Chilka Orissas azure treasure

After spending three weeks in Orissa, I went for a week long trip to Chilka Lake.
Chilka is situated approximately 140 km. away from Bhubaneshwar, on the BhubaneshwarBehrampur route. This journey could take three to four hours. We started from Bhubaneshwar at
7 a.m. and reached Balugaon at 10:30 a.m. We drove at a leisurely pace and stopped at many
places enroute to click digital pictures of natures wonders. We checked into Forest guest house
at Balugaon, which would be my home for the next seven days. It is a simple room with
comfortable beds, an attached bathroom. I carried lots of notebooks, pens, meditation tapes,
ZeNLP music for relaxation, a walkman, digital camera, torch, assorted dry fruits, a box of
candles, several boxes of safety matches, cotton earplugs and several sets of AA and AAA
batteries, in my rug-sack.
My objective at Chilka was to start writing the manuscript of my third book titled ZeNLP-the
power to excel, which is due for publication. I also wanted to re-examine my physical, mental and
spiritual goals and write down my short and long term goals and design an action plan to
implement after getting back to civil society.
Debu, my local contact at Chilka, extolled the medicinal properties of the herbs on the banks of
Chilka Lake. The cold water bath at Chilka Lake at dusk, used to put me to peaceful sleep with
vivid dreams.

I continued my ZeNLP guided meditations throughout my stay. My mornings started with music
for relaxation, a healthy breakfast of boiled garden fresh vegetables and fresh walnuts. Lunch
consisted of potatoes roasted over a bonfire outside my guest-house. I always fast after sunset,
and this helped me in Chilka, as power-cuts are common. There are several short speed-boat
rides around Chilka, which can be taken. It is advisable to let a local guide accompany you to the
far-flung islands. After reaching Balugaon, I ventured into the outer fringes of Chilka Lake on a
traditional canoe. Chilka supports an extraordinarily rich and diverse eco-system. Hundreds of
species of water birds including several threatened and endangered species, over 200 species of
fish crocodiles, turtles, otters and macaques inhabit the mangrove forests that surround this giant
lake. One locates a quiet place alongside an island among the azure blue waters, getting a better
view of the water, the sky and the treetops. One's patience is rewarded as a group of black
headed ibis swoop down from the skies and take a moments respite on the tree tops before flying
off. However the split second stop is enough to enable one to see the pelican's shiny beak and
plumage.

At sunrise, flocks of seagulls can be seen flying everywhere and the more adventurous one's
even land close to one's boat. One can also spot a group of gulls flying in a V formation, their
whiteness accentuated by the cloudless light blue skies in the background. As one's boat moves
deeper into the lake, the number and variety of birds sighted continues to increase. A few large
water-birds who have migrated for the winter from China can be sighted too! Some of the other
species of birds that can be sighted during the boat cruise along Chilka include bronze winged
jacana, purple heron, brahminy kite, grand coucal, green billed malpuha, great egret, oriental
magpie robin, purple heron, Chinese pond heron, roufus woodpecker, blue billed pelican,
whiskered tern and the great egret. As the Chilka Bird Sanctuary is located in the core area of the
Chilka Lake and is easily accessible by boat from Balugaon, a three day stay at the floating
bamboo houses of the local villagers is an ideal way to unwind, distress and relax to the tune of
nature. The Chilka Biosphere Reserve has been called the single most important breeding
ground for globally threatened large water-birds!

The best way to explore the wonders of Chilka Lake is to take a guided boat tour of the sanctuary
after reading information on the area's fauna and flora from the forest guides. But the ideal way to
observe the wildlife at close quarters is to cruise along the waters in a canoe at dawn or dusk.
The most important virtue while bird-watching is patience. One has to patiently wait and watch for
the birds to make their appearance. One also needs good reflexes to capture the images of these
winged one's before they vanish as abruptly as they appear.
One starts ones speed boat cruise before the break of dawn and makes one's way quietly into
the mangrove swamps that surround the sanctuary and waits for the sun to make its appearance
for catching a clear glimpse of these winged wonders. As the darkness fades into oblivion, the
chirping of the sparrows render the air and outlines of a small flocks of gulls can be seen faintly.
One concentrates more on the sounds of the birds at this twilight hour instead of trying to spot
them. After an hour's wait which seems like eternity, one can see the core area of Chilka Bird
Sanctuary come into view. A few pelicans, gulls and the larger birds can be seen flying parallel to
the surface of the water either singly or in pairs. But they are difficult to sight clearly as they take
off at land at great speeds like stealth bombers. However, these fuzzy birds offer a ray of hope to
the amateur bird watcher. Soon there is a rustle among the waters and one can see thousands of
pink necked flamingoes stretching from horizon to horizon. These migratory birds, fly to Chilka
each winter, to breed their young. These flamingoes reach Chilka from Siberia, Northern China
and Russia.
The speed boat ride over the azure blue waters of Chilka Lake is one of the closest experiences
one can have with nature. It seems like an unending ride with the boat cruising over the
translucent waters of this giant ocean. Water stretches from one end of the horizon to another as
ones boat flies over the waters at an incredible speed. One can see several green hills appear
and disappear from view., as one takes a short break at Kalijai Temple located on an island on
Chilka Lake. This ancient Kali temple is visited by the devout from villages all over Orissa. As one
speeds into the core area of Chilka Lake, one can see several eagles circling around. They are
clearly visible as the pale blue skies provide a perfect background to these dark brown birds.

How to get there:

Indian Airlines operates daily flights to Bhubaneshwar from New Delhi, Chennai, Kolkata and
Mumbai. The to and fro drive from Bhubaneshwar to Balugaon costs approximately Rs.2500/- by
jeep.
Shared taxis are available on the return trip to Bhubaneshwar (Rs. 100/- per seat). Speed boats
are available at Balugaon to take you to the interiors of this vast lake.
Permits:
Forest Permits are needed to enter the core area of Chilka Bird Sanctuary. These have to be
obtained from the Principal Chief Conservator of Forests (Wildlife) at Bhubaneshwar, a week prior
to your intended visit to Chilka.
Where to stay:
The Forest Guest House at Balugaon, is a comfortable place to stay. It offers minimum but clean
and comfortable rooms to stay.
Where to eat:
There are very few pure vegetarian joints at Balugaon. At Bhubaneshwar, The Bihari Dhaba
opposite New Bus Stand offers good Dalma with Rice. Pure vegetarians are advised to carry their
own foodstuffs to Balugaon, unless they can subsist on almonds, apricots, walnuts, apples,
carrots and potatoes. The caretaker of the guest house can whip up simple meals if the
ingredients can be purchased and given to them. Fresh cabbage, cauliflower, gherkins and
capsicums are available from the farms around Balugaon.

How to plan your visit to Chilka:

Fly into Bhubaneshwar, Allow two days for local sight seeing. Drink lots of fluids. Sleep for at least
10 hours per day. Visit the local markets on the third day. Apply for the forest permits on this day.
Visit Puri (70 km.) On a day long excursion
Spend the Sunday shopping or eating out at Bhubaneshwar on seventh day.

Other precautions:
Carry extra sets of AAA batteries for digital cameras. There are frequent power cuts at Balugaon
Extra candles, matchboxes and torches come handy. There are few shops after crossing
Balugaon.

Birds sighted inside the core area of Chilka Lake

About the author:

Murli Menon, is a travel writer, stress management consultant and author based at Ahmedabad,
India. He is the author of "ZeNLP-the power to succeed" published by Sage publications and
ZeNLP-the power to relax by New Dawn Press. He can be reached at ceo@tips4ceos.com
_____________________________________________________________________________
Courier payments/published magazine author copies to:
Murli Menon
E/503, Borsali Apt;
Khanpur
Ahmedabad-380001
Phone:079-25600269
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High resolution digital photographs attached with caption.

At Kalijai Temple inside Chilka Lake

boat

sailing

A view of the horizon from the speed-boat

away

on

Chilka

Lake