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Page 1

REBECCA EMMA LENNOX

N0624418

e
h
t
h
g
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o
r
s
h
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o
T
i
t
a
r
e
n
e
g

Page 2

What
makes us
dress the
way we
do?
Page 3

Clothes. There is so much range, whether in colour,

Leach: Taken out of context, items of

sizing or shape, we all have a choice in what we wear.

clothing have no meaning; they can be

We can choose to be our own person, to express our

stacked away in a drawer like the indi-

individuality and to stick out like a sore thumb against

vidual letters with a typographer uses to

others. Or even to be part of something else, like a sub-

make up his typeface but, when put to-

culture, a group of youths crying out to feel at home

gether in sets form a uniform; they form

amongst strangers.

distinctive markers of specified social

roles in specified social contexts. Male

I find myself engrossed with how diverse individuals

and female, infant, child and adult, mas-

can be, how an outfit can change someones entire

ter and servant, bride and widow, soldier,

persona. You grow up forced to conform to society, to

policeman, High Court judge, are all imme-

wear a uniform day in day out, to blend in. Only, you

diately recognisable by the clothing they

go home and arguably rebel? You rip off your tie, your
itchy discounted shirt. Its now on the floor drowning in

I would like us to think about something. Write it down;

your distaste. You walk to your wardrobe knowing ex-

scribble a note in your head. Why do we act differently

actly who you wish to be. Are you a rebel? You pick up

depending on what we wear and who we may wear

your ripped jeans, something your mother would refuse

it with? Would we be seen lighting a cigarette in our

to look at you in. I guess so. Its all a question of who

Sainsburys uniform? Probably not, theyd advise us to

you want to be, all about identity.

smoke out of sight. Do we dress differently depending

on who we accompany with? Or are we all simply a

Page 4

Page 5

bunch of fish swimming against the tide. In my visual

product, I examine the roll clothing has in society today
and why we chose to dress the way we do.

WORD COUNT : 271

Page 6

Page 7

Contents

Page 8

Rejection & Rebellion

Page 11

Trouble with your identity?

Page 17

A Second Skin

Page 24

The Power, the wealth

& the Idol

Bibliography

Page 36

List of Illustrations

Page 40

List of Citations

Page 41

Page 30

Page 9

REJECTION &
REBELLION

Page 10

Page 11

Fig. 1. Nowigan rock band, a-ha. Double denim fashion, (2010) by Newsinenglish.no: March 2010

fashion starts at the rejection of the old and often when something has been rejected(Unknown, 2016 : Dcc lecture)
Page 12

Fig. 2. Double Denim fashion on front cover of famous fashion magazine

(August 2012) in Vogue magazine: front cover

If an adolescent is anything, hes paranoid. He takes a great comfort from the idea that the
world is against him, and likes to assume the importance of rebellion. What are you rebelling
against? What have you got? Its almost an expression of need. (Farren, 1985 : 43)
Page 13

But part of the attraction was also that the leather jacket was frowned upon, proscribed and
legislated against (Farren, 1985 : 6)

Fig. 4.The Birth of the American Biker, Rebelling fashion. (1947) by thespeedboys.blogspot : 2013
Fig. 3. 1950s lifestyle, rebel teens wearing discriminated against fashion(1950) by Jennacosgrove.com:
2014

One of the first images of rebellion available to kids of 1951 was those drunken hipsters who
trashed Hollister (Farren, 1985 : 43)

The black jacket has always been the uniform of bad. Hitlers Gestapo, the Hells Angels, the
Black Panthers, punk rockers, gay bar cruisrs, rock n roll animals and the hardcore mutations
of the eighties all adopted it as their own (Farren, 1985 : 12)
Page 14

Page 15

TROUBLE
WITH YOUR
IDENTITY?

Page 16

Page 17

Adolescents always have trouble with their identity. By definition its a time when youve yet
to find out who you are and you try all manner of masks and costumes. (Farren, 1985 : 43)

Fig. 6. The Breakfast Club fashion expressing which sub culture each person associates with (1985)
by yalsa.ala.org: 2015

For some people, clothing is an expression of personality, an almost inevitable and unconscious revelation of ones true self. Others see it as a means of putting across an image,
something which can be manipulated to improve the impression we give ourselves to others.
(Rouse, 1989 : 51)
Fig. 5. 1950s rebellious teenager (1950) by oralhistorynoticeboard.wordpress: 2014

Clothes can act as signs too. They carry messages and convey meaning in the same ways.
When you go to a party, or meet an individual or group of people for the first time, you observe
the people around you. You observe their faces, their hairstyles, their clothes and on the basis
of observation, you decide their age, their sex, possibly what social background they come
from, what kind of job they do, even what kind of person they are. (Rouse, 1989 : 12)

Page 18

Page 19

Fashion is a whole other thing when youre young theres a sense of wanting to express
yourself, an importance on individuality (Fresh Dressed, 2015 : documentary)

Fig. 8. Run DMC & Beastie Boys, a mix of styles and brands (1973) by Fuse.tv: 2013

Before what our influences were we were confined to what was at our reach and now its
the expansion and power of the internet I have access to every fashion, look brand across the
world. So I can be whoever I want to be (Fresh Dressed, 2015 : documentary)

Fig. 7. Fashion Street Style, individuality (2016) by Vogue:2016

Page 20

Page 21

Fig. 9. To be in fashion and stay an individual (1955) by Vogue

Page 22

Page 23

A SECOND
SKIN

Page 24

Page 25

Fig. 11. Second Skin. Being two people at once. (2013) by Miguel Vallinas, Madrid
Fig. 10. Seductive Fashion. Selling clothes by seducing the audience (2013)
by Camilla Akrans, SS13 Ad campaign

I lit a cigarette. Id been smoking for maybe a year or so, but this was the first time Id ever lit
one while I had an adults attention. Jekyll was already becoming Hyde. (Farren, 1985 : 8)

we need clothes to keep us warm, to protect us from the elements. Some might suggest that
we wear them because we would feel indecent without them and others would say that we
wear them to make ourselves look attractive (Rouse, 1989 : 2)
Page 26

Page 27

Fig. 12. Anti Fur (2013) by Fur Free Alliance

Clothes are a kind of second skin, an extension of our bodies. But are they an extension of
ourselves? When we lend someone a garment or an outfit, is that friend borrowing our identity
or character for the evening? (Rouse, 1989 : 51)

Page 28

Page 29

THE POWER,
THE WEALTH
& THE IDOL

Page 30

Page 31

The insecurity of not having anything is the only time you can showcase that you do. The
only way that you can show that you have anything and feel some kind of establishment is
by what you have on your body . What you have on your body is a reflection of how you are
economically doing. (Fresh Dressed, 2015 : documentary)

People are taking more risks.They feel empowered. Its almost as if the more risk you take the
more respect you get. (Fresh Dressed, 2015 : documentary)

Fig. 14. Miley Cyrus Shocks In Sheer Dress & Pasties. Taking a risk and expressing her style
(2013) by Clevver.com
Fig. 13. Wealth Pharrell Williams. An idol, promoting Louis Vuitton clothing accessories (2014) by Bornrich.com

Everybody wants to be recognised. Everybody wants to be noticed. I think what will really
change fashion to a lot of things was that the world embrased sexuality. It gave people who
have never been able to take a risk in fashion the green light now. (Fresh Dressed, 2015 : documentary)

Page 32

Because our society thrives on perpetual change and because changing clothing styles are
such an effective way of communicating the nature of these changes, we always need someone to stand in the spotlight to embody whats happening. (Polhemus and Procter, 1984 : 5)

Page 33

Mentality liberates everything, because its a mentality. So if you feel free, you are probably
going to dress like youre free and if you dress like your free you are probably going to be different than everybody else. Its untethered, its not bound by popularity or trendy opinion and
thats what freedom is, to be yourself (Fresh Dressed, 2015 : documentary)

Mentality Fashion is about authentic experiences so as long as its authentic experience and
people that are brave enough to have a point of view theyll be fashion. Thats what being a
fashion icon is, having the ability to do something that no one else is doing. (Fresh Dressed,
2015 : documentary)

Fig. 15. The Womans Movement Freedom of speech, rights and ultimately dress (2014) Chanel Feminism Catwalk

Page 34

Page 35

Page 36

y
h
p
a
r
g
o
i
l
ib

Page 37

Articles
ADVERTISING AGE., 2003. History : 1950, Advertising Age [online]. 15th September 2003,

Books

Available via www.adage.com [accessed: 12/11/16]

MAHE, Y., 2015. History of Jeans, Fashion Time [online]. 17th January 2015, Available via

POLHEMUS, T., 1994. Streetstyle : From Sidewalk to Catwalk. London : Thames & Hudson
Ltd
HEDGES, D., 1979. Subculture: The Meaning of Style. London: Routledge.
LEE, M., 2003. Fashion Victim: Our Love-Hate Relationship with Dressing, Shopping, and

Additional Source

the Cost of Style. New York : Broadway Books.

Fresh Dressed, 2015. [film]. Sacha Jenkins, USA : Mass Appeal

PHOLHEMUS, T., PROCTER, L., 1978. Fashion & Anti Fashion : anthropology of clothing and

The Wild One, 1954. [film]. Laslo Benedek, USA : Stanley Kramer Productions

adornment. London : Thames & Hudson Ltd

Sexualised Violence in fashion advertising, 2012 [video]. Voice of Russia UK, UK : Bulgarian

POLHEMUS, T., PROCTER, L., 1984. Pop Styles. London : Vermilion

magazine 12

BARTHES, R., STAFFORD, A., 2006. The Language of Fashion. Oxford : Berg
MCDOWELL, C., 2013. The Anatomy of Fashion: Why we dress the way we do. London:
Phaidon Press
FARREN, M., 1985. The Black Leather Jacket. London: Plexus
ROUSE, E., 1989. Understanding Fashion. London : BSP Professional
SIMS, J., 1999. Rock Fashion. London : Omnibus

Page 38

Page 39

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Page 40
Femin

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n, 1 98 lso that th
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leathe
: 6)
ha
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of the anthers, pu s always b
et wa
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n
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4 3)
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ter (F
t
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85 : 12
1 98 5
sa
to find
the ha lls Angels,
: 4 3) ailable to k
)
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L i st o
f C ita
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Page 41

ways.
ey meaning in the same
nv
co
d
an
es
ag
ss
me
ns too. They carry
first time, you observe
e
th
r
fo
le
op
pe
of
C lothes can act as sig
p
ou
or gr
e basis
, or meet an individual
their clothes and on th
,
les
ty
irs
ha
When you go to a party
eir
th
s,
ce
ey come
You observe their fa
t social background th
ha
w
y
the people around you.
ibl
ss
po
x,
se
eir
89 : 12)
cide their age, th
on they are. (Rouse, 19
of observation, you de
rs
pe
of
d
kin
t
ha
w
en
they do, ev
d unconfrom, what kind of job
, an almost inevitable an
ty
ali
on
rs
pe
of
n
sio
es
ing is an expr
ross an image,
For some people, cloth
a means of putting ac
as
it
e
se
rs
he
Ot
.
lf
othse
es true
n we give ourselves to
sio
es
pr
im
scious revelation of on
e
th
e
ov
pr
im
be manipulated to
something which can
express
ers. (Rouse, 1989 : 51)
a sense of wanting to
es
er
th
g
un
yo
e
ur
yo
her thing when
2015 : documentary)
d,
Fashion is a whole ot
se
es
Dr
sh
re
(F

ty
ali
e on individu
now its
yourself, an importanc
t was at our reach and
ha
w
to
d
ne
nfi
co
e
er
the
nces were we w
ion, look brand across
sh
fa
y
er
ev
to
Before what our influe
ss
ce
ac
er of the internet I have
entary)
the expansion and pow
Dressed, 2015 : docum
sh
re
(F

be
to
t
an
w
at
I
ever
Some might suggest th
s.
nt
world. So I can be who
me
ele
e
th
m
fro
us
that we
ep us warm, to protect
and others would say
em
th
t
ou
we need clothes to ke
ith
w
t
en
ec
e we would feel ind
we wear them becaus
ouse, 1989 : 2)
elves look attractive (R
rs
ou
time Id ever lit
ke
ma
to
em
th
r
wea
, but this was the first
so
or
ar
ye
a
e
yb
ma
r
smoking fo
Hyde. (Farren, 1985 : 8)
ng
mi
co
be
I lit a cigarette. Id been
dy
ea
alr
as
s attention. Jekyll w
extension of
one while I had an adult
bodies. But are they an
r
ou
of
ion
ns
te
ex
an
r identity
second skin,
at friend borrowing ou
th
is
t,
tfi
C lothes are a kind of
ou
an
or
t
en
d someone a garm
ourselves? When we len
: 51)
ening? (Rouse, 1989
or character for the ev

Page 42

The insecurity of not having anything is the only time you can showcase that you do. The
only way that you can show that you have anything and feel some kind of establishment is
by what you have on your body . What you have on your body is a reflection of how you are
economically doing. (Fresh Dressed, 2015 : documentary)
Everybody wants to be recognised. Everybody wants to be noticed. I think what will really
change fashion to a lot of things was that the world embrased sexuality. It gave people who
have never been able to take a risk in fashion the green light now. (Fresh Dressed, 2015 : documentary)
People are taking more risks.They feel empowered. Its almost as if the more risk you take the
more respect you get. (Fresh Dressed, 2015 : documentary)
Because our society thrives on perpetual change and because changing clothing styles are
such an effective way of communicating the nature of these changes, we always need someone to stand in the spotlight to embody whats happening. (Polhemus and Procter, 1984 : 5)
Mentality liberates everything, because its a mentality. So if you feel free, you are probably
going to dress like youre free and if you dress like your free you are probably going to be different than everybody else. Its untethered, its not bound by popularity or trendy opinion and
thats what freedom is, to be yourself (Freshed Dressed, 2015 : documentary)
Mentality Fashion is about authentic experiences so as long as its authentic experience and
people that are brave enough to have a point of view theyll be fashion. Thats what being a
fashion icon is, having the ability to do something that no one else is doing. (Fresh Dressed,
2015 : documentary)
Page 43