheese plates and
desserts.
QUAN BUI
TRADITIONAL VIETNAMESE
8 Nguyen Van Nguyen, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3602 2241
Make sure to try the sauted
shrimps with cashew nuts
and crispy fried tofu with
lime wedge, at this popular,
high-quality eatery where all
food is served in traditional
crockery.
QUAN UT UT
US-STYLE BARBECUE
168 Vo Van Kiet, Q1, Tel: (08)
3914 4500
facebook.com/quanutut
Its a no-brainer, right?
American-style barbecue in
a contemporary Vietnamese,
quan nhau-style setting. Of
course it is, which is why
Quan Ut Ut is constantly
packed with grill-obsessed
diners going for the burgers, meats off the barbecue
and Platinum pale ale served
on tap.
TIEM COM GA HAI NAM
CHINESE / VIETNAMESE BINH

DAN
67 Le Thi Hong Gam, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3821 7751

STAR FITNESS GYM
HEALTH CLUB & GYM

Manor Apartments, 91
Nguyen Huu Canh, Binh
Thanh, Tel: (08) 3514 0253

Steve Chipman, who had a
hand in establishing gyms
at the Sofitel hotels in Hanoi
and Ho Chi Minh City, is behind Star Fitness one of
Vietnams largest and bestequipped gyms.
a broad range of medical and

aesthetic skin treatments.
Their international dermatologists and doctors ensure
accurate diagnosis and safe
treatment procedures. It
houses excellent equipment
for a variety of procedures.
GALLERIES
VICTORIA HEALTHCARE INTERNATIONAL CLINIC
CRAIG THOMAS GALLERY

27i Tran Nhat Duat, Q1, Tel:
0903 888431
cthomasgallery.com
Located in a quiet corner
of District 1, Craig Thomas
Gallery offers a compelling
mix of up-and-coming and
established local artists. In
operation since 2009, its
founder has been promoting
Vietnamese art for a decade.
SAN ART
3 Me Linh, Binh Thanh, Tel:
(08) 3840 0183
San-art.org
San Art is an independent,
artist-run exhibition space
that offers residency programmes for young artists, lecture series and an
exchange programme that
invites international artists/
curators to organise or collaborate on exhibitions.
CITYSMART
Horizon Tower, 214 Tran
Quang Khai, Q1, Tel: (08)
3526 8833
citysmart.vn
CitySmart delivers a range
of diverse, internationallyrecognised educational programmes, as well as life skills
and character building for
comprehensive development.
GYMBOREE PLAY & MUSIC OF

VIETNAM
Somerset Chancellor Court,
1st Floor, 21-23 Nguyen Thi
Minh Khai, Q1, Tel: (08) 3827
7008
gymboreeclasses.com.vn
re.com
MEDICAL
& DENTAL
Diamond Plaza, 34 Le Duan,
Q1, Tel: (08) 3822 7848
com
Fullservice 24hour
evacuations.
STAMFORD SKIN CENTRE

99 Suong Nguyet Anh, Q1,
Tel: (08) 3925 1990
stamfordskin.com
Stamford Skin Centre offers
79 Dien Bien Phu, Q1, Tel:
(08) 3910 4545
Well-regarded clinic offering
general examinations and
specialising in pediatrics,
digestive diseases, cardiology, womens health and
internal medicine. Offers a
membership programme
and cooperates with most
insurance companies in Vietnam and abroad.
WE LINK
COUNSELLING
64 Ho Hao Hon, Q1, Tel: (08)
6291 2900
contact@welink.vn
Psychological counselling services for individual,
group and family. Diverse
counsellors and therapists,
using Cognitive Behaviour
Therapy, Art Therapy, Systemic Family Therapy. For
adolescents and adults. Vietnamese, English, French
and Spanish spoken.
SALONS & SPAS

CAT MOC SPA
63 Tran Dinh Xu, Q1, Tel: (08)
6295 8926
catmocspa.com
Aimed exclusively at ladies
and couples only, treatments at this Japanese spa
include facial, body and foot
care, and Japanese-style
haircuts, as well as steamsauna, paraffin and waxing
services.
HAIR BAR
CONTEMPORARY SALON
68 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel:
(FREEPHONE) 1800 1108
hairbar.vn
A unique themed hair salon
where stylists use no scissors but styling equipment
only, giving female clients the
opportunity to get their hair
done on the run. Of course,
they have to look fabulous,
too. Fortunately this is one of
Hair Bars specialities. Check
the salon out on Facebook:
facebook.com/hairbarvn.
SPA TROPIC
79 PHAN KE BINH, Q1, TEL: (08) 3910

5575
spatropic.com
Spa Tropic is a stylish boutique spa housed in the refurbished former Chilean
Consulate. Spa Tropic has
a long-standing reputation
among expats and visitors
alike for its professional
quality service.
HCMC
two pieces of each particular
item. Also has a great range
of imported fabrics up on the
2nd floor and an in-house
sewing room for cushions,
sofas and curtains. Offers
custom-made furniture and
delivery within four weeks.
Home dcor orders are also
available.
district 2
BAKERIES / BARS & CLUBS / CAFES / CLOTHING & ACCESSORIES / CRAFTS

& FURNITURE / EAT / FITNESS, DANCE & YOGA / GROCERIES, LIQUOR &
WINE / HAIRDRESSERS / INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS / MEDICAL & DENTAL /
SALONS & SPAS
CHI LAI
DISTRICT 2
Ni
Thao Dien
i
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H n
hQ
Bn
Ng
uy
n
V
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Binh Thanh
Ngu
o
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Xun Th
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Xun Th
BAKERY
Tel: (08) 6281 8392
The baking arm of the wellknown Bakers on Thao Dien,
Voelker. Provide flash frozen breads and patisseries
such as croissants, pain au
chocolat, pain raisins, pizza
dough, pates feuillete and
much more. Serves the hospitality industry in Phu Quoc,
Nha Trang, Phan Thiet and
Ho Chi Minh City.
LOAVES & FISHES
BAKERY / CAFE
5, Street 11, Thao Dien, Q2
Tel: (08) 3519 4118
harvestbaking.net
VOELKER
BAKERY
39 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08)
6296 0066
voelker-vietnam.com
Frenchrun bakery selling
probably the tastiest range
of patisseries, breads, quiches and pies in town. The signature passionfruit tart is
a must try.
BARS & CLUBS

BAAN THAI
SPORTS BAR / PAN-THAI CUISINE

3744 5453
baanthai-anphu.com
A bar and a Thai restaurant
all in one, the focus here is
not just the cuisine but a con-
Xa
DISTRICT 2
temporary bar area and live
sports. Lots of live sports.
The Thai cuisine is cooked
up by no-holds-barred Thai
chefs.
BMV PUB & GRILL

38 Quoc Huong, Q2 Tel:
01299 839314
facebook.com/bmv.pubgrill
With its seven TVs, full-size
mezzanine area, pool table
and aircon lounge space,
BMV is the perfect place in
District 2 to relax and watch
the sports. Has live music on
Thursday and Friday nights,
and is home to the only German Hofbrau Beer Garden in
Thao Dien.
BUDDHA BAR
RESTOBAR
3345 6345
Buddhabarsaigon.com
Just across the lane from
McSorleys, this pub with an
eccentric European tilt and
some nice, authentic cuisine
draws an older crowd with
darts, pool and weekly poker
tourneys.
MCSORLEYS
IRISH BAR
4 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: 0126
9026006
Standing in the former home
of Gaudi, McSorelys is full of
surprises, including a beautifully backlit swimming pool,
reggae parties, comedy
nights, and sporting events
projected onto the patio wall.
SAIGON OUTCAST
EVENTS / MAKESHIFT CAF BAR

188/1 Nguyen Van Huong,
Q2, Tel: 0122 4283198
Saigonoutcast.com
Up-cycling and innovative
design form the foundation
for this bar / arts venue /
mini- skate park. Come for
barbeque and reasonably
priced drinks, stick around
for entertaining events and
adorable puppies.
THE FAN CLUB
SPORTS BAR
Ground Floor, The Vista,
628C Hanoi Highway, Q2
dtdentertainment.com/thefanclub
12 quality screens and eight
draught beers, music spun
by DJs, excellent burgers,
quiz nights and barbecues.
All in an attractive, contemporary environment.
CAFES
AGNES CAFE
COFFEE & FLOWER HOUSE

11A-B Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08)
6281 9772
A cozy and comfortable cafe
in Thao Dien serving excellent fresh coffee from Dalat,
smoothies, juices, pastries
and desserts all day. Offers
a western-fare breakfast,
lunch and dinner menu with
a number of creative TexMex dishes mixed in with
salads and more typical
international cuisine. Now
open until 10pm, the nighttime ambience is relaxed
Th
Tr
BAKEUP ATELIER
Ni
nh
Song H
g
n Hon
Hu Cnh
BAKERIES
Nguy
n
uy
Ng
No
Trn
nh
Song H
n No
Xa
Mai Ch
ng
H
y n Vn
Binh Thanh
Th
and intimate.
CAF EVITA
LAID-BACK CAF / RESTAURANT

230A Nguyen Van Huong,
Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3512
3888

LITTLE ANH-EM
BABY & CHILDREN CLOTHING

37 Thao Dien, An Phu, Q2,
Tel: 0917 567506
In addition to a varied selection of garments for babies
and children up to 10 years
old, Little Anh-Em stocks
sleeping bags and other accessories.
VESPA SHOP
VESPA PRODUCTS / HELMETS

80 Xuan Thuy, Q2
Stocks a wide range of Vespa-inspired tidbits and memorabilia including t-shirts,
riding gear, Italian helmets,
Respro face masks, DVDs,
books, bags, magazines,
posters and more. Rental
scooters and bikes available.
CRAFTS & FURNITURE

AUSTIN HOME
REPRO FURNITURE / FABRICS

42 Nguyen Dang Giai, Q2, Tel:
(08) 3519 0023
austinhomeinteriors.com
Located in a villa-style
building, this An Phu-based
shop stocks antique repro
furniture. All products are
samples, so its limited and
exclusive with only one or
HOME FURNISHINGS
175 Ha Noi Highway, Q2, Tel:
(08) 3519 4543
chilai.com
This well-known Vietnamese
furniture brand is a good
choice for most families
with its respected high-quality designs and competitive
prices. Located on the corner of Pham Ngoc Thach and
Dien Bien Phu, the spacious
showroom specialises in sofas and other furniture such
as table sets, shelves and
kitchen cabinets. There is a
large selection of carpets as
well as numerous choices of
curtains and accessories.
FEELING TROPIC
FURNITURE & ACCESSORIES

51 Le Van Mien, Thao Dien,
Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 2181
8am to 6pm, closed Sundays
Specialising in interior designs and landscaping, this
three-storey building is so
packed full of items for sale
that it doesnt seem to have
enough space for all of its
products. The basement
storey carries outdoor furniture such as bamboo-imitation and mosaic table sets,
while the second level stocks
all types of indoor furniture
except beds. Accessories
are found on the level above.
Special orders are taken for
delivery within three weeks.
Also offers a rental service.
THE FURNITURE HOUSE
HOME FURNISHINGS
81 Xuan Thuy, Thao Dien, Q2,
Tel: (08) 3519 4640/4643
EAT
AGNES CAF
CAF FARE / TEX-MEX

11AB Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08)
6281 9772
A cozy and comfortable caf
offering up a western-fare
breakfast, lunch and dinner
menu with a number of creative Tex-Mex dishes mixed in
with salads and more typical
international cuisine. Open
until 10pm.
SHOPPING MALLS
DIAMOND PLAZA
34 Le Duan, Q1. Tel: (08)
3825 7750
9am to 10pm
Cosmetics, Perfume,
Clothing, Accessories,
Electronics, Caf, Food
Court
HUNG VUONG PLAZA

126 Hung Vuong, Q5. Tel:
(08) 2222 0383
9.30am to 10pm
Cosmetics, Perfume,
Court
PARKSON PLAZA
35-45 Le Thanh Ton, Q1.
Tel: (08) 3827 7636
9.30am to 10pm
Cosmetics, Perfume,
Court
SAIGON CENTRE
65 Le Loi, Q1. Tel: (08)
3829 4888
9am to 9pm
Cosmetics, Perfume,
Court
SAIGON SQUARE
77-89 Nam Ky Khoi Nghia,
Q1
9am to 9pm
Cosmetics, Perfume,
Electronics
SAIGON TAX
Trading Centre
135 Nguyen Hue, Q1. Tel:
(08) 3821 3849
9am to 9.30pm
Cosmetics, Perfume,
Electronics, Souvenirs,
Restaurant
VINCOM CENTER
70-72 Le Thanh Ton, Q1.
Tel: (08) 3936 9999
9am to 10pm
Cosmetics, Perfume,
Court
ZEN PLAZA
54-56 Nguyen Trai, Q1 Tel:
(08) 3925 0339
9am to 10pm
Cosmetics, Perfume,
Court
as firey larb moo and Laotian som tam. Thai cuisine
cooked up by no-holdsbarred Thai chefs.
BAAN THAI
PAN-THAI
3744 5453
baanthai-anphu.com
Subtle lighting and comfortable sofa-like seating at this
An Phu eatery. The menu
has a whole page dedicated
to tom yum soup as well
BOAT HOUSE
40 Lily Road, An Phu Superior Compound, Thao Dien,
Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6790
Live music, mini-festivals and
functions are regular events
at this spacious restobar in
An Phu on the banks of the
HCMC
SPORTS
Saigon river. The menu offers seasonal dishes, classic mains and sharing plates.
BOOM BOOM BURGER
US-STYLE BURGER JOINT

2 Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: 0909
532378
boomboomburgers.wago.co
A simple and tasty menu
similar to that of the USs InN-Out burger, the tiny Boom
Boom has chosen to focus on
the fundamentals of the perfect burger sweet potato
fries, jalapeno-infused beef
patties and special avocado
blends.
LA CLOSERIE DELISA
CRICKET
ECCS (THE ENGLISH CRICKET
CLUB OF SAIGON)
Richard Carrington, Tel:
0909 967 353
richard.carrington@market-edge.asia
eccsaigon.com
ICCS (INDIAN CRICKET CLUB OF

SAIGON)
Deeptesh Gill, Tel: 01228
770 038
deepteshgill@gmail.com
ISCS (INDIAN SPORTS CLUB IN

SAIGON)
Munish Gupta, Tel: 0986
973 244
gmunish29@yahoo.co.in
PSSC (PAKISTAN SAIGON

CRICKET CLUB)
Samie Cashmiri, Tel: 0976
469 090
samie.cashmiri@gmail.
com
SACC (SAIGON AUSTRALIA

CRICKET CLUB)
Steve Treasure, Tel: 0903
998 824
SACCCRICKET@GMAIL.COM
SSC (SRI LANKA SPORTS CLUB)
Suhard Amit, Tel: 0988
571 010
suhard.amit@yahoo.com
UCC (UNITED CRICKET CLUB)

Asif Ali, Tel: 0937 079 034
npasifali@hotmail.com
VIETNAM CRICKET ASSOCIATION (VCA)

Manish Sogani, Tel: 0908
200 598
manish@ambrij.com
FOOTBALL
AND
RUGBY
024 or Viet Luu 0909 500

171.
astere@hotmail.fr
SAIGON RAIDERS
Saigonraiders.com
SAIGON RUGBY CLUB

RMIT University, 702 Nguyen Van Linh, Tan Phong, Q7
saigonrugbyfootballclub@
yahoo.com
SAIGON SAINTS
saigonsaints.com
SPORTS GENERAL
HASH HOUSE HARRIERS
saigonhash.com
RANGERS BASEBALL TEAM

isao.shimokawaji@sapporobeer.co.jp
SAIGON INTERNATIONAL DARTS

LEAGUE
thesidl.com
SAIGON INTERNATIONAL SOFTBALL LEAGUE

saigonsoftball.info
SAIGON SHOOTERS NETBALL

CLUB
saigonshootersnetball.
blogspot.com
SAIGON SPORTS ACADEMY

28 Tran Nao, Q2, Tel: (08)
7303 1100
saigonsportsacademy.com
SQUASH
The Landmark, 5B Ton Duc
Thang, Q1, Tel: (08) 3822
2098 ext 176
TORNADOS HOCKEY CLUB

436A/33 Ba Thang Hai,
Q10, Tel: 0938 889899
James.chew@vietnamhockey.vn
AUSTRALIAN RULES FOOTBALL
ULTIMATE FRISBEE
Tel: 0937 683 230

vietnamswans.com
RMIT, 702 Nguyen Van

Linh, Q7
Saigon-ultimate.com
LES GAULOIS DE SAIGON

gauloisdesaigon.com
XROCK CLIMBING
OLYMPIQUE SAIGON
7Nguyen Dinh Chieu, Q3,

Tel: (08) 6278 5794
xrockclimbing.com
Contact Fred on 0919 709
FRENCH / GARDEN RESTAURANT

52 Ngo Quang Huy, Q2
A tropical garden ambience
that is at once French yet
contemporary Indochinese
is the home of this table
dhote style restaurant and
bar. Classic French cuisine
at reasonable prices in the
heart of Thao Dien.
LA PLANCHA
(08) 6281 8521
LU BU
CONTEMPORARY MEDITERRANEAN
97B Thao Dien, Q2 Tel: (08)
6281 8371
luburestaurant.com
Drawing inspiration from
the great cuisines of Europe, The Mediterranean
and The Orient, this contemporary, Australian-run
restaurant bathed in white
focuses on wholesome,
fresh ingredients, with
breads, cheeses, pickles,
pastas and preserves made
on site daily from scratch. A
well-conceived wine list supplements the excellent fare.
Has petanque on the terrace.
Italian restaurant, classic fare is combined with a

special contemporary menu
that brings together a fusion
of European dishes, cooked
up with Italian flair. Excellent Facebook-based delivery service. Go to facebook.
com/Pendolasco2 for full
menu and info.
49 Thao Dien, Q2 Tel. (08)

3602 6385
TAMAGO
CHIARA SQUINZI
AUTHENTIC JAPANESE
39 Tong Huu Dinh, Q2, Tel:
(08) 3744 4634
tamagoresto@gmail.com
Located on the main drag
in Thao Dien, Tamago has
indoor and out door seating,
a terrace and private rooms.
They have a ladies night on
Tuesdays as well as a Teppanyaki themed night on
Saturday evenings. Have a
second restaurant in Mui Ne.
THE DECK
MODERN ASIAN FUSION

38 Nguyen U Di, Q2, Tel: (08)
3744 6632
thedecksaigon.com
Set on the banks of Saigon
River across from Thanh
Da Island, this innovative
restaurant serves up modern Asian fusion cuisine in a
Bali-style atmosphere, complemented by great cocktails
and a long wine list.
THE LOOP
HEALTHY CAF FARE / BAGELS

AQUAFIT
AQUABIKING
65 Truc Duong, Lang Bao
Chi, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: 0909
008985
aquafit.vn
Tel: 01278 163620

laholista.com
Experienced health coach
as well as a corporate and
school wellness coach. Can
help clients achieve their
health and weight goals
through the innovative holistic approach of food, body
and mind. For more info
email chiara@laholista.com.
K1 FITNESS & FIGHT FACTORY
BOXING / MARTIAL ARTS

100 Xuan Thuy, Thao Dien,
Q2, Tel: 0909 540030
NUTRIFORT (NTFQ2)
GENERAL FITNESS
34 Nguyen Dang Giai, Q2, Tel:
(08) 3744 6672
nutrifort.com
A well-appointed gym also
offering fitness classes and
personal training with excellent facilities. Group classes
include power yoga, pilates,
circuit training, martial arts
and spinning. Also has a restaurant serving caloriecalibrated meals.
CYRIL AND YOU SPORTS CENTER
BOXING / FITNESS
49A Xa Lo Ha Noi, Q2. Tel:
0947 77 13 26
Cyril-and-you.com
This sports centre in An Phu,
started by fitness guru Cyril
features the same personalized mentorship Cyrils
clients love. Includes yoga,
boxing and fitness for kids
and adults every day. No
membership fees. Pay for
classes in installments of
10. Also has kids activites
classes. Monday to Friday
every week at 4pm. All activities are safe and run by
Cyril himself.
GROCERIES, LIQUOR & WINE

100%
MADE IN VIETNAM GROCERIES

26B Thao Dien, Q2
100percentvn.com
ANNAM GOURMET MARKET
GROCERY & DELI

41A Thao Dien, Q2, Tel: (08)
3744 2630
Annam-gourmet.com
Attractive and spacious
Frenchowned grocery
shop stocking a large range
of foods, organic fruit and
MEKONG MERCHANT
INTERNATIONAL CAFE FARE /

SEAFOOD
23 Thao Dien, An Phu, Q2,
Tel: (08) 3744 6478
info@mekongmerchant.com
The rustic looking, bananaleaf roofed Mekong Merchant has long been the
place in An Phu. Set around
a cobble-stoned courtyard
the cuisine includes gourmet
seafood and pastas. Bakerystyle Bistro out front.
PAPAGAYO
FRENCH BISTRO / COCKTAILS

(08) 6252 1333
facebook.com/papagayosaigon
PENDOLASCO
PAN-ITALIAN
36 Tong Huu Dinh, Q2, Tel:
(08) 6253 2828
pendolasco.vn
Saigons longest running
HCMC
vegetables, imported beers
and wines. Also sells luxury
branded products from the
likes of Fauchon. The deli
upstairs in the Hai Ba Trung
branch serves tasty baguette
rolls in a comfortable lounge
area with free WiFi, and offers probably the best selection of cheese and cured
meats in town. Free delivery
for Districts 1, 2 and 3.
CLASSIC FINE FOODS
GROCERIES & IMPORTER

No. 17, Street 12 (perpendicular to Tran Nao street),
Q2, Tel: (08) 3740 7105
classicfinefoods.com
Supplier for the citys five
star hotels, also distributing
brands like San Pellegrino,
Rougie foie gras, Galbani
cheese, fresh poultries,
meat, live seafood and vegetables. You can now find all
the products at the gourmet
shop on location.
VINO WINE SHOP
WINE SHOP
Corner of Thao Dien & Duong
2, Q2, Tel: (08) 6281 9059
Professional advice on selecting and tasting wines
with a portfolio spanning
old and new world as well
as everything in between.
The outdoor terrace area is
the perfect spot to sample a
new tipple.
HAIRDRESSERS
CONCEPT COIFFURE
(08) 3519 4625
Conceptcoiffure.vn
Open daily from 9am to 8pm
Hair stylist and colourist specialist Sandrine has relocated her long-standing flagship
salon Venus Coiffure to a villa
in Thao Dien. A full range of
services is offered including
a dedicated kids salon.
EUROPEAN INTERNATIONAL
SCHOOL HO CHI MINH CITY (EIS)
730 F-G-K Le Van Mien, Thao
Dien, D2, HCMC, Vietnam.
Tel: (08) 7300 7257
info@eishcmc.com
www.eishcmc.com
Located in the heart of Thao
Dien, District 2, the EUROPEAN International School
Ho Chi Minh City offers a
supportive and challenging
academic education from
Early Years to Grade 12
based on the IB curriculum.
EIS is a Nobel Talent School
and is part of the Nobel Education Network. The school
educates global citizens to
enjoy learning, inquiring and
caring for others.
AUSTRALIAN INTERNATIONAL
SCHOOL (AIS)
Xi Campus, 190 Nguyen Van
Huong, Q2, Tel: (08) 3519
2727; Thao Dien Campus,
APSC Compound, 36 Thao
Dien, Q2, Tel: (08) 3744
6960; Thu Thiem Campus,
264 Mai Chi Tho (East-West
Highway), An Phu, Q2, Tel:
(08) 3742 4040
aisvietnam.com
The Australian International
School is an IB World School
with three world-class campuses in District 2, offering
an international education
from kindergarten to senior
school with the IB Primary
Years Programme (PYP),
Cambridge Secondary Programme (including IGCSE)
and IB Diploma Programme
(DP).
BRITISH INTERNATIONAL
SCHOOL (BIS)
Tel: (08) 3744 2335
bisvietnam.com
Inspected and approved
by the British Government,
BIS provides a British style
curriculum for an international student body from
pre-school to Year 13. The
school is staffed by British
qualified and trained teachers with recent UK experience. Fully accredited by
the Council of International
Schools and a member of
FOBISIA, BIS is the largest
international school in Vietnam.
INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL HO CHI

MINH CITY (ISHCMC)
(08) 3898 9100
ishcmc.com
The only fully authorized IB
World School in Ho Chi Minh
City, ISHCMC has been
awarding graduates with an
IB Diploma and sending them
off to high-profile overseas
universities since 1999.
MONTESSORI INTERNATIONAL
SCHOOL
42/1 Ngo Quang Huy, Q2,
Tel: (08) 3744 2639
montessori.edu.vn
Aiming to encourage childrens engagement with
their surroundings, MIS
offers children from age
three to 12 a classic Montessori education as well as
a variety of extracurricular
activities.
SAIGON KIDS EDUCATIONAL

CHILDCARE CENTRE
15 Street 12, perpendicular
to Tran Nao, Q2, Tel: (08)
3740 8081
saigonkidskindergarten.
com
SKECC has evolved over 10
years to create a creative,
playful learning environment for children ages two
to six. Limited class sizes and
highly engaged teachers en-
sure personal attention for

all students.
SAIGON STAR INTERNATIONAL

SCHOOL
Residential Area No. 5,
Thanh My Loi, Q2, Tel: (08)
3742 7827
saigonstarschool.edu.vn
Supported by the Cambridge
International Primary Programme, SSIS integrates
Montessori methods into
nursery and kindergarten
programmes to create a
stimulating learning environment. Small class sizes
allow experienced teachers
to cater to individual needs.
SMARTKIDS
1172 Thao Dien Compound,
Q2, Tel: (08) 3744 6076; 26,
Street Nr. 10, Thao Dien, Q2,
Tel: (08) 3898 9816; 15 Tran
Ngoc Dien, Thao Dien, Q2, Tel:
(08) 3519 4236
smartkidsinfo.com
This international childcare
centre provides children
ages 18 months to six years
with a high quality education
in a playful and friendly environment.
THE AMERICAN SCHOOL

OF VIETNAM
172-180 Nguyen Van Huong,
Q2, Tel: 0903 952223
theamericanschool.edu.vn
KIDS
FIRSTBIKE VIETNAM
www.firstBIKE.com.vn
FirstBIKE balance bikes for
two to five-year-olds eliminate the need for training
wheels or stabilisers, and
support proper balance development.
MEDICAL & DENTAL

3744 2000
com
Fullservice 24hour
evacuations.
SALONS & SPAS

AUTHENTIC SPA
Thao Dien Village, Nguyen
Van Huong, Q2, Tel: 3744
2222
AVEDA HERBAL SPA
Villa 35A, Street 41, Thao

Dien, Q2, Tel:(08) 3519 4671
avedaherbal@gmail.com
QUYNH BEAUTY SALON
104A Xuan Thuy, Thao Dien,

Q2, Tel: (08) 3512 4321
district 3
BARS & CLUBS / CAFES & ICE-CREAM / CLOTHING & ACCESSORIES /

CRAFTS & FURNITURE / EAT / FITNESS, DANCE & YOGA / HAIRDRESSERS /
INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS / MEDICAL & DENTAL / SALONS & SPAS
BARS & CLUBS
ACOUSTIC
LIVE MUSIC
6E Ngo Thoi Nhiem, Q3, Tel:
(08) 3930 2239
Though only 1km from the
city centre, Acoustic is well
off most foreigners radars.
Come see the Vietnamese
house band play nightly, as
well as performances from
overseas bands and guest
artists.
CLOUD 9
LOUNGE BAR & TERRACE

6th & 7th Floor, 2bis Cong
Truong Quoc Te, Q3, Tel:
0907 502951
CLUB DARTS, DARTS, DARTS
LIVE MUSIC / EVENTS VENUE

224A Pasteur, Q3, Tel: 0948
031323
WOODSTOCK BAR
MUSIC BAR / CAFE

39 Ba Huyen Thanh Quan.Q3.
Tel: (08) 39304075
metallicbar.com
Showcases a variety of different types of music anything from rock, pop and rap
to Latino as well as the everlasting songs of Metallica,
Bon Jovi, Scorpions, Santana
and Guns n Roses. Covered
live by well-known, Vietnambased Filipino bands. Music
starts at 8.30pm.
PLAN B
CONTEMPORARY BAR
0987 684761

Tel: (08) 3932 2778
budsicecream.com.vn
HIDEAWAY
INTERNATIONAL
41/1 Pham Ngoc Thach, Q3,
Tel: (08) 3822 4222
Hideawaycafe-saigon.com
Hidden in a colonial building
with an outdoor courwrd,
the ample soft, sofa seating renders a great spot to
relax. The mouth-watering
western menu is on the expensive side.
OPERATION: TEAROOM
TEA ROOM
335/31 Dien Bien Phu, Q3,
Tel: 0169 3583563
operationteavietnam.com
Traverse a wooden bridge
over a bamboo-shaded goldfish pond to enjoy high quality tea, starting at VND35,000,
in this quaint, open-air tearoom. Tea and tea-ware
available for purchase.

BAM SKATE SHOP
SKATEWEAR / STREET
0903 641826
Bamskateshop.com.vn
BOO
STREETWEAR
187A Hai Ba Trung, Q3
boo.vn
CRAFTS
& FURNITURE
ONTOP BAR
Novotel Saigon, 167 Hai Ba
Trung, Q3, Tel: (08) 3822
4866
Located on the 20th floor
with stunning views of the
city, houses an upscale,
contemporary interior and
an outdoor terrace. A good
venue to chill out in a relaxed and casual, yet hip
ambience.
ROCKFANCLUB BAR
ROCK BAR
25C Tu Xuong, Q3, Tel: (08)
6290 7489
CAFES & ICE-CREAM

ANS INTERIOR CAF
40C Tran Cao Van, Q3, Tel:
(08) 3823 3398
BUDS
ICE-CREAM PARLOUR
ATC FURNITURE
ECO-FRIENDLY FURNITURE
SR1: 268B Nam Ky Khoi
Nghia, Dist.3, HCMC, Tel: (08)
39326455
SR2: 30A Nguyen Huu Canh,
Binh Thanh, HCMC, Tel: (08)
38403946
atc-craft.com
Filled with the scent of nature, is it what you are looking for to spice up the living
space of your home? Come
to ATC FURNITURE, you will
find a wide range of moderndesigned products (sofas,
chairs, beds...) manufactured
from eco-friendly materials
(water hyacinth & rattan). Our
outdoor (poly rattan) wickerfurniture range is suited
to your balcony or garden
space. A hanging (hammock)
chair is irresistible for complete relaxation after a long
day at work.
REMIX DECO
INDOOR FURNITURE
222 Nguyen Thi Minh Khai,
Q3, Tel: (08) 3930 4190
remixdeco.com
EAT
AU LAC DO BRAZIL
BRAZILIAN CHURRASCO
3820 7157
aulacdobrazil.com
Open for over a decade, Au
Lac Do Brazil is home to the
city's best Churrasco menu
with a wide variety of meats
from Calabrian sausage
and picanha through to
D-rump steak and smoked
hams. Pioneering the eatas-much-as-you-can theme
in Vietnam, Passadors bring
the meat skewers to your
table, and you, the customer
then choose your accompaniments from the salad bar.
Best washed down with red
wine or a Caipirinha or five.
BANH CANH HOANG TY
BANH CANH / TAY NINH CUISINE

70 Vo Van Tan, Q3
BEEFSTEAK NAM SON
VIETNAMESE STEAKHOUSE
200 Bis Nguyen Thi Minh
Khai, Q3; 157 Nam Ky Khoi
Nghia, Q3, Tel: (08) 3930 3917
Namsonsteak.com
HIGHWAY 4
NORTHERN / PAN-VIETNAMESE
3602 2069
highway4.com
Named after the mountain
highway that skirts the Chinese-Vietnamese border to
the north, Highway 4 serves
up authentic north Vietnamese cuisine. Also does
excellent Son Tinh branded
rice wine.
JOIE DE VIVRE
WESTERN / FRENCH
292/10, Cach Mang Thang
Tam, Q3 Tel: (08) 6260 0066
facebook.com/joie.vn
PHO HOA
PHO EATERY
260C Pasteur, Q3, Tel: (08)
3829 7943
SHRI
CONTEMPORARY EUROPEAN
23rd Floor, Centec Tower,
7274 Nguyen Thi Minh
Khai, Q3, Tel: (08) 3827 9631
A breezy terrace, indoor
HCMC
SUSHI DINING AOI
SUSHI / SASHIMI
53-55 Ba Huyen Thanh
Quan, Q3, Tel: (08) 3930
0039
sushidiningaoi.com
Sushi Dining AOI offers fullblown Japanese-style sushi,
sashimi, and other dishes
such as tempura, pork cutlet and cold soba noodles
in a warm and friendly atmosphere. Good value set
lunches. Probably the best
sushi in town.
HUE / VIETNAMESE
(08) 3829 7242
Tibrestaurant.com.vn
VIET CHAY
Qu
nh
2 and 3. Private and group

yoga classes. Home visits
available.
SAIGON BELLY DANCE
BELLY DANCE
No 96, Street 2, Cu Xa Do
Thanh, Q3, Tel: (08) 3832
9429
saigonbellydance.com
HAIRDRESSERS
YOGA
Tel: 0909 648193
michelle@michellelloyd.com
michellelloyd.com
American trained and licensed massage therapist
and certified yoga instructor. Dedicated yoga and
massage spaces in Districts
S
Ph
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Tr
Th
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VEGAN
Vinh Nghiem Pagoda, 339
Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3
vietchay.vn
MICHELLE LLOYD YOGA & MASSAGE THERAPY
Th
YKC HAIR STUDIO

(08) 3829 2791
CITYSMART
7 Street 2, Cu Xa Do Thanh,
Q3, Tel: (08) 3832 8488
citysmart.vn
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INTERNATIONAL SOS HCMC

MEDICAL CLINIC
INTERNATIONAL CLINIC / MEDIVAC
167A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3,
Tel: (08) 3829 8424
internationalsos.com
The worlds leading provider
of medical assistance and
international healthcare offers primary health care, diagnostic services and 24/7
emergency care. Specialist
care is available in many
fields.
STAMFORD SKIN CENTRE
Th
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L
Thi
Tr
Ca
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Ph
L Thi T
bar and separate dining

room with sweeping views
over central Saigon make
up this enormous, comfortable space. A well-thought
out and romantic venue,
with excellent food.
Th
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Ca
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Na
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Th
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Th
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Ba
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District
10
Tr
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Th
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District 1
Ha
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Sa
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Na
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H o
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Tr
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Tr
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Sa
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C
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Th
Binh Thanh
DISTRICT 3

167A Nam Ky Khoi Nghia, Q3,
Tel: (08) 3829 8424
internationalsos.com
Globally renowned provider
of medical assistance and
international healthcare
offers full dental services
in the clinic. Foreign and Vietnamese dentists provide
high skilled dental service.
Orthodontics is also available.
CitySmart delivers a range

of diverse, internationallyrecognised educational
programmes, as well as life
skills and character building
for comprehensive development.
VAS
98 Cach Mang Thang Tam,

Q3, Tel: (08) 3930 7278
vas.edu.vn
MEDICAL & DENTAL

STARLIGHT DENTAL CLINIC

2 Bis Cong Truong Quoc Te,
Q3, Tel: (08) 3822 6222
starlightdental.net
Longestablished, modern
clinic with French, Canadian, Belgian & Vietnamese
dentists. A favourite of the
foreign residential community due to its modern and

effective treatments allied
with extremely reasonable
prices.
AMERICAN CHIROPRACTIC CLINIC
CHIROPRACTOR
161-161A Hai Ba Trung, Q3,
Tel: (08) 3939 3930
www.acc.vn
A clinic provides world class
Chiropractic, Physiotherapy
and Foot Care. We specialize
in provides effective treatment for back, neck and knee
pain, sports injuries, and all
types of foot problems. We
also provide effective treatment for Flat foot syndrome
in children and adult.
INTERNATIONAL SOS DENTAL

CLINIC

99 Suong Nguyet Anh, Q1
Tel: (08). 3925 1990 - 0908
453 338
stamfordskin.com
Stamford Skin Centre offers
a broad range of medical and
aesthetic skin treatments.
Their international dermatologists and doctors ensure
accurate diagnosis and safe
treatment procedures. It
houses excellent equipment
for a variety of procedures.
TRADITIONAL MEDICINE
HOSPITAL
EASTERN MEDICINE
Tel: (08) 3932 6579
SALONS & SPAS

AVEDA HERBAL SPA
Villa 35A, Street 41, Thao
Dien, Q2, Tel:(08) 3519 4671
avedaherbal@gmail.com
YKC SPA
(08) 3829 2791
ykcspa.com
HCMC
FOOD PROMOS
A Taste of Malaysia
@ New World Hotel
Its a brand new world at New World this
September, with a Malaysian guest chef
crafting traditional dishes from Sep. 10
to Sep. 21 Malaysia Tourism Boardorganised traditional dancers will be
adding flavour. At Parkview, lunch and
dinner buffets will offer sizzling satay,
lamb rendang, char kway teow (stir-fried
ricecake noodle) and nasi kerabu (a rice
dish) all for VND610,000 for lunch, or
VND910,000 for dinner. Dynasty is serving
up a five-course set for VND400,000 for
lunch or VND650,000 for dinner, with a la
carte options of fried Hokkien noodles, beef
hor fun, and prawn wonton noodle soup.
And even The Lounge is getting in on
the festivities, with free flow teh tarik tea,
sweet and savoury Malaysian treats and a
live action station with traditional roti jala
available 3pm to 5pm for VND250,000
per person.
Harvest at Snap
@ Snap Caf
snap.com.vn
Snap has always been a Thao Dien nexus
for breakfast, and now theyve added
some of the best baked goods in the city,
courtesy of Harvest Baking. Theyve
added their awesome scones, cookies,
bagels and cakes to Snaps repertoire, and
made your breakfast decisions that much
harder.
At the InterCon, Time Marches On

@ InterContinental Asiana Saigon
icasianasaigon.com
Hard to believe its been five years already,
but thats the anniversary the InterCon is
celebrating this Sep. 9. Its not like they
havent been busy, racking up awards and
becoming more a part of the community
with every occasion celebrated at their
world-class restaurants.
This month, theyre inviting you to
celebrate with them. Stop into Market
39 to take in a flute or two of Veuve, as
part of a VND555,000++ free flow offer
theyre running on evening buffets,
which start at VND899,000++. Or visit
their Asian restaurant Yu Chu for a taste
of one of their signatures starting at
VND110,000++ this month. But dont
neglect Basilicos three-course Italian set,
specially designed for the occasion, which
runs VND450,000++ including a glass of
wine. After all that, Spa InterContinental
will rub your belly and anything else that
The flavours of Malaysia come to the New World Hotel this month
aches for VND1.39 million++, as part of

their traditional remedy-inflected 90-minute
Beautiful Package treatment.
Shangs For Everything!

@ Shang Palace
shangpalace.com.vn
Its time to go back to school, and you need
to keep your energy up. Thats why Shang
Palace is dishing out devastating beefsteak
with black pepper and BBQ sauce, dainty
sauted beef cubes with avocado salad and
delirious US beef cubes in walnuts and XO
chilli sauce through the whole month. Yum!
The Glories of Poultry

@ Reflections, Caravelle Hotel
caravellehotel.com
From Sep. 13 to Sep. 19, Reflections chefs
are masterminding new treatments for
duck, chicken, turkey, quail and roast
pigeon from pan-fried duck liver
medallions to smoked free-range chicken

on toasted sourdough. Three courses
for VND810,000++ or four courses for
VND938,000++ wont have you crying
fowl!
Time to Get Happy

@ Renaissance Riverside Saigon
renaissance-saigon.com
The Renaissance is ensuring that all its
guests stay happy this month with a
Happy Hour Extravaganza on Friday Sep.
12. Between 5.30pm and 9.30pm, cocktails
in the Atrium Lounge will go for just
VND140,000++ a glass.
This will be followed up by a German Beer
Night in the Atrium Lounge on Saturday
Sep. 20, perfect for those who cant wait
for Oktoberfest. With a free-flow of the
good stuff going for just VND170,000++,
including a choice of snacks, the 6.30pm to
8.30pm event is one not to be missed.
HCMC
phu my hung
CRESCENT WELLNESS CLUB
GYM, POOL, SQUASH

3rd Floor, Crescent Plaza,
105 Ton Dat Tien, Phu My
Hung, Tel: (08) 5412 1277
The-crescent.com
Overlooking the Crescent
complexs lagoon, this centre offers modern facilities, a
gym with Technogym equipment allowing users to track
their progress. Includes fitness classes, yoga, squash
courts, pool, steam bath and
nutrition bar.
BAKERIES / BARS & CLUBS / CRAFTS & FURNITURE / EAT / FITNESS, DANCE
& YOGA / INTERNATIONAL SCHOOLS / MEDICAL & DENTAL
ng
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Nguyn
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INTENSIVE / FULL-BODY WORKOUTS

206 Tran Van Tra, Q7, Tel:
01654 058401 / 01629
546534
cezsaigon@gmail.com
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PANORMA FITNESS
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DISTRICT 7
PHU MY HUNG
BAKERIES
LAMOUR
BAKERY & CAFE

Hung Phuoc 2, Le Van Thiem,
Q7, Tel: (08) 5410 4072
lamourbakery.com.vn
SAVOURE
BAKERY
Grand View, SD 4-1, Nguyen
Duc Canh, Q7
SIMRANS
BAKERY
SL15-1 Grand View, Nguyen
Duc Canh, Q7, Tel: 0908
828552
simrans.sg
BARS & CLUBS

BANANA BAR
EXPAT BAR
SA8-1 Parkview, Nguyen
Duc Canh, Phu My Hung, Q7,
Tel: (08) 5412 3282
A downstairs pool table, an
open, street side terrace and
specials on Tiger draft, this
fun but slightly run-down
joint is a local haunt for many
a resident of Saigon South.
PEACHES
CURRY PUB
S57-1 Sky Garden 2, Phu
My Hung, Q7, Tel: (08) 5410
0999
Known as the Curry Pub,
this pleasant Saigon South
watering hole mixes the beer
with all things curry anything from Goan fish curries
to beef rendangs and more.
A popular local haunt.
RUBY SOHO
CARTOON BAR
S52-1 Sky Garden 2, Q7, Tel:
(08) 5410 3900
THE TAVERN
EXPAT & SPORTS BAR

R2-24 Hung Gia 3, Bui Bang
Doan, Q7, Tel: (08) 5410
3900
The first bar established in
Saigon South, great food,
great music and loads of
laughs. Has regular live
music nights, theme nights
and a variety of live sports
events to please everybody.
Big screens and outdoor
seating add to the mix, with
BBQs available for parties
and events.
CRAFTS & FURNITURE

BELLAVITA
HIGH-END FURNITURE
The Crescent Mall, 101 Ton
Dat Tien, Q7, Tel: (08) 5413
7355
bellavitafurniture.com
MEKONG CREATIONS
FAIR TRADE CRAFTS

35-37 Ngo Duc Ke, Q1, Tel:
(08) 2210 3110; S17 Sky
Garden, Nguyen Van Linh,
Q7, Tel: (08) 6271 7758
mekong-creations.org
MEKONG QUILTS
HAND-MADE QUILTS
S17-1 Sky Garden , Nguyen
Van Linh, Q7, Tel: (08) 6271
7758
mekong-quilts.org
EAT
BOOMARANG BISTRO SAIGON
INTERNATIONAL / GRILL
CR2 3-4, 107 Ton Dat Tien,
Phu My Hung, Q7, Tel: (08)
5413 6592
boomarang.com.vn
Australian themed but Singaporean-owned eatery and
bar on The Crescent with
great terraced seating specializing in huge-portioned
international fare, all set in
a contemporary, spacious
environment.
CHAM CHARM
LUXURY INDOCHINA
2 Phan Van Chuong, Q7, Tel:
(08) 5410 9999
EL GAUCHO
Unit CR1-12, The Crescent,
Phu My Hung, Q7, Tel: (08)
5413 6909
elgaucho.com.vn
A pleasant downtown eatery mixing an Argentinian
steakhouse theme with pork,
chicken, lamb, homemade
spicy sausage, skewers,
burger dishes and everything that can come off a
grill.
HOANG YEN
PAN-VIETNAMESE
The Crescent, 103 Ton Dat
Tien, Q7, Tel: (08) 2210 2304
MING DYNASTY
LAVISH CHINESE / VIETNAMESE

23 Nguyen Khac Vien, Q7, Tel:
(08) 5411 5555
NATHALIES
THAI / VIETNAMESE
S9 Hung Vuong 3, Q7, Tel:
(08) 5410 0822
nathaliesrestaurant.com
SALT & PEPPER
PAN-ITALIAN
The Crescent, Phu My Hung,
Q7, Tel: (08) 5412 4848
SCOTT AND BINHS
INTERNATIONAL
15-17 Cao Trieu Phat, Phu
My Hung, Q7, Tel: 0948
901465
bizuhotel.com/main/pages/
scottbinhs.php
Serving creative, all homemade comfort food, this
restaurant boasts a full bar,
ice-cold beer and an international wine list to complement meals. Has a focus
on the creative use of local
ingredients.
VIVA TAPAS BAR & GRILL
GRILL & BAR/ TAPAS

R4-28 Cao Trieu Phat, Phu
My Hung, Q7
facebook.com/VIVATapasBar.pmh
As well as classical Andalusian tapas, VIVA serves up a
selection of original but flavourful dishes for those who
dare to try. A Mediterranean-themed interior and a desire to provide something not
presently available in Saigon
South sets this joint apart.
tional British school providing an inclusive curriculum

based upon the British curriculum complemented by
the International Primary
Curriculum and International Baccalaureate. It is a
family school with first-class
facilities including a 350seat theatre, swimming pool,
mini-pool, play-areas, gymnasium, IT labs, music and
drama rooms, science labs
and an all-weather pitch.
SAIGON SOUTH INTERNATIONAL

SCHOOL (SSIS)
78 Nguyen Duc Canh, Q7, Tel:
(08) 5413 0901
ssis.edu.vn
Offers an American-style
education (SAT, IB and AP)
from elementary to highschool, emphasizing a multicultural student environment and a commitment to
wellrounded education at
all levels.
ABC INTERNATIONAL SCHOOL

(ABCIS)
Saigon South Campus 1 (Primary & Secondary), Tel: (08)
5431 1833; Saigon South
Campus 2 (Foundation Stage
& Early Primary), Tel: (08)
5431 1833
theabcis.com
Rated as outstanding by
British government inspectors, academic results puts
ABCIS among the top 8 percent of schools worldwide.
Provides education for two
to 18 year olds in a supportive and friendly environment.
CANADIAN INTERNATIONAL
SCHOOL
13C Phong Phu Commune,
Binh Chanh, Tel: (08) 5412
3456
cis.edu.vn
The first Canadian international school in Vietnam
serves local and foreign
students from Kindergarten
to grade 12. Talented, certified teachers implement the
internationally recognised
Ontario curriculum to create a student-centred learning environment promoting
academic excellence.
MEDICAL & DENTAL

AMERICAN EYE CENTER
5th Floor, Crescent Plaza,
105 Ton Dat Tien, Q7
Tel: 5413 6758 / 5413 6759
www.americaneyecentervn.
com
American Eye Center is located in the heart of Phu My
Hung, providing eye care
services to Adults and Children by an American Boardcertified ophthalmologist
with 17 years of experience.
The American-standard
facility is equipped with
state of the art equipments
for the early detection and
treatment of important eye
diseases from Lasik and cataract surgeries to presbyopia, glaucoma and diabetic
eye disease treatments.
Cosmetic procedures such
as eyelid surgery and Botox
injections are also available.
FV HOSPITAL
102 My Kim 2, Phu My Hung,

Q7, Tel: (08) 5421 1052
lgkids.vn
6 Nguyen Luong Bang, Saigon South Parkway, Q7, Tel:
(08) 5411 3333
Emergency: (08) 5411 3500
fvhospital.com
International hospital
whose standard of health
care matches that found
anywhere, with 19 fulltime
French doctors and 58 Vietnamese doctors, providing
expertise in 30 medical and
surgical areas, especially
maternity care.
RENAISSANCE INTERNATIONAL
SCHOOL SAIGON
HAPPINESS (HANH PHUC) ORIENTAL MEDICINE CENTER
KINDERMUSIK EARLY CHILDHOOD EDUCATION CENTRE

Crescent Residence 2, 107
Ton Dat Tien, Q7, Tel: 0907
099 480
kindermusik-vietnam.com
LITTLE GENIUS INTERNATIONAL

KINDERGARTEN
74 Nguyen Thi Thap, D7,

Tel: (08)3773 33171 ext
120/121/122
renaissance.edu.vn
Renaissance is an Interna-
EASTERN MEDICINE
432 Pham Thai Buong, Q7,
Tel: 0906 684 969
HCMC
STUDENT EYE
DIGITAL MEMORY
he way things change in the

teenage years snaps into focus
on that most important day
of the calendar the birthday.
Teenagers birthdays may include an
exciting night out partying with friends:
dancing, socialising and maybe even
getting drunk. Other, more toned down
celebrations take the form of a fancy
birthday dinner or a gathering with
some of their closest friends and family
members. They tend to avoid calling
these birthday parties, a word which
often evokes images of balloons, cone
hats and bouncy castles. But today there
is another, more generally practised
birthday custom, which only requires a
phone or a laptop.
It seems nowadays, everything has
become digitised, even teenagers
birthdays. Facebook will pop up its pink
cake icon, reminding its users about
an upcoming birthday of one of their
friends. And by the time the birthday boy
or girl logs in, their timelines have been
flushed with birthday posts.
Sometimes from closer friends, the
post contains a collage of selfies that they
took with the birthday teens along with
lengthy paragraphs that explain how

thankful and important he or she is. It
even seems some of these trends have
caught on with adults as well. Although
some people might praise this marvelous
development of technology that makes
the world more open and connected, it
also has another effect, one that actually
trivialises birthdays.
Different Year, Same Thing

With daily Facebook birthday reminders,
its become somewhat of a routine to
post a simple, emotionless birthday
wish like hpbd, have a great one. And
with this routine comes an expectation
of receiving one back on ones birthday.
Now, despite all the interest that
friends have shown them, these
birthday posts become more a burden
than anything they might not even
remember half their well-wishers. The
whole process appears to be laborious
and often quite meaningless.
This new birthday culture has also
led teens attitudes to change. Birthdays
used to be dates that close family and
friends memorised, flowers and stars
marking them on the calendar. They
were special days not only because it

was the date one was born on, but a date
that was dedicated and associated with
a particular person. But with Facebook
and all those new apps shooting up
notifications and reminders, people no
longer memorise these dates. Actually,
everyone remembers everyones birthday,
which has drained the unique aspect that
birthdays used to hold.
It is unlikely you will ever read those
birthday posts again, which disappear
into a special birthday wish grouping
that may never be looked at. But it is
much harder to throw away a birthday
card, which youll keep with you much
longer, not only in your drawer but in
your memory as well.
This year, if you cant be there for
your friends birthday, you can still do
something positive. Write them a card or
give them a phone call, and give them
one less repetitive post to like. Tae
Jun Park
Tae Jun Park is a high school senior at
the United Nations International School of
Hanoi, unishanoi.org
L Hi Phim c
Vo l hi ln th nm ny, Vin Goethe s
mang n Vit Nam nhng thc phim mi
v hay nht ca in nh c, v s c trnh
chiu nm thnh ph bao gm Si Gn, H
Ni v Nng. Vi khong 50,000 ngi n
tham d vo l hi nm trc, phim dnh cho
tt c mi ngi, v s c mt bui hp mt
vi nh lm phim Constanze Knoche v Leis
Bagdach i Hc Hoa Sen Si Gn vo ngy
8/9. H l hai nh vit li thoi cho nhiu phim
truyn hnh thnh cng ca c, v cng nhau
lm mt vi b phim ni bt v phim ti liu,
bao gm b phim The Visitors.
V min ph ti Vin Goethe v ti cc rp
Cinebox, 212 L Chnh Thng, Q3, Tp. HCM v
Trung Tm Chiu Phim Quc Gia, 87 Lng H,
Ba nh, H Ni. bit thm chi tit v lch
trnh chiu, xin vui lng gh trang web goethe.de
T Bach n Beatles
The Lemonheads n Vit Nam!

i vi nhng ai sinh vo trc nhng nm
1990, nhm Lemonheads v m nhc hn
lon tuyt vi y m hoc i din th loi
alternative-rock ca h l mt trong nhng iu
yu thch nht. Word hn hnh gii thiu Evan
Hudson v bn s phi tht ln rng: "i, tht
tuyt! Evan ca ti ang y, iu ny s tuyt
lm y." H s c mt ti Si Gn b nh c
Katona Twins l mt trong nhng b i guitar

g hay nht th gii, c bit n vi kh nng
iu luyn khi chuyn i th loi m nhc t c
in sang nhng th loi ph bin hn.
H s trnh din ti Nhc Vin Tp. HCM (112
Nguyn Du, Q1) vo ngy 27/9, y s l c hi
duy nht thng thc m nhc ca b i
tng ginh c cc gii thng v trnh din
ti mt s ni ni ting nht trn th gii. iu
quan trng hn l chng trnh biu din ca
h bao gm cc nhc phm ca Handel, J.S.Bach
v Albeniz, cng mt s tc phm ca Tears for
Fears, The Beatles v c Queen, v kt thc m
din bng ca khc Bohemian Rhapsody.
V min ph ti Vin Goethe, 18 ng S 1, C
x Thnh, Q3, Tp.HCM, t 20/9
knh ny vo th ba ngy 2/12.

bit thm thng tin cho cc bui din tip
theo, xin email v dkilroy7@yahoo.co.uk, hoc
gh facebook.com/loudminorityvietnam. c
gii thiu bi Loud Minority, m din s c
t chc ti Q4, 7 Nguyn Tt Thnh, Q4, Tp.
HCM vi s h tr t The Secret Asians v
James and the Van Der Beeks.
Chay B T Thin Ca BBGV

Mi khi BBGV mun t chc mt s kin gii
tr no , h u lm theo mt cch thng
minh nht. Do vy, khng c g ngc nhin
khi nm nay, s kin chay b hng nm ny li
c t chc vo Ch Nht ngy 28/9. Trong
14 ln trc, t chc quyn gp c gn
7 t ng v qu ny c xu hng tng ln t
t. Nm nay, ban t chc hy vng s c 9,000
ngi tham gia, vi nhng phn thng dnh
cho ngi thng chng ua di 4km v c
nhng trng trnh gii tr theo sau.
Cuc ua bt u t 7:00 ti Tn Tro, Ph
M Hng, Q7, Tp.HCM. bit thm thng tin
ng k tham gia (bt u t 8/9) v ti tr,
xin lin h Trn ti officemanager@bbgv.org
hay Claudia ti claudia.lambie@bbgv.org
NGI TRONG CUC
TP HCM
Cu Vt Hai Cuc i
Mc d Vin Tim Thnh ph H Ch Minh cu trn 4.000 tr em trong 22 nm
hot ng, mi tri tim u c h cha tr vi tt c nhit huyt.
Vit bi Margaret Smith. nh bi Francis Xavier
c d kh nh so vi tui ca mnh,
em Thch Xun Thi, 2 tui, cng
nh bao a tr ang ln khc: t
m, lin tc un mnh v trn y
nng lng. Em cng rt thn thin v a tay
ra cho bt c ngi no em gp, em cng
thch chy ln chy xung trong con ng ni
gia nh em . Ti gp Thi mt nm trc, khi
, em cn l mt em b rt khc.
Thi sinh ra mang ba cn bnh v tim: mt
lin quan ti ni tm tht c mt l h gia
hai tm tht; bnh v van hai l tm nh tri;
v tng huyt p ng mch gy ra bi hai bnh
kia. Em hu nh khng c c bp trong nm

u i ca mnh, v rt d mt mi khi dnh
hu nh c ngy nm mt ch.
Tht khng may, nhng ca nh ca Thi
khng him Vit Nam. Theo trung tm Y T
Quc T (CMI) ti thnh ph H Ch Minh,
mt c s khm bnh ngoi tr qun 1, c
100 tr em th c 1 em sinh ra vi bnh tim
bm sinh Vit Nam, v thng th khng
c cha tr trong mt thi gian di.
chnh l l do Vin Tim Thnh Ph xut
hin. C vn t CMI, hc vin cung cp dch
v chm sc tim cho tr em nhng gia nh
kh khn trn khp Vit Nam. c thnh

lp bi T chc Alain Carpentier, kt hp vi
chnh ph Vit Nam, h gip c cho
4.000 tr em trong 22 nm hot ng.
Con ng ti tri tim
Lm th no Vin Tim to ra c nh
hng ln nh vy? Theo ng Maelle Jarlier,
trng phng ti chnh ca CMI, bnh nhn
ca nhng gia nh c kh nng chi tr th tr
tin. Vin thng gip h tm khon tin ny
v n c th n t nhiu ngun khc nhau,
bao gm c bo him y t v tt c tr em
Thi c th cht nu khng c phu thut v tng huyt p. Phi

ca em c th s b tn thng nghim trng, to ra s tc nghn ca
phi hoc tim c th ngng hot ng
Vit Nam u c nhn khon ny cho ti

khi 6 tui t gia nh h hng v thm ch c
phng x ni h sinh sng.
i vi nhng gia nh khng th tr tin,
hc vin s chi tr phn cn li vi s thng
qua ca CMI. Nhng gia nh np n xin
qu ny cn c chng minh t cc c quan nh
nc v tnh trng kinh t kh khn ca gia
nh. Chng ti lun m bo rng [khon
tin] ny h c phu thut, Jarlier ni.
Trong trng hp ca Thi, gia nh em ch
chi tr c mt phn ba chi ph cho ca phu
thut. B ngoi v d ca em bn v s kim
sng, m em nh trong cn phng thu
Qun 4 chm sc hai ch em Thi. M em
k sau khi bit c tnh trng yu t ca em,
b em i li d v b i.
Thi c phu thut vo thng 8 nm 2013.
Em trong vin hai thng v c hai ca phu
thut khc nhau: mt khp li l hng trong
tim v mt cha van hai l. Ca phu thut
ht tng cng gn 70 triu ng.
Theo bc s Nam Phng, bc s trng
khoa tim mch ca CMI, Thi c th cht
nu khng c phu thut v s tng huyt p.
Phi ca em c th s b tn thng nghim
trng, to ra s tc nghn ca phi hoc tim c
th ngng hot ng.
Hin nay, cuc phu thut ln ch

li mt vt so nh v mng chy ngay di
xng n v ti gn ngc ca em. Bn kh c
th nhn thy n di chic o em mc khi em
ang nhy nht ln xung.
Sc mnh lan ta
Trng hp ca Nguyn Bo Long, 1 tui th

khng nghim trng nh ca Thi. Long b
bnh thiu nng tr tu v cng sinh ra vi mt
l hng tim, nm gia nhng bung di,
hay cn bit n l bnh h vch ngn tm
tht. Tnh trng ca em rt c kh nng
cha c m khng cn phi phu thut m
tim. Nu mi vic din ra nh d kin, em s
ch phi li vin trong hai ngy.
Tuy nhin, chi ph thc hin phu thut
vn l mt gnh nng. Phu thut ca Long s
mt khong 74 triu ng, mt con s m b
m em khng th chi tr. Theo h s ca Vin
Tim, m em bn rau ch, cn b em l cng
nhn xy dng.
C gia nh em sng mt ni gn nh
mt ci ga-ra c thu Qun 12; nm xung
quanh nhng bc tng vng chi, pha trc
ngi nh ca em ch c mt vi tm vi v nha
che. H chuyn ti thnh ph H Ch Minh
tm nm trc vi hi vng tm c vic lm.
CMI ng tr khong 60 phn trm gi

ca ca phu thut, v bo him ca Long s tr
phn cn li. Khon tin ny d vy cng ch l
tin phu thut v khng th gip cho chi ph v
thuc men hay tin ging bnh bnh vin.
Theo bc s Th Kim Chi, nu l h
tim ca Long khng c v li, mu s chy
qua v lm cho n ngy cng ln hn. Em b
s gp kh khn pht trin, v s khng th
c c sc khe tt, c Chi ni. Em s ln
chm hn so vi nhng a tr khc.
Rt may l Vin Tim cha bao gi t chi
trng hp no, k c nhng phu thut nh.
Tt c li nhun ca CMI c chuyn cho
Vin Tim, v h cng quyn gp mt s tin
thm t nhng bui gala t thin hng nm.
Ga la t thin nm nay s din ra ti Park Hyatt
Saigon vo ngy 22 thng 11.
Ti tht may mn, Jarlier ni vi mt n
ci. l l do v sao CMI [t chc] gala
t thin, c tin v khng phi t chi
trng hp no.
bit thm thng tin v CMI, Vin Tim v
gala t thin hng nm ca h, hy xem ti cmivietnam.com. Tt c li nhun t c s y t CMI
cnh Nh Th Ln s c chuyn vo Vin Tim
thc hin nhng ca phu thut cho nhng
ngi c hon cnh kh khn.
TIN NGN
H NI
Attimi:
Ngh Thut
Nm Trong Nhng Vt
Bnh Thng
Barbara Pellizzari ln ny thay nhng hnh

nh v thnh ph bng nhng khonh khc
hin ti trong trin lm mi ca mnh
arbara Pellizzari nhn thy nhng th

thng b b qua trong cuc sng hng
ngy. Thay v nhn thy mt gia nh
nhi cht nch ngi trn mt chic xe
my, c thy mt ci nm nh vo vai, bn tay
nhng a tr chm vo bng ng h, bt chc
b ca chng.
Nhng hnh nh l ngun ti liu cho bui
trnh din sp ti ca c vi tn gi Attimi, c
ngha l nhng khonh khc trong ting . T
chc ti i S Qun ti H Ni, bui trin lm
m ca t ngy 18 thng 9 ti Casa Italia, trung
tm vn ha m nm ngoi. Nhng tc phm
ny l mt phn trong hnh trnh tm hiu v Vit
Nam ca c, trc y c bt u vi nhng tc
phm v cc ta nh ln xn v nhng ch bm
c vn chuyn trn sng, trong trin lm Nhng
chuyn ph (Cargo) nm ngoi ti deciBel, thnh
ph H Ch Minh.
Trc khi chuyn ti sng ti Vit Nam hai
nm trc, c c 12 nm ging dy v sng
tc ngh thut Thng Hi v Bc Kinh. Trc
, c l ngi gn gi ngh thut thnh ph
Florence, ; Chicago, Hoa K, v Karachi
Pakistan. V by gi c ang Vit Nam v trm
tr trc mi gc ph m c nhn thy.
Nhng K Quan Vi V Ngoi Gn Gi
Tm thy k quan nhng ci tng chng nh

rt bnh thng ca Vit Nam chnh l tng
ca nhng tc phm ca c. Ti quyt nh mang
ti tt c nhng g lm cho ti kinh ngc ni
y, c ni. V d Chu u, hoa lan c coi
l rt gi tr v tinh t. y bn c hoa lan mi

ni. Bn c hoa lan nhng ban cng khim tn
nht v c trong nhng ngi nh ho nhong
nht.
im lm c y n tng nht l con ngi ni
y, qua nhng nhp iu ca h, qua cm gic kt
ni ca h vi mnh t ny v vi nhau.
Barbara ni: Mi ngi c mt nhp iu khc
nhau, h c h quy chiu thi gian khc nhau
h lm theo bn cht t nhin. Khi h mun ng,
h ng, khi h mun ngh, h ngh. H c mi
lin h cht ch vi gia nh. V ti mun nm bt
c tt c nhng khonh khc .
Tuy s dng nhng cnh nh l ti liu sng
nhng c tch ri n ra khi hon cnh ni n
din ra v c tp trung vo phn hn ca n. B
i nhng b qun o khoc trn ngi ca nhng
nhn vt ca mnh, c qun cho h trong nhng
mu v ca nhng vt ph thng nh nhng
cc c ph, nhng t ph, nhng bnh xe ni ca
Pht, nhng chic gh nha, biu tng @, hoa,
thuc l v c nhng chai bia 333 nhng th m

mi ngi tip xc trong cuc sng hng ngy.
y l nhng th Barbara nhn thy c khc
ha khp ni trong nn vn ha y. Ti kt
hp truyn thng vi khonh khc ng i,
c ni. Ngi Vit Nam v y l im rt hay
ca h h rt mnh m trong vic xc nh u
l tm hn ca h, lch s ca h v u l truyn
thng ca h[h c th] ha nhp vo hin i
trong khi vn gi c nhng gi tr c.
Ti nhc ti Kehinde Wiley, mt ha s ti New
York, ngi t nhng ngi M gc Phi vo
trong nhng m phng ca cc tc phm hi ha
ni ting, mang nhng biu hin trn gng mt
h v nhng trang phc hng ngy ra khi khung
cnh quen thuc ca h. Vi cch lm , ng
thch thc nhng phng on ca chng ta, buc
ta phi c ci nhn khc v nhng con ngi ny.
N c v kh ging vi nhng g Barbara ang
thc hin y.
Hy nhn vo tm hnh ny nh c ch vo
mt bc nh ca mt ngi n ng ci trn. Ti
cha lm ngi n ng ny bi v anh ta khng
mang qun o trn ngi nh ti mun c
trong d n ca mnh. Nhng n trng nh mt
t th thuc trng phi Kiu cch (Mannerism)
t thi Phc Hng. Nu bn nhn vo nhng bc
tranh truyn thng, n thc s l t thi gian .
V th bn thy , Vit Nam cng c
trng phi Kiu cch. V n rt nn th.
Ed Weinberg
Attimi c trng by vo ngy 18 thng 9 ti Casa
Italia, 18 L Phng Hiu, Hon Kim, H Ni.
The final say

THE FINAL SAY
HANOI
Dognapped!
Whether its talked about in international newspapers or in hushed tones
down the street, the illegal dog trade is a problem. With Katie Jacobs joining the
ranks of Hanoi dog owners, she finds her struggling with the same questions
id you know dogs are stolen

and held for ransom?
a friend casually asks as
she pats my five-month
old golden retriever. Not knowing how
to respond, I nod sadly in agreement as
Marmalade licks my feet. Over the past
three months of dog ownership I have
become all too aware of the fear and
rumours surrounding dognapping across
Vietnam.
You have to watch out, the nappers
drive by on scooters and lasso the dogs
right off the street, one friend had warned.
I heard of a person getting their fingers
broken when their dog was snatched from
their hands, said another. My neighbours
dog wandered down to the end of the street
and never returned, I also heard. Then
came the worst one of all: Did you hear
about the teenage boys who were murdered
for trying to save stolen dogs?
The Stories
When I first announced I had adopted a
puppy, my family in Australia made all the
usual crass jokes about her being stolen
for dog meat. I rolled my eyes, how clich.
But I soon came to realise that, although
Marmalade is not the type of dog to be
stolen for meat, their jokes had more
substance that I imagined.
The majority of dognapping still
occurs for sale to dog restaurants, says
Marilyn Drinkwater, vice-president of
Friends of Happy Pet Clinic, an animalawareness organisation in Hanoi. But as
the popularity of pedigree breeds grows,
the frequency of stealing dogs for ransom is
becoming increasingly common. They are
usually people who are desperate for money
and these expensive dogs are easy cash.
There is no data on dognapping
frequency in Hanoi, but ask any dog owner,
particularly one living in the Tay Ho area,
and they will have a plethora of stories
that have either happened to them or
someone they know. None of these are more
notorious than the case of Hisui Kobayashi
and her Siberian Husky Kuma.
Kuma went missing while on a walk
one evening in April. Hisui lost sight of
her for a few minutes and when she called
out to Kuma, the dog didnt return. After
searching frantically well into the night,
Hisui and her friends distributed posters all

around town.
Desperate to get her dog back, Hisui
offered a VND15 million reward to anyone
who could return Kuma. Within a few
days all the posters had been torn down. We
must have put up hundreds but I only ever
saw a few of them, says Hisui. With such a
large sum of money involved, word about
the missing dog spread quickly and the
dognappers werent keen on the attention
they were attracting.
There was now a large group of people
looking for Kuma. When Hisui asked the
local vet if they had any leads, she was
informed that over 20 people had already
been inquiring about the dog. Kuma had
become a doggy gold mine and the hunt
was on.
Knowing quite a few people who had
been victims of dognapping, Hisui turned
to her friends for advice. They informed
me there was a procedure, says Hisui.
They said I would receive a phone call
within a week demanding money in return
for my dog. They told me the dognappers
would try to play on my emotions and
that I should be careful not to fall for their
games. After days of searching, the phone
call came and the negotiations began.
It was at this point in Hisuis story
that I started to realise the severity of
the dognapping business it was like
listening to the plot of the next Hollywood
blockbuster in which Liam Neeson swoops
in to rescue all the Taken dogs and restore
law and order to the Tay Ho dog world.
When I said this to Hisui she smiled.
I know, it was a crazy time, Hisui says.
I knew the people who had Kuma were
watching me. I returned home one evening
to find one of them waiting for me with
pictures of Kuma on his phone. He said he
could get her back for me.
So against her better judgement, Hisui
jumped in the car and followed the man
into the night. 15 minutes later Kuma was
in the car and Hisui was handing over the
VND15 million she had negotiated. But all
she cared about was that Kuma was safe.
The Fear
I try not to let anyone I dont trust know
about my dogs, says a Tay Ho resident
who prefers to remain anonymous for fear
of attracting attention to his expensive pups.

The breed is so rare that it is yet to be bred
in Vietnam, and he is convinced that the
dogs will be stolen if the wrong people hear
about them.
The breed needs very little exercise so
they are happy on the deck on the top floor
of my house. But Im worried because my
neighbours are now building a house that is
taller than mine. I wont be able to control
who sees them.
He also added that he knows of
housekeepers stealing or borrowing dogs
to breed while the owner is away. Whether
stolen for meat, breeding or ransom, these
threats are feeding fear and anxiety in dog
owners across the country.
Earlier this year, three teenage boys were
murdered in Ho Chi Minh City when they
attacked a group of dog thieves. Stolen
dogs fetch approximately VND200,000 in
restaurants and abattoirs.
Those boys died for less than US$10,
says Drinkwater. In the end these people
are stealing property that does not belong
to them. Whether its a phone or a dog,
they are thieves and they need to be held
accountable.
According to a June article by Thanh
Nien, dog owners across the country feel
they are powerless against canine thieves,
many of whom become violent when
confronted. In 2012 residents of a village
in the north-central province of Quang Tri
murdered accused dog thieves that had
escaped legal punishment. When the police
arrested the suspected murderers, the entire
village signed a mass confession.
The Solution
On a recent trip to the park with
Marmalade, I watched as she played with
the other purebred puppies Huskies,
Labradors, Australian sheep-dogs. Feeling
a little more worried about her I looked
around at the other dog owners and realised
that they too were watching their dogs
closely.
I dont really know what the solution
is, says Hisui, but I recommend that dog
owners keep a very close eye on their pets.
Drinkwater agrees. You can think you have
the situation under control but the dognappers are so fast that you turn your back
for one second and the dog can be gone.
When Hisui asked the local vet if

they had any leads, she was
informed that over 20 people had
already been inquiring about the
dog. Kuma had become a doggy
gold mine and the hunt was on
Tracking the Yeti

When we addressed the legend of Vietnams Bigfoot in our July issue,
people called us crazy. Here, iconic war journalist Wilfred Burchett
and close friend of Ho Chi Minh writes on another sighting
Bigfoot
When we ran our original article on the

yeti back in July, a number of negative
comments followed. Here is what you
said:
Bigfoot in Vietnam? Come on. Are you that

stretched for good content?
Its like the story of Merlin, King Arthur
and the Knights of the Round Table. Both
France and England have the same
myth the sword coming out of the lake.
So does Vietnam, with the sword rising
out of the lake on the back of a turtle. But
bigfoot? Really.
hen talking about intrepid

journalists, Wilfred Burchett
(1911 1983) should be one of
the first names to come to mind.
His moment came on Sep. 5, 1945, when
Londons Daily Express printed his Morse
code dispatch on the horrors of Hiroshima
the first public report detailing the postatomic effects on the city.
Although his report was one of the
scoops of the century, there was much more
to Burchetts intrepidness. Starting in 1936,
when he left his native Australia to help
Jewish refugees escape Hitlers Germany,
he began a career of championing the
underdog. Despite turning 60 during the
American War he still travelled hundreds
of kilometres to cover it, often sheltering in
tunnels with NVA and Viet Cong soldiers
against attacks by US forces.
And in one of his most intrepid
reportages, he wrote on Vietnamese legends
of the Yeti in a 1965 volume entitled
La Seconde Resistance. What follows are
excerpts from Chapter 10, entitled Du Yeti
aux Elephants.
The Passport
During the war era, the journalist who
interviewed Ho Chi Minh the most was
Wilfred Burchett. Yet Burchett's connection
with Vietnam went further than his inthe-field reportage and his personal
relationship with Uncle Ho.
In 1955 his passport mysteriously
disappeared over lunch on a trip from
China to Hanoi. Already at odds with The
West due to his coverage of The Cold
War from 'the other side', the Australian
government refused to issue him new
papers.
North Vietnam came to the rescue.
Together with his family for a number of
years he travelled on papers issued by
the Socialist Republic of Vietnam.
********************
I felt particularly guilty, because I had
insisted, against the advice of those responsible
for my security, that we deviate from the
established itinerary. There was an amazing
story I wanted to check and we were heading
for the place where we could find the only
people who could shed light on it, if we were
able to meet them. My request was eventually
met. And here we were! I had put a whole
group of guerrillas, each of whom was
prepared to give their life to save mine, in an
impossible situation.
In normal circumstances, we would have
never had engaged an enemy patrol, because
every territory we had to cross was cleared
thanks to a very effective reconnaissance
network. It was no doubt that patrol that had
alerted the helicopters. And they were now on
the edge of the jungle; hovering just above the
treetops. Thanh handed me his carbine. We
had trained together to defend ourselves
against tigers, we were told and he knew I
was a better shot than him.
After the customary greetings, I asked if
there were MNong from Dak Mil District, Dak

Lak Province among the local guerrillas. There
were indeed two stocky fellows with dark,
almost chocolate skins and large ears whom
their comrades pushed forward...
A few weeks earlier, in a very different
region, Tran Dinh Minh told me the story I am
going to now recount. He was very surprised
(after all this had nothing to do with the
war) by my keen interest in his story and the
questions I bombarded him with to obtain
additional information.
In 1949, he told me, my mission was to
explore the border zones of Dak Lak. I had
to produce a map and explore all possible
itineraries even if they had to yet be
cleared that could be used as escape or
communications routes in an emergency.
Among other districts, I worked in Dak Mil,
with its apparently impenetrable mountain
chains, which forbid access to Cambodia. But
how inaccessible were they? I had to find out.
I organised a small expedition with a few
MNong and we ventured into the mountains.
Their steep flanks are covered in dense jungle.
My MNong companions explained to me

that huge boulders made the clearing of ray
[brush] impossible. As we went deeper into
the mountains, the landscape became wilder
and more fantastic. Soon, we couldnt cover
more than a kilometre a day one kilometre
on the map, that is. Often, it took a whole day
to climb a mountain only to discover another
steep mountain range.
Wild animals were in abundance: tigers,
panthers, wolves, not to mention all kinds of
deer, in brief, all the fauna of Vietnam, except
for elephants. There were also strange birds I
had never seen before, the size of a peacock,
but different. They would take off from
between rocks, their long tails trailing behind
them. We killed one and ate it. It was good.
There were no fruits, no streams. There were
only a few palm trees of an unknown species
and, close to the summit of the highest range,
we discovered holes in the rocks, round
like small plates, filled with fresh water and
teeming with eels as thick as a thigh. We
harpooned a few with bamboo spears: they
were delicious. We didnt lack in supplies:
they were as easy to catch as picking a bunch
of bananas.
We travelled along the mountain range
and, after some time, when we entered the
wildest and most arid part, I was stunned to
spot human footprints on the sand. We hadnt
seen any trace of humans for weeks. And those
prints were numerous. It was amazing. We
followed the freshest tracks for several days
and, one morning, we heard a kind of chirping,
followed by the sounds of someone fleeing
in the direction of a cluster of palm trees. We
came too late: all we could see were two sets
of footprints leading to the palm grove. We
searched the place but didnt find anything.
Nevertheless, my MNong companions, after
carefully studying the footprints, made an
interesting discovery the most recent prints
were made by someone walking backwards:
indeed, the heel left a deeper mark in the sand.
So we followed the first set of prints in
reverse. It led us to a cave occupied by a very
frightened male creature, entirely naked save
for a kind of tiny cache-sex [a small garment
that covers the genitals] made of bark; his
entire body was covered by thick dark hair
and his hair covered his shoulders. Crouching
in a corner of the cave, the creature was visibly
petrified despite our best efforts to show that
we had no hostile intentions. The MNong
addressed him in their language. I too tried
every dialect I knew but in vain: we could get
nothing out of him, except the kind of sounds
wed heard earlier, the strange chirping.
The MNong were not as surprised as I
was: they told me that their brothers from
Dak Mil District knew of the existence of
these strange mountain creatures; they would
sometimes come across their footprints while
tracking a tiger or some other wounded
game, or even spot some of the hairy
creatures walking hand in hand in the jungle.
They even saw them chop down palm trees
with their bare hands...
At this stage, I interrupted him to say that
perhaps the creatures were using stones.
Minh agreed with me but added that the
MNong insist that they can cut down trees

with the side of their hands and are therefore
stronger than humans.
We discovered new tracks coming from
another cave, but as the sun was setting, we
just marked the place, planning to return
the next day. That particular cave contained
only ashes and bones. We decided to take our
prisoner to our district base hoping someone
would be able to understand his language:
in vain. We had great difficulty making him
eat anything. He watched us eat our rice, but
refused to touch it.
The MNong told us that theyd heard that
the creatures ate the fronds of palm trees
the particular species of palm trees we came
across when we surprised them. We gathered a
few leaves which the creature devoured raw.
We offered it some roasted monkey. It took it,
looked at it, sniffed it, but refused to taste it.
The MNong then suggested we just warm up
the meat without cooking it.
It worked, but the creature was still very
afraid of us: it trembled at the slightest noise.
We had to tie him up when we went to sleep
and kept him tied on the way back to base. We
reached our base without incident but no-one
was able to translate our prisoners chirping.
As there were no palm trees like the ones in
its native mountains, we decided to take him
back. But, to our great chagrin, he died and we
buried him on the spot...
I wasnt able to gather any more
information. However, in the Dak Mil District
everybody knew that such creatures existed,
that they are the most fearful and timid of
creatures, and that they live in caves that they
abandon as soon as a stranger approaches.
According to the two MNong, the journey
from the district centre to the zone where they
live would take from full moon to full moon.
When peace returns to South Vietnam, an
expedition will no doubt go there to establish
the objective facts. What an irony it would be
to discover that the abominable snowman

really exists... but in the tropics!
Later, I discussed what Id heard with an
ethnic minorities expert from Saigon. Hed
never heard of the Dak Mil creatures. He
said, however, that if they really existed and
that no-one knew about it, there was nothing
surprising about that.
Its in MNong country, and the MNong
were in a permanent state of war with the
French, who were never able to penetrate their
territory. The MNong keep strangers away
from their lands. It is quite possible that along
the valleys and rivers where quasi Stone Age
societies still exist, there also exist people who
are even lower on the evolution scale.
Not so long ago, in many places in the
Tay-Nguyen, people still lived in the Stone
Age. Thus, during the anti-French Resistance,
cadres whod made first contact with the
Sedang people discovered that they were
using stone axes to cut down trees, stone
knives and scrapers to make bamboo spears
and carve game. The tradition of letting meat
rot before eating it may be a leftover from a
time predating the discovery of fire. And if its
true that these creatures live naked, they are
only one step behind some tribes where men
and women only wear the simplest of cachesexes. Only a generation ago, the Sedang still
lived in the stage of primitive communism.
And if human groups still exist at this level
of civilisation in open regions, why wouldnt
others still live in the prehistoric age in a
region as remote and inaccessible as Dak
Mil?
********************
Special Thanks
A big thanks to George Burchett for
allowing Word to republish both the writting
and photos of his father, Wilfred Burchett
The final say
THE FINAL SAY
NATIONAL
Taking the Plunge

Swimming education is a hot-button issue in Vietnam. With thousands of
drowning deaths occurring each year, its something that should be seen as a
crucial need. Unfortunately it isnt. Vu Ha Kim Vy jumps into the deep end, finding answers to this paradox along the way
espite the many benefits swimming

gives including survival skills
I have always hated it. Thanks
to hydrophobia, deep water always
sent shivers down my spine whenever I
was in it. Like other people who put off
doing something, Ive had motivations to
learn to swim. But nothing ever pushed me
into taking that vital first step until earlier
this year.
Thats when a deal was struck with a
friend, one that would help us both be
healthier. I will quit smoking, and you
will learn how to swim! he said. His
voice was still echoing in my head on that
fateful first day, delayed from April for the
usual reasons (being busy, not having a
swimsuit). It wasnt until June that I started
class, when every school in Vietnam is out
for summer. It was the wrong choice.
Swim Class is for Kids?

Like a kid headed to their first day at
school, excited I prepared everything the
night before. The alarm woke me up at
7.30am, and I rushed to blend into the
hustle of people going to the pool. The class
started at 8am.
Kim Vy? the coach called. Next time,
please get your daughter here earlier!
He looked at the membership card, on
which neither age nor photo is printed.
Seeing my eyebrows raised, he gave me
a smile as an apology. With a question
nagging at me, I stepped toward the pool
in my swimsuit, swim cap, earplugs and
goggles.
My excitement quickly disappeared when
I noticed that all of my classmates were
kids under the age of 11. There werent only
two or three of them, but about 20. More
than 40 eyes including some from the
coaches and the parents started staring at
me, and I stared at the space in front of me.
The question was answered. I was hating
swimming more than ever.
The only difference between my

swimming lesson and a circus show is that
I was the only clown, and I wasnt getting
paid. My show reached its climax when
bright orange inflatable armbands and a
back float were offered to me. I heard the
parents to the side giggling. Three of them
were seated on benches waiting for their
kids. They were continuously laughing.
Can you guys swim? I asked them.
No! they responded, and continued to
laugh.
Hypocrites.
By Numbers
Vietnam has a coastline of 3,260km, double
the north-to-south distance of the country.
390 rivers flow in between. According to the
Department of Labour, Invalids and Social
Affairs, there are more than 3,600 cases of
drowning every year in Vietnam the
highest rate in the region. Some estimates
suggest the real figures could be twice
or even triple the size. According to the
Alliance for Safe Children, 13,000 children
die each year from drowning thats 35
children per day.
Even with such geography and statistics,
swimming isnt considered a vital part of
the curriculum in Vietnam. In school, its
offered as an optional subject in high school
physical education.
And worst of all, people arent
concerned. Like the parents who watched
me flail, most Vietnamese dont take
swimming seriously.
Bend your knees, extend your legs and
close them together! the coach yelled.
He was teaching the breaststroke, and it
seemed easier to practise it on the ground
than in the water.
While my legs were still shaking, I
figured out why these adults didnt want
to take a swimming course. They gave me
many reasons, from being busy with life to
hydrophobia, from an aversion to getting
tanned to some kind of illness that doesnt

allow people to swim. But I guess the truth
is they dont want to experience what I had
to go through during my first swimming
lesson.
Changing Course
I am not addicted to swimming, but I have
a daily routine now. And my coach does,
too three sessions in the morning and
two sessions after 5pm every day, with
more than 20 students attending each one.
For me, though, its just mornings. People
might not attach importance to their lives,
but the risk of their children drowning
matters to them.
Thanks to the government and local
swimming advocacy organisations, this
awareness is growing wings. With the
support of the World Medical Association,
the Department of Labour, Invalids and
Social Affairs has developed a project
that started in 2012 and extends to 2015,
aiming to reduce the annual drowning
rate by 25 percent compared with 2010.
There will be free swimming lessons
sponsored by government and local
organisations, currently in pilot runs in
Can Tho, Danang, Hai Phong, Hanoi and
Ho Chi Minh City.
There are also NGOs such as Water
Safety Vietnam who are helping children
learn to swim. Since 2012 they have taught
over 1,000 kids to swim as well as over
300 adults. They have also recruited and
trained local swimming coaches.
As Donald Miller, a best-selling
American author, once wrote, Fear is a
manipulative emotion that can trick us into
living a boring life.
Swimming is a new Barbie that I, a little
girl, found in an intimidating-looking
toy box. The fear hasnt disappeared, but
instead its been transformed into a respect
for the water and now that I can do it, I
dont hate swimming anymore.
My show reached its climax when bright orange inflatable armbands

and a back float were offered to me. I heard the parents to the side
giggling. Three of them were seated on benches waiting for their kids.
They were continuously laughing.
The final say
THE FINAL SAY
NATIONAL
Always Keep
Ice in Your
Beer
...and other practical advice

for attending weddings
in Vietnam. Tis the
wedding season after all.
Words by Evan Hudson.
Photos by Nick Ross
eres a situation that may or may

not sound familiar: your friend or
coworker has pressured you into
attending a wedding theirs,
or their uncles or maybe the man who
neutered their cat. The venue is located
somewhere in the vast urban sprawl
surrounding your city on a street Google
Maps has never heard of, and as you arrive
you feel a sinking feeling in your stomach.
You have no idea what to do.
Thats okay! A Vietnamese wedding can
be a tricky proposition. If you play your
cards right, it can be a beautiful celebration
of love and family. If you act the part of
Bumbling Foreign Fool, it can be three hours
of awkward, boring purgatory. I want to
help you, dear reader, to avoid this fate, so
I have composed a short list of suggestions
to help keep you from making a fool out
of yourself at any weddings you may have
to attend in the future. If you keep these
rules in mind, hopefully you wont end up
sleeping in the bushes or sitting at the kids
table, wishing you were at home watching
HBO. Walk with me.
Dont Flake Out

Upon receiving the wedding invitation and
replying in the affirmative, it is important
to recognise that you are definitely going
to attend and plan accordingly. I made this
mistake some time ago. A female coworker
invited me to her wedding, which was
to take place at some ungodly hour on a
Saturday morning. When the time came I
elected to stay in bed instead of following
through on my promise.
For the next eight months she never said
a word to me again even though I sat two
cubicles away from her for more than 20
A female coworker invited

me to her wedding, which
was to take place at some
ungodly hour on a Saturday
morning. When the time
came I elected to stay in
bed instead of following
through on my promise. For
the next eight months, she
never said a word to me
though I sat two cubicles
away from her
hours a week. If you are invited and arent

sure if youll be able to make it, say so
because once you say youre going, youre
locked in.
Starve Yourself a Little

It looks weird if youre not eating anything.
People will think youre not having a good
time, so its a good idea to skip breakfast the
day of. Eating seconds is good form. You
will probably eat thirds because the food at
weddings is always on point.
Bring Money
There will be a box near the entrance for
storing the envelopes of money brought by
guests. Even if youve never met the bride
or groom, the envelope with your name
on it needs to have at least VND500,000

inside if its a city wedding (at country
weddings, you can get away with stuffing
in VND200,000, though you run the risk of
being thought of as the cheap foreigner). It
goes up from there if youre going to a
wedding in a five-star hotel, a minimum of
VND1 million is safe. Try the same if youre
going to the wedding of a close friend, a
coworker or a family member.
If you feel like showing off, put your
money in one of the complimentary
envelopes assembled by the entrance. The
conspicuous delivery of your gift will likely
be rewarded with a curt nod of approval
from at least one of the salty old aunts
standing around.
Water It Down
Heres your mantra: 75 percent ice, 25
percent beer, and only drink the rice wine if
you cant get out of it without looking like
a wuss. Your beer should be the colour of a
well-hydrated marathon runners urine. If
you notice your chunk of ice dissolving, grab
the tongs and get another one in your glass
swiftly. If you ignore this advice you will
probably be in sorry condition by hour three.
Be Adventurous
Try all the food provided. At countryside
weddings, especially, you might be asked
to try some unfamiliar things congealed
ducks blood, frog, pig fat, guts. It doesnt
really matter, because you should eat
whatevers put in front of you. To decline

proffered food is an awkward refusal of
hospitality and its not like youre going
to look back from your deathbed and wish
you had experienced fewer things.
When you go back to wherever youre
from, and the girl you had a crush on in high
school asks you what totally crazy foods you
tried in Vietnam, you can be like, I ate a
duck butt and it was actually good! It will
be impressive to her because she has three
kids and limited time to go to one of your
hometowns three ethnic restaurants.
Bring a Friend
Especially if its a huge blowout wedding
(you can tell by the invitation if it has
gold leaf on it, it qualifies). Its probably
even cool to bring a friend or two its not
like theres not going to be enough food or
drink. You might want to notify the hosts in
advance, though.
Not that going by yourself is a bad idea
if you fly solo, you might actually end up
having a better time because wedding guests
are super friendly, but you run the risk of
flying too close to the sun with the rice wine.
Remember, if its a small countryside-type
wedding, youll probably be the only foreigner
in the room, so literally everybody and their
uncle will want to meet you and offer you a
drink. This is where the danger comes in.
Nam Muoi-Nam Muoi

Say youll drink 50 percent, but actually
drink 25 percent. If youre not acquainted

with the custom of tram phan tram, you soon
will be. This is Vietnamese for 100 percent
and when you hear it and vocalise your
agreement, it means you have to finish your
beer even if youre already having trouble
keeping your head off the table.
A good idea is to counter the offer of
tram phan tram! with nam muoi-nam muoi,
offering to drink 50 percent of the beer
instead of the whole thing. Then only drink
25 percent, and hope the drunk uncles
dont call you out on your cowardice.
Choose Your Table Wisely

Sit with people who will be fun to hang
out with for a few hours. Its bad form to
dip out before everybody else, and if you
are sitting at the kids table or a table full
of very elderly women three hours can feel
like a very long time. Conversely, if you
sit down at a table of college-aged dudes,
youll be forced to drink at least a dozen
beers. Sitting at a table with a nice-looking
family is a happy medium.
Most importantly, dont sit at the table
of grizzled-looking middle-aged men. In
addition to the communal shots (mot-haiba-vo! rinse, repeat for five hours), you
will be asked to drink shots with each and
every man sitting at the table.
One time, at a wedding in a small town
near Dalat, I tried to put a tally on my hand
for every shot I took. I awoke some hours
later in a coffee field behind the outhouse,
with about a dozen marks on my hand
and a large infinity symbol drawn in what

appeared to be lipstick.
Socialise
If you only sit at your table and talk with
your friends, people will think youre a snob.
Even if you dont speak Vietnamese, hang
out with the grannies a little bit and let the
host show you off to their relatives. Practise
English with the kids a little bit. Youll
come off as a friendly and polite cultural
ambassador, and meet some cool people
in the bargain. Remember to thoroughly
ice your beer before you begin to make the
rounds.
Plan Your Exit

Ask the location of the bathroom from a
reliable source. One time I got tricked into
walking into the bridal partys dressing
room in front of 500 people. Needless to say,
I got some cold stares. Dont make the same
mistake.
Take a Taxi Home

Drunk driving is somewhere between
a necessary evil and a national sport in
Vietnam, but the truth is that you will
probably be wasted and theres no need to
get killed on the way back from the party.
Of course, you might be in the countryside,
without easy access to a taxi, in which case
you could always try to hitch a ride back to
your hotel with one of the more sober guests.
In any case, it will make your life easier if
you arrange transportation beforehand.
The last call

One of the faces behind Saigon late-night bar Last Call, California native
Lola Guimond has gone from fashion designer, stylist and actress to well-known bar
manager and cocktail aficionado. Photo by Kyle Phanroy
Going to school with Snoop and
Cameron Diaz at Long Beach Poly
High was a trip. It was the late 1980s and

violence between the Bloods and Crips was
no joke. My fondest memories of both of
them are before and after high school. In
junior high, Cameron had a platinum mullet,
wore rock jerseys and skinny jeans. She was
the ultimate heavy metal chick. A few years
after graduation, I ended up working with
Snoop on the video, Murder Was The Case.
My buddy Shawn was head stylist and hired
me on this crazy video shoot. When she
found out we went to high school together, I
became Snoops personal stylist.
As an accomplished swimmer Im
thrilled that swimming programmes are

now being taken seriously here in Vietnam.
Nobody should fear water.
California is the best place on earth, es-
pecially southern California. Next to Saigon,

of course.
My background in fashion design

opened a lot of opportunities for me, especially travel. I still enjoy design as a creative
outlet. Its fun. When I first arrived here in
October 2008, nine days before Halloween,
I whipped up Wonder Woman costumes for
all my female staff at Q Bar.
My first trip to Vietnam in 1997

was intense because I spent my first two
months on a strict diet and was jumping
rope an hour per day in the hotel gym to prepare for my role as the daughter of Harvey
Keitel in the movie, Three Seasons.
Spending time on the same film set

as Harvey Keitel was beyond words.
Hes a strong and compassionate man. He
donated all of his earnings to a childrens
foundation.
The demise of Q Bar in Saigon

has spawned many an urban legend! Anyone
whos heard about the iconic Q Bar closing
at the height of its popularity should know

that yes, it was all that!
Bobby Chinn had a great concept and

the right team to be successful I was one
of his managers. Unfortunately, when your
rent is as high as it is in Beverly Hills, there
is zero room for error. It should never have
been in the Kumho Link. What an atrocity.
We got the idea for Last Call

because we wanted a fun and safe place
to party late night after everything closed,
hence the name.
Making cocktails is a blast!

My bartenders are little chemists and I so appreciate all of
their creativity. I just let them
go and see what they come
back with.
The best thing about
Last Call is our artisan
cocktails and music selection.

We take both very seriously.
My sleeping habits
are great for preventing melanoma! When I made my
trip home to California last
July, my father was shocked
to see how pale I was. It was
like he saw a ghost. Its the
occupational hazard
of running a late night venue. You become

a card toting member of the vampire club. I
am a creature of the night.
Vietnam is a place where the sheltering

sky almost demands you live by your heart.
If I could change anything in Vietnam, I would like to see more aware-
ness with young adults and safe sex; more

concern with air pollution; affordable and
safe, real helmets since there is a helmet law
in effect here.

Word Vietnam September 2014 FA

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contents

010 / The Facebook Generation

054 / Savage Independence

Its good to talk

011 / The Big Five

056 / Two Lives Saved

016 / The End of an Era

The decline of the Saigon Tax Centre

050 / This is the Month

August was hungry ghost month

Vietnamese crews breakdance their way

The vital work of CMI and The Heart

092 / B-Boy World Cup

How arts caf Manzi is changing

Events to look out for this month

058 / Upwardly Mobile

Urban regeneration in Phu Nhuan

062 / 101 Things to Love About

The bottles half full

078 / Ha Giang Special

The most beautiful province in

096 / Video Blogging in Vietnam

The rise of a new medium

EAT & DRINK

Draft beer is suddenly getting popular.

104 / Mystery Diner Hanoi

Hanoi gets itself a tasty burrito

105 / Street Snacker Hanoi

On the menu: Mien Tron

A modernist backdrop for a futurist look

Renaissance is an International British School

Darfur, desert and Sharia law. Not to be

116 / Give Vientiane a Chance

Tokyos Haneda airport does it differently

126 / Travel Promos

4 | Word September 2014 | wordvietnam.com

145 / HCMC City Guide

Who needs Vang Vieng anyway?

120 / Airport Stories

158 / Top Eats

144 / Book Buff

150 / Body and Temple

Dont get caught napping

182 / Tracking the Yeti

Bigfoot and rebel journalist Wilfred Burchett

186 / Taking the Plunge

Learning to swim the hard way

188 / Always Keep Ice in Your Beer

Just in time for the wedding season

192 / The Last Call

Snoop, Harvey Keitel and cocktails. Lola from

This month we asked our team what they love most

DUONG THI THANH XUAN

Word - Duong Huynh

CHUYN DU LCH & M THC

6 | Word September 2014 | wordvietnam.com

Chu trch nhim xut bn:

Thc hin lin kt xut bn:

In n 15.000 cun, kh 20.5 x 27cm

to London, the city I

things done here. Yes,

THIS MONTH'S COVER

HAVE YOUR SAY

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