WhoIsZwartePiet?

By Emily Raboteau (/people/emily-raboteau)

(//dj9frc12kq0lk.cloudfront.net/sites/default/files/storymainimages/raboteau_01_opt_75_01.jpg)
The arrival of Sinterklaas (Saint Nicholas) and Zwarte Piet (Black Pete) in a Frisian village
in the Netherlands on November 24, 2012. (Patrick Post / Hollandse Hoogte)
34-MINUTE READ

ISSUE: Winter 2014 (/issues/90/1/winter-2014)

AholidaytraditionintheNetherlandsinvolvingblackfacehas
sparkedadebateaboutrace,thelegacyofslavery,andthevestiges
ofcolonialism.
MorningsicknessservedasmyconstantcompanionduringthefallandwinterIlived
inAmsterdam.AttimesIwouldhavetoparkmybicycleonahumpbackbridgeto
vomitintoacanal.Maybeasmellsetmeoff:thefishybrinecomingfroma
haringhandel,thepoopofthesadswansintheredlightdistrict,orthestinkofsome
cheeseatNoordermarkt.Butitwasntjustthesmellspushingmetowardnausea.
ZwartePietwasalsomakingmesick.Hisbootblackminstrelfacewaseverywherein
therunuptoSinterklaasavond(SaintNicholassEve),whichistheNetherlands

biggestholidayandthegiftgivingequivalentofChristmas.Intheweeksbefore
December5,whentheholidayiscelebrated,hehauntstheshopdisplays,repellentbut
mesmerizing,likethetwosidesofamagnet.
WhoisZwartePiet?Tounderstand,letsstartwithjollyoldSaintNicholas.
SaintNicholasistheredrobed,whitebeardedprototypeforourSantaClaus.There
areafewimportantdistinctionsbetweentheSantawhocomestotownintheUSand
Sinterklaas,ashescalledintheNetherlandsandformerterritoriesoftheDutch
EmpireincludingAruba,Suriname,Curaao,SintMaarten,andIndonesia.Forone
thing,Sinterklaasisthin.Foranother,hesfarsternerthanourmanintheredsuit:
HesabishopfromTurkey,aswellasthepatronsaintofchildren,sailors,andthecity
ofAmsterdam.HeridesawhitehorsenamedAmerigoinsteadofasleighledby
Rudolphandtheotherreindeer.HedoesntflyinfromtheNorthPole,butarrives
fromSpainbyboat.Andintheplaceofassistantelves,hehasBlackPete,knownto
theDutchasZwartePiet.ZwartePietisSinterklaassshadow(personanongrata),his
servant,hisslave.
Thelocalskeptinsistinghewasntsupposedtobeablackman,despitehisblackface
guise.InsteadtheytoldmethathewasSinterklaasspartner,orpal,andthatheonly
appearedblackbecausehedcomedownthechimneyandwascoveredinsoot.This
explanationwasblatantlyunconvincingbecausehisclotheswerepristine,hislips
wereclownishlybig,andhehadwoolyhair.AsSandewHira,aSurinameseDutch
historianIspoketo,putit,HowcanaDutchchimneybesodifferentfromallother
chimneysthatawhitepersoncangodownandcomeouttheotherendasanAfrican?
LikemanyblackDutchwhoprotestZwartePiet,Hiraseeshimasanannualirritation,
arepresentationofthelegacyofslaverywithoutanyformofshame.Theydenigrate
blackpeoplewiththis,hesaid.MyDutchmidwifedisagreed.ShesawZwartePietas
areservoirofnostalgiaandgoodfeelingasource,notanobject,offun.Sheallowed
forthepossibilitythathehadbeenaMoorishslaveatonetime,butifthatwastrue,
thenhehadfreelychosentobeSinterklaassfaithfulvaletoutofgratitudewhenthe
bishoppurchasedhisfreedom.
TheDutchareoftenfuzzyonthedetailsofZwartePietshistory.Manybelievehe
originatesinthenineteenthcenturyrhymingchildrensbookSaintNicholasandHis
Servant,pennedbyschoolteacherJanSchenkman.Publishedin1850,thirteenyears
beforetheNetherlandsbecameamongthelastEuropeannationstoabolishslavery,
thebookdepictedSinterklaaswithablackservantforthefirsttime.ButZwartePiet
existedindifferentformlongbeforeSchenkmansstoryappeared.MostDutchdont
connectZwartePiettopriormythsrootedintheMiddleAgesthatalwayshaveSaint
Nicholasoperatingintandemwithaservantwho,underdifferentnamesand
disguisesaccordingtotimeandplace,personifiesatamedSatan.Thisdomesticated
devilwasoftendepictedinchainstoconveythatNicholashadshackledandenslaved

himasatriumphoverevil.SeveralSaintNicholascustomsfromothernations
continuetodepictthebenevolentsaintinthecompanyof,andindominionover,a
symbolicallyevilcharacter.
InAustria,SaintNicholasispairedwiththedemonic,horned,redtonguedKrampus
inGermanyhesservedbyasooty,meanfarmhandnamedRuprechtinFranceand
Luxembourg,hisattendantisanevilbutchernamed,respectively,PreFouettardand
Houscker(Mr.Bogeyman,looselytranslated)inSwitzerlandhishelperisabrown
faced,brownrobedchildbeatingkidnappernamedSchmutzli,andintheCzechand
Slovaktraditions,SaintNicholasstillrideswiththestraightuphairydevil.These
monstersareZwartePietskissingcousins.ThisistheDutchspinontheoldstoryof
themythicdyad(apairconsideredtobeone)ofgoodandevilrepresentedbySaint
Nicholasandhisdarkerhalf:TheconquereddevilisanAfricanman.

A childrens book from the 1920s that tells the story of Saint Nicholas and Zwarte Piet. The cover reads, From Spain to
our country. Description of the journey of St. Nicolaas/lithograph based on original sketches for December 6th made
by Corns de Bruin. (Used courtesy of Koninklijke Bibliotheek, National Library of the Netherlands.)

WithoutconnectingtheirownSinterklaascustomtosuchpracticesofmoralmastery,
afewDutchpeopleIaskedaboutZwartePietdidadmitthatheusedtobeamore
menacingtype.Whentheythemselveswerechildren,theydbeenwarnedthatPiet
wouldbeatthemwithastickiftheywerenaughty,thencarrythemofftoSpainina
sack.Butnowadays,theyexplained,hismainrolewassimplytomaketheirchildren
happy.TodayZwartePietscattersspicedcookiesandcandy,singssongs,leavesgifts
inshoesplacedbythedoor,recordsthosewhovebeennaughtyornicein
Sinterklaassbookofnames,andholdsthebridleofhismasterswhitehorse.Inthis
lastposture,heremindedmealittleofalawnjockey,thatAmericanholdoverfrom
thedaysofReconstructionandJimCrow.Clearly,thiswaswhyZwartePiethaunted
andsickenedmeinAmsterdam.IthoughtIdleftthiskindofnonsensebehindinthe
UnitedStates.TheUnitedStatescirca1950,thatis.
OntheoccasionswhenIpointedouttheproblemofZwartePietssubserviencein
lightofthecenturieslongDutchtrafficinthetransatlanticslavetrade,mynew
neighborstookoffense.ThiswastheNetherlands,theyremindedme,knownforits
socialtolerance,liberalism,politicalfreedom,andprogressivepoliciesongayrights,
prostitution,euthanasia,andmarijuana.Racialdiscriminationdoesntexisthere.
Theyreprimandedmeforimportingtheracismofmycountryandprojectingitontoa
childrensfestival.Theirhistorywasnotthesameasours.CouldntIseethis?Zwarte
Pietwasadeartradition,notanoutdatedpractice.Ifanyonewasactingbackward,it
wasI,formentioningraceatall.
TheaccusationthatIwasthebackwardthinkingpartyseemedmorebewilderingthan
offensive.ItstruethatasanAmericanwithAfricanancestry,myhackleswereraised
whenZwartePietstartedpoppingupthatholidayseason.Atfirst,hewasinanimate,
likePinocchiobeforeGepettowishedhimintoarealboy.Therehewas,asalicorice
treatorachocolatefigurine.Andagainasamarionette,astuffeddoll,oratree
ornamentonsalenexttoabinoftulipbulbs.Pietshoweduponpostersandfood
packagingaswellasinprintedadvertisementsandcartoonsthatIfailedto
understand.Thenhemadehisroundsatshoppingmallsandschools,andstarredon
TVspecialswhereIcouldseehewasaclumsy,dimwitted,servilebuffoon.IthoughtI
recognizedhisfacetheexaggeratedredlipsandthebulgingeyes.Atfirstglance,
ZwartePietresembledBuckwheatfromOurGang,excepthewasallgrownup.Then
again,helookedlikethecoonLouisArmstrongpretendedtobe,strippedofSatchmos
ironyandsoul.Oncloserinspection,hewasMammysstepchild,LittleBlackSambo,
oratimetravelerfromtheGoldenAgeinthedandydressofaRenaissancepage.
Hesastereotype,Ikeptgroaning,thoughthatseemedtoolightawordforZwarte
Pietsadnauseamdemeanor.Yourebeingracist,myDutchneighborsreplied.We
lovehim.Iwasarguingwithawall.TheirresponsetomeasanAmericanwas
certainlynothingcomparedtothevitriolspatatblackDutchpeoplewhodaredto

makesimilarcomplaints.ButthereisatleastonethingmyDutchfriendsignorein
theirdefenseofZwartePiet:Thehistoricalbaggageofslaveryisnotlimitedto
Americasshores.
IfIsawalloftheseresemblances,othersmustseethemaswell,includingthe
connectiontotheslavetrade.ZwartePietsbrightcostumeevendatesfromtheera
whentheDutchtraffickedinslaves,anotherhistorymyDutchfriendsseemedpretty
fuzzyabout.Theuniformincludesgoldhoopearrings,afeatheredcap,awhiteruffled
collaroveradoublet,andstockingsundervelvetpantaloons.HealsosportsanAfro.
Buthismostimportantfeaturebyfar(asinthepopularminstrelshowsand
vaudevilleactsthatdominatedthenineteenthcenturyAmericanstage)isthecolorof
hisface.StartingaroundHalloweentheyselllittlepotsofblackmakeupinthe
drugstores.ThisisusedbythecitizensoftheNetherlandsinthethirdweekof
November,whentraditionhasSinterklaasarrivingbysteamshipfromSpain,assisted
byacrewofinterchangeableBlackPetes.Thatswhenthefigurespringstolife
throughthepowerofblackfaceandtakesthecitybystorm.
TheconnectionbetweenZwartePietandslaverystruckmeasblatantbecauseofmy
research.Theyearbefore,IdtraveledtothecoastofGhanaandtouredtheformer
slavecastleatElmina,operatedbytheDutchfrom1637intotheearlynineteenth
century.Thiswasthewarehousewherecaptives,whowerecountedasheadsofcattle,
werehelduntiltheshipsarrivedtocarrythemacrosstheAtlantic,wheretheywere
forcedtoworkonplantationsintheAmericasforfree.Manyofthemdiedofdisease
inthecastlebeforeboardingtheships.Idwitnessedtheslenderdoorofnoreturn
throughwhich,bytheeighteenthcentury,asmanyas30,000Africanspassedeach
year.Manyofthosewhomadeitontotheshipsdied,too.NowthatIwasin
Amsterdam,Icouldstudythatdeathmarchfromtheotherside,intheempirescourt.
Inasense,IwasalreadylookingatthelegacyofthishistoryeverydayasIbikedthe
streetsofAmsterdam.Thecityhadfloweredfromaninsignificantfishermansvillage
intothefinancialcenteroftheworldduringtheeraofgreatprosperityspanningthe
seventeenthcenturywenowcalltheGoldenAge.Itwasinthebuildingsthatdated
fromthattimetheformerguildhalls,thelowslunghouseswiththeirgabledroofs,
andtheRoyalPalaceonDamSquare.ItwashangingonthewallattheRijksmuseum,
underwritingthemagnificentbrushstrokesofRembrandtandJohannesVermeer.It
wasintheveryqualityofbourgeoislife,intheenactmentofleisure,athreadinthe
fabricoftheeconomythatmakestheNetherlandsoneoftherichestcountriesinthe
world.Sometimes,intheevenings,Iwouldpeervoyeuristicallyintothewindowsof
thenarrowbrickrowhouses.Everythingseemedsogorgeouslytasteful,fromthelight
fixturestothecookware,fromtheladderedbookshelvestothebowlsoffruit.Iaskeda
colleagueofmyhusbandswhynobodyusedcurtainsorblinds.Wewantyouto
admireourpossessions,shejoked,butnottoringourdoorbellandaskto
borrowanything.

EvenchildrenyoungenoughtobelieveinSinterklaascanrecitetheachievementsof
theDutchempire.Itsabigpartofwhattheyaretaughtinschoolandconsequentlyis
acomponentofDutchculturalidentity.Dutchchildrenalllearnthatby1650the
kingdomoftheNetherlands,thenknownastheDutchRepublic,wastheforemost
commercialandmaritimepowerofEurope.Itdominatedtheworldstradeby
operatingthelargestmerchantfleet,reapingprofitsfromcolonizedterritoriesinthe
EastIndiesunderthesupervisionoftheDutchEastIndiaCompany.
LesstreatedinthecurriculumontheDutchEmpireisitsdeepinvolvementinthe
triangulartransatlanticslavetradethroughtheDutchWestIndiaCompany
incorporatedbythegovernmentin1621whoseinitialsIdseenstampedabovethe
archwayoftheslavecastleinGhana.Dutchdemandforslavelaborwassointense
that,ratherthanwaittoreloadwithtobaccoandsugar,shipswouldoftensailhometo
theNetherlandsemptyofcargo.Profitsfromslavelaborultimatelyenrichedthe
Dutchroyalfamily(whosecurrentfortuneisundisclosedbutestimatedatasmuchas
$2.5billion),whospentthemoneyconstructingpalacesandacquiringart.Butthe
profitsalsocontributedtothepocketsofaveragecitizenswhohadsharesintheDutch
WestIndiaCompanyandspentthemoneyonbeer.
TheDutchwerentslaveowners:Theywereshareholders.Despitetheactive
involvementoftheNetherlandsintheglobalslavetradeformorethan200years,
slaverywasillegalonDutchsoil.Becauseofthis,theydidnthavetoconfrontthe
miserablelivesoftheenslavedunfoldingonplantationssofaraway,andforthemost
part,theystilldont.
TheDutchfailtoconnectZwartePiettoracismtodaypreciselybecausethecultureof
theNetherlandswassodetachedfromitsmercantileinvolvementintheslavetrade
backthen.Merchantscouldclaimtohavesharesinsugarorcoffee,asifthose
productsweredivorcedfromtheslavelaborthatproducedthem.Thatterminology
hadadistancingeffect,alongwiththewidegeographicaldistancebetweenthe
Netherlandsanditscolonialoutposts.Inotherwords,theDutchdidntgettheir
handsdirty.Theysimplyenjoyedtheprofitsgrownfromthatbloodysoil.
TheDutchdidntgothroughanationshakingcivilwartoleadtowardabolitionaswe
didintheUS,oranythinglikeourlongandbloodycivilrightsstruggletodismantle
JimCrow.TheydidntlimpthroughReconstructionwithbrutallynchingsandactsof
racialterrorismalongtheway.Theyhadnothingintheircolonialpastonthescaleof
EmmettTillorRodneyKingorHurricaneKatrinatoforcetheconversationaboutthe
ongoingracialdivide.Instead,theDutchhaveZwartePiet,aChristmasstoogethey
refusetoreallyknow,evenastheyrefusetolethimgo.

IncontrastwiththegoldenstoryabouttheDutchEmpire,thedarkchapterofthe
transatlanticslavetradeisnotastandardpartofthecurriculuminDutchschools.
AccordingtoYaleprofessorofsociologyRonEyerman,whostudiesculturaltrauma,
Nosocietyexistswithoutamysteriouscenter,asacredcoreattheheartofits
nationalidentity.Sometimesthatculturehasasecretcenteraboutwhichnoone
wantstospeak.EyermancomparessilenceaboutDutchslaverytobansonspeech
abouttheHolocaustin1950sGermany.Althoughitsatacitagreement,ratherthana
legalrestriction,EyermansaysinHollandPublicdiscussionwasneverformally
forbidden,butthereappearstohavebeenacollectiveagreementonsilence.Thisis
verydifferentfromslaveryinothercountries,suchasEnglandandtheUnitedStates,
wheretherewasgreatpublicconsternationaboutslavery.Itwouldtakewhathecalls
atearinthesocialfabrictoshakethecollectiveidentityenoughtorenarrateDutch
history.Thattearwouldneedtobereallybig,Eyermansuggestsapublictraumaon
theorderoftheassassinationofDr.MartinLutherKingJr.Toacknowledgetherole
ofslaveryinDutchsocietyasawhole,itwouldtakethatlevelofconfrontationwith
disgrace,thatlevelofsacrifice.WhenIheardEyermansharehistheoryofcultural
traumaasitrelatestotheDutchslavetrade,Iknewrightawaywhoshouldbe
sacrificed:ZwartePiet.Hewouldbemissedbynearlyeveryone,becausethenation
lovedhimsodearly.YethewasalsothefaceoftheNetherlandsdisgrace.
ThewordshamekeptcroppingupwhenItalkedtoHiraaboutZwartePiet.Inan
efforttocorrectwhatheseesasanarrowEurocentricvisionofDutchhistory,Hira
directsaresearchinstitutedevelopingconceptsofdecolonizingthemind.Weare
developingacritiqueofthewaytheDutchhavebeeninfluencedbycolonialism,he
said.IfanimmigrantstealsabottleofCoke,hesacriminal,butwhenHolland
occupiesSuriname,theycallitadiscoveryandusetermslikewesetupaplantation.
Itsnotseenasacriminalacteventhoughitwouldmoreaccuratelybedescribedasa
forcedlaborcamp.TaketheZwartePietdiscussion.Theyreactvehementlywhenwe
criticizehimasbeinginsanebecauseitsabreachoftheirreality.Theyhavent
presentedcolonialismandslaveryasashamefulact.Shamepreventsyoufrombeing
uncivilized.Weneedtodevelopshame.

Threemonthspregnant,IwaspedalingalongOosterdokskadetoAmsterdamsmain
publiclibrarywhenIfoundmyselfsmackdabinthemiddleoftheSinterklaasparade.
NowIwasfacetofacewithZwartePiet,ortobemoreaccurate,ZwartePieten.Not
alloftherevelerswereblackedup.Mostlyitwasthechildren.DisturbedasIwasby
theflagrantminstrelsy,theculturalblindness,andthepoliticalincorrectness,apart
ofmewantedtofollowthecircus.MaybeIwasjustprocrastinating,butin
comparisonwithmydepressingresearchtopic,theparadeseemedlikefun.Music
blaredintheneardistance:atuba,anaccordion,andacalliope.Ifiguredthatmy

workcouldwait.Itwouldhavehadtowaitinanycase.AsIlaterdiscovered,there
werenobooksonthetopicoftheDutchslavetradeintheEnglishlanguagecollection
ofthepubliclibrary.

A store display in the Netherlands of Sinterklaas and Zwarte Piet celebratory candy bars, October 2013. (Arie Kievitt /
Hollandse Hoogte / Redux)

WeparadegoersgatheredattheharborbeforetheScheepvaartmusuem,alsoknown
astheMaritimeMuseum.TwoyearslateritwouldrunanexhibitaboutaDutchWest
IndiaCompanyslaveshipcalledtheLeusdenthatsankinastorm,drowningnearly
700Africanslockedinitsholdbythecrew.Forthedaysfestivities,afleetofboats
bobbedinthewater.AttheprowofeachboatstoodastatelySinterklaas,andonthe
deckofeach,aswarmofblackbodies.TherewerehundredsofZwartePieten.Unlike
thekidsincostumearoundme,thePetesontheboatwereprofessionalgrade.Thatis,
ifyoublurredyoureyesfromtheshoreline,youmightactuallymistakethemforblack
people.Theywerentinchains,ofcourse.Asamatteroffact,theywere
doingsomersaults.
WhiletheDutchcheered,IthoughtofHermanMelvillesclassicnovellaBenito
Cereno,thestoryofaboatfulofmutinousAfricanswhobreakfreeandoverthrow
theirwhitecaptors,atleastforalittlewhile.Icouldonlyimaginecheeringifallthose
ZwartePietenworkedtogethertochuckSinterklassoverboardintotheharbor.

GiventhetragedyoftheLeusden,whosedeathtollwasadropinthebucketoftheas
manyas60millionAfricanstransportedinthetransatlanticslavetrade(onlyafifthof
whomwouldarriveintheAmericas),howcouldtheDutchnotthinkofthebodiesof
slaveswhentheyputonblackfaceandcrowdedontoboatsforthispageant?
Atnoon,abiggerboatdockedwiththemainSinterklaas,whowaswelcomedbythe
mayor.HemountedhiswhitehorseandbeganhisridethroughAmsterdam.I
followedhimdownPrinsHendrikkadetoDamrack,towardDamSquarewhere
hundredsmoreZwartePietentossedgingercookiesanddancedtolivemusicforthe
childrengatheredonthesidelines,whowerealsodressedasZwartePiet.Iaskeda
youngfathertotranslatethesongeveryonewassinging.ImaybeblackbutImean
wellhestumbled.Thetoddlerridingonhisshoulderswasinblackface.Itwasrare
toseesomanyblackfacesinAmsterdam,unlessyouwereintheneighborhoodofthe
Bijlmer,wheretherealblackpeoplelived.TheparademoveddowntheRokinto
Muntplein,thendowntheVijzelstraattoWeteringcircuit.Moreblackface,andyet
moreblackface.Piet,Piet!thechildrencried.Itseemedtheylovedhimmorethan
Sinterklaas,whocarriedamiterandneversmiled.Somewherealongtheparaderoute
mymorningsicknesskickedinagainandIfeltImightthrowup.Irealized,whenwe
reachedLeidseplein,whereSinterklaasaddressedusfromthebalconyofthe
Stadsschouwburg,thatIhadforgottentoeatlunch.Thenahappydiscovery:Oneof
theZwartePietenhadfilledmysaddlebagswithpepernoten.

British-born photographer Anna Fox documented the Zwarte Piet tradition in the Netherlands in a series of
photographs she took from 1993 to 1998. These two portraits are from her series of eighteen portraits from her book
Zwarte Piet (1999).

British-born photographer Anna Fox documented the Zwarte Piet tradition in the Netherlands in a series of
photographs she took from 1993 to 1998. These two portraits are from her series of eighteen portraits from her book
Zwarte Piet (1999).

WhileImunchedonthoselittleEurocoinsizedcookiesmadesoggybytherain,one
particularchildcapturedmyattention.Shewasolderthantheothers,maybetenor
eleven.Hermakeupwasunevenlyapplied,asifshedsmudgedherfacewithdirt.In
herearwasacochlearimplant,andwhensheshoutedPietsnameyoucouldhearthe
deafnessinhervoice,butalsothejoy.Hermotherstooddirectlybehindher,happyto
seeherdaughtermadesohappy.Icouldntbeangrywiththatgirl,whowasguileless,
norwithhermother,whohadgrownupwiththetradition.OnePietstoppedclowning
longenoughtogivethegirlcookies.Imustadmititmademefeelgoodtoseethatgirl
smiling.Ifeltmybabyquickeninginsidemeandlookedforwardtofuture
Christmases:eggnog,SilentNight,midnightmass,thesmellofthetree.I
rememberedmyfeltstockingstuffedwithwalnuts,tangerines,andcandycanes,and

choosingthebiggestpresenttoopenonChristmasEve.IknewIwouldgladlylie
aboutSantaClaustomakemykidschildhoodmoremagical,justasmyparentshad
doneforme.WasthereaningredientofloveinallthisZwartePietstuff?
Ofcoursetherewas.ButasprotestorsintheNetherlandshavebeenpointingoutwith
mountingforceinrecentyears,thereisalsosomethingsinisterandcruel.Oneyear
afterIwalkedmybikealongtheparaderouteinAmsterdam,astudentactivistnamed
QuinsyGariowastackledtothegroundbypoliceintheportcityofDordrechtforthe
simpleactofshowinguponthesidelinesinaTshirtthatsaidZwartePietisRacisme.
Whenhedefendedhisrighttofreespeech,theydraggedhimintoanalleywayoutof
thesightofthechildren.There,theyarrestedhim.Theentirespectaclewascaptured
onvideoandwentviralontheinternet,justasGariohadplanned.Moreoftenthan
notinthemediaflurrythatensued,hewasdepictedastheenemy.Thenextday,five
moreprotestersemulatingGariowerealsoarrestedoneofthearrestingofficers
proclaimed,Sinterklaashasrights,too.
InOctober2013IspokewithGario,shortlyafterheappearedonDutchnational
television.Inthetwoyearssincehisarrest,hedbecomeaposterchildfortheZwarte
PietisRacismeresistancecampaign,pushingforempathyandpublicdebateon
discriminationthroughvariousactsofperformanceart.Thathedbeeninvitedonthis
popularleftleaningnightlyprogramwith900,000viewerssuggestedthathehadthe
nationsear.
GariowasborninCuraaoin1984andraisedinSintMaartenbeforemovingtothe
Netherlandstostudytheaterandperformanceattheageofeighteen.Hispathtothe
NetherlandsfromtheformerDutchAntillesreflectsalargerblackmigrationthats
beengoingonsincethemid1970s,whenSuriname(onthenorthcoastofSouth
America)gainedindependenceonlytoswiftlysuccumbtopoliticalstrife,military
dictatorship,andcivilwar.Anticipatingthatthenewnationwouldfareworseafter
independencethanithadunderDutchrule,athirdofSurinamespopulation
migratedtotheNetherlands.Finally,andquitesuddenly,theDutchcamefacetoface
withthedescendantsoftheenslaved.Andoverwhelmingly,becausetheyhadnoother
referent,DutchkidscalledtheseimmigrantsZwartePiet.Despitetheirtiestothe
Netherlands,theSurinamesewerentseenasDutch.
AllofthismeansthatasubstantiveblackpresenceintheNetherlandshasreallyonly
existedforacoupleofgenerations.ThisisanotherreasonwhytheDutchstillhave
suchdifficultyconnectingZwartePiettoracism:Untilveryrecently,theyhaventlived
amongblackpeople.

Student activist Quinsy Gario alongside the logo for the campaign Zwarte Piet Is Racisme, the Netherlands, November
2011.

TheDutchmaynotbelievetheyhaveracialissues,butfromGariosperspective,inthe
Netherlands,raceisboundupwithimmigration.ManyDutchpeopleopenlytake
issuewithimmigration,expressingdistrustofallochtoonoutsidersasshownby
theelectionofrightwingpoliticianslikePartyofFreedomfounderGeertWilders,
who,inhiscampaignagainstwhathefearsistheIslamisationoftheNetherlands,
hascalledforclosedborders.WhilerisingxenophobicsentimentintheNetherlandsis
usuallytargetedatMuslims,thereareconcretedisparitiesbetweenDutchcitizens
whoareSurinameseandthosewhoarewhite.Forexample,theunemploymentrateof
Surinameseyouthyoungerthantwentyfiveismorethanthreetimesthatofnative
whiteDutchinthesameagegroup.Gariobelievesthatframingtheconversation
aboutZwartePietasaharmlesstraditionobfuscatestheseracialissues.
ThedayGarioappearedonTValsohappenedtobehistwentyninthbirthday.He
admittedtofeelingoutofstepwiththetelevisionproducersstereotypeofhimasan
angryblackman.Imprettycalmandmildmanneredbynature,hetoldme.Inthe
clipIdwatched,heseemedaspoised,articulate,andfunnyashedidinourchat,even
whentheconversationturnedhostile.AlthoughIcouldntfollowtheDutch,Icould
understandthatoneoftheguestsontheshow,apopularsingerwhoremindedmeof
RushLimbaughinbodyandspirit,hadbecomedefensiveandangrywithGariofor
speakingcriticallyofZwartePiet.
Hebaitedme,GarioexplainedwhenIaskedhimtoelucidatetheexchange.Ididnt
shoutback.Ilethimbethescreamer.Hetriedpokingatigerinacage.Imnotatiger.
Thatshim.YoucantconvinceaDutchpersonthatZwartePietisracistbecausethey

willsayhesnotintendedtobeso.Hesfunandshouldthereforebetakeninthespirit
offun.Theresacognitivedissonanceforthembetweenintentionandaction.Anact
canonlyberacistifitsmeanttoberacist.Thisisanotionofderailmentandnegation,
awaynottoengagewithadiscussionpartner.TheythinkracismmeansNazis,
gassing,theShoah,andHitler.SoIjustlethimripmeapartwithracistwordsit
mademypointbetterthanIcouldmakeit.
IaskedGariowhetherhedbeeninspiredbyanyblackprotestmovementsintheUS.I
expectedhimtonametheCivilRightsMovementsincehispeacefultacticstogetthe
dominantculturetochangeitsheartbyretiringZwartePietseemedlikepassive
resistance.Instead,hesurprisedmebymentioningtheBlackPantherParty.He
reachedforabookonhisshelfbyEmoryDouglass,thepartysMinisterofCulture,
whomhedmet.
Thisyear,whenZwartePietcomestotheNetherlands,Ithinktherecouldberiots,
hesaidquitepleasantly.Iassumedhewastalkingaboutblackrioterstryingtotopple
ZwartePiet.Later,IwonderedifIhadnttwistedhismeaningaround.MaybeGario
wasforecastingawhiteriotofDutchmenwhowouldrefusetoletZwartePietfall
fromgrace.
Intheaftermathoftheshow,onlineresponsestoGariospositionincludedseveral
deaththreats.Thesewereasunsettlingastheywereartless.AccordingtoGario,a
numberoftweetscalledhimanuglynigger.Heshouldgobackwherehecame
fromifhedoesntlikeithere,someonetweeted.Letstiearockaroundhisneckand
throwhimintheocean,chirpedsomeoneelse.Letsfindahighenoughbranchto
lynchthatnigger.GethimaticketbacktoAfrica.Andthiscomparativelyoriginal
headscratcher:QuinsyGarioisincitingethniccleansing.ApolicemanwarnedGario
thatifhekeptonyapping,hewasgoingtohavetoeatthroughastraw.
Itsnotjustablackandwhiteissue,ClemmyTjinBrometrecentlyaddedwhenI
contactedherabouttheunfoldingdrama.MostblackpeoplehereloveZwarte
Piettoo.
IfirstmetTjinBrometwhenIstilllivedinAmsterdam.Shewasborninthesouth
NetherlandsbutsheidentifiesasSurinamese.WhenIaskedwhyshedidntidentifyas
Dutch,shesaiditwasbecauseshewasproudofherculturalheritage,butalsobecause
theDutchdidntseeherasnative.TheysawhermoreorlessastheysawGarioa
guest.Herface,likesomanyblackfacesintheNetherlands,reflectsthemlangeof
ethnicgroupscomprisingtheDutchEmpirenotjusttheenslavedWestAfricans,but
theIndonesian,Indian,Chinese,andMiddleEasternersbroughtinascontracted
workerstosupplementtheshortfallofmanuallaboraftertheabolitionofslavery.She
hasaChinesegrandfather,yetshegrewupinHollandbeingcalled(withamixof
derisionandtenderness)ZwartePiet,asin,Youjustgotofftheboat.Entertainus.

ZwartePietfrightenedherasachild.Pointingtothecharacterswickedness,she
recalled,Hewastheonetopunishyouifyouwerebad.Hecarriedaswitch.
SinterklaasisalsodoneinSuriname.AsIgrewup,hechanged.Thereweremoreand
moreofhim,liketheSmurfs.AhandyPiet,afunnyPiet,andsoon,butalwaysclumsy
anddumb,andwithaSurinameseaccent.
Nowthatshesanadult,TjinBrometchoosestokeephertwosonsathomewhen
Sinterklaasavondiscelebratedattheirschool,ratherthanoverexposethemtoZwarte
Piet,whomshescometoseeasacaricature.Itsimpossibletoavoidhimentirely.
WereknownasthefamilythatdoesntcelebrateSinterklaaseventhoughwedo
exchangepresents.Inourblackneighborhoodtherearentalotofotherpeople
willingtoletgoofthiscelebration.Peoplestrugglingtopayrentandfeedtheirkids
seetheprotestagainstZwartePietasastruggleforintellectuals,TjinBrometsaid.
Myparentsinlawstillcelebrate,andweletthempickupthekidsforacelebrationat
theirplace.ButZwartePiethasnoparthere.
InaccordancewithTjinBrometsassessment,arecentopinionpollshowsthatonly
27percentofblackAmsterdamfeelsZwartePietisadiscriminatorycharacter.
NinetytwopercentofDutchcitizensdontassociateZwartePietwithslaveryand91
percentopposeanyeffortwhatsoevertochangethewayhelooks.
TjinBrometfurtherdescribedthenationsattachmenttoPietasanintegralpartof
theholiday.Evenforme,hearingallthesongsandseeingthecandyandhot
chocolate,itbringsbackwarmfeelings.Thiscelebrationhasbeenmassagedinour
brainsasbeinggood.Ashardasitisforoutsiderstounderstandwhyblackfaceneeds
beapartoftheChristmasseason,itsharderfortheDutchtounderstandhow
SinterklaasavondcouldstillbeaholidaywithoutZwartePiet.Inpart,thisisbecause
SinterklaasandZwartePietremindtheDutchonthemostfundamentallevelofthe
ancientstrugglebetweengoodandevil,thegodoflightandthegodofdarkness.
SuspendingwhatwethinkweknowaboutZwartePietasachildoftheslavetradeand
Sinterklaasashismaster,asaintwouldbeinhumanwithouthispsychologicaland
physicalshadow.Tinkeringwiththatbalancebetweenlightanddarkistricky
business.In2006someTVnetworkexecutivesattemptedtoreplacetheblackPieten
withrainbowcoloredPieteninanationallybroadcastchildrensshow.Theresultwas
publicoutcry.
TjinBrometconcededthateventhoughonlyafractionofblackAmsterdamwas
fightingthefight,theZwartePietproblemwasgettinghot.Ireflectedonthefactthat
itwasactuallyonlyasmallpercentageofAfricanAmericanswhoparticipatedinthe
civilrightsstruggle.Avocalminoritycancausesweepingchange.Iwasluckytoknow
afewoftheintellectualsTjinBrometwasreferringtoasthefrontline.Idmetseveral
ofthemalongwithEyermanataconferenceonculturaltraumaasalegacyofthe

transatlanticslavetrade.IdbeeninvitedbacktoAmsterdam(asabyproductofmy
writingabouttheDutchslavecastle)incelebrationofthesesquicentennialofthe
abolitionoftheDutchslavetradein1863.
Oneofthoseintellectualswasafiftynineyearoldradiojournalistandactivistnamed
PerezJongLoy.Irememberhimwearingabaseballhatthatsaid1873,areminder
thattheenslavedwereforcedtoworkfortenyearsbeyondabolitiontopreventthe
collapseoftheDutchsugarindustry.Hedwornthehattotheconference,andalsoto
theannualEmancipationDayparadeonthedayafter,July1,whichmarkedthe
SurinameseholidayKetiKoti(Sranantongoforthechainsarecut).Itstruckme,asI
marchedintheparadeofblackDutchpeopleintheirbrightfestivalweartothe
slaverymemorialinOosterpark,thatitwasahealthyalternativetotheSinterklaas
parade,butalsothatitwasnotafestivalobservedbythelargerculture.Itwasnta
nationalholiday.Andasapopularexpressionofblackness,KetiKotididntholda
candletoZwartePiet.
AftercheckinginwithTjinBrometthisfall,IaskedJongLoytofillmeinonthe
ZwartePietfront.Specifically,Iwonderedwhathethoughtshouldbedonetochange
theageoldSinterklaasavondtraditiontomakeitlessoffensive.Alongwithtwenty
otherprotestorscoordinatedbyGario,hehadjustlodgedaformalcomplaintwiththe
Amsterdamcitycouncilseventlicensingcommitteeinhopesofbanningthe
SinterklaasparadeIdwitnessedthreeyearsbefore.Thesegrievanceswereaired
duringapublichearing,reportedontelevisionbyAT5Nieuws,andinotherpress,one
monthbeforethisyearsprocessionwasscheduledtotakeplaceinAmsterdam,as
usual,onNovember17withSinterklaasand500ZwartePieten.Inasleightofhand,
Garioarguedthattheparadeviolatedthecitysofficialregulations,whichstipulates
sucheventsmustcontributetoaninnovativeandcreativeimageofthecity.Henk
Leegte,whoorganizestheAmsterdamprocession,respondedtocomplaintsby
suggestingacompromise:theappearanceof100ofthe500Petesmightbealtered.
JongLoytoldme,Theresnocompromisepossible.Noway.Itsallornothing.
Then,asifZwartePietwerearealpersonandnotafictionalcharacter,hesaid,
ZwartePietneedstodie.Heelaborated:Theideachildrenaregettingisthatthey
havetobeafraidofblackmen.IfIgotoavillagelessthantenmilesawayfrom
Amsterdamandgotothesupermarketthere,littlechildrenattheheightofmyknees
lookatmewithterrorandunbelievablepanic,likeIamamonster.Theypointatme,
trembling,andsay,Mama,look,itsZwartePiet!Theparentsdontcorrectthem.
JongLoywentontotellmehedjustbeenjumpedoutsideofhisgymafterthe
hearingwasreportedinthenews.Anangrymobaccusedhimoftryingtospoiltheir
childrenshappiness.Itsnotjustaninnocentfestivalforchildren!hestressed.
Blackchildrenarebulliedwiththis.

Herecountedbeingsurroundedbybullieshimselfonhisfirstdayofschoolinthe
Netherlandsmorethanfiftyyearsagoattheageofseven,afterheemigratedfrom
Surinamebyboat.HisclassmatestauntedhimwiththenameZwartePietand
anotherracialslurwithnosensibletranslation:ShitChinese.Heremembered,I
spokebackwithmyhandsratherthanmymouth.Theteacherpunishedmeinsteadof
them.Sheputmeinthecorridorwithmyfaceagainstthewall.Thatwasjustthe
beginning.Theyalwaysoutnumberedme.Itwasntjustthechildren.OldDutchladies
rubbedmyfacewithspittoseeifthecolorwouldcomeoff.Ilearnedwithintwoweeks
afterIarrivedtostandwithmybackagainstthewall.
IwonderedifthisstoryhadbeenpartofJongLoysdepositionatthehearing.The
decisiontotakelegalrecoursemarksacrucialdevelopmentinthestruggletotopple
ZwartePiet.InHolland,racialdiscriminationisamajorcrime,heexplained.Its
agreedyoucangotoprisonforit.Butnevereverhastherebeenaraciallawsuitin
Hollandbecausetheyalwaysdenythediscrimination,claimingitsnotareality,buta
feeling.Feelingsarearbitrary,subjective,andtooslipperytohold.Lawsarenot.As
ofthiswriting,theparadeisstillscheduledtotakeplace,inspiteofthecampaigners
effortstohaveitstoppedthroughpolicy.ButJongLoytoldmetobeonthelookout
foranotherspectacle.Itwouldbegrand,hehinted,buthecouldnttellmemore
thanthatbecausehewassureourcommunicationwasbeingmonitored.
Themorningafterwespoke,itcameoutinthepressthattheDutchpracticeof
blackfaceincelebrationofSinterklaasavondwasunderinvestigationbytheUnited
NationsHighCommissionerforHumanRights.Thecommissionerhadreceiveda
lettertippingheroffthat,thecharacterandimageofBlackPeteperpetuatea
stereotypedimageofAfricanpeopleassecondclasscitizens,fosteringanunderlying
senseofinferiorityinDutchsociety.InresponsetothesuggestionthatZwartePiet
couldbeahumanrightsviolation,PrimeMinisterMarkRuttesaidthiswasamatter
forsocietytosettle,notgovernment.Bytheendoftheday,500,000peoplehad
likedaDutchFacebookpagecalledPietitie(Peteition)dedicatedtosavingZwarte
Piet.Withinaweek,thatfigureclimbedto2million.DontlettheNetherlandsbest
traditiondisappear,thepagebegged.

On October 26, 2013, several hundred people demonstrated at the Malieveld in The Hague to keep Zwarte Piet as part
of the traditional Dutch Sinterklaas celebration. The demonstration was an outgrowth of a Facebook page dedicated to
saving Zwarte Piet. (Bart Maat / Hollandse Hoogte / Redux)

Ifanything,thedesperatedefenseofZwartePiethasbolsteredthefeelingamong
thosewhoopposehimthatZwartePietmustcometoanend.Weneedtoteachthem
shame,theSurinameseDutchhistorianSandewHirareiteratedwithgreatpatience.
WearelikeLittleRockinthe1950s.Peoplewerenotashamedofracialapartheid
thenintheUS.SomethingchangedinthecivilizationofAmericatoupliftitself.That
iswhatweareexperiencinghere.
ItoldHirathatevenIcouldsmellit,fromacrosstheocean.ZwartePietwasonhis
lastlegs.Intodaysworld,wheretechnologyallowslittletobeconcealedfromview,
ZwartePietcouldnolongerstandupinthelightofday.Howlong,IaskedHira,did
hethinkitwouldtakeforZwartePiettofall?Hesaidhethoughtitcouldstillbesome
decades.Orpossiblyless.Inanycase,hewasoptimistic.
WhenIimagineZwartePietseventualandinevitabledemise,Icanthelpbutrecall
thatdeafgirlattheSinterklaasparadewithhermother.Istillrememberherbright,
lovelysmileintherain.Thatexpressionofjoyisprobablythebestargumentthe
Dutchmakeintheirlosingbattletoupholdtheircustom.Whatkindofpersonwould
robachildofChristmas?ButasHirapointedout,AchilddidntinventZwartePiet.
Adultshavetrainedthemtolikehimasheis.Thosechildrenyoungenoughtonever
haveknownhimwillnotmisshimatall.

ThreeyearshavepassedsinceIwaspregnantinAmsterdam.Imamothernow
myself,twiceover.Ilovemychildreneverybitasmuchasthatmotherattheparade.I
trytoimaginemysonanddaughterinAmsterdamonSinterklaasavond.Wouldthey
beabletofeelajoyasuncomplicatedasthatgirls?Orwouldthey,likeJongLoywhen
hewasachild,bepointedat,bullied,andjeered?
TheDutchwilllearntheirhistoryanditstiestoslavery,andIhopetheywilllearnit
soon.Whentheyconfrontthathiddencore,Dutchsocietymustalsorealizethatthere
isnotraditionsogoldenthatonechildsjoyshouldcomeatthecostof
anothersshame.
Childrendontchangesociety.Adultsdo,SandewHirasaidwhenwetalkedbefore
thisyearsparade.

Emily Raboteau (/people/emily-raboteau)

EmilyRaboteauistheauthorofSearchingforZion(AtlanticMonthly,2013),which
wontheNewYorkBookFestivalsGrandPrizeandwasnamedaBestBookof2013by
theHuffingtonPost.HeressayshavebeenpublishedintheGuardian,theBeliever,
andtheOxfordAmerican.SheisanassociateprofessorattheCityCollegeofNew
York,inHarlem.

ISSUE: Winter2014 Volume90 #1(/issues/90/1/winter2014)

PUBLISHED: January6,2014
TOPICS: Dutch(/tags/dutch),Netherlands(/tags/netherlands),Christmas(/tags/christmas),
SantaClaus(/tags/santaclaus),slavetrade(/tags/slavetrade),colonialism(/tags/colonialism),
racism(/tags/racism),AfricanAmericans(/tags/africanamericans)